HPI RTR Savage 25

[StevePond]

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/savage/savagertr25.jpg

Most of the chassis parts are carried over from the Savage 21, proven to be extremely durable and supported by a huge assortment of option parts from HPI and other manufacturers. The running changes to the Savage 25 were designed to maintain the excellent parts support already on the market, yet offer the customer a faster and more durable truck.

To wrap up the package, the Savage 25 is competitively priced. Even with the long list of added features – Roto Start, bigger engine, extra gearing – the street price for the truck will only be around $20 more than the Savage 21.

Features:
Nitro Star S-25 engine (ABC) with slide carburetor
Purple anodized, billet aluminum heatsink engine head
Roto Start System installed!
Aluminum high flow tube rear exhaust header
Stiff black shock springs
New rear pick-up 160cc fuel tank with no primer
Three-shoe clutch
Revised wheel hex hubs
Pre-painted trimmed GT-1 truck body in all-new colors with Savage 25 decals applied
Giant 1/8th scale (16.8" x 21")
Factory assembled
Full-time shaft driven four wheel drive
Complete set of rubber sealed ball bearings
TF-4 radio system with high torque steering servo
Composite tuned pipe and aluminum rear exhaust header
Cast aluminum heavy-duty engine mount
Heavy-duty drivetrain and suspension optimized for big-block engines
Hardened metal differential gears
Adjustable 2 speed transmission with heavy-duty metal internal gears
Adjustable slipper clutch
Adjustable disc brake
Wide-track suspension (nearly 17 inches wide!)
Stainless steel inboard hinge pins with anodized aluminum braces
8 long stroke oil-filled coilover shock absorbers
Rigid aluminum TVP chassis (Twin Vertical Plates)
Enclosed radio box for protection of electronics
Front and rear skidplate bumpers
Adjustable body posts (with extra mount for SUV bodies)
Chrome 5 spoke wheels and all-terrain tires (with inner foam)
*Compatible with T-Maxx bodies, wheels and tires

--Optional reverse module for transmission (using the 3rd channel of the TF-4 radio system)



See this chart for an easy comparison of the Savage 25 to the Savage 21!

RTR Savage 21
Engine: 21BB
Starting System: Manual Pullstart
Spur Gear: 52T
Clutch Bell: 14T
Clutch Type: Two Shoe
Shock Springs: Red Medium
Fuel Tank: with primer, front pick-up without primer, rear pick-up
Body: Black-Silver-Purple Red-Black-Silver-Gray

RTR Savage 25
Engine: Nitro Star S-25
Starting System: Roto Start System
Spur Gear: 49T
Clutch Bell: 15T or 18T
Clutch Type: Three Shoe
Shock Springs: Black Firm
Fuel Tank: Rear pick-up without primer
Body: Red-Black-Silver-Gray


#832 RTR Savage 25 Truck with Nitro GT-1 Truck Body
Suggested retail price: $775.00

For more information, visit www.hpiracing.com

[Pop Smurf]

This looks sweet and it's a RTR too!!!
Darn, I just bought a 21 RTR a little more than a month ago and now I find out that they will have a RTR 25. Any idea as to when the release date will be? There's always christmas

[StevePond]

It's looking like late October Based on the most current information.

[RCDoon]

What is the difference from this and the SS? The SS has to be better if this is only going to be $420.00 and the SS is at $350.00. Seems like the Radio and Roto Start should be more then $70.00 if the truck is the same???

[Bob-Stormer]

Pop Smurf, Not to worry, you did just fine with your .21 Savage. There is very little difference in all of them. The .21 is stated to have .23hp@30,000rpm, the .25 is stated to have .25hp@29,000rpm. A claimed 8% increase in horsepower and losing 1000 rpm is barely worth mentioning. Run your Savage .21 and stomp your buddies with the .25, it's all down to driving skill with that kind of difference.

RCDoon, As I understand it, the SS is an unassembled pull start version of the Savage with the .25 engine, no radio system, nothing. The .25 RTR, mentioned here, comes assembled with the rotostart, but will cost you more money. The best bang for the buck right now is the .21 savage. The truck is the same, just a displacement issue, starting method issue or radio gear issue. As the stock of .21 savages works through the system and they are gone or hard to get, I'd then go with the RTR .25 version. Just more fun to pull it outta the box and have fun with it. I'm geussing you see the .21 savages $60-$100 cheaper than the .25 version. Hard to say for sure where the pricing will be until they turn up in stock here in the states.

My .02. =0)
-Bob

[DrDiff]

My guess is that they will or already have discontinued the Savage 21 RTR and they will replace it with the Savage 25 RTR.

Basically HPI's answer to the T-Maxx 2.5.

[Bob-Stormer]

Except that the T-maxx 2.5 is a .15 engine, and the Savage .21 is a .21 engine. The Savage had more engine to start with. Might have to do with consumer perceptions.

Dr diff, I'd say you are probably right about the .21 being phased out as they phase in the savage with the .25 (.2 more horsepower). Same truck though, that's good for all the parts and aftermarket support. Not a re-do, just a different engine and some minor upgrades.

It's the Ford vs Chevy thing right now with Traxxas and HPI. We all are the winners though with good trucks. Traxxas or HPI either one is a blast, good parts and aftermarket support, both are rugged and reliable.

[nad138]

To me, the best upgrade in the .25 RTR is the fuel tank (took out the primer button and the fuel pickup is now located at the back). In theory, this might help in the half tank lean problem.

For the SS version, the best one is the upgraded dog bones.

Upgrades in one of the kit is not present in the other and vice versa. Now, what HPI needs to do is combine these two and come up with the PRO.

[Pop Smurf]

OK I feel better now about not waiting for the Savage 25 RTR if it is not going to be out until October.

The Savage 25 SS Kit did apeal to me for about 15 minutes, but I knew time is scarce for me (I work full time and go to graduate school) so it would have taken a while to build the kit. I had just finished building a touring car nitro kit and that took over a month to build.
A couple of my neighbors have the T-maxx 25 so it was nice to be different and go with the Savage. Right after I broke in the Savage, went head to head with one of the T-maxx, I keep running right over it, even let the Savage sit for a few seconds to see if the T-maxx could do the same, I ended up flipping the T-mass over and still ran over it. That was cool!:)

[RSD]

pardon me for being dumb but whts is the diff between the savage .25 rtr and the savage ss... besides that its rtr, comes with rotostart, radio and price savage ss: aroung $350-400 and savage .25 rtr: $775 ...... and what else


could someone tell me what extra stuff u get for the extra $375
beside: rotostart, radio, and being built

[1822]

Please tell me you can't be THAT thick in the head... :rolleyes:


That's retail price, not selling price. The .21 Savage is $749 retail and the .25 Savage is $775. That means you will only pay about 15 to 20 dollars more for the .25 Savage than the .21 truck. :cool:

[RSD]

i still dont get it but oh well :confused:
we'll leave that to some other day:cool:

[tlane77]

Tower has an order pending and it is priced already at $639. They've had the SS priced at $349 since it was announced. I think it'll be a little more than just 15 bucks. The roto start is an extra $40 to begin with.

[mspohn]

Try as i might, I can't find any reference to the Savage 25 on either HPI's site or Towers, would someone please send me a link to them at mspohn@adelphia.net or post it here.

[1822]

The retail price of the truck is not the price you will pay in the hobby shop or online. I checked ebay for selling prices of the two versions of the Savage you can but right now.

RTR Savage .21 retail price $749 Ebay price:$389
Savage .25 SS retail price $629 Eay price: $349

Sooooooo, if the new RTR Savage .25 has a retail price of $775, then its got a good chance of selling for about $405 from some of the cheaper retailers on Ebay. My calculator shows that as about $16 difference compared to the RTR .21 Savage.

I didn't find a link either but the truck is not going to be available until October so it doesn' t really matter.

[Bob-Stormer]

Spanky.

Actually, I have seen the savage .21 for $359.95 and the SS for $349.95, based on the rate of discount for the newer versions, I suspect the RTR .25 will run about $429-$439 when we see them in stores and on-line. Probably a few bucks cheaper as they saturate the market and you can get them just about anywhere toward Christmas and this coming spring.

If the SS's price was as sharp as the .21, then it's price would be around $327.00, and this isn't very likely.

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by Bob-Stormer
[B]There is very little difference in all of them. The .21 is stated to have .23hp@30,000rpm, the .25 is stated to have .25hp@29,000rpm. A claimed 8% increase in horsepower and losing 1000 rpm is barely worth mentioning.


The stock old savage engine is a ofna force 8 port and the newer 25 savage sport the ofna force .25

Run these 2 up against each other and you'll see the difference. The low end on the .25 plus the new stock gearing should make for a MUCH peppier savage.

A 2.5 maxx is faster box stock than the old savage. I am no maxx or savage fanboy but this I know to be true.

Anyway I'm looking at getting the kit. I prefer kits to rtr. I have a dominator but I mostly use that to race so I'd like something to just bash around with.

[NitroRookie]

Another added bonus on the .25 RTR version over the .21 RTR version are the stiffer or firmer springs on the shocks.

[BigBadTahoe]

If possible I am going to try and sell my Savage .21 to one of my friends that doesn't know the .25 is going to come out and I will hopefully get a .25 Savage. I hope it can do wheelies because up to now none of my nitros ever has done a wheelie. Not my 2.5 maxx, .21 savage, or nitro quake and the stadium trucks never seem to come close. So that would be awsome! I hope it is faster and had more torque than the 2.5 so I can go race other maxxes and beat them all! To me the savage is better overall than the T-maxx even in .21 form. The .25 should definatly make this the king of the monsters! Now if I can talk my lhs into ordering the darn thing.;)

[tooslow]

Instead of selling you current Savage and losing money, and then having to buy another Savage just to get the .25, why not just take advantage of HPI's .25 engine exchange program. All you have to do is send HPI your old .21BB and $99 and they will send you a brand new .25 engine. The details are on their website.

[Nitroaddict]

I don't know why they are claiming the .21BB in the Savage has 2.3hp...When this truck came out it was claimed to have 1.7hp, which sounds about right especially since I have read that this engine is just a Ofna force P4. I had a hyper .21 which is rated at 1.9 and was way more powerful than the .21bb in the savage...I am betting that the .25 engine in the new RTR is just a force .25 with a different engine case and head..


Nitroaddict :)

[BigBadTahoe]

If I can sell my Savage to my buddy for $300 do you think its worth doing and then waiting and trying to but a RTR Savage .25? If it is more powerful than my 2.5 maxx now I would love to move up to the .25 engine in a brand new clean truck! What do ya think?

[GA Maxx]

right just to clear some things up:

The Savage .25 rtr will be around the $440 mark, the .21 has been discontinued.

With a clutchbell change the .25 RTR will wheely on demand

The SS isnt really a 100% kit, the Engine is mounted to the Plate, and the differentials are built.

The Differences Between the rtr 25 and rtr .21bb are:

Engine
Springs
Rotostart
Gearing
BodyShell
Fuel Tank

the SS isnt a .25 rtr in kit w/o radio, the SS has HD bones, and a tuned pipe vs the radio and new tank

I personally Think they are both good buys

Howevr my Original first ge nsavage will beat both the SS and the .25 rtr :)

thanks to a picco .26 :D

[MORTER MAN]

I am selling every thing I own just to get one of theses!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:D :D :D :( :cool: :eek: :D :D :p :D

[GA Maxx]

dont blame you :)

[GA Maxx]

UPDATE: HPi Has recieved the First batch of HPi RTR .25's, and should be sendingthem to distributors very soon, the .25 should be out around Early October .

I dont know how reliable my source is but i thought i'd post it

[DieselNut]

Hey all, seems www.ultimatehobbies.com has them in stock $409.99, FREE shipping right now also!

[rckid11]

I want one so bad but don't have enough money. :( If its already out at ultimate hobbies why do they say that it is coming out in October? :confused:

[DieselNut]

Originally posted by DieselNut
Hey all, seems www.ultimatehobbies.com has them in stock $409.99, FREE shipping right now also!

OK Scratch that idea on ultimate hobbies!

http://www.labbb.org/scripts/cgiip.exe/WService=wsbroker1/C%3A/Inetpub/wwwroot/SouthlandReport/default.htm?hCompID=13082029&hAKAID=1&hAddrID=1

[unknown person]

gutted

IM definatly getting one of these by the end of october. all i need to do know is to sell all my rc gear

[X-Tee Ha !]

Hi

Can anyone/everyone give me advice as to whether a 25 Savage or a 1/8 Buggy would be the better performer off road, I'm not sure which to buy !

Basically, would a Savage eat a 1/8th Buggy on an off road track, or would the Buggy be the killer, or is there not much in it? (Handling & lap times mainly) I would eaither get a Picco 26 powered Savage or a fairly top level .21 1/8 Buggy, both with a £500 budget.

Thanks for any advice !

X-T-H

[nad138]

X-T, get both :D

Seriously, the buggy will be hands down faster than the Savage (weight, gearing..etc). But if you like to bash around also, get the Savage (bring it everywhere).

If you have friends that have either one, ask them if you can drive it and you make the decision yourself :)

[X-Tee Ha !]

Thanks for that, I'll get both :) Think I'll get the Buggy first though from what I have read.

Ta !

X-T

[nad138]

X-T, great choice. I did the same :p

[cduna]

Just ordered the .25 Savage man I cant wait to break this thing in and run it against my 21 powered T maxx . The only problem is I can only drive one truck at a time !

Anyway have info on the roto start ?

[nad138]

My friend has the roto-start for his Picco .26. I don't know if he's just having bud luck with it as the rotor itself stopped working like a month ago. So he bought a black&decker hand drill (works just the same and has better torque for turning the engine over) and used the original dogbone that you insert on the back of the engine, and that broke yesterday. I'll probably just stick with the pullstart.

[MORTER MAN]

I JUST ORDERED MINE OFF E-BAY.440.00 WITH SHIPPING!!!!WHOOOOOO HOOO!@

[Don1Lcm]

Bruckner Hobbies has five New Savages in stock as
of Monday Night.

[DieselNut]

Hey all, make sure to do the Locktite on the backplate, Im reading horror stories all over the web , Cant understand why HPI hasnt addressed this issue....quailty control seriously isnt up to par........good luck.

[MORTER MAN]

HAVE I MADE A MISTAKE?????GETTING IT I MEAN?????
WHAT DO I DO WHAT DO I DO!!!!!!!AHHHHHH!!!!!!!!
I dont want to have to get it then send it off for searveice.
What do I do guys ?HELP!

[sasonrally]

Don't panic.... Simply do your homework before firing it up.
Take the engine off and loctite the backplate. Better yet. open the backplate to cehck for metal residue in the engine. close it, seal it, loctite the screws, lube it a little with ARO. check all screws.!!!!

Good luck.

[MORTER MAN]

i DONT MIND TAKEING SOME SCREWS OUT THE PUTTING LOCKTITE ON THESCREWING BACK INBut theres no way in hell I can take apart an eigine and put it back together!AHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!:(

[sean68]

i would recomend learning.... i only got 5 tanks through my new rtr 25, and the pin fell out and tore up the inside of my case! not too happy with the quality control at HPI!!!! i simply cant believe they didnt lock tite those screws.... im gonna be tearing apart the whole truck to find out what else they didnt lock tite?

[egdinger]

well from what I've heard is the pin that falls out and tears up the enging is really short, when I took my back plate off, i just had to losin it and the spring under the pin poped it out. But the should have thread locked it.

[MORTER MAN]

So all I do is take the screws out put a drop of thread lock on and put em back in? I dot wanna have to pull the engine all apart!!!!:( :mad: :eek:

[sean68]

u got it... its really pretty easy! i dont think u will have a problem. just make sure u get to the ones that mount to the case(metal)! u will know what i mean when u get it open.

[sean68]

u first remove the 3 cover screws to get to the 4 u will want to lock tite. just do one at a time so u dont take the chance of losing the spring, or pin? i hope that helps?

[MORTER MAN]

ATTN: LOOK HERE IF YOUR JUST GOT A SAVAGE 25 DO NOT RUN UNTEL YOU HAVE DONE THIS.NOT DOING SO COULD RESULT IN A BROKEN ENIGINE!http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=68008

[Soloithz]

I just bought a Savage SS and have it up and running and everything. I haven't finished breaking in the engine yet. I am excited though, it sounds awesome. According the HPI Forum the s25 is considerably better than the 21bb. The displacement is not the major reason for that. Its everything else about the engine, porting, case design, blah blah.

As for the SS not being much different than the 21 well that's just not true. It has many option parts that are not stock with the 21. And its still only $350! I put it together in 8 hrs not including the paint or break-in. I will repost with some pics!

And to the the best of knowledge NO ONE EVER should or does use loctite inside the engine, not even on the head scews. The loctite would just melt and burn anyway. (remember the soldering iron trick you guys use to remove threadlocked screws???) Engine temp: 200-275F + liquid threadlock=fire. I would venture to guess that if the loctite was used inside the engine then when it melts it would actually help losen the screw as well which is not good. In liquid form loctite is like soap on your srews...completely useless and slippery.

[Soloithz]

Here are some pics. The second one shows the cool paint job. It looks like flekstone or rhinoliner spray on bedliner stuff. In bright sunlight it will glow pearl blue inside as well.

[Soloithz]

Nice eh

[MORTER MAN]

DONT LISTEN TO SOLOITHZ!
Lock tite those back plate screws!Red lock tite muct be heated up to 450 to melt.An avarage engine will and can not ever get that out with out blowing!:rolleyes:

[Soloithz]

Originally posted by MORTER MAN
DONT LISTEN TO SOLOITHZ!
Lock tite those back plate screws!Red lock tite muct be heated up to 450 to melt.An avarage engine will and can not ever get that out with out blowing!:rolleyes:

Sorry for the misunderstanding but Morter man, you misunderstood what I said. You shouldnt use loctite inside the engine which is what the previous reply was about and not on the head screws and not the regular medium kind. You need the heavy duty loctite that HPI recommends for the backplates screws and nothing else. Sorry for the confusion.

[Soloithz]

I got my engine all broken in now but there is one problem. When I start it it idles for a couple seconds but as soon as you even think about touching the trigger it wants to bog down and quit. But the even bigger issue is that without touching anything the truck starts to revv up really fast and stay there and nothing i do stops it without pinching the fuel line. I already messed with the backplate screws and checked air filter and the servo and none of it was moving when the engine revvs out. I think its an air leak possibly but the tubing is fine and the engine is of course brand new? Any ideas? friggin HPI has no tech support on fridays and saturdays grrrrr..

[egdinger]

Air leaks don't just come from the fuel lines and an engine can leak when its new. I would just seal it up, I think the stuff needed is copper oxygen sensor safe sealent if you don't know. It really does sound like an air leak.

[wicked25]

just got threw my third tank of nitro today on my Savage 25 (yahoo) truck is awsome but 1 problem, it doesnt turn hardly at all on grass, street, or dirt, can anyone please help!

[FunkyLarma]

Soloithz,

sounds like you got an air-leak in your engine. It might be the back plate working lose. Get some lock-tite on there quick ;) j/k

I have read many things about the back plate issue with the Savage 25 and it does look like the first thing to do before firing it up is give the truck a once over.
I know this goes against the Ready To Run selling point, but I would rather do this than kill the machine first time out.
HPI recommend Red Lock-tite 262, this might be a bit over kill as the bolts will be hard to remove later, people have suggested the Blue Lock-tite which will still stop the bolts loosening but won't hold like a stud locker if you need to remove them.

[Soloithz]

I already loctited the backplate although I am not sure if I checked it after I had the problem or before. Any other sugestions?

[Soloithz]

Originally posted by wicked25
just got threw my third tank of nitro today on my Savage 25 (yahoo) truck is awsome but 1 problem, it doesnt turn hardly at all on grass, street, or dirt, can anyone please help!

Are you using a heavy duty servo for the steering? Something with around 100 oz of torque. I have a 100 oz torque servo in my SS and it works fine. The truck wont turn unless you are giving it gas as well. It wont turn in place like a 1/10 vehicle. Tires are just too big and stuff.

[ALJR]

if you have really bad steering, check your servo-saver. the spring inside might be defective or broken.. your better off just getting a kimborough black HD servo saver! if your still not happy with your steering, then its time to bite-the-bullet and buy a high TQ servo. hitec makes a nice one for around $80. its the 945 model, check tower, i think they had it for $79...

could you describe your idleing problem a little more? are you adjusting your idle screw properly? it sounds like your new to nitro. so i strongly recomend reading the manual on engine tuning... it could be your idle screw, your low end needle, small slice in your fuel line (which won't leak at idle with little pressure)... basically any number of things at this point...

[ducklake1]

I got my truck 2 days ago, man is it Awesome!!
I can't believe how much power it's got for being stock, the engine's Awesome.
My Brother's got the original .21 Savage, man there's a big difference.
I've ran about 7 tanks through mine, no problems.


http://cwhobbies.com/RC/DSC01701.jpg

[sean68]

has anyone here had to send in there .25 motor for replacement (backplate issue)?? if so how long did u have to wait to get it back? i sent mine in on the 9th of this month, and still no word? thanks all!!

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

So whats happening lately with everyone's savage .25's?

Everyone got around the backplate issue yet?

This thread needs some more pics!!!:D

N~F

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

ya, can anyone varify how long it takes hpi to replace then engine

[Soloithz]

Takes about 2 weeks and I sent mine from the east coast

[stkkts]

I just ordered mine last night! I CANT WAIT I CANT WAIT I CANT WAIT I CANT WAIT I CANT WAIT!!!!!!!!!!! :D

Its my first ever nitro vehicle, and first RC vehicle since I was 7 when I had the thunder cats tank, but that was attached to the remote control by a cord,....so it wasnt all that remote. :p

[Needler56]

i was helping a friend break in the engine and on the first tank, after a few minutes, the engine starts screaming even while the carb is fully closed. whats going on?

[punkrockracer]

that would be the air leak...go on the first 2 pages, find the link and get ya some heavy duity locktite and follow the instructions...a 7 year old could do it so it should take 3 minutes + time for locktite to dry...and there should be your "screaming" issue solved

[rckid11]

I just got mine! I didn't know it was so big! I have one question, is it ok to cut the antenna?, because it is way to long. I can't wait till I brake it in! :D

[Needler56]

i just broken mine in, you will not believe how fast this thing can go!

[Sarge]

Hey guys, I'm thinking of getting a savage .25 RTR and am wondering what I would need that DOES NOT come in the box. I know I need fuel but what else to get it rolling and to do routine maintenace. starting from scratch. Thanx

[Needler56]

8 AA batteries for the transmitter, 4 AA batteries for the reciever, 6 cell stick pack battery for the roto start, glow plug ignitor, and after run oil. i think thats it, add if not. hope this helps

[Sarge]

Which battery pack would you suggest.

DuraTrax Shark 6-Cell 1500mAh Sport Standard for $10.99 each

or

DuraTrax Piranha 6-Cell 1900mAh Flat Standard for $16.99 each.

Or do you know of something different I should use?

I was thinking of getting 2 packs.

And what about this charger??


Hobbico 900 AC/DC Auto-Charger for $26.99


Thanx again

[Needler56]

i'm using a 1400mah trinity zip pack and an astroflight peak charger. i don't think there is a minimum for the rotostart, but what i do know is that the lower the mah the more torque you'll get versus the higher the mah the more run time you'll get. i also rewired the rotostart with 12gauge wires and deans ultra plugs and it seems to have more power.

[Sarge]

Thanx Needler56. One more question. I don't know if it is a good idea but I like the idea of adding the reverse in the truck. I know you need that part and a servo but will the stock handheld transmitter work with the added reverse function. I have read that they don't work all that well (reverse) and that is a concern. Have they gotten any better?? Thanx

[Needler56]

i don't know anything about the performance of the reverse module, but i haven't heard anything negative. as for the stock transmitter, it has a reverse switch so that you can put the truck in reverse. the reverse module also requires an additional servo.

[Sarge]

Great thanx. I know on my last post I said I had one more question but here is one more if you don't mind. I have read that it would be good to put on a new pipe and air filter. Any particualar kind that would give the best bang for the buck?? Thanx again.

[Sarge]

I ordered my new savage .25 RTR today. Going to pick up all the necessary odds and ends tomorrow. I hope some of you are ready to help guide a blind man. :)

[Needler56]

see:

http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_153.htm

for the exhaust system. i don't gaurantee thats the best bang for your buck, but i have a one piece system from rdlogics for my mugen touring car and i like it a lot. as for the air filters i'm not to sure about whats good or not.

when you break in the engine, read the directions carefully from the separate engine manual. this happened to me and my friend, but on the first tank you're supposed to let it idle with the wheels off the ground and in a matter of minutes the engine will go crazy for whatever reason, when it does that, just turn down the idle screw counter clockwise.

after you break in the engine and run it full throttle, you will not believe how fast that thing can go! you'll do three wheel motions, that whole night rider thing where the car is riding tilted on one side, pop wheelies, etc

lastly, you might notice that the brakes don't work very well, or not at all. either tighten up the brake adjustment knob (or screw, or whatever the name is) or put longer fuel tubing. now it wont brake like an F-14 tomcat landing on an aircraft carrier, but it'll stop the truck. hope this helps!

btw, does anyone know a good glowplug for the S25 engine?

[krome]

Hi,
Ran a gallon through my 25 already:D
The air filter i recommend is the Motorsaver one, part # SAV90
i would also recommend either the Hot Bodies pipe:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDVK7&P=7
or the HPI ribbed pipe:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFKM5&P=7
Both are good for low end power( wheelies) and a big improvement on the stock plastic pipe.
There are more expensive pipes out there but these to seem to be the best bang for buck pipes.
Go for a 6v hump pack with charging lead as it can be a bugger to get in to change the batteries.
Hope this info helps:cool:

[Sarge]

I'm thinking about some foam tire inserts and not sure as to which ones to get for each type of driving conditions. Here is a link to a bunch of different types but I'm not sure. Some look like just rings and I'm not sure how those work but what are the hard, medium and soft for. I'm guessing they are for some, a little and no bounce, but what is best for off road track or just bashing around. Thanx

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=foam+tire+insert&FVPROFIL=++

[Needler56]

are these foams for the savage? the savage comes with pre glue'd tires with foam inserts. as for stifness of foams, soft is for off road so it can absorb the rough terrain and i guess hard is for packed dirt? anyone please correct me on this if this is wrong.

[Sarge]

Raeson I thought about getting some inserts was because when I was at my LHS and was checking out the savage, the tires didn't seem to have much cushion in them. It was pretty easy to feel the wheel if you pushed on the tire with my finger.

[VMach]

Here are a couple types of inserts for Monster truck tires that work on MT Tires.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVL81&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTG36&P=0

[Sarge]

My LHS told me that more than likely the first thing to break would be the lower "A" arms. I have been checking them out and all I can find are ones that say they are for a Savage. Not a .25 Savage or a .21 Savage. I am assuming they will fit on both. Can somebody confirm this for me. Thanx

[Needler56]

from what i know, savage 21, 25, and SS are all the same truck. the only differences are gear ratios, engines, and other things such as spring stiffness. but overall all chassis are identical.

[tripplefatty]

if you snap the lower arm on your savage you wil have to buy more then just the lower arm....this truck is by far the strongest truck on the market....i have had to of them & beat the dirt out of them & never broke a lower arm..the people at your lhs dont no what they are talking about...

[Tiburone916]

i have a savage 25,anyone know if i can buy or get battery that i can recharge for control or the one in the car?

[bobo]

I broke my lower and upper arms on the first day...then again i hit a full trash can right on the wheel:rolleyes:

I love this truck! Ive ran about a gallon through it and its great. Ive done a little jumping and it handles it really well, the speed is great, brakes could be alot better, off road handling is awesome:D

heres a pic of the truck on the 2nd day running
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid95/p7972581e28a6b1a8d66522989d375ba6/fa25bdc7.jpg.orig.jpg

[tpeep]

I "should" be getting my Savage RTR next Tuesday(Can't wait, Can't wait!) Anyway, I already plan to:

change the diff to spider diff.
get a better servo for steering.
putting in a servo saver for the steering servo.
adding a ofna micro fail safe.
getting a center skid plate

My question is what type of servo works well as a steering servo and do the hpi steering upgrade that includes 4 ball bearing really help the steering at all? What other upgrades do you think that I should get?
Thanks

[tripplefatty]

if you are going to just bash the truck i would get the spyder gears for the diffs & the center skid ...the stock servo will work fine with a race pack....there is some flex in the steering set up on the sacage...but not to much....if you are going to race the savage ...i would go with the ofna servo saver of of the dominater..& that should take out alot of your flex & she will turn great even with the stock servo..from hpi..i would also put the second pin in the tranny ... in the 2 speed part of the tranny ..there is only one pin in there..just take a set pin from a maxx that holds the drive line to the diff..& when you open up the tranny on your savage & take the 2 speed apart..there is a hole..across from the pin that hpi put in the tranny..just put your other pin in there..no mods needed..& you will shift alot better..pluss it take some of the blow off of the one pin thats in the second gear set up...& for the spyder gears ...the storm spyders will work fine ..that what i ran in my race savage...& ther very cheap..
jamie...

[tpeep]

Thanks for all the help jamie

[Needler56]

what is that white coat underneath the body? is that an undercoat? or "sprint white" used as a universal undercoat? what's the body anyway, a ford f-150 or an hpi original?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by bobo
I broke my lower and upper arms on the first day...then again i hit a full trash can right on the wheel:rolleyes:

I love this truck! Ive ran about a gallon through it and its great. Ive done a little jumping and it handles it really well, the speed is great, brakes could be alot better, off road handling is awesome:D

heres a pic of the truck on the 2nd day running
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid95/p7972581e28a6b1a8d66522989d375ba6/fa25bdc7.jpg.orig.jpg


here it is, you linked it wrong...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid95/p7972581e28a6b1a8d66522989d375ba6/fa25bdc7.jpg

[1 Bad STi]

fellas, what size are the hexes in (mm) are on the savage? Does anyone have a good picture of the hex on the truck?
thanks

[SavageBurn]

Man, I love the Savage truck! It got me back into RC after many years. I was into RC since the original first Losi and RC10 buggy (still have the first Losi buggy). I got the .21 Savage recently after I saw a couple of kids running their T-Maxxes in the parking lot. I picked up an R/C magazine and saw the Savage and just had to have it. Savage .25 joined the growing collection shortly after. The .21 is a blast to drive now that it has about 2 gallons on it and the motor is really broken in.:D
The .25 I just got done doing the initial break-in and I'm still running it a little on the rich side. Man, this thing is so much fun, wheelies on demand (on the grass) and with careful throttle I can keep this thing in a wheelie for about 40-50 feet.:D
The other day I set up a ramp in the street and much to the amusement of the neighborhood kids, gave the .21 a good "air-obatic" workout...:D Had so much fun that I busted the top fin off the .21 engine. Oh well, the HPI has a nice exchange program going on..$99 for a brand new .25 engine and I was going to convert it anyways(not that the .21 is no good anymore)...Keep up the great job HPI!;)

[Sarge]

Question for you guys. After 2 weeks of waiting I finally got my Savage RTR yesterday. I put some mystery oil in it and then today I went to break it in. I opened the carb as per the instructions and did everything just like the instructions said to do. Of course the instructions are not for a primerless tank or a rotostart but I didn't feel that was an issue. I added my fuel and then went to use the rotostart to get some fuel going through it but it wouldn't suck up any fuel. I then covered the exhaust and tried to start it and did get some fuel to start to go through. Not enough before the rotostart seized up/ wouldn't work. I even tried recharging the battery for the rotostart. What did I do wrong here?? Any help is appreciated. Thanx

[VMach]

How long were you turning the roto start over without letting go of the button? Does it spin if you pull the shaft out of the back of the motor? If it does pull the glow plug out and then turn the motor over. Put a rag or something like that to keep the fuel and oil from spaying all over the place. put the plug back in and try it again. you can leave the plug loose and after the motor starts tighten the plug up. Leaving it loose will make it easier to start but tighten it right away.

[Sarge]

Will try that, but are you suggesting I flooded it?? If so I don't think enough fuel went through to flood it. Thanx

*edit* I do have fuel running through it after rechecking it just now. I think I am not keeping the rotostart going long enough for the motor to turn over.

[Sarge]

OK I got it to start. Now it is like full throttle after it starts. I tried to adjust the idle screw counterclockwise and that didn't seem to help. I then tried it clockwise and it raised the RPM's. Manual says the wheels should barely be turning but mine are cruising along rather rapidly. Is it too rich??

[VMach]

sounds like it might be too lean

[Sarge]

Ya I figured that out after a few attempts. I don't think the factory settings were what they said they were. I took both high and low needles and the low I turned clockwise and it didn't stop turning and I got to around 4 1/2 turns which is supposed to be the high needle setting. The high was right at 4 1/2 turns. I had run 1 tank and wasn't going to go any further tonight but tomorrow I will screw that low needle in all the way and see how far off it actually is.

Here is one more thing I forgot that has me confused. I turn on the batteries in the truck, then turn on the transmitter and my servo moves the throttle linkage like I had my finger on the trigger going for full speed. It moves so that the carb goes all the way open!!!

[electric130]

Originally posted by Sarge
Ya I figured that out after a few attempts. I don't think the factory settings were what they said they were. I took both high and low needles and the low I turned clockwise and it didn't stop turning and I got to around 4 1/2 turns which is supposed to be the high needle setting. The high was right at 4 1/2 turns. I had run 1 tank and wasn't going to go any further tonight but tomorrow I will screw that low needle in all the way and see how far off it actually is. got my Savage 25 on Monday and it broke in real nice, exactly to manual specs. no problems what so ever. i've got about 3/4 of a gallon through it now and it's starting to show it's true colors. i love the performance of this thing. i've had to lean it out some from the factory settings as it gets a little more broken in.

Originally posted by Sarge
Here is one more thing I forgot that has me confused. I turn on the batteries in the truck, then turn on the transmitter and my servo moves the throttle linkage like I had my finger on the trigger going for full speed. It moves so that the carb goes all the way open!!! check your servo reversing switches. they might had been bumped/switched.

[electric130]

Just to give you guys an update, this was posted in the HPI FAQ Forum for the Savage on Nov 20, 2003 8:10 pm:

Originally posted by HPI Staff
All Savage 25 trucks that show up in hobby stores at this point will all have the threadlocked backplate, even if they don't have a red X on the box.

you can also see it here for yourself (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=68528)

[Sarge]

Thanx. I think I have figured out most of the issues I was having, I just haven't had a chance to get out and start it up again.

[hung_kuen]

What settings are you guys running att....
I am going over to a friend off mine to help him out with his savage... he is totaly new to the game and has lost his manual so i just need a starting point.

Thanks for all help

[electric130]

well, it's only been 3 days now that i've had my savage and i already broke my spur gear. what is the easiest way to change it? what all do i have to take apart? the manual isn't much help for this. i can see how things go together, but i'd like to disassemble as little as possible. also, what needs to be readjusted after it's back on if anything?

[Needler56]

electric - how did you break your spur gear?

hung - out of the box, during break in, i had to lower the idle because it was going crazy. after that, i added 1 3/16" fuel tubing for better braking. i haven't touched the low speed needle and my high speed needle is at four turns. i've read that taking out the spacers on the shocks will improve handling, but i haven't tried. was this what you were asking for?

[hung_kuen]

I just needed the nedle settings thats all..
Thanks man.. could you check how many turns out your low end needle are cause i think my friend has tried adjusting it...

[electric130]

Originally posted by Needler56
electric - how did you break your spur gear? don't know. it just broke. i was running it on the street and in my grass. it started making a clunking noise when it would start from a dead-stop. it did that a few times and then the next time i hit the gas, the RPM's shot way up, but the truck didn't move. took the body off and sure enough, there were teeth broken off the spur gear in several spots. i wasn't jumping it or doing anything crazy either.

here's a question....i have the Savage 25, and i think the stock spur gear is 49 teeth. the replacement i got from the LHS says its a 52 tooth gear. what's the difference? is it going to change performance? cause mounting problems? might not get around to fixing it till tomorrow.

has anyone here installed the reverse module? any problems with them? i've heard they can bind up and stop the motor. how time consuming is the installation?

[electric130]

well, changed the spur gear and didn't really notice any difference in performance. don't really need it though. this thing is really showing it's colors now. i thought about upgrading the engine, but i don't need it. it's fast enough for me stock. i'm not racing it though. just playing around. one other thing i did was to get rid of the alkalines in the truck and replace them with a 1200mAhr 5-cell hump-pack. MAN WHAT A DIFFERENCE! servo response is much better and faster now. i also changed out the stock power switch for a new one with charge port. no more changing batteries for me! i definitely recommend this upgrade for everyone.

[Needler56]

how's your braking with the new reciever battery pack?

[Sarge]

Mine is good... It actually stops on a dime after I added a little hose to it.

[electric130]

Originally posted by Needler56
how's your braking with the new reciever battery pack? like sarge, i added a little hose to the brake linkage and re-adjusted, and the brakes will grab pretty hard now. much better than with the alkalines. i had added the hose while running the alkalines(i was at a track and couldn't stop for turns) and it really helped, but it was even better with the new pack.

[Needler56]

thanks guys. have you guys thought about upgrading your shocks to ones with piggy back resevoirs? what exactly do they do? also, should i stick to the stock glow plug, or any cold glow plug will do?

[Needler56]

electric - what switch harness are you using? they have a dsc and a pcm, what's the difference?

[electric130]

Originally posted by Needler56
electric - what switch harness are you using? they have a dsc and a pcm, what's the difference? i'm not sure what DSC and PCM mean in the context that you're asking. it's not the same brand, but this is pretty much identical to what i'm using now:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL303&P=0

mine was a direct fit in the stock switch location. the only thing i had to do was to trim a small notch in the radio compartment cover for the charge lead to come out. then i strap tied it in place so i could hook up the charger, but it won't get damaged in a roll-over. i'm just glad i did this now and not after i changed the batteries several times. hopefully i won't have to get back into the radio compartment for a long time.

[Sarge]

electric130: What kind of charger does one of those receiver packs your using need? I only have this one.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=pirahna+cx-10&FVPROFIL=++

[Sarge]

Does anybody use rechargeable AA batteries or is that a bad idea???

[electric130]

Originally posted by Sarge
Does anybody use rechargeable AA batteries or is that a bad idea??? that's a bad idea since they will only provide 4.8v total. you'd need 5 batteries, hence the reason to buy the 5-cell hump-pack.

[Sarge]

OK... What about the charger for the 5 cell hump pack?? And what about running AA rechargeables in the transmitter?? Thanx

[electric130]

Originally posted by Sarge
OK... What about the charger for the 5 cell hump pack?? what about it? not sure what you're asking?


Originally posted by Sarge
And what about running AA rechargeables in the transmitter?? Thanx same thing with the reciever pack. you're only going to have 9.6v instead of the 12v with the alkalines. plus there's no charge port so you'd have to take all 8 batteries out to charge them.

[Sarge]

Originally posted by Sarge
electric130: What kind of charger does one of those receiver packs your using need? I only have this one.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=pirahna+cx-10&FVPROFIL=++

Changing the batteries in the receiver sucks. Can I use the charger above with one of those hump pack batteries??

[electric130]

Originally posted by Sarge
Changing the batteries in the receiver sucks. Can I use the charger above with one of those hump pack batteries?? oh, sorry bout that. if that's the exact charger that you have, then no, you couldn't. the receiver pack that i have is NiMH and you need a charger that can handle them. they need to be charged differently than NiCd batteries. i have the following charger, i can charge just about anything on it:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTZ5&P=7

[Needler56]

a note on charging NiMH cells: it is best to peak charge them at 0.5 amps with a negative delta peak at 0.02 volts. if you can't adjust your voltage, then you must keep an eye on the temperature of your cells. you don't want them to get no more than warm, because if they get hot, they'll damage the cells and cause them to "vent" (i think in other words get really hot) otherwise the life of your cells will be reduced.

has anyone added ballbearings inside of their steering? the manual doesn't specify the dimensions of the plastic bushings, but i found on savage-central.com that they have an aluminum steering kit with 6X10 mm ball bearings. i'm assuming that those are the size of the plastic bushings??

[Sarge]

Thanx electric130 That's what I was looking for. I might have to pick one of those up. One question though. I see leads are needed. Which ones for a battery for the roto start and which one for a 5 cell hump pack. Thanx again

[electric130]

this is the exact RX pack that i have (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/838361.asp) it came with the leads for the charger. i just had to put banana plugs on the leads for the charger. i got those at RadioShack for $2.50/pair. they are solderless connectors. (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F003%5F001%5F006&product%5Fid=274%2D721) and for the roto-start, you use a standard 7.2v battery pack with standard connectors. i think i paid $11 for my pack and it's 1500mAhr. you'll get a good half gallon of starts out of one charge, if not more. i used mine everyday for a week and it still didn't need charging. for the charging leads, this is the same thing i have (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGG99&P=7) it's nice that it comes with both male and female, although you'll only need the one. also, the charger that i posted that i have is a "field charger" and needs a 12V input. i have a 5A 12V power supply i run mine off at home. if you don't have a 12V power supply, you'll either have to buy one, run the charger in your car, or buy a different charger.

[electric130]

i got a heat gun finally. when the truck has been running hard, like on a track or something, the engine is usually around 320deg F. is that normal? i've been waiting till it gets upto around 200 before i run it after a cold start. is this a good idea, or does it not matter?

[electric130]

just talked to my LHS and they said the motor should run about 270-290. :confused: looks like i've got some tuning to do.

[Boxxer]

Yea, richen it up. Even 290 would be kinda high. If youre running a SUV body you might not have enough holes cut in it...

About running after a cold start.. i dont think it matters much either way. But your engine is running lean so that lack of lubrication is really whats going to hurt it.

[Mossdog]

Well my truck was originally a .21 Savage, many upgrades later its a .26! Its totally refreshed and waiting for the warm weather for break in! I put new plastics everywhere from a .25RTR. I like the improvements HPI made by putting gussets at the hinge pin stops on the skidplates! check out my webpage for lots of pics!
www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[electric130]

Mossdog, sweet truck! Just spent the last few minutes viewing your website. Nice stuff there! Is there anyway you could expand on the header fuel tank mod and give a list of parts and steps on how to do it? I'd appreciate it.

Well, I just got done tuning the 25 again. went back to factory settings and truck would only get to ~185. leaned it out till i was getting no more than 250 after long periods of full throttle. man, buying the heat gun was definitely worth the money. it probably saved my truck!! according to the directions, as long as there's a trail of smoke at full throttle, your fuel mixture isn't too lean. well, i had plenty of smoke at full throttle when i was hitting 320-330, but obviously my fuel wasn't right if it was running that hot! glad i caught and learned this now instead of after i burnt up the motor. truck's performance is only slightly less than it was before, barely noticable. still plenty fast for me. if i want more for racing or something, i'll look into a bigger motor.

[electric130]

this pic doesn't show too much damage, but it's time for a new body:

http://49web.uncc.edu/~jreaton/RC%20Pics/Savage%2025%20Blue%20Ford.JPG

[Mossdog]

Thanks!!!

For the header tank mod here is what I purchased. Hayes 2 oz airplane tank. I custom made the mounting bracket at work from some spare aluminum. Simple enough design I guess, I simply drilled a couple holes in it and used tie-wraps to hold the tank in position. If you set it up besure that the fuel outlet on the header tank is LEVEL with the fuel nipple on the carb. I wont be using the set up now that I have the rear-pick up fuel tank on the Savage. I think I will mod the header tank onto the NMT when I squeeze the .21BB into for a little longer run times.

[electric130]

Originally posted by Mossdog
Thanks!!!

For the header tank mod here is what I purchased. Hayes 2 oz airplane tank. I custom made the mounting bracket at work from some spare aluminum. Simple enough design I guess, I simply drilled a couple holes in it and used tie-wraps to hold the tank in position. If you set it up besure that the fuel outlet on the header tank is LEVEL with the fuel nipple on the carb. I wont be using the set up now that I have the rear-pick up fuel tank on the Savage. I think I will mod the header tank onto the NMT when I squeeze the .21BB into for a little longer run times. isn't the self leaning more of a problem with the 21's and not the 25's? just thought that's what i had read, but not positive. i don't seem to have a leaning problem with my new 25, but at the same time, i wouldn't mind longer run times without having to worry about fill-ups.

[electric130]

had to change folders around and above pic doesn't work anymore. here's another (if pics don't show up, right click the red X and select "Show Picture". that should work):

http://49web.uncc.edu/~jreaton/TRUCKP~1/SAVAGE~3.JPG

and the new body i just finished painting:
http://49web.uncc.edu/~jreaton/TRUCKP~1/SAVAGE~1.JPG

[Mossdog]

Nice looking truck electric!

Check out the skirting system I recently developed for the Savage.....a little more testing and some tweaking and it should be ready to race!

[electric130]

Originally posted by Mossdog
Nice looking truck electric!

Check out the skirting system I recently developed for the Savage.....a little more testing and some tweaking and it should be ready to race! Thanks. Looks good on your end, but what is the purpose of the "skirt"? Sorry if that's a dumb question. I've just gotten back into RC after about 10 years of being out of it. So much has changed and I'm still learning.:confused:

[Mossdog]

Basically the idea sprung from the skidplates I make. The priciple is similar to the skirts on 1/8 scale buggys. It keeps debris and dirt kicked up by the front tires from blasting itself up into the chassis and drivetrain by diverting it away from the truck. The other benefits are the protection of the brake assembly due to the skirts being a complete one piece unit integrated into the center skidplate. With a small hole cut for the exhaust deflector all exhaust juice will be diverted under the truck 100%.
On buggys the skirts tuck up underneath the body, unfortunately with the Savage being a monster truck that was not possible, well not practical I guess even with the body slammed to its lowest mounting position. The sides would have to be over 3 inches tall, making tooling complicated, and it would be a weak design, not to mention ugly. I flared the edges of the skirts to further deflect debris underneath the truck. Hope that helps answer your question.

[spy5870]

hey mossdog.. sick truck! nice mods also :D and is that sticker on the tank guard calvin pissing on "t-maxx"?! LOL if it is!! lol even if it isnt cuz thats what i'm seeing!!! thats some nice work there man. whats the deal with the linkage though?? i don't get how that would work...

[cduna]

Here is 1st pics of my Savage



Savage W/lights (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=23346)

[electric130]

Originally posted by cduna
Here is 1st pics of my Savage



Savage W/lights (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=23346) link doesn't work

[cduna]

put in r c p i c s where the ****** are and it will work ..

[electric130]

Originally posted by cduna
put in r c p i c s where the ****** are and it will work .. WHY IS IT THAT THIS BB DOES THAT? IT'S SO STUPID!!!:mad: i had pics hosted on a website in a folder named r c pics and it would block the folder name with ***'s it was so annoying. i had to redo the folder structure and fix all the links to get the pics to show up. it's annoying!:mad:

[cduna]

i agree

[2mcgrath]

im buying a savage 25 rtr tomorrow..my buddy bought a xfactor last week which does great..i hope the savage will do that good..also i was wondering can you take that rod out of the roto start and use it in a cordless drill??looks like the cordless drill would have a little more starting power?

[electric130]

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
im buying a savage 25 rtr tomorrow..my buddy bought a xfactor last week which does great..i hope the savage will do that good..also i was wondering can you take that rod out of the roto start and use it in a cordless drill??looks like the cordless drill would have a little more starting power? yes you could, but on a 1500 batt pack, i got about 10 cold starts out of it no problem. i probably could have gotten more, but i went a head and through it on the charger. also, i don't know if a drill would spin fast enough. haven't compared RPM's or anything, but the Roto Start spins pretty fast. would going any faster help/hurt starting the engine anyone know?

[2mcgrath]

went to pick up the truck today but it was sold out that figures..but he is suppose to have me one in tomorrow so i will be getting it tomorrow..my cordless drill i was speaking of is a 7.2 volt so looks like it would also work great for cranking it but i dont know..i will try it out soon as i get my truck home..i will let you guys know if it works pretty good or not..anything i should know about this truck before my first few runs with it?

[electric130]

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
went to pick up the truck today but it was sold out that figures..but he is suppose to have me one in tomorrow so i will be getting it tomorrow..my cordless drill i was speaking of is a 7.2 volt so looks like it would also work great for cranking it but i dont know..i will try it out soon as i get my truck home..i will let you guys know if it works pretty good or not..anything i should know about this truck before my first few runs with it? don't know if that drill will have the torque needed. i thought you were speaking of a higher power drill like the 15.6V drill that i have. you could always try it and see. let us know. that sucks that they were sold out. take your time breaking the engine in. get a heat gun if you don't have one. mine took almost a half gallon before it started showing it's true colors and power. it's awesome now though.

[Redbullrider111]

Yesterday 2/5/04 I ordered my Savage 25 RTR from Tower Hobbies. I ordered it, a new glow ignitor, and some other stuff. It ran me about 411.00 because Tower has a special there right now that if you spend more then 299 you will get 25.00 off of your order so the savage alone would be about 375.00 or so. But I am really looking forward to when it comes in. I already have a Tower Hobbies ST-15 and I bet the Savage 25 will stomp it into the ground. I just cant wait.

[2mcgrath]

i got my truck today havent got to run it though yet we are getting plenty of rain and snow so it may be a few days but that will give me time to go over everything..i have a temp gun ordered and on the way..this truck looks awesome i love it and havent even runned it yet..whats up with the 4 channel receiver?i know the 3rd channel is for the reverse if you want it..also how good are these trucks about everything being good and tight or should i go over everything and loctight it?also how do you guys get the throttle return spring to pull the throttle all the way shut mine doesnt?and how about the fuel tank being alittle floppy should it be shimmed to take up some of the flop?thanks guys and also i will try the drill idea when i get a chance to see how it works and will let you guys know..

[Monsterbrad]

Hey guys I am new to this forum, Jusy got the savage 25 and a new Menace the other day. Broke in the savage and it runs great but I did manage to take out the spur gear cause the engine moved a little on one of my 7 or 8 foot jumps over my head off a snow pile which was awesome. About the fuel tank I noticed that it was a little sloppy so i shimed it up so its tight with a little movement to prevent breakage. But any how the rest of the truck was pretty good had to go over all the screws after break in and running for about 9 tanks then the spur stripped. Has anybody had any problems with the low speed setting mine was four stroking alot when it was ideling down so I richened the low end and it made it a little better but it was also about 20 degrees here so there is alot of O2 for the little engine to breath.
So far so good other than the stripped spur but the replacement is on the way. Also has anybody changed the servo linkages on the throttle and brake do any of you guys have and mods that you are willing to share I am up grading the steering with Ofna stuff but the throttle needs a little help to along with that cheesy return spring.

[2mcgrath]

yeah i got two steps of my break in done today on mine.. but it was so cold and snowing here i couldnt finish so i hope to finish break in tomorrow just like one more step..then i can tune for power.. im eager to see how the truck will run tuned in.. i know what you mean about the throttle return spring i cant get mine working right ethier..also my throttle is off period even with my radio trimmed all the way it still wants to go by itself and it isnt the idling..i went over all my screws and didnt find to many loose..what are you guys doing on your bodies to be able to use the handle with the body on without hacking it up to bad?

[electric130]

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
..what are you guys doing on your bodies to be able to use the handle with the body on without hacking it up to bad? what handle? i don't think mine has a handle.

[2mcgrath]

the aluminum handle on the truck.. what i done was just cut my rear window some so i could use the handle with the body on.i got break in done today and ran about 3 more tanks after break in and the friggin spur gear has allready stripped..but the truck runs awesome once tuned in other than the spur gear..i went to hpi's website to price one but when i type in the part number for the spur in my manuel it pulls up a clutch bell..the part number works at tower hobbies but not hpi so is that the right part number when i order?oh and about the 4 stroking you were talking about mine was doing the same exact thing today and i just kept messing with the bottom end and the idling and got it cured..and once while driving i lost all control of the truck the steering or anything wouldnt work so i finally got the truck stopped in some bushes and shut it off picked it up and it still wouldnt steer or anything..so i turned the truck and controller off and waited a few minutes and turned it back on and it steered fine any idea what this could have been i was playing in a little snow..

[electric130]

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
the aluminum handle on the truck.. what i done was just cut my rear window some so i could use the handle with the body on. that's not a handle, it's the roll bar :D it's there so you don't damage the internals of the truck. i just carry the truck by the bumpers. i wouldn't want to cut the body just be able to carry it by the roll bar. about the loss of control, are you running alkalines or NiMH cells? how many tanks had you run when you lost control?

i stripped my spur gear about half way through my first gallon. replaced it and i'm almost finished with my second gallon. i don't think they're adjusted right from the factory and that's why they strip. i have rechecked mine and it's still where it needs to be. maybe new owners should adjust their's and see if the first spur gear still strips.

[Monsterbrad]

hey guys I think that the spur gears are stripping out becuase of the mesh being to far out from the factory.You should probably set the mesh around 4 to 5 thousands the thickness of you average piece of paper and that probably will cure the problem. I am going to try this and also adjust the slipper to the book specs and see how it holds up.Mike at Speed Zone Race way said that the steel spurs should be out soon.
My truck also took off on me but I just figured it was to far away for the cheesy am radio that comes with the truck.I am also running the 4 cell reciever pack no NiMH here yet but they are comming soon for both my rides.
Does anybody else have any sugestions for this truck for the new guys here that just bought the 25????????????

[electric130]

Originally posted by Monsterbrad
hey guys I think that the spur gears are stripping out becuase of the mesh being to far out from the factory.You should probably set the mesh around 4 to 5 thousands the thickness of you average piece of paper and that probably will cure the problem. I am going to try this and also adjust the slipper to the book specs and see how it holds up. i set my second gear this way and it hasn't stripped in 1.5 gallons of fuel.

Originally posted by Monsterbrad
Mike at Speed Zone Race way said that the steel spurs should be out soon. i doubt i'll use the steel gears. if things are adjusted properly, the gears shouldn't strip. the way i look at it is that the gear strips because of high torque for some odd reason, or something out of adjustment. i'd rather replace a $4 spur gear than something more expensive.

Originally posted by Monsterbrad
My truck also took off on me but I just figured it was to far away for the cheesy am radio that comes with the truck.I am also running the 4 cell reciever pack no NiMH here yet but they are comming soon for both my rides. if you're comparing the stock AM radio to an FM radio, then of course it's cheesey. if you're comparing it to other AM radios, i think it's pretty good. better than the one that comes with the T-MAXX's. it's a Futaba radio system.

Originally posted by Monsterbrad
Does anybody else have any sugestions for this truck for the new guys here that just bought the 25???????????? along the same lines as the spur gear, i'm gonna keep most of my parts stock plastic. the only things i might upgrade to alluminum are the lower control arms. i broke 2 within the first week i owned the truck, but it was also before i learned to air walk. another suggestion would be to replace the stock air filter with a motor saver. the first thing i'd recommend doing though is pitching the stock AA receiver batts and get a 5-cell hump pack and replace the stock power switch with a new one that has a charge port. that's all i've done so far except get new bodies (not crazy about the stock body, working on painting my 3rd body)

oh, on a side note, my throttle servo just died. i'm not even finished with 2 gallons yet and it already died. putting a Futaba BB in there tonight. i want to replace the steering servo too, but the one i want is $40 at the LHS, so i'll have to wait awhile.

[2mcgrath]

well i converted my rollbar into a handle to works very nice for that also :p.i was looking on hpi website about making the throttle return spring work like it should and found out how.. you have to drill a new hole in your rollbar/handle to make it work and run your spring different works like a charm im almost finished doing that go to fourms at hpi site and under savage i think its the second one from the bottom take that link and you will see what im talking about .. they have a pic of it done on a savage..i was looking at maybe later going to steel spur but what you guys said does make since about maybe they didnt do it right at the factory..im thinking mine might have been built on a friday or a monday lol..friday they are in a hurry to get off work and get done so they just sling the stuff together and monday they are still recooperating from the weekend and dont turn out good work lol..oh and also im using alkalines right now..i had went through about 5 tanks including break in but like i said i cut it off the truck and radio and when i turned it back on it was fine..i thought maybe something got wet when i was playing in the snow..this is my very first savage.. i had a couple tmaxxs just dont have the fun factor as the big blocks do and also i have a ofna lx pro which is alot of fun to..other than it eating diffs..

[electric130]

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
well i converted my rollbar into a handle to works very nice for that also :p. hey man, whatever works for you :D personally, i'd rather carry it by the bumpers. i already hate cutting my bodies as much as i have to now for the engine and fuel tank. but that's what this hobby is about. you buy something and make it yours. as long as you have fun, that's all that matters.

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
i was looking on hpi website about making the throttle return spring work like it should and found out how.. you have to drill a new hole in your rollbar/handle to make it work and run your spring different works like a charm im almost finished doing that go to fourms at hpi site and under savage i think its the second one from the bottom take that link and you will see what im talking about .. they have a pic of it done on a savage.

Throttle Mod (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=61610) it took me a little while to find it, so i though i'd help out and post the link. great idea, i'll be drilling today.

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
i was looking at maybe later going to steel spur but what you guys said does make since about maybe they didnt do it right at the factory..im thinking mine might have been built on a friday or a monday lol..friday they are in a hurry to get off work and get done so they just sling the stuff together and monday they are still recooperating from the weekend and dont turn out good work lol. mine must have been made on a friday too. since changing the gear, i haven't broke it yet, and i've been getting more aggressive with my driving as i get a better feel for the truck too.

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
oh and also im using alkalines right now..i had went through about 5 tanks including break in but like i said i cut it off the truck and radio and when i turned it back on it was fine..i thought maybe something got wet when i was playing in the snow..this is my very first savage. i have driven mine in the snow with no problems. the cold weather can sometimes make batteries seem to loose their charge quicker. if you turned it off and turned it back on in a little while, that brief moment of no power can allow the batteries to regain a little charge. i highly recommend going to the hump receiver pack. your servo response will be a lot better too, but just the fact that you don't have to tear apart your radio compartment to change the stupid batteries was enough reason for me to make the swap.

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
i had a couple tmaxxs just dont have the fun factor as the big blocks do and also i have a ofna lx pro which is alot of fun to..other than it eating diffs.. i've known more T-maxx's to have problems than Savages. my friend has a first gen Tmaxx, but he's getting a Savage next month. he learned his lesson.

[2mcgrath]

i would have put the link to that return spring mod but i didnt know how..but it does work because i got mine finished up and it works like it should now..electric did you use the part number in your manuel when you ordered your spur gear?and to use the roll bar as a handle all i done was cut the sliding window part out of the rear of my body to be able to use it as a handle still looks good to..

[electric130]

i didn't order my spur gear. i just went to my LHS and bought 2. i have no idea what the part number is. you can go to HPI's site and use their online parts diagram. the stock Savage 25 has a 49 tooth spur gear, but i put on the Savage 21 52 tooth gear. here's a link to it, same price i paid at my LHS, but i bought 2 replacements the same day i bought the truck:

52 tooth spur gear (http://www.hpiracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BH&Product_Code=76942)

same one from tower (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLC0&P=7)

couldn't find the 49 tooth on HPI's site or tower's. that's wierd.

new body i'm working on (http://www.freewebs.com/electric130-rc/paint1.htm)

second page (http://www.freewebs.com/electric130-rc/paint2.htm)

[2mcgrath]

good looking body..i found the 49 at tower hobbies using the part number in my manuel which is 76939..but when i type that part number in at hpi's site it pulls up a 18 tooth clutchbell..and i dont ever order at tower i always order from my local hobby shop..

[electric130]

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
good looking body..i found the 49 at tower hobbies using the part number in my manuel which is 76939..but when i type that part number in at hpi's site it pulls up a 18 tooth clutchbell..and i dont ever order at tower i always order from my local hobby shop.. the one at tower is correct. HPI doesn't have the new Savage 25 parts on their site. their listing is for the 21. the reason that clutch bell comes up is because it references the spur gear part number in the description. my LHS stocks all the Savage parts, so i don't have to order them. so far, spur gears, lower suspension arms and glow plugs are the only things i've had to change.

[2mcgrath]

how did that 52 tooth spur affect yours?did it cut down on the wheelies or what?

[electric130]

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
how did that 52 tooth spur affect yours?did it cut down on the wheelies or what? mine didn't do wheelies before the gear change and it still doesn't now unless you're going up hill, but that's the way i want it. you're loosing speed and have no steering durring wheelies. theoretically, you'll have more low end torque with more teeth on the spur gear so you'd have more wheelies. i haven't swapped my clutch bell though, so maybe that's why?

[2mcgrath]

so i guess it shaved alittle off your top speed then right?i liked the way mine was geared with the 49 is why im wondering how it affected it going to the 52 spur or is it really noticable?

[electric130]

Originally posted by 2mcgrath
so i guess it shaved alittle off your top speed then right?i liked the way mine was geared with the 49 is why im wondering how it affected it going to the 52 spur or is it really noticable? if it did, it's so small that you won't even notice. if you're going to race dirt tracks, it would be better to have more low end.

[Monsterbrad]

Well guys got the truck all broken in and have been thrashing the H*ll out of it and had problems. GOt the new spur in and adjusted right this time.I managed to trash the stock throttle servo or at least got it wet enough that it would not work anymore,also the stock radio started to act up but I think that the reviever got a little wet when I was jumping it in the snow.Put the XR3i in there and the reciever is in a balloon soo there was no problems after that.The engine seems to have decent power right around 212 degrees and max power around 220 230 range I don't like to push it any harder than that cause I hold it WOT to do back flips over the jump in the neighbors yard looks awesome flying off a snow pile about 8 ft in the air while doing a back flip just like on slapmafro site.I can stand underneath it while I jump it.....its the coolest thing I have ever done with an RC Truck this thing jumps like a dirt bike its so cool.
Any way going to change the steering around to Ofna stuff and I am going to work on the throttle linkage also seems to be a little sticky at times and I don't like that.
HAs anybody put on a fuel filter yet I have been told that it doesn't realy matter that much but I don't think it hurts.
So far so good some of the problems I have been having is probably because of the cold weather and being a little wet.
water and electronics never work well together.

[2mcgrath]

i had some problems after playing in the snow with mine but they cured theirselfs..so you didnt strip the spur gear after break in your lucky..i havent put on a fuel filter yet but i do plan to just for added protection..but your right the motor in it does make good power..

[Monsterbrad]

Well here goes again...
After playing in the snow for a few hours I had major problems with the stock radio so I switched to my Xr3i wiht a baloon over te reciever and also switched the servo's to airtronics high torque and standard.I also changed the steering to the futaba ackerman set what a job that was lots os hand fitting and stuff like that. BUt it did how ever change the steering alot no more stupid slop and mich tighter. New spur gear installed and had to repair the rear fuel tank mount. Now the truck drives much better due to the steering change I would recomend this to all savage owners its about 20 bucks and well worth it much better control but there was a little fabrication that went into installing it.Full ball bearings make it much better.
Well happy pounding people I know I am having fun and lots of it the engine is pretty good for power for an rtr about the best I have seen yet.
DOes anybody have the makings for a skate board ramp I want to make one for the Savage.?????????

[electric130]

Originally posted by Monsterbrad
Well here goes again...
After playing in the snow for a few hours I had major problems with the stock radio so I switched to my Xr3i wiht a baloon over te reciever and also switched the servo's to airtronics high torque and standard.I also changed the steering to the futaba ackerman set what a job that was lots os hand fitting and stuff like that. BUt it did how ever change the steering alot no more stupid slop and mich tighter. New spur gear installed and had to repair the rear fuel tank mount. Now the truck drives much better due to the steering change I would recomend this to all savage owners its about 20 bucks and well worth it much better control but there was a little fabrication that went into installing it.Full ball bearings make it much better.
Well happy pounding people I know I am having fun and lots of it the engine is pretty good for power for an rtr about the best I have seen yet.
DOes anybody have the makings for a skate board ramp I want to make one for the Savage.????????? man, either you are abusing the heck out of that thing, or you just don't know how to drive!!:D j/k. i just cartwheeled mine across the driveway about 5 times, nose to tail, took out 2 of the landscape lights, almost took myself out and still didn't break anything. i hit the lip of my driveway (kind that curves up like a small ramp) at full speed in second gear and didn't have enough left to bring the nose up. front bumper hit and "thare she went" funny afterwards, but scary while happening. i saw replacement part costs flash before my eyes! i haven't had any problems with the stock radio except burning out the throttle servo after 1.5 gallons of fuel. i also just put a polished tuned HPI pipe on the motor, and a Motor-Saver air filter. the filter is huge! i tried breathing through both the new one and the stock filter (i just cleaned it yesterday) and the stock air filter was noticably more restrictive. it was warmer today than the last time i tuned the motor. the combination of the air filter and tuned pipe caused me to have to turn the high needled out a half a turn. this combo allowed so much more air in, the engine was too lean, even though it's warmer out. i tweaked it a littel here and there and hold the temp at 260, the truck was noticably faster. it's awesome! i also redid the fuel lines with neon green hose, installed a fuel filter and used neon green tie-straps on the exhaust. looks pretty sweet. i also did the throttle return spring modification. now the spring actually does its job! no more worries about the radio going out and the truck keeps on running.

[slaf]

Hi all !

I just got new HPI Savage 25RTR yesterday, now do you have any suggestion about a good rx pack for it ?

[electric130]

Originally posted by slaf
Hi all !

I just got new HPI Savage 25RTR yesterday, now do you have any suggestion about a good rx pack for it ? read my first post back on page 6. i don't know if it's the best, but it works.

[electric130]

i just put a set of Pro-Line Bow Tie 40's on the savage....man are they sweet. handling is greatly improved!!! acceleration is better, cornering is so much better too.

I put these rims (http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/wheels/2664/2664.html)
http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/wheels/2664/2664-01.jpg

and these tires on it. (http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/tires/1113/1113.html)
http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/tires/1113/1113.jpg

highly, highly recommended if you plan to race, but makes bashing even more fun too! if bashing is your only intention, then get the Big Joe 40 Series (http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/tires/1103/1103.html) the 40 series have a lower profile and won't roll over on you as much.

[2mcgrath]

my spur gears came in today so i have my motor and stuff off and getting ready to put it all back together i will be tearing up the yard again tomorrow for sure i had to also go with the 52 tooth couldnt get a 49 yet we(LHS) tried to order it to but didnt show up..i suggest everyone with a new savage 25 do the return spring mod works great..also i saw another topic on hpi's site about the antenna running it out the back window which keeps it from getting torn or ripped during rolls..im just wondering if it will affect radio range any??you drill a hole in the rear window away from the head and run your antenna tube under the crash bar and out the hole..would make for a cleaner looking body to..nice wheels electric

[electric130]

thanks. i don't have my digital camera with me, but when i get it back, i'll take pics of the new dubs. as far as the antenna goes, it doesn't matter the path of the antenna, just it's length. just like cell phones with the stub antenna. there's about 15cm of antenna inside there, just wound around and coiled up. that's why you don't want to cut your antenna wire. even if it's balled up in the radio compartment, it's still doing its job. i did the return spring mod, and i might have to try the antenna mod. i already had to replace one antenna tube, thankfully the antenna didn't break.

[slaf]

Electric130.....


Nice tires...Did you change your gear ratio ?

In a previous message, you talked about antenna about 15cm....Are you from Canada ? I'm just curious :confused:

[electric130]

Originally posted by slaf
Electric130.....


Nice tires...Did you change your gear ratio ?

In a previous message, you talked about antenna about 15cm....Are you from Canada ? I'm just curious :confused: no, i didn't have to change any gears since the new wheels are essentially the same size as the old ones as far as overall diameter. they're actually slightly smaller. no i'm not from canada. the 15cm thing is because i had to design a cell phone antenna for a engineering project once and the length of our antenna was 15.7 cm. we designed and fabricated the antennas on silicon wafers in an electronics clean room. cool project and fun.

[fullmetallstpro]

just bought my savage25 from my brother. he started the breaking but only got half a tank through. and quit on it.so i bought it . need to know the steps for break in. he lost the books to it so im just not sure about it. dont want to hurt it if i can help it

anybody HELP

[2mcgrath]

ok first step is to sit the truck with wheels off the ground and set your throttle about a 1/4 or so and let it idle through one whole tank..steps 2 and 3 are the same drive it in about a 20 foot circle no more than half throttle..give it throttle let out coast give it throttle let out coast for 2 tanks..then its ready to go tune it for power..oh and the break in setting's are 4 1/2 high speed and i think 3 on low speed..oh and electric i broke my stock antenna tube like wise thats why i was liking the idea of the antenna mod that plus the clean looking body..yeah get some pics up with the new meats on so we can take a look..

[electric130]

Originally posted by fullmetallstpro
just bought my savage25 from my brother. he started the breaking but only got half a tank through. and quit on it.so i bought it . need to know the steps for break in. he lost the books to it so im just not sure about it. dont want to hurt it if i can help it

anybody HELP follow what 2mcgrath said, but make sure you get a temp gun. i didn't at first and just followed the directions. according to the directions, i was good, but when i checked the temps, i was about 60-70 deg over ideal temps. they're worth the $25. it's either $25 for a temp gun or $150+ for a new motor.

[2mcgrath]

electric i got my temp gun today what temps are you running?i was thinking around 250 or so and also will this be the same with most other motors asking because i have a ofna buggy i want to get dailed in also..oh yeah and also when is best time to take the temp this is my first temp gun..like is it better to do some high speed passes and then check it or run it out of fuel then check right after?

[electric130]

yeah, if you're running 20%, you should run at 250-270 if you're running the motor at pretty much full throttle the whole time. i'm having a hard time keeping my temps down even with the motor running pretty rich. i think for my next gallon of fuel, i'm going to try some 20% with 18% oil. that should help. might smoke a little more, but who cares. i'm still thinking real hard about swapping the motors out. can't decide if i want to spend the dough on that now or just wait till the stock motor dies.

[Monsterbrad]

Hey electric I have a question you said that your truck is running a little hot I have you cut out the back window and front winshield both just a little bit on the engine side.For anybody that has not done this or thinks I am stupid for mentioning it sorry for you guys that have already done this.
It makes a huge difference in engine temp.Of yes and when checkin temp with a temp gun I always aim for the glow plug. My engine runs around 220 or cooler and rips. I am going to try the motor saver air filter soon.
Has anybody else fried the stock steering servo I know a few people that have and I know one of u mentioned this a while ago on here.
Oh yes and just for the record I am pounding the Sh*t out of the truck !!!!!!
After all its a Monster truck it likes it:D
Later guys happy Savagin
oh yeah anybody else try a steering up grade like I did yet?????

[Sarge]

Originally posted by electric130
i might have to try the antenna mod. i already had to replace one antenna tube, thankfully the antenna didn't break.

I haven't seen anything about an antenna mod. Could somebody explain please??? Thanx

[2mcgrath]

you just take your antenna tube and run it under your crash bar and drill a hole in your rear window away from the head and run it out that way..then the antenna wont get ripped or torn off during rolls or crashs..i have part of my rear window cut out and about a 1 inch hole in my windsheild.i was out testing today and dailing with the temp gun best i could get was about 245 to 257 and still have the motor run good..

[Sarge]

Will have to try that when I get a new antenna tube. Mine broke today. LOL

[fullmetallstpro]

is it unussual for this truck to idle 4 an hour and a half on a tank of fuel. if so how long should i get on normall running. its rainning off and on here so i try to get it in between showers. sucks




mighty anxious to she what shes got in her. seems to have a little grunt to her.

[Monsterbrad]

Hello again guys
Hey the engine ran in mine for almost an hour or so when I broke it in on the stand.I kept the temp right around 130 the whole time using the leaf blower yes you read correctly the leaf blower that was the only way I could keep the temp down. Got that Idea from Mike at Speed Zone raceway in TN where I get all my stuff.
The tank in this truck is pretty big so expect break in to take a while but remember the longer you take cycling the temps the better the break in will be for the engine.
130 for the first ideling tank
then just progress up from there till you get to the fifth tank or so then go for the 200 250 mark with this engine it seems to like temp a little bit and wont run good till it gets there.
I have mine running around 212 at the plug maybe a little higher at times when I am realy holding WOT on it but I like to keep things rich cause they last longer when you run them rich.
Plus its cold up here in PA right now so I am running extra rich.
Have a good one !!!!!

[2mcgrath]

yeah i know what you guys mean about break in..i didnt think mine was ever gonna finish the first tank on the stand idling..it was blowing snow here the day i broke mine in so i was pretty anixous for it to run out of fuel on the idling deal..i got some shock socks installed on mine today and i put a fuel tube handle on my fuel tank the other day..and i have also done the return spring mod..oh and also a fuel filter i installed saturday..what are you guys doing for upgrades and mods on your new 25 savage?

[Sarge]

I have a new Nova head on the way. Put on a new pipe, a tank guard and had a nice body painted for me.

[Monsterbrad]

I up graded the steering to ofna stuff with ball bearings like I said earlier on the posts. Works great but takes a little fabrication to get it in there. Installed a fuel filter and a pipe will be next.
Oh yes and the stock body is still taking punishment but getting beat up pretty good.

[2mcgrath]

how big of a difference did the pipes make for you guys?thats the next upgrade i plan on doing cause the stock pipe is a little loud for my liking and its plastic dont like that ethier..

[Monsterbrad]

I am not sure what pipe I am going to get yet. Money is always an issue along with performance. High speed and low end torque are always factors to. I was looking at the ringed pipe that comes with the SS version or maybe a rossi pipe or whatever Mike at speed zone advizes me to go with he sells almost all nitro stuff and has sold a ton of savages.
I'll let you guys know what my decision is but it won't be for a while yet still pounding the Sh*t out of it with the stock pipe which seems ok. I am also going to change the air filter that was mentioned in here before and makes a big dif I guess that will be before the pipe mod.
later

[Sarge]

I put on the motor saver air filter. It seemed to help a bit. Here's question for you guys. I am thinking about the reverse kit for my savage and also a new steering servo. Can I take the stock steering servo and use that for the reverse and upgrade to a better steering servo??? Is it good enough or should I just buy 2 new servos?? LMK will ya. Thanx

P.S. I talked to the guy at my LHS and he told me a good thing to do with the antenna is to take like an old credit card or something similar, cut some notches in it and keep wrapping the antenna around it until it is at the end, without overlapping the wires at any time. Use some electical tape to secure it, and then velcro it to the top of the receiver box. He told me that this mod works as well as anything. What do you all think??

[Monsterbrad]

Hey sarge!

The servo thing is a good idea use the stock steering one for the throttle and the other stock one for you reverse module,buy the way let us know how the reverse thing works I was also thinking about that but I am performance junky so its not realy my bag but would be nice to back up at times rather than walkin over to it. Any way the radio antenna idea is good but range will suffer from that I tried it and the the range sucked. I bought some radio antenna from the hobby shop a while ago I have no clue what kind it is buts its kinda soft and doesn't break off I have tried this tubing in the very cold like below 20 degrees and it doesn't break off with it going through the roof of the truck.I have had it land on the roof after a 7 or 8 foot jump in the air and not break off the stuff is great but in the summer its kinda soft so I change back to the other kind. These tubes come in bright neon colors if that helps anybodys LHS.
Let me know how you make out sarge I could hook you up with one of these if you need it badly and your LHS can't help.
Or I can find out what kind they are.

[Sarge]

Why move the stock steering to the throttle and use the stock throttle for the reverse??? Are they different or something?? Thanx and I will let you know about the antenna thing.

[electric130]

Originally posted by Monsterbrad
Hey electric I have a question you said that your truck is running a little hot I have you cut out the back window and front winshield both just a little bit on the engine side.For anybody that has not done this or thinks I am stupid for mentioning it sorry for you guys that have already done this.yeah, i have a 1.25" diameter hole cut out of the front and rear window. i have been running Monster Power Fuel which only has 12% oil. i just got some new fuel last night that's 14%, so we'll see how that goes.

Originally posted by Monsterbrad
Has anybody else fried the stock steering servo I know a few people that have and I know one of u mentioned this a while ago on here.....oh yeah anybody else try a steering up grade like I did yet????? not the steering servo, but i fried the throttle. replaced it with a Futaba 3004 with BB's. i replaced the steering servo with a Hi-Tec 645 MG. 130 oz/in of torque! it will turn the wheels lock-to-lock sitting on pavement with the truck sitting still.

[electric130]

Originally posted by fullmetallstpro
is it unussual for this truck to idle 4 an hour and a half on a tank of fuel. if so how long should i get on normall running. its rainning off and on here so i try to get it in between showers. sucks

mighty anxious to she what shes got in her. seems to have a little grunt to her. yes, that long of an idle time is normal. should get 10-15 minutes per tank running it hard. the motor will take about 10 tanks and some fuel mix tweaking before it shows it's true colors, but when it does, make sure you have a tight handle on the controls!

[electric130]

Originally posted by Monsterbrad
Hello again guys
Hey the engine ran in mine for almost an hour or so when I broke it in on the stand.I kept the temp right around 130 the whole time using the leaf blower yes you read correctly the leaf blower that was the only way I could keep the temp down. Got that Idea from Mike at Speed Zone raceway in TN where I get all my stuff.
The tank in this truck is pretty big so expect break in to take a while but remember the longer you take cycling the temps the better the break in will be for the engine.
130 for the first ideling tank
then just progress up from there till you get to the fifth tank or so then go for the 200 250 mark with this engine it seems to like temp a little bit and wont run good till it gets there.
I have mine running around 212 at the plug maybe a little higher at times when I am realy holding WOT on it but I like to keep things rich cause they last longer when you run them rich.
Plus its cold up here in PA right now so I am running