Team Losi Triple-X Brian Kinwald Edition 2 [Archive]

StevePond

09-12-2003, 03:44 PM

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/teamlosi/XXX_BK2_body.jpg

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/teamlosi/XXX_BK2_chassis.jpg

The new Kinwald Edition 2 or (BK2) is essentially a Triple-X buggy, but several changes have been made to the suspension arms and differential. The BK2 features all of the normal upgrades you would expect on a Kinwald Edition— titanium turnbuckles, graphite suspension and chassis components, threaded-bodied shocks and a set of red-compound racing slicks.

Special Features

- Transmission sits nearly 150-thousandths lower, which lowers the center-of-gravity.
- Wider differential works for corners
- Variable length suspension arms allow critical roll-center adjustments.
- Titanium-nitride hinge pins and shock shafts.
- Aluminum shock adjuster nuts with o-ring seal to prevent
- Kevlar spur gear
- New more aggressive body with cooling vents.

Part# LosA0030 Price $409.99

ernie ball

09-12-2003, 05:03 PM

im just wondering when this is coming out. i want to get a buggy and the new updates look like they will be worth the wait. also, will it have the blue plastic or the black. the black looks a lot better in my opinion

Racer Rob

09-12-2003, 05:20 PM

Yep hope they keep it just like the picture. It looks nice and clean without all the different colored parts.

wcoyote_racer

09-12-2003, 05:35 PM

November '03 so the losi site says.

FlyingFINN

09-12-2003, 09:28 PM

Will I be able to convert my xxxke to this or would it be easier to just buy the kit?

JEEL

09-13-2003, 09:16 AM

Nice, now where is the Francis 2?

ApriliaRacer

09-13-2003, 09:29 AM

Ti-nitride coated hinge pins?

I'm not sure these will really provide any benefit over time. Ti-Nitride is a coating which can be worn away or scratched.

The coating well wear well for things like the shock shafts, but those "ride" through rubber "O" rings which is soft and won't typically scratch or scrub the Ti coating.

The hinge pin would have the hard "plastic" rubbing on it and I believe that after a some runs the Ti-Nitride coating would be "rubbed' down, providing benefit for a short period of time.

I could be wrong, but thats my observation based on how Ti Nitride coating is used and not used on motorcycles.

wcoyote_racer

09-18-2003, 01:06 PM

Well going by the price setup on the XXX-4 G+ the car should be about the same price as the original Kinwald Edition. About $239-$249 on the street.

xray

09-19-2003, 02:00 AM

I wonder how cheap the plain KE will be to get rid of stock.

cartmen34

09-19-2003, 03:20 PM

I wouldn't worry to much about running out and selling your old losi just yet.

I just bought a new KE and I'm not about to run out and buy one of these when they come out. I'll just buy the new suspension arms and hub carriers when they are released. I doubt I'll get the new tranny. I don't think the tranny will shave that much time off your laps. I think the real gain will come from the adjustability of the new arms and carriers. And I don't think the Ti-coated pins will do that much. As long as your suspension is already free and moving smoothly, these won't make it any more free. It seems that it's mostly for the bling factor.

What I'd really like to see is Losi and AE move away from the ball-cup thing. I'd like to see bolt-on ends, similar to what you'd find on the bottom of shocks, or on lot's of japanese designed cars. I think that it'd keep you from wearing out the ball cups just from removing them to make adjustments and snapping them back into place.

jdm3849

09-19-2003, 11:13 PM

Popped off ballcups save your car. If the ballcups did not pop off in a crash the energy would come to a dead end somewhere and break the part. Btw, the pieces you are talking about are called captured rod ends. I beleive losi was smart and put this kit out at a good time.

xray

09-21-2003, 02:27 AM

Originally posted by cartmen34

What I'd really like to see is Losi and AE move away from the ball-cup thing. I'd like to see bolt-on ends, similar to what you'd find on the bottom of shocks, or on lot's of japanese designed cars. I think that it'd keep you from wearing out the ball cups just from removing them to make adjustments and snapping them back into place.

It's strange that captured ball ends are not standards, but kingpins are. I replaced (in the past) all the ball cups with dubro ball ends and never, ever, ever had a DNF in a race. It seems we are moving backwards in time.

xray

09-21-2003, 02:29 AM

Originally posted by jdm3849
Popped off ballcups save your car. If the ballcups did not pop off in a crash the energy would come to a dead end somewhere and break the part. Btw, the pieces you are talking about are called captured rod ends. I beleive losi was smart and put this kit out at a good time.

This is sort of true. However, unless you are team driver and can replace your ball cups every race, you have to go with something a little more reliable.

BTW, most of the time ballcups pop off after a jump. At leas the vertical end should be a captured ball link.

ic0nn

09-22-2003, 11:36 PM

i'm glad losi came out with an updated XXX buggy. IMO i'd rather buy a options included XXX than a standard AE B4.

just a knit picking question. i was looking at the losi website, are they gonna leave the gear case that ugly light grey color? http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2003pics/bk2/rear_sus.jpg

looks very strange like as it is right now. i hope it can be dyed black. anyways, good job losi :D. gonna keep this one in mind for X mas season.

cwginkc

09-23-2003, 07:31 PM

Losi used that gray plastic for their XX (XX tranny, not XX buggy) transmission many years ago. I didn't mind the color, but it was really incompatible with motor spray. A little overspray from blasting your motor when it was still in the vehicle would shatter the tranny case.

ic0nn

09-23-2003, 11:18 PM

that doesnt sound good :(. why dont they spec a different material for the tranny case?

rschwartz

09-24-2003, 01:20 PM

The grey tranmission case that you see is the prototype made out of builders clay and not the finished piece, I have been told that it will be black when the car is released.

Racer Rob

09-28-2003, 03:08 PM

I am glad to see they are releasing it as a full option kit. Thanks Losi! :D

fla-losi

10-14-2003, 02:12 PM

I have been thinking of buying the xxxke.Maybe i should wait till the bk2 is out and get that instead????-- Running in stock,would a hellfire rs24,,monster horsepower pro,,or a p2k2 pro be better.I run a xxx-t now in stock with the monster pro,,with 17/86.also have a p2k2 pro i use in it. About 22/82 right to start with in the buggy?? thanks for any info...

XXX/TC3 Racer

11-02-2003, 08:18 PM

I need a new body for my XXX, and I wanna know when that body will be out? I have the origional body, and the phobia body. Also, what is that body really giving out, that is better than that of the phobia? It looks like the cooling vents are it, but it also looks like it is giving up a lil downforce..not that it matters, since the car is sideways most of the time anywayz..:D

-A. Swift

Laterilus

12-26-2003, 10:07 AM

hmmmmm.... I went to this thread assuming people have gotten this buggy already but I guess I'm the only one so far? Anywho, I noticed someone mentioned that the gray transmission case wasn't going to be in production. Well, my kit I just finished building has the gray transmission case so I guess losi stuck with this color. Secondly, if anyone else has purchased this buggy, I'm having a hard time dealing with the anti squat spacers. If I put them in as the instructions say to do, it binds my transmission by pushing up the inner hingepins into the outdrive cups. I removed them and everything seems to be fine now. I hope they aren't important because I cant see how they can work while installed. Anyone else have this problem? Outside of that small issue, I think the improvements look great. I can't wait to test it out on the track. As usual, losi always pays attention to those small details.

winning edge designs

01-14-2004, 08:38 PM

I assembled my car a while back, I noticed the grey trans case as well. They do this, i'm told, when they have two possiblities for the same car in production, to avoid confusion. Since the cases are very similar at a glance.........Not positive.

I didn't have a problem with the anti-squat spacers, but I did notice that it's possible to install the rear mount either way until you get to the trans install, :), then it only fits one way.

The car works excellent, it seems to have more forward traction and punch, as well as the added tuning options........The trans seems to be the bigger of the upgraded things as far as performance, to me.....Jim

losixxx213

01-14-2004, 10:54 PM

I've got three questions, will the xxxke still be competitive at club type races?(I don't want to buy the new kit for a little bit longer) Is the new tranny a direct fit or will I need other pieces to bolt it into my xxxke? Last thing, on a tight track that's rough and slick, should I postion my rear shocks in 4/inside config or 2/inside(I'm guessing most of you in here own or owned the kinwald edition)?

winning edge designs

01-15-2004, 11:07 PM

Losixxx213, i'd try the shocks in 2/inside, or 3/inside. If you need more rear traction try moving the rear hubs forward, it'll help a TON!

The XXXKE will still be a great buggy, it's still going to be about driving, preperation, tires, luck, etc.

The BK2 needs the rear pivot plate, arm mounts, arms, dogbones, hubs and trans all to work together. The geometry is very different and the dogbones are different lengths. Even the hubs have a different offset..........Jim

RustlerBoy

01-20-2004, 12:30 PM

Sup guys. I jsut switched from Associated to a XXX. I wil;l never go back!!! I love m new buggy. Bought the XXXBK brand new with 3 sets of tires, hit torque servo, Furaba radio, and a Cobra comm lathe for $200 bucks. Long live losi! Anyone got any ideas for what i sdhould upgrade first??

winning edge designs

01-20-2004, 09:57 PM

Rustlerboy, the only parts i've ever broken on my car are rear pivot block and ballcups. Get a trinity pivot block, or get some 1/2 inch long 4/40 flat heads and use mini nuts on top for the rear pivot block. This helps a TON and is far less expensive then the heavily overpriced Trinity parts.....You could also use one of the new J concepts(dot net) bodies on the way for the car, :)! It'll be out very soon and we'll have it up on the site asap......shameless plug, haha, Jim

Laterilus

01-21-2004, 05:27 AM

Good to see some folks posting in this forum now. Winning Edge designs, I found my problem with the anti-squat spacers. You had it right, I had my rear mount on backwards. No problems now. I've been having a great time racing this buggy at my local indoor track since I've gotten it. Are there any things you've done to the stock setup yet to help with your driving? I don't have much to compare to since this is the first buggy I've ever owned, but I've taken the wheel of a XXX, XX, and B4 and can notice small differences among them. I find that the BK2 in stock set up form seems to push an awful lot on power but has a tremendous amount of steering off power. I've gone to a lighter weight oil up front and messed around with some tire changes to a tire that has less traction in the rear to allow the rear to swing out a tad more for a tighter turning radius. Anyways, its been working. I'll post more as I get more used to the buggy, but it is pretty well set up straight from the instructions. Oh, and here is the paint job I sprayed on my buggy. Gotta love that new body style!
http://www.columbiathunder.com/nick/dscf0159.jpg

RustlerBoy

01-21-2004, 12:44 PM

Sweet paint man. I wish i could get someone to paint a body like that for me....

Laterilus

01-21-2004, 06:00 PM

Thanks for the compliment, but why can you not get someone to paint a body for you? Are there no racers in your area that paint bodies as well? You know you can also go online to places that will paint bodies for you let alone I always see some on ebay. I've done a few bodies for people on other forums and could do one for you if you were interested.

winning edge designs

01-21-2004, 09:26 PM

laterilus, I have done a few things differently for my driving style. I have silver front and pink rear springs, as well as 25 wt oil all around, with 56 pistons. I also run 2 degrees of anti-squat on low bite and 0 on high bite tracks. In fact for Very high traction tracks some racers run "pro-squat, or -1 or -2, etc. This is with a small washer under the rear mount and none under the front, but I haven't needed that yet(more on power steering).......Another trick is to run the diff a little tighter, this takes away turn in and add steering out of turns. Last, add some down travel in front, for on-power steering. That is run .030 less spacer inside the front shocks. This works the opposite of what most expect, leaving more room for travel, rather then llifting the tires contact as much.

Cool paint job, check out jconcepts and see some of our work, ttyl, Jim

RustlerBoy

01-22-2004, 09:11 PM

Ok, hjow much would u charge me? I am only 17 and dont have a ton o money, but, let me know. I really like the that body.....

AussieSam

01-24-2004, 12:21 AM

Can anyone tell me if the new XXX BK2 rear rims are the same as the XXX BK. i.e. are they interchangable.

winning edge designs

01-24-2004, 10:44 PM

Yes, the wheels/rims are the same front and rear. They changed the suspension geometry inside the wheels, but kept the wheel offsets, etc., the same.....Jim

AussieSam

01-24-2004, 10:50 PM

Cool... I was told that the rims were different, I would have had to buy a new set of rims to match my tyres.

winning edge designs

01-25-2004, 09:56 PM

They are the same, in fact even the B4 uses the same wheels now as the XXX and XXX BK2.............Jim

XXX/TC3 Racer

01-26-2004, 03:48 PM

hello all..long time no post.

So, what are the advantages to the new buggy? It looks to me like they didn't stick to the traditional kinwald theme. I mean, there are fewer "blue" parts to it. no front pivot plate, no blue motor plate..etc etc.. is this true?

Also, anyone seen the new pro-line wabash wheels for the 1/8 scale buggies? Would they fit the xxx?

-A. Swift

CraigS

02-23-2004, 05:32 PM

Hey all!! I am the proud owner of a brand new BK2. I went to the hobby shop to buy a B4 with the graphite upgrades, but they were out of B4s.
So, after talking to the owner and taking a browse though the R/C Car mag, I went with the BK2. I'm hoping I made a good decision.
Any tips on the assembly? It's the first car I've actually assembled myself. (I helped my father assemble my Ultima back in the 80's when I was 13. Now I'm 29 and about to get back into the hobby.)

Finally, where can I go to find some good paint masks?? Any websites that are recommended?

Thanks all!

winning edge designs

02-23-2004, 09:31 PM

XXX/TC3 Racer, TeamLosi went away from all the bling bling blue parts, I believe they did because alot of guys run red, or purple, or prefer black ,etc. Not positive though. On the 1/8th wheels, no they will only fit 1/8th cars, they won't fit the XXX buggy. TeamLosi does make a 5 spoke wheel that fits it, as well as white or the standard yellow wheels in dish designs.

CraigS, the main assembly tip I can give you is to read thru the entire instruction book rather then skipping that recommended step, as so many do!....It gives excellent tips, like pre-threading the screw holes in the composite material with the included tapping screw and assembly lube(white tube). Also pay attention to the diff and slipper adjustment, since a well balanced slipper and diff adjustment will lead to MUCH longer diff life. Some people complain about short diff life, but only those who have the slipper to tight and the diff to loose.

The BK2 is an awesome choice in a buggy, you'll really like it, but your B4 buddies won't, LOL......Jim

CraigS

02-25-2004, 10:55 AM

Ok.... why is it so quiet here??? Didn't anyone buy a KE2? Did I make a mistake in not getting the B4? Let me know there are more of us KE2 owners out there.

I'm about half-way through building the car. (I would be further, but I have a 1 month old baby at home that demands attention) So far the only problem I have is the screws for the front shock tower. How the hell are you supposed to tighten those things down all the way with that little 1/16 allen wrench??? I've got two tightened all the way down, but I am unable to get the other two down. I am stripping the heads of the screws, not to mention one bent wrench so far. Are there any alternatives?

I also need to know where I can get some ideas for painting the body. Any good sites for this?

Maybe I should go post in the B4 forum to get some relies. :)

winning edge designs

02-25-2004, 09:31 PM

As posted earlier, RE: "CraigS, the main assembly tip I can give you is to read thru the entire instruction book rather then skipping that recommended step, as so many do!....It gives excellent tips, like pre-threading the screw holes in the composite material with the included tapping screw and assembly lube(white tube)".

The second sentence explains a way to keep from stripping screws and bending allen wrenches.........You can also buy some good allen tools, like the ones TeamLosi makes, or any quality brand like them......Jim

Gutter Ball

02-28-2004, 02:17 AM

Got my BK2 ordered today! Will arrive at hobby shop next Friday...can't wait!!!

winning edge designs

02-28-2004, 10:13 PM

You'll dig the car, it's awesome. The trans and other changes made a definate improvement in the buggy! I'm not sold on the body though, but Jconcepts will fix that soon i'm sure.....Jconcepts dot net.........Jim

Gutter Ball

03-13-2004, 10:38 AM

I haven't raced the car yet, but I got it together. Let me say I was pretty disappointed at the overall finish of the car. Now I'm a Losi driver all the way (XXX-T, XXX-S, XXX, XXX-4), but this kit has got to be the worst one I've got.

I had to sand the front bottom bulkhead to get it flush with the chasis, sand the top front bulkhead so the brace would go across the hingepins. Lots of graphite on the arms to sand off. For some reason, my GP3300's don't fit properly in the battery slot (my rear pivot is on correctly) when the foam is in there. I just shaved 2/3 of the foam off, still very snug, but the batteries come out a bit easier. Seems the servo brace sticks out a tad too far and the battery slides under the tab, essentially locking the battery in there! I broke a shoe goo'ed battery pack apart trying to get it out. I never had this problem in my old XXXKE.

So I thought it was a fluke. I bought another one, same thing, had to sand and the battery still doesn't fit. I'll have to sand away part of the braces and hope it doesn't make it too weak. While I'm sure I'll like the car, I must say I was not impressed with the finish of it.

I'm mostly concerned about the batteries. Does anybody else have this problem?

AussieSam

03-13-2004, 03:40 PM

Hi,

I have had the same problem with the batteries on my BK2 and my BK although I beleive that my BK2 is a better finished car than my old BK. It required less sanding/filing and the kingpins were all the correct lengths.

I too had to file the servo brace and also had to file the battery bar because it was too long.

Cheers,
Sam.

Gutter Ball

03-14-2004, 12:24 AM

That did it the trick. Had to dremel the back part of the servo brace so it was totally flat and take a bit off just beside the screw holes. Now they're snug, but no more damaging the battery when I take it out. Can't wait to race these babies!!

winning edge designs

03-15-2004, 10:41 PM

Easy on the car guys, I've had the same problem. But after a little research I found the culprit, it should have been obvious to me right away but wasn't......The reason the older cars had a better battery fit is because the batteries were smaller then! 3000 mah cells are shorter/smaller then 3300's! The Chassis, servo plate, front pivot block, etc are all the exact same parts.

Whats amazing to me is the on-road guys still dump with the new 3300's, LOL.....I remember when 1700's were going to revolutionize the sport!!!Hahahahaha............Jim

Gutter Ball

03-16-2004, 11:28 AM

Naw, I was using the same 3300's for both cars. Perfect fit in the XXXKE, waaaay too snug in BK2. Even 2400's were hard to get out. I think it's a combination of the new rear pivot and a servo brace that's got a tad too much sticking out of it. Doesn't matter, a little dremelling and now it's good :cool:

I still say the overall finish wasn't as good as any of the other Losi kits I've bought. I shouldn't have to sand parts down so they fit right.

It'll be out for it's maiden run this weekend, got some B4's to beat.

eddiej

03-17-2004, 04:19 PM

I have a question about the bk2 I was thinking of getting it or the b4 to use my 4200 lehner basic motor with. I was just wondering how durable the buggy is, does it handle jumps well, will the drive train handle the bl power? or should I get a stadium truck instead I will be mostly bashing. thanks in advance.

winning edge designs

03-17-2004, 10:27 PM

eddie, the buggy will handle the power better then a truck, since the smaller tires and lighter weight use the same transmission and basic drivetrain parts............Of course i'll say go with the XXX platform, either BK, or BK2!.................Jim

Gutter Ball

03-21-2004, 10:57 PM

Had it out for it's first run today. It handles much better than my XXXKE! But it keeps flipping over on the double. I'll have to see what's going on. It seems I'm hitting the ramp too fast and the rear end isn't reacting quick enough so it flips over. Tried yellow and pink springs, same result. Hmmm....more tinkering! But it did well!

purplerides

03-23-2004, 12:38 PM

W.E.D.Jim hello , i haven't chatted in a long time , how are you doing , I just got the BK2. This is the first electric i've had in a long time. Never raced buggy or electric truck , in fact the last eletric buggy i had was a Kyosho Ultima i think it was like 1987 or 1988...LOL. I still racing gas truck XXXNT ofcourse. I don't get to race the 1/8th scaler often, home track doesn't race them. So several of my buds talked me into Mod. buggy after i have been busting the bubble for the last 8 - 10 years of racing gas trucks that batteries are for flashlights...LOL. Anyhow are race season starts in a couple of weeks in April (finally starting to get warm it was 50 deg. the other day) how do you like the stock set-up? The track i race on is very smooth hardpack but is slick esp. the first 4 - 6 weeks until a surface gets on it from racing. I't's got some large jumps but all have a smooth downside and don't take a lot to get over , there all smooth and built to perfection. None of us have raced the new buggy on it so were all guessing to a set-up. Any tips? I was planning going with the stock set-up and working off of that. The track will be slick any suggestions to leapfrog to in case i don't like the stock set-up. There's a pic. of the track on it's website check it out. http://www.familyhobbiesraceway.com/

Laterilus

03-29-2004, 03:00 AM

Man, you join enough forums and you end up forgetting to visit some once in awhile! Hey folks, good to see others have started discussing this hella awesome buggy.
W.E.D., way back when I was talking about my "on power pushing problems" I had assembled the buggy incorrectly with the variable length arms as well besides the whole anti-squat problem I had! Uncharacteristic of me, I usually follow building instructions pretty well... especially from Losi. When I first put together the buggy, I had the front hingepins in the outer hole for the a-arms and inner hole for the hubs and the rear was set up in the stock position. LOL. How that mess up on the front escaped my attention for a month is beyond me. Of course it would push with such a wide stance on a small, tight indoor course. Once I correctly set up the buggy as the instructions said, this thing has been running great. I've gone back to the 25wt oil all around and the only changes I have right now is the shock position (I like my suspension to be more upright than what Losi suggests) and I prefer the BK bar tires over the X-2000s... but that suits my track better. BTW, I read through all of your suggested tips from your post back in early Jan. Wow. I thought I was meticulous with my racing. I didn't understand half of what you said! There are only a few setup changes I can make to a car and actually notice a difference. Adding and removing shims and spacers in various places on a car is beyond me. I wasn't even sure the exact location of the places you mentioned to add shims. lol. You'll have to go over that one again. Maybe add some pics?

Purplerides, like you, I am pumped for the start of the new summer race season. I've been racing stock all winter at a few different small indoor courses and I can't wait to see this buggy fly with a mod in it. Just from running stock motors, I'd say Losi as usual gives a great starting point to build from. Like I said, I only changed a couple of things, but they suit my personal driving style better. I think the buggy is extremely easy to drive from the instruction set up.

cr125rider

03-30-2004, 01:17 PM

How does the Bk2 stand up to the b4?

Laterilus

03-31-2004, 03:49 PM

It stands up just fine depending on who is driving. Both buggies are quite capable and don't hinder the skill level of the driver. After driving them both, I honestly don't think there is much difference between the two. I chose the Losi simply because all of the sweet hopups came in the box as opposed to having to buy the graphite package for the associated separately and I can't stand associated shocks.

purplerides

04-05-2004, 09:19 PM

well season opener got rained out , plus temp. dropped into the high 30's , maybe next week it will stop raining and get warmer like it's supposed to be.

LosiRacerX

04-11-2004, 11:44 AM

my bk2 gets ordered tomarrow!!!!! i cant wait to get it, i have the first xxx so i think this is gonna be a whole new learning experinice since ive only been driven 2 yrs, i am so ready for off-road but it dont start till the end of may(stupid nebraska weather)

LosiRacerX

04-21-2004, 08:32 PM

could i get any advice for setups on this buggy, 1 more day till its here yessssssssssssssssssssssss

microrcdude

04-24-2004, 12:56 PM

try the out of the box setup. Then, make small ajustments until it's how you like it.

LosiRacerX

04-25-2004, 11:42 AM

ive heard the rear kit tires arent the greatest for my track (slippery and rough) what would you guys suggest, also from wut ive read i should run dog bones and the wide pivot points on the car tell me anything else please

Laterilus

04-26-2004, 12:24 AM

I've used the x-2000's (kit tires) on dry/dusty, rough tracks and they seem to do alright. I bought some m3 compound bowties with trinity's bomb one inserts and they seem to hook up really nice for those conditions. Either way, you really need to just control your throttle inputs while driving. There are no tires that will work perfectly for poor track conditions.

tarvymoto

04-26-2004, 08:09 PM

anyone know where the I can find the best price online for losi kits....looking for a BK2 and a XXX4 G+

Casper

04-27-2004, 04:00 PM

Try calling Ultimate hobbies (714)921-0424. They always have great deals. The usually sell under the MAP so you need to call them to get the lowest price. They will ship anywhere in the US.

4W Guy

05-07-2004, 10:06 PM

I ordered the new GenII universal drive set to try. My problem is that I can't figure out how to connect the two halves together. First I ordered the two parts listed on the new parts section of the Losi page. Then when they came in at the LHS, I found that I needed to order something else in order to connect them together. My problem is that I can't figure out how to get the lattle connector attached to the axle. Has anyone used these before? Any help would be great. Right now I have the CVDs installed but I want to try the universals.

winning edge designs

05-07-2004, 10:41 PM

4wguy, there is a tool that helps "pop" the plastic ears over the drive pins. It looks like a turnbuckles tool on one end and will help you with assembly a bunch. Just be sure to only use the minimum force needed to get the plastic ear over the pin end. The roll pin is inserted with a plier, or bench vise thru the metal axle before assembling the dogbone/drive cup unit.........Jim

Casper

05-08-2004, 12:12 PM

Here is how you install dog bones. This is from the XXXNT adam drake kit where they install dog bones as standard equipment.

http://www.teamlosi.com/ManualsJPG/xxxnt_AD/22.jpg

Othern then axles and bones you also need A-3014 universal pivot to install in the axles for the dog bones.

Laterilus

05-08-2004, 11:00 PM

To me, a dogbone is a dogbone. It doesn't matter if it is cvds, universals, or normal dogbones.... as long as they work. I am still using the "stock" MIP cvds that came with the kit. I noticed losi released their universals for the buggy, but I didn't really understand why. Can anyone explain how they would cause the buggy to handle differently?
Oh, btw, I've been racing mod buggy at my local track now for the past few weeks with one of the new Orion Revolution motors. man, these things haul. Best mod motor I've used yet. I've never run mods in buggies before I've been pleasantly surprised by how well they handle... even on a really rough track.

4W Guy

05-08-2004, 11:04 PM

Thanks for the link to the assembly link. I already have the pivots. My problem was figuring out how to insert them into the plastic piece. I thought I was doing something wrong and I wasn't sure how far it was safe to bend the plastic piece to insert the pivot.

Casper

05-09-2004, 12:28 AM

4W Guy--The process is a lot easier with the losi tool you should have gotten with your kit. I have yet to break a yok by installing it over a pin during assembly but that surely does not mean it cannot be done. I have seen yokes break under use though.

Laterilus -- Different dog bones are like different shock oil. The way the CVD works with all it's metal parts allow it to "lock up" under acceleration more then the dog bones. The dog bones to not "lock up" as much as the CVD's and with the plastic yokes they "give" a little more under accleration and loading in bumps. This is one of those changes you might not feel until you become a little more advanced in the car tuning. Another way of look at it is, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I ran slidders on my XXX car for a really long time. They were light for stock racing and never wore out! I could really give a hoot how the handled. My car worked really well so I was not going to change it. In defense of the BK2 dog bones I did feel I gained a little more traction when using the bones over the CVD's. It was not a night and day thing though!

winning edge designs

05-09-2004, 08:53 AM

Laterilus, TeamLosi team drivers say CVD's for low bite and smooth conditions for thier added forward traction. Use dogbones for high bite, or rough tracks. Of course, alot of how the feel, or effect handling will be determined by your other set-up choices. but basically in my testing the CVD's act like added anti-squat, but dogbones act like less....Mostly personal preference......Jim

4W Guy

05-09-2004, 05:15 PM

:) I used the tool shown in the instruction sheet. It took a little pressure but it did finally go in. The only problem now is that the joint is only loose on one axis. The axle side swings freely but the dogbone side is very tight. I tried a drop of bearing oil but that didn't help.

My local track is fairly bumpy right now. I had seen where the universal was recommended over the CVD for my type of track, so I decided to try them.

winning edge designs

05-09-2004, 10:14 PM

4w guy, they will free up after a couple of runs and shouldn't give you any trouble....Jim

4W Guy

05-09-2004, 11:01 PM

That's good to know. I just completed assembling the car. Hopefully will get to run this weekend. We have been rained out the last two weeks. I am going to try the CVDs first then switch to the universals to see which I like better.

Laterilus

05-09-2004, 11:51 PM

WED and Casper: If I am not mistaken, it sounds as if you guys are contradicting each other. lol. According to Casper, when traction is low, you don't want CVDs since they give close to 'instant' acceleration and the yokes would provide a slight 'give'.... however, WED mentions that low traction situation would call for CVDs since they provide much forward traction. Am I reading this correctly or am I missing something? When it comes down to these minute details, it is just over my head. I believe I tune my car very well and I do feel changes in the car when things are adjusted, but I don't feel like I'd notice a change from CVDs to losi universals. Believe me, I'm honestly good at this. I'm usually number 1 or 2 in mod buggy at my local tracks and I frequently race with current and former ROAR regional champions at my track that would back me up. My whole point is that there is new, then there is old. I like my drivetrain to be running as smooth as possible... it doesn't make any difference if it is cvds or losi universals. I just don't like it when the pin starts widening the hole on the cvd bone or yoke on the losi universal. I like the 'instant' acceleration feel to the car and I think I get that with both types of dog bones as long as they are new.

winning edge designs

05-10-2004, 09:44 PM

Laterilus, it's not really a contradiction, because alot of what happens is determined by other factors. For me they work as stated, more forward bite from CVD's, etc. But it's also possible a car with alot of anti-squat and CVD's might overpower the tires on a loose track. Meaning even though it would have a higher limit of available traction, when it did break loose it would be more violent, seeming harder to drive!(feeling like less traction).......When you can try Sliders, CVD's and Universals back to back with no other changes, there is a difference, even though it wouldn't be my first tuning option, usually.........Jim

Pro3/nmt105

05-15-2004, 11:17 PM

I've had mine for about 5 months, forgot about the vehical forums. I have no idea what you guys are talking about with the fit and finish issues. I didnt have to sand a single part and there was absolutely no binding. Mabey they have developed some quality issues since I bought the kit or before I bought the kit. The only part that didnt fit pefectly was the front pivot plate. It was hard to get it to line up perfectly with the chassi, there was a little gap between the two closest to the chassi. With a little patience slowly tightening the screws the gap was nearly gone. After running the car a few times it wore in, I guess you could say, and I could tighten it so that there was no gap.

As for setup, I switched to 27wt oil all round. I'm running the stock internal spacers. I tried internal spacers in the rear shocks and I lost alot of sidebite. I switched to silver springs up front and pink springs in the rear. The rear shocks are in the upper outside hole and inner lower hole (sidebite.) The front shocks are in the upper outside hole (steering) and middle lower hole. I moved the spacers above the front knuckles and moved both spacers behind the rear hubs for the shortest possible wheelbase and more steering. I run 1 degree of camber all round and a little tow out for steering. I've tried running zero rear antisquat, the sidebite was great but I had trouble making it over the jumps so I went back to one degree.

Gutter Ball

05-18-2004, 09:07 PM

As I said, these two BK2's were the first Losi kits that came that way. But it doesn't matter, I love the buggies!

They were dialed for indoor carpet racing, so for outdoor, I just thought switching tires would be ideal :cool: Hahaha, no way!

The best way to describe my problem is that it "lawn darts" off the jumps. It goes up, then back down nose first (doesn't matter if I hold the throttle or not and it does it for almost every jump). The B4's are going over them nice.

Sooo, I'm not sure how to fix this. I tried going to a softer spring (went from pink to yellow) same thing. I think going heavier would make it worse? I'm thinking I should go to a heavier oil in the rear. I'm currently using 32.5, maybe try 40? Shock tower location change? Any ideas?

There are only 2 of us running Losi's, me and my pitmate! So we CAN'T lose to all them AE guys. Thanks in advance!

4W Guy

05-23-2004, 03:36 PM

I haven't seen this. Try heavier oil in front, lighter in back. This helped my XXX-4 last year.

cabbynate

05-27-2004, 12:35 PM

Gutter Ball

05-28-2004, 07:49 AM

Okay, I just put a lighter oil in the back (25). Hopefully that'll do it. If not, heavier oil in the front and then I'll change the piston. Thanks for the tips :cool:

cabbynate

05-28-2004, 10:01 AM

Okay, I just put a lighter oil in the back (25). Hopefully that'll do it. If not, heavier oil in the front and then I'll change the piston. Thanks for the tips :cool:

WOW!!!!!!!!
Slow down there tiger!!!!! :) Maybe try going back to kit at 30 wt all the way around and then go to the #57 pistons (black) up front if going lighter in the rear doesn't work. Thicker oil & smaller piston up front= no stearing. :eek: :(

Gutter Ball

05-28-2004, 06:09 PM

Lol, okay okay, I'll slow down a bit :) But having all them AE guys finish ahead of me (yup, this lawndart finished dead LAST) gets me irked. Especially the guy that won, it was the first time he EVER drove a buggy! We're good buds though, so B4 vs BK2 friendly rivalry. He smoked me all year with his T4 when we raced indoor too.

Anyway, I'll print out what you recommend and take it to the track with me this weekend. Hopefully I'll be a soaring arrow and not a lawndart :rolleyes: :p

cabbynate

05-28-2004, 06:16 PM

Cool,
Just going to the #57 pistons up front will make a big difference in how the buggy jumps. Good luck!!!!!!

Gutter Ball

05-30-2004, 08:48 PM

The lighter oil in the back did it, thanks folks! :p It jumped much better, but the landings were a bit rough (it bounced, but only once). No more Losi lawndart! I was still 10 seconds behind the top B4 though...I'll get him :cool:

dub-c

07-19-2004, 01:08 AM

I have a JRX-Pro that I bought in 1991. I recently got back into RC and bought a TC3 and mini-t. The JRX-Pro was at my parents house and I dug it up last week. The wheels on it are all scratched and torn up as well as having bald tires. So, will the wheels from the XXX (regular or BK or BK2, not sure if they're the same) fit the JRX-Pro? It's a very random question, but thanks if anyone can help me out. I intend on heading to the lhs when I get back home, but thought someone on the boards might be able to help.

Casper

07-19-2004, 01:21 AM

The front wheels will not work. You may be able to find some old wheels and tires on ebay or AE front wheels should work. The XXX wheels should fit on the JRX-Pro but you might need to use button head screws to attach the bottom of the rear shocks. We needed to do that to the XX to run the new XXX wheels that are wider inboard. If you can find some of the older "narrow" XX wheels they will fit right on.

winning edge designs

07-19-2004, 11:43 PM

dub-c, as casper said, the newer generation uses a hub designed to hold a wheel without bearings, the earlier style used bearings in the wheel itself. The rears will work with some minor mods though........Jim

LosiRacerX

08-25-2004, 08:04 PM

on tight track do you guys have steering problems, cuz man i do, im tryin to get rid of my bk2 and get me a b4 they dominant at our track and have plenty of left over steering, im not a losiracer anymore sold my xxx-s and bought a tc3 im tryin to sell it to make enough money for a carpet knife 3.2

Casper

08-26-2004, 10:55 AM

I can get plenty of steering out of my XXXBK2. Move the bottom of the front shocks in, shorten the front camber link, shorten the rear camber link, move the front hubs fwd. There are lots of things you can do to make the car handle better for you track conditions.

winning edge designs

08-26-2004, 08:23 PM

Losiracerx, the thing about racing R/C cars and which dominates, etc. is most club racers can only go by what the fast guy/s at thier own track use. In the almost 20 years i've been racing, i've seen the fastest guys switch brands and win with either. It's more about set-up, tires, practice, etc. It's a fact that one brand may favor a certain type of track ocassionally, or certain drivers have a feel/preference, but the difference is very small, since all competitive kits are very adjustable. I have always switched back to TeamLosi over the years, since they seem to be much more forgiving and aren't as aggressive, which some interpret as "less steering". I challenge you to run on any high bite track and see if you turn faster, more consistant laps with a B4 or a XXX BK2!

I've found also over the years when someone wants to switch it's mostly because they haven't done well lately and want it to be thier cars fault. In actuality a fresh kit is always a little faster, but, this is even if you stay with the same brand......Good luck either way, let us know how it goes, Jim

Casper

08-26-2004, 08:28 PM

Well put Jim!!!! :)

LosiRacerX

08-26-2004, 09:55 PM

i had to put my front camber links as long as possible, and that gave my alot more steering, not even the top guys at our track can get the bk2s to work, they worked well at the stock off-road nationals, but at our track they dont work well

winning edge designs

08-27-2004, 09:32 PM

LosiracerX, From my experience, making the camber link longer, usually results in more traction when the chassis is flat and less when it rolls during hard cornering, the more the roll, the more dramatic the change(or loss of traction). This will make the car feel like it steers more initially, but it will actually lose some steering thru the middle of the turn, compared to a shorter link. Same for the rear camber links. Of course bumps and jumps can alter these effects as well, so this is only a general rule. On my BK2, I run the front camber link in #3, with two washers and B outside, my rear camber link is in #3 and B, usually. Either way you've already decided you'll be faster with a different car, so i'll wish you luck!......Jim

mardigan

08-31-2004, 03:57 PM

It's not the car. Just because you haven't found the setup, tires, driving style or whatever does not mean the car won't work on your track. I guarantee someone like Kinwald would have the thing dialed in no time. It's all about knowing your vehicle, whatever you drive.

microrcdude

08-31-2004, 07:21 PM

exactly. cavereli has the same set-up everywhere he goes. he just practices until it feels right to his liking. He also uses the tracks hottest tires. No wonder hes world champ

losifreak2004

09-01-2004, 11:46 AM

Just stopping in to say hi! (and add this thread to my list of subscribed threads)

Casper

09-01-2004, 12:03 PM

Hi Aaron!

XXX/TC3 Racer

09-01-2004, 01:18 PM

I wanna see all your bodies, sicne I jsut got my 4th body yesterday, but it's not the phobia bod, it's the ke2 bod. How do I cut the vents out on the sides, and what could I use to place behind it..I wanna have like a wire grill for it..mesh like, and paint it to go wit a theme (yet to be determined, though I got waay too many ideas) to be painted on the car. Also, lemme see your pics of these bods..I gotta get the feel for what this bod can handle. Also, can anyone look in the other xxx thread below this one, and help me wit my questions? thanks a whole lot..keep xxx'in!!!

-A. Swift

winning edge designs

09-02-2004, 07:43 AM

-A. swift, check out our Illuzion line at J Concepts dot net, we have a bunch of new bodies, including one for the XXX/BK2 and more on the way....shameless plug, but I really believe we're doing some things others aren't willing to try, especially with our new Monster truck and 1/8th bodies. Our XXX buggy body is smooth and flowing, no big holes are cutouts that may effect handling. The stock body is pretty cool, but it's nice to have options too.....Thanks, Jim(W.E.D.)

nate johnston

10-15-2004, 12:35 AM

I think matt chambers won the stock nats with the bk2! must be something good about it! Sounds like we need more owners of the bk2 to post on this thread!

Casper

10-15-2004, 02:07 AM

We need more people to ask questions! :p

Casper

10-15-2004, 02:10 AM

he is leaving now because he needs to go service his wife! :D

(I will be back to answer any or all of your questions tomorrow.) ;)

losifreak2004

10-15-2004, 03:52 AM

Uhh...hahaha

I'm here too, I promise!

winning edge designs

10-15-2004, 10:42 PM

The only bad thing about the BK2 is people run it and go, WOW.....no need to ask many questions!

They are all on the B4 threads asking away.....LOL........Jim

losifreak2004

10-16-2004, 04:15 AM

Hahaha

hokieman1990

11-30-2004, 09:50 PM

Does the seperate phobia body come pre painted or do u have 2 paint it?
Also where can u buy a pre-painted TrippleX body?

winning edge designs

11-30-2004, 09:58 PM

hokieman, check out J Concepts.net, we manufacture and sell all types of bodies and I paint, I have a link off of our site as well. Let me know if I can help you out. There is a gallery there as well.....Jim

Casper

11-30-2004, 10:59 PM

The phobia body comes clear. I am not aware of any XXX bodies that come prepainted. Losi does not offer one. Jim does some awsome work. Check it out.

winning edge designs

12-01-2004, 07:19 AM

Thanks Casper! Our new Illuzion XXX is just an improvment on our previous Phobia sold under the TeamLosi/Horizon brand name........We thought the newest BK2 body needed a little improvement, although some like it, I thought it was a little boxy. Besides having a choice is always nice. We also have a new front XXX wing coming out soon, as well as a new XXXT body...........Always working, :), Jim

Casper

12-01-2004, 10:53 AM

Jim-- The phobia body has been my favorite so far. I did not even paint the BK2 body. I sold it with my old kit and bought another phobia! ;) I am looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the MF2 body. It it works as well as the kit body I would love to have something a little more appealing if you know what I mean! :rolleyes:

Jim Baia

12-01-2004, 07:08 PM

on tight track do you guys have steering problems, cuz man i do, im tryin to get rid of my bk2 and get me a b43

I will trade you my B4 for your BK2

let me know..

liquidtension@adelphia.net

hokieman1990

12-01-2004, 08:37 PM

Does the TripleX body fit on the Traxxas Bandit?

Casper

12-01-2004, 09:40 PM

I would not think so. The Bandit chassis is wider toward the front of the car.

winning edge designs

12-01-2004, 10:32 PM

Casper, the limited testing we've done with the new XXXT Illuzion has proven it to be an excellent performer. It has actually beaten the MF2 body on tracks with big jumps, since it seems to get less air underneath it during flight. Really big difference on windy days or outdoor tracks obviously. We may lose a little rear bite in high speed turns, but we should also gain a little top speed it's really too close to be objective so far to tell the truth though, ;)......Jim

Casper

12-01-2004, 10:36 PM

The big thing about the MF2 body was the extra steering. As long as you do not give that up and it looks better I am game to try one! :)

winning edge designs

12-03-2004, 05:52 PM

Woah, you felt extra steering, I have heard that, but in my opinion it seemed more locked in, opposite. I think alot of it has to do with what your looking at while you drive too though, so it's fairly subjective to opinion. The front of ours has only a few small changes from the stock MF2, most are from the windshield back, so we're butta', haha.......Jim

Casper

12-03-2004, 06:01 PM

I actually never ran the two bodies back to back. I have two of my buddies that did that though and both felt more steering and more stability. I suppose I need to do "the test" myself one of these days but they were both top notch racers so I took there word for it. LOL

losifreak2004

12-03-2004, 07:56 PM

The biggest difference was how stable to truck was, not really a difference in steering. It's WAY more stable through high speed corners.

Cutting the holes out behind the front shock tower did give the truck a little more high-speed turn-in but that's really it.

winning edge designs

12-04-2004, 08:36 PM

I've been finding that alot of the differences in "feeling" on the track are fairly subjective, usually based on what we expect by visually looking a body over before we ever run it. We're working on some methods to determine actual data for downforce, turbulance, drag, etc. By using multiple digital scales and A tunnel designed tool that supports a vehicle in a jet stream with wind speeds of 5-45 mph(practicle use speeds). Once the system is perfected we'll have a real idea of what to expect, rather then speculation that turns into "fact" without data.

I've even tried holding a body out of a moving car at speeds like we race at as well, but it's inconclusive. It's pretty hard to feel any real downforce until about 15 mph or more, so a much better method is needed.............we'll see how it goes, Jim, J Concepts, Winning Edge Designs

losifreak2004

12-04-2004, 08:52 PM

I ran the Fury and the J-Lo body back to back and it made a big difference on my truck, both in "feel" and on the stopwatch.

RCBASHERFREAK50

03-11-2005, 11:18 PM

heres my new beauty...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/Pimpedoutxbox002/NCRC036.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/Pimpedoutxbox002/NCRC036.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/Pimpedoutxbox002/NCRC034.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/Pimpedoutxbox002/NCRC033.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/Pimpedoutxbox002/NCRC032.jpg

Casper

03-12-2005, 02:33 AM

Nice car. Intersting tire choice. IFMAR pins and diamond fronts?

winning edge designs

03-13-2005, 09:14 PM

Just when I was wondering if this thread was still alive?

Nice ride, hope your having fun, that is what it's ALL about!.............Jim

RCBASHERFREAK50

03-13-2005, 11:14 PM

ya, i just raced it and got 4th in the 4wd electrics b/c there were only 2 mod buggies..me and another guy.....it was great

Mad Bout Aus

03-16-2005, 06:04 AM

Hey guys :) I don't usually visit this page but I was wondering if Losi make a 4wd? I've got a Tamiya Gravel Hound at the moment, but sort-of lookin for something a bit more "entry level". Any thoughts?

winning edge designs

03-16-2005, 08:07 AM

mad about, look in this months car action, I saw the TeamLosi XXX4 in there for $199 for the base kit..........A real bargain if your not looking for the fully loaded racing version!....................Jim

losiguy1090

03-19-2005, 08:07 AM

Hey guys, whats up? I just bought a used BK2 and this morning I tore apart the shocks to put in some new oil. Back had 56 pistons[what I was gonna run] but the front had orangish/peachish colored pistons. Arent these 55's?

Casper

03-19-2005, 09:05 AM

Yes the orange is 55.

Blue=54
Orange=55
red/pink=56
black=57
natural/white=60

losiguy1090

03-19-2005, 10:17 AM

Thanks Casper. I'm running Drake's SoCal setup w/ Pinks in the rear, orange in the front, 30 WT all around, stock antisquat and I'm gonna put 57's in the front. Oh yeah, I'm also running no limiters in the rear.

How's that sound?

winning edge designs

03-20-2005, 01:21 PM

Losiguy, I run 56's all around with 25 front and 27.5 rear oil. The 30 wt will work to slow the cars reaction down and make it easier to drive, if the track is very smooth, but may be too heavy if the track has any choppy sections, or low traction. Imo, if you use 57's up front, i'd definately run the 25 wt or lighter up front......But, of course i'm going by what works best here........Jim

losiguy1090

03-20-2005, 04:06 PM

I run mostly on loose tracks in the outdoor season. I just put in 30 because; 1, thats the lowest weight I have, and 2, the track I race on in the winter is real high bite. But when outdoor season comes around, I'm gonna throw in some 25 all around w/ 57's up front.

winning edge designs

03-20-2005, 09:27 PM

Cool, that sounds like a solid plan to me!.............Good luck!........:), Jim

Casper

03-20-2005, 11:05 PM

Try the blue buggy front springs. They are about the same spring rate as the orange but there shorter length make them more progressive. The blue buggy front spring is a really hot setup on the MF2.

losiguy1090

03-21-2005, 07:43 AM

Thanks for all your help guys.

I have one more question though, do you think an equalizing tray is needed? d

winning edge designs

03-21-2005, 10:21 PM

Losiguy, at the on-road worlds we tried packs with and without trays, with and without dead shorting, with and without break in. Here is what we found...

Dead shorting made more punch, less runtime.

The trays made little if any difference, but I know they can't hurt.

New packs are far better for runtime then even ones with one use, every battery gained voltage and lost runtime with each use.

For off road I wouldn't be too worried about it, sticking to a routine of leaving them partially charged for storage, then discharging before use and letting them cool before a 5 amp or lower charge seems to be the most friendly method for battery life and performance. Repeak if runtime is close at the same 5 amps about 5 minutes before your race.............................jmo, Jim

losiguy1090

03-22-2005, 07:36 AM

Cool. Your advice just saved me from blowing 75 bucks on a Novak tray :eek:

Casper

03-22-2005, 11:04 AM

On this tray thing. I will admit that a tray is probably not required for every cycle of the battery but the pack will "unmatch" it self over time. One cells will discharge slower or faster then the rest and over time this will decrease the performance of your pack. Having a tray to equalize the cells every so often would be a good thing. I had some older packs that I started traying after about 3-4 months of use and they really perked up and I think it was because I was able to get all the cells back to the same starting point and the pack started to work as a unit better again. I am not saying this is not a required thing and there is probably no performance gained from doing it every cycle but every 5-10 runs you would probably see long term benefits.

losiguy1090

03-22-2005, 04:39 PM

Yeah, I was planning on buying one a lil later on down the road. I just wanna get her running first ;)

winning edge designs

03-23-2005, 11:08 AM

Casper is right, imo, it is good to have, but not required. I've found that No maintenance routine, or special device is as good as fresh batteries. So if your club racing and don't buy the latest version of batteries, we know there are dozens, then a tray is good to keep and use every couple weeks. $75 may be overboard though, LOL. I've had good luck with the $45.00 trays, they seem to put off the inevitable, which is new batteries.

Think of it this way, if individual cell performance is important, then shouldn't we charge them individually as well? Especially since none are exactly them same, even in a matched pack.

Anyway, Have you noticed the new 3700's are available. I'm getting some from Fusion batteries?.....I haven't even gotten any 3600's yet, LOL!.......:), Jim

losiguy1090

03-23-2005, 05:14 PM

What trays have you seen for less than the Novak one? Cuz I too think that 75 bucks is a lil rediculous.....

Epic is coming out w/ 3800s :eek:

winning edge designs

03-26-2005, 03:10 PM

Integy has one, Trinity, as do similar companies that may not be as main stream as Novak, or Trinity..........Jim

losiguy1090

03-27-2005, 07:47 AM

Thanks Jim.

Heres an update. My dad got a HUGE bonus from work, so he loaned me the money I needed to buy my electronics for my bk2 until I sell the NT since I have a race coming up.

Heres what I got;
Peak Vantage 11x2
Novak GTX
And I ordered some Factory Team Pro Match batteries online
So hopefully when I get back from vacation on Thursday, my batteries will be here so I can go to the track and practice for my race the following weekend :cool:

HAPPY EASTER! :)

winning edge designs

03-27-2005, 09:35 AM

Losiguy, sounds great for you! The only thing i'd change up is batteries...since I run Fusion stuff exclusivley after testing them from a local Fusion guy, :).

But I have heard good things about Pro Match too.
The Peak and Orion motors are the only ones to run other then brushless. Either that or maintenance constantly. I have intentionally left my 12x2 Orion Revolution motor in my BK2 until it slows down, since I got tired of looking at it and putting it back in. I'm on 40+ runs and it's still a rocket...................Jim

losiguy1090

03-27-2005, 09:51 AM

The ones that I got had pretty good numbers on em. And promatch was running an awesome deal on em[3 matched, asembled packs for 140]

GP3300s, AVG Voltage 1.175-1.179 per cell, 400-419 runtime.

winning edge designs

03-27-2005, 10:36 AM

Those will be great off road packs........

The Fusion batteries start at the club level, which is about 400-419 and 1.14+, so your packs have good voltage.

I use thier race level packs, which are 1.16+ and 421+......

I've been able to see thier top shelf stuff, but haven't bought any yet(not really needed), they are 1.19+ and 440, LOL..............................These are packs that some drivers from other companies used to finish races at the on road worlds, when they dumped with thier own teams packs.....:)..........The only drivers with that much or more runtime where a few of the Orion drivers, they had stuff that was set on KILL!

For off road it's more about voltage then runtime anyway, I use the 417 club packs I have in 4wd mod in my XXX4 and have plenty of time left with a 10x2...................Jim