Brushless Motor Forum v3.0

[BJMFH]

Originally posted by DualBL
bjmfh, either make a "Y" connector to connect 2 6cell packs in series, or look at http://www.integy.com for chargers;)

Thanks dude! I need to get a new charger anyways. I want to make some 10 cell packs too. I actually do have a homemade Y connector assembled from some Dean's plugs. I'd rather just run the cells in one big battery pack than in a series of two six cell battery packs. The Y connector setup might be great for a larger vehicle (emaxx, 1/8 buggy, etc), but lumping two 6 cell sticks pack on top of each other in a tc3 isn't the greatest setup. I want to run 7 cells on the bottom and five cells on the top of the 7 cells. I do, however, use Y connectors in my home theater for my two subwoofers.

What do you guys use to to strap the extra batterys in place. I just use some velco straps; they don't work too well but it gets the job done. I was wondering if there was some official product out there that does the same thing.

[DualBL]

bjmfh, I wouldn't recomend running all 12 on the left side...
I have 6 on left, and then ziptied the other 6 cell pack on the bumper:p
you could get a smaller servo, and mount 7 + 1 on top on the left side, and then mount 3+1 on the right side between motor and servo.
:)

[BJMFH]

Originally posted by DualBL
bjmfh, I wouldn't recomend running all 12 on the left side...
I have 6 on left, and then ziptied the other 6 cell pack on the bumper:p
you could get a smaller servo, and mount 7 + 1 on top on the left side, and then mount 3+1 on the right side between motor and servo.
:)

You have to post a picture of the 6 cell pack on the bumper! :D

I'm planning on adding weights onto the right side, in order to balance things out somewhat. I have the Hacker Master Competition controller. That d*mn thing takes up quite a bit of room on the right side. I saw a setup on the Competition X website (i think?). They somehow fit three cells on the right side, even had battery slots too, and the Competition. I think the Competition rested on top of the cells. They were "only" running 10 cells though. They were running a B50 5S motor. I'm going to be running a 1920/5 (that is if rum runners ever feels like shipping it to me).

The bumper idea isn't too bad, but I'm not that brave. I realize that at 12 cell speeds, if a crash should happen, the car will pretty much disintegrate. If the batteries were on the left side, there's a better chance that something might be salvageable. If the batteries were attached to the front bumper, well you get the idea.

[DualBL]

heh
guess I should have said REAR bumper:rolleyes:

and I already posted pics of my car, but here is again...
http://www.brushless.net/~tc3punk/tc31.jpg
http://www.brushless.net/~tc3punk/tc32.jpg

[crono man]

yo t3 truck owners question for ya...

im thinking of getting the T3 for a local bmx track and my only concern is the short motor guard...anybody makes a longer motor guard thats covers the entire motor?

(x-post from t3 thread)

[BJMFH]

Thanks for reposting the picture DualBL. The battery pack doesn't look too bad attached to the rear bumper. Does the front end lift up during hard acceleration?

I noticed you still have a Magnum Sport. I still have mine too from over 10 years ago. It performs like new. The only bad thing is you can't set the servo endpoints. Nevertheless, it's great bashing transmitter.

[DualBL]

naw, front doesn't lift...
now if I put BOTH packs on rear bumper, I can garintee that it'd wheelie:p

about the controller, I got like 4 of em around here somewhere.
one of my dad's friends just gave me all of his rc stuff...
usa1, tamiya grasshopper, some radios, chargers, ect...
just the other day, he found a box on the side of the road...
in it was a 6 channel airplane controller and remote, and a rec to go w/ it:D
it's called a Aristo-Craft Hi-Tec Challenger 620
i'm thinking that it's from before hi-tec was a stand alone company?
i also got a new car called a Gallaxy RS, that looks like it's been once or twice, but i think it's from a japanese company, cause the only english on the box is Gallaxy RS, everything else is foriegn:rolleyes:

oh well, more free stuff for me:)

[Bird_of_Fire]

I just got my 5300/7018 from rumrunner hobbies for my HPI rs4 rally. Oh man. This thing has in insane amount of power. Just incredible. It pulls so incredibly hard from dead stop to top speed, and it reaches it in just a matter of seconds. And the best part of it - no brushes for me to replace/wear out. HUGE change from the 19t motor I used to have. God I love it. I do want to purchase a rx pack/charger for it though, and would appreciate it if anyone could point me to a link or model # of what would work best for my application. And also I want to know if I can somehow hook up my associated quasar NIMH charger to the reciever pack so I don't have to buy another wall wort to charge the rx pack. Thanks in advance for the replies, and the 100+ pages I went through before I decided on my brushless purchase. You guys rock! :)

[Soya v1.1]

Do you still have the stock rally tires? I have a RS4 Rally, and the tires went bald in like 3 runs with my Hacker :eek: :p

[Bird_of_Fire]

Heh the stock rally ones that were as hard as rocks went bald after a good 2 weeks of off road bashing. For the streets I use x-patterns or my belted slicks depending on how dusty/dirty the lot is. To be honest with you I don't take it off roading much, but I wanted the ground clearence to be there in case I needed it (and I do!)

[DualBL]

bird, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=MDD&P=7

just about any of those would work, but i'm thinking about getting a trinity one for my hyper 7...

to charge it, just set your quasar to 1amp...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX0896&P=0
you can buy that and then solder a plug that will connect to your charger, so you just have to plug it in.

hope I just made since:)

[DualBL]

haha!
i just found a link to an ebay auction for the radio I got for free...
http://**************/ws/*******************************3114065633
only difference between that and mine, is mine is 6 channel, and that is 7.
but the reciever only takes a certain type of plug (can't find anywhere), so I'm not sure how I'm gonna rig it up:(
-EDIT- e.b.a.y isn't allowed on here :mad

and now for the part of my post that relates to brushless...
i got my 2 motors, and 2 controllers sitting in front of me right now...
one motor makes the controller heat up, and it cog's really badly
it sounds like there's sand or seomthing grinding inside, or in the bearing.
anyways, gotta send it to RRH now, and see what they can do.

but i found this:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXABH9&P=7
I'm going to get that to addapt my emaxx spur onto, cause that'll be much easier than trying to get the emaxx spur onto a diff:rolleyes:

my Hyper-BL project has begun
WEEEEEE!!!:D:

[Bird_of_Fire]

Okay cool I was looking for some kind of adapter thingy that I can plug into the rx pack so I can solder some deans connectors on there. Awesome. Thanks a bunch dual! Appreciate it :)

[DualBL]

since I havn't seen promod post here since like the 10th page...

Promod's gallery (http://www.******.net/media.php?searchstr=user:417&trick=Any&type=Any&time=1053393545&search=search&limit=10)

dual 1940 on 32 cells;)

[k_sw31]

WHoly crap!

Not sure if he has enough cells there or not. :p

I'd imagine those batteries wouldn't stay around for long if there was a tumble at such speeds, with those velcro battery straps. :p

[tl01boi]

that emaxx looks sweet every chase anyone with it? lol jw whats the speed of that beast

[DualBL]

watch the vids
I'd guess around 60?
:confused:

[crono man]

is there a sensorless system outhere that has attained ZERO cogging with 6cells?

(i keep hearing that schulze speedos have done that but note sure)

[Simen123]

I`ve also heard the Schulze units are the smoothest. I just ordered a 12.97 Fwe (waterprotected :) ) from Fullers Fast Electrics, and hope to get it within a month(they have to get the esc from germany first.. They also recommended the Schulze over the Hacker comp. because they said the schulze is smoother). I`ll give a report when I get it. Optiman also used the 12.97 in his xxxs, but I don`t remember how smooth he said it was..........

[unit_4tec]

thats fast :eek:

[Bird_of_Fire]

I just got my 5300/7018 combo working the other day. Car is an RS4 rally on 6 cells. And all I can say is dear god. This thing is ballistic and just simply out of control. On a 120 yard strecth of open blacktop I can hardly keep the thing under control to even get to top speed. The torque is insane. No matter how tight I set my clutch I can hear the motor just whining up to max RPM no matter the speed. Tap the gas, and it just goes spinning out of control. So far the damage is one broken ballcup/stud for the camber, one severly smashed up trans am body, and 2 HPI belted slicks have been shredded beyond belief. I will not now, nor ever go back to brushed motors. The runtime is as if I'm using a 19t or 20t motor. Crazy. Definately money well spent in my opinion. My friends think otherwise till they see 18 inches of r/c car screaming past them at 35-37 mph. Anyways whether you guys know it or not, there's alot of useful information here, and I just wanted to thank you for helping me narrow down my desicion while I was lurking :)

[PatrickJ]

Yesterday I setup my 4200 like I would do with a 10turn motor and in my opinion once gear right there is no way a brush 05 can beat one of these in my opinion.

[crono man]

well well well the latest article in rcca is very interesting they pitted the novak bl against a 10t KR reedy motor.....lets just say that anybody that tells you that the novak bl cant keep up with a 10t motor is dead wrong;)

[BigBadTahoe]

I have the Novak BL in my MFE what is a good pinion gear to use with the stock spur? I am currently using an 18t. Is that hurting my top possible speed at all? It is pretty darn fast now but I always want more!:D

[Simen123]

I looking forward to reading that review :)
DubDucedDurango: Find the gear-ratio on your car, and see what it is compared to the ones in the Novak manual(they are based on touring cars though, so you would have to go a bit higher up on the ratio).

[crono man]

Originally posted by DubDucedDurango
I have the Novak BL in my MFE what is a good pinion gear to use with the stock spur? I am currently using an 18t. Is that hurting my top possible speed at all? It is pretty darn fast now but I always want more!:D

the novak has the corrected gear ratio chart on their website for off-roads trucks and buggies

[mpyacfo]

Dude, I think we need to start a new thread. This is crazy! But, anyways would you guys recommend a novak brushless system or orion brushless system? I am loyal to orion because I have won many races with my core touring 10x2! I will get a brushless system as soon as I get the money. BTW I am running 50mph now, how much will I be running with a brushless system?

[crono man]

Originally posted by mpyacfo
Dude, I think we need to start a new thread. This is crazy! But, anyways would you guys recommend a novak brushless system or orion brushless system? I am loyal to orion because I have won many races with my core touring 10x2! I will get a brushless system as soon as I get the money. BTW I am running 50mph now, how much will I be running with a brushless system?

bro, cars will start using anti-gravity motors before orion releases their bl system:D

anywho the novak is a great system that equals 10-12t motor no cogging acceleration smooth as glass etc..BUT if want to set a land speed record youre going to have to look towards the evil systems like lehners and hackers!

this is where my advices(i have the novak) stops and the nutjobs come in with their 10cell lehners setup to give you advices:D

[DualBL]

how fast do you think this will go w/ brushless?:p
http://www.jasonsstuff.com/pod/32%20coupe.JPG
http://www.jasonsstuff.com/pod/coupebodoff.JPG
just bought for $60 shipped:D

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by crono man
BUT if want to set a land speed record youre going to have to look towards the evil systems like lehners and hackers!

this is where my advices(i have the novak) stops and the nutjobs come in with their 10cell lehners setup to give you advices:D

My 12 cell Hacker RS4 FWD is very evil:)

[crono man]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
My 12 cell Hacker RS4 FWD is very evil:)

i rest my case:D

[RadicalRustler]

my 100 cell quad 2280 1/4 scale pan is evil lol j/k

[k_sw31]

DualBL I wanna see a 24 cells dual 5300 setup in that thing!
;)

[DualBL]

k_sw31, me to:eek: :p

I'm actually thinking about making it dual once it get's here...
prolly only run 10 cells on it tho

I'm gonna have to say that since the RRH guys have been real nice to me, I'll do them a favor...

don't run the 5300 on 12 cells!
I've been lucky so far, and Donnie told me he never recomends over 8 on the 5300 and 10 on the 4200

Donnie doesn't want to be having to replace controllers from running 12 cells, and blowing, cause that is close to the motor's limit..
so from now on, I'll be running 10 max per motor.
consider yourself warned!:rolleyes: ;)

[Simen123]

Do you have pictures of your RS4 Soya v1.1? Would be cool to see it. I hope to get my Schulze 12.97fe soon, so that I can start running my Hacker 6T on the track :D

[PatrickJ]

Has anyone tried the basic xl? I heard the 5000 pull a lot of amps.

[DualBL]

PCNutz on maxxtraxx runs dual 4200 XL's in his E;)

[crono man]

guys sorry to go out of topic here but which basher off-road vehicule(aside from e-maxx) would you recommend for bmx style jumps and that can take BL power without the tranny exploding?

im starting to look towards nitro but when i go bashing with my friend he spends half his time adjusting his carb while im having fun....ill go the nitro only if their are really good arguments for it

p.s forgot to mention that there is no electrical power source were i bash if that changes anything to your advice

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by Simen123
Do you have pictures of your RS4 Soya v1.1? Would be cool to see it.

Sure. Here it is without the batts. I need CVD's, cuz I broke 3 dogbones:(

[k_sw31]

If any rc car earns the designation of frankenstein, that one does!

Nice work! :p

[anothermbdusted]

ok i got my cvds for the center and the front and rear and the diffs and the sm idler gears and the double slipper what else on a emaxx do i need to do to handle the power of a bl system?
also i want to be able to control it still something around the same speed as a paris picco xp-21 would be nice....thats what i use to have...and i will only run a max of 14 cells prefer 12 cells or less if possible

[DualBL]

talk to Outkast over at the maxxtraxx boards...
he's going to get a complete tranny upgrade kit made by OTB for a bunch of people...

Crono, get a 1/8 buggy w/ BL:p

[Simen123]

Soya v1.1: :D :D

Cronoman: If you have the resources you could do like Mr.Constructor (with his Kyosho nitro ST i believe)and take a nitro truck chassis, and "convert" it into electric. I think that would take away tranny problems. But I believe most trannies can handle a BL motor just fine, as long as you don`t run a big motor on many cells..

[crono man]

Originally posted by DualBL

Crono, get a 1/8 buggy w/ BL:p

if i ever win the lottery that would be my dream rc project:D

[DualBL]

well, if you already have the electrics, you can make a 1/8 for just under $300...

[Simen123]

costs 129.95$ at www.stormerhobbies.com :
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/pics/ofn00003.jpg
:)

[segrito863]

What would be a good motor choice for the Mugen XR 1/8 buggy? I plan to put brushless in one, but dont know what motor. I am thinking of the Hacker master competition esc with the hacker b50 5l. Do you guys think this motor and esc is a good choice?

I will be running 8 cell, 9 cell, and 10 cell 3000HV batteries.

Matt

[DualBL]

like I said on maxxtraxx, I'd go 1930/7 or 1940/5
or a b50 xl something.

[JohnSheridan]

Just got back from racing after a 4 year break.
Had the Modeltech BL in my Cat3K went to racing to a rather far out racing club (theres off-road for you) all my local off-road clubs are dead :mad: .. Well anyways, racing as usual here in the UK is your typical outdoor grass and yes it did rain through mid qualifying rounds as the typicalness of what you would expect racing in england. So where was i, ah yes racing, ok with respect to the performance of the Modeltech BL ill first start off with its finner points. Its Fast, maybe comparable to a good 10turn motor and yes the no-maintenance was handy, just as well cuz i spent most of the day assisting my fellow racer with his brushed motors (skimming and resoldering brushes).

So you'd think i wouldnt have anything to complain about (apart from the weather and racing on grass) well not quite.
The modeltech BL is absolutely YUKK to use for racing, ohh yeah i will easily have for breakfast the brushed motor guys on the straight but boy o boy was it nasty when you go through the infield. Soon as you lay off the power (neutral) the drag brakes would just automatically come on and get the car to a complete halt. Another thing got me so frustrated was the major cogging, trying to come of a corner after just stopping was a pain, i would spend something like 2-3 seconds just trying to get the car moving forward again..Surely it cant get any worse than this well try again, as soon it starts moving again its like WHOOOSH!!.. at this point i just thought to myself, well so much for trying to give BL a rather good impression it was actually a rather tedious experience.
I shall not be racing that modeltech or any other sensorless system again from anyone.. Sensorless doesnt do this technology any justice...Fine if your a basher who just loves those straight line speeds then by all means i would say go for it but for expert racers if you thought racing just got borring because your winning A finals consistantly :p and want something of a challenge (heheh) by all means try the sensorless BL's. Sensorless BL are beasts. My final thoughts?...For racing, I hate them!!! :p

[Simen123]

Good review :)

I believe the systems Modeltech sold were older Schulze/hacker units, so maybe the newer Schulze esc`s are smoother(I just ordered a Schulze 12.97 esc by the way.. They have also come out with a new esc that has a case, instead of heatshrink, which is supposed to be perfect for cars, with no cogging). Was it impossible to adjust the drag-brake on the esc/the transmitter?

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by k_sw31
If any rc car earns the designation of frankenstein, that one does!

Nice work! :p

Thanks, whatever works, right? :p

[JohnSheridan]

Originally posted by Simen123
Good review :)

I believe the systems Modeltech sold were older Schulze/hacker units, so maybe the newer Schulze esc`s are smoother(I just ordered a Schulze 12.97 esc by the way.. They have also come out with a new esc that has a case, instead of heatshrink, which is supposed to be perfect for cars, with no cogging). Was it impossible to adjust the drag-brake on the esc/the transmitter?


Yeah i tried adjusting things on my very tunable KO Radio even though the instructions more or less said to leave things on default settings so yeah off course i was racing and i wanted to do well with the system but just couldnt do anything much to improve things, or maybe im just plain inexperienced in this field :confused: ..

But ive yet to be convinced by the sensorless BL..i really cant see it happening yet or maybe never..
I cant wait to get my hands on the Novak BL...The Modeltech was somewhat an anti climax, going from what i been hearing about the Novak system its seems pretty good..I will move to a more conclusive opinion when i get my hands on it. Last thing i want is another anti climax but i am more upbeat about the Novak given the things and reviews i been hearing about it.

Ohh and one more point id like to go over is what i said in my own forum named..
"Make BL more legal guys"
In there i said something about Novak calling onto Modeltechs help to try and perfect their system, Although i did say its a rumour, it can somewhat be misinterpreted as the truth but not really owning up to the fact that i meant it.So i move that motion to be absolutely fictional and was greatly misinformed. I been contacted from someone who has been keeping an eye on these forums about the BL's and kindly told me otherwise.

I am shall be more careful of what i say in these threads and take some things of what people are saying with a pinch of salt.
To the person who kindly contacted me and telling me some home truths i thank you for doing so.
To Novak as a whole , My Sincere Apologies

[DualBL]

ok, I'm getting VERY mad...
people say they're running fine with composite cvd's in their TC3...

i just bent both Shiny STEEL CVD's at about 70 degree angles...

you people honestly think it's worth it for me to try composite when steel is giving in under the power/my driving style:confused:

[Simen123]

The shiny cvd`s are the strongest ones made by MIP. I used them when I ran my TC3 with a 12T before, and the only time I bent them, was when I hit the boards at full speed with a one-way. The composite cvd`s just broke.. Maybe someone makes titanium drive axles for it?

[BigBobDeBlob]

how are u guys doing this to your cvd's? my damn e-maxx's cvd's run perfectly, no matter the torture i put them through...which is alot more than what a lil tourer could do...

[BJMFH]

Originally posted by DualBL
ok, I'm getting VERY mad...
people say they're running fine with composite cvd's in their TC3...

i just bent both Shiny STEEL CVD's at about 70 degree angles...

you people honestly think it's worth it for me to try composite when steel is giving in under the power/my driving style:confused:

I'm still using the blue aluminum cvds that came with my FT TC3. I've broken just about every other part on the car, but the cvds have held up. The car is being powered by a 5300. I bash in very bumpy parking lots and have never broken or bent a cvd. Where are you running your TC3?

[DualBL]

maybe it's the jumping it 20 feet into my yard?:o

dunno, but I'm guessing it all's because of my spool =\

cool thing about the peugeot body and SNR tires is that if it's on it's side, I can WOT it, and it'll flip back onto tires:p

[k_sw31]

Actually the composite cvds might not break because the light weight may allow them to spin easier, its wort a try.

But chances are, its your spool thats killin em. :)

[DualBL]

1 more run = 1 more *snap*
:mad:

[Mr. Constructor]

Dual BL:

Have you ever looked on the GPMRACING.COM Page ??

They where producing some Titanium parts for the MT section, maybe also for sedans ??

Crono Man (and any other guy that has a 8th Buggy in built or ready)

show your plans, or your tries, I ´ve got a new idea on how do plant a 6 times more powerful BL than a B50 in these 8th class (maybe a MBX 5 RR or a Kanai 2 ??)
wich will be able to drive on 12 cells again.

It´s good to see that these Idea is growing in many people, maybe we have to do the next step, make our own race class only for 8th bl HANDMADE construction, later we could go for industrial made ones, (if the industrie produces them ever . . .)

See ya

(take a look in the BL Pic forum, i will post a pic of a totally new drive-method for the MAXX !!)

[BL10T]

I just registered at the forum after being a lon-time lurker. I have been into RC since the early days. My first real RC was a MRC/Tamiya Lamborgini Countach LP500s Competition Special if anyone remembers those. I now have an RC10t, a Composite Craft RC10LSS, two Tamiya TA02 sedans, and a FT TC3.

I decided to put my brushless setup, a Master Car Comp/Lehner 5300 in the RC10T to try it out. So far so good. It seems to go pretty fast, even with 10 year old red Sanyo SCRs.

A couple of quick ?s. How many cells can I safely run with this setup without risking my investment? Also, can the MC Comp controller be used like the Sport version on 12 cells in an EMAXX with a big XL-type motor.

Great thread, guys, and nice projects, especially the home-builts.

Here's a photo of my BL car.

Jonathan

[DualBL]

Donnie from RRH told me he doesn't recomend more than 8 cells on the 5300
but you CAN run up to 10, but it'll run hotter, and be right at the limit..

i've ran a few runs on 12, and havn't fried it yet, but I'm sticking w/ 6 for now, until my hyper project is done ;)

[DualBL]

it's usual...

but, they do send out as soon as they get em.
they're not holding it, just to make you mad.

demand is high, and stock is low.

email me your info, and next time I call Donnie, I'll ask bout you
dualbl@sbcglobal.net

[BJMFH]

Originally posted by DualBL
it's usual...

but, they do send out as soon as they get em.
they're not holding it, just to make you mad.

demand is high, and stock is low.

email me your info, and next time I call Donnie, I'll ask bout you
dualbl@sbcglobal.net

Thank you for the generous offer. I figure if this is the manner in which they conduct business, then I might as well just wait. Calling Rum Rummers won't get me my motor any faster. Thanks anyways though.

And no, I'm not egocentric enough to think that Rum Rummers would waste time and energy on upsetting little old me. I'm simply not that important.

[Drayken S4S]

which of these two motors on the cell count, do you think will draw less amps, run cooler, and be easier on the controller.

12s on 12cells= about 40,000rpms
7L on 11cells= about 41,700rpms

[Mr. Constructor]

To Drayken S4S:

I would highly recomment the use of the L version, because you have more torque !! and the rpm will be almost the same than the smaller one, I ´ve tested a lot of Motors now, and I really could say that torque (in this case the lenght of the housing) is everything, the rest doesn´t differ that much, the Amp draw is higher OK, but you will have a smoother Motor with any esc, due to the fact that the motor does not have to rev up that much, to reach good power.
So cogging is limited to a minimum the Motor feels "easier" on the throttle and has more ground power.

Choose the 7 L (or maybe go to the 8 or 9 when using 12 cells (its easier with 12 cells, because they´re two 6 packs)
it´s the better choice, no matter in wich car you will plant it, maybe the weight is a little more, but the torque is up by 25 % that should be good !!

[Soya v1.1]

I was out driving my Maxx on 12 cells for the first time in like 3 weeks. Everything seemed fine until it stopped suddenly. I walked over to it, and everything was smoking. ESC and batteries. I was like oh SH**, so I quickly unplugged everything. I plugged 6 cells back in, it smoked a little bit more, and then started working. But it only has about half the power it usually does. But it still works. I'm not in the mood to send it in for repairs, so what should I do?

[RAYMAN1OO7]

go to www.niftech.com , the guy is located in mentor ohio, about 45min from me, he makes very high quality stuff for associated and losi vehicles, you know whats my favorite? his titanium cvd's

[BJMFH1.01]

Rum Runners finally came through; I received my 1920/5 today! I guess they were out of stock, had to order them from Germany or something. I hooked this thing up to my TC3 and it tears things up! It's much faster than my 5300, even when powered by 6 cells. I can't wait to try it out with 12 cells! I want to hit at least 80 mph!

Oh, by the way mods, your little ban on my old account was quite cute. ;) I can produce IP addresses and different email accounts like it's cool. But, since I'm such a nice guy, I'll behave myself this time. :p

[krisI.925]

Originally posted by Soya v1.1
I was out driving my Maxx on 12 cells for the first time in like 3 weeks. Everything seemed fine until it stopped suddenly. I walked over to it, and everything was smoking. ESC and batteries. I was like oh SH**, so I quickly unplugged everything. I plugged 6 cells back in, it smoked a little bit more, and then started working. But it only has about half the power it usually does. But it still works. I'm not in the mood to send it in for repairs, so what should I do?

a very similar insodent happened to me but with my TXT-1 and my batteries werent smoking. I just tore the stock shrink wrap off my ESC and bolted on a heat sink then re-shrinked it. And ran it for a month or so until it fried for good.

What you have done is blown some of the FETs. If the FETs on the front bored are fried then you can maybe have it repaired but it will cost a lot of time and money. If they are on the back of the bored then you are screwed and will need to buy another speed controller after you fry the rest of it. I pretty much completely turned my ESC into a heaping mass of carbon by running it till it caut fire. But RRH gave me a great deal on a new 9918 ESC. So im waiting for that to arrive. It should handle my new batts just fine. No I just got the drive train to worry about.

[RCmaniac324]

Holy living cr@p!!! I just got my BL truck running again yesterday after a long period of inoperability due to repairs needed and a new body being in the works. :D :p Anyway, I also attached a mini computer fan to my controller (An old-version Warrior 7018 w/ Heatsink) b/c it got a little too warm for my liking during some brutal high speed runs.

When I installed the new gears in my tranny to replace the ones I mangled (:D :p ), I charged up my relatively-newly made 8-cell pack to test out the mini fan to see if it worked. When I started it up, I noticed the instant extra tug the setup had with the extra two cells... so I proceeded at low speeds to the end of my street and turned it around for a speed run. When I let it loose...d@mn this thing flew!!! I had to hit the brakes to keep it from flying out into the intersecting street...and It hadn't topped out yet. :D :p

So I took it to a longer street and let it all run out, and I swear this thin musta been hittin 50 easy, and I can still gear up on it b/c the fan keeps the controller nice and cool, like it hadn't been run at all. :D :p

Now I'm just waitin for a dry day here so I can try that gearing up idea...:p

[mj_bandit]

Hey, I want to put a BL system in my Bandit. I want to go extremely fast. But with alot of torque. I don't want to spend over 250$ between the ESC,and Motor combined. What would be a good set up for me? Thanks.:D

[crono man]

Originally posted by krisI.925
a very similar insodent happened to me but with my TXT-1 and my batteries werent smoking. I just tore the stock shrink wrap off my ESC and bolted on a heat sink then re-shrinked it. And ran it for a month or so until it fried for good.

What you have done is blown some of the FETs. If the FETs on the front bored are fried then you can maybe have it repaired but it will cost a lot of time and money. If they are on the back of the bored then you are screwed and will need to buy another speed controller after you fry the rest of it. I pretty much completely turned my ESC into a heaping mass of carbon by running it till it caut fire. But RRH gave me a great deal on a new 9918 ESC. So im waiting for that to arrive. It should handle my new batts just fine. No I just got the drive train to worry about.

seems alot of guys are frying their bl controllers is it abuse?or bad controller quality?

[DualBL]

well, from what I've heard...

Schulze had a entire batch of controllers that went up in smoke, because of a weak link on the controller, but that has been fixed.

hackers Master Comp and Sport havn't been out that long, and there have only been a few of them that have fried, but should get better rather than worse.

Lehner I know from talking to Donnie of RRH, have had mostly abuse problems.
about 1/75 that get returned to them are because of flaws in construction, all the rest are because of abuse (too may cells, water, cracked PCB board)...

mj_bandit, lehner 4200 and lehner Warrior 7018 controller...

or for a more reserved driver (and more controlability) the Novak SS

[mj_bandit]

How come the Lehner System will let you hook up to 14 cells, and the novak will only let you go up to 7? Is the Novak SS setup better than the Lehner Setup you showed me? which one will go faster? I want to go FAST. Thanks.:D :D :D Would my Bandit FLY with either set up? thanks.

[DualBL]

the SS's controller isn't made for more than 7 cells.

the 7018 is 70amps, and 18 cell limit.

basicly, you can use as many cells as the motor allows.

for SPEED, I'd go with a 5300 motor.
you could use up to 10 cells with that, cause that's 5300rpm/v

so 5300x1.2x10 = roughly 65,000rpm which is the rpm limit for the Lehner Basic motors.

[mj_bandit]

I just watched a RC video of a Novak SS BL system in a pede.. I can't believe how fast that was. I also watched a BL hacker Pede. the Hacker looked a little bit faster. Is there that big of a difference. How much is a 5300 Motor? with a Controller for it? it can't be over 250$ thanks.:D

[PatrickJ]

It have boats that do over 50 mph on just 6 cells I cannot understand why the cars aren't that fast. A brushless motor propelled a boat up to 75 mph on 8 cells what is going on with the cars? A car with the same amount of power supposed to be faster than a boat. Some did close to 70 mph with a 5300 on 8 cells in a boat and the motor was not hot.

[mj_bandit]

Probably because its on water..and doesn not have to turn two wheels.. just a little propeler. But I think I'll get the NOVAK SS system for my Bandit.. it's gonna FLY.:D

[DualBL]

www.rumrunnerhobbies.com

5300/7018= about $250
;)

[mj_bandit]

Well..Its either the 5300 motor, and 7018 controller.. OR the Novak SS system??? their BOTH about the same price.. I want it to have Torque.. and REALLY good high end. I can't decide which one.

[Mr. Constructor]

To
Soya v1.1:

same as krisl 925 said, the fets are bad, be careful NOT to over power your Motor or esc (this is done easily in a truck of that size !!

the system: Motor-Car-ESC-Batterys-other speed extra parts, has to fit like a pinion does to a spur gear, each single Item has to be the best fitting one, then you get wasome pwerformance, AND good reliabality !!

To
crono man:

You suggested it, as I´ve heard (not only in this board) mostguys use the BL Systems to overpower their Cars (or trucks ) and then wondering what has happened, they should be aware of what they´re doing, because things are expencive anyway, I do NOT have any ESC or Motor fried due to overpower, if the system is geared and dialed in right, with tuning parts on the nessesary marks, should be no problem (the only fault, was my mounting fault, no problem to get rid of that)

To
mj_bandit:

Go with the 7018 and the 4200 (or the 5300 ) series for real torque AND Speed, if you wanna have the best (and cheapiest) Torque, then go with a XL Series from the basic line.
(these Systems are the most used ones, due to their really good speed and power delivery (will suit most uses)
Only for special uses, you have to have special solutions !!

See ya

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by PatrickJ
It have boats that do over 50 mph on just 6 cells I cannot understand why the cars aren't that fast. A brushless motor propelled a boat up to 75 mph on 8 cells what is going on with the cars? A car with the same amount of power supposed to be faster than a boat. Some did close to 70 mph with a 5300 on 8 cells in a boat and the motor was not hot.

Boats go faster under brushless power because once they get up to a certain speed there is a pocket of air under the boat, so very little of the boat is in the water, making very little drag, coupling the fact that they are direct drive, and there only a tiny prop to turn, it only makes sense. :)


Mj_bandit, although you would get more power from the lehner setup, I would recommend the novak brushless.

I say this for serveral reasons, the bandit will not be able to take the awesome torque offered by the lehner to well, chances are it will spin out a lot and blow up the drivetrain one way or another.

With the novak it will have a little less power, but chances are the bandit will still have a little trouble, but you will save some money so you can use that money to purchase drivetrain upgrades, and some higher traction tires. Also, with the different programs in the novak esc you can limit the power if you are having trouble with at the start, and throttle control will be much better!

my 2 cents

[PatrickJ]

The boats pull more amps than the cars. The boats are harder to push than the cars I know because I have a boat and a car but I am more into boats.

[DualBL]

5300 + 12 cells + Parma Pan car + locked diff + FAT tires = OMFG!

just sick.
only one run, and that wasn't all that long....
getting lots of interference in radio:(

but, going less than 1/2 speed (roughly 30mph) if I go WOT, if flips:D

[yf22k]

Is it ok to run the 5300 with 12 cells?

[k_sw31]

Your not supposed to. :p

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by PatrickJ
The boats are harder to push than the cars I know because I have a boat and a car but I am more into boats.

At lower speeds yes a boat is harder to push, but as I said, a pocket of air forms under the boat at high speeds allowing the boat to reach higher speeds that most cars.

[DualBL]

tc3.1dumb.com got boring so I moved on...
(if anyone remembers, that was the Tc3 specific site...)

well, I feel I've progressed a bit.

since I found out that Donnie of RRH had purchased www.brushless.org, and hasn't had time to do anything with it yet, I decieded like a week ago, that I'd start on it, and send it to him, so if he liked it, all he had to do was upload it. since what's the use of a domain name going to waste:rolleyes: ;)

www.brushless.net/~tc3punk/bl/index.htm

that's the start.
just figured out how to get that menu to work.
if there's any sites for brushless that I'm missing, please email me.

i havn't got videos and pictures and such on it yet, cause that takes space, and i don't have space yet.

remember, this is for brushless.org, but i don't own it.
I'm gonna send Donnie the files when I'm all done, and see if he'll use em till he can make his own.

or maybe I'm just WAY too bored:p

[DualBL]

i got 300mb now on a new server...

http://users3.ev1.net/~mymo/

I can now start adding more pictures and such (videos:p )

then after it's progressed a bit, I'll contact donnie to see about getting brushless.org domain routed to that site, so it's easy for everyone to find.

also got to upload a video that I had edited a while ago...
njoi
Weakmaxx (http://users3.ev1.net/~mymo/brushless/weak.mpg)
:cool:

[DualBL]

ok, instead of trying to get brushless.org...

I just subdomain'd it so it can now be found at:

www.brushless.owns.it

njoi:)

[k_sw31]

I take it we have some time on our hands today. :p

[DualBL]

you are correct.

the brushless.owns.it forums are up and functional (hopefully)
go and make some posts there!
and spread the word

also, please let me know if something doesn't work right (myikonboard permissions are VERY tedious to set:( )

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by Mr. Constructor
[B]To
Soya v1.1:

same as krisl 925 said, the fets are bad, be careful NOT to over power your Motor or esc (this is done easily in a truck of that size !!B]

Looks like I'm in the market for another BL ESC:(

[DualBL]

Crono man, thnx for the link thing ;)
fixed now...

and please don't let me know about forum problems...
I'll need a good 24 hours before they're working 100% lol
;)

[crono man]

Originally posted by DualBL
Crono man, thnx for the link thing ;)
fixed now...

and please don't let me know about forum problems...
I'll need a good 24 hours before they're working 100% lol
;)

no problemo:)

[mj_bandit]

Hey.. I need some QUICK help. My Stampede is acting up. I replaced the Spur gear because my friend said he Stripped it. So then he ran is for ahwhile, ran just fine. He brought it back to me, and the Thing wont even move. The Pinion just sits there SPINNING on the Spur. I've re-adjusted it too. I've tried it all??? I don't get it. It just spins, and once and a while will get a little bit of traction and go about half a foot, but it makes that LOUD grinding, stripping noise, I don't understand WHY it wont GO. I pushed the Pinion gear as far as it would go into the Spur for good grip, still nothing.:mad: :mad: :mad: I just got a new BATT today too. I was looking SO forward to driving it, now THIS. Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr:mad:

[tl01boi]

tighten up your slipper clutch;)

[mj_bandit]

I dont have a Slipper Clutch. Its got the Adapter on the Spur Gear. Its pretty old. How do I get the PLASTIC white outyokes or whatever off from the Gear Box? I need to take that apart and look at it.:mad:

[DualBL]

if my memory serves me correctly...

to take the out drive yokes off, there should be a set screw holding them on.

[mj_bandit]

Yea, I just noticed that, BUT theres them little Weird Pins that got nothing on them.. HOW do I pop them off to get at the SET screw????????:(:( Its like them weird things you know? Holding the drive axle in.:mad:

[mj_bandit]

Hey.. I found how to take them things out. I broke a Platic Out Yoke taking the *** thing out. Turns out My IDLER gear was Stripped bad.. JUST GREAT. How much are them things? can you get metal ones so it dont happen again. What a joke taking apart the Whole truck god. Now I gotta get a NEW plastic OutYoke, and Idler Gear. Unless I take it to like HS and have them do it all, but Im sure they would charge alot? Thanks.:mad:

[DualBL]

i got a delema too =\
so I go and sort out all my brushless videos from my other RC vids (roughly 12gb worth)

turns out I have 429mb of Brushless vids.
:(
bummer that I only have 300mb of web space...

so, if anyone wants to donate like 200mb of webspace, I'll be happy:p :rolleyes:

[unit_4tec]

novak ss powered tycO! MUAHHAHA
racing rat that is LOL

lol go here first lolol

http://members.cox.net/donkay_2/IMG_5053%20(WinCE).JPG

copy and paste in url>>> http://members.cox.net/donkay_2/bl%20%20racing%20rat%20at%20the%20track!!!!!%20(Sm all).jpg

[BigBadTahoe]

so is the battery pack just drug behind? Thats crazy.

[k_sw31]

Mj bandit, the output yokes are only a few bucks, and so is the idler. You can also purchase an aluminum idler for about 12$, and will last you awhile.

[SandManRacing]

DualBL.... Start your own web server on your computer. You will only be limited by your hard drive.

I done this and I have several Gb free for my web page ;)

But sorry, I don't have 300Mb to donate. I can only host a few if you want.

Bye

[DualBL]

i'd fear internet slowdown:(

[SandManRacing]

Depends of your internet connection. I have cable internet (3000kbps dl/160kbps ul) and of course I have slowdowns when someone is visiting my webpage, but it's not that bad.

That's the only way I found to share all the videos and to not give a lot of $$$ for hosting servers... Some will give you a little web space but not enough for videos.

make your choice ;)

Bye

[Bob Ebophalus]

ive done it! i read all of the pages of theis entire thread. :eek: it was fun and only took me a couple days on and off. i still wanna put a bl in my micro, although it would be uncontrollable:rolleyes:

[Bob Ebophalus]

back on topic. if i put a novak ss in my pede, would the tranny take it if i got a alum idler and steel yokes? i would also get 5x11 carriers

[k_sw31]

I heard of someone doing an SS in his pede. He had an aluminum idler and mip cvds.

It ran great, except he kept snapping cvd bones. Then he tried steel yokes and stock axles, those twisted.

As far as I know he just gave up, he couldn't find a reliable drive shaft.

But, its up to you if you want to try it, I'd imagine you'd be fine if you stayed in "sportsman" mode. :)

[DualBL]

there's 3 brushless micro vids that can be found at www.one18th.com
;)

[crono man]

Originally posted by k_sw31
I heard of someone doing an SS in his pede. He had an aluminum idler and mip cvds.

It ran great, except he kept snapping cvd bones. Then he tried steel yokes and stock axles, those twisted.

As far as I know he just gave up, he couldn't find a reliable drive shaft.

But, its up to you if you want to try it, I'd imagine you'd be fine if you stayed in "sportsman" mode. :)

hehehe the sportsman on my novak is as powerful as unlimited mode:D

[BJMFH1.01]

I have a question for 19 series motor owners. I've been drilling larger holes in my 48 pitch pinion gears so that they'll fit. I've been to a couple of hobby shops looking for pinion gears with bigger holes. I came up empty. My problem is, during the drilling process I usually crack the pinion gear. After a couple of runs, they break. Do they sell pinion gears that will fit the shaft on 19 series motor?

I noticed that they sell 32 pitch pinion gears that will fit at Fine Design. Can I use a 32 pitch pinion gear with a 48 pitch spur gear? I finally got this great motor and I want to use it to it's full potential! Thanks.

[k_sw31]

The 32 pitch gears will definatly not work with 48 pitch spurs. What you could do is find a 32 pitch spur that would work with the proper gear ratios and size.

Other wise I believe you are outta luck...but who knows...

[DualBL]

check out the brushless guys at maxxtraxx.

I know they get their hands on some weird stuff (M1 pitch pinion gears:) )

[BJMFH1.01]

Thanks guys! I tried the Maxxtraxx site, but I guess it's down right now or something. I'll try to find a 32 pitch spur gear that will fit a TC3, if such a thing even exists.

In the meantime, I guess I'll be a drilling pinion gear idiot. My car is insanely fast with the 1920/5!

[Simen123]

I can`t reach the maxxtraxx site either, but if you find a link to their forum, you can go there :) (there is a link at www.brushless.owns.it)

[Simen123]

by the way, I just read this at the "RC revolution"-forum:
....there is a new Competition controller that is coming out really soon. It will only run 4-10 cell on the C40 style motors. It will also be a smaller than the Competition controller that we are running now.

Sounds great to me :D

(edit: what I quoted was posted by Josh from Hackerbrushless.com at the forum)

[chasmo]

BJMHF... Try one of kimbrough's pinions they are plastic and then have a metal ring that goes around them to screw the set screw in.

[anothermbdusted]

try this link to get to maxxtraxx forums http://216.22.104.127/cgi-bin/forums/ikonboard.cgi?

[Mr. Constructor]

Maybe you should try this out first.

By a set of pinions, then go to a real Car workstation/repair or a self doing repair station or even a small metall manufacturer found in your yellow pages.
they could easily grind them up on their lathe machine, then they´re perfectly true, not the self drilled ones, they will EVER be unture round, so they will easily WORN out the Ball bearings at your Motor, this will be very expencive.
Go to such a Shop/Dealer and ask them for the lathe possibility to grind them to 4mm H 7 (if (this is the exact technical measurement for these holes in the motor, theyre trued to a thousandTH mm !! (or maybe someone in your neighbourhood has a lathe machine to help you out, this may cost only a few bucks and is much better than doing UNTRUE selfdrillings !!

AND one thing at last:

when buying the next time a lehner Motor (this is obsolente for ALL Motors) ask for the 3.17mm axle (this is the used 1/8 inch that all pinions have) this will NOT cost you anything !!

they should only Ship these Motors, but maybe they wanna sell "their own " pinions.

They will exactly do the same i described, but for much more money !!

Maybe this was helpful, DO NOT use self drilled pinions, they will easily break your ball bearing in the motors front (screw in ) plate the high rpm and the little untrue movement will give the rest to your motor !!

See ya !!

(you´ll be a lucky man, if you have your OWN lathe machine !!)

this is the best thing you could do if you wanna built your own tech parts !!

[Mr. Constructor]

Maybe if everything is not functioning, tell me that, i could easily grind some set of pinions for you (in 48 dp or 32 dp, or whatever you want) and send them to you, but this might not be the cheapest way, due to the tax and the international money wire transfer, but maybe the last one, I will grind them within the parameters said above, this offer goes to everone with pinion problems!!
(I choose hardened steel ones for this purpose only, on extra wish, i could get alu too, but steel is much stronger and almost half the price !!

See ya !!

I anyone is interested, I´m planning on a small edition of my cars, they could be available on request with the same things i used or even your own selection, ask for details but be warned due to the postage way, this thing might be heavy in money !!
(sorry but i do not have these costs in my Hands !!

[BJMFH1.01]

Thanks for the advice guys. Yesterday I ordered some of those 4mm 32p pinion gears from Fine Design. They didn't have a really great selection, 15-21 teeth I think. But I ordered a few anyways.

I will stop using my self-drilled pinion gears. I did a pretty decent job drilling them though, they didn't spin lopsided or anything like that. They just kept breaking. I still have my 5300 so I'll play with that until the pinion gears for my 1920/5 arrive.

Mr. Constructor, if I ever want some gears larger than 21 teeth, I'll definately send you an email. Thank you so much for the offer. At some point in time, I will take you up on it.

The funny thing is, Lehner doesn't sell any 4mm pinion gears. I didn't see any at their website. Maybe boat props use the 4mm shaft. The other funny thing is, when I ordered the motor from Rum Runners, I did ask for the motor to be able to use 48p pinion gears. I didn't specifically ask for a 3.17mm shaft but being able to use 48p pinion gears is about the same thing, just in simpler terms.

Oh well, I'm still learning.

[BJMFH1.01]

Once again, I find my foot in my mouth. I just read on the Maxximizer(sp?) website that the 19 series motors, due to production issues, will now only be offered with a 4mm shaft. I guess that's just the way it is now. Let the pinion gear search continue.

[Maxx Racer 149]

Got myself a new Hacker opto sport and maxx c50 in the mail yesterday. Got it all hooked up nice. Took it out on the factory settings and it was kind of slow.
Second run and I cranked up the amp limit to 60 and it was insanely fast.
Third run I changed it to forward/brake/reverse and about 2 minutes in POOF! and that big cloud of smoke rolls out from under the body. AAARRRRGGH

450$ for 1 fast run :( :confused:

I went with hacker originally because everyone says that they have really good customer service. I guess I will be putting that to the test.

I was running a rx pack, 2 2400's at 16/72 on a very light truck.

[BJMFH1.01]

Originally posted by Maxx Racer 149
Got myself a new Hacker opto sport and maxx c50 in the mail yesterday. Got it all hooked up nice. Took it out on the factory settings and it was kind of slow.
Second run and I cranked up the amp limit to 60 and it was insanely fast.
Third run I changed it to forward/brake/reverse and about 2 minutes in POOF! and that big cloud of smoke rolls out from under the body. AAARRRRGGH

450$ for 1 fast run :( :confused:

I went with hacker originally because everyone says that they have really good customer service. I guess I will be putting that to the test.

I was running a rx pack, 2 2400's at 16/72 on a very light truck.

I'm really sorry to hear that. I have a Hacker Competition; I'm on my second unit right now. My first one fried for no discernable reason. I sent it to Hacker for repairs and they told me the speed controller fried due to poor soldering joints. My soldering joints were fine. I made the mistake of sending the speed controller to Hacker with the battery and motor plugs attached. Hacker told me the repairs weren't covered under the warranty.

When you send your speed controller back to Hacker for repairs, remove the motor and battery connectors. Send the controller back to them EXACTLY the way you received it. Clean it up and make that thing look brand new. That way they won't be able to blame the problem on your "poor soldering joints". Don't provide Hacker any loopholes that they can use to void the warranty. Hopefully you'll have better luck than I did. My repairs, which ended up just being a new speed controller, set me back 200 bucks.

I was using the 60 amp current limit with my first speed controller too, following their advice on the website. I'm not saying the current limit caused the speed controller to fry, but I'm not taking any more chances. I use mode 1 now (30 amps). Please keep us posted. I really want to hear how Hacker handles your situation.

[Maxx Racer 149]

Thanks for the advice. I will definitely remove my connectors ( I was using deans) I know my connections were fine. I think something was built wrong inside because it ran fine the first couple of runs. When I engaged reverse is when it fried.

I will keep you up to date as I find out what is going on. I hope it won't cost 200 cause I am pretty broke from buying the system in the first place. I can't afford that right now.

[DualBL]

http://users3.ev1.net/~mymo/personal/BLDragster.jpg

F34R!
:p

[mj_bandit]

Hey.. If I do the Novak BL system in my Bandit.. what all could happen to it if I didn't get CVD's for it? Because I can't find any that would fit it? Anyone help? Im gonna get a Hardened Differential gear, STEEL idler, and HOPEFULLY Cvd's, with the FM system.?:D

[Bob Ebophalus]

wehre did u find a metal diff and steel idler? custom made?

[Mr. Constructor]

To mjbandit:

go with the selected parts, then gear the Novak as a similar 10 T would be geared in this Car (anything around 12 : or more to 15:1 is OK)
then go slightly up with the teeths (ONLY one a step, because even 2 might be a too great step !!)

If the motor stays "not-so-hot-to-burn-through-the-chassis"
(say: under 90 ° CELSIUS !!)
Its all fine, then check the running times in a few other runs, it should be higher than everything before. :D
As you gear your Car right, there should not be a CVD Problem due to the not so extreme brutal power the Novak system delivers, the LMT or Hacker or similar systems have MUCH more power.

Hopefully your Car will stand this, i think: yes it will, if dialed in right !!;)

see ya

[mj_bandit]

What I meant was.. Hardened Differential Gear,and the Meal Idler:rolleyes: sorry!!!!!!

[Odddude]

are u saying that the hacker brushless is better then the novak brushless..

[k_sw31]

In terms of power, most other bl systems have much more power than the novak.

[Rustler Hustler]

Sorry to change the subject, but i just wanted to ask this hear real quick. I already made my own thread for it, but then i just noticed there is a BL forum, so i thought id try my luck. Here is goes.

Well, today i was out driven, just running on an 8 cell Ballistic 2400 pack, crusin along, then it died, and i was feeling crazy, so i strapped in 2 6 cell packs(with custom parallel connector) so i was gunna do a 12 cell speed run. I set it down in the grass, and goose the throttle, then let off. My finger was at neutral, but the truck was at full out, i quickly turned off the transmitter, and it stopped, so i reset the controller. I picked it up this time, and hit it to half throttle. It stuck there. Then i turned off the transmitter, and for some reason then it went to full throttle, ripping the glue off my freshly glued Mahser 2ks. Then after a few seconds, it turned off again.

Im not sure why it does this. It does fine on 6-8 cells(havnt tried 10)
It is a Kontronik 12 cell fwd only controller.(its the one that used to come with the Fwd only Modeltech kits) I have no clue why it is doing this, but one of these its gunna take off down the road at 50 and slam into a house or car or somthin, damaging what it hits, and im sure destroying the front end of my pede.

Does anyone know why it would be doing this? Maybe on 12 cells the BEC malfuncions and that freezes up the controller? I dont know. But it didnt do that on any of my other 12 cells runs.

Also i checked all of the "Duh, why didnt i think of that" things, like low transmitter batts, bad reciever connections, ect...

The radio is just a cheapy Futaba Magnum Sport AM, but i dont think that is the problem.

Any help would be appreciated.


Also, how do i bypass the BEC on my contoller, what wires need to be cut?

Thanks for any help

Peace,
Jordan

[Drayken S4S]

Anyone look at the C50 L and Xl numbers? Here is the link:

link to the C50 L and XL motors (http://www.aircraft-world.com/prod_datasheets/hm-C50.htm)

The Ri correspond to the B50 L and XL motors, almost exactly, but the Kv(rpm) is one turn higher for the C50 compared to the B50. You think this is a typo? I am thinking of getting a B50 10L on 16cells, but rather get the bolted can, but not sure if those numbers are correct. If I should be getting the C50 11L, or the C50 10L.

Also, you think I will be able to gear it ok? Since I will be stuck with a 72 spur.

[Mr. Constructor]

To Rustler Hustler:

Yes, seems to be your BEC system is nagging you !!
I hope you really are shure about the loss of frequency during time in a crystal ?? (they do get "damaged" in time, replace them, maybe best thing, replace the whole Am Set, Am is NOT the safest way, to use a very high power system as the BL !!

Wy do you wanna go with 12 cells, keep stuck to 8 ones, this easily is the better way, to have your BL system Running in years !!
(for 12 cell applications, everything (car,gearing, motor,ESC, electronics etc.) has to be a "team" you cannot do a 12 cell run when the system is designed for 6 cells, even if the esc will do the more Voltage !!

Check that out: does it run fine with say, 8 cells (10 cells) if yes, the speed limit or the bec is reached in the 12 cell mode, if everything is OK UNDER 12 cells, this is definately the thing !!

To Drayken S4S:

When choosing the C version in comparison to the B version (have i understood you right??) I will give the C version a try, the torque is a little less due to the smaller inner housing, but plenty enough for every car, and the Motors temp. will be a lot cooler !!

and the weight might be down a few gramms too !! ;)

The figures show that the windings are mostly comparable, but in your case, stuck to the motor that suits your needs best, THEN choose the winding for your Car/application (maybe the size is a matter too!!) or the money . . . . . . . .

little more torque: B 50 series (more torque: B 50 L or XL series)

lower weight, same dimensions than 540er: C 40 S or even L series (more torque than C 40s but same than B 50S S

See ya

[Odddude]

Originally posted by k_sw31
In terms of power, most other bl systems have much more power than the novak.

but is it still better then most brush motors?

[DualBL]

definite YES:)

[Soya v1.1]

I agree, YES:)
On a side note, I'm thinking of putting two Hacker Xl's with 12 cells on each in my E-maxx. Any thoughts?

[DualBL]

don't run it until OTB is done with their emaxx tranny...

check www.rcrevolution.com forums, for updates on the tranny...

other than that, sounds good.

what controllers? hacker master comps?

[Odddude]

Originally posted by DualBL
definite YES:)

Good.. MUWAHAH.. now i am one step closer to ruleing the world... :D :cool: :rolleyes: :p ;) :)

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by DualBL
what controllers? hacker master comps?

I was thinking Shulze 18.61, because they're relatively cheap and I like 'em.

[PatrickJ]

My warrior speed control is giving me pure problems these days. When I went brushless I thought my problems were over but I find that my cells take a lot of abuse.

[OptimaMan]

BJMFH 1.01: Hey, you got your 1920 5 turn already!! I ordered mine back in March from Rumrunners and I still haven't gotten mine. I specifically ordered the 3.17 mm (1/8 inch) shaft which they told me would take a while... but 3 freaking months and still waiting!!!! Not only that, I ordered the micro18120 from them in FEBRUARY and I'm still waiting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I finally got the 1515 motor which I never ran yet.

Simen123: sorry to hear that you killed your controller. In my xxx-S, I run the c40 6T with a 15-18 tooth pinion on 90 spur gear. That's pretty short gearing... like 2x shorter than you!!! You don't want a car that is still accelerating at the end of a long straightaway. You want it geared so it's at full speed 1/2 way along a long straightaway. For that motor comparison you've been waiting for - I've have yet to receive my Lehner 1920 5 turn from Rumrunners yet and the 1515 hasn't been even tried yet because I'm waiting for the controller too!!!!! Yes, the Schulze 12.97 fwe is super smoooth but if you overgear and it gets hot, it'll turn off momentarily in the middle of a race! I suppose that's better than things popping off and burning huh? Still, the controller is working just fine. THe other day the heatshrink got grimy so I cut it off and reheatshrinked it. Looks brand new again!

-OptimaMan... patiently waiting with Rumrunners...

[BJMFH1.01]

Originally posted by OptimaMan
BJMFH 1.01: Hey, you got your 1920 5 turn already!! I ordered mine back in March from Rumrunners and I still haven't gotten mine. I specifically ordered the 3.17 mm (1/8 inch) shaft which they told me would take a while... but 3 freaking months and still waiting!!!! Not only that, I ordered the micro18120 from them in FEBRUARY and I'm still waiting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I finally got the 1515 motor which I never ran yet.

Dude, that sounds really rough; I'll sorry to hear about that. Three months?! I'd be going nuts by now if I were you. Every second of my spare time would be devoted to harrassing Lehner until I received my order (Bart Simpson and his spy camera).

Don't feel too bad though, I'm stilling waiting to for my 4mm pinion gears to arrive. So even though I have the motor, I'm not up and running either. At least when you get the motor you won't have to worry about pinion gears.

I read on the Maxximizer website that the 19 series would no longer be sold with a 3.17mm shaft, only 4mm. I can't begin to fathom why Lehner would do this. That might be part of the reason why your motor is taking to so long. But still, 3 months? Why don't they just use one of the shafts from the Basic motors? The Basic shafts look like they're 4mm shafts that decrease to 3.17mm at the end.

The few times I did run the motor in my TC3 with homemade pinion gears (which I'm no longer doing thanks to Mr. Constructor's advice), the thing was a beast. The torque and speed were both ungodly. That motor puts out 1000 watts at only 30 amps! And at almost 6300 rpm/volt, with tall gearing I could probably touch 50 with only 6 cells. Don't get me wrong, the 5300 is still an awesome motor. But the 1920/5 is in another league altogether. In my opinion, it's the ultimate touring car motor. I just can't wait for my "real" pinion gears to arrive, then I can really test the motor!

[Mr. Constructor]

To all:

I´ve tried to get a motor for a pal of mine in sweden, they´re pretty slow, he´s waiting for over 2 Months i think, that is the normal situation, as LMT produces the Motors on request, this always takes some time, even when you´re in germany !!
Don´t be angry about that, my ESC´s are missing too, one was send the 3 rd time to me !!!
(the other 2 got lost in the post, maybe we´ll find them, or I will have 2 new esc´s till x-mas ???!?!?!?:p

As for now, in germany Hacker is much faster, the last motor i ordered (they had to built it for me) took 4 days to be delivered to me !!! (monday call, thuesday it was in my post box !!)

The ESC´s are way too exp. from Hacker, so the best combo is ESC from LMT (relatively fast available) and the Hacker Motors, fast very fast !!

You see it, it´s always the same to everyone, not really a benefit to live "nearer" to the manufacturer !!

The 3.17mm shafts are still beeing made, don´t be fooled, the guys are talking rubbish, I could order them anyway, but i think they might be getting the 4 mm easier due to the fact that they will NOT co operate with the normal pinions, I don´t know the US policy from these Dealers/Distributors, but normally the Motors are still available, but they WILL take really some months to be done !!

(by the way: they had holiday the last 3 weeks, this is not the best for fast delivery times)

[Bob Ebophalus]

NO! do not die now thread!

[Simen123]

Has anyone opened up their Hacker C40 motor? My motor has a bit of play inside(my Lehner does not), and I`ve been thinking about opening it up and putting some shims inside..
Any thoughts?
(I read in the manual that you should not open up the motor, but I believe that was for the b-series motors)

[Simen123]

Oh, I also got a reply from the guy at Hackerbrushless.com, ragarding the new hacker esc :)
He wasn`t sure when it would come out, and that they had "been working on getting a few in to test out".
He also said that it would be about 1/3 of the size (I assume 1/3 of the Car controllers, which sounds great :) ), and that it should handle 65A constantly(which is not that great..). He also said "As far as the previous controller not being very smooth, the new one should take care of that problem".

[krisI.925]

has anyone been doing buisness with rumrunnerhobbies lately. I ordered a controller like a month ago when they said they would have sent it to me by about 2 or 3 weeks ago. I email them but i get no response.

[Soya v1.1]

I open up my B50 all the time. runs like a champ:)

[PatrickJ]

The new controller rated at 65 amps should be great, plus at those kind of amps batteries can easily be distroyed. If you are running on 6 and 7 cells from 40 to 50 amps should be great. Those brushless at 40 to 50 amps efficiency will be over 80 percent which will be a lot of power.

[DualBL]

krisI, email me your name, and what you ordered...

I just called Donnie like 15 min ago...

and I'll be calling him later tonight, so I'll ask about your order.

dualbl@sbcglobal.net

[hyper-7 44]

are brushless motors any different when It comes to break in and maintenance compared to brush motors? I am not familiar with brushless but thinking of getting one.

[hyper-7 44]

Also for a Losi truck and buggy, which Hacker C40 is better, "s" or "L" type? Would it be ok to run on a LRP IPC Pro Sport esc?

[DualBL]

there is no break in with brushless motors.
I'm not sure which would be better between the S and L, but you CANNOT use a normal brushed ESC with brushless.
you need to buy a BRUSHLESS controller
http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com

[DualBL]

We do have a controller that will run 16 cells, but not very safe. This is our Master Car Sport Controller. The retailers will say that the controller will run on 16 cells because that is what it says on the side of the controller. Basically when you run 16 cells on this controller it is like running a Honda Civic at 7,000 RPM all of the time. It is always on the wicked edge of blowing up. It can be done and there are people that are out there that are running this many cells, yet there are a lot of controllers that I have seen that have been through their better days.

originally posted at rcrevolution.com by josh of hackerbrushless

[BJMFH1.01]

This is to all you people running brushless motors in TC3s.

Does your motor mount keep coming loose? Mine does about every 3rd run. I've tried using small amounts of loctite and tire glue. It holds for a little while longer but still comes loose in the end. When I was using standard brushed motors this never used to happen.

BTW, I'm using the blue aluminum motor mount. Maybe a plastic one would be better?

[DualBL]

do you have the spring screw set like the manual tells you?
i don't :p

i crank them down as hard as I can, and don't have any problems...
maybe it's the 1920's added power compared to my weak little 5300?:rolleyes:

[Maxx Racer 149]

I just had a chat with David from Aircraft world about my blown Hacker opto controller. He will have a new one in the mail today for me without even seeing the old one. He asked that I send him the blown one as soon as I can.

He sold 21 of the new style opto controllers and this is the first one that he has had any problems with. So with any luck the new one will work perfectly.

I was originaly more than a little concerned about ordering from over seas but now I would recommend these guys to anyone looking for a brushless system. They answered all of my emails right away and had the patience to answer all of my questions. They also provide a phone # with which to call them.

http://www.aircraft-world.com/

[lonepalm4]

Just wanted to give my input about Novak's new super sport BL combo. It is sweet! I used it in both my touring car and 2wd buggy, and it is fast and smooth! It is definately on par with a 10-11 turn motor. I let another experienced racer try it and he thought it was equally smooth as his brushed mod. The only problem I have experienced was a bad connection with the plug in for the rotor sensor. I wonder if this is a manufacturing design or just a fluke? I did get mine used, and maybe thats why I got such a good deal on it.? This IS the future! Anyone looking for speed with zero maint. should get brushless! Also, anyone know when Novak will be releasing their competition BL unit? It was in the catalog released with the super sport BL.
Thanks!

[hyper-7 44]

Thanks for the info on brushless motors.

[Drayken S4S]

He sold 21 of the new style opto controllers and this is the first one that he has had any problems with. So with any luck the new one will work perfectly.

That's funny, becuase I just sent them my blown opto controller last week. Yours is not the first, and I doubt mine is either.

[DualBL]

nonono wanna hear something REALLY funny?

i sent in my 5300 to RRH, cause something was grinding inside it...

Donnie just replied with this email:


Hey Nick,

Got your motor apart… looks like it was the top bearing. But the funny thing is it was fused to the armature. It must have gotten pretty hot!

Anyway.. I replaced BOTH the Armature and the Bearing. I bench tested the motor and it seems to be working fine now!

I will get it packaged up and in the mail most likely on Friday!

Thanks….

Donnie

Rum Runner Hobbies


odd part is, the motor never FELT hot at all
I could hold my finger on it all day long after running it for 20 min straight...

hrm

but, I'll tell you this: DO NOT RUN 5300 ON 12 CELLS!

lesson learned lol:rolleyes:

[kilrbzz]

Hi guys,

I want to take my E-Maxx to the next level! The T-Maxx's got tired of loosing to the E's so they have gone to 15 minute mains. Now most of the E's are overheating with sometimes multiple battery changes. A few questions and some info of what I need,

1. Whats the best combo for racing? I don't bash. I want something smooth with good brakes.

2. Is cogging something I should be concerned with for racing?

3. What kind of runtimes are possible?

4. Need a Motor and ESC that runs on the cooler side since I live in Florida.

5. Acceleration is probably more important than top end for me.

6. The only beef-ups I lack are the stronger diff cups with gears. oh and a brushless setup:D

7. My E has been built as a racer and kept as light as possible. The only stock parts left are Tranny(minus steel idler) and the EVX. I went with RPM stuff instead of aluminum along with a composite chassis, MIP CVD's and driveshafts, RRP slipper, etc,etc.

[krisI.925]

Originally posted by DualBL
krisI, email me your name, and what you ordered...

I just called Donnie like 15 min ago...

and I'll be calling him later tonight, so I'll ask about your order.

dualbl@sbcglobal.net

thanx for the offer but i got a email back from donnie today. Turns out the chairman of BK has/had throat cancer so there was a delay.

[DualBL]

kilrbzz, I'd highly suggest dual brushless...

either 2x Lehner Basic 4200 motors with Warrior 7018 controllers, or Hacker master Sport controllers.

or, 2x Hacker C50 with Hacker Master Sport controllers.

[kilrbzz]

You sure sound a little biased "DualBL":D

I was thinking of starting with one. More specifically the C50 or the B50 with the mastersport controller. I figure this would get at least 7-10 more mph top end which is plenty (just under 30 now). My main concern is runtime, braking and performance in the corners remember I'm racing only. On 12 3000's could I get close to 10 minutes on the track? And what about overheating? If I can't get much better runtime and I'm themaling in the Mains it makes no sense to go brushless. I've seen alot of sweet brushless E-Maxx' on some of the boards but none of them ever mention racing which has me abit skeptical. Thanks for the response.

[DualBL]

the reason I meanting going dual, is because of all the things you meantion.

these motors/controllers are capable of making an Emaxx do a frontflip under hard braking (got a vid of a RC7 in a maxx doing just that ;) )

with dual, you'll get more run time (but have mor charging time too:rolleyes: , you'll have more power, more braking power (if traction allows), and it'll run cooler.

these are just a few of the reasons I went dual:)

[RadicalRustler]

Who has a had a hacker controller break and warranty being "voided"?

[BJMFH1.01]

Originally posted by RadicalRustler
Who has a had a hacker controller break and warranty being "voided"?

That would be me! :mad:

I was whining about it a few months ago. Hacker tried to tell me that bad soldering joints caused the electrical current to reverse its' flow, frying the controller in the process. My soldering joints were just fine. I've been soldering rc stuff for over 10 years and this has never happened before.

Hacker charged me 200 dollars to repair my Competition. Fine Design ended up giving me a brand new one; they kept the repaired controller. The whole process took a little over a month. I really can't complain about Fine Design's customer service. The repair charge was completely out of their hands. They just acted as the middle man between myself and Hacker.

So far my second Competition has performed flawlessly. I'm being extra careful with it though. I have the current limiter set at 30 amps and I never use tall gearing.

Legally Hacker can't be held responsible for anything. If you read their warranty, it clearly states that they can change the terms of the warranty whenever they feel like it.

Why do you ask? I hope nothing bad has happened to your controller!

[kilrbzz]

Thanks DualBL!

Anybody have any feedback on the C50 for the Maxx?

I'm leaning toward the hacker compettion ESC. I've heard the sport model has a tendency to hesitate. Can't have that racing.

Also any Rx packs or configurations they recommend with the hacker esc's?

It seems every ESC these days has a warranty that is useless if the manufacturer decides so. I think you have to depend more on customer service reputation.

Thanks

[HiAmplidude]

The c50 is a great motor, but it's on the heavy side. If you're concerned about weight, you may consider that. Putting 2 of those systems in there, well....

Cogging (hesitation) can happen with any sensorless controller, particularly running "hot" wind motors or over-gearing. With the right setup, cogging can be practically eliminated. Sensored systems don't cog.

Running an Rx pack is highly recommended and should be considered "required" in the E-Maxx if you run 10 or more cells. Any Rx pack works fine. I prefer the power of a 5-cell pack myself.

[kilrbzz]

Thanks Hiamp!

Do you think the B50 would be a better fit? BTW, great site! Your reviews, speed tests, and set-ups were awesome. Its helped me in my research of brushless.

My main concern is thermaling and runtimes. I'll be racing only and against mostly T's in 15 minute heats. Don't mind one battery change pitstop (One stop is mandatory anyway)

[HiAmplidude]

Thanks. I've been a slacker lately and haven't done a lot to the site, but I do want to get more reviews done -- just need time. Thanks for checking it out!

A B50 will be lighter and just as powerful, plus you'll have more gearing options since the outer can diameter of the B50 isn't so big it's resting up against the tranny before the pinion and spur gears can even reach (which is why Hacker "requires" a 72T spur for the C50 Maxx -- not because it's a better gear ratio).

For 15 minute mains, a big concern should be heat. If you ran your system at a constant speed, it wouldn't get very hot. It's the constant changes in resistance that will really build up a lot of heat. To help reduce heat, running motors that don't need to draw high Amps. Even a B50 12s will get hot in those conditions, but that motor is getting pretty durn close to what you'll be happy with. A larger motor may even do better, but will add more weight and will benefit from more heavy cells. Just throw on some good heat sinks and you're all set.

For race day (experiment with this first), you will probably want to set the ESC's current limiter to 45 Amps, which will still give you awesome torque, but will smooth the burst out a tad and save your batteries and over-all system heat. For that matter, 30 Amp limit may be just perfect for you, but you'll have to decide that once you get it on the track.

Your truck should soon be a serious T-Maxx competitor. The rest is up to the driver.

[Hairball]

I just got my Hacker C50 + Master Car Sport controller setup and running in my E-Maxx. I'm running 3000HV packs.

Its fast, but doesn't have the power that everyone claims it does. I've got all the settings "factory set", and I've seen the articles about bumping up the current limiter to 60 amps, but I'm scared it will blow it.

Help please.

[Bob Ebophalus]

what is the limiter set at now?

[Hairball]

Whatever the factory setting is, I think its 30amps....

[HiAmplidude]

Don't just jump from 30A to 60A. Try the 45A first. Some folks find it's more than adequate and being that it's not going to dump 60A on your motor in bursts, the throttle control may actually be preferably smoother. The Amp settings shouldn't affect top-speed since the same Voltage is getting to the motor.

It's not a good idea to run "open" limit though.

The C50/Sport system is very powerful and good for around 38 MPH (real-world GPS tested) with the 18/72 recommended gearing. That's haulin' booty! If you are not getting impressive results, you may want to check a few things like tire weight, drive-train drag, proper mesh between pinion and spur gears, over-all weight of truck, wheel alignment, wheel balance, etc.

[Hairball]

This is my truck.

http://home.jps.net/~hairball/smside.jpg

The only thing I haven't upgraded yet is the diffs to the 7.5 specs. (They are in the mail. :) ) And the steering knuckles.

EXT Suspension System (SuperMaxx)
Full Super CVDs
Xtreme R/C Carbon Fiber Maxx chassis
6V Rx pack
Steel idler gears in the tranny
Robinson Racing Dual Disc slipper.
72/18 gearing
Hardcore Titanium skids front and rear
Hardcore Titanium bumpers front and rear
Stock tires (for now).

The truck has GREAT top end speed. But I feel it should be accelerating faster. Maybe thats the "cogging" effect you guys talk about?

Everyone talks about how the C50 will flip the truck on its lid from a standstill (massive wheelie action), but I can't even get a little wheelie out of it.....

Is the low COG chassis I'm running causing this?

thanks again for everyones help.

[kilrbzz]

Nice lookin truck Hairball! Not a grain of dirt on it though!

I doubt it has anything to do with your low COG. Also your truck may be a bit heavy. If you have a ton of top end maybe try a 17 or even 16t pinion. Hacker also recommends this for more runtime.

I've decided to start with a C50. Now should I get a sport model or is the competition worth the extra $

Also does anyone else make a lower motor mount? I inquired at gorillamax but you have to buy the x-brace too.

[RadicalRustler]

If you put it to 45 amps, shouldn't that give better acceleration? and try the Imex tires (the 8.5 inchers)

[HiAmplidude]

If it really is at 30A right now, pushing the limiter up to 45A will improve "punch". I don't have my manuals with me at work today, but for some reason I vaguely remember the Car Comp and Sport controllers default to "open" limit -- again, it's very possible this is not true.

I always go through my full configuration on the controllers just to be sure everything is set correctly even before the 1st run. It's particularly important on mine, because I'm running dual systems on my main truck.

Hairball, the "cogging" folks talk about is a glitching or studdering effect that happens at the moment you start to move and goes away after the ESC is done reading the motor position information through the motor wires. You'll definitely know if you are getting the cogging effect because it will seem like a momentary radio glitch. Lower gearing and sometimes a Rx battery pack can help to practically eliminate cogging symptoms.

The lower your CG, the harder it will be to wheelie, but there's plenty of power in a C50 to pull your truck up, on demand, if you have decent traction. One of my buddies has a C50 setup in an Xtreme chassis truck and has a hard time pulling wheelies on rough asphalt parking lots because of the traction, but he can get all 4 tires spinning pretty good at take-off. It's a trip. It's got a funky beat. And you can bug-out to it.

Man, that's a great looking truck you have there, hairball!

kilrbzz, the sport Opto can generally handle a few more cells than the Comp controller due to lower current passing through it. I have a pair of Comps but I do not run over 12 cells on each at any given time. And, being that it's recommended to be running at least the 60A current limiter for either one, it may make sense to save the extra bux for something else. Features are identical between the 2 -- it's just that the Comp has more FETs on the motherboard.

[Soya v1.1]

Originally posted by Hairball
Everyone talks about how the C50 will flip the truck on its lid from a standstill (massive wheelie action), but I can't even get a little wheelie out of it.....

I can't get it to wheelie either. It just scorches all 4 tires:D

[Draken]

The Hacker ESC current limiter is set to 30 amps by default. I know because I was dissapointed when I first let it rip. I have it set to unlimited now :) Lot's-o-fun, but almost undrivable (B50 8s on 12 cells).

BTW All ESCs, especialy brushless ESCs run the coolest at FULL throttle. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the current limiter on the Hackers works by holding the throttle back to achieve the seleced current limit. If anything this will make the ESC run hotter! IMHO the current limiter is only intended to aid in driveability and should be set as high as you or your drivetrain can stand :)

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Draken
BTW All ESCs, especialy brushless ESCs run the coolest at FULL throttle. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the current limiter on the Hackers works by holding the throttle back to achieve the seleced current limit. If anything this will make the ESC run hotter! IMHO the current limiter is only intended to aid in driveability and should be set as high as you or your drivetrain can stand :)

Interesting theory and all, but it seems people are blowing there ESCs at 60 amps, pretty reliably....

[Draken]

BTW All ESCs, especialy brushless ESCs run the coolest at FULL throttle.

That's not a theory, that's a fact.
Not sure about the rest of my drivel, have to ask Hacker I guess :)

[Maxx Racer 149]

Yes for sure on the 30 from the factory and also it is in forward/brake mode. (sport opto)

I was also quite unimpressed with it on the first run. I dropped to 16/72 and put it up to 60 amp limit.
Wow what a difference, I was not as interested in top speed as good torque. I think 38mph is too fast to drive a maxx unless it is just in a straight line.

One question for anyone with this setup. How do you find the temperatures? Do you use a cooling fan?

[Draken]

Depending on running conditions my temps have been between 140 f and 175f for motor and controller, thats with 12 cells, B50 8s, 12/66 gearing. Above 200 f or so the magnets in the motor will start to de-mag, I'm not sure what the temp limit is on the Hacker sport.

[HiAmplidude]

The current limiter on the Hacker is not a volume knob for throttle. The throttle stays the same. It is a limiter of the spike of Amps that go through the system. So, theoretically, you'll have the same top-speed at any of the settings (same voltage), however, in the heavy E-Maxx, you may gain a top-speed with using higher Amp limits because all the resistance of the E-Maxx at those speeds could use an extra boost of Amperage to get it there (lots o' heat).

[Drayken S4S]

Ya, the factory 30amp setting will definitely not impress anyone. Upping the limit is like night and day.

Above 200 f or so the magnets in the motor will start to de-mag, I'm not sure what the temp limit is on the Hacker sport.

Umm, I may be mistaken, but isn't that supposed to be 200 C, the mags will start to de-mag or whatever? 200 F, isn't really that hot, compared to the "warm" temps that most setups run at, the majority of the time.

[Soya v1.1]

Yes, it is Celsius. 200 F is nothing.

[Bob Ebophalus]

i thot it was 100C maybe im just mistaken?:confused: :confused:

[Hairball]

Originally posted by Drayken S4S
Ya, the factory 30amp setting will definitely not impress anyone. Upping the limit is like night and day.


Do you have one? What do you have it set at?

And I'm thinking about getting creative and mounting a fan on the ESC and maybe the motor too. Good idea?

[DualBL]

excelent idea;)

[Draken]

DOH, sorry. Yes its 200 C, had fahrenheit on the brain :o

[PatrickJ]

The neo magnets does lose some of its magnetic energy at 120 degrees celcius. Aveox new sensorless motors magnets will lose energy at 180 degrees celcius.

[Mr. Constructor]

To all:

the temp. limit of these Neodym mags is around a 110 ° Celsius, the techn. limit is around 140 degrees, but you should NOT go beyond the 110 ° C as the mags will start to de-mag !!

That is the tech site, the real site should be around 80-90 ° C in the use, if the temp. are higher, the exessive Amp draw may create a short cut between the hot wire and the rest !!

(after 120 degr. the coating on the wires will melt, then the wire is not insulated, the short cut (and death to all motors, this CANNOT be fixed safely !! don´t matter what other people say!!) is there !!

The Amp limiter is done to the amp draw of the Battery pack, the system will not use more W (Voltage x Amps ) than dialed in, this causes the system to slow the motor down if more is needed, but as for the better ESC: go with a Hacker Comp, the extra fets on the board are an extra safety for every part in your car !! (esp. the Motor and ESC itself)

[BJMFH1.01]

I just got the hookup at this hobby shop. The shop I usually go was closed for Father's Day or something. I purchased two 7 cell 2400 Sanyo packs for 20 bucks total. The price tag read 50 dollars each but there was this old guy working at the counter who couldn't see very well. The shop had an old style register too. The register didn't have a scanner; he had to punch everything in manually. The poor guy couldn't seem to get the register to work. He finally got so fed up that he announced a total price of twenty dollars. I paid and quickly left the store.

The moral of this story is, old people rule! I'm off the go have some brushless fun with my two, new, 7 cell packs!

BTW, I haven't noticed a huge difference in my TC3 from using the 30 amp limit as opposed to the 60 amp limit. Maybe the difference is more pronounced in a heavy truck compared to a light weight touring car.

[Draken]

If you don't notice a big differenct between the 30 and 60 amp limiter then gear up :D

[BJMFH1.01]

Draken, I do notice a difference in acceleration, the top speed is still about the same though.

I don't mess with tall gearing now; I'm on my fourth brushless controller. I haven't geared it higher than 23/72. I used to gear 34/72. I'm too scared to do that now.

1st: Hacker Master Sport, blew up due to me leaving batteries plugged in. It ruined the batteries, motor and car in the fire/explosion.

2nd: 4018, I refuse to use this controller; it's horrid.

3rd: Hack Master Competition, fried thanks to a current flow reverse. Hacker wouldn't honor their warranty.

4th: 2nd Hacker Master Competition, so far so good! I'm being extra careful with this thing.

[Bob Ebophalus]

well it wouldnt change top speed, since it will pull the same amount at top speed on both settings. but in acceleration, it will allow the motor to pull more amps, thus creating more power to accelerate faster. i think. :o

[Draken]

That's right bob :)

Damn BJMFH, that's just aweful. Sorry about your bad luck.

I've got 5 runs on a Hacker sport/B50 8s, 14 cells and 35/72 gearing in a TC3 with out trouble other than a nuked axle bearing (knock on wood). Current limiter is set to unlimited.
St00pid fast :D

[kilrbzz]

Hey Draken-
Doesn't the sport have a 12 cell limit?

BJM - The moral is you ripped the elder gentleman off. Was he ignorant? Perhaps, but you took advantage of that fact. There might be a reason you've blown so many ESC's. It's called Karma. Sorry to go off topic.

[DualBL]

Originally posted by DualBL
originally posted at rcrevolution.com by josh of hackerbrushless

We do have a controller that will run 16 cells, but not very safe. This is our Master Car Sport Controller. The retailers will say that the controller will run on 16 cells because that is what it says on the side of the controller. Basically when you run 16 cells on this controller it is like running a Honda Civic at 7,000 RPM all of the time. It is always on the wicked edge of blowing up. It can be done and there are people that are out there that are running this many cells, yet there are a lot of controllers that I have seen that have been through their better days.

[anothermbdusted]

man i think that is so cold that you cant stand up and tell the old man what the real price was....just like killrbz said its karma wait until your older then remember what you did...I dont mind a little knocked off cause of a sale i didnt know about or something but taking the LHS for 80$ is wrong and you wont have a lhs to shop at in the future if it keeps up...any how have fun with the new packs....

[BJMFH1.01]

Originally posted by anothermbdusted
man i think that is so cold that you cant stand up and tell the old man what the real price was....just like killrbz said its karma wait until your older then remember what you did...I dont mind a little knocked off cause of a sale i didnt know about or something but taking the LHS for 80$ is wrong and you wont have a lhs to shop at in the future if it keeps up...any how have fun with the new packs....

To killrbz and anothermbdusted, I never told the guy the packs were only tens dollars apiece. He made that price up all on his own. I think the guy didn't want to appear incompetent; he just wanted me to pay and get out to avoid further humiliation. He didn't even add tax or give me change from the twenty I gave him. The man didn't bother to put the battery packs in a bag. He never gave a me a receipt either. The whole situation was pretty weird.

I walked up to the register with every intention of paying the full price. It wasn't like I switched prices tags in the store. But, I'm not going to pass up an opportunity to save some money either.

And now to impart a few of my favorite sayings

Let him was has never sinned throw the first stone.

Judge not lest ye be judged yourself.

Take the log out of your own eye before examining your neighbor's splinter.

I hope you two gentlemen liked those. :D

[BJMFH1.01]

Fine Design is now carrying 48 pitch 4mm pinion gears! I contacted the owner, Chris, and I was able to order a full set! I will now be in possesion of 18-32 teeth 4mm pinion gears. This rules! I can't wait to perform some 12 cell, 32/72, 1920/5 speed runs in my TC3! I will break the land speed record! :D

[RadicalRustler]

Go for it. You might need a speeeed gun for it though

[litegide]

Hi guys, don't know a whole lot about brushless motors or even rc cars for that matter, although recently built two rc10's - a B4 and a T3. what i do know is that motors are allot of upkeep.

I want a fast motor w/reverse for my t3 for just racing around the street and stuff - no formal racing at this point.

Anyway, I hope it was a good choice - the Novak system should be here Friday - so I 'll install it at that time.

However, I do have a question - my Factory team T3 truck is going to have the novak in it - what size gear do I run with the brushless novak system - not sure what came with it - although I I did order a bag of 16-26 pinnion gears so I have an ok selection.

Thank you,

Phil

[k_sw31]

I think a good starting point will be around 18 teeth. You can also check novak's web site as I think they have suggested gearing charts for more popular cars. From 18 teeth you can work your way up or down, depending on if you want more torque or speed.

Have fun! :D

[crono man]

hey guys my friend wants to buy the hacker c40s 7t motor with the hacker master car comp controller as i have no experience with hacker stuff here some questions for ya


1)at 6cells with gp3300 cells will the motor cog?

2)if he puts a receiver pack will it eliminate the cogging problem?

3)will it be faster then my novak bl at 6cells?

4)at 7cells with 3300 cells will the motor still cog?

5)at 7cells are we talking some decent speeds?

[DualBL]

Swami...
it does cog, but he's been talking about running a reciever pack (or rather complaining about it)
so I recomended http://www.hobby-lobby.com/ubec.htm

he hit 60 in his pede with the c40...
check out this thread:
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=167251
and go to www.swami-rc.com to see the vids
:D

[HiAmplidude]

The C40 7s should provide more power and with its 5950 RPM/V, slightly more speed on same number of cells as the Novak. This is theoretical considering, generally, the C40 motor has quite a bit more power than the otherwise "mild" Novak SS, which is intended for intricate and controlled small car racing. I'd even put my Lehner 5300 / Schulze system up against my buddy's Novak SS in a speed race any day, and he'd be eating nut'n but dust. The C40 is a powerful motor used widely in Europe for everything from small cars to trucks (not E-Maxx size though!), hard bashing to aircraft including helicopters. You can also put more cells on the C50 7S/Car Sport system for those times you want to take your car down the street and freak yourself out at how fast it is, although either one is going to be pleasantly speedy on even just 6 cells.

However, the Novak system is much lighter and since the controller is a lot smaller, will fit in many more places than the Car Sport will. Being sensored, the Novak system is silky smooth like the Aveox and doesn't cogg. The sensorless C50 7S system runs the risk of cogging slightly, due in a large part to it's very low winds. Cogging is most easily decreased by adjusting your gearing down a tad, although running a separate Rx battery can help with that. Often folks mistake radio glitching for cogging, so be sure the wiring is clean and clear of transferring noise to the receiver. Cogging only happens at the very moment the motor begins to turn from a stop. You may not even notice it, unless you're geared high and it takes a little more work for the ESC to "read" the motor position & direction to initiate proper movement.

If you don't want your friend's car to smoke yours, you may not want to share this info' with him/her ;)

Does this answer your questions?

[crono man]

Dualbl; that pede is just nuts!!


highAmplititude:thanks for the detailed reply i think i will tell him to just get the novak im really liking mine and with 7cells the novak must really hauls!!

[PatrickJ]

These brushless motors do not need maintaining but they sure kills cells.

[k_sw31]

It seems like the high amps do tend to chip away at the stick packs, but my low IR ni-mhs in side by side config. dont seem to mind at all. :)

[Soya v1.1]

I've melted countless batts from BL:(

[Hairball]

I'm trying to find some good battery heat sinks to cure this problem. :)

[k_sw31]

What vehicle are you using?

I tend to fabricate aluminum battery straps for my cars, they draw the heat away much better than plastic. :)

[Hairball]

Highly Modified E-Maxx.

Got any pictures of the ones you make?

[k_sw31]

Sure thing,

Its fairly simple to do, all you need is a jig saw and a drill press.

The only downside is on some hard crashes the weight of the battery can bend the aluminum, but they still bend right back. :D

Also, Traxxas makes a set of battery bars for the emaxx, the look pretty cool, check 'em out: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXF70&P=7

Here is a pic pf the one I made for my T3:

[Hairball]

Groovy. I was considering these, but wasn't too happy about the small amount of surface area contact they have with the packs...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZH43&P=7

[k_sw31]

Either of those should work fine...:)

[DualBL]

omgomgomgomgomgomg

i ran my buggy on 24 cells, and made sure everything stayed cool.
kinda babied it.

but, no cogging from stop to full WOT, on pavement.

top speed I'm guessing is about 50-60mph, and I'm geared 14/72

and I lost front wd yesterday, cause a set screw came out, and was lost in the grass.
now, I just ran on 24 cells, and the rear cvd came loose in 3 min.

still much more testing to do (and need to get new servo (I'm running a futaba s3003:rolleyes: )

there's a little glitching, but once everything's mounted for good, it'll go away. right now the antenna's wraped around the rear wing.

hopefully I'll get pics up within a week (was gona have some tonight, but the camera is acting up:(
that's all for now

I feel special, cause I own the first Dual 5300 Hyper7Pro:D

[Hairball]

What kind of buggy?

[DualBL]

Hyper7Pro

i converted it:D

[DualBL]

oh yeah, I got some Dom MT3 rims, and Maxx Mulcher tires for it, so they'll let me run it with the monster trucks (for a monster truck bash thing...)

it now has 6 and 1/2 inches of artic!:eek:

[k_sw31]

Sounds awesome man!

Get some pics asap! :D

[crono man]

hey guys do yall think that a novak on 7cells in a tc3 could keep up with a nitro tc3?

if not the novak then which bl would be able to do that on 7cells?

[k_sw31]

Well it depends. If it is an RTR NTC3 with the stock single speed then probably, but say its the team version than you'll probably want a basic 5300 or greater to keep up with the 2 speed. Or you could be like BJMH and throw a 1920 in it for some crazyass speed! :D

[Hairball]

Is it normal for everything to get hot in a E-Maxx with a Hacker C50?

Everything getting hot meaning - batteries, motor, esc, wires getting a little warm, etc?

And what gearing should I be using with the SuperMaxx 7.5 diffs?

[DualBL]

no time to talk, but i was running my buggy with the maxx mulchers, and it started glitching REAL bad
so I went up to it, and felt around
touched one motor. fine.
touched other. freaked out.

look closer, and there's a gap in the can...
yep, one of the motors unscrewed it's self!!!

and then the controllers got really hot instintaniously.
gonna check if alls ok, and thread lock it back up, if it looks good (i shure do hope...):(

[BJMFH1.01]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Well it depends. If it is an RTR NTC3 with the stock single speed then probably, but say its the team version than you'll probably want a basic 5300 or greater to keep up with the 2 speed. Or you could be like BJMH and throw a 1920 in it for some crazyass speed! :D

I bent my first aluminum shaft today running my 1920/5 off 10 cells and 32/72 gearing. Thankfully, a replacement one only costs about 8 bucks.

I haven't been able to get my TC3 up to top speed yet. I simply don't have an area big enough. I can't full throttle the car at any speed; it just starts performing crazy donuts. Maybe foam tires would help; I don't know.

I was trying to impress my friends today at a school parking lot. The car reached about 50 mph and I nailed the throttle; I figured at that speed the car would be planted enough to peg the trigger. Even at that speed the car still started to spin out and perform sliding donuts. It was just nuts. A few seconds later the car stopped moving. I ran over and saw that the shaft was almost bent in half. When the shaft bent, it knocked the top three batteries off the bottom seven. I have to resolder the pack. Somehow, everything else in the car survived without a scratch. My friends were all laughing at me. They had Emaxxs so we spent the rest of the time playing around with those.

The 1920/5 in a TC3 is great for running off six cells. The car is very fast but still driveable. For anything more than 6 cells, you're going to need a racetrack. It's just too nuts. I do, however, love the crazy buzzing sound my car makes when it's overpowered!

[RCmaniac324]

Originally posted by BJMFH1.01
The 1920/5 in a TC3 is great for running off six cells. The car is very fast but still driveable. For anything more than 6 cells, you're going to need a racetrack. It's just too nuts. I do, however, love the crazy buzzing sound my car makes when it's overpowered!

Yea, don't ya love that sound??? :p And I get that sound in my truck when I run it on 8 cells w/ my Lehner 5300 motor.....wonder how sweet it would sound on 10 cells...looks like I'll have to try it this summer. :D :p

[RCmaniac324]

DualBL- Did u gear down when u tried to run the monster tires? B/c if u didn't, that would most likely b the source of your glitching problems as well as the massive heat on the controllers.....most likely, if u didn't gear down, the HUGE extra load of such monster tires over the stock buggy tires that it had no problem with probably put enough extra load on the controllers to get them very hot very fast, and the glitching that u were experiencing probably came from it repeatedly thermalling, reactivating, thermalling, reactivating, etc...........next time u try to run the monster tires, gear it down quite a bit, and if things run ok, move up one tooth on the pinions (always use the same # tooth pinion on each motor!) at a time until U find a setting that gives u the best performance (Namely: Speed :p ), but w/o heating up the electronics too much

Hope this helps......I hope for your wallet's sake that things still work for you after that :( .....But, I can't wait to see pics of this beast! :D :p

[DualBL]

i didn't gear down, becuase I didn't need to ;)

it was already at 14/72
and it still has major torque w/ the maxx mulchers, and it wasn't thermalling. everything remained warm not hot, except the 4 1500 stick packs:rolleyes:

[RCmaniac324]

Oh....I thought u had said something like the controllers got hot or sumthin...well, I made a mistake. Sorry I misunderstood....still want to see pics though :)

[mj_bandit]

Should I get the BL Novak.. or another one? Would the BL novak be fast in my Pede?:D

[crono man]

i heard that shulze latest contollers have ZERO cogging can anybody confirm this?

also anyone tried their latest u-force controller?

[PatrickJ]

I have a problem and I need advice, my basic 4200 works perfectly on land without load. My problem is when I try to use it in my boat it wouldn't work it would run slow and when I apply throttle it would stop what to do?

[yf22k]

hey crono man, I've been eyeing that same controller and am trying to gather more information on it. I also have heard there is no cogging. It can also handle brushed motors as well as brushless. I might have buy that some day.

[crono man]

schulze also has their high end car controllers mcc-eagle+ and mcc-eagle3
wonder if their anygood?

the reason im asking these question is i would like to know if sensorless is at a point were it has ZERO cogging with 6cells..

[k_sw31]

Those two right there look like they are for brushed motors only...I think...

[crono man]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Those two right there look like they are for brushed motors only...I think...

oh damn youre right ks:o

[Bob Ebophalus]

aw man i wanted the 3000th post! o well yours was more useful:o

[RadicalRustler]

instead of looking for battery heat sinks, get the computer heat sinks with the slot in the middle, and use a battery strap (aluminum helps) to hold them onto the batteries.