Brushless Motor Forum v2.0

[tc3punk]

from what I hear, the 1930/5 has the perfect amount of RPMs / Torque, so I'd get that, instead of the 1940, cause you want rpms to go with that torque right?

good luck, and let us know how it turns out:)

[tc3punk]

biturbo...

you can put a bl in that car, but you'd wanna stay in the basic line of Lehner motors, or other motors that are similar...

and just not be the type of driver that "punches" it outa the corners..
:rolleyes:

[NIC]

To tc3punk:

According to the specs of the 1930/5 it is limited to 50.000 rpm, and if I use 12 cells (14.4 V) I would have a rpm of 60.000 with no load and prob. even a bit more cause the cells have more than 1.2 V.
Do you mean that the rpm goes down to under 50.000 under load ? If it doesn´t the system will not handle it for what I have been reading.
So the 1940/5 with a rpm/v of 3135 would give me about 45.000 with two 6cell packs in series (GP 3300 Orion RDS). This gives me a margin of 5000 rpm.
And my experience with the RC-7 is that the calculated rpm under no load is cloose to what you will get in the car under load. Because the B/L:s doesn´t drop that much in rpm due to their torque and combined with the cells "higher" voltage then 1.2 V.

Am I out in deep water here or did you not calculate with the use of 12 cells ?

My question still stand regarding the Y-conn.

And another thought about it:

If you take a 1940/7 with 6-cells (7.2 V) in delta-conn it will produce aprox. 16.000 rpms.

If you then use the Y-conn on the same motor you will get a 7*1.73=12.11, that´s a 12 turn ( 1306 rpm/V).

If you then use more cells with the 12 turn so it will produce the same rpm as the 7 turn, in this case it would be 16000/1306= 12 V (10 cells).

How does the performance differ from the two different settings?
Amp-draw, power in watts, the heat of the controller/motor and so on?

I really want this conversion to be perfect, so if "Mr.Constructor" or someone else could clear thing up for me I would be glad.

[BLK]

HELP!! OK, since my servo was too big to fit the car master and servo in the TC3, I decided to drop the 40C/car master setup into my XXX-T. Got everything put in correctly, and....and...BLAH! No power to the drive-train for some reason. The motor hooks up fine, the batts are charged, but I think the diff is slipping. Whenever I hit the throttle, the car just sorta creeps along like a Radio Shack toy. I know the car was working just fine before I pulled out my 27T double motor. If there is any weight at all on the rear wheels, i.e. the car is on the ground, the wheels just won't spin. Does this sound like the differential is too loose? Any suggestions on how to tighten it up and how much?

Thanks,
BLK

[RCmaniac324]

BLK- It sounds like either your diff Is WAY too loose and/or your slipper (if your truck is so equipped) is also WAY too loose. For the diff, look down the output hubs. You may have to take out plastic caps that keep out dirt to find what you are looking for: an adjustment screw. Once found, adjust it so that when both hubs are locked with flat-head screw drivers (hold both in one hand), the main gear move VERY SLOWLY when you apply strong rotational force with your other free hand.

Now, for the slipper, if your truck is so equipped, all you have to do it tighten down on the tension screw/bolt (depending on type of slipper) untill you cant make it budge with your hand.....because the BL motor has much more torque than your hand and WILL be able to, so I hear this setting works well.


On another note, I am growing impatient for my BL setup to arrive. I ordered a lehner warrior controller and basic 5300 motor, and it was supposed to have shipped out via UPS 3-7 day shipping on Monday. I know 7 days isnt up yet, but i just wish it would get here sooner. :D :p I'll be sure to let you all know when I finally do get it and install it.

L8r everyone...BLK- hope I was of some help. :)

[BLK]

RC -- thanks for the post. Yea it was my diff. I am in the process of taking it apart to see what is wrong. I tried to tighten it up without taking it a apart, but it jsut became really loose, and I thought I might have broken something. When I got it apart, nothing seems to be broken. So, I get to repack all the bearings and give everything the ol' wrench, so to speak. I hope this works because I am getting antsy to see this thing run.

On a different note, I took out the ol nitro monster truck this after noon. The engine was flooded, so I took out the plug in order to clear the fuel from the engine. Well, stupid me, I pulled the chord to quick and fuel shot out of the engine and all over my face. Lips went numb, eyes started to sting, etc. etc. I tell you, this just ain't my day!:rolleyes:

BLK

[andy497]

Just a sidenote, but nitromethane in the eyes can cause blindness. Hehe, probably not a good thing.

[k_sw31]

Ya dude, you better start washing your eyes......

[BLK]

LOL:D :D Believe me a little nitro in the eye tends to make you want to wash the eyes right away!:eek: :eek: Anyway, still able to see so thats a good thing; diff is still apart, so thats a bad thing. Snow on the ground; bad thing. New radio on the way; good thing. Futaba servo on back order; bad thing. Still havin fun in RC; good thing. Anyway, I'll let you know how the car runs tomorrow with the rebuilt diff.:) :)

BLK

[fReShJiVe]

Originally posted by Mr. Constructor
To fReShJiVe :

It IS a very good Car (the Alex Racing one)
is the www adress the same (www.alex-racing.com) or could you provide me with the adress, I ´m searching for some exotics to race here in Germany.




here you go
http://www.alex.ne.jp/

[Mr. Constructor]

Hi there from Germany!!

To NIC:

No Problem, the Lehner Motors offer the (great) Choice of the star or delta connection.
In the star connection you will have at least 1.73 times the Winds.
The Amp draw is about 33 % less and the heat doesn´t come up this way, but the Torque goes down 33 % too, the max. rpm is still the same.
But as the motor hasn´t got that many Torque, the accleration to max RPM takes longer time, overall you can use the Delta connection at all, if you´ve geared this right, it should not been a problem.
As for the 8th buggy:
Great choice, because these cars have the room for up to 12 cells and the suspension to handle the BL Power, these small 10th are not the best choice in the handling, they´re too light and if they´re 2 wd the drivetrain has too much load !!
ahhh, LOAD: the RPM´s of Lehner Motors are ALWAYS under load measured RPM´s, you will reach them in reality too (mostly with ease !!)

Gearing the 8th as a nitro with up to 35000 (really used RPM) and then get a BL with up to 45 000 or near by 50000 RPM really hits the nail on the head !! (so it will have at any time the power you want !!

The Star Delta conversion at the lehner Motors is eaily done by some solder bridges over some points at the back of the motor, solder all A-A B-B C-C together and you have Delta, solder a-a b-b c-c and you´ll have star connection of the windings inside, very easy, but only to be done at home !! (because it has to be very good soldered, or the amp flow will melt down a bad connection !)

Hope I helped you out NIC
(oh, do not try a Lehner Car controller on a lehner BL this combination is not as good as a kontronik/ lehner combo !!

To Radical Rustler:

You can also get the ESC from GRaupner (it´s the same)
By using the 2888 (for the BEC version) but to be sure ask your dealer I´m not 100% sure if it is 2888 or 2889 !!
The Motors are available through graupner too, see the katalogue at your dealer !!
What´s up with your 4 tec projekt?? is it still in progress?
(of ordering the EVO and the Speed Commander ESC (from GM or Graupner, because the firms got together a few years ago))

See ya !!

To fReShJiVe:

Thanks a lot, I´m interested in any exotic car as everybody uses Yokomo or tamiya´s 414 or asso tc 3 or losi xxx-s that´s a very nice looking Car, maybe I´ll get one.
The drivetrain looks fantastic and the other materials too, could be a nice piece of technology!!
Have you ever checked out the Cars from Tenth Technology??
with F 1 style suspension in a 4 WD Offroad or sedan ??
These Cars are really kind of Exotic !!
(very few pictures there: www.ttechracing.com, maybe with a - in between !!)

Thanks !!

See ya

[BLK]

Ok I don't get it. What am I doing wrong? After rebuilding the diff, I got everything back together again, loosened the clutch as much as possible (to protect the diff) and put the XXX-T/c40/carmaster on the ground to let it fly. Well, theres not much there. The car certainly isn't faster than the old 27T double I had on before. In fact, if I were to hazzard a guess, it seems slower. I checked the diff once again, and it was still tight; I tried to tighten even further, and opps, stripped it again (I am assuming its the 4x40mm locknut that is stripping. So, now I have to take the diff apart and try it all again. However, I don't think it will help much. What am I doing wrong? I certainly expected the BL to be as fast as the lousy stock P2K. Perhaps the differential just can't hold up to the torque of the c40? If so, what can I do to modify the diff so that it will hold up under the load? Is it even possible? Perhaps the weakness lies in the 2 wheel drive system as Mr. Con. indicated in his last post? Any ideas?

BLK

[RCmaniac324]

YOU DONT WANT A LOOSE CLUTCH!!!!!!!!!! Instead, you want a tight clutch, believe me, the motor will still have enough torque to set it a-slippin for a sec or two. With a loose clutch like you described, you are getting next to no drive power to the wheels (as well as not protecting your diff at all)...thats why its going very slow!!!!

hope this helps. :)

[RadicalRustler]

I haven't gotten the 4-tec yet (b/o) and i have to start working, not allowed to use a check w/ 580+ can bucks, i have to get it in the spring/summer w/ working at my parents greenhouse + reffing soccer. I might be allowed to use 100-150 from the check though.
I have another problem, i still have to get myself a vision peak charger, all i have is the mega 1 timer.

[RadicalRustler]

I was talking about buying a bl combo, and mr. Contructor, did you mean hacker master and lehner is not a good combo?

[Racer123091]

no offense radical rustler but it seems like you make an awful lot of posts for a relative noobie to RC... All you can seem to talk about is how you WILL go brushless and you WILL go dual but you haven't yet...

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by RadicalRustler
I haven't gotten the 4-tec yet (b/o) and i have to start working, not allowed to use a check w/ 580+ can bucks, i have to get it in the spring/summer w/ working at my parents greenhouse + reffing soccer. I might be allowed to use 100-150 from the check though.
I have another problem, i still have to get myself a vision peak charger, all i have is the mega 1 timer.

Dude, get a super brain- 45-50$ at tower :D

[BLK]

Originally posted by RCmaniac324
YOU DONT WANT A LOOSE CLUTCH!!!!!!!!!! Instead, you want a tight clutch, believe me, the motor will still have enough torque to set it a-slippin for a sec or two. With a loose clutch like you described, you are getting next to no drive power to the wheels (as well as not protecting your diff at all)...thats why its going very slow!!!!

hope this helps. :)

LOL! Perhaps that will be the difference then? Ok Tight Diff and Tight clutch. Thats one combo I haven't tried. I'm running out of locknuts for the diff though:mad: , so I hope this works. Thanks for the post, I'll give it a try.:D

BLK

[k_sw31]

ya, try that, but dont have it too tight, just set it so the thing slips for a foot or there abouts :cool:

[Soya]

Originally posted by BLK
Snow on the ground; bad thing.

Snow on the ground; Never a bad thing:D

[k_sw31]

Ya, with snow, you dont break parts, you just fry electronics! :p ;)

[Timmy]

Hey guys. As Christmas is getting closer my chances of having the money to buy a BL system is getting better. I have been looking around and reading and still have no idea on what to get. Here is what I would like the system to do. I will be running it in a TC3 and a T3.

1. Have Forward and Brake ( Not sure how many if any have reverse)
2. Be able to use to go slow for climbing
3. Have enough rpm/volt to push my TC3 to 50mph. I am guessing 5000/rpm + will work
4. Be about $225-$250.

That is really all I want. I will be running 6 cells with it I would guess 99% of the time so maxing out the rpm will probably never happen. I am guessing I will need a sensored system for smooth thortle in case I want to race in an outlaw class.

I have found 3 systems so far that would work.
1. Lehner Warrior / 4300
2. Lehner Warrior / 5300
3. Novak Super Sport System.

Thanks for anyone that replies. I have to also consider the Novak isn't out yet but is it worth the wait. I haven't had one the first 5 years so another month ain't going to matter.

[k_sw31]

Well, with the warrior setup, the 5300 would be fine. With the warrior esc, you can program them easily to have reverse or not have reverse. But, it would be better for you to use a Schulze esc, as the warriors hesitate, or so to speak, so they wouldn't be ideal for rockclimbing or racing. A Schulze 18.61 would work great :D THe only thing is that combo would run you about $280+

If you want to buy a sensored setup, I would suggest you buy an aveox. THey have been in the buisness for quite awhile, whereas this is novaks first BL, Aveox knows what they are doing :)

I think an aveox setup would be about the same price as above, but you can find them on ebay periodically for 260$ or so :)

IF you would like to use a warrior esc, I will have a brand new one (or a repaired one) soon. Since I will be buying a Schulze 18.61 soon, I would be willing to sell it to you at a good price, as soon as I get it :) I will give it to you for ~100$, 20-40$ cheaper than reg. if you'd like :)

[RCmaniac324]

Timmy- Here's my breakdown of those systems that you have found:

1. Lehner Warrior/ Basic 4200
-Has forward, brake, AND reverse. Can lock out brake and reverse, lock out only brake, or lock out only reverse also.

-If using a reciever pack (to eliminate any cogging), should be very smooth [smooth enough for racing, I'd think]...however I dont know if it will be suited to low-speed runs for climbing.

-Should push your TC3 pretty close to that limit with 6 peaked cells and stock gearing...then you can gear up due to the massive torque of these motors to go faster!:p :)

-Due to the Christmas specials and motor-trade in offer at www.rumrunnerhobbies.com , this system could cost you only $215 (including shipping)


2. Lehner Warrior/ Basic 5300
-This is the system I should be recieving via UPS tomorrow, so I will be able to tell you how it runs within a day or two.

-Otherwise, it is the same as the Warrior/4200 combo, except it has 1100 more RPM/Volt, and therefore runs faster.


3. Novak super sport system
-:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: .................................I just checked Novak's site to get info to describe it to you.............*drool, drool*...... 6400 RPM/Volt......neodyme mags?????? Last I heard it had ferrite!!!............HUH????? 196 watts from neodyme mags????? something must be wrong. The basic series, which is smaller and also has neodyme mags, produces 700 watts!!!..........maybe its the watts per volt (just a guess)?????...........I'm speechless.............oh, nvmnd. since im a speed freak, I discovered my system is just slightly slower (3000RPM) due to that the novak can only handle upto 7 cells and mine can handle 8, so its not that much faster............but still, it's better than I had it made out to be the last time i read up on it (about 3 months ago)!!! oh, how things have changed!!!!:p

Anyway, here's the rest of the info, quoted from novak's site:

-4-7 cell input voltage
-User-selectable multiple throttle profiles
-Fits in most popular 1/10 scale electric R/C cars
- Completely enclosed motor provides protection from the elements
-Sensor technology provides excellent starting torque and continuous synchronization for great, low-speed driveability, vehicle control, and consistent, accurate brakes
-Low cogging for smooth acceleration and smooth coasting



So.......................Its up to you. I'd personally say for your needs to get the novak.......but it's gonna be a while 'till they're available, so your best bet would be to get the Lehner and just use an Rx pack. :)

[Timmy]

Thanks for the replies guys. So it looks like if I get the money the warrior/5300 would be a good combo to run. I have heard of hacker but really haven't looked into them. From what you said the Novak does look like it will be kinda weak for tourqe but will have alot of top speed. So I may still consider that, Maybe it is a good thing. I mean doesn't BL tear apart stock driveshafts and axles becuase of the tourqe.


RCmaniac324 - I will be very excited to see how you like your system. Just wondering what reciver pack you will run and what type of veichle it is going in.

[k_sw31]

Timmy- I wouldn't really worry about your cars (TC3 and T3 i think) they both have solid drive trains, I didn't have a problem in my T3 :cool: :D

[Soya]

Oh, leave your T3 alone, already:rolleyes: :p

[Prinler]

If you get the hacker maxx combo. you will have a complete setup for any car you own. cant wait to see a 90,000 motor on my pro 2. Zooom zooom zooom. maybe i get a cop to speed test it.

[RCmaniac324]

Originally posted by Timmy
RCmaniac324 - I will be very excited to see how you like your system. Just wondering what reciver pack you will run and what type of veichle it is going in.

Timmy- The reciever pack is just a harness for four AA batteries (non-rechageable, although I could use them if i wanted too) with a connector to plug into the radio. As for the type of truck....It's more of a ST/MT mix. It's got the chassis of a ST, but has 5" tires and 2" of ground clearance.

.....But you will have to wait to see how I like my system. While my system supposedly shipped last Monday via 3-7 day UPS shipping (which would mean at latest it was to come in today).................................It is currently now 5:30 here (dark now), and I still haven't recieved my package, so I am royally pissed because I have everything ready to go (well, except for my diff which is in pieces due to a last minute rebuild.....but won't take long to reassemble), was expecting it today, and I have not recieved it!!!!!!!!!!!.

[Prinler]

Marry Xmaxx RCmaniac324 :)
dont ya love the xmass rush?

[NIC]

To Mr.Constructor:

Thanks alot, you have cleared up a few "?" for me, i´m really thankful for that:) .
You said that I should use a GM/Kontronic controller insted af Lehners own, in wich way are they better ? Could they withstand a higher amp-draw or are they just smoother ?
The motor you said was ok (1940/5), but wich controller from Kontronic do you think I should use (money isn´t a problem), I wan´t the best.

Ok, I hope you will have a good x-mas and a happy new year !

See you next year !

Snowie greetings from NIC in Sweden :)

To Soya:

Snow is fun, my Kyosho-Blizzard with Aveox is making a huge cloud of snow behind it :D

[k_sw31]

heh, NIC, you can go ahead and buy me a christmas gift :D ;) j/k


Soya- dont make me unleash my puffer fish again :p

[RCmaniac324]

OMG!!!. I'D LOVE TO SHOOT MY BROTHER!!!!!!!!!!!! You know its bad when I can tear apart the entire drivetrain and transmission of my truck, rip apart the differential, reassemble everything, regrease everything, re-tune the diff, slam it all back in my truck, give it all a look over for rediness to recieve my BL system (when and if I recieve it :mad: ), put the body back on, get a snack, and STILL HAVE 20 MINUTES TO LAY ON MY BED, BORED TO S#!T while my bro takes an hour on MY SN on MY COMPUTER (after his friends found me online) trying to decide if him and a few others could get together tonight. A simple 5 minute convo took 1 HOUR!!!!!!!!! I wish I could shoot him, I really do.

And k_sw31- Please dont start that fish crap again. It got really annoying the first time....no need for a second round.

[k_sw31]

Dude~
Calm down- Breathe in, breathe out :)

[RCmaniac324]

sry k_sw31, just got a little carried away once I finally got my comp back. U know, I used to be scitzophrenic, but we're ok now. :D :p :cool: ................but really, im ok now. sry about that outburst again. was just a tad angry then. :p

[Timmy]

Ok sounds cool. I also have MT on my T3 as of right now. Depending on what happens for Christmas we will see what else I am going to do to it. I wana get some new rims and tires. Probably Dirt Hawgs on Clawz rims but we will see. I am really hoping to have enough for probably the warrior/5300 combo. Thanks and Hope you get your system soon.

[RCmaniac324]

Timmy- Cool. Just remember to use the reciever pack for the smoothest control when you get it. Hopefully tomorrow I should be able to let you know how it works for me. Untill then, l8r.

Once again, everyone, sorry for that outburst of mine a few posts ago. It just happens to me a lot and I really don't like it. Now I feel like everyone is staring at me like i'm crazy or something. :( Well, sry to have gone off-topic there......everyone: keep the posts a-comin'!!! :p

[k_sw31]

Glad to see your back to normal :p ;)

[gixxer]

I've just ordered a xxxt spec truck for my brushless. Can't believe their $99 now. Hopefully this time the trans won't strip after the slipper is eliminated :D. At least now being xxx based i could actually buy replacement gears.

Someone should make electric car for brushless. I mean holds 8cell. Harden steel diffs ant etc:confused:

[Soya]

Originally posted by NIC
To Soya:
Snow is fun, my Kyosho-Blizzard with Aveox is making a huge cloud of snow behind it :D

Sweet! I've always wanted a Blizzard:)


k_sw31--you mean that puffer fish that I stepped on last week?

[Mr. Constructor]

To Nic:

The Speed Commander 2 from Gm racing or Graupner should be the best one out there it has the latest technology (up to 32 Khz)
and the special very low on resistance never ever elsewhere found!!
(You will get this ESC from Kontronik either, they´re working with GM Racing and Graupner !!
(it´s named the BEAT lineup and there is a special car version wich you can programm in every way you could imagine !!
(with the extra PC interface that´s about 50€)
the ESC itself has a list price of 295€ for the BEC or the non BEC version, the BEC works up to 12 cells, after this (the esc goes up to 18 cells) you have to use a receiver pack !!
This ESC is very smooth I´ve got two of them in my Cars, the Photos are a little further in this forum (starts at page 41 I think)

Have a good X Mas and a good new year !!

ALL of you out there !! :p Don´t kill all your electronics within the snow !! ;-)

See ya !!
(I have to go and get my next BL Projekt . . . .there are some Ideas in my Head that I can´t get rid of . . . . ;-)

[BLK]

Originally posted by gixxer
I've just ordered a xxxt spec truck for my brushless. Can't believe their $99 now. Hopefully this time the trans won't strip after the slipper is eliminated :D. At least now being xxx based i could actually buy replacement gears.

Someone should make electric car for brushless. I mean holds 8cell. Harden steel diffs ant etc:confused:

Let me know how it goes. I've had bad luck so far with my xxx-t's diff. I've tightened it too much twice (stripped the cheap little diff 4-40 lock nut twice trying to tighten it up). I saw that some GH company makes a steel diff nut for the xxx-t. Anyone have experience with this thing, or any others like it? Anyway, the snow on the ground has haulted all progress on my BL projects for now, so all I can do is sit and wonder what the delio is on my xxx-t's diff. I hope the tc3 holds up better than the losi has. If it does, I may just go with an rc10 instead for my off-road foray's into the bl realm.

BLK

[RCmaniac324]

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
IT CAME, IT FINALLY CAME!!!!!!!!!!! I just finished installing my BL and the battery is re-peaking.........wish me luck. :p :D I'll be sure to let y'all know how it went when I'm done. :D Now if only that D@mn batt would peak already.........................

[RadicalRustler]

Good luck!
Don't visit the tree, or the curb, or the mailbox, (which is what you'll need if you hit it) ... :p :p :p :p :p :p :p :p

[k_sw31]

*whispers* Soya- quick! Hes in a good mood! Start the fish thing again! ;) :p:p

let us know how it runs :)

[RCmaniac324]

No RadicalRustler, I thankfully didn't visit those places. :p . But I rolled my truck twice by taking a turn WAY too fast. :p

K_sw31- I have to admit, you can make anyone laugh. lol. I just wasn't in all that great a mood then...I really don't mind if you wanna do that fish stuff again, it was actually kinda funny now that I think about it.....I'll try to restrain myself in the future. :p

...as for how it ran, it ran pretty d@mn good, except for a few glitches which I think I have worked out now. One that especially puzzled me was this: I took what everyone said to do in mind and ran a reciever pack and disabled the BEC....but what happened was when I gave it throttle, it violently jerked on-off-on-off-etc.........and the funky part that confooses me??? Just for S#!ts and giggles, I decided to try it w/o the reciever pack and just use the BEC.........and it worked great!!! *scratches head, looking confused* I just don't get it, but I'm not gonna argue saving that weight and room on my truck!!!:p :D Other than that, my truck flew like a batattahell, and to think I can still gear up and add two extra cells. :D :p :cool:

Another thing that puzzles me....what does it do when the battery gets low/ almost dead??? Does it jerk like it has cogging upon giving throttle, but move little if at all??? Because that's what happened to me, and was wondering if that's what all BL systems do.

Well, g2g, battery's just about finished charging...so I'm gonna go run it and see if I worked everything out. :D and yes, I'm fully aware that it's dark out....that's why I'm glad the school across the street so kindly lights up half of their big front driveway (my prime drag-strip) each night :p :D :cool: I'll probably make another post later describing how it went this time.

[RCmaniac324]

Oh....my.....god............just got back in from running it again. God this thing is FAST!!!!!!! It was clearing a few hundered feet in a matter of seconds from a dead stop!!! And no sign of cogging w/o the reciever pack!!! I'm so happy!!!!! :D :D :D :D :D And to think that I can still gear up a few teeth and add 2 more cells.........*Drool, Drool*........ I'll try to get pics up ASAP for those who want to see my setup.

Can't wait to beat my friend's OFNA 1/8 buggy that he just got runnin' today. :D :p :cool:

L8r y'all. Now I can't wait to see what I get tomorrow morning on top of the BL I bought for myself. :p :D MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!

PS-Timmy: read this and my last post if you haven't already to see how pleased I am with my system!!! It's a great system, and if you have any problems if and when you get it, just drop me a line via the e-mail link in my profile and I'll reply within a day or two (I'm online almost everyday, so I can almost guarantee it. :) :p ).

PPS- And I forgot to mention I'm running w/o a slipper clutch and with a diff in serious need of a rebuild (feels gritty, and has never been rebuilt, only regreased, in it's now exact one year mark of use [got it last Christmas])..........and I'm having no problems except the diff slipping a little upon throttling, but that can be fixed. :p :D

PPPS- Again, since I've talked a lot since the original end of my post (:p )......MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!

[BLK]

Well, tight diff and tight clutch seem to be the right combo.:D I just changed out the 4-40 diff nut in the xxx-t and tightened it as much as I could without stripping it. I tightned down the clutch, and there seems to be a big difference in the performance. I say seems, becuase I can't take it out to run yet (too much snow on the ground for now.) Hopefully after a couple of days of clear weather, I can take it outside to see if there really is a big difference. I am still concerned about the diff nut stripping again. Any suggestions on how to strengthen up that weakness?

Mr. Constructor -- you asked me a while back how smooth the car master esc was. Well, initial impressions are that it is fairly smooth. There is some hesitation in the begining, and a slight jerk when the motor first starts to turn. I can manage low speeds fairly evenly and the throttle modulation seems to be jsut fine. I don't think it is as smooth on initial throttle as my super rooster, but its not that big of a difference. I would say that I have to press in the throttle a few mm's before I get a response, but I can't say how close that comes to the super rooster (never paid much attention to it to begin with.

Now, one last request. Any ideas on how to increase the braking? So far (other than the weak diff) that is my cheif complaint. There is not enough braking. Is that something I need to fix on the esc side, or can I make an adjustment with my radio to compensate? Anyone Anyone?

Thanks for all the help, and Merry Christmas to all!!!

BLK

[k_sw31]

RCmaniac324- Glad to see your satisfied :D So, you are running a 7018/5300 in a XXX-T? What run time are you getting?

BLK- For braking, check your Tx and make sure the endpoints aren't set or anything, other than that all I can think of would be that you need to program your ESC, my warrior/basic had incredible brakes :D

[RCmaniac324]

Originally posted by k_sw31
RCmaniac324- Glad to see your satisfied :D So, you are running a 7018/5300 in a XXX-T? What run time are you getting?


No actually, Im running it in my only vehicle as of now, my MRC Ironman (with bearings, of course). :D :p The tranny is rock-solid, as I have not stripped one gear over the course of a year using mod motors and now 2 runs on a BL w/o a slipper. :D :p I think it is the most underrated truck by all bashing standards. :p :D If you have any other questions on what this truck is like, please, do ask. :)

So I am very pleased. To answer your question k_sw31, I really didn't time my runs....was having too much fun. :D But that's one thing I can do in the next day or two. I know for sure that it's a lot more than I would have if I went and got a faster brushed motor to reach this speed. :p

I am still amazed at how the rear tires skipped across the pavement after being locked by the massive power of this motor upon braking. :D :p ..........I can tell I'll be having a lot of fun with my truck for a long time to come..............:p

L8r everyone, and yet again: MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!

[k_sw31]

Can ya shoot me a link for that truck, sounds cool :)


Merry Christmas to you too :D

[andy497]

Ok, so here's my one week report. Overall, I have to rate my experience a success, although it's been pretty expensive.

Here's what I've run through in the past week on my XX with lehner 5300 and schulze 18.61:

5 front a-arms shattered
1 rear turnbuckle
2 stainless steel ball studs and rod ends
1 stainless MIP CVD self-destructed (ouch)


Ok, so the a-arms were definitely my fault. And the turnbuckles and ball studs. Well, come to think of it, all of it was my fault and a result of bad driving. I guess that's the good news. I came away from the track today feeling like my car would hold up just fine if I drove it correctly. This involved some new rules, like don't ever hit full throttle ever unless you want to spin out or break an a-arm, and some new concepts like being VERY careful what you're doing with the throttle/brake as you crest jumps so that you land correctly on all 4 wheels.

I also have been moving around with pinions a lot, started at 18, went all the way down to 14, and now I'm back at 16. That's with an 88 spur, 1:2.19 trans, and 2.2 inch wheels. (So I guess that's about 1:12 total if that means anything) That gives enough top end that I can still never reach it on this track (100 foot straight) and still more acceleration than xxx4s with 9 turn D5s.

So, overall, the transmission is holding up nicely. I noticed a slight shimmy in my spur, but it doesn't seem to have progressed or caused any problems. I actually got to try my car out on clean dry pavement last night. I had 4 soft rubber slicks on, and it would still go into frantic donuts under full power with the front wheels straight. I could ease it up to full power though, and I would pass from full transmitter range in one direction to full in the other in what seemed like a few seconds.

Anyway, long story short, I've run my hobby shop out of a number of their XX parts including a-arms, so I'm going to have to be very careful from this point on. I would have to say from this experience though that most any decent 2wd buggy's transmission should hold up to brushless just fine. The real question is if the driver can stay away from walls and other hard objects.

[Timmy]

Cool Man I am glad to hear you got it and have it running. I would love to see pics of your set-up. My email is Tapviper@aol.com if you have to email them. So It sounds like you are loving the system. I assume you got it from www.rumrunnerhobbies.com right. So not running a reciever pack seems to be working for you, hmmm. I actually would perfer not to have to find a place to put it on my T3 and have no idea about on my TC3. I also would be running 6 cells like you. How long do you think it took you to get it all in and working. I would also like to hear about your runtimes. Well anyway so far I know I will at least be getting the MX-3 for now. I have probably 70-80 left over from Christmas at my house and my brother about the same. We will have to see what Grandma's house brings tomorrow. Have a great Christmas and thanks for tring to help me and everyone else. I have to say this thread has some of the smartest and most helpful members in it.

[RadicalRustler]

I finally got a peak charger (alphapeak) and that is one less thing i need to go bl eventually.

[RCmaniac324]

k_sw31- I would shoot you a link, but it seems their site is:

"Under Construction
The site you were trying to reach does not currently have a default page. It may be in the process of being upgraded.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please try this site again later. If you still experience the problem, try contacting the Web site administrator. "

:( . But as soon as it is up, I'll be sure to shoot you a link. Their site doesn't have an ordering capability and they have no e-mail (but this may change since they are re-building their site)....and as such you would have to either go on a hunt for a site or LHS that has them, or you may be able to inquire with them by normal mail. :( I guess I'm just lucky that my LHS stocks most of MRCs products (MRC makes other vehicles as well) as well as a wide variety of the replacement parts....because that's another problem, since it's not that popular of a brand, not many stores stock any of their products.......but I haven't needed too many parts in a year of use. :) If you are really interested in checking out this truck, here's all of the contact info you will need to see if my LHS can ship it out to you and/or fax or e-mail you info on it:

"Please contact us with your specific needs by
e-mailing us at hobbymasters@hobbymasters.com
or by calling us at 1-877-MR HOBBY (1-877-674-6229)."

Their site is www.hobbymasters.com

If you have any more questions about my truck, please feel free to ask. I will have pics of my setup ASAP.

Timmy- Ok, Timmy, I'll try to get my dad to take out his camera later today or tomorrow, so I'll have those pics up ASAP. Yes, I got my system from rumrunner.....but it seems they have sold out of their christmas specials now. :( But that's ok, you can still order for about $245 (including shipping) via www.finedesignrc.com the only thing different will be the controller won't have the heat sink, but it's not really necessary from what I've seen so far. Yea, im still confoosed by why it works better w/o the reciever pack (which is the way I'm running it).....but I'm not gonna argue saving space and weight!!!:p To get it all in and working once I prepared a location on my truck that was within the wire's reach to the motor and batteries (took me about an hour or two, considering I had to make a mount for it to mount it in the right position), it only took about an hour to solder the connectors on, zip-tie the controller in (zip-ties are my friend. :D :p ), and program it (had the battery charging while I was doing this.). As for my runtimes, I woulda have run it at least twice already today and timed it at least once to tell you.....but this storm here on the NJ coast sure is raining out any chances of letting me run my RC today. :( ...but I'll be sure to let you know as soon as I can what the average runtimes I am getting are. :)

You have agreat christmas too. Thanx, I think we all do what we can to help others in this hobby. :)

[RCmaniac324]

..........well, update on the weather here (hehe, I sound like an anchorman :p ): Somehow, the rain changed to snow and started sticking. We now have about 1-3 inches and growing (still snowing out)...................looks like I won't be able to run my BL setup for a few days now. :( :mad: ............but once I do get a good day here, I am definately gonna run it quite a few times to make up for those lost days, admire the insane speed (I know I've said this twice already, but it must be hittin 40...and I can still gear up and add 2 cells.....) :D :p , and to time the runtimes for you guys who want to know here in this board. :)

Well, I'm done for now. Ttyl everyone. :)

[NIC]

To Mr.Constructor:

Hello there !
I look at the brushless motor setup thread and saw that you used a Kontronic Fun 500-52 in your 8th scale buggy, a few questions:

1. Do they make that motor with 5200 rpm/V, I only saw a "48"(4800rpm/V) ?

2. If they do, using 12 cells makes the rpm go up to a heartbreaking 75000 rpm !!!.
Could the motor handle all this rpm ?

3. If it pumps out all this rpm, surely your 8th scale would be faster then 80 km/h ?

4. How does this motor compare to the Lehner 1940/5 that I planed to use, does it have have as much power as the Lehner ?

5. Would it even be better to use than the Lehner ?

And a question about the controller:

It is only rated to 70 A continuoues and 90 A peak. I read that you had a few heatproblems with it. When I read "heat" I back of a little. Is it really a good controller in a high power package ?

I want to throw in pack after pack and not be thinking of what temp. the controller has.
I want the ultimate power-package.

See you ! NIC

[BJMFH]

Help!

I just got my brushless Hacker setup today.

The master speed control has three wires that need to be soddered to the three motor wires. The instructions don't really say how. The motor wires are all black and I have no idea which wires goes where. Also, what is the best for making a flat spot on the shaft to set the pinion gear on? BTW, I have the b50 s8 and the master speed control. Thank you so much!

[BLK]

Originally posted by BJMFH
Help!

I just got my brushless Hacker setup today.

The master speed control has three wires that need to be soddered to the three motor wires. The instructions don't really say how. The motor wires are all black and I have no idea which wires goes where. Also, what is the best for making a flat spot on the shaft to set the pinion gear on? BTW, I have the b50 s8 and the master speed control. Thank you so much!

BJMHF,
I wish I could help you, but on my hacker setup, the esc & motor had three color coded wires -- yellow, red, & black, so I just matched them all up. Not sure what to tell you about having all black wires.

Also, the C40 motor already had a flat spot on the shaft. But I think all you really need to do is grind or sand a flat spot on the shaft. I think several on this thread have done so with little or no problems.

If you don't mind my asking, why did you go with a b50 instead of a c40 or c50?

BLK

[andy497]

The wires for my schulze/lehner combo were not color-coded either. You don't have to worry though, because it doesn't matter. Before you solder anything, I would check to see if it's backwards or not though. Just plug the three wires in any combination into the motor. If forward turns the motor in the right direction, you're set. Otherwise, swap any two wires and it will reverse the motor. That's all there is to it.

As far as having no flat spot on the shaft, I had that too with my lehner 5300. I thought about using a dremel to create a flat spot but just figured I'd try it out first to see what happened. Well, I've tried several different sized pinions so far with no problems. I do tighten the set screw down fairly tight, but there as been no slip whatsoever. I would say to try this out first, and if you have problems, to carefully smooth the shaft with a dremel or other sanding disk.

[BJMFH]

Thank you so very much for the advice Andy497 and BLK.

BLK, no I don't mind you asking at all. :p

The reason I went with the B50 was because I talked to some people at Fine Design RC and some guy who worked at Hacker, they both told me I should go with the B50 series. I told them I was running a B3 and was not interested in racing. I wanted something with tons of torque and top end that could effectively run on 6 cells. I basically told them I wanted to have the ultimate backyard bashing buggy.

The guy who worked at Hacker told me that the C40 series was more for people who are into racing. No offense but I can't stand racing, most of the racers in my area are all stuckup and really ****. I hate rules and I do what I please. :D

[BJMFH]

Hello,

It's me again!

I finished soddering all the wires and plugs, everything looks good. I just realized that Fine Design RC didn't send me a manual for the master speed control.

They shipped my stuff out in a box. The motor came in a small box with a picture of a BL Hacker motor on the front. Inside the box contained a white manual and a german catalog.

The master speed control didn't even come in a box or anything. The esc shipped completely bare. There was no box, plastic wrap, or literature. I don't know if the esc was supposed to come like that or what.

Right about now I'm like a chicken with it's head cut off. I'm assuming the two yellow "eyes" have something to do with the setting of the esc. I would mess with it but I don't want to screw anything up. The only thing I did was to connect the motor to the battery and it just started beeping.

I went to the Hacker website hoping to download a manual or something like that. I couldn't find anything useful. I'll try to search the web some more.

If anyone here knows how to properly set a hacker esc, I would be eternally grateful. This is yet another stupid request by the board idiot. Sorry!

P.S. The first person to successfully respond gets my old esc completely FREE. I'll even pay for shipping, just email me your address. BTW, my old esc is a Novak Super Rooster!

[andy497]

I think you're in luck BJMFH, this looks pretty good:

http://www.finedesignrc.com/hackermanual.htm
Some stuff there.

Also, this looks like the official link, but I can't seem to get it to work:
24.202.134.202:85/documents/Master-Car-Englisch.pdf

I tried the google htmlified cache, and that sort of works
http://216.239.53.100/search?q=cache:jmKJaRL_xlcC:24.202.134.202:85/documents/Master-Car-Englisch.pdf+hacker+brushless+instructions+OR+manu al&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

hopefully that helps...

[BJMFH]

Thanks again Andy 497!

I sent you a PM. If you could respond with a shipping address I'll mail out your Novak Super Rooster on Friday.

[BLK]

Hey BJMFH,
Let me know if the directions on the web work out. If not, let me know and I can send you a copy that came with my carmaster. Nothing really to it, unless you want to mess with the factory settings. I just turned on the switch and it was ready to go. One thing I need to look into, however, is how to adjsut the brakes. At this point I'm not sure if its the settings on my radio (I hope) or in the esc. Let me know how your brakes work, I'm interested in finding out whether its the carmaster, the motor, or the radio.

BTW, I'm strictly a basher too, although right now, its hard to bash in the snow!:D :D
BLK

[BJMFH]

BLK,

The directions worked perfectly. I booked marked the links just in case I ever need them again. I still don't why they Fine Design RC didn't see fit to include them, oh well it's Xmas, they were probably busy.

Concerning the brakes, those things are strong! I was able to increase and decrease how hard they "grabbed" through my radio, not the esc. My cars stops so fast I almost thought someone installed some Brembo's.

I live in Detroit and we have damn snow too. I had to find a parking lot that had been plowed in order to test my stuff out.

Bashing rules! The last track I went to people were getting all pissed at me just because I wouldn't race with them. I tried to explain that I sucked at driving and that I would most likely break their cars and mine. I didn't mind being kicked off the track when there was a race. But I couldn't understand why the track officials threw me out just because I wasn't racing. They wouldn't even let me watch, police action was then threatened.

I could go on and on about all the bad race experiences I've had. People just don't understand that I'm there to screw around. I suppose I'll have to build my own track.

[Mr. Constructor]

Hello NIC:

1. Yes they made a 52 er series some months ago, maybe this product was discontinued because not so many people really want this power !!

2. The Motor easily handles this power !!
(it gets warm yes but at all only about 80 Degr. C, thats OK)
The critical temperature for Neodym Magnet material starts at 100 °C

3. Yes it is faster than this !! (it weights only 2.6 Kg with batterys !!)
The measured speed should be about 85 - 90 km/h but the real speed should be around by 80 km/h thats speedy enough :D

4. This Lehner is eavier because it´s longer (10mm) but it will have more torque (about 20 - 30 % more)
If you´re planning a 8th Buggy too choose one in the 250 gramm Class, these will have enough power and are not too heavy, the Fun 500-52 is a bout 205 gr I think and is about 52 mm long I think.

5. The Lehner 1940 has much more torque but less RPM !!
It`s a decision of gearing the motor, my newest Projekt has a direct coupled Motor, means that the motor will be directly coupled to the outdrive of the tranny at the back.
this motor is a Hacker B 50 L with 19 Turns. It will have more than 60 % more RPM and torque compared to a normal Nitro setup !!
This motor weights 250 gramms and is about 600mm long and produces up to 1000 W !!
(if you need more infos about the gearing of my 8th buggy, the other will be 8th truck, ask for it no problem !!)

6. It´s a decision too, if you´re planning a buggy similar to mine, this esc is very excellent, but if your buggy will be heavier or has to produce more power (wich is very hard for the batteries, because they´re at their limit NOW.)
The only ESC I know that handles power up to 120 Apms cont. and a peak of 200 A and could be ordered with a car Software is the Schulze top end model, wich is about 500 € !!
The Problem: it has no BEC, the use of a BEC in such high power conditions is NOT recommended, as the BEC will easily overheat and destroyed !!
check out your needs, if a power of up to 1,2 KW is enough (that IS enough at all :D )
you could use the 70 amp version, my version has a special self built heatsink, to drive about 8-10 min with this power, AND a BEC.

Maybe you should send me the Tech Datas of your solution or planned solution, that I could understand it better and help you out !!
(A photo of your Car would be helpful too, esp. the drivetrain !!)

(these Self-built-high-end-power-constructions are really the best, they are fast, powerful, etc. , but there is ONE disadvantage: the Costs !! (they will easily climb the 1000 € mark !! :( )

Good luck and fun while you´re planning and building this Car !!

See ya

[krisI.925]

I managed to destroy my rear diff on my TXT-1 the other day so i put my bl motor in my pede and managed to completely total it. Does any one know how to bring down the power a bit with you using less cells?

[Mr. Constructor]

To krisI.925 :

Maybe you should try to go down with your ratio (try a 12- 13 :1)
This should help, if the car is too slow, gear one or two teeths up.
also use a heatsink on the motor to prevent overheating, and juse only 6 Cells (if you use more, the Car is not driveable anymore )
If you´r Car has a Slipper Clutch try out some things with this, but be careful not to overheat this, as the slipper pad would be destroyed.
Wich setup are you using now?? (car, ratio, BL, ESC, etc.)
maybe I can give you some Datas when I know your exact setup?

See ya

[BJMFH]

I have yet to figure out exactly how the current limiter on the Hacker Car Speed Controller functions. I set it to 60 amps because they mentioned 60 amps (3rd setting) at their website. My car is faster now than with the 30 amps setting.

Should I leave the esc at 60 amps or set it to the open limit setting? I run between 6 and 12 cells at any given time.

Another dumb question. I didn't really break in my brushless motor the way I would a typical modified motor. I figured since there were no brushs to properly fit to the commuter, a break in period was needless.

I just realized something, I've become that dumb newbie who got "the good stuff" just because they had the money to, not the necessary experience.


Aside from all my ignorant questions, I really love my brushless setup. The lack of maintenance is perfect for people like me. I always hated replacing brushes and messing with the commuter. I've heard some people complain about the coasting, but I love it. It's alot easier to negotiate turns without having to play with the throttle and brake as much, especially after a long straightway. The motor runs much cooler than my old Reedy 12 turn and has longer run times. As soon as prices become more reasonable, a BL revolution with take over the rc world. Anything that has the ability to make an off-road buggy perform fast on-road nitro like donuts rules!

[gixxer]

How is this new hacker combo??

http://www.hackerbrushless.com/cars/touring.shtml

Is it worth gettting or would it strip belts? Maybe i'll need a TC3 for it? Anybody tried it yet?

[RadicalRustler]

The competition controller is xpensive, and the novak ss i think is the best for touring b/c you don't need the massive amounts of torque. And since it is 400$ canadian (gm commander + evo one is 508 according to Mr. Constuctor - Canadian) that gives you 723 canadian w/o shipping & handling.

[Mr. Constructor]

to bjmfh

try the "unlimited" setting for the real power, if it is too much then you could go down either !!
You´re right, a BL doesn´t need a break in procedure, the only thing you could destroy is the ball bearing front and aft (and of course the magnets, if getting over 100° C) everything else is maintenance free !!
(there are no stupid questions, only stupid or wrong answers I think, and we all were some kinda newbie some years ago, I think, it´s the best for our hobby to get the younger people envolved and help them out, not destroying them)

as for the brake problem: try to set your radio Min Brake to 20 %
and the Max to 100% if you still not have the best brakes, go a little higher with the first %.

Have Fun with the best technology today!!

To gixxer:

this combo is very good (but u can use the sport esc, this has enough power)
the motors are alittle heavy weight (as the esc too) but the power is OK.
If you want some better results, go and check Graupner out, they have a esc (the speed commander 2) wich has the best performance, and their BL´s are very leight weight and have power up to 400W wich is enough for every 10th car !!

the order no. might be the 28 88 or 28 89 (w/o BEC)

To radical rustler:

sorry to hear that the parts are so costly for you, in germany
they are quiet OK, but maybe the distributor wants to have too much money, check graupner out, they should tell you a dealer who carries graupner parts (and GM Racing too, as it is the same firm!!

If you have some time to wait:
I get a lehner Warrior at the 2.Jan 2003, then I could tell you where the differencies are (maybe I should compare all esc´s i could get my hands on .....?

see ya all !!

[RadicalRustler]

I have decided on the novak due to 100 canadian bucks less, i don't want extra power for my soon 4-tec (should be coming first week/beginning second week od Jan) since our indoor has a short straight and i don't want to break belts like some say might happen. (Mr. Constructor, the reason everything is so expensive is due to the 1.59 xchange rate. 1 american dollar is worth 1.59 dollars canadian)

[Prinler]

Really Fast! Im at check out on Fine design R/C's site and i want to know if this is worth the money.

562 Hacker C50 Maxx motor 14.4v $219.00
561 Hacker Master Car/Truck Control $199.00

Total Order: $434.00 SHIPPED?
This will make my maxx burn rubber? 12 cells?
Will this bust belts in my pro 2? 6 cells?
What about my t3? 6 cells?
The motos is a c50 14.4 motor. Will it hurt it to run it with only 6 cells?

hurry i need an answer quick before i goto bed... Thanks again everyone!

[RCmaniac324]

Yes, that will make your Maxx mad powerful.....just one of those motors is enough: I have heard of trannys exploding with two. :D :p

As for running in your Pro 2 or T3: DON'T DO IT!!!! It won't even fit, but even if it did, it would wreak serious havok on the drive trains, and literally destroy them quite fast.

As for running on 6 cells, I wouldn't know. Since it says its a 14.4V motor, I can only guess that it won't run well, if at all, with less than 14.4V.

So no, if you are looking for an Ideal motor for all three, it is definately not worth the money in that it can only be used in one (the maxx)

[Prinler]

Alright. Well my Goal is to get a really good motor that WILL work with all 3. ( if i can) with out loosing to much power. I am thinking Novak. I want to have too much power, If i have to replace a belt every month or more im ok with that :)

oh hey... If i purchase that set up for my maxx. Is there a way i can just take off the ESC... and swap it.... get maybe a Lehner Motor on a novak ESC?

[k_sw31]

Prinler- It sounds like you could get the controller, a C50 for your maxx, and a C40 for your pro 2/t3, and that would work out well :)

[Prinler]

Fine Design R/C doesnt sell that motor. :(
what motor comes next in line to the c40?

[Mr. Constructor]

To Prinler:

The Maxx Motor can be run at 6 cells but it will deliver only half the rpm and half the power (it´s that easy, sorry no other answer) :p

As for the BL Motors:

The Maxx motor is a little heavy, try a B50 S (with a wind around 8 T for your T3 and your Pro 2.

If you have the money, buy two Motors and 1 ESC (better: 2 ESC ;) )
OK, the T3 and the Pro 2 will work great with a B50 S (wich is similar to the C 40, except the housing) or try out a lehner Basic line Motor, these are great too.

The Hacker car sport or lehner warrior will work both in any constellation (hacker - lehner ESC etc.)

But the Novak ESC could ONLY be used with sensored Motors, because it NEEDS the Signals, without it will not comutate.
The Motor from Novak runs on the Hacker and Lehner ESC well, but only up to 33 000 RPM because the Novak is a 6 Pole Motor so the rpm is reduced from 100 000 to 33 000 (1/3)
As you see the Novak solution is a very Firm style solution it has NOT to work with the others that well !!
And has poor power due to the magnet material, wich is slightly better than the other "normal" Motors it´s not a neodymium type.

As for the solution :

Look out a Maxx Motor, and a Lehner or Hacker ESC (the Warrior is a lot cheaper) and a second motor for your T3 and Pro 2 (might be a B 50 S with 8T or similar Lehner setup.

The Warrior is much smaller and lighter, maybe this is a help in the decision.

see ya

(you can use the B 50 S in the Maxx too but then select a fewer Winds (around 12T) that will work in all 3 Cars !! )

[RadicalRustler]

The novak says it uses neodyium magnets at their site.

Prinler, At rumrunnerhobbies, theres pics of peoples maxxes with the 4200 b/c it can go up to 12+ cells. If you stuck it in you pro2 and t3 on six cells that could also work.

[Mr. Constructor]

To Prinler:

Be careful when using a 4300 er or smilar in rpm on 14.4 V, the Rpm really goes up, and the winding is not capable of handling these RPM (most ESC will cut it after 70 000 RpM to prevent the Magnets from exploding on the Rotor
THIS could really damage your BL and your esc !!
When you wanna use the BL in a Maxx and a 6 cell car, you have to make a compromise that you can use the motor up to 12 cells.
Best Way: one BL for 6 cell Cars (maybe a 5300 er Lehner)
and one Bl for the Maxx (the Hacker 14.4V version of it´s C 50 will be very good)

To Radical Rustler:

I´ve seen the Motor some years ago in an advertise in a german
flight magazine, this motor has had only a "normal" magnet material, and if it has this and the benefits of the BL technology, it will be good enough to chase around and will be very cheap to produce for novak (same with esc, because it doesn´t need the 3D Programming algorithm that you need to get sensorless BL´s running, the programming is very hard, this is the reason why the Esc´s w/o Sensor are a little costly, but in the Time the production units rises up and the higher pricing went down, you´ve more chances on running BL with only one ESC !!
(all sensored ESC´s WILL need a sensored BL, they cannot work without, but a sensorless ESC can work with a sensored Motor.

As for the Warrior, I´ve tested mine, That arrived today at my Hobby Shop, and I could say that it´s a good ESC the Kontronik is a little better to programm (has more funktions)
but when am searching only for a Car ESC (I only Drive Cars eh ok one Boat . . .)
It´s a very good solution.
One Bad thing:

It´s not working with my Lehner 1520 Motor, this is the same thing happend to me some Years ago with a prototype version of the Lehner ESC (this one is totally differend and new from the ground up.)
But it´s working with all GM Racing, Kontronik, Hacker, Ikarus and the Jeti Motors too.
I cannot say if this Problem occurs when you use the basic line ??
If you are all searching for a good versatile and cheap ESC for almost any Kind of Car I will take the Warrior to a closer look.
(esp. the 7018/3 BEC RC Car version)
It´s working with almost every Motor (including the Novak and the aveox and the Plettenberg ones)

Maybe it´s easier for you to get your hands on one of the Lehner Warriors than on the (in some ways better) GM ESC wich is double the cost, hopefully this will help you out.
One last thing, the ESC is the same basic dimension than the Hacker Car Version but only 3rd the height and almost half the price !!

see ya

[Prinler]

Im confused.

Is the HAcker c50 MAxx 14.4v
And Master Car Sport ESC the better set up to get?
This is my main one i want. Only problem is that someone told me it wont fit in a standard TC 540 hole. So I just want to find something CHEEPER then the C40 that will work with the same ESC maybe even and has close to the same power.

Put it this way and bare with me. Think of me as slow, I have a comprihention lerning disability.:mad:

What does everyone Run in there T3's? for motors and ESC? for 6 cells. let me know im buying today.

[k_sw31]

Prinler-

What I would do is
Buy the controller and the C50 your planning on
then buy a 5300 for you t3/pro 2
then all you have to do is switch the controller out :D

[Prinler]

Now thats understandable

[RadicalRustler]

comprihention lerning disability.:mad:
Apparently, you also have a spelling disablilty:p :p
j/k

[Prinler]

What is the better ESC if i wanted to grab a second ESC for the warrior 5300?

[Prinler]

HEHE Anyone wanna buy my EVX? hehehe :)

Order Number: *****
Date: 12/30/2002
Order Amount: $654.95
Standard Shipping: $23.00
Total Amount: $677.95


Oh boy oh boy i love Credit Cards :)

[k_sw31]

So what did you order?

Heh, I gotta get me one of them, too bad I cant :p

[yf22k]

I'm wondering the same thing as Prinler i think...I'm looking to buy a lehner 5300 motor for my tb evolution II. Right now i'm planning to buy another 7108 warrior speed control...I'm wondering if there is a better controller for the 5300 motor. thanks

[Prinler]

Thank you for doing business with Fine Design.Order Number: *****
Product ID: 449
Description: Lehner Warrior 7018 brushless ESC with reverse
Price: $131.95
Quantity: 1
Amount: $131.95
Product ID: 562
Description: Hacker C50 Maxx motor 14.4v
Price: $219.00
Quantity: 1
Amount: $219.00
Product ID: 444
Description: Lehner Basic Brushless Motor - #5300
Price: $105.00
Quantity: 1
Amount: $105.00
Product ID: 561
Description: Hacker Master Car/Truck Sport Speed Control
Price: $199.00
Quantity: 1
Amount: $199.00
Name: Steve Pritchard
Company:
Address1: 4
Address2: 611 10th
City: Paso Robles
State: California
Zip: 93446
Country: United States
Phone: 805-238-6769
E-Mail: hiimsteve@charter.net
Deliver Date:
Payment Method: credit_card
Account Name: Steve Pritchard
Card Type: Visa
Order Sub Total: $654.95
Standard Shipping $23.00
Grand Total: $677.95



Tell me how good i did :)

[RadicalRustler]

A lot better than me!

[k_sw31]

Lets just say your E-maxx and your other cars will haul a$$, but your wallet wont exactly thank you for it :p

[Prinler]

The Government is paying for it.

Good thing i ordered the BL i just blew both my motors!
the "TITAN" they slide. It Slid over the fan cooling vents... and they fried. I wondered if that would be a problem... i GUESS SOO! lol
I sware to god i didnt do this on pourpose!!! or how ever you spell it :)

The Government is paying for it.

[k_sw31]

How can I get the government to pay for my stuff??????????????????? :D

[Prinler]

Tax Return :)

[k_sw31]

Damn :p

[Soya]

Hello, I'm in Vegas, about 1734.27 miles from home:)

[Prinler]

Who cares?
.
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oh j/k :)
What the heck you doing there?

[RadicalRustler]

Well, if vegas has casinos, and its holiday season, i wonder what he's doin there?:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[k_sw31]

Yeaaaaaahhhhhh, hmmmmmm, what could he be doing???? :confused: :confused: :confused: :p






I'm in Chelan (Washington) :D we got 15 inches of snow too :D

[RadicalRustler]

I'm down here in Canada and we got a second snowfall last week (other stuff melted) and it is almost all gone. Yes!!!!. When my 4-tec comes (hopefully this week) i can drive it outside.

[RadicalRustler]

Whats with the .27 on the end of your long trip home? and are there computers in a casino?:p :p :p

[Mr. Constructor]

Hi there !

Sorry about the long explanation, but I think it´s a better way to describe exactly where the differencies are, so people can choose on their own.

To yf22k :

No matter, as for the ESC, the Warrior or the 7018/3 BEC is avery good solution, I´ve bought mine yesterday and It runs fine will all my motors except the lehner 1520er type with a 7 T Winding (maybe the starting Amp is too great??)
But I think this esc will run with the Basic line !!
Get a 4xxx or 5300 (the 5300 is very good for offroad and the other one might be good in sedan, it has not this brutal torque!!)
The Schulze and GM Speed Commander 2 (or from Kontronik)
have more programms and the ability to connect them to a PC and they´re a little smoother AND a little bit more powerfull in slow RPM, but they´re the double Price.

Many People have bought a Lehner Combo and many bought a Hacker Combo, as I knew both, the differencies are:

Hacker:

Better Motor, ESC a little too much money

Lehner:

Better smaller lighter ESC and the Motor is not that great as the hacker (esp. the Hacker B 50 S has a wide range of Winds to choose from)

So making a decision becomes easier (hopefully :p )

Have a nice new year, all of you, see you in 1 year (höhöhöhö)

[cprclark]

Which is the best brushless motor / speed controller for a team losi xxx-4?

Hacker?

Lehner?

Novak?

Orion?

Model number of motor/speed controller you would recommend?

Best price and URL of store?

Thanks:D

[yf22k]

Thanks Mr. Constructor...I have till spring to decide what i'm going to get...right now i have a lenher 4200 and 7018 combo. Its not bad but i really dont' have any other brushless systems to campare it to. It runs great except for the fact that it doesn't allow you to go to full trottle from a standstill.

[Soya]

Hehe, gambling's fun:)

[Prinler]

Soyo. I hate you. Its Always been a dream to go there on new years. only problem.. is Where in las vagas hehehe. there are so many places to go. what ones better? hehe.

Mr. Constructor no voodoo chainting in the forum please :)



Anyone know how long it will take for fine design to send my 2 brushless systems?

I over spent but i know i will be happy for the rest of my life :)

oh where do i get replacment berrings :) HAHA for future referance :)

[k_sw31]

I think it took about 2 weeks or so for my order to get here, but I'm on the other side of the country from where they are :)


I'm wondering the same thing as Prinler i think...I'm looking to buy a lehner 5300 motor for my tb evolution II. Right now i'm planning to buy another 7108 warrior speed control...I'm wondering if there is a better controller for the 5300 motor. thanks

Yf22k- You may want to consider buying say a schulze 18.61 or something similar, they are only about 50$ more and from what fine design tells me they have absolutley no hesitation- its the ESC they use for dragging :)

[Mr. Constructor]

To Prinler:

What ME ??? I´m voodooing?? not me !!(j/k) . . . maybe a little !! :p

OK, back to reality:

To YF 22K:

As for a Team Losi xxx 4 I would suggest a lehner 4xxx or 5300 series (if you really want this speed) or a Hacker C 40 8 T (more money, better housing)
And for the esc it´s also your wallet that makes the decision, for a very good price a very good esc is the Warrior (7018er) if you really want a better one, the Schulze (18xx) or the Graupner (Speed Commander 2) is recommended, but they will double the price !! (if you don´t need the pure power up to 1000 W and the PC connection etc. than choose the Warrior).

Please tell us all, wich system you are using in the xxx 4 (after you´ve made a decision) and how will it perform??

Wich projekts are you all planning up to now,can you give us some Pics or descriptions, might be useful to see what other crazy things are done in the world :p
Shall we make a new forum only for pics and descriptions (a try was made with this some days ago, but maybe it´s better to point out with pics ??)

He Soya what´s up with you, don´t play too much money, you will need it for RC !! :p
What´s the weather in Vegas (about 8.000 miles away from me, sniff!!)
You lucky one . . .

[yf22k]

thanks for the new suggestion and opinions Mr Constructor and k_sw31 on the schulze controller...does the schulze 18.61 have proportional brakes, reverse, and BEC? i'll be researching it after i post but i would also like any opinions about them...thanks

[jkoppk]

I made the choice to go brushless in my Associated 12L3 car and was wondering what your opinions are on the motor and speed control I plan on buying.I want the Hacker C40 8 turn and the Hacker Master Car Sport speed control.I found the C40 for $160 and the speed control for $189.Are there any cheaper prices out there or are these prices a good deal?Is this the best speed control for the C40?Thanks for any help.

[cprclark]

Mr. Constructor,

Thank you for the good info.

Rumrunner has both the Lehner basic 5300 and Warrior 1870 controller for only $229.

http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/default2.htm

Tower hobbies is selling the Novak system for $235 and the system should be in stock next week.

Do you think the Novak system is any good?

Does anyone have any experience with the Novak system?

Both the Lehner and Novak systems seem to be very comparible in terms of price and performance.

Anyone have opinions on which route they would go?

Thanks :D

[RCmaniac324]

I just want to run my BL again!!!!!:( :( :( :( I got it the day b4 Christmas, was able to install it, run it twice, and ever since its been raining/snowing/too wet outside!!! It's like a curse has fallen on me. It was supposed to be nice untill later today, so I was hoping it would dry up and allow me to drive... but no, now it's raining.:( Oh well. I'll just have to be sure to run it a lot when it finally does dry up to make up for all this lost time.

[RCmaniac324]

Double post

[FTR]

hey could you guys give me a sugestion.


i am running a stampede with masher 2k tires, ttr gear reduction unit, and 6 3300 cells

what i want.

long runtimes
good power
smooth acceleration

[Prinler]

Lehner #4200 Basic $105
Warrior 7018 with reverse - $131.95

[FTR]

i was just looking on tower and the novak sustem has the stuff i want for a good price

here is a link


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDD7&P=7

prinler: thank you for your sugjestions where can i order these components

[Prinler]

http://www.finedesignrc.com/cars-trucks.asp
http://www.hackerbrushless.com/cars.shtml
http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/


Novak :( dont do it.
I have be told by many many peeps not to get that .... not yet. MAybe they will come out with something better. but as of now. The the price. Lehner motors are awsome! Lots of everything for a low cost. Just like Tradional ESC.. it doesnt truly matter what controler you get to control the BL motor. some work better then others. If you have Unlimited funds. 1940 Lehner for $240 and the Hacker. See attached pix. :)

[Prinler]

http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2563&item=3102646954&rd=1



What an Amazing price! $100 for a BL motor!
someoen buy this! i will pay ya back :)

[FTR]

prinler what is the difference between the 4200 and the 5300?

[Prinler]

The 4200 is going to have a bit more torque . the 5300 is ment prolly more for TC's 42 for ST's MT ect

[FTR]

so if i got the 4200 it would work well in my pede and b3 that would be nice!

[Prinler]

The 4200 would be the best thing to get for good torque for both. with the Extra torque you can gear up to Haul past any nitro :) and its not the expensive :) Just Remember this should last you forever, so Splerge

[Soya]

I like money:)

[Prinler]

I LOVE TO SPEND MONEY.... Dont care whos it is.... LOVE TO SPEND IT!

[Mr. Constructor]

To cprclark :



DON´T try the Novak, as you might only reuse the motor with another (newr esc) because of the Sensoring, the Novak ESC is only able to work with Sensored Motors, did anyone see any other than Aveox and Novak using them any more ???
(j/k) but the system without the Sensores is much more comfortable for the users, because you are the one who decides on what Motor and wich ESC.

Also the Lehner and the Hacker too are a lot more powerfull than the Novak as the Novak uses 6 pole Motors, the most Hacker and Lehner Motors are 2 pole, so the ESC´s (all brands !!) will, not have a RPM limit at 35 000 RPM they can spin up to a 100 000 !!

To YF22K:

The Problem with the Spin up under heavy pulling the trigger is due to the electronic Processor that has to find the best point to comutate, that´s normal for that price class (if you spend 2-3 times the money this doesn´t occur!!
As for the more powerful motor: try out a C 40S 6T or a Lehner 5300, these will have much more power and you have already got the ESC!!
(the Schulze is another class of its own (together with the BEAT Series from Kontronik) they´re the best ones out there but the most Costly ones too !! for some great fun and some racing the lehner and the Hacker are very excellent the upper 10 000 Class comes only in handy if you want to power a special car (8th up)

To RCmaniac324:

Have you tried that good old plastic garbage bag?? wrap it around the Car and use tape to secure, if the Hot area gets a small wooden stand up, all is fine we are using this in every rainy race we fight if done right, the car is nearly waterproved (OK, the Batterys are hard to get . . .some S*** happens) ;)

To Prinler

Be careful when buying used BL´s the inner winding might be defect, you will not see this on benchmark-as-you-see-it-runs-test, the windings might only short cut during Heavy Amp loads, you don´t know if the Magnets have been treated over 120°C too (this, for longer (some MIn) period might slow them or destroy them)
Some guys had seen the explosion of the magnets, that´s awful !!
(Spending other Peoples Money . . .A dream for every RC enthusiast . . .:D )

See ya !!

[Prinler]

I Cant Wait. Im trying to get in Contact with Finedesign To see if it has already been shipped. If not If i can pay more for expidited shipped. like Next day air. :) its like Christmas all over again ! :)

[BLK]

OK, I've had the hacker bl system for a few weeks and after a couple of rough weeks with setup on the car, I think I am about ready for a review.

Right now I have the setup in my losi xxx-t. It is fast. It has much more punch than with a stock motor; so much so, that at the top end it spins out. I think I need to tweak my setup on the car becuase it pushes through corners way too much. I am thinking of perhaps weighing down the front end, it is so bad, but I'm sure a few suspension tweaks may help a bit.

The motor itself (C40 7t) is very well built. Quite a bit larger and heavier than I thought. Seems like it will last forever.

The Speed controller is also very big. It would not fit into the tc3 with a standard sized servo. It is smooth. Hesitates a bit on initial startup, but overall the modulation is excellent.

I can't wait to get this setup in my tc3. I am still awaiting Tower to get in the S9550 digital servo (small size). Any other suggestions for a similar sized servo from another brand? Any ideas who else carries Futaba servos besides tower?

Thanks,
BLK

[Prinler]

Alright guys listen up. I was curious about my order from Finedesignrc. Called Long Distance to NY i think. We talked for lik 45mins. Who guys who awnsers is Chris Fine. The Owner of 20 years. He knows EVERYTHING! :) If you have anyquestions, ANY at ALL!!!!!! Call him! He was so easy to talk to. He told me gearing options for all my cars and trucks. Made Recomendations. And even payed the difference for my shipping. Was 6-9 day shipping. Told me he would Orange lable it (3 day Select). He is a Super nice guy. The Reson, you may ask, of me saying all this. If your even remotly interested in Brushless. Goto THIS PAGE (http://www.finedesignrc.com/default.htm) Order from him. He is very knowlageable, has good prices, and he will answer any questions you may have!

Wish i called him 2 months ago.. :)

Hope this helps someone out there :)

Peace

[andy497]

I spoke to Chris Fine too when I ordered from them. He is a good guy.

Anyhoo, I recently got a xxx-4 together with my brushless system in it (lehner 5300 and schulze 18.61). Well, in a sentence, it is very very sweet.

Compared to my buggy, having the power to 4 wheels makes a tremendous difference. The torque is such that I can pretty much leap over jumps with very little acceleration time/distance needed. The down-side is steering is a little more tricky. When you hit the throttle, the front wheels come loose, so you lose all steering and just push. With my buggy, I could hit the throttle to whip the back end around for tight corners. It's something I'm getting used to, it's just a little different. The other big difference is the massive braking. The brakes were almost useless on my buggy because they would almost always cause the back end to slip into a slide. The first time out with my xxx-4, I was amazed when I ground to a complete halt at the end of the fast straight after hitting the brakes. After getting used to them a bit, they are very responsive and don't cause the car to use control. Very useful.

All in all, I would say brushless is excellent for a xxx-4. It handles it very well and seems to be much easier to control than a 2wd.

[yf22k]

Hey andy497 i've been looking at the schulze 18.61 controller. I have a Lehner warrior 7018 right now. I'm wondering if there is BEC on the 18.61. Also can you give full throttle from a standstill or do you have to ease it on? thanks

[hooked911]

Im looking at going brushless for my rc cars. The cars that i will be using is a t3 and a xxx4. What would be a good setup for RACING? I need a setup for racing not bashing or all out speed. What im wanting is good control(no clogging) and power that i can handle. I have been looking at the novak system, but i keep hearing bad things about it. So what should i use and why? Please keep it simple as i dont know alot about brushless yet...

[Prinler]

For your needs. Lehner #5300 Basic
6-8 cell R/C car motor with 1/8th inch shaft and Lehner Warrior 7018 with reverse - would more then power your setups. Very Speedy and cheep too :) best of both worlds. Lehner is good :p
http://www.finedesignrc.com/cars-trucks.asp
Contact chris if you have any questions. he will help you faster and better then we can :)

[hooked911]

what is the difference between the following
Lehner Warrior 7018
Master Car/Truck sport ESC
New Schulze 18.61
Replaces the 58co controller
4 timing settings w/reverse and brakes


The motor looks good but is the 7018 the best speedo for what im wanting to do. (btw this will be run on 6 cells)

[RadicalRustler]

You might want the shulze 18.61 b/c it is used in drag racing b/c it has no cogging. The 7018 needs a reciever pack for 6 cells to stop cogging yet once in a while it will work wihout cogging w/o a reciver pack and w/ a reciever pack will cog. Chances are though, it will cog without a pack.

[yf22k]

Radical rustler are you talking about the hesitation when you give full throttle from a standstill?

[RadicalRustler]

yep

[yf22k]

Ok i'll have to try that...i currently have a 7018 which i use bec...i should try without. I also have a schulze 18.61 coming soon. So i can get some wheelspin from a standstill when i use a reciever pack huh?

when i run my 7018 with bec i can only get the wheels to spin when i peg the throttle when the car is moving at about 1/4 throttle. Its amazing that the wheels still spin at this speed lol

[RCmaniac324]

It's not really a hesitation...its more of a complete glitch out untill you ease off the throttle, b/c I have done this and no matter how long I hold the trigger, it will not catch untill I release the throttle and engage it 1/2 to 3/4 of the way and smoothly do the rest. I am still to try a trick I think I heard somewhere in these boards, which is to turn the throttle trim up untill the motor is barely chirping or untill the mark right b4 it starts moving. (Can't now b/c the environment has gone against me and kept it wet outside ever since I got my setup. :( :( :( ) to see if that helps any.

And I am that oddball case that RadicalRustler was talking about whose system coggs w/ the reciever pack, not w/o like normal. Other than that glitch on startup (which I am learning to control the throttle to avoid), it doesn't cogg at all.:) Other than that, my system is great. Any other tips from you guys on how to minimize or get rid of this glitch upon full-throttle start up (besides buying another controller, cuz I'm broke now :p ) Would be a great help and would be greatly appreciated.

[JonDax]

Does this speed control have BEC?

What's a good gear for the XXX4 with this esc and 1520 motor? Does it gear like a hot mod motor?

[nmt6789]

How would my tc3 do with the new novak ss brushless system?? Would i strip the diff gears easily???

[jkoppk]

I bought a Hacker C40 6T motor and a Schulze 12.97 speed control and was wondering what the maximum amount of cells I can run with the motor.I'm thinking of doing some speed runs with my TC3 with 12 Sanyo 3300 cells in it between races I attend every few weeks.I'm curious as to how fast it will go.My buddy has a radar gun and we clock our cars when we chaneg things.

[Prinler]

I hear bad things about the Novak. Wait on it. or go lehner or hacker or the shaultz?

[RCmaniac324]

:D :D :D It finally dried up last night!!!!! So my batt is currently charging for my truck's first run in a week and a half. :D ............But it's due to rain again tonight :(, so I'll have to make the most of my time by running it over and over. :) :p

[Micha_MX4]

i read all 56 pages of this thread (I needed 3 days...) and last night I dreamt about brushless...

Happy New Year guys!

Mike

[RadicalRustler]

lucky u! It took me 3 days to read 35/36 pages. aNd welcome to the site Micha_MX4!

[k_sw31]

Hehe> Another one sucked into the vortex :D

[Micha_MX4]

yep, got hooked...

well about what I was thinking for my 4WD-buggy is a
GM-Racing EVO-1 8Turn motor (about 115 Euro, about 5250 rpm/Volt, Neodym) and an Kontronik 70-6-12 Car esc about 240 Euro?)

Why?
1. the motor is inexpensive, a car motor and quite a while an the market. Sufficient power for my 6 cell powered MX-4. A Hacker C40-8s is simply to heavy and expensive for my case.

2. the Kontronik esc is available (GM-Racing speed commander 2 is said to be available in February (still working on software...)) and has a 2A BEC AND is a specific car-controller and I think that is important. The software is extremley important for a sensorless system and I think you'll loose performance with a flight-software in your esc.
The Kontronik is said to be the base for the GM speed commander. (I was thinking about Schulze but the 58Ce (and you need this coz for the BEC) is about 270 €...)

Both together is about 350 € (=$) - still a lot of money...

What do you guys think about my thoughts?

greetings from Ingolstadt, Germany!

And there will it be put in:
http://mike-high.bei.t-online.de/pictures/PIC00020.jpg
http://mike-high.bei.t-online.de/pictures/PIC00005-klein.jpg

[andy497]

About the 18.61:

I have one in my xxx-4. Yes, you can hit instant full throttle and it will tear off with no hesitation. I just about lost my belt when I first tried this after getting it together. A little belt tensioning and slipper adjustment had this fixed though. Still, on a dirt track, I can hammer the throttle and spin all four wheels for maybe half of the long straight. I would think that the schulze would be great for racing (can hammer the throttle, smooth acceleration, no cogging at any speed, very little heat), which is what somebody asked, but you have to keep in mind that very few tracks allow brushless for racing. :-(

Also, it is non-bec. Any schulze that supports bec ends with a CE (e.g. 58ce) in the model. This is a bummer, but it was worth it for me because of the drastically reduced cost. On my current receiver (futaba), I can wire it directly off the battery. (it accepts up to 8.4V) This works flawlessly. However, I'm moving to a hitec receiver very shortly that won't take voltage this high, so I need a rx batt pack. I found a trinity NiMH 650 mah 5 cell AAA pack at my LHS for $20. Not too bad, and although it adds weight, the weight of the pack (it's tiny) plus the brushless motor is still less than any standard brushed motor. I will also get more servo power/speed versus standard 4.8V by going to 6.0V according to the hitec manual. I'll let you folks know how this turns out when I get the stuff in the mail.

To Micha:
Yes, I dream about brushless every night. :)

[Popop]

:)
There's now a Hall of Fame for all successful B/L cars at
http://rcsaga.com/bl

That's Showtime !!:p

[Micha_MX4]

just bought an Schulze ECOLADER+ at ebay - i needed a new charger - now I have to wait 'til March to get my BL setup.

we will see, if GM-Racing brings their new SpeedCommander 2
on the market (it seems to be actually a Kontronik 70-6-12 BEC with
GM-Racing software) at the GM-news 2002 it was called "70-6-12"
...by mistake.... ;-)

Concerning the "glitching" at full throttle: i think it's because the battery packs that are used can't deliver the current that is requested: the voltage brakes down and the esc stops. If we're talking about 40 amp's and more than are there not much cells that can actually deliver so much amp's... I think (correct me if I'm wrong) that even the Sanyo 3000 HV's can't give you 50 amp's for more than an instance. Sanyo 2400 seems to be the best choice for brushless - what do you think?

thanx,
Micha

[TGA]

Hi guys after 5+ days of reading this thread and others on this board as well as various other sites mentioned here. I am looking to get back in to r/c cars and I would love to go brushless. I believe the motors and controllers have come along way since I first herd of them being used in cars and trucks. Anyway I am looking for some advice. I have never built anything but Associated cars in the past but I think this time I would like something slightly larger to handle all the power of a BL.

I would like to modify an HPI Super Nitro Rally RS4. I have seen it mentioned that the super nitro is suitable for conversion but I would really prefer the shaft drive of the rally. I figure I could get the kit now along with a controller and 2 servos and run it how it was meant to be run till I can afford a BL setup for it.

I guess the first thing I want to know is if you guys know think the car is suitable. This way I can place the order for the car and get building. I am really excited to be getting back in to the sport if you haven’t noticed.

I have never owned a nitro car before but I assume this car uses the throttle servo to break and I guess this complicates things a little? Could some one explain how I would setup the electronics for a car like this? I am not concerned with the mounting of the motor at this point but I assume it is going to take some custom work.

Also I am thinking about running 8-10cells. My reason for this is that it seems the electronics used for BL are better suited for higher voltage. To me it seems that even a 3300 6cell isn’t really meant to provide the amount of amps some of these setups require. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

Anyway when specking hardware for my setup please assume I am going to be using up to 10cells. I think a motor around 4000rpm per volt rating would be as high as I should go. I guess I could also use something with a decent size can in this car right? Or do they not make a strong enough drive train for this car? I have also been leaning towards a lehner motor as I believe it was mentioned that they could be wired for a less power if I desire.

Ok well if you haven’t noticed I am no expert on R/C cars so please be kind and forgive anything stupid I may have said. Also I am sorry for the long post. Thanks for your time and any advice or criticism is welcome.

[Soya]

You don't have to get a Lehner motor for less power. Get a Shulze 18.61 or 18.97, it has 5 different timing modes.

[Prinler]

the HPI Nitro shaft drives are very convertable. Chris Fine from Fine design rc did just that. He told me he smokes everyone at the track. They dont know what to think of it. Well worth it. I have a HPI belt drive and im bumin cause im gonna be stripping belts out. no huge deal. :) i went lehner. It will be here on Thursday. Let ya know how it goes. :)

[RCmaniac324]

Hey guys, this has the potential to be a long post, so please hold on tight and bear with me. :p

Well, I found out that: 1 BL motor-slipper clutch+dead,slipping diff(didn't know it was slipping)+truck+8.5Volt freshly peaked battery all= diff meltage. :D :p I took my tranny apart wondering why it wasn't running as fast as it did the first two times I ran it, and ripped apart my diff, and discovered half the balls in the main gear (anywhere from 4 to 8 out of 12) had melted into and deformed the holes they were in.....so I decided to stop my diff slippage once and for all by removing all of the balls (yes, even the really tiny ones around the adjustment screw) and lock it down so tight that I couldn't turn the allen key any more...

Well, i got around to running it today, and the performance was somewhat dissapointing and absolutely, positively confusing as hell. What it did was when I gave it throttle as I normally would (1/2to 3/4 then slowly do the rest), it would over-rev off the start, yet this isn't possible in any dimention. My drivetrain has maybe 1/4 inch at most of play betwen when I start rotating the spur gear by hand till when the wheels start turning....yet somehow my BL motor managed to over-rev w/o turning the wheels at the speed they should have been moving at that rev with a locked tranny :confused: :confused: :confused: I am just very confused as to how a motor can rev way up into it's powerband while only barely starting to move the drive wheels, and still not be as fast as it used to at WOT :confused: :confused: I still have to tear down my tranny tonight to see if somehow, someway, under the powers of god, in an alternate dimension my diff managed to come loose...

So what am I doing wrong guys? It would make sense to me that the motor would only beep, shreik, and groan if it couldn't push the load at first, not rev-up and defy all laws of physics in that it would spin very fast but the parts engaged to it won't. :confused: :confused: :confused: Did removing the diff balls and locking it up to kingdom come do me in for this seemingly physics-law defying problem, or is it something else??? Now to go put on my dinner then start tearing down my tranny..........

[BLK]

All righty then! I just ordered another system. This time from finedesign. I am picking up a lehner 5300/ schultze 18.61 combo to throw in my TC3 (Keeping the c40/carmaster in my xxx-t). So hopefully this setup will fit without a small sixed servo in TC3.

Next project in the works is an e-maxx. I just have to sell my once used t-maxx first (had a buyer on the trade/sale forum but he backed out :-( ) Man this bl stuff is mad for the wallet, very addicting and quite expensive!


Any recomendations on rx packs? Thanks!

BK

It will be interesting to have a direct comparison between the schultze & carmaster esc's.

[BLK]

All righty then! I just ordered another system. This time from finedesign. I am picking up a lehner 5300/ schultze 18.61 combo to throw in my TC3 (Keeping the c40/carmaster in my xxx-t). So hopefully this setup will fit without a small sixed servo in TC3.

Next project in the works is an e-maxx. I just have to sell my once used t-maxx first (had a buyer on the trade/sale forum but he backed out :-( ) Man this bl stuff is mad for the wallet, very addicting and quite expensive!


Any recomendations on rx packs? Thanks!

BK

It will be interesting to have a direct comparison between the schultze & carmaster esc's.

[andy497]

As far as rx packs, this is the one I'm running:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKM2&P=0

It's tiny, about the size and shape of my receiver. So far so good with this, although my intellipeak charger seems to want to over-charge it.

To rcmaniac, it is probably a very bad idea to run without a diff. The best case is your car still functions, but steering would still suffer since the inside and outside wheel would be forced to turn at the same speed. As far as melting a diff, this is easy to do if it is slipping. Your slipper should always slip before your diff. This can be hard to tell (especially with 4wd), but one way is to hold the wheels and hit the throttle with the gears visible. If the pinion/spur spins but not the rest of the gears, your slipper is doing the slipping and not the diff. This is what you want. (If the gears are all turning but not the drive shafts to the wheels, your diff is doing the slipping) Ideally, your diff should be just tight enough that it doesn't slip before the slipper, and your slipper should be tight enough that it just slips a little when you punch the throttle. According to the losi manual, if you put your car on the best traction part of the track, the slipper should slip for the first 1-2 ft. when you punch the throttle but no more. You also don't want it too tight though, as that can be equally hard on your transmission.

As far as being able to lock down your diff with the balls removed, I would be sceptical. I would think your locknut would strip before this would happen.

I can say though that with diffs/slippers properly adjusted, both my 2wd and 4wd buggies' transmissions and diffs are still cool to the touch after aggressive runs under brushless. This would not be the case though without ball bearings now that I think of it. Is your car all ball bearing? If not, I would definitely do that right away. A bearing kit can be as cheap as $20 or so if you look around. Also, I think diff rebuild kits go for that or less depending on manufacturer. Just my 2 cents.

[RCmaniac324]

Andy497- Thanx for your reply, but I tracked the answer down to that the adjustment screw just can't tighten enough to even begin to tighten on the gear w/o the balls in it, so out came the super glue, and within 2 minutes I ripped the super glue too. :D :p So tomorrow out comes the epoxy, the RCers glue (because super-glue just won't do the job right.):D :p ........

BTW, I'm not racing, just bashing, so the whole steering capability thing is something I don't really care about, all I want are speed and acceleration with average handling...If I ever start racing I'll just buy another diff for about $20-30 and switch them out at will.......as it is I think the steering is if anything improved, except I must let off the throttle more due to the extra speed. :D :p

[tc3punk]

this is Kufman from the MT board's (maybe he's on these too, I'm not sure:rolleyes: ) TC3

I'll have a better vid soon...

it's got a 4200 motor, Hacker Car Sport controller, and on 10 cells..

the vid tells the story:D
right click, save as

BL TC3 on 10 (http://www.imagestation.com/video/view.html?id=4241570638&dl=1)

[tc3punk]

here's a newer vid....
same setup, but, longer vid...
only 10mb for 1:30 min lol
:rolleyes:

rightclick/saveas (http://www.imagestation.com/video/view.html?id=4241374864&dl=1) :D

[jkoppk]

tc3punk

What size pinion and spur gear are you using on the speed run?

[Soya]

Originally posted by Prinler
I have a HPI belt drive and im bumin cause im gonna be stripping belts out.

How many times do I have to say this?!?!

YOU WON'T STRIP ANY FREAKING BELTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[tc3punk]

this is Kufman's, from the MT board's (maybe he's on these too, I'm not sure ), TC3

not mine...

Kufman's tc3....

read....

:rolleyes:

[Prinler]

Soyo. you obviously dont own my car. I Strip belts on a 12 turn motor.

[Soya]

It's SoyA, genius:rolleyes:
And yes, I do own a HPI belt car. I had the BL in it for a while, no problems whatsoever:rolleyes:
Maybe you should check the belt tension:rolleyes:

[Soya]

.

[Soya]

.

[fReShJiVe]

My New Blue Alex

[heretic]

nice pic......




i recently bought a hitec digital servohs5625mg and i keep having radio interferences with it....i wonder if it is because of the lamps that light the track,or somehing else....i use a brushed orion motor and hfx speedo,and i wanted to buy a bl setup(hackerc4s)for my tc3...my question is...:wil i have to buy another servo (analog)with a bl motor????i read that it was way more sensitive to digital interferences...thanx

[yf22k]

are you using BEC? the digital servo uses up more power than an analog servo...I had problems running that same servo with my brushless setup. The motor would stop after i gave it about half throttle because of the current draw. I ended up turning off BEC and running leads from the batterypack from the ESC side to the receiver for power...my futaba receiver accepts up to 8.4 volts.

[k_sw31]

Hey Prinler, I think SoyA ;) is trying to tell you that your not going to strip any belts :p

[BJMFH]

If you own a Hacker Master Sport ESC do NOT leave the battery hooked up to it for long periods of time. I made the mistake of leaving my pack of SMC 3300s connected and it started a fire and my whole car is ruined! The speed controller practically blew up, the chassis is melted beyond repair and all my electronics are shot, including my brushless motor.

In a fit a rage I decided to smash my car, seeing as how everything was basically ruined. The inside of a brushless motor does look interesting though, instead of magnets it's got like coiled orange wire all around the inside of the can.

Don't be stupid like me. Unplug your batteries! My FT RC10B3, brushless setup and batteries are all destroyed because of this little mistake. Unplug your f*cking batteries!

[k_sw31]

Hmmmmmmm, maybe I should start forming a new habit :rolleyes:

[RCmaniac324]

Freshjive-How the hell do you keep those wires coiled so tight??? I've tried in the past and mine are still coiled, but are in coils about 3/4 of an inch across. :confused: I would like to know. Thanx.

[k_sw31]

Coil the wires around a pen, then blow a heatgun or hairdryer on hot on them :)

[RCmaniac324]

I've tried that b4. I held it in the heat for 30 seconds and as soon as I let it go it uncoiled itself untill the coils were 3/4 of an inch across. Now I'm just confused.:confused:

[OptimaMan]

Hello guys! Finally did it. Sold my old Optima Mids (better change my name) and bought a brand new XXX-S graphite + kit. Nice kit BTW. Got a Lehner 5300 motor and Schulze 12.97 with BEC. (I figured I wouldn't go higher than 12 cells anyway). Geared it with 90/23 and 1.83 internal ratio. The car ran like a !#@$%$^&. It was going at least 30 mph in less than 1 second! Oh, tighten those belts and diff so you don't a, destroy belt, b, melt diff. I didn't lock the diff, just have them kind of tight so they don't slip.

I also have a Hacker C-40 6 turn on order (the guy emailed me that there's a 2 week delay from Hacker) and I also have a Hacker Master sport model coming soon. I didn't get the Lehner warrior esc because you guys say they "cog". The Schulze doesn't cog or anything whatsoever. The only problem with the Schulze is that any kind of servo tape won't stick to it for a long time. So, I servo taped it to the battery strap thing and heat shrinked it on! Now, the only problem is left/right balance. The Lehner 5300 is a light motor and the esc is on the right side with the battery. So, the car is heavier on the right side. I guess I'll just have to put just a little more tension on the right springs.

I've tried pinions 18, 23, and 27tooth. The 18 tooth pinion gear on it makes it run a couple of mph faster than all the stock TC3's on the racetrack. The 23 tooth is sooooo much faster that on one straightaway, I rearended one TC3, busted him up (felt bad about it), and my car did a wheelie for about 10 feet!!!! Everybody at the track was whoahhing! The 27tooth was so fast, that it was uncontrollable. At least 35 mph and I think almost 40. But, I think I got the controller too hot because after a couple of minutes, it shut down for a few seconds! Note, this is the Schulze 12.97 which is supposed to handle 97 amps continuous and 127 amps peak! I guess touring car, overgeared, on carpet track with traction compound does get the thing just a bit warm. It wasn't HOT, but it was definitely warm.

One thing I had difficulty getting used to is the smooooooth coasting and the loss of steering due to massive acceleration. Not to mention, my car's not even setup. I was lucky today.... broke only a couple of part. 1 front graphite a-arm, 2 rear hubs, 1 ball end stud, front shock ball end, and the body's all busted up. No fried motors, no stripped gears, no busted diff, ran 7 packs of 3300's.

The best thing... NO MORE COMM CUTTING AND MOTOR SPRAY!!!! Just air compressed the whole car and now it's new again!

One happy customer.

p.s. Keep on reading. When I get the Hacker C40 6 turn and Hacker Master sport controller, I'll put it up in the XXX-S and give you guys another report. Then I'll try swapping controllers and motors to test different combos. Next post: picture of my car.

[Soya]

Originally posted by BJMFH
If you own a Hacker Master Sport ESC do NOT leave the battery hooked up to it for long periods of time. I made the mistake of leaving my pack of SMC 3300s connected and it started a fire and my whole car is ruined! The speed controller practically blew up, the chassis is melted beyond repair and all my electronics are shot, including my brushless motor.

In a fit a rage I decided to smash my car, seeing as how everything was basically ruined. The inside of a brushless motor does look interesting though, instead of magnets it's got like coiled orange wire all around the inside of the can.

Don't be stupid like me. Unplug your batteries! My FT RC10B3, brushless setup and batteries are all destroyed because of this little mistake. Unplug your f*cking batteries!

Sorry to hear that man, I know what it's like to spend lots of money on something and have it destroyed. Maybe you should call Hacker about the warranty.

[OptimaMan]

Here's the pic I said I'd put up:

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

****!!!!
nice barracuda!!!! more pictures please!

[BJMFH]

Originally posted by Soya
Sorry to hear that man, I know what it's like to spend lots of money on something and have it destroyed. Maybe you should call Hacker about the warranty.

That's the worst part about it, the manual specifically states not to leave batteries plugged into the ESC. Besides I smashed everything because I was so pissed. I have no one to blame but myself for this mess. I'm just trying to get the word out. Thank you for your concern though. :D

[Soya]

Your welcome. I woulda done the same thing if my car was ruined. Smashed it:D

[spenzalii]

OptimaMan, You're the answer to my prayers:D j/k But that's exactly the setup I'm looking into. I won't be running my XXX-S on carpet any time soon, but I do want enough speed to hit the lot and embarrass a few nitro cars. Keep up the reports so I can have an idea which controller/motor setup to get. I may opt for the Schulze 18.61 (I hope that's the right one) if it can handle 12 cells for my other upcoming project

[Soya]

If I remember correctly, it can handle up to 18 cells. My motor can only take 12, though:(

[BLK]

Originally posted by BJMFH
That's the worst part about it, the manual specifically states not to leave batteries plugged into the ESC. Besides I smashed everything because I was so pissed. I have no one to blame but myself for this mess. I'm just trying to get the word out. Thank you for your concern though. :D

BJMFH,
I would still call Hacker and let them know what happened. I have a carmaster too, and like yours, my manual says to unplug the battery after use. However, the product seems to have some inherently dangerous characteristic. I would possibly expect it to short a battery pack or even short the esc, but melting your car??? That is ridiculous!! I would say that is too dangerous. I for one, am not always so concsiencous (sp?) as to unplug my batt pack from any car when I'm done running it. If I do it, and you as well, do it, so will many others. Imagine if that lead to something worse, say your bench catching fire, your garage, heck even your house! I would call and let them know, right away. Sounds like a product recall to me. Let me know what they say about it. I would be interested to know how many others have had this same thing happen to them, although I will bet there is no way they will tell you this. This should not happen. Why does the esc/battery catch fire when it is plugged and not running? What keeps it from catching fire while running it? Time? Well if that is the case, what if you run pack after pack, for several hours? Will the same thing happen? Why or why not?

This stinks, and something should be done.

BLK

[jkoppk]

OptimaMan!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Be warned if you plan on using that Hacker C40 6T with anything more than 6-7 cells avoid buying it.I too had ordered one from Fuller Fast Electrics and had bought the Schulze 12.97 control from Chris at fine Designs.The speed control arrived first because the motor was back ordered for 2 weeks and I called Chris because the instructions are in German to get hook up directions.He asked what car,motor,and number of cells I would be using.I told him a TC3 with the Hacker C40 6T and 7 cells to race and 12 cells for speed runs.He said if I used that combination the speed control would overheat or possibly pop some of the small ic's on the circuit board and reccomended the B50 8s which he said had loads more torque and real useable power without overheating the speed control.In fact he won't even carry that line of motors because he's tried them and thinks they are crap compared to the B series.Keep in mind he's tested about every combination in most every car and knows what he's talking about.And here's something that really pissed me off.Don't buy from Fuller's because it's not even a company,it's one 65 year old man in his garage with very limited experience with brushless motors.Yet when I asked him if the combination would work he's like yeah it's the best,and when I called to cancel the backordered motor the bastard charged me a $32 restocking fee for a motor he dosen't even have in stock.Now how the hell is that possible or legal?If you don't believe me about Fuller's ask Chris he knows him and has dealt with him.I just don't want to see you ruin that $270 speed control so I hope you and any others thinking of using the C40 with more than 6-7 cells read this.

[spenzalii]

5 dollar question for you guys. How many cells is the Lehner Basic 5300 rated for? If it will take 12 cells, great; I'll be able to move the motor from one car to the next. If not, will the B50 series motor fit in the XXX-S or a RC10L03? I know it will handle 6-8, which is perfect for the Losi, but the AE speed rig I want to build I'm not so sure of the best way to set it up (I want something that can handle 12 cells and as much gearing as possible to layeth the smacketh down on some modded nitro's around the way)

[fReShJiVe]

Originally posted by RCmaniac324
Freshjive-How the hell do you keep those wires coiled so tight??? I've tried in the past and mine are still coiled, but are in coils about 3/4 of an inch across. :confused: I would like to know. Thanx.

if you were to use a pen it would definitely coiled larger.....for me i use my HUDY 1.5mm hex tool and coil the wires around it not the handle but the hex shaft....no heating needed...just hold it on for maybe 20-30sec and you're done

NMT_RACER_BOY- i'll take more pics soon...so stay tune :D

[andy497]

To optima, that's basically my exact setup on my xxx-4. Just picture dirt tires instead of road. I had to put the esc over the battery as well. There just isn't room on the left side. I have a mini rx battery in the traditional esc spot behind the motor though, so I think weight distro is maybe slightly better.

I noticed you have the same problem with the lehner wires coming straight back though. On a related note with this, I was racing the other day and my buggy ground to a halt while running along the back stretch and caused an accident with two other cars. It continued ok, but any bumps would cause it to do the same. It would glitch like crazy with the wheels vibrating but not turning. From previous experience, I know this happens when one of the leads to the motor is disconnected but the other two are still plugged in, but I checked the connections and couldn't find any problems. Anyway, I got it home and peeled back the shrink-wrap on the lehner 5300 motor leads. It turns out the female connector had cracked loose of the soldier and was only connecting intermittently. A quick fix with a soldier gun and I was back in action.

I also found that the three leads coming out of the motor are actually low guage braided copper wire. This is good news, as I was afraid to bend them over sharply to fit in my car. All you lehner guys should feel better about bending the leads, since they are not solid metal that could crack but braided strands.

Finally, about the schulze controlers. The first number (e.g. 12, 18) is the number of cells it can handle. The second is the max current. Thus, an 18.61 will handle 18 cells at up to 61 continuous amps. One thing to keep in mind is that brushless motors typically (according to the spec sheets) draw less current with higher voltage. Thus, adding cells to your car does not necessarily mean the esc needs to handle more current (and often it means less).

To the guy who had the car meltdown. That sounds just terrible, but it's too bad you smashed your car, because I'll bet they would have replaced the motor/esc for free if not the chassis. I really doubt they'd do that now.

[Mr. Constructor]

To spenzalii

As for the 12 cells, the C40 series from Hacker is designed specially for the use of 6 cells (it is able to handle up to 8 cells WITH the right gaering, NO high end speed Cars !!)

The Lehner Basic Line is almost the same, because there are many si´milarities in the constructions of the Windings and the armature.

The only ones that can handle easily up to 12 cells are the hacker B 40 and 50 series, but as for the very high RPM (on low Wind BL´s) you should keep an eye on the upper end that should not exceed 75 000 RPM (at all, no matter how many cells) because going beyond this line, makes the Magnets go loosen up in some time, and the heat is not transported to the outside housing soo well any more.

The Lehner 16er and above series can also handle 12 cells.
(some go up to 32 cells!!)

but as for the use in a car all motors with rpm/ Volt readings from 3500 (like a mild 15 T) to 6000 RPM /Volt (like a crazy 5-6T) always
on 6 cells !!
Because these motors are producing almost the same RPM under load than under no load !!

To andy497

in my offroad cars (some 8th and bigger) where the really power is, I solder the 3 pole wires directly to the motor, they will not break any soldering, because they´re fixed in the car, they cannot swing around, so the mass movement is the same than the car, not against the car (causing the solder pins to come unsoldered)

It´s alittle more work but it´s the safest way (other way could be that the shrincking is a little put away during heavy jumps and then short circuit all poles from the motor, the motor will be burning all winds!! immediately.

to BJMFH:

Just write a letter to Hacker germany directly and let them now what has happened, as you do not have the car or anything left, the best thing they can do, is to get price off the next order (it´s a try, they´re very friendly, I ordered a special Motor (directly at the factory) and I was told that it is the first time they sell this kind of winds but the Motor has to be produced for me but they will send it to me to the end of this week !! (that´s service!!!)

To fReShJiVe

What´s the street price of this car in your county (i knew that you´re not living in the EU or the states but I´ve forgotten where it was (singapore ??) in USD ?? (maybe you could send me the scanned manual and pricelist??)
Thanks for the help,this car really is a very special one (with the 2 speed tranny AAAAhhhhh, that´s it !!

see ya !!

[RCmaniac324]

Originally posted by spenzalii
5 dollar question for you guys. How many cells is the Lehner Basic 5300 rated for? If it will take 12 cells, great; I'll be able to move the motor from one car to the next. If not, will the B50 series motor fit in the XXX-S or a RC10L03? I know it will handle 6-8, which is perfect for the Losi, but the AE speed rig I want to build I'm not so sure of the best way to set it up (I want something that can handle 12 cells and as much gearing as possible to layeth the smacketh down on some modded nitro's around the way)

I second that. I saw on Fine Design that it was rated for 6-8 cells...is this accurate??? I am wondering b/c I am wanting to make a batt pack of the max # of cells for insane, high geared speed runs in my truck. :D :p

PS-Here's a pic of why my truck is temporarily out of comission...oh the raw power!!!:D :p :cool: :

[yf22k]

Same here...i just got a schulze 18.61 and a lehner 5300 motor...I'm wondering if i can run it with 12 cells safely...Only problem is i'd need a receiver battery. My receiver only takes up to 8.4 v...right now i have leads running from teh battery wires on my schulze to the receiver for power. Geez this schulze is great. I wish i got it with my first brushless instead of the lehner warrior... with the schulze there's no BEC but you can hit full throttle from a standstill and peel out heh. :)

[Soya]

Yep, Shulze is awesome:)

[Prinler]

Alright I just recived my brushless.... Im not impressed. Acually im very disapointed. The warrior controler is so ***.... half the time it wont even go. and the Hacker one doesnt even seem to work on arival.. Any ideas?

[yf22k]

can you be a little more specific. what's wrong with your warrior? i haven't had any problems with mine and i think its fine.

[Prinler]

i will get back to you

[Prinler]

if i want to run a 4 cell pack... do i have to remove a wire or something? tell he how to disable the bec on a hacker sport esc

[RCmaniac324]

Most BL controllers aren't made for four cells as far as I know, at least six is usually needed.....this could be your problem, b/c I know most controllers cut the power to the motor once pack voltage drops below 5.4V, and this is always gonna be happening with a 4 cell pack, which is at most 5.2 freshly peaked....try a 6 cell and see if you are still dissapointed. :)

[Prinler]

no im running 12 cells... but for the BEC what do i do? I want to run a pack of 4 cells AA cells for my bec! i heard that it makes it run over all better. and is a must for high torque servos

[RCmaniac324]

Oh, sorry. Uhh......I don't know how on the Hacker, but on the lehner you remove the black jumper near the red programming jumper....Maybe someone else can help you with the hacker. That's about all I can do to help. Hope you figure it out, b/c these systems are nothing to be dissapointed at when working right, trust me. :) :p

[Prinler]

I was going to buy 2 motors one controler. put gold conectors on everything. Well im glad i got 2 controlers and 2 motors. the Hacker Sport doesnt seem to work. it did for a min. i did one rev... put it in my truck. put small screws to mount it so i know its not that, then i went to kind of set it up and doent move beep nothing. I cant get it to move at all.. i even had my buddy look it over. he said i hooked it up perfectly.. Thanks for the info on the bec on the lehner. sould work good for me

[BLK]

Originally posted by Prinler
I was going to buy 2 motors one controler. put gold conectors on everything. Well im glad i got 2 controlers and 2 motors. the Hacker Sport doesnt seem to work. it did for a min. i did one rev... put it in my truck. put small screws to mount it so i know its not that, then i went to kind of set it up and doent move beep nothing. I cant get it to move at all.. i even had my buddy look it over. he said i hooked it up perfectly.. Thanks for the info on the bec on the lehner. sould work good for me

Prinler,
Sometimes the same thing would happen to me. Hook up the battery and boom...nothing there. The steering worked fine, so I know there was power somewhere, but no throttle response. This happened several times to me and this is what I did, which seemed to work.

Turn everything off. Disconnect the battery (I run with BEC so I just disconnected the bat pack...hope its not hard wired, i use deans). Then start all over. Reconnect the battery. Turn on your radio, turn on the car and listen for the beep. Make sure not to touch anything on your radio for at least 5 seconds (per the manual); don't touch the throttle, the steering, nothing. If you hear the beep and not touch anything for the 5 seconds, you should be good to go.

The manual says not to touch anything for the first few seconds after your car is turned on. You should hear a beep as you flip the switch. If you don't hear this, disconnect and reconnect the battery and try again. If you still don't hear it... not sure what to tell you. Like I said before, this happened to me several times and after disconnecting and reconnecting everything, and not touching ANYTHING after i turn on the car, the car worked fine.

Hope this works!
BK

[BLK]

Well, today was the day...I got the Lehner 5300/schultze 18.61 combo in the mail today. Everything is in German so I don't know what the instructions say.

Everything seems self explainatory so I don't think installation will be a problem. Of course the wires on the motor are all black, so no way to know which wire goes where. The gold connectors are a nice touch, but how do you solder the wires to them? One set, on the motor, just have an empty cavitiy? Does this mean I fill it with solder and poke the wire in?

Anything special that I need for the Schultze? I have seen some people use tape on it, is that a neccessity? Motor looks nice, although it is scratched up a bit. I also don't think it is in as nice of a "can" as the hacker, but we'll see how it performs soon, I hope.

I also wish that it had a flat spot for the pinion gear set screw. I read that someone on the this board used it without a flat spot, but I guess I'll give the 'ol dremel a try with it and see.

BK

[k_sw31]

BLK- Dont worry, with the three motor wires it doesn't really matter where they go, as long as they are plugged in ;)

Also, grinding a flat spot is pretty easy, just get the grinding cone on your dremel and you're set :)

Prinler- All I can tell you is good luck getting everything working.

PS, what I did with the connecters is first tinned the inside of them, then tinned the wires, stuck the wires in with some flux, then heated it up. Worked really well, had a good solid bond :)

[BLK]

Originally posted by k_sw31
BLK- Dont worry, with the three motor wires it doesn't really matter where they go, as long as they are plugged in ;)

Also, grinding a flat spot is pretty easy, just get the grinding cone on your dremel and you're set :)

Prinler- All I can tell you is good luck getting everything working.

PS, what I did with the connecters is first tinned the inside of them, then tinned the wires, stuck the wires in with some flux, then heated it up. Worked really well, had a good solid bond :)

k_sw31,

Thats what I wanted to hear! Thanks man, you answered all my concerns. Now only left to do is set it all up in my tc3!!! Thanks again!:D :D

BLK

[andy497]

To BLK: Yah I had the same idea with the non-flat shaft on the lehner. It actually worked ok for a while, but I ended up grinding a flat spot just in case. No problem for the dremel.

As far as setting up your schulze, make sure you have all the dip switches set correctly. I think I found a manual on their website. I can dig up the address if you need it. The settings are important for it to know if you have a helicopter, plane, boat, etc. If it's set up for car, you don't have to do any work to set the travel. Just plug in a battery and it auto-detects everything. Very slick. I also haven't played much with the two switches that determine timing, they are for standard rc car right now. They determine what rpm/throttle settings get peak power/efficiency from what I've gathered. Standard car is second to softest timing if I recall, efficiency more towards mild throttle. This actually works very well on my track, since I almost never am able to use full throttle. About 40% throttle or so will clear all but the nastiest doubles. Of course, your folks' on-road usage may differ.

[Prinler]

Thats not true. It does matter where the wires go.... JUST MAKE SURE THE CENTER ONE ON THE MOTOR IS CONECTED TO THE CENTER ONE ON THE ESC. you will be fine. If your running it and its going backwards? then switch the outside ones :)

[OptimaMan]

Originally posted by jkoppk
OptimaMan!!!!!!!!!!!!!
...and when I called to cancel the backordered motor the bastard charged me a $32 restocking fee for a motor he dosen't even have in stock.Now how the hell is that possible or legal?If you don't believe me about Fuller's ask Chris he knows him and has dealt with him.I just don't want to see you ruin that $270 speed control so I hope you and any others thinking of using the C40 with more than 6-7 cells read this.

Well, after reading this post, I decided to cancel my backordered C40 6 turn and cancel the Hacker Master sport ESC and plugs. He hadn't shipped them yet... but he's already charged my credit card. And now, if he doesn't refund it, I'll make sure I throw in a BIG stink with the credit card company.

BTW, jkoppk, have you tried to argue the restocking fee with the credit card company? I didn't see anywhere in his web page regarding restocking fees... or did I just read to quickly?

I'm going to go to Chris at Fine Design and maybe get the B50 motor instead. I guess I don't need the Hacker controller when my Schulze 12.97 is working just fine...

Any comparisons between the B50 8 turn with the Lehner 5300 out there?

-Young

[fReShJiVe]

mr.constructor - manual and pricelist are in Japanese.....i dont even understand it...i dont have a scanner(ok i have one but it's not hooked up to the computer) so if u want it i'll take pics of it page by page...let me know...and if you want it gimme your email add also

[BLK]

Prinler & Andy, thanks for the replies and for the help! I can'twait to get this stuff properly setup. I hope it all works well together!

FB

[Mr. Constructor]

To Prinler

As these Motors are 3 polw switching frequency motors, the poles are equal, so the connection is equal too, but as you stated, it´s a good Idea to get the middle ones togehter as it might be easier to switch the outer wires in the car.

To fReShJiVe

Thanks a lot with your help, but this is too much work, where did you order this car and how much was it (maybe I can get some infos on this dealer ??)
Or is there any English homepage from alexracing??
Thanks for your help !!
(this car is a must have for a tech freak!!)

To andy497

If you´re not really shure what to do, leave it as it is, this ESC really has some very Good programms, but for a Car you don´t need them, the setting you have is the best to choose from !!
Have fun with htis great ESC !!

To BLK (and other flat spot grinders)

Be CAREFUL, the small metall parts could get into the armature and the can of the Motor or in the Bearings.
To prevent this :
stuck the motor in a plastik bag or balloon (the shaft should point to the inside and the wires should fall out of the sack.
you could now stuck the shaft through the plastik (the hole is very close to the diameter) and to be shure that no debris will get in, tape around the shaft and close the other end, now you can easily file down the flat spot with a dremel.
remove the plastik by turning it from inside out (beginning at the wire end) so the debris will stay inside the plastik bag and could be thrown away.(your beraings will thank you this method !!)

To OptimaMan

the B 50 has a lot more torque due to the bigger (longer can) motor and you could choose of various winds, (take the B 50 s for Cars, the other versions are for 8th or bigger scale and will weight too much 250 gr and up !!)
The Hacker is a really good Motor, if you have the time to wait, I will provide you with the Datas (because mine is arriving at the weekend)

See ya all

(BL IS really a good thing to race, isn´t it ?? :D

[JonDax]

Mr. Constructor,

Does the motor really need to have a flat spot ground on the shaft, or can I get away with not having one?

[Popop]

I never run a boat with more than 12cells without a flat spot on the motor shaft !! The same for my cars ! (even if they can't be carried by the seine river !)

I remember have slightly lathed a Plettenberg can with a un-tightened pinion gear ... It slips against the Plett can and lathed it !

Concerning the motor protection, you also can use some stretchable paper ... and aspire the chips that stay on it with a vacuum cleaner ...

[fReShJiVe]

mr.constructor - u can get it from www.rainbowten.co.jp kit price at 34800yen(US$295) and 37800yen(US$321) for the R2....by the way the R2 2 speed gearing is only available for stock motors(5.5-6.5) not sure if they will produce any more gearing options....let me know if u gonna buy it...if you looking for a used one...i have the purple one with all the hopups posted on this thread for sale :D.... only use it once for 5 batt packs :) so it's pratically new.....sorry guy for turning this into a for sale thread :D

[Prinler]

The Car Sport is really messy. I cant get any consistancy with it. I finally got it to go. I have to press reverse to make it got forwards. just need to revers the wires right? well i dont know how to set up the timming. I do what it says and it doesnt beep like its suposed to and stuffs. Any Ideas? anyone own a khacker master sport? Thanks!


Also i have yet to be able to flip my truck... its hella fast, just doesnt have the beginning punch like the titans.. I had no problem getting those babies to do it. alittle graphite powder inside to loosten everything up and they hauled for me.

peace

[BLK]

Originally posted by Prinler
The Car Sport is really messy. I cant get any consistancy with it. I finally got it to go. I have to press reverse to make it got forwards. just need to revers the wires right? well i dont know how to set up the timming. I do what it says and it doesnt beep like its suposed to and stuffs. Any Ideas? anyone own a khacker master sport? Thanks!


Also i have yet to be able to flip my truck... its hella fast, just doesnt have the beginning punch like the titans.. I had no problem getting those babies to do it. alittle graphite powder inside to loosten everything up and they hauled for me.

peace

Prinler,
Did you see my post on the page before this one? Give that stuff a try and see what happens. Also, as far as hitting reverse and going backwards, it may just be a radio setting; i.e. reverse the throttle/brake setting on the radio and that could fix it. I wouldn't reverse the wires, since they are actually color coded and may throw you off later.

Again, my hacker car master esc is very sensitive and tempermental. If I even think of touching my radio right away after connecting the battery and fliping the switch, the esc will not go anywhere. I am betting that is your problem too. Disconnect the battery. Leave it unplgged for a bit (20 seconds or so). Reconnect. Turn on the radio and place it on the bench or floor; somewhere where you won't be tempted to touch it ;-P Turn on the car. Hear the beep and wait a bit (10 seconds), then give it a try. That does the trick for me everytime. Now if I can just figure out how to adjust the brakes input on my radio, I'll be set like a turbo vette!

Does the thing still not beep after you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

BLK

[Prinler]

Alright.... I got that np... the reson i am going to switch the wires.... when i turn the reverse switch on my radio... the truck motor goes.... i try to ajust my trim but i dont have enuff. so i have to either redo it or someting. I dunno..... some times when i turn it on and accidently touch it i head beep codes... thats thre hard part.

[yf22k]

I'm going to post one of my brushless setups for sale/trade in the buy/sell/trade forum.

[Mr. Constructor]

To JonDax

As Popop mentioned (greetings to you, have the pics arrived?)
the flat spot on the motor will get the pinion a lot better grip and the damage of Motorbearing is prevented.
when you take care (watch some steps deeper to get a good solution description) with the dremel it´s no proble´m, I´ve done this on all my BL systems.

To fReShJiVe

thanks a lot, because I really want this car maybe I get your´s
(that´s no hope making speech !!) I´m building a BL 8th MT so my money is a little stressed at the moment but I will post a reply if anything goes in that direction.

To Prinler

Have you got the www adress of a server where I can download the manual? (I will translate it for you if it is not too long)
or have you got the manual scanned?
The Hacker is a very good esc but you might understand it´s inner software solution to get it dialed in to your needs.

see ya

[yf22k]

here's the link: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=111697

[fReShJiVe]

anyone knows any store in the US or anywhere else that carry Lehner products and will ship overseas??i'm looking to get another esc

[Mr. Constructor]

To fReShJiVe:

Maybe you should take a look on www.bk-electronics.de, they are carrying the lehner products (that is the manufacturer directly) and they´re having a English HP too (If I am not totally wrong - I will test it . . . . .yes it´s all there, go to Motors and Controllers, because they do manufacture any kind of electronic (for education and business mostly))
They should ship overseas too.
Ask them, they´re very helpful !

greetings from Germany !!

[Prinler]

Mr.constructor

What would make a ESC stop working? ever hear of a lehner warrior that just stoped working? I didnt do anything wrong i dont think... i mean i used it... then took it out layed it on a towel.... (not wet or anything). Woke up early... and it doesnt work..... I dont get it

[JonDax]

I got my 5300 basic motor and 58ce esc last night, and after a lot of fitting and soldering I was up and running! Wow! So fast now, I had to tune down my throttle on my radio to make it not such a hard launch. Fun, fun!

This morning though, when I went to run for a few minutes, the car ran just fine, then glitched for a second, and then took off full throttle with no control! Luckily the car flipped over, but then it was just stuck on full until I turned the radio off and back on. Then it seemed dead until I switched the battery. A newly charged battery seemed to work just fine, and then I tried the other batt again and it was fine. Anyone else ever experience anything like this? I'm worried now that my car is going to just take off at any second.

I'm using the built in BEC with a KO digital FM reciever and servo. The ESC and motor seemed hot, but not that hot. How do I tell if I'm over gearing this motor? I'm geared like it would be for a 10T double motor, that should be ok?
Thanks for any input!
--JD

[Prinler]

Im not very happy with the whole brushless thing. the set up and everything could use some improvments... like novak has done for there ESC's.... i hope one day they are as controled and EZ to set up.... i mean something perfect. perfect. perfect :) like the gt7... Smooth as silk and powerfull as all hell!

am i asking for to much for $700? shesh

[Mr. Constructor]

To Prinler:

Maybe the disconnecting of the battery caused a Software crash, follow the instruction to reprogramm the ESC to your radio (are you using a Digital PCM radio, these ofter do some interferences with the controllers on modern ESC´s) ??

After having it reprogrammed, leave the red switch where it is !!
(maybe you should try to disconnect or connect the BEC, I´ve never had any problems with BEC´s in BL ESC´s, I´m now running 5 ESC´s and everything is OK so far (several types of ESC and Motors too)

maybe you can show me a pic of your esc in not built in satus and built in status (are you switching the esc between cars ??
(maybe the pins got loosen up in the connector to the receiver ??

describe me your whole setup, motor, car gearing, cells receiver, radio servos, etc maybe we´ll find the problem !!

To JonDax

Are you really using a Digital (means PCM modulation) receiver??
these babes are the S*** of the world, huge money and slow response, but some fail safe system, Ok bad solution, most people prefer the normal FM receiver types.

if you gear this motor a little lower (from 9:1 to 10:1 f.e.) the used Amps under accleration are not this High anymore and the internal circuit does not switch the power of the receiver off
(the full amp is used for accleration, the BEC has no constantly Voltage, and was shut down, the worst thing,, it will not turn automatically on until you switch it off and then on again, but thats a tech problem due to the electronic used in most ESC (but with normal ESC you will not reach this point !!)

Hopefully everything is functioning, search for some bad solders on all connections (esp. if cells are soldered together) these small solder points are forgotten mostly.

see ya

[JonDax]

Thanks for the reply, Mr. Constructor.

I do have an FM radio, no PCM. The radio/reciever is supposedly hi speed and uses a digital servo. --KO propo Mars R Would using a regular FM reciever and servo help any? I'm pretty sure all my solder joints are ok. I guess a reciever pack would help, but then I guess I should've gotten the 18.61.:rolleyes:


Now a dumb question: how do I determine gear ratio on my motor? (I've always just used the manual recommendation)

The guy at Fine Design said that radio trims could cause this to happen when the battery dumps and falls below the minimum current? I did dial my throttle setting back 25% to make it have more gentle acceleration, could that cause problems when the esc tries to shutdown from not enough volts? I'm afraid to just 'test', as I was very lucky last time my car didn't go full speed into the wall!

[Popop]

To Mr Constructor : Yes, I received your pics just fine and hope to refresh the B/L Cars setups Showtime page soonly : See there at http://rcsaga.com/bl ...

The fact is I haven't so much time these weeks to do that ... The Gancia and E-ven things take quite all the time left by my hard working days ...

See E-ven at a glance :
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/rcsaga/Cars\Even\03%2001/quick300.jpg

More pics this w-e (I hope)

[Prinler]

I am running the Futaba Magnum sport t2ph and i have tried 2 different futaba recivers.... i run 75 mhz fm. even tried this set up in my working maxx electronics... it doesnt beep..... make my servo move when you plug it in... i have removed the BEC and put it back on... nothing. Set up is a loss.. tryied everything i can think of......
70/18 warrior and the 5300 :)

[RadicalRustler]

I know this doen't belong here, but would any esc be able to take 2 4200's? light load, like on an airplane. Cause i am planning (not making just planning) a lancaster bomber (wwII plane) and it uses 4 motors. It would be carrying a couple water baloons in the mid section (mini baloons) with those opening doors.

[andy497]

to JonMax:

I'm not sure what your setup/car is, but I think your gearing might be hurting you. I have an 18.61 and 5300, and when it overheats, it just beeps and cuts power to the throttle till it cools again. Under proper gearing this should never happen though.

Anyway, I run a xxx-4, and the folks at my track usually run stock spur (92 tooth I believe) and around 18 tooth pinion with 10 turn doubles. For reference, I'm running a 14 tooth pinion with this spur, so I would guess that would be around 6t double or so equivalent. I had tried up to a 17 tooth, but 14 gives much more snap and still has faster top end than anything brushed. Also, the higher pinions would cause overheating after a few minutes. I would guess this is what is happening.

If you have a pinion set, start with the smallest one you've got and work your way up until it starts acting funny.

[fReShJiVe]

Originally posted by Mr. Constructor
To fReShJiVe:

Maybe you should take a look on www.bk-electronics.de, they are carrying the lehner products (that is the manufacturer directly) and they´re having a English HP too (If I am not totally wrong - I will test it . . . . .yes it´s all there, go to Motors and Controllers, because they do manufacture any kind of electronic (for education and business mostly))
They should ship overseas too.
Ask them, they´re very helpful !

greetings from Germany !!

The problem is the Lehner dealer locally is also a dealer for schulze....and they are pushing more of schulze esc and lehner motor....so they dont stock lehner esc....i just want to get a cheap esc for a backup one just in case my 58ce fails(which it's already is and sent back to Germany for repair)...i told the dealer i want to get a 7018/3 and they keep telling me dont waste my time and money on that esc....and told me to get another spare schulze which i wouldnt want to due to price differences...
rumrunner and finedesign has replied to not wanting to ship to me due to a dealer which i have locally

[JonDax]

14t pinion sounds like a good idea. I'm going to try and get one tonight. Last night I ran thru a whole pack with no problems. Near the end right after the batteries started to dump, the car just stopped and wouldn't go anymore. I could still steer though. A couple of hours later I ran again, this time with my new Promatch 3300HVs, and after about 10min it stopped, but this time I think from going into heat protect. It started to melt the shrinkwrap off!

The guy at Finedesign told me to make my wires about 2-3", so my esc sits along the spur gear above and behind the motor on my xxx4. I'm going to make some 5-6" wires tonight and put the esc over on the battery side, maybe that will help it stay cooler? Hope I don't get glitching though. Not much room under the xxx4 body.

I also changed the profile to the lowest one after I overheated and was able to run without the body with no problems for another 20min on the rest of that battery. The esc was pretty hot, but not cooking! and the motor was just warm. A 4t lower gear should make a good difference. I may cut a hole in the body to help cooling--maybe even an airscoop! 50amps is a lot of current, no? The BEC worked perfectly the whole time, steering was nice and quick. I had good, smooth throttle response, and reverse worked well except for being a bit touchy.

[edit because before I had said the shulze doesn't have profile memory and it does, and I said it was hard to fit in my xxx4--I made longer jumper wires and put it on top of the battery--no proplem. Excellent setup! 58ce and 5300:D
--JD

[Prinler]

ITs prolly because you dont have a BEC pack. Servos can draw more powa so it can make it over heat. get a 6v pack too

[Soya v1.1]

After some slight reassembly, I'm Baaaaaaaaack!!!:D

[Prinler]

v1.1 thats great! lol

[JonDax]

Yeah, I was thinking the servo might have something to do with the extra heat. I guess I shoulda got the 18.61. I am liking how much lighter my car is now though.

[Prinler]

just get a pack... its all gud... only like $11 on rbay

[Prinler]

Alright time for my problems :)

let my buddy put my brand new speed gem 13t pro motor in his pro 2... i put my 5300 lehner on the HACKER sport esc... on a gp3300 pack...

he out ran me. by like 5 mins. ***!
he had a 2200 NiMH pack.
Any ideas?

[Popop]

To Radrustler, prefer airplane E-zone forums ...
Linked from rcsaga.com

[gmbltc]

Popop,
Thanks for posting my TC3 pics in rcsaga.com. Great site you have there. Keep up the great work!!

[Mr. Constructor]

To fReShJiVe:

Maybe you should try to ask them for a dealer in Japan, to get your products there (might be cheaper than direktly from Germany)
You could also try to kontakt kontronik and ask for the beat esc, they´re similar to the schulze but have more power, but i don´t know the prices !!
go to www.kontronik.com then choose your language.
Hope this works, maybe you could contact Staufenbiel Modell Cars
at www.modellhobby.de or shall i give them the e mail adress of you, they will ship overseas, I just bought a lehner there (its in Hamburg where I came from) for about 115 USD !! (the 7018/3)
but i don´t know what the charges are for the mail !!

To RadicalRustler

Any ESC could handle 2 BL Motors !!
(they must be the same housing and winding etc. off course) but the ESC will handle them until you do not exceed the Amps too much !!
Some people at my racetrack are racing a 8th HPI Proceed with 2 BL and 12 cells, it´s no problem !!

To JonDax

the wire length between the akku and the esc is important, get it as short as possible, because there are the Interferences in the DC Current, as it is transferred to 3 pole AC these interferences are not this big any more, to get this thing too, twist the 3 wires around each other, so the electromagnetic flux in the shield of the wire eliminates each other.
(this is the best thing to do in any case and it will cost no money !!)

To Prinler:

Get the Manual for the Hacker Sport, maybe you selected the smallest Amp setting.
At this esc you could set the Amp rate (like the Novak current limiter or equal) maybe your current limiter (the esc has 2 of them) is set to 20 Amps, this will make your car slow down that much !!
I´m looking for the Manual too, maybe I ´ll find a translated version (in english)

see ya !!

[Mr. Constructor]

To Popop:

I´ll have a 8th truck right soon, the tech datas:

2.4 kg w/ batterys

12 cells

Humm Vee Urban Body (looks great)

Hacker B 50 L Motor (up to 1000 W!!)

Lehner 7018/3 ESC

with direct connection to the spiral cut bevel gear at the back

the first test are very excellent, maybe I ´ll get the CVDs soon ,then I´ll go out and test it finally !!

see ya
(I´m posting pics soon )

[Prinler]

oh wait dont get me wrong.. he wasnt winning :) i was flying past him... but the run time... thats my consern....


with 12 cells on my Tc... the belt strip alot. i need to tightten them down a bit i think. Its amazing tho. Solid rubber tires... very good glue job... they still want to come off the rims :) has to be doing 50+ at 1/2 throtle... i cant gas it because it strips and because of the placement of the 2nd pack it tries to wonder off to one side. making it very hard to make run in a straight line.

Hooked up the 5300 to my T3.... 12 cells the thing was amazing as well. 45+ again. i couldnt belive the t3 was going so fast. In the dirt i was able to pop a few wheelies..... peels out like it was on oil. got rocks shot at me at high rates of speed. where in the manuel did it say i should ware safty glass's :P oh well it lasted about 6 min then my CVD broke. not happy but one for the record books :)

Talked to Chris.... he didnt sound happy at all. Told him my warrior ESC wasnt working. He wanted it just like i had it. didnt want me to touch it, so he could look at where i went wrong. when i told him i already tore it down... he seemed agitated :( poor me.

Sorry so long, its 3 am and im tired :)
Peace :)

[Popop]

Large (1:8) On-road B/L experiments interest me now ... I'll find great to run a 1:8 pan car for less ! By this way, keep me informed about this special 4WD Proceed Xperiment !

Concerning your truck to come, pics welcomed too !
You seem to build it lighter and lighter (trucks wheels and realistic body sucks weight) ... Interesting project !

[RCmaniac324]

Originally posted by Mr. Constructor
To RadicalRustler

Any ESC could handle 2 BL Motors !!
(they must be the same housing and winding etc. off course) but the ESC will handle them until you do not exceed the Amps too much !!
Some people at my racetrack are racing a 8th HPI Proceed with 2 BL and 12 cells, it´s no problem !!

To clarify 4 you radical rustler, I think he means if you put two 65 amp motors on a 100 amp esc, you will frequently overheat, due to the added peak amperage being 130 amps....in this case, get at least a 140 amp controler to be safe...........so for your choice of motor, take the peak amperage of one, multiply it my two, then add at least ten for a safety of 10 amps incase of a short surge during acelleration/braking........and the resulting number should be how many amps your controller can handle, and it should work fine.:)

Mr. Constructor- Next time you are at your track, please try to get pics of one of these 2 BL, 12 cell Proceeds!!! I was thinking about that last night, as in if it could be done, and I would just love to see pics of it done!!! I definately don't have the $$$ for it right now, I was just curious to see it done.:) :p Also, about how fast would you say it goes???as fast or faster than the nitro version???Thanx.

[fReShJiVe]

Originally posted by Mr. Constructor
To fReShJiVe:

Maybe you should try to ask them for a dealer in Japan, to get your products there (might be cheaper than direktly from Germany)
You could also try to kontakt kontronik and ask for the beat esc, they´re similar to the schulze but have more power, but i don´t know the prices !!
go to www.kontronik.com then choose your language.
Hope this works, maybe you could contact Staufenbiel Modell Cars
at www.modellhobby.de or shall i give them the e mail adress of you, they will ship overseas, I just bought a lehner there (its in Hamburg where I came from) for about 115 USD !! (the 7018/3)
but i don´t know what the charges are for the mail !!


see ya !!

mr.constructor - yes please do give them my email add ...... tell them to give me a quote for 7018/3 shipped to Singapore

home :- snapracing2001@yahoo.com
work :- Yusran_Yahya@spe.sony.com

I really appreciate all your help

cheers
Yan

[JonDax]

I got a 13T pinion for my xxx4 with 5300/58ce, and ran in the soft setting and had no problems with 30min of running. I also made longer jumpers so now I have the esc over the batteries and it has more room to breathe there, so that helps. The esc was hot, but not any hotter than my regular esc. The motor was very warm, but much cooler than my 10T double was. Overall, it was still faster than my 10T, and much smoother now with the lower gearing and soft setting. The cool thing is is that the motor should always be this fast. I'm going to experiment with the other settings today, hopefully I won't break any parts--this thing flies!:)

I'd really like to see if there is anyway to convert and Ofna 9.5 to BL. I was thinking this spring I would like to try getting into nitro, but now I'm not so sure! A BL HPI Savage might be fun too! :D
--JD