Team Losi Mini-T!

[jkerr0043]

Your servo probably stripped. Seems to be a problem with these trucks. You'll need to get the gear set or you can just get a whole replacement servo. I think they're only like $15.

As far as the color goes, spend $13 and get a clear body and paint it. Or they have other colors prepainted that don't come in the kits.

[spazmonkey]

Re: burned motor

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by spazmonkey
i installed the orion 7.2V battery in one mini-T and the Losi 7.2v battery in another.

within 10 minutes the one with the Losi battery burned up the stock motor and it took 2 hours for the orion one to burn up the other motor.

in both cases a plastic washer like thing inside had melted and deformed. ( i dont know what it called but it was at the plastic end where the motor opens.)

am i the only one this has happened to? or does every one upgrade immediately?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

reply to post

I also have the Losi 6c 7.2v and it lasted 2 hours and it died.

I waiting for my shipment of the Big Block motor.

What car was quicker or faster comparing those two packs???


reply to reply :
the orion seemed to be slightly faster in my opinion, my son ran the orion battery while i ran the losi battery.

his battery was quick charged for under 1 hour each time while i used the losi charger for 2 hours on mine. (once!)

i dont know if this matters as i am used to nitro engines.

[the rock]

cool.. thanks for the reply spazmonky lol

[kingt0m]

Originally posted by MrCrash
Oh, and I LOVE my bright red Mini-T:D :D :D :D

Yeah the red ones are the best. When i saw the little red one on display at my lhs i knew that even if it didnt move at all, it was worth getting just cause it looked so slick.

[MrCrash]

Originally posted by kingt0m
Yeah the red ones are the best. When i saw the little red one on display at my lhs i knew that even if it didnt move at all, it was worth getting just cause it looked so slick. I think that a part of the reason I like the shade of red so much is because it matches my Dakota!

Does anyone know when the new Losi Bodies are due out? I am already starting to wear down the body in a couple spots, and I have yet to finish off one set of AAs:p

[Casper]

The bodies are out there. The clear ones are VERY hard to get right now but Ultimate hobbies has the full array of prepainted bodies. They have the kit colors and about 10 other color combinations.

[spenzalii]

Don't know about those big block conversions, but if you can't wait for the motor plate or don't want to dremel anything, that Trinity motor is hands down the best drop in bang for the buck you can get. You will flip your truck at full throttle on 6 cells. For a direct fit and around $30, you can't go wrong

[tmaxxamt]

what about the team orion baja motor? Isnt that one supposed to be pretty good also?

[Casper]

Yeah it is a big block conversion though.

[hyperstang]

Here is my MINI T RACER. Guts taken out and replaced with Futaba ESC 230, novak xxl, big block adapter plate and we here to don't like dremeling or drilling or what ever. I raced Micros and have a bunch of Big Block and Speed 300. A 9.00 plate off of ebay and you have a wheelie Monster on your hands. So upgraded the pinion to the highest out there, a 15 or higher one. Wheelies on Carpet, but kills on the pavement. And the most important on my truck the Hitec 81MG servo. I have seen the 55 break to many times and the 81 or 85MG is the killer servo to have. Powering this bad boy is a Li Polymer 7.4V. Super lighter than the Orion, Losi, HPI 2/3rd's packs. Most of the weight is in the back with the speed 300, so my jumps are nice and flat. Just waiting on the oil filled shocks.

Race on..

[hyperstang]

Here is another....

[hyperstang]

Lets try that again..

[hyperstang]

My aluminum motor guard. If you want one that's good, but when you wheelie alot, best you stick with the stock ones and save you money for more screws for the rear pod.

Race on...

[the rock]

hyperstang

if I buy this novak xxl 27 will i be able to keep my stock controller?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNE03&P=7

And is this the ESC?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUY13&P=7

Thanks

[CK9887]

Ok, im making a 7 cell pack from 2/3 a cells for my mini t. Im a little confused on how to assemble and solder the pack together.
I will use seperate shrink wrap on each row to keep the batt tabs from rubbing eachother. So it will be kinda like a saddle pack.
What size wire do i use to connect the 2 rows? I know the mini t uses 22 awg but is this big enough?
Take a look at the pic.
Any ideas? with this config it will be tough to fit in the mini t but it was the most simple way i could think of making a 7 cell.

[hyperstang]

Rock,
Your set up looks good. I am just running an FM version of your setup you described. No mods needed to fit them in, however, you can't use the stock servo. You will need to upgrade. The HiTec 55 or something like that is a direct fit in with no modifications needed to the chassis. The MG servo I have in, which I recommend a Metal Gear Servo.; I needed to shave dowm the wall to make it fit. works great now and is a killer set up.

CK9887,
Use like a 14 gauge. Remeber thicker the gauge, more power goes to where ever you want.

[the rock]

hyperstang

which one of these two?:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN678&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN679&P=7

Thanks!!

[hyperstang]

Well,
The letter at the end just describes the connection at the end of the servo. If you run a novak, I woul stick with the Futaba conection. Go with the "J". You will need to modify the chassis in order for this to fit properly. Get your dremel ready.

[the rock]

its ready... thanks ;)

[CK9887]

ok, the set up looks ok?


I know the wires with the HPI connectors on them on the mini t are all 22awg.
So the only place to use the thicker wire is where im connecting the 2 rows of cells? and thats just 1 wire. Cuase the other wires have HPI connectors on them and only a small wire will work for those plugs.

[hyperstang]

I would stick with the same gauge wire all around in that case. Unless you want to convert your plugs to a Dean's Plug or something like that.

I was running li Ion batteries with the stock micro battery plugs, but switched to the poly batteries and changed the plug. Not a hard thing to do. But looks like it would work to me.

Race on...

[hyperstang]

With all those 2/3rds in there, you might want to invest in the oil filled shocks when they finally do come out.

[CK9887]

I ended up doing 6 cells becuase i didnt want to have trouble fitting the pack in the car and wasnt sure what the limit was at my track, I still have more cells though so i can make a 7 cell pack when i need to... If a 7 cell pack will make much difference?
I finished making the pack and it came out good. Im pleased with it considering this is my first time to build a pack. I put it in the car to see if there was juice and it was about half way charged and it was still much faster. I took it outside and was jumping the ramp that i used to jump my T3 with. It was great but the motor was a little hot running the 14t pinion (GWS 370c motor) so i will try and get a 13t.
But i have a problem. When i pick up the car and give it throttle and let off, the right tire will stop spinning before the left. I took off the wheel but it looked ok, do i need to take apart the diff and see if thats the problem?

Thanks

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by hyperstang
With all those 2/3rds in there, you might want to invest in the oil filled shocks when they finally do come out.
they are out, but not by losi. BRP already makes them

[the rock]

i was about to get the BRP ones... but they look like junk... nothing compared to the losi oil filled

[FLYBOY7]

pic of my Mini-T w/parma body...

btw... i heard PL is wanting to get out a mini-t crowd pleazer asap....

[SteveK]

Dude, can you turn down the brightness on that thing, it's hurting my eyes.

Well, at least you'll be able to see it easily on the track. With sunglasses on. And the lights off. :p

[hyperstang]

BRP Shocks looks like a bunch of VCS shocks for the micro...

Race on..

[FLYBOY7]

Steve, i think your eyes are extra light sensitive from tossing all those salads.... keep your head up in the light more and it won't hurt you so badly... :)

[SteveK]

Huh?
:confused:

[hyperstang]

ditto????

Anyway cool body flyboy. What's under the cover???

Race on...

[CK9887]

alright, since im goin gto be racing i need some input.
I have a GWS 370c motor and i just built a KAN 6cell pack, what else should i get to be set for racing?
Price is a factor, i think I will add Bearings and also do a HS 55 servo swap, theres an article on how to do it at one18th.com

Does that sound like a good setup to start with?

Next i will try oil shocks.
Since my budget is low i cant swap electronics right now.

[tarvymoto]

Bearings!!

I just dropped bearings in my mini t last night and I saw quite a HP differance. It was like going from a stock motor to a 19t

[electric130]

has anyone tried running the Energizer Lithium batteries that are made for digital cameras? they are much lighter than regular alkalines and last a really long time. i'm thinking of buying one of these for in the house. i have my Savage 25 to run outside, but want something to chase the dog inside.

Energizer Lithium Batteries (http://www.energizer.com/products/e2photo.asp)

just called Energizer and they are 2900mAh @ 1.5v cells! i think i'll try those first.

[Philly's Finest]

Interesting...

Any ideas on how much they cost?

[electric130]

they're usually $10-11 for 4 of them. i bought the mini-t yesterday and tried it in the store with the lithium batteries. it would pull wheelies no problem and that's with only 6V. i bought the 6 cell NiMH pack for it and charged it last night. we'll see later today how that compares. the guy at the LHS said that the 6cell will make it faster though. the lithiums are expensive, but may last quite awhile. if you were to race a stock AA class, then maybe they would be a good choice.

[creep]

If your not interested in racing or top speed you could also use the Energizer rechargables. I use them and get over an hour of run time. It doesn't pull wheelies from a dead start but from reverse to full throttle it will stand it almost straight up. They are still much faster than alkalines. They're about $10 for 4 and the 1 hr charger + 2 batteries was about $20

[dub-c]

I'm thinkning of getting a Mini-T today and was wondering if the oil-filled shocks of say a XXX-S or TC3 would work on the Mini-T? I know there's a compnay that has already came out with oil-filled on the Mini-T, but it seems like people are saying they're worthless. Also anyone know if Losi's shocks for it will be out soon? Thanks

[jkerr0043]

I tried to put a set of spare XXXS shock on mine but they were too short for the rear. I'm patient, I'll wait for the Losi's. I've got my SPY and XXL and bearings on the way from Tower. Just waiting on the shocks and I'll be set.

[dub-c]

thanks jkerr, I'm still somewhat undecided about getting one :confused: , but maybe I will end up driving to the lhs later today. They do look damn fun. :D

[jkerr0043]

They are a blast. I haven't been able to drive mine much since I got it. I killed the ESC receiver unit two days after I got it and needed to let the cash build up to replace the electronics with the high end stuff. I just can't leve well enough alone. The only thing I'd say you NEED is a battery other than AA's. Bearings are nice but not a must have right off the bat.

[slaf]

I just got my Mini-T 3 hours ago !!! It's really great ! Any recomendation about those upgrades...I have already installed the bearings.

1) Shocks
2) New motor
3) Battery pack
4) ESC

I want to have the more run-time as possible.

[jkerr0043]

I'd have to put them in this order:
1) Battery
2) Motor
3) Shocks (Mainly because they're not out yet)
4) ESC - When you do an ESC, you'll have to do all the electronics, i.e. ESC, receiver, and servo. All the brains for the servo are in the ESC/Receiver unit.

[hyperstang]

slaf,
As for hop ups, you could go as far as motors to steering servo's. As for cheap hop ups, I would just go with a Nimh 7.2V with an Monster motor, speed 300 or big block. As for my self, I have some photos on the other thread and I run MG HiTec servo, Speed 300 running with a li polymer battery. A futaba ESC is good (230 or 330), but I did see some spy's in there. Last Novak XXL and of course bearings.

this bad boy wheelies on command and can hold the wheelie fairly well on carpet. I upgraded my spur gear to the highest one and I have great top end and decent bottom end.


I just got through pre-ordering the mamba/lehner brushless combo and I can't wait for this bad boy to come in.

Race on...

[hyperstang]

Jker..

You might want to check out BRP's website on some shocks that came out for the mini T. I to am waiting on Losi's shocks for the Mini T.

[the rock]

Originally posted by hyperstang

this bad boy wheelies on command and can hold the wheelie fairly well on carpet. I upgraded my spur gear to the highest one and I have great top end and decent bottom end.


I just got through pre-ordering the mamba/lehner brushless combo and I can't wait for this bad boy to come in.

Race on...

hey hyper,

what connectors do I need to get for all these to work together. remember im getting the xxl, the esc and the servo you have!!!

thanks

[hyperstang]

Well,
Which connectors, the connectors to the receiver or connectors to the ESC.

For the connectors to the receiver, I have all Futaba "J" connectors. For the engine and the battery, I use Dean's. I don't use the micro plugs becuase I use the Li Polymer batteries and 7.4V coming from a Lithium battery would flow better and not over heat with the Dean's plug.

Race on...

[MrCrash]

I was just at the store, and I found a nice upgrade for the Mini-T. They are 2000MAh NiMH AA batteries that recharge in 15 minutes. I might go withdraw some cash, and buy a set. Too bad it was like 45 dollars total:(

[electric130]

Originally posted by MrCrash
I was just at the store, and I found a nice upgrade for the Mini-T. They are 2000MAh NiMH AA batteries that recharge in 15 minutes. I might go withdraw some cash, and buy a set. Too bad it was like 45 dollars total:( for that price, you'd be better off buying the 6-cell NiMH pack. better performance for less money.

[the rock]

Can someone help me please:

My friend just bought this:

http://www.taiyoedge.com/taiyo/eh/index.htm

it comes with a: 9.6V NiCd battery pack and 4-hour quick charger

It last for about 5 minutes run time. It has three motors. What battery can he get to improve run time???

OR do you think he can change motors and pack etc and make it much faster etc???

Sorry for the off subject question but theres electric knowledged people here ;)

[SteveK]

What is the capacity of the battery included (It should say on there someplace: XXXXmah)? Try starting a thread in the main electric forum, you'll reach more people.

[Wallis Racing]

Hey all,
just got my Mini-T yesterday, put bearings and 6cell pack in it and the stock motor only lastest 1/2 a batt before it went all chunky and clicky... my mate got one too, running them with the same setup and his motor went at the end of his first battery. when he went home, he pulled the motor apart and the magnets were cracked.

so today i moded my motor plate and installed my Peak Performance Chubby motor in my Mini-T(ripped it outa my micro) and after 1 batt the motor is wrecked, same as the stock, it is clicky in one direction and wont even spin in the other dirrection.

i am jumping the little sucker about...maybe... no higher then 1metre, and landing on concrete. so i'd say thats whats smashing the magnets... but it should be able to take more then that!

is anybody else having this prob? and what can i do to help it... besides not jumping it, cause that AINT gunna happen. maybe an alloy rear bumper?

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Wallis Racing]

Oh, BTW, when i say Mini-T, what i mean is Team Associated RC10GT Factory Team Edition Team Losi Mini-T;) :p

Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[electric130]

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
i am jumping the little sucker about...maybe... no higher then 1metre, and landing on concrete. so i'd say thats whats smashing the magnets... but it should be able to take more then that!

is anybody else having this prob? and what can i do to help it... besides not jumping it, cause that AINT gunna happen. maybe an alloy rear bumper?

anyways,
Mad Man are you running the stock shocks or oil filled? if stock, then upgrade. if oil filled, i'd say take it easy on the truck. they're not designed to be indestructable! if you want more jumping, get a bigger truck.

[tarvymoto]

Wallis , you need to install a length of fuel tubing over the rear shock shafts so that they tubing stops the truck from bottoming out. You want the fuel tubing to be just long enough to stop the chassis from hitting the groung. It's easy to intsall the tubing if you make a small vertical slit in it before you put it on...just wrap it around the shock-shaft. That way you don't have to mess with pulling of shock ends ect...

That should save your motors.;)

[Grifter]

So are theer any Motors that fit the Mini-T?

On eBay they are selling Orion Big Blocks and are stating that they'll fit it.

Thanks.

[slaf]

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
Oh, BTW, when i say Mini-T, what i mean is Team Associated RC10GT Factory Team Edition Team Losi Mini-T;) :p

Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

I was waiting on AE to get a 1/18 stadium truck but Losi released it before, so I went to Losi. This is my first Losi.....Nice truck !

[slaf]

Originally posted by hyperstang
slaf,
... As for cheap hop ups, I would just go with a Nimh 7.2V with an Monster motor, speed 300 or big block....

What is the run time ? Is the original ESC tough enough ?

[jkerr0043]

You're jumping this thing a meter in the air onto concrete! No wonder you killed the motor. I broke the receiver internals jumping it about a foot, maybe 18" onto asphault. I'm surprised you didn't do more damage, especially with the stock shocks.

[hyperstang]

Grifter,
If you want the Big Block or Speed 300 motor to fit into the Mini T, you will need to dremel the stock motor plate. Or you could get a plate on ebay that fits the big block motors with no modifications. All you do is install the new plate from the stock.

Slaf,
The runtime on the stock motor with the 7.2V is all depends on the MaH on the batteries. But with the 7.4V 1500MaH li polymer running a speed 300, I get about 10 good min of full on, wheelie power. With the stock motor, maybe a little longer.

[slaf]

Is this a good motor for my Mini-T ?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAYU7&P=7

[spenzalii]

I think that is a 180 stock motor. The Losi uses a 280 sized motor - between the stock and big block. So, that may or may not fit depending on the mounting holes. For a stock sized motor, either the Speed 280BB or teh Trinity monster motor is a very good choice. I give the slight nod to the Speed280 because it has ball bearings instead of bushings like the Trinity

[AreCee]

Originally posted by slaf
Is this a good motor for my Mini-T ?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAYU7&P=7
Not really, you would have to modify the motor plate because the motor mount holes are closer together than the stock Mini-T's. Also this may not have enough power to move the Mini-T faster than the stock motor.

As long as you want to modify the motor plate you might as well go for the Big Block for only a few dollars more or wait for the Baja (Orion) or the Raider (Peak) to be available, both are variations of the Big Block and are being made to fit the Mini-T with no modifications.

[hyperstang]

All are good motors for the Mini T. I just put my order in for the Mamba brushless. Should be in the first week of Feb hopefully. Can't wait to test this bad boy out.

Race on...

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
Oh, BTW, when i say Mini-T, what i mean is Team Associated RC10GT Factory Team Edition Team Losi Mini-T;) :p

Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com) ROTFL!!!!:D :D

[Grifter]

Originally posted by hyperstang
Grifter,
If you want the Big Block or Speed 300 motor to fit into the Mini T, you will need to dremel the stock motor plate. Or you could get a plate on ebay that fits the big block motors with no modifications. All you do is install the new plate from the stock.


Ok, thanks. Doesnt the Big Block come with a Motor Plate, or is there one that is specifically made to fit the Mini-T?

Also, do they sell Oil Shocks for the Mini-T yet? Links!?

Thanks.

[slaf]

Originally posted by Grifter
Also, do they sell Oil Shocks for the Mini-T yet? Links!?

Thanks.

Where I take all my stuff, www . greathobbies . com sell them 35$CDN

[slaf]

Hi !

I just ran my Mini-T about 2 hours now but I have a question.

Is this normal that my stock Mini-T (running with 4-AA) can't do wheelies ?

[jkerr0043]

The only way you'll get a bone stock MiniT to do wheelies is by backing up on high traction surface and pegging the throttle. Add two more cells or a better motor and it's cake to wheelie.

[spenzalii]

That is absolutely normal. If you swap to just a 5 cell pack, you'll wonder what the heck you were thinking in the first place. 6 cells and the motor swap, and you will be surprised just how fast something so small will go

The only 300 I know of that comes with th eplate is the TO Baja motor. I think there's a plate floating around somewhere.

As for teh shocks, I'm not sure they're out yet, but word has it they will be within a week or so. If you have a LHS, I'd pre order them now. My shop ordered 20 sets, and will probably sell all of them the first weekend

[FLYBOY7]

about the stock shocks.... i filled the bodies full of micro rs-4 shock grease... but i really didn't get much damping out of that...

one of the guys i race with filled his shock bodies with tire foam, and seems to be getting better results.... (at least on compression damping anyways)....

and for all you guys just getting your mini T's.... every person i've seen that ran 6 cells on the stock motor burnt it up.... so you might want to stay at 5 cells or less on the stock 280 motor...

lastly...

here are the weakest points i've seen so far...

1. parts (any parts) are hard (nearly impossible) to get in my area right now

2. stock servo is pathetic (mine was stripped when i pulled it out of the box)

3. stock tie rods are made out of warm butter, they bend constantly (stock ball studs are made out of butter as well)

those are the weak points from what i've seen... i still haven't broken one single part while driving yet...

some guys have been having problems keeping the diff alive... but i'm running decent hp on carpet and mine is still alive and well.... the shocks are hideous at best, but there really aren't good replacements right now so everyone is living with them....

[slaf]

Will this be a good motor for my Mini-T ?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=TRI11990&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

[spenzalii]

That's the one! You may also try this one:

The Second Motor (http://www.hobby-lobby.com/speed280.htm)

[treepete]

So I got my Mini-T about 2 weeks ago with bearings and the losi 5 cell pack. Seemed pretty cool, but the stock electronics were garbage( 20 feet of range and it was glitchy!). I then bought a Hitec HS-55, and took my GM V3R out of my Micro RS4. Along with the novak xxtra. It controls sawweeeeet now with my M8. A thousand times better. Now the kicker. Cheapbatterypacks make an 8-cell Kan 2/3AA battery and sells them on Ebay claiming brushless performance with the stock motor for 19.99. They aren't kidding. I've run 4 packs through it and it screams for 15-20 solid minutes. Wheelies are no problem. From what you guys are saying tho I should be burning out my motor but it doesn't even get hot. Just thought I'd share my experience.

[hyperstang]

Wait a min...

You are saying that you are running an 8 cell battery with stock motor and the motor doesn't get hot......

That's a good thing. I went through two stock motors with a Li Polymer battery pushing out 7.4V and blew every single one. What's the secret???

As for brushless performance with a stock motor...I don't know about that, but try checking out one18th.com website for the lehner/warrior engine & Controller combo. there are two video's on their brushless system. WICKED....WICKED.....WICKED FAST. Just pre-ordered mine and should be here in Feb.

Race on...

[FLYBOY7]

i installed Lundsfords all the way around today.... most of the rod ends had to be shaved down so they wouldn't make contact to the truck.... but they will fit... i did have one problem, when installing losi ball ends, i was tightening one up, and cracked a hub carrier all the way through... so if anyone goes up to the bigger ballstuds and tie-rods, be Careful when you tighten the ball studs down...

and hey tree... either you got lucky with a good stocker, or your motor is on the edge of a smokey death... LOL... hope yours lives though....

i have been running an LRP quantum sport in my Mini-T.... but i ordered in a GM V4... it's rated up to 10 cells, a lot of people run them in their micro's, it's roughly the size of a XXL, and it's dirt cheap at about 55 clams .... anybody know of a good charger DC only charger that goes up to 10 cells off a 12v power supply??? or i could use a 3 cell 11 volt li-po with it...

lastly... that trinity motor, isn't it just a re-stickered 280 race??

[Wallis Racing]

Hey all,
how many cells can the stock esc take? right now im running 6 cells on a speed 300, but its just not fast enough. My micro is running 6 cells on the speed 300 too, and has a GM V4 esc, and i know that can handle a few more cells, so im gunna make a few 7 or 8 cells packs and i wanna know if the losi esc will handle that?

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Temjin006]

Anyone here runs a 300 class motor such as the Trinity Micro Monster motor or the new Team Orion Baja Micro Motor with a Novak SPY ESC. I am planning to get this esc because it's small and cheap. I am going to pair it up with a XXL rx so i can use my fm radio.

For the servo, which is the easiest way to mod it. Get the HS-55 or should I shave the chassis and get the 81MG. I dont understand what I have to do for the servo arm and saver if I get the 81MG. For the HS-55, all i need is to swap the stock servo's output gear with the HS-55, right?

[Wallis Racing]

also, how many cells can the speed 300 handle? because i know its only cheap, but at the same time, i dont want to be replaceing it every batterey...

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[FLYBOY7]

one of the guys at the track runs 8 cells (9.6v) on his Graupner 300 with no problems... he's run dozens of packs on it, and it still runs fine... with his 8 2/3 A cells off a 14 pinion on a 300, his mini-t looks as fast as a T4 with a p-2-k-2 pro....

i haven't personally seen anyone run more than that on a 300... i'll be going to 8 as soon as my V4 gets in...

and several guys at the track are running 7 cells on their stock electronics with no ill effects to the speedo.... (it does cook the stock motor pretty fast though... LOL)... i have never seen anyone run 8 on the stock speedo, so i can't say if it'll live or not on that many cells....

after really looking into the servo situation, there still isn't a good solution... you can run an 81 or 85mg, but then you have to really cut the chassis.... this has been leading to broken frames on big crashes, not good considering it might take you months to find a new one..... the 55 is pretty easy to mount, but it's not metal gear, and has pretty pathetic performance... (i've stripped out two of them now)....

what is needed is a servo the size of the 55, but with metal gears, none are available right now that i have seen... or... a new chassis that is a tad longer that gives a bit more space for a decent servo....

[FLYBOY7]

temjin... yes.. on the 55, all you need to do is remove the output gear of the stock servo and re-install it in the 55... pretty easy.... i drilled a couple new holes on the 55 mounting tabs so it would mount just like the stocker and it fits perfect... the guys running 81's and 85's are using a bit of shoe goo and the pressure of the top plate to hold their servo's in.....

[treepete]

hyperstang- I've seen thode vids. That's what sealed it for me to get a Mini-T. As for the motor not burning, I think the secret is not keeping it floored all the time and kind of feathering it and only using the power when u really need it. Who knows it may blow up today! It's superquick tho.

flyboy- I absolutely love my V6R (I said V3R in my other post...oops). I used it in my micro RS4 for a long time and it's awesome. For a charger look at intellipeak digital pulse. The power supply will need replacing eventually so I got the N-Power and it's served all of my charging needs.

Temjin006- Since I moved my V6R to my Mini-t, I replaced the Micro Rs4 with a Spy. Their web site says 300 size max motor and I have a big block and it works smooooooth. Can't use more than 6 cells tho. Also, when I put in my HS-55 I just used a drill bit and manually shaved it out(from hex to almost round just slightly smaller than the servo) and screwed it together and it works great. Haven't stripped anything yet!

WallisRacing- I used my 8-cell packs before my electronics swap and had awesome power. I ran about 3 packs throug this way and had no problems. Rich from Losi advises against this but I was about to swap anyway so I didn't care if it fried. But it didn't! Hope that helps. Good ? on the speed 300 cells limit. I'd like to know myself.

[treepete]

Thanks Fly for the speed 300 info. I'll buy one today!

[treepete]

.

[Wallis Racing]

Thanks heaps flyboy and treepete!

i will make up a few 8 cell packs to run in both my mini-t and my micro. my micro should be fine with this, im running a V4R and the speed 300 in that, my mini-t will be a little iffy tho, seeing as im going to try put 9.6 volts though the stock esc :confused: but we will see. if it blows up, then i guess its a good excuse to grab a new reciever, a V4R and a 81 or 85 servo:D

so you all reckon 8 cells on the speed 300 is a good thing? not going to need replacing ever 4 runs?

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[BloodClod]

Hi guys,

My Mini-T seems to have an irritating habit of - for lack of a better word - "turning-on-the-spot".

When I'm running at anything higher than 1/2 throttle, and so long as the steering goes past the 2/3 mark in either direction, the truck will almost do a 360 on the spot. Almost seems like the inside wheel stops moving and only the outer ones spins.

It's frustrating because I get inconsistent handling and must really watch the turns.

I'm running 7.2 volts on a standard 300 size motor... so the truck does move faster than with 4AA cells on the stock motor.

Oh... this is running on high traction surfaces like tarmac.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?
Can anyone shed light on what is causing it?
And lastly, anyone have advise how to remedy it?

Thank you very much - any input is most appreciated. :)

[treepete]

Hey Bloodclod- I would first start with bearings (8-4x8mm) in the wheels. It just rolls much better and will only help. At high speeds dialing the steering dual rate all the way down usually helps alot too.

[FLYBOY7]

blood... what you have is severe oversteer at speed...

1. make sure your battery is moved all the way to the rear (i use a piece of foam right in front of my pack to make sure it sits to the rear)

2. if you are using pre-load spacers in the rear, remove them

3. make sure your rear wheel nuts are not overtightened....

the mini-t has such a short wheelbase, that it does get pretty twichty at higher speeds... so it's also kinda the nature f the beast... but you can make the condition not so bad...

[FLYBOY7]

yo pete... i looked up that intellipeak charger.. and it looks like it only charges up to 8 cells.... i run a comp electronics Pit bull and an LRP pulsar comp... both can charge up to 8 cells... i'm looking for a charger that will do 10 cells off a 12v power supply... i'm thinking maybe some of the old Tekins would do that... but i don't know of any new chargers that will... if anybody knows, please post...

but, if i'm going to have to buy a new charger for 10 cells, i could just buy a li-po charger... and buy a 3 cell li-po pack, which puts out slightly over 11 volts (which is slightly higher voltage than 9 ni-cad or ni-mh cells)... although, i'm not real hip on li-po because of the fire hazzard....

[Casper]

Ultimate hobbies has oil filled shocks in stock. They have already sold about 150 pairs and have about 75 pairs left in stock! $24.95

www.ultimatehobbies.com

714-921-0424

[FLYBOY7]

if anyone is thinking about going to li-po packs (like me), check out this info about them....

www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=152536

that is a thread with all the info you might need about li-po's....

[Temjin006]

What are you guys use for you mini t. I am looking for some go quality 7.2v that are at low prices. I am looking at the dynamite packs. I am looking for some name brand packs because I get discount at my LHS. If it is branded and he can get from the distributors then I can get discount.

[treepete]

Right on Casper! Thanks much for the heads up...I just ordered. Man, I can't wait for those babys!

[Casper]

They are pretty sweet. I have seen them installed. I think the stock front springs may be a little too light but the truck is still WAY BETTER then with the standard shocks which of course is a DUH! :D

[hyperstang]

FlYBOY!!

I to am racing my Mini T with Li Poly 7.4V pack. Way lighter than the 2/3 battery packs and gives awesome power. Combined with a speed 300, I am a wheelie aholic. But you can't win races doing wheelies, but sure does look good.

Waiting on my Lehner/Mamba brushless combo to come in for the mini T. Can't wait.

Race on...

[FLYBOY7]

hyper.. so you using 2 li-po cells in series? or 4 cells, 2 pairs in series parrelled to each other??

and what charger you using? a titan??

[MBX5_RacerX]

I just bought a new MINI-T today. tarded the guy at my LHS the stock servo for a hitec hs-55, and got an airtronics mini speed control. Brought it home, put my micro receiver from my m8 in it, and away it went. runs great. Just need to figure out a servo saver for the hitec.

[treepete]

Nice job MBX5. Now sell the old electronics on Ebay! M8 all the way hey! U Shoulda took the saver too. I just drilled mine out a little and it works great on the hs-55. Which battery u usin?

[treepete]

I have to say again that I'm really happy with this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3171271939&category=49219

It wouldn't fit in my Micro RS4, but it is awesome in the Mini-T. I timed it tonight and I was poppin wheelies for 18 min and medium speed for 5 more!

[FLYBOY7]

what speedo you running with that 8 cell pack tree?? and what motor?? a big block pulls about 550 mah in 5 minutes with a 14 pinion while racing...

[MBX5_RacerX]

TREEPETE - I'm using the losi battery. Well, I did bring the saver with me. But I screwed up!! I tried to drill it out, and put one of the spline center parts of a servo horn fron the 55. It's too big. The end of the saver came off. Next time, I'l just make the hole a little bigger and kind of force it (not really force it) on to the 55.


Does anybody know just how good the Airtronics micro esc is. I bought it only because I wanted to use my M8. and it was the smallest esc they had. It seems to be working real good, but I have nothing to compare it with. And I wonder if it will handle the 9.6v packs?

[Casper]

I put the oil shocks on my mini last night. Now that losi put instructions on the web I installed them wrong but what a difference!! Two of use ran with shocks and there was another guy who was running the stock setup. The truck is WAY fun to drive with the shocks. It is pretty amazing how well these little things handle. I still need bearings and now I need more power since I can put it to the track! :D

http://www.teamlosi.com/techtips/Minit/shock_mounting.htm

[treepete]

MBX- Web site says the es_01 esc can only handle 7.2(6cells) Who knows what it can really handle!

Wow Casper..that was fast!Where are you and what kind of shipping did u use?I'm wondering when they'll get to WI via UPS Ground.

[Casper]

I live in southern california and picked them up from Ultimate Hobbies! They got about 200 sets of shocks Tues and if they continued selling as fast as I saw they should be close to out at this time.

[treepete]

Yup....the web site says they're out already! I hope I got in on time! Thanks again for the heads up.

[dub-c]

What's up everyone? I just got my mini-t on Wednesday. It's sweet! I'll be getting the shocks for it soon as well as a battery and motor.

Quick question: Is there a good way to take off the rod ends? I've tried just using some needle nose pliers, but I'm afraid to break the rod end.

[AreCee]

dub-c - just grab the ball end with the pliers and twist it off, it should pop off with no damage.

I got my Mini-T and it was only so so with the stock motor and 4 alkaline cells.

Upgraded to 6 cell packs and it's nice somewhat faster.

Next item was a Trinity motor, very nice. Good speed and fun wheelies.

Today I got a Racer's Edge Big Block motor plate and bolted in the big block. Yowwwweeee! That's one fast little truck. Can't wait for the shocks to drop it on a track and race the little guy.

[jkerr0043]

Picked up my shocks today when I went to the track for practice. They were still checking them in when I walked in and told Sean "Give em to me! I want them!" Now just need to get them and the bearings installed and I'll be all set.

[dub-c]

Called my lhs and of course they still don't have the shocks yet and the ball bearings are out of stock! Oh well, I'll guess I'll order on the web; no problems with that.

So far I'm thinking of getting: (in no order)

-Orion 6C battery
-MRC Superbrain 959 charger (since my charger from 12 years ago is officially dead)
-Orion Baja Motor with the plate
-Losi oil filled shocks
-ball bearings

After playing around with that for a while I may look into new electronics, that is if I have any money left :D


Well, I just ordered the shocks and bb's online. I saw a 6C Peak battery for the mini- t that was 1200mah, that seemed pretty good.

[AreCee]

This is weird. I lost the dual rate control on the radio. Did this happen to anyone else? I'm waiting for a 27MHz module for my 3PK so I'm not interested in another transmitter and I was going to stay with the stock electronics for a while but I may change them out sooner than I anticipated.

Anyone ever check out the servos from Futaba (S3107), Tower TS-5 or 10, or Hobbico CS-5 or 10? All these are almost direct bolt in for size and torque.

[AreCee]

Sorry, I meant Futaba S3103, Hobbico CS-5, or Tower TS-5. They all seem to be stronger than the stock servo and faster with the same size case. The prices range from $22 to $28. Also the Airtronics 94091Z.

[MBX5_RacerX]

Just want to let you guys know that the ES01 from Airtronics can not quite handle the mini-t. I burnt mine up last night. I was running a small (25 ft. long) oval, and it fried. It might be a defect, but I won't try another one.

[SteveK]

No, I don't think that's a defect: The Tower Hobbies info page on the ES01 says it's only good for 130 size motors (Probably work on the 180 in the Micro RS4 too). The kid I bought my Micro RS4 from had an ES01 at first, and ignored my advice and went and used it with a Big Block and too many cells. He was on AIM at the time, and he's saying he's going to try it, then there's a pause and I see "AAH! Now it's on fire!"

I recommend sticking with a 'big car' ESC, just to be safe. There are many that are as small and as cheap as 'micro' ESCs, but you don't run into any problems with motor limits. Two such ESCs are te Futaba MC230 and GM Racing V3R. I have one of each and both are nice little units, small, smooth, and about $50 each.

[Combatcm]

I want someone who had this car for a while to answer this. I really wasn't looking to get this car, but for a resonable price at the LHS for 149 I thought it was too good to pass up. Is this car fun over a long period of time? Will it get boring within the first 2 weeks? I was thinking about using it at a track, but the car would need to go over 25 mph to take advantage of all the doubles and tabletops. What speeds are you guys getting these things to go?

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hey, what is the fastest and best motor to put in this? Only mod to it i want to do would be a new motor plate.

[slaf]

Originally posted by Combatcm
I want someone who had this car for a while to answer this. I really wasn't looking to get this car, but for a resonable price at the LHS for 149 I thought it was too good to pass up. Is this car fun over a long period of time? Will it get boring within the first 2 weeks? I was thinking about using it at a track, but the car would need to go over 25 mph to take advantage of all the doubles and tabletops. What speeds are you guys getting these things to go?

Stock, it goes to 10mph, with new motor and battery pack, you can go 22-25mph. I love mine, I only installed bearings but planning to get new motor and battery pack very very soon.

[FLYBOY7]

couple pics tonight.... this one, front end... Hs55 servo, Losi oil shocks, bearings, foams, Lundsfords, Rpm rod ends, losi ball studs....

[FLYBOY7]

rear shot.... GM V4, Orion Big Block, Losi Oil shocks, Lundsfords, foams, ect ect...

[slaf]

Will this work fine in my Mini-T ?

Any 1/10th ESC with reverse

+

Venom 1100 NIMH micro pack

+

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGFM5&P=7

[FLYBOY7]

about servo's.... the closest thing i've seen to the hs-55 size is a futaba... i think it was a 3101 or maybe a 3107.. it was $50, but still plastic geared, and the chassis would still have to be dremeled.... i have not seen the 3103...

and yo slaf.... that monster motor is a bit sluggish on less than 6 cells... it really comes alive on 8... i would say it's no faster than the stocker on 5 (and i have one)...

combat... i've been racing mine indoor carpet... about a 35' x 50' road course... lap times are about 10 seconds flat for me driving my BL B4... about 11 seconds flat with my mod mini-t.... and the fastest stock touring car guys turn 9 second flat laps... so the mini-t can be pretty quick on that small of a track... but the bigger the track, the slower it will feel... the main drawback to racing a mini-t right now is lack of parts, if you break something, you only have a 50/50 shot of anyone having the replacement (much higher in some areas, and much less in others), and some parts are just not available at all... i know guys that had to buy an entire new mini-t just for parts....

blue... you don't need a new motor plate for any of the motors we've mentioned as long as you have a dremel.... i've run the stocker, the monster, the big block, and a speed 400 in mine with the stock plate, and my fav right now is the big block/speed 300... if you can find a grauper speed 300 6v, you'll really dig it (and they are only 10 bucks)....

[Ferrari_Spyder]

hey, im about to spend $500 on a buggy setup, and that will pretty much clear me out of cash. once this summer hits ill try to find a job though and since i dont pay bills cash wont be too much of a problem i dont think. so this is what i am thinking: buy mini -t forget buggy, hop up mini-t over the next two years, then sell and buy a buggy cus i will have $$$ OR buy buggy, slowly get cash, buy mini-t later etc... i dont know what to do?! i want a mini-t so bad but i want to go racing with a buggy so bad. i think it makes sense to go with the cheaper thing now and then once i have more money, buy a buggy?! but i want to race a buggy!

okay, i think i got it...

how long would it take with a buggy to learn to drive b4 i raced? say it takes 2 years, i might as well have a mini-t in those years that i wont be racing right?

so okay i think i figured it out finally

takes 2years or more to learn to drive buggy= buy mini-t
learn to drive<2years=buy buggy

will i be a better buggy driver if i had run a mini-t for 2 years b4 rather than not?

sry for the confusion, could somebody help me try to figure out if i should get the mini-y or a buggy?

[SteveK]

I don't think it would take 2 years to learn to drive a buggy well enough to race: As long as you can make it around the track without crashing all the time, you would be OK to race. You'll be surprised how quickly you pick up driving.

If you want to go racing, see which class is more popular first. The Mini-T is still pretty new, and you never know if racing will take off in your area. Not that the truck won't be fun outside of racing, but if you want to race it, keep in mind that not all new classes stick (I've been burned three times by the LHS: Bolink Legends, RC10DS, and TL01, and I'm pretty sure they won't be racing Mini-Ts for very long, if at all).

[SteveK]

Regarding servos, check www.servocity.com for good size comparisons of different servos.

On another website I saw a guy put a Hitec HS-81 in his truck. Like most other servos you have to trim the brace behind the stock servo, and either glue the stock servo saver to one of the servo's horns, or use an HPI Micro RS4 servo saver. I think he had to trim the ears from the HS-81, but I don't think servo tape would be a problem in this truck.

[AreCee]

Well I got my answer about the servos. The Sub-Micro (Nano) servos are the right size to drop into the Mini-T without having to modify the chassis. The downside is that all use a smaller output shaft and none of the available servo savers will fit.

I'm making my own servo saver just like we did in airplanes (more of a tight overtravel protection) and it will fit the Mini-T and Sub-Micro servo. It's more limited in travel than a regular saver but it's better than nothing. Right now I'm continuing to use the stock electronics but the radio is really poor quality (I use a Futaba 3PK for my other RC). I have an AM Module for my 3PK on order but who knows if it will ever be delivered.

The Orion Big Block, 7.2V and 13T pinion really moves this little guy and I was able to clear a couple doubles on the local 1/8 scale track. Tabletops were no problem. That really impressed some of the racers. The stock shocks really hamper the performance, it's way to bouncy on a rutted track at the speeds this motor can do.

[jjl]

what do you think the chances are of Losi eventually coming out with a Graphite + version of the Mini-T? i bought the XXX-T when it first came out and wished i had waited for the Matt Francis, after plowing the bucks into the stock truck.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

aslong as people are buying them, there is a market for them

a lot of people i know are holding out for a pro version with no electronics

and we dont all have to wait for losi, im sure others will soon jump inot the scene

i cant wait til associated comes out with one, let the madness begin

the hopups will be flying of the shelves faster than losi/associated could make them

lol

im gettin a buggy

part of the reason for wanting a mini-t so bad was cus i was thinkin this is my chance to get something cool and new

there will be more no doubt

[dub-c]

I ran a set of AAs unil they were dead then tightened the clutch a little the next set of AAs my gearbox was noticably louder. I loosened the clutch back to where it was and it is still loud. Has anyone else noticed this. I read several pages back that the gears are not greased. Will greasing them quiet it down a little?

Thanks

[MBX5_RacerX]

I put grease in mine and it did not stop the noise. I think is someone would make an aluminum, or steel gear set, it would help. But, I'm by no means an expert.

[Casper]

dub-c-- Make sure that the motor did not move and you still have a good gear mesh. Since it is an rtr car you never know how well they put the car together. If the gear mesh is too tight you will get lots of noise.

[slaf]

Here's my stock Mini-T with a 3" jump made with an empty ring binder :)

[SteveK]

Originally posted by MBX5_RacerX
I put grease in mine and it did not stop the noise. I think is someone would make an aluminum, or steel gear set, it would help. But, I'm by no means an expert.

Losi said the gears and servo are so loud because they had to make them as rugged as they could. Finer pitch gears would be smoother, but weaker.

The plastic is also very rigid, which doesn't absord as much sound as softer stuff.

[Combatcm]

I just bought the mini T, along with bearings and the orion 7.2v battery. It's fun to run up pillows or off beds. I like the shocks and how they are all bouncy. Never had an opportunity to open it up because it's snowing. I don't like the transmitter, the trigger goes slow back the the neutral position, it needs either a good oiling or a tighter spring. Oh yea, whenever I jump a foot or two off the ground, the ball cups pop off on one side all the time. Anybody have that problem?

[SteveK]

I haven't had that problem with the rod-ends, but just flexing the suspension I can see where it would happen: The front suspension travel is limited by how far the rod ends can deflect, not the shocks. The shocks can actually go further than that. If you land hard, like off a 2' jump, and force the suspension to compress past the point where the rod ends can handle it, they will pop off.

Try putting some limiters on the shocks, so they don't over-extend the tie rods.

[FLYBOY7]

the tie-rods bend wayyy too easily, and the rod ends pop off like mad... the Losi hop end parts are "supposed" to hit LHS doors in about 3 weeks...

i've switched to lundsfords and regular size ball studs, but before i did, i would have different camber and toe-in every time i would tap a pipe while racing... LOL...

[Combatcm]

Am I really beating this thing? I broke the front shock tower at the screws and I tore off the battery hold down post with the clip attached. I ramped it off a 8 inch high wood jump in my house. I'll replace them, but I'll get aluminum ones later.

[the rock]

.

[FLYBOY7]

you can jump an HPI micro rs-4 off the roof of your house and it won't break (i know first hand).. and u can play demo-derby with for hours and it won't break (bone stock)... but land a little bit wrong with a Losi and plan a trip to your LHS.... LOL....

ever since Horizon bought Losi, the plastic quality has went down the toilet... i broke a front hub carrier on my mini-t just by tightening down a ball stud.... LOL... but i've also seen guys plow a foot tall ramp full speed and get about 3' high with 10' distance and not break one (well, at least not for the first 3 attempts, then he broke it in half.. LOL)... all i can say is, i can't wait for the AE version to come out with better plastic...

[Combatcm]

Yea, this thing really needs to be an aluminum block to not break. Let's see what I can do with the shock tower with zip ties.

[SteveK]

That's true of many cars and trucks: They can take some real beatings and be fine, but on the weakest looking crash or ding something can go pop. It's happened to me a couple of times, breaking the rear hub carrier on the original 10T on a slow tuble at the race track after years of bashing and crashing. Another was my MRC MT10S: Those things will really take a pounding, but I just skidded off the side of a wood ramp with the stock 540 motor, did a little cartwheel down the driveway, and the rear axle bent on me.

And not that I'm accusing anybody here, but you never know what somebody was doing to their car or truck to break it. The guy in the LHS telling you "Man, that car is junk, I broke a half-dozen parts on my first run!" might not be telling you he was running a 12 turn motor with 7 cells, and jumping off a 4 foot ramp onto pavement.

I'd love to see RPM make all the parts for the Mini-T out of their plastic: It might be a little heavier, and a little more flexible, but I bet nobody would break anything.

[jkerr0043]

Personally, I don't agree about AE having better molded parts. I broke as many or more parts on my TC3's when I ran them as I have my Losi cars. I broke a TC3 arm once when I brushed a wall flush and caught a wheelnut on the head of a nail! It all depends on how you hit. I've been running (and jumping) my miniT on asphault since Xmas and the only thing I've broken were the electronics. Now that I've got the oil shocks, landings are smooth and I'm sure that will be more forgiving as well.

[electric130]

for those burning up their stock motors on 6-cell packs, how long did it take? i have ran 5 packs of a 6-cell NiMH pack through my stock motor, did some carpet racing at a LHS with mini-jumps and the motor is still going strong. a friend of mine used to be sponsored by East Coast Motors and has box-fulls of brand new 540 motors sitting in his closet. i think it would be fun to try to mod the mini-t to use a 27 turn (or lower turn) motor. we have access to litterally millions of dollars worth of 5-axis CNC machines and can make just about anything out of metal. might be a fun weekend project. even if the performance of the car sucked, it would still be fun to do it.:D

[tarvymoto]

I have run at least a dozen times with my 6cell batt pack and have had no problems what so ever. *nocks on wood*

[FLYBOY7]

the guys i have seen burn up the stock motors on 6 cells seem to burn'em up pretty fast.... these were guys running 2/3 A cells... i've seen guys running 7 AA or AAA's and haven't burnt up their stockers...

and as for the plastic quality of Losi... i remember back in the day when it was great stuff... LOL... anyone who says it's good today probably has never run the older plastic that was like a tank... it wasn't too flexible, nor too brittle... today's Losi RTR plastic is very durable, but flexes a ton... their modern stiffezell (sp?) and graphite stuff are not nearly as durable as it used to be...

[jkerr0043]

I ran JRXT's and Pro SE's, LXT's. You're right, those car's were fairly bullet proof but I was also a kid running offroad and my driving skill at the time was less than great so I stil broke my share of parts. But it was a different material. It was more flexible than the current griphite impregnated parts. but probably less than the plastic on the current RTR's.

[MikeMayberry]

I just wanted to post the proper technique for adapting the stock servo saver to the Hitec HS-55 servo. Since the stock servo (almost a direct copy of the HS-55) has a hexigon output shaft, all that is needed is to trim the output shaft on the 55 to the same shape. I tried using the output gear from the losi servo which fit but it's slightly smaller so there was too much backlash.

Here's the pic:

[MikeMayberry]

Installed

[electric130]

Originally posted by FLYBOY7
the guys i have seen burn up the stock motors on 6 cells seem to burn'em up pretty fast.... these were guys running 2/3 A cells... i've seen guys running 7 AA or AAA's and haven't burnt up their stockers... i'm running a 6-cell 2/3A pack and have had no problems yet.....yet?

[tarvymoto]

I'm running a 2/3 A pack as well. Charging at 1.2 amps. With bearings and the stock motor it's very quik.

[electric130]

i charge at .5A i heard it wasn't good to charge above that for these small NiMH cells.

[Temjin006]

Which mod motor is more powerful, the trinity monster housepower or the team orion baja?

what hop up are you guys running to make the mini t more durable?

[FLYBOY7]

yo electric.... i ditched my stock motor early on, so i didn't burn mine up, but at the track i race at, i have seen several... if yours has not burnt up yet, congrats, you got a good one... it seems a washer in the motor melts when you really put some juice to it...

mike mayberry going big with the mini-t... any ROAR rules yet on this new class?? (i bet it's gonna be a while... LOL)

you guys may have already seen this... but at my LHS tonight, they had several new parts in stock for the mini-t from BRP... www.brpracing.com ...

first off, BRP has a replacement set of tie rods, ball cups, and ball studs... they are much beefier looking than stock, and the price was about 34 bucks... that would be a great hop-up as the stock parts are junk, and the Losi hop-up parts aren't out yet...

secondly, and my favorate, BRP has a wideeee front bumper.... 6 bucks, bolts on great, and will pretty much keep you from breaking any A-arms because it's over 4" wide....

lastly.... i picked up the BRP soft springs for mini-t (4 bucks).... they work fine on the losi oil shocks, although, they are a tad bit shorter and stiffer...

and Temjin.... i don't know anyone who has been able to buy a Baja yet... it's supposed to be based on the speed 300... if that is true, it should be faster than the trinity...

oh and electric... on those 2/3 A cells... it's ok to charge them at around 1 amp.... i charge mine at 1.5... the new trinity "matched" 2/3 A's are charged at 3 amps i beleive, which is pretty high...

[MikeMayberry]

[MikeMayberry]

Hi guys,

I thought you might want to check out this set up.

Razor Car Motor www.razormotors.com
Castle Creations Mamba www.castlecreations.com
Hitec 03MK IPD receiver www.hitecrcd.com
Multiplex LiBatt 3 cell 700mah LiPo batteries www.multiplexusa.com

Run time is about 10 minutes and it accelerates like a 10 tun mod... No Lie!!! The All Up Weight is 12oz. I just need to get the chassis up to the task of handling all the Horse Power!!!

Mike

[Wallis Racing]

hey all.

well my stock servo went, so a modded my chassis a bit and droped in the HS81MG, and grabed a 'real' reciever and a GM V4R esc while i was at it. and im also running a custom 6cell pack, the Speed 300 and the losi bearing kit. but, like always, its just not fast enough. so before i go all out for the brushless option, i thought i would try 8 cells... cause right now, my Mini-T is nearly only 1/2 as fast as my micro with the same setup.

so i just want to know what configuration i need to fit 8 cells in my mini-t... and im also thinking i might have a little trouble, because of the room i have lost by putting the 81mg in... but anyways, can someone tell me the battery configuration for an 8 cell pack. thanks.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[electric130]

Originally posted by FLYBOY7
yo electric.... i ditched my stock motor early on, so i didn't burn mine up, but at the track i race at, i have seen several... if yours has not burnt up yet, congrats, you got a good one... it seems a washer in the motor melts when you really put some juice to it...

yeah, i'm not sure if i'm glad that mine hasn't burnt up yet or not. sure would be a good reason to get a good, fast motor.:D it almost seems like people's stock motors burn up right away, or they last for awhile.

Originally posted by FLYBOY7
oh and electric... on those 2/3 A cells... it's ok to charge them at around 1 amp.... i charge mine at 1.5... the new trinity "matched" 2/3 A's are charged at 3 amps i beleive, which is pretty high... well cool!!! i've been charging mine at .4-.5A and it takes forever! i'll turn the charger up some. thanks for the info. now, if i could only remember who the moron was that told me that in the first place.....:D j/k

[FLYBOY7]

yo electric.... the person may not have been a moron, they were just probably wanting you to be as safe as possible... but even charging at 1 amp is pretty safe... but man, it must have taken hours to peak a pack at .5 amps... LOL...

Wallis.... i'm running an 8 cell pack in mine... which fits perfectly all cells flat in the stock battery location (all cells are 2/3 A)... but i'm also running an Hs-55.... so my servo isn't sticking back into the battery compartment... you're probably gonna have to have a cell sticking up on each side of your pack if your running the 81....

let me see if this works to show u my batt config for 8 cells...

front of Mini-T
llll
llll
rear of Mini-T

Mike.... have you exploded the stock diff on that 11 volt BL monster yet?

[MikeMayberry]

Once you guys go to Lipo batteries you will never go back. I've experimented with a few configurations so far. Bone stock electronics with 2 cell and 3 cell Lipo. The ESC had no trouble handling it and with the 3 cell it was ballistic. I had to ditch the stock radio gear and stuck the 55 in for steering and then used the Hitec EZX-R ($40) ESC and 03MM ($35) RX with the Multiplex 280BB motor which is the same as the one Trinity is now selling. The problem with the 280BB motor is the output shaft is slightly smaller so I had a hard time finding a pinion to work. All I could find was an Orion 14tooth which was a liitle too big for the 3 cell. But it did work good with the 2 cell.

I haven't played with it long enough with the brushless set up to break it yet but since it's pumping out around 80-90 watts I'm sure I will!

The batteries I'm using are pre-production samples for Multiplex that will be available in another couple of months. There are other good packs available now too. Thunder Power, Kokam, E-tec. Just make sure you get the right charger for them and keep an eye on them when charging.

I'll keep you posted on how the truck holds up to the power.

Mike Mayberry
Hitec/Multiplex USA

[electric130]

Originally posted by MikeMayberry
The batteries I'm using are pre-production samples for Multiplex that will be available in another couple of months. There are other good packs available now too. Thunder Power, Kokam, E-tec. Just make sure you get the right charger for them and keep an eye on them when charging. i have heard that there are some LiPo's that have built in protection circuits to prevent them from running down to low and getting overcharged. it was another hobbist at my LHS, so i don't know how reliable the info is. anyone hear of this? supposedly it keeps the packs from exploding.

[MikeMayberry]

Most of the current BEC cut offs for the surface use ESC's are too high for lipo's so you have to stop running when you notice the battery start to dump to keep from going below 3V per cell but I am not aware of a devise yet to do what you say. The Castle creations Mamba will have an auto sensing BEC and will detect Lipo's too. This is similar to what is used for the aircraft. Typically this will only hurt the battery and not cause a fire. The fires come from overcharging, dead shorts, or internal damage. Many of the fires I have heard of were from airplanes that crashed and damaged the pack. If you are using one one cell in parallel the chances of overcharging and causing a fire is slim, it's only when you have multiple cells in parrallel that a cell can be out of ballance and over charge within the pack.

FYI: I have a ton of experience with brushless motors and Lipo batteries for aircraft. In fact that combo has revolutionized electric flight. One of the most popular segments uses the same motor and battery combo I am using in the Mini T and the planes have 2-1 thrust to weight ratio, weigh about 12oz, and have 30 minutes of run time.

I ran at the track today and was not really able to put the power down but it was impressive. I had 15 minutes of run time on the low bite track. I think I'm going to try a 2 cell 1500mah and gear the motor up. This should double run time and still provide plenty of power. I'll let you guys know how it works.

Mike

[Raydee]

Guys I am running a speed 300 and 6 Kan 1050 cells in my Mini T. What is the best gearing combo that won't destroy my motor?

[FLYBOY7]

speed 300's seem to run a lot cooler in Mini-T's than they did in Micro RS-4's... the stock 14 pinion will work great off 6 cells, and you'll have good speed...

FYI.... last night at the races, one of the guys showed up with a Graupner 480 7.2v... this is a motor with exposed brushes like a normal 540 motor... it also has a normal sized output shaft, so regular sized pinions will fit.... anywhos.... he was running 6 cells, a 21 tooth pinion, and the stock rubber tires... last night, i was running the Orion Big Block, 16 pinion, 8 cells and foam tires that were cut down nearly to the rim... we were both exactly the same speed down the main straight away.... i would say we were both slightly faster than a stock motored touring sedan... and we were definately the two fastest guys in mod mini-T last night...

lastly, most of the guys now have their Losi oil shocks now.... and they are all leaking like Crazy.... LOL...

[FLYBOY7]

Mayberry- please, Please try to get the powers that be working on a servo that is hs-55 sized, that is metal geared... i'm on my third hs-55 now, after blowing out another one last night... whoever can get a metal geared servo out first that fits in the stock location will sell a zillion of them... LOL... (i'm sure you already know that... LOL)

[Combatcm]

I had to post this picture, its mine from the URC forums. The steering isn't done yet and its just a dry fit. Looks good huh?

[dub-c]

I just ordered a Baja motor and I'm wondering if I'll need to buy a new pinion to work with the Baja. Does anyone know? I know the stock pinion, if it fits, probably won't be the best setup but I was just wondering if the stock one worked on the Baja. Thanks.

[MikeMayberry]

I'm going to try our new HS-56HB http://www.hitecrcd.com/Servos/hs56.htm It uses our new Karbonite gears which are four times stronger than nylon. The problem is it uses a standard size output shaft.

What are you guys using with the 81's, a solid horn? Or are you getting the servo saver to fit somehow?

I dropped down to a 2 cell lipo and geared the Razor motor up to 14t. That is a better combo and is much more drivable. It now feels like a XXXT with a 10turn instead of a 6 turn when I was using 3 cells and a 10tooth pinion! :)

Mike.

[hyperstang]

This my newest Mini T.

This is just a rolling chassis right now. It is getting ready for the Lehner/Mamba brushless combo coming in sometime next week. currently has Crazy Nut racing rims and street meats all around. Bought the BRP tie rod set and Losi shocks for this bad boy also. Just picked up my 81MG servo and its ready to go when the brushless comes in.

Race on...

[hyperstang]

This is my race Mini T.

I did post this bad boy in one of the earlier forums. But with new editions. I currently run a speed 300, HS81MG steering servo with HS Servo horn, Futaba ESC, Novak XXL. Just got the Losi Shocks for this bad boy using 70wt oil all around. I use the stock ribbed tires for the front and changed the rears to the mini mashers. Great drift action when running on asphalt and for some reason doesn't push harder than running all street meats on your T. And the power behind this little bad boy is a li polymer batter 2 cell 7.4. weighs less than the 2/3rd's packs and pushes out way more power.

Race on..

[hyperstang]

I know, wrong forum..

But here is my Hawaiian Built TLT 1

Ready to crawl all over the island...

[Jeepcrawler11]

Hey Combatcm keep us posted on your project. It looks really cool.

[spenzalii]

I just picked up my mini0t shocks. what weight oil are you guys using? I picked up some 30 weight, but the suspension seemed softer than with the stock setup! Don't know how it will react on the dirt yet (too cold and icy outside) but in the house, it didn't seem to rebound much

[Casper]

Losi recommends 20wt all the way around for the "stock" setup. A lot of guys are getting the stiffer springs though and running them also. I ran 20wt in my shocks at the local track and the truck seemed to soak up the bumps really well. Sooooo much better with the oil shocks!

[tarvymoto]

I would like to see a "sprint car" body and roll cage set for the mini. I think it would be super fun to have a bunch of mini's gear for torque on a little dirt oval....al la World of Outlaw style

[nascarscott]

i just got my mini t and does anybody knowwhat turn the stock motor is i went to my locoal hibby store andt hey had a 45turn hpi motor is this any better or should i go with the speed 300 or big block??????please help iam a newbie with this truck.
:cool:

[AreCee]

Well I just swapped out the stock electronics so I can use my Futaba 3PK. I thought fitting a new servo would be the hard part but it turned out to be simple. I'm using a Futaba S3107 Micro servo, it fits right in without cutting anything except grindin down the two holes for the stock servo mounts. I trimmed the output shaft to a hexagon to fit the servo saver and it worked like a charm. Only thing I had to do was servo tape the servo to the chassis (the servo mounts moved the servo saver too far forward). Next I installed a Novak XXtra in 75MHz and a Team Orion Flash speed control. The motor is a Big Block 300 and I'm using the Racers Edge motor plate. This motor doesn't heat up like the stock one or the Trinity Monster and is faster.

Now the Mini-T has great range, complete adjustability and runs great. The strange thing is that the stock ESC feels like it had a little more punch but after the initial acceleration you can't tell. It will still wheelie on carpet from a dead stop and traction roll in a turn. Just waiting for the shocks and I'm all set.

[slaf]

Any comment about the new Mini-T shocks ??? I heard they were leaking.....I guess it's all about who build them :)

[FLYBOY7]

nascar... you do not want the HPI mod motor... the stock mini-t motor is 35 turns and has a ton more torque than that little HPI will...

Tarvy.... Bud's makes a 1/18th that is all about that kind of thing.. it's very crude compared to the mini-t, but it's fast... and there are sprint car bodies for it you might be able to adapt to the mini-t...

at the track last weekend, 6 guys had losi oil shocks, all six guys had at least one leaking.... 2 of mine leak... although i didn't tighten down the cartridge very hard in fear of stripping it and not being able to get a replace for weeks (or longer).... LOL.... the shocks work awesome though... i don't mind "topping" them off every weekend as long as they work great, and they do...

[FLYBOY7]

AreCee- i've been waiting for someone to try the 3107... good to hear it will mount up without having to grind on the chassis... can you post a pic of it installed so i can see how you did it?? i've gone through several HS-55's now, and i'm Reallllyyy looking for a servo that will hold up better, and still fit in the original servo area, even if it costs 45 bucks.. i know the 3107 isn't metal gear, but maybe it'll hold up better that what i've been using...

[hyperstang]

My shocks for my Losi did leak at first. I added the losi oil, and it is to thin. Way to thin. I added another shim (which comes in the plastic bag), so you need to put 2 on the shocks. I use 70wt associated oil all around. Perfect combo....no leak and great absorbtion for the jumps. No more scratched up screw heads now.

After running hard on the clod track on Saturday, with all the jumps, little leakage in the fronts but just tighted the head....actually the bottom of the shock and all is good. Spacers is a must for the shocks.

Race on.....

[hyperstang]

For my race mini, I fitted in the 81MG. Some say the 85MG is a perfect fit, but I still think you might need to modify the chassis a little.

Seen some 51's break in the first turn with the throttle being on....

Stripped gears and in a crash that servo is stripped.....

"MG" is the way to go...

Race on....

[AreCee]

Originally posted by FLYBOY7
AreCee- i've been waiting for someone to try the 3107... good to hear it will mount up without having to grind on the chassis... can you post a pic of it installed so i can see how you did it?? i've gone through several HS-55's now, and i'm Reallllyyy looking for a servo that will hold up better, and still fit in the original servo area, even if it costs 45 bucks.. i know the 3107 isn't metal gear, but maybe it'll hold up better that what i've been using... OK but I didn't take any photos of how I cut down the output shaft to match the servo saver.

Note that I didn't use the stock servo mounts, they pushed the servo too far forward and the servo saver would hit the steering linkages. I servo taped it in where the stock servo sat. No cutting but I had to grind the rims of the servo mount holes.

[AreCee]

To reshape the Futaba's output shaft I carefully measured each shaft. The was more than enough material on the Futaba to remove.

Next I found the center point by hooking up everything and turning it on, mark the center point, it will be one of your cutting marks. Take a Sharpie and smear it on the servo saver where the servo's shaft goes in. Press the saver down on the output shaft and the black ink will give you an outline to trim away the material. Carefully using an Xacto knife I sliced down the shaft to make it hexagonal. Test fit it and remove a little more material until it goes on snugly. Use the stock screw to secure the servo saver and you're done.

Now the servo saver will take the big hits and you won't strip gears anymore. I think you can do the same with the Hitec but the Futaba only cost $23 vs. $19 for the Hitec and I like Futaba better (Sorry Mike Mayberry but I do like Hitec digitals in the HS5925/5945 series).

[Temjin006]

Can anyone tell me what size bearings I need for the Mini-T. I am trying to match the bearings at my LHS so I dont have to order them. My LHS doesnt have the Losi set yet.

About the servo, if I use the HS-81MG, what servo saver should i use? I see some people online wit this big red one.

[Casper]

You need 8 - 4X8 bearings. The tranny already has bearings so you just need these for the wheels.

[hyperstang]

I am currently running my Mini T 81MG servo with the servo horm (white one) that was provided by HiTec. No problems what so ever, and I really, really race this bad boy. I have had head on collisions with walls and the parking barriers that my turn buckles came off, bent shocks...but the servo and servo horn was perfectly fine.

[FLYBOY7]

thanks for the pic.... now we know for sure that the 3107 futaba does fit in there nicely... i need to pick one of those up...

hyper... i would love to run an 81 or 85 mg.... they are rock solid servos that work great and wouldn't require a servo saver because of their strength in such a small vehicle... although i run a 225mg in my micro right now, i've used an 81mg and it was fine... but to run one of those in a mini-t, you have to grind out part of the chassis, which i don't dig for a couple reasons.... one, i run 8 cells, which fit perfect with a 55 or 3107, but would not fit in a flat pack with an 81 or 85... and two, i've already seen enough broken mini-t chassis's, i don't want to lose any strength... i'm waiting for Mayberry to make me an Alpha tester on a hs-55 mg.... LOL

[hyperstang]

Actually,
All I did was grind away the wall the seperates the back of the servo that leads into where the batteies go. But yeah, I know where your coming from. Don't want to make the chassis to fragile. But its a pretty tough chassis. I was going to put in a HS 55, but to many people here stripping the darn gears. I run a polymer pack which is flat and no problem.

The servo is actually pretty up close to the steering assembly. Plenty of room in there for 8 cells....I think????

For me 7.4V is good enough...Still waiting on my brushless combo from BPP.

Race on..

[AreCee]

I ran a Hitec 225 in my micro also until the gears stripped, so I replaced them with metal gears and never had a problem since and I've raced that little guy pretty hard.

The stock Mini-T servo saver is huge! That's why I had to set back the Futaba servo. I just feel a bit more reassured using a saver with a resin geared servo. I was thinking about the 85MG but I didn't care to cut away any of the chassis (however, it seems that the battery pack is slowly chipping away small pieces). The S3107 seems like it would hold up well without the saver but at the track I race at I'm sure it would be toast within minutes. There are a lot of doubles, a triple, two tabletops and a massive elevation change with an off camber turn. Yes, it's a track geared to mod electric and nitro but hey, if you can get the Mini going it's fun and I've managed to clear the doubles most of the time.

Once I get the oil shocks I'll be able to carry more speed around the track to clear more jumps. The track gets real choppy and the stock shocks give the Mini a very bouncy ride which scrubs off speed.

[FLYBOY7]

Hyper.... every person i've seen running an 81 or 85 has cut out all the plastic that seperates the servo area from the battery area... if i could do an 81 without cutting out that entire piece, i'ld definately do it, and sounds like that's what you did.... did you also have to grind the plastic on the sides of the servo? and did you have to cut the servo ears off your 81??

AreCee (RC).... the stock saver is big, and weak... LOL... i added a thich washer to the spring of the saver to make it firmer, which it did, but i've also been wiping out a lot of servos... after i tore up my last one, i removed the washer for a lighter servo saver, i'll see if my servo lives any longer now...

[hyperstang]

FLYBOY,
The entire front part I grinded down to fit the 81 MG servo. I took down the wall and a little of the corners that lead into the battery area. Also shaved down a little of the rear posts also. But once it was in there, PERFECT STEERING!!!!!

I even grinded down the side walls of the battery area to make room for the li polymer battery pack I am using. But on the IPD website, there is a mini t with the 81MG servo nicely positioned in there. I am trying to see how it was done, so when I work on my brushless Mini T, I don' t go DREMEL HAPPY ON THAT ON ONE.

RACE ON....

[AreCee]

FLYBOY - the servo saver does seem weak but it really does the job well. My truck handles turns much better than the stock servo and doesn't push at higher speed.

I just installed the Losi shocks and they make a HUGE difference. After some experimentation I settled on 25wt in the rear with the stock piston. The front was a little more work, I didn't like that it was over dampened using 20wt and the 3 hole piston so I drilled out the 3 holes with a 1/32" (0.8mm) drill and refilled it with 20wt. Now it rebounds nicely and dampens the wheels. Sweet. Building them is exactly the same as building any other Losi bottom cartridge shock and bleeds the same, used some green slime in the cartridge to lubricate the o-rings.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

Hey, i still only have the stock shocks but i went and bought the upgrade springs to help. I cant figure out how to take the old one soff and new ones on? any help?

[AreCee]

Originally posted by BlueBeast8-Port
Hey, i still only have the stock shocks but i went and bought the upgrade springs to help. I cant figure out how to take the old one soff and new ones on? any help? OOPS. You'll find that the new springs a somewhat larger in diameter than the stock ones and may not stay on the retainers. The other problem you'll have is that there won't be anything in the shock to dampen the wheel oscillations (no oil or anything).

If you still want to try them you'll need to remove the lower part of the shock by holding the shaft with a needle nose pliers while twisting off the end (counter clockwise to remove). Or look at the exploded diagram as to how the stock shocks are assembled. I took mine apart to fill them with grease until I got the replacement shocks, it's not a fun job to do.

GOOD LUCK!!

[cpittmx]

You do not have to have to take the end of the shaft off to replace the shock springs. just push the spring up some and then push the lower spring retainer up onto the shaft where you can pull it off, then the spring will come off.

[creep]

I think on the stock shocks the lower mount and spring retainer are all one piece.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by cpittmx
You do not have to have to take the end of the shaft off to replace the shock springs. just push the spring up some and then push the lower spring retainer up onto the shaft where you can pull it off, then the spring will come off. The lower spring retainer is molded as one piece on the eyelet. Like I said before, it's a lot of effort to fit the wrong size springs.

BTW, no leaks from the Losi shocks and they make the biggest difference in handling from stock. If anyone is thinking of any upgrades at all they should place the shocks as No 1 on the list before motors. Good shocks will let you get the most out of your motor.

[dub-c]

Originally posted by AreCee
BTW, no leaks from the Losi shocks and they make the biggest difference in handling from stock. If anyone is thinking of any upgrades at all they should place the shocks as No 1 on the list before motors. Good shocks will let you get the most out of your motor. [/B]

My shocks leak, but I think if I put some higher weight oil will help. I'm only using 20wt now, I will probably move up to ~40 or 50wt. I used all of the gasket things and they still leak. I think I need to shave one of the rod ends also because the front suspension seems to be limited.

[microrcdude]

try 27.5 by losi. Everyone seems to like it here.

[AreCee]

HeHe, :D heavier shock oil will still leak if the shock isn't assembled right. The only place you don't have any control of is the seals that the shaft goes through. If the seal is ripped it leaks.

[racerz3]

Airplane ESC's are far lighter and smaller than r/c car ESC's. They'll work for the mini-t but you will loose reverse.

[FLYBOY7]

i'm running 60 weight oil because i race on carpet... and mine still leak... Losi's party line about leakage is to run double shims on the cartridge and do Not over tighten.... i'm assuming i over tightened mine... but i only really cranked them down because they were leaking when i barely tightened them up so i wouldn't strip them... LOL...

[Raydee]

I like that excuse that Losi used to cover their shock problem. I have tried 2 gaskets with no luck. The only way to fix the shocks is to either use a few wraps of teflon tape or wait for Losi to fix the problem!

Sorry just venting a bit. I finally got my shocks to stop leaking and then i broke the bottom shock end and I am having a fun time finding a replacement part.

[AreCee]

Raydee - I think Stormer Racing has the shock plastic parts in stock.

I'm using 20wt in the front and 25 in the rear. I get a little weeping but nothing that I would call a leak. Very similar to the 1/10 scale but just a little oil weeping out. Oh well it's just something I'll learn to live with.

[jkerr0043]

I put 25 wt in mine and 2 wraps of teflon tape. So far so good.

[nascarscott]

QUESTION FOR EVERYBODY
I WAS AT A LOCAL HOBBY STORE AND WAS WANTING TO GET EITHER THE SPEED 300 MOTOR OR THE BIG BLOCK,WELL THEY WERE OUT OF BOTH....BUT GET THIS HE SAID HE WILL BE ORDERING A MOTOR THAT WILL DROP RIGHT IN THE MINI-T AND ITS THE SAME SIZE AS THE STOCK MOTOR ,HE SAID ITS MADE BY PEAK AND THEY CALL IT A PURE RACE MOTOR,AN THAT ITS ALOT FASTER THAN THE STOCK MOTOR AND ITS AS FAST AS THE BIG BLOCK OR SPEED 300.
ANYONE ELSE HEARD THIS????????????????
HE TOLD ME THEY WOULD HAVE THEM AT THE END OF THIS WEEK.

[Casper]

I recently bought the Orion version of this motor (the baja). It is a modified 280 size motor with bearing and replacable brushes! I recently raced my buddy with a speed 300. We have not had a lot of chance to play around with the two setups but he geared at 16/60 and I was at the stock 14/60 and although he was just a hair faster I was MUCH quicker off the line. I think if we get the two motors geared similar the baja will smoke the speed 300. These are sweet little motors! The other neat thing is that they look just like a small 540 motor with endbell with brushes so it is not only super fast but looks great too! I talked with an Orion rep about the baja modified motor and he said it is faster then the big block (which is a 300 motor) and they clocked there mini-t at 22 mph with a 7.2V battery. Not bad for a little truck! The other great thing is that it does bolt right in without modification!

[dub-c]

I got the baja and since my tamiya to hpi adapter seems to never come in I haven't been able to test it w/ the 7.2V pack.


Side Note:
If anyone gets the baja don't be as stupid as I was and try to use the stock pinion gear. I put the baja in w/ 4 alkalines and it made it less than 3 feet before it tore out the inside of the pinion. I've been looking everywhere on the web to find metal pinions but noone seems to have them in stock. Yes!! I get to wait even longer to see what this thing can do :mad:

[Casper]

I am using some plastic pinions I got from Ultimate hobbies. The bag comes with 2, 13-16 tooth pinions and was only $5.95. They are working for now. I am not sure how long they will last but so far so good. :D

[AreCee]

Originally posted by dub-c
I got the baja and since my tamiya to hpi adapter seems to never come in I haven't been able to test it w/ the 7.2V pack.


Side Note:
If anyone gets the baja don't be as stupid as I was and try to use the stock pinion gear. I put the baja in w/ 4 alkalines and it made it less than 3 feet before it tore out the inside of the pinion. I've been looking everywhere on the web to find metal pinions but noone seems to have them in stock. Yes!! I get to wait even longer to see what this thing can do :mad: Two things to remember when using the press on pinions: 1. The more times you take it off and put it back on the looser it will become. 2. If the slipper is locked and you floor or make sudden direction changes then you're more likely to spin the pinion and wear out the splines.

You should be able to find metal pinions from either HPI in 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13 teeth, Orion in 10, 12 or 14 teeth and Kyosho 1/8 motorcycle pinions in 10, 12 and 14 teeth. The Kyosho gears comes with the .035" allen wrench and so should the Orion. The HPI uses a 1.5mm allen but I found that they have clearence issues in the Mini.

[Kev71H]

Quick! Where do I get this motor??????


(I recently bought the Orion version of this motor (the baja). It is a modified 280 size motor with bearing and replacable brushes!)

Kevin H

[AreCee]

Originally posted by Casper
I am using some plastic pinions I got from Ultimate hobbies. The bag comes with 2, 13-16 tooth pinions and was only $5.95. They are working for now. I am not sure how long they will last but so far so good. :D That's odd because the Losi pinion set is three gears (12, 14 and 16) for $3.00 and the Orion is three delrin gears for $6.00.

Were the ones you bought white (Orion) or gray (Kyosho)?

[Casper]

Ultimate hobbies has them in stock I believe the price is $34.95

714-921-0424

They will ship anywhere in the US.

Stormer also has them in stock

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=ORN20911

[AreCee]

Originally posted by Kev71H
Quick! Where do I get this motor??????


(I recently bought the Orion version of this motor (the baja). It is a modified 280 size motor with bearing and replacable brushes!)

Kevin H Stormer Racing is showing those in stock and the Raider from Peak Performance.
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=ORN20911
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=PEK1406

[Kev71H]

what is Stormer racing?

[Casper]

Originally posted by AreCee
That's odd because the Losi pinion set is three gears (12, 14 and 16) for $3.00 and the Orion is three delrin gears for $6.00.

Were the ones you bought white (Orion) or gray (Kyosho)?

You get 2-13, 2-14, 2-15 and 2-16 tooth pinions for $5.95. It is really not a bad deal. That is all they have in stock right now though. The new motors are so popular they are selling out of everything. They cannot keep stuff in stock for these cars. As soon as it comes in the sell it! :) They had about 30 baja motors as of Sun though.

[AreCee]

That is a good deal. I thought you got only the 13 and 16 tooth pinion for $6. :o

[hyperstang]

What is the lowest size pinion that Losi sells???

[AreCee]

The Losi pinion set is 12, 14 and 16 tooth.
HPI goes down to 9T.

[Size 14]

new mini-t body in the works

http://s92909982.onlinehome.us/mini-baja.jpg

[slaf]

Will this make a good ESC for my Mini_t ?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBEF3&P=7

[creep]

I'm definately getting one of those bug bodies when they come out.

[jkerr0043]

I ran one of the Orion Flash ESC's in a Micro a while back. I didn't like that there was a delay on the throttle response. You'd hit the throttle and there was a noticable hesitation. So much so I would get nailed from behind on starts.

[slaf]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
I ran one of the Orion Flash ESC's in a Micro a while back. I did