HPI RTR Savage 25

[raffaelli]

I was thinking that one also. Thanks for the information!

[nitro_newbie]

i was wondring wat the space between the 2 tvps on the savage are.like were all the internals go thanx this would help me alot in my project

nitro~newbie:)

[ineed2selmycars]

i don't no... but the next person that replys will.. i hope

[savagepicco26]

i was wondring wat the space between the 2 tvps on the savage are.like were all the internals go thanx this would help me alot in my project

nitro~newbie:)
what are you wanting to know? your question is too vague to answer.

[nitro_newbie]

the space between the two tvps which holds everything. were the motrs goes between. i was wondering wat the distance between the tvps was assembled on the truck. i hope that isnt to vague well does anybody know how to post pictures so i can explain it better

nitro~newbie:)

[doesgo]

I measure 2.910", which is 73.9mm.

[nitro_newbie]

thaNX alot il see because i wante to make a custom truck wit savage style chassis

thanx
nitro~newbie

[ritchies rc10gt]

anybody get the 3 speed transmission yet?i just got one today.i cant figure out how in the world do i adjust the second gear shift points?the third gear has a slot in it for the wrench but the second gear doesnt. :confused:

[waveracer]

Hey guys, I was just wondering if any of you have tried the MIP clutch kit yet. I burned mine up and want to upgrade a little, so let me know what its like will ya. Thanks

[Jackyl]

Hey guys, I've been breaking my front bumper mounts "peice that mounts to the bulkhead and then to the bumpter, has a tab that fits into the bumper"

I've replaced them before going out and then I notice that they are broke again? I'd like to go aluminum for these parts but I can't find any, The only thing that I can find is that when you buy a bumper from gpm or something like that you get the arms attached to the bumper, They can be removed but they don't sell them seperately.

What do you guys do whatn you break that tab off inside the bumper? Replace the bumper mount?

[ritchies rc10gt]

i wouldnt put the aluminum mounts on it,just something that will bend or break something else.i havent broken one yet,just stripped the screw hole out.


i got the 3 speed in yesterday!you cant adjust the shift point for second unless you take the transmission apart and do it,wich sux.i havent been able to hit 3rd gear yet though.it either flips over,wheelies or i run out of room and have to stop.it wheelies with ease now.if not carefull it will flip over backwards.takes off like a rocket and flys when it hits second.

[Jackyl]

What engine and clutch and clutchbell are you using?

[ritchies rc10gt]

ported stock engine,stock clutch,15Tcb,49Tspur

[losi racer13]

Yay, I just bought a Savage today. Im on the 3rd tank right now. how many tanks do i need to run through it before to start beating on it . heres my breaking in thing, 1. idle and let move a little. 2. same thing. 3. idle and blip the throttle a little. 4. 1/4 throttle. 5. 1/2 throttle for 3 sec. 6. 1/2 throttle and a little bit more. 7. mess with needles and throttle it. is this good?

[ritchies rc10gt]

that sounds ok.if thats the way you like to breakin the engines and fell comfortable with it,it should be fine.

i do my break in this way:let idle for a few minutes,shut it off and put the piston all the way down and let cool completely.i do that 4 times.than i do a tank of easy driving,using between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle.then one tank going easy 1/2 to full throttle.then half a tank of driving hard and then tune it.i did my savage this way in 20-30 degree wheather with no body on it.engine runs perfect.even after the port job it runs perfect.i put about a gallon of 20% through it before the port work and ran 2 gallons of 20% after the porting And now i am almost finished with a gallon of 30%.i use trinity monster horsepower in my engines.i beat the crap out of my engines and they all run perfect.

[losi racer13]

nice i run the same fuel. do u have to lean it out a little more after done breaking in since the factory settings are rich

[ritchies rc10gt]

yes.i actually lean it out a little to keep it running so it will build up some heat in the engine while breaking it in in the cold weather.after breakin is done i usually lean them out till they act like its running out of fuel at full throttle and then richen it up 1/2-3/4 turn.

[losi racer13]

ok im on the 8th tank i leaned it out a little but it still doesnt move do u think i can lean it out more

[losi racer13]

also can i give it throttle for a long time now?

[ritchies rc10gt]

ya you can start leaning it out and going full throttle.you can go full throttle for about 6-10 seconds

[losi racer13]

ok i think i broke it in all the way, do u think by the 11th tank i can hold the throttle longeR

[doesgo]

No, you should never really hold full throttle longer than about 10 seconds, even when fully broken-in.

[losi racer13]

does the 40 series rims and lowprofile tires help stop flipping

[losi racer13]

does anyone know how long the s-25 engine lasts if maintained well

[ritchies rc10gt]

it will last a long time if taken care of,dont run it too lean,dont hold full throttle more than 10 seconds.its a good engine.ive got about 3-4 gallons of fuel through mine.if you want more power from it,read the aticle on porting it.if you feel you can do it without messing the engine up,do it.i did it and man what a diffence.even better with the 3 speed tranny. :D

[losi racer13]

do the bevel gear diffs make a difference in acceleration or are they just more durable then stock

[savagepicco26]

does the 40 series rims and lowprofile tires help stop flipping
depends on the surface you're on, but in general, yes.

[savagepicco26]

do the bevel gear diffs make a difference in acceleration or are they just more durable then stock
more durable. doesn't affect acceleration.

[losi racer13]

what does the ofna linkages do i was reading your post a few pages back and you were saying its a must have.

[losi racer13]

also is porting out the engine hard to do if u have no experiance with it and how much better does the engine perform?

[ritchies rc10gt]

its not hard to port the engine,but if you dont think you can do it DONT do it.one slip with the dremel and the engine is junk,then youll have to rebuild it and try again.i practiced on 5 junk engines before i did mine.it does make a huge difference in the way the engine performs.

[savagepicco26]

what does the ofna linkages do i was reading your post a few pages back and you were saying its a must have.
the linkages take out all the slop in the stock setup. so your throttle response is a lot faster. with the stock setup, the carb was never going full open. with the ofna setup, it would. the brakes are a pain to adjust with the stock setup. with the ofna, it's fast and easy, and the brakes work a lot better with the ofna setup. they're stronger. i raced my savage and after upgrading the linkages, i didn't need the dual disc brake. the stock setup would work just fine.

[losi racer13]

yea the stock is a little hard to setup the brakes but i did it u just need to screw it down alot

[losi racer13]

ok what should i do first to my sacage 25 its completly stock but i installed the cam type servo saver wich helped alot. i was thinking the ofna linkage, dual disk brakes along with the aluminum brake hub, then a tuned pipe

[ritchies rc10gt]

first i would do the 4 gear difs if it isnt already done.get the golden horizons aluminum dif cups when you do the 4 gear difs.put a rechargable battery pack in the truck with the switch with the carge cord,if you havent already.this trucks eats AA batts in no time.also upgrade the steering servo with one with metal gears and alot of torque.my stock servo broke on the 4 tank during break in.im still running the stock linkages with no problem.then get the THS pipe for it.its a little pricey around a 100 bux but well worth it.then do the dual disk brakes,you dont need the aluminum hub with these.they come with a steel hex.if money allows it,get the 3 speed transmission.get the unassembled one and save some money by installing it yourself.its actually very easy to do.take about an hour or less.if you want reverse,put it in,the reverse also works with the 3 speed.other than that the truck really doesnt need much else.ive been beating the crap out of mine since i got it and havent broke much.

when your stock engine finally blows up.i suggest putting the Dynamite MACH .26 in it.its a very nice engine for the money and works well in the savage.my engine is actually blown right now,gotta find the dynamite i have for it so i can play again :D

[mautoys]

:confused: some one have the hpi savage 4.6 big block kit thats tell me
about please?

[losi racer13]

well i bought my 25 and it came with that cam servo saver and the 4 bevel gears. i was thinking about putting them in as soon as i rebuild the diff so its nice a fresh with new gears, also im keeping it frwd only for racing, i was thinking about getting the dual disk brakes but i heard they wore out really fast so im thinking about getting the carbon fiber one, im most likely going to get the 3 speed when it comes out, the tuned pipe im not so sure about i know its a must if u buy an upgraded engine so u get all the oomph out but my neighboors dont like the loudness so i kinda want to keep it quiet. do u know if the pipe on the ss 4.6 is good? my stock servo is still working good but it doesnt turn when i accelerate so that pretty bad. i was thinking about getting a 645mg servo for the steering but i dont know if it has enough torque.

[ritchies rc10gt]

ive had the dual disks in mine since i bought it.ive had the truck a few months.you can wait till you either rebuild or blow the difs to put the four gears in,but get the aluminum housing for them.the dif will be pretty much bullet proof.the 645 is good for it,thats what we run in everything for steering.the THS pipe is actually alot quieter than the stock pipe.it doesnt have that high pitched winey baby sound to it.it has a nice low deep rumble sound to it.the 3 speed is out.i have it in my truck,a friend has it in his and im putting one in another guys truck tonight.

[losi racer13]

what is this ths pipe? who makes it and can u give me a link to the diff housings. do u think the diffs would be fine if i run it stock but slightly modded? like tonight i just bought that performance air filter from hpi and im going to get a tuned pipe soon.

[ritchies rc10gt]

THS tuned pipe: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHEC4&P=ML


aluminum dif cup: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHCA2&P=7

the difs will be fine for a while unless your doing big jumps.even with the 4 gear dif it strips the plastic dif cups.thats why i say get the aluminum dif cups

[losi racer13]

im doing jumps, but i dont want to worry about breaking the stock gears. so if im doing jumps should i change it? The gears come with this grease should i use that or different type grease. i heard something about 5k or somthing. also would these work fine? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYK9&P=M

[losi racer13]

do u think i should replace the cam servo saver with bearing instead of the bushings? or should i just wait till i get a new servo

[doesgo]

DEFINITELY use bearings in the steering posts, regardless of whether you upgrade to a cam-type servo saver. The plastic bushings are bad news, they can really stiffen up on you for no apparent reason.

[losi racer13]

i was just driving my car with the air filter and it seems alot louder. is this normal from a high performance air filter?

[doesgo]

Do you normally drive it without the air filter?

[MT2 owns you]

nah, i think he means that he has driven it with a smaller, less performance airfilter and then got a high performance airfilter.

[losi racer13]

yea what mt2 said. i went from stock to performance

[losi racer13]

does anyone have the new ss pipe?

[harley1874666]

the ribbed pipe or the new polished 4.6 pipe?

[Jackyl]

Has anyoned used a hot bodies .26 "new style out of lsp" engine in their savage? I'm getting one and plan on using 52/16 gearing with it. I'm just trying to get a heads up. I just want more power than what I had with my hyper .21 4p. And of course wheelies :D

[losi racer13]

the new 4.6 polished one

[wrecked]

If you want an extremly fast engine then get a picco .26. You will get huge wheiles<(not spelled right) and amazing top speed with 15tooth clutch bell and 49 tooth sper. did i mention how easy it is to tune? and u can pick one up on ebay brand new for 135 shipped!!! when i got mine i paid 180 at tower!!!
If you get this engine or an engine like this... i highly recomend gettng a 3
shoe aluminum clutch.

Jason

[doesgo]

The Picco .27 is fantastic as well. Amazing low end and it revs really well, too.

[losi racer13]

is the picco 27 faster then the 26?

[savagepicco26]

i would think so. either way, the .26 is discontinued.

[doesgo]

Really seems like it, but it's hard to know for sure.

[losi racer13]

im probably gonna stick to the stock until i get some money for my b day and buy a fantom 27 or a picco 27......anybody know a good racing pipe that isnt as loud as the ribbed one by hpi. i got some neighbors already complaining on the stock pipe lol.

[Needler56]

yea the stock pipe is loud, i have an rd logics one piece, not as loud, took away a little bit from the bottom end speed, but has good high end speed.

[Jackyl]

I would stear clear of the fantom .27 / wasp .28 / team infinity .28 / peak .28 engines they are all junk. Get yourself a HPI K4.6 or a italian engine if your going to drop some change.

I myself and happy with a hot bodies .26 "out of hb lsp" and 16cb/52sg.

[losi racer13]

yea i heard the rd logics have baffles in them. i heard only the 04' fr27's were the only bad ones. i dont know...my friend has one and he sometimes has problems with tuning it and getting it to run right. I'm probably going to shoot for the ss 4.6 pipe but if its loud as the ribbed im not going to get it. anybody have any info on the new hpi pipe?

[Jackyl]

Has anyone tried a pullstart from a hpi k4.6 on the S-.25 hpi engine? Will it work. I like the beef of the pullstart and the extra long cord.

Otherwise does anyone know what the best pullstart to get for a S-25 engine? Or should I just use my rotostart. I don't like the rotostart because it's something else to carry and you have to recharge a battery, and you can gobble up one-way's and not even know it with it. Plus it's just not as nice as far as knowing how your engine is setup either. With a pullstart you can tell when something isn't right, with the rotostart it just chugs away and if something breaks well then spend more money.


Thx.

[wrecked]

Does any one know whre to put the shims on the diff?? and waht is the part # for the shims?

I have a great mod for guys that are using a picco .26 and a roto start. This mod makes it so the hex coneccted to the rod... forgot waht its called :rolleyes: stay all the way in the one way bearing. Get a wheel hex from a nitro tc3 and just put it in the roto start back plate, then put the spring in the hole of the whell hex end into the other hex the roto start connects to and the one way lasts alot longer.

jason

[Jackyl]

Anyone having problems with the diff bearings? The 10x16x5 bearings that go oun the outside of the diff. I keep going through these like butta, I'll put new sets on the front and rear diffs and change the fluid in the diffs and after a few runs they are gone. I'd say if I had to guess like 8 tanks or so. And I have aluminum diff housing "not cups" and aluminum bulkheads both from megatech.

I'm just wondering if anyone else is having this problem?

Also I have the mp mod done to my savage and it seems to be binding I was wondering is the newer hpi unit that was just released better than the ofna mp mod?

[doesgo]

I've only had to replace one of the 10x16x5 diff bearings on my Savage in the 28 months I've owned it. I've heard of people going through bearings faster than me, but only eight tanks? That's terrible. Wish I had a solution for you!

I found the HPI servo saver to have much better fitment than the MP saver, and free travel in both direction from lock to lock. I never had that success with my MP saver, although I must admit I never looked into it far enough to find out why.

[wrecked]

Anyone having problems with the diff bearings? The 10x16x5 bearings that go oun the outside of the diff. I keep going through these like butta, I'll put new sets on the front and rear diffs and change the fluid in the diffs and after a few runs they are gone. I'd say if I had to guess like 8 tanks or so. And I have aluminum diff housing "not cups" and aluminum bulkheads both from megatech.

I'm just wondering if anyone else is having this problem?

Also I have the mp mod done to my savage and it seems to be binding I was wondering is the newer hpi unit that was just released better than the ofna mp mod?

Im haveing the same problem as you!!! :( i ordered everything i need to rebuild the diffs includeing new diff caseing and bulk heads and 8 of those bearings that keep going. I also have the aluminum diff cups with the diff mod done with ofna cross shafts. i use to keep blowing the spider gears but now i keep blowing the ring and pinion due to the bearings from getting loose or braking and throwing off the gear mesh. :mad:

[doesgo]

Seems far-fetched, but....could it have something to do with the aluminum diff cups?

[wrecked]

Seems far-fetched, but....could it have something to do with the aluminum diff cups?

I took the diffs apart the other day and now i think im having problems because of my aluminum diff cups :mad: :mad: . The part that the bearing goes onto is worn causing the bearing to be very loose makeing th ring and pinion gear mesh off.

[Jackyl]

I don't have aluminum diff cups, I just have aluminum bulks and diff housings. I wouldn't go to the aluminum cups because well the plastic ones are just fine, no problems with my spiders and I have the 4 gear done.

So the new HPI setup for steering is better than the MP mod for the savage is it allows full movement lock to lock? I'm using a metal gear servo from a MGT for steering but I had a hitec 8something before and it turned like butter and it was fast. But it got wet and went sizzle... :D

[doesgo]

The HPI does allow full lock-to-lock movement, which for me is an improvement over the MP setup which I admittedly didn't take the time to set up properly so it WOULD go lock to lock.

I've got a couple extras (HPI #87197) on hand if you need one, I'll sell it for $15.99 (cheaper than Tower). :) doesgo@slapmafro.com

[wrecked]

I don't have aluminum diff cups, I just have aluminum bulks and diff housings. I wouldn't go to the aluminum cups because well the plastic ones are just fine, no problems with my spiders and I have the 4 gear done.

So the new HPI setup for steering is better than the MP mod for the savage is it allows full movement lock to lock? I'm using a metal gear servo from a MGT for steering but I had a hitec 8something before and it turned like butter and it was fast. But it got wet and went sizzle... :D

The plastic diff cups on my savage got worn out where the cross pins go alowing accesive play in the spider gears so they kept striping.

[alvinm]

Hi,I just bought a set of hot bodies rtu rims and tires(the large ones with the flames on rubber)Will the savage drivetrain handle minor bashing with these wheels?

[Oldsmaniac]

has anyone modified the s25 engine for the savage or seen one run? i modified mine but haven't reassembled it yet, was curious as to the power increase and such

[Jackyl]

I've done 2 of them so far. and both yield very good results. I noticed snappier low end and it gets to the top end of the power band quicker also. This was in a stock savage .25 with 52/14 gearing. On the initial one I followed the RCCA write up (http://www.rccaraction.com/articles/htpporting_1.asp) on how to do this procedure. And then it's easy and well worth the time if your willing to take it slow read through the instructions and try to understand what your doing. Basic understanding of 2 stroke principles is a good start.

[Oldsmaniac]

the only thing i noticed that was wrong in the instructions for the modification was the height of the cutout on the piston , if you go .375 high you will cut into the wristpin crosshole, i think mine was about .19 high, working at a machine shop is handy also, also i have installed the 3 speed tranny, that made a difference also

[67f100StPro]

I ported mine when the article came out and it's like night and day. Ported the truck will flip on its lid everytime I nailed the throttle. Stock it would barely lift the inside front tire in a turn. Unfortunatly the crank broke last week so it has been out of action. I had almost 2 gals through it after the porting job. But I did buy a new crank from eBay for $6.50. Looking at the broken crank I saw a nick at the piston side of the port where the dremel could have slipped. This is prob where it started to break so when you do yours, be very careful not to get any nicks anywhere.

[Oldsmaniac]

yea i took it slow but with the dremel it is very easy for it to snag and try to kick on ya, can't wait to put it back together and try er out, thanks for the info

[Jackyl]

I'm looking at upgrading the driveshafts that go from the trans to the diffs. I don't like the cv style that mip cv's use. I like the U-joint style like this.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/images/gpm_tsav1037.jpg

But these are titanium and 30.99 and dinball. and on ebay you can pick up Stainless Steel ones for 24.99. They also make driveshafts from the diffs to the wheels like this.

but I've heard that titanium wears faster than stainless is this true? is there any advantage over the SS one's? Does anyone have this style on their savage?

I had these on my NMT when I had it and I like them very much. They aren't rebuildable but they aren't as prone to wear problems like the cv style shafts.

Let me know I need a rear driveshaft to get my savage back up but I want to make sure that these are worth the money or just get the SS ones?

[Oldsmaniac]

titanium is lighter than stainless, stainless is about as hard as they come though, doubt the weight difference is that much being as small as they are, seems to me the crosspins would be what would wear out the most, they are most likely hardened

[Jackyl]

So the SS ones would be the ones to get then ?

[Oldsmaniac]

personally i would probably buy the ss ones

[Archyman]

Hello all...I got my Savage up for auction on e-bay ....check it out

[astainback]

Ok, I just mailed off my tmaxx and miniT to trade for a Savage25 (NIB).
The guy that I am trading with is supposed to send a ribbed pipe and a motorsaver with it. Is there anything else I need to look at getting soon to make sure that it is bomb proof??
The main reason that I gave up my tmaxx (and I had it right...) is the dumb things that break drove me crazy.
I want to be able to jump it for hours at the time!!
haha

I know it is tough stock. I want it to be tougher!! Also, does the .25 make the savage wheelie??

thanks,
adrian

[Archyman]

Ok, I just mailed off my tmaxx and miniT to trade for a Savage25 (NIB).
The guy that I am trading with is supposed to send a ribbed pipe and a motorsaver with it. Is there anything else I need to look at getting soon to make sure that it is bomb proof??
The main reason that I gave up my tmaxx (and I had it right...) is the dumb things that break drove me crazy.
I want to be able to jump it for hours at the time!!
haha

I know it is tough stock. I want it to be tougher!! Also, does the .25 make the savage wheelie??

thanks,
adrian
Hey I would get a good 3ch. fm radio and a fail safe if not those I would at least get a failsafe...(Dynamite,Venom) their usually under 35.00

[Jackyl]

Yes, the .25 will make your savage wheelie. But it's not on demand you'll have to work it a bit to get it up. If your port it then It gets easier. If you want wheelies on demand. 14/52 gearing and smaller tire diameter will do the trick.

[astainback]

Hey I would get a good 3ch. fm radio and a fail safe if not those I would at least get a failsafe...(Dynamite,Venom) their usually under 35.00


I already got the XS3pro the other day. I am going to set it up for the mgt and Ntc3 first. I need to get another rx for the savage.. and even another for the buggy that I plan to get sometime soon.

I know a failsafe would be smart.. but I was kindof fishing for what parts break frequently. I want to know what I will probably break when jumping it.

thanks,
adrian

[Archyman]

I already got the XS3pro the other day. I am going to set it up for the mgt and Ntc3 first. I need to get another rx for the savage.. and even another for the buggy that I plan to get sometime soon.

I know a failsafe would be smart.. but I was kindof fishing for what parts break frequently. I want to know what I will probably break when jumping it.

thanks,
adrian
Hey Adrian,
maybe some arms or front/rear bulk heads....not sure havent really broke anything yet...their pretty tuff....maybe front/rear bumper...body mounts

[Jackyl]

Either plastic or aluminum of the following in your pit box will save you a few swear words in the end :D

bulkheads
Uprights
Knuckles
wheel nuts "both sides, they are different"
a driveshaft from diff to wheel, or 2.
put handles on the body clips
take out the screws that hoold the skidplate to the blukhead mounts and put in larger diameter ones. the little plastic that is in the bumper will break off and your skid plate will be loose then.
upper and lower A-arms might help.

And by all means upgrad to titanium hinge pins and tierods.

Thats about it. That right there will keep you bashin' for awhile. That is about the only things that I have done to my savage other than 4 spyder mod, and mp steering mod. and a high torque servo. I also have the xs3-pro great radio and I love the rs310 over the larger 300.

Good luck with it man.

[doesgo]

I want to know what I will probably break when jumping it.

What will probably break? NOTHING! :)

But if you're dying to fortify your parts box I'd follow along with what Jackyl said. Personally I've been bashing my Savage for well over two years, and bashing HARD, and never broken an A-arm, upper arm, bulkhead, or bumper.

I'd concentrate on the 4-gear diff mod first (before even driving it), then the OFNA MP or HPI steering servo saver mod along with a stronger steering servo (as long as it's apart for the diff mod), turn the left rear upper shock bolt around so the head of it is it toward the fuel tank, and make sure you have some extra wheel nuts, uprights, and dogbones on hand. Then complete the rest of Jackyl's list as you have time and money available.

Have fun!

[pbradley_1]

I just bought my savage off Ebay. It was one of the used but well maintained ones that has a bunch of broken parts and rust. I was a little ticked but forced me to strip it to nothing and rebuild. A great experience as many of you know. Got it started up for the first time last night and it seems amazing. I'm really looking forward to making it fly. I had a few questions.
1. I switched over to one of the stainless steel screw kits. Has anyone else done this and as they are machine verses corse threaded, has anyone had any trouble with anything breaking loose?
2. I have read the entire 34 page thread and have read little content on CVDs for the wheels. Should I stick with drive cups and dog bones or would the CVDs be a good upgrade?
3. Boy! Does that stock steering stink!! I have a JR Z590 metal gear servo for my steering and put in the ballbearings as well but it still is crap. I have the cam type HPI fix and will put it in very soon. Any other thoughts steering fixes or should that take care of everything?
4. I know a lot of you have upgraded your throttle linkage. What were the main annoyances that caused this? I am playing with diffirent lengths of rubber tubing to engage the brakes but it seems, with the spring/roll bar mod, that is the only problem.

This is an amazing truck. My friend has a tmaxx and that thing can't climb anything. I can creep up to a big branch or other obstacle in the gully by my house and it will climb right over. It truly is a monster!!

Please share any other tips you may have that haven't been posted. Thanks.

[doesgo]

1) I'm not a fan of stainless steel screws since they're rather weak (not stronger than mild steel, contrary to what many believe), but as for the machine threads go I've had BETTER luck with them than the coarse-threaded "wood" screws. I'm in the process of converting all my vehicles over to machine thread.
2) CVDs are a nice upgrade, but unless you're racing and need the utmost in efficiency I'd skip it. Some people don't care for dogbones but I've had great success with mine and don't have any binding issues at all. I'm sure you'll get varying opinions on this one.
3) With a good servo and the saver upgrade you should be fine with the steering.
4) I had good luck with my stock throttle/brake linkage and with a decent servo I could flip the truck over with the brakes. The only think I don't like about the stock linkage is the stupid servo-mounted saver and the lack of adjustability, therefore I did the mod.

Glad you're liking the truck, pbradley! I share your exuberance for the Savage. With a different truck I was climbing in a gravel pit and had to get major speed at the bottom of the hill to make it up, but with the Savage I could start from a dead stop at the bottom of the hill and still make it up with no problems! Fun stuff.

[pbradley_1]

I just bought my savage off Ebay. It was one of the used but well maintained ones that has a bunch of broken parts and rust. I was a little ticked but forced me to strip it to nothing and rebuild. A great experience as many of you know. Got it started up for the first time last night and it seems amazing. I'm really looking forward to making it fly. I had a few questions.
1. I switched over to one of the stainless steel screw kits. Has anyone else done this and as they are machine verses corse threaded, has anyone had any trouble with anything breaking loose?
2. I have read the entire 34 page thread and have read little content on CVDs for the wheels. Should I stick with drive cups and dog bones or would the CVDs be a good upgrade?
3. Boy! Does that stock steering stink!! I have a JR Z590 metal gear servo for my steering and put in the ballbearings as well but it still is crap. I have the cam type HPI fix and will put it in very soon. Any other thoughts steering fixes or should that take care of everything?
4. I know a lot of you have upgraded your throttle linkage. What were the main annoyances that caused this? I am playing with diffirent lengths of rubber tubing to engage the brakes but it seems, with the spring/roll bar mod, that is the only problem.

This is an amazing truck. My friend has a tmaxx and that thing can't climb anything. I can creep up to a big branch or other obstacle in the gully by my house and it will climb right over. It truly is a monster!!

Please share any other tips you may have that haven't been posted. Thanks.

[ritchies rc10gt]

well guys i got a little bored last night at about 2:30 AM i decided to put an OS 4 stroke engine in my savagei just got the linkage on it a few minutes ago and fired it up.i still need to get the exhaust done but it will run till half tank and dies.it definately isnt gonna win any speed contests.but it sounds cool though!! :D sounds like a lawnmower running.id post some pictures of it if icould figure out how to shrink the file size so it will fit.

[doesgo]

Sounds cool, ritchies! If you want, you can e-mail me the file and I'll resize it and post it for you, or just send it back resized. doesgo@slapmafro.com

[Oldsmaniac]

i would definitely put a failsafe on, mine took off across a field and wedged against a tree and burnt up the spur gear, i bought a failsafe and a hardened spur gear-clutch bell combo, then i ported the s25 engine, what a difference, if you have any mechanical ability and slight machining knowledge or common sense will get you by i would recommend the modification, plus the 3 speed tranny is sweet too, happy bashing

[doesgo]

Here are ritchies rc10gt's 4-stroke Savage pics...

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/4stroke3.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/4stroke1.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/4stroke2.jpg

[ritchies rc10gt]

thanx for posting the pics for me :D

[harley1874666]

how much power is in that 4 stroke and what did it take to get it in there?

[ritchies rc10gt]

its .5HP@17,000 rpm, :eek: .no wonder it was slow,lmao!!i kinda went about putting it in the wrong way.i used the mounts for the .46 truckzilla kit.i had to cut the back of them off and redrill and tap the motor mount screws.i think i couldve used the purple HPI mounts but not sure on that.i also had to drill a collet to fit on the crank as i didnt have one.everything else was simple,bent my own linkage,raised the body mounts so an air filter would fit.i took it out and put the mach .26 back in it for now.i gotta find the exhaust header for it and try it again.i did it cuz it was different and looked,sounded cool.

forgot to mention that i needed the extended chassis for it to fit.i wanted the longer chassis anyways cuz the it makes the truck handle and jump alot better.so i figured since i had it i would try to stick the 4 stroke in it.

[ritchies rc10gt]

ok lets see if these pictures work

[ritchies rc10gt]

cool,i figured it out! :D heres a picture of my savage with the elcamino body

[ritchies rc10gt]

heres a picture of my bunny going for a ride :D .

[ritchies rc10gt]

heres one of the bunny checkin out the wifes savage

[ritchies rc10gt]

ok now that i got the file size part figured out,how do i get it to show the picture in the full post like doesgo did with my other pictures?

[wrecked]

I just got done with a complete rebuild with my savage and im having a problem now. when i first startded driveing my savage after the rebuild, every thing was fine for the first couple of days but after that my tranny started acting up. I put the heavy duty second speed gear in there if that has any thing to do with it but... heres the problem im having. I take off and it takes off fine and then it shifts fine, then i slow down and try to go but my engine just revves. I think its geting stuck between first and second. after i let it idle or give it a little gas for like 2 or 3 seconds it lanches foward so it went back in first gear. this keeps happening now and i cant figure out wats causeing it!! has this happened to any one here? any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jason

[Oldsmaniac]

if all was good before i would look at the tranny, never had that happen before, but i never tore my tranny apart either but i would check the tranny out first

[ritchies rc10gt]

do you have reverse installed?i had a problem with my reverse module just decided to switch on its own.the servo for it some how stipped and was causing this.it got stuck between forward and reverse a few times till it finall shattered the middle gear in the module.

[Needler56]

how do i set the 3rd channel on the m8 for the savage reverse module?

[wrecked]

do you have reverse installed?i had a problem with my reverse module just decided to switch on its own.the servo for it some how stipped and was causing this.it got stuck between forward and reverse a few times till it finall shattered the middle gear in the module.


no, i dont have reverse installed...

[RenHoek]

ok now that i got the file size part figured out,how do i get it to show the picture in the full post like doesgo did with my other pictures?

- Go over to www.photobucket.com and create a (free) account.
- Create a sub-folder/album on that site and upload your pix there. They'll auto-resize the pix if they're bigger than 250KB, so no worries. RCZ restricts attachments to 55K (or so), so they're smaller than PBucket's.
- In your reply here, copy/paste the IMG link for the desired pix from PBucket's site.
- Hit the Preview Post button to make sure it works.
- That's all! :)

That'll work until you move/delete the pix from PhotoBucket. There are other ways/sites to use, but that works for me.

-RenHoek

[ritchies rc10gt]

made a mistake

try this: Click here to watch savage-backflip. (http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=savage-backflip.)

it takes a minute for it to load,when the play arrow turns dark it should start plaing,if not click the arrow and it will play

[pbradley_1]

Very nice!! I'm still learning how to control the mid-air attitude. I did several endos this weekend trying to learn how to jump. Not sure what other's opinions are but I think they have the best bumper design I have seen. It takes a ton of punishment without breaking. I was sticking to six foot and under jumps but still you would think with the weight of this truck that it would cause something to break with a full front end hit but it would flip a few times, land on its wheels and keep on going. Amazing work of engineering!!

[doesgo]

I agree, pbradley! I jumped my Savage in such a way that it came down from approximately 20-25 feet up and landed square on its nose.....no damage whatsoever. I LOVE that! :)

[ritchies rc10gt]

i had some video of it landing on its nose and rear end from that jump but somehow i managed to tape over it when i recorded the burnout from my diesel pickup

[ritchies rc10gt]

Click here to watch PSD-burnout (http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=PSD-burnout)

Click here to watch smokin-PSD (http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=smokin-PSD)

you guys can check out the vids of my pickup if youd like

[pbradley_1]

rc10gt, I notice you are also on the NTC3. What do you think of the construction differences between HPI and AE? The main difference I am noticing are the screws and the planetary diffs. Any others?

[ritchies rc10gt]

i like HPIs plastic parts,they take a beating and hold up well.in the time ive had my savage ive only broke 1 arm.my rc10gt breaks a few arms everytime i run it,the NTC3 breaks steering knuckles all the time.AEs cars/trucks are more for people that know how to drive,HPIs are good for bashers or racers.i just picked up a practicly new RS4 SS for $50.00.im gonna see how well that holds up to me,ive also got an MT-2 wich is pretty good,broke 1 arm on that so far.i have a nitro rush also.everytime i ran it it would bend the chassis.it was my first R/C.i never really liked hpi cuz of that truck.they kept telling me the chassis bent cuz of something i was doing :rolleyes: .i gave them the idea of a nice thick engine mount like the rc10 has and i see they listened.i havent tried it yet but i am in the process of putting that truck back together to see how it is.only plastic part i broke on it was a shock tower.

the one thing that i dont like about HPI is that they make everything so freekin hard to work on!!!the radio box on the savage is the worst idea ive ever seen.whoever designed that should have been fired!!

[wrecked]

IM SO PISSED OFF!!! :mad: I went to the hobby shop and told the guy that worked thier my problem with my tranny and he told me to get the one way bearing hub that goes into the first speed gear. so i put it in and the next day after school, i tried it out and it ran awsome and shifted great and never got stuck between first and second!!! :D So then I went to the side of my house and was driveing it around in the detention bassein for like 5 minutes. then my truck stoped right in its traks... so im like *** and walk over. i shut it off and try to roll it on the ground but the wheels are locked up. so i walked back to my patio and examin the truck to figure out was wrong and discovered THE RUBBER PLUG THAT STICKS ON THE TRANSMISSION FELL OFF :mad: :mad: :mad: I looked through the hole and saw missin teeth on the gears :mad:. So, once again i take the truck apart and then the transmission and see every one of my transmission gears was efed up. And i just put in the heavy duty second speed gear in the plastic gear that it comes with got messed up. and i dont think they sell them indivisually so i have to buy another heavy duty second gear up grade. Im not exactly mr money baggs so my car is going to be down for a while.

[ritchies rc10gt]

put your stock gears back in it if you still have them.this is also the perfect time to upgrade to the 3 speed tranny.

[ritchies rc10gt]

heres 2 videos of my savage and a friends savage killing a nitro RS4 3SS.each video is 10 minutes long so be patient,its worth the wait :D

Click here to watch savage-bash (http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=savage-bash)

Click here to watch savage-bash-2 (http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=savage-bash-2)

[ritchies rc10gt]

the savage with the red el camino body is mine and im the guy in the black shirt with white writing

[losi racer13]

i was thinking about getting the charger body. my friend has it and it looks nice. i was just wondering if it is strong

[losi racer13]

oh yea does anyone know why my front diff keeps going out, i installed the 4 gear conversion and only my front goes out. i heard i should buy aluminum diff cases because the plastic ones flex.is that the reason my diff keeps going out on me...because it flexes?

[pbradley_1]

Why'd you tear apart the RS4?

[doesgo]

What do you have for brakes and throttle/brake servo, losi racer13? Sometimes super-strong brakes can tear apart a front diff.

[richkay228]

I want to know what I will probably break when jumping it.




What will probably break? NOTHING!

But if you're dying to fortify your parts box I'd follow along with what Jackyl said. Personally I've been bashing my Savage for well over two years, and bashing HARD, and never broken an A-arm, upper arm, bulkhead, or bumper.

I'd concentrate on the 4-gear diff mod first (before even driving it), then the OFNA MP or HPI steering servo saver mod along with a stronger steering servo (as long as it's apart for the diff mod), turn the left rear upper shock bolt around so the head of it is it toward the fuel tank, and make sure you have some extra wheel nuts, uprights, and dogbones on hand. Then complete the rest of Jackyl's list as you have time and money available.

Have fun!





Sorry,
Have to disagree, even the bullitproof Savage will break. I have 2 Savages, and beat the living bag out of them, and while they are amazingly tough there are a few components prone to breakage: Plastic adj upper arms, I don't use these anymore I've snapped 3 of them (I prefer the solid ones). Shock shafts, they will bend upon a hard airborn Tbone hit, and if you like HUGE air you will blow the shock eyelet mount ends right off. Stock Savage wheels, the plastic hex recess will blow apart with heavy impacts/jumps. Threaded turnbuckles, iv'e bent mine many times, but no big deal, just bend them back.
Rich

[ritchies rc10gt]

Why'd you tear apart the RS4?

cuz it was nothing but a 4 day headache trying to straighten out the previous owners mess to get it running and driving.and then rerouting the fuel line 10 times to keep it from getting caught in the gears.



for big air jumps try not to land upside down i bent three of the main chassis plates under the engine.i broke one arm and a few dogbones.thats about it.stock a few body mounts also

the el camino body is pretty tough so the charger should be good also.i have both but havent painted or run the charger yet.and believe it or not the blowers and bumpers do stay on.

to help the stripping difs.get the aluminum diff cups.i have those and the gearboxs in aluminum in my savage.

[pbradley_1]

Can someone give me some info on diff fluid? First, the Savage diffs are sealed since they have the gasket so you can put fluid in them without making a mess, right? Second, how full do you fill them with fluid? Third, What weights do you recommend for me? I mainly bash around the woods around my house. I don't have any means to race (no track) so I really do fairly low speed rock, hill, and whatnot climbing.
On a seperate note, my slipper pad got pretty glazed the other day. I believe the nut was a little loose and once it started spinning, it just wouldn't hold anymore. I took it off and took off all the glazing with steel wool (was afraid the sand paper would wear through the pad) and reassembled to factory suggested one/half turn back off on the clutch nut. I haven't run it again since but any thoughts? Should I tighten the nut to 1/4 turn out? I worry that the nylon insert maybe wearing out so I thought about putting some thread-lock on. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.

[doesgo]

1) Yes you can fill them.
2) Remove the four screws retaining the ring gear and separate it from the diff case. Fill case with fluid up to a level even with the spider gear cross shafts. Replace ring gear.
3) For bashing it doesn't matter all that much, but I would tend to go thicker for a basher than a racer. Probably around 10,000 up front and 5,000 in the rear, maybe thicker for your low-speed stuff.

The nylon insert can wear out, but generally not after only a couple installations. That said, threadlock won't hurt. If you're confident the nut was a half-turn back from locked when the slipper slipped, I'd tighten it down to 1/4 and keep an eye on it. You'll be putting more strain on your spur gear, but it might be a good balance between slippage and potential spur damage. If it still slips, I'd suggest buying another spur gear (they come with a new pad) since they're only $4.

[pbradley_1]

So you wouldn't just squirt it in through the set screw hole in the side of the case?

[doesgo]

You certainly could do that, I'm not sure how you'd know when you had the proper amount in there, though.

[astainback]

Why does the rtr RX come with such a long antenna wire?? Should I cut it??

I emailed HPI, but no one ever emailed me back.

I plan on switching it over to my JR xs3pro soon, but until then, I am going to stick with the stock radio.

Any help would be appreciated.

[doesgo]

No, never cut an antenna wire! They're the length they are for a reason, despite the fact that some are longer than others.

[astainback]

Well this wire is long enough to get wrapped around the rear axels!!!

[doesgo]

Don't let it flop around, wrap it multiple times around the antenna mast and secure it with shrink tubing or a bit of fuel line.

[astainback]

My friend recently got one as well, and he cut his. I watched him wrap it before he cut it, and it was hilarious. I guess I am just not used to wire that long.

[doesgo]

No, me either. I was amazed when I first saw the length of that wire!

[astainback]

I called HPI, and they said do not cut the wire, it will void warranty. I am glad I didn't cut mine.. but that doesn't make a lot of sense to me.. what if I had a high end rx on there?? Is my warranty voided because I took it off???

dumb...

[LandSharkGT]

You guys were'n t kidding about the antenna! WOW! massively long!

[wheeleze]

I called HPI, and they said do not cut the wire, it will void warranty. I am glad I didn't cut mine.. but that doesn't make a lot of sense to me.. what if I had a high end rx on there?? Is my warranty voided because I took it off???

dumb...


Your warrenty won't be voided if you change your receiver, only if you cut the factory antenna. From what I've learned in physics, the length of the antenna has to be directly proprotional to the length of the wave that corrisponds to the frequency of the transmitter for optimum performance. So, any cutting on your antenna will decrease performance unless you know exactly how long a 27MHz wave is, even then there is still plenty of room for human error when dealing with micrometers.

[Salica]

I have been reading that cutting the end of tires will help handling. Is this true even for the savage stock tires. have any of you tried cutting the edges out? I am curious to know if anyone has done it. did it help?

[doesgo]

I did it on my Pro-Line Mulchers and it helped reduce traction rolls. I don't think, however, that the tread pattern on the stock Savage tire is such that trimming the edges off will help in that way.

[Needler56]

what's the shock oil wt for the stock shocks?

[astainback]

Sorry... double post...

thanks,
adrian

[astainback]

It was the Savage's first weekend...

I did the FOC conversion on my MGT this past week, so I wanted to try that out first. It was insane.. It helped so much. I forgot to add a little ARO to the engine (the Savage engine.. the .25) before trying to crank it. I felt like I couldn't prime it very well, then of course I flooded it. After taking out the plug (by the way.. what plug do you guys recommend.. i use the OS #8 in everything else) and turning it over to drain the fuel, it started. It would not idle. I did the leave the Rx and Tx off and adjust by hand.. but the throttle return spring was pulling it back, and I didn't care to remove it.

I leaned out the idle screw a tad, and it helped. I finally got through the 1st tank. 2nd tank was a little wishy-washy, but I got through it. I waited until the next morning to do the rest of the breakin. It was running like crap of course, but I got through 2 more tanks.

Then I started tuning. It was definately faster than I thought it would be. In fact, i got a pretty good tuning going after a few minutes of HSN and LSN adjustments.

After letting the engine cool, I started it on the second non-breakin tank. It ran pretty bad. I had to lean the idle again to start it, and lean the HSN for it to run (not as good) closer to where it was before. The truck ran OK. The 3rd tank was great, and the 4th was groggy again.

I was giving plenty of cool down time, and careful to try not to get it too hot. I like running everything a little on the rich side.

I already have the MotorSavor air filter, and I am getting (part of the deal when I got this truck, and yes it is new) the hpi ribbed pipe.

Any suggestions or experiences on tuning, holding a tune, or anything about that engine would be nice. I have gone back and read alot, but it is alot, and maybe it should be up again.

Oh, and as I was taking off the top foam element, some dirt fell down in the neck of the carb. 2 chunks. I got the first one, but the second got down in there. Any suggests on that one??

thanks,
adrian

[savagepicco26]

Your warrenty won't be voided if you change your receiver, only if you cut the factory antenna. From what I've learned in physics, the length of the antenna has to be directly proprotional to the length of the wave that corrisponds to the frequency of the transmitter for optimum performance.
that's correct. this is also why a 75MHz receiver will have a shorter antenna wire.

[savagepicco26]

Oh, and as I was taking off the top foam element, some dirt fell down in the neck of the carb. 2 chunks. I got the first one, but the second got down in there. Any suggests on that one??

thanks,
adrian
DON'T START IT AGAIN!!!!!!! at least untill you clean the engine. if you do, you'll tear up the motor. even one tiny grain of sand is enough to reek havoc on one of these engines. to clean it, you need to totally disassemble the motor. take the carb off, take the head and button off, take the backplate off and cleanout the entire inside. i'm not sure what HPI recommends as a cleaner for this, but check with them. if you run that motor without cleaning it, it will never run right again. probably will never hold a tune either.

[pbradley_1]

I believe it is 10wt for the shocks. You might want to think about going heavier though. I think many of the people on here run between 20wt and 35wt. I run 40 and am happy with it.

[savagepicco26]

i ran 35wt in my shocks for bashing and racing.

[savagepicco26]

diffs were 7000wt in front and 3000wt in the rear.

[doesgo]

astainback, these engines are quite simple and easy to disassemble, and as savagepicco26 said, you really should do it to rid it of the dirt. Not worth the risk!

Unless they've made a running change, the stock oil in the Savage is quite thick and non-silicone. I've found I prefer 20wt shock oil for bashing, it seems the thicker stuff (I ran 35wt for quite some time) increases the chances of bending shock shafts when landing huge jumps. but it's all personal preference...

[richkay228]

what's the shock oil wt for the stock shocks?


Depends a lot on what you want to do with your truck. I run 20wt if I do hard fast whoops, bigger jumps. If you backyard bash in grass, high speed cornering, and street running than go with 30wt fluid. Shock fluid is cheap, try a few different #'s to see exactly what you prefer. One fact, the thicker the fluid, the more damage will be had to shock seals and shafts upon big jump landings. Whatever you do DO NOT FILL SHOCKS WITH AUTO ENGINE OIL, VERY THICK, AND INCONSISTANT DAMPENING! Engine oil will also even get thicker as outside air temps get colder. Silicone fluid is imperveious to cold and heat.
Rich

[Needler56]

my particular situation is that i picked up some integy piggyback shocks msr4 version 2's (with the 3.5mm shafts) and after the first run, one shaft bent. since the stock shocks worked so well, i wanted replicate as much as possible the set up (just because i spent so much on these piggies).

i took the advice of the instructions and added 25wt oil. the only thing i can think of is that the shafts aren't strong enough, i didn't bleed the shocks correctly, or oil is too thick. one thing i did notice is that the shaft was bent at the top and at that point in the shock, there's a little bind or stick feeling. loosening the cap free'd up the shaft being squeezed by the o ring so tightly and i don't know if this is normal?

what i'm gonna try is a lighter wt, add the three hole spacer, and loosen that part up a little.

what do you guys think? any advice is appreciated

[astainback]

astainback, these engines are quite simple and easy to disassemble, and as savagepicco26 said, you really should do it to rid it of the dirt. Not worth the risk!




Just out of curiosity, do you guys think I could squirt some fule straight into the carb and flush the little piece of dirt out?
All I would have to do to re-lube the engine is add some ARO afterwards..

[astainback]

What do you guys recommend for center/full skidplates??
I mostly want one to keep the truck clean and free of rocks.
I think I have seen a picture of one with a plastic center skid, but I am not sure.

[wheeleze]

Needler56: I was thinking of getting the msr5's for my savage just for the 3.5mm shafts... Now, I'm not so sure. How many shafts have you bent? Could it have been rocks or other obstacles from bashing?

Personally, I'd agree with doesgo with regards to the 20 wt in your aluminum shocks. As for the stock, I'd recommend 10-20 and be careful not to overfill so you don't keep blowing caps.

astainback: I like to use the OS A5 in my .25. Not too hot...

[wheeleze]

Just out of curiosity, do you guys think I could squirt some fule straight into the carb and flush the little piece of dirt out?
All I would have to do to re-lube the engine is add some ARO afterwards..

I wouldn't risk it. If your worried about taking it apart, see if your hobby shop'll do it. The damage to your crankshaft and block will cause a rush of airleaks and a motor that you thought was running at a cool 240 will flame out at 330. The next thing you'll know is that you've just spent a couple hundred bucks on a paper weight. Not like I've done it before :rolleyes:

Besides, how cool is it to say you know how to tear down, port & clean an engine operating in excess of 30K rpm's? Notice i said port ;)

[badboy2]

or u can fill up a small bucket with nitro and submerge the engine with out pullstart head and carb ..then clean it next day with tootbrush or compressor

[wheeleze]

What do you guys recommend for center/full skidplates??
I mostly want one to keep the truck clean and free of rocks.
I think I have seen a picture of one with a plastic center skid, but I am not sure.

Depends on your usage. If your racing on a smooth, gravel free track then a plastic one might do the trick. I'm a basher, so I went with GPM. They make a SOLID skid. It can take some real punishment, but it is quite heavy. there are some nice lighter ones available on eBay, but after seeing what the gravel does to my chassis...

[savagepicco26]

Just out of curiosity, do you guys think I could squirt some fule straight into the carb and flush the little piece of dirt out?

NO! you need to disassemble the engine.

[savagepicco26]

What do you guys recommend for center/full skidplates??
I mostly want one to keep the truck clean and free of rocks.
I think I have seen a picture of one with a plastic center skid, but I am not sure.
i never ran one. no need to IMO.

[doesgo]

I'm with savagepicco26, again. I've never run a center skid in my 2.5 years of Savage ownership and never really found a need to do so.

[Needler56]

Needler56: I was thinking of getting the msr5's for my savage just for the 3.5mm shafts... Now, I'm not so sure. How many shafts have you bent? Could it have been rocks or other obstacles from bashing?

Personally, I'd agree with doesgo with regards to the 20 wt in your aluminum shocks. As for the stock, I'd recommend 10-20 and be careful not to overfill so you don't keep blowing caps.

astainback: I like to use the OS A5 in my .25. Not too hot...

before i bought mine, i read that the msr4's with the 3mm shafts would bend and that owners would replace them with the hpi shafts having no problems after that. then i found out that they came out with version 2's with the 3.5mm shafts and the msr5's as their solution. so i assumed that was the permanent fix.

then when i ran mine, just rolling around in the dirt, couple small jumps, found that the very front passenger side shock shaft bent.

did more reading on the net and found that people were bending the 3.5mm shafts as well.

i rebuilt all the shocks with rebound (because the instructions don't include any info about rebound and integy themselves say that there isn't supposed to be rebound), went from 25wt to 15wt, and added the three hole piston. now i haven't ran it, but i tossed it around on the pavement, dropped it, etc and they seem fine.

the reason why i added rebound is because the monster gt piggies are supposed to have rebound and i assumed same fundamentals right? all other onroad shocks i've ever built had rebound and are monster trucks shocks supposed to have rebound as well?

the only thing i can think about is that the shafts are not strong enough or i used too heavy of a weight in the first place, or by some freaky coincidence, me and everyone else on the net assembled the shocks wrong. i do know that from experience and reading on the net, that the stock shocks work very well because they are plastic and have a lot of flex. i think that since the the piggies are aluminum, the weakest part of the shock will take the stress?

its totally up to you. i'll test and tune for a bit and i can let you know. if more shafts bend then i plan on putting back the stock shocks and putting the piggies on the side for the meantime since i spent so much money on them. if theres a compatible shaft out there thats stronger (does anyone know if the new hpi shafts are 3.5mm?) then i might opt for that. if my serpent 950 1/8 nitro on road comes before i run the savage, i'm probably not going to see the savage for a while lol

hope this helps

[pbradley_1]

You've probably already thought of this but what about using the titanium or maybe unobtanium shafts instead of steel?

[Needler56]

You've probably already thought of this but what about using the titanium or maybe unobtanium shafts instead of steel?

you know, that was the first thing i asked the lhs, that if they had, or knew of, a titanium shaft of another brand that would fit. they didn't know and i don't see any on tower. i was wondering if the new hpi aluminum shock shafts are 3.5mm. better yet, has anyone had any experience on the new hpi savage shocks or know anything about them?

[insane]

does anyone have problems with roto start stripping gears any fixes to make it stronger

[savagepicco26]

does anyone have problems with roto start stripping gears any fixes to make it stronger
never stripped the gears in the roto start. i broke several one-way bearings though.

[pbradley_1]

Maybe you could try LST titanium shock shafts. Losi sells them as well as HR. I can't find specs for the Losi shaft anywhere but it looks similar. :) Just a thought. Or you could go to LST shocks. I like my stock Savage plastic ones. You can get a full set (8) from Ebay for less than $20 so even if you bend one a week, you aren't set back too much.

[Needler56]

i found it harder to bleed my savage shocks with 15 wt oil (seems to trap a lot of air) than 25 wt oil. why is that?

[astainback]

Does anyone on here run the ribbed pipe on the savage??

[harley1874666]

i ran it on my savvy with the .25 engine. not a bad pipe at all, especially since you can pick em up used dirt cheap.

[wheeleze]

i ran it on my savvy with the .25 engine. not a bad pipe at all, especially since you can pick em up used dirt cheap.

I agree. You can't beat the price.

[astainback]

Ok, I my friend Anthony caught my savage on video doing a frontflip. It is awesome.
But, when I tried right after the frontflip that I made on the first try, I busted an attempt at a backflip twice and blew a shock.

What are the best aluminum shocks for the money??
Are HPI's threaded shocks out already?? I can't find them on stormer or tower.
I saw the hotbodies shocks, and I like the price on those.. but what is up with the hpi's??

thanks,
adrian

[astainback]

Sorry, one more question.

I had the Savage tuned perfectly when I first started out Saturday.

My truck leans out really bad after it runs for a while.

I went from 240 degrees to 318 in a half a tank.

I read about the new era mod.. but is there a better way, or another way to do this without sacrificing too much run time?

thanks,
adrian

[astainback]

Would it be to my advantage to put some better tires/rims on the savage??
The savage tires have a lot of flex to them, and i was thinking about getting some smaller tmaxx sized ones.

What shock oil weight do you guys use?? I called HPI, and they don't recommend anything over 25. The guy I talked to uses 10 and 15. I was going to order a couple of bottles of 15. Let me know.

adrian

[ritchies rc10gt]

dont waste your money on the aluminum shocks as they will bend.its a waste.just go on ebay and pick up a couple sets of the stock shocks.you can get a set of 8 for around 20.00.if you broke a stock shock you will kill the aluminum ones as well.i go through probably 4 shocks a day when im out bashing the crap out of mine.

i use 20 wieght shock oil.thinking about going lighter though,just to see how it does

get the proline offset tmaxx wheels and losi zombie maxx tires.the rims will widen the truck a little to help prevent rollovers while turning.the zombie maxx tires hook up great on just about any surface and last forever even on pavement

[harley1874666]

15 is the stock oil wieght. the aluminum hpi shocks use the same shock shafts as the stockers so they'll stand up better but i still wouldn't buy em, that's my personal preference. i buy lots of stocks on the bay and just switch em out if i bend a shaft.

as far as tires go i have the 23mm whell system with hd rims and moab tires.

[richkay228]

15 is the stock oil wieght. the aluminum hpi shocks use the same shock shafts as the stockers so they'll stand up better but i still wouldn't buy em, that's my personal preference. i buy lots of stocks on the bay and just switch em out if i bend a shaft.

as far as tires go i have the 23mm whell system with hd rims and moab tires.

I have heard from many Savge experts, stay away from "bling" aluminum shocks, as they are a waste of $100+ . There isn't anything you can't do to get the stock, cheap shocks to get them to perform just as well as a set of $150 shocks, and they are WAY cheaper to maintain/replace parts if they bend or break. I have 2 Savages, and I bought a spare ,complete set of stock, unassembled shocks for $21 shipped off Ebay.
Rich

[savagepicco26]

i got a full set of Hot Bodies threaded alluminum shocks for $70. they worked great for racing since small adjustments could be easily made without worrying if you had the right spacers. they've held up well for bashing too. i've never had a problem out of them.

[losi racer13]

hey does anyone know if this chassis will help lower my center gravity and if its any better then the stock.....http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFEC5&P=7

[savagepicco26]

hey does anyone know if this chassis will help lower my center gravity and if its any better then the stock.....http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFEC5&P=7
from the pics, i don't think it would lower it at all. i've seen a TVP set that was straight across the bottom, not peaked up in the middle like that one and the stock TVP's. it was at a race track though. i don't know where he got it. it was carbon fiber. i raced with the stock TVP's and just ran the lower arms parallel to the ground COG was low enough for me to run well.

[CRSMP5]

losi racer.. left you a reply in the other thread with a link.. they much cheaper..

[Savage55]

Hey guys, can't seem to get my engine tuned properly... Just wondering, what do you guys have your needles set to after break in?? And how do you determine the low speed needle setting, because it says 3 turns from closed but it just keeps going! Thanks.

[harley1874666]

in my experience the manual setting are garbage. on a different note, have you sealed the engine?

[wheeleze]

Hey guys, can't seem to get my engine tuned properly... Just wondering, what do you guys have your needles set to after break in?? And how do you determine the low speed needle setting, because it says 3 turns from closed but it just keeps going! Thanks.


I agree with harley;the manual settings are not reliable and there is no way your going to tune it if you have an airleak.

The reason the lowspeed keeps going is because it's slowly pusing the slide open on the carb as you close it too much. You need to hold the slide closed then turn the LS needle until you feel the slide move ever so slightly. This isn't really recommended since you could cause airleaks around the needle as well as damage/mushroom the tip of the needle.

FIRST set your highspeed where you want it, then set the lowspeed. To get in the ballpark, set the lowspeed so the engine will run for 3-5 seconds after pinching the fuel line by the carb: a trick i read about in rcaction.

Best of luck to you!

[Savage55]

Thanks guys, it's hasn't been sealed so I'll definetly look into getting that done...But where would I do that? lol

[insane]

i have just put 3 tanks through my savage and for some reason on the last bit of the third tank it seemed to free up why is this normal.

[wheeleze]

Thanks guys, it's hasn't been sealed so I'll definetly look into getting that done...But where would I do that? lol

You only have to worry about sealing the engine if the tuning is extremely sporadic; rich, lean, then rich, then lean again without the tank being 1/4 full. The best way to see if you engine needs to be sealed is to bring your engine to a low idle and use a dropper to drip water on weak air leak areas: on the backplate, around the different carb needles, base of the high speed needle, or base of carb. If there is a leak, the water should stall the engine immediatly, effectivly telling you where the leak is. As for where to get it done, I'd suggest doing it yourself, even if you hobby shop is brave enough to risk voiding your warrenty. Use some high temp oxy sensor save silicone sealant, like ultra copper, on all the forementioned leak areas. Be careful pulling your backplate because it is sealed with red loctite and the bolts will need to be heated up with a soldering iron to brake the bond. Dont forget to use a 'LITTLE' red loctite on the backplate nuts or they will back out. The blue loctite doesn't deal well with the temps...


my .02

[wheeleze]

i have just put 3 tanks through my savage and for some reason on the last bit of the third tank it seemed to free up why is this normal.


I assume you mean that the truck is running a bit faster as you break it in, which is completly normal. As you go through breakin, you slowly lean the engine in order to reach max rpm's. By the fifth tank you should be able to lean it out to max, but I wouldn't get it running too hot until then...

my .02

[CRSMP5]

the non primer tank leans out in the last 1/3rd tank..

[Kira]

hey guys, will the truckzilla engine mount accept other .28 size engine? I'm currently running the truckzilla conversion with the hotbodies .28 engine. But would like to use a different engine in the future, so will the truckzilla mount accept other engine? Also, if I were to get a non-truckzilla engine mount, I assume it wont accept the hot bodies .28? Thanx

[CRSMP5]

what hb 28??? and no the stock savage engine mounts should fit all teh savage 21-28 engines on the market.. the zilla ones are for their 46.. not to be confused with a 4.6 the zilla 46 is like a well 46.. the hpi 4.6 is a 28... so the 46 is bigger then the 28

[Jackyl]

Is anyone running the 3spd in their savage? Was it worth the money? I'm sick of my 2spd falling apart and doing damage. I heard that the 3spd is designed better and the grub's don't fall out or come loose like the 2spd ones is this true? I'm really want to get the 3spd but I just want some feedback + or - on the 3spd from some ppl that own it.

thanks.

Oh.

And does anyone know where to get some info on how to convert their savage to electric. I'm considering doing this if I can get the same power and run times.

Thanks.

[ritchies rc10gt]

the 3 speed is well worth the money.me and a friend have it in our savages running the dynamite .26.we beat the hell out of both trucks and havent had a problem yet.never had a problem with the 2 speed either.weve had the 3 speed probably a good 3 months now.

going to electric will be a waste of time and money.you wont get the run times that you get with the nitro.an electric car lasts around 4 minutes if your lucky at full throttle.you might squezze 8 minutes out it if your lucky.

[CRSMP5]

the 3 speed is nice.. but the hd 2nd gear is cheaper..

[insane]

any good ideas for improving the savage what"s a good starting point.

[ritchies rc10gt]

the 4 gears diffs with aluminum diff cups,new cam type servo saver,proline offset wheels and losi zombie maxx tires.i like the extended chassis,extra soft springs from the integy spring kit,aluminum steering knuckles and uprights,dynamite mach .26 engine with 3 speed tranny and beast maxx titanium turnbuckles.other than that it needs nothing.drive the truck till the stuff i mentioned breaks and replace it with the hop up parts.its a damn good truck straight out of the box except it needs the diff parts from the start,the rest can wait.if you want more power and your stock engine is still good try doing the port work if you feel comfortable taking a dremel to your engine,after its dead replace with engine of your choise but i highly suggest the mach .26.its plenty of motor for the savage,especially with the 3 speed tranny.

[Kira]

what hb 28??? and no the stock savage engine mounts should fit all teh savage 21-28 engines on the market.. the zilla ones are for their 46.. not to be confused with a 4.6 the zilla 46 is like a well 46.. the hpi 4.6 is a 28... so the 46 is bigger then the 28
ar.. thanx for clearing that up, I thought they are both the same.

Also, I'm thinking about getting aluminum shocks, are they a bit better than the stockers? From reading posts on different forum, they seems to be a waste of money. Are they really that bad? I want to get the Integy MSR-5, Thanx again

[ritchies rc10gt]

dont waste your money on aluminum shocks.ive got 4 hotbodies aluminum shocks on my desk that are bent.just go on ebay if you can and buy a bunch of stock shocks.you can pick up a full set of 8 shocks on ebay for around $20.00.i have enough shocks for 4 trucks in my parts box.cant have too many :D

[mautoys]

i like to know if the robinson heavy duty spur gear combo 48/16, works whith the k4.6 kit?

[CRSMP5]

dont wate your time.. change your cb to a ofna vented hardened one with mugen shoes and springs.. the stock set up heats the cb up enough it melts spurs..

[RON F]

How tight should the slipper be set?
I've set it by the book ;full tight ,back off 1/2 turn then back off until you cann manually make the slipper slip. I've also tried full tight and back off 1 turn.
The man at the lhs says he runs his full tight.
I've been urning up slipper pads and the answer has to be here somewhere.
Someone please help!!

[doesgo]

I go full tight, then back off 1/4-turn. I've never melted one and only chunked the teeth off two in 2.5 years.

[RON F]

Thanks doesgo,I'll TRY that and see how it works.

[wheeleze]

dont waste your money on aluminum shocks.ive got 4 hotbodies aluminum shocks on my desk that are bent.just go on ebay if you can and buy a bunch of stock shocks.you can pick up a full set of 8 shocks on ebay for around $20.00.i have enough shocks for 4 trucks in my parts box.cant have too many :D

I bent 6 of my hotbodies shafts the first day i put them on. It was at a motercross track though :rolleyes: In all reality, the stock shocks are fine, just change to a lighter spring to keep the truck from bouncing when landing.

[wheeleze]

I go full tight, then back off 1/4-turn. I've never melted one and only chunked the teeth off two in 2.5 years.

I run mine the same, only messed up one in 1.5 years... sound like the making of a contest to me :D

[wheeleze]

i like to know if the robinson heavy duty spur gear combo 48/16, works whith the k4.6 kit?

Chances are, you'll want to gear up on your pinion, but the 48t spur is going to eat up any other pinion you throw at it. I'm currently setting up a twinzilla, not quite through break in, and the pinions are eaten up. I'll have to replace them before I lean for full power :mad:

[savagepicco26]

i like to know if the robinson heavy duty spur gear combo 48/16, works whith the k4.6 kit?
that's what i ran when i raced my savage. worked great. my picco .26 was eating spur gears no matter what. yes, they were properly installed and adjusted. it didn't matter. for racing, the plastic spur gears just wouldn't hold up. i went to the robinson set up and never had another problem.

[savagepicco26]

Also, I'm thinking about getting aluminum shocks, are they a bit better than the stockers? From reading posts on different forum, they seems to be a waste of money. Are they really that bad? I want to get the Integy MSR-5, Thanx again
i put threaded alluminum shocks on my savage for racing so they were easy to make small adjustments to the suspension. other than that, i'd stick with the stock shocks. they're just as strong as anything else out there (unless you want to do an 8th scale conversion), and they're cheap to. i got mine for the adjustability, not the durability.

[mautoys]

thanks!!

[losi racer13]

has anyone ever had a problem with there dual disk brakes, sometimes they work good and sometimes they dont and sometimes they hit too hard. also i stripped out the hole on my trans case

[harley1874666]

i,ve heard they grab too hard also but some are able to set em up just right. i put the vertigo disk brake on mine and i'm going to be running it with pads from the dual set up. i wish i could tell you how it runs but it's my project savvy and i don't quite have it ready to go yet.

[savagepicco26]

has anyone ever had a problem with there dual disk brakes, sometimes they work good and sometimes they dont and sometimes they hit too hard. also i stripped out the hole on my trans case
i've heard of more problems than good with them. i've always ran the stock brack setup with an alluminum hex. i switched the linkages to the Ofna setup and it's easy to adjust and works great. no need for the dual.

[losi racer13]

well i think im going to use the stock brake with the pads and the aluminum hex. the stock one isnt bad but its the word stock i dont like lol

[richkay228]

You only have to worry about sealing the engine if the tuning is extremely sporadic; rich, lean, then rich, then lean again without the tank being 1/4 full. The best way to see if you engine needs to be sealed is to bring your engine to a low idle and use a dropper to drip water on weak air leak areas: on the backplate, around the different carb needles, base of the high speed needle, or base of carb. If there is a leak, the water should stall the engine immediatly, effectivly telling you where the leak is. As for where to get it done, I'd suggest doing it yourself, even if you hobby shop is brave enough to risk voiding your warrenty. Use some high temp oxy sensor save silicone sealant, like ultra copper, on all the forementioned leak areas. Be careful pulling your backplate because it is sealed with red loctite and the bolts will need to be heated up with a soldering iron to brake the bond. Dont forget to use a 'LITTLE' red loctite on the backplate nuts or they will back out. The blue loctite doesn't deal well with the temps...


my .02

Sorry, I disagree with this post. I now ALWAYS seal a new engine weather it needs it or not. This is simply because it's a great opportunity to internally inspect a new engine for manufacturing debris. It also will rid the possibility of future tuning frustrations due to an air leak. I have 7 nitro engines, and experienced 2 occasions years ago with "unsealed" air leak related issues. Now its a mandatory step with my new engine assembly ritual.
Rich

[savagepicco26]

Sorry, I disagree with this post. I now ALWAYS seal a new engine weather it needs it or not. This is simply because it's a great opportunity to internally inspect a new engine for manufacturing debris. It also will rid the possibility of future tuning frustrations due to an air leak. I have 7 nitro engines, and experienced 2 occasions years ago with "unsealed" air leak related issues. Now its a mandatory step with my new engine assembly ritual.
Rich
i don't seal mine and haven't had to in 6 different big blocks, but i do agree with inspecting for debris. i found a small chunck of metal in my Ofna Picco .26 Ofna said it was a manufacturing mistake and they would have paid for any damage it would have caused, but i'm sure if i hadn't caught it, it would have been my word against theirs. they would have claimed it was my fault that debris got in the engine.

[wheeleze]

Sorry, I disagree with this post. I now ALWAYS seal a new engine weather it needs it or not. This is simply because it's a great opportunity to internally inspect a new engine for manufacturing debris. It also will rid the possibility of future tuning frustrations due to an air leak. I have 7 nitro engines, and experienced 2 occasions years ago with "unsealed" air leak related issues. Now its a mandatory step with my new engine assembly ritual.
Rich

The entire post, or just the first sentence? I would also like to point out that there are few people that have the patience to rebuild an engine of any sorts. Personally, I pull the carb & glow plug to check for debris, but pulling the backplate and head is a bit beyond my dexterity... hence .02 ;)

[RCfrodoRC]

did anybody see the new quad that's based off the savage. it looks pretty cool. and it has a rider that does supermans

[doesgo]

Yeah, saw them in person at RCX in May...pretty cool! They did a great job with the scale to make it look very four-wheeler like.

[RCfrodoRC]

yea that's what i thoguht, i saw the pro-line quad body on a revo and it didn't look nearly as realistic as the savage one. and i think it would be pretty cool to tear around the place i ride dirtbike with some of my buddies who have quads. and they would think it's cool.

[losi racer13]

Alright. I finally fixed my dual disk brakes, i built them correctly and now they stop on a dime. It was a User Error lol

[wheeleze]

Alright. I finally fixed my dual disk brakes, i built them correctly and now they stop on a dime. It was a User Error lol

Be sure that the rear tires aren't coming off the ground at full brake, or you'll destroy your diff's. EPA is very handy here...

[RCfrodoRC]

what is the top speed for a stock savage

[losi racer13]

Yeah, Its crazy. I just put the ribbed pipe on my savage and i tuned it perfect for it, and now it spins all four. gotta love it. lol. Does anyone race onroad with there savage, cuz i got a good setup if they do.

[Ball Racing]

Top speed of a stock savage with the stock bell is only about 34mph..

[mautoys]

I Like To Run Faster My Savage K4.6 Kit,what Can I Do ,please Tell Me.

[mautoys]

I Like To Run Faster My Savage Ss 4.6 Kit,what Can I Do ,please Tell Me.

[savagepicco26]

I Like To Run Faster My Savage K4.6 Kit,what Can I Do ,please Tell Me.
higher clutch bell, lower spur gear. don't run off road with that though. stay on pavement. you go off road, and you'll rip out part of your drivetrain.

[josh222]

Well i hope to have a save with in the week, i am curently bidding on a savag e 21 right now, it still has the stock wheels and body and a new 21bb engine in it, i don't think it was driven much to still have the stock wheels/tires and grey/purple body :)

[wheeleze]

Well i hope to have a save with in the week, i am curently bidding on a savag e 21 right now, it still has the stock wheels and body and a new 21bb engine in it, i don't think it was driven much to still have the stock wheels/tires and grey/purple body :)


The stock tires may roll a lot, but they last a long time...

[savagepicco26]

The stock tires may roll a lot, but they last a long time...
yeah, stock tires last forever, even on concrete.

[josh222]

well i bought a used Savage 21, after 2 years of wanting one i finaly bought it :)

[doesgo]

Congratulations! Hope you love it!

[josh222]

ya it doesn't look like it has seen much abuse, still has the stock body which looks in good shape :)

[Jackyl]

Complete LST Shock Kit for your Savage (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5988194112&category=44028&rd=1) No need for extended TVP's!!

I just saw this on ebay. Who wants to be the first to buy the kit :D I was just looking for the shocks and I ran across this. Looks pretty slick, I'd buy it if I had an extra 130 :eek: laying around :eek:

[losi racer13]

yeah josh just send the stock motor in to hpi and buy the .28

[josh222]

i have plans for something like a Picco 27 and this truck has 2 srock engines but one is missing a con rod

[mautoys]

I Love My Hpi Ss 4.6 Kit.but I Lke To Buy Other Off Road Car Thats Give Me More Top Speeds Like 55 Mph Or More.what Car Can I Buy?

[doesgo]

Many 2-speed 1/10-scale touring cars will approach these speeds with a decent engine and gearing, such as from HPI, Associated, and Traxxas. Another option is a big-block on-road car like the Schumacher Fusion (approaches 80 mph) or "mid-size" CEN on-road cars. Lots of options, just search around on the manufacturers' websites.

[mautoys]

THANKS!!! doesgo.

[mautoys]

HPI Nitro MT2 18SS Kit is a good option?

[doesgo]

That's considered a 4WD stadium truck, not an on-road car. It's definitely a fun truck, though. It's quite capable off-road but you could also put street tires on it if you wish.

As for the speed you desire, however, you won't get that with a stock MT2 18SS. It can probably hit the low- to mid-40mph range, but for 55mph you'll need at least a 2-speed tranny (which is available, I believe) and a stouter engine.

[mautoys]

and ,a truck thats give 55 mph out of the box off-road not on-road?

[doesgo]

I'm not sure what you're getting at. On-road is the best place to get speed because of the lack of rolling resistance, but whether a vehicle is considered on-road or off-road usually has to do with its ride height and suspension travel, rather than its speed capabilities.

The Schumacher Menace is a 4WD 1/10-scale stadium truck that's capable of 60+ mph, but it's still considered an off-road vehicle.

[mautoys]

Schumacher Nitro Menace 21 4WD 1/10th Scale. I THINK THIS IS THE TRUCK!!!

[doesgo]

It's brutally fast, but it's not really built any tougher than anything else. Which means a crash at 30mph is no more catastrophic than with an RC10GT or HPI Nitro MT2, but the fact that this thing can crash at 60mph.....lots of stuff breaks!

We've got one at www.slapmafro.com with a silver body with red flames and later with an orange 'Cuda body), you can see it in action in some of our videos including Cold, Farm Bash 6, Farm Bash 7 Part 2, Eleven, and probably a couple others. It definitely moves right along!

However, if you want that kind of speed with more durability, get a 1/8-scale buggy and put a powerful engine in it. I just radared my GS Storm with a Picco .27 at 53mph a couple weeks ago and that was before leaning it out for max performance! That was with somewhat tall gearing, however.

[josh222]

the MT2 18SS will do 50mph stock, on HPI euro site they had a rtr mt2 witht e 18ss engien and a 15th bell hit 46mph

[MT2 owns you]

if you buy the mt2, sell the engine new, buy an OS cvrx, put in 18/49 or so gearing and that i think will do 55 mph easily. im not positve though.

[mautoys]

What Do You Think About Combination Of My Savage Ss 4.6 Kit For Off-road
And Buy A Cen For Speed?

[doesgo]

I'm not a huge CEN fan, but that thing definitely moves right along! The Savage 4.6 SS kit is a GREAT choice for the off-road portion, though.

[mautoys]

I Put The 3-speed In 4.6 Kit,with Robinson 16/48.is A Good Deal?