View Full Version : Associated RC10GT Forum v8.0
Pages :
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
[
10]
mc_knijver
10-09-2006, 11:39 AM
Ok thanks for the info
dhutch
10-13-2006, 03:23 PM
Hi all!
- Ive just taken dellivery of a RC10GT and looking to cash in on the action. Keeping the hyper7 just for the track.
I got it dirt cheap of fleabay, rolling chasis, in a spur of the moment fling.
- Its a bit rough! Its clearly been raced, hard, and a little undermiantained lately.
- It seams to have a tub chasis, which i think is the older type (1999ish?) And hop-up alu shock towers and RPM bumbers etc.
Also im going to have to find an engine for it, as i temperelly forgot it needs a shortshaft engine. And done want to cut the shaft on the engine i was going to put in it.
- Also, as its the first non-metic car ive had, im going to needs some new hex wrenchs!
Daniel
doesgo
10-13-2006, 03:35 PM
The SMF Store (http://www.smfstore.com) has a lot of GT stuff (including the newer flat chassis if you want to upgrade), as well as engines, hex drivers, hardware, bearings, etc. Naturally, other shops have a lot of the goodies as well.
Are you going to race or bash?
dhutch
10-13-2006, 04:00 PM
Ah wow, SMF have as full on shop, never knew that. Unfortuntly im in the UK!
Im not likly to race it no, i race the hyper. Dont have a problem with the tub chasis eather. Infact, its quite cool. A bit retro!
Daniel
doesgo
10-13-2006, 04:04 PM
Don't let the UK thing turn you away, even when you add shipping costs it's often cheaper to get stuff from the U.S. We do about 40% of our business with customers in Europe!
Have you been to, or heard of, SRC? Not sure how close you are to them (Suffolk RC), but you might want to check them out at http://www.srcoffroad.co.uk/. They're building a nice track and are starting to get regular events scheduled. Racing, but with some bashing mixed in for fun as well.
doesgo
10-13-2006, 04:07 PM
Oh, and I agree on the tub chassis, there's really nothing wrong with it. Some folks just assume that since it's old and out of production that it must not be adequate. If you put a Trinity chassis brace in that thing (if they still make them), it'll be as durable, if not more durable, than the flat chassis. At SlapMaFro! we've been beating on a tub-chassis RC10GT since early 2003 and it just keeps on going...
dhutch
10-13-2006, 06:21 PM
Cool.
- Yeah, i have shipped stuff from the states before, but its a bit of a mess, takes a long time too.
Whats this "trinity brace" you got a link got that anywhere?
Also, whats with the spur gear, in not 32P is it!
Daniel
Rtsbasic
10-15-2006, 06:05 PM
If you mean the regular RC10GT spur, it is 32P yes.
I have an old tub chassis on my desk, thinking of building a gt out of spares with it..looks like a good chassis design espically if a bit of additional bracing is used.
rojna-pl
10-26-2006, 08:11 PM
Got my first GT yesterday, I got it used off ebay tore it down and im rebuilding it now. I had every buggy AE ever produced from the first RC10 .... but this is my first GT :D
I ran into 2 problems :(
- the serwo adjustment nut rubs on the front nose tube :roll2: is this normal :confused:
- installed the RPM receiver box for the GT, but the servo arm hits it, so I wont have full right steering :roll2:
Anybody had these problems ??
doesgo
10-26-2006, 08:49 PM
Hmmmm, something's just not right, but I can't put my finger on it, and my GT is completely disassembled right not. Comparing it to mine, it seems that something is simply incorrectly located, and I'm guessing it's those tube mounts for starters. Seems they're locating the tubes too far inboard, but only slightly. There isn't much clearance there from the factory, but there is SOME clearance.
Also, my RPM receiver box is quite a bit farther away from my servo than yours is. Are you using the factory receiver mount holes for the receiver box and the factory holes for the servo? Wait a sec....I think your receiver box might be flipped around backwards! Yes, it is. Flip it 180 degrees and that'll slide it back along the chassis by about a half-inch because the mounting bosses aren't centered on the box.
Let us know what happens!
rojna-pl
10-26-2006, 09:18 PM
The tubes are mounted like AE has it the manual, there's really no way you can mount them wrong ... I bent the screw that holds the servo saver and it helped but not much.
If I flip the radio box around I wont be able to mount the gas/brake servo :confused:
Everything is mounted in the factory holes .... there arent any extra drilled holes in the chassis, so thats not the problem. RPM has pictures where the box is clearly mounted further away from the servo ..... maybe me chassis is a very old version :confused:
rojna-pl
10-26-2006, 09:23 PM
This is a pic from the AE web ... looks like the nut is very close to the tube ... so I guess im good with that.
doesgo
10-26-2006, 09:45 PM
What tube mounts are those you're using? Strange. I've got my RPM box flipped from yours and my throttle/brake servo worked fine, but I guess linkages vary.
rojna-pl
10-26-2006, 10:19 PM
If I turn the box around, it will cover 2 of the 4 screw holes used to mount the gas/brake servo ... so that wont work :( But it does make room for the steering servo :D
khigerd
10-26-2006, 10:22 PM
What aftermarket servo safer are you using? Looks like it is too tall.
Also shorten your steering turnbuckle and readjust the center on your servo.
rojna-pl
10-26-2006, 10:40 PM
everything is stock, setup like the manual says .... I will probably drill new servo holes a little to the left so it clears the reciver box
Radio Acer
10-27-2006, 07:56 PM
That is a very funny problem. The way your RX box is mounted in your original pic is mounted exactly like mine is, so that shouldn't be much of a problem. However, i just rebuilt the front end of a GT and i noticed that the short turnbuckle that's attached to your servo arm seems way too long, especially with the RPM ball cups on it. Try screwing the ball cups in until the length of the entire turnbuckle (from the complete end of one ball cup to the other) is about 5.4 or 5.5 mm. Then center up your servo and mess with the servo arm if it's off center. Then adjust your endpoints, you probably won't need 100% servo throw. If that doesn't solve the problem then i'm stumped.
I have no idea what's wrong with the nose tube rubbing issue though. Sorry.
khigerd
10-27-2006, 10:28 PM
WOW de javu
J_Bone
12-03-2006, 03:54 PM
When I installed my RPM box, mine hit too. I shaved down some of my servo horn(side that hit the box) and I shortened my turnbuckle a bit to allow my horn to be mounted a bit off center(on the servo) and then centered it with my Radio. Works perfect now!
Servo saver: I never had a problem with mine. But the knob was under the tubes. I'm now using a Crescenzi Carbon Fiber one and it's different. I would say the aftermarket tube mounts are not as tall and stock??
Rtsbasic
12-05-2006, 02:07 PM
Perhaps the steering problem is caused by having an older, shorter wheelbase chassis which came with the die cast tube mounts, and using factory team nosetubes. Not 100% sure, but if that is the case, fitting a newer design chassis and nosetube mounts will make the problem disappear.
Would explain why the RPM box doesn't fit correctly as well..
mad419iou1
12-05-2006, 02:16 PM
Perhaps the steering problem is caused by having an older, shorter wheelbase chassis which came with the die cast tube mounts, and using factory team nosetubes. Not 100% sure, but if that is the case, fitting a newer design chassis and nosetube mounts will make the problem disappear.
Would explain why the RPM box doesn't fit correctly as well..
I was thinking the same thing myself. The first RTR's (before the RTR PLUS) have a chassis that is 1/4" shorter than the factory team kits. So that could be your problem right there. J Bone, was your truck an older RTR or a factory truck? I've been thinking about picking up a RPM box too but I've been having some trouble getting one locally.
Mike
LD3Furious
12-12-2006, 06:15 AM
Hey GT guys...I recently picked up an AE .12...at least I'm 99% sure it is the .12, as that is what is stamped on the case...anyway, it has an SG style crank. I need to know if I can make it work on a GT.This particular GT was an RTR, much like the one pictured above. Thx for any input :)
ritchies rc10gt
12-13-2006, 10:20 AM
if i remember correctly the RPM reciever box wont work on the older RTR chassis wich is what Rojna has.but here is a few pics of my FT-GT with the RPM box.maybe it will help you figure out why it wont fit
BTE214
12-21-2006, 06:54 PM
Im sure it will fit because i have the old rtr chassis. I ahave the same box too. Try turning it around the way it should be that will fix your problem.
Edit: I realized the real problems from reading the first post. Make sure the tubes are round by taking them out and rolling them on a flat surface. HTe tubes on mine have a small probably 1-1.5mm clearance. Also my servo horn does not clear the box mount but i haven't noticed any binding. Maybe I have less throw than you.
Bunsincunsin
01-01-2007, 03:28 PM
Anyone have the part# for the motor mount screws? The ones that bolt the chassis to the motor mount.
Also has anyone tried the THS Racing Tuned pipe for the RC10GT? I think I am going to get one of those along with a O.S. .12 CV-RX when I go to the hobby shop. I am going to spend my Christmas Money!
doesgo
01-01-2007, 03:46 PM
They're 6-32 x 3/8" button-head screws (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_47_59&products_id=217).
Bunsincunsin
01-01-2007, 03:53 PM
Thanks!
gurugt
01-05-2007, 08:22 PM
Does anyone know where to get proline gmc, or f150 bodies?
Budman_222
01-07-2007, 08:49 PM
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0091P?&C=CHA&V=PRO
some proline f150's in here.
gurugt
01-13-2007, 08:25 PM
I am thinking of getting a os .18 cv-r in my gt, wondering if anyone has put one of these in their gt's and if so what was the result, any stronger geers needed?
chestnut007
01-14-2007, 01:56 AM
hey people, I'm just wondering where can you buy the Crescenzi Carbon Fiber gt steering thing, i want one badly, lol
BTE214
01-14-2007, 04:06 AM
Guru the tranny will be fine the stealth is one of the best built.
Chestnut I didn't see them on rc10gthobby.com but i saw in another post it is recommended you e-mail him to see if you can get one.
Bunsincunsin
02-01-2007, 11:28 PM
Anybody there?
Are there any other clutch set-ups besides the MIP 4 In-1 and the Associated RC10GT clutches?
Is it possible to use the NTC3 clutch and springs?
Here's a link:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBMD4&P=M
Also has anyone tried the O.S. 12TG-X w/12E Carb engine? I was about to get the CV-RX but it seems that O.S. has discontinued them? So I was wondering if anyone has tried the TG and how they like it. Also, I'm guessing I will have to cut the crank down, or no?
Thanks
doesgo
02-01-2007, 11:40 PM
Do you need a pullstart? You can still get the .12CV-R at the SMF Store (http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=196_195).
Lots of people have said good things about the SSRC Racing aluminum RC10GT clutch (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=57_100&products_id=711), but I haven't used one myself.
Bunsincunsin
02-01-2007, 11:49 PM
I would prefer a pullstart, but I may start racing so a starter box would be handy.
Have you heard anything about the TG engines?
Is the SS RC clutch basically an aluminum MIP clutch? I might try those...
Thanks for the quick reply!
BTE214
02-01-2007, 11:57 PM
The .12 cvrx(s) is still available at tower for 120. It is a good reliable engine. I'm still using the associated two shoe but if when I upgrade I'm going to get the MIP clutch.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA43&P=
doesgo
02-01-2007, 11:58 PM
Yeah, the SSRC clutch is basically the same, just aluminum. The MIP is a great clutch, but it's not quite strong/grippy enough to hold up to the more powerful small blocks.
Nope, I don't know much about the TGs yet.
Bunsincunsin
02-02-2007, 12:06 AM
Hmmm, alright guys, thanks for the info.
I'm going to try and make it down to my LHS soon so I will take a look at what they have.
chestnut007
02-03-2007, 01:04 AM
Guru the tranny will be fine the stealth is one of the best built.
Chestnut I didn't see them on rc10gthobby.com but i saw in another post it is recommended you e-mail him to see if you can get one.
Whoa, I just found out that some one actually responded to my post! Thanks for the suggestion, I might email that guy when my funds build up; it's hard having enough money for racing in this hobby when your just a paperboy and a caddy...
ripatune
02-05-2007, 02:21 PM
Thinking about getting a rc10gt NIB ($250) from LHS. Is this a decent price and is this a decent vehicle for someone just getting into nitro, I was also looking at the Nitro Rustler ($262) but was told to stay away from that by the shop owner. I'm not looking to race, bashing only. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....
doesgo
02-05-2007, 03:21 PM
That's a decent price on a good truck, ripatune! I'd definitely get the GT, it's a blast. It's tough, yet lends itself well to hop-ups, and there are tons of them out there.
That said, you can get an RC10GT2 for $275 or less, it might be worthwhile to set up to the new version since it's not much more money. You'll have no trouble finding parts for years to come.
ripatune
02-05-2007, 03:36 PM
Thanks for the insight, what's difference between the gt2 race spec and the factory team.
TKCastle
02-14-2007, 02:20 PM
Your help is needed please.
I want to run 1/4 axles on my GT but I cant figure it out. Does anyone know what truck came with 1/4 axles? I know the axles, hub carrier, axle pins and bearings. Am I missing something?
Thanks.
Mike.
doesgo
02-20-2007, 11:51 PM
The Factory Team GT2 has a hard-anodized chassis, more aluminum rather than plastic parts, better shocks, titanium turnbuckles, quick-release rear wheels, Pro-Line rubber, etc.
As for running 1/4" axles, that should be no problem. The GT originally came with 1/4" axles way back when, and parts are generally still available. What are you having trouble figuring out? The wheels are different for 1/4" and 3/16" axles, but other than that and the items you listed, I can't think of anything. And actually, I believe the hub carrier is the same for both axle sizes, the difference is taken up by the bearings.
TKCastle
02-21-2007, 12:29 PM
Sweet. Thanks Brother. been waiting for a reply for a long time.
Bunsincunsin
03-03-2007, 08:45 PM
Alright, I found an O.S. .12 CV-RX (S) engine on ebay and bought it.
It is the short shaft, so all I need is the Associated clutch nut and I am set right?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3371&P=M
dustystix
03-20-2007, 05:03 AM
hello all, i'm new to this forum. i've had my GT for almost 5 years, and i bought a new engine for it last fall, a Traxxas .15 with the SG shaft. i'm havin a helluva time figurin what clutch parts i need (flywheel, clutch shoes, clutchbell, etc). the OS .15 that was in it when i bought it (used) is pretty tired and worn out, so that's why i picked the TRX motor(cause i'm pretty familiar with Traxxas, i also own a Revo). anyone have any answers for me? Thanks
Does anybody know when they made the OG white plastics-black tub chassis GT? I still have the box for my brother up in Vegas, and he still has almost the entire truck. He was driving without a fail safe and it went sraight into a car's tires. All I know is that the kick-up plate was bent 90* and the chassis was mangled to hell. I'm kinda interested in buying a regular black tub GT as most of them have black plastics, then swapping in the new chassis and other stuff.
J_Bone
03-30-2007, 01:21 AM
Alright, I found an O.S. .12 CV-RX (S) engine on ebay and bought it.
It is the short shaft, so all I need is the Associated clutch nut and I am set right?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3371&P=M
Yup, that is what I use on my OS .12 cv-r.
J_Bone
03-30-2007, 01:25 AM
hello all, i'm new to this forum. i've had my GT for almost 5 years, and i bought a new engine for it last fall, a Traxxas .15 with the SG shaft. i'm havin a helluva time figurin what clutch parts i need (flywheel, clutch shoes, clutchbell, etc). the OS .15 that was in it when i bought it (used) is pretty tired and worn out, so that's why i picked the TRX motor(cause i'm pretty familiar with Traxxas, i also own a Revo). anyone have any answers for me? Thanks
I have heard of guys installing TRX engines in there GT's, but they had to do a lot of extra stuff. Since you already have Traxxas trucks, I would use the TRX clutch bell and all other parts needed. Then customize the engine mounts, if needed to align up the clutch bell and spur gear. I would recommend an OS engine since they drop right in to the GT. Plus they are easier to tune and more reliable.
trebor
03-30-2007, 09:52 PM
hello all. Just picked up a GT for cheap $. I was going to get the GT2 but the funds are low right now so use the GT for now. Can someone tell me a website that sells alot of parts for the GT? Most places I checked is mostly GT2 parts with a couple GT parts. please help. thanks.
J_Bone
03-31-2007, 02:01 AM
Here, they sell great parts for both GT and GT2.
http://www.baysidehobby.com/
trebor
03-31-2007, 10:01 AM
Here, they sell great parts for both GT and GT2.
http://www.baysidehobby.com/
JBone, That store doesnt even operate anymore. any others?
J_Bone
04-01-2007, 01:00 PM
WOW, it must have just happened. When I posted the link, it was open for business. :confused: I've bougth from Dave multiple times and help test some of his products. What a shame, he has quality stuff.
peow130
04-06-2007, 12:45 AM
Heh, havent been in here for ages, how's everyone doin?
Anyways, what would be a good replacement for the heatsink(?) on my O.S. .12 CV Power engine.
Earlier today i "accidently" flooded my GT's engine during prime and went to take out the glow plug to drain it and it drained blah blah... when i went to put it back in the darned thing stripped itself when i was snugging it up...
So now i gotta find one, or is there anyway to fix the one i have... i have 2 extra ones but unfortunately they are for .15 and won't fit :(
Any help is appreciated :D
peow130
04-08-2007, 04:44 AM
Well nvm, i went to my lhs and ordered one..
The lhs i usually go to had a guy that was inexperienced and apparently my engine is oldschool. Funny how i bought it last summer.
And i did manage to repair my stock AE .15. I used a spare piston i had laying around from an O.S. .15 CV/r and it seems to pump out alot of high end power. I had it running the same speed as my friends Jato 3.3 lol
faisalbasha
04-18-2007, 03:43 PM
How much faster can an MT2 get. i installed an os 18tz engine for super power and on top of that i also added a nova super cooler head. Honestly i cannot begin to describe the speed it gets to at this point.
i honestly think my MT2 is even faster than an MT2 18ss no doubt. i have problems trying to steer the D*** thing.
I am just curious what is the strongest engine that can be installed in an MT2 does anyone know. i think its the os18tz.
faisalbasha
04-18-2007, 03:44 PM
and btw i almost forgot i also got a hardened steel top end clutch bell. now im scared its gonna take off and hit my friends heli.
peow130
04-19-2007, 11:25 PM
MT2?
This is the GT forum, i suppose you mean GT?
J_Bone
04-29-2007, 10:01 AM
How much faster can an MT2 get. i installed an os 18tz engine for super power and on top of that i also added a nova super cooler head. Honestly i cannot begin to describe the speed it gets to at this point.
i honestly think my MT2 is even faster than an MT2 18ss no doubt. i have problems trying to steer the D*** thing.
I am just curious what is the strongest engine that can be installed in an MT2 does anyone know. i think its the os18tz.
This is the wrong thread Faisal.
Just an an FYI: that nova head gives you false readings. I used one once, they are junk IMO. The stock heads are the best ones to use.
XXWoodmanXX
05-10-2007, 09:34 PM
Any possible way to make an XTM .18 fit into the GT with appropriate clutchbell, flywheel, flywheel locknut, etc?
peow130
05-14-2007, 10:52 PM
Ew, an XTM?
You're better off getting an O.S. .18 CV really. They are like 99 bucks on Towerhobbies.
MY friend had an XTM mammoth and had nothing but troubles with it.
XXWoodmanXX
05-14-2007, 11:49 PM
I've got an XTM Mammoth as well, with a Hyper .21 in it and it's fantastic. :) I've since gotten it to fit perfectly, with the pullstart mount and am now awaiting the right flywheel, and I'll be ready for break-in :cool:
peow130
05-16-2007, 12:30 AM
Good luck finding parts without ordering them. XTM arent that great, and the mammoth isn't that super either. Anyways, a .18 in a GT would be too much power anyways. You'd just burn out constantly.
Radio Acer
06-10-2007, 06:34 PM
peow130's got a point. There's a guy at my track that had an .18 in a stadium truck. He took it out after a week and put a .12 in. He couldn't take it out of a corner without wheelying and it was insanely hard to control. You'd be better off getting a .15 or a .12.
Stormer Hobbies has old Peak Diablo's for like $50 right now if anyone's looking for a cheap engine.
wow911
08-06-2007, 06:11 PM
I am totally new to these forums so I hope this goes here. I got a RC10Gt about 3-4 years ago and have only used it about 3-4 times in those years, mainly because everytime I used it I broke something on it, it is still in very good condition though nothing broken or chipped anywhere. I finally took it out of my closet and decided I sould try to start it up, and it was working slightly, it would run for a little then shut off. I went to adjust all the needles bescause I thought that was what could be the problem, I adjusted them and now the car won't even start. I looked nad it looks like the idle needle is the one I really messed up, the throttle opening is now all the way closed and I cant get the 1/16"-1/32" opening I need for the idle to go. I have no idea what to do. I don't have it running so I can't adjust it while it is running. I need to know how to re-open the throttle opening so I can get it to run again. I am about to throw this thing in the trash because it doesn't work.
Thank you
chestnut007
08-06-2007, 07:58 PM
have you tried moving the throttle leaver? maybe it's just seized
Budman_222
08-06-2007, 09:19 PM
If you hold the throttle open while you turn the idle screw, it'll turn easy.
chestnut007
08-07-2007, 12:34 AM
+1 on that
wow911
08-08-2007, 01:34 AM
O.K. I solved my starting problem all I had to do was adjust my throttle trim, but whenever I go to brake the car just shuts down on me, is there any way to solve this, just fine tune it some more maybe? Also my turning radius is junk, is there anyway to fix that to? All the parts on my car are stock unless the RTR package came with extras. The video that came with the car has the car turning in like 1 foot circles while mine can barely turn in my culdesac.
Budman_222
08-08-2007, 08:25 PM
The motor dies when you hit the brakes because the idle screw is not set right. Pull off the air cleaner and adjust the idle stop so the carb is held open by the idle stop, not the servo. The carb opening should not change when you apply the brakes. Try tightening the servo saver to help the steering. They come loose and don't turn the truck very well. The GT's a good truck, just have to learn it wants.
wow911
08-09-2007, 12:47 AM
How do I tighten the servo saver, when I was running it today I went off a small jump and when it landed my throttle got stuck and it was on full throttle and the glow plug was red hot on the outside and it burnt the piston, the piston still goes up and down but is it still safe to run?
ripatune
09-06-2007, 10:55 PM
just wondering if anyone can give me some help with my GT issue, car is drifting forward pretty fast after I start it, I gotta keep the brake applied before it takes off, if I lift up the car the engine revs like a mother, could this be a clutch issue or a brake problem ( I tried adjusting the brake knob but didnt help) any insight would be helpful ..thanks
doesgo
09-06-2007, 11:00 PM
Sounds like the throttle trim on your radio is misadjusted or your carb's idle speed screw is set too high. If you hit the brakes will the engine speed decrease? If so, your trim is wrong. If not, and closing the carb manually (pushing it closed with your finger) doesn't slow it down, your idle speed screw is holding the throttle open too far.
Could also be an overly lean mixture, but I'd check those two first.
ripatune
09-07-2007, 07:41 AM
If I apply brake, speed decreases...I'll fool around with trim first before I go adkusting needles.. Thank You
offroadcrazy01
09-15-2007, 08:14 PM
How Are Your Gt Hanging What Motor Are You Guys Running
offroadcrazy01
09-15-2007, 08:15 PM
How To You Guy Like Your Gt I'm Think About Buying One I Had The Old One
azizhousecallz
12-04-2007, 11:19 AM
RC10GT2 Factory Team Roller.
Ran only once at checkerboard for practice. Very clean and in the box, with manual. great car but don't really like the 1/10 truck. asking 175.00 for this roller. Has wheels, body, servos. and is ready to go. thx!
aziz 609-851-0033
RespirologyRC
12-04-2007, 07:16 PM
So instead of me reading all these old posts. I thought i would just ask. Who still races this and how do you like it? I'm contemplating buying one. I like to race MT and Truggy but at my track they put the two classes one after the other. So i figure i could buy one of these but i'm not sure about the handling or the tires and stuff like that. I do have all the neccessary stuff: servos, spektrum, transponder, engine.
chestnut007
12-05-2007, 04:54 PM
I still race my GT, when I can, the 10th scale guys don't show up oftenly. I like my GT. But I haven't tried any thing else so I have sort of a biased opinion. Look on http://www.rc10gthobby.com/forum/index.php
It's a really good forum with a lot of good info on the GT. I hope that helps.
BamaStangRX7guy
12-27-2007, 06:53 PM
Hello yall. I hope this is the right place to post this. A while back I got an rc10gt from the bosses son for FREE...:D It hadnt been run in awhile so it wouldnt crank...dirty as all get out as well. I cleaned it up...pulled the engine...took of the head...cleaned it up and put it all back together. Tried cranking it and took 4 EVER to finally crank...lol. I got a callous from pulling it. :rolleyes: Anyway, once it was running it wouldnt do anything...tires wouldnt turn and the throttle wouldnt respond...fresh batteries in the radio...the factory one btw. Ive read a few things on it so far...trying to figure out the issue. I found that the original radios were crap...or so I heard. Anyone have any advice on this? This sound like a bad radio? Also, the engine seems like its idling to fast...its just roaring along ...lol...almost like its wide open. Any helpful advice for the NOOB, on the rc10 and nitro cars in general? Thanks alot yall. Later.
Jeremy
chestnut007
12-27-2007, 07:01 PM
If nothings responding and the batteries are new then the radio must be bad. You can get a decent Futaba FM radio for cheap. Sounds like your idle is too high, but it might be just the throttle stuck open from the non-functioning radio. Btw, did it come with a manual?
BamaStangRX7guy
12-29-2007, 01:40 PM
Nope...no manual. There is a hobby store close to where I live. I didnt want to go in and look like a complete Newbtard. I really wanted to at least have some idea what I was looking for.:D Same as when I go to a speed shop...or auto parts store,for something for one of my cars...but ive got no problems there though. :) So, futaba you say? They are good ones huh? Ill go do a little research on those. Thanks man. :cool:
chestnut007
12-30-2007, 04:53 PM
Anytime... I also got a slightly used Futaba radio that I don't need anymore. Give me a holler if you want it.
BamaStangRX7guy
12-31-2007, 10:48 AM
How much would you want for it?
chestnut007
12-31-2007, 07:03 PM
You got a PM.
RoadRatRacer
01-19-2008, 09:03 PM
Doesn't seem to me, but was wondering if the Transmissions of the RC10GT and the GT2 were inter changable? Just wondering if anyones been down that road. Thanks for your thoughts and time on the subject.
doesgo
01-20-2008, 10:42 AM
Nope, the two transmissions are completely different, at least as far as layout and mounting goes. The diffs are the same, though.
RoadRatRacer
01-21-2008, 05:42 PM
I' m runnin stock AE .15 engines in my RC10GT's & my GT2. Taking out my
carb restrictors, I'm thinking I should only need to ajust my idle. Or am I not seeing far enough into this?
Such as I shouldn't have to mess with my trottle linkage or my HN or LN.
Thanks for any thoughts on this sit.
Budman_222
02-02-2008, 01:23 AM
You'll need to richen the hsn a bit. You increase the amount of air entering when you remove the restrictor so you have to add more fuel to maintain the f/a ratio. Linkage won't change. The lsn I'm not sure about. Should be close.
RoadRatRacer
02-02-2008, 08:13 PM
You'll need to richen the hsn a bit. You increase the amount of air entering when you remove the restrictor so you have to add more fuel to maintain the f/a ratio. Linkage won't change. The lsn I'm not sure about. Should be close.
Thanks Budman, Makes good sense about the Keeping the f/a ratio. They call them restrictors for a reason. I figure I'll have to play and tweak some
with the ajusting. Weather here has been nasty for awhile. Hard to get out to play. Thought thinking things thru in the head and talking to others
might save time and help me feel the ajustments.
RoadRatRacer
03-08-2008, 01:43 AM
Is the difference of the flywheels for pull start & non pull start AE.15 only
for starterbox convience, or does it affect Engine run, balance, load, etc..
BTE214
03-08-2008, 02:22 AM
It's only really so you can have either pullstart or non, but because they are different sizes there will different amounts of ratational mass.
RespirologyRC
03-12-2008, 11:33 AM
Anyone here interested in a custom painted GT2 body??? I just finished painting it and thought i would post it here first before the bay.
I'll have pics up in the paint forum labeled "Respo #17 RC10GT2"
chestnut007
03-12-2008, 10:14 PM
thanks, but no thanks... I don't have the money for it.:( Jeeze, this forum is dead...
BTE214
03-12-2008, 11:36 PM
Jeeze, this forum is dead...
Agreed. Although it is winter so those of us in the northern states don't run as often. I just got mine back together after rebuilding my diff.
RoadRatRacer
03-29-2008, 01:19 PM
Does anyone got experience with the, LRP Z18S Pro Spec2, running in their RC10GT or GT2? Getting it for some Outaw running. Looking for hind sight on the powerhouse.
hello im posting for my second time. I purchased 2 rc10 gt's today one looks flawless the other has a seized engin. i just got broke loose. these are my first gas cars.... and the guy said they have sat for years... anything i should do before trying to start them up?
$150 for both an ok price?
Thanks in advance!, Jacob.
im excited to be getting back into rc's and bringing up my son into the sport. Respect to all!
chestnut007
04-14-2008, 10:12 PM
Hi! $150 is a great deal! Just put some After Run Oil (Marvel's Mystery Oil is the cheaper but the same stuff you get at the hobby store) in the engines before you try starting them up. Once they are started get them tuned correctly then run them easy for a tank just to break them back in after all that sitting time.
hey thanks man!, how would you go about injecting the oil into the motor? remove the glow plug???, thanks again
chestnut007
04-15-2008, 04:19 PM
Yep, right where the glow plug goes.
well i got them both fired up today.. they ran smooth but i saw i few things im not sure are right. they both spit a small amount of fuel out of the tail pipe. and when i hit the breaks they die. I am loving them both though,. perfect addition to my collection I now have,.,.,.,
1 vintage rc10 gold pan..
2 rc10gt's
and one xxxt electric
im really looking for a vintage tamiya lunchbox also.. wont be long till i find one!. respect and blessings Chestnut, Jacob
chestnut007
04-16-2008, 09:52 PM
Good to hear you got them started. Since they're spitting out fuel, go ahead and lean up the engines by turning the HSN (usually biggest screw) clock-wise in hour increments (while testing in between adjustments). Do this until you get good power but still get smoke when you nail the throttle. It also sounds like their idles are set too low. Go ahead and turn the little idle screw (usually lower on the carb) clock-wise until it stops stalling( make sure you test in between adjustments of that too). For more info check out this site: http://www.rchobbies.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm they really go in depth with the whole nitro tuning thing. Have fun!
P.S. I have two GTs also! The old black tub chassis and the newer blue chassis one (which I still race!).
BTE214
04-16-2008, 11:39 PM
For the arter run oil don't remove the glow plug. Put it in the carb. It goes to the same place and you reduce the risk of getting dirt in your engine, and will also reduce wear on the threads in the head.
you guys kick kick a** thanks again!, can't wait to hit the track. my lhs is kind of rude though, haha not to interested, grumpy 70 year old guy././././. I'm going to give him one more shot. I need a few parts. Maybe he was just having a bad day... I may have to drive further:] These are both black tub the motors say O.S Max. You guys think i would have a chance at the track? Aint these cars like 12 years old?
anyone know what bearings I use for the front rims?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=ASCC0377&P=OW
Budman_222
04-19-2008, 01:20 PM
anyone know what bearings I use for the front rims?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=ASCC0377&P=OW
3/16 x 3/8 "
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPA18&P=OW
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2012, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.