XRAY M18 4WD shaft drive 1/18 micro car

[StevePond]

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/xray/M18_chassis_2.jpg

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/xray/M18_chassis_1.jpg

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/xray/M18_body_1_18scale.jpg


The new XRAY M18 is a unique 1/18 micro-sized, shaft-drive 4WD model racing car that is the epitome of a high-performance micro racing car. The M18 offers highest performance, responsive handling, and traditionally exceptional XRAY quality, engineering, and design. The superb craftsmanship and attention to detail are clearly evident everywhere on the M18... the high performance 4WD drive shaft drivetrain... the well thought out chassis layout... the fully-independent suspension... the smooth flowing design of every part.

Special Features
* 1/18th professional, high-performance 4WD shaft-drive micro car
* easy to assembly, fun to drive, thrilling to race
* racing characteristics of 1/10th touring cars
* ultra-low center of gravity
* maximum efficiency drivetrain includes high-speed ball-bearings
* ultra-smooth and efficient front/rear gear differentials
* fully-independent front/rear suspension with adjustable shock position
* 16 degreased and lightly oiled, high-speed ball bearings in the drivetrain for maximum efficiency and speed.
* coil-over shocks for precise chassis handling
* easily adjustable motor mount
* adjustable bodyposts
* chassis accommodates 5 or 6 batteries (2/3A cells)
* battery placement: 5 cells on left, motor on right
* battery placement: 3+3 saddlepacks, motor in center (optional)

*** Compatible with all HPI Micro RS4 wheels, tires, bodies, batteries, motors, all electronics and any standard accessories available in the market.

Part#38 0000

Street price: $99 for basic kit including tires, wheels and body.

[NewToNitro]

...wow :eek:

[Chris Pedersen]

That just made my Christmas list.

[KronicRacer]

thank gawd i put off gettin the hpi mirco rs4!!:eek: :eek: :eek:

[stefan]

Micro racing just got serious...!

[SteveK]

Hmm: Anybody wanna buy a slightly used Micro RS4.....

[mistercrash]

Cool looking little thing. But why are there slots for cells where the motor is going to be?

[poopie]

Front and rear are the same. That means you can mount another motor on that sucker to make it dual motors! There really isn't any purpose though. But it would still be cool.

[mistercrash]

Originally posted by mistercrash
Cool looking little thing. But why are there slots for cells where the motor is going to be?

Never mind... :rolleyes: I just read that there can be a center mounted motor as an option.

[Im2lazy]

HA! I was right all along. Ever since Xray has had those little teaser shots on their website, I've said that car would be a 1/18 scale micro! So long HPI, Xray has come to save the day!

On a side note, that 1/12 scale mini tourer really threw a couple people off and thinking that was Xray's secret project, but apparently not.

Mid-motor, saddle pack, graphite chassis power for me:D :cool: . Nice to see HPI bodies and tires can fit on this car... hopefully the car will be as robust, or even more robust than HPI's car... and more efficient too... at least it better be.

[Grizzbob]

Yup, I think it only raises 2 questions from me....1. When will ball diffs be available for it, & 2. How much will it cost?:D

[Pro3/nmt105]

What size motors will this thing be able to take and will it come with the graphite chassi? How would mount the motor in the mid position? could some one give me a photo shop drawing of where it would go. You might be able to run 8 cells with the motor in the mid position. I was thinking of getting a 540 hybrid micro but now Ill porbably get this just as long as I can find a way to achieve high speeds with it

[KronicRacer]

hopefully they can do an early release like hpi did with the r40, rather than having to wait till christmas like www.teamxray.com says:(

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Grizzbob
Yup, I think it only raises 2 questions from me....1. When will ball diffs be available for it, & 2. How much will it cost?:D

My guess..........$150-180 for the car. (no RTR equipment)

Ball diff, just the option, I am sure the OEM gear diff from X-ray are far more reliable then the HPI metal/pastic combo gear.

[Racer Rob]

Originally posted by stefan
Micro racing just got serious...!
Your not kidding there! :eek:

[NV529]

any word on what sized cells and motor that sweet thing is going to be powered by? I'm hoping 16D motor and 2/3 A's

[NV529]

I know this car is going to make every TC3 owner happy..

[Rookie Solara]

It already said is 2/3A batteries...........motor wise, Speed 300/Big block should be the option motor.....

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
My guess..........$150-180 for the car. (no RTR equipment)

Ball diff, just the option, I am sure the OEM gear diff from X-ray are far more reliable then the HPI metal/pastic combo gear.
For that price range I hope they include the graphite chassi.

[JKA]

Can I get a picture of that 20 dollar bill held up to the light? I need to verify its security tag (strip). ;)

No way a car that small is that functional... except Xray I suppose.

Avant-garde was not an overstatement.

[Lowrance]

Originally posted by Grizzbob
Yup, I think it only raises 2 questions from me....1. When will ball diffs be available for it, & 2. How much will it cost?:D
I was told at the Xray booth today that their looking at a $99 street price for the basic car....not sure on when the hop-up parts but they showed a couple different chassis...one was set up for a six cell saddle pack with the motor mounted above the driveshaft.BTW,the drivetrains on the display models were quite smooth and free.

[HaCo]

I wonder what wheelbase that car has? If that is a Proline Ferrari body F-360 Body it should be 150mm...


HaCo:D

[Racer Rob]

Those will sell like hot cakes if they can keep to the $99 basic kit price. I want to know when its supposed to be available.

[Racer Rob]

"XRAY unveils their new, highly-anticipated Secret Project to the eager RC world at the 2003 Chicago Hobby Show, the new XRAY M18.

The new XRAY M18 is a unique 1/18 micro-sized, shaft-drive 4WD model racing car that is the epitome of a high-performance micro racing car. The M18 offers highest performance, responsive handling, and traditionally exceptional XRAY quality, engineering, and design. The superb craftsmanship and attention to detail are clearly evident everywhere on the M18... the high performance 4WD drive shaft drivetrain... the well thought out chassis layout... the fully-independent suspension... the smooth flowing design of every part.

The new XRAY M18 is currently in pre-production, and should be available from your dealer by the Xmas 2003 season."

[JKA]

Originally posted by poopie
Front and rear are the same. That means you can mount another motor on that sucker to make it dual motors! There really isn't any purpose though. But it would still be cool.

Front and rear ARE the same! WOW! That means that the rear Toe is (can be) easily adjustable, and also that spare parts are easier to find/keep.

[StevePond]

Originally posted by Grizzbob
Yup, I think it only raises 2 questions from me....1. When will ball diffs be available for it, & 2. How much will it cost?:D

The ball diff and front one-way will be available at the same time as the car - about Christmas time. Ball diff is hard-coated Duraluminum with carbide balls and is fully adjustable. The price is updated in the description - $99 for the basic kit including body, wheels and tires.

[StevePond]

Oil shocks and optional springs will also be available.

[KronicRacer]

:eek: yea:D

[Sam Rothstein]

Yeah, But...

-100$ "basic"chassis
-Est. 50$ graphite slotted chassis
-Est. 30$ Ball diff with carbide balls
-Est. 30$ One-way
-130$ speed control
-130$ super fast reliable servo (not Hitec)
-50$ small receiver
-20$ foam tires
-20$ Good shocks that actualy work
--------------------------
560$ Stuff adds up!

This thing is going to be a money pit. :mad:

But I still might get one:D

[NitroGerbil]

Hey Sam you plan on putting in a 180 oz servo, seems like a little overkill. A top of the line esc for an 1/18 scale also seems a little far fetched.

[JKA]

Sammy my man, thats not really accurate.

I'll shave over $175 off of that price just by correcting your prices on the ESC and the Servo.

Novak SPY MICRO ESC - $55.00
HiTec SERVO-HS-81MG Micro; 42 oz/in at .09 sec = $28.00
(it may be HiTec, but this thing is a micro.. its not going to be too hard on the servo)

That puts the total at about $380 give or take.

Still not cheap... but this thing will be awesome I'm sure.

[spenzalii]

Oh man, can we say kick arse?! I am SOOOOO getting one before the year is out. So much for that Micro I was considering...

[Pro3/nmt105]

I wonder if I could find a way to fit a 540 in there, I was going to get a 540 micro prior to this coming out and Im not sure what do do now. I wanted the 540 micro to turn a few heads at the track i.e. coming in with the body on putting the thing on the track and easily passing a 1/10 on the straight going 40mph in like 2 seconds. I guess the xray isnt set up right for a 540 though, I could probably make a mount, but with the motor that way it would have horrible torque steer (ever hold a 540 in your hand and hit the throttle, you get a pretty big jolt just imagine what that could do to a 1/18th scale).

[PCC]

Why 540 when you can go for a 300-sized brushless?

My micro with an Orion BigBlock pushing six heavy AA cells is quicker than a TC3 with a race-prepped stock motor. A brushless will be even faster!

I guess it's time to sell the Micro...

[eman88]

thats awesome!+

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Originally posted by JKA
Sammy my man, thats not really accurate.

I'll shave over $175 off of that price just by correcting your prices on the ESC and the Servo.

Novak SPY MICRO ESC - $55.00
HiTec SERVO-HS-81MG Micro; 42 oz/in at .09 sec = $28.00
(it may be HiTec, but this thing is a micro.. its not going to be too hard on the servo)

That puts the total at about $380 give or take.

Still not cheap... but this thing will be awesome I'm sure.

It will be even less... if you already own a micro and like me plan to sell it before the M18 hits the shelves... less $55.00 and $28.00 and another $50.00 less if micro is sold... so new total is
$247 +/-

[HO502cid]

Check out these pics from the Chicago Hobby Show, there are a couple more angles of it that some of you guys might appreciate along with some pics of a car with full electronics.
http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3124

[Rookie Solara]

These are all the pictures I took about the MICRO, car is definitely IMPRESSED me, very very smooth (like TC3)however, like everyone concern, HOW can the new upgraded MICRO with the CENTER mounted motor can fit the

(1) 6 cells 2/3A batteries (seperate or in line)

(2) ESC and Reciever

(3) Speed 300 or Big Block motor

I would not sell the HPI yet, cause the layout of HPI can lay everything flat with quite a lot of space left.(I even have space forh my AMB transponder with 6 cells and Big Block.)

Low CG play a hugh roll on the micro (have you experienced TRACKION ROLL when you mount the ESC and receiver on the 2nd deck?)

Even with the optional motor mount, car still cannot mount the Big-block there (But I garantee someone will make a Big-Block conversion in no time).....and even with the BIG BLOCK on the top center, guees the what the HIGH CG will do to the micro on a carpet track?

I don't know, and I will wait and see...........beside, the SSG carbon chassis, front/rear ball diff and 1-way are all HIGH END quality, like like Serpent and X-ray products.

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/chs2003/x-ray18/IMG_0155.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/chs2003/x-ray18/IMG_0156.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/chs2003/x-ray18/IMG_0157.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/chs2003/x-ray18/IMG_0158.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/chs2003/x-ray18/IMG_0159.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/chs2003/x-ray18/IMG_0160.JPG

[Rookie Solara]

More pictures

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/chs2003/x-ray18/IMG_0161.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/chs2003/x-ray18/IMG_0162.JPG

http://users.rcn.com/arsa/chs2003/x-ray18/IMG_0163.JPG

[KronicRacer]

rookie, you DA MAN!!! Great pics:cool: :eek:

[Chris Pedersen]

There would be a way to mount a Big Block in the layed down position and still have six cells. I'll let you guys figure it out. ;)

Hint: You would need the SSG chassis with the 8 cell cutouts in it. ;)

[mpower7477]

Originally posted by PCC
Why 540 when you can go for a 300-sized brushless?

My micro with an Orion BigBlock pushing six heavy AA cells is quicker than a TC3 with a race-prepped stock motor. A brushless will be even faster!

I guess it's time to sell the Micro...
from what i've heard the advantage of 300 size brushless is NOT speed but reliability and more accelleration.

[jay272]

Wow!! I'm so glad that X-ray decided to add 2 more silly minis to their RC line-up, rather than a 1/10 scale shaft driven touring car. If they did make a REAL shaft drive, I would have to buy it. Thanks again Xray for saving me the $330 the 1/10 car would have likely cost.

Jay

[theskunk]

anyone know wheelbase? or am i missing things.... yet again...
-Rob

[mpower7477]

Originally posted by theskunk
anyone know wheelbase? or am i missing things.... yet again...
-Rob
probably close to the same as the micro rs4 (150 or 140)

[GA Maxx]

Originally posted by stefan
Micro racing just got serious...!
#
lol i tottally agree, i just got a micro too :(

[GA Maxx]

also how come they have 2 different chassis, how much is the SSG chassis?

[aspiringrcracer710]

With so many 1/18 chassis out, there could be a micro exhibition class at the Nats in the cards for the next two years (ROAR and NORRCA)

[ic0nn]

Will the wheelbase be adjustable on the M18?

[slotracer]

can i squeeze 6 AA cells between those battery posts???

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by ic0nn
Will the wheelbase be adjustable on the M18?
I believe that it is only 150MM

[Raydee]

http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray2.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray3.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray4.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray5.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray6.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray7.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray8.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray9.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray10.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray11.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray12.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray13.JPG

Universal Entertainment in Niagara Falls has them in stock!
716-282-4840

[theskunk]

i just soiled myself.... how much?
-Rob

[Raydee]

97.99 At Universal!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well... i will be getting mine on sunday:D but does anyone know when will the ssg chassis be available? along with the balldiff? and where can i get 2/3A size batteries? i was hoping to use sub-c cells...:confused:

[Raydee]

No word on the chassis or diff's even though we could really use them cause the stock chassis flexes like crazy and the stock diffs seem a bit weak. I don't see sub C's working nor do I really understand why anybody would want to run them in a micro car? You can get 2/3a cells for a great price Click Here (http://www.dynamoelectrics.com/Batteries.htm#) Make sure if you order to tell them that Ray Dash gave you the link. They are great guys to deal with!!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Dont they have a larger capacity besides 650mah???

[Raydee]

Yes they carry Kan 1050Mah, that's what most of the racers run.

[ronbeck]

Originally posted by Raydee
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray2.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray3.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray4.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray5.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray6.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray7.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray8.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray9.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray10.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray11.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray12.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/xray13.JPG

Universal Entertainment in Niagara Falls has them in stock!
716-282-4840

so have you painted and mounted the x-ray body yet? or are you running a body from your micro? love the pics and the reveiw you did.

[BrushlessHawaii]

A Couple of guy from My Hobby shop got those last week and where building them over the weekend - I think they may have already been racing each other. LOL I can't wait to find out what they think.

[HauntedMyst]

I just built mine and have been running it around the basement. It's an interesting ride. It's zippy but I can't compare it to an HPI. The upsides are the quality of the plastic, the instructions and ease of build. Even though the instructions called for trimming several pieces, I only had to trim one. Xray thought ahead and included a few extra parts you are likely to lose, which is nice. The car is well thought out for what it is. The down sides are it is not as solid as HPI with one of the pan car chassis, no stock motor, limited chassis space and at this point, no hop ups. I will be racing it tomorrow night and will post my results.

[Raydee]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
I just built mine and have been running it around the basement. It's an interesting ride. It's zippy but I can't compare it to an HPI.

What do you mean by you can't compare it??

Here is mine at our local races.
http://www.wnyrcinfo.com/raydee/1207modamain.wmv

[Tamiya4ever]

I was thinking of getting one, but wondering if you could raise the ride height to clear the little stones. :confused:

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by Raydee
What do you mean by you can't compare it??


What I meant was, I couldn't compare it since I don't have a stock HPI to run it against and have long forgotten what mine ran like.

I did get a chance to run it tonight and I have to say I was impressed. It was dialed with the box set up and even though I ran it with 5 cells and a mild mod (HPI's mod), it was fast and handled great. The down side to tonight was I tapped the wall a couple of times and the motor shifted. I was very careful not to strip any screws when I built it, but the stock motor mount just isn't up to the job.

[Jason C]

Interesting! How is the suspension? I have spent hours carefully tuning the rear suspension on my Micro RS4 and it still isn't exactly how I like it. I'm hoping the independent suspension would be much better. From the looks of it, the M18's shocks look to be little more than the front Micro shocks. I doubt oil-damped shocks would be an available hop-up in the future.

[Raydee]

Originally posted by Jason C
Interesting! How is the suspension? I have spent hours carefully tuning the rear suspension on my Micro RS4 and it still isn't exactly how I like it. I'm hoping the independent suspension would be much better. From the looks of it, the M18's shocks look to be little more than the front Micro shocks. I doubt oil-damped shocks would be an available hop-up in the future.

Yes the shocks look like the HPI front shocks but they are bigger in diameter and have more travel! For the most part the car with the stock chassis and suspension works great. Like Haunted said you really can't compare the HPI to the Xray. My fully hopped up and tuned HPI can't compete with my stock Xray!

[pchan]

Originally posted by Jason C
Interesting! How is the suspension? I have spent hours carefully tuning the rear suspension on my Micro RS4 and it still isn't exactly how I like it. I'm hoping the independent suspension would be much better. From the looks of it, the M18's shocks look to be little more than the front Micro shocks. I doubt oil-damped shocks would be an available hop-up in the future.

Xray mention on another forum that oil shock is an future option that we will see...:)

[xxxnt23]

is there any way to use a micro rs4 pack in it

[Raydee]

Originally posted by xxxnt23
is there any way to use a micro rs4 pack in it

Yep it fits fine!

[xsrwx]

I will be building my first rc car tomorrow....the Xray M18. Any tips for a noobie. Looking at the manual online it really dosen't say about greasing the diff's or anything. Any help?

Thanks

[Raydee]

Originally posted by xsrwx
I will be building my first rc car tomorrow....the Xray M18. Any tips for a noobie. Looking at the manual online it really dosen't say about greasing the diff's or anything. Any help?

Thanks

Build it right to the instructions, you can't go wrong.

[spenzalii]

I just got the last X18 from my hobby shop a few hours ago ($83!) They didn't have any electronics, though. Anybody knows when and how much X Ray's 'Power Pak' will run? While I plan on upping the motor soon, to get everything at once will be just fine for me. If they can bring it in at the same price as the car, it would be a steal!

Now to get that Mini-T...(Wednesday, every shop was out of stock!)

[Jason C]

I stopped by the LHS today and checked out the M18. After playing with the demo model on the counter, I was sold. The drivetrain is much smoother and freer than my Micro RS4 and the rear diff is incredibly smooth for a geared one. Looking the chassis over, it appears that plenty of adjustments will be available in the future for this car. Out of the box, the M18 ought to blow the Micro out of the water. Even my girlfriend thought it was cute and wanted one. So, I took an M18 home and will be giving my hopped-up Micro to my girlfriend (she likes graphite and aluminum and my Micro has plenty of it :p ).

[HauntedMyst]

The power pack will be around $100 and seems to be a good value for completing the kit since it comes with everything you need to finish it off. Also, the speedo is supposed to be very small, and with the limited room on the M18, you'll want a small speedo.

[spenzalii]

Just finished putting the car together. Very smooth drivetrain! Can't wait till the power pack comes out! I wonder if their esc will take 6 cells.

Anybody know if the Trinity mini mod motor will fit in there? Or when the motor mount and cf chasis will be out?

[Jason C]

I put the car together exactly as the instructions dictated, but one thing left me wondering - is grease truly not needed? As I started in the front and rear diffs, my first instinct was to grab a little tube of hobby grease, but nowhere did the instructions call for it. Anyone have any problems so far?

[xsrwx]

Originally posted by Jason C
I put the car together exactly as the instructions dictated, but one thing left me wondering - is grease truly not needed? As I started in the front and rear diffs, my first instinct was to grab a little tube of hobby grease, but nowhere did the instructions call for it. Anyone have any problems so far?

Jason, I thought the exact same thing. I went and bought some grease and used it on all the gears. I figured what could it possible hurt.

Steve

[Jason C]

Yeah, I ended up doing what you did, Steve, and very lightly lubed the gears with Associated Black Grease.



I've already encountered a problem - the front ring and pinion gears are skipping. I can hear a clicking noise when I accelerate hard, especially on turns. I took out the front diff and found some teeth on the ring gear to be slightly worn (the teeth tips slightly folded over from the skipping).
I'm running an Orion Elite Mod with 5 Ni-Cd cells and the 19t pinion.

[HauntedMyst]

My gut said to do the same thing but since the instructions didn't call for it, I assumed they knew what they were talking about and left it alone and it seems ok.

[ronbeck]

Originally posted by Jason C
Yeah, I ended up doing what you did, Steve, and very lightly lubed the gears with Associated Black Grease.



I've already encountered a problem - the front ring and pinion gears are skipping. I can hear a clicking noise when I accelerate hard, especially on turns. I took out the front diff and found some teeth on the ring gear to be slightly worn (the teeth tips slightly folded over from the skipping).
I'm running an Orion Elite Mod with 5 Ni-Cd cells and the 19t pinion.

the clicking in the front diff has been experianced by a few at one18th, they solved it by rebuilding the front diff like the rear. for some reason with the diff bilt for the adjustable setting causes the clicking? one member emailed x-ray and they said we never had this issue, and to re-due it becouse you did it wrong!:confused:

[xrayracer]

the clicking is from not properly finishing the flashing on the diff gears.

also I don't recommend using grease as the bottom of the case is open and dirt will just adhere to the gears.

The plastic has some oils as apart of the make up and works great dry. if you want, try some powdered graphite for lubrication.

[spenzalii]

Graphite Lube, just what I was thinking.

[Jason C]

I'm most certain the noise is not from flashing on the gears because I had carefully trimmed off all excess bits before building. However, I did rebuild the diff using the extra rear diff pin and that seems to have done the trick.

[Raydee]

I am not sure if you guys are interested ot not but a company in Germany has some pretty nice hop up parts for the M18 already including a aluminum speed 300 motor plate and carbon chassis. Here is the link.
http://rs4microshop.de/index.php

Here is a nice translater.
http://babelfish.altavista.com/

I ordered the motor plate's Saturday so I will let you guys know what I think.

[microrcdude]

that's a cool chassis. i wonder how much it is in the us

[theskunk]

okay, so im gonna get one of these, but here's the thing... for me to do this right, i wanna find the car, an XXL, a SPY, and an orion stock.... where do i find all this in one place? and where can i see xray's "power-pack" online? i cant find it anywhere!
thanks,
-Rob

[spenzalii]

The problem is, the Power Pak isn't out just yet. It should be released sometime after Christmas. My LHS has one on order for me right now.

As for the Novak stuff, you can try either Tower Hobbies or Stormer Hobbies. They usually have them in stock.

[theskunk]

okay, i want one, bad, i need to know who knows where the lowest price is, so far the low bidder is 94.00 plus 10.00 shipping. who got it cheaper/knows where i can find it cheaper?
thanks,
-Rob

[tarvymoto]

Does anyone have specs on the servo that comes in the powerpack? Also any of you Futaba guys know if the S3101 servo would fit?

[Raydee]

Yes the 3101 fits as well as the Hitec HS85MG

[Krautwagen]

I've had my M18 up and running for a few days. Using the same gear from my Micro RS4, the M18 is much faster and better handling.

For those thinking about the power pack: don't. The ESC in the power pack can only handle 180 size motors (stock size). Motors are dirt cheap, I've got a Team Orion Core Mod 45T, and banf-for buck, it's great. I'm also using a 6-cell KAN 1050 stick pack from unitedRC.com. $17+connector, awesome battery.

I built mine with the adjustable front diff, knowing about the clicking problems, and I'll soon be rebuilding it like the rear. X-Ray even includes all the necessary parts. I also used Associated Stealth Diff Lube in both diffs. It may not be neccessary, but I thought it to be good peace of mind. The housings are open, but they rest tightly against the chassis, so I'm not really worried about dirt/dust.

Someone posted about graound clearence. This thing has tons. You have to drop the front just a tiny bit so that the steering link doesn't rest and drag on the chassis.

Be carefull cutting and drilling the body. It is a Pro-Line body, and the holes are made for the Micro RS4, so make your own. My wheelbase was a bit shorter than the body, so I had to do some excessive trimming. If I did it over, I'd mark the wheel-wells and cut them to fit from the begining. The Ferrari body is also a bit wide, so put the wheels on the wider offset slots right away.

HTH

[spenzalii]

Only a stock motor, huh? well, in that case, I guess this would be the best motor to get then...

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/images/si2010.jpg

I put one in my Mini-T and was not dissapointed. This thing will run with some of the big blocks out there, with no conversion.

And looking on Horizon Hobby's site, I think there will be two versions of the Xray ESC: one for 280 motors and one for 300 motors...

[theskunk]

hey yall, the big brown sleigh came today!!! and in it, my M18 hehehe.... im dangerous now, moved both cars out of the garage to see what it will do.... and i cannot express with words how much hpi butt this thing is gonna kick. lol. anyways, i just thought i'd let yall know what im running here, i have the HS 81 MG servo, an orion elite coreless modified and a 6 cell pack that i havent built yet, still trying to figure out how to make my own stick pack with a crappy soldering iron... and im using an LRP super sport ESC until my Novak Spy gets here. receiver is a Futaba R-133 until i save up for a Novak XXL. so yeah, things are good, and yes, TONS of ground clearance. if anyone has some good carpet setup tips, let me know. thanks,
-Rob

[Krautwagen]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Only a stock motor, huh? well, in that case, I guess this would be the best motor to get then...

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/images/si2010.jpg

I put one in my Mini-T and was not dissapointed. This thing will run with some of the big blocks out there, with no conversion.

And looking on Horizon Hobby's site, I think there will be two versions of the Xray ESC: one for 280 motors and one for 300 motors...

I did not know Serpent was distributing ESC's for both 180's and 300's. The Power Pack that is available now only comes with an ESC that can handle 180 size motors. That doesn't mean that's the end of the line, I'll be running a 300 and 6 cells on a Spy (only rated for 280 and 6 cells).

That motor is only a 280. Plates are availble to mount a 300, soon plates will probably be avail to mount even bigger engines. I thought Mini-T's had kits to mount 400's? Anyway, no matter what motor you find, there is always someone faster...

[tarvymoto]

The "Power Pak" comes with the ESC for 180's but you can buy the ESC for 300's seperately. Ya just go to "X Shop" from Xray's web site and the can be found there.

[spenzalii]

HUzzah! my hobby shop called to tell me my power pack came in! I'll get it 2day and have it installed b4 the weekend is out (if all goes well)

[Rieley]

is the spec of the power pack good value?

[NothingButShaft]

You guys have me itchin' to get one!
I'm waiting for my LHS to get some in and it seems to be taking forever!

Anyone know if there are any shops near Lake Hopatcong, NJ that have them?

thanks

[spenzalii]

I just finished putting th epower pack in my car. Here's what I think:

First, the esc is a perfect fit, obviously. Screwing into the corner, it is very small and light. Unfortunately, it says it is only rated for the stock (180) motor: no mod micro motor (a la the TO elite), no big block, nada. To add to that, teh stock mount only fits the 180 motor. A 280 will need different mounting holes (or slot the ones there) to fit properly. a 300 motor will require additional work. But to run stock, the setup is perfect. The throttle is very smooth, and it seems to have the double tap reverse. I say seems to because I have fooled it plenty of times expecting brakes and getting reverse on occasion, and then other times getting full brake (which seems a bit weak, but then again I'm used to 1/10 braking)

Here's the specs on teh Xray servo:
0.12 sec/60 deg (6.0v)
32 oz. in Torque
Weight 22g
Not bad for a stock piece, and it has the metal gears. with the Xray servo horn, it's a perfect fit. It is sensetive, so watch how you adjust the trim. The 5 cell pack is, well, a 5 cell pack. only 900 mah, which bites, but in a stock motor, it seems more than enough. Overall, if you want stock fit and finish, or are just starting up in the 1/18 cars, its really hard to beat

[rydogg sc2]

Just got my m-18 last night and have a question about an ESC for it. I am looking to buy the Novak spy for it and am wondering how hard the stop when the brake is applied with this ESC? Will it almost lock up the tires or does it not stop very well? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[theskunk]

depends on about 50 things really, first, what motor, if you use a torque based motor, it will lock harder, it also depends primarily on how hard you hit the brakes with your finger, i mean, its fully proportional, so the lighter you hit it, the easier it will slow. also, what radio are you using? i use a computer radio, so i can tweak the brakes as light or as hard as i want. if you just use a standard radio, it all depends on your set up. it also can depend on what pinion you use... if you use a top speed one, it wont brake as hard, and if you use a smaller, accelerating one, it will brake harder just because more torque is going to the wheels. basically, if i were you, use a computer radio or one with epa on the throttle, that way you can set it up stock, and if you dont like the braking profile, you can turn it down to whatever you would like.

also, to the guys that race, what tires tend to hook up well on low pile carpet? i was thinking some orion mediums up front with softs in the rear with the spring settings in the "stiff" inner holes up front and the "soft" outers in the rear. im running a "6 cell stock" class, i know, ironic, but still, thats what im running. yall let me know!
thanks,
-Rob

[Jason C]

I like to use Orion Fresh Kicks hard foams in front and softs in rear. My M18 tends to oversteer so I have a stiff front and soft rear set-up.

[theskunk]

i just raced softs in the rear, mediums up front with a little traction compound on the back end, and i rocked.... i even had to run 5 cells with an orion elite so the micro rs4 guys could keep up!! it was awesome. anyone in the mountains of NC or southern VA that want to come race, PM me and ill get yall directions.
-Rob

[theskunk]

okay, for some reason, whenever i make a stick pack, the pack gets really hot, and i cant figure out why! anyone have any suggestions, or things i should look at?
thanks,
-rob

[Raydee]

Originally posted by theskunk
okay, for some reason, whenever i make a stick pack, the pack gets really hot, and i cant figure out why! anyone have any suggestions, or things i should look at?
thanks,
-rob

Are you leaving the iron on the batts to long? Also make sure that you aren't putting too much solder on the button part of the cell and letting some solder leak down onto the rest of the cell because it will short out. I have found that when making stick packs or end to end cells that less solder id better. I use a hammerhead soldering tip on a cheap Weller 40 watt soldering iron with a home made jig that holds the batts in place and I can rip cells together fast! I usually solder 6 cell packs in just a min or two!

[theskunk]

hey Ray, IM me at Robstopper when you get this... i wanna talk to you about this stick pack... i get it all the way together and then it just gets really really hot.... before that its fine though

i dont know whats goin on...
thanks,
-Rob

[Grifter]

I am liking this car more and more.

I love the Shaft Drive and Chassis layout. Do they sell a Graphite Chassis for it yet?

[spenzalii]

they will, but it's not out yet. I think Xray, Penguin and a few others have them in the works

[Raydee]

I am just wondering how many guys will be interested in a carbon fiber chassis with adjustable aluminum motor mount and carbon top brace for around $75. My buddy who I race with designed a peice of art that he is having cnc'ed as we speak. The chassis itself will hold 6 Kan cells in a stick pack like the ones Blind sells and packs will also be available at www.rccargods.com. THe motor mount is aluminum with a built in heatsink and will work with the speed 300 motor and the mamba brushless. I will have detailed pics tomorrow night. We have races with the prototype chassis and so far they are great. The Xray handles better with the chassis and yields faster lap times. Please email me if you are interested in a chassis combo and I will see how many we should make. More pics and info to come!

[Raydee]

Here are the pics! I got them a bit sooner than expected. Hopefully I will have mine this week and I will post pics of the whole setup.

http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/carbon1.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/carbon2.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/carbon3.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/carbon4.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/carbon5.JPG

[Grifter]

Very nice. This thread doesnt seem to be moving much lately, I guess we have to wait for more people to buy them.

[Raydee]

Yeah I agree. Our Micro season is coming to an end here in the next few weeks and then we have a short time before 8th scale buggy starts. I am not sure how most other tracks work or if they run all year round or not but I know that this chassis really made a difference in my driving! I have not traction rolled one time since I installed the chassis and my car feels really fast. The motor is staying much cooler with the finned motor mount and adjusting the mesh from the top of the car is nice too. I talked with my buddy today and he thinks that the chassis should be ready for sale by the end of the month. I know our season will be over but I am sure other guys will run it all year round.

[Grifter]

It's a great looking chassis. When is X-Ray releasing theirs?

[Raydee]

Should be by the end of the month as well.

[Grifter]

Cool.

[KronicRacer]

hey guys. this car moves like a snake! its awsome. whats the word on adjustable shocks are the any available for it?

so far what im running:
orion kicks foam
orion elite motor
nimh reciver pack (from my nitro 1/10ths) 1100mah
hitec 81 mg
novak spy esc
novak mercury reciever

bodies so far
360 modena
cobra r (gotta hate the hpi 140 mm wheelbase option)
corvette c5 r
lamborghini murcielago

[randy g]

can i use my hpi pinion gears on the m18

[Raydee]

Randy no they are too small.

[offroader]

just wondering if the m18 uses the same wheels as the hpi micro? What about bodies?

[Keemos]

Offroader - Yes... you can use the HPI Micro wheels on the M18. As for the body... they will work too as long it's the 150mm.

[offroader]

alright, thanks alot. I'm seriously considering replacing my hpi micro for the M18 :D

[Grizzbob]

That's uderstandable, & if you're racing them, then I'm surprised you haven't changed over already. I bought my M-18 at the beginning of Feb. & there is just NO comparison, in the 6-cell stock micro class at my local track the HPI doesn't even come CLOSE to how well that little XRay runs(& after making a few choice adjustments, like reducing the rear toe-in, it's even faster still). If you race, follow Nike's advice & Just Do It.....:D

[RAYMAN1OO7]

i just got an x-ray m18, got it assembles and painted, now i need electronics. in my shopping cart at towerhobbies i have:
HPI stock micro motor/ plug,
novak spy esc
hitec hs-85+s bb servo w/ z connector
hpi NiMH stick battery pack rx 6v 1200mah(good price, also, will these fit good? what charger do i need for this battery, or any other battery/charger suggestions that are cheap? i want an overnight wall charger if possible because of price)
and a airtronics blazer sport AM radio.
thanks for the help, ill try to get pics up soon of my f360.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

i changed my mind, im gonna get the x-ray power pack and the airtronics blazer sport AM radio, what charger can i use? the battery in the powerpack is the 5-cell 6V 1200mah one correct? thanks

[RAYMAN1OO7]

here ya go

[RAYMAN1OO7]

one more

[KronicRacer]

heres mine just got an ssg chassis from ipd race shop.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

i changed my mind again, im getting a novak spy, hitec hs-81mg servo, hpi 6v 5-cell stick pack for recievers, what charger works? and an hpi stock micro motor, will this fit the stock motor mount, will the pinions fit? and im getting deans micro plugs. thanks, i need to know what charger will work with this battery: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT2&P=7 thanks guys

[slotracer]

will a full size futaba servo fit in the xray???

[Decal Head]

Here's a couple pics of my new xray! Man, I love this thing!!! :D

http://www.decalhead.ca/xray_01.jpg

http://www.decalhead.ca/xray_02.jpg

[RAYMAN1OO7]

that spoiler looks good on there, i might put mine on, i like it in white also, nice and clean looking, white paint and white wheels looks good, just like on my full-size prelude

[KronicRacer]

will a full size futaba servo fit in the xray???

just get the hs-81mg its not that expensive of a servo. make sure its hs 81mg has metal internal servo gears. hs-81 is just plastic internal servo gears, believe me it strip on the first love tap with a barrier or wall. very important that its the metal mg version

[KronicRacer]

i changed my mind again, im getting a novak spy, hitec hs-81mg servo, hpi 6v 5-cell stick pack for recievers, what charger works? and an hpi stock micro motor, will this fit the stock motor mount, will the pinions fit? and im getting deans micro plugs. thanks, i need to know what charger will work with this battery: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT2&P=7 thanks guys


got to www.onlybatterypacks.com they got some great chargers there. they have one by hitec cg340 $44 and mrc superbrain959. $59 also in addition to all that they also have a connection for in the house if you dont want to run off of a gell cel or 12v car battery.(or its one of those rainy days). the hpi motor will fit but you would be better of with an orion elite motor (for starters).

[Tamiya4ever]

Do you guys run your M18 outside on the street? Just wondering how it handles on dusty asphalt. :rolleyes:

[KronicRacer]

i ran it on a basketball court a few weeks ago. it didnt get that dirty, light amount of dust. :)

[moep]

I just got my Xray M18 Kit for $89 at Ebay. I figured you can't really go wrong with a NIB Kit from Xray for that price.
Well, I just opened the parcel and was blown away. The quality of the packaging and manual alone is a class of it's own, almost too purdy to touch.
It even came with a geniue Xray screwdriver as a freebie. Way to go, Xray.
I've already got a full kit of Hopups (300 Upgrade Kit w/ Blue Carbon Chassis, adjustable Turnbuckles, Blue Front Bumper, Xray MG-Servo and the 300 Bigblock w/ an LRP Quantum Super Reverse) waiting for me at the Post Office, gotta pick that stuff up today and start to build that little bugger. I bet it's a pleassure to do so.

What are you using for batteries? I was thinking of using a set of two Lipos (2S), giving me 7.4V and of course the convinience of LiPos.
I think two Kokam 1500 mah cells miiight just fit in there, but I gotta go to my LHS to chec if they acutally do. If not, I'll just take a step down in capacity. No big deal. :)

[RAYMAN1OO7]

i have my m18 built and the 360 body painted. i have a novak spy esc and a hitec hs-81 mg servo. the other things i am going to order are the hpi mod 45t motor, futaba 3pm radio, hpi 1200 mah nimh battery, and the hobbico r/c multicharger($33), will this charger work for these batteries, is it a quality charger? its the best one i found at that price that will do what i want. thanks, i cant wait to get this thing running. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL331&P=ML

[moep]

Hi guys,

Did anyone of you experience problems with the rear diff yet?

I'm having a blast with my M18, tons of power, tons of runtime.

First of all, here's my setup:

Blue Supersize (Bigblock) Carbon Chassis + Aluminium Motor mounts
Quantum Super Reverse ESC
2s1p Kokam 1500HD LiPo Pack (7.4V, pretty much the same voltage as any 6cell NiMh Pack)
Xray 300-size Motor w/ 17tooth Pinion
Xray MG Servo
everything else is stock.

I had some trouble with the front diff slipping in the first place, but when I did the trick with the extra-shaft to build the front diff like the rear one, everything was fine. The car had way too much power on carpet, so I dialed in some traction control on my 3PK.
I drove it for 2 charges indoor on a huge (rather slippery) carpet. Mind you, one LiPo charge = 55 mins of runtime... weee!

However, I took the car out today for some driving on high-traction asphalt. Took the traction control out, since the tires had enough grip to accelerate w/o wheelspin on the asphalt.

Well, after 5 mins of driving the rear diff began to click and is now slipping/skipping like crazy... I'm basically driving with FWD only now. I didn't have time to take it apart yet, but I'm wondering if anyone had a similar problem?
The now that the front diff is just fine, the rear diff is giving me trouble.
And NO, I did not put the parts of the adjustable front diff into the rear one. Both are built with the solid steel-stick (in lack of a better word) in place. Very weird.

Other than that, this car is a BLAST to drive. I love it...

[KronicRacer]

i havent had any problem with my diffs yet... have any upgrades come out yet? and where did you get adjustable turnbuckles. :confused:

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

i have my m18 built and the 360 body painted. i have a novak spy esc and a hitec hs-81 mg servo. the other things i am going to order are the hpi mod 45t motor, futaba 3pm radio, hpi 1200 mah nimh battery, and the hobbico r/c multicharger($33), will this charger work for these batteries, is it a quality charger? its the best one i found at that price that will do what i want. thanks, i cant wait to get this thing running. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL331&P=ML

that one's pretty cool looking, but it only charges at .5 amps. Losi sells a mini-peak charger that goes at 1.2 amps or so, and costs around $17. I'd go with that if you're on a budget.

[hyperstang]

Well,
Here is my M18 Sierra Truck. Only mods are Silver graphite chassis and li Poly 7.4V battery. Also running Orion Stock motor. Will add a big block soon, but I want to race in the stock class for now...

Race on....

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v280/TritonDRIFT/m18.jpg


http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v280/TritonDRIFT/m183.jpg


http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v280/TritonDRIFT/m182.jpg

[KronicRacer]

sweet truck. :cool:

[RCNitroDude999]

so......anyone here ever though about putting a nitro engine into their m18?? Wheres the ed dude at, he knows what im talkin about!

[Windsorguy99]

I realise the reorganisation of the forums is a big job...just wanted to bring this to the top so you can notice and move it to Electric On-Road :D

[KronicRacer]

lol this is confusing to say the least offroad?!?

rcnd999
still havent found the nitro mini t conversion to use :mad: still looking

[Psychospaz]

im making a nitro conversion for my m18. its going to be just like the tc3 as far as how its set up. you can usually find the mini-t nitro conversion on ebay. good luck everyone, and ill post pics of the nitro m18 when its done.
-matt

[microrcdude]

what pitch are the gears?

[protech XT4]

Anyone has a mini XRay M18?

I think they use a strange wheel connection. (I normaly drive a 1/10 nitro onroad and 1/8 offroad.) There is an adapter with markings in where you put the outer rim over.
I had great difficulties to put the outer rims on but know i can't get them off again... How should i do it?
Do other mini cars (HPI,...) use the same methode?

[ducati777]

Yea the RS4 micro uses the same wheels, which is somewhat nice that they're interchangable... But as far as removing them, its a real pain. If the rim cracks, they pull off fairly easily, but with wheel intack, its really hard.

On one set of wheels I cut the "rim" looking part out, so I could press on the center while pulling on the outside to slide the outer wheel off. I've also seen a person use a small gear puller, which makes a lot of sense. I've also used a dremel, and yes it destroyed the tire and wheel.

[dhutch]

hi, im *might* be getting a Xray, and i was wondering what anyone think of the car

-also in i right in saying xray are base in the US, if so how good is the UK coverage?
-what are the problem with the xray (every car has its weakness)
-would you recomend the car to a 17 yo racing indoors (carpet)

thnks daniel

[minijosh]

They coverage of the M18 is good over here. I went to my lhs and they have the m18 just sitting on a stand right when you walk in so you get a eye full of beauty right from the start. I'm thinking of getting one. I just read a review and the car rocks but the only real problem was the lack of toe in on the rear. I also watched a video of the M18 racing a Nitro TC3. The M18 had a brushless system and only lost out to the tc3 due to the long straights but when the car had to slow down, the M18 flew past it and ruled the rest of the track. At first I didn't believe the video but it is real.

[microrcdude]

got a link to the vid?

[minijosh]

My friend Neo got me the clip and here it is for you viewing pleasure. I love seeing things beat down TC3's. That must be the Tamiya blood in me.
http://www.one18th.com/GetGallery3150.htm
Enjoy hehe.

[microrcdude]

LOL. I can beat a TC3 with my B4, if that counts LOL.

[minijosh]

No that's the same size racing against eachother. This goes to show that the M18 with a brushless is wicked fast.

[microrcdude]

Ya, a M18BL is a future project of mine, but thats befind all the other stuff.

[Milenko_76]

The M18 is just an awesome ride. I don't have a brushless in mine I have a big block. Even with that motor Im faster than the neighbors t4 with a 15 speed gem motor. I can hold my own with the T.C.'s also. I do get spanked by my neighbors TC3 because he's running a 9 turn motor in it.

[minijosh]

Now that's what I'm talking about.

[microrcdude]

The only way it seems to beat these BL M-18's is to have a low turn TC.

[ducati777]

Yup the M18 can be wicked fast. Lately I've noticed some clicking coming from the rear diff. Mind you this is a HIGH mileage car, so a certain amount of wear is expected. The nice part is the 18th scale parts are soooo cheap. If and when the rear diff gives it'll cost me all of about 15 bucks to replace. Or 20ish to get a ball setup.

[hyperstang]

Well...

Here is my Xray M18 with just a stock orion motor in it. This is fast with just the stock Orion in it. I was going to put my BL Lehner in it, but I can't race with it becuase its just to darn fast and uncontrollable...


Hop ups include aftermarket chassis and truck body. Run HPI softs all around on HPI rims..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/TritonDRIFT/m182.jpg

Here is the underside...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/TritonDRIFT/m18.jpg

[microrcdude]

Sweet! Gosh i think ill get the Mini-T First. Then BL M18

[minijosh]

can someone report this to a mod and move it to the electric on road forum?

[minijosh]

There is a better forum for the M18 in the electric off road forum. Can someone please get it over here?

[microrcdude]

Notify the admin. Click the notify and report where it needs to go.

[microrcdude]

I did.

[Aluma]

Well,
Here is my M18 Sierra Truck. Only mods are Silver graphite chassis and li Poly 7.4V battery. Also running Orion Stock motor. Will add a big block soon, but I want to race in the stock class for now...

Race on....

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v280/TritonDRIFT/m18.jpg


http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v280/TritonDRIFT/m183.jpg


http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v280/TritonDRIFT/m182.jpg
Still using scissors to cut out your bodies? Try the exacto method...or at least dremel the edges out. Looks nice though.

[Piggy89373]

Ok, I finally broke down and bought one last night. I've been hearing everyone rave about it, so I thought what the heck. The lhs races two classes, stock and mods. For mods, if you don't have BL, then go home. So, I picked up the power pack deciding if I race, I'd race stock class.

So, I finally get this thing together with the cf chassis. I go to put the wheels on, and notice it's quite difficult to get these on. I also notice looking at the tires mounted that the inside diameter of the rubber is larger than the outside. Is this normal, or did I get a bad set? I'm also have problems getting the right rear suspension to work right, it won't move as much as the left rear. I noticed the toe-in on the rear is quite drastic, is this normal? Lastly, I can't get the thing to track straight. If I center while driving using the radio, I notice the rear is tracking left of the center. Lastly, I started off with clicking in the front diff. I've tried my darndest to tighten it so it ran smooth, but it hasn't since the beginning. I'm not sure if I got a bad egg, or if my fat fingers screwed things up. I like it, but it's a PITA right now.

Lastly, I have an R390 body in-bound for it. The lhs is ordering one.

[microrcdude]

All i can say is, you gotta make sure u remove all the little ends that stick off from when they are on parts trees. They can really make a micro hard to drive.

And it does sound like you got a bad set of tires. I would call Xray, they should be able to send you a new set free of charge.

[ducati777]

Hmmm not sure on the tires, sounds weird. As for as the suspension, they're symmetrical, so just check for differences. Are you using down travel pegs?

There is a lot of rear toe in when stock. It makes the car easy to drive, but many people buy the optional rear links to reduce the toe in.

Do you have any detailed pictures of your car? Or have you compared it to other M18's at your track?

[microrcdude]

It doesnt sound like a tipical problem, and i think its his tires.

[ICEMAN32]

Notify the admin. Click the notify and report where it needs to go.
nice

[Piggy89373]

I took it back to the lhs the other day, and confused everyone there. I finally had a 12 year old look at it and told me to switch tires and adjust my droop screws on the front. Well, I'll be damned, but the little bugger was spot on. I put some new foams on, readjusted the droop screws, and it's tracking fairly well now. I'm still confused as to why the suspension isn't close to being even without the droop screws installed. Thanks for the responses, though.

[hyperstang]

That makes no sense at all...

Better forum for the M18 in the electric off road forum...this is an on road mini...

RACE ON!!!!

[dhutch]

it think there is some comfusion between the various X-ray cars.

[microrcdude]

Wow, when i was 12, people didnt listen to me, but looks like his point was heard! Glad ya got it running! How soon till we get pics?

[standard_63]

The tires have a thicker lip on the outside edge to fit the groove in the wheel, inside there is no groove so the inside diameter is larger. This is explained in the assembly instructions I'm pretty sure.

Did you use the spacers on the front shocks? On both sides? Are all the shocks in the same position/hole on each end? Mine seems to have more travel on one side, but I think in my case it's an illusion more than anything else.

[Piggy89373]

Standard, I had the same issue with shock travel. All my stuff is as per the instructions. The 12 yr old RC savant couldn't explain the difference in shock travel, but the car seems to run fine. Spacers, shocks settings, etc. are all mirrored exactly, there was just no explaination for the difference in shock travel. Just a fluke I think.

Since my visit, I put some pink foams on the rear, orange on the front, and it tracks straight and fast. As soon as I get the new body for it (and painted), I'll post pics here just to show it off more.

[rc addict]

how fast are we talking, in the mod class, with the brushless motors...mambas are allowed right?

[microrcdude]

Who are the foams by? They the new Micro Foams by HPI?

[bignasty]

any luck on a nitro m18, psychospaz????

[Piggy89373]

micro...yup, the one's by HPI.

rc, yup, mamba's are allowed in the mod class, in fact, if you're not running at least a mamba then you need not show up. A couple of the guys have M18's that were clocked around 50+. One guy has challenged any NTC3's to a drag, he's raced quite a few of them and is still undefeated.

I finally got the call from the lhs to pick up the new body. Danged if they didn't get me the wrong body. I had asked for the Nissan R390 LM GT1 and they got me a porsche :mad: But, I'll paint it anyway, then get what I want off of ebay.

[MTkid7]

I deff think im gonna jump on the ban waggon and buy one. I have a mini-t decked out for racing and come summer i wanna have it all offroad, so im deciding to buy m18. Heres the list of what im buying. Lemme know if its good, now i went for cheap, under 200$.

Ebay M18
------------------
m18----85
rc18t esc---36
Airtronics Blazer combo-10
GP 1100 batts 5&6--- 27
one18th.com Beast Piranha--20
HS-81---10
-----------------------
TOTAL 190.00

[microrcdude]

Whats the one18th piranah thing?

[Duster_360]

Stronger motor sold at the one18th.com online store....

[rc addict]

Stronger motor sold at the one18th.com online store....

I havent heard anything about the beast raptor, which is sold at 1/18th store online but i ordered a trinity monster termination motor, is that any good?? :confused:

[microrcdude]

Thats great. I use an HPI mod in mine, perfect for the local track, but some of us put in the 300's and races with the 1/10ths.

[rc addict]

sounds awesome, i got one problem tho: i was cruisin ebay for stuff i needed to get started with my m18 and i came across a sub micro servo which i thought would work in the m18, called the hs-55 featherlight servo. I think its actually too small, but i was wondering if it will work. i probably need the hs-81 mg anyway so the gears wont get stripped...:/

[rc addict]

... and i won the bid... :o

[nitrothugg]

wassup fellas,
just purchased a m18 from my lhs on an impulse. as a nitro guy i will be bothering you guys for tips. i got this so i can go race at a carpet track nearby. now i need a motor, batteries, servo and a esc.

[nitrothugg]

well i finished putting it together. the directions were cool and everything fit well. i've sifted through the thread on what electronics to get. my only question right now is, how do you take the wheels off? its such a tight fit. is there a trick?

[Piggy89373]

Nitro, the keys to getting the wheels off is a good grip and a creative vocabulary. Just be sure to pull evenly. If you're like me, you'll be cursing and praying that the drive train doesn't pull apart. However, the drivetrain will hold together, and eventually the wheels will give up their death grip and come off.

[ducati777]

You could also look into AVM products, they make a 1 piece wheel, and aluminum dogbones which are just beautiful.

I ended up cutting out the rim, and just unscrewing the wheel to get it off.

[nitrothugg]

well i tried pulling on the wheel a little to gauge how tough it will be to get off but i stopped because i feel like i'm going to break something. i hope those slicks are good all around tires :)

oh well

i have the novak spy coming and a hitec 81mg. i plan on getting a 5 cell from the lhs. i'm worried though that they will not have micro rs4 motors but mini-t size. could i shoe-horn one of those on with the stock motor mount just to get me by?

[standard_63]

You can use an automotive gear puller and a small jig to get the wheels off easily. There's a pictorial on one18th.com

[ducati777]

I've been using 300 size motors on the stock mount for a long time. Its a lil flexy but it works. And go 6 cell, why sell yourself short?

[rc addict]

will the hs-55 work??????????

[rc addict]

great i got another problem, my trinity monster termination motor came today along with the hs-55 in the mail. I was getting ready to mount the motor to the stock motor mount and pinion with the stock included motor mount screws.
problem 1 : the screwholes in the motor mount are a little too close together to fit both holes available on the motor
2: the stock screws are not thick enough to fit the threads on the trinity motor mount holes!!!! :mad: :mad: :confused:

should a get an aftermarket motor mount?? if so, a 300 size or 280 size? and also that alone wont solve my screw problem. anyone know where i can get hooked up with some good screws that fit??

xrays stock parts were fine up until now... ...its driving me off the walls :mad:

[nitrothugg]

i'm going to return the spy i ordered because i picked up a sport mamba from my lhs. cant wait to fire this thing up now!

[rc addict]

...a little help... :confused:

[Kaymin]

1 new pic is up of the m18t, and more will be comming Feb 10th! www.teamxray.com

[Riley]

what kind of speeds r being reached with a stock m18 and the xray power pack? i am thinking about buying one but i dont want something that is really really slow. i dont want to spend a lot of money ( around $250 or less) so any ideas would help. thanx

[rc addict]

what kind of speeds r being reached with a stock m18 and the xray power pack? i am thinking about buying one but i dont want something that is really really slow. i dont want to spend a lot of money ( around $250 or less) so any ideas would help. thanx

dude the xray power pack isnt gonna bring you above 19mph, you need to buy something like a trinity monster termination motor (34 dollars), novak spy esc(56 dollars), hs-81 mg servo (25$), micro receiver (50-80 dollars), and a good old 6-5 cell nimh battery pack (25-50 dollars)
xray kit:80$
total of above:220$
so pretty much your looking around 300 if you want your car to run decently. just scrounge up 50 bucks

[Riley]

is it possible for me to put the aluminum motor mount on the stock chassis? i want to get started for as cheap as possible but have something decently quick.

[RespirologyRC]

if you want to go cheap, you can buy a ($10) 370 Venom mini giant mod motor, and a decent battery pack, change the stock pinion to something higher and your in business:)

[ducati777]

@Respiro, yup yup. You need a 370 sized motor. A ton of the 35 dollar motors out there are the same thing with a sticker on it, don't believe the hype! Get the 10 dollar motor. They can be tough to find, but are on Towerhobbies for less than 7 bucks. Just look for Graupner motors in the 370 size, the 6 volt model is your buddy.

I've been running the stock motor mount with a 380 and its held up fine. Looks a bit hack since I had to cut up the mount quite a bit, but it works, and its cheap. I'd be all for an aluminum mount, but the LHS never stocks them.

If you really wanna go cheap, look into a micro ESC for airplanes, I spent 30 on mine I think... no reverse or brakes, but cheap power. Any micro ESC will do you well, and actually I miss reverse.

Look around for a 6-7 cell battery. 6 fits without issue, 7 might take some work. I wouldn't spend more than 25ish on a pack.

That HS81mg is an excellent servo. I've had it in 3 cars now, and its a beast. The M18 doesn't have a servo saver on it, well mine doesn't, and the servo takes everything I throw at it.

Car=80
Motor=15
Battery=25
ESC=30
Servo=30
That'll put you at 180ish...

[Riley]

well i think i am going to get the car now. thanx for the help but i still dont know if the aluminum mount will go on the stock chassis without being modified or very minimum modification. thanx

[ducati777]

Hehehe whoops, yea XRAY themselves offer a big block motor mount in aluminum that will fit with zero modifications.... There are a couple of other companies as well, like Penguin does carbon fiber chasis and motor mounts...

You can either get an aluminum mount that closely resembles the stock one, just drilled to fit bigger motors, or this one which is like a big heat sink. I like the idea of the heat sink, but I've seen the mount get trashed in a race when the sink got hit from a side shot.

[microrcdude]

Anyone notice the new X-ray off-roader comes with a 300?

[Riley]

thanx for the info ducati, that helps alot. i am definetly getting one now. thanx for all of ur help!

[Piggy89373]

Ok, new problem and looking for a remedy. I was goofing off at work running it on the painted garage floor (great drifting fun with foams). I've been running the stock motor with no problems up till now. Well, I bring it in because the batts were dieing and find out (the hard way) the motor is really hot. It sizzled spit! The esc and batts were only slightly warm to the touch. Needless to say, the motor now rattles. So, figuring the motor is trashed, I pull it out, open it up, and empty the small melted bits out of the can.

On to the questions. Has anyone else fried the stock motor? What's a good (and competetive) stock motor to use? I'm tempted to just bash with it now and get a brushless, but don't want to spend the money on it. With this in mind, what's a good motor to drop in this that won't require additional mounts? I'm not looking at spending over a hundred bucks on something I'll only run in the parking lot (yet). Any and all input is appreciated.

[ducati777]

Well Piggy, if you just want to bash, then I'd recommend getting a Graupner Speed 300, they're about 7 bucks on Tower. You should buy a big block motor mount, but you can make the stock one work like I did. Then you're only 7 bucks in the hole for a HUGE boost in performance.

However several 280 sized motors... err I think thats stock size... came out for the MRS4 and M18. There is a racing class at my LHS that runs "stock" motors. Everyone is using some sort of stock size, but higher performance motor. The motors seem to run about 25 bucks at the LHS.

Or just try and find a stock motor, it'll probably be only 10 bucks or so and you'll know what you're getting into. But if you just want to bash, I really recommend the 300 size motors.

I'ma try and make drift tires for my car tonight, there is an article on one18th to show how.

@Riley, you're welcome!

[Piggy89373]

Thanks for the info. How much of a difference in speed is there between the stock and the 300 motors? Are we talking ballistic? How much change in the run time is there? Will the stock esc be able to handle the 300's?

[ducati777]

Stock ESC? The M18 is a kit, you buy the ESC that meets your needs. And yes there is a huge difference between stock and 300 motors. Stock lets your poke about pretty good, but a 300 will have more power than you need on anything other than maybe a carpet track. Outdoors, in garages, in the kitchen, the 300 can spin all 4 with ease. Actually in the kitchen is so much fun because you can pull constant huge drifts with the power.

I tried to make the drift tires like I said above. I screwed it up. Instead of a heat gun, I used the kitchen stove top. It kinda worked but basically I melted the rim and turned it a funny size. Next set I think I'll bake the ABS in the over to get it soft evenly, and then freeze the rims at the same time. When I put the hot abs on the rim, it made the rim soft too... so I'm thinkin maybe even mount the inner rim on it as well....

If I find a good method I'll write it up for you guys.

[Piggy89373]

Well, I went looking for a new motor today. The class to race was stock class. Most of the guys were racing the x-ray motor that comes in the accessory pack...hence, the stock motor. Due to the lack of a selection, I looked into the 300. After figuring a new esc and a 300 motor, I may as well pay the 20 dollar difference and go brushless. So, I did. I soldered the deans plugs on, went to mounth the new bl motor and realized I need a new motor mount to make this happen. I might be able to tweak the stock mount, but with the torque on the bl, I don't think it'd last long.

For the record, I went with the mamba sport. According to the lhs guru, it's what he uses to keep up with (and occasionally beat) the NTC3 crowd. I figured that'd be good enough for me. Since I went brushless, I've also decided to run a 13 tooth pinion, just to make sure I get some extra speed. Eventually, I'll get some on board video. I just need the time to mount a small board cam on it. I'm planning on putting a board cam on my NTC as well as my GT. I'll have to use some software to reduce the vibration and get a steady picture. Hopefully, it'll work out, but won't find out till the weather warms up.

Ducatti, thanks for the help. Good luck with the drifting tires.

[Piggy89373]

Well, I had to get the aluminum mount, so there went another 20 bucks. After finally getting it all together today, I charged up the batts and headed for the street in front of the house. After watching this thing absolutely scream, all I can say is, "Holy butt nuggets Batman!!!" This thing absolutely rips!! I wasn't sure I was going to get my 100 bucks of fun out of it, but looking at the speed of it, you betcha' I will!

[rc addict]

I still need help with that stock motor mount and aftermarket motor (trinty monster termination). the screw holes dont line up right and the screws are too thin!! i went to a hardware store and picked up some thicker screws but they are 12mm long, so i need to cut them to the stock screw length, but in the mean time, do i have to drill new holes???!!!

[ducati777]

Okay, the stock mount will work, however its a squeeze. On mine I had to drill out the center hold, and the screw hole. The center hole was enlarged to the point that it cut into the outside screw hole. This means my motor is only head on by 1 screw, the one closest to the driveshaft. The rest of the mount is cut to accomadate the output shaft on the larger motor.

Yep 1 screw and it looks like heck, but its a free way to get a big motor in the car. Even on 1 screw the mount hasnt had any problems, and I definately have put down the miles with this car. If I can remember, I'll try and get a pic of what I mean, but chances are I'll get home and forget...

[RespirologyRC]

I like the stock motor, but then again I must have not liked it that much because I changed it out. I now have a Trinity Monster Micro Wild motor (300). It ran me $12.00 on ebay. If anyone is looking for a motor I would just keep an eye out for one of ebay. BUT if you really want some speed just look for the the Venom Fireball 370 mod motor. 10.00 and very fast!!!

[Dink McStink]

Just a heads up, but I believe the fireball is just a rebadged graupner 300 6v. It is seriously cheap almost anywhere, look in the airplane section of your lhs.

[ducati777]

Yup Speed 300's rock.

I just ran a pack outdoors, and I've got carpet tires from HPI on my car... gotta say they are not holding up well on pavement... figures I guess. Since I gave up racing, a set of ABS drifters, or maybe just hard compound tires are up next.

[performula]

Who has the best deal on the M18?

[Piggy89373]

Outside of Ebay, they'll usually retail for about 100 bucks without any electronics, Hobbyzone sells it for $104. I'd check your lhs, if it's about the same, you'll save a couple of dollars in shipping.

[justo316]

Outside of Ebay, they'll usually retail for about 100 bucks without any electronics, Hobbyzone sells it for $104. I'd check your lhs, if it's about the same, you'll save a couple of dollars in shipping.

I just ordered one from rccargods for $82 I think.

[Piggy89373]

performula, I think we just found your best deal. ;)

[performula]

89.99 :( still great though.

[justo316]

Yeah sorry, but it was $82 the other day. I guess the special just finished.

[nMotion96]

i found them at ultimate hobbies for $75 plus free shipping

[touringcar2004]

where can I get the vertical motor mount?

[justo316]

Does anyone have problems with their M18 spinning out all the time?

I got an M18 with Motek Panther Pro chassis, Beast Raptor motor and a 7cell blindbatts GP pack. It flies, but you really have to feather the throttle if you want to turn cos there's NO traction. I've got some hard Atomic springs on the front and stock softies on the rear shocks. I also moved the rear shocks to their outer positions.

[Piggy89373]

I had the same problems at first, then I switched to foams. The micro rs4 foams are a direct fit and should hook you up.

[justo316]

Not sure I want to go to foams. I only bash around and foams will get ripped to shreds pretty quickly I reckon.

[ducati777]

If you can't beat em, join em... I wrape my tires in electric tape and run on the smooth concrete in my garage. Its like driving on ice with super long and controlled slides. I get a kick out of sliding around like that, so the less traction the better for me.

[justo316]

I was into the whole drifting thing for a while, but now I'm after speeeeeeeeed :)

[Piggy89373]

I run mine indoors, at the office, on the painted garage floor, on the street and the foams are still holding up pretty well. Even since switching to BL, I still run on those surfaces.

It's a sacrifice you're going to have to decide on...traction or longevity.

[ducati777]

@Justo,

I know what you mean man, I've got the mamba with a 3 cell lipo on the way for my rc18T... probably stick to the garage drifter for the M18.

[justo316]

I just sold my Pro4 drifter....it was in brand spankin new condition too. It was heartbreaking to let it go but I needed the money.

The M18 is teaching me better throttle control....plus im ordering soft tyres so I'll see how that goes.

[Dink McStink]

Justo, the m18 really is a great handling little car, the switch from another 18th scale like a stock mrs4 is pretty staggering. I dropped a mamba 8000 with 9 gp1100's and it was about the most fun I have ever had with an rc. It was unraceable mind you, but gobs of fun nonetheless.

[ducati777]

Dang M18, its been around long enough that we don't have much to talk about. So lets see here.... anyone make their own chasis? Anyone wanna post pics of their car? We need some action up in here!

[Piggy89373]

Speaking of which, post pics of your drifter. :D

[ducati777]

heheh good call eh. Might as well lead by example. Well I store the rx out of it for the buggy, but I should be able to get some new ones. I'll post some older pics. Actually the only thing thats different is I taped the tires for drifting...

Edit:
DANG!!! I have a carbon fiber chasis now, and topdeck... guess things have changed. I'll try and get some new ones, here's the car a while ago.

http://www.freepixhosting.com/uploadedfiles/100_0802.jpg

[Piggy89373]

Why the large capacitor?

[ducati777]

I've always been a fan of capacitors. They allow the ESC to draw instant power when needed. Its funny when the battery is dead, because the car can't move under its own power, but if you let it sit for a couple seconds, the cap charges and then it'll jump forward if you punch it, but it can only go about 6 inches under capacitor only.

[Piggy89373]

Caps have many uses, I personally don't see their use as an instant boost. They're required to installed in parallel so they become semi-vampiric. But, that's your choice. Stillk, nice looking ride.

[ducati777]

required to installed in parallel so they become semi-vampiric. But, that's your choice. Stillk, nice looking ride.

Thanks, but I'm not sure what you mean by vampiric, like they suck up power on their own? Maybe, but its not enough to notice a difference, however they do give an increase to throttle response. Its subtle, but I can feel it.

And yea, they're installed paralelle, if they were in series, it would break the circuit as caps themselves are an open circuit. They're basically 2 plates that are held really close together, and a magnetic field is created when the plates are charged. if you release the charge, the magnetic field converts back into electricity...

You can build a wicked cap just by taking 2 rolls of aluminum foil, and a couple rolls of wax paper, and rolling them all up. Apply electricity to the 2 seperate rolls of foil, and it'll be a capacitor.

If you were to break open my cap, it'd look just like 2 pieces of foil rolled up.

[Piggy89373]

The means of building your own cap is almost the same as a Leiden Jar.

Actually, a cap doesn't block DC, instead, it charges. The time it takes to charge is based on the greek letter Tau, it takes 5 tau to charge and 5 tau to discharge. It's also a means of using DC voltage to make a saw tooth wave form.

Vampiric means it's drawing voltage from your primary battery source. But hey, if it works for you, it doesn't matter what anyone says. I can also see where it would possibly increase throttle response, however, I'm no where near a level where I'd notice.

And that concludes today's lesson on DC voltage. (and it keeps the thread going.)

[ducati777]

Hehehe well lets keep talkin. Another thing I like about the cap is it smooths the load to the battery.

ESC's work off pulse width modulation, just opening and closing a switch really fast, so the battery sees full load, and then no load, very very quickly. I have NO idea, this is pure opinion and speculation, that the cap would smooth the load on the battery, so instead of on and off, its more of a constant load.

In my own world, that seems better. But again, I have no proof, its just opinion.

Far as the vampires, you're totally right. Its on the main battery, you might also notice I use an Electrifly ESC made for airplanes. Its got no brakes, no reverse, no switch, just forward. I bought it because it was the cheapest ESC I could find at the time. I can live without brakes, but I miss reverse.

Another funny thing with that ESC, is that its made for an airplane. It has a safety feature that doesn't allow movement until you go full brake, to full throttle and hold it for a second or two. Then it makes a barely audible beep, and you're ready to go.

[Piggy89373]

From what I can tell and have read, ESC's don't work off a Pulse Width Modulation. Instead, the voltage delivered to the armature of the motor from the speed control looks similar to PWM. What happens with conventional speed controllers on brushed motors is it's pulsed using a saw tooth wave form, not a sinusoidal. The frequency of these pulses determines the amount of speed from the motor. Increase in frequency results in a "spike" of voltage to the motor.

With the older msc's, it worked off of a varistor principle. As the throttle reached it's apex, resistance will be at the minimum, allowing voltage and current to be at it's maximum.

Interesting choice for an ESC. Good way to keep the weight and size to a minimum.

[ducati777]

From what I can tell and have read, ESC's don't work off a Pulse Width Modulation. Instead, the voltage delivered to the armature of the motor from the speed control looks similar to PWM. What happens with conventional speed controllers on brushed motors is it's pulsed using a saw tooth wave form, not a sinusoidal. The frequency of these pulses determines the amount of speed from the motor. Increase in frequency results in a "spike" of voltage to the motor.

If its just a saw tooth wave form, frequency won't change power... PWM opens the circuit for a longer period of time on each pulse, longer opening times is how they increase speed... They could run on any frequency they want, and I bet it changes a lot from ESC to ESC... Higher frequency would give more opportunities to adjust speed, but not more speed.

Anyway sunusoidal waveform wouldn't make too much sense as we're dealing in DC here. If I remember right house current uses sinusoidal wave form, and dimmer switches for lamps and fans use PWM to dim your lights...

[Piggy89373]

Frequency will change power. If the bottom of the wave form is near or below 0V DC at every point voltage is maximum, power is maximum. The greater the frequency the greater the times when voltage is at a maximum, therefore, the faster it'll go. The greater the frequency, the greater the chances of adjusting speed. It kills two birds with one stone.

PWM works teh same you have described, but takes much more electronics to make it happen. You're looking at a DC to AC conversion with near instantaneous pulse rise and fall. It's much harder than you think.

House current does use a sinusoidal wave form. One of the reasons we use 3 phase power is because power is at a maximum much longer with three phases 60degrees out of phase with each other.

A household dimmer switch does not use PWM. PWM derives it's name from usage with digital circuitry that operate on digital pulses. A dimmer switch instead cuts off parts of the rise and fall of the sinusoidal AC wave. The quicker it cuts it off, the more the light is dimmed. Older rheostats used a varistor, or variable resistor. Many ceiling fans use the same type of trasistor device called a TRIAC.