Tamiya TT-01 Racing

[SteveK]

Has anybody tried the TT-01 as a rally car? I'm wondering if it would at least be sufficient on a dirt oval, with a mild suspension lift and the right tires. I think I have sold my friend at work on getting one, and I will try and get my LHS to let me make some temporary barriers for the dirt oval for out own class on race nights.

[SteveK]

Anybody? Andybody? Beuller? Beuller? Frye?

[DaLurker]

Just a few questions regarding hopups.

1) Where does the carbon upper body frame mount and what does it do?
2) Tamiya Turn Buckle... where does that go and what does that do?
3) Front one way... what the? # 53671
4) Aluminum steering set? Is that a whole aluminium steering assembly?
5) Adjustaable upper arm? What the?
6) What's the front and rear stabilizer set?

[TRF Drive Hard]

1. Just as implied... upper deck... stiffens the chassis
2. Replaces the steering plastic with adjustable toe-in toe-out
3. Replaces the stock diff in the front... the wheels move foward only when spinning...
4. The wipers are aluminum...
5. Adjustable turnbuckles for adjusting the camber
6. Sway bars that are mounted in the front/rear to help stabilize the car...

[cheerwhiner]

I just replaced all the electronics on the xb rtr. I like the power switch it came with so I actually soldered that to the wire for the switch on a novak racer esc. It has a p2k2 but that motor is going back in my ta04 once i put it together, so i am thinking of putting in that tower hobbies 14 turn motor in this tt-01 :)

[yoda_sez]

Related to SteveK's post, has anybody tried fitting the TB01 upper chassis cover to this chassis?

[TRF Drive Hard]

I dont see how it can fit...

[cheerwhiner]

isn't there a tt01 upper chassis?

[DaLurker]

isn't there a tt01 upper chassis?

Yep

Part Number: 53672
Description: Tamiya Carbon Upper Frame

[GA Maxx]

found my next shell then the 350Z :D

[GA Maxx]

I am trying to locate some hop ups for my TT-01 and I cannot find them. I have saw them on Dave56Bug car I want:

GPM Racing Aluminium blue Battery bar
GPM Racing Aluminium blue Front upper arms
GPM Racing Aluminium blue Front lower arms

Does anyone know where I can get these parts, Ebay has none :(

Please anyone, you help will be greatly appreciated

Does Dave still come on this forum?

[turbo s15]

http://www.asiatees.com/ has everything


www.rcmart.com

[DaLurker]

Just wondering, I got a 20t motor to replace the stock 27t motor. I'm still using the stock 19t Pinion and 61T spur, any ideas whether I should upgrade the pinion and spur gears in order to get a higher top speed? OR leave it as stock?

[GA Maxx]

asia tees dont have the aluminium brace :(

[turbo s15]

if u want higher top speed u should get the spur gear set 55t/58t set and use the 58t spur with like a 21 or 22 steel metric pinion im using a 58t/24 pinion and it works great but then again i have a 13t motor so not really sure.



hey does anyone have the sway bars yet? tower doesnt have them yet :mad:



turbo :cool:

[DaLurker]

Well I asked a guy at my LHS, and he suggested I stick with my 61T and go with a 21T pinion, which is working out fairly well right now. Definately better than the 61T/19T combination.

[geist_darkblade]

I am going to get a TT-01 to race in the TCS TL01 spec class. But I think I'll try stock class after that. Should I get the GPM aluminium lower arms? What batteries are best for a stock motor? Should I get the front one-way diff.? Should I put aluminium shocks on? Do you think someone will make blue aluminium universals? These hop-ups are for the stock class.

[TRF Drive Hard]

If you plan to race the tcs, you wont be able to use those gpm parts... unless youre gonna swap it out before the race ;)

[geist_darkblade]

The parts are for after I race in the TCS. I fugure I would start with the spec class. If I enjoy racing then try a stock class. I would really like to get help figuring out how to set it up for a stock class ahead of time. I am going to use motors and saddle pack batteries from Peak. I am also putting the carbon fiber top deck on for the stock class. I'm getting ball bearing and the shocks that are aproved for TCS racing when I get my TT-01.

[SteveK]

My advice, based on common sense:
- Stay away from aluminum parts for a race car. It is usually heavier than the plastic it replaces, and can actually hamper durability by causing other parts to break on impacts.

- Aluminum shocks are almost always much smoother, and will last longer, than similar plastic shocks, but they cost over twice as much. About $20 for plastic versus $50 for Tamiya 4-packs.

- One ways are a tuning item, not a hop-up, so see if your particular local track is right for them.

- Universals are good, especially up front, where they make the most difference.

The key to stock class racing is to make the car light and efficient, to make the most of the (Theoretically) limited power supply. However, the biggest key to all of racing is driving: You'll do better with a near stock TT-01 and lots of track time than you would with a full-option TT-01 alone. Spend the most of your time and money on the track, not browing catalogues and hobby shop shelves.



The parts are for after I race in the TCS. I fugure I would start with the spec class. If I enjoy racing then try a stock class. I would really like to get help figuring out how to set it up for a stock class ahead of time. I am going to use motors and saddle pack batteries from Peak. I am also putting the carbon fiber top deck on for the stock class. I'm getting ball bearing and the shocks that are aproved for TCS racing when I get my TT-01.

[geist_darkblade]

Thanks for the advice. I may get the blue aluminium shocks Tamiya make. I think I should get the aluminium driveshaft and the adjustable upper arms and the toe in rear hubs or rear uprights. Probaly should get the ball bearing diffs also. R/C Car says it realy helps with the stock racing to make the car more adjustable.

[DaLurker]

I'm thinking about getting oil dampened shocks. Now I was wondering which ones would you guys recommend? I've called in and found CVA Mini shocks with clear body for $20 CDN, how would those perform? What kind of springs should I get? Otherwise should I splurge and spend $100 on the Aluminum flouride shocks?

[TRF Drive Hard]

LOL not flouride... :p flourine... ;)

[SteveK]

geist-
Parts that allow adjustments to the suspension, like the upper links and steering tie-rods, are always a good thing to add. I can't comment on the ball diffs, because I've never run a car with both kinds, so I can't tell you the performance difference between the two. However, if the TT-01 diffs are like the TL-01 diffs, then the ball diffs will be heavier, which may or may not offset the performance advantage. For me the cost would be especially prohibitive, nearly the price of a whole new kit. I think spending that money on tires would be more beneficial, but just a guess.

In the shock department, those Tamiya shocks are supposed to be damn nice. $50 for a set of 4 isn't bad, so while it's double the price of the CVA shocks, it might be worth it.

DaLurker-
See above about the shocks. $100, even Canadian, is a lot for some shocks. $50 isn't bad, but at that price I would 'settle' for the CVAs. Like above, you can spend the money in better ways elsewhere on the car.

[DaLurker]

Hey, oops.. flourine :P I was just wondering what type of shocks you were referring to there SteveK. Are they these: Tamiya TRF Damper Set (http://www.etamiya.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2019)? Or are there another set of Aluminum shocks from Tamiya that I'm not aware of?

[SteveK]

I was thinking of these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGG65&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGJ29&P=7

But if you can get those threaded shocks for about the same price, go for it.

[TRF Drive Hard]

I'd say go for the threaded shocks... ;)

[DaLurker]

O... haha... I liked the threaded.. but those were the $100 shocks I was talking about :eek: Good thing is I forgot to convert, it's $100 CDN and $20CDN. which works out to about $70USD and $15USD, and it seems even at eTamiya and towers, the TRF shocks are around $70USD. Damn expensive!

[SteveK]

I dunno, I'm not 100% sold on threaded shocks, at least not for non-hardcore racers: With pre-load spacers, you snap them on and your pre-load is set. It's the same on each side, and doesn't shift or come loose. With threaded shocks you'll need some kind of calipers or something to make sure each side is the same, andthe collars coming loose always worries me.

[oohjamez]

Hey wasup guys, I finally got some freetime to run my tt01 for only the 3rd time since buying it from ebay. I added a set of ball bearings, a duratrax autosport & a Orion 23T motor. With a freshly charged pack, I can kick the rear end out for about a foot or so. Which is cool & I wonder how would better gearing and some a new li-poly pack would make even bigger drifts on demand.

By any chance does anyone know where I can get an aluminum prop shaft (Tamiya, GPM, or otherwise)? Tower has been sold out for over a month and I haven't seen one on ebay in a while either.

Also, does anyone know what pinion gears the metal motor mount allows? I see a lot of sites that has that in stock, but none of them mention what gears it allows.

And here is a pic of my car. I have no idea what the car originally came from since I have never seen a TT with this wheel or tire combination. Its in great shap, but the hood ornament broke off during shipping :mad: (Race cars have hood ornaments anyway?) I just got millenia body yesterday (Too many Stratuses out there in the world) & I hope to have it done sometime during my vacation. What does everybody else's car look like?

[TRF Drive Hard]

I dunno, I'm not 100% sold on threaded shocks, at least not for non-hardcore racers: With pre-load spacers, you snap them on and your pre-load is set. It's the same on each side, and doesn't shift or come loose. With threaded shocks you'll need some kind of calipers or something to make sure each side is the same, andthe collars coming loose always worries me.

You could also use a white ink marker...set the collar, mark it, then rotate and count the number of turns... ;)

[DaLurker]

Well I went to my LHS, and turns out just plain plastic shocks are gonna cost me close to $60 :| I then went to TowerHobbies, looked at the US prices, and found they cost me $17.59 plus $17.99 for shipping which works out to almost $60, which once again sucks! So i asked them, and they scavenged some shocks out of a ruined new TB-02 they had (it was new shocks, everything was still attached to the plastic packaging and everything) and i said give them to me for $40, which was great =D

So now I got oil dampened shocks and they seem to be much better than the friction shocks. Now just gotta wait for the rain to clear up so I can run them =)

[turbo s15]

Hey wasup guys, I finally got some freetime to run my tt01 for only the 3rd time since buying it from ebay. I added a set of ball bearings, a duratrax autosport & a Orion 23T motor. With a freshly charged pack, I can kick the rear end out for about a foot or so. Which is cool & I wonder how would better gearing and some a new li-poly pack would make even bigger drifts on demand.

By any chance does anyone know where I can get an aluminum prop shaft (Tamiya, GPM, or otherwise)? Tower has been sold out for over a month and I haven't seen one on ebay in a while either.

Also, does anyone know what pinion gears the metal motor mount allows? I see a lot of sites that has that in stock, but none of them mention what gears it allows.

And here is a pic of my car. I have no idea what the car originally came from since I have never seen a TT with this wheel or tire combination. Its in great shap, but the hood ornament broke off during shipping :mad: (Race cars have hood ornaments anyway?) I just got millenia body yesterday (Too many Stratuses out there in the world) & I hope to have it done sometime during my vacation. What does everybody else's car look like?



check through all the tt-01 pages and all our cars are on them including mine

[fabolousRC]

Well I went to my LHS, and turns out just plain plastic shocks are gonna cost me close to $60 :| I then went to TowerHobbies, looked at the US prices, and found they cost me $17.59 plus $17.99 for shipping which works out to almost $60, which once again sucks! So i asked them, and they scavenged some shocks out of a ruined new TB-02 they had (it was new shocks, everything was still attached to the plastic packaging and everything) and i said give them to me for $40, which was great =D

So now I got oil dampened shocks and they seem to be much better than the friction shocks. Now just gotta wait for the rain to clear up so I can run them =)

Hmmm...sounds like you get jacked...is there any more hobby shops around your area other than them? cuz it should be cheaper or there should be a kit that contains just the shock body, seals and the shaft so you can use the stock springs and other accesories within the shock as well.

[DaLurker]

Hmmm...sounds like you get jacked...is there any more hobby shops around your area other than them? cuz it should be cheaper or there should be a kit that contains just the shock body, seals and the shaft so you can use the stock springs and other accesories within the shock as well.

Really? I thought I got a pretty good deal... I mean $40 CDN seems to be directly inline with Tower hobby prices and lower than other LHS places for them. $40 CDN works out to about $28 USD.

[mjohnston39]

I think you gaot an ok deal, the mini shocks are 17.60 USD at Tower and the super-mini's are 13.40. At Great Hobbies (about the best prices in Canada) the super-mini's are 20 CDN and the minis are 29....

Mike

[DaLurker]

Well the Mini shocks are 17.60USD, but to get them up here to The Great White North, it's $17.99 for shipping (:|) so that works out to $35.59USD = $49.82 :| which sux, and I was kinda working around that price although the clear plastic shock body prices kinda threw me off $20 for a pair?!?!? So I thought I got a pretty good deal. Came with springs and shock oil.

Anyways, I was wondering when I put my shocks on, I just use the normal screws that came with the car to mount them, should I convert to ball connecters? Would it make any difference? Also, with all the spacers in the suspension, the car rides really high (a good half an inc higher) whereas with no spacers, it runs about the same height, but the suspension isn't as stiff as I would like.

For optimal stiffness and ride height, what should be the rule? If I'm running a bumpy track or just bashing in a street or parking lot, do I want it higher and softer? Or Higher and stiffer? Or lower? I understand that the stiffer the springs, the less body roll therefore the more control and speed, however if there's a big bump, the car has a tendency to "bounce" and thus lose more traction, so a softer suspension would then be preferred. Am I correct?

[DaLurker]

Well today I went and tried out the car on a section of sidewalk that is bumpy and wow... the oil dampened shocks helped the car stick to the ground instead of having it go flying everywhere like it did with the friction shocks.

One thing I noticed now those is when I'm at a stand still and I gun the motor (apply full throttle) what I get is a lot of what seems to be wheel hop. It seems the wheels just kinda bounce up and down while trying to gain traction, whereas before with the friction shocks, the wheels would just slide. Now is this the shocks trying to put the rubber down harder than the friction shocks? Or did I screw something up? And either way, what can I do to try to minimize this aside from accelerating more gradually?

[oohjamez]

It does sound like wheelhop to me. Have you had a chance to try softer springs, or thinner shock fluid?

[DaLurker]

It does sound like wheelhop to me. Have you had a chance to try softer springs, or thinner shock fluid?

Not yet, I think I'm using soft shock fluid, but the springs are hard. Will softer springs help? Time to take off those spacers eh? lol


Update: Well I switched back to the stock springs (which are quite a bit softer than the other set of springs that came with the shocks which happen to be TA03 Stock Shocks) and I get a lot less wheel hop on the straight line, but accelerating out of a corner is still creating some wheel hop.

But what causes wheel hop exactly? And is it a better idea to have harder or softer suspension? Especially if harder causes wheel hop?

[oohjamez]

I am sure that some of the other guys will correct me if I am wrong but it is usually caused by a suspension that is too stiff. When you give the car full throttle, weight is shifted to the back and the suspension wants to compress to absorb the energy. If the suspension is too firm, you will see that the wheels will grip -then slip -then grip - and so on.

I do think that softer springs will help, but it depends on your track. "you won't always be able to use the spring you want: on small, high-frequency bumps, stiff springs will make the car bounce, resulting in a loss of grip. So you need softer springs, because they allow the tires to stay in contact with the ground. On smooth tracks however, stiff springs are the way to go, they will also help the car's jumping ability and responsiveness [responsiveness means quicker turn in]." I got that quote from http://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/c2/index.htm http://www.*******.com/contentid-2.html#2.12 has some good info also.

I hope that helps... softer rear springs = more acceleration,smoother ride & more understeer firmer rear springs = better cornering, firmer ride, and more oversteer

[turbo s15]

hey guys i was just solving this prob with my tt-01. While using the trf shocks i used 40w oil with yellow springs on all 4. Good set-up i admit, also using the 2 hole pistons on the shocks. I noticed it was bouncy near top end speed so i decided to change the 2 hole pistons to a 3 hole and man te diff is sweet. I love it now it hugs turns like a wild cat on a carpet. I can take real sharp turn around 35 mph with no prob and it wont break loose. If u having this prob then change to a 3 piston. Using the same springs on a 4 corners is more precise the diff rates and diff ends of the car that i noticed. :cool:

[turbo s15]

heres a perfect guide for touring car set-up


http://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/

[turbo s15]

anyone with sway bars yet

[DaLurker]

Well I'm thinking of getting the aluminum driving arms now (too much play with the plastic ones) and I'm wondering.. how the hell do I take the Tie rods off the ball connector? They're on there pretty good :| Do I have to unscrew them with the tie rod on... then install them onto the aluminum arms??

[turbo s15]

Heres what i do and work good.

get a pair of pliers and gently clamp on the corner of the plastic and twist and lift it up gently. Always works for me :D

[DaLurker]

Heres what i do and work good.

get a pair of pliers and gently clamp on the corner of the plastic and twist and lift it up gently. Always works for me :D

Does it warp the plastic at all? I'm worried cuz the plastic seems a little soft. Other question is should I go with ball connectors for my shocks (I got CVA shocks that are designed for ball connector) or should I just stick w/ the stock screws to hold the shocks in? Will it make any difference to the steering?

[turbo s15]

hey

if u clamp to hard it will but if u do it gently and slighty twist it, it will be fine.

I used to have cva mini on my tt01 and i used 5mm ball connector. The shocks are meant to use those. Now i have trf shocks with the blue anodized 5mm ball connectors and they look sweet. It wont change the handling but there lighter than srews and make is alot easier to take ur shocks off with just a little twist using ur hand and they come right off. I Like them alot :D

[dave56bug]

The plastic does warp some, and after popping them on and off a number of times, they get sloppy enough that you'll have to replace them.

Dave.

[DaLurker]

O... so ball connector looks better really? Hmm.... lol.. aight ball connectors it is! Btw I'm thinking of getting the adjustable upper arms. Anybody have pics of that? Want to see waht they look like :)

[turbo s15]

dang i have a pair of ajustable upper arms but i need to take some pics. The look a little the same


i made a custom cooling fan for my tt01 today haha i was bored works like a champ

[DaLurker]

dang i have a pair of ajustable upper arms but i need to take some pics. The look a little the same


i made a custom cooling fan for my tt01 today haha i was bored works like a champ


O... can u take some pics? if you have no place to host them, gimme a PM, I can host them for you :)

[dave56bug]

If someone else doesnt do it first, i'll post some tomorrow morning.

Dav.

[DaLurker]

http://members.rogers.com/dalurker/frontupperadjustablearm.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/dalurker/backupperadjustablearm.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/dalurker/upperadjustablearms.jpg

[TRF Drive Hard]

Looks like you need a clean up... ;)

[DaLurker]

Looks like you need a clean up... ;)

haha.. yeah... gotta get that done sometime. Cleaning takes a while :(

The sad thing is yano the dirt on the adjustable upper arms? That's after one run! ONE! :| Btw does coating the whole car with WD40 really help?

[TRF Drive Hard]

NO! youre asking for dirt... might as well take some dirt and throw it on it already :p

[DaLurker]

NO! youre asking for dirt... might as well take some dirt and throw it on it already :p

Yeah... i just realized. Well no WD40 then. Is there anything out there that might help? Kinda like wax for my R/C?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya take a paint brush and start wiping... thats about it... no matter what, dirt or dust will accumalate... ;)

[DaLurker]

Sorry the pictures disappeared.... Rogers is sending me threatening emails about how my webspace usage is too high :| Anyways, just wondering anybody having issues of stripped screw holes on the tub chassis? I seem to have acquired 3 already :| Guess i'll have to get a new chassis soon.. .damn.... anybody know of anything in the works for a lightweight or modified chassis?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Be nice to see a double deck carbon... ;)

[cheerwhiner]

busted on mine too!! grrrrrrrr

its a 7 dollar part but carbon would be really nice

[sosak]

hi,

can i use V4R controller together whit PurpleTiger 17-turns?

should i change any other part on series TT-01 chasis to prevent any demage???

[oohjamez]

hi,

can i use V4R controller together whit PurpleTiger 17-turns?

should i change any other part on series TT-01 chasis to prevent any demage???

Hi, If I remember correctly, the V4r has a 14turn limit so you should be ok. Using high quality connectors (like Powerpoles or Deans) and 12 gauge wire where ever possible will only help.

I have only had my TT01 a couple of months but the only things that I would replace as soon as possible are: the plastic center driveshaft and the plastic bushings. I did run my car with the plastic driveshaft with my Novak brushless setup for a couple of days, but I never let the motor rev high. On ebay a guy is selling the tamiya aluminum shafts for $6 (American) plus $3 shipping. He is in Japan but it came very quickly.

[sosak]

... is it necesary to change gearbox ratio?

[tamiya4x4dryver]

I got a question.... I've heard alot of complaints about the plastic drive shaft the tt-01 comes with. If you were going to stick with the kit motor, would the shaft be okay, or is it that bad?? I don't race, just bash around with some friends. Sometimes we run the kit 540's so the cars are "equal" to each other...

[oohjamez]

The need of changing the gear ratio varies. Tamiya kits tend to be geared low to extend run times. So you might be able to get by with the faster motor with the stock gearing. I would recommend picking up a few extra Tamiya AV gears (or whatever brand of metric pinions that you can find) in a few sizes lower than the stock one... You have to experiment which one is right since every track,motor & ESC is different.

I think the kit supplied shaft is ok for the stock 540 motor. However I think some of them get bent and that throws the shaft out of balance. It is always a good idea to have a spare. The aluminum one is a good idea since it is less likely to fail and from what I've seen online at places like Tower Hobbies and HobbyTown, the aluminum one is cheaper in price than the plastic kit shaft.

[DaLurker]

What I find is that the plastic shaft has so much play, and with the balance off flexes so much that it hits the steering linkage and causes the car to veer as I approach full speed. Although im' not using the stock 540 motor nemore (using a 20T Stinger Traxxas Motor).


Just another question, I just picked up myself the aluminum steering set, and I find if I screw the screws in too tight, the servo can't re-center the steering everytime. However if I put it on just tight enough, I find after a while I have to retighten the screws otherwise it comes off. Anybody have a solution to this problem? I'm thinking maybe get a long screw and put on a locking bolt? Any ideas?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Instead of the button head screw, use a countersunk screw... try that... ;)

[DaLurker]

Instead of the button head screw, use a countersunk screw... try that... ;)

Countersunk? Sounds familiar... haha... wanna post a link to a picture? :P O and what kinda threading do I need then?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Countersunk like on the bottom of the chassis... i guess you can say "V" shaped... machine screw is better... ;)

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Just curious, when the motormount is sitting in the chassis, is there any play, or is it pretty solid? In other words, could you grab the end of the motor can and wiggle it side to side?

[DaLurker]

Just curious, when the motormount is sitting in the chassis, is there any play, or is it pretty solid? In other words, could you grab the end of the motor can and wiggle it side to side?

I find it's pretty solid, not much play. I don't know why there is such an emphasis to go with a metal motor mount.. i find my plastic fairly good.

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Okay, thanks!

[cheerwhiner]

guys i will be selling my tt01 in a few weeks. just need to get about $10 in parts for it first. It will have a 10 turn double included!! You can message me about it if you want. Probably selling with a mercedes jean alesi body

[TRF Drive Hard]

I find it's pretty solid, not much play. I don't know why there is such an emphasis to go with a metal motor mount.. i find my plastic fairly good.

The motor mount act as a heat dissapater too... ;)

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Hey guys, appreciate you answering the few questions I had about the TT01 and I've decided I'm gonna get one. Now I just gotta figure out which one. Maybe the Focus, or the Raybrig, or the Nismo,... I dunno, but they sure have put some nice bodies with these kits, but after building Tamiya kits for 15 years I gotta say I'm very disappointed in the fact that you get stupid window decals instead of masks now. Anyone else feel the same way?

[oohjamez]

After being away from the hobby for over 10 yrs I am more disappointed at the number of RTRs vs. Ready To Assemble cars. (When you have the right tools,) building the car is half the fun. But Tamiya do make some great bodies... Lexan or otherwise http://www.ideas4you.net/images/emote/thumbs_up.gif

[tamiya4x4dryver]

I'm with ya man! I'm old school and I've been into r/c car/trucks/boats since the late eighties. I've probably built 150 kits or more in that time. I really enjoy it alot and I think alot of rtr folks are missing out. On the other hand it brings alot of people into this hobby that later become kit builders when if kits were all they had it would have scared them away. It was very intimidating when I started 15 years ago with little or no help and no LHS. All I had was RCCA (back when it was a good mag). I was like servo? Goes where? Trim what? LOL

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya i feel the same about the no window mask thing... what i ususally do is i cut the window decal out, then trace it on masking tape... and there ya go, window mask :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

I'm with ya man! I'm old school and I've been into r/c car/trucks/boats since the late eighties. I've probably built 150 kits or more in that time. I really enjoy it alot and I think alot of rtr folks are missing out. On the other hand it brings alot of people into this hobby that later become kit builders when if kits were all they had it would have scared them away. It was very intimidating when I started 15 years ago with little or no help and no LHS. All I had was RCCA (back when it was a good mag). I was like servo? Goes where? Trim what? LOL

^^^I hear ya... to me it was like... esc? what the hell is that!?!?! :p

[fabolousRC]

I seconded that guys...this year will be my 20th year in RC...and i miss building cars...I haven't done it for awhile. Maybe I'll do that once I get back to Asia...more access of the kits stuff that here...

[DaLurker]

Well I figured my steering problem out. I took the crossjoint that joines the two steering arms, and drilled out the holes a bit bigger so that the metal braces that go into them can rotate freely, then I just tightened the screw in all the way. Since the screw only touches the metal brace, the crossjoint can now rotate freely, and I don't have to worry about the screws falling out :)

[tamiya4x4dryver]

TRF Drive Hard, I was on Ebay yesterday and remembered you had mentioned before about Walawala.... Man, you were right, their prices on Tamiya parts rock! Especially TT01 parts. I will definatly be checking them out! Question though... If I bought like 7 items from them at once... Do they just charge you the shipping on the item that had the highest shipping and the other 6 ride for free???? I'm asking cause I know you've dealt with them alot. Thanks!

[tamiya4x4dryver]

How many of you TT01 owners have had TL01's? I've had 6 or more TL01's and when I get my TT01 I'm interested in comparing the 2 chassis. As far as out of the box stock, I do like that the TT01 will accept stick packs and that you get a foam bumper on the front which looks like a real r/c touring car, versus the TL01 with the two little stupid plastic bumpers which make the chassis look like it doesn't know if it's coming or going, LOL! I'm not gonna talk bad about the TL01 though.. I can't lie, I love the stupid things, LOL!

[TRF Drive Hard]

TRF Drive Hard, I was on Ebay yesterday and remembered you had mentioned before about Walawala.... Man, you were right, their prices on Tamiya parts rock! Especially TT01 parts. I will definatly be checking them out! Question though... If I bought like 7 items from them at once... Do they just charge you the shipping on the item that had the highest shipping and the other 6 ride for free???? I'm asking cause I know you've dealt with them alot. Thanks!

They go by weight... but usually the shipping is dirt cheap... trust me!!!

I gotta make a payment of 200 something dollars worth of stuff yet :D

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Okay, thanks TRFDH!

[sosak]

people, do you have some pictures of front and rear stabilizer on the chasis?

[losiXXXman]

No pics yet, but just have to leave a rave. I got a 350Zrace TT01 for xmas from my father-in-law. Have been waiting to get some fresh batteries for it until now. I've only run her twice, but I cannot believe how much fun it is to drive. I had had it with racing, because of the expense, but now I'm hoping some locals will do some informal parking lot racing. I love my TT01!!

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Hey guys! I scored the '03 WRC Focus new sealed kit for $56 plus shipping from rcboyz on Ebay today! Looks like my wait is over! :D

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Also, can someone list the bearings I'll need for a complete set for TT01? It would be much appreciated! :)

[DaLurker]

(12) #1150 5 x 11mm Ball Bearings

(4) #1280 8 x 12mm Ball Bearings

[tamiya4x4dryver]

Thanks DaLurker! I always keep 5x11's on hand, but I'll have to hunt down some 8x12's

[DaLurker]

Thanks DaLurker! I always keep 5x11's on hand, but I'll have to hunt down some 8x12's

:O You keep ball bearings on hand? lol... I don't keep anything on hand coming to think of it... lol... maybe when I start heading to the track. BTW anybody here in Toronto recommend a good track to head out to race my TT-01 with?

[cheerwhiner]

man if you own enough touring cars, you are bound to have some extras

i have about 20 bushings of that size, not bearings though

i've decided to keep the tt-01

[tamiya4x4dryver]

I've built over 100 r/c kits and plan on building more, so whenever I can snag bearings cheap on ebay, that's what I do. I build alot of Tamiya kits and 5x11 is a super popular size so I try to keep a few on hand. I probably have 250 5x11's right now, LOL.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Seems like bearings of that size wont be an issue for you... :p

[tamiya4x4dryver]

You got that right :D

One time I bid on a bunch of bearing auctions at $1.... few days later I had a ton of winning bidder notices... I'll never be that lucky again!

[DaLurker]

Just out of curiosity, will any Universal Shafts work? I find the Dogbones right now aren't all too smooth, like when I fully turn the wheels, it causes quite a bit of vibration, and want to swap them for either a finer set of dogbones and knuckles, or go with the universal shaft set they have. So something like this:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXETM2&P=0

[cheechthechi]

Sadly ta 04 universals won't work. The only universal you can currently get for the tt 01 is made by gpm. Asiatees and ebay usually have a couple of these for sale.

[hardcoreboy]

i'm still waiting for the aluminum front upper and lower arms for my tt-01...i managed to snag off the rear upper and lower aluminum arms from asiatees in ebay, but unfortunately they were out of stock for the front ones. right now i'm thinking about just getting the adjustable arms for the tt-01 rather than the aluminum ones. any opinions about this? by the way...walawala from ebay rocks!!!

[cheerwhiner]

I've decided to make my TT-01 a drag racer using a 10turn double motor I have laying around. This could be insteresting :cool:

I'll keep you all updated

[TRF Drive Hard]

Damn straight WALAWALA rocks!!!

[DaLurker]

i'm still waiting for the aluminum front upper and lower arms for my tt-01...i managed to snag off the rear upper and lower aluminum arms from asiatees in ebay, but unfortunately they were out of stock for the front ones. right now i'm thinking about just getting the adjustable arms for the tt-01 rather than the aluminum ones. any opinions about this? by the way...walawala from ebay rocks!!!

Well it's always nice to have adjustable camber, but the aluminum arms do look nice :P At any rate, for practicality, go with the adjustable arm. For aesthetics, go with the aluminum front upper arms

[cheerwhiner]

http://www.brentroad.com/photos/00292608.jpg

Well check out the battery soldering jig I made! Recognize anything?

[TRF Drive Hard]

LMAO!!! dude i thought that ripped off your chassis LOL :p

[cheerwhiner]

well the front top screws snapped off the plastic, so the chassis had to be replaced. But that was cut down on purpose in the picture :)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Dude, that woulda been super funny if it did snap off like that in a race lol...

[KevinxB]

Hey all. I just bought a new TT-01 with the Xanavi Skyline body. I was into the hobby a few years back and decided to get back into it with a beginner friendly kit. The kit took me only a few hours to put together and I must say I'm happy with it so far. I had my old modified TL01 still laying around in pieces so I snagged the bearings and oil shocks off of it and put them on my TT-01. Aside from that, I got the 8x12's to complete the bearing set and some preassembled tires for racing. I don't remember who makes them, but they are a hard compound and came with some nice looking white mesh wheels. I plan to keep the stock 540 in for a while to race in the spec class at my LHS and to compete in TCS. The only thing I'm worried about is the screws I used to mount the shocks. The shocks were kind of loose on the gold ball joints that they come with (I guess from being popped on and off so much for adjustments and stuff) so I just used the screws that come with the kit for mounting the friction shocks. There is a little bit of play though, since the screws werent meant for those shocks. I guess I'll see how that works, if not I'll use the ball joints.

[TRF Drive Hard]

W/B to the world of RC :D and nice ride!!! Skylines are sweet... :p

[DaLurker]

The screws work fine for the oil dampers (I use those) and personally like them a lot more than ball joints. WIth the ball joints you get wear when you take them off, and there's really no reason to use the ball joints. The little bit a play makes no difference in the handling and the dampers stay put.

[KevinxB]

Thanks for the opinion, I was kind of worried about a shock popping off...probably at the worst time like during the main at TCS. heh, I guess I will put the screws back. The ball joints have worn out the mounts so much there is play either way, so better safe than sorry.

[TRF TT-01]

I am planning to get some GPM upgrades. Do anyone know if they have good quality?

[hardcoreboy]

well the tt-01 i got has lots of gpm upgrades, it looks really nice...it also increased the durability of some parts such as the arms, the front and rear knuckles, and the drive shaft. i was thinking of buying the aluminum racing steering set from gpm, but i don't think it comes with bearings...unlike the tamiya ones which are more expensive but do come with bearings, which are good for reducing slop.

[TRF TT-01]

The Aluminum Racing Steering Set from Tamiya works out really nice. Overall, the handling of the car is better. I know that it's expensive, but it is worth it! :)

[DaLurker]

The Aluminum Racing Steering Set from Tamiya works out really nice. Overall, the handling of the car is better. I know that it's expensive, but it is worth it! :)

Yeah, takes out a LOT of slack, but one other thing you have to get to go with it is the turnbuckle tie rods. With those two, you get almost 0 slack steering :D


Hardcoreboy: If you get the aluminum knuckles and arms, post some pics so we can see how they look :) I"m thinking of getting the aluminum knuckles, and the aluminum front and rear lower arms (keeping the adjustable upper arms). It's going to look kind of funny, but o well!

[cheechthechi]

Does anyone know if tamiya is planning to release a set of universals for the tt 01?

[oohjamez]

By any chance has anyone tried either a high quality servo (something that costs more than $30) and/or a better servo saver with their TT01? I am thinking that this might help some of the steering slop. Just a thought...

[DaLurker]

By any chance has anyone tried either a high quality servo (something that costs more than $30) and/or a better servo saver with their TT01? I am thinking that this might help some of the steering slop. Just a thought...

Don't think so. The slop isn't because of the servo, but because of the design of the steering linkage. If you follow the steering from the front knuckles, the first problem is the screws used to hold down the steering rod (which btw isn't that great, limits the up down movement of your front suspension) and you'll notice there's quite a bit of slack right there. Then they use the same set of screws on the other side to the plastic sterring arms. The arms are then held down by a screw which btw, isn't very fitting either. If you check all of the linkages all the way up then, you notice it's all the same!! Loose all the way up.

[KevinxB]

Does anyone know if tamiya is planning to release a set of universals for the tt 01?

I was wondering the same thing. It just seems like those dogbones are so chattery during turns. All that noise can't be good for efficiency. I had universals in the front on my TL-01 and it never seemed as noisy when I was cornering. But then again even the dogbones were all metal. I figure it must be the TT-01's plastic dogbones. I asked the guy at my LHS and he said he hasn't seen univerals for the TT and I cant find any on Tamiya's website. I hope they're on the way.

Does anyone know how to tell the difference between a Johnson 540 and a Mabuchi 540? I read somewhere that the Johnson is much better and if you're running a Mabuchi in TCS (in Spec or GT-3) you might as well plan on having a hard time keeping up. I want to know if the 540 my TT-01 came with is a Johnson or Mabuchi, so if it is a Mabuchi I can find a Johnson before TCS on the 25th.

[DaLurker]

Well if you wnat Universals, you can always get these:

http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?id=161&brand=Tamiya&model=TT-01&pid=1

[KevinxB]

So they do exist. Maybe Tamiya will get on the ball so can I get them for my car and be able to race at my LHS (Tamiya hop ups only).

That suspension slop was also getting to me, so I got some new shocks. They're the regular mini cva's but they have little ball sockets you put into the shock mount holes then put the screw through there. You don't have to use those stupid gold ball joints and there is far less play. I haven't run with them yet, but I know my car is sitting up higher. I hope it doesn't feel less dialed. I don't feel like taking those things apart again to put more spacers in. Not to mention I don't have anymore spacers. Oh well, I'll see how it runs tomm.

[hardcoreboy]

Hardcoreboy: If you get the aluminum knuckles and arms, post some pics so we can see how they look :) I"m thinking of getting the aluminum knuckles, and the aluminum front and rear lower arms (keeping the adjustable upper arms). It's going to look kind of funny, but o well!

here's my tt-01 with all the hop ups, aluminum arms for the rear ( i haven't got ones for the front yet.), aluminum knuckles, ball differentials, oil shocks, carbon fiber upper frame, adjustable tie rods, aluminum shaft, etc. i still am using the stock esc and servo for it coz i am building a pro4...and i already have spent too much money on it!!!

[hardcoreboy]

here's the picture up close...

[hardcoreboy]

and here are my beauties...

[cheerwhiner]

dang I'm jelous of that. Yeah I want to hop up mine but I am concentrating on the ta04 which is far more adjustable for racing (until tamiya releases more hop ups for the tt-01)

[TRF TT-01]

I want Tamiya to make more hop-up for my TT-01................ can't wait!

[DaLurker]

I want Tamiya to make more hop-up for my TT-01................ can't wait!

How much more though do u think Tamiya will make for the TT-01?

[cheerwhiner]

well there is no other chassis but the plastic tub........... probably a graphite or carbon fibre thin chassis

[miatafreak]

u can fit some factory team tc3 parts on tto1's like the heatsink, driveshaft, springs and locknuts. my car has the heatsink and locknuts and soon it will haave the driveshaft.

[KevinxB]

I'm thinking about getting a stock motor and running in a higher class at my LHS. Who else is running a stocker and with what gearing? Are there any mods I should make to go along with having a stock motor besides bearings and oil shocks? Do I need the metal motor mount or anything? any recommendations appreciated.

One other thing: Did you all put lube on your bearings when you installed them? I didn't, I was just wondering if that is a bad thing or if they need it to operate smoother. I know you have to lube bushings, but what about bearings? I've heard both opinions.

[DaLurker]

I'm thinking about getting a stock motor and running in a higher class at my LHS. Who else is running a stocker and with what gearing? Are there any mods I should make to go along with having a stock motor besides bearings and oil shocks? Do I need the metal motor mount or anything? any recommendations appreciated.

One other thing: Did you all put lube on your bearings when you installed them? I didn't, I was just wondering if that is a bad thing or if they need it to operate smoother. I know you have to lube bushings, but what about bearings? I've heard both opinions.

Not sure about the motor (I'm in the same dilemna, want to get a good motor, but not sure which one).

As for the bearings, I didn't put any lube on the outside or the inside ring of the bearing. I figure you don't need to since the bearing is designed such that the inner ring spins independantly of the outside ring, where as the bushings are designed to spin with the inner shaft so you need to lube up the outside. Personally I haven't and won't lube up the bearings.

[dabait]

Lots of bearings come pre-lubed with a fairly heavy oil. Some racers will clean the bearings before installation, then follow-up with some very light machine oil... or no oil at all.

[KevinxB]

cool, now I don't feel bad about not lubing them.

Anyone have stock motor recommendations and setups?

[cheerwhiner]

the one part i realllllllllllllllllly need is the metal drive shaft. looks like the tc3 won't fit because its longer- about 8mm longer based on the dimensions posted on towerhobbies!!!! And they are out of the Tamiya TT-01 right now........... just have to wait. Remember I have a 10 turn double (which just got cut so its gonna have all the power back) so a plastic shaft is worthless on this car for me!

[TRF TT-01]

Read the Next one

[TRF TT-01]

The Hop-Ups that I want Tamiya to make are:
-Titanium Screw Set TT-01
-Aluminum Suspension Mount
-Aluminum Motor/Gear Box Cover
-Aluminum Lower Suspension Arm
-Carbon Damper Stay
-Universal Shaft
-Carbon Reinforced Tub Chasis

[turbo s15]

hey nice ideas on other hop-ups but not sure about the aluminum motor/gear cover box. It wouldnt really help and it would add weight. A carbon fiber 1 would be nice for looks


well i had a ?. Those sway bars for the tt-01 on tower i think 17$ for front and 18$ for rear and thats close to 40 bucks for both. So i was thinking are the front and rear sway bars exactly the same cause if so i can just get 1 and they come red,blue, and yellow so i could just save money and get one then use yellow up front and blue in the rear. Do u guys think it would work? Does anyone have them yet :confused:

turbo-livin*live*sideways*

[TRF TT-01]

turbo s15, rear bars are longer and bigger than the front one so it won't fit

[turbo s15]

thanks ;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

FYI, they do make carbon shock towers...

[DaLurker]

FYI, they do make carbon shock towers...

:eek: Where?!?!

[TRF TT-01]

Front
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/images/tam_53694.jpg

Rear
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/images/tam_53695.jpg

See the difference

[KevinxB]

Hey all. I've been away for a while, but I've been tuning. I got the aluminum prop shaft, some M-Radial tires and a P2K2 stock motor. I also added the lightweight nylon lock nuts for the wheels. I had them on my HPI Pro for a while, but they're made by Tamiya, so I figured why not put them on the TT? I geared the stock motor with a 21T pinion, but am thinking about switching to a 20T. TCS is coming up soon at my LHS and they always have tight, technical setups with short straights. So I figure extra torque for shooting out of turns will help me do better than the momentary advantage of higher top speed on a back straight. I also plan to pick up a ball diff between now and TCS because I figure it'll be helpful against all those TBs and TAs. Wish me luck.

[fulcrum2]

Sorry for asking again abt. the stock cpr-01 esc unit:

Is it OK to run a 23 Turn Motor with this esc?
Which Motor is the best to be run safely with the cpr-01



Thx!

[hardcoreboy]

Sorry for asking again abt. the stock cpr-01 esc unit:

Is it OK to run a 23 Turn Motor with this esc?
Which Motor is the best to be run safely with the cpr-01



Thx!

i beleive you could only run a tamiya sport tuned motor with the cpr-01 (pls. correct me if i'm wrong). i wanted to try to put like a 21 turn motor to it but i wouldn't wanna risk frying it. you may wanna put on like a novak xrs esc on it...or better yet an lrp f1...its only about $10.00 difference but it's worth it.

[hardcoreboy]

...that's an lrp f1 reverse though...

[fulcrum2]

Thx HB for your reply, but I dont want to upgrade the cpr-01 b/c that would mean a new Receiver as well (cpr is all in one).
Can anybody tell me which motor is the best to be safely run with the OEM esc?
This car is will only see parking lots and I don´t want to sink too much cash into it...

[hardcoreboy]

yeah it kinda sucks that you have to do upgrades with both esc and receiver at once...you even have to buy a new transmitter with it...well, you can buy cheap transmitters and receivers at ebay from "TheROCKETMAN'S HOBBIES" . the cheapest i've seen was $40.00 with free shipping. all you have to save on is the esc which has a steeper price...approximately $50.00 for a good one. if you don't wanna spend too much on it, i would recommend buying a sport tuned motor from tamiya, which only costs about about an average of $14.00-18.00 in ebay.

[turbo s15]

hey guys check out my tt-01 on a slammed 180sx in the body-painting forum :D Its under rps13

[KevinxB]

I saw it, looks pretty nice. I want to get a body and put some LED headlights on it. I saw them on ebay. Should make drivng in the dark more fun.

[fulcrum2]

Hi there!


I want to gear my stock tt-01 10 percent longer.
Stock gearing is 19 pinion 61 spur.
Is it possible to switch to a 21 pinion? Can I adjust the proper gear mesh with the plastic motor mount if I pair 21/61, or do I have to switch to a different combo?

Many thx!

[cheerwhiner]

i should be getting the prop shaft, metal motor mount, and carbon upper chassis today or tomorrow................. with a 10X2 I have sitting around!!

[turbo s15]

Hey
that gear combo wont work sorry. Wont mesh correctly. u need a 21/58t spur. U should get th spur gear set and try out diff combos.

If u want is 10 percent longer use the 21/58 spur.



HEY KEVIN EB

for about 30 bucks i suggest getting the Varad R/c lighting kit. I have it on the wrx and man its a beauty. Blue headlights and red in the rear. Its i sweet kit man and its clean. Its www.rcneon.com

[fulcrum2]

@ turbo s15


Thx dude. This will save me from a useless purchase. You sure that the 21/58 combo will mesh with the plastic motor mount?

Thanks again!

[turbo s15]

yea no prob it will

the only diff is the metal one is metal. lol :D

[KevinxB]

turbos15: thanks, those are similar to the kits I was looking at on ebay. I'll have to try them out when I get a new body.

As far as the metal motor mount: I had bought one from my LHS and installed it in my car but to my surprise I could move the motor back and forth a little bit even though the motor had been securely bolted in. I didn't remember being able to do that with the plastic one, so I put it back in to check. It fit better than the metal one! I'm not sure if I just got a dud or what, but I took the mount back and returned it. I plan to get a clip on heat sink to help with cooling, but I'm not risking damage to my gears from that poor fitting metal mount.

I'm running in TCS GT-3 class in a few weeks. How are you guys gearing your 540's? I still have the stock spur, but I got 20,21 and 22T pinions. I was using the 21 with my P2K2 but it seemed overgeared. It had very little low-rpm power even though the P2K2 is supposed to be a very torquey motor. I put the 20T on since then, but haven't been able to see if it made much of a diff (rain). Just wanted to compare setups. I need lots of torque for the tight track they run at my LHS. Wish me luck in TCS!

[cheerwhiner]

everything came intoday except the alloy shaft, all the vendors are out right now!! So got to wait a little longer before releasing the 10 turn double. BTW the metal motor mount has got some beef to it. Good investment! I went ahead and got the carbon upper deck, it should prevent the front upper screws on the chassis from snapping the chassis- the only thing I have had to replace.

[KevinxB]

...BTW the metal motor mount has got some beef to it. Good investment! ....

Did you actually install it and see how it fits? It might be beefy, but if it doesn't fit right and starts chewing up your gears, I'd hardly think it was a good investment. I'm just glad I caught that before I went driving with it. Like I said, it might have been a dud or something...I just thought it was weird that it didnt fit as securely as the plastic one when on the package it says it's supposed to give a more precise gear mesh.

[turbo s15]

well im not sure about u guys im using a 13t double producing alot of torque and i use the metal motor mount and had no prob wat so ever. At first it was a little off but moving the pinion in the correct postion making for a more precise gear mesh. Tamiya says it helps cool the gear and the motor and provides a better mesh which it does if its lined up right but so far so good with mine :D Its still gonna move a little due to the way the mount has to fit in there stand up and not srewed on like most motor mounts. Lazy design but its not too bad :)

[beer_drinker]

Hi everyone

I have been following this forum for a while now and just bought a 350z tt-01! :D

I have already got the following upgrades: Aluminium Propellor Shaft, 21t pinion gear, RS-540 sport tuned motor (best motor allowed at my club race days), motor heatsink, and ball bearings.

Because i race on a paved tennis court, I need to know what tyres I should get and how to improve my handling, as i am one of the fastest cars there, but everyone takes me on the corners (and no, i am a fairly decent driver)

[KevinxB]

welcome, bd. I was wondering the same thing. I need to improve my handling. I'm going to run my stock 540 in TCS. I was running my P2K2 with the Tamiya M-Grip Radials. The tires are pretty soft, but the grip wasn't very good. They also seem like they will wear out very fast. Lots of rubber building up inside my body after only a few runs. It might just be my setup. I have the mini cva shocks with the stock springs. I set the front with a bit more preload than the back because thats supposed to help keep the rear in control but the car was still very easy to loop around. So, I switched back to the 540 and put the kit tires on and the car is much more controllable. Obviously, its not as fast, but maybe this way I can get a good baseline before trying to go faster. If anyone has the mini CVA's, what spring setup are you running? I had bought some Tamiya tuning springs (the set of 3 with the firm blues, med yellows and soft reds) but they didnt fit right. The diameter of the spring was a bit too big and the spring hung off of the bottom shock retainer some. I guess they werent for the mini's. Which springs work? Any other tips for balanced handling?

[KevinxB]

turbo s15: what do you mean you moved the pinion for a better mesh? Did you change the motor mount holes and not follow the instructions for the preset gear mesh? I might have needed to do that. I was just not comfortable with how I was able to move the motor around even though everything was tightened down. My plastic mount doesn't do that though. I thought it was weird. I'm guessing it was a dud, because Tamiya parts are usually very good quality.

[DaLurker]

I've been using the Mini CVA Shocks and the Stock TA-04 Springs and the car handles pretty well. If you guys haven't gotten them yet, you might want to invest in the adjustable upper arms. I found adding camber (about 1 degree) seemed to help it through the turns. i'm running on tarmack type material and using the semi slicks with a 20 turn and it seems to hold the turns fairly well.

[beer_drinker]

I decided to try the semi-slicks, as i found them on the best looking rims!
I cant find the CVA shocks at any of my LHS, so they'll have to wait.

I'll post some pics when i get everything together again (I had to order replacement front knuckle arms)

Also, what is the best 27T motor available? I heard about something from trinity, but id like to hear your suggestions.

[turbo s15]

Hey

i followed the intstructions but what i mean was before tightning the pinion down, u need to move it to a real good mesh with the Spur. Line it up as close to the middle of the spur as u can and make sure its not hugging the corner of the spur. And the design of the way the mount slides in the plastic part, well if u have a lot of torque due to the twisting over the motor produced by torque, the motor mount is goona wiggle a little. Yea it moves standing still but its due to the design of the way the motor mount is held in place. Most have srews holding them in firmly.


Hey kevinXB

i had cva mini 2 using tamiya tuned spring and it works out fine. I used for the best combo (blue) in rear and (yellow) up front. Now for my trf i use yellow all around which seems the best setup. I dont know why ur springs dont fit the shocks. The springs are meant to fit with them. Springs fit perfectly for me. Give it another try :)

[fulcrum2]

Another question: If I would switch to a "no-limit" esc, which kind of motor could I run w/o killing the tranny?
Any experience here?

Thx!

[turbo s15]

Hey.

Ive seen guys with 10 turn motors with a no-limit esc in the tt-01 and no probs. You wont kill the tranny with a low turn motor just make sure ur set-up is right. Im using a 13t double and no prob wat so ever. Theres guys using novak brushless set-ups with is equivalent to a 10 turn motor in some cases. Now if ur thinking of gunning a 8 or 9 turn motor than the tt-01 prolly isnt meant for all that. ;)

[beer_drinker]

[QUOTE=turbo s15]
Hey
that gear combo wont work sorry. Wont mesh correctly. u need a 21/58t spur. U should get th spur gear set and try out diff combos.

If u want is 10 percent longer use the 21/58 spur.

I'm using a 21/61t and it works fine. Just rotate your motor 90 degrees on the motor mount.

[beer_drinker]

Can u use a brushless motor with a normal no-limit esc, or do u have to have a brushless esc or something?

[turbo s15]

Hey

No i dont belive that will work. U need the whole brushless set-up and esc combo. Ive never seen anyone with a brushless and a standard esc. :(

[KevinxB]

Thanks for the advice s15. I think I'll hold off on trying the mount again because I'm not going to run anything hotter than my P2K2 anytime soon. Maybe in the off season if I get a mild mod I'll give it a try again. I meshed the gears like you said, but it just seemed like the mount itself wasnt being held down securely by the plastic piece that goes over it. The plastic one didn't move at all, so I just thought it was weird. Thanks again for the suggestions.

beer drinker: I have a P2K2 Pro stock motor from Trinity in my TT and I like it. Its a lot faster than the stock 540. Its a bit too fast though, cuz like I said even with the M-Grip slicks and oil shocks, my car is very hard to control. Give it a try, its a good, inexpensive stock motor. If you can dial your car in with it, let me know what you did!

Before TCS, I think I need to get the heat sink motor clip and some tuned springs. I plan to get the carbon upper frame and front ball diff or one way but not until later. I should have them before my LHS's charity race in Sept. Any advice on which (ball diff or one-way) is better for a tight outdoor paved track? Also, can you use a one way with a reversing ESC? I'm not sure if I can disable it with the ESC I have.

DaLuker: how do you measure the camber with those adjustable upper arms? I don't have one of those setting board things. Is it okay to eyeball it? I think thats what I did with my TL01

[beer_drinker]

ok, maybe in my next car. All i really need is something that will be able to keep up with a standard petrol/nitro car, but wont deplete my battery (Tamiya 1400SP) in less than five minutes. Any reccomendations. I guess, if i have to, I could buy a few 2400SP's. I dont want to buy a new charger for Ni-MH though.

[beer_drinker]

If i have confused you, i am looking for TWO motors for 2 different competitions, not a 27T that will keep up with petrol lol!

[turbo s15]

hey

i use the the ajustable uppers arms and i eyeball it and adjust to it until it feels right. Or u can use the duratrax camber gauge or the RPM gauge for like 7 bucks which i tend to use more. :D

KevinXB

Hey well as far as front way or ball diff i would go with both depending on wat tracks ur on. Im using the front way with ball diff in rear and man the handling is sweet i must say. The front ways makes the car handle like a mad cat tearing up the carpet. It sweeps turns nicely and rarely ever fishtales. And yes u can reverse with the front-way. I have a revesible esc and it goes in reverse with no probs. But if u want a more balanced set-up get ball diff in both ends of the car. But the frontway diff is definatly worth the money in my opinion

[KevinxB]

thanks s15, I think I'll go with the one way. It sounds like the extra cost will be worth it.

beer drinker: definitely go with a stock motor if you want to run with a 1400 mah pack. Most modifieds will kill that pack in just a few minutes. You might try a 19-turn spec motor. It would definitely be faster, but I'm not sure how they are on runtimes.

[beer_drinker]

I reckon ill just stay in the class that i'm in now (RS-540 class)

My friend just bought a Losi XXX-S with a 19t motor, so i'll ask him if i can test it out in my car. I might be able to keep up with a low gear ratio...

[KevinxB]

thats what I'm doing. cheaper and more even racing. good luck!

[mjohnston39]

If you're going to run in the stock rs-540 class give the Tamiya 540J (Johnson) silver cans a try, apparently they are faster than the Mabuchi motors.

Mike.

[KevinxB]

How do you know which is which? I thought I read that and asked how to tell the difference before, but don't remember getting a reply about it. Do the kits come with Mabuchis or Johnsons? If they come with Mabuchis, where can I get a Johnson?

[DaLurker]

I just eyeball it :P Since the maximum it can do is 2 degrees, I figure twice the width to that would be 1 degree.

Just wondering, if I plan to run a 10t motor, what type of gearing should I use? Should I get a different spur? I'm running 21/61 for my stock motors (that should be ok for a 19t?) but if I use a 10t, would that be geared too low? Should I change the spur too?

[beer_drinker]

mjohnston, I dont race in the TCS; they dont have that in Australia. In my indoor competition we have to use any 27T motor (even though they specifically mention the RS-540 Sport Tuned as being allowed, which is 23T). I guess i should ask at the next race meet...

[beer_drinker]

How do you know which is which? I thought I read that and asked how to tell the difference before, but don't remember getting a reply about it. Do the kits come with Mabuchis or Johnsons? If they come with Mabuchis, where can I get a Johnson?

The motors that come with our kits are RS-540's (27T) Mabuchi and Johnson both make the Sports Tuned motor (23T) for Tamiya so i think they would be pretty much the same.

[turbo s15]

hey i got a quick question.. On my last motor i had when i looked at my brushes, the color was like a blue. Can u tell me what that is and what might have caused it and what to do about it

[beer_drinker]

I sent an email to the race coordinator. He said that you can use any 27T motor OR the Tamiya Sports Tuned. So are there any 27T motors that are faster or that have more torque than the sports tuned?

[DaLurker]

Well I got myself a GT7 and a Peak Racing Jaguar 11 turn motor. Any ideas what gearing?

[beer_drinker]

After reading about the Johnson and Mabuchi motors, i found that the Mabuchi has 18,300rpm compared to Johnsons 14,500rpm, and the Mabuchi has 350g-cm of torque compared to 255g-cm of the Johnson. The good thing about the Johnson is that it draws 7.9A current drain, compared to 12A from the Mabuchi.

Hope i've cleared things up with this post

[KevinxB]

beerdrinker: that's opposite to what I had heard before, but thanks.

turbo: Sounds like they may have just been wearing out from the heat. How long had they been on the motor? Unless you noticed a sudden drop in performance, I wouldn't worry about it.

[fulcrum2]

@beer drinker

Colud you please post a link of the source where you´ve found datasheets for the stock motors? I would also like to know the specs for the sports tuned...

Many thx in advance!

[beer_drinker]

Oh ****, I just realised that they had the Mabuchi !SPORTS TUNED! specs in the guide book (the one that I got the specs out of). :mad: :mad: :mad: I'm really sorry for misleading you all. The johnson specs in my last post are still all correct, but the Mabuchi specs are: Torque: 200gcm RPM: 11,000 Current draw: 6.25A.
I'm sorry once again. ;)

[KevinxB]

So which one do the kits come with? Where can I get a Johnson if I have a Mabuchi?

[beer_drinker]

Our TT-01 kits come with the johnson motor. It says so on the pinion side of the motor around the edge.

[losiXXXman]

Hey guys I need some gearing advice. My kit motor was slowing down a little, so I dropped in a motor that was wasting space in my pit box, I think its a Trinity Paradox. Anyway, I left the stock gearing in there 61/19 = 8.35 ratio. The motor accelerates like a rocket, and has gobs of top end too, but seems to be running a little on the hot side. What are you guys running with hot stock motors for gearing?? Also - I'm just running up and down the street right now, no racing so no track issues...

[beer_drinker]

LosiXXXman, I would recommend you just buy a TT-01 motor heat-sink. If the motor is still too hot try a 17 or 18 turn pinion. You might have to get a bigger spur to make them mesh properly.

[turbo s15]

Hey da lurker

try goin with a 23 pinion and a 58 spur. Ur gonna need to switch to a 58 spur anyway. 55 spur might overgear the motor. Im using a 24 pinion on da 58 spur and the speed is crazy.


I noticed some of u guys having problems with heat. Well heres 2 solutions. Reedy made a clip-on motor heat sink with a miniture cooling fan which has a connection that plugs in ur Batt part of the recieve. Draws less than 1/3 a amp and works great to what i heard. But its 25 bucks

So what i did was went to radio shack and bought a tiny little fan and some tie traps. Now ull need a futaba connected but im sure u guys have many of those. And to do this u need a carbon upper frame! All i did was cut the wires from the fan and connected the futaba connected and mated them together then u need 1 srew to mount on to the cf frame then 1 tie trap to hold another corn of the frame. PLug it up and it works like a champ. Total cost was 10 bucks. And works just as good as the reedy on but if u dont have the upper frame then u might need to get the reedy one. Mine keeps the motor cool at all times. Gets a little hot but it works.

heres a pic of da reedy one. Heres a link to what mine looks like http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173111

[turbo s15]

opps heres da reedy one and since u guys are running stock motors compared to me running a 13 turn well then if it keeps my cool then its sure to make ur guys motors running even better :D

[beer_drinker]

Does the fan spin even when you dont accelerate. That would be useful.

[turbo s15]

Yea

even if ur at a dead stop, the fan still spins at full speed. Its a very useful touch ive used on my car. Works great :D

[DaLurker]

Well... turns out 19pinion 61spur is over gearing my 11t motor, so I need to gear down 2 or 3 teeth. Anyone know whether a 16, 17 or 18 teeth pinion will work with the TT-01?

Also, anybody know where I can find a gearing chart?

[KevinxB]

Went out testing my car today. I got the set of hard on road tuned springs. I put the whites (extra firm) up front and the blues (firm) out back. The car is pretty dialed with the 540, good turn in and the rear swings around just enough to help me get through a turn if I tap the brakes. The only thing that sucks is the yellow springs that came in the set, one of them was kind of bent out of shape and I dont trust it to give me consistent rebound on both sides of the car. I still have the reds if I need to soften things up, but the car feels pretty good now. Has anyone tried the 22T pinion with the stock spur and the stock silver can motor? My car has plenty of torque now with a 21T pinion, just wondering if I should try a 22 for a bit more top end.

[turbo s15]

hey da lurker

i dont think u can go any lower with gears as far as 18 or 18 pinions go. It prolly wont mesh right. If u want a higher top speed then gear it for a 22 or 23 pinion with a 58 spur

[turbo s15]

hey kevin xb wouldnt u want more steering up front and a liitle more grip. Try putting the whites in the rear and blue up front. U might have a little more control over the cars steering

what spur are u using with the 21 pinion u got?

[KevinxB]

I think its pretty dialed at least for now. It turns in hard and the back only comes around if I tap the brakes, but its still controllable. It should be good for the tight setup at my LHS. After TCS, I'll be putting my P2K2 back in and I'll see if it still hooks up as well. If it doesn't, I'll swap the blues and whites. As far as the pinion, I'm running the 21T with the stock spur (61T, right?). I think I should get the 22T pinion so I can have a bit more top end. I just don't want to pay $8 at my LHS for two pinion gears, considering I won't be able to use the 23T that comes with the 22T.

[fulcrum2]

Hi there!

I´m looking for oil shocks to improve overall performance. There are so many types around. Which one (Tamiya part number please) fit the TT-01 best and have a good price/performance ratio?


THX guys!

[turbo s15]

hey well as far as shocks goes if u want the best get the trf flourine coated shocks. The best shocks in the buisness overall but cost is around 50 to 60 bucks but its a hella worth it. I love them. Very very smooth and look sweet with the blue aluminum bodies. Now if u want close performance but exact well then get the cva mini for around 20 bucks. I had them before and no probs. Worked great. U get get either one at most hobby shops or just do it the easy way and hit towerhobbies.

trf shocks- 49293
cva mini - 53619

[turbo s15]

heres the trf blue coated they come in red also

[turbo s15]

heres the cva mini


oh yea and if u get the trf shocks u need to buy silicone shock oil also which is like 5 bucks

[TRF Drive Hard]

Mmmmm blue... :D

[KevinxB]

I have the second set turbo posted. The CVA minis. They cost me $22 at my LHS. They don't come with springs, you have to use the ones that came with your kit or buy a set of tuned springs. I'm happy with them, good bang for the buck. Much better than those friction things that come in the kit.

I initially built them with the included (soft) oil, the one-hole pistons and the factory springs. With my P2K2 stock motor, I had very little control in the corners. The car spun out very easily. I have since got the on road hard tuned springs and with the whites up front and blues out back, I think car is pretty much dialed. I left everything else the same. I just hope the setup holds when I put the P2K2 back in.

[fulcrum2]

Thx buddies!

Some guys talk about "super mini cva´s". Any thoughts about them?

[turbo s15]

hey kevin xb

since u said ur car had very little control to solve this try putting a 2 hole piston in ur shocks. It will let more oil flow for increased shock action. It will soak up corners alot better and make the car handle alot better and wont spin out as much

[turbo s15]

ive never heard of them i might have though

[turbo s15]

any1 with sways yet ? my hobby shop just put in a order for some yay!

cant wait until they get here but man it seems parts for the tt01 are expensive. front and rear are around 20 bucks each compared so some like the tb02 which is like 12 bucks for front and rear!

[KevinxB]

When I rebuild them I think I will try the two holes. I figured since the included oil was soft the one hole might work better. Oh well, trial and error. No sways here...

[cheerwhiner]

rcobyz.com is cheaper than tower if they have a part in stock that is.........lol

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well the stablizers are expensive because of the blue aluminum mounts for it... hello!?!?!

[turbo s15]

ya i never noticed those lol

[KevinxB]

its always blue with you, isn't it TRF? heh :D

I can't wait for TCS. I'm kinda mad I haven't had any time to practice though. Last weeks race got rained out. I think I'll do ok though. 3 more days!

[turbo s15]

im sending goodluck ur way ;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

its always blue with you, isn't it TRF? heh :D



Damn straight it is! :p

[fulcrum2]

What kind of glue do you use to fix cracks of the body?
CA is such a nasty stuff...

[TRF Drive Hard]

Shoe-Goo works with a strip of fiber cloth...

[KevinxB]

turbo: Thanks! I'll let you guys know how I do

[turbo s15]

I Love My Wrx Its So Sweet With My Lights Haha It Was A Random Comment I Was Bored Lol

[cheerwhiner]

OK I might make my car a rally car now just to have something to use on our dirt track

[fulcrum2]

What is Shoe-Goo? We don´t know it over here in Europe. What is the main purpose of this product? Maybe I can go for another brand...

[beer_drinker]

I cant wait for my club's race meet either; its this Sunday. My car is tuned well, so i should go ok, at least. The only things i dont have are good tires and oil-filled shocks (I'll probably but the TRF Flourine ones.)

Oh yeah, and if i buy them, what spring set should i get and how should i set up my springs (I only use it for onroad driving with no bumps). I was thinking soft at front and medium in rear. Is this a good setup?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Heck no bumps? you want to go firm... i would start with yellow all around... then try blue all around... if not try blue up front, yellow in the rear... imho, i use super or ultra hard... all around... :D

***shoe-goo is what it is, its for shoes :D but it can be used for anything... it comes off when you want to take it off, stays on when you dont need to take it off :p its like polyurethane... but better ;)***

[KevinxB]

turbo: What lights do you have? I was thinking about getting a set off of ebay when I get a new body. Do you have any pics?

[turbo s15]

hey ill get some pics up soon. Its the kit from varad r/c lighting

comes with front and rear lights

and the nice thing is the fronts are like hid lights used on real cars with a nice blue color. And it mounts to the body very very clean and uses 1 9v which lasts up to 1000 hours. 30 bucks and a hella worth it :cool:

[beer_drinker]

Heck no bumps? you want to go firm... i would start with yellow all around... then try blue all around... if not try blue up front, yellow in the rear... imho, i use super or ultra hard... all around... :D

But in this Tamiya guide book it says "Using stiffer springs on rough terrain and softer springs on flat traks is the normal rule" :confused:
And is it better to have softer springs on the front?

P.S I race in a car park and on a tennis court

[beer_drinker]

Can you please use the term super hard instead of blue etc. as i dont really know which one is which lol!

[asw7576]

After reading about the Johnson and Mabuchi motors, i found that the Mabuchi has 18,300rpm compared to Johnsons 14,500rpm, and the Mabuchi has 350g-cm of torque compared to 255g-cm of the Johnson. The good thing about the Johnson is that it draws 7.9A current drain, compared to 12A from the Mabuchi.

Hope i've cleared things up with this post

Hey, this is nice finding man!! :D Do you know where to get the mabuchi motors ?? What motor color between them ??

[beer_drinker]

hey asw7576, you need to read below the post that you just quoted. That is the Mabuchi SPORTS TUNED motor specs. The correct Mabuchi specs were posted by me after i realised my mistake.

[KevinxB]

But in this Tamiya guide book it says "Using stiffer springs on rough terrain and softer springs on flat traks is the normal rule" :confused:
And is it better to have softer springs on the front?

P.S I race in a car park and on a tennis court

Seems like it would be the other way around like TRF said. Stiff on a smooth surface, soft on a bumpy one. I'm using the firm (blue) out back and the extra firm (white) up front for running on asphalt. The mediums are yellow and the softs are red.

[DaLurker]

Just wondering, any ideas whether I can get aluminum drive hubs? It seems the stock plastic ones have bigger ones in the back, but it seems the plastic is starting to wear away and the wheels are starting to wobble a bit :|

[TRF Drive Hard]

Can you please use the term super hard instead of blue etc. as i dont really know which one is which lol!

Red=soft firm
Yellow=medium firm
Blue=firm
White=extra firm
Green=super firm
Purple=ultra firm

;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Seems like it would be the other way around like TRF said. Stiff on a smooth surface, soft on a bumpy one. I'm using the firm (blue) out back and the extra firm (white) up front for running on asphalt. The mediums are yellow and the softs are red.

Generally an ultra smooth pavement of sort you can go super or ultra... you will notice that the car is firmly planted... now if the surface has slightly hilly, using blue or white or a combo of sort will work... on an asphalt surface, chances are there might be hilly patches so blue and yellow is the combo to go... i rarely use red... too soft imho...

[KevinxB]

Well TCS is over. I'm kinda disappointed because I didn't do that well, but I think I did alright considering it was my first time racing in more than 3 years. I ran in GT3 (tub chassis, silver can motor, any hop ups) and placed 5th out of 9 in both of my heats. I didn't feel like sticking around for the main because my car was geared totally wrong. I was using the 22T pinion with the stock 61T spur. I needed a smaller spur to gear my car up because I had no top end compared to most of the other cars. My LHS was out of them though, so it was hard to be competitive when everyone was just plain faster than me. Oh well, there's always next year. I plan to get the spur gears so I can have them for my LHS's end of the year charity race. I will also be using my P2K2 in the stock class then. How should I gear a stock motor? Right now I still have the 22/61 combo in and it feels pretty fast on the top end with reasonable torque. Should I try a smaller spur?

[BickTamiya]

bump

[TRF Drive Hard]

^^^Bump? why do we need to bump this thread?!?!?

[beer_drinker]

For the springs, shouldnt you use softer ones on a really technical track as well. Also, what stiffness are the springs that come with our cars

[thegreatimpulse]

Greetings, all TT-01 owners, if you would, I have a question for you all. My buddy got a TT-01 couple of weeks ago, and as he's putting the car together, something didn't seem to fit right. The spur gear stopper (part GB2) seems to be pressing against the side of the bracket that holds the bearing (RB1), and it's dragging the spin of the spur assembly. GB2 is facing the correct direction. Is this also happening to you? thanks in advance.

[TRF Drive Hard]

For the springs, shouldnt you use softer ones on a really technical track as well. Also, what stiffness are the springs that come with our cars

For a technical track yes, but depending on how you want your car to react is up to your driving style... i had a talk with a fellow racer at my lhs and we were talkin bout suspension settings... while he is set up soft in the rear and medium in the front, im ultra all around... he couldnt understand why... i told him with the surface im running on, my car can handle the stiffness... where as i know how my car reacts in a turn... and anticipate any changes the car might make... imho, spring types dont matter to me... :cool:

[thegreatimpulse]

hmmm... what do you think, TRF Drive Hard? You seems to be very experinced on tamiya touring cars.

[TRF Drive Hard]

If youre referring to your previous post... im not sure... i dont have a tt01... yet... been mostly into my highend cars like my 415... the only thing i can think of is maybe the spur gear is mount backwards... i dunno... this is the first i heard since the annex of this thread... btw, i am experienced with most tamiya tc kits... just not this one yet... :D :p

[turbo s15]

hey well kevin xb sorry about the race u had. If u need more top end try lookin at getting the spur gear set and using the 58 spur with the 22 pinion. U will have great accleration and better top speed :cool:




hey guys im thinking at getting the gpm titanium drive axles. What are ur thoughts on them?

[turbo s15]

hey i dont know if u guys seen this bad ass tt01 by kia but heres a link might be a repost http://www.kmodels-kai.com/index1.htm

[turbo s15]

then click on tt-01 on the left

[DaLurker]

then click on tt-01 on the left

Damn.. it's Japanese....