Brushless Motor Forum v1.0

[Soya]

True Value, but lots of places probably have it; Menards, Lowe's, Home Depot....

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Soya
I bought a tube of Goop Marine for $4.79:)

What the hell is goop marine?

[Soya]

Well, Goop is a type of flexible adhesive that dries quickly. The marine stuff is waterproof:

[k_sw31]

so its basically shoe goo and sealant combined?

[Soya]

Something like that:)

[k_sw31]

so how would you waterproof esc's and stuff with it?

[Soya]

.

[Soya]

I'm putting all that stuff in a radiobox and then sealing it.

[k_sw31]

I should steal ur idea and get a radio box for my t3, or make one.

[RCmaniac324]

hey guys. i was wondering: has ne one run this setup? i will b running it in my 5-6lb (fully loaded w/ brushed setup) 2WD ST. I have a few questions:

1. will i need a slipper clutch to protect my drivetrain, or will just properly meshed gears/careful throttle control do fine?
2. is cogging a major issue with a truck of this weight/type while using the BEC, running 8 cells, and gearing 72/23 (wanna take advantage of the torque)? if there are, will adding a reciever pack eliminate this problem(i have heard that it does)?
3. how long is the delay when switching from forward to reverse and vice versa?
4. is the warrior programmable in any way? i ask because their site states everywhere that no, it isnt, yet they used to offer a combo of it, the motor, and the computer programming software for it. :confused: i dont get y they would give u the software if it wasnt programmable :confused:
5. y do the wires need to b at or under 4 inches?

thanx.

[k_sw31]

ya, i have it in my t3

1, you should get one

2, it is, you wanna use a rx pack, and remove the bec jumper, i wouldn't go up past 7 more teeth on the pinion than stock, as it would coz the motor to cog, even w/ and rx pack.

4, it is, instuctions at, http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/PowerSolutions.htm

5, i think it causes glitching but i'm not really sure about it

[Soya]

Wake up guys, keep postin':)

[RCmaniac324]

Does any one know how long it takes to switch from forward to reverse and vice versa with a warrior 7018 controller and 5300 motor???

[micropunk]

ask KB,
he had a vid of his E going forward/reverse, in the maxxtraxx/video forum...

basicly, pretty quick

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by RCmaniac324
Does any one know how long it takes to switch from forward to reverse and vice versa with a warrior 7018 controller and 5300 motor???

Well, depends, you ca nsetup the controller so it goes fwd-b-rev. or you can do strait from forward to reverse

[Soya]

My Shulze is about 2.5 seconds:(

[k_sw31]

Waiting..................... Argh! my t3's collecting dust. :(

[RCmaniac324]

same here, except i dont have a t3. im $80 (maybe less if rum runner starts another combo, because on their site it says "christmas specails starting November 1st") away form getting the bl system, a slipper clutch (a must have:) ), and a replacement part for where i have stripped out a screw hole on one part of my truck. oh well. at least i just got my dad to buy me a cheap brushed motor to play with untill i get it(last one burned out and had brushes about 3/16" long :p . i wore 'em down till the rest of the motor wore out, and with comm drops the whole way they still didnt die first!!!!!!)

BTW, my truck is an MRC Ironman. don't laugh, ive had good experiences with this truck (its my first hobby-quality one), and i would reccomend it to any noob looking for a cheap ($100-$110 kit + radio, battery, etc. but it comes with the motor) and durable first truck. i have launched it 7 ft in the air many times, crashed it, flipped it, rolled it, and been run over by a maxx twice, and the most that usually ever happened to me was a bust shock.(not broken, just poped open. easily refilled and re sealed) and maybe a bent hinge pin or two but i bent that back straight with pliers. ive had it for almost a full year, and i am just buying my first. replacement part, a rear arm hub (stripped a screw when a maxx ran over it). if u have ne questions about it, e mail me, or start a new thread or something, and ill get back to u.

Sorry, i know i am long winded, i am just very proud of how i managed to match a maxx's speed w/ a 12T speed gems 2 (not a pro one. and worn in for a few months at the time too) and a crap radioshack battery pack (3000mAh) in this truck. imagine my speeds when i go 8-cell brushless :D :p :cool: *drool, drool* ill kick any nitro car in town's butt!!!!!!!!hehe. i love bein insane :D .

[k_sw31]

Today i was so desperate, (my track is now pretty well sorted out, just needs some jumps) I stuck a speed gems 2 armuture in a p2k2 can and endbells, it actually worked pretty well, hehe.

[PCC]

I have an old HPI Pro sitting around that I was building for a "Beetle Cup" series that never happened at a not-so-local LHS. I got the car set up with the NRS4 Racer2 suspension so it is 200mm in width (the spec body for the series being the HPI Beetle Cup is 200mm - I'll be running a VDS Lola body for the time being). So, I decided to build this car as a brushless electric terror for my local RC hang-out where the faster guys run modified .12's, bigblock converted NTC3's (no kidding, they're FAST!!!), 1/8 on-roads, and stuff. The setup I have decided on is the Lehner 1920/5 with a 1870 BEC controller running six cells. Will I be competitive with these guys? Someone once ran a Pro3 with a 6T double there and scared most of the regulars but the faster guys blew him away! Any advice would be appreciated.

I just wanted to add, you guys are a bad influence! ;) TIA!

[rcnitrorush99]

I am looking at cars and I am starting to save up for a HPI Micro RS4. i am looking into getting a better motor when i get my car beucause i know the stock is real slow. i was looking at the Big Block and i was wondering is it a brushless or no? if it is will i have to keep changing brushes alot if all im using it for is jsut leasure driving jsut on the street?
i hope not bc that will be a pain to have to keep changing them thanks hope someone can help thanks

[RCmaniac324]

No it is not a brushless motor. even if it was, u wouldnt have to replace brushes, hence the name brushless

if i am not mistaken, u are looking at the team orion big block conversion, right? if so, i believe that is a closed endbell motor, and therefore is unable to b serviced, so u wont even need to worry about it, it is made to wear for a long time b4 giving out.

[rcnitrorush99]

thanks for the info i didnt know that brushlesses had to have brushes ptu in them i jsut thoug hit didint need them but i guess not. ok good i wont have to worry about the brushes . thanks for the info ttyl

[k_sw31]

Well, yes, the bb isn't a brushless motor, but, it think thesehttp://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/10_series.htm

will work (i think)

[MarNaDaKi]

Finally got it yesterday :D and installed it today.

I know that the controller installation is on the wacky side but I had no other choice. Its too long to fit between the motor and the servo. I did not want to install it sideway either cause it protrude too much and would take the impact should a car hit me on the side.

All the wires are not looking that clean, but it will get the job done for now.

For all Blazer and Blazer sport pistol grip owner, forget using that radio system with a Master Car sport controller. That's because the travel ratio between forward and brake (or reverse) is too far away from 50/50. It's more like 75/25 and for that matter, the controller always thinks you are trying to enter the setup mode. Therefore, you never get the ready beep. It's a chance I had a Futaba Magnum Jr lying around so I could swap radio system. This time, I heard the ready beep on the first power-up. If anybody succeeded installing it with a Blazer, let me know how. I would prefer this option.

It's written in the manual to pay attention to the "Beep" from the controller. WRONG. The beep come from the motor. On the first couple of minutes, I though I had a defective unit.

No wires and no connectors in the box. So make sure you have the necessary hardwares upon reception.

I made a quick test on the kitchen floor.

O. M. G.

I know now what the word "TORQUE" mean :p
I now worry for my car's drive train :(

I just wanted to let you know my first impressions. Tomorrow, I will try to make also a short recap of my first day at the track.

[MarNaDaKi]

I was forgetting...

[MarNaDaKi]

I can also add this...

Affraid of the possibility of cogging, I dropped 5 teeth on the pinion compared with what I used to run with my P2K. Even with this much smaller pinion, when I snapped the throttle against the case, I could see from the balooning tire and the sound that the wheels were turning way way way faster.

Last thing. From a dead stop, if you try to slowly begin moving, you will not be able. You have to pass, say, the 1/4 forward throttle mark and then it will start moving and fast. Only then, if you decrease slowly the throttle input, you will slow to a crawl if you want.

Keep in mind that I am new to this brushless world. Everything I wrote should be taken with a grain of salt.... ;)

[Soya]

You think your wires are bad? Check mine out!

[Buff]

rcnitrorush99.....not to rag on you, but man you really need to do some proof-reading bro....when I was reading your post, my eyes started to cross and roll in the back of my head....:D

[Popop]

>It's written in the manual to pay attention to the "Beep" from >the controller. WRONG. The beep come from the motor.

Funny!
Here's the great secret : ALL escs do the same ... They use the Motor as a beeper ... Keep the secret :p :p

Have some of you already used GPS units in order to communicate reliable speed measurements ... not those 'AT LEAST 50MPH' cause it looks cool ...?

I'll be pleased to discover these 'true' performances !
And it could give a good idea of what can be achieved now ...
Not those boring 'I'm faster than you all' ... ;)

[RCmaniac324]

Poppop- i believe u are raggin on me when u said the whole 50 MPH thing, cuz i estimated that in an earlier post. i was simply sayin, that with a cr@p pack and a speed gem two 12x2 i was able to match a maxx's speed (which i think we all know is about 30 stock), so it is only logical that with a faster, much more efficient, and much more powerful (about 5 times, if not more, as powerful than my current brushed setup) brushless motor running on 8 cells (instead of the 6 the gem was runnin on) and possibly geared higher than the gem was that i will see significant increse in speed, so as such i estimated 50+ MPH (i also did some math to help me be confident this is a good estimate). Of course, once i have my system (hopefully soon:p ) I will take an accurate measurement and post it for all to see.

PS: i believe i stated most of this in my earlier post to back it up(but u obviously didnt read the info), so next time, read the whole post b4 u start bashin on people. :)

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by MarNaDaKi


Last thing. From a dead stop, if you try to slowly begin moving, you will not be able. You have to pass, say, the 1/4 forward throttle mark and then it will start moving and fast. Only then, if you decrease slowly the throttle input, you will slow to a crawl if you want.



ReaLLY? Hummmm. My lehner 7018 in my t3 can crawl along, just above a few mph slowly, from a dead stop.


Hey soya, ya know how you were joking me about how i kept posting that pic of my t3? Well, I've seen that pic about 5 times also, :rolleyes: ;)

[Soya]

Actually, I've posted it 3 times. Twice here, and once in the E-maxx forum:)

[k_sw31]

Good! I'm still in the lead then! ;)

[Soya]

In a weird sort of way, yes:)

[k_sw31]

I AM THE BEST!!!!!!!!!!!! :D ;)

[Soya]

You can get down off your soapbox now;)

[vladivad]

Marnadaki-
Nice set up. I am still waiting for mine to come. Is your motor the short type or the long? I got the short because of the tc3 chassis. I am wondering how much difference there is torque wise. I don`t know if you guys remember but like a month ago I was saying how bad my aveox was acting. Well I got my airtronics m8 last week and now it runs as smooth as my brushed motors. I guess fm matters in my case. I ordered the hacker cause I was not happy with the aveox but now that it is running perfectly I will have two bl systems.:eek:

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Soya
You can get down off your soapbox now;)

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NEVER!!!!!!!!!! ok, whatever :rolleyes:

[SandManRacing]

Who makes a titanium or aluminium diff for a RC10T3 ? I saw that Robinson Racing is selling an aluminium diff for the RC10GT but I don't think the part is the same as the T3.

Thanks

[vladivad]

Sandman-
I was just wondering about the same thing for my tc3. I believe hardcore racing makes one. Not 100% sure.

[Popop]

<PS: i believe i stated most of this in my earlier post to back it up
<(but u obviously didnt read the info), so next time, read the <whole post b4 u start bashin on people.

RCMAniac, be sure you were not targeted (I even didn't remember any post of you :p) ... as few other guys as well ...

The fact is, good information is really helpful for all ... And I like to learn from the others experiences as well as all others do ...
Happy to know you'll give us such information

Regs
Popop

[DamianD1]

Popop,

I was also thinking about using GPS in order to get accurate measurements like max speed, runtime, distance, etc., but I could not find a standalone unit small and light enough. Have you found one?

[SandManRacing]

Thanks for the answer vladivad.

I just took a look at Hardcore Racing web site (http://www.racinghardcore.com/index2.htm) and they don't make titanium diff for T3 or TC3.

Someone knows another company ?

[Soya]

Try Hammad Ghuman: www.1hg.com

[RCmaniac324]

Popop- sry about that reply. i was just not in the greatest of moods that night (couldnt get my hopefully last brushed motor to work reliably, kept having the throttle cut out mysteriously, while the ESC was workin fine with another motor. finally tracked it down to a bad brush spring today, and there is definately a noticeable increse in speed form a 12x2 to a 11x2:D . but, so i wont have to spend time and money in the future[and so i can go even faster:D ], i am going brushless soon. as soon as i get enough $$$) I will try to restrain myself in the future.

I will still post my speed once i get the system and get it configured for the best speed/acceleration balance, however.

[SandManRacing]

Thanks Soya. Hammad Ghuman is making an alluminium diff for T3.

#1848 Alloy Diff Gear $19.95

[MarNaDaKi]

vladivad

My motor is the short type. Torque wise, compared to the long one, I don't know either. But I know for sure that this motor is not lacking in the torque department.

I am glad you mentionned that thing about your glitch and the M8. Because I also have an occasionnal glitch and was wondering if an FM radio system would resolve this. Poor drive train. When the glitch occur, you should hear that "CLACK" sound from the gears. Ouchhh... I cann't say for sure what it is, but it's like if the motor would go into reverse for a fraction of a second. What is even more strange, is that the problem is much more present with one specific battery.

I also have a digital steering servo. I know that usually, brushless controller hate digital servo cause they are too power hungry. Might try a swap for an analogue servo to see if it helps my glitch thingy.

[k_sw31]

Ya, it is recommended if you are using a hi-torque servo that you use a reciever pack.

[vladivad]

That`s right. Even when your not using a digital servo, having a reciever pack usually cures glitching problems. So having that servo more than likely is causing that glitch. I`m glad you brought that up Marnandaki because I was thinking about buying a digital servo and was wondering if it was compatible with bl systems. If you ever try out the analog servo tell me if it made a difference.:)

[k_sw31]

well guys, i am now confused. :confused: :confused:


I think my brushless setup never ran properly.
Reasons:

1. i just majorly cleaned my old speedgems 2 13x3 up, comparing to my brushless, it had about 75% more torque.

2. with my 13x3, it was only about 5 mph slower :(

Either something was never working properly or it was this. I noticed my diff was slipping a ton! So i rebuilt it, so maybe it was the diff slipping and i never noticed it. :(

Aw well, i guess i'll know when my controller gets back.

[Popop]

DamianD1
Sorry for my late answer ... I only read the last posts this day ...

Concerning the GPS solution, I purchased a brave Garmin E-Trex and find it good. My choice was oriented by many other FE boat modelers who found the E-trex a reliable invest to measure their max speed ...
So I plan to use it either on my boats (the e-trex is sealed) or cars ... I'm still not sure about using it in my airplanes ... Note these last are also on the light side ... Many of them weight under 1kg so the 150g Etrex would be noticeable for them ... Obviously they also crash more often than my boats or cars ;)

The bad point is currently I really can't find time to test my cars on good AND open surface : The GPS needs some 50m+ to catch the max speed and requires also no buildings in order to keep good signal from satellites ... This kind of area is quite far from my home and needs to me to prepare several cars in that way ... I hope to organize such campaigns with working colleguas but that's still hard to realize ...

I really want to know the exact speed of my TGX-Neodym, TB01-B/L and Mad Bee ... What I only know is that the Mad Bee runs at 37kph on wet grass (rainy day) ... but no more ...

Bye

Popop
www.rcsaga.com

[DamianD1]

Popop,

Which version of the Etrex did you get. I found at the Garmin site that there are several models (Legend, Venture, Vista, Camo) and how much did you pay for it?

Do you know of anyone using the Casio PRT2 watch? It seems smaller and lighter but I do not know if it is any good.

[Popop]

I wanted to invest a minimum for an onboard system so the yellow 'basic' e-trex was my choice. It costed about 110US$ only with shipping.
Prior to buy it I also had a glance on other stuffs and noted the Casio unit ... as for telemetry systems ... The Casio seemed to me quite a gadget and I found it expensive ... Perhaps this changed now

For example, you can get that kind of telemetry system equipped with GPS mouse (http://www.flyheli.de/english/eel_airtel6.htm)... It can save both Amp, Voltage, Speed and Rpm ... Very interesting if you want to optimize your models ... Heli or F5D, F5B racers use such solutions ...

Simprop produces a B/L esc that saves RPM, Amp or related informations ... Could be also an issue for next generation R/C car gadgets ... "IT will gain our hobby" you know

Sure Novak or similar companies could use this idea ... they already offer systems that help ESC programming ... Could be a less invest / huge revenue idea ... and a distinctive mark compared to other Air-Boat-Car B/L systems ...

Bye

[krisI.925]

does any one know when rumrunnerhobbies will be getting a new shipment of ESCs in. I think its been like a month since i ordered mine.

[RC_snoopy]

Originally posted by MarNaDaKi
I can also add this...

Affraid of the possibility of cogging, I dropped 5 teeth on the pinion compared with what I used to run with my P2K. Even with this much smaller pinion, when I snapped the throttle against the case, I could see from the balooning tire and the sound that the wheels were turning way way way faster.

Last thing. From a dead stop, if you try to slowly begin moving, you will not be able. You have to pass, say, the 1/4 forward throttle mark and then it will start moving and fast. Only then, if you decrease slowly the throttle input, you will slow to a crawl if you want.

Keep in mind that I am new to this brushless world. Everything I wrote should be taken with a grain of salt.... ;)

If you want a smoother throttle response on the Hacker esc, then change your frequency up to the higher options 16kHz or 32kHz this will definitely smooth out your throttle
:D

[MarNaDaKi]

vladivad
Go ahead if you want a digital servo. I tried two different analogue servo this weekend with exact same result ; still some occasionnal glitches. So obviously, my digtital servo is not the glitch culprit.

I also tried a different radio system. A Hitec Lynx FM. Exact same result again. :eek: :eek: :eek:

Wow, the only electronic thing left is the C40/Master Car combo. I even got the permission to turn the track neon lights off. Same result. :confused: :confused: :confused:

Maybe that brushless controller is very sensitive to static electricity build-up. So I am going to try Static Guard and a different set of tires next weekend. If I still get those glitches, I quit. :mad: ...... No way...... :) We get addicted to that crazy power. :p

Anybodies have other suggestions for glitches culprit ?



Snoopy
Which pistol grip are you using with your Master Car ?

[k_sw31]

Believe it or not, but i've discovered a chewed up spur or pinion can cause glitching.

[MarNaDaKi]

k_sw31
Too easy then. I have tons spurs and pinions just waiting for a spin. It will be quick and cheap to double check...

[Soya]

:)

[k_sw31]

Ya, i really should use a gear cover ;) RPM can fix that! :D

[SandManRacing]

Hi, here are some pics of my brushless setup. I have all this for a while but my camera was broken. Since I just bought a new digital one I made a few shots of my RC10T3 !

Hacker Car Controller
Hacker C40-8S motor

http://24.202.134.202:85/images/photos/rc10t3%202003%20haut.JPG

http://24.202.134.202:85/images/photos/rc10t3%202003%20face.JPG

http://24.202.134.202:85/images/photos/rc10t3%202003%20droite.JPG


Close Up on the motor

http://24.202.134.202:85/autres/hacker%208s.JPG


Close Up on the controller

http://24.202.134.202:85/autres/hacker%20controller.JPG

Bye

SandMan
http://rccars.ca.tc

[RCmaniac324]

Do I spy 10 cells in series going in to that Hacker 8S??????? If i am seeing things correctly, what is the top speed of that truck??? U must be hitting at least 50.

[heretic]

great job sand man i could not read al of the 33 pages on the bl topic so i must ask you all bl experts(compared to me):i own a tc3and would like to switch to bl power.what i don't know is :what should i buy???here in switzerland only orion vortex combos are avaiable through model shop.....i just read ferrite magnets were way less powerful than neo ones,but i m totally lost...
what is the best compromise:sensor or sensor less combos?
what #of combo should i choose,which brand?where can i purchase them?could it be used with only 6 cells?please help thanx

[RCmaniac324]

Heretic-Yes, Neodymium magnets are much more powerful than ferrite magnets. It depends on what your needs are. If you want speed, go with the sensorless. If you want smooth throttle control, go with the senored motors. The thing is: on sensorless setups, if you disable the BEC on the controller (if any) and add a reciever pack and have it programmed just right, they too have a very smooth throttle response, as long as its not over-geared. I would say go sensorless (with neodymium mags) and just add a reciever pack if you need the smoothest control possible, that way u can get speed and smooth control. I would say go with a lehner setup. Get either a 4200 or a 5300 motor (the #s are respective of their RPM/Volt. so the 5300 is faster by 1100 RPMs a volt, but then also gets slightly shorter run times) and a warrior 7018 or a micro 1870 controller, both with their RC car software(10 dollars extra) or it wont work right!!!!!!! (warrior 7018 if low on money, micro 1870 if you want the computer-link capability to re-program it to your needs/wants, as well as just being a better model.) These setups will provide about 5 times the torque/HP of a typical brushed setup, so a slipper clutch (if available) is reccomended to protect your tranny against the awesome power of these motors. If there is none available, just b careful with the throttle, you dont want sudden jolts of power to strip gears, twist driveshafts, etc. Some other guys will probably try to tell you to go with a hacker setup, but they are even more torqy and I think are just overkill for a TC3. This setup is lighter and will still provide you with enough power to go blazing fast off the line, as well as being about $100 cheaper. As for where to buy it, you can buy these at www.rumrunnerhobbies.com . they are posting their christmas specials soon, so wait till then to save some $$$ on your setup. And yes, this setup can be safely used with 6-9 cells, max 10 cells, but at 10 cells you'd be bringing the motor within 2000RPM of its limit, and a voltage spike could spell the destruction of the motor, as well as the controller. So to be safe, and still go D@m* fast, stick with 6-9 cells. And also try not to crash into a solid object when using your brand new setup (brick wall, your leg, etc.), because then your whole car (and maybe your leg) will be F.U.B.A.R. :D Hope all this helps.

[SandManRacing]

Hi RC Maniac,

Yes you saw right, this is 10 cells wired in serie. This gives me more than 12v ! (1.2v x 10).

The speed is incredible. It must go about 50 MPH. But this is just a guest. But I'm pretty sure that it is faster than my 1/8 nitro buggy ! And this one must go very near 50 MPH.

The acceleration is also very good. Almost too much. The diff will slip if I hit full throttle at startup. But if I start smoother everything is very good :)

My setup can handle up to 12 cells, but over 10 cells I need to bypass the BEC. I never done it yet.

Bye !

[SandManRacing]

Hi Heretic,

I suggest you go with a sensorless motor and neodyne magnets.

I wouldn't but the orion or novak setup. Those kits offer less power for almost the same price.

Lenher, Hacker, Schulze, etc... they are all good systems.

You can use 6 cells with a BL system. But I had better results with 8 cells and over with my setup. Maybe a receiver pack would be to consider with a 6 cells pack.

But anyway, you won't regret a BL kit compared to a brushed motor. GARANTEED. I would never retern to this OLD technology. Except if your track don't allow it... But this should not be my case.

Hope this help a little.

[MarNaDaKi]

SandMan,

If I don't find the source of that d@mn glitch :mad: soon, I "WILL" regret the purchase of my brushless kit. :(

By the way, which pistol grip or you using ?

[SandManRacing]

I'm using a JR Racing XR3 FM transmitter. No glitch at all. And virtually no cogging.

Try an FM transmitter.

The wires between the motor and ESC shouldn't exceed 4 inches.

The receiver, antenna et ESC must be as far away from the battery and power cables as possible.

The antenna shouldn't touch the chassis if it is in aluminium or graphite.

Use good power connectors. Try Ultra Deans.

Make sure the connectors on the receiver are in good shape. No loose or skinned wires.

Make sure the cristal (frequency) is not loose or broken. Try another to be sure.

Remove all ON/OFF swithes.

Don't use a receiver battery holder, but a soldered pack if you must use one.

Try another transmitter and receiver.

Try another steering servo.

If you still have a big problem of glitches (and not cogging) after this, I give up...

[MarNaDaKi]

SandMan
If you read all my precedent post, you will see that I already did pretty much everything you said.

But, you make me think about something.

I though I was already undergeared (16/61 in .6 module). What if I gear even lower ? Ya.... I will try that.

I am going to order 12, 13 ,14 and 15 teeth pinions from Robinson and see if the glitch/cogging disappear.

I think it's a glitch because it happens not only during acceleration but also when I am slowly coasting:confused: .

[SandManRacing]

Sorry MarNaDaKi I didn't read all your previous posts.

But I wish you good luck with your problem ;)

By the way, if changing your ratio fix the problem, then it wasn't a glitch problem but a cogging problem.

Glitch (in RC use) = radio problem - interferences - the car doesn't respond well to commands

Cog = delay or corse throttle from a brushless motor

Tell me if I am wrong...

Bye :)

[RC_snoopy]

Originally posted by MarNaDaKi
vladivad
Go ahead if you want a digital servo. I tried two different analogue servo this weekend with exact same result ; still some occasionnal glitches. So obviously, my digtital servo is not the glitch culprit.

I also tried a different radio system. A Hitec Lynx FM. Exact same result again. :eek: :eek: :eek:

Wow, the only electronic thing left is the C40/Master Car combo. I even got the permission to turn the track neon lights off. Same result. :confused: :confused: :confused:

Maybe that brushless controller is very sensitive to static electricity build-up. So I am going to try Static Guard and a different set of tires next weekend. If I still get those glitches, I quit. :mad: ...... No way...... :) We get addicted to that crazy power. :p

Anybodies have other suggestions for glitches culprit ?



Snoopy
Which pistol grip are you using with your Master Car ?


I use a KO Vantage 2 stick radio. The radio does'nt really matter, you can select the frequency on your speed controller. The higher frequency really makes it alot smoother on the throttle curve.

[RC_snoopy]

Sandmanracing - Nice setup.

I'm working on a speed record with my tc3 and a Hacker 6S with 9 cells on a velodrome.

[k_sw31]

Sounds fun.


SandManRacing- how did you get those hpi rims to work on the front? How do those tires work? Just imagining since those tires on an rs4 Mt would light up at just about any spedd.

[ElectricThunder]

I have a question, has anyone put a brushless system in a BoLink Digger or Digger 2? Wouldn't that thing have insane speed, or would it just flip right on it's top every time?

[Soya]

I put my BL in my Bolink Pro Stock with 12 cells. I had it overgeared, it hooked to the left, and didn't pursue it any further:(

[SandManRacing]

RC_snoopy I saw a thread about your project. You seems well informed and prepared. I wish you good luck ;) A 6S and 9 cells should be impressive !


k_sw31 the HPI wheels came with adaptors. I must use one for the rear and two for the front. For the rear, the adaptor is made to fit in the hexagon hole of the rim and it has a slot on the other side for the shaft drive pin. On the front, the adaptor is a kind of plastic bushing that has a hole with the exact diameter of the T3 bearings. You must use them, because the HPI front wheels have a bigger hole than the bearings. But everything works fine. They also give some adaptor for other trucks.

The tires are good. They grip well on asphalt and last long. I also have some Pro Line Road Hawgs but I prefere the HPI.

[k_sw31]

Can you give me a pic? I have a set of those tires/rims (I have the adapters for the rear, but i don't know what the front ones look like)

Thanks:)

[SandManRacing]

Ask and you shall receive :)

http://24.202.134.202:85/autres/hpi%20adaptors.JPG

Bye !

[k_sw31]

Oh i get it. :o I thought there were adapters for the back rims to go on the front:rolleyes: It appears to me that there are specially designed rims for the front. :o


Oh yea, are you running them with foam insets or not?:confused:

[SandManRacing]

Yes, you must have the 2 models. Rear and front.

I use the foam inserts that came with the tires.

[k_sw31]

Ok, I see now...

[vladivad]

Hey guys, just got my hacker motor and controller but all the instructions are in german. Anybody know how to get an english version. I remember marnadaki having the same setup. How did you get yours or can you read german?:confused:

[MarNaDaKi]

Hi vladivad

In the controller box, I had both language instructions: German and english.

If you want, I can scan the important parts and mail them to you. Since I am really busy, it will not be before late wednesday though.

Tell me if still interested. :rolleyes:

[RC_snoopy]

Originally posted by vladivad
Hey guys, just got my hacker motor and controller but all the instructions are in german. Anybody know how to get an english version. I remember marnadaki having the same setup. How did you get yours or can you read german?:confused:

Give me your email and i'll email you the english instructions.
I wrote the english instructions for Hacker so i have them on doc file. Same goes for anybody else who needs english instructions.
:D :D

[vladivad]

Wow, thanks rc snoopy. That`s really nice of you.
My email address is vladivad@netscape.net
That`s cool that you wrote the english manual for those guys. I really want to try my car out today since I waited like a month for it to arrive here.;) Thanks again for the offer.:D

[spenzalii]

This may have been answered already, but where can you get that hacker master controller and how much does it run? I'll probably go with the Lehrner Basic 5300 to start with, but I would like a good controller that won't run me 400 bucks. BTW, I see trucks, trucks, and more trucks. Any suggestions for putting one in a XXX-S and a RC10L3? I'm going snake hunting in the spring....

[RC_snoopy]

Originally posted by spenzalii
This may have been answered already, but where can you get that hacker master controller and how much does it run? I'll probably go with the Lehrner Basic 5300 to start with, but I would like a good controller that won't run me 400 bucks. BTW, I see trucks, trucks, and more trucks. Any suggestions for putting one in a XXX-S and a RC10L3? I'm going snake hunting in the spring....

Depends on how many cells you want to run but the Hacker car controller can be bought here in Australia for around US$220
and it will do 6-12 cells. I've actually had people running with 15cells on this esc under the right conditions.

[Ben_Hacker]

You can get the speed control through Hacker Brushless USA. Goes for $200.00. Phone number is on there website. www.hackerbrushless.com

[krisI.925]

does anyone know when rumrunnerhobbies will be "open" i heard they were closed for a few weeks and i e-mailed them the other week but never got a response. Im gettin woried because its been over a month since i ordered my controller and motor. :(

[SandManRacing]

If you want the whole Hacker Controller manual in ENGLISH just go to my webpage. I have the manual in PDF format.

R/C Cars (http://rccars.ca.tc)

Click on the USA flag in the upper left for the English version of my page. Otherwise it is in French.

For the manual click on MANUALS on the left.

Bye!

[MarNaDaKi]

Wow... :eek:

I feel like useless... :( ........ :p

[k_sw31]

Man I wish I knew when I am gonna get my controller back :( ...

[vladivad]

Thanks guys for your help. RC Snoopy kindly mailed me a copy yesterday. Haven`t had any time to setup though. Maybe tonight.:o

[k_sw31]

Crono Man- You still here, just curious, have you bought a Brushless setup yat? Haven't seen ya for a while.

[RCmaniac324]

Originally posted by krisI.925
does anyone know when rumrunnerhobbies will be "open" i heard they were closed for a few weeks and i e-mailed them the other week but never got a response. Im gettin woried because its been over a month since i ordered my controller and motor. :(

I was just at their site, and they said they were only at the competition untill the 12TH, so they should b open today. As for the E-mail, i e-mailed them once a long time ago (like two months) and i too never got a reply, i had to go elsewhere for the info i wanted, so personally, i believe their customer service sux.

As for you ordering your system over a month ago, i believe i know why you havent recieved it yet. It is because, if you look at their site, you will find that they are back-ordering every controller (thats what that little blue "b/o" symbol means on their pages) except the 60A standard controller (the one w/o RC software) and the 40A warrior controller, and have been for about the time you stated u ordered yours, a month or two ago. Also, they are back-ordering all basic series motors exept the 4200 and the 5300. So, if you ordered a different controller or motor than the ones i have stated above as still being in stock, they are probably holding the whole order you made untill they can send you everything at once. You shouldnt have to wait much longer, because they are supposed to post their christmas specials soon, and i would think theyd wait untill they got a new shipment to post them, so there's probably one on the way.

I plan on ordering a warrior 7018/basic 5300 motor combo to power my truck once they post the specials (so i can save money :D ) BTW guys, how much speed do you think i'll gain with this setup at 8-9 cells and geared up, compared to my brushed 11T at 6 cells??? :D :D :D jw, cuz i know this things gonna fly, and thats why im beefing up my whole front end with custom aluminum braces for the A-arms (and epoxy to help hold them on, along with 4 screws each. im not letting them snap :D :p ), as well as a custom aluminum front bumper, oversized, so as to protect the front of my body, as well as take a lot of the shock when crashed.

hope the first bit of my post help quell your worries krisI.925

[k_sw31]

Well, with that setup in my T3, i get about 5-10 more mph than a 13 turn geared exactly that same (it was lowly geared for the Bl too :D)

[RCmaniac324]

but can i expect to go from the low 30's w/ a 11T Orion rush motor and 6 cells geared at sumthin like a final of 13.1 to the 50's or 60's with this setup running 9 cells and gearing up higher???? because the motor already goes faster per volt, and adding more voltage, gearing up, and having much more torque should have a profound positive effect on my top speed, right???

[k_sw31]

Well, at least the 50's :D which is plenty fast :D :)

[krisI.925]

RCmaniac you did help me a bit. But yesterday i got a e-mail from rum runner and they said that my order was shipped yesterday and they will be e-mailing me the tracking number soon. So i guess they got back.

[MarNaDaKi]

I'll soon be able to comment on Icare customer service.

That's because after severals other tests today (including pinion change), I concluded that I had a defective controller and sent it back to Icare where I bought it.

Now I have to go back to junked brushed motor... :mad:

[krisI.925]

i will finaly be getting my motor and speed control either monday afternoon. cant wait. just hope we have some good weather next week.

[k_sw31]

MarNaDaKi- I know what you mean :( When i had to send my controller in it just sucked, i used up all my brushes and everything, the only thing i have to drive right now is a 21$ Peak Jaguar 11x2, not as fast and not NEARLY the torque :( I make du though, let see, how long has it been since I sent it back, i will check.
Edit, I sent the controller back on 10-09-2002 to fine design RC, i still don't know when I will get it back. :mad: ITS BEEN OVER 2 months!!!!:mad:

982nd

[Soya]

Almost there!

[vladivad]

Marnadaki-Just installed my hacker and I think that I have the same problem that you encountered. I`ll be running it and for a split second it will reverse direction.:confused: Luckily it wasn`t on a fully charged pack or I would have stripped something. Please tell me how it goes with Icare. Maybe mine is from the same batch yours came from. Was there any other problems that came up besides that one?

[RCmaniac324]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Well, at least the 50's :D which is plenty fast :D :)

Thanx for the estimate k_sw31. You see, i aim to go faster then even all the nitro trucks/buggies (no .21 power............yet. All nitros in town are either .15 or .16 right now) in town, let alone the e-Maxxes. The fastest, my friends maximum ST pro and maybe my other friend's POS kyosho buggy (he's really crapped it up, but if he gets it runnin, it goes kinda fast..........key word: kinda :D ), are my main challengers. The ST is gonna be my main challenge though, because he plans on getting a high performance .12 (has both more RPM's and a little under twice the BHP of his stock engine), and slammin it in there, then dialin in his 2-speed again and possibly gettin a C-VEC tuned pipe, so he'll be a good race, the rest will be eatin my dust (unless they become the mod squad in 2.2 seconds and figure out a way to slam a .21 into their vehicles......... which isnt likely:D :p ). Then there's always the possibility of a 2-speed for me, or even a custom 4 speed...............................lol. :D I love insane speeds...........especially in off-road machines. hehe. :D :p

U see, over here in my town, we have a mini "The Fast and the Furious" syndrome goin on here. not only are we tryin to beat each other in speed, but were also tryin to look cooler. Also, me and my friend with the Maximum ST drive at night and he annoys people with his nitro while im the silent speed demon with my electric :D . Him and i have plans for a compact, twisty, jumpy track back in the woods for the RCers in town, so we can really show our stuff in a real race situation. :D So my plans are: 9 cell, geared up brushless, and a custom big aluminum front bumper (a must have for high-speed driving. hehe). :D and yes, i know im insane. lol.

[MarNaDaKi]

vladivad

When I talked to Etienne from Icare, he has been really kind and patient. He told me to send it back so they can have a serious look at it. He said that if they find anything anormal, they will NOT repair it, instead, they will replace it for free.

You know, I almost bought an M8, thinking that a high quality radio system would cure the problem. That's because the other day, you said that your new M8 solved all your glitch problems with your Aveox setup. I am stunned... :eek: You have the same problem as me with an M8... :confused:

You would call me crazy if I would tell you every single thing I tried to cure that d@mn problem : nothing worked. That's why I sent it back. If they return it as is to me, I think I am going to do a murder... :mad:

But everything is not totally lost yet. I just found that trick from Bubblejunky right here http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=103234

If you try his trick, would you be kind enough to tell me the result it gaves you ?

Good luck...

Oh and by the way, nothing else went wrong. Except for that glitch, everything went smouth as silk ;)

[RC_snoopy]

MarNiDaki,

Just wondering about your glitch problem with the ESC ?
Did you ever mount the ESC in a different position away from the reciever? OR try running it at the higher frequencies?

:confused: :confused:

[MarNaDaKi]

RC_snoopy

Yes, I did both of your suggestions. Like I wrote in my previous post, I almost went overboard in chasing down that moth** fu**** of glitch.

[Kodiak31415]

Hey please excuse my newb-ness, but how do brushless motors work? I know how a normal motor works but all I know about brushless is that you need a special ESC to send the juice to your motor. What happens in the motor is what I don't know, would someone be nice enough to tell me what happens???

[MarNaDaKi]

Kodiak31415
Those 2 places will get you started. Don't forget all the links on those pages.

http://rcbrushless.com/info.html

http://64.57.211.62/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=25;t=345

[Prinler]

Alright guys. Newbie prinler here. I want a brushless setup. Im getting Tax's back in a few months. I need to start shopping for alum parts and brushless motors. I need to know what i should get for the least amount of money. Ya see the less i spend the less time i spend on the couch. So help me out here. I want ungodly speed. (who doesnt) only running 6 cells. Can this be done for under $300? $200?
Let me know im not crazy
Stevep

[k_sw31]

WEll, for under 300, the only setup that would be worth it is the LEhner 7018/5300. The motor is equivelent to a 8 turn, or there abouts :) Or, if you are willing to go over 300 for more speed, get a Hacker master 40 car controller, and like a 4s or a 6s c40 motor, for insaen speed! :D :)

BTW, what car will you be using?

[Prinler]

Hpi rs4 pro 2
Evader
E-maxx
:)

[Prinler]

Mostly E-maxx

[k_sw31]

For the pro 2, the lehner 5300 setup would probably be good, it would destroy your eveder, i wouldn't even bother going B/L with an evader, and with you e maxx, a 4200 lehner would give you a bit better than stock performance (with one motor :)) for good one motor performance, you'll want a lehner 1920 motor and a beefy enough controller to handle it :)

So basically, you'll wnat a setup, either for you pro 2 or you emaxx. :)

[Prinler]

Can you link me to a place to purchase them? Also what would happen to my pro 2 with the maxx set up?

[k_sw31]

Well, a Lehner 1920 would snap the belts after only a few runs they are so powerful :)

Try www.rumrunnerhobbies.com they are one of the cheif lehner dealers here in the US

there is also www.finedesignrc.com they have a good varity of brushless stuf :)

i am not sure where to buy the hacker stuff, there are some ohter people who have hackers, but i am not sure where to get them.

MarNaDaKi- he has one.

[Prinler]

Ok give me a check list of everything i need..

Motor
controler
what else?

[MarNaDaKi]

I do have a Hacker setup that I purchased from Icare. Really kind people.

http://www.icare-rc.com

[MarNaDaKi]

If you don't want to solder directly the motor to the controller, then you'll also need good connectors. (Talking about Hacker cause no connectors in the box)
And don't forget also longer, good quality wires...

[RCmaniac324]

You will need a battery conector of the apropriate gender(if not hard wiring for racing), a reciever pack to ensure that cogging wont get in the way of good performance (dont worry about the extra weight, the BL motors have enough torque to drive it like it wasnt there:D ), possibly a computer programming cable if the controller has that feature and you wish to program it to your exact needs for top performance, double sided tape for the install of the controller(or zip ties, a RCers best friend:D ), and the space on the chassis to install them into.

[MarNaDaKi]

But if you take the Hacker route, no receiver pack necessary...

[MarNaDaKi]

and no programming cable either. It's all built-in features!

[RCmaniac324]

True, but I had the Lehner setup in mind when i made that post (because that's what im gettin soon:D )

[vladivad]

Marnadaki- did Icare find out what`s up with the glitching. I also want to send mine back but if they found a remedy then maybe I can do it myself. My glitching is a lot worse than yours I think because it is rather undriveable right now rather than just the occasional blip. :(

[vladivad]

The more I think about it, my aveox system is perfect. I get insane power, good runtimes, and absoulutely no cogging or glitches. I am wondering if I made a mistake buying the hacker thinking that it would somehow be better (performance wise) since it is a sensorless setup.:(

[MarNaDaKi]

vladivad
Icare should receive my controller around wednesday. I am gonna let them till friday night to find out what is going on, so I am gonna call them late friday or early monday. Therefore, I suggest you to wait for their findings before you send it back. I will make sure to let you know on this forum asap.

glitching s**ks :mad:

[k_sw31]

Prinler, you will also want an assortment of gears, pinions and spurs, as some setups can be sensitive to gearing. :)

[Prinler]

What hacker motor and controler is best bang for my buck? For a stock maxx. Give me modle #'s I need to write this down for santa. Im thinkning Lehner like you all are. Can we use a hacker controler? with a Lehner motor? alright any rate modle #'s :)

[vladivad]

Marnadaki- My car is running perfectly now with no glitches at all. :D Its pretty quick too. Well basically this is what happened. I wanted to test out different positions for my reciever but I thought running my 7 cell was too much for testing. I swapped it with an older 6 cell and changed the reciever postion. It ran perfectly so I thought I fixed it by changing the reciever postion. I then put in the 7 cell and it glitched like crazy. So this whole time it was my battery and nothing else. :) Oh and my hacker with a 6 cell runs as fast as my aveox with a 7 cell.:eek:

[RC_snoopy]

Interesting to hear that it was your battery pack causing the glitching, have'nt come across that one before. Have to keep that in mind for future ref.:cool:

[RC_snoopy]

Originally posted by Prinler
What hacker motor and controler is best bang for my buck? For a stock maxx. Give me modle #'s I need to write this down for santa. Im thinkning Lehner like you all are. Can we use a hacker controler? with a Lehner motor? alright any rate modle #'s :)

Yes you can use your Hacker esc with a lehner motor.

[RadicalRustler]

It took me 3 days to totally read this thread.

so far, there hasn't been a single post about the lehner 1920/5 turn.
Is this motor better than the hacker c40 6t.
Is the reciever pack the part that takes the frequency chip or is it something else. if it is please tell me what is is, how much and where i can get it.
If you look at icare they have a hacker car competition controller for 299 im pretty sure- 110 amps

this is for a rustler

[RC_snoopy]

The hacker car controller is rated at 70amps. But it will handle much more than 70amps.
Running a C40 6t will be stupid for a rustler, you'll break drive shafts like pretzels. But if thats what you want then go with the hacker 6S, otherwise i''d say a 8S will be more than enough.

[Popop]

Not a B/L setup but this could motivate B/L fans !
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/rcsaga/Cars/TGX-E/batt-side-detail512.jpg

My TGX chassis achieved 69.7km/h (with on-board 200g GPS) last sunday with its Speed700 setup, 14x 1250SCRL cells and as shown wheels and gearing ...

I estimate the constant output of the Speed700 Neodym in the 350W range ... Not so huge in fact ...

I think you should consider such a 1:8 tourer for Brushless action !
HPI super Nitro, TGX, Super Ten or even TGR chassis are great bases !

[RadicalRustler]

Is the c40L 6t better than the lehner 1920/5?
the competition ans sport are diff. controllers.
hacker Master Car Competition - $239 111 A - 6-12 cells
www.icare-rc.com
go to electric then to controllers

and wouldn't CVD's or whatever they're called take it?

[Soya]

I've always wanted to put dual BL in an 1/8th scale buggy with 24 cells. FUN!

[RCmaniac324]

Popop- Is that a gas 1/8 TC chassis with the engine and gas tank ripped off, moded for an electric motor on the opposite side, and an empty side for many, many cells???:D I like, I like. could probably fit 3 whole 6 cell packs(maybe even 7 cell packs. hehe) stacked in there easy(21.6+ volts :D :D :D ) to push a bl controller to its limits, as well as obtain insane high end speeds and frequent 4 wheel peelouts :D :D :D :p . hehe. definately an idea for the future when i get a job over the summer (i hope).

[k_sw31]

Prinler- for e maxx setups, visit this (http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/emaxx.htm) page, they are 100% lehner setups, which I would suggest so that way the warrenty will cover you :)

RadicalRustler- the max I would go with a rusltler is a lehner 4200 motor, maybe a 5300. The fact is, the rustler trannsmission just plain SUCKS!! I mean, on my old rustler, i stripped 2 diff gears with a bone stock rustler :mad: If you want to put insane power in, get a T3. :)

About motors RadicalRustler, you would want a c40 s, or a lehner basic size motor. The 1920 and the c40 L are both 550 size motors, way too much torque for an ST, hope this helps. :)

[MarNaDaKi]

vladivad
Are you telling me that ALL my battery packs are unserviceables?

It might be, but it would be surprising cause they are relatively new, side by side quality packs. But, be sure that I am gonna borrow packs here and there this weekend.

Is your good pack a side by side, saddle or spot welded stick pack?

[RadicalRustler]

I have measured the car and the is plenty room for a 550 size motor. I am Planning on getting the Schumacher Cat 3000 and if anyone of you have an operable cat and want to $ell one I'll gladly buy it.
If the Transmission breaks, oh well, i'll get metal stuff for it.
For overall power, is the C40 L stronger than the 1920/5 because it has a higher rpm and i read somewhere in this thread (like swimming in a pool full of grease trying to find something do to its size) that the C40 has more torque.
Thanx:cool:

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by vladivad
Marnadaki- My car is running perfectly now with no glitches at all. :D Its pretty quick too. Well basically this is what happened. I wanted to test out different positions for my reciever but I thought running my 7 cell was too much for testing. I swapped it with an older 6 cell and changed the reciever postion. It ran perfectly so I thought I fixed it by changing the reciever postion. I then put in the 7 cell and it glitched like crazy. So this whole time it was my battery and nothing else. :) Oh and my hacker with a 6 cell runs as fast as my aveox with a 7 cell.:eek:

i have had a similar problem, when i run my t3 (regualr brushed gear) with my cheesy no brand name duratrax shark packs, the thing is uncontrollable from 20 feet out :) But once I put my sanyo 1500 in, the glitching dissapears like magic, stange :confused:

RadicalRustler- Trust me, with a 5300 or a c40 s you will have all the torque you want. The C40 L's and Lehner 1920's were not ment to be used in situations such as stadium trucks, they were ment to power a maxx, and, if one of those gives a maxx unbelieveable torque, there is gonna be some consequences, stadium trucks (or that 4wd belt driven shumacher) were plain not ment for that kind of torque. Thats my opinion anyways, you'll have all the torque you want in a 540 bl. Trust me, BL has a LOT more torque than standard brushed gear :)

[RadicalRustler]

I did some searching (2 months) and i've finally decided to get the c40 s (even though the l is hovering in my mind) thanks to you guys. first i was gonna get the 1920/5 but i didn't know it was 550.
For the controller, how much is a reciever pack and where can i get it? Does the Master Car have cogging and will i need a reciever pack for that? is the Warrior + reciever better than the Car controller if it doesn't have cogging? if it does?
Thanx so much
Yeroon
RadicalRustler

[k_sw31]

Well, with my lehner setup+ reciever pack (I just used a four cell aa holder and some rechargable aa's) the cogging was very minimal, the only thing I noticed was a little lag coming out of corners, just a Tiny bit though :)

Oh yeah, if you get a hacker motor, I dont think you should use a lehner esc for it, i think i read something that said that lehner esc's were designed specifically for lehner motors, and that they were not designed to be used with other motors, my adivice is whichever motor you get, buy the same brand controller, they will just function better together :)


Its sorta like why a mime doesn't marry a signer ;) That was corny, lol :) :p

[vladivad]

marnadaki- the pack that works for my car is an assembled six cell, 3000 sanyos. The one that doesn`t work is an assembled 7 cell, 3000 sanyos. The pack is from kyosho and was labeled for helicopter use but I thought a battery is a battery. However all my batteries work fine with my aveox. The only thing I can think of is that the 7 cell pack has some coarse sand granules impacted on the cells inside the shrink wrap. I am going to buy some 3300`s and make a 7 cell this weekend. I`ll keep you posted.

[RC_snoopy]

Of all the brushless speed controllers i've tried so far i'd say that the Hacker speed controller has the better software. This allows you to use it with more motors and fine tune it more to your needs.
:cool: :cool:

[RadicalRustler]

Oh. snoopy, the lehner 1920 series motor has a length of 46mm while the C40xxS has a length of 53mm, but, the 1930 has a length of 56mm and the 1940 has a length of 66mm, while the c40xxL has a length of 62mm.
I find that the hacker c40 6t s has a better price AND it has more rpm per volt.
Does anyone know how much and where a reciever pack costs?
Thanx

[RC_snoopy]

Usually the larger the motor the more torque they produce, but this usually reduces RPM.
Receiver packs are only neccessary if you plan on using alot of cells. ie 12 cells. This is because the BEC circuits cannot reduce the voltage to a suitable level for your radio system.
Reciever packs are usually available from your LHS.

[k_sw31]

For reciever packs, just use 4 aa's, works fine for me. :)

[makaluch]

Where's Carnation ? I'm from Port Angeles...:rolleyes: Uuuuh,...and I'm corny :(

One real question though.

Is the Hacker Competition Car Controller that big one with the heat sink ? If so, does anyone have any idea how much it weighs ? (like it matters much)

What Schultze controller is recommended for the E-Maxx, say with a B40(or50) 8s(or L for torque) on 8(or 10)-cells in series ?


JEEZ !!! I really have become my Dad !!! So much for bein cool, calm, and decisive :( Havin a wife and n' two kids'll do that to a fella though) :cool:

[Prinler]

Just put 2 packs in my Evader. Who needs brushless lol. I couldnt imagine a brushless. They must be amazing.,

[krisI.925]

I finaly got my 4200 motor and 7018 controller yesterday. I have a few questions tho. For those gold connecters that go to the ESC i solder those on right? :confused: and what is the red jumper thing on the ESC for?

[krisI.925]

And also how do you program the warrior ESC. I remember reading it somewhere but i cant remember where. And my ESC came with no instructions at all.

[B!!!]

For those gold connecters that go to the ESC i solder those on right?
If you are talking about those sort of bullet shaped things with the largesh holes in the side, then yes, solder those onto the 3 blue wires coming from the ESC.

The Red jumper is used for programming.

The Black jumper is used for the BEC. I would remove this and use a RX pack.

Instructions:

http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/manuals/Warrior-englisch1.doc
http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/manuals/Warrior-englisch2.doc

And for when you get frustrated trying to translate the already translated instructions above:

Warrior programming for RC Cars. Quick reference instructions:

1. Motor must be connected.

2. Switch on TX, throttle neutral.

3. Remove programming jumper from controller (Orange jumper on batteries input side.)

4. Connect optional RX batteries and main batteries.

5. After about 5 seconds the controller beeps. Neutral position is detected by controller.

6. Then, Throttle full forwards.

7. After 5 seconds it will beep again. Full throttle is detected. (if it doesn't, throttle is reversed or has not enough travel/trim).

8. Now you can program mode (brake/reverse) (pick one):
A. No brake and reverse: Move throttle Forward.
B. Brake only: Throttle neutral.
C. Reverse and brake: Move throttle fully backwards.

9. After 5 seconds the controller will beep twice to confirm programming.

10. Reconnect programming bridge and disconnect batteries. Programming Complete!


Good luck!

[Popop]

To RCmaniac324 : You can find the TGX and its NEO mods
here (http://perso.wanadoo.fr/rcsaga/Cars/C%20TGX-Neo%201.htm)
The car uses to run on 12-14 cells...

Concerning nitro 1:8 buggies, I continue to think a 16cells B/L could do a good job ...Speed700 are not enough if used alone, perhaps twin ...

Speed700 are currently my favorite off-road powerplant 'cause they need quite no maintenance and don't worry me when eating the dust, water, sand or anything else ...
A well protected B/L will probably do the same ... (if not too hot)

Bye

[k_sw31]

makaluch- Carnation is just about 20 miles east of Seattle (roughly) it is right next to redmond, sort of the hickville part ;)

Popop, It is nice to see you back in the thread, haven't seen you for awhiel. I am curious about that speed 700 motor.

Is it the same diameter as a 540 motor? Like could I use it for my t3 and gear up a ton? :D

Also could i use a Super Rooster for it?

A few more, how much do they cost and where to get?

[Grant Tokumi]

Last I heard (months ago), brushless was quite a bear to control. All or nothing type control. This makes it good for drag racing, junk for track racing. For those who have actually owned and driven a brushless, is this still the case?

I guess the main question is "does brushless have the same throttle control as a brushed setup that would make it just as easy or difficult to maneuver around a off-road or onroad technical track?"

[Popop]

Hi K_sw31 ;)

Speed700 are big brothers of spd500 (=mabuchi540) ...
They cost nothing and use to run happily under 12cells range ... A 50A continuous / 12cells ESC is a must have with them.
An opto 80A/30cells is not so expensive (60-70$) and a very durable invest for intensive use ...

They're very very common in fast electric R/C Boating (D:\Mes documents\FTP\Links\Boats\Links_Boats1.htm) ...
Concerning my car models, I prefer the 700Neodym version ...

See my Monster 2CV, TGX-Neo, Mad-B or now Heaven 8.8 (http://perso.wanadoo.fr/rcsaga/Cars/Heaven/1%20800.jpg) for more information ...
Here the Graupner Speed motor line (http://perso.wanadoo.fr/rcsaga/ABC/Motors/700line.jpg) (better than words!)

[Soya]

Originally posted by Grant Tokumi
I guess the main question is "does brushless have the same throttle control as a brushed setup that would make it just as easy or difficult to maneuver around a off-road or onroad technical track?"

My BL has much greater control over a brushed setup, larger powerband, more RPM.

[RadicalRustler]

Grant, it depends on the type of brushless ou are talking about. if it is sensored it was as smooth years ago. the sensorless motors sometimes get cogging (warrior w/o a reciever pack with 6-7 cells)
but now most contollers have a cogging of zip or near zip. this cogging only happens from a direct standstill. I haven't ordered mine and probably not in the near future, but im going sensorless with the hacker car sport and C40.
For sensored go with the aveox BUT they have lower rpm because the of sensor

[k_sw31]

Popop, I guess what I'd like to know is if I could throw it in my T3 and run it comfortably with 6-10 cells and a super rooster?

PS, the first link doesn't work so what are the prices? (i dont wanna to get a new controller right now :()



Grant Tokumi- Reguarding smoothness, on my lehner 7018/5300 setup, as long as a run a reciever pack, the control is about 95% of what a really nice brushed setup. The only time 'cogging' occurs for me is when you are letting off the throittle, then you get back on again, but just a tiny bit, and this is one of the most inexpensive controllers too :) That and you cannot creep along at 3 mph, but who need to do that in a race :p

[WhaDL]

Grant Tokumi,

I've been racing a XXXT with a Lehner 4018 controller and 4200 motor for a couple months now. I been running it lately with a 17-tooth pinion and the standard 86-tooth spur. That's pretty good gearing for a somewhat tight track. Should gear it up a bit for a more open track.

I initially had some cogging/stalling problems, but they all went away when I installed a baby 4-cell NiCAD Rx pack that I run in PARALLEL with the BEC from the controller.

That's key - you want to run both systems together, which seems to work better and allows you to run the smallest Rx pack you can find. I use those 1/3 AA cells that you can find in sets of 4 or 6 for airplanes. I think it's only about 300mah, or so. Maybe less. But it easily handles a day of racing.

Anyway, I'd bet money that you would find my system is at least as driveable as a brushed system. There is absolutely no cogging whatsoever. I can dump the throttle from a dead stop on an incline and the car doesn't miss a beat. Same is true under any driving condition. Even when the battery is dumping I get no cogging or stalling.

The biggest driveability issue is that the brakes are REALLY strong. You've really got to dial them down else they grab way too hard. This is particularly true in the air as they can lock instantly and send the nose diving hard. But, with the proper setting, you can get any amount of braking that you want, and they are always very consistent.

The biggest downside I see to my system, aside from the annoying things like no switch, is that you cannot remove/replace the bearings in the motor. The thing is guaranteed for two years, but that doesn't help that much. The motor, and the warranty, was obviously designed with airplanes in mind. But the Orion looks like it has that problem covered, and I suspect that it will be the system of choice for 1/10 scale car racing.

[Grant Tokumi]

Thanks,

Thats exactly the kind of first-hand detailed writeup I was looking for. Good stuff and bad. I guess brushless has come a ways since I last looked in BL related threads.

What about the "That and you cannot creep along at 3 mph, but who need to do that in a race"? No discredit or flame to k_sw31, but I think it is important to have the ability to travel at any speed, 3 mph included. For instance, sometimes we like to blip and creep very little on the starting line just to insure we are actually sending and receiving signal. I'd hate to unexpectingly go slamming into the guy in front of me on the starting grid.

[WhaDL]

Grant,

Really no problem with slow speed driving with my system. The only thing I notice is when I put some forward roll in it and let it creep ahead at a super-slow speed - say something like a few seconds for one turn of the wheel. It will do that, but it doesn't do it smoothly - it makes a glitching kind of sound. But you never run it at that speed, of course, any slow speed driving is always faster than that.

One other point I forgot to mention about driveability, which is caused by the lack of drag in the motor. It's pretty similar to a brushed motor with bearings and takes a little bit to get used to compared to a stock motor. I'm guessing it's just a bit worse than a mod, since there is also no brushes rubbing to provide some drag.

I haven't tried to dial in any drag with the brakes as I put in forward roll to help keep the brakes from coming on too strong. Seems like its not really good or bad, just different. Takes a bit getting used to, but I don't really notice it now.

[WhaDL]

One key point about brushless motors that seems to go unmentioned, particularly amoung racers:

You really CANNOT overheat them in normal 1/10 scale racing usage!

That means we should be looking at 10 minute mains soon, particularly with 3300 batteries. Gives new value to longer running batteries.

And, you can also practice your brains out! Run the battery until it dumps, and I've been getting 12-14 minutes on a track with my system, and then just swap in a new battery and hit it some more.

That's a really big advantage! I love it.

Now, the motor casing will get pretty damn hot, even to the point where you cannot hold your finger on it for even a second. But remember that the heat is generated in the windings, which are connected directly, thermally, to the motor case.

So it's easier for the heat to get to the case. That's a good thing because it lets the heat escape. So it may fell like its gets as hot or even hotter than you like your brushed motor to get, but it's because it's easier for the heat to get there. Think how hot your brushed motor's windings have to get for the heat to travel from the spinning arm to the case.

I think Fine Design told me the Lehner motor could handle something like 250 degrees. The hottest I've measured mine is 145.

My little system can't pull wheelies or twist my CVD's, but it will blow the doors off a stock motor, takes zero mainenance and get's me run times well over 10 minutes, even with 3000's. I'm in hog heaven!

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Popop, I guess what I'd like to know is if I could throw it in my T3 and run it comfortably with 6-10 cells and a super rooster?

PS, the first link doesn't work so what are the prices? (i dont wanna to get a new controller right now :()



Grant Tokumi- Reguarding smoothness, on my lehner 7018/5300 setup, as long as a run a reciever pack, the control is about 95% of what a really nice brushed setup. The only time 'cogging' occurs for me is when you are letting off the throittle, then you get back on again, but just a tiny bit, and this is one of the most inexpensive controllers too :) That and you cannot creep along at 3 mph, but who need to do that in a race :p

Well Grant, frankly when I first bought and setup my system (which the people frm fine design didn't even give me any instructions :mad: ) I was not entirley sure what to do. For example, when running the reciever pack you need to remove the black BEC jumper (which i never did cause i did not know i was supposed to) that probably screwed things up, and I did not even know how to program the controller :( COmbine alll these things and well, i am sure my controller never worked right :(

The setup did have AMAZING brakes, i mean, lock up braking no matter how dumped the battery was :)

[fReShJiVe]

Originally posted by WhaDL
Grant Tokumi,


I initially had some cogging/stalling problems, but they all went away when I installed a baby 4-cell NiCAD Rx pack that I run in PARALLEL with the BEC from the controller.



Hi WhaDL- what do u mean by running parallel with the BEC from controller...could u please give the details
thanks

[WhaDL]

fReShJiVe,

Sure - you want both to be working together. That means you do not disable the BEC circuit on your controller when you plug in the Rx pack.

The problem with the BEC on my Lehner controller, I believe, is that the voltage to the receiver dips when there is a heavy load on the controller. This can cause the receiver to turn off, which is a bad thing.

You could just use an Rx pack, but then you need a big one to give you all the current you need. So I just use a really tiny one that just provides a little extra boost when the BEC 'browns out'.

I talked with Airtronics, and they said this works fine - the receiver will take power from whichever source has enough. Note that the Rx pack does not get charged by the controller, it just supports the BEC.

Fine Design also recommended doing it this way when I called them.

Hope that helps

[SandManRacing]

WhaDL that's interesting.

I didn't do it because I think I doesn't work.

Normally, I you plug two sources (like 2 cells) in parallel, the weak cell becomes a load for the good one. And the good cell will dischage in the weak one.

I don't want a battery pack send current to the receiver BEC.
Of course, it would be save if the BEC was designed with this idea in mind. Like if they put a diode on the BEC output. In this case the current can only flow one way.

But you want to be sure before doing this...

But WhaDL said he informed himself well, so that should be ok.

I will try it some day :)

Bye

[krisI.925]

guys i a problem with my BL motor. When i drive my truck it will shutter every 20ft or so. It does it for a few seconds every 20ft or so. It seems like the ESC stops giving the motor power then it does give it power and it causes my truck to jump around and makes it impossible to drive. Whats wrong and how do i fix this. And BTW the power is AMAZING :eek:

Heres my set up:
-Basic 4200 motor
-Warrior 7018 ESC
-Tamyia TXT-1
-JR XR3i radio
-RX pack
-12 cells in series(2 1500 packs)
-12T pinion(this is the smalles one i could fit without heaving modification)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. :)

[RadicalRustler]

I think that it is the esc going into thermo since it is running 12 cells in series. you should have a reciever pack. try checking the temp of your esc after it starts to go jumpy. it could also be over 4" wires to/from the motor to esc.
if not i have no clue. e-mail finedesgn or rumrunnerhobbies if you can't figure it out.

[k_sw31]

It sounds liek your controller is thermaling. CHeck the tempature of everthing (controller and motor) you may need to gear down further

[RCmaniac324]

Could also be too much voltage to the reciever, causing it to glitch. If using a reciever pack, did you disable the BEC from the controller? If not, thats probably your problem. Remove the black BEC jumper from the controller to disable it, and you should be fine.

Another thing it could be is: if still using the BEC, dont use high-torque servos!!!! the will draw too much current and cause the controller to thermal.

Could also be too little voltage to the reciever. For such a big, heavy truck, id use a 5 AA-size cell reciever pack, to accomodate the high-power servo(s)

Another potential problem: motor wires longer than 4" or motor wires routed too close to radio gear.

Also try running less cells to see if thats your problem.

You can also try to gear down with a larger spur if you cant fit a smaller pinion.


hope all this helps. l8r. :)

[Soya]

Originally posted by krisI.925
guys i a problem with my BL motor. When i drive my truck it will shutter every 20ft or so. It does it for a few seconds every 20ft or so. It seems like the ESC stops giving the motor power then it does give it power and it causes my truck to jump around and makes it impossible to drive.

My truck did the same thing. Thermaling ;)

[vladivad]

to the guys who have hacker motors-
I don`t know if everyone knows this but the mounting screw thread size on the motor can is NOT the same as the screws you were using for your brushed motors or aveox. I found out the hard way when the screws wripped out of my motor can.:eek:
After studying what could have gone wrong I found that by using the wrong thread screw, I had stripped the inside threads in the motor can. Man I was pissed. Luckily there are two sets of mounting holes. You should try to remember if the screws went in with little resistance of if you had to force them in there. If you had to force them in I would have to say that your motor is not as secure as you think and probably has been stripped. I found the right thread size at my shop today and it went in nicely. Sorry but I don`t know what the size is because it doesn`t say on the package and everything is in japanese.:confused:

[RadicalRustler]

By the sizes being wrong do you know if the screws being bigger or smaller than stock screws. i think i will e-mail hacker and figure out what size to use. Thanx for this info. i am going to get the hacker and then the xxx4 when the a-arm breakage stops.

[Soya]

They can't extend more than 4mm into the motor, I think. They're still 3mm screws.

[makaluch]

Can anyone tell me the pros and cons to the Aevox RC7/L160RC combo in an E-Maxx ?

I've heard some things about different manufacturers, but can't recall why Aevox motors were not superior to Hackers or other manufacturers...I think it had something to do with the warranty or the bearings...maybe torque ? Ahhh, what do I know:rolleyes:

:) Mark

[RadicalRustler]

Mark, one more guess, yes, rpms is correct! :p The reason the aveox is diff. is because it is sensored. this is good if you want super smooth driving (like a normal brushed setup) but at the cost of rpms. What kind of track are you running on? you also know that NO brushless motors are legal in races, at least, not yet, right?

To everyone
What about the Modeltech brushless? Some say that those motors are somehow better than havker or lehner motors.

[RadicalRustler]

Mark, one more guess, yes, rpms is correct! :p The reason the aveox is diff. is because it is sensored. this is good if you want super smooth driving (like a normal brushed setup) but at the cost of rpms. What kind of track are you running on? you also know that NO brushless motors are legal in races, at least, not yet, right?

To everyone
What about the Modeltech brushless? Some say that those motors are somehow better than havker or lehner motors.

[krisI.925]

the wires are 4 inches and the BEC is disabled. Im using 4 NiMH AA's for the RX pack. But in order to stop it from "thermaling" do i have to gear it down lower. And i tried using fewer cells and it still does the same thing. And the temp of the controller and motor are fine. They hardly even get warm.

[RCmaniac324]

Then it is most likely radio glitching. Check Everything, and make a stand-alone thread to get more replies on the matter from more people.

[racer13]

has any one seen the Hacker C50 and the hacker brushless esc?? its in the new issue of RCCA, it looks like a new type of motor, alumium head sinks going around it etc.. and the esc looks like a normal esc with 2 caps and heat sinks, i was wondering if they would work good in a losi xxxt mfe?

[racer13]

never mind!

C50 Series - Specially designed for R/C Monster Trucks with 12 cells. Incredible power and long run time define the performance of the C50 motors. Motors feature Super Duty Case and 1/8" shaft with flat area. Also used in Airplanes and Helicopters.


it says its for the emaxx that has 12 cells *two packs* so i guess i cant. is there any motors that i could use with 6 cells *2400's* and the master car sport esc?

http://www.hackerbrushless.com/images/mastercarsport.jpg

[RadicalRustler]

No. i wouldn't fit the car. it is bigger than the 540 can in diameter. the c40 s/l will fit but the c40 l was designed for m. trucks not s. trucks. lus you pay 155 for the c40 s at icare-rc.com the controller i would get from hackerbrushless.com at 199. i couldn't find any cheaper prices, but I'll look again.

[racer13]

so what controller and motor SHOULD i use for my s. truck?? it doesnt have to be from hacker, and place would be ok, novak? orion??

[Prinler]

http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/PowerSolutions.htm

Check this out. If you havent seen it yet. These guys rock.
Also if you put to much torque in a small car. you will ripp it apart. I found a movie online, dont remember where, Of someone reving up there brand new BL system and the trani exploding. was neat. Glad it wasnt me.

[RadicalRustler]

racer13 DO NOT get the novak or orion systems. they use ferrite magnets that waer out just like in normal motors and you will need a special zapper for that. Since you can get the others for same/little more xpensive, get the others. they use neodyne magnets that last as long as you live, and the only thing you really need to do is buy new bearings every 10 years.
systems are for cars,buggies + stadium trucks:
hacker sport + c40 small 6t = 354
lehner warrior 7018 + basic 5300 = 240
lehner warrior 4018 + basic 4200 = 220
Aveox RC7 + L160RC = 325

For Monter Trucks And 1/8th buggies
hacker car sport + C40 l =364

any other c50 sizes might work on e-maxx and will work on 1/8th buggies.
With the lehner warrior reciever packs will help stop cogging but most other systems don't have cogging

[racer13]

when you said = 354 what does that mean?? the price? thanks a lot! ill look at those motors.

[racer13]

Ok, my friend Makaluch helped me some and i decided just to head towards the Aveox RC7 + L160RC for my xxxt mfe, of course i dont always believe him thats why i come here :D i was asking if i could balloon the controller when i drive it in sand, will any get in the motor? will the controller heat up? etc.. It will be in a xxxt mfe with 6 cell 2400 matched packs.

[RadicalRustler]

racer13 - yes i was refering to the price. and i forgot one. modeltech brushless combo - $400 (i think. its 250 pounds which is 636 can. divided by 1.59 (exchange rate)= 400)
there are more but i don't know these.
Hope i helped
these motors can be found at these sites
www.rumrunnerhobbies.com
www.finedesignrc.com
www.hackerbrushless.com
www.modeltech.co.uk

warrior 7018 + 1920 = 307
the 1920 is the best for cars of the 19 series since it has the best rpm/wieght ratio. it is also the shortest. the other thing about these motors is that they have 2 settings.

i think that modeltech and hacker are one and the same, as "B40" and a "conventional esc design" you should look at their b40's

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by RadicalRustler
racer13 DO NOT get the novak or orion systems. they use ferrite magnets that waer out just like in normal motors and you will need a special zapper for that. Since you can get the others for same/little more xpensive, get the others. they use neodyne magnets that last as long as you live, and the only thing you really need to do is buy new bearings every 10 years.
systems are for cars,buggies + stadium trucks:
hacker sport + c40 small 6t = 354
lehner warrior 7018 + basic 5300 = 240
lehner warrior 4018 + basic 4200 = 220
Aveox RC7 + L160RC = 325

For Monter Trucks And 1/8th buggies
hacker car sport + C40 l =364

any other c50 sizes might work on e-maxx and will work on 1/8th buggies.
With the lehner warrior reciever packs will help stop cogging but most other systems don't have cogging

One thing you should note, you say "lehner warrior 4018 + basic 4200 = 220" Well, the 4018 wasn't really designed with motors like that designed. If i am correct the amp draw on a 4200 is either 45 or 55. Correct? Well, the 4108 esc is only rated at 40 amps. It would be a serious mistake (in my opinion) to use that combo. Just pay 10 more $$ for the 7018, for extra insureance. :)

[makaluch]

Racer13 - I was just explaining that I found an inexpensive combo that would work. It is not the only option for a 1/10th truck application. There were a few other options.Check out the above posts. And like I was sayin...research research research...sites, forums(read through em), and people.

I believe he's concerned with getting sand and/or water in his electronics.

I suggested that he'd be fine (Aevox is a well sealed can), but wouldn't venture to say that it's safe to balloon a controller. I've never owned a BL setup and THAT setup in particular I've not heard much about. My suggestion was to seal wires into the controller with Shoo Goo, then test the controller for heat problems...if all is well and he's worried still, try a balloon.

PS...the Aevox RC7(= to a 15x3) is not enough power for a substantial change to an E-Maxx.

[racer13]

Racer13 slaps makaluch around a bit with a large trout. :D

[k_sw31]

K_sw31 steps in with a sea bass ;)


THis could get ugly :) I dunno, just felt like saying something

[makaluch]

Wouldn't be the first time my face smelled like fish, if ya know what I'm sayin :cool:

[racer13]

makaluch, go deep sea fishing a lot? if ya know what i mean. :p

[k_sw31]

THe correct term would be "deep sea diving" ;)

[Soya]

*Soya flings his goldfish at k_ws31*

[racer13]

whatever floats your boat man.

[RC_snoopy]

This is getting silly, I'm going fishing!!!! :p :p

[Soya]

There is a fine line between fishing and standing on the shore like an idiot.

[racer13]

i'll be back watching the idiots wishing they could catch some fish

[racer13]

Ok, to get back on topic.. with a 6 cell pack on a aveox rc7 system, what will my average run times be?

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Soya
*Soya flings his goldfish at k_ws31*

K_sw31 whips out the frying pan ;) :p

Back to the topic, um, I'd i'd guess on 2400's about 10 mins plus.

BUt then again, i dont have one :p

[racer13]

Sounds good. since theres less resistance etc.. i would get more than a brushed motor. i was wondering, is there a different motor compaired to the aveox rc7 and controller. i really dont want to spend over 350. and the aveox is 325, i was thinking a 6-8t? i love speed! :o

[k_sw31]

Well, there is the lehner 7018/5300 combo. Equivlent to about an 8 turn. :) Sensorless, I got about 6 or 7 minutes of runtime on cheapie 1500's :) Only about 250 or so :)

[racer13]

With the lehner warrior reciever packs will help stop cogging but most other systems don't have cogging



is that true?

[Soya]

Originally posted by k_sw31
K_sw31 whips out the frying pan ;) :p

My poor goldfish:p
*Soya yanks a catfish from the freezer and launches it with a mortar *:p

[RadicalRustler]

Yes, I you look back a couple pages you might find some stuff on that. And if you get a 4 batt reciever pack (aa) and use it in parralel with the BEC, you should have some teriffic results. there is also the option of disabling the bec but i would reccomend the parralel BEC. Just ask how, since i don't konw how.:(

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Soya
My poor goldfish:p
*Soya yanks a catfish from the freezer and launches it with a mortar *:p

*K_sw31 heads towards the live well and says "well time to get the 'ol dog fish out"* :p

[racer13]

ok really stop with the fish stuff... rustler, i was thinking of getting the aveox rc7 and the L160RC or the H160RC controller, i read threw all the pages on this forum, and i heard that the controllers seem to get really hot. like you know, ill be running 6 cells so i wont max it out AT all. do they heat up??

[Soya]

Originally posted by k_sw31
*K_sw31 heads towards the live well and says "well time to get the 'ol dog fish out"* :p

NOOO, not the dog fish! AAAAIIIIIIEEEEEEE!!!!!

[racer13]

NO!! damn you mark!!! your bidding on the ebay bl setup i want! are you getting me a christmas present! :D

[yf22k]

I have a lehner 4200 motor and warrior 1780 speed control. I've been swapping it between my tamiya tb evolution II and tamiya f201. I'm getting tired of switchign it between cars. I'm planning to get another brushless setup in teh spring. i know how my current setup acts. A little hesitation at standstill but still very powerful. I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a better sensorless setup for either car using only 6 cells of 3000 mah nimh batteries. I'm leaning towards another lehner setup. probably a 5300 and the same speed controller. but i'm open to suggestions since i have all winter to save up and think about it.

[makaluch]

Just cuz I bid doesn't mean I really want it :rolleyes: BUT...a deal is a deal. I'm waaaayy under the reserve I'm sure. It's a good setup for a truck or buggy,...but not for an E-Maxx

[k_sw31]

yf22k- IF i were you I'd just get a 5300/7108 combo. WHy? Well, for one, you are already very familiar with your setup right? Well, so that way, you dont get mixed up in having two different controlllers to program, in different ways, etc. (just my preferance) so you can avoiding screwing your stuff.




Time for mister PEAKOCK BASS!!!!!!!!!

[yf22k]

yeah i probably will but i'm not too concerned about having to program two different conrollers. I'm just looking for anything better out there. Is there any way to program one of lehners 18 series controllers so that the motor can go from 0 to full throttle or maybe 3/4 throttle without cogging or stopping? That's the only negative about the lehner motor is that it has that to protect the drivetrain. I think it'd be pretty hard to break the drive system on a tb evolution II in my opinion.

[RadicalRustler]

Yes, some controllers do get hot. yours shouldn't get more than a little warm if you are running 6 cells. the things that lead to hot controllers are:
1. lots of cells
2. lots of foward brake/reversing
3. high gearing
4. conectors - use ultra deans or powerpole. I am going to use powerpole since the new ones don't require soldering and they have .00001 more resistance than ultra deans

Always make sure you have a heat sink on it just in case it gets warm. better safe that sorry.:p

[Soya]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Time for mister PEAKOCK BASS!!!!!!!!!

Time for my Nurse Shark that's been sitting on my shelf!

[RadicalRustler]

GO Whaleshark! Go an Get 'em!:p :p :p :p

[racer13]

thanks radical! ill just take a computer heat sink w/ fan built into it and use that. is it fine if i still have my steering hooked up to the same battery?

[Soya]

Originally posted by RadicalRustler
GO Whaleshark! Go an Get 'em!:p :p :p :p

Yeah, I've got one of those in my room too!:D

[RadicalRustler]

racer13, it depends on how many volts your fan is and how many amps it draws. It probably will last, but I'm not sure how long. Try it without for a couple minutes, feel the temp. if it is getting warm (more than a little but not hot) to the touch after a min of driving you might want to put the heat sink on. if it still gets hot, put the fan on.

[k_sw31]

Um... BLUE WHALE!!!!!!!!!!! :p

[krisI.925]

i got my BL working perfectly :D it turns out it was a low Rx battery just like RRH said. And BTW its fricken awsome.

[andy497]

I was eagerly waiting for Novak's entry into brushless as their ESCs are the best in my opinion, but then I read that their brushless should be steered clear of.

Specifically, I think Radical said they are using ferrous magnets which is no good. Well the writeup on team novak claims they are using neodymium just like everyone else. Now I realize they aren't really for sale yet (though they are listed at towerhobbies), but they claim higher RPMs/volt than everyone else all so on, and normally I would trust a name like novak for making quality stuff.

Anyhoo, I've got a good lead on a brand new aveox w/control for very cheap. Anyone think it's worth the wait for novak/orion etc., or should I chance it now?

[k_sw31]

Well, I would take the aveox. Why? Well, consider this, aveox has been making brushless stuff for over 6 years, even supplying the militairy with brushless stuff, I have heard good things about aveox stuff from every single person that I have talked to that owns one. PLus we know for sure that they are powerful and relible, since they have been out for a few years. On the other hand, novak is coming out with brand new stuff, and i am pretty sure they use ferrite magnets, I dunno, i'd just get the aveox system.

[andy497]

Ok, next question:

Sensored or sensorless?

From what I've been able to glean, sensorless have higher top rpm at the expense of more cogging. I'm not sure if this needs to be the case though. Also, are there sensorless motors with reverse? I was under the the impression that a sensorless esc can tell the motor is spinning but not which direction.

Anyone know the real scoop on this?

[racer13]

well i would go for the aveox cause there sensored, a more smoother throttle and acceleration, no clogging.. i wouldnt wanna deal with my motor clogging every time i hit the throttle, that would suck!

[Soya]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Um... BLUE WHALE!!!!!!!!!!! :p

I'll attack you with my army of shellfish I grow in my pool :D

[racer13]

Soya, go to offtopic forum if u wanna talk about fish k? this is the brushless forum talking about BRUSHLESS motors not fish!!!! so please take it elsewhere.


Im not sure if Aveox motors are sensored cause it says sensoreless on there site, does any one know what they are? thanks a lot.

[andy497]

I'm assuming they are sensored because the L160RC controller often bundled with them (at least the rc7) is (according to their site).

Ok, so of the main current contendors (aveox, hacker, lehner), what are people's favorites?

I'd thinking about getting one soon, and I think I'd like to put it in my XX (yikes!).

[diesel757]

could someone post the web site for aveox. how much does one of these systems go for. thanks rob

racer chill(like fish on ice) it was only a joke. :D

anybody in the mood for tuna steaks?:D

[k_sw31]

First of all, the aveox car setup is sensored, to clear things up.

andy497- TO answer soem of your questions, yes sensorless systems do have reverse.

I think the aveox's go for like 300 new but you can pick them up on ebay for 250 $


Hmmmm, I need to build up my army of norhtern pike and large mouth bass.

[racer13]

www.aveox.com is the website you asked for.

[Soya]

What, a guy can't have some fun? Party pooper:p
7 Salmons jumping....

[k_sw31]

You should get a T3 :)

[Soya]

I have $23.67 :(

[k_sw31]

Sell your E-maxx, I'll buy it for 40 bux ;)

[RCmaniac324]

Anyone here know when rumrunner is going to actually post their christmas specials???? I finally have enough money for it (emphasis on finally, been waiting 3 months to get the last 50 or so dollars), and they said they'd be up on the 11th, but then they went away to that competition, leaving only a post saying that "they will be posted shortly after we return". well, its been 17 days, and still no sign of 'em. so i have been checking every single day since the 11th so as to get my order in b4 they get sold out, yet they havent posted them yet, and i am getting pi$$ed off knowing i finally have the money, but they wont post their d@mn specials!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Soya]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Sell your E-maxx, I'll buy it for 40 bux ;)

I used most of the E-maxx drivetrain for my truck. And suspension.

[RadicalRustler]

I feel for you, man. i want to find out their specials are too. I wanna get a 4200 x2 and a warrior 7018 IF i can wire two motors on one controller. (4x4 pede conversion on rustler (almost same car) and if not just a 4200 and warrior)

[RCmaniac324]

I would not wire two 4200s to one warrior 7018 controller. each motor draws 50A if i remember correctly, so a combined load of 100A on a 70A controller= fried controller (or at least, frequent thermals)

If you want power and speed, just get one 5300 motor and a warrior 7018. Thats what im getting. The runtimes will still be in the 10+minute range with 3000 packs (even more with 3300's), and you can run up to 8 cells on it (safely. 9 cells is pushing it within 7000 RPM of its limit, so may not be safe under load. now 10 cells.........thats really pushing it. it runs it within 2000RPM of its limit, and at that close to the limit, it may throw a magnet under load, then you'll b screwed.) for insane speeds.and if you really want run time, you can run 3 packs in parralel (the controller can handle upto 18 cells) for most likely 30+ minutes of runtime!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! at the sacrifice of speed due to extra weight (but with the torque of these motors, probably not much loss :D :p ).

this would be just my suggestion, but get the 4200 if you really dont want all that much speed.