Brushless Motor Forum v1.0

[WhoKnowsWho]

DamianD1: I just found out my Warrior ESC should be arriving at Rum Runner next week. So I may have it the end of next week... I'll be posting what happens here, for sure. I just picked up an E-Maxx finally, but I don't know how the Lehner Basic 5300 motor will run in it. If it doesn't run well in there, into the Stampede it goes, or the XXX-Spec.

[DamianD1]

WKW,

I maybe asking too much, but can you test that setup on a touring car when you have it?

Thanks.

[WhoKnowsWho]

I have a Traxxas 4-Tec, so it might be too much motor for it, but I do have a new Saleen body for it... so I should run it and see it at some insane speed :) I'll let you know how it goes if no one else responds.

I think Soya was running it in a TC until a shaft broke... I don't remember for sure. It'll be about time for a new belt for the 4-Tec after I run it probably!

[crono man]

wkw, the review for the warrior will be very helpful as im thinking of using it in my xxx buggy:D

thanks again:)

[k_sw31]

i'm gettin a deal lined up with the rum runners. i think i might be getting the 5300 and the 4018/3 w/ BEC soon.


When you click on the IMG button then what do you do?

[Soya]

Nah, I broke the 'bone in my E-maxx. Didn't have time for the rally;)

[saw]

i just purchased a lehner basic 5300 and a warrior speed control from www.maximizerproducts.com.
i installed it in my xxxs to test it out i had it geared taller than i would gear a stock motor and it must have been going fifty. it was quicker than my dad rail with an eight turn ti on six cells. it is now in my xx4 running on five cells and it is perfect for the track i run on six cells was way to mutch power. i have it geared with a 16 tooth pinion which seems about right. i was running a twelve turn ti on a 20 tooth pinion later alll
brushless will be the nex revolution

[k_sw31]

so is acceleration smooth and everything?

[saw]

ya they accelerate pretty smooth, there seems to be a little lag right of bottom but if you turn you throttle trim up on the radio until you hear the motor chirping it is almost unoticable. you do have to run a reciever pack or the motor will just cog, at least that is what i have found. the brakes on the warrior are kind of weak, but from what i have been told the brakes are alot stronger on their better controllers
later

[k_sw31]

how much did you pick it up for?

[saw]

i paid 225 for the motor and controller

[Soya]

Mine was $380:(

[gixxer]

Mine was $256.50

[k_sw31]

i'm goin to pick up mine soon for 212 :D

[krisI.925]

Im going to be getting a 4300 motor with the 70A Warrior ESC. And im going to be running it on 12 cells. 2 6cell packs in series. Do you think this would work alright. And would I need a reciever pack or will the BEC still work.

[k_sw31]

I'm gettin the 5300 with the 40a esc.

Now i'm sorta confused on wireing battery packs, if i'm correct, aren't there two ways of wireing battery packs? Wireing two packs in a series means the esc will be running off 12 cells right?
But isn't there a way to wire packs so you have twice the runtime (maybe there isn't and thats just my imagination speaking)?


Anyways, what car would you be running it in, you'll have plenty of power and rpms regardless, but remeber, you'll have 12000 more r's if you go with the 5300 instead of the 4200.

[DamianD1]

KSW31,

Yes, you can wire the batteries either in series or in parallel.

If you wire in series you will get the number of volts of each pack added and if you wire in parallel, you will get the same number of volts (if both packs are the same) but double the capacity.

To wire in series you connect the positive of one pack to the negative of the other one and then the positive and then the negative and positive that are left disconnected go to the ESC.

To wire in parallel you connect the positives of each pack to each other and the negatives of each pack to each other and then they connect to the ESC.

[crono man]

ksw1-connecting in serie will give you more rpm motor will be hotter

connecting in parrallele will increase the runtime by about 30% not double because it actually lowers the internal resistance of each pack this will give way more torque then series connection but less rpm.also the motor will run cooler but esc will get hotter because of the higher amp draw!

also in what type of car your putting that esc 40amp in? seems way to low for any type of model!

emaxx-at least 100amps
tc and offroad at least 70amps

[krisI.925]

Originally posted by k_sw31
I'm gettin the 5300 with the 40a esc.

Now i'm sorta confused on wireing battery packs, if i'm correct, aren't there two ways of wireing battery packs? Wireing two packs in a series means the esc will be running off 12 cells right?
But isn't there a way to wire packs so you have twice the runtime (maybe there isn't and thats just my imagination speaking)?


Anyways, what car would you be running it in, you'll have plenty of power and rpms regardless, but remeber, you'll have 12000 more r's if you go with the 5300 instead of the 4200.

It is not safe for the ESC to handle a 5300 motor on 12 cells. And also it would make a higher amp draw whcih i dont really want. The 4200 will work just fine and hopefuly i wont have any not much volage issues. If i do im putting it all in my pede and will get a brushes set up for my txt.

[Soya]

Originally posted by crono man
emaxx-at least 100amps

Mine's 83 peak:(

[krisI.925]

Nice.

Im probably am going to mail my order tonight for my BL set up. Pretty good deal. $226 total and then $14 for insured S&H. So abot $239 total. Cant wait till it gets here. Im running stock motors right now and the speed is horrible.

[rc-jockey]

Does anyone have a pic of the Warrior esc? I'd like the measurements too. :D

[SandManRacing]

I'm going to buy this Hacker car Controller and a Hacker C40-S motor.

The order as been made last week. I'm now waiting for everything to arrive.
The controller should have been released this week :)

I can't wait to test it !

Bye

[crono man]

sandman,could you please tell me the specs(amps,rpm limit) for the hacker car controller and the price?

also a small review would be greatly appreciated after you run it:D

thanks:)

[SandManRacing]

Here is what I know by now:

6-12 cells, BEC,
forward-brake or
forward-brake-reverse
current limitter in 4 steps....
Dims: 66 x 32 x 29
Weight: 77g
Continuous current: 66A
Cell count/servos: 6-12 / 2
Price is 219.-EUR or 215 USD

I'm waiting for an answer from Hacker for the MAX RPM.

I'll post some feedback when I receive the kit :)

Bye

[mr_bonkers]

any UK stockists of brushless motors (and esc)?

[k_sw31]

thanks ya'll,

Crono Man- I plan to use it in my t3, i think i might go with the 70a anyways for stronger brakes.

Don't worry kris, that was just a hypothetical question, i plan to only run 6 or 7 cells an maybe a couple of 1500 packs in paralell.

[iceman0013]

Could i use this one? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBRF0&P=C it comes with the motor and esc! Or what about this one http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p.pgm?FVSEARCH=astg0802&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go ? It comes with the esc also!

[Soya]

Use it for what? They're kinda, um, tiny.

[k_sw31]

no you probably couldn't, or wouldn't want to use 'em. First of all they're way too small, they're intended for airplanes so they don't have brakes, and you they're designed to run off 7 cell, 500 mAh batterys, not the standard car stuff.

[rc-jockey]

There's no AMP's!! When starting or coming out of a turn to full power a typical motor will pull 20 to 60 amps it would take those motors 2 city blocks to get up to speed.

[krisI.925]

well im putting my brushless motor thing back on hold for the moment. I got a speeding ticket a while back and i got the court date yesterday. Thing is i got the hardest judge in michigan and will probably completely screw me so ill be paying like 3000 on insurance a year. If that happens that means no bl motor. :(

[k_sw31]

good thing i can't drive yet...

[mr_bonkers]

don't know if this has been posted before, but it looks good ;)

http://www.gtdodd.demon.co.uk/emaxx/test1.htm

[mr_bonkers]

I'm looking for a BL replacement for my 1/10 2wd buggy...

I don't want huge speed, but I do want huge run times :)

I think speed should be comparable to a 19 turn mod for what I want, so any suggestions? Oh I'll only be running 6 cells.

Thanks :)

[k_sw31]

get the aveox sytem or the lehner 4200. I heard you get 9 min runtimes with 6 2400 cells and a 4200. But either way your gonna have a ton of torque.


Hey, do you think that bl motors would be fine driving in the rain?
you'd have to water proof the esc, but the motors would be fine right?

[crono man]

ac power and water are not the best combination imho..

[Soya]

Yeah, only DC can stand water....

[k_sw31]

but your car gear runs off dc, wall outlets are ac.

[crono man]

what do you mean k_sw1???

[mr_bonkers]

He means:

Batteries are DC and you car runs off them, hence you car runs on DC.

Wall outlets are AC (and a lot higher voltage too) :)

[crono man]

water to a lesser degree does not effect dc powered equipement as much as AC powered units..

in bl setup youre source is DC but gets converted into AC power so you have more chance frying your esc and motor:)

[Soya]

Here's my planned gear ratio for my Bolink. It's a 60/35:D

[crono man]

insanity is a fun ride:D

[Racer88622]

hey, you know that kid on the movie the rookie that says "o my god!" ya thats just what i said:eek: :D

[Soya]

Hmm.....I wonder if the local airport will lend me their landing strip:D
That's with 12 cells and an E-maxx motor, BTW:D

[k_sw31]

nice soya, heres my t3 that'll be revieving the lehner setup, if you look closely you can see the 2 speed. For 1st gear i think i'll have like a 76/19 and second gear 72/25. :D

[k_sw31]

Here's this one.

[k_sw31]

In the first pic it was quite wheelie-happy with seven cells mounted like that.:D

[WhoKnowsWho]

I thought you were trying to add air resistance to keep the speed under control with the battery mounted that way. :)

From what I have read, the Warrior 7018 controller can handle up to 18 cells in parallel, so I will be hooking up my E-Maxx with 2 6 cell parallel packs whenever the stuff arrives. I hate waiting... no wonder I shop at the LHS all the time...

[k_sw31]

maybe if i put a scoop like soya made except 5 times bigger on the back, when i goes fast enough, the air resistance will force the backend down causeing it to do a wheelie. :D

[JitsuGuy]

Does anyone know if there is video anywhere on the web that shows a brushless vechicle running? I want to see one go!

Thanks,
Jits

[crono man]

for the vids checkout

www.ultimatetraxxas.com
www.maxxtraxx.com

[JitsuGuy]

Thanks crono man!

[Soya]

Waiting, waiting....

[WhoKnowsWho]

Me too man... at least I have driven my maxx twice so far!

I know that once I get the motor, I will still have to wait a while for the chassis to be in stock at Stormer. Anyone know of anyone else who sells the Xtreme E-Maxx chassis?

[k_sw31]

vids of hella fast boats at www.finedesignrc.com

Oh yeah, thanks for the battery wiring info just tried 2 1500's in paralell, it was pretty sweet.

[Soya]

WhoKnowsWho--You could try making one.

[WhoKnowsWho]

I could try making a lot of stuff if I had something more than a dremel tool to work on aluminum! I think I would rather make a chassis for my Clod or a mini chassis for something else before I made one for the Maxx. I don't have a problem spending $130 for the Maxx chassis, I do have a problem spending $230 for a Clod chassis though.

What's the easiest at home way to cut aluminum? Getting it isn't hard... there was that one website in that one issue about small amounts of Al stock. But I know there is something inexpensive better than a dremel or a file...

[spenzalii]

i just purchased a lehner basic 5300 and a warrior speed control from www.maximizerproducts.com.
i installed it in my xxxs to test it out i had it geared taller than i would gear a stock motor and it must have been going fifty. it was quicker than my dad rail with an eight turn ti on six cells.[/url]

Hey saw, exactly what kind of gearing were you running? I'm planning on running brushless in my XXX-S, and most people seem to have them in a truck . I'll probably need some really big foams, a la the Parma mag wheels on the Project SpeedStick in the Sept. RCCA, but if it will humiliate a .15 (or, heaven forbid, a .21) RS4 or Colt, I'll do it!:cool:

[Soya]

A jigsaw with a metal blade. Definitely one of my most used tools. Pretty inexpensive, too. And if you want a complete work station, a belt sander. Then, you can make anything (Like I did:D )
Oh, and even maybe use a T-maxx chassis like I did. It's pretty light, and hella strong. It's cheap, and it lowers everything by about 1/2":)

[k_sw31]

hey soya, how easy was it to convert your e maxx to a tmaxx chassis?was it just a matter of drilling new holes?

[SandManRacing]

Maybe you should start a new topic about chassis mods. Since this one is about BRUSHLESS MOTORS.

Bye

[k_sw31]

which reminds me. Does any one no how a bl motor functions? (frankly, i don't know how a brushed motor functions) a diagram could be helpful too.

[SandManRacing]

here is a brushless motor animation

http://www.servomag.com/flash/2-pole/2pole-bldc-motor.html

And here are some animations that show the difference between Brushed and brushless motors:

http://www.microchip.com/1010/suppdoc/design/mtrcntrl/menufaq/mtrtypes/

Bye !

[k_sw31]

thanks.

[Soya]

Originally posted by k_sw31
hey soya, how easy was it to convert your e maxx to a tmaxx chassis?
It was quite easy. I only had to cut the hole for the shifting servo and drill the battery post holes. That's it. And SandManRacing, I haven't seen a thread yet that has stayed completely on topic:rolleyes:

[crono man]

hey guys your bl motors will be running a bit longer...sanyo just announced their 3300HV cells:) check it out on orion website

[k_sw31]

yeah, i've had my eye on the SMC Gold Peak 3300 NiMH Matched Stick Pack 6-Cell for 45 bux at http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXCZV9&P=7

run two of those in a paralell, and you'll be out there for half an hour.

[Soya]

But I don't have a NiMH charger. Hence the 2400's;)

[DamianD1]

Soya,

You usually can use a NiCd charger to charge a NiMH cell. You just need to be careful not to overcharge them and not trickle charge them. Once they are charged you should disconnect them. Never let them get hot. As soon as they get warm they are usually fully charged.

[WhoKnowsWho]

I'm probably going to get that new Digital Pirahna charger when I get some 3300s. For the price, it can't be beat!

Oh dang, off the subject again... yeah, those 3300s will sure help my BL last a long time when I get it! :)

[Soya]

I'll eventually get the Dynamite Dual-E. For my BL:p

[mr_bonkers]

Anyone have an opinion on --->This (http://www.team-orion.ch/products/motors_brl.asp)<---

Anyone have it? Can't buy online from UK via their website... :(

[SandManRacing]

Supposed to be available in limited quantities. But difficult to get.

The magnets are made of ferrite not neodyne. So it will produce less power... less punch.

The Vortex 10 should perform like a brushed 10 turns motor.
Orion want to offer a "free maintenance motor" not a more powerfull one.

Why wait for a less powerfull brushless kit when you can already buy a Hacker/Schulze or Aveox or Lehner kit. All those motor use neodyne magnets and they are produced since several years.

You shouldn't wait for the Novak motor either. I wonder when it will come out..... if it does.

Bye

[k_sw31]

i think you can buy aveox's and and hackers in the uk.

P.S. soya, next charger you look at, look for the super brain, nicad nimh, peak, etc. 47 bux at tower.

[Soya]

Thanks. Maybe I should call Fine Design....

[crono man]

for the people that have not seen this before...the new hacker setup(its in the 2003 chicago tread in radiocontrol zone)

[Soya]

Stop it, you're making me more jealous:(

[SandManRacing]

I can't wait to receive my Hacker kit ! :D

Bye

[crono man]

hacker said that they solved the poping can problem.

[SandManRacing]

When did they solve this ? Is it very new ? I want to know if my motor will be ok.

Thanks

[crono man]

well i asked steveP about this problem and the only thing he told me is that sean(hacker represantive)tolded him and i quote"he did suggest that the "early" issues with the system have been solved and have been running without a problem for quite some time"...

sorry i cannot tell you more than that..my suggestion is to call the place where you ordered it and make sure that motor is the same as in the pic(with intergrated heat sinks)as im pretty sure that the problem IS solved with these motors!

for the price these motors cost you got every right to return or make sure the poping can problem is solved

[SandManRacing]

Ok, Thanks Crono man :)

My motor won't be a B50 like the one on the picture (I think it's a B50).

I will go for a C40. Since it will be used in my RC10T3 I want a 540 size not 550. And the C models are the latest I think, but they are only available in 540 size.

http://www.hacker-motor.com//images/c40s.jpg

Bye

[k_sw31]

does the new hacker controller have brakes? How much is it?

[crono man]

cool sandmanracing glad to now everything is ok:)so the motor in the pic is actually a c50 series?what are the differences between "C" and "B" hacker motors i.e(c40 vs b40)

the hacker esc will be 200$usd and yes it does have brakes and from what i heard is very smoooth:)

[SandManRacing]

I already said it on page 12... but since this thread is now very long I will repeat it.

6-12 cells, BEC,
forward-brake or
forward-brake-reverse
current limitter in 4 steps....
Dims: 66 x 32 x 29
Weight: 77g
Continuous current: 66A
Price is 219.-EUR or 215 USD

I don't know if the brake are very efficient or they are proportionals, but the controler do have brakes :)

Bye

[crono man]

if somebody want to see the novak brushless systeme go here--->http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=95703

[SandManRacing]

Here is what I know about Hacker motors:

Rainer Hacker produces one of the largest selections of brushless motors. They feature an aluminum anodized body, high quality hand wound coils, a solid high quality magnet two pole rotor permitting very high rpm, dual ball bearing and tempered output shaft. The two pole rotors permit Hacker to produce motors having the best power to weight ratio.
The motors come in four different sizes, B20, B40, B50 and the latest one, the C40 series of motors.
How does the motor type code work?
Example: B40-8L + PG 4.4:1
B40 is the body of the motor diameter: 40mm; B20: 20mm; B50: 50mm
8 is the number of turns or winds of the motor, the higher the wind, the lower the Kv (rpm/V)
L designates the length of the body. The available sizes are S: short, L: long, XL: extra long. The longer the motor, the more torque it can develop.
PG 4.4:1 indicates a Planetary Gearbox with a gear ratio of 4.4:1.



The difference between C40 and B40 are:

The new motor is planned to be just a fraction smaller than a normal 540 type motor.

The can will actually incorporate cooling fins in the can design - this is why it will be larger in diameter than the current B4x Series.

The can will also incorporate the front motor plate in a one piece unit design, machined from a solid blank.

There will be no separate motor adaptor mounting plate.

The motor will still fit directly into all existing R/C car models designed for 540 brushed type motors.

The motor will be user maintainable, i.e. you will be able to dismantle it to remove, clean or replace the 2 motor bearings.

Subject to testing results, we are planning to have available a range of shaft/magnet designs that will allow you to change the performance characteristics, if you wish to, by changing the shaft/magnet assembly, thus making this motor more flexible in operating choices than the current design.

One motor can suitable for use in both off-road and on-road applications, 1/10th trucks etc.

The motor power wires will exit all together on "top" of the can and not out of the back plate, but the exact orientation is not fixed just yet.

This was taken on Modeltech Webpage... but as you can seee, this is the same motor !

Modeltech page about their "new motor" (http://www.gtdodd.demon.co.uk/brushless/tech3.htm)

Bye !

[SandManRacing]

The Novak motor looks good and the controler is very small ! But I don't like the sensored motor and the ferrite magnets...

Bye

[crono man]

still not sure if they are ferrite BUT if they are at 395$ then all i can say is TABARNAC CEST CHER EN CRISS:eek:

[SandManRacing]

For a better explanation about the difference between B40 and C40 motors, you should go see the Hacker web page (http://www.hacker-motor.com/) and email them about that. You won't learn more on their web site except if you can understand German :rolleyes:

Bye

[k_sw31]

thanks for all the info sandman,

If the price is 395 for just the motor (novak), which i hope its for the controller too, thats outrages.


Ps how much will the hacker c40's be?

[SandManRacing]

Bien dit Crono man. Chu du même avis que toé :p

Bye !

[SandManRacing]

A C40-S motor is about $155.00 US and a C40-L is about $165.00 US.

Bye !

[k_sw31]

my whole german vocabulary, yavhol, mein, oh yeah and i listen to ramstine:D lol

[hyperrev]

I have the C40s on my 1/10 sedan and it rocks. Has alot of torque and speed. The thing is a work of art and I haven't had any problems with it so far!:) :D

[k_sw31]

what controller do you run?

[rawbert]

I'm ditching brush motors. They are a pain, I figure by the time I buy a comm lathe I'd already have enough for a brushless, so I'm going to go brushless, no question about it. No matience, just the way I like it. :p

Questions though --

Is the Aveox and LC170(I think) speed control a good setup? Will these two work with each other and fit into my 1/10 electric just fine?

Is it one of the faster brushless motors out? Some kids at the track run a 9 double, and always talk about how "fast" he is. I want to be faster, is this possible with brushless if I gear right, sine I can get higher compared to what he can? Keep in mind the limit is only 6 cells.

Does the speed control work fine in reverse and throttle, no delays, right? I know some people had some setup where it would delay before you go.

That's all for now,

I'll have more questions probably!

Rob :)

[hyperrev]

I am running the shulze 88ce controller. So far it hasn't thermaled on me. However, I am only running 6 cells, and I plan on running eight. It should be realllly FAST, not that its not!:D

[hyperrev]

In regards to the Aveox motor and controller, They are fast. The Aveox RC 7 Oval is a 1.5 turn motor, but I have no idea if that it is comparable to a 1.5 turn brushed motor, if there is even such a thing. The controller that you mention should either be a 160 or a 360 controller from Aveox. It has reverse and no lag time when you go from forward to reverse. I personally prefer that it has a lag time for durability reasons on both the controller and motor. Just remember that the Aveox controllers are fairly big and you have to do some modifications on 1/10 sedans if you want them to fit. Brushless motors have tons of torque. You can gear way up and still peel all four tires when you slam the throttle. Get a brushless...you cant go wrong!

[turbo your .15]

why is the motor so expensive? in theroy they should be simpler. i can under stand the speed controler costing alot becuause on the new sensorless motors the controller has to have a complex hall effect feed back sens circuit.

[Popop]

Hey all
Did you noticed Airage stuff still isn't able to show B/L projects ?
Are these guys glued by the system or scoop makers ??

I WANT TO SEE B/L CARS REVIEWS IN RCCA (for the cash I pay overseas for this mag !)

[crono man]

turbo .15-brushless are expensive because...

1.they use very expensive magnets(that are about 20 times stronger than normal brushed magnets)

2.they are actually handwound(the electro magnet part)

to be honest brushless motors that use the same magnets as normal brushed motor are about at the same price as a hand wound trinity motor :)

[ElectricThunder]

Hey all, i just registered and i have a question for you all. Would a Lehner 4200 and a warrior controller be a good setup for a T3?

[GTpanda]

RCCA is not an independent magazine, it will show you what their sponsors want to sell, and BL is going to destroy a golden heaven paved in lathes, brushes, armatures and the like...

ever wondered why (given the magazine Nitro exists) there's so little electric in RCCA? I only buy a few a year now, once upon a time I'd even subscribe (and no, it isn't cheap overseas)

[crono man]

electricthunder-the 4200 lehner is a damn good motor(but be aware it does not have a flat spot for the pinion gear)

the warrior speed control,dont know much about that(ive heard it has some cogging problems)check this link out for more info-->http://pub21.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasfrm59.showMessage?topicID=1135.top ic

and here-->http://pub21.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasfrm59.showMessage?topicID=1069.top ic

hope this help:)

[ElectricThunder]

thanks crono man, i appreciate it. I'll check out those links later. Thanks again!

[Simen123]

hi,
I`m about to purchase a brushless setup for use with 6cells in my Xray, and I am wondering about a few things;
- Will I need a reciever pack if I use the warrior 7018 esc(with 6 cells on a basic 4200 or 5300) to prevent "cogging"?
- Is it any chance for that the 7018esc will thermal when using the 4200 or 5300(in a 6cell tourer)?
- Or would even the 3100 motor work well in the touring car(if the risk for thermal is big with the 4200 or 5300..)?

I don`t Need anything faster than something similar to a good 12T brushed motor.

Thank you!

[Soya]

OWWWWWWWIEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!
I just fell off my 'blades. Going 'bout 30. Got caught in a crack. Can't feel my wrists. Having trouble typing. I'm now going to take a bath in peroxide. They should be able to hear my screams from space.

[crono man]

ouch!!!!!:(

take it easy there soya wrist pains are a bummer(i should know i ride downhill mountain biking)

put some ice on it..then take a long hot bath

should clear up in no time;)

[k_sw31]

which reminds me, in june i dumped on my dirt bike, ripped open my knee etc.

A month later as i was all healed, i was getting off my quad when my knee caught on the seat and ripped a bunch more skin off. :mad:

Just shows how much of a clutz i am.

[Soya]

I had pizza tonight. Let's see, molten sauce, open wounds....

[k_sw31]

my knee was hamburger, num:rolleyes:

[ElectricThunder]

I'm in karate, and i have to spar (fight) against black belts!!!!! Lucky me, i'm good at it, but i've been kicked in the jaw, below the belt, and every where else. Anyways, another question, where should i get a b/l system from? I mean, which is the most reputable company to order form? thanks in advanced!!!!

[k_sw31]

i did karate in kindergarden!

Some good sites for bl setups,

www.rumrunnerhobbies.com

www.finedesignrc.com

[ElectricThunder]

Thanks K, i'll check into all that. What belt did you make it up to? I started about 2 1/2 years ago, so i'm red(3 from black, YAY!!!). But thanks again dude. I aprreciate your help.

[k_sw31]

actually did it for a year or two and made it up to an orange belt.

[Simen123]

could anyone help me with the post above?
that would be great. I`ve been at rumrunnerhobbies, aveox, finedesign, maxxtraxx, here, HPI forum, maximizerproducts and most of the BL sites, but I haven`t found any answers :)

[k_sw31]

you don't need a reciever pack for the lehner setup, but i heard it helps alot.

The esc probably won't thermal on 6 cells, or it better not

you could use the 3100 but keep in mind you'd only have 20000 r's on 6 cells, the 4200 would give you about about 28000, and the 5300 would give you about 35000 rpms, keep in mind with the 3100 you could gear way up cuz of the much stronger neo magnets (versus standard ferrite mags) and make it go as fast or maybe even faster than a 12 turn.

But the 4200 or the 5300 would be more suitably mached to you.

[Simen123]

So the 3100 has stronger magnets than the 5300/4200? Would it develop more heat to get the same speed as the 4200 out of the 3100?
thank you!

[k_sw31]

no, they all have super strong magnets, i'm sure it would get slightly hotter to gear a 3100 up so it wuold goe as fast as a 4200 with lower gearing. But cuz of the increased efficiency of bl motors, they stay cooler anyways.

[crono man]

15 runs...today i was at my track and my car stopped moving so i opened up my motor and to my surprise my chameleon pro motor commutator was ground away i could see the freakin insolation under the copper segments!

thats it NO MORE F@#$KIN BRUSHED MOTORS if somebody tells me that a brushed motor has ANY avantages(aside of powering the hairdryer)il go A-WALL:mad:

that lady and gentlemen was my last brushed motor..trinity can go stuff their red machined brian kinwald matt francis crap up somebody else A H@LE

[rawbert]

Tell me about it. You know what sucks? I want to go out and have 5 pratice runs, with my 12 turn, and then have to take the motor out, take the brushes out, cut the comm, change the brushes, repeat breakin method, and then get another 5 runs and repeat the process.

Aveox RC7, here I come, at least I won't need to take you out of my truck once your in, vrooooooooooooooommmmm..

[k_sw31]

you can calm down a little bit, besides, i go through endbells at a furious pace.

[Soya]

Whoa, simma donna;)
I called Fine Design, they said all Shulze shipments went out Thursday, so I'll be gettin' my controller this week:D
Man, my wrist still hurts, perhaps I broke it or sumthin....

[crono man]

sorry for that just had to vent but cmon somebody is screwing somebody here... k_sw1 what do you mean by going through endbells?are they bl enbells?

[k_sw31]

no, the speed gems 2 endbells have a tendancy to under heat. I'm not sure why, but i have bad luck with them. But i know what you mean.

[Soya]

Yeah, me too. My Ruby's endbell melted clean off:eek:

[SandManRacing]

Yeah that's why I'm going to brushless too.

The brushes wear to fast (for me 4 or 5 runs) and the comms don't last long. After two set of brushes my motor is usualy to worn. Some pieces of the commutator are chipped. I never cut my comm and I know that this would help my brushes and motor last longer, but...

Anyway, I'll go with a brushless kit. It won't wear.

I like to be able to practice a little before a race without thinking about the wear of the comm. I don't want to buy a motor for practice and one for race.

BTW I melted some SpeedGem endbells too :(

Bye

[rawbert]

Originally posted by SandManRacing
I like to be able to practice a little before a race without thinking about the wear of the comm. I don't want to buy a motor for practice and one for race.

Yeah, it's like... "I need to pratice some runs, but need to race" and you don't know what to do. :(

[k_sw31]

i think it will also give nitro racers an option when getting a electric car, cuz that way they'll have more power, and plus they can't say "electric is weak" anymore.

[Soya]

Just my luck. I got my controller today and it's raining:(

[crono man]

hey guys small queastion for ya

does a 8turn bl motor have the same amp draw as a 8turn brushed motor?

[SandManRacing]

I don't think so. Since a BL motor is more efficient. More efficient = less power consumed for higher ouput power.

So a brushless motor that has the same performances as a 8t brushed motor should draw less AMP (with the same voltage).


I hope this is clear... If it's not just ask me :)

Bye

[k_sw31]

i have no clue, but this is what my simple mind is thinking, a bl motor uses less aMP draw, and SInce the increased efficiency doesn't lose power by heat, it allows the motor to create more power at less amp draw. Since it's taking less amp draw, you get more runtime. Does this sound feasable?

[crono man]

so logically if im getting 4min runtime with a 8t brushed motor i should have the same if not more runtime with a bl motor(same ratio ofcourse)?

[Soya]

Oh crap. I was flipping through my Shulze manual and it said the motor wires can't be more than 4 inches long! In order to reach, I have to move the ESC up front and the reciever back, not to mention all the messed up wiring. I post a pic eventually.

[k_sw31]

soya, whats the reasoning for that? Probably just a precaution, but i guess you don't want to void the warrenty.


Crono man- That's correct, at least in my opinion. Rum runner hobbies said the got 9 min of runtime with a lehner 4200. This was on 2400's too, imagine with the 3300's that have forty % more runtime!

[Soya]

Help! Anybody that owns a Shulze controller! It says when I hook up the battery, it waits 1 second and determines full throttle and brake, and then it beeps. Mine doesn't! I'm pretty sure I have all the switches right. Help!:confused:

[k_sw31]

i think integrad12 has a schulze, i'm not pausitive though, send him an email or somethin.

[Soya]

Ok, I just figured it out; I had the servo lead reversed! I'll work out the kinks and post a pic after school.

[SandManRacing]

Crono Man and k_sw31, I think we are correct about the current thing. You should get a better run time with a brushless 8t than with a brushed 8t with the same ratio and same voltage (same number of cells). With more cells your runtime will be worst. Except if you plug two or more pack in parallel. This way you get the same voltage but a better runtime.

Soya, the thing about the wire lengh is that if they are too long you can have interference (glitch) problems. Don't forget that the motor is running on AC current. So you have some king of signal on the wires. It's not DC.

Bye

[WhoKnowsWho]

Hey Soya, did you calm down enough yet to wire the stuff correctly? :)

Rum Runner hobbies finally got the Warrior controllers in, so I should get my stuff hopefully before Monday. This sucks!

[Soya]

Wires, wires, everywhere....
You can see the springs I put on the body posts. I put the fan on the controller because it got REALLY hot after I ran it. And if you were wondering, yes, it's freakin' fast:D

[k_sw31]

sweet.

[Soya]

Well said:)

[k_sw31]

so what mods did you do to the tranny to handle bl power?

[crono man]

soya-that thing looks nuts:D

if anybody is interested rc-cars magazine will be doing a review of the orion vortex bl setup in their november issue..

[Popop]

The Schulze HOT temp seems quite strange ...

What is the Schulze model ?
Did you success in shortening the esc-motor link (can both alter motor action and esc control) ?

Bye

[Soya]

I didn't modify the tranny at all.
It's a 18/61. I had to move the controller to the front or the wires wouldn't reach. I think they're less than 4". I'll check again after school.

[Soya]

I ran it 4 more times, and it overheated every time. At about half-pack, it just shuts off, waits 5 seconds, and then comes back on. Then I drive for 5 more, and it does it all over again. Quite annoying. I have the fan on, I don't know what else I should do. Also, all the heatshrink on the batteries melted off:mad:

[SandManRacing]

Look for the same thing as with a standard motor.

- Maybe your ratio is too low (big pinion)

- Maybe your drivetrain is not free enough

- Maybe your pinion is too close to your spur gear

etc.


bye

[crono man]

what is the amp rating? e-maxx should have atleast 100amps controllers

[k_sw31]

Even the stock drivelines?? From what i've heard, i wouldv'e thought they'd fall apart.

Btw, maybe you should try it in your bolink:D ;)

[Popop]

OK Soya
The brave Schulze seemed to do its job under hard conditions ... so the melt-down of the heat-shrink -> STOP USE THEM THAT WAY

To have an idea, heat-shrink comes to melt down only when Amp is too huge (I think about it) OR a short is coming between cells polarities and the pack heats (often due to following poor stock bridges)
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/rcsaga/Boats\Viper/accus%20crames.jpg

I really come to think your Motor is overgeared ...
--What sort of duration did you get ? (please don't do it again !)
If you're not in parallel, count 3min total (goes and stops) along with 2000mAh is BAD ...
-- You didn't talk about the motor : Does it also heat critically ???

Another common issue can be :
1/ pb in the gear train -> Make it turn manually from each wheel w/o the motor ... Must turn freely w/o any hard point ... I say that 'cause I recently broke a teeth with my BAD Spd700Neo Outrage truck and hardly found the cause ... The ESC (Schulze) was the first to work strangely (I was right !)

2/ Wrong motor setup with the ESC ... But you note quickly strange handling and bad control ... (obvious to find)

[Soya]

Originally posted by Popop
OK Soya
The brave Schulze seemed to do its job under hard conditions ... so the melt-down of the heat-shrink -> STOP USE THEM THAT WAY

What?
The motor's temp is fine with that big ol' heatsink. It can't be wired wrong, it either goes forward or reverse, and the middle one stays. I'm using the stock gearing. Run time wasn't too long, probably because of the cheap Peak packs. Pinion-spur mesh is fine; a bit loose if anything. I think I'll put it in my rally car next....

[Popop]

Did you also run it along with serious batts ??
(means both good cells and good wiring)

[Soya]

The wiring is good, the batteries WERE good....

[YoSystmSucks]

Hey dudes I got the hacker/shulze system right now and its got too much power. MY TC shoots out SOOOOOO FAST!! I cant belive it, and my e-maxx does wheelies on command. If I didnt need money I wouldnt be selling this brushless system EVER!, if anyone is looking to buy mu brushless e-maxx look at my post in the BST forum. I just now charged a 1500 pack and ran my TC for 10 min without the ESC getting hot, but I did zip tie a small heat sink onto it, in my e-maxx it gets kinda hot. Also, anyone ever melted a tire? I just tried to see how hot my tires would get, i held my TC in place for 5 sec and i burned myself when I touched the tire and then little rocks got stuck on the treads after I stopped, a full throttle acceleration took those all off, but it left fill tire marks for 5 feet on my wood floors in my room, I shoulda taken pictures b4 I paniced cuz my mom got home...

[k_sw31]

Bolink! Bolink! sorry, i'm just ready to see a bolink go into orbit. :D

[gixxer]

Forget nitro!!

I have the aveox setup and my Losi Lx-t truck goes 38-41mph with a 37/84 gearing on the old trans. Slipper wouldn't hold with that gearing so i'm going to convert it to the old JRX-t type "no slipper" and then the 32 pitch 27/54 combo.

Simply awesome with only 6 cells. It'll probably get 50 mph with that gearing and who knows how fast with 10 cells.

And yes all my speed is recorded with my radar gun and my mp6 inferno with 13T clutchbell and Os V01B only goes 38 so my stupid electric truck is faster for the moment.

[k_sw31]

what kind of run time do you get?

Can ya lift the wheels pretty easily with that gearing?

[Soya]

I just put the BL stuff in my rally, but the reciever pack isn't working, perhaps I'll borrow my friend's reciever....
I need new tires for the Bolink; they're shredded (not to mention the car's in several pieces;)). Alas, I have no money:(

[Soya]

Oh, about that tire melting thing. When I first got my D4, I put it in my rally. At the time, I had Proline LP2 slicks, and 4-TEC shocks. I set it on my front walkway, and yanked on the trigger. It left tire marks for about 6'. Wow, did that thing have power. Perhaps I'll post a pic tomorrow.

[k_sw31]

wow, six feet of tire marks, sweet, i'll have to get some slick for my t3.

[Soya]

It was weird. I did it like 10 months ago, and the area where the streaks were is brighter than the rest of the sidewalk:confused:

[k_sw31]

maybe you should start a street cleaning company, lol

[Soya]

Riiiight:)
It's kinda hard to see in the pic, but it's been there for almost a year:eek:

[Soya]

Here's my setup for the rally. It still overheats, I've tried changing the frequency, still doesn't help, I still don't know what's wrong:confused:

[rawbert]

Guess what

I just ordered my setup - Aveox RC7 and L160RC ESC.... I can't wait!!! It's going in a off road truck, so I will tell you how it is next week!

[k_sw31]

maybe you should try running the motor w/ out a car, see if it still gets hot that way.

[Soya]

Yeah, good idea.

[k_sw31]

hey u guys, i was thinking, should i pay the xtra ten bux for the lehner 70 amp esc for better brakes, or would 40 a be fine?

[SandManRacing]

I think you should go with the 70 AMPs. Better go higher than lower. A brushless motor in a car or truck draw between 50 and 65 AMPs I think. I have read about that somewhere...

Bye

[Promod]

Soya, I could see that controller heating up on the E-maxx but not on a rally car. The 18.61 amp rating is hardly enough for a heavy E-maxx. What setting do you have the timing set at? Do you have the controller set up for car mode? Did the system act the same in the rally or was it better?

Thank you,
Promod

[k_sw31]

yea, better be safe than sorry, it's just ten buxs anyways.

[Soya]

It's on timing mode 5, yes it's set for car. I'm not sure what you mean by did the system act the same in the rally or was it better.

[k_sw31]

YES! :D just ordered my brushless setup today!!!! Lehner 5300 and warrior 7018, yes! :cool: :D

[k_sw31]

promod- the schulze 18.61 has cont. amps of 61, with a peak of 81 amps.

[Soya]

My problems are getting stranger and stranger. I was out driving my rally (crap, it was fast), and everytime I hit reverse it would stop. It would go in reverse for however long, and when I tried to go foward, it did nothing. I thought it was 83 peak, but maybe not.

[k_sw31]

81, 83, doesn't matter, does it?

[Soya]

I suppose not:)

[SandManRacing]

Does anyone has a Hacker C40 motor ?

I want to know if they can be opened to replace the bearings and maybe clean it.

They don't seem to have any screw on the pictures.

Thanks

[k_sw31]

it looks like the end cap above the wires may screw off.

[Popop]

Interesting !!
:p :p :p

[Popop]

Hey Soya
I don't know if you already tried to test the motor w/o any load but my Electronicmodel manual says exactly NOT to do it ...
(Never make it run under no load)

I don't know if it's also true for your stuff but chances are ... :confused:

[Soya]

Yeah. I think I'll put it in my Bolink after school, which has very low friction drivetrain.

[k_sw31]

lets see, if i were to get a 32 pitch 30 tooth pinion wit ha 66 spur, would be about 65:D

[k_sw31]

speaking of which, soya, where did u get a 35 tooth pinion, i can only find 22 for 32 pitch

[Soya]

It's 48 pitch. There's also a 58 tooth spur, 48 pitch:eek: :D

[k_sw31]

oh, then where do you find a 58 tooth spur, i can only find 72

[Soya]

It was at my LHS, sitting in a corner. It's a Robinson Racing one, I know that for sure. Try their website.

[k_sw31]

insane gear ratio, hear i come!

[Soya]

What are you going to put it in?

[Popop]

Soya, I think you're now ready for this new 'car' design !
:p :p

[GTpanda]

there's a lot talking about the novak system, I don't want to go into tech discussions, jus would like to know what you think about the rated power: 110W... isn't that LESS than a p2k (=stock motor)?

I've been waiting so long and are so bewildered now that I'll probably wait a little more...

I definitely want something good for racing a touring car, not something to do wheelies with a car!!! ;-)) but neither a system that for that money will not go further than a stock motor... smooth as it may be...

:confused: :confused: :confused:

[Popop]

I really hesitate to answer to DerekB about it ... Seems a brave guy anyway ...
But ... Fortunately there's tons of others stuffs to forget about it !!

[Soya]

Originally posted by Popop
Soya, I think you're now ready for this new 'car' design !
:p :p
HAHA, funny! I'm about to run it now, I tried it with 6 cells, vibrated so much the tires almost flew apart, can't wait for 12:D

[k_sw31]

its gonna go in my t3.

Wow, only 110 watts, my lehner will have a 1000+ :rolleyes:

[crono man]

the novak is actually 110w per volt...so that should put it in the 660 watts range pretty good for buggy use:)

[rawbert]

hey guys. im getting the aveox rc7 / l160rc combo tommorow and im going to run a LOSI 2WD Electric truck (MFE). i plan on running 88 spur and 18 tooth pinion at first, i want to know how tight should i tighten the differential, and how tight should i set my slipper at?

[k_sw31]

i heard you want to lock the slipper, and it'll still slip.

Wow, i guess it will actually have 790 watts, which is over one hp.
7.2X110=792, pretty good

[gixxer]

i plan on running 88 spur and 18 tooth pinion

Put it this way. My slipper still slips and i'm running 84/and the largest pinion they sell 30? Rc7 is a low rpm motor and it has gobs of torque. The 18 will run just as fast with a stock motor and it'll probably wouldn't only move the slipper with the truck stationary :D.

[Soya]

The largest pinion is 36 for 48 pitch. I ran the Bolink, it sucked. It hooked to the left when I hit the throttle, and it overheated within 30 seconds. Piss:( :mad:

[k_sw31]

well, what would u expect, 36/60 (i think) direct drive...


Soya, about your overheating problem, peter schulze has a profile on hear, you could try sending him a private message...

[Soya]

How do I find him?

[Popop]

Try this one :
mail@schulze-elektronik.com

....

Bestell-Telefon:061 50 / 13 06-5 (für Ihre Anfragen und Bestellungen)

Technik-Hotline:061 50 / 13 06-98 (für technische Beratung)

Fax: 061 50 / 13 06-99

Internet:http://www.schulze-elektronik.com
eMail:mail@schulze-elektronik.com

[RC_snoopy]

Originally posted by SandManRacing
Does anyone has a Hacker C40 motor ?

I want to know if they can be opened to replace the bearings and maybe clean it.

They don't seem to have any screw on the pictures.

Thanks
Yes, The Hacker C40 motors can be dismantled for cleaning if neccessary. You just remove the grub screw on the end and unscrew the endbell.
Had mine for almost 6 months running touring cars and it's still clean inside. I'd only open it up for cleaning maybe if you run alot of offroad, just to check for any sand.
Brushless forever!

[Soya]

Thanks Popop:)

[rawbert]

I just bought the Aveox RC7 / L160RC speed controller and tried putting it in, I am having trouble. Maybe one of you guys can help me?

I can't get it set up correctly. I hit the button, wait for it to blink, then hit it again (for neutral) and it blinks twice, but when I try to pull full throttle, and hit the button, it just slowly blinkss three times, instead of beeping fast. So I thought "OK, that's normal", and hit full brake and hit the button, but it just then blinks one time, like it's at the beginning again.

If I do the whole process over, but instead of "full power", I hit "full brake". It then blinks three times FAST, like it should, and I hit "full gas" instead of "full brake", and the light turns off and it works now if I hit full brake, it will go full throttle, and when I hit full throttle it will go into break. It's reversed. Also when I hit full brake so it goes into full throttle, the motor pinion spins BACKWARDS, like it's in reverse, not foward.

Any ideas how to fix it? I don' know why it doesn't set-up correctly when hitting full throttle, I have to switch it with full brake.

Thank you;
Rob

[Fossil-RC]

Im looking for a good brushless motor for my Micro RS4. I hear the aveox is a good start for one, but where could i buy one directly.

[k_sw31]

um... i don't think aveox makes the right size motor for a micro. But i could be mistaken.

I know hacker's b20 will fit and also i think the lehner 10 series will fit at http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/10_series.htm

[DamianD1]

Rawbert,

It looks to me that you should change the throttle switch on your transmitter to reverse its action.

[SandManRacing]

Thanks RC_snoopy for the info ! :)

[MarNaDaKi]

Rawbert
and all who have Aveox system:

Apart from Aveox .com, could you list a couple of place where I could buy an RC7/L160RC combo?

Because on Aveox.com they are freaky expensive compared to Lehner 4200/7018 on RumRunnerhobbies.com which is a comparable system.

[rawbert]

I got mine for $259.00 + $6 shipping from a guy on eBay - his username is "gliders". E-Mail him and he will usually have one for sale.

[Soya]

It rained all day, and I want to drive my E-maxx in the mud, but I'm too lazy to change the electronics:(

[crono man]

hey guys just a headsup..i just read the review of the orion bl setup in the rc-car november issue

hits;
-at least 8min of runtime(8turn motor with 3000hv)
-they had to start in 2nd gear because the motor was making to much torque..willy instantly (1 motor and 6cells only)
-very smooth throttle

cons;
it overheated with a 18t pinion and had to drop it to 15tooth

pretty cool for a 86bux ferrite motor;)

[k_sw31]

ha! my lehner will have nine mis of runtime on 2400's :D

The sytem sounds great, unfortunatly, i havn't got my mag yet :(

[Soya]

My controller doesn't work anymore. Got wet. Very angry.

[rawbert]

OH MY GOD, WHO EVER WANTS ME 11 AND 12 TURN TRIPLE CAN TAKE IT, BRUSHLESS RULES!!!

LOL, ok, seriously, I just finished everything. I cannot believe how fast it is. My hall way isnt that big, and its straight, so I can run the track full throttle for a second and stop, well I did this for about 2-3 minutes, and my speed control was hot, but the motor wasn't. It's a Aveox RC7 / L160RC combo.. I know this speed controller goes off if it gets too hot, but I didnt expect it to be this hot, I can touch it with my hands and not let go, but is there a way for it to cool better? This was without the body on, btw, so the body on when I race won't help...

I heard you can hook a small fan to it, if so.. how?

Rob

[k_sw31]

i'll take em, seriously. Sounds great, i heard a heatsink helps, if it doesn't already have one.

[Timmy]

Hey guys I am looking to get into BL also. I have been looking at a warries 7018 with a Lehner 5300. I think it a pertty nice set-up. It be about 250 from runrummer's. Now if you do the math you get about 38,000rpm from 7.2 volts. Is that enough to push the TC3 to 45mph or not. Is there any system out there for under 300 that have more like 6000-7000rpm/volt. I like to have at least 45,000rpms. I guess I could just run 7 cells but I'd rather not. Hmm 12 cells. Also has anyone heard anything about Novak system. Isn't one suppose to have 51,000rpms. Now that is more like it. I am not really concerned about how much tourqe they make more on how high the RPM can go. If anyone has put this system or similar in a TC3 what upgrades have you done to deal with all the extra power. Thanks guys

Tim

[k_sw31]

thats the exact setup i've ordered, it should push your tc3 to about 45, as top speeds in a t3 are 40-43 mph. But, all you have to do is gear up for more speed, as they use neodyme magnets for tons of torque.

[SandManRacing]

I'll buy my brushless setup this weekend !

Hacker C40-8S
Hacker Car controler

I hope the LHS will still have some in stock.

Can't wait to see the results. I'll put this on my RC10T3 FT.

Bye

[tc3punk]

I was told by MaxximumAIR on the maxx traxx boards:
"The 4200 is better suited to more cells.... that is all. The 5300 can and will make more power at any RPM than the 4200 on 6-10 cells. You could run the 5300 on 12 cells, but you would be pushing it past is 65,000 rpm redline and could throw a magnet. "

I can't wait to get my 1520/6 and 1870 controller fo my tc3 :D :D :D

-Nic

[k_sw31]

correct me if i'm wrong, but i think the lehner 15 series is to small in diameter for standard rc cars, its the 19 series and the basic series i'm pretty sure that work for standard rc cars; i think the 15 series is to small in diameter.

You would be much better off with the 5300 or the 4200 depending on how many cells u r running.

[crono man]

k_sw1 is right the 15series are to small the mounting holes are 19mm apart and a standard 540 has them at 25mm..

[WhoKnowsWho]

Well, I got my Warrior 7018 and Basic 5300 motor. And after some false starts in my 4-Tec (lost a screw, threw the pinion, threw a tire off) I finally was able to run a bit until the batteries dumped too low to use.

I used the stock gearing for the 20 turn motor, and cogging is present. I am going to try lowering the gearing. Most of what I have read also says to try adding a receiver pack to help it out. The top speed is insane, I hope my 4-Tec survives it's trips into space.

Until I can alleviate some of the cogging, it is a bit disappointing. I see promise, but I need to order a lot of pinion gears for the different vehicles I want to try it in.

It wasn't running too hot, then again, I couldn't really get it to go consistently with the cogging. This is going to be a long project to find good gearing for everything.

6 cells is fine for the 4-Tec, I think the E-Maxx will be the best recipient of 12 cells, though in series or parallel I am not sure now.

[k_sw31]

how long did your batts run?

[Timmy]

I am not familar with cogging. What the heck is it. So the system runs pertty good then. I also want to get what you have and put it in a TC3. Would you say the top speed is about 50mph on 6 cells.

[WhoKnowsWho]

Cogging needs to be added to the RC dictionary... you apply full throttle, and it just kinda sits down trying to find the first phase to rotate the motor. The warrior insructions say it's a safety feature. It's supposed to do it for .3 secs to make sure there are no high surges that take power away from the servo.

I couldn't measure the run time, run it, tire flies off, run it, scew disappears, run it, pinion flies off, run it, dumps. It really lets you know when it dumps, it will not go above a certain speed, it will start to cog at higher speeds since there is not enough battery power to get it there. Which actually made it easier to drive!

I need to setup a speed trap. So far, it looks faster than my HPI RS4 SS. I think this is too much motor for the 4-Tec, maybe if I can find the graphite chassis it will be a little more controllable.

Anyone else have the warrior and know how to disable the BEC? There is a small black jumper that I am supposed to be able to take off, but it only moves a little, I'm a bit scared to apply more force since the orange jumper came off so easily.

I think I am going to move it to the Stampede for now.

[RC_snoopy]

Cogging is something that is common with brushless motors.
it is due to the speed controller trying to get polarisation of the coils into phase with the position of the magnets on start-up

[WhoKnowsWho]

Well, got a 22 tooth pinion for it, the cogging was a lot less present now, and the top speed is more controllable. Feels overall a lot smoother. Couldn't try it with an external receiver pack, didn't work right when I removed the BEC jumper, don't know why. Lost the same screw again too, now I am out of spares and I have to mail order some. Did run for at least 15 minutes up and down the street, and half throttle was about the top speed of the original stinger. Either the E-Maxx with some 12/66 gearing or the Stampede will receive the motor while I wait for screws. I think I need to order the 4200 motor for the Maxx so I can run 12 cells in series, it's too much for the 5300 and will most likely kill it and the speed controller.

[k_sw31]

cool :cool:

[Soya]

Yeah, I need a smaller pinion for my Maxx also. Perhaps that'll cool things off a bit:)

[RC_snoopy]

Originally posted by WhoKnowsWho
Well, got a 22 tooth pinion for it, the cogging was a lot less present now, and the top speed is more controllable. Feels overall a lot smoother. Couldn't try it with an external receiver pack, didn't work right when I removed the BEC jumper, don't know why. Lost the same screw again too, now I am out of spares and I have to mail order some. Did run for at least 15 minutes up and down the street, and half throttle was about the top speed of the original stinger. Either the E-Maxx with some 12/66 gearing or the Stampede will receive the motor while I wait for screws. I think I need to order the 4200 motor for the Maxx so I can run 12 cells in series, it's too much for the 5300 and will most likely kill it and the speed controller.

12/66 is way too high. I run either a 11/72 or 10/72 for a 4600 motor. This works very well and plenty of runtime and performance.

[k_sw31]

man i cant wait for my bl, tuesday or wendsday.

It 'll be fun driveing through the grass, espeicialy with mashers on,

BTW, i made a wheelie bar out of k'nex :rolleyes: I doubt it'll hold up long, but its worth a try.

[Soya]

Hey, I might try that. I bought an 8 tooth pinion from Tower, maybe it won't get so hot now. Oh, and the stock pinion fell off today:(

[k_sw31]

8 teeth ?

Whats that like a micro rs4 pinion ? lol

I ran quite a few batteries through my t3, and it held up through a lot of jumping, only thing is the zip ties broke, need a better way of securing it.

[Soya]

Well, I wanted less cogging and more torque:)

[k_sw31]

Yes! :D HAHAHA! *maniacal laugh* just got my bl setup, gonna go hook it up now:D :D

[k_sw31]

how do u guys think i should put a flat spot on the motor? Dremel?

Also, i'm sorta nervous of stuff getting in the motor where the wires are, any ideas? OH yeah, which wires plug into which, or does it matter?

[k_sw31]

well, i just ran it, cogged like hell, so i threw a reciever pack on, didn't cog but, well, had less troque and speed than my 15 turn quad. :mad: I'm running 16/87, whats wrong??!?!?!:mad:

I think my battery maybe killed, i'm charging up another so we'll see.

[Soya]

Yeah, I know what you mean. BL is one problem after another:(
My BL has destroyed 3 of my batteries:(

[k_sw31]

it's odd, the bl runs great with my two 3000's, but, my 1500's don't even work with it.

My motor and speed control don't get hot, just sorta warm, but my batteries, its amazing!

[RC_snoopy]

Originally posted by k_sw31
it's odd, the bl runs great with my two 3000's, but, my 1500's don't even work with it.

My motor and speed control don't get hot, just sorta warm, but my batteries, its amazing!

Theres no reason it should'nt work with your 1500's unless theres something wrong with the packs.
We've tested with every type of pack, and it works fine with all packs.
:D

[k_sw31]

well, for some reason, it just doesn't work well with my 1500's.

Any ways,i don't need to program my warrior do i? I thought these things were supposed to have extreme torque (the motors) yet my t3 doesn't even pop a wheelie.

Also, why do my batteries get so hot?

[Soya]

Amp draw, my friend:)