Kyosho Kanai Edition III competition buggy [Archive] - Page 2

KanaiDude

04-20-2004, 08:47 AM

I would go for K2 for now and upgrade, I don't see much difference, some people are not liking the K3 much at all anyway. Theres not many upgrades really besides the chassis, and screws, which you can upgrade later, and the screws aren't that great anyway. I saw a fioroni option team chassis this weekend brand new, and after 2 qualifiers all of the finish had come off the bottom! If you want a milled chassis I would go with the k3 or a JT...

OldskoolGT

04-20-2004, 10:54 AM

Yeah, the differences between the K2 and 3 are relatively minor IMHO. To convert a K2 into a 3, you basically need to change the front shock tower, upper and lower hingepin holder blocks, rear shocks, and get an extra set of standard diff gears.

Fioroni does not hard anodize their chassis, so the finish is known to wear off very quickly. Milled chassis are overated IMHO because the weight savings is pretty minimal for the amount of money spent.

dgrobe2112

04-20-2004, 10:56 AM

also.. need to update the rear shocks.. k3 rears are longer than the k2..

KanaiDude

04-20-2004, 02:33 PM

Yea I didn't buy my milled chassis for the weight to much, but for the milling under the engine, I could have done it myself, but an os engine is one of the only engines that drops in without needing any milling under it, my p5 does not fit on the k2 without milling under it, or spacers on the top of the engine mount.

dgrobe2112

04-20-2004, 03:37 PM

wow.. i havent heard of having to mill the chassis to get the motor to fit.. i havent had to do that..

uDi_MP75

04-20-2004, 05:23 PM

me neither.. atm runs a P5 too, and he didn't say anything about having to mill his chassis.

KanaiDude

04-20-2004, 05:26 PM

hmmm maybe because it was a stock 7.5 chassis? I converted my 7.5 completely over to a k2, thats probablyl why...

Blaster

04-20-2004, 05:35 PM

KanaiDude - does your stock MP 7.5 chassis has the... hm... bent (?) (dunno the exact word) right in front of the flywheel cut? If not, that might be the difference.

KanaiDude

04-20-2004, 05:39 PM

I just pulled it out of the box and it does have a groove of sorts in front of the flywheel opening, so i dunno, it wouldnt fit on that chassis though i spent alot of time trying, so i ordered the JT, it would only fit with a few washers on top of the engine mounts.

dgrobe2112

04-20-2004, 05:41 PM

right.. kanai.. i got a stock 7.5, converted as well.. and still running the stock chassis.. there should be a indention in the chassis.. right where your box hits the flywheel.. like that is where the clutchbell is sposed to be.. and you gotta have that.. i know for a fact that the sports RTR chassis dont have that..

atm92484_3

04-20-2004, 10:47 PM

me neither.. atm runs a P5 too, and he didn't say anything about having to mill his chassis.

Ahhh the infamous P5 block problem. The Top P5 (what I have), Rex P5, and Novarossi P5 all have a different block. The Top P5 has a more 'compact' design on the bottom of the crankcase so it does not hit the chassis. The other two designs require some Dremeling or milling.

I don't think hes ever posted in the Kanai forums, but scrapz also runs Kanais and to get his Bergonzoni P5 to fit, I think he said that he just used a washer under the engine on each screw.

uaerc

04-23-2004, 05:52 PM

Hi Guys

Thanks for the advice and info guys but i have ordered my K3 today since i am getting it 4 less than 700$, which is almost the same as the K2, so i decided to go for it. Actually ordered two for me and a freind

Now I would like you guys to help me decide on the best engine for this car.
I would also appreciate your engines that u guys are using on it and how they perform and also which engine would be the ULTIMATE for this car.

Choices as per the availability.

1. Sirio Kanai Edition 42000 RPM (Heard that its not a good engine)
2. NovaRossi .21 P5 31000 RPM (heard it has a lot of probs)
3. OS .21 (new one released 4 buggy anyone heard about this?)
4. NovaRossi .27 39000 RPM . 11 ports 3.1 HP and 4.4 cc
Any feedback will be highly appreciated.

Regards
Aziz

KanaiDude

04-23-2004, 06:16 PM

P5 is probably the best and a few other guys here have one and seem to love it, I was the one that had a little problem with its idle, but was the wrong choice in glow plug. So I'll say P5 first, then Ws7 2 (alot of racers love this motor), then my third choice would be the older OS RZ vo1, not quite as much power but very reliable, the newer OS motor VZ-B is not as sound a mill from what I hear break down starts after a few gallons, this is just hearsay though. Keep in mind that .27 motors are not legal at most tracks and some people will be quick to call you on it.

atm92484_3

04-24-2004, 02:55 AM

Another thing to keep in mind when buying engines is the tracks you will be running on. Its pointless buying a 7+ port engine for a tight track where you do not have room for the engine to rev.

cpittmx

04-24-2004, 09:04 AM

How long has the Kanai 3 been out....I thought they had not been out long at all yet. When I got my X5 late last fall they were just starting to talk about it and I was thinking about waiting on the K3, boy am I glad I didn't because If I bought a K3 only for kyosho to announce a couple months later they were making a totally new car I would be very upset.

OldskoolGT

04-24-2004, 11:36 AM

How could the Sirio Kanai engine not be the ultimate engine for the K3? Its got "Kanai" in it's name, so its a perfect match. :)

I have heard only good things about that engine, lots of power everywhere. My only concern about it is that the head looks too small. Not good for a climate like Dubai.

The P5 has a powerband that is just about perfect for buggy racing. There were quite a few problems with the early ones though (bearing failure and short sleeve life). My main gripe about that engine is that parts are almost impossible to find for it.

Cpittmx,

The 7.5 originally debuted in 2000. Nobody here is expecting Kyosho to stick with the 7.5 forever. There's no actual confirmation when the new buggy comes out. And you want the best thing out now, the K3 is the best choice for many of us.

uaerc

04-24-2004, 02:53 PM

Hi KanaiDude

I just found out at my local dealer that he has Nova Rossi P5 T thats with a Turbo..... now my main concern is taht i want a really fast buggy (-+34000). Since the Sirio Kanai has 42000 Rpm on it.......its making me drool !! but the RB Concept seems to have a Bi-Turbo shaft on it..... wonder how fast this engine is ...... anyone know how much RPM it has ? i got a quote on one of the sites for around 309$. Not bad really.

A freind of mine had the Kanai on the Hyper 7 Pro, he seems to be loving it since, but i cant tell for sure as he not a frequent runner.. although i read something on one of the threads that the kanai engine looses power quite quickly. ?? is this hearsay or the truth.

Cheers
Aziz

fourboltmain

04-24-2004, 09:15 PM

I hope whomever is spreading the rumors about the Kanai engines keeps it up. I am on my second gallon and all is well. I read somewhere that the reason the heatsink on this engine is not as tall is to keep the overall CG lower. I love it, but don't tell anyone.

KanaiDude

04-25-2004, 08:26 AM

I would definitley stick with a non turbo motor, and Like old school and fourboltmain said, the kanai is well the kanai, the motor made for the fastest buggy on the market. I would either go with a green kanai motor, or a non turbo p5. Both of these motors are so fast, if your new you will have a hard time controlling them, expecially on the track, there are faster motors but unless you can drive with the pros there is no point in getting a turbo black case this that and the other thing.

dgrobe2112

04-26-2004, 08:45 AM

i would not reccommend a turbo motor.. simply because its not roar legal.. and they are so hard to tune right... the P5, and the WS7II motors are the 2 motors i see at all the big races.. more P5, simply cuz its not a ballistic as the WS7II.. i got a WS7II and love it.. will not go back.. i am thinkin of trying a C5 though

KanaiDude

04-26-2004, 10:42 AM

I thought turbo plugs were roar legal? I think .12 turbo plugs are illegal, but not .21 I could be wrong here...

dgrobe2112

04-26-2004, 10:45 AM

I think they are only legal in onroad racing.. turbo plugs are not legal in offroad racing.. i will go double check

dgrobe2112

04-26-2004, 10:55 AM

2004 ROAR RULES ADDITIONS, CLARIFICATIONS AND CORRECTIONS

RULE 6-8 HAS BEEN CHANGED:

Old wording: 6-8: Engines must be of single cylinder, two stroke, air cooled, glow plug design. Only one single throat carburetor is permitted. No supercharging or turbo charging is allowed. Only standard glow plugs with 1/4-32 thread, using a .25. gasket, will be allowed in .12 and .15 engines. Turbo style plugs are permitted only in .15 Open and .21 Open engines.

NEW WORDING 6-8: Engines must be of single cylinder, two stroke, air cooled, glow plug design. Only one single throat carburetor is permitted. No supercharging or turbo charging is allowed. Turbo style plugs are permitted in all nitro engines.

KanaiDude

04-26-2004, 12:21 PM

So .12 are allowed turbo plugs now cool! not that I will ever use a turbo plug ever again in any of my engines! so my next question is there a real .21 turbo motor that is illegal? such as the bi-turbo shaft uaerc was refering to, thanks for the research dgrobe...

uaerc

04-26-2004, 03:32 PM

Hi Guys

Thanks for the input. The problem with all these engines in Dubai is that they usually get really hot as we have a +40 C temps and high humidity. a freind of mine who uses .12 Rb concept engine on his v one r was not happy since it was really getting hot most of the time. I dunno how the .21 Ws72 would handle in our climate.

Plus anyone knows how much is the RPM on the WS72.

Kanaidude....

the Kanai engine has a RPM of 42000.
and the P5 has a RPM of 34500.
dont you think the Kanai engine is better ? or faster.

Regards
Aziz

KanaiDude

04-26-2004, 05:58 PM

offroadcrazy01

04-26-2004, 09:22 PM

Can some one please post a link where I can check out a p5 I hear so about them.

atm92484_3

04-26-2004, 10:50 PM

http://www.fusionmotorsports.com is currently the only U.S. distributor that brings in any P5s; Rex and Novarossi currently have no distributor that I know of. http://www.nitrohouse.com sells the P5 along with PDL Racing on Ebay and your LHS.

uaerc

04-27-2004, 10:12 AM

Uaerc - it seems like you are looking mostly at the rpm's which means you are after speed. Speed is good, but I wouldn't trust those numbers, the companies put these numbers out and some people look at those numbers when buying and some don't. The advice comming to you on these boards is mostly from racers, we base most of our advice on trial and error and what we have seen work at the track. I would not say the kanai is better stricktly on rpm rating, I bet the P5 has more low end (have you ever tried to clear a big triple with 5 feet to speed up and clear it?), and maybe the sirio has more top end for those huge straighaways, none the less most of us here own more then 1 motor to suite our needs on different tracks. These two motors are both POWERHOUSES if you are choosing between those two, flip a coin, or decide which one you like to look at more, and have fun...

Kanai Dude

You are right I am looking for speed as its the only thing that gives me the kicks...... well i am racing as well at the local tracks but with my V one RR this will be my ffirst 1/8th buggy.. its not that i am not familiar with speed. But I appreciate all the help of you guys. Thats the reason i wanted you guys to guide me since this is my first car, you guys are the experts. And choosing the motor is the quite difficult with so many choices in hand. the P5T and S421B are both avaialble here with teh LHS who deals with NOVA. but the Sirio over here is prices at a exorbent price. Most of the guys are talking about the WS72 which is a amazing motor but as ppl in Dubai t old me it might not handle the hot climate. So I guess will get both of these motors and ask one of the guys here to checkout the WS72 ;) and if does well i would get one too ;)

That would a good trial and error now wouldnt it ! lol

regards
Azz

KanaiDude

04-27-2004, 10:57 AM

Hi uaerc, what if you got an optional cooling head for the ws7, maybe an odonnel head for it? I would try and stay away from the P5T and just get a straight up P5, unless you have succesfully tuned a turbo plug before I don't recomend it. I had a turbo plug in my black head sirio and they are very hard to tune, it has to be almost right on the money, just a warning about turbo the turbo plugs...

MikeWz

04-29-2004, 12:16 PM

Okay guys, finally decided. In early June I'll be getting a Kanai III with an OS .21 RG and an MX-3 with Hitec 645 metal gear servo. Sound like a good set-up?
Now I'm looking for a good set-up as far as my track goes too. Never raced (although I have an MGT) 1/8th or even a buggy before in my life so I figure you guys will know better, and I'd like to pick up different springs/shock oil too before hand (If I need it). Apparantly the track I'm racing on is a mixture of packed clay with loam. Here are some pictures.
http://www.collectracing.com/racepark/racing/dirt%20track%201.jpg
http://www.collectracing.com/racepark/racing/dirt%20track%202.jpg
http://www.collectracing.com/racepark/racing/dirt%20track%203.jpg

It looks like a pretty tight track. Unforunately I won't be able to visit the track untill end of august as I'll be home on Long Island for the summer (the track is in NH by my college in Mass). Can you guys recommend any tires (preferable Panther because I can get 4 tires, foams and rims for $45), springs, shock oils, camber, castor etc settings for this type of track? Just looking for a basic set-up. Thanks guys

dgrobe2112

04-29-2004, 03:15 PM

judging on the pics.. here is where i would start at..

Shocks.. front 60 spaced so bones are above level.. rear 40 spaced so bones are level and use blue springs..

Diffs.. i would prolly go 5k in the front.. for better on power steering.. 7K in the center and 1k in the rear.. depending on the traction.. which it looks like a high bite track.. so that should work good

Toe out on the front like 1 degree.. for better turn into the corners.. use 20 degree hubs on the front for better exit speed

Rear use the 2.5 or 3 degree toe block..

cant thing of anything else.. other than with the RG.. you will have the bottom end grunt.. use a 13t clutchbell.. maybe a 14 so you can get good speed down the straight..

MikeWz

04-29-2004, 06:34 PM

Okay thanks. Why run such a high weight oil in the center diff and such a low weight oil in the rear diff? Won't the rear diff unload?
Also, what shocks positions and tires do you think I should use? Thanks for the help

KanaiDude

04-29-2004, 09:00 PM

5-7-1 is the standard in which people deviate slightly from depending on the track, the rear diff can get a little warm sometimes but is the best for your tail end, some people like 5-7-3 and little more power from the rear but these are usually more hard core racers. I run an tcd diff with red in the front and 6 in the center 2 in the rear is a little different but i'm gonna try that for a little while. Alot of people like the tcd diffs in front alot dont, a local guy here runs one in the front and one in the rear and he wins alot, very fast, got to experiment a little. If you havn't bought the motor yet I would consider something with a little more power, your dumping alot of money on that buggy spend another 100 and get a vz b or something if you like os.

MikeWz

04-29-2004, 10:46 PM

Where can I get a VZ-B for $200??? Tower has them for like $300 something. That's a bit more than I can really spend. I may do the RG for now and for next season get the Kanai Sirio. I dunno. How do the TCD diffs differ from the standard diffs?

What tires do you guys recommend running on a Packed clay/loam mix track? Thanks

uDi_MP75

04-29-2004, 10:59 PM

How about an RB S5 instead, mike?

The VZ-B's have some lifespan issues, so i'd shy away from them. The S5 should be right in your pricerange though. around 220 or so I think?

MikeWz

04-29-2004, 11:08 PM

$220 is a bit high for me. I can get this

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_115_168&products_id=2517

or this:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFAC3&P=7

out of the two which would you recommend?

uDi_MP75

04-29-2004, 11:58 PM

Get the 8P race. My friend has one and it seems quite nice, I haven't seen how much power it makes yet though as he hasn't finished break-in and has just been running around rich.

But I think it should go well, and seems nice for the price.

MikeWz

04-30-2004, 12:24 AM

Yeah, they claim 2.5HP out of it, which is rediculous, but it's more than the RG's claimed 1.9
Let me know how it seems to compare in Low-end grunt. I'll be running ofna's 063 pipe so that should give me low-end punch anyway :cool:

Still looking for tire recommendations. Looking at Panther's Komoto Dragons in SS compound. Again, I'm running on a packed clay/loam mixture surface and you can find pictures below. I've always run on fairly loose stuff with my xxx-nt so it's quite a bit different. Thanks

dgrobe2112

04-30-2004, 09:33 AM

For tires on a loamy.. tacky track.. i usually run the Kamoto 1's.. or steppins depending on the loam.. on the most recent hard packed track.. we ran the chameleons..

Mike i also dont like the Ofna motors... hard tuning issues.. i have had nothing but trouble with them.. my buddy had one.. i had one.. he got a RG.. and he is actually faster.. cuz he dont lose tune after 2 races when it gets dark..

Shock pistons in my setup are the 2x1.4mm pistons.. undrilled

MikeWz

04-30-2004, 09:53 AM

So you say go with the RG over the Ofna then? What else would you suggest that's under $200?
Does anybody else have an opinion on the Ofna model?

cpittmx

04-30-2004, 11:58 AM

cpittmx

04-30-2004, 12:01 PM

So you say go with the RG over the Ofna then? What else would you suggest that's under $200?
Does anybody else have an opinion on the Ofna model?

I know a couple guys that run the hyper 8 port..it seems to be a very potent motor and reliable as well. I would not be afraid to run it.

KanaiDude

04-30-2004, 12:37 PM

dgrobe2112

04-30-2004, 12:37 PM

im just speaking from experience.. i had troubles.. my buddy had troubles.. and a couple other guys have.. not sure if you will or not.. i have seen some of them run great.. the 8 port motor from ofna is a beast.. fast.. i just seen some tuning issues on these motors..

5-7-3, will not be less power at the rear wheel.. it will just slow down the diff action.. basically.. sorta lock the diff in the turns more than the 1k will you will get a little more push in turns than you would with 1k.. but as far as speed.. you will not lose any straightline speed..

KanaiDude

04-30-2004, 12:42 PM

tires of my choice for almost any track are proline crime fighters, i am gonna try some knuckles tomorrow though see how they go, there pretty nice tires. I had that same hyper 8 port race version, sucked some dirt in it, never ran right after that, dunno about ofna motors, I would be tempted to stick with the os rg, its got good bottom and is very reliable.

dgrobe2112

04-30-2004, 12:48 PM

hey cpittmx i'm pretty sure the heavier fluid in the rear allows the back end to gain more power, the lighter the fluid the more actual diff action you are getting and power may be going to only one wheel at that point so therefore you get a lack of overall power, this is very helpfull on big rounding straigtaways where you need to give it more gas but you can spin out much easier with the 3k in the rear because the diff isnt reacting as much, but you can give it more power when having 1k in the rear you don't have to be quite as gentel on the throttle, the diff heats up a little bit more with 1k as well, some people even just use grease of some sort, automotive. I would say there is a 1-2k difference in everyones setup and it just depends on what kind of driver you are, if you tend to spin out from a heavy trigger alot then something like 3-5-1 is good to try giving you alot of diff action but not as much power, if you have good control and you like a little more power then something like 5-7-1 is good, if you are very aggresive and have great control then 5-7-3 is good. I have been running 5k in the middle and i have lost a little bit of power as well, i am switching to 6k in the middle and 1k in the rear todayi run a tcd with red oil up front, try and post a pic of my shiny car before the dirt hits it tomorrow...

here is what i think.. if you run a higher diff fluid.. you get more forward bite from that diff.. that is why with 4wd buggies.. they have heavier in the front than the rear.. you get more pull out of the front tires.. and want the rears to follow.. same as a front wheel drive car.. when i am Auto crossing.. when i go into a turn.. i can get the front wheels pointing the direction i want to go.. then the rear follows.. depending on setup is weather i get over or understeer..

So.. if you go to a thicker oil in the rear.. the rear diff will lock up sooner.. and give power to the rear.. and you will develop a push on power.. i used to run 3-7-1 but had mad push to the wall on power out of a turn. , tried 2k in the rear.. but didnt like it.. went to 5-7-1, and love it.. i am much faster now.. can get on the power now.. and recently ran 10k in a highbight blue groove track.. and the car was hooked..

dgrobe2112

04-30-2004, 12:51 PM

tires.. i have never liked crime fighters.. i have used the chameleons instead of crimefighters.. what is cool about the chameleons.. you can turn them around.. and get more forward bite out of the tire.. my best tire.. which seems to work everywhere is the kamoto dragon1's.. kamoto dragon2 are my next choice.. then the chameleons..

MikeWz

04-30-2004, 02:01 PM

Okay, I'll be running the Komodo 1 in the SS compound.
I decided not to skimp on the engine. I'm going to get an RB S7 II. I can't afford the WS7 or I'd go for that.
Also, what diff fluid are you guys using? Not talking about weights here but brands. What do you guys prefer and why?

dgrobe2112

04-30-2004, 02:06 PM

i use the kyosho diff fluid.. or the ofna brand.. either work great.. i havnet used mugen oils yet.. i heard they were good.. but my hobby shop only carries kyosho and ofna at this time.. and is currently out of kyosho oils.. so i run the ofna oils..

MikeWz

04-30-2004, 03:12 PM

Does the kit come with any oils? If so what weight(s) does it come with?

OldskoolGT

04-30-2004, 03:29 PM

So you say go with the RG over the Ofna then? What else would you suggest that's under $200?
Does anybody else have an opinion on the Ofna model?

That OFNA Picco is an excellent engine for $140. I believe it will come with a different carb, the one shown is the older style. Picco engines are some of the longer lasting engines IMHO.

The RG is a good engine too, but you will need an aftermarket head for it because the stock one is too small.

dgrobe2112

04-30-2004, 04:40 PM

yes.. it comes with oils.. not sure what oils it comes with though

OldskoolGT

04-30-2004, 05:40 PM

The K3 comes with small bottles of #1000, #4000, and red TCD oil.

MikeWz

04-30-2004, 10:24 PM

Okay, thanks guys. Sorry about all the questions. It's my first buggy and I wanted to run with the best of 'em.

For the TCD, can I run standard Silicone Diff oil? I want to run 5K kyosho diff oil in the front

KanaiDude

04-30-2004, 10:31 PM

The tcd takes a special oil, it comes in a lighter black fluid and a heavier red fluid, you can get it at tower or most other places, most people run the red up front if using a tcd.

MikeWz

04-30-2004, 11:51 PM

Okay sweet deal. How do the TCD diffs differ from the standard diffs and what is the advantage? Thanks again for all your help guys

Madaz

05-01-2004, 05:48 PM

Mikewz, The benefits of a TCD over a normal diff is the open/normal diff will unload all of the power to the wheel with the least resistance, ie; if one wheel is in the air or on some loose sand all the torque will goto the wheel with the least resistance/traction. (which doesnt help acceleration) :mad:
A TCD/LSD will evenly distribute the torque between the two wheels for better accelleration and more predictable handling. the TCD has smaller metal gears inside it and some square metal washers that the gears sit inside.

Does anybody know how to dye the standard flouro green wheels and spoiler to say grey or black. I think i can boil them with some dye but i dont know what type? i need some advice from someone who has successfully done this?? :D :D

MikeWz

05-01-2004, 09:22 PM

Hey thanks. That'll do. Okay so far here's my set-up:
Kanai III
RB WS7 II
RB 063 Pipe
94358 Servo
MX-3 Radio

I'd like to get a better radio and that will likely happen next season as I don't have the money right now. Just one more quick question (for now anyway :rolleyes: ).
Would I be better off going with the 063 Pipe with the WS7 II or a 086 Pipe. Again, here are some pictures of the track. I have no experience with the WS7 so I don't know how much low-end grunt it has. If worst comes to worst I can get a 14t clutch bell or something.

http://www.collectracing.com/racepark/racing/dirt.htm

dgrobe2112

05-03-2004, 08:52 AM

I think the 063 is a good pipe to open up the bottom end of the WS7II.. i had a 086 in mine.. and then put the jammin pipe on it.. the jammin pipe is good from mid to top..

MikeWz

05-03-2004, 10:06 AM

So would you recommend the 063 or the 086. The reason I was thinking 063 is it appears that there's really no straight away to open it up on. If worst comes to worst I'll get a 14t clutchbell, but it's not looking like I'll have to worry about that.

dgrobe2112

05-03-2004, 11:06 AM

yeah.. i think the 063 will be better... better fuel milage.. better bottom end.. yeah.. get the 063.. cuz the WS7II had mad top end..

dollar

05-03-2004, 10:55 PM

KanaiDude

05-04-2004, 08:34 AM

Hi dollar! cool name... are you fishtailing into or out of the corners? what kind of diff setup are you running, weight of oil from front to rear. Are you using alot of spacers on your shocks? what shock oil are you running also, and what tires, we need more info on your current setup...

dgrobe2112

05-04-2004, 09:03 AM

here is my current setup on my K car..

diff.. 5-7-1
shocks.. 60-40
spacers.. front above level.. rear is level
20 degree hubs
round 75-25 brakes... 75 rear brake.. 25 front.. that is the brake bias.. more rear brake..
on a hard track.. almost blue groove.. i run chameleons.. crime fighters will work.. but they wear out too fast..

KanaiDude

05-05-2004, 01:48 PM

Have you guys been reading about the new mp777 over in the R&D thread? pretty interesting stuff...

dgrobe2112

05-05-2004, 02:15 PM

not in the RD thread.. but i been seeing pictures.. and all that.. where is the RD thread at?

MikeWz

05-05-2004, 03:36 PM

I've been pretty up on the info. I don't know how much I care for it. They plan on putting 4mm shock shafts in it. In order to do that need to make wider shock bodies, which means wider springs. It also means that the shaft is going to be displacing more shock fluid whichs means the shock will move up slower.
Other than that the differences seem pretty small. Slightly wider arms, moved the engine and center diff forward a bit. That's pretty much it

dgrobe2112

05-05-2004, 03:39 PM

they changed the arms as well.. updated some more stuff.. and with a kit like the 7.5, which is almost just right.. you really dotn want to change too much stuff.. upgrades.. and updates.. is all you really need.. i dotn knwo bout the shocks though.. 4mm shock shafts.. yeah.. that does seem pretty big.. i dont knw if they will need the bigger shock body and springs..

OldskoolGT

05-05-2004, 05:12 PM

I think they will need bigger shock bodies and springs to go with the 4mm shafts. In the current shock body, a 4 mm shaft would not leave much room for oil. :) I don't really understand the need for 4 mm shock shafts though, in 1 season of racing I only bent 1 shaft and have never seen a 3.5 mm Kyosho shock shaft break.

Go to neo-buggy.net to see some pictures of the 777.

dgrobe2112

05-05-2004, 05:24 PM

yeah your right.. they do need bigger shock bodies.. thats what kyosho is saying on ne0-buggy.net.. they are going to bigger shock bodies... 4mm is a little overkill in my opinion.. also since alot of guys are using the 3mm for wieght savings..

KanaiDude

05-05-2004, 05:54 PM

There is a hot news and stuff forum on the main page with rc vehicals

MikeWz

05-05-2004, 08:00 PM

masshybrid

05-05-2004, 09:21 PM

masshybrid

05-05-2004, 09:29 PM

Hi , First time near but looking for the racers to help on some problems im having with setup, i have a kanai 11 with a OS Vbz and it flies , having problems with traction in the corners , how can i get more traction on hard track and more steering.

THANKS!
I run on a track that has a hard surface and I find that TRC Cubics work best. They are made by GRP ( I think ) so you may be able find them under another name for a cheaper price.
If tires don't work, try lowering the front ( cvd's below level), softer springs, removing both sway bars.

OldskoolGT

05-05-2004, 10:51 PM

:eek: going down the 3mm to save weight. Honestly how much weight does that save? Can't be a real significant amount. I guess if you're really hardcore and in the worlds I could understand that, but com'on.

You guys know of any nice upgrades? Looking for some CF stuff, like a radio try or something. Dunno where to get 'em

A 3 mm shock shaft is around 25% lighter than a 3.5 mm shaft which is a pretty significant savings from a percentage standpoint. I'll take the extra weight for the durability though.

Go to ratzas.net and you can find some carbon fiber parts as well as some nice CNC aluminum stuff.

KanaiDude

05-06-2004, 08:42 AM

Ditto on the weight savings... I shop for most of my kanai stuff on ebay, seller there named holeshot sells CF stuff, search for kanai on there, don't get shock towers though. I go to meganitro.com for my fioroni stuff, very reasonable and good fast service.

dgrobe2112

05-06-2004, 08:53 AM

you can go to http://www.xtremercracing.com/Kyosho_Inferno_7_5.cfm

MikeWz

05-06-2004, 12:24 PM

dgrobe2112

05-06-2004, 12:30 PM

as tough as carbon fiber is.. is will still break.. i would rather have a bent shock tower.. and finish the race.. rather than a broke shocktower.. and out of the race..

KanaiDude

05-06-2004, 12:34 PM

ditto... I had some and my buggy took a good hit one time and damaged the top of one of the towers, it wasn't a big deal, but cosmetically looked like azz and worried me that it could break easy at some point.

MikeWz

05-06-2004, 02:06 PM

You think it'll still break if you epoxy around the edges? That pretty much prevents delamination in itself

dgrobe2112

05-06-2004, 02:09 PM

prevents delamination.. but carbon fiber dont bend.. it breaks.. where your aluminum shock towers.. will bend.. so.. exoxy the edges.. but they still ahve that break factor in them..

KanaiDude

05-06-2004, 02:18 PM

Even with epoxy on the edges it would have still damaged the tower and it wasn't that hard a hit, if something hits the top of one of the towers just right your going to have "delamination" no matter what.

Whos going racing this weekend, WooHoo no rain in the forecast WooHoo buggy is already cleaned and ready WooHoo! now I gotta fix the dumb threaded crank on my GT so I can bring a double smack down to the track this weekend! any of you guys get on trinity tech talk? is a fun place, most big tracks have a thread on there, good place to trash talk!

dgrobe2112

05-06-2004, 02:22 PM

we got all the trash talk at www.rcfiles.com for all of out local tracks.. but i am racing.. got 2 weeks till the next pro series race.. so i am running my backup motor at the regular club races.. if i changed from 30% to 20%.. do you know if i should add a head shim to the motor.. or not.. i got this ws7 from a buddy.. he ran 30% it has a odonnel head on it.. and i am having idle trouble.. not diein.. but erratic.. up down.. up.. that sorta deal.. like a lean idle.. but its not lean..

KanaiDude

05-06-2004, 05:29 PM

i think higher% nitro = more shims because of more combustion?

so if your switching to 20% you should remove one if the above mentioned is true

KanaiDude

05-06-2004, 05:44 PM

could be an air leak to I had a motor do that once, it was the carb, i was rebuilding and didn't tighten it down enough

dgrobe2112

05-06-2004, 05:59 PM

tighten down you mean on the side.. i sealed all that.. the back plate.. took the carb apart.. and everything seemed seemed tight.. and a good seal.. i got a new seal kit on order.. who knows.. wish i had another WS7II head with stock shims.. for this thing.. i would get rid of the Odonnel head in a heartbeat..

MikeWz

05-06-2004, 06:07 PM

Hah, we've got enough trash talk on this forum to cover 'em all. "My GT is better than you're NT"
"My inferno is better than your MBX-5" etc. Man some people on this forum are SO DUMB I can't handle it

7.5man

05-06-2004, 06:13 PM

dgrobe:

I have a WS7 with a stock head. I would be interested in a trade for the Odonnel head. If you are interested either PM or email me. BTW, I'm on the Grid too (oldandslow) and have done some good deals with the guys there.

:)

OldskoolGT

05-06-2004, 09:59 PM

dgrobe,

RB engines come shimmed fairly conservatively, so you usially don't need to add any shims if you run 30%. On my last WS7, I actually removed the thin shim and ran 30%. WS7s seem to be known for having an erratic idle. They seem to idle fast and then slow down after a few seconds.

uDi_MP75

05-07-2004, 07:12 AM

in 1 season of racing I only bent 1 shaft and have never seen a 3.5 mm Kyosho shock shaft break.

was the one you bent a 3.5??

I've killed quite a few 3mm's but was hoping these 3.5's would be a different story.

dgrobe2112

05-07-2004, 08:57 AM

i am running 3.5, and have yet to bend any of mine.. my buddy who bent all his 3.0's, put in 3.5's and hasnt bent any of them.. and he is tough on them..

As far as my motor goes.. i am thinkin that i just need 1 shim.. cuz the guy i bought the motor from.. is a good driver.. knows all about motors.. and prolly took the shim out.. and i need to put the shim back in.. i almost got it licked.. as far as the idle goes... i havnet started it since last weekend.. i will get out to the track early today.. and test and tune.. before the races..

if you have a WS7II head.. i would trade.. the regular WS7 head isnt that big..

MikeWz

05-07-2004, 09:38 AM

WS7s seem to be known for having an erratic idle. They seem to idle fast and then slow down after a few seconds.

How does the Sirio Kanai III compare to the WS7 II?

dgrobe2112

05-07-2004, 10:46 AM

Dont know bout the Sirio Kanai.. but the WS7II is bad ass.. so much power.. they say they are weak on the bottom.. but my WS7II with 1.1 springs.. kicks on the bottom..

OldskoolGT

05-07-2004, 11:09 AM

was the one you bent a 3.5??

Yes. I bent a rear 3.5 mm shaft a long time ago. The bend was so small that it was difficult to see the bend even with the shaft on a flat surface.

Little_Horn

05-07-2004, 11:21 AM

I have a somewhat technical question that you gurus might know the answer. ;)

Please se my post in the mp 7.5 sports section: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1427745#post1427745
thanks.

MikeWz

05-07-2004, 01:26 PM

Dont know bout the Sirio Kanai.. but the WS7II is bad ass.. so much power.. they say they are weak on the bottom.. but my WS7II with 1.1 springs.. kicks on the bottom..
Have you thought about going with one of those Fironi or Werks racing clutches? I'll probably get myself the works racing one. Sounds really easy to adjust and it's only like $90 so it's not too bad. The fironi ones are like $60. Only one question:
The werks clutches can come with shoes in three compounds; Carbon, Teflon and Red Rulon. What would be the differences there?

KanaiDude

05-07-2004, 07:24 PM

i finally got my fioroni clutch to work, was a shim problem, they have them over at meganitro.com for 50 great clutch, i wouldnt bother spending any more on one, another clutch i like is the kfactory one is like 45 and comes with a 13 tooth bell, is a carbon 3 shoe.

atm92484_3

05-07-2004, 08:56 PM

The bell and springs on the K-Factory are pretty crappy from my experience. The bell will last about a gallon or two before either the teeth wear out or the bell begins to stress fracture around the machined out vents. The springs on the other hand aren't junk but they are very soft for 1/8 buggies (probably along the lines of .9mm) and many will not find them usable.

MikeWz

05-07-2004, 11:34 PM

Anybody know what the difference between teflon, red rulon and carbon shoes is?

uDi_MP75

05-08-2004, 04:01 AM

red rulon sounds edible, you probably can't eat the other two though.
oh well, time to find myself some dinner, laters.

KanaiDude

05-08-2004, 08:01 PM

good to know atm... what clutch are you running? I ran my fioroni clutch today, problem with that one i can't get the gold shims right and can only use two springs instead of 3, the third will pop out at high rpm and lock the bell up.

atm92484_3

05-08-2004, 10:01 PM

I'm still using the Kyosho 3 shoe flywheel with 1.1 or 1.0 springs depending on track conditions, their composite shoes, and a Kyosho bell. The bells are freaking expensive at $31 a pop but they last forever.

uDi_MP75

05-08-2004, 11:17 PM

What springs are everyone using? I was going well with Ofna's 1.0's, but with the Kyosho 1.0's I found the part that sits on the clutch nut is a little short and one will usually pop out and screw with the action...

Going to try some Mugen 1.2's next if I can find some, hopefully they are ok.

MikeWz

05-08-2004, 11:20 PM

Okay, I'm putting my order in for the Kanai III, WS7 II, RB 063 pipe, MX-3 Radio, 358 Servo, #1000 oil and #7000 oil. Anything else I should put in for or anything I should know about when building the kit?

uDi_MP75

05-09-2004, 03:19 AM

I haven't built/bought a new mp7.5 kit in like 3 years now, but it does come with tyres and foams right? Just something to check there...

You'll also need some shock oil, unless Kyosho are starting to be generous and actually include stuff now..... I think oldskoolGT will know, he has a k3.

Anyways if not, I think 60wt front 40wt rear is a good start. I run 50wt all round because im poor.

Just take your time when your building the kit, patience is the key. And make sure you match each screw properly with the 1/1 drawing before you screw it in, because some screws are of really similar size and its easy to use the wrong one and screw up the part. Just general rules for the rest, threadlock everything metal to metal, yadda yadda.

MikeWz

05-09-2004, 03:30 AM

Haha, thanks man. I've built kits in the past. I just recently built a Trinity Reflex so I'll have no problems with the basic building stuff. It's just that each kit has the little things you gotta fix/change to make it perfect. That's pretty cheap that Kyosho doesn't even include a small bottle shock oil. At least trinity gave me some 50wt oild :rolleyes:

OldskoolGT

05-09-2004, 10:50 AM

I think Kyosho's reasoning is that since the kit doesn't include tires, there's no need to include shock oil either. :)

Udi,

The Mugen clutch springs don't fit on the Kyosho flywheel sometimes due to production tolerances. The pins in the Kyosho flywheel are bigger than the Mugen.

MikeWz

05-09-2004, 01:13 PM

I think Kyosho's reasoning is that since the kit doesn't include tires, there's no need to include shock oil either. :)
They should get some better reasoning. If I'm paying $750 for your overpriced kit the least you can do is gimmie mah oil!!!

KanaiDude

05-09-2004, 01:37 PM

Hey Atm can you get there composite clutch shoes at tower? thanks...

Guys I TQ'd this weekend was running incredible, was up by a lap with 8 minutes left in the main, and my rear inside dogbone popped out OMG, I had switched to a 3 degree rear block for the first time this weekend, and it is the first time it had happened, 1 degree and that happened, I will switch back to the 2, I could taste the win!

atm92484_3

05-09-2004, 05:34 PM

You should be able to. They're part number ifw052.

KanaiDude

05-10-2004, 12:11 PM

Hey guys wanted to get a quick opinion of the 3pk here, i have an m8 and was thinking of trading in, i have all synth and am actually thinking of switching back to crystals, ocassionally if a racer get to close to my car with his radio mine will twitch, anyway just curious what you guys thought of the 3pk, thanks...

dgrobe2112

05-10-2004, 12:34 PM

That is the one by Futaba right?? with the screen in the back.. i think that is a nice radio.. another good one is the JR R1, that one is really nice.. and the Ko Propo EX10 Helios is slick.. i think with that 3pk, you gotta run digital servos.. cuz its a digital pcm receiver or something.. thought i heard something about that.. but i dont know.. i have M8, fully synthesized.. and love it.. i get a glitch when something metal touches the car.. but thats the only time...

uaerc

05-11-2004, 07:43 AM

Hi guys

At the Kyosho world Cup this year, The majority of the Drivers were using M8 (Airtronics - Sanwa), it was very unusual for us as our local drivers are on R1 most of them except for one or two on Futaba.

Well as a matter of fact someone was telling me that the Options on the M8 are more than the rest...so hearing it from the horses mouth I have already thinking of buying a M8 but the problem here is that no one sells it in this part of the world have to import it !!

regards
Aziz

KanaiDude

05-11-2004, 08:19 AM

The m8 is a nice radio its just a little outdated in my opinion and I don't really like how it sits in my hand, is why i was thinking of switching to the 3pk which has all the same options as the m8 and has anti lock breaks and a fail safe. I know most guys still run the m8 but I can't say i'm real crazy about the whole synth thing, i don't know just throwing around some ideas, my biggest problem with the m8 is the general design, the features are great!

MikeWz

05-11-2004, 10:27 AM

Yeah the features of the M8 are excellent. I also dont' like the design. It's too bulky and much heavier in the front with the big LCD coming off the top. I personally like the whole synth thing. My track requires at least two different frequencies if you're using crystals so it saves some hassle

I personally like the R1 the best. It just feels nice and it has all the features I Need...unfortunately it's a bit on the expensive side

dgrobe2112

05-11-2004, 11:11 AM

well, i run a M8, and love it.. i dont know if i like all the gadgets and stuff on the other radios.. the M8 is easy to work with.. very forward.. and to the point.. some of those radios.. you gotta go like 3 or 4 levels into the menus to get to where you want..

KanaiDude

05-11-2004, 12:00 PM

dgrobe2112

05-11-2004, 12:23 PM

well.. the wonderful thing about synthesized.. is you dont need 30 sets of crystals.. which add up alot.. if i were to get another radio.. i would prolly get the KO, thats what i see alot of the pro guys here running.. i like the style of it.. its adjustable. i know the futaba is adjustable.. wonder if either of these radios are synthesizable or not..

dgrobe2112

05-11-2004, 12:24 PM

and the Futaba.. is gonna be top heavy as well.. just like the M8, i held the 3pk, for a buddy once.. while he messed with his car.. and i didnt like the feel of it.. now the Helios.. has a great feel too it..

KanaiDude

05-11-2004, 12:45 PM

The futaba will be synthed in the next few months they are on tower already just have tentative dates. I do like the helios to, am actually leaning a little towards that one, I wish tower carried it or was a little easier to get, I think you can get on ko websight its like 299, I don't know if there new hrs reciever is strickly digital though, I don't think it is, it does say its 30 percent faster, there are a bunch of factory drivers using the helios as well.

dgrobe2112

05-11-2004, 02:08 PM

We got one here at out local hobby shop.. i can see how much he wants for it.. if your interested..

MikeWz

05-11-2004, 03:12 PM

I'm not sure if synths actually save that much hassle, you have to open your battery box anyway to change the freg, is about the same as pulling a crystal. So if you were going to get a new radio which would it be the 3pk or the Ko propo Helios, am almost thinking of getting the hrs reciever and digital servos also, pondering...
Found an easy fix to that. You can drill a hole in the radio box where the little thing goes so you can get a screw driver in there to change it. It may be harder to see but it's not too tough to figure it out. You can gut a peice of O-Ring to stick in the hole. Works fer me

dgrobe2112

05-11-2004, 03:45 PM

not too hard to pull one clip out of the radio box.. pull the foam on top of the RX out.. change freq's.. put back.. takes about a total of 30 seconds tops..

MikeWz

05-11-2004, 04:57 PM

Yeah sometimes it's kinda annoying to get all the servo wires back in there. At least on my MGT box. I don't have the Kanai yet so I don't know how much room it has. Works for me though

dgrobe2112

05-11-2004, 05:21 PM

oh.. i see what your saying.. but i got all my wires zip tied together.. i got a laer of foam on the bottom.. then the wires.. siptied.. then another layer of foam.. reciever.. foam.. then the top.. i hated all those wires too.. so i finaly routed them to it was nice and clean..

OldskoolGT

05-11-2004, 05:43 PM

The best thing aboug going synthesized IMHO is that you have access to all the channels. This way you can always get some practice in at big races where people are always hogging the frequency clips. I bought a XS3 just for this very reason.

dgrobe2112

05-11-2004, 06:05 PM

I couldnt agree with you more on that.. go to big races.. never get to practice.. if you dont have synthesized.. you could actually go up to the clip board.. grab a clip.. go change frequencies.. then practice.. then when you are done.. change back to your specified frequency..

KanaiDude

05-11-2004, 06:55 PM

So really how many sets of crystals would you feel comforatable with, i don't think i've had to change mine more then 3-4 times in one day, so thats like 75 dollars in crystals, i just don't like how my xxtra will flip out when another radio is very close to it. I thought about the XS3 seems like a nice system for the money, since it is more of the pistol grip i'm looking for. It's not to much about the money i would like to get the helios, my m8 is a few years old and i don't like how it feels, i could sell the m8 switch and 3 xxtras on ebay and still break even. I'm tempted even to get the 3pk hrs and get new digital servos and try that out, i got like 5 servos i could sell to, delimas delimas...

dgrobe2112

05-12-2004, 10:28 AM

how many would i be comfortable with.. well.. i would need alot.. because.. prolly 10.. that way there is a for sure not gonna be someone on a set that i got in 1 heat.. also.. it sux having no extra set.. especially if you dont out qualify the person on your channel.. cuz if you dont.. then he got dibbs on tha frequency.. then if you dont have another set. maybe someone else does.. but if no one will let you borrow their crystals.. your out of a race.. Synthesized is the only way to go..

JDAWG53

05-12-2004, 03:32 PM

3PK is an awesome radio. You do not have to run digitals if you get the fm version. If you get the HRS version then yes, you have to use digital servos. If you dont have enough digitals for all your vehicles, you can purchase extra receivers on fm or pcm. Problem solved. If you run non-digital servos with the HRS it will burn them up.

Kanai Dude
Put a set of front universals in the back and problem solved. They are slightly longer. You can tell the difference between the two because the fronts have a ring around the dogbone portion.

KanaiDude

05-12-2004, 03:48 PM

I'm thinking I should keep the m8 for a little while longer thanks for all the responses... Sounds like a good fix Jdawg I'll have to check that out, funny on towers sight now there is only 1 set of universals listed for the K3 is that because of the longer shocks and they need longer universals, so they are just listing the front ones now?

dgrobe2112

05-12-2004, 03:49 PM

yeah Kdude.. your running the K3?? if your running the K3, alot of guys been having that problem with the rear dogbone.. same side too.. need to either limit the suspension.. or get the fronts for the rear.. and your fixed up..

uDi_MP75

05-12-2004, 07:55 PM

I'm running a 3PK HRS and two 9451 digitals now, I picked the lot up for us280 second hand.
I would love to finger a Helios one day too though, it seems like a sweet radio - but the 3PK would be more enjoyable to program and mess with id say, the big display really lays everything out for ya.

jdawg - if you run non-digitals with HRS, you not only risk blowing the servos but the reciever as well.

If people want synth though I wouldnt bother with the 3PK, it costs too much $$ to buy the synth rx and module on top of radio cost, I'd just go for something cheaper like the XS3 or even better this 3PM-FS whenever it decides to exist.

KanaiDude

05-13-2004, 07:56 AM

Yea the only thing holding me back on the 3pk or the helios for that matter is the synth, I may opt to get a 3pk later in the year when the synths are out, I bet the futaba one is sweet fairly glitchless...

uDi_MP75

05-15-2004, 07:11 AM

The synth stuff is out for the 3PK (on backorder on tower anyway) but there is no "package" as such with the synth gear included yet.

Got a question, can someone weigh their K3? (someone who actually has a K3.. I think most of us K2 guys here opted to keep our K2's.. I did) Anyways, im just curious to see how much lighter it "really" is like a true figure.

My last check on my 7.5 it weighed about 3500g completely RTR minus fuel.

thanks

DANNY WENZEL

05-16-2004, 10:50 PM

Hey man is that with body and tiers body clips and all but fuel you know the motor
and pipe can make some small diff to . I have k3 and k2 even k1 I will check to see
what the k3 weight is . I can tell you right off that it is not that much and I never had any dog bones come out at all .

DANNY WENZEL

05-23-2004, 10:32 PM

less motor pipe and pipe wire less body rims and tires and fuel but I did have the weel nuts on also had two fuel filters and line and no battery like this my k3 weight was
2305.9 gr. I will try to weigh it all together agian later

uDi_MP75

05-24-2004, 12:14 AM

Try and get a weight of the K3 complete.

That is - everything needed for it to run except fuel in the tank.

Wheels, tyres, body, body clips, engine, pipe, batteries, radio gear, the lot.

And just list if you have any hopups that might drastically affect the weight - like aftermarket towers, chassis, whatever.

dgrobe2112

05-24-2004, 09:46 AM

OldskoolGT.. was great to finally meet you Eric.. its neat to meet some people you dont know.. was cool.. cuz i woulda never thought to ask you if that was you.. but i guess you recognized my name huh.. your car was running good this weekend.. too bad about the wheel coming off in the main.. that sux.. get them next time.. i will see you at the Nitro Invitational at JCG raceway.. :)

OldskoolGT

05-24-2004, 11:50 PM

Daniel,

I look forward to racing with you at the Invitational. By then, I should have my wheel nut issues solved. :)

dgrobe2112

05-25-2004, 09:03 AM

haha.. that sucked.. but oh well.. it coulda been worse.. bumping up in all the mains.. only to have your clutch bearings seize up.. :(

uaerc

05-28-2004, 08:15 AM

got my K3 finally, got an OS VZ B (P) 4 it with a T 2040 ppipe. bldg going reallly goood break in tonight............

its a beauty.........

ciao

uaerc

05-28-2004, 03:33 PM

Hi

I just did the breakin couple of hours ago, OS VZ B really........screamss...... big time. What a engine..... Got a JR 8425 on the steering and a DS 811 on the throttle. I just did a couple of tanks right now. But i am facing a problem with the shocks..... since there was no oil with the kit..... i had a Kyosho 500 lying around from my v one rr so i used it. but i feel its too soft..... coz the car just sits down...... or is it droop? well what oil you guys are using... ?

I heard there are some hop up parts for the car....... anyone know where? I need the metal rear stay... using the one marked 2.5 as per the manaul.

at the moment all i can say is the car looks extremely cool and my first go was rock steady and looks very stable.....

ciao
Aziz

uDi_MP75

05-28-2004, 08:15 PM

I think 500 oil equals about 35wt (if my memory serves me.... i might be wrong) and yeah that is a little too soft. I think good numbers are 60wt in front shocks and 40wt rear. I use team associated shock oil.

I'm running 50wt front and rear because im poor, but will try 60/40 next time.

The car sitting down is normal, and its normal for the chassis to hit the ground often too so dont let it bother you. You can run a few more preload spacers if it's too low for your liking, but dont run too many or it will handle badly.

Theres plenty of hopups for the car but you only really need a few (nearly nothing for the kanai ed's) unless you feel like spending more money.

what is the metal rear stay? the rear hingepin holder things?

uaerc

05-30-2004, 08:50 AM

UDI MP 7.5

Thanks for the info..... correct me if i am wrong..... if 500 = 35wt then 60 = 1000 ?? right and 40 = 600 ! well i guess i will try that and check it out.

Yeah the rear hinge pin holder.....I think its called the rear toe in block comes in different sizes..... or degrees rather. Wanted to have that in blue, the stock handles well for the moment would like to know if anyone selling that in bluee metal.

Painting the body currently will send some pics soon.

Ciao
Aziz

uDi_MP75

05-30-2004, 09:20 PM

500, 1000, 600 etc are ratings in CPS (centipoise) and are linear ratings, while WT is a progressive rating - so you can't compare them in a linear fashion.

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/tip/shock.html

there is some more info there.

So yeah, 40wt = 500, and 60wt = 800 approx

so you could go 700-800 in front shocks, and 500 in rear.

As for the rear toe block thing, you can get it in blue but it will offer different handling properties. Most people seem to run the stock 2deg/gold one there.

My friend makes one in silver and thats the one I run (still 2deg, but thicker and stronger)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5900844390

It looks blue in the pic but that is just the glare in the photo, its actually polished aluminium. If its just for looks, that part looks pretty good :)

OldskoolGT

05-31-2004, 12:51 AM

uaerc,

The 2.5 degree rear block is a new part for the K3. I am not aware of anyone making it in aluminum.

I just noticed I bent a 3 degree anti-squat from Mr. Murry (see pic). That part had a very short life (less than 1 hour of runtime on the buggy). The blue part on bottom is a unused (ie flat) anti-squat plate).

uDi_MP75

05-31-2004, 01:26 AM

okay cancel what i said.

what are the stock ones made of? his ones are 6061.

OldskoolGT

05-31-2004, 01:41 AM

I think the ones on the K2/3 are 7075. I believe the thinness of the stock parts actually makes them more resistant to bending because the hingepin can't exert as much leverage on the part. The bent part is still can still be used though. The bend doesn't change the amount of anti-squat which is it's the only critical dimension of the part.

dgrobe2112

06-01-2004, 09:23 AM

if you want blue ones.. get fioroni.. they are all blue.. i personally run Racers edge.. if there is any hop ups needed on the car.. i would get the front and rear shock tower.. that is all that i would think you would need.. oh.. and definitly.. chassis braces.. the stock ones are too wek.. Racers edge.. or fioroni..

fioroni is blue.. matches the Kanai blue colors.. Racers edge is anodized.. gold.. that matches the chassis color of the kanai..

OldskoolGT

06-01-2004, 11:24 AM

If you want to run 3 degrees of anti-squat (the stock K3 setting) I don't even think it's possible to use rear hingepin holders that are made of aluminum. On a K3, the rear hingepin holder gets a bit twisted in order to get the hingpin through the anti-squat plate. Aluminum parts don't have the flex in them which would allow them to work like this.

uaerc

06-02-2004, 03:40 PM

UDI MP 7.5

Hi

Just got 70wt of trinity Shock oil which was the only i could find..... so i picked it up put it up but didnt drive yet.....will chek that out....... the 2.5 works great for me..... i think its a idea to try the 3 aswell...... will test and let you guys know.

cheers
Aziz

uaerc

06-03-2004, 05:25 PM

Hi Guys

I just bought a 1000 mah Power Racing Products hump pack for my K3 today. when i showed it to one of the guys, he told me that its not a good battery pack, but unfortunately thats all that i have here in 6volts... the other choice was a futaba 600 mah. I dont think 600 mah is sufficient for Digital servos ?

Well anyway just wanted to check with you guys how this PRP packs are anyone used them or not yet ??

Any website links ? i can't find any !!

KanaiDude

06-03-2004, 05:38 PM

Yea it's pretty low on the totem poll in terms of quality, they are pretty much duplicating other peoples stuff and are not very good at it. I bought a pair of there crimefighter like tires and sold them new on ebay because I knew they wouldnt last but a race just by the quality of the rubber, sharpness of the tread etc. Just be careful and don't overcharge the pack to much it will probably be fine for a while.

OldskoolGT

06-03-2004, 10:01 PM

I would think a PRP batterypack would be decent because they are probably not the ones who manufactured the cells. They just buy the loose cells, solder them together and slap their name on it. However, companies like PRP take cost (and quality) cutting levels to new heights, so don't be surprised if it fails in some bizarre way.

uaerc

06-04-2004, 03:02 AM

Guys.....

I think its good for a run or two at the most thats what i am gonna do. will order some good battery packs later...... I am using Tamiya super champ 1.5 v batts. 4 of them give me 6v so i kinda like the extra punch.

How about the 600 Futaba pack howz that....... i use one in my V one rr it runs ok. but not on Digital servos. ? Dont know how long a 600 mah pack will last on a K3 ?

I attached a pic, just painted the body its my first body shell so it turned out pretty ok, thought it was the most difficult thing but come to think of it... its quite simple. Althought i copied the scheme from one of the pics i saw on the net...that one was really well done....... mine looks ok. Need to put up some stickers to make it look better. Will post a better pic later.

I noticed leakage in the front shock. refilled it last night. what could be the reason ?

Ciao.
Aziz

KanaiDude

06-04-2004, 12:39 PM

Hey they body looks great! I doubt the 600 pack would last very long in the K3 it's pretty demanding on the servos. Check to make sure your rubber boot is not pressed all the way into the cap on your shock, it needs to be riding on the next groove inside the cap, I had a leaky shock and that was my problem...

KanaiDude

06-04-2004, 07:41 PM

check out this motor is probably one of the better deals for the money http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5902135707&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

team_luigis

06-05-2004, 03:08 PM

i have a question..

the spings that goes around the clutch shoe in the kanai3 are there 1.1 springs ??

OldskoolGT

06-05-2004, 03:25 PM

No. Just regular 1.0 springs.

team_luigis

06-05-2004, 04:49 PM

is there a big diff between 1.0 and 1.1 ?

OldskoolGT

06-06-2004, 11:46 AM

About 0.1.

1.1s are used to make the clutch engage later. Often used with engines with weak bottom end power. It does make the car harder to control though because the power will come on very abruptly.

team_luigis

06-06-2004, 11:31 PM

so,what do u suggest to start whit the 0.1 ?

other question., is it worthed to put an lsd ?
what does it brings more to a buggy whit no lsd ? at the end is it better and perform better or its a waste of money ?

uaerc

06-07-2004, 08:29 AM

Car runs like a dream.. the OS VZ B is a bit rich on the idle..will set that up this evening.....didnt get the time.. was busy with the v one rr.

UDI 7.5

I drove it with the 70 shock oil since i am begginner didnt notice much difference in it. Though one thing i did notice that the car does not skidd off.......seems to be really stable.....other buggies i drove used to spin round in circles if you give too much throttle........

well hats off to YK for the K3...... really stable!!

Ciao
Aziz

savageP3

06-09-2004, 07:21 PM

anyone here looking to sell or trade a buggy? im in the market

KanaiDude

06-09-2004, 10:50 PM

You guys notice on neo-buggy there taking pre-orders for the 777 due in july or something, someone should email them and get the scoop.

OldskoolGT

06-10-2004, 12:17 AM

So who here plans on switching to a 777 once it comes out? I think I will stick to my K3 for a little while at least.

savageP3,

I have a buggy for sale!!!

uDi_MP75

06-10-2004, 07:02 AM

Reckon there'll be a conversion kit?

We're talking same chassis, bulkheads, etc right?

if not i'm K2'ing for the rest of this year at least

KanaiDude

06-10-2004, 07:51 AM

Yea me to, I bet that shocks are PHAT looking though, oh I mean FAT, well you know what I mean...

OldskoolGT

06-10-2004, 03:51 PM

I have heard that 70-80% of the parts on the 777 are new so a conversion kit seems unlikely.

atm92484_3

06-10-2004, 10:02 PM

So who here plans on switching to a 777 once it comes out? I think I will stick to my K3 for a little while at least.

My K2 will be 2 years old at that point with 2 seasons on it so I'd say it would be about time for something new. I plan on picking up a 777 as soon as Kyosho releases some sort of factory version with all the hop-ups in the box. After doing the regular 7.5 to K1 to K2 thing with this buggy (and having enough parts to build a back-up car), I don't plan on going that route again.

OldskoolGT

06-11-2004, 12:05 AM

I believe there will be a "worlds" version of the 777, with all the good stuff out of the box. In some pictures I saw of the Japanese hobby show, there appears to be a basic version of the car and a fancy version. Considering how all buggies come equipped today, a basic version without turnbuckles just ain't gonna cut it.

uDi_MP75

06-11-2004, 08:39 AM

I'm waiting on a few more releases of the 777 at least before i jump over. If I can control myself I won't get one at all, hopefully it'll be the latter.

70-80% parts new?
sure doesn't look like it, unless we talk about the parts that have been changed ever so slightly just for the hell of it (ie things like radio tray being lowered 2mm etc...)

I'm sure they could release a conversion kit? or maybe they changed so many stupid little things so it wasn't possible to upgrade and guys have to buy new kits. meh who knows, i'm not buying another buggy for a while anyway. Kind of failing to see the point of upgrading to the 777 other than "latest and greatest factor".... We've got enough droop as it is, 3.5 shafts seem to hold up alright, and the other changes might as well not even count?

kyosho have done jack all innovating for a 4 year timespaced release, in a buggy line which is supposed to be the best (?) in existance. I know i'm crying like a ***** wet bitch here, but come on, I think they did a pretty crappy job....

Little_Horn

06-11-2004, 09:06 AM

You're in luck...

Kyosho will lunch 3 versions of the mp777:

Normal version (just like normal mp 7.5);
Special version (I think this is the real name, not kanai..., just like the new K3);
Special version with kanai sirio engine (just like the above, but with the engine).

I'm already waiting for the normal mp777. I made a pre-order to my LHS. When it get's there, will'll be the first to know (and to buy).

OldskoolGT

06-11-2004, 06:10 PM

Udi,

The 7.5 is close to buggy perfection. So you don't need to make big changes to the design to achieve buggy perfection. Hence the subtle changes of the 777. The 2 most competitive (non-Kyosho) buggies resemble the 7.5 for a good reason.

uDi_MP75

06-12-2004, 07:21 AM

Precisely. So why not be kind to the previous gen owners and keep it upgradeable and release a conversion kit? Couldn't be too hard, i'm sure when MP5 to MP6 happened, the changes were few, so they had a conversion kit? I forget now, but i'm pretty sure they did.

Be nice if they did that here, but oh well I guess that's life.

Design-wise the chassis, bulkheads and drivetrain are the same as the kanai's right? ie "long" universals front and rear (like K2/K3 front) and the usual stuff in between? Or are uni lengths different as well?

uaerc

06-12-2004, 07:38 AM

I think what little horn said about the cars...has a valid point which can be due to the fact... that they are not going to call it the Kanai Edition since the contract with YK and Kyosho expires. They need to rename the cars.....so what they are doing is just re-releasing the same cars with the new name, or mayb some minor upgrades.

And we are all getting worked up for nothing -!! lol
;)

just an opinion ! :)

cheers
Aziz

OldskoolGT

06-12-2004, 01:05 PM

I think there will be too many different parts to make a conversion kit practical. I believe the bulkheads have been redesigned and are narrower and lower to accomodate the new wider suspension. And the chassis is probably narrower in the front and rear to match the bulkheads. I'd imagine the servo saver/steering linkage is now shorter too since everything on the buggy is mounted lower.

uDi_MP75

06-12-2004, 08:23 PM

Fair enough I guess.. I've got a feeling that the bulkheads/chassis are the same though. who knows anyway, i'll just get a few more race seasons on the K2 get it all used and played out and pick up a fresh 777 model sometime later..... hopefully they'll have revised it a few times by then.

OldskoolGT

06-13-2004, 11:10 AM

The chassis is definitely different. The servo saver posts are closer together and mounted closer to the front of the chassis. On the main page at neo-buggy.net (on the main page), there are some new K3 pics. Look at the 4th one down on the left side. I believe there are some slight differences between the diff case pictured and the ones on the 7.5. And now on the front of the diff case, the holes for the 2 screws above the sway bar mount are now countersunk for flathead screws.

Little_Horn

06-13-2004, 03:42 PM

There are many subtle differences.
For example: in the weight/mass distribution subject, the center diff and the engine are closer to the front.
The chassis is a little larger (don't know if in length or width), the suspension arms are a little different, the shock towers are also a little different.

Here's a little more detailed list:

- Gearboxes now have an 'X' for added strength inside.
- Gearboxes now same material as K3 Arms (fragmented carbon)
- Longer lower arms
- Lower arms moved more to the centre
- New optional 2mm carbon servo saver plate, new design of the servo saver plate
- 2mm lower radioplate (No laydown servos)
- Engine & centre diff moved forward a little bit
- Chassis will be 2mm bigger (maybe longer/wider?)
- Small changes to both shock towers
- New longer reinforced upper arms curve (like MBX5)
- New 4mm shock shafts, larger shocks (width, length) New caps
- New lower servo saver design, steering will be from the outside
- New more aerodynamic body

So, I think a convertion kit is not likelly to happen...

Little_Horn

06-13-2004, 03:46 PM

One more thing I forgot. The MP 7.5 is so good already, that a new buggy can only have subttle changes, like the MP 777 does.
Changes have to be subttle. For example: 1/1 scale competition cars. Things are already so advanced that changes are only possible in small increments.

Mudvayne

06-14-2004, 01:03 AM

I've been having my mbx5 for a while now and love it. However, I would like to go ahead and purchase another buggy since I have the money. I was thinking of getting the kanai3. Is this one much better than the kanai2? The people at my track all run k2's so I apologize for my stupidity. Anyway, they told me since it is a small track I would not need any more than an O.S. RB1 .21 I think they mean Rg .21 correct? If so I would think I would need the pilot shaft bersion correct? I don't think O.S. even makes an RB1. Anyway, it's a black headed engine and for this track it really rips. Thanks in advance. I apologize for not doing mre research before posting I am just extremely worn out and ready to pass out and thought I would ask before I went and crashed.

OldskoolGT

06-14-2004, 02:32 AM

At this point I would suggest you wait for the new 777 which is due out in a month or two. If your going to spend a bunch of money on a buggy, it ought to be the latest and greatest. After that you can ditch your Mugen.

I think the engine people are reccomending to you is the OS RG, which makes excellent low end power for small tracks. That engine really shines with an aftermarket head though.

uDi_MP75

06-14-2004, 03:35 AM

Okay fair enough. (I stand corrected? hmm)

So are the shock bodies actually wider, like higher capacity now? that'd be cool. Or at least make up for the extra room inside the the thicker shafts are taking up.

KanaiDude

06-14-2004, 07:56 AM

I was racing against an RG this weekend, it had been modded and had a head on it, OMG that thing was fast. He came in 3rd I came in 4th out of 16. The car just seemed so nimble and light, I have more power with my p5 but he seemed to have just the right amount of power.

So I am going to switch my diff setup, I was using an LSD up front with 6, 1 middle rear. So do you guys think that 5-7-1 is still the best setup I was thinking of going back to that now that I am getting more comfortable with my driving.

Anybody else using the fioroni disk brakes, they are a composite like material, they don't seem to work real well IMO, was just curious, the material just seems to get dusty taking away from brake power.

Do you guys no where i can get the axle shims at, or what part number it is? The shims that goes inbetween the hub and the axle.

atm92484_3

06-15-2004, 01:24 AM

I need some opinions from you guys on my P5. Its running great; the engine has a TON of power and there are no flat spots on the powerband and the engine is smoking like Cheech and Chong, but it regularly peaks in the 270s-280s even with an O'Donnell head and an O'Donnell 99 plug.

I've already tried tweaking the mixture, but there was little positive result. After tuning for a few tanks, I did get the temps down by about 30-40 degrees, but the low speed is very inconsistent now. After coming down from high throttle, the engine does not want to rev down immediately (it takes 10-15 seconds sometimes) eventhough the low speed is very rich (so rich that if the engine sits for more than 5-10 seconds, it loads up and nearly stalls when its given gas). I know temps do not mean a lot, but do you guys think that those temps are normal for the engine with that head and 30% MHP?

Also, what shims came on your P5s? Mine has 2 aluminum shims (the .3mm ones) and 1 copper shim (I think its the .05mm one). I called Fusion today regarding the stock shimming, but I guess everyone was gone for the day since I only got a machine. My last resort is to reseal the engine again and try new fuel lines and possibly a new tank and maybe add another .05-.1mm's worth of shims. Any other ideas?

Little_Horn

06-15-2004, 06:33 AM

Well, first of all, you don't say if you unscrewed the HSN, the LSN, or both. But, if the engine was running fine with the previous settings, the first thing I would do is richenning the HSN. If the performance was a little smaller, but the engine keeps overheating, then you got too much engine compression.
I think that it might be the case, on this particullar situation. If so, add a small shim, tune the engine, and see how it goes. If you notice a slight change if temperatures (going down) then, your doing what needs to be done. Keep adding shims until you notice a good compromise between performance and temperature.

Remember, that engine is soposed to have good performances so, tune it and shim it in a way that it stays "competitive".

Hope this helps somehow.

KanaiDude

06-15-2004, 08:26 AM

atm I run my p5 at like 220-240 with an odonnel head, and I think it is actually a little conservative and am probablyl going to lean the lsn a touch next race because of the bog issue when running rich. I think your temps are actually close to normal for this motor, and the way you probably like it tuned. I know a guy who runs his hot at 300 and loves it all kinds of power. I don't think 270 is to high for an engine of this quality, I am wondering if the odonnel plug is a tad to cold also, maybe switching to a #6 would be better? I have the same sort of issues with my motor it seems, i'm running the same plug, and odonnel 30%, and there head, same motor to a T.

atm92484_3

06-15-2004, 09:18 AM

I had a C6S and I wasn't too impressed with the engine's performance. It was acceptable, but the engine ran much better on the OD99.

Little, I forgot to mention that part, but I have been tuning both the HSN and LSN. The first thing I tried was richening the HSN and that did little good.

I'm going to reseal the carb (just to eliminate that) and try reshimming later today; hopefully someone at Fusion returns my call and confirms that these are the right shims. Thanks for the help and suggestions guys.

KanaiDude

06-15-2004, 10:43 AM

Please keep me posted atm as I like the motor but it frustrates me also from time to time...

OldskoolGT

06-16-2004, 01:05 AM

ATM,

My P5 came shimmed with 2 of the thicker aluminum shims and 1 really thin copper shim too.

dgrobe2112

06-16-2004, 08:41 AM

OK.. ATM.. i had the same exact problem with my WS7.. the problem was.. the low end needle was too fat.. and i compesated with a lean high speed needle... and because it was so fat on the bottom.. i had to have a high idle.. so on a lean top.. with a high idle.. when you come off of a high speed run.. the car will idle high.. and then drop off once the low end settles in.. with more fuel.. what i think you should do.. it richen the high end.. set the low end first.. i tried setting the high speed needle first.. i know the directions say to.. but i have had that problem.. so .. set the low end for good punch.. make sure you got smoke when you gas it.. then set the high speed needle.. hope this helps..

Mudvayne

06-16-2004, 10:55 PM

What do yall think about the hex screw conversion kit for the k3 from www.hexcrews.com It's like $40 something dollars. I can't stand phillips head screws I am notorious for stripping them out. Plus I can use my Losi wrenches which I love to build my k3 kit. Thanks in advance.

OldskoolGT

06-16-2004, 11:23 PM

I wouldn't pay $40 to replace the *titanium* screws that come in the K3 with heavier steel screws. A regular philips screwdiver fits most of the ti screws very nicely, no need to worry about stripping them.

I would replace the phillips head wood screws that the diffs use, with hex head machine screws though.

KanaiDude

06-17-2004, 08:01 AM

Just make sure your using a fat enough screwdriver head so you can get some power when screwing them, I actually like phillips screws using a fat head makes it pretty easy to wrench them out...

dgrobe2112

06-17-2004, 09:00 AM

Mudvayne,.. you can go to Ebay and get them for like less than 30 shipped.. i like the hex head also.. but i end up stripping them as well.. so. either way.. you will be stripping them.. go get a big phillips screw driver.. adn you should be good to go..

dgrobe2112

06-18-2004, 03:33 PM

OldSkoolGT.. am i correct is reading on another forum.. that you got a MBX5 now?? what did you do with your K3??

Madaz

06-18-2004, 08:59 PM

hi, I got my kanai3 about 2 months ago (finally got rid of the 7.5 sport)

here are some pictures of when it was new and undriven. The paint job is inspired from a ford GT40 le man car from the 60's :cool:
Its powered by my ofna hyper21 4 port which went from my landmax1 to my 7.5 sport and now to the kanai!!

since ive been driving it i have had the left rear universal pop out a couple of times but i plan to replace the diff cup with a centre diff cup which solves the problem im told. (the centre diff cup has the flats on it for the brake disc and its slightly longer)

Also i bent the front shock tower quite badly when i flipped driving at a quarry :mad: :rolleyes: but i think overall its about 10 times stronger than mysport so im quite happy.

Madaz

06-18-2004, 09:03 PM

with no body...

Mudvayne

06-19-2004, 02:07 AM

Alright I started building my K3 tonight. I built all the diffs and everything is fine so far. My only question is is it really crucial to shim the differential in the case a certain way? Right now I have 2 spacers on each side. One side moves just a tad and the other just a tad more than the other. I don't think it would be anything to worry about the diff moves as smooth as can be. I mean the movement is little. This is the rear diff case by the way. Thanks in advance. Also, any other suggestions anyone has on building my kit? Kind of like little secrets to make it better?lol Anyway, thanks in advance.

uDi_MP75

06-19-2004, 06:44 AM

I just wanted to post and say I got a JP and an RB tuned right today and will probably never run an OS engine ever again. I'm totally stoked :)

One was the RB C5C with the turbo plug, and once I dropped in a fresh plug, put a bigger head on it, and went for some nicer fuel with less oil it was running like a champ, and I got it tuned great. So turbo-plugged engines aren't so bad after all from my point of view. And if anyone cares, the engine goes like a raped ape, like nothing else on the planet. Good fun for bashing.

OldSkoolGT.. am i correct is reading on another forum.. that you got a MBX5 now?? what did you do with your K3??

OSGT has an mbx5 as well as some kanais but he only uses the mbx5 as a door stop for when he takes the kanais out. :) Someone post the pic, i don't have it....

Mudvayne -

diff shimming is different for every kit, that's why they don't tell you how many to put in either side.
the trick is to use as many shims as needed to have the gear mesh right. You want it just slightly tight, not too tight, it should still roll smoothly, but just a TINY bit tight. Because then the gears will bed into each other with use and have a perfect mesh. If you have it too loose, the effects will be a lot more drastic, and you'll ruin the gears.

Like I said just a TINY bit tight, i mean you could aim for "just right" too if you wanted, with no tightness or looseness but that is pretty hard, so just a tad tight is the way to go. This is really something you'll have to develop a feel for, but I hope what I said helps. Make sure you coat the gears in some nice grease when your done anyway, I use Tamiya molybdenum grease.

Mudvayne

06-21-2004, 07:40 PM

1 more question on the k3. I noticed that on the middle and rear diffs they have pictures saying to put the little washers on after the gear(you know the small gears inside that goes on the black bar). Anyway, the front lsd diff does not show this picture. In my bag are 4 left over washers. Was I supposed to put these on the front diff gears as well? Thanks in advance.

OldskoolGT

06-21-2004, 11:11 PM

That is correct. You do not need to put any shims in the front (TCD) diff. Only the regular diffs use those washers.

purplerides

06-23-2004, 03:01 PM

dgrobe2112

06-23-2004, 03:56 PM

really depends.. mine is setup for racing.. i run 60 in the front and 40 in the rear.. that is a pretty standard setup.. lot of the local racers here run that..

Toycar

06-25-2004, 04:08 AM

What weight shock oils do you guys use in the front and rear. the kit doesn't recommend any specific weight. I put 37.5 in up front and 32.5 in the rear. I was wondering if i'm close to what most people run.

If you want a general baseline setting go to the kyosho site under set-up sheets and print out Yuichi Kanai's K3 setup for the Japan natonals.

Toycar

06-25-2004, 04:49 AM

Couldn't wait for my WS711 to come in so I ravaged my Associated MGT. Took the pull start Wasp.26 and the 17T CB out and put it in the K3. 2.7HP@ 25000 rpm, peak torque @ 21000 rpm all bottom end. Holly! I was only at 183F. Had to lean it out 2.5 turns on the HSN and 1/2 turn on the LSN. I guess 1/2 the weight the engine isn't working as hard? Next time I'll get up to 220-240. It's going to be crazy.

It took alot of modding to get the pull start engine in there. To fit properly the engine needs to be elevated 4mm because the pull start end plate extends below the crank case hitting the chassis. The engine mount needs a a bit of grinding to clear the pull start back plate. Pull start needs to be rotated 90 degrees clockwise or else it goes on the pipe side. This requires more grinding to the pull start back plate. The exhaust side lower edge to clear the left engine mount and the inner cylinderical portion to make a notch to allow the crank con rod pin to clear. 2 1/2 hrs later done.

Wonder how the WS711 will be?

Blaster

06-25-2004, 07:24 AM

Madaz - nice to see you on a K3! Any chance to get those amazing action pics on this one too??? :D What kind of INK you used to paint the plasic of your rear wing?

uDi - hehe, nice to know you got a new mill! And what a mill! Would like to know how these JP engines run over stock... BTW, O.S engines are still great IMHO. I kept my VZ-B on my K2 and will race it with that on some races on 2nd hafh 2004.

YES, I bought a K3!!! Ok, not many new parts as most of you already know... :rolleyes: So hope to see you more often now... LOL

atm92484_3 and KanaiDude - My P5 runs great and idles fine. Runs around 220-230F. And as Oldskool's mine came with 2 shims and a cooper one. I use a #6 novarossi plug and the WildCat Eliminator Fuel with 20% nitro. The ambient temp here is around 22-25C.

Mudvayne - don't pay $40 to get new screws. Kyosho K buggies don't need changes on stock parts (IMO) unless you are willing to spend some money...

purplerides - I also use 800CPS (60WT) front and 600CPS (40WT) rear.

Toyocar - noting like I am intending to install a pullstarter on my K3 but would be interesting to see a pick of how your engine fitted on you buggy. You never know when you gonna need a "spare"....

uaerc

06-26-2004, 07:30 AM

Here is my K3.

K3 Gud side (http://www.uaerc.com/inferno/k3%20gud.jpg)

another one (http://www.uaerc.com/inferno/k3%20mid.jpg)

another one without body (http://www.uaerc.com/inferno/k3%20Wo%20body.jpg)
withbody (http://www.uaerc.com/inferno/k3%20w%20body.jpg)

I like tha booty ! lol (http://www.uaerc.com/inferno/k3%20back.jpg)

Let me know what u guys think

Cheers
Aziz

offroadcrazy01

06-26-2004, 11:38 AM

purple rides check this site out it has some of the best set-up sheets www.nitrocross.com this is a useful site too htt://users.pandora.be/elvo/

jason102276

06-26-2004, 12:39 PM

OK guys heres the question

i am about to get a new buggy and ive decide to get a kanai

should i get a kanai 3 or kanai 2

i have enough money to get either and i plan to sell it after this season and get a mp777 or mbx5 prospec next year based on my experience with this buggy

ive already had a mbx5 and liked it alot but ive always wondered if a kanai would be better so ive decided to sell all my r/c stuff and try the kanai

i was thinking K3 was the only way to go but a couple guys have already told me a K2 would be smarter

i do plan to switch to regular diffs but am curious how it would handle with the tcd's

i am also going to assume the rear universal popping out problem will be solved on the kit i am planning on buying since i heard that was only on the first run kits

honestly even after their advise im having a hard time buying older technology even if it is much cheaper

offroadcrazy01

06-26-2004, 02:02 PM

Jason it's all about set up-and driver and a decent car don't listen to the hype!!!Look how long the the associated gt been around Billy easton won with it 3 times that's old technology all the noobs will run out and buy the newest stuff the fast guys at my track spend there money on tires , shock oil and track time besides most of us are not racing pro's you will be fine with the k2,k3 or the mbx5 they are all top of the line

inferno69

06-26-2004, 05:46 PM

Does anyone know if someone makes a machined aluminum hub carrier for the K3?

jason102276

06-26-2004, 07:10 PM

well ive already got a mbx5 and while ive been satified with it i really wanna try the kanai just to finally know 100% which i like better

you know youve got 1 thing and everyone tells you the other thing is better and your just dying to know if thier right or wrong

i really wanna hear from someone who has had them both and can tell me hey i like the ______ better because_________ you know what i mean

i have gotten more people say just get a K2 cause its cheaper than any other response but then i find out they havent tried the K3 so then i think how can they really be sure

at this point the advise ive been given is heavily weighted toward the K2 but like i said it just doesnt seem right that the older version is the better version

but if the responses keep coming in like thay have been i will have to force myself to get a K2 and add a bunch of hop-ups to make myself feel better

Madaz

06-26-2004, 07:14 PM

inferno i think you can get them , i saw these for sale yesterday on my clubs website, look on the for sale page here ... Would they fit on a k3??
http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/arccc/
jason: you should get a kanai3 imo at least youll know youve got the latest model, if u get a kanai2 youll probly be tempted to buy the bits to make it a k3 anyway :p But like offroadcrazy says your car choice plays just a small part over setup, maintanence etc.
uaerc smooth looking car... "The green machine" :D

Blaster i just stuck signwriting vinyl on my wing to detail it. (And i made the kyosho stickers on the side out of it too) I dont think any paint would be flexable enough to stick properly. Ill do some action photography when i get some driving time in (busy life atm) :o

How have u guys stuck the body reinforcing bits of lexan to ya bodies? i was gonna screw em on because i dont know what glue would work well ??

jason102276

06-26-2004, 09:47 PM

madaz thanks for understanding i think i am going to get a K3 if for nothing else for piece of mind in knowing i bought the best i could at the time

plus i was just checking the rcca article reviewing the K3 and like little stuff on it like the lightened chassis titanium screws and aluminum hinge pin brace in the front

money isnt the issue on this purchase ive decided to scale back my r/c collection from 4 to 1 by selling it all on ebay and starting over so buying the best of everything is the plan

KanaiDude

06-26-2004, 10:29 PM

Madaz if your talking about the two pieces of lexan one for the nose and one for the rear don't glue or screw them down just place them on top of your body and under the body clips.

offroadcrazy01

06-27-2004, 12:49 PM

I'm not saying the k3 is not a great car I'm sure it is all i am saying is you can not buy your way into this hobbies i see guys with the best stuff and they lose all the time to the guy who just dose not crash this hobbie is costly as is with all the marketing trying to get you to buy this buy that my point is buy one car and drive the the wheels off of it Good Luck with you k3 one more thing I think the upgrades are so small it won't matter if your a better driver then the other guy I think easton would have won even if he was in a losi or a associated I think he proved that by winning the worlds in his b4

jason102276

06-27-2004, 02:04 PM

im not trying to buy my way into the hobby im trying to upgrade my equipment

i have a mbx5 a r40 a xxx-s and i've been racing nearly every weekend for 4 years

ive been quite sucessfull but decided ive been streching myself a little thin trying to afford to keep racing so much with so many different cars and classes

so i picked my favorite 1/8th buggy and decided to get a new 1 as a treat for selling all my current stuff

so i wanna get the best stuff i can get money isnt an issue my stuff is selling on ebay for plenty more than i need to get a new ride

also i have run nothing but mugen buggys for the past 2 years and ive always heard the kyosho guys saying their car was better so i wanna give it a try

ive decided that running only 1 class will allow me to buy a new buggy each year (no more trying to make a worn out buggy last) so this buggy will be used only till next spring

at which point i will decide based on my own personal experience which i liked better and choose either a mbx5 prospec or a mp777

and then i will decide whether to sell the current buggy or convert it to a truggy for bashing and big races (probably sell it)

and believe me i understand what you mean i could wait get a mp777 and im still not going to beat our fastest local drivers and i now know he drives a k2

but for me i know if i get a k2 im going to always think in the bad of my mind i shoulda got a k3 and that could be enough to ruin it for me

so ive answered my own question im getting a K3

any set-up advise besides what ive already got 70wt front oil 40 wt rear oil 5k front diff 7k center diff 1k rear diff and set-up the rest per the manual

im going to be running either a ws7 or ws7 2 and a ofna 053 or 063 pipe

i had a novarossi p5 on my mbx5 and really was quite happy with it but i feel it had a little too much bottom end power for me i like a smoother acceleration and the p5 mimicked an on off switch it had so much bottom end power

also hop-ups ive been told to get machined hubs and chassis braces any brand preferences i think someone said racers edge stuff was real nice

Mudvayne

06-27-2004, 07:50 PM

Okay, I've got my K3 all together now. I must say it went together extremely easy with no problems. I've got an L.Colarri 400 .21 on it with the O.S. 2050 pipe combo. Has anyone seen this engine in action? I run on a pretty small track and was told it would be perfect. I'm just wondering how fierce the low end is going to be. Only problem is this freeaking rain. It's been raining like mad down here in Louisiana so it will be at least another week(if it does not rain)before I get to see what this K3 can do. I hope I like it better than the mbx5. I'm still keeping my x5 anyway. Thanks in advance.

KyoshoKev

06-27-2004, 11:11 PM

I bought a set of K3 Shocks,

I was wondering about the size of the pistons...

they come with the WHITE pistons (that was in the plastic bag along with the o-rings) and then they have the BLACK pistons... that are found on the plastic rack that you tear off...

what are the respective hole sizes in the piston?

i am after 1.4mm pistons...

thanks in adv for any info

cheers

OldskoolGT

06-27-2004, 11:45 PM

The white pistons are 1.4 mm. I believe the black pistons are 1.3 mm. I think nobody uses the black pistons because they are made of regular plastic while the white pistons are made with teflon which results in smoother shocks.

KyoshoKev

06-28-2004, 12:18 AM

thx for that info...

i was jsut wondering... if i break my 3.5mm shafts... would 4.0mm from the 777 fit? or the 3.0mm (the later for interest sakes)

also does anyone know the length of the rod that goes thru the top of the shock tower? i think its 3mm, but how long is it? My shock kit didnt include it :(

thanks

KanaiDude

06-28-2004, 08:29 AM

dgrobe2112

06-28-2004, 08:49 AM

Kyoshokev.. i dont think either would fit.. you would need to get the shock kit for the 3.0's.. so the bushings would work with those shafts.. Kdude.. my buddy has a P5.. and he is running the 1.0 springs.. and did not go with aluminum shoes..

My personal experience.. i ran aluminum shoes this weekend.. while it was a rainy weekend.. and the track was very wet.. and the cars got very heavy.. the clutch just wouldnt work.. i am gonna keep the aluminum on there.. just to see how it does on a track without alot of mud..

Oldskool.. you had a pretty good weekend.. i want to thank you for your help this weekend.. in keepin me running.. i cant beleive i lost those parts.. and thank you for letting me use them.. if it werent for you.. i dont think i woulda been able to race..

jason102276

06-28-2004, 08:49 AM

on my P5 ive used ever spring out there and even with 0.9 springs and white shoes it still had great bottom end

in fact with the 1.1 and aluminum shoes i was tearing tires up too fast and traction was hard to come by

i definelty recommend you try softer springs and see what you think i was pleasantly surprised

as for the shock questions in dont think you wanna mix and match shock shafts the shaft has to seal in those o-rings too small shock will leak too big it will drag

atm92484_3

06-28-2004, 09:24 PM

Sorry for not posting sooner, but thanks for the help with the P5. DG had it right as to what the problem is. Now i'm at 240-250 at the end of the tank, with great power and a super consistent idle.

I've been using the 1.1 springs and composite shoes for the life of my P5 and its defiently hard hitting. It took some getting used to, but the nicest part is the ability to whip the back end of the car around on tight corners.

KyoshoKev

06-28-2004, 10:36 PM

Hi,

I am trying to buy screws.. i found a local supplier here who can provide me with some strong grade 12 (i think) screws....

can someone recommend me the main screws/nuts to get?

my manual (inferno sports) doesnt specify what size screws to use for all of the underbody chasis screws... i.e the diff, the engine, the front suspension, rear suspension.

can someone help me in telling me the size of those screws?

thx

dgrobe2112

06-29-2004, 08:49 AM

here is a set.. you can contact this guy.. and he can send you a list of the screws..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=5906871789&rd=1

uDi_MP75

06-29-2004, 09:41 AM

atm - is there any way to buy the plastic gear for the 9350 alone? or like without buying the whole gear set with the $$$ metal gears?

I took out the plastic one on the 9451 and I guess its time to give the 9350 a shot, but I will really kick myself if I buy it and find that whenever I strip the plastic gear i'll have to buy the complete gearset!

Please tell me I can buy the plassy gear alone.

-udi

shooky

06-29-2004, 10:39 AM

Anyone with a P5 or hard hitting bottem end which clutch shoes do you prefer 1.0 or 1.1??? I have 1.1 on mine and it may be just a tad to much, hard to hit a straight line under heavy acceleration. I came in 3rd this weekend WOOHOO movin on up, i've finished the last 3 races in the top 5 consistency is sweet!
I have just installed the Option Team Fioroni Turbo Sliding Clutch that puts 2/3 of the clutch in contact with the clutch bell, This Clutch is the BOMB, real easy to install requires no extra parts just a flywheel and the clutch shoes and springs. I have had it in my K3 for three months and shows little to no where....This is where I believe makes the difference between other types of clutches. If you like not having to replace your shoes every other week and like proformance than the turbo clutch is the way to go. I noticed no difference between a three shoe clutch and the turbo except the wear issue.
Steve

dgrobe2112

06-29-2004, 10:56 AM

UDI.. yes.. you should be able to buy a pack of the plastic gears. . there should be like 4 or 5 in the package as well.. or at least you can for a airtronics..

Shooky.. i heard some good of the sliding clutch.. but i need it to have hard springs.. for a WS7II motor.. i wouldnt mind getting one.. but i dont think those types of springs are hard enough to hold the engage of the WS7II motor..

KanaiDude

06-29-2004, 11:49 AM

DG my motor is running better now to, the HSN was to lean... I really like the Odonnell plugs also, I am using the them for both my .12 and .21.

I have had really good luck with futaba throttle servos coreless, I just replaced one I was using since i started at the begginning of last season. I am going to send the one I replaced back for a refurb, will probably be 30 dollars with shipping for them to send me a virtually new servo back, repair sevice from most of these companies is awesome if you have a few weeks...

I know people like the turbo clutch, I can't say I do much, you have no real idea what the springs are doing, i'd rather know what weight they are to make adjustments, I am going to try 1.0 springs rather then 1.1 and see if my throttle is not so touchy, I agree with atm though it is nice to be able to wip the rear around...

dgrobe2112

06-29-2004, 11:58 AM

yeah.. i changed some setup this past weekend.. and figured out alot on my car.. and got my car really dialed in.. worked great this weekend.. with the exception of the clutch.. i didnt like the alum shoes as much as the regular shoes...

Glad i could help you guys on the motor aspect.. the manuals.. and alot of people say to set the high end needle first.. then set the low end.. but i have had trouble doing that.. so i set the low end.. using a pinch test.. just to get close.. look for smoke on throttle.. then once i get the car to respond good with just a blip of the throttle.. then i start leaning the high end needle..

KyoshoKev

06-30-2004, 12:39 AM

can someone tell me what the difference between kanai2 and K3 shock set is?

or is the same thing?

thanks

OldskoolGT

06-30-2004, 02:52 AM

K3 has significantly longer rear shocks. Front shocks are the same.

Regarding the screws for the car, the big flathead screws that hold the bulkheads to the chassis are M4 20mm screws (get machine screws, not wood screws). The scews used on the diffs are M3 15mm scews (I'd also suggest machine screws here too).

dgrobe2112

06-30-2004, 08:41 AM

the difference.. the K3 shock bodies are 4mm longer than the K2 shock bodies.. and the shock shafts are 2mm longer than the k2 shock shafts.. for a grand total of.............. 6mm longer travel...

KyoshoKev

06-30-2004, 09:14 AM

the difference.. the K3 shock bodies are 4mm longer than the K2 shock bodies.. and the shock shafts are 2mm longer than the k2 shock shafts.. for a grand total of.............. 6mm longer travel...

thanks for all the newbie info... oldskool and dgrobe...

so how long should the K3 shock body be?

if i was to measure it... from the top of the body (b4 the cap) to the bottom of the shock body... how long does the K3 shocks measure...

i bought a set off ebay... i'm not sure if they are K2 or K3 shocks :rolleyes:

dgrobe2112

06-30-2004, 09:48 AM

i dont know.. i think the K2 shocks are better.. the extra long travel of the K3.. people been having dogbone poppin out issues.. i will look into it.. and see if i can find out for you...

KanaiDude

06-30-2004, 11:52 AM

I would think with the extra travel you would have more "bounce" type issues with the suspension? My rear seems to bounce a little would this be the shock piston, go to a smaller hole maybe?

Have you all been to the japan kyosho websight and seen the new 777 movie? I don't have a link srry...

dgrobe2112

06-30-2004, 12:55 PM

more bounce.. i dont know.. could be your oils.. what oils are you running.. stay with the standard white pistons.. those are the best.. i beleive they are 1.4mm.. you could run thicker oil.. that would give less bounce.. extra travel gives more droop.. which mean.. better over the bumpy sections..

KanaiDude

06-30-2004, 01:18 PM

I actually have my droop screws raising my rear arms a few mm's, is this bad, could this cause more bounce then letting them extend all the way? I'm using AE 60 front and 40 rear.

dgrobe2112

06-30-2004, 04:42 PM

setup is good.. i dotn know bout the K3.. i know that everyone i seen running has their droop screws either taken out.. or run them all the way up.. full droop.. i beleive they use them on a smooth track surface.. to actually lower the car some.. sorta like a shock limiter.. i have even seen some guys dremel the wings on the chassis.. where the droop screws hit.. to get more down travel.. that also helps in landing.. longer travel.. could help in bottoming out..

OldskoolGT

07-01-2004, 12:00 AM

KyoshoKev,

A K2 rear shockbody (without the cap on) is 55 mm in length. So if your shock bodies are longer than that, you have K3 shocks.

Limiting the rear droop too much could cause bounciness in the rear, as well as too much anti-squat, and using CVAs or dogbones instead of universals. Last weekend I was running nearly full droop on my K3 (which is a stunning amount of droop) and the rear end was not bouncy at all, while the track was quite rough.