Brushless Motor Forum v2.0

[yf22k]

You need to check your jumper settings. The first jumper should be set to 1 and if you want reverse the third jumper should also be at 1

[OptimaMan]

ANDY 497:

You are absolutely correct regarding what you said. True, the Hacker B50 6 turn has more RPM, but it definitely took longer for it to spoooooool up. Even with gearing that would make for equal speeds, the Lehner 5300 was better for that particular track. Faster acceleration but equal top speed. I think it might have something to do with rotor mass more than motor mass. In addition, I don't think the Hacker B50 6 turn was running really efficient - I suspect that the B50 series motors are more ideal for more powerful applications - such as 12 cells, 1/8 scale. Perhaps that's why Hacker came out with the C40 size for 1/10 scale buggies - the motor operates at a more efficient range for that power application.

This is what I am suspecting - both motors probably have over 80 percent efficiency.... but at 50+ amp draw for the Hacker and 30 amp draw for the Lehner. So, I'm guessing the "powerband" for the Lehner 5300 is more suited for 6 cell touring cars. However, if you slap on 12 cells and put them on an emaxx, the Hacker B50 will probably smoke the lehner (The Lehner would blow up with 12 cells anyway).

This info is speculation... but through real experience, I think this is a pretty good guess.

Even if you read the information about those motors, these motors are capable of waaay more power than our batteries can give out at 7.2 volts so it stands to reason that having a motor that is bigger is not necesarily better - in fact, a smaller lighter motor that will run more efficiently at that voltage will be faster.

SO, for absolute crazy speed runs with many cells and Emaxxes, go with a B50, for standard 6 cell racing (touring, 1/10 off road, etc.) go with a Lehner Basic 5300. I believe it is more efficient at lower amp draws than the Hacker motor.

With regards to the new Basic XL, they even say it is for higher power applications (many cells). So, I'm willing to bet for 6 cell racing, their standard basic 5300 is better than the Basic XL 5000.

[RadicalRustler]

Yeah, I think they made the xl for the emaxxes, since they run on 12 cells

[RadicalRustler]

Said by rumrunnerhobbies
Now Taking Advance Orders... Estimated ship date March 10th.
Cool. its release is on my birthday!

[BLK]

Originally posted by yf22k
You need to check your jumper settings. The first jumper should be set to 1 and if you want reverse the third jumper should also be at 1

Thanks, I'll give it a try. Right now, only number 3 is set to 1. Hopefully this will work. I'll give it a try tonight after work. Thanks again!

BK

[yf22k]

Originally posted by BLK
Thanks, I'll give it a try. Right now, only number 3 is set to 1. Hopefully this will work. I'll give it a try tonight after work. Thanks again!

BK

Hey no problem...here's the schulze website in english: http://www.schulze-elektronik-gmbh.de/index_uk.htm

you can download the manual for the controller there. It tells you jumper settings for different vehicles and timings.

[BLK]

Holy SCHMOLY, its alive and its FAST! Wow, I am very impressed with the TC3 now! The 5300/1861 is one bad mama jama! Finally got the jumpers right and this thing cooks. I cant believe how well it accelerates and stops on a dime. Very fast. Did I mention that it is fast? I have not had a chance to let it fly at the top end yet, but from what I've seen it will be nice. low to mid range speed is faster than my Rs4 ss nitro thats for sure. Only bad thing was that the front wheel flew off and I lost the pin, while I was doing donuts in the driveway. No spares either, so I'll have to swap a pin with another car. I think I have to try this combo in the XXX-T as I wasn't that impressed with the C40/carmaster sport combo.

Setup is:
FT TC3
5300/Schultze 1861/ rx pack
17 tooth pinion
6 Cell Matched 3300 vis from promatch (charged two weeks ago and has been sitting waiting for me to get my act together; cant wait to peak them to see if I get more punch)

Controller is very smooth and I only get a little slop on initial throttle. Reverse is glitchy and sometimes it goes into reverse, and sometimes it wont. ALways a hesitation though for several seconds before it makes up its mind. I would say it performs a little better than the carmaster sport, but I think the sport is much easier to setup and dial in.

The motor is very smooth and seems much faster than the c40, although I guess I need to try them both in the same car to make sure.

Next up...I'd like to convert my son's E-maxx. Likely I will go with a C50/1861 combo, although I'd love some other engine choices.

BK

[BJMFH]

Hey BLK, throw a 34 tooth pinion gear in your TC3 and see what happens. You won't be disappointed. :D

[BLK]

Originally posted by BJMFH
Hey BLK, throw a 34 tooth pinion gear in your TC3 and see what happens. You won't be disappointed. :D

LOL!!! How does it even fit? I'm not sure what my largest pinion size is, I think maybe 28, I'll have to check. Sounds like fun though! I'll give it a go tonight to see what happens!!:D :D

BLK

[BJMFH]

It is a really tight fit. But if you work with it, it will slide into place. Just run a few packs through the gears and they will mesh together nicely. Even with 6 cells you'll think you're running a nitro car. Good luck and let us know how it goes! :)

[tc3punk]

for another option for the emaxx, the 1930/5-10 are really nice

but I hear that they run pretty hot, so you'd have to run a fan, or just gear it moderatly

but it's got more power than the c50's

gl:)

[yf22k]

does anyone have an idea of how a 1515/6 would run in a touring car? i want something that would push my touring car on 6 cells faster than my basic 5300. thanks

[RadicalRustler]

i e-mailed novak a while back, but never put this info on:

Novak Tech Charlie Suangka
192 watts equates to 36 amps at 6 volts Battery voltage, That about the max most battery packs can supply over any given period. For short burst the system can supply 265 watts ( 13 oz-in @ 26,000 rpm )at 55 amps.

[tc3punk]

Ivan's 1525/7 (http://www.tc3punk.netfirms.com/Ivan.html)

the middle video don't work, cause of lack of hosting options available for free:(

personally, I wouldn't go with anything below a 1525, cause Cliff Lett said it bestit takes 1HP to reach 110mph, but it takes 2HP to reach 130mph

meaning that to get fast speed, you need RPM AND torque
the ammount of torque needed to cut thru air at 60-70mph is crazy

gl:p

[metalry101]

Hey~
I'm new to the forum, and the idea of brushless so I have some questoins. From what I've seen and heard, brushless motors are sealed, so does this mean they're impervious to dirt and water, and the combination of those two, otherwise known as mud? What about the controllers? I have an E-Maxx and a HPI RS4 MT and I run them both thru the mud and snow a lot. I have an MTronics speed control (all MTronics speed controls are completely waterproof) in the MT so it does fine, but the E-Maxx is a pain in the ass because I have to put a shower cap over the chassis to keep the EVX from frying. Anyways, I know the Hacker system would be nuts fast in my Maxx, but I really don't see why I should drop 400+ bones on that. I can buy a complete T-Maxx for that. Are there any other options out there that are as good or close to as good for cheaper? I've read in the E-Maxx forum that the Lehner stuff is good, and much cheaper, and I found a bunch of their stuff on Rum Runner's site, but they have so many different motors and controllers and everything that it's frustrating for someone who doesn't know what they want. I understand what the numbers are, generally, but I don't know which motor and controller would be best for my application. I don't need insane speed, but I do want a lot of power and good run time. Also, I might be getting the hookup w/ a Tamiya Evo II and a Reedy Ti 12 turn for 150 bux. The chassis alone is like 360 on Tower, so that's a helluva deal, so I'll probably buy it. If I do I want it to be fast, but I really don't want to drop 3 billion dollars into the thing. Any suggestions for a sweet brushless setup for that? Any companies names and websites that I can check out would be greatly appreciated, as I really don't know of any quality manufacturers other than Hacker and Lehner.

[tc3punk]

Originally posted by metalry101
Anyways, I know the Hacker system would be nuts fast in my Maxx, but I really don't see why I should drop 400+ bones on that. I can buy a complete T-Maxx for that. Are there any other options out there that are as good or close to as good for cheaper? I've read in the E-Maxx forum that the Lehner stuff is good, and much cheaper, and I found a bunch of their stuff on Rum Runner's site, but they have so many different motors and controllers and everything that it's frustrating for someone who doesn't know what they want.

why would you want a Tmaxx!?!?

right click / save as (http://www.brushless.net/firstrunblE.wmv)

that's a friend of mine's (Occifer's) Emaxx, with a Lehner 18150 controller and 1930/5 controller on 12 cells

that was just a "sample of things to come" he said:D

if you do get a setup like that, you'd have to fully upgrade the drivetrain on your maxx tho:rolleyes:

now if you want brushless for your touringcar, go with a basic series motor or posibly basic XL, and a warrior controller

goodluck:)

[Prinler]

What that crunching noise when you slow down? my max is doing that now. Alot! i know its not the trani, onlything i can think of is the diff. In the video i mean.

[metalry101]

tc3punk~
K, I really don't want to try to find all that stuff again so how much would that motor/controller combination cost? And as for the drivetrain mods, what do you mean? I'm assuming front/rear/center CVDs. I already have the rear CVDs and a spool. Anything for the tranny? Also, would I need to buy the expensive high quality Nimh matched cells? Not that I mind buying them, I probably will some day anyway, but if I really needed to right away or risk frying my current batteries from the amp draw (i really didn't want to use the word current twice in a 4 word span) it would add to the initial cost. Anyways, maybe I'll try to download the movie at school or something, but I have dial up, and 8 megs would take an eternity to download so I can only imagine how cool the movie is at the moment. Well, I need some sleep so I'm outa here

[RadicalRustler]

I have dial up, got hafway through the movie. the turning while having the car upsidedown on full is awsome!
(my stupid 4-tec hasn't come yet!)

[BJMFH]

Hey TC3punk, your buddy needs to learn some throttle control. :D

Seriously though, have him take his Emaxx to a huge parking lot and let that beast run free. That narrow street is far too constrained for his Emaxx. I'm all about the seeing some top speed videos of that monster.

I can't run my brushless TC3 in the street either, there just isn't enough room and I always lose control. Instead of flipping over, my TC3 will either spin out or start to powerslide. I have to wait until the tires heat up and I gather sufficient speed to full throttle it. It's really bad with rubber tires, foams hook up alot better but wear out way too fast for brushless.

[BLK]

All righty then! I threw a 26 pinion/stock spur into my FT TC3 to test it out (as per BJMFH's Suggestion:D ) WOW!! I couldn't believe how fast that thing is at the top end!! I peak charged a matched pack of 3300 Vis's and let this thing fly. Definately much faster than my HPI SS (with two speed tranny mind you). Accelelerates slower than when I had the 17 pinion, but thats to be expected. It was running strong for about 7-8 minutes (I think) then the controller started to shut down. Brought the car back into the garage, and the controller was pretty hot. Not so hot that I couldn't touch it, but hot enough to be uncomfortable. engine was getting pretty hot too.

I assume the controller stared acting up because it was getting overheated, yes? Is there a better placement for it, so that it can get better airflow? I thik I'll cut a whole in the windows a la nitro bodies, to get some more air through there. I have it mounted to the battery bar right now. I know thats not the ideal setup, becuase of the heat it will add to the batt and vice versa (SP?) but really I can see no other solution.

I would guess, that the car was hitting well in to the high thirties mph range, but I have no way to prove or disprove that. Just a guess. I think I'll get a radar gun to find out for sure.

All in all, the 5300 motor is impressive, and I want to throw it into my XXX-T to see how that trcuk handles it. Next in line though is the Maxx Project. Probably going to go with 1930 series or C50, haven't decided yet, and a car master controller. I like the Hacker master sport, better than the Schultze. Seems just as smooth, but much better heat disapation (I think) and easier programability, setup, and reverse mode (IMHO of course).

BK

[BJMFH]

Hey BLK,

Glad to hear that you like your gear ratio! That's half the fun with BL, being able to gear things to the moon.

If you think 26 is fast, just wait till you throw 34 in your FT TC3. I know I'm always talking about 34, but try it and you'll see. I'm about to start a new religion based on the 34 tooth pinion gear.:D

I have the Hacker Master Competition and I can run pack after pack without it shutting down, no matter what gear ratio. The Competition has a heat sink the size of Texas so that definately helps. It does get pretty warm after the 4th battery pack though.

I'm probably going to cut some kind of hole/scoop in my body too. It doesn't need it but, it would be one less thing to worry about.

The 5300 rules, I love it! For the money, it can't be beat. I personally think it is the best motor for touring cars running six cells. I also own a B50 S8; with six cells, the 5300 smokes it. I only use the B50 S8 whenever I'm running more than 8 cells. The B50 is great for speed runs, but other than that, it collects dust.

[k_sw31]

thats the way it should be, the basic should definatly rev high, because of the shorter armature and the b50 should be more torquey because of its longer armature, hence why the basics are a good choice for Tc's and stadium trucks, and the B50s are typically used in bigger applications (more cells, emaxx, etc.) :D

I love my basic too :D

[tc3punk]

metalry101:

the controller is $455 and the motor is $212
but, you could get away with a 18120 controller instead which is only $355...
you'll also want some better batteries..
some Sanyo 3000's would be fine, but if your talking like Duratrax 1500 stick packs, then no, they would most defenintly fry in a maxx

I recomend ballisticbatteries 3000 cells

he already has a FULL SM E, and bought a new 2.5, recently, so then he bought a new E, and left everything stock, except, he put a FULL SM Drivetrain in it (idler, diffs, cvds) just so he can compare different setups to his 2.5...

this is what he said...
Most of my videos are just preliminary. "Setup" videos. When racing season starts, I'll be putting out more videos than wolf4ever!
wolf is known on the maxxtraxx boards for having many 50+ minute Tmaxx and buggy vids;)

Prinler:
I'm not sure what the noise is that your hearing, but I'll send you a pm, with Occifer's AIM sn:)

with that said, now everyone should know that these are just test runs

--------------------

heres' another vid...

I was bored, so made this video to help you understand what cogging is. Setup: 1930/5 and 18150, Gearing: stock (18/66), Cells: 1 nearly dead RC2400 matched pack. Right click and save as, approx 1:15 long, and 5mb or so.
Let me know what you think

By the way, the cogging was on purpose.

Cogging Video (http://brushless.net/cogging.wmv)

--------------------

and I might have already posted this but meh...

Eh, it was about 2am, decided to make a small vid. A basically stock Stampede running an al. idler, steel yolks, sealed tranny filled with grease, RPM bearing carriers, and the "shaft re-inforcement" mods. The brushless is a 1930/5 with a 18150 controller, running stock gearing. The battery is a BallisticBattery RC2400 8-cell side x side pack. You be the judge.

BL pede vid (http://www.brushless.net/old/blpedemisc.wmv)

[RCmaniac324]

I second that (k_sw31's post, that is). :D :p

[chasmo]

I want a motor for my t3 that will be able to keep up with my gt with a mt12 in it.

Should I go with a B50 S6, basic 5300 or any other motor

[yf22k]

i have a 5300. Its a very good motor. I like it a lot but i think i'm going to go with a 1520/6 for my next motor in a 4wd touring car

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by chasmo
I want a motor for my t3 that will be able to keep up with my gt with a mt12 in it.

Should I go with a B50 S6, basic 5300 or any other motor

Well, with my basic 5300, it roasts my ft gt with an OS CV-X, but an mt12 will have tons more power. Take a look at the new basic XL 5000, it wont have as many rpms on 6 cells, but it gives you the option of running 10-12 cells, giving you gobs upon gobs of power. Call up Chris at finedesign rc, he will set you up with just what you are looking for...

[Prinler]

I will give my 2 cents. I am hearing alot of people who are pondering theyre next purchase or there first, either one, after everything i read and watch, Lehner has most companies beat hands down for quality. the 18 series ESC are expensive. There is a reson for it. good things do not come cheep. I did purchase the Hacker setup and i have been pleased but i will put it in my friends words as he was laughing at me " its only a bit faster then stock and you payed $400" i did feel stupid. After some ajustments and rewiring. IE took about 8 inch's ( yes eight ) off the amount of wire from the controler to the motor. The C50 Screams. Looking back at what i could have done better.
MICRO 18 Series Controllers
1930/5 motor draws over 150 amps so i would get a controler that will handle the peak amps. 18150 BEC is the best one to get for this porpose. $455 but still :) Anyrate now that the beer is setting in...... Lehner is really good and inch for inch they have more power then most of the others.

[k_sw31]

Yeah, prinler, that was probably your problem, I thought it was common knowledge that the motor wires need to be around 4 inches...:rolleyes: ;)

[Prinler]

Yeah thanks for the slam. LOL
I know it was but i just couldnt fit the esc in the place i wanted. Oh well we all learn.

[k_sw31]

Geez I dont think I can even scronge up 8 inches of wire :p

[Prinler]

I got some you can have :)

[Soya v1.1]

Hacker makes good motors, too, ya know. All this talk about Lehner being better. Maybe cheaper, but not better.

[alarsh]

HOLY COWW!!!!! 72 pages... thats amazing....

I want to but a BL in a E-Maxx. I think I am going to get a 1930/5 but what controller? I want to be snapping every part on the truck. I am trying to save some money on the controller though because most of them go for $355+.

Thanks for any help!

[BLK]

Originally posted by BJMFH
Hey BLK,

I have the Hacker Master Competition and I can run pack after pack without it shutting down, no matter what gear ratio. The Competition has a heat sink the size of Texas so that definately helps. It does get pretty warm after the 4th battery pack though.



Hey BJFMH,

I am going to try and find a 34 tooth gear as well, and give it a run. I will likely pick up ssome foam tires as well, since I lose traction pretty easily out in front of my street.

One question though, how In the world do you get the Hacker Master Comp to fit in your TC3? Where do you put it? I bought a smaller servo to give it a try in the "normal" spot, but the servo is digital, and I have remember reading on this thread about the interference that digital receivers and servos cause with the BL setups. Hmmm, Guess its time to experiment!:D :D

BLK

[k_sw31]

Yeah, you'll need to use a reciever pack with that servo, generally the higher current draw screws up the system, I wouldn't mess with something like that when It hits around 45 :eek:

Alarsh- You have a few options here, look at the hacker C50s, B50s, and lehner 19 series motors. All of those would give you tons of power, I've seen a B50 on 10 cells in an emaxx, this thing screamed, but I am not sure about "snap every part in the car" power, I have never owned an emaxx myself, soya has though...

For controllers look at the Lehner 18 series micro controllers, and the schulze 12.97, both are good, but pricey, the schulze sounds like a good controller, but I'm not sure if it could handle a 19 series...or a c50...

[alarsh]

If I do go BL, I think I will get a 1930/5 Lehner motor with a 18150 or 18120 controller. Here are the specs on the controllers:

18150: 18 Cells, 150 ampere cont. ($455)

18120: 18 Cells, 120 Ampere cont. ($355)

Which one do you think would best suit my needs? I will probably be running 12/14 cells most of the time. Which one should I get to go with the 1930/5?

I got the info from here.... (http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/controllers.htm)

[k_sw31]

You should be fine wiht the 18120....:)

[BJMFH]

Originally posted by BLK
Hey BJFMH,

I am going to try and find a 34 tooth gear as well, and give it a run. I will likely pick up ssome foam tires as well, since I lose traction pretty easily out in front of my street.

One question though, how In the world do you get the Hacker Master Comp to fit in your TC3? Where do you put it? I bought a smaller servo to give it a try in the "normal" spot, but the servo is digital, and I have remember reading on this thread about the interference that digital receivers and servos cause with the BL setups. Hmmm, Guess its time to experiment!:D :D

BLK

Hey BLK,

I put the Comp in the normal spot, I just had to file down the little partition directly behind the motor in order to make room. I don't know if you want to potentially "weaken" the chassis. It's such a small part of the chassis, I figured it wouldn't make a difference. The esc fits really nicely too. I mounted the receiver (FM 75) on top of the servo. I haven't run into any interference problem at all.

I use a normal size digital servo. I have the KO Propo PDS 2123 FET 7.2 Hi Speed Power Digital Servo (.06 it's really fast). It is a digital servo with metal gears and uses a FET boost. I had to sodder the FET wire on the servo to the positive wire on my ESC in order for it to operate. The servo won't operate without the FET wire conected to some power source. I haven't run into any problems regarding interference. Even when I run my car on a crowded track, nothing glitches. Maybe I'm just lucky! :D

[FoneFan]

Hi All,

Did anyone else go to the Tamyia Sedan Enduro? Bob Novak was there with his crew and they dominated the race. Tamiya Factory driver Dave Jun was there also running one of the not yet released Novak Brushlees motors and controllers. Between Jun and the Novak #1 car there was lots to see during the 4 hour race! Team Orion, Peak etc. was there as were many others! I have some good image on film I will post next week.

Cheers/Chip

[tc3punk]

fonefan: AIM me @ AFNufan asap!:D

[spreckenzy]

anyone know how the warrior controlers are? lehner basic 5300?

[tc3punk]

^^^
best bang for buck:)

[tc3punk]

fonefan, aim is AOL Instant messanger;)

but nevermind that

i just wanted to see the vids you said you got...

could you please email them to tc3punk@brushless.net ?

thnx:)

[JonDax]

I just got myself a new Emaxx this weekend, and of course i'm ready to go BL! :D

I was thinking a Hacker C50 and Master Competition controller, but now I'm thinking of maybe waiting for the Basic XL motor to come out, and use a 12.97 or 18.61 with that. Any thoughts on either of these setups? I'd like to have good torque for wheelspinning starts and wheelies, along with good top speed. Quick reverse would be nice too, my 58ce has a long delay into full reverse, anyone know if the Hacker Comp is better/faster/smoother for going into reverse? Do I need a reciever pack with the Hacker controller? Sounds like I might with the 12.97?

Also, do any of the ESCs allow for hooking the batteries up like te EVX controller? Like two 6cell packs into it making 14.4v? Or is there any way to wire/plug two packs together so I can charge them seperately as 6cells but then run them as 12? I do have a y-connector thing I made for running on my TXT with a Super Rooster, but I think that just makes the packs parallel and they put out 7.2v. My charger won't do 12cells, so how can I set it up for my maxx?
Thanks for any input!
--JD

[OptimaMan]

Have you guys seen the pictures for Team Orion's brushless controller? It looks exactly like my Schulze 12.97 that I paid almost 300 bucks for. Team Orion says the "street price" is around 160 bucks!!!! Does that mean I got ripped off 140 bucks????????

I need a new motor. I'm getting rid of my Hacker B50 6S and 8S (They're on sale at ebay). Those motors are better for higher power/cells. I want one with massive power with 6 or 7 cells. Any suggestions? I've already got the Lehner 5300. Does anybody make motors that rev like 7,000 rpm/volt?

Has anybody tried the micro 18... series controllers from Lehner? Any info?

Has anybody done a direct comparison between the lehner 4200 vs. 5300?

Has anybody any experience with the Hacker C-40 6 turn motor?

I hear the SuperSport is at 5,800 rpm/volt. I'm assuming Novak's racing one will be even higher rpm/volt. Any opinions or info?

[OptimaMan]

Anybody have that web page or site that contains the comparison table with all the presently available brushless motors??

[yf22k]

The 4200 and 5300 aren't that much of a difference. it all depends on gearing. The 4200 has a longer run time but not by much. The 4200 has more torque and the 5300 has higher rpm. I think if you figure ou the correct gear ratios to make them go the same speed, you would get about the same runtime. personally i like the 5300 better because i run 4wd touring cars. The 4200 would be better suited for buggies, stadium trucks and monster trucks running 6-8 cells

[BJMFH]

Originally posted by JonDax
I just got myself a new Emaxx this weekend, and of course i'm ready to go BL! :D

I was thinking a Hacker C50 and Master Competition controller, but now I'm thinking of maybe waiting for the Basic XL motor to come out, and use a 12.97 or 18.61 with that. Any thoughts on either of these setups? I'd like to have good torque for wheelspinning starts and wheelies, along with good top speed. Quick reverse would be nice too, my 58ce has a long delay into full reverse, anyone know if the Hacker Comp is better/faster/smoother for going into reverse? Do I need a reciever pack with the Hacker controller? Sounds like I might with the 12.97?

--JD

I'll try to answer your questions about the Hacker Competition. I own it and it's a superb ESC. It will reverse instantly from a complete stop. From a rolling stop it will brake, and then reverse when the car has reached a safe speed. The power delivery is extremely smooth. You don't need a receiver pack with the Comp.

The only downside to the Comp is that you can only run 12 cells. I drive a touring car so this isn't an issue with me. Since you have an Emaxx, you might want to run 14-16 cells, the Comp won't run more than 12.

I have no idea what motor would be best for your emaxx, someone on this board will though.

[Prinler]

Originally posted by yf22k
The 4200 has a longer run time but not by much. The 4200 has more torque and the 5300 has higher rpm.

The 4200 has like 3 mins more run time. thats alot. and it does have alot more torque

[OptimaMan]

Ooops, I did it again. I ordered another Hacker motor. This time it's a C-40 6 turn that I originally cancelled and now I reordered it.

So, look out for a comparison between the Lehner 5300 vs. the Hacker C40 6turn.

In a recent post, the B50 6S was actually slower than the 5300 in my TC. I've NEVER even ran the B50 8S because I figured it could only be slower. So, I'm selling both B50 Hackers (what a waste huh).

I'm also thinking about comparing it to a Lehner 1920 motor... but they're mucho expensivo.

Anybody actually use the Lehner 19 series motors? Are the mounting screws a bit larger (says M3 as opposed to M2.5) and are the mounting holes farther apart???

[RadicalRustler]

they produce more power than the basic with higher rpm and weigh 25 more onces. If you have the money, go for it. they are also longer by .8mm. More power for slighly more weight and leghth

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by BJMFH
The only downside to the Comp is that you can only run 12 cells. I drive a touring car so this isn't an issue with me. Since you have an Emaxx, you might want to run 14-16 cells, the Comp won't run more than 12.

Most E-maxx motors only handle 12 cells. Well, mine does, anyway....

[Muck]

I'm a bl newby and was hoping you could help me out. I read the whole bl forum a few weeks ago then decided on a Shcultz 18.61 and a Lehner Basic 4200. My question is what size wire and what type to use between the motor and controller? Would 14 GA stranded copper (basic wire) be ok or do I need the really fine strands, it also has kind of a silver color. Does it matter?

[RadicalRustler]

Use 12 gauge, but 14 should be fine. As long as the wires aren't over 4 inches going from the motor to the controller, any 12/14 rc wire is good.

[BJMFH]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
Most E-maxx motors only handle 12 cells. Well, mine does, anyway....

Like I said in my previous post, I'm completely out of my depth when it comes to motors for the Emaxx. I've never owned a monster truck (had a blackfoot but that doesn't count). I was basing what I said on a few crazy videos I've seen where BL monster trucks were running more than 12 cells.

I know if I had an Emaxx I'd want the option to go higher than 12 cells. Thank you for correcting me though, Soya. :D

[k_sw31]

All the BL controllers I have had experience with come with 12 guage stuff, works really good :D

[Soya v1.1]

Trust me, you don't need more than 12 cells:D
Brushless, a la Sledgehammer:D

[tc3punk]

I've seen pics with up to 32 cells on an Emaxx:eek: :D

Outkast666 (on maxxtraxx boards) is known for having major cells on BL

http://bomb-proofproducts.com/DSCF0235.JPG

http://bomb-proofproducts.com/Dscf0246.gif

http://bomb-proofproducts.com/DSCF0099.JPG

for info on Outkast's chassis, go to Bomb-Proof Products (http://bomb-proofproducts.com/)

;)

[Prinler]

and then the world blew up and the one with the most toys won.


who has the most? ME!


ok anything larger then 12 will cause more harm then good. to much and it will cause resistance. 12 and 14 are the best size. more BL things come with 14 pre installed. so even if you use 12 your still bottle necked at 14 :p
Also dont forget people Shcultz has horrible customer service and some of them just fry before you get out the door. I would give the NEW warrior ESC's a try before buying a huge ESC.

[spreckenzy]

i am thinking about putting a lehner 5300 and a warrior controller into a t2. i was wondering if it is worth it to get the heat sink, water cooler, or computer program thing. how does that computer link work?

[Prinler]

You cvant program the warrior. Also the water cooling is for boats only. It takes water from the water it sits in. Also the warrior has never over heated in most conditions. If its getting hot, your doing something wrong, On boast they run like 36 cells and crap like that. more then they should be. Just for speed. Also the Program is in German :)

[spreckenzy]

what about the heat sink?

[Prinler]

mine came with one.

[k_sw31]

Prinler- Do you still want some vids of my T3 with a basic on 6 cells? I will be able to email some to you on like next saturday (we are at my vacation house right now...) or, tc3punk might have the vids, I emailed him a few vids a while back....:)

Anyone else want some vids...?

[Soya v1.1]

bring em on!

[k_sw31]

OK, remind me on saturday, or tc3punk might still have them :D

[JonDax]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
Trust me, you don't need more than 12 cells:D
Brushless, a la Sledgehammer:D


Judging by my 5300 on 6cells in my xxx4, I don't think I'll be going more than 12cells in my Maxx. Should be plenty.:D Plus, more batteries = more weight, and more weight with more speed means longer times to slow down, and bigger impacts with objects. :eek: I'm going to try and keep my maxx somewhat light if possible.

Ok, so, now I'm leaning toward the Hacker Comp for the instant reverse, but I'm sorta confused by the new Basic XL motors vs. the 1930/x series motors. Seems like the new Basics are gonna be much cheaper, any reason to not wait for one of those versus getting a 1930/5-8 now? I'm leaning towards the LMT motors over the Hackers, seems like they might be better?

[k_sw31]

Well, with the basic XL motors versus the 19 series, I think the 19 series will have higher capabilities in terms of more cells etc. and will have a bit more power, plus more options for rpms, and the basic XLs will be a little more 'down to earth,' but it looks like there wont be as many choices in terms of rpm...

[andy497]

Well I just recovered from a speed run last night in my xxx-4. I've been slowly tweaking up the gearing on the off-road track where I run. At a 14t pinion, I was still getting beat by the fastest mods. I moved up to a 15t and I was about even with the hottest brushed mods on my track (mostly 10t doubles and singles). This was originally not working with my plain batt packs, but I moved up to matched 3300s and they handle the current fine. Anyhow, I kept pushing, 16t still runs fine and now I'm significantly out-jumping the mods. I went to 17t and it thermals after about 4:30 consistently. If I can reach 5 min, I'm good for racing, so I'm working on heat dissipation now. I got a heatsink for my motor (5300), and I'm working on attaching a computer heatsink to my 18.61.

Anyhoo, I decided it was time to try a speed run in my parking lot, so out came the biggest pinion I had, a 31t. Let me just say that 17 teeth to 31 is a big difference. I held the car in my hand and reved it, and the tires ballooned so big that they reached my hand in the middle of the car, and I was bleeding all over before I even knew what happened. Anyway, I made about three extreme passes in my parking lot, and decided to go for broke. It was dancing all over and was erratic to control, but I tried to keep it floored as long as I could for a high speed pass. It screamed by me and I turned to see it heading straight for a very big snow bank. D'oh! Well before I could even react it sort of skipped up the curb and launched up the 6 ft. or so high snow bank, flew another 10 ft or so over a parked SUV, and landed on the pavement in multiple pieces. Oh well, it was fun while it lasted.

Anyway, I've been doing lots of research on brushless in airplanes, and one thing to point out is that, on electric motors and brushless in particular, the higher the load (and load=current), the higher the power output of the motor (minus any heat losses from motor ineffeciency). Every brushless has different characteristics, but if you know the three constants, Kv (rpms/volt), Io (no-load current draw), and R (internal wire resistance), there are equations to work out the whole power/efficiency curve of the motor. (I've found tables of constants for hacker motors but not for lehner)

Basically the idea is to pick a motor that reaches peak efficiency at the current and voltage you plan on running it at while still having motor and esc able to dissipate the heat losses. (To get technical, there are two losses to worry about: magnetic losses (equal to voltage * Io) and copper resistance losses (equal to running current^2 * R (motor resistance), and peak efficiency is where these two losses are equal)

For rc cars, it's a lot harder to spec a motor since the load changes all the time while you drive, but we have general control over motor load (and thus current) through pinions (bigger pinion = higher motor load). Also, I found a nifty tool which helps to figure out the loads the motor sees while driving. It's called a super whatt meter, and you run it inline between the battery and esc. It measure current, voltage, watts, etc. flowing from the battery while you run the motor.

Brushless motors are no joke either. I held my car in place on the floor and pushed down while watching current draw. It easily spun the wheels while drawing 60-80 continuous amps. I'd like to see a brushed motor do that!

Oh one more thing, while I was getting the whatt meter
(www.modelelectronicscorp.com), I got an ultimate BEC. It's basically a small switching power supply that you solder to your esc and plug into your rx pack. It's tiny (20 g.), so it saved me almost 100 grams from the smallest rx batt I could find (5 AAA nimhs), and it handles something like 30 cells and 3 amps. That weight savings alone is almost like my esc + rx + servo combined. And best of all, no more batteries to charge.

Also, the coolest thing on that site by far are the solderless power tubes. They let you construct end to end packs of any size with ends that compress down and hold the cells together without any solder. No solder = less connection losses, used by many top pylon racers who pump massive current and need every last millivolt. (When will rc car racers catch on?!?) And, since there's no solder, they take no time at all to disassemble for swapping cells or using a discharge tray.

Whoa, long post, I better quite while I'm ahead. Good RCing, all.

[Prinler]

good ideas on that page. they really work?... neat O

[Soya v1.1]

Does anybody know where I can get some clear heat shrink? I need to clean my Shulze, but I don't want to cut off the old heatshrink without having any new stuff.

[k_sw31]

Andy- I have seen those solderless powertubes, a guy at my local track was running them with a brushless totally cutsom e maxx, they looked really neat, he was running some insane cells and those things held up great :D I think he was running a brushless system from them too, the best part is, they are right outside of where I live :DI think they'd be worth it :)

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
Does anybody know where I can get some clear heat shrink? I need to clean my Shulze, but I don't want to cut off the old heatshrink without having any new stuff.

Look on ebay and stuff, they have big things of heat shrink for rebuilding stick packs that work great, they are super heavy duty, I have my 3300 side by side shrinked it in, good stuff :)

[Soya v1.1]

That's cool and all, but the speed control is a bit smaller than a battery pack, and I don't think it's gonna shrink THAT much. Maybe some single cell heatshrink....

[k_sw31]

you can always trim it, OR WRAP IT IN DUCT TAPE! :p

[tc3punk]

eh, I have over 7mb of RC vids, so I might be off....

you had the T3 vids, on your street, and the pede, on your driveway?

Kyle right?

lol stoopid me:p

[k_sw31]

Yeah, I'm talking about the vids of my T3 on the street, do you still have them?

[tc3punk]

here's a bunch of vids that I have on the net (sorry if some have been previously posted:rolleyes: )

seems that Yahoo Briefcase doesn't allow Remote linking :(
so, I'll just link to the folder for those vids
---------------------------
PLEASE RIGHT CLICK / SAVE AS
---------------------------
Kufman's Tc3 with a Lehner BASIC 4200 on 10 cells
Kufer2.mpg (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/tom.clunk@sbcglobal.net/lst?.dir=/RC/Videos/Brushless&.order=&.view=l&.src=bc&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/) LINK>DON'T SAVE AS
---------------------------
Ivan's Tc3 with a Lehner 1525/7 on 7 cells
Mercedes.zip (http://home.austrosearch.at/tc3punk/Mercedes.zip)
---------------------------
Ivan's TA03F Pro with Lehner 1525/7 on 7cells
Mondeo5_septdivx.avi (http://home.austrosearch.at/tc3punk2/mondeo5_septdivx.avi)
---------------------------
PedeForEver's Pede with a Lehner 4200 on 10 cells
Speed Video 1.avi (http://www.public.iastate.edu/~mvw2/Speed%20Video%201.avi)
Speed Video 2.avi (http://www.public.iastate.edu/~mvw2/Speed%20Video%202.avi)
---------------------------
Donnie (from RRH)'s RS4 Pro 3 with Lehner 5300 on 6 Cells
Pro3 Basic 5300.mpg (http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/video/MOV00207.MPG)
---------------------------
Donnie (from RRH)'s Emaxx with a Lehner 4200 on 6 cells
Emaxx 1 (http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/video/MOV00204.MPG)
Emaxx 2 (http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/video/MOV00200.MPG)
Emaxx 3 (http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/video/MOV00198.MPG)
---------------------------
Occifer's Video Compilation (done by JeLeak)
misc shots all done with Lehner 1930/5 on 12 cells
well actually, the tc3 vid was only bout 1/4throttle, so it's about 7-8 ish
Brushless Power.wmv (http://brushless.net/blpower.wmv)
--------------------------
Occifer's Emaxx with 1930/5 on 12 cells
First Run BL E (http://www.brushless.net/firstrunblE.wmv)
-------------------------
Occifer's Emaxx, with one nearly dead 2400 pack. this vid shows what cogging is
Cogging Video (http://brushless.net/cogging.wmv)
-------------------------
Kraeuterbutter's RS4MT with Basic 4200 on 8 and 10 cells
BL RS4MT with 4200.wmv (http://www.kraeuterbutter.at/Videos2/RS4MT_1_8buggywheels_good.wmv)
-------------------------
KB's Blazing Star with 4200
Blazing Star 4200 on 6 cells (http://stud3.tuwien.ac.at/~e9625624/Videos/BlazingStar_BL_6cells_low2.wmv)
Blazing Star 4200 on 8 cells (http://stud3.tuwien.ac.at/~e9625624/Videos/Blazing Star_BL_8cells_low2.wmv)
Blazing Star 4200 on 10 cells (http://stud3.tuwien.ac.at/~e9625624/Videos/Blazing Star_BL_10cells_low2.wmv)
-------------------------
KB's Emaxx, with hb30-12 motor on 16 1700mah batts
BL Sno Vid (http://stud3.tuwien.ac.at/~e9625624/Videos/E-Maxx_jumping_Snow_music.wmv)
-------------------------
JProphet42O's Modified Rustler with a 4200 on 6 to 8 cells
(this is parted up for bandwidth constraints)
BL Rusty 1.wmv (http://roninrc.com/blr1.wmv)
BL Rusty 2.wmv (http://roninrc.com/blr2.wmv)
BL Rusty 3.wmv (http://roninrc.com/blr3.wmv)
BL Rusty 4.wmv (http://roninrc.com/blr4.wmv)
BL Rusty 5.wmv (http://roninrc.com/blr5.wmv)
BL Rusty 6.wmv (http://roninrc.com/blr6.wmv)
BL Rusty 7.wmv (http://roninrc.com/blr7.wmv)
BL Rusty 8.wmv (http://roninrc.com/blr8.wmv)
-------------------------
k_sw31's T3 with 5300
k_ws31 T3 vid 1 thru 4 (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/tom.clunk@sbcglobal.net/lst?.dir=/RC/Videos/Brushless&.order=&.view=l&.src=bc&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/) LINK>DON'T SAVE AS
------------------------
someone (sorry, but I forgot where I got this awesome vid from...)'s Brushless Dagger, I'm pretty sure it's a 4200 on 10, but I'm not sure:(
Dagger Flips (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/tom.clunk@sbcglobal.net/lst?.dir=/RC/Videos/Brushless&.order=&.view=l&.src=bc&.done=http%3a//briefcase.yahoo.com/) LINK>DON'T SAVE AS
------------------------
Omniphil's 24 cell Hacker B50 8S power'd Emaxx (two 12 cell packs in parallel)
Omniphil's many pics and vids (http://24.128.241.113/emaxx/emaxx.htm) LINK>DON'T SAVE AS
------------------------
Outkast666's Emaxx with Extended Bombproof (http://www.bomb-proofproducts.com) chassis, running a basic 5300 on 10 cells
Outkast666's BL E (http://bomb-proofproducts.com/Mvc-785w.mpg)
Outkast666's BL E #2 (http://bomb-proofproducts.com/Mvc-783v.mpg)
------------------------
An anonymis BL E parking lot run
Parking Lot BL E (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tonyandliz/BL-UE-E.WMV)
------------------------
Waff's 10 cell BL E against a .40
BL vs .40 (http://www.waff.onestop.net/vid/waff_vid01.wmv)
-----------------------
Obihan's BL E Jumping and bashing
Obihan Bashing (http://home.wxs.nl/~go000006/Obihan_bashing.avi)
Obihan Jumping (http://home.wxs.nl/~go000006/Obihan_jumping.avi)
-----------------------
Random Emaxx with a Hacker 12s (B50?) on 12 cells
Hacker E on 12 (http://home.attbi.com/~rpeacocktemp2/b3.wmv)
-----------------------
THE JANG's Multiple Modeltech BL Vehicals
Jang's BL Vid Page (http://www.ultimatetraxxas.com/videos.html)
-----------------------
W!Id H0bb!35' Psycho Micro with a AstroFlight 010 BL
eh it don't wanna work :'( well, go to the movie section of there site, cause rczone blocks that name :rolleyes
-----------------------
sorry if I forgot to mention anyone, if one of these vids belongs to you, LMK, so you can get some recognition ;)
I'll add more later...

[tc3punk]

test to see if yahoo allows remote linking (http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/aa4323cc/bc/RC/Videos/kufer2.mpg?BCsktU.Ac.WQAfe1) :(

[RadicalRustler]

Nice VIDs! (I watched all of k_sw31's t3's, and i have dial-up, and some other vids too.)

[k_sw31]

TC3punk- to set the record strait.....

The stampede videos are actually with a speed gems pro setup and a 19 turn chameleon armature, the T3 vids are with a 5300 not a 4200, hope that helps :)

Enjoy :)

[tc3punk]

you pede vids are still on my host, but I'm not listing em here, cause they're not special :p

[k_sw31]

They are too special! Put em back on :p

[tc3punk]

meh....

they'll click on your bl T3 link, and they'll see the bl pede vids there, and prolly check it anyways:o

even tho, I think it's listed as BL on my yahoo account lol:rolleyes:

so, anyone know where I can see some BL vids?

there's about 5 more I could add, but yahoo don't allow .wmv or something, and KB's server is down:(

[Soya v1.1]

A Blazing Star with a BL? Mine blew up with a 19T....
How can I make videos? My Sledge absolutely tears it up:D

[tc3punk]

eh video camera is best bet:p

hook it up to your computer with usb, firewire, or video in composite, and edit with editing prog...

or have a friend that knows how to do that, record it and email it to me and I'll edit;)

[Soya v1.1]

I'd rather send it to you, because I don't have an editing program, but I don't even know how to send it to you:confused:

[tc3punk]

:confused: um....

do you have a digital camera that has firewire, or usb?, if you do, you should be able to hook it up, and capture the video with the software that came with the camera:(

I don't own a digi cam, so I'm not sure exactly what it entails, but on my cusins' sony cam, you hook it up with usb, and in adobe preimere, you press record, and it captures

what kind of camera is it?:p

[JonDax]

Originally posted by Prinler
" its only a bit faster then stock and you payed $400" i did feel stupid. After some ajustments and rewiring. IE took about 8 inch's ( yes eight ) off the amount of wire from the controler to the motor. The C50 Screams.

Prinler,
So are you liking your Hacker system now? Is it still only a bit faster than stock after you removed all that wire, or is it more dramatic? I'm trying to decide between the C50, 1930, or the new 5000XL from lehner. I definitely want to be running with nitros! I'm also leaning towards the Master Comp ESC--I want instant reverse.

[spreckenzy]

i just ordered a lerhner warrior controller and 5300 motor. i was wondering if the controller comes with a battery plug. and if so what kind?

[Mr. Constructor]

Anybody tried a single BL setup in an 6th scale Buggy (that from traxxas) ??
any suggestions meanings or solutions ??
I´m just thinking of converting it, (it was E too, but with small power)
maybe 18 cells at max 70 A and with one Lehner 2240 ??
Maybe you find another (hopefully better . . .;) ) Solution ??

see ya !!

[RadicalRustler]

Mr. constructor, have you been watching us post? Or were you gone somewhere?

the taxxas 1/6 scale is a flippin 900$!!!! And i'm a 14 year old canadian who is near broke. Lucky me the economy is the best of the g8 countries.
I could never afford to make that sucker bl. I wish i could though.

On topic of the vids, JANG's other vids (where you click for other vids on top of ultrc page has a golf car going around an rc track, then take a jump! its hilarious!

[Prinler]

Originally posted by JonDax
Prinler,
So are you liking your Hacker system now? Is it still only a bit faster than stock after you removed all that wire, or is it more dramatic? I'm trying to decide between the C50, 1930, or the new 5000XL from lehner. I definitely want to be running with nitros! I'm also leaning towards the Master Comp ESC--I want instant reverse.

I have yet to try my truck after shortening thewires. All i know it that it screams at me. Literally. I can hear alot more RPM's It was fast before. Strong and fast. but we will see prolly tomorrow. I lost the Hex Screws that ghold the out put yoke thing onto the front Diff. So its free Spinning on one side. :(

I will tell ya tomorrow :)

well look at that. Just went outside. Its Stormy outside. High winds and cold temps and lots or water :( maybe it will be more the one day. DANG i got and i got tomorrow and the next off! ARG

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by spreckenzy
i just ordered a lerhner warrior controller and 5300 motor. i was wondering if the controller comes with a battery plug. and if so what kind?

Didn't come with any for me, just ready for a deans, it came with the gold motor connecters though...

Soya- Hook your vid camera up to your computer (through usb, firewire, etc.) open up windows movie maker, do the record thing, and it is pretty sinple...;)

Mr. Constucter- I'd go for it! Do something like a 22 series or 19 series and something around 12 cells, your gonna want a lot of power, those things are huge!

[RadicalRustler]

12 cells isn't good enough for the 22 series. and if you do that project (it will be a black hole for money in the begining) do it with two 2280 (3000-4000w) and 30 cells/60cells parralel. that would go too fast for a speed gun!

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by tc3punk
what kind of camera is it?:p

It's a Sony Handycam:(

[chasmo]

i've got a aveox rc7 system and the speed control is burnt up I was wondering if I could use a sensorless controler with this motor

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
It's a Sony Handycam:(

Ok, that is similar to my camera...Get the usb cable that came with it (it will be usb on the computer end, some funky connecter on the camera end) and hook it up, open up windows movie maker, go to 'record', and the rest should be cake ... :)

Chasmo...I dont think you can, the sensored motor needs an ESC that can reconize the sensors...or whatever :rolleyes:

[OptimaMan]

Chasmo:

Yes, you can use a sensorless controller with your aveox RC7 motor. Make sure you get a controller with adjustable timing though - the 4 pole motor uses a slightly different timing than the two pole designs of Lehner and Hacker.

[OptimaMan]

Chasmo:

Yes, you can use a sensorless controller with your aveox RC7 motor. Make sure you get a controller with adjustable timing though - the 4 pole motor uses a slightly different timing than the two pole designs of Lehner and Hacker.

[BLK]

Originally posted by andy497


Oh one more thing, while I was getting the whatt meter
(www.modelelectronicscorp.com), I got an ultimate BEC. It's basically a small switching power supply that you solder to your esc and plug into your rx pack. It's tiny (20 g.), so it saved me almost 100 grams from the smallest rx batt I could find (5 AAA nimhs), and it handles something like 30 cells and 3 amps. That weight savings alone is almost like my esc + rx + servo combined. And best of all, no more batteries to charge.

Also, the coolest thing on that site by far are the solderless power tubes. They let you construct end to end packs of any size with ends that compress down and hold the cells together without any solder. No solder = less connection losses, used by many top pylon racers who pump massive current and need every last millivolt. (When will rc car racers catch on?!?) And, since there's no solder, they take no time at all to disassemble for swapping cells or using a discharge tray.

Whoa, long post, I better quite while I'm ahead. Good RCing, all.

Hey Andy,

Have you tried one of these power tubes? They look like they would be pretty nice. Anyone else try one of these things?

BLK

[Mr. Constructor]

To RadicalRustler

yes I´ve had some time off, because my PC wasn´t connected, my switching from 56K to 2 MB/s DSL is on the way but between there is a ruin at all !! ;)
So I have to time my wents into the net a little bit.

But as for the traxxas, I bought it maybe 5 years ago it was OK but the Motor wasn´t that Powerful, so I made a E Version of it but with 24 cells !! and weighting around 10 kg, thats too heavy.
so I wannaput some "newer" power into it and reduce the weight also, the 6 kg is the goal, that is reachable.
(you´re right, the costs are THAT heavy but aren´t we all a little crazy ???:D )
yes 30 cells are great but the car will be too heavy, this will not result in a better speed (+ 15 cells weights around 1,2 kg extra !!)
but the idea is good . . .. . . hmmmm . . . . .really good :D

To k_sw31

You´re right, but the BL´s (most) that are available go "only " up to 1000 W each and the 2 BL system is running excellent, but it is costly !!(i´m not an arabian King or watever . . .;) )
are you aware of any manufacturer that makes bigger BL ??
(not the LRK ones the RPM is too bad, but power is 6 times higher than normal BL :D )

To Chasmo:

yes it is possible but as optima man said, the best way is to get a Schulze (OK the best way to ruin your wallet also . . . .)
they´re still programmable, the Kontroniks also, but as I heard they´re hard to get in the US.
hmmm . . . . . .next with car software might be the bigger Lehner series (1860 ESC or better) Ask the Manufacturer for the use of your motor and a car software.

see ya

[yf22k]

BLK,
I just ordered some power tubes on tuesday night. I should be getting them tomrrow. They seem really nice and customer service at that site seemed really helpful. I'll let you know how it goes

[andy497]

Yah, I talked with the model electric guys on the phone and they seemed very nice. I ordered my stuff on a Monday afternoon and got it by Wednesday. not bad.

I haven't tried the power tubes yet, but I was reading RCModeler the other day, and some guy who just won the f5b pattern (airplane) or something nationals was running them. He had two 10 cell packs in series and was competitive with the latest nitros (at probably less runtime though).

[yf22k]

They're supposed to have less resistance because the batteries are stacked without the battery bars between them.

[JonDax]

Originally posted by andy497
Yah, I talked with the model electric guys on the phone and they seemed very nice. I ordered my stuff on a Monday afternoon and got it by Wednesday. not bad.


Which Ultimate BEC did you get? The regular or high current one? Do you know which one is 6v?

[chasmo]

THe shultz speedcontrollers arealittle to much for me will the warrior 7018 be tomuch trouble toget to work right with the rc7 motor if it wont work right what are some of the less expensive controllers that have adjustable timing

[yf22k]

the 7018 doesn't have different timings. but it still may work

[Prinler]

Hacker master ESC's

[BLK]

Thanks for the replies Andy & Y22fk. I am going to order a couple as well, just to try them out. You going to just replace the connector with a Deans when you get them?

BLK

[yf22k]

hey BLK i have my warrior 7018 for sale still...not sure if i wanted to sell it. but yeah if ur interested pm or e-mail me

[Prinler]

Dude I shipped FinedsigneRc my 7018 and he left me a msg he would ship my replacment out as soon as he recived his shipment from Germany. Blah Blah month later still nothing... I call telling him i want my controler on his awnsering machine. He is at some Event for 4 days or something. I mean damn whats the deal :(
How Rude

[k_sw31]

Dude I finally got my cheap ass replacement from them a month ago, I sent the original thing in at the end of september :mad:

[Prinler]

Please tell me your joking. Did you call or anything?

[WheelNut]

chasmo-your talking about Aveox's RC7 motor right? If so its sensored so you can't run Hacker, Lehner, etc... speed controller with it! You need to run Aveoxs speed control. Since the system is sensored it will be alot smoother than lehner, hacker, etc's... systems.But the power won't be as high, though the driveability will be higher, so it pays off.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Prinler
Please tell me your joking. Did you call or anything?

Dead serious.

Part of it was, I was only the second one to fry a lehner controller, and they didn't know at the time that they weren't getting replys for the german factory. So they were reluctant to send a replacement, and they finally did. I called them about 5 times...:mad:

chasmo- Just buy an aveox controller, its your best bet and you wont risk screwing anything up....

[Prinler]

Just Sell it and buy a REAL Brushless :) like a 19 series :)

[JonDax]

Originally posted by Prinler
Dude I shipped FinedsigneRc my 7018 and he left me a msg he would ship my replacment out as soon as he recived his shipment from Germany. Blah Blah month later still nothing... I call telling him i want my controler on his awnsering machine. He is at some Event for 4 days or something. I mean damn whats the deal :(
How Rude

Man, that sucks. I tried calling too and got the same message. This is one of the reasons I'm thinking of Hacker for my next setup--at least they have an American distributor, I would hope that would help with warranty issues.

[Prinler]

Im going to cry!!! my friend told me there is a thing called Credit Card chargeback.... all i have to do is contact mastercard and tell them they F**** me over and they will revers the charges. :) then when Chris see's that im sure i will get a phone call. I will have most of the order :p

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Prinler
Just Sell it and buy a REAL Brushless :) like a 19 series :)

Well, form what I have heard, the aveox's are pretty good. Superb throttle control and reasonable power, they are better for racing because they are sensored, I was going to get one but I decided to get a basic because I couldn't find an american dealer at the time....

[andy497]

Actually, you should be able to run a sensored motor (rc7) with a sensorless controller.

What you can't do is run a sensorless motor with a sensored-only controller.

My schulze (sensorless) manual specifically talks about running aveox motors just fine. In fact, it says you might get more performance out of the motor since it will no longer be tied to sensor pulses. If you're interested in schulze, I would try finedesign, the 18.61 is a steal at $169 or so.

About the ultimate BEC, mine is the lower cell one. It puts out a regulated 5.0V. Jeez, if I knew there was a 6.0V one I would have gotten that. My servo is something like 20% faster with 6.0V input.

I haven't taken a look at it (its under shrink-wrap), but it seems like a not too complicated circuit. I wonder if there's a potentiometer I can tweak to adjust the output voltage.

[BLK]

Originally posted by yf22k
hey BLK i have my warrior 7018 for sale still...not sure if i wanted to sell it. but yeah if ur interested pm or e-mail me

yf22k,
I don't really need another controller, I was talking about the power tubes. Sorry if there was any confusion!

BLK

[yf22k]

haha i think i misread a post before. I'm currently studying for finals so i'm a little absent minded sometimes heh.

[chasmo]

Im sure my aveox controller was screwed up from the time I got it the weird thing was that i couldnt get it set up right and I probably spent 3 days screwing with it and then suddenly it worked drove the car a couple months and the damn thing would screw up again and take another couple of days to get it to work it did this for about a year.

so Ill order the schulze tonight and the damn thing will probably work tomarow


Prinler-the rc7 motor is all you need in a 12th scale car if you give it full throtle when your doing about 30 it will throw the car completly sideways

[Prinler]

Well in a 12th scale i would love a motor to make it do 90 :)

like a Tamiya F1 :) difect Drive with a 1940 on 30 cells and all meatal gears

[k_sw31]

yes, 30 cells in a tamiya F1, sounds possible ;)

yf22k, go for it! :p

[Soya v1.1]

Especially under the tiny F1 body:p

[yf22k]

LOL...ok i may be a little absent minded right now but i don't think it'll be enough to get me to put 30 cells in a 103 lol....i am however thinking of sticking my 5300 in there lol

[RadicalRustler]

I just heard from JANG ant utrc that the kit 4-tec has been discontinued. as that was what i was ordering, my funds will now be directed towards a lehner 7018 and 5300 from fine design unless runrunner has some better deals.
Does the 7018 come with reverse right away (from finedesign) or is it programable so you can get it. (i konw it has it, heard from you guys) B/c rr has only one model while finedeisgn has two, one with, onw without.

[tc3punk]

guess what!!:D

I sold my Emaxx, and Rustler!

and,
I'm getting one of these:
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL25/912349/1670078/20436635.jpg
:p :eek: :)

but don't worry, it'll be BL

Graphic Artist (maxxtraxx) said:
I just bought a solid Kimbrough spur gear and used a doorknob drill bit to cut the center out. Then I attached it to the stock MBX center diff.

The buggy is still a work in progress. One of these days, I'm gonna make a new chassis and upper decks for it so I can center the motors. Sorry, I don't have any close-up shots of the center diff and spur. I'll have to put that on my list of things to do.

Here are some pics:

http://webpages.charter.net/cmonn/ofna1.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/cmonn/ofna2.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/cmonn/ofna3.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/cmonn/ofna4.jpg

so, soon I'll have a BL Hyper7 Pro!

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[Prinler]

*wipes his mouth*

WOW
come to pappa

[ViciousKnives]

jeez, that thing looks insane.

[RCmaniac324]

*drools excessively on desk*

WOW...that's all I can say...just...WOW!!!

That's sweet man, let us know how it works out.:D :p :)

[Muck]

The Ultimate Bec looks pretty good. Obviously, one end connects to the radio, where does the other end connect up at? Does it work well?

[k_sw31]

...and yet he still uses tamiya connecters.... :p

[tc3punk]

just to clear up any confusion, that is not my Elec. MBX R2, that is Graphic Artist's from Maxxtraxx....

but, I'm going to be doing the exact same thing, with a Hyper7:p

[ViciousKnives]

is that the novak brushless setup?? i'm seeing a lot of novak logos here and there.

[Prinler]

You obviously dont own a Maxx...
This are Maxx Motors and The Maxx EVX ESC

[Popop]

TC3Punk, please prefer a single Speed700 setup than twin-550 ... A lot more torquy, powerfull and durable !
(Even cheaper I'm sure)

In FE boating we use to compare those combos (even twin top-level 05mods) and the twin-05 never had a chance compared to a single 700 unit ... I also scratch-built many cars and can say that's the same way for 1:8 Off-road and on-road action !

This single setup will also let you replace the 700 can by a 600-1000W B/L motor ...

Bye

[tc3punk]

popop, I'm I'm not going to be running dual 550's...

that was just to show, that it's fairly easy to mod 1/8 buggies for elec.

I'm going to be running a 1930/5 with 12 cells once I get the buggy:D

[Soya v1.1]

I was gonna do that, too, but you beat me to it:p

[BJMFH]

That's an awesome project buggy TC3punk! Please keep us posted!

When you finish it, you and Mr. Constructor should race your custom 1/8 scale BL buggies. :D

At least submit some pictures to RCCA, it would win ride of the month for sure.

[ViciousKnives]

Originally posted by Prinler
You obviously dont own a Maxx...
This are Maxx Motors and The Maxx EVX ESC


heheh, don't gotta jump on me for it :p ...


but yeah, i haven't been into rc for around 10 years. just got back into it recently. last car that i bought brand new before i got my tc3 was an rc10l.

i'll be getting another one soon. going to get a nitro monster truck for that one, so i can run for like an hour :D and punish it in all the empty dirt lots by my house.

[Popop]

OK Tc3... Then no pb !
I bless your project !!
:p ;)

Popop
:p "B/L conversion gourou":p

[RadicalRustler]

Originally posted by RadicalRustler
I just heard from JANG ant utrc that the kit 4-tec has been discontinued. as that was what i was ordering, my funds will now be directed towards a lehner 7018 and 5300 from fine design unless runrunner has some better deals.
Does the 7018 come with reverse right away (from finedesign) or is it programable so you can get it. (i konw it has it, heard from you guys) B/c rrh has only one model while finedeisgn has two, one with, onw without.
No help for me?
(and does anyone have and e-manual for the 7018)

[tc3punk]

occifer3r667: it's either on or....
forward only w/ brakes, or forward w/ brakes and reverse w/ brakes
;)

[WheelNut]

Have any of you guys checked out Novaks brushless system lately?

They just released the manual for it, I read it over and the motor looks really good! Puts out 225W at 7.2V. And it says to gear the motor the same a Roar stock motor, but it revs up to 41000 rpm. So the top speed should be good. Plus the sensored design should be really smooth, and reliable.

Did you know that Novak won Tamiya 4hour endurance race? 1st and second and something like 5th also. They got about 9.6 minutes out of each battery at race pace! (GP3300's), and that included pit stops.

I'm going to buy this system definately, and run it on 7 cells. Should be more reliable than the non-sensored systems, plus cheaper.

[RadicalRustler]

No, the warrior/basic is cheaper, 20$ canadian (380 to 400) and should be longer lasting.

[Prinler]

I dont like the idea of running a Novak. I mean if they wanted to pay me to test there BL for them i would think about it. but pay? come on thats basicly what your doing. Guinni piggs

[tc3punk]

lol@prinler

[yf22k]

LOL Prinler's got a point.
I'd rather not spend money on something totally new when i can get something with much production time for the same money.

I'm still debating on whether or not to sell my warrior 7018 and basic 4200. i'm waiting on an offer for the 7018.
I need some convincing lol. I'm thinking if i do sell that stuff i'll get a lehner 1520/6 motor. But i need some motivation against another basic 5300. I will be running it in a 4wd touring car.

any opinions would be great.

[tc3punk]

http://mavweb.mnsu.edu/cheatt/top3.jpg

that's a pic of the Hyper7 Pro I just bought Rolling Chassis for $220!

soooo excited:D

[Prinler]

I got a point? kool!!!!

Hyuck

you trying to pull a fast one on me Tc3? thats no rolling chassis :)

[tc3punk]

lol

that's the pic that he took, like 2 months ago

then, he got an offer on the motor, and sold

it's been rolling chassis, waiting to be sold ever since

I paypal'd him earlier today, and he should be sending it tomorow:D

[WheelNut]

You know Novak beat Hacker in Tamiya's endurance race by over laps! Novak did 890 laps vs. the 624 of team hacker. And their system performed flawlessly the whole race, so I wouldn't say that buying it would be testing the system for Novak.

I just have to defend the novak system. At least if something goes wrong with the novak you can send it in and have it fixed quickly, I've never heard a good story about people having their German system serviced. Hasn't k_sw31 been waiting for over a month to get his 7018 back? Of course they ddi send him a 4018 in the mean time, but still.

Mabye this can sprak some debate in here.

At least this Novak system will open the market to Brushless alot more as a whole, a car system actually avaliable at the LHS!

[Soya v1.1]

Just out of curiosity, who was driving for Novak?

[RadicalRustler]

Some guys were drivng, thats as much as i know.:p

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by WheelNut
You know Novak beat Hacker in Tamiya's endurance race by over laps! Novak did 890 laps vs. the 624 of team hacker. And their system performed flawlessly the whole race, so I wouldn't say that buying it would be testing the system for Novak.

I just have to defend the novak system. At least if something goes wrong with the novak you can send it in and have it fixed quickly, I've never heard a good story about people having their German system serviced. Hasn't k_sw31 been waiting for over a month to get his 7018 back? Of course they ddi send him a 4018 in the mean time, but still.

Mabye this can sprak some debate in here.

At least this Novak system will open the market to Brushless alot more as a whole, a car system actually avaliable at the LHS!

Well, technically I have been waiting since late september. ;) I just got the replacement back a month ago :p pretty ridiculous :(

But with conversations between me and Chris from fine design, they always get repaired units back in 4 weeks or less for schulze, and 2 weeks or less for hacker. It will be neat to see if a good BL system is produced by novak or orion though, they both look really neat, but I'm not being a guinea pig! (except for my B4, but I trust AE ;))

Edit: THey say they haven't recieved any repaired stuff from Lehner...

[Prinler]

So wait. They send it to be fixed? Screw this. I had it for less then a week! they should take and put it up there arse. Im going to call my Cradit Card Company and have them do a charge back. IE..... give me all my money back.. and they will... i know i will have a phone call with in the next day. I dont want to be an jerk but i cant even talk to him on the phone.

[k_sw31]

They send it back to the manufacterer to be repaired, and if it isn't fixable, they will send a replacement. But, keep in mind Chris is even more frustrated than I am, he says there are about 6 or so other people in a similar position as me, and they haven't gotten a single thing from the place in germany, now I really want a schulze just because the 4 weeks or less thing :(

[Prinler]

Ok just got off the phone with Chris. Lehner hasnt made 7018's in months. They stoped so they could make the updated ones. Good for us. Only problem they have yet to ship any controlers at all. From what he told me he gave them an Altimadum. Send me stuff or i will stop carrying your stuff.... :( oh well... also told me Felix? and me are the only ones who have yet to recive anything from him. I hate being the only 2. Ok well he told me he would also take an upgrade. Just pay the difference. I think that is fair. So i can maybe get a Shultz or another hacker.


ok he also said dont purchase the 18.97's They use crapy componants that are to sensitive. They need to be more beefy. Said to wait a month or 2. he personally has seen like 8 fry out of 10. :(

[Soya v1.1]

I just ran my Sledge with 13 cells. It breaks the tires loose at 30:eek: :D :D :D

[tc3punk]

man, I sure hope my setup get's here soon

this really sucks:(

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by tc3punk
man, I sure hope my setup get's here soon

this really sucks:(

Try waiting for a B4 :(

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
I just ran my Sledge with 13 cells. It breaks the tires loose at 30:eek: :D :D :D

My T3 wheelied at 25 mph on 6 cells :D

[ViciousKnives]

yeah, i'm getting pretty damn impatient with mine right now too. i didn't mind waiting for a while because i had school and all, but my spring break will be here at the end of this week (and it isn't even spring yet, lol :D :D ), and i want to have something to do especially since i blew a lot of money on this brushless system and thus cannot do anything for the break. :mad:

[Prinler]

if ya purxchased a Lehner... you might want to think Shultz or Hacker... Shultz first Hacker second. Get a Refund. :) make them over night it because they suck :)

[JonDax]

Originally posted by Prinler
Ok just got off the phone with Chris. Lehner hasnt made 7018's in months. They stoped so they could make the updated ones. Good for us. Only problem they have yet to ship any controlers at all. From what he told me he gave them an Altimadum. Send me stuff or i will stop carrying your stuff.... :( oh well... also told me Felix? and me are the only ones who have yet to recive anything from him. I hate being the only 2. Ok well he told me he would also take an upgrade. Just pay the difference. I think that is fair. So i can maybe get a Shultz or another hacker.


ok he also said dont purchase the 18.97's They use crapy componants that are to sensitive. They need to be more beefy. Said to wait a month or 2. he personally has seen like 8 fry out of 10. :(

Man, not good news on the 18.97s. I guess i am glad I went with the older 58ce--no problems yet (knock on wood). I just ordered the Hacker C50 and Master competition controller for my Emaxx. It should be here tomorrow. I can't wait to try it out! I hope the Hacker is durable, but I'm hoping since they have a US distributor they should have better customer service. I decided not to wait for the bigger lehner motors because my 5300 didn't get the best solder job on the wires going into the motor, and since it's sealed I don't see how to replace them. I don't want to wait for months to get it repaired!@

[spreckenzy]

you guys got me worried. i ordered a lehrner 7018 and a basic 5300 last week and i think the 7018 is backorder. This is from rumrunners . i have emailed them about it being backordered and three days later still no response. should i cancel the order and try a different brushless? or should i go ahead and wait for the lehrner?

[yf22k]

rummrunner hasn't been answering my e-mail either. I was asking them about the lehner 1520 motors but got no response.
I haven't gotten an answer from fReShJiVe yet on buying my 7018 but if you're interested in getting it cheaper let me know...

[spreckenzy]

we will have to see about that, i have to get in touch with rumrunners first. THis sucks why wont they resond?(a rhetorical question)

[yf22k]

Ok. Yeah i'm not sure. I'm wondering if they're not there. But i would have thought they'd announce that they're leaving for a while like they did before xmas i think it was.

[fReShJiVe]

yf22k - i'm waiting for your reply....you did not reply me when i ask you about the payment method you wii accept....DUH!! maybe you still dont want to ship international:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[yf22k]

hmm i thought i did reply...weird i'll send one now

[BLK]

I am thinking about converting my HPI Nitro MT to brushless, but I'm not even sure where to begin. How do those of your who have converted nitro to electric, fabricate motormounts for the motor? Do you use stock parts from other kits? Do you make the pieces yourselves? I think a BL MT would be an awsome truck, and I like the shaft drive of the Nitro MT better than the belt driven electric (plus the Nitro MT was my first foray back into RC cars and I would rather use it than buy a whole new kit). Any pointers on where to begin?


BK

[andy497]

About all the novak talk, as far as racing, it all comes down to the drivers. Four guys off the street running hacker would still probably not beat season team novak drivers running 27t stock, so I would take that with a grain of salt.

I am quite interested in novak's motor, but I would surely run it with my schulze controller over their sensored one. I'd like to see the motor constants on it. So far, the only manufacturer to respond to my email inquiries as been aveox, but their rc7 motor looks pretty sweet. It's over 80% efficient on 6 cells from like 10 - 100 amps with peak efficiency at around 50. I think that would be very solid for a 1/10th car.

[RadicalRustler]

Rumrunner has the amps/volts/rpm chart on their site for the basic 5300+4200, and if aveox has sent you theirs, you have a good censored, and a sensorless.

[Prinler]

I wouldnyt Recomend the C50 for an E-Maxx enless you have Supermaxx diffs. the diffs are just to week for something this strong. my Blig Blig Jolopy maxx is just sitting there on the floor becasue i cant aford the Super maxx diffs.

as for the 7018 stuff... or any thinkg lehner. There is a Hold on all there stuff.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The only way your going to get anything if if the distrubutor has it already instock. Lehner is waiting for there new resleases. They no longer make the 7018 .. well not the first one... the glitchy one. When you buy one now you get the new updated modle. This is like a Strike or something. We are not going to get anything for awhile... nothing has shipped to a distributor since OCT 1st. of last year.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So think of other options.

Also the Endurance Race for the Brushless... I want links. someone pm me or e-mail me with the links ... no way Novak won.


BLK is the HPI shaft? or belt still? if its belt just sell it and get a electric one. im sure someone would be wiling to trade.

About rumrunner they are backed up because the lehner thing. They are geting alot of harassing e-mails so they are reading them slower :)

[RadicalRustler]

go to novaks site (www.teamnovak.com) and on the front page it has the links to the super sport system operating manual ( i already have it) and the link to the race results.

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by k_sw31
My T3 wheelied at 25 mph on 6 cells :D

Yeah.......so...........:(

[BLK]

Originally posted by Prinler



BLK is the HPI shaft? or belt still? if its belt just sell it and get a electric one. im sure someone would be wiling to trade.



Prinler,
The nitro MT is shaft and the electric is belt driven. Thats why I'd like to convert, becuase I want to use the shaft drive of the nitro. I think it would be a sweet ride, but I wish HPI would just toss the belt and go with shaft drives...much like their new model "racer" they are coming out with.

Still open for suggestions on the conversion of the nitro MT...Anyone, anyone?

BLK

[yf22k]

ok i'm not worried about motor space in my car anymore..i've opened my options to any 15 or 19 series motors that are less than 51mm in length or the basic 5300. I'm not sure which is best for a 4wd touring car. I've heard that i shouldn't get the 1515/6 because it won't be able to rev high enough due to wind resistance. I will be running 3000mah NIMH batteries and a schulze 18.61 controller. I would like suggestions for speed, acceleration, runtime, and a good tradeoff between these. I would just like opinions on your experience with certain motors...thanks

[k_sw31]

From what I have seen and oberseved, the basic series seems to be one of the best light duty applications all htough they are still capable of heavy duty stuff. I think there wouldn't be many other options for all out speed if you want, unless you want to go super crazy. The basics have short armatures allowing them to rev higher and faster than longer motors like the 15 or 19 series...:)

[BLK]

Originally posted by yf22k
ok i'm not worried about motor space in my car anymore..i've opened my options to any 15 or 19 series motors that are less than 51mm in length or the basic 5300. I'm not sure which is best for a 4wd touring car. I've heard that i shouldn't get the 1515/6 because it won't be able to rev high enough due to wind resistance. I will be running 3000mah NIMH batteries and a schulze 18.61 controller. I would like suggestions for speed, acceleration, runtime, and a good tradeoff between these. I would just like opinions on your experience with certain motors...thanks

I run a FT tc3 with a 5300/1861 setup so I'll give you my impressions. Running a matched pack of 3300s from promatch, and matched to a 17 and a 27 tooth pinion/stock spur. Most of this is a guess as to actual speeds.

With the 17 pinion:
Very fast acceleration and great top end speed. No way to really guess the top speed without a speed gun or attempt to measure distance over time, but it was faster than my P2k2 and speed gems amythist motors. Coasts nice and brakes are great. Controller warmed up considerably, but I was able to drive until the batteries went down, in the neighborhood of 12 minutes. This was at a constant up and down the street at top speed with intermitant donuts in the driveway and the occasional slow pass under my son's legs.

With the 27 tooth pinion:
Much higher top end...sick, sick speed at top end. Again no guess on actual MPH, but faster than my two speed HPI SS (of course remember, I live in high altitude, which has a big effect on gasoline motor output. In my real car, I lose something like 21% of the horsepower because of the altitude/barametric pressure/temperature, so I am assuming nitro motors are the same. But still the SS is a fast mama jama, and the 27 tooth 5300 is faster). Acceleration is not as smooth and not as quick right from the start, but the top end is fast fast. Don't try to control the car at this top end, becuase it is difficult and I almost ate the curb on several occasions becuase the car's speed is too much for the brakes (or at least too much for the adhesion of the tires). I ran the car for maybe 7 minutes then the esc got too hot and glitched all over the place. The car would get out of control and not stop, or stutter around. Geared too high I would guess and the esc could not dissapate the heat.

Overall I love the 5300, but I don't care for the 18.61. My hacker car master sport is just as smoth as the 18.61, has a better reverse mechanism, and stays cooler. I have yet to even get the thing warm (although, to be fair I have only run it with a c40 of varying pinion gears and not the 5300). I think Andy's hacker esc stays cool as well, run after run. The ONLY problem i have with the car master sport is the size of the thing. Hard to fit it into the tc3 without some tweakage or smaller sized steering servo. If you run revers, the 18.61 will drive you nuts becuase it takes a long time to engage.

BLK

[yf22k]

interesting...what's your definitiion of heavy duty? off road and moster trucks? If i were to race on a track i should probably go with another basic 5300 then for faster motor acceleration...or should i go with a 15 series with a high rpm/volt rating?

BLK,
Yes i run the same setup in my touring car. I love it...and yes the reverse gets annoying lol. but its really great with throttle response. I'm wondering if i should get another one for my other car or a crazier motor lol.

[Prinler]

the c40 looks kool. anyone ever play with you? i never see it mentioned.

[tc3punk]

BLK, get a maxxtraxx account, then click here.... (http://216.89.252.161/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=29;t=25415)

that has one way to mount to a buggy's center diff, but I'm not sure about the nmt...:rolleyes:

[k_sw31]

Converting a nitro car is simple, all you need is a way to make a motor mount, and a 32 pitch pinion similar to the # of teeth on the stock engine's clutch bell :rolleyes:

[RadicalRustler]

The 1920/the lowest turn can go 6270rpms/v, which is better than the basic 5300. It is 2mm shorter (touring space) and weighs 25 grams more. It also produces 1000w at 30amps, so it is stronger than the basic. Only thing is, it costs more (187) and thats the 1920, the 1940 is huge. (the 1920 wieghs 5grams more than my trusty/rusty stinger)

[tc3punk]

word on the street is, but, nitro gears are not 32, there' a special pitch tath was made specificly for nitro...:rolleyes: :(

[k_sw31]

The only pitches I have heard of for common rc use is 32, 48, and 64. I do know some teeth are shaped slightly differently for different applications, but eh....whatever...:rolleyes:

[yf22k]

Originally posted by RadicalRustler
The 1920/the lowest turn can go 6270rpms/v, which is better than the basic 5300. It is 2mm shorter (touring space) and weighs 25 grams more. It also produces 1000w at 30amps, so it is stronger than the basic. Only thing is, it costs more (187) and thats the 1920, the 1940 is huge. (the 1920 wieghs 5grams more than my trusty/rusty stinger)

oh geez ok i think i might be set on the 1920/5. I just want to know what is the pitch diameter on the motor? and i think i'm going to need different motor screws since the basic has a m2.5 thread while the 19 series has a m3 thread. also i think i'm going to need different pinions to fit it because the shaft diameter is a little bigger than 3mm. hmm i might have to stick with the basic series motors. will normal pinions fit the 3.17mmm shaft? or is it too tight that you have to press it in? if it will fit i might get the 1920/5 hehe lmk thanks for the replies...any others are welcome

[k_sw31]

With the 19 series, I think they have 4mm shafts, you either need to drill out your existing pinions or fine design has some 4mm pinions...I think. You shouldn't have much of a problem fitting a 19 series in aslong as you can fit a stinger in...but dont take my word for it ;)

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by tc3punk
word on the street is, but, nitro gears are not 32, there' a special pitch tath was made specificly for nitro...:rolleyes: :(

Yes, this is true. My Nitro 4-Tec gears didn't line up with 32 pitch.

[k_sw31]

My RC10 Gt uses 32 pitch gears :)

[spreckenzy]

how long do i have to wait for a response from RumRummers hobbies. i ordered a basic 5300 and a warrior last week and i cant get a response from these guys. I am getting frustrated. i have tried email and the telephone. i guess i could write a letter. is the custumer service at fine design better?

frustrating!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[k_sw31]

If novak were to come out with a good brushless system, that would be really nice. They are already an established company with a great customer support system. Example, Last Friday, I sent a few ESCs in for remanufacturing, I got them back today. That is 11 days flat including shipping and there were three escs :D

[yf22k]

Originally posted by k_sw31
With the 19 series, I think they have 4mm shafts, you either need to drill out your existing pinions or fine design has some 4mm pinions...I think. You shouldn't have much of a problem fitting a 19 series in aslong as you can fit a stinger in...but dont take my word for it ;)


i think at rumrunner they offer 3.17mm and 4mm shafts. i'm not sure if my pinions will fit the 3.17mm if not then i'll probalby go back to the basic series. I'm not sure if i want to buy all new pinions. heh

[tc3punk]

eh all Lehner motors can come with both sizes...

and the smaller size should fit all regular pinions .....

[RadicalRustler]

Originally posted by spreckenzy
how long do i have to wait for a response from RumRummers hobbies. i ordered a basic 5300 and a warrior last week and i cant get a response from these guys. I am getting frustrated. i have tried email and the telephone. i guess i could write a letter. is the custumer service at fine design better?

frustrating!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, fine designs service is better. I e-mailed fd and rr at the same time, i got a relpy yesterday from fd, and haven't recieved a reply. I e-mailed them on saterday night.

[BJMFH]

I finally found a weak link in the Hacker Master Competition. I was running a 5300 motor will 6 cells and 34/72 gearing. I was performing speed runs. When the car would reach top speed, I would slam on the brakes as hard as possible.

Performance was consistent all throughout the first battery pack (3300). Braking performance was excellent.

As soon as the first battery pack was drained I immediately put a fresh pack in (2000) and resumed the test. The brakes had begun to fade but I could still stop the car in a relatively short distance. Braking performance was average.

When I switched over to the third pack (3000), the ESC was pretty hot. I went ahead and put it in anyway. During the second top speed/hard brake run of the third battery pack, the brakes were almost completely gone. The car then began to cog during hard acceleration and the brakes completely gave out. I could still accelerate but the brakes were gone. I drained the battery and let the car cool down.

One hour later I put a fresh pack (3300) back in the car. The acceleration and braking performance were both excellent, exactly like the first battery pack.

I learned that the Hacker Competition will take some pretty hard abuse, just not too much. It still performs wonderfully even after all the h*ll I put it through!

[Prinler]

34 holly cow. thats high. wicked fast i hope. I have been running the same setup on my pro 2. but i wouldnt go that high with the gearing :) I am trying to get 12 cells some how put onto my pro 2.... its no Ez feat.

Wish Lehner would get off there butt!

[spreckenzy]

so i finally got a hold of don at rumrunner hobby. i ordered my basic 5300 and warrior 7018 controller on Feb 17. Don said that he would get the redesigned warrior 7018's late next week so i will have it mid to early march. He is a pretty cool guy he answered all my questions and more. i cant wait to get this system i am excited. oh yeah Rumrunners email was down for about a week so if you havent gotten a response try again.

[Soya v1.1]

I had an interesting jump today. I made a 4 cell pack out of some good cells I have. Had WAAY more power than that crappy 7 cell I have. It was too fast to get up to top speed. I had my ramp set up, and proceeded to launch it into the atmosphere. Airtime was jawdropping. I kinda landed upside down one time, and everything came apart. More news later.

[Prinler]

Hey got any pix? 4 cells? how is 4 cells fast?

[BLK]

Originally posted by BJMFH
I finally found a weak link in the Hacker Master Competition. I was running a 5300 motor will 6 cells and 34/72 gearing. I was performing speed runs. When the car would reach top speed, I would slam on the brakes as hard as possible.

Performance was consistent all throughout the first battery pack (3300). Braking performance was excellent.

As soon as the first battery pack was drained I immediately put a fresh pack in (2000) and resumed the test. The brakes had begun to fade but I could still stop the car in a relatively short distance. Braking performance was average.

When I switched over to the third pack (3000), the ESC was pretty hot. I went ahead and put it in anyway. During the second top speed/hard brake run of the third battery pack, the brakes were almost completely gone. The car then began to cog during hard acceleration and the brakes completely gave out. I could still accelerate but the brakes were gone. I drained the battery and let the car cool down.

One hour later I put a fresh pack (3300) back in the car. The acceleration and braking performance were both excellent, exactly like the first battery pack.

I learned that the Hacker Competition will take some pretty hard abuse, just not too much. It still performs wonderfully even after all the h*ll I put it through!

LOL!!! Sounds about what I was doing with my tc3 5300/18.61, although not so methodical...but nevertheless, hard acceleration followed by hard braking. The only difference is that the 18.61 did not make it through one pack of 3300's...it got about 7 minutes in before it overheated and went kablooie. I was only geared up to 27 tooth pinion/stock spur too, so I wasn't nearly as high as your gear range. I think I'll stick with the Hacker over the schultze...the Hacker seems to be built for car applications more so than the schultze.

On a second note, I agree with k_sw31. I hope Novak builds a good bl system. I think we can all agree that they manufacture qualtiy esc's, specifically for cars, and will likely continue to do so in the future. They have a pretty good established reputation for reliability and customer service. I would imagine that the setup will be user friendly (a la plug & play so to speak), which is nice. Also, many people will get into BL, not for the amazing torque and rpm of these engines, but because they don't have to worry about brushes and comms and all the hassels that come with conventional motors. The more big name manufacturers that get into BL the better it will be for us, the consumers. Go Novak GO!

BLK

[k_sw31]

Yeah, once their BL systems have become pretty established and perfected I think I might buy a relativly low power setup (compared to other BLs) for my pede, for fun bashing :D

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by Prinler
4 cells? how is 4 cells fast?

Oops, I forgot to say that was added on to a 6 cell. 10 total. I posted a pic on 73.

[tc3punk]

it looks like cliff lett's record might not hold much longer:p

as I've said before, I have a 1930/5 and 18120 controller coming...

well, a friend of mine (TrueNorthStar) ordered that setup a while back, but with a 18150 instead of the 120...

he hadn't been on in a while, so I finnaly cought up with him for the first time in about 2 months, and I asked how his TC3 was holding up....

"it exploded:rolleyes: "
I'm thinking that the tranny couldn't take it, and blew something in the diffs or something...

says no, clocked at 110.3mph, and then it took to the air...
was running on 16 cells, and had a GPS on it, and got air underneeth it, and went about 8-10 ft up!:eek:

was running a Saleen S7 body, and said that when he get's his car fixed, or replaced (whichever's cheaper:rolleyes: ), he's gonna use a 2" wing on the front to add downforce lol

well, it looks like there could be a new speed king soon....

might even be me (If I get the balls to go past 80 lol)

-Nick;)

[yf22k]

tc3punk,

are you using a standard pinion or a 4mm pinion for your 19 series?

[tc3punk]

I got the standard size shaft motor coming:D

[yf22k]

Originally posted by tc3punk
I got the standard size shaft motor coming:D

you ordered the one with the 3.17mm shaft diameter?

[k_sw31]

Must be....Wholy crap, I cant even imagine driving something that small going 110 mph! But is the GPS accurate enough to qualify for the speed record?

[tc3punk]

yes, GPS is extremely accurate ;)

yf22k, there's 2 different sized shafts....
I ordered the smaller shaft, so I could use regular pinions...

but, when I ordered, they had a 1930/5 with the bigger shaft, in stock, so I would have had it by now, if I wanted the bigger shaft:rolleyes: :(

[yf22k]

ah ok thanks tc3 punk. I was just worried about my pinioins not fitting because of the extra .17mm over the basic series.

[andy497]

One thing to note about the 18.61 is that it has no heatsink. None. Nothing. And worse, it's insulated completely from outside air by thick shrinkwrap.

I was having problems with overheating when I went up in pinions, so I decided to take matters into my own hands. I cut a square out of the bottom of the shrinkwrap (over the Al plate) and tie-wrapped down a spare computer heatsink I had. I got a bigger aluminun one down to size, but finned memory heatsinks might be about right stock. I also used heatsink compound on the connection (artic silver II, sold on all kinds of overclocking websites) which is probably a good idea.

This made a night and day improvement. When I was overheating after a few minutes before (and burn-your-hands-hot to the touch), I can now run a GP3300 hard for the twelve minutes it takes to kill it, and the esc is just barely warm to the touch. For anybody having heat problems with a schulze, I would strongly suggest attaching a heatsink to the plate or using a fan or something. There is a guy at my track with a warrior who is using a fan with success, so that might work as well.

[Prinler]

Also voids your warrentee

[JonDax]

I got my hacker C50 and Master Comp controller last night--I'm gonna take off from work early today to go put it all together. The heatsink on this controller is huge! So are the two capacitors that stick up out of the case. Construction seems top notch--much nicer than the 58ce I got with the shrinkwrap with a hole for the heatsink with the caps hanging out. The motor is no slouch either--super nice machine and anodizing work, and it's got that hand grenade feeling in my hand. :D Hope I don't grenade my truck tonight!
The esc is huge though, I don't think it would fit too easily in something as small as a touring car, definitly not in my xxx4 buggy.

[JonDax]

Didn't mean to double post--and now I can't delete it! Oh well, progress report on the BL Maxx to come...

[Prinler]

Hope ya have CVD's and Supermaxx Idler gears.

[Soya v1.1]

I use a 40mm fan on my 18.61.

[Soya v1.1]

Here's a pic:

[RadicalRustler]

wheres the 18.61?

[Soya v1.1]

Haha. I wasn't in the mood to take a new pic, just imagine it's there:p

[RadicalRustler]

Problem: I don't know what the 18.61 looks like

[RadicalRustler]

Is the axis a good bl host? any other cheap 1:8 scale rc buggies to work for?

[Soya v1.1]

Here:

[k_sw31]

Look at the ofna LX. Dont get a duratrax...I dont like them. Also at stormer hobbies they have the 80% buil monster pirate for 130, its a great deal :D

[RadicalRustler]

what about a general silicones storm buggy for 500 canadian at www.greathobbies.com (GSC2000 is the product number) and a buggy is what I am looking for. A 1/8 scale 4wd stadium is also in the range, actually, it would be focused on that.

[RadicalRustler]

for all you people with money growing in that money tree in your backyard you spent $1000 on, heres something fun for you http://finedesignrc.com/cars.asp

[k_sw31]

I'd suggest you stay with ofna or similar companies that have been making 1/8 bugs for a long time and make a lot of them. The MP rolling chassis would be neat (HERE (http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=OFN00003&showbig=6809)) all you need to do is add tires, build shocks and some other stuff...and you could make it a 1/8th truggy :)

[RadicalRustler]

is this one good to convert? http://www.ofna.com/mbx_80.html

[tc3punk]

yup, the mbxr2 is a great platform, and is already proven to be a good electric vehical....

I'd say :

MBX R2 80%,
LX
hyper 7

that's the order I'd get em....

hyper 7 is a great buggy, but it's more money, cause it's more of a "race" buggy, than a basher...

I just got lucky to find a used hyper7 pro for $220:p

oh yeah, I found out yesterday, it's got an extra torsion diff comming with it:D

[RadicalRustler]

If i get a buggy, it'll probly be 1/10th scale, like this one here: https://www.shop.graupner.de/webapp/commerce/command/ExecMacro/Graupner/macros/main.d2w/report?lang=en

[tc3punk]

um, that didn't work for me:(

[Mr. Constructor]

To BLK and TC 3 Punk (have I got the posts mixed up???)

I use a 5mm thick aluminum plate to cut the design for the Motorholder, then drill some holes in the small side (in the 5mm there´s enough room for a M3 thread) so you will be able to use it as a Heatsink, Motormount, Stiffener Plate and maybe for other parts to be mounted on or at this plate.
This Construction was used on 3 or 4 of my BL Conversions (wich are all Nitro to BL Conversions)
The normal Motor Mounts from graupner (for flight motors in a 90 degr. angle with bottom plate like an L ) are only 2- 2,5 mm thick, that will twist in some cases)
Maybe another solution will work for your Nitro MT (It´s funny I was planning on converting the same Truck with BL technology . . . . .)
Use the same thickness, but instead Alu use anything like the plastic material that is used for the other supsension parts (see your yellow pages for plastik industrie resellers)
But the worse thing : Heat dissipation, but its the lightest way !!
If you wanna jave some Pics of the 8th conversion I´ve made, send me a Mail, I will try to answer you all Questions)
Maybe you will need some help from anyone who is able to produce parts with a lathe, that is very helpfull in some Cases, best way: own a Lathe by yourself !!)

As I have to correct (was a post maybe on 76 or so)

You ARE able to use Sensorde motors with NON Sensored ESC´s
(like Hacker, Lehner, Schulze, Kontronik) because the sensor are NOT needed !! (I use a sensored motor on these ESC´s with no broblems, the sensor signals are not used thats all !!)

The other way round (Sensored ESC with NON sensored BL)
is not functioning, because the ESC NEEDS the impulses that are given by the sensors to comutate, this will NOT Function, that is the only reason not to buy any sensored ESC´s !!

As for the Novak: the system is another understanding:
You have to assume that their System makes about 220 W
(wich seems to be low for us) but as you might remember the "normal" Motors will have a rating of maybe 70 % (BL have a rating up to 94 %) say a 540er will have 260 W (9T or so) multiple it by 0.7 (wich is 70 % then) you will see the Novak system is better, but it is designed for the economical use of the Battey power and life of the Batteries, the average power output from 6 cells is anything between 200 and 280 W (for the time the Akkus is getting down)

Trying to get a 700 W out of 7 Volts cause to a drastic 100 A !!!
(That will easily destroy every Battery !!

I Think Novak is only trying to get rid of the hassle and things, but is not exceeding the power that much that you become troubles with your batteries. In this Understanding, it is a good system, the ESC is quite small, but there are shadows:
the price tag is so high (round about 300 USD or more) and the Sensored ESC.
So you have to go to other manufacturers until Novak makes a NoN sensored ESC and a lighter Motor (and lighter Price too)
Compare the motor to a Lehner 1520er it´s better !! (and lighter too !!)

See ya !!

There is another thing for you 8th scale builders converters constructors out there: This what I mentioned before the Alu plate thing !!

[Mr. Constructor]

To RadicalRustler:

Take a look on the Academy Cars !!

www.academyhobby.com

they make good and cheap Cars !!
You will have to pay only round about 120-140 USD for a 4 WD Offroad that has many Tuning opportunities !!
(maybe I will get myself a 4WD soon too this Car looks good for BL (with the optional slipper not a Problem !!)

[RadicalRustler]

Thing i hate bout academy cars is that they don't show a price, i can't find a price anywhere for the rt-4 gp and i have checked all the english (and even a couple german ones) and can't find the damn price.
Any help?

I ordered a lehner warrior and 5300 from finedesign, anyone guess when the controller will ocme in? Before the end of march?

[spreckenzy]

i have a warrior 7018 coming late next week from rumrunner. they are getting their shippment from germany roughly an thursday so i will get mine about three days later. cant wait.

[RadicalRustler]

Hey, what motor d'you get? And my birthday is on the 10th, so i was hoping for a near birthday delivery. Probly come late next week for me, since i live in canada. Unless living near the am/canadian border helps with shipping.
My rustler is gonna die. I don't have bearings yet, and the rpms of the bl will kill the bearings giving me a good reason to buy bearings and nitro rear carriers. Ohh, I love plotting excuses.

[spreckenzy]

i got a 5300 from rumrunner. chris from finedesign said it would be weeks before he gets a warrior 7018 but he does have the 4018 if that will suit your needs.

[RadicalRustler]

I think i'll stay with n.a. cars, so a nitro mt is perfect! Now to get the money...

[Mr. Constructor]

To Radical Rustler:

I´ve seen the new 4WD Truck from Academy the first time, looks quite impressive and should be a lot cheaper than a HPI MT (in the racer version) and the tuningparts arent that costly, so the price has to be under the HPI !!)
Seems to me as if the next Car sould be a Acadmy . . . .
this Slipper Clutch for the MT is similar to the one found on the Electric ones, so you can use he same Spur gears and therefore use a wider variation of setups, this thing looks cool (if equipped with some Goodies !!)
The HPI is good no way, but the Price for the MT Racer is about 380 USD (transversion from Euro to USD) in Germany, thats a lot money for ´such a small truck (for the same we get an 8th Buggy full equipped here in Germany !!)

Tell me if you´re planning on buying this Car !!
(Want to see wich conversion you will do !!)

[RCmaniac324]

Hehehe. Just finished prepping my truck for rehabilitation from about a month ago when I shredded my idler gear b/c I kinda...er...got greedy and epoxied the diff tight...w/o a slipper. :D :p Hehe. Oh well. Still have the diff locked and still don't have a slipper, but I have a plan. My dad's a dentist, so he has a whole bunch of stuff that will allow me to essentially make an accurate mold of the spare gear I'm going to buy and make my own gear replacements out of this super-strong two part plastic he has. :D :p I love it. I can rip as many idlers as I want (Even though I shouldn't once I make the new one with his two part plastic...it's REALLY stong!!!), and always have a new one within half an hour!!! Hehe.

PS-Here's a pic of the gear. This was done with a Lehner Basic 5300 on only 6 cells. :D :p

[WhaDL]

Hey, did you guys see that the Novak BL system is now shipping ?

They've also posted a few pics to their website.

http://www.teamnovak.com/

[Mr. Constructor]

To RCmaniac324:

Looks ugly VERY Ugly, have you tried another steel gear ??
(robinson racing has them for many different Cars)
wich setup do you wanna drive, sounds to me as if there´s anything totally wrong, I´ve been using a 4WD belt driven system without any problems, the power is around 500 W !
Maybe you have hooked anything up incorrectly (don´t missunderstand me, I do not wanna say you´re a fool, but maybe some times I myself didn´t see the Problem either, my Wife is not in the Material but she helped me some times out !!)

To WhaDL:

as described above the system is limited to this Motor and the esc only has got the power to take BL´s up to 225 W (seen in the tech description on the Novak HP) this sounds not that good to me, it is powerful enough to get a sedan fast, but it is limited in the potential of BL, that is the worst thing, and the other is that you have to use the Condensator on the side (makes the ESC even bigger, why do not integrate this ??)
and the solder Posts (made out of the PCB Layer) is not that reliable, in Germany the V 8 from GM Racing is very popular, it has had the same design and after a few weeks every new one was equipped with gold 3.5mm connnectors to prevent the damage on the PCB, this could happen easier than you might think !!

see ya

[RadicalRustler]

i can get the racer version of the mt for $294 ($450 canadian), and since i don't want the engine anyways, and the kit is the same price. so i get better performace for the same price.

[RCmaniac324]

Mr. Constructor- Did you miss the part about me saying there's no slipper and I epoxied the diff tight??? :p When I did that, I kinda suspected this to happen, even though I didn't believe that the motor could have THAT much torque, considering its size......but I guess I was wrong, VERY wrong. Lol. :D :p

Anyways, my setup is as follows:
-MRC Ironman
-Lehner Warrior 7018/ Basic 5300 combo
-Full Dynamite red-seal bearings
-6 cell pack
-Reciever pack

I would have already bought all metal gears for my tranny, if it weren't for the fact that MRC is pretty much a no-name brand here in the US. :( So, I'm stuck with plastic gears unless I can figure out a way to cast my own metal ones. :(

From what I can tell, I have hooked everything up perfectly. Removed BEC jumper, plugged in reciever pack (4 AA cells), wires to motor are all in length requirements and connected properly, no binding in tranny......all seems well.

I was thinking of gearing up to help soften the mad torque this motor produces. Right now in my truck it is geared at a total ratio of 13.1:1......would gearing down to like 9 or 10:1 help me avoid shredding gears anymore??? Or could it be the heavy braking from high speeds doing it, in which case the gearing doesn't matter??? I'm thinking it's the braking b/c notice how in the pic I posted b4 how it is stripped on EXACTLY half of the gear, and the other half is perfect......what are your thoughts??? I would buy the slipper, except I've heard the one for my truck is crap and doesn't work with even standard brushed motors, let alone BL motors, and the guys at my LHS laughed in my face when I asked for it when I originally went BL.

So, any thoughts??? How can I tame this mad torque I am obtaining into useful-non-gear-shredding power??? Thanx in advance.