HPI Nitro Rush Evo

[StevePond]

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/hpi/l-rushevo.jpg

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/hpi/rushevo.jpg

(HPI Press Release) HPI Racing is proud to announce the updated RTR Nitro Rush Evo! This "Evo" version of our popular Nitro Rush truck is packed with features designed to get new owners on the track faster and more conveniently than ever! With a more powerful engine, Roto Start System, prepainted body and more, this is the ideal RTR 2WD stadium truck for Nitro off-road fans!

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/hpi/rushevo_chassis.jpg

Preassembled on a strong 2.5mm thick black anodized 6061 aluminum chassis, the RTR Nitro Rush Evo also features a redesigned transmission case and all-new engine brace to improve chassis rigidity. Our HPI TX-2 radio, receiver and servos provide a reliable and trustworthy electronics package.

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/hpi/pt-15.jpg

The heart of the new and improved RTR Nitro Rush Evo is the brand new T-15 engine, providing more mid-range power and top end speed! A tall cast aluminum heatsink head on the T-15 keeps it cool and running smoothly, and the 2-needle carb allows owners to tune the engine precisely for their conditions. The T-15 uses true ABC construction for extra durability, and breathes through a large pre-oiled air filter and our aluminum header/composite tuned pipe combo - a great way to get tons of power to the ground! The included HPI Roto Start System lets the engine start up with push-button convenience! No more fumbling for a starter cord - just attach the glow plug igniter and Roto Start, hit the button and go!

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/hpi/rushevo_chassisbrace2.jpg

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/hpi/ruschevo_chassisbottom.jpg


Putting the power to the ground is a ball bearing-equipped durable 3-gear transmission featuring strong steel dogbones and a sealed gear diff. An adjustable slipper clutch is standard equipment, which helps reduce drivetrain stress. Oil-filled coilover shocks enhance traction on any racing surface, and are easily tuned to any racer's driving style.

Topping off each RTR Nitro Rush Evo is a bright red prepainted, trimmed and decaled body, ready to go right out of the box. The body has been strengthened by the use of thicker polycarbonate plastic, and the bright red paint is sure to get the attention at the track! Our popular F5 spoke wheels wrapped with our new super soft rear "X" and front ribbed tires enhance the looks of the total package.

When the owner of the RTR Nitro Rush Evo is ready to upgrade, they will find that our wide range of 2WD truck wheels will fit, as well as our 1/10 scale truck tires and bodies, plus all of the current Nitro Rush performance upgrades, such as woven graphite shock towers and upper deck, racing fuel tank, turnbuckle set, high performance air filter and much more!

The new RTR Nitro Rush Evo: faster, stronger, more convenient and better performance! Exactly what off-road buyers are looking for

#561 RTR Nitro Rush Evo
Suggested Retail Price: $519.00 (actual selling price may be considerably lower).

[puribong]

kew... I didn't think HPI was gonna update Rush truck. so I guess this truck should be more durable than orginal rush..?

[losiguy1090]

is there foam in the tires:rolleyes: still no turnbuckles

[RC10tee3]

/\ i would hope they have foams this time and god they need to get the clue TURNBUCKLES not some plastic POS.:p :mad: :D

[losiguy1090]

i know. dont they realize that plastic breaks easier than steel or titanium? and havent u noticed that right after they release a kit they start releasing turnbuckle kits:rolleyes:



GET A CLUE HPI!!!!!!!!!!

[ExtremeMT]

Metal bends, doesnt bend back without eponentially reducing its strength. The poly compund HPI uses will absorb the shock from a crash and most likely it will move back to its original place just as strong, if not it will crack. And when that happens, it cost a couple bucks to fix instead of 20.

[losiguy1090]

ya but theyre fixed linkages. that means no tuning for different tracks:( and wen wus the last time u bent a lunsford turnbuckle? ya thats wut i thot.:D

[24601]

I have broken and bent many Lunsfords on my Losi.

My take: 75% or more of the guys who buy this truck will be better off with fixed linkages. All the adjustments on cars these days are many times causing more harm than good. I see guys all the time with tires pointing everywhere because they had to rebuild something or tried to adjust it and go it all wrong. Pivot balls are even worse. Then you have to guy who can't drive but thinks it is a "set-up" problem and spends the whole day turning turnbuckles and changin shock oil when they need to just practice.

I think Traxxas did it right on the new Maxx. With the turnbuckles and pivot balls all you have to do is bottom them out and you are set perfect. Sure, you can trim a few threads and adjust them more if you want to, but how many people ever truly will need to?

The best advice I ever got was to leave my car alone. I learned to drive, then I started being able to see hwat te car was actually doing and what it might be that I would actually need to adjust. I spend a whole lot less time "tuning" (or should I say, "de-tuning") and more time turning fast laps.

[waffles]

lunsfords don't bend, they break. that's why they came out with the superduty line. i've broken lunsfords and i've seen them broken quite a bit.

[Rushevaderacer]

It looks like they upgraded the chassis:eek:
about time

hopefully it dosent bend like the old one

[ZeroMax]

thats is just bad! i just got a new RUSH about 1 month ago and it is broken, now there is a RUSH EVO? oh well as long as it doesn't cost $250 beacause thats how much mine cost :mad:

[Pro3/nmt105]

well looks like they might have solved the chassi bending problem by copying the gts engine mount, but that doesnt make it handel better or anything.

[losiguy1090]

theres not much they can do to make it handle better w/out building a hole new truck

[zero sk8er]

Do you guys think this will be released before christmas?

[losiguy1090]

probly

[Sebring]

HPI NEEDs..and I cannot emphisize NEED anymore then I already am, to update the spurr gear. I swear. That is the Rush's weakest link. Even with the thicker chassis, an engine that NEVER moves, and the rear aluminum brace, I STILL strip spurr gears at a rate of 2 - 3 a track day. They need to make a metal gear. Period, end of story.

[Sebring]

Bellcranks work wonders. I intigrated a bellcrank system into my Rush, and instantly, the horrid understeer went away. it still udnersteers a little, but I like a little under. With the right tweaks, my Rush hangs with Losi and Associated trucks with no problem at all.

[Sebring]

I'm dissapointed. All they did was coat the chassis in a new colour and cram a bigger engine in it..Anyone can do that. I was seriously looking for the Rush Racer that was supposed to come out a long time ago. >\ Maybe the mounting plate will at least help. I might just get that for the Rush I have. No need to go buy another one..Already have two.

[RespiratoryRC]

-Steve-
Why hasn't HPI come out with a super nitro shaft drive? One would think that it would be easy for them todo... just by taking some parts out of their Supersize rally car and mating it to the super RS4 nitro? They seem to upgrade just about everything else but not the srs4.

[StevePond]

They have - it's the Super Nitro RS4 Rally, but this is a thread about the Rush. ;)

[StevePond]

Originally posted by losiguy1090
i know. dont they realize that plastic breaks easier than steel or titanium? and havent u noticed that right after they release a kit they start releasing turnbuckle kits:rolleyes:
GET A CLUE HPI!!!!!!!!!!

HPI is not the one that needs to get a clue. You need to realize that they didn't make this truck for you, if what you want is a fully-optioned, fully adjustable racing truck. It's just a stadium-type truck that's made for someone who wants to pull it out of the box and run it. Most people who aren't into RC as much as all of us, don't care about adjusting camber angles or worry about bellcrank steering. They just want to go out and have fun - that is the type of person for whom this truck is made.

Would you buy a Tamiya Stadium Thunder then complain it doesn't have a ball diff, turnbuckle linkage, bellcrank steering, a racing motor, etc.? It's clearly not intended to compete with trucks like the T4 or XXX-T, nor is the Rush made to compete against the GT or the XXX-NT. Of course the Rush can be run on a track, but I'm sure if HPI decided thats the market they were targeting, the truck would be pretty different than what you see today.

Being someone who has a clue, you should have known based on the features of the Rush, that it wasn't intended as a competition truck. ;)

[losiguy1090]

i know that theyre capable of making a true racer, just look at the r40 man, that car is alsome! im just saying that if they come out w/ an evolution version i thought it would have had turnbuckles. sorry tho:o that engine looks a little bit like an orion. ok not really but still its got the same color skeme. do u know how fast its suposed to go? nicely put steve. once again, sorry. my bad:o

[rcer4life]

how much stronger is that engine?? Will it cost more than the original rush?? Dat cant beat mi RC10gt

[losiguy1090]

it probly makes similar power to your gt's motor cuz its supposed to do 40:cool: i wonder if hpi would ever make an all out racing stadium truck. they did it right w/ the r40. who knows.

[atm92484_3]

Judging from the R40, I bet HPI could without any trouble, but they would probably have to start from the ground up instead of just modding the Rush.

[Nobrushesforme]

Not to get off topic, but if a lunsford turnbuckle bends or breaks who cares? They have a lifetime warrenty!

[Sebring]

A Rush racer was planned from the get go. They were supposed to release a version of the rush that was all raced out, sort of like the MT Racer..but it never happened. HPI has some serious issues with the Rush's spurr gear. Hopefully the new motor plate will fix these issues. Also, even with the thicker chassis, the whole truck had serious flex issues..Even with the aluminum rear brace..The Rush could be a very compitent race design..I know it can be, because I've seen my Rush beat the **** out of Losi and Associated trucks at my track..Where's the Racer, HPI?

[atm92484_3]

Tower has them listed as in stock; anyone get one yet?

[Sebring]

I'm getting one just to play with it. Going to give my stock Rush to a friend put all my race parts and modified stearing on this one..See if the 'improvments' make any difference.

[madmagazine]

First of all I'm pissed off because they put "evo" on it, which is suppose to sound cool, but it's just a rip off of lancer evo series...

second of all, they should've changed that engine mount LLONNGG time ago. all those rush owners(including me) suffered greatly because of that chassis problem.

Also, I don't think its gonna sell that much because of the rush's reputition that has already been set.

[WutaRush2]

I still like HPI's Rush despite all of the problems i have had with mine I think HPI should have at least put a better servo saver on the new Rush i have broken 4 servos with my rush and now iv gotten a metal gear servo. Ans with the turnbuckles i have had no problems with mine.

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Originally posted by madmagazine
First of all I'm pissed off because they put "evo" on it, which is suppose to sound cool, but it's just a rip off of lancer evo series...

second of all, they should've changed that engine mount LLONNGG time ago. all those rush owners(including me) suffered greatly because of that chassis problem.

Also, I don't think its gonna sell that much because of the rush's reputition that has already been set.

Rip Of The Lancer evo? Lol,..it stands for evoloution and thats what it is, no other word for it, unless you say pro,..but the evo chassis is not a complete hop up version of the old rush,

Anyway i think the truck looks smart, may consider getting it when i turn in my current truck.

Nitro~Freek

[clodkiller]

No offece to any 1 here I have a rush that i regularly race.
This new rush evo is a total pice, EXACT SAME truck at the regular rush just a grey anodized chasis and a .15 fe with a different head and a roto start. which does not at all add up to what they are asking for this thing.

And to whom ever said they need to fix the spur problem u are either dumb and dont know how to set gear mesh. I have Never stripped a spur gear in my truck. My truck is 2 years old.

The evo is a waste of money to buy. get a regular rush for 250 and get the FREE thick chasis and FREE aluminium head and a free aluminium fly wheel. if u look on the hpi site all the recal parts are there for free when u send in your old one it doesent even have to be broken.

again no offece to any one but the truck is the biggest scam its not even an evolution from the origional.

[samritchie794]

hi

i recently purchashed a rush evo,i thinks its great .

im just wondering if any one has and good hop ups which will help with handling a speed.

cheers sam

[steveo303]

:confused: HPI is not the one that needs to get a clue. You need to realize that they didn't make this truck for you, if what you want is a fully-optioned, fully adjustable racing truck. It's just a stadium-type truck that's made for someone who wants to pull it out of the box and run it. Most people who aren't into RC as much as all of us, don't care about adjusting camber angles or worry about bellcrank steering. They just want to go out and have fun - that is the type of person for whom this truck is made.

Would you buy a Tamiya Stadium Thunder then complain it doesn't have a ball diff, turnbuckle linkage, bellcrank steering, a racing motor, etc.? It's clearly not intended to compete with trucks like the T4 or XXX-T, nor is the Rush made to compete against the GT or the XXX-NT. Of course the Rush can be run on a track, but I'm sure if HPI decided thats the market they were targeting, the truck would be pretty different than what you see today.

Being someone who has a clue, you should have known based on the features of the Rush, that it wasn't intended as a competition truck. ;)
hi ther' im a new member and new to radio control cars,i just bought a {nitro rush evo**
and ive had a few prob's with it.....first the slipper clutch went on it,this i put down to my falt,as it tells you to adjust it and i did not know till i read the diagram after the damage was done...today the diff bevel'd gear set' went and ive only had 10 tanks of fuel running time..does this happen a lot or is it common thing...or am i doing some-thing' wrong its suppose to be ready to run from the box...all 4 of the teeth wheels have ground down....please can you advise me on what to do'..are the ball diff's better or what'... all info on this would be a great help.....steveo :confused:

[Tucker01]

Steveo there is a known quality issue with some diff gears on the Nitro Rush Evo. The shop where you bought your car should replace them with harder gears free of charge. I know this because the same happened to mine. That's the situation here in the UK anyway.

I whilst I'm on the subject, here in the UK the Nitro Rush RTR is the cheapest 'big name' nitro vehicle available, and yes it has it's limitations (it's a entry level model - it would do), but for the price, I think it's pretty damn good.

So, one of you guys gunna get me a green card or what, the UK sucks! :)

[TheGasMan]

LOSIGUY1090...

The Rush Evo should crack 40mph (66kmph) before you fiddle the gears. Its quick and I hear the .18 engine is nearly a straight swap. This is a fast truck!

[TheGasMan]

Any of you guys have any problems setting the thing up? I mean - my car drifts to the right pretty bad ( and yes I adjusted the trim on transmitter- no difference) and i cant set the brake to work when I brake but still release at idle position.

By the way - do I need to adjust the clutch or something?? This is supposed to be RTR!!

[surfer]

^

its an hpi rush.

if its pulling to the right and you adjusted the trim then then your right hex is probably stripped out (happened to me 4 times in one day with original rush)

[TheGasMan]

Hmm... thanks for the tip surfer.... I'll have a check

[laminatedfrog]

I have an Evo and am getting annoyed with it's wide turning radius. What is the best way to make its wheels turn further? Bellcrank steering was previously mentioned on this thread but I'm not sure what that is. I also might just have something adjusted wrong.

[Ed237]

I had a problem with my Evo Rush steering when I first got it. Sometimes it would pull left, then it would pull to the right no matter how I adjusted the servo trim.

It turned out that the servo saver overstightenned and it was not greased inside so it would get stuck or hung up. I removed the servo saver, took it apart and put a dab of grease in there, and tightenned it snug, but not too tight.

When the switch is on and power is going to the servo, you shold be able to push the wheels in and the servo saver should slide to avoid damaging the servo, and the spring back out to where it was.

The Rush's direct steering system doesn,t cause a large turning radius in and of itself. Its probably due to the slow stock servo or possibly the servo saver is stripped and its not reaching its end points or the dual rate is on your radio is not working properly. Its probably all related. I would remove the servo saver and take it apart to see whats going on in there first.

I am not an expert but running a slight toe out seems to help my Rush turn better.

[Ed237]

I also had issues with the carb and brake system on my Evo. If I adjusted for brakes, I couldnt reach wide open throttle, when I adjusted for wide open throttle, the brakes would hardley engage.

I eventually had to unattatch the throttle ball cup, set the brake up to where I liked it. I made sure the servo was centered. Then I loosend the nut that holds the carb throttle 'arm' so it would slide with out actuating the carb (dont remove it all the way) I adjusted the carb so that it was closed (except for the recommended 1 mm openning at idle) and re-tightenned the throttle arm and ball cup.

I had to do that about 5 times before it worked to my satisfaction. It was not fun, but I havent had to adjust it since then either.

[tfhughes]

Hey guys,

I picked up the Nitro Rush Evo 2 days ago from a buddy of mine. This truck is awesome. The only big issue i have with the truck is the throttle/brake linkage. This design, in my opinion, is very cheaply made and does not work well. Other then that i am actually very impressed with the truck. Oh ya, the pipe is pretty crappy too, i took the pipe of my RC10GT and it performs much better now.

Let's keep this thread goin.

[SpeeD-Jr]

My uncle has a rush evo and he was running it on a golf field to be exact on a ''forgotten green''. So he landed hard 90 deg on the back, nothing broken unless the body has cracked. My brother ran it and when he came to stop there was a bump in front of us, so when he braked the rear uncompressed then accelerated it compressed right on the bump, he sent it airborne right in front of us! LOL. We were like **** there must be something broken... NOP ! good as new. Very tough.

[Pat Fierle]

I am looking at a stadium truck and was considering the Rush Evo. Is it good or am i better off looking at a different truck?

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Anyone still running a Rush Evo?

[crazysavage]

I dont run the evo but I have the first rush with all of the optional parts for it and an O.S. cvr-18. It runs good and is really fast, I have more fun running my rush now then I have with my savage.

[munnracing]

Hi, new to the forums and also new to the rush evo, anyone have any hop-up or mods to talk about?

[Speedyshel]

Hi, new to the forums and also new to the rush evo, anyone have any hop-up or mods to talk about?
New to the forums too, but I have had my Rush for quite a while and I recently replaced the .15 FE with the T-15 engine. Anyway, I'm sure a whole new engine is not what you had in mind. For starters, the tuned pipe is good and the fuel tank is a good replacement. The primer on the original gas tanks tend to leak easily therefore losing pressure in the tank. I'll let you know if I think of any more.

[Killerush]

I just bought my Rush EVO about 3 months ago and I agree it could use some improvements. However, there are not very many trucks you can buy for under $300 that are race ready right out of the box(meaning they require NOTHING to get it on the track). For all of you guys that would like to run one here is a race proven fix for most of the downfalls with this truck(I won the A main first time out with my EVO, and that was my first RC race, beating a Losi XXX NT AD1 among others).

-Rear T-maxx turnbuckles work perfect for the rear of the EVO and are simple to install($7). I haven't swapped the front yet.
- OFNA Diff Locker in the rear, I think I used 10,000 wt. This will give it more of a push in the turns but really increases traction and life of diff.
- Replaced the T-15 for a O.S .12 CV-r($100). This thing really made the EVO come to life!! I also hate having a fixed engine mount because I like to set my own mesh, and this solved that problem.
- CVEC dual stinger adjustable pipe($60), sounds great and the O.S motor really screams with this pipe.

That's pretty much it. I bought mine specifically for stadium truck class on road racing and the EVO does this VERY well. Unfortuantely there are very few off road tracks in my area, so my racing off road is limited. All of you dirt guys may be able to use some of this info and I hope it helps. -Killerush

[Radio Acer]

hey everyone. I was a regular back on the old HPI Rush forum, and it seems that a couple of you guys need a little help to get started. I've been racing a Rush for 3 years now, and it is just as good as any RC10GT or XXX-NT. Unfortuantely, i've found that it takes a lot of money in aftermarket parts to get this truck to that status. A few immediate upgrades should be:
-Primerless fuel tank (stock one leaks horribly)
-Titatium turnbuckles (Stock ones bend/break and do everything else they shouldn't)
-Super Hard Rear springs (Stock is much to soft. I'd reccomend buying a whole new set of shocks, something like RC10GT shocks. I've also found that 30-35wt oil in the rear and about 25 wt oil in the front works well)
-Ofna Heavy Duty Servo Saver/Metal Gear Servo (The stock saver sticks and doesn't keep the wheels pointed in the right direction. The Ofna does this well)
-Heavy Duty Slipper Clutch (The plastic one just doesn't last)
-Any tuned pipe, just get rid of the stock plastic one. I have the HPI pipe, and it works very well, but it's rather expensive, and there are probably better pipes out there for the money.

For those of who that have spur gear problems, if you set the mesh correctly, the spur should last for ages. I still have the stock spur gear on my truck, and it looks perfect. To set the mesh, take a piece of scrap printer paper and stick it between the clutch bell and the spur gear. Set the mesh so that the paper cannot slide out from between the two gears without ripping, but must be taken out by turning the gears. This should give you a perfect mesh.
DO NOT buy the ball diff made by HPI for this truck. It is a POS. Instead, buy a spare set of diff gears. The RS4 gears are made of stronger metal than the stock and buy a diff spring set. (I don't know the name or part number, but they are little springs that you can insert into the gear diff to give it a limiited slip feel). Mess around with those springs until you find a setting that you like. Only do this if you are really frustrated with your original diff, want to race, or just want a limited slip diff. Killerush's idea of using diff oil will also work, although i have never tried it myself.
If you get a new engine, buy the lightweight flywheel and the Nitro Racing Clutch (the one with the loop style spring). this provides a quicker and more reliable set-up. My stock clutch spring snapped after a year of racing.
Something to think about-buying GPM aluminum Rear a-arms, bulkheads, and wheel hex adapters. The rear a-arms flex so much that the stock dogbone can fall out during a cartwheel or rollover (this actually happened to me). The stock hex adapters are so soft that they can melt themselves and the wheel or destroy the bearings in the rear hubs (both of which has happened to me). However, this all happened under racing conditions. These parts will probably hold up if you're just bashing. And i wouldn't reccomend replacing the front a-arms with aluminum because the stock plastic allows them to flex, and therefore they don't ever break.
I think that's it for today. That must qualify as my longest post ever.

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Hey guys,

Picked up a new Rush Evo today, steadily getting back into the hobby and always like the look of it since it came out. Thought it would be a nice little project to gradually hop up as am on a Rc budget and time limit nowadays lol
Never ran a Hpi before, and am still runnin a Duratrax. But, break-in tomorrow, should be fun ;)

Cant wait to get back into it all again.

Any 1st hop up suggestions and weak point advice would be appreciated.

N~F

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

Ahh run into a problem during break in.

The throttle/break servo is twitchin like crazy and i cant seem to find whats causing it, batteries are charged, failsafe is fitted, any ideas?

N~F

[Radio Acer]

I'd take the servo out and check that it's wires aren't frayed. If they're not then check the receiver and make sure it's ok. check the antenna wire for damage, and if you can't find anything, plug in another servo into the receiver and see if it works fine. It's hard to say what might be causing it to twitch.

[Nitro~Freek!!!]

thnx alot for the input Acer, very helpful. Checked the stuff u said with no fault, then found that the failsafe is a dud lol Gonna get it replaced this weekend.

thnx again.

N~F

[Radio Acer]

no problem. I've never heard of a failed failsafe, but it's possible. I've never used one before, though. You probably wouldn't need one, as long you know how long your batteries last and keep track of how long you run your truck, or use a throttle return spring. Have fun with your Rush.

[zueslilbuddy]

i'm just getting a original nitro rush. Is hpi still doing the chassis swap? and how would i tell if its the weaker chassis they originally came with?

[Radio Acer]

If you're buying it new, then there should be no way that you would get the old chassis. The easiest way to tell is to do it the old fashion way, measure the chassis. The old one is 2mm thick and the newer one is 2.5mm thick. I don't think you'll have a problem with the chassis though. I bent mine a few weeks ago, the first time after 4 years of racing, and it was only a slight bend. The really funny thing is that the end of the chassis was so worn down that it had less than 2mm of thickness left, while the front still had 2.5mm.

[Speedyshel]

My one is just about in the same condition! :D

[Daddimike]

were can I get a steering bellcrank set- up for the rush

[Radio Acer]

pick up an RC10GT bellcrank setup, a graphite upper chassis, and some tie rods in the lengths you'll need (you're gonna have to measure that after you've got it all set up) The bellcranks should replace the front two posts that come with the graphite deck and you'll probably have to drill some holes in the chassis to mount the servo.
If F4i racing is still around then he makes a titanium chassis with all the holes drilled.

[Daddimike]

AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!! Any other other good hop -ups or advice on this machine? It has the stock15fe motor in it. Is it worth going from the ABN to the ABC set-up or should I just do the exchange with HPI for a different engine?

[Radio Acer]

If I were you then I'd keep the stock motor and once it's outlived its usefulness then use HPI's engine exchange program. It's not worth upgrading, and if run just a tad lean then it gives decent power.
For hop-ups, see if you can find the aluminum slipper disk, it's about 10 dollars and lasts years longer than the junk plastic one. Also, update your suspension settings if you haven't already with something stiffer in the back.
I don't think there are any other "necessary" parts, but as times goes on and you run it more and more then I think you'll discover on your own what hop-ups you would like to buy the most.
Also, out of curiosity, are you just bashing or racing as well?

[Daddimike]

I dont race or bash really . I actually spend more time on building my project truck than I do running my other truck. This aluminum Slipper disk you speak of, is that for the spur gear?

[Radio Acer]

yea, it's right behind the spur gear. Here's a link to it on Tower: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAEF1&P=7

[Daddimike]

any thoughts on the stock spider gear differential as compared to the carbide ball differential? I have heard not to use the ball differential but to buy some kind of springs? Any thoughts?

[Radio Acer]

Keep the stock diff. I bought the ball diff and I was also using MIP CVDs. The CVDs chewed up the outdrives like they were made of butter or something within a few runs and HPI doesn't sell the outdrives as a standalone part, so you have to buy an entire diff if anything goes bad.
I used the springs and they worked pretty well, just put a ton of grease into the diff to make it as smooth as possible. It's cheap and gives a similar effect as the ball diff. I think I ended up using the medium strength spring. Again, this is a link to it on Tower: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZT47&P=7

[Daddimike]

I have noticed that after taking apart my 15fe motor that the cylinder sleeve is worn. So eventually I will have to replace the sleeve and piston. Or I can update my Rush with the HPI Nitro Star T-15. Any suggestions, advice or thoughts on this?

[Radio Acer]

Get a new engine once your 15fe croaks. It'll be easier, and will probably save you some hassle, since soon after replacing the piston and sleeve something like a bearing or the conrod could go, and you'd just end up spending more money and time.

[MAXXXMASHER]

I just bought a nitro rush and have been upgrading it steadily with aftermarket rush evo stuff. The steering was driving me crazy for awhile! I couldn't figure out how to keep it from wandering! I've only been into RC for a few years and have only had new stuff. I wasn't into RC during the "good old days" when not everything worked perfectly, but I like to tinker a lot. Maybe I'll see if those titanium chassis are still being made. I've had some good luck finding stuff on e-bay. (which is how this all got started) The Nitro star .15 bolts in real nice. Here's what I've done so far.....

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x140/LantzSams/100_2004.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x140/LantzSams/100_2003.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x140/LantzSams/100_2000.jpg