HPI RTR Savage 25

[fastest_savage]

The diffs are the same on all newer savages I believe. The only difference I know about is the older Sav had a 2 gear diff and now all have the upgraded 4 gear wich is alot better.

[ccs77]

All Savages that shipped from HPI after Febuary 2005 where shipped with the 4 gear diff. HPI will gladly send you the 4 gear diff mod free of charge if you bought a model after that time from a LHS or dealer who still had and older model on the shelves.

I bought my Savage 25 last Dec. and it didn't have the 4 gear diff or the bell crank servo saver...I had to ask HPI for it.

[fastest_savage]

And that is the great thing about HPI. They have awesome customer service.

[doesgo]

And they respond to "problems" with their vehicles!!! Traxxas refuses to admit there are problems with the T-Maxx and just keeps building the same junk, free of updates. HPI has improved the Savage five times now! That doesn't mean it was a bad truck to start with, just that there were areas for improvement and they addressed them. I love that.

[savagepicco26]

woah...what's up with the new board design?

[doesgo]

Not sure, but I don't care for it! Way too narrow.

[savagepicco26]

Not sure, but I don't care for it! Way too narrow.
definitely. do they think most people are still running 800x600 resolutions still or something? LOL

[ashburg]

savagepicco...howdy! Do you want to get some fellas together and come to a bash for kids at a local kids camp this June? Heard of Camp Kemo (cancer) or Camp Wonderhands? I've got a slot at Camp Wonderhands as described below, and am waiting on a slot for Camp Kemo.

I'll be running my Savage X that doesgo helped me build :cool:

You're welcome to come, just let me know or send some folks my way if they might want to participate...here's the invitation:

Arrrite Guys ready 4 this?

Not only are we ON for the Camp Wonderhands June Kids Camp, but we're in talks for an exhibitiion for Camp Kemo (camp for kids with cancer)...more to come on Kemo.

As far as the Camp Wonderhands Exhibition that some of you have shown interest in, we've gotten approval on a slot (I can't change this guys):

Be there on Monday, June 19th 2006 at 2:00pm. Our Show will be from 2:30 until 4:30 (we got a 2 hour slot!!). Again, I can't change this...we're lucky to get this slot.

:D Where is it - Camp Kindard - The Kinard Conference Center is approximately seven miles south of Batesburg-Leesville and 20 miles west of Columbia. From Columbia, take I-20 toward Augusta. Turn off I-20 at Exit 44 (Road 34) and go towards Batesburg-Leesville for four miles. Turn left on Two Notch Road. The entrance is one mile on the left. If anyone has trouble finding it, I'll send you the exact coordinates so you can go to earth.google.com and pinpoint the location.

:D Who exactly are we entertaining here - The Kid Campers of Camp Wonderhands and the Camp Directors. These kids range in age from 5 to 15 or so and are all deaf and hard of hearing. They are enjoying summer camp the week of June 18th - 23rd.

:D How do you sign up to participate - Email Ashley Brooks at nitrowarhead@hotmail.com . Let me know what kind of off road vehicle you have...it can be nitro or electric, it doesn't matter. Please also let me know a little about yourself. Currently, there is no limit to the number of participants.

:D What exactly are we going to "DO" in this Exhibition? - Since a free for all freestyle show the whole time might be a bit dangerous and monotonous, we've decided to do a race, then a stunt show. A race of sorts will enable the kids to participate as well (betting on cars, waving checkered flags, etc). We'll be navigating our trucks, truggies and buggies (all scales) around small cones in an accomodating field. The freestyle stunt show is anything goes, but will be after the race. Bring your ramp if you have one! We want to be careful, no matter what we do, that we don't hit anyone of course...

:D Who is coordinating - Mr. Ashley Brooks - NitroWarhead@hotmail.com. Since I do have a day job, I need to do all communication via email or MSN instant messenger. I am in Columbia. My blog is www.ashburg.com

:D Can We bring guests (Spouse, Child, etc) - Yes, I've gotten clearance on that from the powers that be, you can bring up to 2 guests.

:D Sponsorship - Basically, your attendance and participation alone is your contribution to the cause. If you want to hang your banner from your antenna or whatever, go for it. (I know there are some hobby shops that might want to do this).

I look forward to communicating with y'all and doing the show! How about we call our show the "Traveling R/c and Monster Truck Exhibition" or something like that?!

Bye for now,
ash
nitrowarhead@hotmail.com

[savagepicco26]

sounds like fun. i'd have to look into it. don't know what deployments and taskings are coming up this summer.

[Prinler4256]

Man O Man i just Ruined my Savage X.... the X is crushed flat, and the plate where the motor mounts onto is bent all the screws that hold the chassis are gone.... did a jump and landed upside down. very disapointed...... im.... gonnnaaa..... cryy...... WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAA ok i feel better. Good truck for bashing but dont jump it and land upside down.............................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ...............................

[ashburg]

Did you have your engine protector on?

I slammed the crap out of mine today and it took quite a beating...check it out: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3991236

[fastest_savage]

Dude that sucks!

[Prinler4256]

Yeah Protector is on.... bashed the head bad but it runs fine. i cant belive it. i keep walking to the garage to look at it.... all i can do is shake my head at, rub my chin and go back into the house... im looking now for replacment chasis plates. Looks like they are stamped so that makes them cheep.


here is a ruff picture of the situation...


Did you have your engine protector on?

I slammed the crap out of mine today and it took quite a beating...check it out: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3991236

[Prinler4256]

oh heck i forgot,, i noticed while running my truck that the alkaline batteries i use in my reciver die fast. Using Reyovac and they have been good to me in the past.... Is there a rechargable pack i can put in its place? something with higher voltage? 5 cell or 6 maybe? Anything???? hook me up with links or model #'s

[savagepicco26]

oh heck i forgot,, i noticed while running my truck that the alkaline batteries i use in my reciver die fast. Using Reyovac and they have been good to me in the past.... Is there a rechargable pack i can put in its place? something with higher voltage? 5 cell or 6 maybe? Anything???? hook me up with links or model #'s
don't know about the x, but in the other savages, any 5-cell hump pack would work.

Here's a battery pack for $15 (http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=303) it's the one i use in my savage and the same one i used in my old 8th scale.

[doesgo]

Here's (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_105&products_id=189) a 1400mAh pack for $21.

[fastest_savage]

HPI makes one that is about the same. It works awesome. I am running a Hi-Tech HS 925 MG servo and I can run all day on one good charge no problem.

[ashburg]

Egggsellennnnt :~**

Here's (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_105&products_id=189) a 1400mAh pack for $21.

[Prinler4256]

see something wrong? *gulp*

[fastest_savage]

pretty blurry

[ashburg]

Hey, what IS that lol :D

[Prinler4256]

its the chassis plate bent up

[chrisoneal]

what the hell happend there. lol. was that how it came. send it back if it was.

[Prinler4256]

oh heck no, scroll up man.... see my scribbles... i launched it up a 12' mounting of dirt for a huge jump onto assfault and well i didnt have ANY breaking power cause i was low on battery power.... gaahhhhh

[savagepicco26]

see something wrong? *gulp*
nope. can't make out what it is. i know you said it's a chassis plate, but it's too blurry to tell what's wrong. try using the macro setting on your camera for close ups.

[jmcn r]

Prinler...that looks like a TVP that literally jumped from the frying pan into one deep ditch with a very hot fire :p . hehe hope you get it replaced soon.



i have a question for all the Savage regulars...

i ran 25wt shock oil all round with stock purple/black springs on both my 25SS Savys with no real complaint for a long time....but after months of not being able to use my RCs i am going to be back on track and want to make a little step up for one of them.

have any of you tried 30wt front/35 rear or 35 all round? what did you find and with what springs? i am mostly offroad bashing..but with me that ends up being kinda racy as i always carve a little track no matter where i go. i prefer lapping and terrain tackling rather than jumping all day. i am just wondering if 35 all round may be a bit rough especially with such stiff springs.

also....i don't want to soften up on springs too much by switching to HPI oranges/Greens because of the way i drive....so has anyone tried puple/blacks with 4 greens? are they close enough to be paired this way?


thanks in advance..just want to extract a little more out of the truck :D

[savagepicco26]

Prinler...that looks like a TVP that literally jumped from the frying pan into one deep ditch with a very hot fire :p . hehe hope you get it replaced soon.



i have a question for all the Savage regulars...

i ran 25wt shock oil all round with stock purple/black springs on both my 25SS Savys with no real complaint for a long time....but after months of not being able to use my RCs i am going to be back on track and want to make a little step up for one of them.

have any of you tried 30wt front/35 rear or 35 all round? what did you find and with what springs? i am mostly offroad bashing..but with me that ends up being kinda racy as i always carve a little track no matter where i go. i prefer lapping and terrain tackling rather than jumping all day. i am just wondering if 35 all round may be a bit rough especially with such stiff springs.

also....i don't want to soften up on springs too much by switching to HPI oranges/Greens because of the way i drive....so has anyone tried puple/blacks with 4 greens? are they close enough to be paired this way?


thanks in advance..just want to extract a little more out of the truck :D
i race mine and run HPI light blue springs with 30wt all around. if you're going to mix oils, i'd run 35 in front and 30 in back so when you dive into a corner, the nose won't dip and roll as fast.

[jmcn r]

thanks for the thoughts SP26.

i think i will go with your suggestion actually. i tried 20front/25rear in another guys Savage 25 RTR that he asked me to help him out with and liked the balance and reactions...just didnt like it so soft.

the 35/30 should do what you said, cut nose diving and give me plenty of traction out of the corner while hopefully not unloading the front at all.

now i just have to figure out whats a nice soft...but not too soft set of 4 springs to run along with the stock purple/blacks. will probably leave that till after i drive it with the new oils.

[savagepicco26]

thanks for the thoughts SP26.

i think i will go with your suggestion actually. i tried 20front/25rear in another guys Savage 25 RTR that he asked me to help him out with and liked the balance and reactions...just didnt like it so soft.

the 35/30 should do what you said, cut nose diving and give me plenty of traction out of the corner while hopefully not unloading the front at all.

now i just have to figure out whats a nice soft...but not too soft set of 4 springs to run along with the stock purple/blacks. will probably leave that till after i drive it with the new oils.
also, you can change your diff fluids to change your traction. i'd start with 7000 up front and 3000 in the rear. if you're fishtailing too much out of the corners, go with 1000 in the rear or bump up the front and leave the 3000. you can do a ton of tuning with diff fluids too.

[ccs77]

I use straight up lithium Grease in my diffs. Yea it the inside tires light up a little...ok alot, but Savage diffs aren't sealed. I tried super heavy oil once and it just leaked out.

How are you guys keeping hte oil in the diff cups?

[savagepicco26]

I use straight up lithium Grease in my diffs. Yea it the inside tires light up a little...ok alot, but Savage diffs aren't sealed. I tried super heavy oil once and it just leaked out.

How are you guys keeping hte oil in the diff cups?
there's a gasket that goes between the diff cup and the ring gear. also, make sure you're using fine thread screws 16-20mm long to hold the diff together. don't know if HPI ever changed the screws, but the short, coarse threaded screws that came with the savage 25 were horrible. the screws would back out allowing fluid to leak, but the worst part was that the diff would get sloppy. this would allow the cross shafts inside to start moving and wearing out the inside of the diff cup and eventually damage the gears. this leads people to believe they need alluminum diff cups when $2 worth of screws would fix the problem. all 8th scale buggies have the long, fine threaded screws. don't know why HPI went with short, coarse threaded ones?

[jmcn r]

also, you can change your diff fluids to change your traction. i'd start with 7000 up front and 3000 in the rear. if you're fishtailing too much out of the corners, go with 1000 in the rear or bump up the front and leave the 3000. you can do a ton of tuning with diff fluids too.

hehe right on. i kept my first Sav with 3k front and 1k rear. the second one i set up it ran 7k front 3k rear....exactly like what you say.

i prefered the 3k/1k for my setup and driving.


there's a gasket that goes between the diff cup and the ring gear. also, make sure you're using fine thread screws 16-20mm long to hold the diff together. don't know if HPI ever changed the screws, but the short, coarse threaded screws that came with the savage 25 were horrible. the screws would back out allowing fluid to leak, but the worst part was that the diff would get sloppy. this would allow the cross shafts inside to start moving and wearing out the inside of the diff cup and eventually damage the gears. this leads people to believe they need alluminum diff cups when $2 worth of screws would fix the problem. all 8th scale buggies have the long, fine threaded screws. don't know why HPI went with short, coarse threaded ones?

ROFLMAO...this is serious nostalgia. i am pretty damned sure it was you that pointed this out to me probably a year or more ago. i was sealing up my diffs tighter and happened to mention it right in this thread i believe and you told me which M2 (thinks its an M2) to try.
but yeah, i am real careful when sealing up the diffs on anything...especially the Savages due to the short screws we are talking about.


hehe...its funny, there is a guy out here that i reccomended the Savage to last year and he got it as his first RC. i reccomended him a setup and it worked great, but then he started listening to someone else and he has blown his rear diff 3 times since Christmas!! :p serves him right...not sealing them properly and running way too high a rear oil sees them leaking and popping like mad.

tomorow i will try grab some fuel from wherever i can and setup my shocks to 35/30. might even look into some limiters.

[ashburg]

Hey guys...just to chime in here...I've got a Savage X, just stripped my spider gears due to mesh apparently, going to aluminum cups.

I'm going to shim them properly and pack with diff lock as described here (http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=267016&highlight=calandra)

:confused: What I'm confused about now that I've read about what y'all are doing as far as lube is which diff lube to use. The link I just gave you says to put 50,000 weight lube in there, but I'm reading more and more to use 5,000 to 7,000 weight.

Is the 50,000 weight indeed a mistake for a loose dirt track?

thanks for the input,
ash

[jmcn r]

its not necessarily a mistake, but you have to make surer to stagger the oils front to rear (ie heavier front, lighter rear). 50k in each simply is going to give poor results. if i were you i would try test out a lighter setup before i start with 50k which is quite aggressive. i havent really read up on the persons using such a high wt but i know many do. if other people are doing it on similar track surfaces to yours there shoul be no reason (if your truck is setup similarly which it may not be) for it to work for you.

kinda strange that your diffs stripped out so easily from the factory...did you make any changes to them at all b4 this happened?

[ashburg]

Ok, I'm going with 7k in front and 5k in rear then as I've been told...I just got thrown a loop by that article about shimming.

Well, I am running an OS .30 motor in there and kinda beating the heck out of it so I guess it's to be expected. I also put a Robinson Racing Steel Spur in there? I came out from tight 1/4 turn, which I thought was sufficient.

Also, I had a 16 tooth bell in there...all it would do is wheelie, got away from that and threw in an 18 tooth...I like that one alot better.

The diffs from the factory, I have been told, seem to have been too loose...calling for a shim mod.

thanks for the help,
ash


its not necessarily a mistake, but you have to make surer to stagger the oils front to rear (ie heavier front, lighter rear). 50k in each simply is going to give poor results. if i were you i would try test out a lighter setup before i start with 50k which is quite aggressive. i havent really read up on the persons using such a high wt but i know many do. if other people are doing it on similar track surfaces to yours there shoul be no reason (if your truck is setup similarly which it may not be) for it to work for you.

kinda strange that your diffs stripped out so easily from the factory...did you make any changes to them at all b4 this happened?

[ccs77]

there's a gasket that goes between the diff cup and the ring gear. also, make sure you're using fine thread screws 16-20mm long to hold the diff together. don't know if HPI ever changed the screws, but the short, coarse threaded screws that came with the savage 25 were horrible. the screws would back out allowing fluid to leak, but the worst part was that the diff would get sloppy. this would allow the cross shafts inside to start moving and wearing out the inside of the diff cup and eventually damage the gears. this leads people to believe they need alluminum diff cups when $2 worth of screws would fix the problem. all 8th scale buggies have the long, fine threaded screws. don't know why HPI went with short, coarse threaded ones?

That paper gasket hardly hold grease in much less oil, and the 1 o-ring on each end of the diff cup isn't enough to hold it back either. My bolts that hold the ring gear down are almost an inch long from the factory and are always super tight when I service my diffs (every gallon).

[savagepicco26]

That paper gasket hardly hold grease in much less oil, and the 1 o-ring on each end of the diff cup isn't enough to hold it back either. My bolts that hold the ring gear down are almost an inch long from the factory and are always super tight when I service my diffs (every gallon).
don't know what to tell you then. the paper gasket and o-rings have always kept mine sealed up just fine. mine never leak.

[savagepicco26]

Hey guys...just to chime in here...I've got a Savage X, just stripped my spider gears due to mesh apparently, going to aluminum cups.

I'm going to shim them properly and pack with diff lock as described here (http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=267016&highlight=calandra)

:confused: What I'm confused about now that I've read about what y'all are doing as far as lube is which diff lube to use. The link I just gave you says to put 50,000 weight lube in there, but I'm reading more and more to use 5,000 to 7,000 weight.

Is the 50,000 weight indeed a mistake for a loose dirt track?

thanks for the input,
ash50,000 will basically make the truck act like you put a locking spool in the diff. this is extremely hard on the drivetrain as i told you in your PM. you'll be fishtailing everywhere. the truck will handle more like a 2WD truck than a 4WD. using various weights from 1000 to 7000 will allow you to adjust the performance of the truck to your driving style. i like 7000/3000, but jmcn r prefers 3000/1000. it's a matter of personal preference and you won't know what you prefer till you try it. different tracks will require different setups as well. 7000/3000 is good for one track, but the next might need 5000/1000. also, looking over that thread for the tmaxx, no all of the info is accurate for a savage. you only need shims if there's play in the gears from excess wear. when you build a new diff, you shouldn't need shims. i check my diffs at least every quarter gallon, clean the diff housing and gears, change the fluid, and change the bearings.

[jmcn r]

50,000 will basically make the truck act like you put a locking spool in the diff. this is extremely hard on the drivetrain as i told you in your PM. you'll be fishtailing everywhere. the truck will handle more like a 2WD truck than a 4WD. using various weights from 1000 to 7000 will allow you to adjust the performance of the truck to your driving style. i like 7000/3000, but jmcn r prefers 3000/1000. it's a matter of personal preference and you won't know what you prefer till you try it. different tracks will require different setups as well. 7000/3000 is good for one track, but the next might need 5000/1000. also, looking over that thread for the tmaxx, no all of the info is accurate for a savage. you only need shims if there's play in the gears from excess wear. when you build a new diff, you shouldn't need shims. i check my diffs at least every quarter gallon, clean the diff housing and gears, change the fluid, and change the bearings.


well said SP...right on with it all.

just want to add that the diff setup also is dependent on the setup of the rest of the truck and what its been equipped with. what works on one truck will not work with the rest.

when it comes to maintenance, leaking and shimming of the diffs it doesn't take constant care to keep the things together. i only looked at my diffs after they were assembeled the first time after nearly 2 gallons....and back then that was with the 2 gear diffs that were around! i then went with the 4 gear mod and 3k/1k and never looked at them again for about 4 more gallons and they were perfect...all i did was change the gaskets that were getting stretched from me opening them up.

just get a good setup on your diffs for the Sav and you shouldn't have to worry about leakage or having them pop.

[ashburg]

ok, sorry to bother with my newbness, but when y'all say 3,000/1,000 you mean 3000 wt in the front and 1,000 in the rear?

Also, why would thicker lube leak worse? Why would 30k lube cause leaks worse than 7k lube? Just seems to me that the more viscous, the more the chance of leaking.

Allllso....does a tricked out Savage (x) have a prayer of a chance against a Revo on a dirt track? If not, thats fine, I'm just curious.

savagepicco...why don't you come to my garage in cayce behind the Monterrey's on Knox abbot and school me one Sunday :D

ash

[savagepicco26]

ok, sorry to bother with my newbness, but when y'all say 3,000/1,000 you mean 3000 wt in the front and 1,000 in the rear?
yes

Also, why would thicker lube leak worse? Why would 30k lube cause leaks worse than 7k lube?
it doesn't. if the diff's built properly, it won't leak.

Allllso....does a tricked out Savage (x) have a prayer of a chance against a Revo on a dirt track? If not, thats fine, I'm just curious.
yes. my savage can beat a revo with an RB 323.

savagepicco...why don't you come to my garage in cayce behind the Monterrey's on Knox abbot and school me one Sunday :D

ash
i might have to do that! ;) i'm up in the Summit off clemson. ever been down to the Proving Grounds? that's an awesome track!

[ashburg]

Ah yes, the Summit...I used to ride wide open on that road to Pontiac (2 notch)...you know the loooong stretch where you can see for 3 miles. WIDE open in a 1978 Trans Am.

I have no clue about the proving grounds...I'll pm you my email later, I've gotta check this out.

I've been going to Rock Hill lately...didn't know there was anything going on in Columbia besides the Lex Hobby fella's place out on Platt Springs.

hope it's not faux pas, but here's my website: www.ashburg.com

cu soon, and THANKS for the help...I've got some Revos to whoop up on :D

ash

[ccs77]

Good luck beating a Revo around a track if he's a good driver. I turn way faster lap times with my Revo than my tricked out Savage. No it is not a Savage X but I set a truck up pretty darn good for track use.

[jmcn r]

yeah when it comes down to it...

it will take a good driver and a well RACE tuned Savage to comfortably out lap a Revo hands down.

I never ran any laps with either of my Bash oriented Savages....but i did get my hands on a Race oirented Savage and ran it for one of my first racing experiences in the states and placed in 4th in the A main amongst Revos and LSTs. truck was a loaner i got to race and try sell for some1. it sold that same evening!

i do know however..take the average Savage around your average track. it shouldnt be too close to the podium very often without some good skills.

[jmcn r]

hey guys,

what is everybodies impressions of the new F25 from the Savage X? especially compared to the old S 25 from the previous Savage....

just curious, havent seen much mentioned about the engine yet.

[fusionrr]

Hey guys. I have a savage 25 with a picco 27 in it - I'm having trouble getting forward motion happening. I seem to be getting an imense amount of front wheel spin? Any ideas? Diff locked up? I thought my clutch was slipping but now that I've seen my wheels spinning (regardless of surface) I think the problem lies else where. (slipper clutch is locked tight.)
Thanks,
Jason

[ashburg]

Sounds like your rear diff gears are shot

Hey guys. I have a savage 25 with a picco 27 in it - I'm having trouble getting forward motion happening. I seem to be getting an imense amount of front wheel spin? Any ideas? Diff locked up? I thought my clutch was slipping but now that I've seen my wheels spinning (regardless of surface) I think the problem lies else where. (slipper clutch is locked tight.)
Thanks,
Jason

[savagepicco26]

Hey guys. I have a savage 25 with a picco 27 in it - I'm having trouble getting forward motion happening. I seem to be getting an imense amount of front wheel spin? Any ideas? Diff locked up? I thought my clutch was slipping but now that I've seen my wheels spinning (regardless of surface) I think the problem lies else where. (slipper clutch is locked tight.)
Thanks,
Jason
one of the rear drive cups could be loose. the one on the tranny where the brakes are likes to work the set screw loose from all the heat from the brakes. that's happened to me several times. check the rear-center drive cups and see if the drive shaft is spinning with the motor.

[doesgo]

Yeah, definitely check your drive cups. Been there!

[fusionrr]

thanks guys - will definetly check the set screws - i had that problem with my usa-1.

Had a chance to really look over my truck - missing left rear driveshaft...
Explains alot.
So whats the chance it came off in one piece? With such deep drive cups how could it come out unless it snapped? Is this a common occurance?

One more question, (sorry guys), with a 15t clutch bell and 49t slipper gear should i be getting huge wheelies?

[ashburg]

Sounds like your hinge pin came loose...is your hinge pin intact? If not, it let loose, your wheel went East, and your dogbone went flailing down the track somewhere (perhaps in one piece). Time to get out the White Metal Detector :rolleyes:

thanks guys - will definetly check the set screws - i had that problem with my usa-1.

Had a chance to really look over my truck - missing left rear driveshaft...
Explains alot.
So whats the chance it came off in one piece? With such deep drive cups how could it come out unless it snapped? Is this a common occurance?

One more question, (sorry guys), with a 15t clutch bell and 49t slipper gear should i be getting huge wheelies?

[doesgo]

Not likely the dogbone came out unscathed, it most likely broke.

Yeah, with a Picco .27 and that gearing, you should be getting big-time wheelies.

[ashburg]

Hey Savagepicco...have you heard any reviews of the new picco .28? I'm hearing alot of heresay, some good some bad...but I suspect the "bad" is purely speculation and heresay.

ash

one of the rear drive cups could be loose. the one on the tranny where the brakes are likes to work the set screw loose from all the heat from the brakes. that's happened to me several times. check the rear-center drive cups and see if the drive shaft is spinning with the motor.

[fusionrr]

Found the dogbone. (luckily its nice and big, not like an rs4 one)One end complete sheared off.
Is this something that would happen from normal wear?
Is there a stronger type I can upgrade to? Or should I just change my clutch bell to a 17T to lessen the torque?

[chrisoneal]

they make Heavy duty dogbones. yes it is from were and the torgue u have.

[ashburg]

For the drive shafts, I just got these megatravel front and rear (http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=31_63)

I also got the heavy duty cup joints (http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=31_90)

If you want even less friction and more durability, go for the MIP CVD Drive Axles (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_63&products_id=503)

good luck :D

[chrisoneal]

Hey guys i got a STS .28 for my savage. How do u guys like these engine. Are parts for it found at any online hobby shops. And is it easy to tune and does it hold the tune. Does it run hot And what are the good kinda glow plugs to run with it

[savagepicco26]

Hey guys i got a STS .28 for my savage. How do u guys like these engine. Are parts for it found at any online hobby shops. And is it easy to tune and does it hold the tune. Does it run hot And what are the good kinda glow plugs to run with it
personally, i would have gone with a more popular, easy to find parts for, good customer service motor like a Picco, OS, RB Concepts, Nova Rossi, etc. that's just me though. as for your motor, i haven't heard anything about them. STS's don't sell around here.

[ashburg]

for your video entertainment...How to properly break an hpi savage x (http://www.ashburg.com/savagevideos/howtobreakanhpisavagex.wmv) :D

[savagepicco26]

nice! LOL

you need to ride over to the Proving grounds and run their track.

[Cesarjjc]

Where can I buy this or is there a way of using any other part. I think I brake stuff no one else those. I have search tower hobby and came out empty. Any input will be really appreciated. :confused:

[doesgo]

The servo horn? You can get an aluminum one for a Hitec servo here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_134&products_id=622).

[ashburg]

Cesar....what you want to do is the "Ofna throttle Mod" (Pic below). It's way more adjustable and you can implement an aluminum servo horn (you're looking for a servo horn)

Here are the parts you'll need:

Servo Horn (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_134&products_id=622)
Ofna Linkage Sliders (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_113&products_id=54)
Ofna Linkage Kit (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_113&products_id=714)
Linkage Rod (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_113&products_id=555)
Z Bender (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=36_137&products_id=502)

There are also some fancy throttle actuators out there on ebay made of aluminum...this is all written up at my little website BulletproofSavage.com (http://www.bulletproofsavage.com)

good luck :D

http://www.ashburg.com/bulletproof/images/IMGP5418.JPG
http://www.ashburg.com/bulletproof/images/IMGP5419.JPG


Where can I buy this or is there a way of using any other part. I think I brake stuff no one else those. I have search tower hobby and came out empty. Any input will be really appreciated. :confused:

[Cesarjjc]

thank you for the quick respond. :D :D

[ron1431]

i know something is broke but i dont know what it is.my rear tires arent moving when i put it in the air. and when i look under the truck the dog bones going from tranny to diff is only giving power to the front. the rear dog bone doesnt move. im wondering wheater it ios the diff or the tranny. i dont want to take apart sonmthing and then find out that wasdnt the problem. but i still have diff action in the rear.
also i t6hink my slipper was to tight. how many turns out are you guys running.

[doesgo]

Sounds like the tranny or more likely (and much easier and cheaper to fix), a screw pin has come out of the transmission outdrive cup allowing the cup to remain stationary while the tranny shaft inside it spins.

[ron1431]

i took the truck apart and it was a screw that fell out. will have to thread lock it. lol i fell i didnt have to take it apart o well the treuck needed a good cleaning anyway.

[jmcn r]

hey does anybody know if the Savage X has opposite threaded wheel nuts/axles like the other models? silver and black?

[doesgo]

No it doesn't, jmcn_r.

[ashburg]

Wierd isn't it - what a coincidence?! ;)

ditto...on the X, all 4 are regular thread

hey does anybody know if the Savage X has opposite threaded wheel nuts/axles like the other models? silver and black?

[jmcn r]

thanks alot guys.
i want to use the 17mm hexs on both my SS's, so i geuss i either need to get a set of axels for the silver side to match the black,

or just use them as is and add washers to the nuts like how the X is setup.

if anyone has dones this yet you can let me know!!
thanks :D

[doesgo]

I haven't tried this, but reportedly you can run the HPI #6125 aluminum wheel washers (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=65_110&products_id=731) under the standard older version wheel nuts to secure 17mm hex wheels onto the 17mm hex hubs. That way you can keep your reverse-thread axle stubs.

[ashburg]

Yep, that works perfectly...make sure you use some loctite :cool:

I haven't tried this, but reportedly you can run the HPI #6125 aluminum wheel washers (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=65_110&products_id=731) under the standard older version wheel nuts to secure 17mm hex wheels onto the 17mm hex hubs. That way you can keep your reverse-thread axle stubs.

[DarkSavage]

I have the 23mm on my savage, do i use loctite on the outside nut that screws onto the nut that keeps the tire on? I just got them so thats why im wondering?
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a57/losiracer13/DSCF0253.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a57/losiracer13/DSCF0257.jpg

[DarkSavage]

Ashburg- Do you feel a difference in the throttle/brake response, since i got those coming in the mail tomorrow, and i was wanting to know if you can actually feel the diffence from the stock ones?

[ashburg]

Heck yeah man...quick brake response, holds better, everything. In the air, I can control the pitch way better :cool:

Ashburg- Do you feel a difference in the throttle/brake response, since i got those coming in the mail tomorrow, and i was wanting to know if you can actually feel the diffence from the stock ones?

[DarkSavage]

Niice, thats what i want!, i need that for quick brake acceleration action, for my 645mg. thanks man

[DarkSavage]

Does a company Make wings for the savage of do you have to do it custom like the revo?

[ashburg]

I think there's one at either neweramodels.com or rcboyz.com not positive...I do know I've seen the mount and all though, so I do know it exists

Does a company Make wings for the savage of do you have to do it custom like the revo?

[DarkSavage]

K ill go check around. thanks.

[wheeleze]

DarkSavage: Loctite ALL metal on metal screws & nuts. You don't wanna lose either...

jmcn r, doesgo: I got the hotbodies twin w/ tires and they came with 17mm hexes designed to fit the savage. They look just like the stock ones, but have the 17mm side 2 side. How deep do the hexes sit in the rim? I imagine these would be real cheap...

[jmcn r]

I haven't tried this, but reportedly you can run the HPI #6125 aluminum wheel washers (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=65_110&products_id=731) under the standard older version wheel nuts to secure 17mm hex wheels onto the 17mm hex hubs. That way you can keep your reverse-thread axle stubs.


thanks doesgo...thats exactly what I was going to do. I already ordered up a BUNCH of the X stuff...didn;t make up my mind on the hexes at the time but I decided to go for it. get the 17mm hex set and the washers :)

wheeleze:
jmcn r, doesgo: I got the hotbodies twin w/ tires and they came with 17mm hexes designed to fit the savage. They look just like the stock ones, but have the 17mm side 2 side. How deep do the hexes sit in the rim? I imagine these would be real cheap...

thanks for pointing those out. sounds like something to check out....but i don't think you can beat the washer/hex setup at this point :D

[jmcn r]

Does a company Make wings for the savage of do you have to do it custom like the revo?

yeah newera does have a kit...thinks its about 18ish 19ish $$$.

what other people have done (with a bit of creativity) is simply adapt the wing mount/wing kits straight from 1/8th buggies such as the HB lightning or even Mugen MBX4/5. They go one the stock plastic towers relatively easy. With a little more work you can get them on alloy towers too....

the problem is that many people just "followed" and slapped them on without really knowing why or what they were doing. if you wing isnt tall enough...and your bady isn't low-pro enough....you won't be getting that wing to generate any downforce..
therefore you are just going for show...or maybe a semi-wheelie bar at most.

[DarkSavage]

Haha, well i was doing some reading on the New Era version and ive read that the wing holes dont match up with the mounts. and yes i seen those kinda trucks where the wing is right begind the body.

[gamiath]

I am looking at buying a Savage 25 from a friend of mine but I am unsure of the price. First of all, the MT is in excellent condition. There are a few scratches on the body where it was flipped and the bumpers are also scratched, but it shows no other signs of damage on it. The engine has had about two tanks of 20% run through it and was not used at all after that. His son went on to other hobbies. It was bought for about $600 US and he wants to sell it for $300. Is this too expensive for a gently used (Monster truck style) Savage? I'm not quite sure. Thanks for any help you can give me.

[RDucky02]

i purchased an LST 2 about 3 weeks ago... I am not looking at the Savage X. I also have an MGT and a few other trucks...

Anyway, my question is if anyone who owns the savage x also has an MGT or an LST 2 and can compare them for me. My buddy would glady buy my lst 2 off me if i decided to go to the savage x instead. i race nitro stadium truck, but these trucks are not going to be raced, just something for fun at home...

[wheeleze]

i purchased an LST 2 about 3 weeks ago... I am not looking at the Savage X. I also have an MGT and a few other trucks...

Anyway, my question is if anyone who owns the savage x also has an MGT or an LST 2 and can compare them for me. My buddy would glady buy my lst 2 off me if i decided to go to the savage x instead. i race nitro stadium truck, but these trucks are not going to be raced, just something for fun at home...

So what is your question? Is the savage better than the LST? If you're not looking at an savage x then why ask? Well, to answer both questions, YES! There is more modifications for the savage, x or otherwise. AND you won't have to replace the truck when you hit a telephone pole @ 15"....

[savagepicco26]

So what is your question?
Anyway, my question is if anyone who owns the savage x also has an MGT or an LST 2 and can compare them for me.
thought it was pretty clear. he just forgot to use a ? at the end.

[DarkSavage]

I am looking at buying a Savage 25 from a friend of mine but I am unsure of the price. First of all, the MT is in excellent condition. There are a few scratches on the body where it was flipped and the bumpers are also scratched, but it shows no other signs of damage on it. The engine has had about two tanks of 20% run through it and was not used at all after that. His son went on to other hobbies. It was bought for about $600 US and he wants to sell it for $300. Is this too expensive for a gently used (Monster truck style) Savage? I'm not quite sure. Thanks for any help you can give me.
I would say 250 would be a good price.

[Needler56]

the center of my spur gear seems to have melted onto the slipper assembly and broke away from the entire spur gear itself. i haven't ran the truck for almost a year, all my settings are the same, and drivetrain is smooth. what could have caused this?

[ashburg]

Slipper clutch too loose maybe...tighten up the slipper clutch, then 1/4 turn out. Heat is what's causing it.

[doesgo]

The slipper was likely too loose. Replace that gear and tighten the nut down until it's locked, then back off 1/4 turn. Replacing that lock nut wouldn't be a bad idea, too. They don't last forever.

[charles]

hey, i hate to butt in, but i have a quick question. the rccaraction home page has a place you can go to that has alot of homemade videos of r/c truck and car action; as well as airplanes. could anybody tell me how to get to the page? i was there this morning and now i can't find my way back. thanks alot!! oh yea, its not the video page listed in the site features. just thought i let you know

[ron1431]

hey i was wondering if i go from 7k diff oil in the front to something like 10K or 30K most likely 10k. will i see a decrease in steering or does shock oil affect more. i would think going from 40 shock oil to 35 the car will lean in better. sorry for all the question but is running 16t on the clutchbell to much stress on the s25 off road.

[savagepicco26]

hey i was wondering if i go from 7k diff oil in the front to something like 10K or 30K most likely 10k. will i see a decrease in steering or does shock oil affect more. i would think going from 40 shock oil to 35 the car will lean in better. sorry for all the question but is running 16t on the clutchbell to much stress on the s25 off road.

good info on diff fluids in case you guys wanted to know. (i didn't write it) info comes from the XB8 instruction manual, but the front/rear info applies to MT's.

EVRYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK


Front Thinner
· increases steering into corners (off-power)
· if oil is too thin the steering may become inconsistent,especially it can lose forward traction (and steering) during acceleration out of corners

Front Thicker
· increases stability into corners during braking
· increases steering on-power at corner exit

Center Thinner
· front wheels unload more during acceleration
· decreases on-power steering (reduces oversteer)
· easier to drive on rough tracks
· if a high-power engine is used you could waste too much power and sometime “cook” the oil in the center differential because it “overloads”

Center Thicker
· more all-wheel drive effect
· better acceleration
· increases on-power steering (reduces understeer)
· better suited on high-bite, smooth tracks
· car can be more nervous to drive especially if a high power engine is used - you might need to be smooth on the throttle

Rear Thinner
· increases cornering traction
· increases steering into corner

Rear Thicker
· decreases rear traction while cornering
· reduces wheelspin

[ron1431]

thanks savage picco very helpful infromation. is it ok if i gear up to a 16t with out a problem?

[savagepicco26]

is it ok if i gear up to a 16t with out a problem?
what combo are you running now? what engine? standard or HD drivetrain?

[ron1431]

im running the stock s25.
im having a problem with the lowend needle. im trying to find when the needle is all the way in it seems to never stop. the s25 engine manual that came with the truck says it sould be flush. the manual on hpi site says 3 turns out. but i cant seem to find when it is all the way in.

[wheeleze]

The low speed needle pushes the slide out when it bottoms out so you have to feel for the slide to move. Be careful that you don't press too hard on the slide or you'll mushroom the end of the needle.

[ron1431]

thanks wheelze. another question whats the diffrence between savage shocks and savage x shocks?

[sinister]

I love my Savage 25 it's all grown up now ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v332/eosio/Savage/460303d1.jpg

[DarkSavage]

sinister what tires are those losi zombies?, they look pretty good.

[DarkSavage]

:D thanks wheelze. another question whats the diffrence between savage shocks and savage x shocks?Nothing changed on them.

[01sesedan]

Hello to everyone,

Just picked up a Savage 25 on ebay and it seems to be in good shape, minus the crack left arm.... Cracked at the pin... It came with reverse mod and metal spur gear. I've ordered replacement arm, hump pack, air filter, fuel filter and line. I'm trying to confirm the diff assembly, might have to do a 4 bevel conversion.

What's the bearing size for the steering assembly? Also, which pipe is good for all around performance? I've read the ribbed pipe give more low end torque and it louder, the polished pipe provides more top end. Not sure which one to go for.

As for shock oil, will 40wt be too thick? That's what I'm currently using on the MT1. Which weight is good of trails, no big jumps. Servos will be next... Any other tips you guys could give me would be great...

One more thing. On the last run, there seems to be a delay when it changed gears. And the more I drove it, the faster it was changing. Is this normal?

Thanks in advace.
Jose

[doesgo]

The Savage's steering takes 6x10x3mm (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=53_54&products_id=182) bearings.

The ribbed is indeed a low-end torque pipe that's rather loud. The polished is a great all-around pipe that's not as loud. I'd definitely go with the polished pipe (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=147_44&products_id=387) if I were you. Very good pipe for only $30.

If big air is out of the question you could probably go as thick as 30wt shock oil, but I wouldn't go thicker than that. Many folks run 15wt or 20wt for all conditions, but it's a necessity for big air.

Four-gear diffs are recommended, as you're aware, and so is the cam-type servo saver (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=99) setup. It's adjustable so you can get more steering out of your new servo than would otherwise be possible with the weak stock saver.

There are plenty of other things to do to a Savage if you want, or you could just run it as is and fix what breaks or address what you're not fond of when the time comes. There's really no limit to what you can do!

Oh, I'd consider losing the stock tires and getting something lighter, you'll get much better all-around performance because the stockers are really heavy! If you rarely run on pavement but run dirt, grass, and the like, I'd get some Pro-Line Bowties (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=65_165_169&products_id=599). Nice all-around tire that's much lighter than stock.

As your engine warms up to operating temperature its performance usually increases, which will make the shifting happen with more authority.

Have fun!

[01sesedan]

Thanks for the info....

What's a good steering servo?

[savagepicco26]

What's a good steering servo?
airtronics 94358. i run that on both steering and throttle/brake.

[01sesedan]

Thanks, looking for a servo good enough for bashing..... I'll check this one out...

[doesgo]

How much do you want to spend, or how much are you willing to spend? There's a HUGE range in servo pricing, features, and quality. I agree with SavagePicco, the Air 358 is great, but expensive at around $100.

[savagepicco26]

How much do you want to spend, or how much are you willing to spend? There's a HUGE range in servo pricing, features, and quality.
exactly. the 94358 is a $100 servo. it's a competition level servo that will take more bashing than you can ever dish out. it has a very, very fast response. if you're wanting something a little cheaper, the Hitec 645 is a decent option. Hitec's electronics are cheap though. i've got 4 hitecs and they've all been sent in for repair at least twice each, some 3 times. good thing is that Hitec waranties their servos for 2 years. it's a pain to send them in a wait though.

[doesgo]

If you've got the dough, I'd get the Airtronics 358 (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=370) or 359 (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=371) for steering (same specs, but the 359 has an aluminum heat sink to dissapate heat) and an Airtronics 357 (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=751) for throttle/brake.

358/359 Specs:
SPECS:
Torque (6.0v): 200oz/in
Speed (6.0v): 0.10 sec at 60 deg

357 Specs:
SPECS:
Torque (at 6.0v): 125 oz.-in.
Speed (at 6.0v): 0.07/60 deg

125 oz/in is plenty for throttle/brake, and that 0.07sec transit time is awesome!

If you want something less expensive but still Airtronics, the 162 (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=369) is a good middle-of-the-road servo that should do the job well enough at $60. 154 oz/in, 0.15sec transit time.

The Hitec 645MG (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=35) is a popular servo for Savages, but it's a bit weak and too slow for me, with 133 oz/in and 0.20sec. The price is right, though, at $39. The Hitec 625MG (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=36) is a pretty decent throttle/brake servo if you want to keep the price down. 94 oz/in, 0.15sec and $39.

[DarkSavage]

Im happy with the combonation of the 645mg throttle servo and the 5645mg for the steering

[kylew]

I have a futaba 3pm with two s3003 servos. I plan to put that radio in my savage x ss (when It finally gets shipped to me, that is)
would a 3003 work for the throttle? I was looking at the 3305 for steering it's got 124oz-in, which I thought would be sufficient, but now sounds like it may be a little weak. (ideally i'd like a 9350, but im not sure my receiver will work with a digital servo, and I don't want to spend that much money on electronics just yet). that airtronics servo sounds great, I may see if i can pick one of those up and adapt it to my radio.

[DarkSavage]

Yes, the 3003 would work for throttle, little slow, but itl do. Try something more torquey for the steering if you really want good control.

[kylew]

Do you think a 1/5 scale servo would fit in that space? I'm looking at prices for servos, and anything over 150 oz-in is really up there in price. I know I can probably get a 9350 for about 50-60 bucks on ebay, but im not sure if it'll work with my electronics (3pm tx with a 153f rx) I'm hesitant to go with Hitec, or another brand of servo, But I also don't want to spend another $120 on electronics.
Right now I'm looking at the futaba s3306, it's a 1/5 scale servo, it's dimensions are: 2.6 x 1.18 x 2.25 in. while big, it dosen't seem that big, however, I am also doubting that it'll be a "drop in" replacement on a savage x ss. at $40 for 333 oz-in at .16 sec/60 deg though,I'm considering it.

[psiturbo]

RC Modz Fuel tank relocator (http://www.rcmodz.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=5;t=22;st=0;&#entry8)

[TZapp]

anyone know of a conversion from transmision to center diff for the Savage X ? or even if it is possible?

[wheeleze]

anyone know of a conversion from transmision to center diff for the Savage X ? or even if it is possible?

The savage X tranny doesn't come with a center diff. I don't think any of the savages come with a center diff. Are you thinking of the revo?

[TZapp]

i would like to replace the tranny with a diff. to make it single speed as the truggies are.

[doesgo]

Probably be a lot easier to just buy a truggy. :(

[TZapp]

i have a Muggy. A freind has the Savage. He wants to change to center diff. its for dirt oval. the 2 speed monster trucks dont really put up a good fight when it comes to truggies. they race in the same class there. Thanks for the input. he might have to buy a truggy....lol

[ashburg]

So.......if I put MT tires on my Ravager, would it be a "Muggy" or a "truggy"? :cool:

[TZapp]

A Muggy is considered to be a monster truck at the tracks i race at. :confused:

[savagepicco26]

A Muggy is considered to be a monster truck at the tracks i race at. :confused:
never heard that one before.

[clodmaniac]

if you want the .25 version just buy the engine i have a slightly run .25 in new condition for $75 i went to the lrp .28 spec 3

[TZapp]

never heard that one before.

here is a little i took off the web page for the muggy:

"Team Losi® has been revolutionizing RC for over 25 years, pushing the limits of performance and engineering to offer an extensive line of vehicle choices. They continue to shape the future of RC with the Muggy™ Monster Truck. Blending proven technologies and the latest innovations for an intense monster truck experience, the Muggy adapts the greatest features from several vehicle designs to offer a truly unique truck, built to take on any type of terrain"

I guess thats the reason. I think the Muggy is kind of an odd ball. Its weight is as much as a monster truck, but has a center diff. guess it is out of place in either class. the monster truck class they put us in is unlimited. run what you bring kind of thing. some Revos in there with center diffs, other trucks with .32 motors and such.

[savagepicco26]

i didn't realize you were talking about THE "Muggy." that is a brand name then. it's not a generic term like "truggy" or "monster truck." if you called all truggies "muggies" then that would be like calling all monster trucks "savages" or "revos". see what i mean? that's what i was getting at when i said i'd never heard a truggy called a muggy before.

the monster truck class they put us in is unlimited. run what you bring kind of thing. some Revos in there with center diffs, other trucks with .32 motors and such.that's the way it is everywhere. that's the only fair way to do it unless they have a truggy specific class. then you'd be in that. looking at the pics on Losi's website, that thing is definitely a truggy based on the chassis, engine mounting, suspension, etc. nothing monster about it.

[TZapp]

LOL...... thats what i mean, you think the same way as me sorta. it is just like a truggy, but not really. it weights around 14 pounds. most truggies weigh much less. i forgot i was in the savage section of the forum. i guess i should have said "Team Losi Muggy". i can see how it coulda been seen that way. The first race i was in i tried to register in the truggy class, only to be told i would need to go into the MT class. Another track i will be racing at says it would definilty be in the truggy class. Go figure.... i think it can win in either. And plan to do it too........Peace ..\/,

[savagepicco26]

LOL...... thats what i mean, you think the same way as me sorta. it is just like a truggy, but not really. it weights around 14 pounds. most truggies weigh much less. i forgot i was in the savage section of the forum. i guess i should have said "Team Losi Muggy". i can see how it coulda been seen that way. The first race i was in i tried to register in the truggy class, only to be told i would need to go into the MT class. Another track i will be racing at says it would definilty be in the truggy class. Go figure.... i think it can win in either. And plan to do it too........Peace ..\/,
yeah, a lot of tracks have their own rules. thankfully, most tracks around here just run the RC Pro Series rules since they seem to be the most up to date with all the monster truck and truggy stuff and they clearly define what is what. that way you know what you're up against no matter what track you go to.

[LD3Furious]

I need some help. I am attempting to rebuild a Savy for a friend. Among other things, he stripped the pinion and crown gears on the front diff. I know I can get the pinion, but from doing a quick search on Tower, it appears the only way to get the crown gear is to buy a complete diff. Am I correct? Is there a crown from another vehicle that will work? Advice is appreciated. :)

[ashburg]

you can get the crown gear by itself...check out www.slapmafro.com , they know their stuff :teacher:

anything you get for a savage now to "replace", try to go with the new savage x ss stuff..it's beefier

I need some help. I am attempting to rebuild a Savy for a friend. Among other things, he stripped the pinion and crown gears on the front diff. I know I can get the pinion, but from doing a quick search on Tower, it appears the only way to get the crown gear is to buy a complete diff. Am I correct? Is there a crown from another vehicle that will work? Advice is appreciated. :)

[doesgo]

The 43-Tooth "bevel" gear (aka crown gear, ring gear, etc.) can be found here: http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=400 for $6.49.

Thanks for the plug, Ashburg! :)

[LD3Furious]

Cool...thx guys :)

[Blazinwarrior78]

Hey all, I kinda volunteered myself to help fix a friend's Savage. It seems to want to pull the tires while cranking the engine over. I was thinking that maybe the clutch shoes need adjusted or trimmed. I am not familiar with the savage as I am say a nitro RC10T, so anyone got some good info for me for when I dig into his Savage? Thanks.

[NitroCrackers]

Is twisted toys still around?

[ron1431]

hey guys. ive been hibernating all winter and busy with school. schools done so i have time for my truck.
i was wondering what would i need to run 17 hex wheels like the one that or on the savage x kit. do i have to buy the expensive kit that comes with the nubs?
also hows the f4.1/ the s25 loved running at high temps has this change with the updated f4.1. thanks

[nitro_newbie]

my savage is for sale in the for sale or trade forum

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=242752

[Si7]

Hi all, recently picked up a Savage 25RTR, low use, just dirty, all good. Question is should I stick with the S25 engine or I do have a Mach 26 motor knocking around - the S25 is out now, cleaned, checked over and ready to be refitted, any mileage on using the M26 instead? Quite like the rotostart on the S25 and the M26 is pullstart but not too fussed. Any views on these two motors?

Ta

[Si7]

Pics for pics sake ... :

http://www.scinet.fsworld.co.uk/Mach_S25.jpg

[RCfrodoRC]

So I picked up a savage 25 from a buddy of mine the other day. I don't really kno anything about it or how to even run it and tune it and all that stuff. I'd really like to get it running and stuff but if I can't figure it out I'll pry sell it. Does anyone know what this might be worth? Thanks if anyone can help me. I hope the pictures I'm posting work...

http://emob913.photobucket.com/albums/ac338/nooglet115/df2ff1c0.jpg?t=1263269340

http://emob913.photobucket.com/albums/ac338/nooglet115/d63be834.jpg?t=1263269452

[obiski123]

a very good engine to get for the savage 25 is a Force 36. I recently got one of these engines off ebay and after running it in last week i have noticed it has much more torque and is easier to do great wheelies with. :):):):)