HPI RTR Savage 25 [Archive] - Page 3

doesgo

09-06-2004, 09:21 PM

triple x,
Yeah, just get new wheels. There is a trick to fix them (JB Weld the hex into the wheel) but that usually doesn't last that long.

TheGasMan,
The Savage's transmission is one of its many strong points! Very, very durable and low maintenance. Or in my case, no maintenance! I've had my Savage for over 19 months and have never even had the transmission out of it for any reason.

The reverse module is optional and is also very durable. I don't have it personally, but my friend ran it for over a year without any problems. He removed it for racing, however.

turbo s15

09-07-2004, 11:16 AM

narfer007

09-08-2004, 10:53 AM

I've got the RTR now for about a month and I realy love the truck

about the speed I don't know but the box say's 40mph (that's about 60Km/h (In Holland we use Km/h ;)))
but remember the Savage is not build for speed ;)

turbo s15

09-08-2004, 03:59 PM

cool thanks i think ive made may decision but what are ur guys thoughts on the tamiya tnx. Do u think its just as good as the savage 25. I already have a tamiya on road car and a truck to add to the tamiya collection would be cool but if u have any info on it, please share.

savagepicco26

09-09-2004, 06:05 PM

the only mods i have on mine are softer springs (purple) rpm offset rims (purple also) the 50's chevy pickup body and i made working head lights

Lee
if they are the HPI springs, then they are the exact same as the stock black ones. The hardness is the same, HPI just offered these in a different color.

savagepicco26

09-09-2004, 06:09 PM

Well break-in is finished and it is awesome. This truck will go anywhere. Big difference from my 1/10 ST. Running with the HSN at 3 turns I got 250 temps and plenty of power. Not quite wheelie power but I have some room to lean more. The only thing I had to adjust on it was the brakes and throttle servo horn. Everytime I hit the brakes and release it would open the throttle a little. Had to trim some mold flash off the servo horns and pit a little shock oil on it. Prob gonna do the spider gear mod and get a stronger steering servo next. Time to hunt some T-Maxxes now LOL
if you get wheelies, great, but don't tune for them. HPI spent a lot of time and money on designing the truck to keep the wheels on the ground. 250 is good for the stock S-25. for the brakes and throttle, I highly recommend doing the Ofna linkage mod. It's night and day difference in performance, plus, adjustments are a lot easier. what were you trimming off the servo horns? :confused:

savagepicco26

09-09-2004, 06:11 PM

Hey guys - I dont have a Savage 25 yet..... (just got a Rush Evo)..... but how good is the 2 speed box with the reverse (standard or optional) - the Rush Evos single speed - but faster - does the Savage therefore need more maintenance??
i ran a .26 motor in my savage and never had to do any maintenance on the gear box. it's pretty much maint. free! why'd you waste money on a small block Revo? :confused:

savagepicco26

09-09-2004, 06:13 PM

I strip the hex that is molded into the wheel. I would like to know it there is a fix for that or I just have to buy new rims?
i agree, just buy new rims. if you really want to fix the problem, do the 17mm hex mod and run 1/8th scale rims. I have no idea why HPI built an 1/8th scale truck and put 1/10th scale wheels on it. that always annoyed me! :mad:

savagepicco26

09-09-2004, 06:18 PM

hey guys im new to this forum (monster trucks only) and ive been really lookin at this savage 25. Ive done alot of research and from what ive heard its a pretty bad ass truck. Ive had expirence with nitro b4 so im not a full newbie to it. I just wanted to ask if the truck real durable? Will i encounter any problem? Does it break often. I have 450 to spend and i wanted to know how u guys felt about the t-maxx which might have been another option. It seems pretty rough and fast. Ive drove one b4 and there pretty good. But i got my eyes on this savage. Any opinions on where i should look for would be helpful.

p.s how fast is the savage 25 rtr out of the box.

thanks
T-maxx = small block
Savage = BIG BLOCK
nuff said!

if not, then you can compare tuning engines. I've been tuning nitro for many years and I'd have to say that the 2.5TRX motor in the Traxxas cars and trucks is one of the most finicky motors I've ever encountered. There's only an extremely small point where the motor has any power and it pretty much takes a professional to find that spot in tuning it. if temps outside change, the truck is a dog again. i've tuned .12's, .15's, .18's, .21's, .25's, and .26's nothing was a bigger PITA than the new traxxas .15 out of the box, the savage is a much stronger truck than the Tmaxx....there's just no comparison. i know 2 people that own both trucks and they're both trying to sell their tmaxx because the savage is more fun to drive, less maintenance, and more durable. i'll never buy a tmaxx.

p.s how fast is the savage 25 rtr out of the box.

thanks
fast enough to run down any punk kid in the neighborhood and his friends and then go take care of that annoying dog up the street that always chases you :D

67f100StPro

09-25-2004, 11:59 PM

I_Like_F150s

09-26-2004, 07:42 AM

You can also use Kyosho or Ofna spider (the four small ones on the cross pins) gears for the diff mod. It's also a good idea to replace the four phillips head screws that hold the ring gear on the diff case with some 3mm x 15mm flat head machine screws. Use a drop of CA under the head for good measure. Fill the diffs with silicone diff oils. Try 3000w in the front and 1000w in the rear. And as always, shim the diff for proper mesh.

savagepicco26

09-26-2004, 08:38 AM

Just wonderin if anyone has had diff problems? I have read a lot about the diffs and they seem to be the weak point. I am planning to do the 4 gear mod but I have found out HPI has some gear quality issues so I may wait a while. What mods would you recommend for bashing? I have the HPI high performance air filter and the dual disk brake kit. Other than that my savage25 rtr is all stock. Also does anyone cut holes in the windshield? My temps are kinda high even though it is rich as Bill Gates.
definitely do the diff mod, esspecially if you have that dual brake kit. I personally never ran it. if you keep the stock brake adjusted right, it works fine. doing the throttle/brake linkage mod helps a lot too. those dual disk brakes are extremely hard on the diffs. you're driving along fast and need to stop quick so you slam on the brakes. those dual disks are so strong that they lock up the axles. problem is that those huge wheels still have a ton of inertia left in them that want to keep rotating. so eventually, you'll wind up breaking dogbones, differentials or drive cups. everyone that i know that had the dual brake, wound up going back stock after breaking numerous components. i always cut air holes in the windshield. just make sure there's no sharp corners. they will be weak points to start tearing if you wreck. if you have sharp corners anywhere on your body, round them out with a drill. this will help prevent your body from tearing. also, i'd recommend using the HPI gears for the Savage. DO NOT use gears meant for buggies. they are not hardened the same way that the savage gears are. they'll work okay for awhile, but eventually will give up long before the HPI gears will. i ran the HPI gears with a Picco .26 and never had any diff problems after I upgraded.

67f100StPro

09-26-2004, 12:23 PM

Thanks for the advice. I switched the brakes b/c the stock brakes would not stop the truck at all. It took prob 60 feet to stop from full speed and this was with them adjusted almost to the point of dragging. I have the dual brakes loose enough not to lock the wheels but it stops in prob 25-30 feet. Gonna definitely do the diff mod. Also, have you installed the reverse module? I was debating on it b/c it is a PITA to go rescue the truck when I can just switch it to reverse.
Dean

Jackyl

09-26-2004, 07:23 PM

I'm thinking about putting a Phantom .27 in my savage. I have the 4 gear diff mod done. and the trans is all aftermarket. But the problem is I race with a guy and his savage has a picco .26 in it and he's always bustin' up diff gear's. he even has the aluminum diff cup as his plastic ones just grenaded. He does has the dual disk brakes on his truck.

Currently I have a Hyper Turbo .21 in my savage with 16/49 gearing it's great but I want to wheelie and with a .27 and 17 or 18 / 49 I'll be able to wheeilie and still have mad speed :D

Also cvd's are junk Do Not Waste Your Money on cvd's for anything on this truck, use the dogbones and if something happens to the stock ones upgrade to the HD dogbones.

67f100StPro

09-27-2004, 03:20 PM

I finally got the brakes sorted out. I put a spring out of a retractable pen on the linkage to make the brakes progressive. The servo moves against the spring and the spring pulls on the brakes. Before it had some fuel tubing on there so the brakes were either on or off. With the dual disks I had to keep them way loose they would lock up. Also cut a big hole in the windshield and the temps are down about 20 degrees.

wrecked

10-02-2004, 06:48 PM

im going to buy a savage as soon as i have enough money, and i was just wonderin waht hop ups i should buy for it and things that break often.

viperracing

10-05-2004, 11:56 AM

upgrades you should get for best performance/durability:

fuel tank guard
fuel filter
bigger air filter, stock filter is just suffocating the engine
aluminum center skid plate
if you bought the ss get a hpi 3 pin flywheel and clutch shoes. a 3 shoe clutch is better than a 2 shoe.
for better braking get the envy dual disc brake kit. much better than hpi or hotbodies brakes and you dont glue pads onto the calipers. here's link:http://store.savagess.com/product_info.php?products_id=357
http://store.savagess.com/product_info.php?products_id=356

one is $25, other is $23, both are great though

any other upgrades like proline 40 series tires/wheels, rollcage, bigger engine are nice, but those the list I made should be some of the first upgrades that people do.

hpi is going to release a 3 speed transmission with no modifications needed. im guessing it'll be anywhere from $50 to $100 since the stock tranny is $50. thats a good upgrade for any engine. more acceleration/top speed. i was going to get a better engine until I heard about the new tranny.

you can also buy golden horizons/robinson racing steel spur gears. they'll never strip like the stock plastic ones do.

i have yet to have any problems with my diffs or tranny. i did snap off 3 teeth on my rear bevel gear, its the gear that connects to the rear diff. the other end attaches to the rear shaft.

i have also had a problem with the brake hub. its the piece the disk brake sits on. the brake stripped the hub so there was no more braking until I bought a steel brake hub. you'll never wear another hub out or strip one again. look for a steel/titanium hub. aluminum ones Im guessing would eventually strip since the weight of the truck is greater than any other stadium truck/car with aluminum hubs.

if you want the best clutch for this truck look at this one: it will last much longer and performs better. i plan on getting this soon also. sorry I cant find the link, but it is a gpm clutch and has carbon clutch shoes.

67f100StPro

10-06-2004, 10:23 AM

Went bashing yesterday at a construction site. I was getting about 5 feet of air running up a 11 foot bank that levels off to a higher elevation. Had a bunch of ugly landings where the truck would flip end over end or land on its top. Temps were steady at 240 with plenty of power. Also drove through ruts and over rocks and didn't break a thing. Brakes work flawlessly and the suspension soaked up every bump and rut I could throw at it. This truck RULES!!!

Nexus

10-06-2004, 02:34 PM

Just thought some people here might be interested....

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179958

http://home.comcast.net/~anthony.isla/hpi_pro4/hpi_racer_shirt.jpg

wrecked

10-09-2004, 10:09 PM

I just got my savage yesterday its the savage 25 rtr. i broke it in and its lots of fun to drive. i landeda backflip with it and also jumped a 5 foot fence around my yard. any way, i was lookin the truck over and i noticed when i went to tighten the wheels they got loser on one side abd they got tighter on the other side whin i tightened the wheel nut clockwise. i found that very strange. is there a pourpose for this or did hpi screw up on my kit???

thanks
jason

fuzzy2133

10-09-2004, 10:55 PM

no it is normal, left hand threads on one side, and right hand threads on the other side. just remember to tighten them turn the wrench tward the front of the truck and they will tighten.

*the theroy is as the truck moves the wheel nuts tighten up on their own. just one problem with this, the nuts have too little mass for it to work.

wrecked

10-10-2004, 05:40 PM

I was driving my savage today and i noticed when i took off the rear wheels were spinin and the front werent doin much. so i took apart the diff and found that on one of the spider gears 14 teeth broke off. this is a stupid question but wat exactly is the 4 gear diff mod. theirs already 4 spider gears inside the diff so im confused :confused: and wat are the part#s for the diff mod???

Thanks
jason

fuzzy2133

10-10-2004, 08:05 PM

if there are 4 spider gears and 2 cross pins then you do not need the 4 gear diff mod. the older trucks were only comming with 2 spider gears so alot of us were installing another of set of gears and changing to a different style of cross pin so there would be 4 spider gears to handle the abuse we put out.

the diff with the broke tooth in it should have still been doing something, double check for other broken parts before you get new parts and put it back to gether.

wrecked

10-11-2004, 11:43 AM

do u think monster gt diffs would fit???

wrecked

10-11-2004, 11:51 AM

can someon post a pic of the 4 gear diff mod... Thanks!!!

Jackyl

10-11-2004, 01:13 PM

The monster gt diffs will not work the ring gear is too small if you swap out the ring gear it might work but that is a big might and the outdrives are to long also. the savage diffs with a 4 spyder mod work great just shim them and make sure they are proper if your pushing alot of power to them.

fuzzy2133

10-12-2004, 12:07 AM

1 - 4 spider diff. mod pic.

wrecked

10-13-2004, 09:59 PM

[the savage diffs with a 4 spyder mod work great just shim them and make sure they are proper if your pushing alot of power to them.[/QUOTE]

how do you know if theyr shimmed correctly and where would you buy shims???? i never saw them for sale before. for the cross rods---(dont know the name) :p inside the diff case,do you just dremel a slot in the stock ones or do u buy some that already have them cut out? and waht is the part #s for everything tht you would need to do the diff mod???

Thnks sooooo much for the help :D :D :) :) :)

Jackyl

10-14-2004, 09:19 AM

When you shim the diff just go to your local hobby shop and ask for a ofna shim pack. If they don't know what your talking about find a new hobby shop! Then shim on the inside of the bearing on the ring side to get the correct mesh between the ring and the pinion in the diff housing. also shim the pinion in or out if need be.

It's easier to just buy the parts you need but if you have the time you can use a dremel to take off the material that is needed but you would have to be exact so I would say just buy the parts. Sorry that I don't have any part
#'s though. but www.towerhobbies.com does :)

dfarrales

10-14-2004, 11:25 AM

delete

mebn1973

10-20-2004, 03:10 AM

Just bought a S 25 in the UK and am having trouble finding fuel for it. Anyone able to give advise: I can get 16% or 25% nitro only. Is 25% ok for the engine? Many thanks.

67f100StPro

10-21-2004, 03:22 PM

Either one will be fine. You will get a little more power with 25% but if the price is a lot different I would go with the 16%.

fuzzy2133

10-21-2004, 09:08 PM

use a hot glow plug and both fuel should be fine.

Logan100

10-22-2004, 02:32 AM

Youll just want to watch your engine temp with 25%

Logan100

10-22-2004, 02:47 AM

Mandatory upgrade... Rock Concepts chassis plates. Lowers the engine and tranny half inch lowering c/g and tilts the fuel tank forward to avoid engine leaning out as it runs out of gas. Im ordering one right away. rockconcepts.net

mebn1973

10-22-2004, 05:19 AM

thanks guys!!

racereadynewbie

10-24-2004, 04:26 PM

well i got 1 from the ihobby expo in chicago. im still in the break in phase. but i cant get the truck to idle w/o the wheels spinning while the wheels are off the ground. but im not sure if thats a big prob. the wheels dont move while they r on the ground tho. ie adjusted the carb and the throttle trim, but the wheels still spin when they r off the ground. any ideas why. help a brotha out please. thanx

fuzzy2133

10-24-2004, 06:05 PM

the wheels will spin very easy when there is no load on them, like when they are off the ground. the why is a crank shaft spining at 6,000 RPM will make the clutch bell move when there is no load on it even with the clutch disengaged.

Logan100

10-25-2004, 02:57 AM

Today the backplate on my motor stopped turning, I dont know why this happened.
When I try to start it the roto start cant even turn the engine over once. I think that I've seized the gears on the backplate but not sure.. Has anyone seen/had this problem and is it my backplate or my motor itself. Start rebuild tommorow.
thx L8R

dfarrales

10-26-2004, 09:38 PM

finally got a chance to fire up the picco .26 savage i bought (used). having an issue w/ idle... it's way too high. no matter how much i richen it up, it still stays at high revs. i checked the linkage and the throttle is closed all the way.

any ideas?

thanks,
Deo

doesgo

10-26-2004, 09:45 PM

Close down the idle screw a little bit. It's a throttle stop, it only allows the throttle to close to a certain point, which in your case isn't far enough.

fuzzy2133

10-26-2004, 10:16 PM

if the idle screw is all the way out and it is still in high rev's there is a possible air leak.

badboy2

10-28-2004, 03:31 PM

anyone who have LST shox on their savage ?how did u install the rear shocks..im havin troubles putting them in

Nexus

10-29-2004, 10:28 AM

I posted earlier and some people wanted to see the actual shirt before they placed an order so here's the pic.

http://home.comcast.net/~anthony.isla/hpi_pro4/hpi_racer_shirt_2.jpg

A bunch of the HPI guys have bought them and I'll do a second run if enough people are interetested....email me if you are at anthony.isla@comcast.net

Jackyl

10-29-2004, 02:27 PM

Post some pictures of the LST shocks on the savage, I have to see how this is done!!! Or post a link to somewhere that has pics of this done.

Needler56

10-31-2004, 10:34 PM

anyone gonna pick up the three speed tranny? i think that might be the next thing i do to my savage, i haven't ran it in a while, i actually use it as a door stop lol

4DMNYC

11-01-2004, 10:52 AM

Post some pictures of the LST shocks on the savage, I have to see how this is done!!! Or post a link to somewhere that has pics of this done.

Anybody..anybody... :D come on, I'm dying to see this :eek:

fuzzy2133

11-02-2004, 10:49 PM

have you searched some of the rc media sites yet?

ha found it!

http://www.******.net/img/41695

* = r c p i c s . n e t

badboy2

11-04-2004, 03:36 AM

http://http://img5.exs.cx/img5/857/DSC01136.jpg here is it

badboy2

11-04-2004, 03:48 AM

ooops didnt work here hope it works

badboy2

11-04-2004, 03:49 AM

one more maybe ill try to run it tomorrow or on the weekend

badboy2

11-04-2004, 03:50 AM

now i dont want the lst anymore since i only wanted those shox now i have it on my savage its like a durable LST hehehe

wrecked

11-07-2004, 08:18 AM

does any know how to make thoes stupid savage diffs bullet proof?? I even did the diff mod and im still blowing diffs front and rear :mad: :mad: :mad: . my friend is running a picco 26 with the slipper tightnd down and he hasent touched his diffs once. Any help would be greatly appreciated :D :D .
Thanks,
Jason

slaf

11-08-2004, 10:48 PM

Buy an alloy diff cup + 4 spiders gear....

Logan100

11-09-2004, 01:17 AM

what diff upgrade are you using? who makes the gears and cross pins?
you might need shims and or stock gears and 4 spiders.

bob333

11-13-2004, 11:02 PM

i cant remember the company's name but someone makes a 1/8 scale buggy dif for the tmaxx which might slip right in

fuzzy2133

11-14-2004, 12:56 PM

i cant remember the company's name but someone makes a 1/8 scale buggy dif for the tmaxx which might slip right in

Unlimited Engineering, it is called the 7.5 diif kit. buying just the gears will get you the diff cup, spider gears and ring & pinion gears. I think it is ment for UE's diff case but I could be wrong. contact them and see what they have to say.

Unlimited Engineering (http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/scan/co=yes/fi=products/sf=prod_group/se=UE/sf=spare/se=0/op=eq/sf=category/se=Differential/op=eq/tf=sku.html?id=BiMBMrfc&open=2)

bob333

11-21-2004, 09:30 PM

HI guys im back :D . Im not sure whether to get a revo or a savage :confused: . What do you guys think :confused: ? Iwant the big block power of the savage but have the good handling of a Revo. and I mostly bash or drive at the local bmx track or forested areas. Any help would be appreciated. :D :)

fuzzy2133

11-21-2004, 10:02 PM

Savage or MGT or something with independent suspension, lots of ground clearence (the first two) and a big block . There is also the Giga Crusher and you could get it with one .26 engine or two .26's stock! did I mention it has a three speed tranny? :eek: Good Luck :)

bob333

11-22-2004, 01:22 PM

Did i forget to mention this is my first nitro rc.(Many years experience with electric though) Do you think a monster gt or a giga crusher would be a little to much for little ol me. Isnt the giga crusher made by ofna?

doesgo

11-22-2004, 01:33 PM

The Giga Crusher is made by Kyosho.

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/ihobbyexpo/twinforce.jpg

Definitely do NOT get a twin-engine vehicle as your first nitro RC! Many others would be good choices, however, such as the Savage, Revo, LST, Monster GT, Mammoth, etc.

fuzzy2133

11-22-2004, 08:46 PM

yea that does change things. what doesgo said are great vehicles, I would just like to add 2 more: XTM X-Factor and Kyosho Mad Force, both are solid axel trucks, they will not handle as good as the others but are just as strong. don't be afraid of asking questions in the vehicle specific topics on these forums.

badboy2

11-23-2004, 03:50 AM

bob333 i think ur gonna like the mgt

Aaron 285

11-23-2004, 04:56 AM

I am also looking to by a new nitro car but this would be my second. I was wondering is the savage .25 a good choice

slaf

11-23-2004, 08:52 AM

Does someone can give me the exact weight of a Savage 25 RTR ? I read at different places and it's never the same !

Thanks !

jmcn r

11-23-2004, 03:41 PM

hey i have a quick question for some of the other Savage guys here while i have working internet (stupid wireless :mad: ).
anyway, I have the Robinson Racing clutchbell/spur gear combo on my SS. I am wondering just how close these two are supposed to actually come to each other. i dont mean the mesh, the thing is that there is a very uncomfortable amount of space between the spur gear and the actual "bell" of the clutch bell. i swear that it actually touches and makes a "pining" noise sometimes.

could anybody tell me just how close these are to be together? i am quite worried now that i am getting ready to put my savage through a thrashing. a picture would be awesome if thats possible.

thanks in advance :)

geo8498

11-24-2004, 08:14 PM

indeed, my gear and clutchbell are extremely close together. not quite touching though.

bob333

11-29-2004, 10:15 PM

Sorry but I think Im getting the revo

savagepicco26

11-30-2004, 08:00 AM

i dont mean the mesh, the thing is that there is a very uncomfortable amount of space between the spur gear and the actual "bell" of the clutch bell. i swear that it actually touches and makes a "pining" noise sometimes.
as long as they're not binding, then they're fine. mine was like that when i ran them on my picco 26 and i never had a problem. i raced mine too and had 3 gallons through it with the gears pinging before i sold the truck. if they spin freely, go for it.

Aaron 285

12-01-2004, 01:21 AM

Would the savage .25 run on 15% nitro if not what fuel should i use

savagepicco26

12-01-2004, 07:57 AM

Would the savage .25 run on 15% nitro if not what fuel should i use
i NEVER run anything other than 30% in any motor .21 or bigger. the big block motors run so much smoother on 30%. i race 1/8th scale buggies now competitively and you won't find anyone running a big block on anything other than 30% and that's for buggies and monster trucks. you want to run a cold glow plug with the 30% though. either O'Donnell 99, OS R5, McCoy MC9.

hammadown

12-01-2004, 01:22 PM

Why Arent My Posts Posting????

savagepicco26

12-01-2004, 01:26 PM

Why Arent My Posts Posting????
if they weren't, you wouldn't have posted this. :D

hammadown

12-01-2004, 01:32 PM

IM TRYING TO POST A LINK TO MY SAVAGE 25 ON EBAY BUT ITS NOT TAKING

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44029&item=5939530138&rd=1

HAMMADOWN

67f100StPro

12-01-2004, 01:40 PM

I followed the RCCA article to the letter and all I can say is WOW!! Major improvement over stock. Now I get wheelies on pavement easily and it will carry the front wheels 20 feet. Can't wait to take it off road! I set the exhaust port to 165 degrees and didn't have to modify the block. Took about an hour to do all the cutting. Awesome article.

savagepicco26

12-01-2004, 01:42 PM

IM TRYING TO POST A LINK TO MY SAVAGE 25 ON EBAY BUT ITS NOT TAKING
HAMMADOWNyou're not supposed to post ebay links here. it's against the rules. there's a forum for auction posting. http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/forumdisplay.php?f=332

savagepicco26

12-01-2004, 01:43 PM

67f100StPro

12-02-2004, 10:24 AM

here you go:
http://www.rccaraction.com/articles/htpporting_4.asp
It only applies to the S-25 as far as the measurements go. Worked wonders on my motor. I have to upgrade the clutch now as it has started slipping.

Jackyl

12-02-2004, 12:48 PM

Does anyone know of places that have any information on using the savage suspension on a hybrid?

Fantom_4-tec

12-02-2004, 01:33 PM

The Fantom FR 27 is a beast in the savage. TRY IT!

bob333

12-02-2004, 08:57 PM

What about the wasp .26? Do those work good?

doesgo

12-02-2004, 09:34 PM

Yes, the Wasp/OFNA/Werks/Picco .26s are very strong engines and really rev! A little more finicky to tune than the Machs and XTMs, but you get a lot of power and rpm for your money.

badboy2

12-03-2004, 02:56 AM

i have badluck with my wasp26..so many freakin leaks ..monster flip have picco and wasp and hes so lucky with them never had a problem

jmcn r

12-04-2004, 02:11 AM

as long as they're not binding, then they're fine. mine was like that when i ran them on my picco 26 and i never had a problem. i raced mine too and had 3 gallons through it with the gears pinging before i sold the truck. if they spin freely, go for it.

cool, thanks alot geo8498 and savagepicco :)

i also tried (and put down after awhile) installing the ofna throttle/brake linkage. till now, the 3 good sets of pics i have found on the net all show differences in the set up. does anbody have GOOD pics of their own? if i rmbr right you had the same mod done to your sav Savagepicco. I am really needing help on this one.
ill probably take a pic of it too and maybe you can point out if im doing smth nwrong. but basically when the sevo returns to the idle position, it opens up the carb about 3/4 way. whats going on? my only geuss is that i did not bend the throttle linkage correctly and it is settling ata bad angle and keeping the carb open.

any ideas?
as a quick description i am using the ofna silver rod for throttle and running it through the Plastic piece Ofna supplies, and the stock black rod for the brake.
arg..help....the last obstacle i cant clear with the Savage. (friend got one and we set it up identically, so hands are full) :o

savagepicco26

12-04-2004, 08:05 AM

yeah, take some pics. i don't have mine anymore or i'd take pics for you. the rod should be just barely bent to go around the roll bar. to much bending will make the bar too short. you may also have to remove, reposition, and reinstall the servo arm to give you the travel you need for the throttle. then once you get that adjusted, then work on the brake settings.

jmcn r

12-06-2004, 10:10 PM

ok ill go and take some pics. the rod is just long enough, so thats ok.

i just cant figure out why when the throttle position returns to idle it opens up the carb :confused: :confused: i hope i can figure it out soon, because if i dont do so this week it will sit there till January as i will be going home= for the holidays.

savagepicco26

12-06-2004, 10:50 PM

so does it close all the way and then come back open?

jmcn r

12-06-2004, 11:10 PM

exactly. might i need to straighten out that ben a bit more to give it the few extra mm?

i can in fact see the rod actually turns in the rod end, i want to ca it down like i have seen other people say. but i dont want to rush to it in case i need to make changes.

lou diamonds

12-07-2004, 08:34 AM

i need some help guys. i recently dropped a wasp .28 in my savage. during break-in i shreded the composite spur gear. i expected that so i ran out and plunked down 40 bucks and got a hardend steel gear from robinsons racing and after about 5 tanks the spur and clutch bell was toast. im no expert but im sure my gear mesh was good. so, is it me, or the power output of the engine? :confused:

badboy2

12-07-2004, 01:21 PM

jmcn r

12-07-2004, 02:51 PM

this is why im so worried about my RRP hadened CB and spur too. i tuned with them on and nothing was wrong. but the feel is just so damn strange, so tight. will have to wait till january to find out if my worries are founded....or are just me being a pansy :o ;)

lou diamonds

12-08-2004, 08:36 AM

lou i think if u meshed it right that wouldnt happen...im curious if u really had it meshed right ..ive seen some other high end engines with the stock spur on the truck and it wont melt...
to get the proper meshing make sure the cb and spur have a slight play when u move them ..
as far as im concerned the mesh is correct. right now im waiting on a dual brake to come in so the truck is broken down. hopefully it runs fine.

sav-e o-so

12-08-2004, 10:59 PM

what do you guys think?

mattmall

12-14-2004, 12:51 PM

HOw do these two compare, is the Monster gt underpowered with a 21? Which is faster.

fuzzy2133

12-14-2004, 07:39 PM

HOw do these two compare, is the Monster gt underpowered with a 21? Which is faster.

the MGT accelerates really well with the stock .21. under powered, no not really, a good strong .21 will allow a few more gear options if you wanna go faster. you really can not go wrong with either truck.

sav-e o-so

12-17-2004, 08:37 PM

i got qa sh 28 motor and i want to know if it's normal to have stripped spur gears. it happended twice. what can it be?

doesgo

12-17-2004, 09:48 PM

Improper gear mesh with the clutch bell.

savagepicco26

12-18-2004, 08:55 AM

i got qa sh 28 motor and i want to know if it's normal to have stripped spur gears. it happended twice. what can it be?
if you go any bigger than the stock .25, you'll need to put a steel spur gear and clutch bell combo. when i had the picco .26 on there, it didn't matter what i did, the nylon spur gears wouldn't last. i even tried delrin gears and it chewed them up (even with proper gear mesh every time) don't worry about putting a steel gear on there, it's fine. all 1/8th scale buggies run steel spur gears.

doesgo

12-18-2004, 11:49 AM

We've been running the Picco .26, XTM 24.7, 24.7 Pro, Mach .26, and Fantom .27 in our Savages and never had any spur gear durability problems at all.

Jackyl

12-18-2004, 10:00 PM

With that big of an engine it might also be the power, ,what is the gearing that you are trying to use? Properly geared you shouldn't have a problem.

I had a phantom .27 in my savage I took it out and put in a hyper 8 port .21 and couldn't be happier. The rpm's of the bigger engines just rattle everything crazy. and the gearing had to be soo tall to keep the front wheels on the ground. It just wasn't worth it and well it wasn't that fun either. I'll take a .21-.25 in a savage over any .27+ anyday!!!

I had a 49t 18t in mine when I had the .27 and if a wheel got bound or something the spur would just get trashed. and you had to run the slipper tighter also because of the power the engine has so it's a no win situation.

big engine are meant for hybrids "buggy chassis vehicle" and buggies. With monster trucks it's all about the sweet spot. enough power and work your gearing.

sav-e o-so

12-19-2004, 02:21 AM

i had a wasp 26 and had no problems. i'm pretty sure i meshed it right but it still getting messed up. i'm running 52/49 gears and these are my third set of spurs. you guy's think it could be my clutch bell melting them?

badboy2

12-19-2004, 06:11 PM

try checkin if u have all the parts on the spur from the nut to the hex shim on the spur gear...or maybe youre right could be ur cb try putting it back to stock gears

Jackyl

12-19-2004, 09:28 PM

I just got done getting my savage back to roller state after a few months of pile-O-savage state. I have hot bodies aluminum shocks "48.99 tower" and I bought 4 backs of stock hpi shock shafts. I get these things all togher using 40wt and the purple hpi springs and then I'm droping it from above my head and it is taking it so I go a little bit higher, and then well I'm at about 10ft and I drop it and it goes *POOF* Out of 8 new shock shafts 2 are not bent. Well at this point since I know that I'm all about the BiG AiR go ahead and rebuild the shocks or what?

What are you guys running for shocks? I'm considering the losi lst shocks. but I don't like the idea that I hvae to get different shock towers to do it.

badboy2

12-19-2004, 10:10 PM

some use the stock towers but did some mods to fit it ..i think it will hit the tires/wheels with the stock ones

ritchies rc10gt

12-27-2004, 06:37 PM

well i just bought a savage.im leaving it stock for as long as i can,the only things i changed so far is the difs,it came with the 4 gear conversion for both ends and i put the aluminum dif cups in it,and i put the R/c trix aluminum arms and shock towers on it.i dont want to spend alot of money and turn this monster into a sick truck like i did my dominator,it stinks when every time you run it it tears its self apart.

anyways,heres my question

i seen on ebay that somebody was selling what appears to be monster pirate steering bell cranks as a replacement/upgrade for the savage.will they fit and work?i hav an extra set from when i crashed my MP,i replaced everything in the front end of the truck and the old bell cranks appear to have survived the crash,actually the only thing that appears to have survived.

savagepicco26

12-27-2004, 06:47 PM

i seen on ebay that somebody was selling what appears to be monster pirate steering bell cranks as a replacement/upgrade for the savage.will they fit and work?i hav an extra set from when i crashed my MP,i replaced everything in the front end of the truck and the old bell cranks appear to have survived the crash,actually the only thing that appears to have survived.
yes they work. here's how you do it:
http://www.savage-central.com/ftopic2361.html

here's a good article every savage owner should read:
http://www.savage-central.com/article29.html

the throttle mod made a big difference for me.

ritchies rc10gt

12-27-2004, 11:00 PM

what wieght dif oils do you guys recomend for running in the snow and mud?is 120,000wt to thick?

savagepicco26

12-28-2004, 09:23 AM

i always ran 7000 front and 3000 rear.

jerseyevo

12-28-2004, 11:42 AM

http://savageracer.com/savageracer/mx/

savagepicco26

12-28-2004, 08:22 PM

http://savageracer.com/savageracer/mx/
looks like a cool site. too bad you have to register just to browse the forums. too bad, guess i'll go back to savage-central. :mad:

RichSavage

12-28-2004, 11:50 PM

I have Savage 25 tuning questions:

After struggleing through the breakin period with my Savage, I attempted to move into the tuning stage. This has turned out to be a greater task the my T-Maxx ever thought of being.

I have had to take my Savage settings back to factory defaults twice now, and I am still having difficulties getting it running.

The current settings are:

Low speed 3 turns from all the way in.
Idle a shade over 1mm - the book says 2mm but the supplement that came with the truck indicated a change to 1mm. At this 1mm setting the truck seemed to be getting no gas and the only way I could get it to start was to manually crack open the throttle to about half.

Any assistance with this problem would be appreciated.

savagepicco26

12-29-2004, 12:22 AM

Idle a shade over 1mm - the book says 2mm but the supplement that came with the truck indicated a change to 1mm.
so set it back to 2mm and see what happens. i adjust the idle based on engine speed, not by measurement.

1 Bad STi

01-01-2005, 04:48 AM

1 Bad STi

01-01-2005, 04:53 AM

savagepicco26

01-01-2005, 11:02 AM

Actually you dont have to get different towers , although extended TVP's are a great way to polish it off and give you the extra clearence.

Check out the pic. got a bent one there! :D

nitroheads

01-02-2005, 03:12 PM

well, changed the spur gear and didn't really notice any difference in performance. don't really need it though. this thing is really showing it's colors now. i thought about upgrading the engine, but i don't need it. it's fast enough for me stock. i'm not racing it though. just playing around. one other thing i did was to get rid of the alkalines in the truck and replace them with a 1200mAhr 5-cell hump-pack. MAN WHAT A DIFFERENCE! servo response is much better and faster now. i also changed out the stock power switch for a new one with charge port. no more changing batteries for me! i definitely recommend this upgrade for everyone.

Hi,
What switch did you use to do these mods.?

Do you have a source, part number or code for this switch?

Regards,
Jameson Jenkins
nitroheads

savagepicco26

01-02-2005, 08:04 PM

you can just get a regular one from hobbico or airtronics that has a charge port on it.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX0906&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL306&P=0
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL303&P=0

Sgt Blamo

01-03-2005, 11:58 AM

I'm thinking about picking up a Savage, how durable of a truck is it? Any recommendations as to what to get, avoid, etc. I want to do it right the 1st time.

nitroheads

01-03-2005, 01:38 PM

We have a Savage screamer at our place :(

Yes, we have tuned, re-tuned, tightened glow plugs, checked fuel lines, reset needles, re-reset needles, everything except break this puppy down and reseal the lot from scratch.

We almost had it tuned yesterday and after an hour or so it starts screaming again. Crap!

We thought all those Nirtrostar motors with faulty back plate work had been corrected by the time we bought ours from Tower Hobbies.? Any help from someone that's had these problems would be greatly appreciated.

And THANKS savagepicco26 for the information on the power switch mods.

Regards,
Jameson
nitroheads

doesgo

01-03-2005, 01:43 PM

It's THE most durable truck out there, Blamo, at least in my experience and that of many, many others. It's not perfect out of the box, but it's very tough.

Initially it needs a four-gear diff upgrade as well as a stronger steering servo and servo saver, but that, along with a good rechargeable receiver battery pack, will set you up very nicely for a lot of tough bashing sessions.

doesgo

01-03-2005, 01:50 PM

"Yes, they work. They work better because of the bearings that will reduce slop and be ultimately smoother."

You can put bearings in the stock posts to replace the bushings (definitely recommended). The reason the MP saver works better is because it's far stiffer than the stock servo-mounted saver. You can put a nice high-torque servo in the Savage and never enjoy tight steering because the saver spring is absorbing the movement. The MP saver's spring is stiffer than stock (and a different design) so the movement of the servo is transmitted to the wheels.

nitroheads

01-04-2005, 05:22 AM

We have a Savage screamer at our place :(

nitroheads

Never mind...had a fuel line air leak at the carb. Temp. is around 240.

It really kicks a$$ now!!

Nitroheads

richkay228

01-05-2005, 10:28 PM

What about the wasp .26? Do those work good?

The Wasp .26 is a good engine, has the most brutal low end hit out of all the aftermarket .26's IMO. Mine is a pain to tune, does not hold a tune very well, but once tuned rewards you with a violent Savage wheelie engine. If you want the absolute most powerfull .26 at all rpm's AND a painless engine to tune I highly recommend the XTM 24.7 Pro. After spending time with this engine, I wish I would have saved my money, and not bought a Picco .26, a Wasp .28, a Wasp .26, and a Ofna Force .25!!! Ask around, many nitro MT experts agree, the XTM Pro is about the best .26 you can get.

kblewis04

01-07-2005, 06:46 PM

richkay228

01-07-2005, 10:17 PM

I'm having problems since I've installed a 5cell hump pack in my reciever. Whenever I apply the brake even at a stand still, the truck stalls. I have two questions: one, how many turns out should the idle screw be set at, and two, what do I do to adjust the linkage so it doesn't close the carb all the way when I use the brake. I have a new glow plug installed, and fully charged batteries in the reciever, and the radio. Any help would be appreciated.....

If you are running the stock Savage linkage, throw it in the trash. Ofna "slider" style linkages offer infinite adjustment, and are much easier on your servos. Move the throttle return spring to the roll bar, and the "L" pivot arm. (this is a very common free mod) this gets your throttle to fully close, then you can set a consistant idle with the screw. Turn the idle screw clockwise to raise the idle speed. If you want some pics of my modified throttle and brake linkages, PM me your email address, and I will send them to you.

dtbb825

01-10-2005, 09:40 PM

hey im new to this hobbie and i have a quick question. which do you think is better, the savage 25 or the revo?

savagepicco26

01-10-2005, 10:04 PM

hey im new to this hobbie and i have a quick question. which do you think is better, the savage 25 or the revo?
what for? racing or bashing?

dtbb825

01-10-2005, 10:10 PM

what for? racing or bashing?
well? does it really matter? i guess bashing cuz theres always things you can do to spped up the truck, but durability is tuffer to get.so definetly for bashing

fuzzy2133

01-11-2005, 08:05 PM

A Savage would be a much better basher.

dtbb825

01-12-2005, 03:13 PM

A Savage would be a much better basher.
thnks for your input. ive made up my mind def. gonna get a savage thanks for your help

savagepicco26

01-13-2005, 03:33 PM

thnks for your input. ive made up my mind def. gonna get a savage thanks for your help
savage's definitely a better basher than the revo. the revo's a better racer out of the box, but with some upgrades, the savage can be a really mean racer. i know mine was.

Monsterbrad

01-13-2005, 08:39 PM

Well have had them both and I can say that the Revo and the savage are probably close with the bashing thing but the Savage has way more power and is endeed very very tough....
I would buy another savage
as far as the revo
it needs to be re designed to handle a BB
even then its still a traxxas

dtbb825

01-13-2005, 09:45 PM

does anybody know how fast the savage 25 go?

savagepicco26

01-13-2005, 11:44 PM

30 or 35 maybe. depends on the gearing. you can make it do well over 40 on the street, but you won't have any bottom end torque.

doesgo

01-14-2005, 12:01 AM

Yep, depends on gearing and tuning. The stock Savage 21 could do about 31-33mph, I imagine a stock Savage 25 with off-road gearing could do 35-36, but I haven't verified that.

badger1972

01-16-2005, 01:43 PM

Hey guys, looking to get myself a new Savage 25 and would like some advice on what I should buy first up and who makes it.

Was planning on the Ofna linkages
A new servo for the steering, what type?
Battery hump pack, what type?
and maybe some tyres and rims.

Or would you do it differently?
Would appreciate some help and thanks for any replies

Jackyl

01-16-2005, 03:51 PM

a Hump pack should be the fist thing you will see the most from it. Then RPm rims any style that is offset and for tires nothing beats losi zombie maxx tires. The ofna linkage is good but not needed nearly as much as a different bellcrank steering setup "either ofna MP or HPI new setup" as for servo steering get whatever you can high torque and throttle brake will work for anything. The servo's are your preferance.

Does anyone know where to get the sh .28 or top .28 ? I hear these engines are like 119.99 ?

doesgo

01-16-2005, 04:00 PM

Last I checked, the SH was about $190 and the TOP is well over $200.

I agree with the RPM wheels, but I'd get standard offset, not the wide ones. The wide ones really put a load on your tie rod ends and tend to pull them off quite regularly when jumping.

Zombie Maxx tires are a great bashing tire, but they're really soft so don't bother trying to race with them.

savagepicco26

01-16-2005, 08:42 PM

Was planning on the Ofna linkages
A new servo for the steering, what type?
Battery hump pack, what type?
and maybe some tyres and rims.

Or would you do it differently?
Would appreciate some help and thanks for any replies
ofna linkages is a must. for steering, get an Airtronics 94358 or 94359. nothing better out there. that's what i run in my Mugen buggy for racing. for the hump pack, get cheap ones off ebay and get a couple. i had one die on me and didn't have a spare. also, you'll need to change out your stock power switch for one that has a charge port on it so you don't have to open the radio box everytime to charge the batts. if you want to race, nothing out there beats a set of proline velocity 40 dish rims with some proline bowtie 40's. for bashing, the stock ones are fine. i would do the diff upgrade before wheels.

Needler56

01-16-2005, 11:14 PM

what are the fm transmitters out there that will accept the reverse module for the savage?

doesgo

01-16-2005, 11:57 PM

Any 3-channel transmitter/receiver will work with the reverse module.

savagepicco26

01-17-2005, 07:52 AM

get the MX-3. it's cheap and does just about anything you'll ever need for $100.

harley1874666

01-17-2005, 10:29 AM

Any 3-channel transmitter/receiver will work with the reverse module.
aren't there two kinds of third channel transmitters though? on one the third channel is a switching kind which is what you need for reverse and the other is different, i forget exactly how right now.

Needler56

01-17-2005, 10:31 AM

get the MX-3. it's cheap and does just about anything you'll ever need for $100.

yea thats the one i had in mind. does the M8 have a switchable third channel? and as for synthesized tx and rx, do both have to be synthesized? or can the synthesized tx be dialed to the unsynthesized rx with a crystal?

Jackyl

01-17-2005, 04:36 PM

You can pick up the JR XS3 "original" for around 100-120 now. since the pro is 145 there is no point in getting fm or am anymore unless all you absolutly have is 100bucks. But then I would say SAVE! it's worth it in the end.

Also who is going to pick up one of the hpi .28's when they come out?

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52142&stc=1

doesgo

01-17-2005, 04:50 PM

The XS3 Pro is around $240, isn't it? I think the original XS3 is around $190. And those are indeed synthesized, but they're still FM.

Jackyl

01-17-2005, 05:01 PM

Yes, those prices are right sorry!!
and yes it would be either am or fm pcm. I have a XS3 Pro and 2 rs310 rx's and I love em'. The fact that it is 75bucks for the rx is well a bit high but it's nice to just grab a model switch to it on the tx and then fire it up and GO.
The XS3 Pro is around $240, isn't it? I think the original XS3 is around $190. And those are indeed synthesized, but they're still FM.

illbreakit

01-19-2005, 11:15 AM

Hey, just lettin all you Savage owners know, I have some newly released, CNC machined, lowered and extended TVP's on the market now IN both 6061 alum, and Carbon Fiber composite. If you want more info, DKP_Design (http://www3.telus.net/public/dpesonen/)

http://www3.telus.net/public/dpesonen/images/TVPALUMtmb.jpg http://www3.telus.net/public/dpesonen/images/TVPCFtmb.jpg

rush freak

01-20-2005, 04:23 PM

who makes the 4 gear diff for the savage

doesgo

01-20-2005, 05:19 PM

HPI does.

savagepicco26

01-20-2005, 05:31 PM

i just got a set of cross pins from kyosho or ofna and then bought an extra set of HPI diff gears. don't use the buggy gears. most of them are not hardened to take the abuse of a MT.

Jackyl

01-20-2005, 08:14 PM

Or just spend the money on a set of ofna spider diffs for you savage and forget about it.... you'll have the best of the best diffs in your savage then.

savagepicco26

01-20-2005, 08:32 PM

Or just spend the money on a set of ofna spider diffs for you savage and forget about it.... you'll have the best of the best diffs in your savage then.
are those hardened though? the only ofna's i've seen weren't hardened like the HPI's are. the ofna's are weaker.

wrecked

01-22-2005, 07:59 AM

Waht engine do you think is the best out of these three engines?

XTM 24.7 pro
Picco .26
OS RG

savagepicco26

01-22-2005, 09:13 AM

Waht engine do you think is the best out of these three engines?

XTM 24.7 pro
Picco .26
OS RG
i would say the picco from when i had it. the OS RG is a throwaway .21 engine that a lot of buggy guys buy when they first start racing. once they realize it's pretty low powered, they throw it away and get an RB or Nova Rossi engine. the RG has great low end torque in a buggy, not sure in a MT, but it's very limited on the top end since it's a 3-port motor. the picco .26 has 5 ports plus 2 bypass, so you've got a good mix of low end power and top end speed.

fuzzy2133

01-22-2005, 11:56 AM

the OS RG will give you power that can be controlled comming out of turns in the middle RPM ranges unlike the .26's that are out there. another thing about the RG is that it is easy to tune and will hold it well. the .26 is the most powerfull however the middle RPM range is lacking in useable power you will tend to find your self wide open alot to get the truck moving out of a corner and possibly spinning out. the .26 can be touchy to tune. the XTM 24.7 pro I have heard many good things about but no first hand opinions.

doesgo

01-22-2005, 03:11 PM

I love my RG! It was a bit weak in the Savage, though, as savagepicco suggested. I've found it to be just like my .12CV-R and .15CV-R though. A reasonably powerful, EXTREMELY reliable powerplant that just runs and runs and runs.

But between those engines suggested for a Savage, I'd go with the 24.7 Pro.

Jackyl

01-22-2005, 03:38 PM

I would imagine that the ofna spyder diffs are hardend, Since they hold up to imex jumbo maxx tires and 14/52 gearing with my fantom .27 and a 3 shoe aluminum clutch. And for the price that they cost I sure hope that they are :D

wrecked

01-24-2005, 10:44 AM

I just ordered a pull start picco .26 from tower last night!!!!:)

savagepicco26

01-24-2005, 11:03 AM

you can take the pull start off and put the roto start on there. just get an alluminum 12mm hex and put inbetween the starter shaft that goes through the back plate and the roto start. that's what i did with mine and it worked great.

wrecked

01-26-2005, 12:49 PM

Is the Picco 26 p3 more powerfull or is that some sort of fake rumer? :confused: I got the one with the purple cooling head.

savagepicco26

01-26-2005, 01:34 PM

Is the Picco 26 p3 more powerfull or is that some sort of fake rumer? :confused: I got the one with the purple cooling head.
yes it is. it's the exact same motor that ofna sells as the picco outlaw. ofna just relables it. they get it from Picco. it's much better than the stock motor.

Pat Fierle

01-26-2005, 01:35 PM

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/savage/savagertr25.jpg

Most of the chassis parts are carried over from the Savage 21, proven to be extremely durable and supported by a huge assortment of option parts from HPI and other manufacturers. The running changes to the Savage 25 were designed to maintain the excellent parts support already on the market, yet offer the customer a faster and more durable truck.

To wrap up the package, the Savage 25 is competitively priced. Even with the long list of added features – Roto Start, bigger engine, extra gearing – the street price for the truck will only be around $20 more than the Savage 21.

Features:
Nitro Star S-25 engine (ABC) with slide carburetor
Purple anodized, billet aluminum heatsink engine head
Roto Start System installed!
Aluminum high flow tube rear exhaust header
Stiff black shock springs
New rear pick-up 160cc fuel tank with no primer
Three-shoe clutch
Revised wheel hex hubs
Pre-painted trimmed GT-1 truck body in all-new colors with Savage 25 decals applied
Giant 1/8th scale (16.8" x 21")
Factory assembled
Full-time shaft driven four wheel drive
Complete set of rubber sealed ball bearings
TF-4 radio system with high torque steering servo
Composite tuned pipe and aluminum rear exhaust header
Cast aluminum heavy-duty engine mount
Heavy-duty drivetrain and suspension optimized for big-block engines
Hardened metal differential gears
Adjustable 2 speed transmission with heavy-duty metal internal gears
Adjustable slipper clutch
Adjustable disc brake
Wide-track suspension (nearly 17 inches wide!)
Stainless steel inboard hinge pins with anodized aluminum braces
8 long stroke oil-filled coilover shock absorbers
Rigid aluminum TVP chassis (Twin Vertical Plates)
Enclosed radio box for protection of electronics
Front and rear skidplate bumpers
Adjustable body posts (with extra mount for SUV bodies)
Chrome 5 spoke wheels and all-terrain tires (with inner foam)
*Compatible with T-Maxx bodies, wheels and tires

--Optional reverse module for transmission (using the 3rd channel of the TF-4 radio system)

See this chart for an easy comparison of the Savage 25 to the Savage 21!

RTR Savage 21
Engine: 21BB
Starting System: Manual Pullstart
Spur Gear: 52T
Clutch Bell: 14T
Clutch Type: Two Shoe
Shock Springs: Red Medium
Fuel Tank: with primer, front pick-up without primer, rear pick-up
Body: Black-Silver-Purple Red-Black-Silver-Gray

RTR Savage 25
Engine: Nitro Star S-25
Starting System: Roto Start System
Spur Gear: 49T
Clutch Bell: 15T or 18T
Clutch Type: Three Shoe
Shock Springs: Black Firm
Fuel Tank: Rear pick-up without primer
Body: Red-Black-Silver-Gray

#832 RTR Savage 25 Truck with Nitro GT-1 Truck Body
Suggested retail price: $775.00

For more information, visit www.hpiracing.com

looks nice.very clean. good job!

savagepicco26

01-26-2005, 01:39 PM

looks nice.very clean. good job!
are you serious? please tell me you're joking.... :confused:

richkay228

01-26-2005, 02:16 PM

Waht engine do you think is the best out of these three engines?

XTM 24.7 pro
Picco .26
OS RG

I have both the XTM Pro, and the Picco .26. I have to say hands down the XTM 24.7 Pro is my best performing engine. Slightly more power then the Picco on top end, but the huge bonus with the XTM is how easy the engine starts and tunes! The XTM 24.7 is virtually idiot proof as far as ease of tuning.
Rich

fuzzy2133

01-26-2005, 10:46 PM

I have both the XTM Pro, and the Picco .26. I have to say hands down the XTM 24.7 Pro is my best performing engine. Slightly more power then the Picco on top end, but the huge bonus with the XTM is how easy the engine starts and tunes! The XTM 24.7 is virtually idiot proof as far as ease of tuning.
Rich

dang you are making me want to install my 24.7 pro sitting on the shelf to replace the current .26.

nothing is idiot proof. kinda of like not using the search function before starting a new thread, or umm yea...

trw

01-27-2005, 12:23 AM

richkay228

01-27-2005, 11:05 AM

hey yall, my friend is having a gear problem, he put a Picco .26 in his truck and a GH steel spur, and now he is stripping clutch bells gears continuously, the mesh is set good, heck we even let the LHS set the mesh and it still keeps stripping the clutch bell, any stronger replacement available?

For you to be stripping metal spurs, you have a major issue somewhere. Buying a "stronger" spur is only a Band-Aid for the real issue (which will result in breakage of a more expensive drivetrain component).I am totally against steel spurs. Cheap plastic spurs are awesome insurance against breaking transmissions, or diffs. The only thing with internet diagnostics, is it's hard to tell without actually seeing your truck. As for your problem, either the mesh is way too tight, or way too loose. Is anything loosening up? (engine mount screws, spur gear slipper nut set properly? Check for worn clutchbell bearings. and spur gear input shaft bearing.
Rich

trw

01-27-2005, 11:45 PM

yea, all that is quite fine, see his truck will run fine at the race track on the loose dirt, but when he gets home to his yard, bam the clutch bell strips, and we also tried plastic spurs before and those stripped almost instantly, and it doesnt matter what the mesh is, it always strips, and yes we checked the mounts and those are as tight as we can get it, both mount screws on the block and chassis, is there like a clutch bell he can use form a different truck that could hold up better?

do you think his slipper could be to tight?

Jackyl

01-28-2005, 04:07 AM

Check the slipper pad, it might be smoked. if it is then you would be tightening the slipper nut to compensate for it. if it isn't then move onto something else.

What kind of clutchbell are you using? hpi? if so try a ofna clutchbell or gear the truck a little taller so it dampens the power of the .26.

I agree with the metal spur/clutchbell can damage other components but it really comes down to how you drive and when your on and off the gas.

I run a rrp 52/14 on my hyper .21 in my savage and well haven't had any problems with the diffs or anything and I run my slipper dead "fully tight" now I have toasted a rear diff bearing and the diffs are getting loose but they are old and need to be rebuilt. and I've been running in the snow this winter also.

Sooo. Check your slipper pad, if it's good then try a ofna clutchbell but there really isn't any reason that you should be stripping a clutchbell and your lhs should have an answer for you otherwise find a new hobby shop to go to.

And if you want the best in gears RRP is the place to get them. they have a 52/14 and 48/16 sets if you strip those you should well you won't :D

savagepicco26

01-28-2005, 09:37 AM

savagepicco26

01-28-2005, 09:44 AM

For you to be stripping metal spurs, you have a major issue somewhere. Buying a "stronger" spur is only a Band-Aid for the real issue (which will result in breakage of a more expensive drivetrain component).I am totally against steel spurs. Cheap plastic spurs are awesome insurance against breaking transmissions, or diffs. The only thing with internet diagnostics, is it's hard to tell without actually seeing your truck. As for your problem, either the mesh is way too tight, or way too loose. Is anything loosening up? (engine mount screws, spur gear slipper nut set properly? Check for worn clutchbell bearings. and spur gear input shaft bearing.
Rich
i agree that everything you posted here needs to be checked first. i ultimately put a Robinson Racing steel spur and clutch bell combo on mine, after i made sure there was nothing else i could do. it was my last resort. i upgraded to the picco .26 and started busting diffs. i upgraded the diffs to the 4 gear and never had a problem. then i started busting dogbones. so i went to the HPI heavy duty dog bones and never had another problem. then i broke the center drive cups. so i replaced them with the HPI heavy duty cups and never had a problem. then i started stripping spurs. i tried stock and the savage 21 spurs. i stripped out at least 10 gears while racing. i tried every adjustment possible and nothing worked. everyone at the track said to put a steel gear on it, but i was hesitant thinking if the spur didn't strip, then something else more expensive might break. i finally gave in and put the Robinson combo on it, set the mesh and never had another problem from it. 1/8th scale buggies all have steel spur gears, and they are easier on the drivetrain than MT's. if all else fails, try the steel spur, but make sure you get the matching clutch bell. you shouldn't need a steel gear with the stock motor though. if you're stripping gears with the stock motor, there's something wrong with the truck.

richkay228

01-28-2005, 10:34 AM

i agree that everything you posted here needs to be checked first. i ultimately put a Robinson Racing steel spur and clutch bell combo on mine, after i made sure there was nothing else i could do. it was my last resort. i upgraded to the picco .26 and started busting diffs. i upgraded the diffs to the 4 gear and never had a problem. then i started busting dogbones. so i went to the HPI heavy duty dog bones and never had another problem. then i broke the center drive cups. so i replaced them with the HPI heavy duty cups and never had a problem. then i started stripping spurs. i tried stock and the savage 21 spurs. i stripped out at least 10 gears while racing. i tried every adjustment possible and nothing worked. everyone at the track said to put a steel gear on it, but i was hesitant thinking if the spur didn't strip, then something else more expensive might break. i finally gave in and put the Robinson combo on it, set the mesh and never had another problem from it. 1/8th scale buggies all have steel spur gears, and they are easier on the drivetrain than MT's. if all else fails, try the steel spur, but make sure you get the matching clutch bell. you shouldn't need a steel gear with the stock motor though. if you're stripping gears with the stock motor, there's something wrong with the truck.

I could see an expert nitro racer seeing advantages of a steel spur, but ONLY to the expert and or racer who is totally capeable of setting one up with a perfect mesh, and racers frequently tear down and inspect their race vehicles and can forsee problems, and worn parts. If a person has to ask on the internet about spurs stripping and why, they are obviously new and need advise. My Ofna MBX has a steel ring gear, but it also has a center diff, which absorbs a lot of stress. I still feel for the novice basher, plastic spurs are the way to go. I would rather replace a $4 spur, than an $80 transmission/ diff, or worse a bent engine crank from a high speed pebble jamming the metal spur. (strictly my opinions)
Rich

savagepicco26

01-28-2005, 05:19 PM

I could see an expert nitro racer seeing advantages of a steel spur, but ONLY to the expert and or racer who is totally capeable of setting one up with a perfect mesh, and racers frequently tear down and inspect their race vehicles and can forsee problems, and worn parts. If a person has to ask on the internet about spurs stripping and why, they are obviously new and need advise. My Ofna MBX has a steel ring gear, but it also has a center diff, which absorbs a lot of stress. I still feel for the novice basher, plastic spurs are the way to go. I would rather replace a $4 spur, than an $80 transmission/ diff, or worse a bent engine crank from a high speed pebble jamming the metal spur. (strictly my opinions)
Rich
i couldn't agree with you more. i would not call my self an expert by any means :rolleyes: but i am a racer. i no longer have my savage as i have moved on to 1/8th scale buggies and gotten a Mugen MBX5. but as you said, racers are constanty tearing their vehicles apart checking stuff and changing worn parts. i did this with my savage as well. you're right though, i would not recommend the steel spur gear for the backyard basher that is just ripping up spurs from bashing. if they're running the stock enigine and tearing up spur gears, something is wrong and a steel gear will only make the damages more costly.

rayzor267

01-29-2005, 12:54 PM

Dog Bone question? I'm new at Trucks and I see theres no rubber boots to help keep the dirt out of the dogbone, is there after market boots or OEM?

richkay228

01-31-2005, 06:56 AM

Dog Bone question? I'm new at Trucks and I see theres no rubber boots to help keep the dirt out of the dogbone, is there after market boots or OEM?

Dirt is really not the reason dog bones fail, the drive pins start to gouge grooves in the diff cups causing the pin to shear off simply from torque. Dust boots really wouldn't offer any advantages.
Rich

savagepicco26

01-31-2005, 08:36 AM

Dog Bone question? I'm new at Trucks and I see theres no rubber boots to help keep the dirt out of the dogbone, is there after market boots or OEM?
you can't really put boots on dog bone-drive cups. they're only intended for CVA's. i run them on my 1/8th scale buggies' CVA's, but by design, they wouldn't stay on the drive cups of the savage. they'd get torn off. besides, as mentioned, there's no need for them.

wrecked

01-31-2005, 08:53 AM

I got my picco 26 in the other day and started braking it in :D :D . It sure has a ton of compression. The other day i was am my LHS (Action Hobby's) and picked up a r/c solutions roll cage for $105 :cool: . I realy like my car now :p . the only bad thing about a roll cage is its hard to charge the reciever batteries. And for thr third time my $90 HS 955 servo broke :mad: :mad:

2mcgrath

02-13-2005, 11:15 AM

anyone know the size bearing's you would need to replace the bushings in the stock bellcranks...also you guys doing anything different (while using stock motor)on the brass bushing that goes in front of the clutch bell my bushing finnally wore enough to go over my clutch bell screw...i bought my savage 25 brand new last feb..so a year ago.. and this is pretty much the only thing that has happened to it..i had the rear diff screws back out and caused it to strip the diff but other than that nothing..and beleive it or not im on 10 gallons with this stock motor..i always run marvel mystery oil in the fuel and use it for after run oil dont know if that has anything to do with it lasting or not..but i also have it tuned perfect and have never ran it hot..also my rear diff cup is worn so badly its about to break..what cvd's you guys recommend to get rid of that problem..

doesgo

02-13-2005, 12:33 PM

wrecked: why not solder in an external charge lead to your receiver pack? Then you never have to open up the radio box.

2mcgrath: The bearings are 6mm x 10mm, very common bearing for steering bellcranks in various vehicles. Sounds like you've gotten a ton of use out of your Savage! That's awesome.

I've had good luck with the Hot Bodies Mega-Travel CVDs as long as you put a little notch in the pin and use Loctite on the grub screw.

2mcgrath

02-13-2005, 05:36 PM

thanks for the info man

ineed2selmycars

02-19-2005, 05:02 PM

does the new savage ss 4.6 come with a radio ?

Breakin2

02-19-2005, 09:34 PM

Nope, it's a kit.

mautoys

02-21-2005, 02:54 PM

i like to upgrade my savage 25 whith the ofna picco 26 engine,i have to know what
parts of my standar savage 25 i have to upgrade to.I am new in r/c cars

electric130

02-22-2005, 08:34 PM

i like to upgrade my savage 25 whith the ofna picco 26 engine,i have to know what
parts of my standar savage 25 i have to upgrade to.I am new in r/c cars
heavy duty drive cups and dog bones all around,
4-gear diff mod
i'd also recommend a better steering servo, the ofna steering mod, and the ofna throttle/brake mod.

ZLODEY

02-24-2005, 01:58 PM

What is the first mod you would recommend to start with? Maybe the list of mods I should go for? 1, 2, 3, ... etc.
Thanks! :)

electric130

02-24-2005, 03:06 PM

see my post above. also, this has been covered numerous times in this thread. i know it's long, but go back and look for the posts covering upgrades. i know i've posted on this at least once or twice before. savagepicco26 has posted on it before also.

mautoys

02-24-2005, 08:36 PM

heavy duty drive cups and dog bones all around,
4-gear diff mod
i'd also recommend a better steering servo, the ofna steering mod, and the ofna throttle/brake mod.

:) thanks,i all ready buy hpi savage ss k4.6 kit from towerhobbies.
is not in stock-but early march will be.
WHAT OPINION DO YOU DESERTS?

kurrz

02-26-2005, 01:45 PM

hey guys hate to bother you with any newb questions but im going to i am torn between a MGT and a Savage i know the mechanical differences just wanted to know how hard the savage is to tune, how tough it is, and if any newb could get it to run right also some say its hard to work on is this true? thanks all input appreciated thanks kurrz

stonesavage

02-26-2005, 09:24 PM

kurrz

02-26-2005, 10:30 PM

I"M selling a nice savage 25/w all the mods it's rtr very nice cond for only $200 pics at www.savagecentral.com look for name ronz
went to that address seems to be a video game site didnt seem right or maybe i need to look harder

Monsterbrad

02-26-2005, 11:49 PM

www.savage-central.com
:-)

kurrz

02-27-2005, 03:44 PM

thanks monsterbrad i found it but im going in another direction thanks again

Needler56

02-27-2005, 10:49 PM

anyone have experience with any of these two shocks? if not, what is everyone using and their experience on them?

harley1874666

03-02-2005, 03:04 AM

i've been using the stockers since day one and the only time they bent is when one of those horrible hpi adjustable upper arms folded up on me.

Jackyl

03-02-2005, 09:32 AM

I'm trying to decide on what engine for my savage, I have a ageing hyper turbo .21 4 port in it now. I also have a .27 Fantom in my buggy. I have a Hot bodies .21 engine also, and I'm considering purchasing the K4.6 for the savage but I can't decide on that or if I should put the fantom .27 in the savage and get a better .21 for the buggy?

Any ideas guys? the thing I don't like about the fantom is the rpm's I don't like how it screams, it's great in the buggy as it's a single speed but for the savage I don't need that rpm.

Also does anyone know of a article on porting the hot bodies / hpi .21 engine? It's basically a new engine and I would like to get more out of it.

Or should I sell the hyper and the hb .21 and use that money towards the K4.6 ?

I want my savage to wheelie but I don't want the engine to scream while doing it!

Also does anyone know of any problems with taking a piston and sleeve from a fantom .27 and milling the crankcase of a hyper .21 to take the sleeve and then running it? basically making a stroker engine?

doesgo

03-02-2005, 10:06 AM

When our Fantom 27 ran well, it was awesome in a Savage! Great low-end power (thanks in part to the gearing) and a great top speed with the rpm that Fantom will turn. Why is that a bad thing?

If it were me I'd sell the HB21 and the Hyper and buy a nice buggy engine. Then again, do you race your buggy? If you don't need to be race-legal with the buggy, keep the Fantom in it since you like it there, and buy a new engine for the Savage, like an SH 28 or XTM 24.7 Pro or Picco .26.

Jackyl

03-02-2005, 08:39 PM

I don't know yet how the local tracks are going to be. Out of 3 of them, I know 1 for sure is going to stick to the .21 limit, while the other 2 will probably be "whatever" rules.

I like the fantom .27 but I just found that high rpm isn't needed when you have a bid displacement engine. I really like the K4.6 over the other engines that are out.

ritchies rc10gt

03-05-2005, 10:44 PM

i dont know if its been done yet,but heres how to put ofna wheels on the savage.get the wheel hexes and pins for a monster pirate.the hexes have a little ridge on the back of them where they contact the bearing,grind,sand or file that ridge off.remove the tires and stock pins and hexes.you should now be able to put the monster pirate hexes on the axles and put the pins in.the wheels will hold the pins in the hex.you may need to sand,grind or file a little more off the hexes to get them to fit,i didnt have to.the ofna wheels for the dominator will widen the truck a little bit and should make it handle better.plus now you can use rims that wont break too easily and also use buggy tires and rims.i got tired of breaking rims.since i also have a dominator i dont have to buy a set of wheels and tires for each truck,i can now use the same wheels and tires on both trucks.

rcman22

03-06-2005, 03:01 AM

im thinking about buying a savage. is the engine reliable and easy to tune? I want a basher that will never stop

wrecked

03-07-2005, 11:08 AM

I have a savage with a picco .26 and im having a problem with my slipper clutch. i keep burning up the sliper pad and the inside of the spur gear unless it is completly tightend down all the way. I tried puting on new lock nuts and a new spring but it keeps happening. Does anyone know how to fix this?

Jackyl

03-08-2005, 02:24 AM

The savage 25RTR is a great truck, the .25 is great and if you want more and have motor experience then do the mod that RCCA has done about the .25!!

As for the slipper, When I had my .27 fantom in my savage, I had it gearined 49/18 and I just tightened the slipper down all the way, and then backed off like .5 turn! no problems! But I tightentend it down tight first :D

what do you guys think about these engines for the savage? from best to worst and why?

Fantom .27
Wasp .28
Diablo .28
K4.6 HPI .28

doesgo

03-08-2005, 06:31 AM

The Wasp and Diablo .28s are essentially the same (so is the Peak Racing .28), all made by Team Infinity and all are of questionable quality. Some people are happy with them but many are not.

I believe the K4.6 HPI .28 is made by SH, which is a better product, or at least seems that way. Don't know for sure though, since I don't have one. You know about the Fantom .27.

If I were to buy a new engine for a Savage and cost was a concern, it'd be either the XTM 24.7 Pro or the Picco .26 (OFNA/Picco, Wasp, or Werks, they're all essentially the same).

rcguy132

03-15-2005, 07:04 PM

Anyone hook me up with some vids of stock MGT or Savage?

doesgo

03-15-2005, 07:14 PM

Stock Savage....meaning 21? 25? SS? 4.6?

rcguy132

03-16-2005, 03:27 PM

25 (RTR or ss)

doesgo

03-16-2005, 09:26 PM

The orange Savage in Farm Bash 7 (parts 1 and 2) at www.slapmafro.com is a stock Savage 25. The other Savages in our vids started as Savage 21s but are nowhere near stock.

rcguy132

03-17-2005, 08:51 PM

You guys have greatwork, thanks

doesgo

03-17-2005, 09:22 PM

Thanks rcguy!

wrecked

03-29-2005, 09:33 AM

Did anyone notice waht hpi is doing to the savage 25 rtr? Their selling them with the 4 gear diff mod and their new cam type servo saver already installed for the same price!!!!! Isent that awsom.

savagepicco26

03-29-2005, 10:17 AM

what do you guys think about these engines for the savage? from best to worst and why?

Fantom .27
Wasp .28
Diablo .28
K4.6 HPI .28if you want a .28, get an RB.

Jackyl

03-29-2005, 01:30 PM

Does the new hpi cam servo saver work better in the savage than the ofna MP cam mod?

I have the ofna parts in my savage now and have never had a problem with it but if the hpi is a better fit and operates better than I would be willing to switch over to it.

And for the engine an RB is out of my price range. 300bucks is to much for any engine! 210is really pushing it.

a 23cc zenoah new is 200bucks! :eek: now if I could only figure out how to get it into the savage and work with the tranny :D muhahaha *Power*

doesgo

03-29-2005, 03:24 PM

If you already have the MP mod, don't bother switching. The HPI version is easier to install, however I don't believe it works any better.

The SH .28 is probably the best bang for the buck out there right now. The XTM 24.7 Pro is a very good engine though, and I've seen them on sale for around $140.

Jackyl

03-29-2005, 05:46 PM

I hear about the SH all the time, and I'll probaby go that route if my lhs can get em' "discount" otherwise what about team infinity? are they any good? or stay far far away from them ?

savagepicco26

03-29-2005, 07:36 PM

i had an SH .21 before and it wouldn't hold a tune for crap. even tried a different carb. SH's suck IMO. now i run nothing but RB. you get what you pay for.

doesgo

03-29-2005, 07:45 PM

I've run three SHs with very good success, a GS 21B01, GS R25MT, and an XTM 24.7. All are made by SH, all have run quite well and quite strongly. The Mach 26 is also made by SH and is quite good.

I'd rather have RB engines, to be sure, but for the money the SHs are pretty good in my experience.

Needler56

03-30-2005, 02:24 AM

the last time i ran my truck i ran it through a muddy puddle and the heatsink head of the engine started really smoking. but it was still running like a champ. i'm assuming it wasn't overheating, actually know it wasn't overheating cause we put the temp gun to it, so i'm assuming it was just steam. but is that ok? i seen some crazy video on savage central i think of some guy running his savage on them jumbo kong tires in a lake, and the head was smoking like crazy. i think it was called "swimming savage" on the boards.

doesgo

03-30-2005, 06:32 AM

Just sounds like steam to me, you should be fine. Keep an eye on it, but I wouldn't worry about it.

Jackyl

04-01-2005, 08:04 PM

doesgo

04-01-2005, 08:22 PM

You could go with the Nova shock towers that allow you to run 1/9-scale buggy shocks, then buy some good-quality shocks like Kyosho or Mugen with 3.5mm shafts. Much less susceptible to bending.

The other, cheaper option would be to try a lower viscosity shock oil in your Savage shocks. I'm wondering if there's too much load on them because the fluid is too thick? Cheap to do, much cheaper than two shock towers and four spendy shocks!

The LST shock shafts aren't really known for their durability, unfortunately.

savagepicco26

04-01-2005, 09:27 PM

I'm sick and tired of busting the shocks, I blow the caps off the stock shocks, I bend the stock shock shafts. I'm running 40wt front and rear. with purple springs. I thought I was upgrading when I bought a set of HB savage shocks and tried to use the stock shafts in the hb bodies. bend after bend I was wrong now. about 8 shafts later and alot shorter fuse! I'm ready for a solution.

I'm a basher, I like to get big air probably around 7-8' of it all day long ! I love it, but my savage shocks can't hang! And I want to know what shocks do I need to get that will allow me jump my savage all day long and not bust shocks up all day long "granted I land on the correct side:D"

I saw some pics of lst shocks a few posts back, and well I'm up for that but no part #'s or more pics or info saying how well they work on how to mount them up to the truck.

Please help me get my air back, I miss it......Damn you shocks damn you to HELL!! :mad:
LST shocks are weak as hell! don't waste your money. i used to race my savage and i had HB threaded alluminum shocks on there and never bent a shaft or blew a cap. i ran 35wt oil front and back. the HB option would be about $70 for the set. these are the exact ones i had http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5965918147
to got the 8th scale route, you'd need the towers for $65 plus 2 sets of rear buggy shocks. Mugen's or Kyosho's will run you about $60 per set for shocks and springs. so you're looking at about $185 to go the buggy shock route.

67f100StPro

04-01-2005, 09:51 PM

Jackyl, are you sure you are not overfilling them? I jump my Savage regularly and haven't had any shock problems.

Jackyl

04-02-2005, 01:57 AM

I have the hb shocks that you linked to. And I'm pretty sure i'm not overfilling them. They are fluid in movement before I mount them onto the truck. But it seems like they just like to bend shafts. granted O go big! like second gear full out then hit the dirt pile and soar like and eagle! :D

I'm pretty sure that I have some 35wt, I'll replace the shock shaft that bent and try to fix the 2 that were in the right rear that just tore the lower c-clip from the shock shaft on the inside, "the lower c-clip that holds the valve in place" of the shock. I'll give another wirl and see how things turn out.

I did see titanium shafts for the lst shocks and better valves also for the lst shocks. I just like the idea of a big shock, in theory one of those shocks should be able to take alot more abuse than 2 of the savage shocks.

doesgo

04-02-2005, 09:37 AM

We ran the HB shocks and did lots of jumping and their life span was much shorter than that of the stock shocks! I'm sure they're good on the track, but serious jumping toasts them.

I'd drop to something like 20wt and test them out, dropping from 40wt to 35wt isn't likely to change much.

The "titanium" shock shafts are just titanium-nitride coated, the shafts themselves aren't made of titanium. This makes the action smoother, but the shafts aren't any stronger than stock.

wrecked

04-02-2005, 10:01 AM

Has anyone tried the integry msr5 shocks? im thinking about getting them.

Needler56

04-02-2005, 01:49 PM

Has anyone tried the integry msr5 shocks? im thinking about getting them.

i was thinkin bout getting them too. but then hpi has savage shocks too and was wondering if anyone has any experience on those.

Jackyl

04-02-2005, 03:49 PM

titanium shock shafts (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5966754043&rd=1)

These are NOT Titanium nitrate!! these are Titanium! And I posted over in the lst forums and those guys say that the lst shocks are tough.

I'm probably just going to go back with the stock shocks and ditch the hb's I hate them and it's a leason learned.

But I'll probably build a set of lst shocks for my savage as they are the best shock on the market and can handle more abuse than any other shock out right now.

Jackyl

04-02-2005, 08:49 PM

Well the hb shocks suck! I switched them all to 20wt and I still blew lower c-clips on 2 rear shocks and bent one rear shock shaft.

I'll try the stock shocks once again, but I have a feeling that I'm going to bend shock shafts on those also.

Has anyone successfully installed the lst shocks on their savage?

I'm still on the hunt for the absolute best shocks for the savage? are buggy shocks and the nova towers and aluminum lower arms a better route than the lst shocks?

doesgo

04-03-2005, 12:57 PM

I thought you meant the Losi shafts, I didn't look at your link.

I imagine they'd cetainly be better than plain steel!

doesgo

04-03-2005, 12:59 PM

As for the stock shocks' durability, we did some pretty hard bashing with an LST yesterday and the stock shocks held up great. The arms, not so much, but the shocks did!

Jackyl

04-03-2005, 03:11 PM

So the ultimate shock setup for a savage basher would be nova towers and 8 high quality 3.5mm shaft 8th scale buggy shocks or 4 lst shocks?

doesgo

04-03-2005, 05:08 PM

Probably. How much are complete LST shocks on eBay? I believe Kyosho 3.5mm shocks are around $100/set.

savagepicco26

04-03-2005, 07:12 PM

jackyl, if you land squarely on the wheels each time, i bet you wouldn't blow out any shocks. :D

Jackyl

04-04-2005, 04:30 AM

I ended up rebuilding a set of stockers with 20wt and well they held up so I'll see how long things last for.

but I finished up my jeep body !FiNaLlY!

Just wanted to show you guys :D

http://beatyourtruck.com/Gallery/albums/savage/axe.jpg
BIG PICTURE (http://www.wisconsinnitro.com/e107_plugins/kig_menu/_imagefiles/jeepbody02.jpg)

http://beatyourtruck.com/Gallery/albums/savage/axd.jpg
BIG PICTURE (http://www.wisconsinnitro.com/e107_plugins/kig_menu/_imagefiles/jeepbody01.jpg)

http://beatyourtruck.com/Gallery/albums/savage/axg.jpg
BIG PICTURE (http://www.wisconsinnitro.com/e107_plugins/kig_menu/_imagefiles/jeepbody04.jpg)