Brushless Motor Forum v3.0

[Simen123]

:D

I`ve soldered on the wires and it is ready to run now :D But it`s raining outside, so I`ll have to wait a while.. In my basement, it felt about the same as the 7018(with rx pack) in start-up, but much smoother on throttle control. It is also a bit smaller than the 7018.
Here are some pictures :) (sorry for low quality, they are from my mobile-phone) :
http://pic8.picturetrail.com/VOL234/1222980/2317390/28031987.jpg
http://pic8.picturetrail.com/VOL234/1222980/2317390/28031972.jpg
http://pic8.picturetrail.com/VOL234/1222980/2317390/28031966.jpg

I got some extra capacitors on the esc too(2 extra), which should prevent glitches from long battery-wires. :)

[kilrbzz]

When I first hooked it up for a run. It started to go, I stopped and then lost all throttle. I unhooked it, checked the connections and rehooked it. No problems. On my next run it did it again.
This isn't cogging correct? Seems like a short?????

I also want to help my C50 and the ESC run cooler.

I think I need a new Motor sink. The one it comes with seems next to useless. My associated ones for the Titans seem like they will break if I try to bend them to fit. Any others fit?

I was also thinking of adding a small fan or possibly using one to funnel air in somehow.

Any suggestions?

[crono man]

simen123

please keep us posted on the controller im especially curious as to its coggung(if it has some)with 6cell and without rx pack:)

[RadicalRustler]

you can take off the c50 heat sink sleeve can't you? then the associated ones might fit.

[blackd0g]

I just got in my Hacker C40 7S with a Master Competition ESC for my FT TC3. I am new to BL systems.

The wires on the motor are very stiff, and the instruction sheet says that I should not shorten the wires. Is this right? The instruction I would like to shorten the wires and solder 12 ga. Deans silicone wires for more flexibility. The wires (to the batts and to the motor) on the ESC are maybe 14 ga. or less and would also like to replace them with 12 ga. wires instead. Has anyone tried this without adverse effects? I cannot understand why I cannot shorten the wires and replace them

Also, the ESC is rated 6-10 cells (with BEC), can I use 10 cells in it without frying the motor. Has anyone ACTUALLY tried this? I tried emailing Hacker (twice) but with no reply.

Thanks. :)

[TeamMishap]

Seems the wire leads of all Hacker's stuff are stiff. My B50 is the same. The instructions say something about how the wires are tinned or something and that if you cut them, they fray. I just got mine last week and am not ready to experiment yet. I'm having too much fun! Lehner motors also had that rigid stuff too.

Heatsinks - I'm thinking about getting the Hacker B-series heatsink and taking the Dremel to it so that it will fit on my E-Maxx. If I manage to eff it up, I'm out $15. No biggy.

Master Comp - I've only used mine without BEC. Works fine with 12 cells, so far. Once I make some motor lead extensions, I'm going to try it with 6 cells and BEC on my Evader.

Anyone know where to get the gold bullet connectors, somewhere that won't charge $9.99 for S/H when they could be put in an envelope for 40 cents?

[k_sw31]

You might try calling up fine design and talk to chris, he seems to be a pretty decent guy so if you have bought from him he'll probably send you some for cheap...its worth a try. ;)

[BJMFH1.01]

Originally posted by blackd0g


Also, the ESC is rated 6-10 cells (with BEC), can I use 10 cells in it without frying the motor. Has anyone ACTUALLY tried this? I tried emailing Hacker (twice) but with no reply.

Thanks. :)

The Competition can handle 10 cells just fine while the BEC is engaged. I mostly use a RX pack when running over 6 cells, but I've run 10 cells a few times while the BEC was engaged and nothing bad happened.

[Mr. Constructor]

To blackd0g:

DO NOT CUT The wires !!!
These are the windings that came out at the end of the motor !! they´re coated with a special see thru paint, that prevents the short cut between the 3 wires inside the Motor wich are VERY close to each other (maybe 0.2 mm !!!!)

the end of these Windings comes out at the Motor then the coating is erased, then thinned, so you might not be able to rethin it when shortened !!

As they ´re Non flexible, built (or even hold it near to) in the place where the Motor should be, then carefully bend the wires to the right direction, then solder some Cons onto them, in this specific position, if not, the solder might be broken into parts if you bend it with the cons already on it (outer wire is then longer than inner wire . . . .and so on )

For the Wires on the esc: do not change them, they´re highly flexible pure 99.99 % Co2 free copper ,the best you might get !!

(and the diameter is enough for 100 A !!)

As fo the cons on the battery side, choose every gold or high end cons you want (Do NOT use anything 2nd or worse quality, they will soon be destroyed)
and for the motor use 4 mm Gold ones (if not using any LMT (excluding basic and basic XL) then use it :

Female on ESC and male on Motor,

if using both hacker and LMT 15xx or so, then use it the other direction, but be careful NOT to shorten the wires on the esc when a battery is on !!

Always insulate ALL cons with high temp shrink wrap (that one that only shrinks under the fire lighter !!)

To BJMFH1.01:

You could easily go with 12 cells, the BEC will make this for ONE normal Steering servo (not a1/4 servo !!)
But the motor has to be dialed in very good to the car, then everything is ready !!

(mine are running always without RX and does not have any big cogging (LMT Warrior) or near to nothing (Kontronik/Schulze/Hacker) and some of them even on 6 cells with a 5 T Hacker B 40 S !!

No problems, if the whole package (Car Motor, esc etc. is dialed in perfectly !!

You will have serious fun with 12 cells in a 8th buggy with a Hacker B 50 L !!!
(that thing flies!!)

By the way, have some vids ready from my BL Cars, anyone who wanna see something ??

(sorry no server downloadable yet, my server is down, and the HP itself has only 10 or 100 MB I dot know exactly !!)

(will be only 5-10 MB or so (mpeg 1), via Mail !!)

see ya !!

[blackd0g]

Mr. Constructor:

Thanks for the explanation about BL motor wires. :)

For batteries, I use WS Deans Ultra Plugs.

Which gold connectors would you recommend for BL motors ? :rolleyes:

[Mr. Constructor]

To blackd0g:

No problem for helping you out !!

as for the Cons, you should use either 4mm Gold Cons (like from Graupner (or similar depends on where you live!!)

or if you wanna have some smaller cons use the power poles (duratrax, they´re fitable in 3 side by side) or the 3.5 mm Gold Cons from Schulze (or maybe from other Manufacturers)

The deans are not that good for 3 wires, but maybe if you wann stay with them you could use them too, the resistance of all these cons is soooo loooowwww !!!
(the best ones are the power poles due to the fact that pure copper and then thick silver patina is used, the electric resistance is best reduced, the gold ones will have a slightly higher resistance, but will not go black as silve r would (the black has not any effect on the resictance but you have to clean them every 6-12 months )

Hope this helped you !!

(I´m using 3.5 mm Gold cons for the 3 wires then power poles for the battery, that works really great, best of both worlds !!

[BL10T]

Hello folks,

I just want to settle a question that has been bugging me for some time. I have a Hacker Master Competition controller and a Lehner Basic 5300. I know from earlier posts that I can run up to 10 cells or so on the controller and still use the built in BEC. No problem there.

But, how many cells can the Lehner 5300 motor really take before it gets in jeapardy? I was hoping to use 8 cells on it. I know from earlier posts Rum Runners doesn't recommend more than 7.

Secondly, would the Lehner XL 5000 motor work well with my controller and provide even more kick for my RC10T and TC3? Would it even fit in these cars?

If Cronoman is around, I went and ordered the aluminum TC3 gearboxes from RDLogics that you mentioned in the TC3 forum. I hope they are well made and fix what I think is a weakspot in the TC3--gearboxes that rub on the diff gears/bearings. I'll report when I get them. They shipped today.

Thanks in advance,

JC

[Mr. Constructor]

To BL10T:

As for the Basic 5300:

Do NOT use it with any higher than 8 cells, 8 cells is the hyper line, 7 cells is OK, it´s designed for 6 cells so 8 cell runs are OK, if everything is geared right, go a little up (2-3 teeths) on the pinion !!

And the Basic XL does provide you with a lot more torque, due to the fact that the Rotor is longer and produces more magnetic force !!
(but it will not rev. that much and might draw more amps, if geared wrong !!

To Dual BL:

I will send you the vids, in wich size (or datarate will be the best for you, everything totally uncut will be around 30 min !!!
(could be cutted easily into small pieces !!)
Give me some time for doing this, i cannot hang all the time at the forum, my wife would kill me . . . . . ;-)

Maybe the next Pics are very interesting for all of you, from left to right then down from left to right:

1.this is a screw damage due to a too long screw, DO NOT exceed the estimated screw lenght (varies with manufacturer, but nobody goes under 4mm and above, so up to 4mm should be OK in most conditions.
2. this is the same winding, but fixed for the special glue, that i will apply next day !!
3. the rotor, as you might see, the Neodymium magnets are a little brittle in the material, so DO NOT throw the entire Motor that hard !!!
(no hard landings either !!!)
(this is not a damaged one, but it clarfifes the meaning !!)
4. The endbell of a LMT 15xx series Motor (all are this way, excluding the "small" Series of Basic and basic XL
the solder points could be soldered in 2 differnt ways, to make a delta or even a star connection (this might be very helpful, if the selection was a little too brutal for the 1. wind, then solder it to the 2nd then the rpm goes DOWN by factor 1.73 and so the torque goes UP by 1.73 !!

Maybe this was a little help, i think most of us never saw a BL from the inside, esp. the very small spaces between the winding (wich might come out as a stiff cble in the Hacker Motors !!)

See ya

[Bob Ebophalus]

wow thanx mr. constructor. ive never seen inside a bl motor before. i knew how they worked, but had never actually seen one taken apart.

[RCmaniac324]

BL10T- The Lehner 5300's official limit is 8 cells (Where'd u hear 7?), while I've heard of many people running upto 12 on it with no problems. So, yes, you may run 8 cells safely.

As for the 5000XL, I don't know the amperage it draws, so I couldn't tell ya if it would work well with your controller, but if it does, then yea, it will give you much more power, due to the longer can. It would also allow you to run more cells. Yes, it will fit in the RC10Ts since the only difference is it's a little longer (it will hang out the side in the back a little more)......however, I don't know if it would fit in the TC3, b/c I've heard that some people have had problems getting the normal 5300 and their controller to fit well as it is, and with the added girth of the XL, it might not fit well.

Hope this helps. :) L8r

[BL10T]

Thanks Mr. Constructor and RCManiac.

Maybe I should stick to 7 cells for now on the 5300. Is there a motor I could run with the Hacker Master in the 10T and TC3 that would give me more power and speed? Like the Hacker brand motors? I want to use more cells. The 10T has plenty of room to spare for batteries. Who needs T4s?

I just bought a bunch of factory team and RPM parts for the 10T--blue turnbuckles, RPM arms, RR titanium top shaft, Hitec 625MG, Team shocks, PL Masher 2000s, HPI rims, and a Dahm's Spitfire low-profile body. It's hard to find bods for this thing with the shock towers in the right place (new race trucks are longer). Can I use monster truck bodies on it I wonder.

JC

[DualBL]

for the 5300, Donnie doesn't recomend more than 8 cells.

but technicaly, 9-10 cells is the limit, when it would reach 65k rpms (the limit)

bottom line, don't run 12 cells on a 5300 unless your hopeing to nuke the bearings:p

[PatrickJ]

The xl 5000 should not draw as much amps as the basic 5300 once gear the same. The xl series produce there power at high amp draws.

[TeamMishap]

Don't even fool with operating a Basic Series Lehner motor outside of listed specs! The Max RPM divided by RPM/volt DOES NOT give Max voltage. Anyone that's ever cooked one thinking this formula works and tries to return it to RRH catches a ration of crap about invalidating the warranty. This is the voice of experience (feel free to message me if you wanna hear the full saga).

To me...to say your Max RPMs are 65,000, but to say it's max voltage input is 9.6V (8 cells) is false advertising. If your cell count is limited to 8, given a 5300 rpm/v contstant, I would say Max RPMs would be 51,000ish. It's very misleading and has lead to many a blown motors, I'm sure.

[atm92484_3]

Hehe Novak SS on the way for the TC3-Rally. :cool:

[Mr. Constructor]

To BL10T:

If you wanna use up to 12 cells, maybe in a 8th conversion buggy or so, go with hacker B 50 S or L versions in various rpm/V readings (use the normal rpm of a nitro engine as a start up poiunt, then calculate 20 % on top, then see at wich winding you are with 12 cells (exs: 40000 (Nitro Motor) x 1.2 (+20 %) /(1.1(Voltage per cell under load x 12 (number of cells) = the rpm you might want, to have good power, if you want more choose the same rpm/wind in the range for the longer can !! (extra power is NEVER ever the problem i think ;-) )

If you wann use more than 12 cells, just send me a mail, my buggy runs on 18 cells, and up to 32 might not be a problem, i have a motor manufacturer on the hand who might provide you with a 1,6 kg 5000 W !!!! LRK Motor for 32 cell use !! (and everything below off course !!!

So if you are planning a very special project with more than 12 cells (this is the limit for the bec function) then feel free to mail me, i will try to help you out with some infos,tests, etc.

[BL10T]

Hi Mr. Constructor:

Thanks for replying. Well, for now, all I want to do is to use my existing equipment to the max. I want to use the pricey Hacker Master Comp/Lehner 5300 with as many cells as possible but make sure it will last for some years. As for that, it looks like 7 is totally fine and 8 is pushing it but possible with the 5300. I know folks have run it with more but I don't weant to fry it. Does anyone have the actual specs for the Lehner motors that I can refer to? I need a definitive answer on this because I will soon be building some battery packs and I need to know what to do.

However, I would be willing to purchase another motor that I could use with the Hacker controller that would allow me to run 12 cells. I would like to see what the 10T and TC3 can take. The 10T especially has plenty of room to stack batteries.

Before we go and build me a custom motor that would allow me to run more than 12 cells, could you recommend a motor for my application and controller that would work great with just 12 (with internal BEC). Any Lehners or Hacker motors?

Thanks for your assistance.

JC

PS. Non brushless query--Has anyone considered using a Novak EVX Emaxx controller and 14 cells on a touring car/race truck with motors like the Traxxas titan that are maintenance free. I would think that the vehicle would still haul.

[RCmaniac324]

BL10T- I have the same motor (The Basic 5300), however, I run mine with a Warrior 7018 controller. But, I have run my setup on 6 to 8 cells for a year and a half w/o any major problems......gotta love the "No maintennance" thing that BL motors have goin! :D :p Anyway, for definite motor specs on the Lehner motors, go here: http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/motors.htm
This page allows you to look up the specs of every Lehner motor, including the Basic 5300. As for the cell limit, 8 really isn't pushing it, but it is the official limit, and should not be passed (with 8 cells, you are still well under the Redline speed by about 12000 RPMs or so, and I have run 8 cells in brutal speed runs without any problems :) )

And as for a 12 cell motor, I have heard that Lehner 15 or 19 series motors work great, except they tend to have too much torque for their own good and rip some cars' drivetrains apart...:( I don't really know much about Hacker motors since I only have one BL system, which is Lehner......so maybe someone else can help you out with suggestions for a good hacker motor to run on thsoe 12 cells. :)

[TeamMishap]

My Hacker B50 / Master Comp takes 12 cells on an E-maxx without problems. It does get hot though. The instructions say not to let it get much above 100C/212F, I could get the actual temp later, or the mags get damaged.

The C50 Maxxs can take up to 16 depending on wind. The B50 S8 and S12 and the C40 series C50Maxx are the only ones with 3.17 mm shaft, the rest have 5mm output shafts. Aircraft-world in Japan has excellent customer service and would be happy to help you pick a motor for your application. The have great prices and $2.50 shipping too.

There are BL motors out there for ya, might take a little digging to find one that suits ya.

[Mr. Constructor]

To BL10T:

as for the choice of a Hacker Motor, you should focus on the B 40 L lineup, that will have enough power for a 10th Car, maybe even with 12 cells, the car still is driveable, but this amount of cells is usually used on the bigger 8th cars, due to the fact, that their drivetrain is better and the weight is much more, that leads to a better stable car, that could handle the speed, a normal 10th would be totally undriveable !!
(only speed up and down on the long straight, isn´t that good !!)

If you plan on a good powerplant for any 10th car, go with the LMT Basic or for up to 10 cells without any problems, use the Hacker B 40 L (not the S, might have not that much torque !!)

or for 8th go with the B 50 S or L series, i used all of them, depending on the car !!

I f you wanna use a small lightweight, much more power than a LMT Basic 5300, then go with a Hacker B40 L with around 5-7 T !!

Anything else would be overpowered or "belongs" to the 8th scale cars !!

My 8th MT with 2 Hacker B 50 8L runs excellent, it is a little too much for the 2wd car, but it is still controllable, the Kontronik Fun 500-27 in my 8th buggy really makes that fun !! (up to 50 mph no problem for the 2.7 kg Car !!)

as for my 10th Kyosho Ultima MT GP conversion, i used the Hacker B 40 5S, it is still controllable, and will not weight that much,
the Hacker B 40 5L goes into my Colt 10 (similar to the serpent 10th gas cars) and provides plenty of torque, even for the 2nd gear !!

for 10th go with Hacker B 40 S or L or the LMT Basic or Basic xl, they will offer the best power for up to 8 (LMT) or 10 cells (Hacker)

Everythin g else is just an overkill for your drivetrain and is NOT driveable !!

To TeamMishap:

If you wanna use these brutal power that is possible with these Hacker B 50 series, there has to be a 5mm shaft, a 3.17mm will break that easliy undr these heavy load conditions !!

(the MAXX should be geared not that high, to prevent the high pull/stress on the shaft !! (esp. during hard landings)

As for the shaft, you will get ALL Motors with 3.17 mm shafts, no problem, but your distributor has not the space or the money to lay around 3.17mm windings that might be lying there for 2-3 years !!

IN germany we could order every possible combination, at no extra cost, if you want the shaft stuck out 40mm out of the motor and beeing 3.17, 4, or even 5mm, no problem, just a clear word to the manufacturer, thats it !!

(but most will use the 3.17, as pinions are way easier to reach, but the best power will be transferred with the 5mm ones !! (mostly for 8th or above !!)

See ya

If anyone needs a very special Motor, just mail me, we´ll find a way, but be warned, the postage and bank fees are high !!
(i will try to help everyone out as soon as i can (hacker is really fast, lmt is way too slow even in germany !!)

[k_sw31]

I may have to throw my 5300 in my new little toy soon, it will be interesting with front wheel drive. :D

http://www.******.net/media/DSC00392.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/DSC00393.jpg

[BL10T]

k_sw31:

Which Tamiya chassis is that? A M chassis for the Minis?

JC

[crono man]

k_sw1 just invented the first and fastest tire balding machine!:D

[k_sw31]

Its an MO3L.

Thinking about brushless in this alone is scary!

Just with the stock 27turn mabuchi this thing does over 20 easily with just bearings and 6 cells. :D

Plus, I can basically spin the tires at any speed with these hard compound tires, it would be plain scary with 3 or 4 times the power! :D

On the plus side it always tracks strait. I think I'll throw in my D5 14t first to see how it takes the power. :)

[Mr. Constructor]

To k_sw31

I really could imagine a good dialed in Novak SS in there, my own mini does perform that well with a 13 T 2 motor, and the stock pinion, due to the relaxing rear axle, the whole axle reacts as a active druve part, it leans itself out in the curve to give it stability, this thing runs on railroads !!

maybe some new thing, small cars with active systems ???

[BJMFH1.01]

I finally found a huge parking lot in my area (Oakland University, for all you Detroit residents). I attracted the attention of the campus police by playing around with my TC3. I was hoping they'd come over and help me conduct my speed run. When they came over, I told them I was trying to see how fast I could get my car going. They laughed, but still didn't mind clocking my car with their radar guns. Since the parking lot wasn't perfectly level, I performed 4 speed runs and used the average as my final speed. My final speed was about 87 miles per hour.

My setup was
car: FT TC3 (stock)
batteries: 12 GP 3300 nimh 1.154
motor: 1920/5
controller: Hacker Master Competition
gearing: 32/72

I would have performed more testing with different gearing but on my fifth attempt, the shaft warped/bent destroying my receiver and breaking my battery cells apart. Somehow the controller, motor, and servo survived and still function perfectly. I was able to resolder the battery cells together, but the receiver was a lost cause. My receiver was mounted on top of my servo; when the shaft bent, it slammed down on the receiver and shattered it. My receiver was the only thing that saved my ESC, so I guess I got off pretty lucky.

I haven't gotten around to repairing my TC3, but my buddy has a RC10T3. I conviced him to let me transfer my setup into his truck. It runs great off six cells; but when we attempted a 10 cell speed run, things went bad.

We still haven't figured out how this happened. The outer torque clutch hub heated up so much that the spur gear melted onto it. The messed up thing was, we didn't have the slipper clutch that tight. The nut was flush with the end of the screw. The drivetrain functions flawlessly with the exemption of the spur gear; nothing else was damaged.

Do any of you BL T3 owners know how to prevent this? I used to own a B3 (brushless electronics) and I never ran into anything like this. We can't figure out what would cause the clutch hub to heat up so much that the spur gear would melt and yet leave everything else intact. We rebuilt the tranny, replaced the broken parts and the T3 runs fine now. We haven't tried any more 10+ cells speed runs though.

[k_sw31]

Wow, that sounds quite odd.

Just to clarify, when you say outer torque clutch hub you mean the outer slipper plate? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3446&P=7)

The only thing I could think of causing that is extreme slipper clutch slippage. The amount of heat generated by the slipping coupled with the extreme rpms of 10 cells must've really cooked it.

I have ran my T3 with a basic 5300 for awhile without worry, but thats just with six cells, pretty much nothing compared to your 1920...

[k_sw31]

Oh yeah, do you have any pics of your TC3?

I'm curious to see what the carnage looked like...

[DualBL]

some pics of my TC3 with out the bl in it. and my Hyper7Pro:
http://users3.ev1.net/~mymo/personal/thumbs/

also, I got a old vid from when I first got my emaxx.
http://users3.ev1.net/~mymo/files/emaxx.wmv
that's NOT BL, but I just had it, and havn't shown anyone, so there it is...

and if you try to tell me I don't know how to jump, I'll tell you, I can't see the landing, so lay off!
hehe

oh yeah, and that deck above the jump, is the deck that I jumped my TC3 off of around last year. but, I don't have the pic of it on my comp anymore, so I can't repost it

I also jumped my cuz's Rustler with a 5300 yesterday, and got a vid of it.

the jumps were NOT full speed, actually, I jumped it later that day, at full speed, and it landed about 6' up in the tree!
and the jump was in the same place!:eek:
I'm hopeing to get more vids before my cuz goes back to TX with his camera :rolleyes:

vid:
http://users3.ev1.net/~mymo/files/rusty1.wmv

or, if you NEED mpeg, download:
http://users3.ev1.net/~mymo/files/rusty.mpg
I do not suggest the mpg tho, cause it all together sucks (large file size, crappy color, low res, ect.)

comments/?

[BJMFH1.01]

Yeah, I'm talking about the outer slipper clutch plate. BTW, what gearing do you use in your T3? We were using 18/87 and the controller was getting pretty hot.

I wish I had a digital camera so I could show you how badly the shaft was warped. With 12 cells the shaft was spinning at over 90,000 rpms. When the shaft bent, it karate chopped my receiver into pieces! :D

I will buy a digital camera at some point, but my next purchase is going to be either a GPS system or a radar gun so I can find out speeds for myself.

[k_sw31]

I generally run 16/87 gearing with my basic, witch yeilds speeds of around 40 mph. Everything stays pretty cool and cogging is not too bad (as far as a warrior goes *WINK*), but there is definatly room to gear up, or so it seems.

DualBL: Can you get some new pics of the motor setup? You had one pic on there but it was extremley out of focus, I am curious to see how you set it up. :)

[BJMFH1.01]

I should probably gear down or stop running the truck in the grass as much. BL doesn't seem to like tall grass very well. The motor stays cool but the controller get quite hot when running in the grass. I need to find a dirt track around here!

[Mr. Constructor]

To Dual BL:

Please show more pics of the drivetrain, that would be great !!

As for the Hyper 7 , have you already tested it ??
(should be on the heavy side, with 2 Motor, 4 Packs two ESC, and all stock stuff (sorry, but alu is not the best for really hard speed runs)

the car looks as if it will be hard to drive, due to the weight and the 2 Basic (5300 i think?), these Motors are not designed for 12 cells, they might heat up very hot, do they??

(maybe one bigger motor instead??
A hacker B 50 L with 7 T would be OK for this Monster, that looks really nice, how did you manage the cartoon stikers, or is this the outer protection against paint during the paint job ??

see ya

[DualBL]

first...
http://bomb-proofproducts.com/Mvc-785w.mpg

that's dual 5300's (same thing I have in my buggy)
dual 5300's is better than one larger motor (more torque, less heat, more run time) which is the reason I went dual 5300's in the first place.

I don't have any better pics. but I'll try to get some in the short future.
basicly, I drilled 2 holes in a Emaxx motor plate, and screwed it to the diff mount on the buggy.
then, I put a center spool in it, and used an Emaxx spur with it, instead of the standard M1 gear.

I have run it, but only once, and then, it was only RWD, and had BAD glitching...
and about 30 sec into the run, one of the motors unscrewed it's self (can was spinning)

but, when it did run, i could tell it will be insane.
right now, it's top speed is only around 30mph, but it has torque to gear up.
i got it to wheelie on grass.

as for the Rustler running on grass, I hardly ever run it on grass.
when it goes over the little gap, that grass is VERY short. and in my yard, that is just to soften the blow from the jumps.

I think that's it for now
thanks.

oh yeah, the cartoons...
they're actually Comics from newspapers.
I got the body, and didn't have any paint. so I went to LHS, and they had no rattle can paint (I suck at airbrush:o )
so, on the way home, I went to my cuz's house, and grabbed their newspaper (we don't get the newspaper), and got creative.

let's just say it was a very stick situation.
i just cut them out, and glued to the inside with Elmers glue.
the hard part was getting them to look decent inside the concave's and convex's.
but, it looks pretty good (or at least I think so):p
ok, I think that's it now. lol

[DualBL]

heh, I got some vids uploaded, and will prolly continue through the day...
http://www.brushless.owns.it

[Lord Hobbes]

i was just wondering dows anyone have a b3 (or b4) with a bl in it?????

[BJMFH1.01]

I just bought a PC fan for my BL ESC. What's the best way to install this thing. I'm assuming the POS and NEG wires hookup to the ESCs matching wires and you just leave the grounding wire unattached. If I'm wrong, please let me know.

Lord Hobbes, I used to own a BL B3. It's an excellent car for just about any BL system. Right now I'm playing around with my buddies' BL T3. Associated cars are great for handling the power of BL motors.

[Mr. Constructor]

To BJMFH1.01:

What type of Pc fan you own, if it is the normal one, used for colling the main CPU, then go with plus and minus at the battery cons, if it is another BL one (with almost minimum 3 wires (often used in Laptops) then put it away and get a "normal" that may handle up to 12 V, that will be good for up to 12 cells (they´re around 13-14 V under load, no problem)

(the fan even rotates when your car stands still, this is OK, if you solder the wires to the battery wires (on Deans should be no problem) )

Use a High rev, not that big fan, the higher the rev, the better the cooling/weight ratio !!

But why do you wanna use a Fan, in wich conditions are you using the ESC??
(mine do not heat up !! only still touchable, if 60-70 ° C is touchable ;) )

The only way to overheat a esc is in my 6th buggy with 18 cells and up to 1500 W, THAT really heats it up, i´m still working on it, maybe i have to use a fan too, or get a higher amped ESC (wich will be a lot money (around 300-400 USD))

Hope the fan solution works the way you think it . . . .
(You might have to replace the fan far often due to the vibrations and jumps, the rotor has contact with the housing, or cut the cooling fins a little down, to prevent this)

See ya

[RCmaniac324]

BJMFH1.01- Yes, from what you have said, that is correct. And that fan should work fine......I have a little 1.5"x1.5" 12V PC fan I bought from Radioshack mounted to my Warrior 7018's heatsink and it solved my heat problems very nicely...it adds some more room to gear up that extra litle bit for even more speed. :D :p

Oh, BTW guys, I was skimming through Rumrunner's revamped site, and I found that they now sell finned aluminum heatsinks for their BL motors (should fit other BLs of similar size also). They offer one that wraps completely around the motor and only sticks out about 1/8" or they offer another one that only wraps around the motor half-way and sticks out a 1/4". I for one plan to get one of the half ones, b/c it will fit nicely in my truck's design and it will keep my motor relatively cool when I run it on hot summer days, while the fan keeps the controller cool. :) Here's the link: http://www.rumrunnerhobbies.com/accessories.htm just scroll down about half way and you'll see 'em. :) L8r.

[BJMFH1.01]

Thanks for the advice Mr. Constructor.

I bought a normal PC fan. It's in the shape of a circle and is made out of aluminum (it's like having another heatsink). The color is blue so it matches the FT T3! The fan can lock out for 72 hours without burning up the motor. The fan and the aluminum both help dissipate the heat. Overall it's a pretty nice fan.

The reason I need the fan is because the weather outside, in my area, is about 90 degrees fahrenheit (around 35 degrees celsius). The humidity is also very high. I also like to run my vehicles in the grass. It works as a great cushion for jumps and doesn't wear down the tires as much. The downside to grass is that it gives off alot of heat and is pretty tough for the car to plough through.

I just got done peforming a few runs with the fan installed in my RC. The ESC runs much cooler, even in grass. I own a Hacker Competition and it helps out tremedously. You should try it in your 1/6 buggy!

[mj_bandit]

Hi.. I've been looking at the Novak BL SS system. It's gonna be going in a Team Losi "Rally Weapon" I wondering if I should get that system anymore..because I hear they go ALOT faster with more cells.. and the Novak doesn't allow any more cells.. what other system would work for MORE cells??? I wanna go FAST remember..nothing under 50 MPH. I don't really want to spend TOO much more than the Novak system for another system.:cool:

[DualBL]

a 5300 or a 1920/5 would get you 50mph on higher cell counts...;)

[Soya v1.1]

I was rooting around Fine Design's site, has anybody looked at Schulze speed control prices? They're huge!! $343 for a 12.97!! AIIIEEE!!

[TeamMishap]

Originally posted by RCmaniac324

Oh, BTW guys, I was skimming through Rumrunner's revamped site, and I found that they now sell finned aluminum heatsinks for their BL motors (should fit other BLs of similar size also). .

Their full round one looks a lot like the Hacker B50 sink...that can be had for $15 or less.

[TeamMishap]

Anyone with a Hacker system have this "problem"?

I'm running a MasterComp/B50/12 cells in series/5 cell NIMH rec pack.

I plug the batts to the controller (Controller on/off switch OFF, no BEC), then switch on the batt pack. I get the two tone beep saying the system is armed. I blip the throttle and it goes for half a second, then no more throttle inputs are accepted. After DCing the batts and turning the rec pack on and off a time or two, it works fine. Any suggestions?

[kilrbzz]

Teammishap,
I found that out the hard way too. Hacker's instructions leave a bit to be desired I'm afraid. I was told when you first plug it in and switch it in, you must go to full throttle so the ESC recognizes full throttle. If you blip the throttle it will not identify it and shut down.

[BL10T]

TeamMishap:

I run a Harcker Comp and Lehner 5300. The same phenomenon happens to me as well and can be a bit tedious. Basically, you need to bring your car out, set it down, connect the battery (with transmitter already on) and then switch on the BEC. Immediately hold full thottle, don't blip it. I have also noticed sometimnes that if the battery is left connected for a while and you then do the above procedure, it doesn' t work. It means I need to get it set up and then put the body on. Pain.

I would love to hear a technical reason for why the Hackers put you through this. I read on a Hacker forum at a Brushless website that the controller (sensorless) must calibrate itself to the motor. Something like that. I'll bet some of the BL guys could provide an answer on this. Anyone.

JC

[Simen123]

I finally got to try the 12.97fwe at our track today :) (I believe it`s under 300$ at Fullers fast electrics).

It was very smooth from the start-up. It won`t cog, but it is a little "rough" when you start from a stand-still. Once your car is rolling slightly, the throttle control is very good. The brakes aren`t that good though. They take about 0.5 seconds before they react, and at the beginning of the battery pack(when the esc is cold/not very hot) they are a bit too strong, and at the end of the pack(when the esc is hot) they are quite weak.

The esc is very easy to adjust, with small "switches" on top of it, that adjusts car/boat or plane profile, timing, reverse and so on.

I`ll be running it more tomorrow, with the c40 6T at a larger track, and if something new happens I`ll post it :D

A low quality picture: http://pic8.picturetrail.com/VOL234/1222980/2317390/28459985.jpg

[HiAmplidude]

Originally posted by BL10T
TeamMishap:

I would love to hear a technical reason for why the Hackers put you through this. I read on a Hacker forum at a Brushless website that the controller (sensorless) must calibrate itself to the motor. Something like that. I'll bet some of the BL guys could provide an answer on this. Anyone.

JC

Try submitting this information to the forum here:
http://www.rcrevolution.com/phpbb/viewforum.php?f=23

Josh, a tech at Hacker USA, drops in to answer questions like this and has even discussed this issue but hasn't gotten very detailed about it.

-HiAmp

[BL10T]

HiAmp:

Yeah, that's the forum I visited before. I noticed Josh's replies, perhaps we could get a more specific answer out of him. Other than the little nuisance getting the car moving forward, the Hacker controller works very well. It provides good speed, throttle control, and strong braking. I was doing 360s and drifting turns on a dusty road with my RC10T truck. I look forward to when BL is more affordable so I can put it in all of my vehicles.

JC

[Maxx Racer 149]

Well awhile back I posted about frying my Hacker sport. Aicraft came through for me and sent me a new controller. On the second run of the new controller it had a major meltdown AGAIN.

I had 12 cells geared 17/72 I even put a cooling fan on it and to be on the safe side I had it on 45 amp limit. It ran for one pack up and down the road in front of my house it was not all that fast but kind of to be expected with the low amp setting. Even just doing this it still got fairly warm.

Took it out to a dirt lot and was playing on the hills for about 30 seconds. It started glitching so I turned around to come back to me to check it out. Got about halfway back and the all familiar huge cloud of smoke and a nice sizzling sound.

Have not contacted aircraft yet I will let you know what they have to say.

Really considering selling my truck off. I have 3000+ invested in the thing and I get to drive it for 5 minutes every 3 weeks or so? What is the point?

[HiAmplidude]

It may be quicker to send it to Aero-Model (Hacker USA) in Arizona. You should give 'em a call to see if they can take care of you.

If I smoke either of my current Comp's, I will check with them first to save the lag in shipping time.

Air Craft World has the best customer service out there, but you're right about how annoying shipping can be. Just think though... if you ran Schulze or Lehner (BK) controllers, you'd wait over half a year to get a faulty unit back and probably be handed a huge $200 bill to pay for the repair.

[TeamMishap]

When I got my stuff from ACWorld, there was a piece of paper saying for Hacker service you have to send it back to the place of purchase. Wouldn't hurt to try asking Hacker USA.

It is a big PITA to get to play with your toys for a few minutes and roast a controller. I just throw the old stock stuff back in. Not quite as exciting, but at least it goes. I thought about selling my EVX, but it's always good to have a back up.

[bAsEmEnTLOSI]

Do you want to know my opinion? Brushless motors are for people who are not mechanically inclined in the slightest way, and don't have a clue how any of the electronics work on an RC. "Look at me! I payed $200 because I need something that's easy to understand cuz I'm duuuumb!" Get a modified people! They can go even faster if you want them to!

You people...ar..ar..are just SAD! :mad: :rolleyes:

[Simen123]

The point of BL is not necessarily to have the fastest car, but something consistent that won`t need tuning/com-cutting all the time. Once you have a motor/esc you are satisfied with, you can concentrate on chassis/tire-tuning instead of worrying about a brushed motor not working properly. http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif

[RadicalRustler]

i would like to see what goes faster, a reedy HW 6t, or a 5300 on 8, 10, or 12 cells? What has better run time? the 5300, and i bet it will have better run time at 10 or 12 cells too! How long does a 6t last before it needs its comm cut? im' guessing 1-2 runs.

[unit_4tec]

Originally posted by bAsEmEnTLOSI
Do you want to know my opinion? Brushless motors are for people who are not mechanically inclined in the slightest way, and don't have a clue how any of the electronics work on an RC. "Look at me! I payed $200 because I need something that's easy to understand cuz I'm duuuumb!" Get a modified people! They can go even faster if you want them to!

You people...ar..ar..are just SAD! :mad: :rolleyes:
:rolleyes: :D you got it! lol j/k lol its not very hard though to cut the comm or what ever i mean come on its not rocket science :rolleyes: but for n00bs its alot easier.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by bAsEmEnTLOSI
Do you want to know my opinion? Brushless motors are for people who are not mechanically inclined in the slightest way, and don't have a clue how any of the electronics work on an RC. "Look at me! I payed $200 because I need something that's easy to understand cuz I'm duuuumb!" Get a modified people! They can go even faster if you want them to!

You people...ar..ar..are just SAD! :mad: :rolleyes:

Wow, you are just sad.

I bet you everyone in this forum understands nearly every aspect of a brushed motor more than you do. There are still many mechanical things you can do with the actual car platform, it just takes another hassle out of maitenence for racing and general running. In fact, I doubt you can even understand how a brushless motor works. In addition from my basic 5300, I also own a few modifieds. I generally prefer my brushless over my 14turn D5 because I dont have to spend 5$ and get the comm cut every 10 runs or so, and spend a few bucks on brushes every now and then. Plus you dont have to constantly clean a brushless with off road vehicles...its amazing how fast you can emty a can of buggy blast when I run my D5.

You my friend have just made your self sound like a complete noob and *******, checking your profile you have 4 posts, your such a welcome to the board!

[k_sw31]

basementlosi, I pity your ignorance.

[FSU427P]

You know, i've been running electric mod motors for at least 6 years now, and when I saw a brushless in action for the first time, I was immediatley sold on the concept. The no-work factor is just icing on the cake to a system that is, IMO, wonderful for all of us who KNOW how to work on mod motors and are now releaved that we can have something that is just as good without the pain of constant perfection. Some people need to keep their thoughts to themselves, especially in a thread designed to complement a certain subject.

[DualBL]

god I wish I was smart enough to run brushed motors.
then I could finnaly get rid of my BL's, and all that extra time I have now, running an extra set of batts, and I could cut comms, or tweak the springs, or change brushes...

man that sounds like more fun than driving my car more often:)

*cough*hack*flamer*cough

[FSU427P]

hahahahahahahaha!

BURN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[BL10T]

I think that bAsEmEnTLOSI is the first troll I have seen on this site in a while or at least on the BL thread.

BL is rekindling my interest in RC and I'm starting to get too old to play with these expensive toys, er, models. The brushed motors were fine in the beginning of RC, with gold can Mabuchi 540s and 380s. At those speeds, the motors had a long life span and were efficient enough. My very first "real" RC was a 1/12 MRC Tamiya LP500s Countach CS, one of Tamiya's first kits. On its 7.2V hump pack with 1200s, it still ran for 15 minutes at 25mph. Still have a NIB Lamborghini body for it somewhere. Imagine a static scale model with an RC chassis underneath. Beautiful.

As the motors have gotten faster, with better magnets, etc., the comms/brushes have only improved a bit in design. At 50,000 rpms, brushes and comms just won't last without tons of maintenance. And most of us bashers (although I used to race pan cars on an oval) have no interest in getting comms cut. In fact, most hobby stores have started to phase out supporting electric in favor of nitro. I would have to search around to even find a comm lathe. Or just purchase one. I'd much rather buy another BL setup. Maybe when Novak releases their high-power editions, and they are a great success, maybe LRP, GM, and all the rest will follow suit. Of course, as has been pointed out, Trinity, AE, and the rest of the manufacturers that sell motors and motor accessories would have to develop new product offerings.

Well, I bit at the troll bait too.

JC

[RCmaniac324]

Originally posted by bAsEmEnTLOSI
Do you want to know my opinion? Brushless motors are for people who are not mechanically inclined in the slightest way, and don't have a clue how any of the electronics work on an RC. "Look at me! I payed $200 because I need something that's easy to understand cuz I'm duuuumb!" Get a modified people! They can go even faster if you want them to!

You people...ar..ar..are just SAD! :mad: :rolleyes:

HAHA! Are you actually thinking about what you are saying??? In a forum consisting only of those who are fans of what you just attempted to dis and bury??? I think YOURE sad my friend...er..."enemy"...

It has been proven on many an occasion that BL systems, even on considerable cell counts (think 6-8) let alone on insane cell counts (think 32.... :eek: ), can beat a nitro, let alone a modified. :rolleyes: Please, I used to deal with all the maintennance of mod motors when I used to run 12T and 11T motors before I sold all that crap and went BL. I am a teenager of a limited budget, and the brushed maintennance was just getting to be too much of a hassle. So, when a decent bit of money came my way for my graduation and confirmation last year, I decided to buy a BL system. Let me tell you, it has been the best thing so far that I have been able to buy for my truck. Speed, efficiency, consistent performance, and next to NO maintennance, sans the occasional bearing lube that really isn't even neccesary, but I like to anyway.

I could just go on and on, but my parents want to go out somewhere......consider yourself lucky......I planned to go even further in depth on this "issue". L8r flamer/hacker/n00b.

[PatrickJ]

Do you want to know my opinion? Brushless motors are for people who are not mechanically inclined in the slightest way, and don't have a clue how any of the electronics work on an RC. "Look at me! I payed $200 because I need something that's easy to understand cuz I'm duuuumb!" Get a modified people! They can go even faster if you want them to!

The modified are horrible too much maintenance. They are brush motors out there that are more powerful than the mod and reduce the maintance but those motors cost a lot of money. They are also not as fast as the brushless. I melted a p94 and 12 cells last week in my boat using a gear box and the speed I got was not as fast as my basic 4200 on 7 cells. The basic 4200 is one of the weaker lehners and the hackers will be stronger than it.

[DualBL]

i hate to be nusence*sp but, I'd REALLY appriciate your help.
www.brushless.owns.it , is finnally doing something...
there's been people posting in the forums, but most are questions, and there's not enough people to help answer them.
also, there's finnaly some pictures, and vids up, and if you want to see your car on the site (this means I'll be hosting the pic, and you can use it to post on message boards), please email to brushless@sbcglobal.net , the pic / vid, along with:

1. vehicle
2. motor
3. controller
4. cells
5. anything else unique about your ride.

come on guys, this thing needs people like you to grow!
i can't promise anything, but if the forum starts to pick up, and we get more members, i wouln't mind asking some of the BL dealers to help sponser some contests and such.
just a thought.
thanks
-Nick Sweo