Associated RC10GT Forum v8.0

[MonsterBlazer#1]

i must have got my wires crossed.
i was under the impression that nitro dude was saying that becuase he didnt buy the rtr plus he should jsut wait til it brakes and buy another car???
if he was talking about the battiery pack. im sory i thought he was saying about the actual car.

and yea IM giving advice.

[rocknbil]

I've been using 4.8V AA nicads for years, and recently nimH, never had a single prob on either of our GT's. That's with Futaba high-torque high-speed servos on both steering and throttle.

[RC10's]

By Associated rear exhaust headers do you mean the bolt on type with 2 screws or the round spring mounted type? They do make a round type one for the NTC3 that ive seen put to use on the GT. There are also many other companys making headers of various shapes, sizes, and ports.

[1tuffRC10]

If the header has two bolts to hold it on the engine, then it's side exhaust. If it has springs holding it on, then it's a rear exhaust. Still would like to see that AE rear exhaust header.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Hi RC10GT people :) I have just got hold of an RC10GT which seems to be a collection of nice parts on a "Factory Team" chassis I think - I was fed up of my XTR3E (.21 2WD Truck) rolling over, lifting off the ground at speed and spinning out all the time, power is nothing without control ! (So I sold it and bought an RC10GT !)

I have checked the thing over and it looks well built and new, but there are shims on the OUTSIDE of the rear hub, is this correct ? I don't have a manual but it doesn't seem right ? Wouldn't the wheel wobble on such a small area when tightened down ?

Here's pic, the arrow points to 3 x shims under the roll pin, is this right ?

Thanks !

[X-Tee Ha !]

Sorry, double post, the picture didn't show up in the "Preview"

[X-Tee Ha !]

Sorry, double post, the picture didn't show up in the "Preview"

[nitrodude_1]

x-tee there should be a shim on either side, to help it spin better, and protect the bearing from the pin rubbing agenst the bearing.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Hi Nitrodude

OK, thanks. I can see what you mean about the pin rubbing the bearing, good point :) There are 3 x shims on this though, 1 fairly thick and 2 x heavyweight paper thickness, it just sort of "feels" wrong to tighten a relatively huge diameter wheel onto such a tiny diameter base, the rocking leverage would be massive, *ouch* still, if they're all like it, shows what I know !

Thanks !

[nitrodude_1]

nice truck looks good from the pic you posted xtee

[dog8spam]

You want at least one on the inside but after that the more on the outside the better because it widens the truck. If you want it even wider get the B4 axles.

[dog8spam]

You want at least one on the inside but after that the more on the outside the better because it widens the truck. If you want it even wider get the B4 axles.

[1tuffRC10]

X-tee ha, looking at the chassis it looks like it is the thicker, RTR chassis. If it has two turn ups on the front then it's RTR. If it only has one turn up on the front then it's a Team chassis. Try the B4 axels with the losi wheel spacers mounted between the pin and bearing. It gives you a nice large area to snug the wheel against and the smaller inner side rides only on the inside of the bearing.

[X-Tee Ha !]

1tuff,

It gives you a nice large area to snug the wheel against and the smaller inner side rides only on the inside of the bearing

That sounds good ! I had actually planned to use just one of the thinest shims to keep me away from rubbing the bearing then try and find a much larger washer to spread the load a bit, the thin shim would see that no scuffing is done :)

The chassis has the two turn ups on the front and says "IE" on the bottom I think it is.

Dog8spam, thanks, I'll try the widest it will go !

[nitrodude_1]

also a good thing to get xtee but I can make you a pair and I got this from jared tebo is get or make bigger front axles. I made a pair and they turned out really well I made mine out of titanium but you can use hardened stainless steal, steel, t6 alluminum, forged aluminum. depends what you used cost my 6.00 in material but made my truck wheels 1 inch wider and really stable.
but if you do them right it takes 3 hours to make 2 but they are smooth. nice tight fit. I will make them for anybody 10.00 plus shinnin but that is like 1.00 e-mail me at jarld@dccnet.com if you are interested. I need a metal shop projects.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Hi Nitrodude

Are these the front axles ? the blue things ? You make those longer ? Is there a bush or a spacer to stop the wheel going right back to the hub, or is there a shoulder machined ? And are the "Ti" axles $10 ? (cheap!) Does the wider track give the servo more work, or get bumped around a lot ? I imagine the wheels further out from the hub apply more leverage back to it, does this mod work for you when you have driven off road? Sorry for so many questions !

[X-Tee Ha !]

Also just checking, is there a rear exhaust manifold that clears the standard body ? Or does the body need to be cut .. :(

[X-Tee Ha !]

Pester, pester :D I did a search and found this thread :

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1106956&highlight=losi+manifold#post1106956

It mentions the Losi header and a Mugen header. I think there is a guy called "Steve" with the Losi header, Steve, are you still around ? Do you have a picture of this manifold fitted please ? I think you said it still hit the body.

Maybe the Mugen header sits tighter in ? but if it's the one I have searched and found, it seems to have a dead end that the exhaust fires at then have to turn a sharp 90 down, surely this can't be as good as a flowing bend ? Even if it doesn't hit the body :D

[KanaiDude]

Hey does anyone use the rear shocks on the front giving more suspension travel? I bought a used ftgt off ebay, and it came with four rear shocks, I thought something was wierd , then while rebuilding figured out they were all rear shocks, I guess this guy thought it helped. I'm going to get some regular front shocks, just thought I'd see what you guys thought...

[X-Tee Ha !]

I imagine there would be less travel overall as the rear shock bodies are longer, the shock eyelet would hit the base of the shock sooner limiting travel - imagine if you had a very long shock, that stopped 5mm from the lower arm, you'd have about 5mm of suspension travel eventhough you had a very long shock say off a Savage or something !

[KanaiDude]

The front shocks though will extend all the way, it's not limited by the arms. When I pick the truck up, the shocks and arms extend all the way leaving a gap where there is no spring even (has front shock springs). I don't really know if this is good or bad for the front end, if you think about it, comming off a jump your front tires might actually land sooner, or for some reason or another your front end comes off the ground, but maybe my tires wouldn't since the shocks extend farther. Keep in mind the travel on the front end is only limited by the shocks not the arms. I'm still buying front shocks, just thought it might be an interesting idea.

[offroadcrazy01]

I would get regular shock if your going to be racing if your bashing I dont think it wil be a big deal

[2mcgrath]

i have a problem with my tank leaking around the lid.. i read somewhere you can adjust the screw in the center to make it seal better is this true?

[1tuffRC10]

2mcgrath, just get a new tank and be done with it. They get junk in the little filter deal in the bottom and sometimes that will cause them to build more pressure than the lid can handle. Besides that the spring gets weak, the seal gets wore etc.... It's just better not to take a chance on them.

kanaidude, xt is right. Sounds like a good way to break a shock tower or arm. It would be ok if you didn't get in the air much. If you did get enough air to bottom the shock, something would have to give.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by KanaiDude
...When I pick the truck up, the shocks and arms extend all the way leaving a gap where there is no spring even .....

This is because you have no spring clamps or spacers. Old style (what I prefer) AE's had a clamp all the way around the shock with a bolt you tightened up; newer ones now come with slip-on spacers to take up the slack AND to adjust ride height.

. . . . looking on tower . . . .

Ahh. Here they are.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3020&P=0

That's the DS kit, but you get the idea. I don't think they make the clamps any more. Ask MonsterBlazer. :D

Additionally, you can put shock limiters - little "tubes" on the shaft inside the shocks.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

yea i those shock retainer collets or 1 of the million names for them are very ahrd to track down. but i managed to get a few of a good yank i know ;)

[RC10's]

The old screw type collars were standard on the older RC10's and RC10T's I think they stopped using them somewhere in the range of the newer trucks like the RC10T2. In any case they are much easier IMO for quick and easy adjustments but are now hard to find. I bet if you looked hard on TowerHobbies you may find some because Tower has a lot of older parts like that. I will look through my old manuals and see if i can come up with a part number.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

b4 i got mine i was looking on tower and found some
not sure if they wer the right size or so but i think they might have been losi?

[X-Tee Ha !]

Has anyone had any success with fitting a rear exhaust engine in an RC10GT and NOT having to cut the body to clear the manifold/pipe ? Is there such a manifold ?

Thanks

[KanaiDude]

Rocknbil - It's not because there are no springs or spacers, it's because they are rear shocks on the front, it would not be wise to load up the front shocks with spacers, would just have an ultra stiff front end. If you had read both my posts I was just asking if anyone else had run it like this, rear shocks on the front, since I bought this used, and wasn't sure why it was like that. Your idea about shock limitators is good, that would work, if I hadn't just bougt some blue anodized ones off ebay...

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
..i managed to get a few of a good yank i know.

YANK THIS!!!! :D

...I bet if you looked hard on TowerHobbies you may find some.....

I'll take that bet. :D Fortunately since I run original 10T's and GT's, I have a supply of them - HOWEVER - AE has ben responsive to selling parts that are no longer distributed by retailers, I experienced this in reviving an old 10L for my bro-in-law, you *may* find some satisfaction by contacting them directly.

I throw my spacers away, they are as useful as Tamiya Plugs. Well less actually - I save my old Tamiya plugs and STILL DO NOT KNOW WHY . . . . :D

[dagoson]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !
Has anyone had any success with fitting a rear exhaust engine in an RC10GT and NOT having to cut the body to clear the manifold/pipe ? Is there such a manifold ?

Thanks

I have an os cvr .15 rear exhaust in my gt with a proline crowd pleazer body it fit right in no problems I am not sure of the maker of the pipe but it is 180 degrees I would put a pic up but I dont know how to do it on here

[X-Tee Ha !]

Hi Dagoson

The CV-R is actually a side exhaust, but it points to the rear of the truck, I have a rear exhaust engine that points to the side ! :D I've got 2 manifolds so far, a Novarossi and a "Golden Horizons" both come out bang into the body. If they all do this, then I'll cut the body (Proline RC10GT Kit Supplied Body or Atomik Body) but it's usually after I have cut the body to bits that I find the right manifold *lol*

Thanks for the info though, I might just fit an OS15 CV-R yet although I have NOW painted the chassis black as my existing engine has a purple head and I have a polishe pipe for it. Purple, blue and chrome mixed all looks a bit too much ! Purple, black and chrome looks classic somehow :D

[X-Tee Ha !]

Here's the black chassis top, what does everyone think ? Not sure if I have done the right thing !

[X-Tee Ha !]

Another :

[KanaiDude]

Nice job, I likie, I have a ntc3 with black coated chasis, what kind of paint did you use, you think the bottom will take the abuse or strip away pretty fast?

[rc_king1]

I curently run the Mugen header made for their MST-1 truck. This header works great for rear exhaust engines. By the way, I run an os .12 TR engine with a stock AE pipe. Hope this helps.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Hi RC King, MST1, thanks, I think I may have seen that one, I'll do a little searching see if I can get hold of one !

Kanai, I used a semi gloss cellulose paint, matt would have stained to easily with fuel and gloss would have looked el cheapo ! The semi gloss wipes clean OK. As for the chassis underside, I though it would just scratch off and look horrible the first time I used it so I have left it blue, should be able to see when I have rolled it from a distance too !

[MonsterBlazer#1]

*** is goin on here
i jsut got my rpm parts. a-arms, 3degree mounts and bulkhead, etc
on the left side the rear a arm is the right 1???***
it cant be any other way because of the hollowed bit for the DB so wierd....

[xpressgt]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
*** is goin on here
i jsut got my rpm parts. a-arms, 3degree mounts and bulkhead, etc
on the left side the rear a arm is the right 1???***
it cant be any other way because of the hollowed bit for the DB so wierd....


that right put the right one on the left and the left on the right

i said the same thing when i first got it

[Polk]

It all depends on what way you look at it!!! ;)

[MonsterBlazer#1]

its pretty wierd hey a big company like that..u think theyd realise...

[1tuffRC10]

The RPM arms have been like that for years. I don't use them anymore. They are just too rubbery for racing. Great for bashing.

[The King]

:D I am still working on getting the perfect paintjob for my baby

[AznJunkie]

The King - Nice paint job

To the rest - I have a quick question about type of crankshaft for the GT. Can the GT use a SG (pilot) crankshaft engine in the GT?

[RC10's]

yes you can use an SG, in fact some RTRs come with a SG. You need a different clutch nut not the clutch nut with the pilot shaft built in like you would use on a standard shaft.

[X-Tee Ha !]

ONLY imperial SG cranks will work, the majority won't, beware !

The King, nicely painted :D

[AznJunkie]

X-Tee Ha – You can elaborate some more please. Thanks.

[cbr74]

It can be done. The GT uses a clutch nut with standard shaft, not metric. Almost all SG shaft engines use metric.

The key is in the 32 pitch.. the same pitch Traxxas uses. You can pull an engine with clutch and all from a T-Maxx and drop it right into a GT , I know.. I've done it.

So to use an SG shaft engine, you need a T-Maxx flywheel, clutch, clutchnut, and bell.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Azn, the only SG crank engines that will drop into the GT using standard parts (ie not using part "a" from manufacturer "b" getting mate "c" to knock you something up in his shop etc etc, anything will fit going that route) are imperial SG cranks and so far as I know these are only used on Thunder Tiger/Associated engines. OS, Novarossi etc SG METRIC cranks will NOT fit your standard GT parts.

[cbr74]

What's so important about using all AE parts? The stock T-Maxx clutch is better than the stock GT clutch anyway.

[X-Tee Ha !]

And I am pretty sure the T-Maxx does not use an SG crank either, maybe the latest TRX2.5 does though. :D

[cbr74]

The 2.5 has an SG shaft.

[X-Tee Ha !]

I don't think there is anything important about using all AE parts, Azn was basically asking does an SG crank fit the RC10GT, well, the answer is no, not if it is a metric SG crank, I'm sorry, but that is a fact :D If I were to say "yes" then when the guy got home as a proud owner of a new Nova RS12T5 SG crank engine and found that none of existing parts fitted how accurate do you think he would rate my answer to be :D

Equally, if someone asked the question, "Will a Pentium 4 processor fit in my old P166 motherboard ?" I would say, "Nope" Not, yes it will fit fine, all you need to do is swap out your motherboard. :D

So, to summarise, a metric SG crank will NOT fit your RC10GT, an imperial SG crank will fit your RC10GT. So far as I know only Thunder Tiger and Associated produce imperial SG cranks, these will fit fine.

An OS FS120 4 stroke engine will also fit fine, all you need to do is machine the crankshaft down to exactly resemble an imperial small block SG crank, melt the piston down and recast the alloy in roughly the shape and size of a .15 piston and machine to size, contract a diecasting company to spark erode you a tool to cast a small block engine case, obtain suitable ballraces for the block, sell the OS120 carb and get a nice 5.5mm rotary job, get hold of a few other small bits and bobs from your LHS and hey presto, your OS120 engine fits straight in !

[cbr74]

Exactly... so if he wants to put a Nova RS12T5 in his GT he can simply pick up a TRX 2.5 flywheel, clutch, and bell.

And if he wants to put a OS FS120 in his GT he can follow your sarcasm laden advice.


You offered the simple answer... no, it won't fit. I offered the solution.

[cbr74]

And on the RPM a-arm issue. ... when the RPM arms were first devloped for the original RC10T.. the shocks were mounted on the front side of the rear a-arms. So if you put the arms on a 10T or T2.. the left and right are correct.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Hi

Good point :D But are you "sure" this is all he needs to do ? Have you tried it ? Whenever I hear, "he can simply pick up a" it usually isn't that simple.

Are you sure the flywheel is the same diameter as the GT ? And it doesn't stick through the bottom of the chassis ? The non-pull GT flywheel is pretty small in diameter. And the clutchbell, it's available in 15 tooth ? single speed, and it's not too deep/far forward/rubs on the spur ?

Have you done this mod ? (it does sound good I must admit) or have you just bolted a Traxxas engine in an RC10GT ?

Thanks ! :)

[cbr74]

Yes, I've taken a T-Maxx engine and put it in a GT. It was, however, a pullstart.

A non-pullstart SG shaft engine works the same, you simply need a flywheel (TRX 4142), clutch (4146), clutchnut (5244), and your choice of clutchbells. Traxxas only goes to 16 tooth (4116).
For the 16t bell, you'll need (2) 5X8mm bearings

I don't think you'd want to run a 15t with an SG NPS engine, but if it struck your fancy to do so... Racer's Edge has a 15 tooth (RE 14915). It comes with its own bearings.

The Traxxas flywheel is 2mm larger than the AE, so it will sit 1mm lower. Not enough to worry about ground strikes with.

[AznJunkie]

X-Tee Ha ! & cbr74, thank you for the answers. You guys answer my question. I was going to ask if it can be modify to fit and I guess the answer is yes.

I don’t want to change out my flywheel and clutch just to run SG. I thought a SG will fit, but now I know the answer.

I’m not going to change out my engine just yet. Mine still have good compression. I’m running a non-pullstart HPI Evo II engine and I’m very happy with the speed.

Again thank you guys!

[AznJunkie]

Oh and I have another question. Whenever my GT is flip (upside down) my engine starts to rev really high. What I mean is that when I flip my engine starts revving really high. Like it’s WOT. The only way to slow the revving is to hold the brake.

My friend also has a GT and his running a RTR GT + with the stock engine (thunder tiger) and his doesn’t do that. Does the type of fuel tank matter? He has the new tank (pressure nipple on top of the cap) as were I have the old one (pressure nipple rear the rear). Any guess to why mine does that.

TIA

[1tuffRC10]

azn, sounds like it's running lean upside down. Make sure you have 9 inches of pressure line, from the exhaust. Also it may be pinching the line when the body moves down. May just need to richen the low end. How's the temp? They will run out of fuel upside down, the pick up is in the bottom of the tank. When the truck is upside down, the fuel can't get to it.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Azn, does it speed up immediately it hits the roof, or after a short period of time it speeds up, then stops ? (while you are sprinting like the clappers towards it :D)


Also, I am building an RC10GT right now (another one, long story) and I am just on the Stealth Diff part - no grease on the gears ? The manual doesn't indicate to grease them :confused: So they run dry ? Or is a slight film of lube preferable ?

CBR, thanks for the part numbers, nice tip !

[atm92484_3]

I've always followed AE's instructions and ran the gears dry. The material they use is self-lubricating. Maybe I've just been lucky, but following their instructions, I've yet to have a tranny gear fail and I'm going on 5 years of running AE cars.

[AznJunkie]

It speeds up immediately once it hits the roof. You can hear that bad boy screaming. It speeds up for a bit before it stops. It doesn’t just speed up and stop. My temp seems fine. I don’t have a temp gun. I do the spit test. It takes about 4-5 sec for the water to vaporize. I have about 9” of fuel tubing for the pressure line. My low end could be a bit lean, but it seems fine to me.

I’ll check out the low end again today. It could be on the lean side. Going out to the track again today. I will post back later tonight.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Thank you Sir ! :cool: I shall continue the build right now :D

[rocknbil]

Also don't use so much grease on the balls that the centrifugal force causes it to sling out and get all over the gears.

Azn, it sound like it's just plain lean.

[X-Tee Ha !]

I've had to strip it back down and remove the excess grease :mad: :D I remember seeing a roll of grease pushing out all around both sides as I turned the diff part when I was seating everything. Anyway it is off the diff now, mainly on my jeans, manual, bench, hands and face somehow :D

[nitrodude_1]

any body wana buy rc10gt hop ups or a rc10gt with all hop ups e-mail me at jarld@dccnet.com or post me back

[X-Tee Ha !]

If the price is right, I'll buy it ! Any pics please ? greg350uk@yahoo.co.uk (don't worry about the UK, it's real easy to ship, I have 6 + items a month from USA)

[AznJunkie]

Today I was at the track and I richen up the low end. I richen to the point where it will boggle quite a bit when I accelerate. I flip the GT and it still revs high.

I have problems with my idle:

1) With the wheels off the ground the idle will rev really high. I have to hold the brake just to stop it from revving. When I put it on the ground it doesn’t do that. I check my throttle linkage and it’s fine.

2) Also another thing is that when I drive around the track at low speed for a while my engine will start to bog when I try and let it idle. Then the engine will just cut off. If I wot it a little bit on the track, it doesn’t have that idle problem. When I restart it and just let it will idle, it will idle for a while. I go back on the track and the same thing happens again.

Is that normal? Is this cause by air leak some where?

[dog8spam]

2) Also another thing is that when I drive around the track at low speed for a while my engine will start to bog when I try and let it idle. Then the engine will just cut off. If I wot it a little bit on the track, it doesn’t have that idle problem. When I restart it and just let it will idle, it will idle for a while. I go back on the track and the same thing happens again.

I think you have the same thing my GT did. Mine would idle all day sitting on the starter box but would randomly bog down and die when it was on the track. Nobody there could figure it out. I had five guys tune it and it still did it. While running about half throttle it wouldnt die.

You did mention it was rich so that may be it but on mine it was worn out clutch shoes. Im not sure if that was only it though, since I replaced the whole fuel delivery system, and completely rebuilt my engine only to find it still didnt work. All I know is after I replaced the clutch shoes it got completely better.

With the idle thing you need to dial your radio so there is a little brake on when you let go of the throttle.

[nitrodude_1]

xteea e-mail me at jarld@dccnet.com youi e-mail does not work

[AznJunkie]

The second question happen before I richen my low end. After I richen the low end it still does the same thing only a bit faster. Meaning it will boggle faster than before.

I'm running a 3 shoe clutch on my GT. Last time I looked at the clutch show was about two weeks ago and it look fine.

Is it ok to have a little drag brake on the GT? I had a RS4 before my GT and the manual said not to have drag brakes. I don't have the GT manual so I don't know if it's ok or not.

With my first question, is that normal??

[X-Tee Ha !]

Oh, OK, I'll e-mail you know, it should work. I'll check if it is already full !

[nitrodude_1]

it is about 5mb the e-mail

[RC10's]

I dont like to run any drag brake because it makes the truck handle unpredictably when your off the throttle. Not to mention it heats up the breaks excessively, and causes excessive wear on the pad.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by AznJunkie
......Is it ok to have a little drag brake on the GT?...

It's not only OK, it's recommended. First, let's define "drag brake:" It should not be enough to stop the wheels at idle, but just enough so that when you let your throttle off it should put a smooth, even resistance on the pad. Drag brake should NOT heat up your pad, because it only applies itself when you're off the gas.

The major advantage to drag brake (as pointed out to me by another member here, and since then I won't run any other way) is that when you come into a corner and you let of the gas, the slight braking action applies a SMOOTH and predictable negative force, shifting the weight forward, providing an amazing difference in coming-into-corner front traction.

A secondary benefit is that it gives you that "nth" more reach on the full-brake position.

If it's unpredictable or enough to "feel," you have too much drag brake, back it off a touch.

[RC10's]

This is one of those things that works for some people and others hate it, so its really something you have to expirement with to see how it works for you.

[Schooled]

I got a GT+ for my birthday (Dec 12th) .. im going to run it when the weather gets warmer.. anything i should consider when running it, tuning it. and all that other good stuff?

[RC10's]

There are an infinite number of thigns to worry about and consider. If you ask more specific questions we may be able to help you more...Above all dont overheat it, run it a little rich if in doubt.

[1tuffRC10]

azn, if your wheels are spinning fast at idle, it may be idleing too fast. I don't run that clutch, MIP is a much better clutch. Those other types, without springs, will cause problems like that. I even trim the shoes on my clutch so it engages at higher rpm's. That way I can idle my engine a little faster without the wheels spinning.

[1tuffRC10]

rc10's, you chould try the Crezinski (sp) brakes. They are awsome. No fade. I've used one for nearly a year. They last great. Stock brakes wouldn't last for a gallon of fuel on my truck.

[AznJunkie]

1tuffRC10 - That's what I was thinking too. Once I have time I'll work on it.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

[nitrodude_1]

any body else wana buy a rc10gt race set up. very fast. lots of hop ups
e-mail me at jarld@dccnet.com send pics to you

[RC10's]

My experiences with the AE or thunder tiger engines are that they run really strange upside down, my friend has one and it always revs high upside and always dies when its righted.

[offroadcrazy01]

after you riched up the lsn you have to reset the idle while the car is on,if the lsn is to rich the motor will rev high for a long time you only want it to rev high for a little while check this out , tuning procedure is as follows:

1 - set the engine’s idle speed up slightly higher than normal
2 - start tuning your engine with the settings too rich
3 - always tune top end first
4 - tune bottom end next
5 - reset idle speed


You tune the engine by measuring the engine’s temperature, and making the required adjustments to make the temperature correct. There are two ways to measure the engine’s temperature:

a) Temperature gauge method: Get the engine up to running temperature, bring the car into the pits and immediately take a temperature reading. Place the temperature gauge directly over the engine, pointed at the glow plug, and take a reading. It’s easier to do if you have a second person to take the readings for you.

b) Spit method: Get the engine up to running temperature, then pull in as quickly as possible and put some spit on the engine’s cylinder head (quickly, so as to not burn your finger). The saliva should just slowly boil off (2 to 3 seconds). It should NOT dance around as if it were on a hot griddle, nor should it lay there and steam. In short, if your spittle will sizzle, it's too hot.



If the engine is too rich, the engine temperature will be colder than desired (and vice versa). If the engine is too lean, the engine temperature will be hotter than desired. Go out on the track with the top end rich. If you have got the mixture set right, there will be heavy smoke from the engine on the straightaway. Run four or five full laps to get the engine up to running temperature before touching the carb. Bring the car in, and take a temperature reading. Start leaning out the top end by turning the adjusting screw only 1/12 turn at a time (picture a clock’s 12 even spaces). Take your time doing the adjusting - don’t be in a hurry. It may take a while. Your goal will be to get the car to just "punch clean" when you come onto the straightaway, which is what it will do when the mixture is set properly. For 1/8 scale cars, you will have the correct mixture when the temperature is about 200 degrees. The 1/10 scale cars run a little hotter, maybe around 250 degrees.



Once you think you have the top end set, run 3 or 4 laps, then stop the car close to you on the track and let it idle for 5 seconds, then "push off". It should have slightly loaded up, but still accelerate quickly. If the engine died before the 5 seconds, check the following:

If the engine seemed to load up and slowly stop, it was probably too rich.

If the engine’s idle speed increased before it stopped, it was probably too lean.



Always run a few laps before testing bottom end and idle. Ron likes his car to idle clean for 5 seconds, but by 6 or 7 seconds his engine loads up when he punches off (heavy smoke with a slight stumble). At this point you may have to re-adjust the engine’s idle speed. If the idle speed is too high, the clutch will not release completely and you will lose "snap" off the corners. If the idle speed is too low, the engine may stall on the starting line, or at the end of the straightaway when you let off the throttle.



Things to Remember:

1 - Never try to tune a cold engine!
2 - Adjust top end first
3 - Always tune from rich to lean. If in doubt, richen it up first.


Your glow plug wire should stay bright like chrome. If it turns dull, or gray, the engine was probably too lean on top or bottom, or both. Note: wire may also distort or be burned up if it’s too lean. If glow wire is still shiny like new, but distorted, you may have to add a 0.004" shim or use a lower percentage of nitro.

Over 99% of all engine complaints are usually related to the tuning of the engine or clutch.

[offroadcrazy01]

Tuning tech: carb Needle balance
We get dozens of tuning questions from around the world at Paris racing daily, The number one questions is, were do I set my needles on the carb?

Unfortunately there is no such thing as a definitive universal setting for any engine!

Every application will have it’s own unique requirements, even two IDENTICAL set ups can and most likely will have at least slightly different settings.

Please see tech tips following the article below [from our web site]

I would like to address what seems to be the # 1 mistake we encounter in engine tuning:

Carburetor Needle balance:
It has come to our attention some racers are making the mistake of setting the idle speed opening to wide [high idle] and setting the bottom end too rich!

This will give a false normal idle speed even though the speed is set to high because it “loads up” the engine with excess fuel causing the idle to be lower than set!

The end result is a very unstable idling engine that surges and may cut out as full throttle is applied because the over rich bottom end can disguise a too lean TOP end setting!!!



Let’s address this a little more in depth!

Idle speed opining set too wide:

It is possible too set the idle screw adjustment in to far but yet the idle speed is not high!

Even though the air regulation [carb barrel or slide] may be set to a position that would normally equal a vary fast idle, the idle is low because the low speed mixture adjustment is set so rich that the engine loads up with excess fuel and the engine goes into what’s commonly called a four cycle idle.

One tell tail sign of this is if after reving up the completely warmed up engine it tends to idle fast for a few seconds then drops to lower idle speed.

[Here we go again with the written sound effects :-)]

Something like da..da..da..da..da..da..da..da then it drops to da….da….da….da [if it were sheet music it would be like dropping from 8 beats per measure to 4 beats per measure]

If you start leaning the bottom end a little at a time [then repeat the reving up and idle test] and it takes longer before the idle drops your going in the right direction!

Eventually as you keep leaning the bottom the idle will stay to high, now it is time to lower the idle to were it belongs by re adjusting the idle screw!

CAUTION!!!!

Now that you have the idle set correctly the top end may be too lean!!!

Keep in mind the fuel does not directly enter the cylinder area like a 4 stroke engine, it enters the crankcase area first then is transferred or pumped up to the cylinder area by the piston movement.

Simply put, the crank case volume can hold much more capacity than the cylinder so it takes some time to burn off the residual fuel.

In other words if the bottom end is to rich the engine will be supplied by this residual fuel briefly and depending on the demand you may be actually be experiencing a lean condition on the top end that can range from:

1. Seems to run well but engine life is short

2. Seems to run well but car continues to get hotter the longer you run to the point of overheat!

3. Seems to run ok on the bottom but sputters starves or strains to gain rpm

4. Seems to run ok on the bottom but when I give full throttle it cuts out or stalls

[An overly rich top end can act the same as 3 & 4 but excessive smoke and oil are usually present with a distinct blubbering sound]



There is no reason for an engine to continually get hotter unless the tune is wrong [classic #2. symptom] or there is a mechanical problem causing more load or drag on the engine as the run continues.

Exception Note: if the weather or track conditions change DRAMATICLY. {Examples**

A light drizzle starts and the off road track goes from a very dry loose to high traction condition, or during a race a rapid weather front like a ten degree change!
It is very important to fully warm up your engine, clutch and chassis before making finale adjustments.

The chassis in most applications also works like a heat sink to the engine so it is important to fully saturate the chassis!!!

I like to start the engine at least 3 or 4 minutes before our qualifier to get some heat in the engine.

[Operate the throttle by hand until you have radio frequency clearance]

It still takes at least 2 to 3 minutes of hard running on the track to fully saturate the chassis!



There is a series of restrictions to control fuel flow at different throttle/air flow positions called needles

These are the five basic parts of the carb to concern yourself with:



1.The slide or barrel [regulates the amount of air to enter the engine controlled by the servo]

It simply blocks off the airflow to the engine proportional to how far it is open or closed.

2. The idle/air speed screw [sets the absolute minimum air the barrel/slide can control to maintain idle speed]

It simply is an adjustment screw that comes in contact with the side at the nearly closed/idle position.

3. The high speed needle [regulates maximum fuel flow allowed to enter engine at any throttle position]

It simply is a tapered needle that screws into the fuel flow orifice [an adjustable restriction]

This maximum fuel flow ideally is adjusted to the correct mixture ratio for the surrounding conditions at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE or WOT

There are two more devices’ the low speed or minimum spray bar and the mid range needle that restrict or control the fuel further at less than full throttle.

4. The low speed needle [regulates fuel to engine at idle]

The low speed adjustment simply restricts the flow at idle speed.

If you look down the bore of the carb you will see a long tapered needle [except for Picco torque carbs]

When the carb barrel/slide is closed the larger part or diameter portion of the long tapered needle is inserted into the spray bar, this is what’s adjusted when you turn the low speed/minimum adjustment.

It literally moves either the tapered needle OR spray bar farther in or out changing the restriction independent of the barrel/side position.

This leans [more restriction] or richens [less restriction] the flow from the spray bar at idle.

NOTE: some carbs the spray bar is moved and others the needle assembly is moved, both have the same effect.

5. The mid range needle [regulates fuel to engine after idle and before full fuel position.

Notice as you open and close the carb the tapered needle [mentioned above in item 4.] enters into a small tube this is called the spray bar/jet.

This spray bar is were ALL the fuel enters the airflow stream regulated by the high speed, mid range and idle/minimum adjustments!

Normally somewhere between ½ and ¾ throttle open position the needle is completely out of the spray bar, This is what is called full fuel position or FFP [at this point 100% of the mixture is controlled by the high speed needle.

On many carbs the low speed and midrange are not independently adjustable so the mid rage is a factor of the needle taper and is engineered by the factory.

On some SLIDE carbs there is both independent spray bar and mid range needle adjustments. CAUTION: be very careful with these type carbs!!!

You can identify them easily because there are four adjusting screws! {Continued on page 2**







Page 1









One each for the:

High speed/top end [normally sticks up some what vertical]

Idle/air speed [normally a much smaller screw entering the carb at an angle]

Low speed/minimum [located in the end of the slide OR on the opposite end of the carb body]

Midrange [also located in the end of the slide OR on the opposite end of the carb body]

Note: if there are adjustments on both the slide and the carb body one is an adjustable mid range and the other the low speed!!! Check with the engine manufacture before attempting to adjust these types of carbs!

It is very important not to use the mid screw to adjust the low end by mistake; it is very easy to get the carb way out of sync.

Normally I recommend not attempting to adjust the mid range even if your carb is so equipped, the gains are VERY small and mostly limited to minute midrange drivability/economy changes that only the most sophisticated driver will recognize!

The negative is a carb that is so screwed up only an expert can get it back in tune!

Please note the above descriptions will apply to 99% of the modern car carbs being manufactured as of this writing with the exception of the Picco TORQUE carb that use’s no mid range needle at all.

It utilizes a fuel management ramp built into the slide; the carb also has two completely independent fuel delivery spray bars/jets.

I wish I could tell every one exactly how to tune their engine but I cannot!

My hope with this article is if I can help racers to more understand How your carb works, all the other instructions and guides will make more sense!

Best Regards,

Ron

Paris Engine Tuning Tech Tips From Our Web Site:



Should I seal the carb with silicone?

Many racers find this a must! [Particularly in off road] Here are a few tips.

1** Be sure to use ONLY non-volatile silicone [it should say oxygen sensor safe on the tube!] you can find it at any auto parts store.

2** Use sparingly, apply a thin bead on the carb neck just below the main carb body [even if there is an o-ring present.

Do not put it in the engine case bore or all around the carb neck. [That would glue the carb into the engine for good!]

You just want a thin bead to squish out from between the engine case and carb body just as you fully insert the carb.

3** After positioning the carb were you want it tighten the pinch bolt assembly that holds the carb very snug!

Then add a dab of silicone to both ends of the pinch bolt assembly.

4** Let fully cure before staring engine.

Optimal carburetor settings:

There is no such thing with any size or brand engine that has a predetermined optimal carb. Setting! If there were, all engines would come without adjustments. There are many variables that must be taken into consideration. Glow plug, fuel type and nitro, manifold type and length, pipe type and were the pressure filing is, clutch adjustment, gear ratios, tire size, ambient humidity, temperature and altitude etc, etc, etc.

The point I'm trying to make is no one can tell you were to “set the Carb” only some one they’re with you can fine-tune it! BUT IT IS NOT THAT HARD IT ONLY SOUNDS COMPLICATED. 95% of all problems are that the directions were not followed correctly.



Ideal engine temperature:

First let me say that there is no IDEAL temperature for any engine.

There are many variables that affect it; Ambient temp, fuel type and nitro content, altitude & barometric pressure, Pipe/manifold type and setting, clutch setting, glow-plug, gear ratio, available traction, How hard your driving, on road or off road Etc. Etc.

All information is based on the Paris/Exergin probe; it is the only probe designed for model engines and has worldwide patented Emisivity compensation. We tested dozens of devices before we started working with Exergin and introduced infrared tuning to the model industry.

All of the following conditions MUST be met before any temperature can be considered correct, the engine is assumed to be in good shape.

1** There must be a visible trail of smoke when accelerating from EVERY corner.

2** The idle is stable.

3** The glow plug wire stays somewhat shiny and the coil stays round [UN-distorted]

4** The performance is good.

Picco on road average conditions 20 to 40% nitro 205 to 230 degrees f

Picco off road average conditions 20 to 30% nitro 215 to 250 degrees f

Nova on road average conditions 20 to 40% nitro 220 to 260 degrees f

Nova off road average conditions 20 to 30% nitro 230 to 270 degrees f

How to “READ” your glow plug:

OS and Turbo glow plugs go gray sooner [easier] than McCoy plugs; this is not necessarily bad. Actually when A new plug wire just goes slightly gray after a 5 or 10 minute hard run it means your very close to an optimal horsepower tune, but be careful the next step is TOO LEAN!

My rule of thumb.

1** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum power 85%

2** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%

3** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted optimum power 100%

4** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = slightly lean DANGER!

5** Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = extremely lean possible engine damage!

Note: You can only “Read” your plug in a nearly new state [Wire like new and shiny] A gray plug can still operate well. After it has totally gone gray, performance can start to fall off. To test just put in a new plug and if there is no difference in performance save the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or run right tray a new plug before making major tune changes

Effects of changing manifold to pipe length:

Rule of thumb:

Longer manifold = more bottom end torque. [At the expense of some rpm]

Shorter manifold = more top end rpm [at the expense of some torque]

BUT you can go to far with either direction causing the engine to run erratic or HOT! You must keep it in the “sweet spot”

Bottom line: there is no set length for every engine or pipe, experiment with the length to suit your driving style or track needs.



Does it mater were you put the pressure fitting in your pipe:

If you’re talking about a single chamber pipe like the Associated or Paris AL12T no big deal.

But if you’re talking a two-chamber pipe, and you go from one chamber to the other you will have to re tune the engine.

Even then it is not a big deal once it is tuned for that location there is little if any performance difference. [It is all relative to available pressure Vs needle setting] I recommend tapping into the first chamber on two chamber pipes [the intake side] were the pipe is at its largest diameter. The second chamber has more constant pressure but can be more difficult to tune in high altitude or fast changing weather conditions {Countinued on page 3**



Page 2






How to shut off you engine and stop runaways:
If the engine is out of control and at high RPM DO NOT USE YOUR HAND on the flywheel!
Some guy’s flip the car over and stick the toe of their shoe on the flywheel! I have seen it work but 50% of the time the engine lets go before you can stop it! The method I like is as follows:

Try and hold the car down hard so the wheels can’t spin [this may waste the clutch shoes but it is cheaper than an engine!] Yank the body if you can’t get to the air cleaner, then yank the air cleaner and put your finger on the carb intake. It is kinda like handling a wild animal but it is a good method.

Do not just push your finger down on the foam air cleaner, which will suck all the dirt into the engine! Holding a rag on the exhaust works too [if you happen to have one handy] but, Be sure there is several layers of rag it will take more than a few seconds to choke it And it will be HOT HOT HOT!

If the engine is idling normally, I just touch the flywheel with the handle of an old screwdriver!
Ron’s tips for healthy Fuel:
I always shake my fuel because some oil separation is common especially with higher nitro but I mostly shake it to re oxygenate the nitro [old habit from topfuel/funny car days] Water absorption Is the #1 reason for “Bad” fuel! And is little affected by any nitro or oil/additive package. The methanol is what’s so hydroscopic <Spelling? > [Water magnet] My advice as always.

1 Never leave the bottle open any longer than it takes to fill your fuel bulb.

2 never leave the FUEL BULB uncapped any longer than it takes to fill the car.

3 always rinse out you fuel bulb at the start of each day with a little fresh fuel.

4 NEVER draw fuel back into your bulb or put it back in the jug.

5 keep your fuel out of direct sunlight and off the ground.

6 store your fuel in a stable temperature.

7 I like to squeeze the extra air out of the bottle before tightening the lid.

8 Some times it is handy to save some 1/2 gallon or quart bottles to transfer to as you the Gallon remember to rinse them out with a little fresh fuel first.

If you follow these simple steps your day will never be ruined by bad fuel.

Will it hurt my engine to run it out of fuel:

My opinion is if your engine was tuned correctly, to start with it will not harm it running out of fuel!

I have done this hundreds of times with no damage even in our killer engines.

If just before running out of fuel the car was tuned:

1** Tuned Slightly rich, it will speed up for a brief moment just before it dies as you pass through the “Ideal performance” mixture stage.

2** Tuned for ideal performance, it will fall off in power just before it dies as it passes through the too lean stage.

3** Tuned too lean to start with, it will bog down noticeably and may blow the plug as it pass though the “way to lean you just screwed up stage”.

This can cause some damage to the piston and sleeve if the element wire breaks and falls in to the engine.

However, the brief lean moment should not hurt the bearings, bushings, rod, crank etc. if you’re using high quality fuel [especially a high castor blend like Bluethunder race formula]

Is it ok to switch nitro content or brands of fuel?

There are many opinions on this subject; I feel there are no problems doing either!

The most important thing is to use a good quality fuel!

Personally, I break our engines in on the same nitro we race with, but have had equally good results either way!

The only recommendation I would make is, if you do switch brands it would not hurt to:

1** Let the engine idle a few minutes before you go out on the track.

2** Run ½ to 1 tank of fuel on the rich side.

3** Check your glow plug and if it looks good fine tune and go for it.

The reason I say to check the plug is that different fuels have different oil additives and detergent packages.

This may wash away some of the built up oil deposits and platelets or bonding agents [As the oil companies call them] and foul the plug.

After a few runs your new fuel will leave deposits of there own, some brands you can see the residue because of its blue or red color.

Other brands you can’t see because they’re a light yellow or amber color but rest assured it's there!

It is normal to have these build-ups and it cause’s no harm!

What is the best Fuel?

Blue Thunder Race Formula [Paris/Blend] Has a High castor to synthetic ratio. Castor oil is simply the best lube available for model engines [Alberto Picco and Mario Rossi agree] but not all castors are the same! We use the finest ultra Pure Triple A refined castor. Then we add a synthetic supplement package, which includes anti foaming and rust properties. There is also a wetting agent to aid in Lubricity and reduce storage dry out. The fuel is manufactured with the latest high tech computer controlled mixing equipment; using the freshest lab tested and certified USA made nitro and methanol by the largest manufacture of model fuel in the world.

Should I use after run oil:

Race Formula Blue Thunder is a high castor blend that includes 3% Synthetic with anti gumming agents.

It is always a good idea to use some after run oil.

First let the tank run completely empty at idle until it runs out of fuel [try re-starting it several times]

Next put a few drops down the carb [open] and a few drops down the glow Plug hole [leave the plug out and put a rag over the top of the engine]

And spin it over for 5 seconds on the starter box.

Last put a few more drops down the carb re install the glow pug and spin The engine over 5 more seconds.

That will do it!

We May be releasing a after run oil but in the meantime Marvel Mystery oil works great and can be had at any automotive or hardware store.

Other substitutes would be automatic Trans fluid, 3in1 oil or Mineral oil from the drug store! NEVER USE ANY OILS THAT CONTAINE SILICONES!!!

Cleaning your Engine:

First, follow the after run oil instructions above!

Remove the engine from the car, you can then wash it off just be careful not to wash dirt into the front bearing [even if it has a rubber sealed type]

I brush it off behind the flywheel then rap a strip of cloth around the crank, “wedging” it between the front of the engine and back of the flywheel.

I then plug the carb and exhaust [be sure there is a glow plug installed] then squirt it off with methanol or denatured alcohol

[Not Isopropyl it is 30% water]

I do not recommend brake cleaner or motor spray.

Then blow of off with compressed air if you do not have compressed air shake the engine vigorously and blow it off until dry with a hair dryer, being careful not to get it HOT just warm to the touch.

Last I remove the strip of cloth let the engine come to ambient temp [so there is no condensation formed inside] and put it in a zip lock bag or re-install in your car!

You can see many other useful tech tips at the Paris web site http://parisracing.com [go to tech tips on third page]



Good luck and enjoy your new Paris Racing Engine,

Ron Paris

Page 3



Engine Break In And Tuning For The New and Experienced Racer:

Revised 12-30-99

Engine Break in for the for the New Racer:



I was honored when the gang at R/C Car magazine asked if I would collaborate on a tuning article geared to the new and hobby racers!

With the continued growth of 1/10 off road and Explosion of sedan racers, there was a need for a generic tuning guide.

Well here it is, it was very informative as written by the gang at the magazine, I simply added a few tips and clarifications based on the hundreds of tech questions we receive.

Enjoy,

-Ron

How to Break In your New Engine

Patience is the secret to success!



If you’ve read a few issues of this magazine, you’ve probably noticed that we devote quite a few pages each month to nitro-powered vehicles and accessories. Critics might say that we prefer nitro over electric powered, but the truth is that we are simply covering what’s going on in the R/C industry—nitro is hot at the moment, and we’d be failing you if we didn’t provide comprehensive coverage!

Surely, one of the reasons for nitro’s popularity rests in the quality of the engines themselves. Most of today’s engines are manufactured to be easy to use and to maintain, and many sport-level powerplants have been designed to be incredibly user-friendly. For absolute novices, we still recommend electric-power over nitro, but if you should decide to take the plunge, you’ll find that most engines are quite easy to get running.

Above all else, your success or failure with a nitro engine depends on how well it’s been broken in—and this is entirely up to you and the amount of patience you have. The more time you take to properly break-in your new engine, the better it will run. A well broken-in engine will develop more power and higher rpm, and will run much more consistently than an engine that had been rushed into race settings.

.



It’s all in the carb

Everything that’s needed to ensure your engine’s long life is contained in its carburetor. Most carbs have three adjustments that you’ll need to familiarize yourself with: The first, and most important, is the high-speed needle setting. This needle valve controls the mixture of fuel and air that enters the engine’s combustion chamber during high-rpm running. More fuel in this mixture causes a “rich” condition, while less fuel (more air) causes a “lean” condition. A richer high-speed needle setting will actually help keep the engine running cooler as it reduces rpm, and because there is more fuel passing through the combustion chamber, a bit of “liquid cooling” actually takes place. A leaner setting will allow the engine to achieve higher rpm, but will also cause it to run hotter.

A properly set high-speed needle will provide a compromise between a cool temperature and high rpm. Needless to say (but we’ll remind you anyway), extremes in either direction aren’t good, but nobody ever blew up their engine by running it too rich!

Many racing engines also have a secondary needle-valve adjustment that is used to control the engine’s low-speed fuel/air mixture. This needle is used to adjust the way the engine makes the transition from low to high rpm. It also helps control the fuel mixture when the engine is idling. A low-speed needle setting that is rich will reduce throttle response at low rpm, and may make the car sluggish coming out of tight turns. A leaner setting will allow the engine to make more power during low rpm operation.

Many modern sport-type nitro engines have eliminated the low-speed needle entirely. While this doesn’t allow for the highest level of tuning for the experience racer, having one fewer needle to fuss with does make these engines much more user-friendly to the beginner, who only need set the high-speed needle.

Finally, there’s the idle-stop screw. Basically, this screw is used to keep the carb’s slide or barrel from becoming totally closed (which would stop the engine from running). A small opening of the carb allows just enough air and fuel to mix and keep the engine running. Setting the idle is usually done after you’ve properly set both the high- and low-speed needles.



Where to begin? Read the book!

Before you even place your nitro car on a starter box or yank its pull-starter, read the instruction manual that came with your engine or car kit. Most nitro kits’ manuals have a section that will tell you approximately where the carburetor’s needle settings should be for initial start up. We have found that higher-end (more expensive) engines tend to follow the instruction’s settings more closely, which means that when the manual says to set the high-end needle at three turns out from closed, this is almost exactly where the engine will run best for break-in.

For sport-type engines, the needle position that allows the engine to fire and run may be quite different from what’s recommended in the manual. In our experience, if a sport engine won’t fire, leaning the high-speed needle in small increments will get it going. Once the engine fires and runs consistently, we will usually richen the needle back to where the instructions recommend. Never run a new engine, or even an older one, too lean!



Your new engine’s first run

We know that you want to go out and do some hot laps the instant your new engine fires to life—but don’t! The first few runs of your new engine are critical. Once your engine starts, place the car on a stand so that its wheels can’t touch the ground. Let the engine idle at low rpm for a few minutes (two or three minutes will do), then shut the engine down and let it cool.

During this procedure, it’s also important that the piston not be at the top of the cylinder while the engine is cooling. Part of what’s taking place during break-in is that the engine’s mating parts are being heat-cycled—they’re expanding when the engine is hot and contracting when it cools. Heat cycling stabilizes the metal and allows mating parts to fit better against each other. Keeping the piston out of the upper portion of the cylinder (which is smaller in diameter than the lower portion in order to create a better seal during combustion) will allow the cylinder to properly contract as it cools—without interference from the piston. To figure out where the piston is in relation to the cylinder, just turn the flywheel—it will become difficult to turn when the piston is at the top of the cylinder, where the fit between the piston and cylinder is its tightest. Just turn the flywheel until the piston is in the middle of its “easy turning” part.

Now you’re ready to lay down some horsepower, right? Wrong! Repeat the above steps three or four more times.



Yes, you can drive it now

After you’ve heat-cycled your engine, you can finally put it on the track. But don’t get too excited yet—you must run it with a very rich high-speed needle setting. Some engine experts recommend that, during break-in, the engine be set rich enough so that it will actually four-cycle instead of two (our nitro engines are two-cycle, which means that the fuel/air mixture is ignited once for every two strokes of the piston). Four cycling means that the engine is actually only firing one time for every four strokes of the piston. In this condition, all of the unburned fuel passing through the combustion chamber takes heat (and any tiny metal particles created during the breaking-in process) right out to the exhaust pipe!

Do you really need to run the engine this rich? Well, the experts know their stuff, but we have broken in dozens of new engines without actually allowing them to four stroke. Whether or not you four-stroke your engine during break-in is entirely up to you—just make absolutely certain that the high-speed needle is set very rich: lots of blue smoke should be coming from the exhaust, and the engine should sound “blubbery.”

During this procedure, it’s vital that you avoid prolonged use of full throttle, which could strain the engine. You should instead “blip” the throttle as you drive the car to avoid spending too much time in one particular rpm range.

Run the engine using these settings for three or four tankfuls of fuel, allowing the engine to cool in between runs.



Now comes the good part!

Once you’ve put about six to eight tanks of fuel through the engine (as outlined above), it’s time to begin leaning the high-speed needle and making some power! Begin by leaning the high-speed needle (by turning it inward, or clockwise) by about one-hour (if you imagine the needle as a clockface, one full turn of the needle would equal 12 hours). Run the car for a minute or so, then bring it back in and lean the needle by another one hour increment. Repeat this process until the engine begins to achieve good rpm, but it shouldn’t be allowed to “scream” quite yet. The engine should still be creating lots of blue smoke from its exhaust.

Before you achieve that screaming race setting, we recommend that you run your engine for a few more tankfuls in this “almost race” setting. Once you get the needle set to where your engine is making good rpm, richen it (by turning the needle counter-clockwise) by about a quarter of a turn—this is your final setting.



The final steps

Once you’ve found a good setting for the high-speed needle that allows the engine to make good power yet still push plenty of blue smoke from the exhaust (especially when the car exits a turn), it’s time to set the low-end needle and the idle-stop screw.

Most engine manufacturers recommend a specific setting for the idle-stop screw, and they’re usually well within the ballpark. For now, set the idle-stop screw so that the engine will idle at a moderate rpm without stalling.

Bring the engine up to operating temperature by driving it for a few minutes. Now stop the car and listen to the engine’s idle speed. If the engine idles fast but then slows down in just a few seconds, the low-speed needle is probably set too rich. Lean the low-speed needle (by turning it clockwise in one-hour increments) until, after running a few more laps, the idle stays high for about twenty seconds or so when you stop the car. Once you’ve done this, use the idle-stop screw to make the final adjustment of the idle speed.

For sport engines which lack a low-speed needle, the idle-stop screw is the only method of adjusting the engine’s idle speed. For these engines, simply turn the idle-screw clockwise to increase idle speed, and counterclockwise to reduce the idle speed.

Setting your engine’s idle speed isn’t a contest to see how low you can get it without stalling the engine! Your goal when setting the idle should be to allow the engine to run at moderate rpm without the clutch being engaged whatsoever. Your car should be able to sit at a standstill when idling. If you have to hold the brake, the idle is too high. If you have to blip the throttle to prevent stalling the engine, the idle it too low.



Enjoy your new engine!

Nitro powered R/C vehicles can be tons of fun, or they can cause tons of frustration. The difference between success or failure lies with the break-in process. If you follow these steps, have patience, and use your noggin, you’re assured of success. Rushing through the break-in procedure or worse, forgettting it altogether, is a recipe for disaster.

Tuning your engine is the hardest part of nitro racing. But once you’ve learned how the carburetor works, and which screw does what, it will all become second nature. So when you’re running your car, you’ll always know exactly what to adjust to gain the highest level of performance possible.



(sidebar)

THE FOUR RULES OF ENGINE TUNING

1. Rich is good. Blue smoke should always be coming from the exhaust.

2. Always set the high-speed needle first

3. Never try to tune a cold engine—wait for it to get up to operating temperature.

4. Always begin your engine tuning from a rich high-speed needle setting. Never start out with a lean setting.



Tuning all carburetors and Engines for the experienced racer:
1 when starting a new engine follow the set up instructions first! Start the engine and let idle at a moderate speed for two or three minutes. Then shut it down and let it cool for a few minutes. Be sure the piston is not at the top. Repeat this procedure three or four times.



2 Now run the engine on the track, making sure the engine is rich. You should hear a “four cycle” sound. Be sure to let off the throttle going down the straightaway once or twice so the engine is not straining in its rich condition. Repeat this procedure for three or four tanks of fuel, letting the engine cool several minutes between tanks. Also, check the glow plug often. It should look new (shiny wire that is not distorted).



3 You can now start leaning [turn clockwise] the maximum needle a little at a time in one hour increments [imagine the needle like the hour hand of a clock] checking the glow plug often. [I use a glow igniter with a meter on it] I recommend running a few more tanks a little on the rich side before “Race tuning” When tuning for maximum performance [Race tune] adjust until engine will reach Good RPM then open needle 1/8 to 1/4 turn.



4 set the low end or idle:

4.1 After getting top end set close, bring model in, listen to the idle. If it is idling fast then it slows down in a few seconds, it is probably too RICH on the bottom (minimum spray bar). In that case, make it more lean (turn clockwise ¼ turn), then run another lap and bring the car in again.

4.2 Repeat this procedure until the idle stays high for at least 10 to 20 seconds; at this point readjust the aircrew so the idle is at a moderate speed. The wheels should not turn, and the clutch should be fully disengaged.

4.3 If you had to turn the minimum spray bar in more than two or three more turns recheck the slide adjustment! [Picco Torque carburetor only]



5 you may need to repeat steps 3 and 4 several times to achieve the “perfect tune”

Be patient. Tuning is the hardest part of gas racing, and is the first secret to race winning results. If you are a beginner, it is highly recommended that you ask your hobby shop or an experienced modeler for help.

Three last tips

1 Be sure engine is warmed up before tuning



2 always tune from rich to lean. When in doubt, richen up the maximum needle (top end)



3 If you have to turn minimum spray bar (low end) in more than three to four turns from flush, it is a indication the slide adjustment is too loose and needs resetting (Picco Torque carburetor only).





Good Racing,

Ron Paris

Paris racing products

[rocknbil]

offroad . . most of us have been to that page, and many times, a link would serve you just as well.

[dog8spam]

Id say thats the longest post Ive seen.

Does anyone have DuBro captured ends? If so what length turnbuckles do you use?

[1tuffRC10]

I just use Traxxas ends with the stock Lunsford turnbuckles. Work good for me.

[offroadcrazy01]

just trying to help my bad

[AznJunkie]

offroadcrazy01 – Thank you for the info. I found it very informative. I haven’t seen that page before. A link would be nice, so I can have it for future reference.

As for my GT, I went to the track yesterday. I still had the same problem stated before. Then I ask a guy that I met there if he can help me. He made some adjustments and he help me fix my idle problem. It was much better than how I had it. Since I don’t have the high idle problem, I can now jump better and it doesn’t rev when my car is flip.

[br1ev8]

I took it out of the box and was looking it over and noticed a problem. I haven't even cranked the truck yet. Problem is that the truck's left rear shock absorber is leaking shock fluid. Its pretty bad. I don't think there is any fluid left in it. Anyone else had this problem before? What shoud I do? Call AE/Tower Hobbies and have them send me a new shock or should I just fix it myself?

[xpressgt]

Originally posted by br1ev8
I took it out of the box and was looking it over and noticed a problem. I haven't even cranked the truck yet. Problem is that the truck's left rear shock absorber is leaking shock fluid. Its pretty bad. I don't think there is any fluid left in it. Anyone else had this problem before? What shoud I do? Call AE/Tower Hobbies and have them send me a new shock or should I just fix it myself?


i would just fix it your self it will only take cuple of min but call tower and ae tell them about the problum the thing is that most of the rtr that are sold need to br re done becouse they come off a asembly line and things can be mis placed

[1tuffRC10]

br1ev8, check it over real hard. The last "team built" AE I saw had no slipper pad and no foams in the rear tires. Also bushings in the gear box instead of bearings. Too bad they don't offer the kits anymore.

[rocknbil]

....A link would be nice ...

http://www.parisracing.com/

[Nitro41]

Originally posted by br1ev8
I took it out of the box and was looking it over and noticed a problem. I haven't even cranked the truck yet. Problem is that the truck's left rear shock absorber is leaking shock fluid. Its pretty bad. I don't think there is any fluid left in it. Anyone else had this problem before? What shoud I do? Call AE/Tower Hobbies and have them send me a new shock or should I just fix it myself?


Same thing happened to my gt rtr. The shock had no fluid before I first ran the truck. If I am going to spend over $200 on a truck, I think it shouldn't break untill I drive it.:D

[nitrodude_1]

I have done so much work to my truck I have bought over 200.00 in parts and spare parts. It was race befor but it is race now. bought all carbon fiber factory team parts, all rpm parts, mip parts, losi shocks, all robinson racing gears, tons of proline stuff. I spurged AND BOUGHT THE WORKS. I need a engine now!

[fasteddie9111]

hi,
i was wondering how necessary is it to run the nose tube braces on the truck if its only driven onroad? Also, has anyone experiemented with moving the battery pack around on the truck? If so, where did you move it and what were the results? thanks.

[nitrodude_1]

u need the nose tube brace on your truck. u hit anything and it is bye bye to your chassis and the hole front end and also the battery dose not really make a difference were you put it but. you have a rear bumper so may as well use it

[The King]

I am going to race my GT next summer. I was wondering if the bright the paintjob the better or will something like this be ok?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1258226#post1258226

You will have to scroll to the top

[nitrodude_1]

wow that paint job blinded me. for me it is a little to much I like the simple paint jobs better. I would prefer my paint job better. I have a croud pleazer body with parma aggrivated flames painted with a candy Blue dark to light with a indy silver back ground now that took me about a day. looks awsome.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by The King
....I was wondering if the bright the paintjob the better or will something like this be ok?....

Aesthetically, I wouldn't race that, you've got a lot of time into it and it will get thrashed, keep it for show or practice.

Practically, brighter colors tends to make you more visible on the track and easier to tell the truck's attitude in the distance or in with a crowd, so race with a plain bright color, it will help keep you on your toes.

Originally posted by fasteddie9111
...i was wondering how necessary is it to run the nose tube braces on the truck if its only driven onroad?...

An additional plus with the tubes is it helps reduce front axial flex, making it a little more stable.

[nitrodude_1]

could not of said it better my self

[RC10's]

In regards to the front nose tube mounts, I find them to be a joke. The front end of that chassis is rediculously weak in the first place and just about every GT I have seen has been bent right at that point. The nose tube mounts would be useful if the mounts were metal instead of plastic becuase the plastic just rips apart. I have seen it plenty of times, combinations of bent tubes and broken plastic. I think Trinity makes alimunum mounts for the tubes, which seem like a nice upgrade.

[fasteddie9111]

thanks for the your opinons. i dont know if i mentioned it or not, but my truck is used only onroad, so i dont think that flex and stuff is really as much of an issue, therefore the nose tube braces are not quite as necessary.

[bubbastump]

eddie if the gt is moving and u turn the wheel there is flex it would bend

[Wallis Racing]

Dont be fooled boys,
I dont think there is a way to stop the front from bending. I have the trinity alloy tube mounts, and the HG chassis, which is 8-10mm on the sides, and I bent the sucker in less then 2 weeks. the tubes just squished and are now a S shape. I think the only way to do it would be to grab an alloy front bulk head, alloy mounts, and the GPM Ti tubes and GPM SS screws, and in those 4 parts there is a lot of $$$ but hey... it can only bend so far;) hehe.

on another note, just picked up a digi cam, and just got my order for about $500aus worth of GT parts(all replacements!), so when I'm finished my full rebuild, i will post some pics!

Anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[nitrodude_1]

thanks wallis for the info. I just got a huge load of gt racing parts. everything to make my truck light and fast. I have no major aluminum sticking to carbon fiber and titanium more but I just picked up a hard core racing titanium chassis. very nice. they say it will never bend. I also like the gpm racing nose tube mount and there front bulk head. now that makes for a bullet proof front ends. my whole front end it titanium and carbon fiber and has a couple rpm stuff and rear all rpm and carbon looks wired but strong

[dog8spam]

In regards to the front nose tube mounts, I find them to be a joke.

I think theyre plenty strong. Notice in the pic in front of the mounts is pretty straight even though they did strip out. Behind them was also bent, ruining the fuel tank.
If they were made a little weaker the cassis would bend more up front, only damaging the tube mounts and front servo, which is hurt any way you go because of its location.

[dog8spam]

screw it.
computers suck

[RC10's]

I dont think there is a way to stop the front from bending. I have the trinity alloy tube mounts, and the HG chassis, which is 8-10mm on the sides, and I bent the sucker in less then 2 weeks

I think that sums it up quite nicely. The bottom line is the front end is just not strong enough.

[cbr74]

Want to stop the front end from bending... stop crashing! LOL

I can't say much... I crash all the time, but 3.2mm of titanium chassis doesn't bend.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by RC10's
..... The nose tube mounts would be useful if the mounts were metal instead of plastic....

The original solid chassis RTR rear tube mounts are cast metal, it looks like iron, maybe aluminum.

[roee]

Hey guys,

I was wondering how difficult/awkward would using a slide valve carb be on a RC10GT Factory Team. I'm about to order one to replace my NTC3 and I still got a perfectly good .15CVRX with a 10C carb (slide).

I was hearing that rotary is much better for offroad... is it?

[AznJunkie]

Roee – I’m running a slide carb without any problems. It's not hard to install at all. You should be able to use the linkage that came with the GT. Here’s AE instruction on how to install a slide carb engine: http://www.rc10.com/basicshub/troubleshooting/slidecarb_web.pdf

[roee]

Thanks alot! :)

[dog8spam]

The bottom line is the front end is just not strong enough.

Out of three bent chassis I have NEVER had a problem with the front being too weak.

[RC10's]

If the front end isnt weak, then I assume your 3 bent chassis have bent somehwere besides the front end?

[offroadcrazy01]

I have never had a problem with my chassis bending where are you running your car.The only problen I have ever had was chassis flex.I stop running my truck on the street because it does not stand up to the cubb well ,if you run it at the track there are less thing that will hurt your truck there

[dog8spam]

If the front end isnt weak, then I assume your 3 bent chassis have bent somehwere besides the front end?

Right behind the tube mounts, even on the wide ones the flange is tapering off which makes it weaker than the rest of the chassis.

[nitrodude_1]

dog8 I have had it bend there to. right befor the gas tank right behind the sterring servo. I also took about 1/4 of a pound of today to. bought titanium screws also cut some crap out of the front bulkhead and got titaium and hardended steel gears. any one want gt parts I am the guy to ask

a complete list
front a-arms
rear a-arms
rear bulkhead
front shock tower
rear shock tower
front bumper
rear body mounts
front body mounts
bell crank linkage
bell crank with spring and nut and tube
tranny brace
rear shock mount
rear a-arm mounts
tuned ae pipe
side exhaust manifold
tranny case
front bumper
rear bumper
rear hingpins
steel turnbuckles with rpm ball ends
idel gear
top drive gear
spur gear
rear ehaust couplers
brake disc
2.60:1 rings
large diff balls
thrust washers
reciver holder
for everything probally 90.00 or best offer I would say 90 shipped
plus some screws and clutch disc and pull start flywheel

all been used but some stuff has more ware then others and some is almost new

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
...I stop running my truck on the street because it does not stand up to the cubb well......
AAAAAAAAA-MEN!!!! :D

nitrodude I gotta say - have you tried eBay for selling your stuff? Your Buy Me posts keep coming up here, not that it bothers me (and not that you care if it did) but it seems like you'd have better luck.

[nitrodude_1]

ya tryied ebay no luck. just letin you all know what I have just incase u want somethin.

[The King]

No better place to sell your stuff then in the forum in which you have supplies for. Good luck with your sales

[nitrodude_1]

oh merry christmas hey and if anyone wants a titanium chassis hardcore racing excepts aftermarkets titanium or aluminum parts and you get half of whats it worth for there parts I saved about 70.00 sending them my chassis and old tie rods and stuff like that. oh ya and if u want a snappy truck get the robinson racing gears with the mip diff and thrust ball set. works great. I mean snappy it flys of the line send you all pics when finished

peace out

[RC10's]

the Robinson racing gears, with an MIP diff rebuild kit make for near bullet proof transmission internals.

[nitrodude_1]

I know all I need now is the aluminum gpm tranny case

[rc10gt_cv-r]

I just got a tourq starter box and i can't get it to even to turn over my motor. I'm using and 12 volt battery and i've tried two 7 cell pack.
i need help i want to brake my new O.S. .15 cv-r

[atm92484_3]

First make sure your packs or gel cell are fully charged (gel cell being the better option). Second, try loosening the plug 1 turn while starting the engine then retighten it once the engine is started. Third, be sure to allow the starter wheel to spool up before touching the flywheel to it. I've seen all too many cases where people slam the flywheel onto the starter wheel and don't give it a chance to gain momentum. Not only will this kill your battery but you'll wear out the motor(s) in the box sooner. Fouth, make sure the starter wheel isn't rubbing the chassis any place (look for black marks on the aluminum or rubber shavings). Like not letting the wheel spool up, this wastes power and can wear out the motors. I think Associated started beveling the edges of the chassis around the flywheel but if yours isn't, try beveling the edges with a Dremel or a file. Lastly make sure your engine isn't flooded and your igniter is charged.

Once you get that 15 CV-R broken in, you'll love it. That engine and the GT are a perfect match.

[dog8spam]

I got a 2PL!!! That thing is much nicer than my old Magnum that was falling apart. Also got a high torque steering servo and distortion pedal. My mom had it in the same box as the radio because she thought they went togeather. :D

[rocknbil]

The other most common thing is that the wheel is hitting the chassis, you need to set your pegs so when you put the truck on the box, it hits exactly in the middle of the hole, if the wheel hits the chassis at all it will stop it. Look for rubber marks around the hole.

[AErc10gt]

I need a bit of help......... When I turn my Ace transmitter (the stock one) on, and then my RC10GT, then get the stock AE.15 engine on how come the car moves at about 5MPH. without me pulling the trigger? What do i need to turn or play with to fix problems? Thanks for your support, AErc10gt

[1tuffRC10]

Try turning the trim on your throttle on your radio. If that doesn't help, then set your idle speed a little slower on the carb. Be sure to set these with the engine warmed up. Most engines will idle a little faster when they are cold.

[rocknbil]

According to AE, the car should lurch forward "like an automatic in drive" with the brake off. This is due to the clutch shoes putting centrifugal force on the clutch. Any faster than that you'll need to fiddle with the idle and brake ot get it to where you can hold the brake without it stalling.

[rc10gtroller]

Whats the best place to mount a failsafe? i was thinkin on the side of my throttle servo but i i got hit frm the side do oyu hink it would damage it? Or what about on the inside of the servo nearest the side of the gas tank? I would put it on my reciever but its almost bigger than the reciever of my mx-3 and doesnt fit. Or on my steering servo but in races on quick fill ups it might get splashed wih fuel.

[Polk]

Depending on its size, on top of the tranny case is good. (mounted to the tranny brace with the one and only famous zip-tie :D)

[rc10gtroller]

well the cord the comes out of the failsafe and plugs into the reciever is about an inch long, so it has the mount pretty close

[nitrodude_1]

got my first 200.00 of parts today

[AErc10gt]

I ripped the pull start rope off my engine today.

[nitrodude_1]

thats sucks when that happens eh I had 4 diffrent pulls starts all from diffrent engine and I combinded them all to make 1 indestructible pull start hehehe

[The King]

Does anybody want to buy this body? I am selling if for $25.00

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=150982

[Strike 4]

I just got 2 tubs how can I put NTC3 tires/axels on one of them?

[AErc10gt]

Anyone know of handheld starters for RC10GT? Part # or product name and a website. Thanks.

[Polk]

HG make a drill start attachment but thats all I know of...

[Strike 4]

Ok I found out how to do it I am going to make a custom hub attachment and I figure the tire will hit the arm so I will make it long and cut a bit of the hole on the tire to make it fit a 11/32. What do you think?

[nitrodude_1]

king I just realised that u could not race with that body anyways the windows are all painted in. happy new years

[The King]

Originally posted by nitrodude_1
king I just realised that u could not race with that body anyways the windows are all painted in. happy new years

I dont know about your track but I can race it at my track:)

[microrcdude]

Originally posted by nitrodude_1
king I just realised that u could not race with that body anyways the windows are all painted in. happy new years
That depnds on what track your at. It's not like that on all tracks.

[nitrodude_1]

what
crappy for me then

[1tuffRC10]

ROAR rules leaves it up to race director, I believe. I've never heard anything about my stock Evader body. It has black stickers for windows. Not sure why they want clear windows. Realisim I guess.

[Mystracing]

The application of ROAR rules is up to the race director at club and state level races, and to some extent regionals. At most regionals and the nationals the windows can't be painted unless the body is straight off an RTR. The reason is to make it easier for the race staff to tech the vehicles. On a vehicle like a touring car or buggy spot checking the batteries for instance would require taking the body off if the windows are painted.

[tl_ke_racer]

well im finall decidin to get a rc10gt after thinkin long and hard on what to get im gettin teh rc10gt plus seems like a good deal, is this a good truck out fo the box, is it durable, fast, and fun? i was thinkin of gettin a duratrax but thsi seemed liek it had more after market support did i make the right choice becuase im orderin soon off of tower hobbies like a matter of minutes liek 30 mins, just wanna make sure im gettin somthin good,.

[nitrodude_1]

i'll sell u my 10gt cheap it comes with everything except radio and engine.

[tl_ke_racer]

lol thats ok i need it rtr and i would lieka good new one.

[tl_ke_racer]

i finally broke down n spent all my bday money on a rtr rc10gt plus (hope it was worth it) looks like a nice truck, its gettin here in a week will post some pics then.:D :cool:

[Wallis Racing]

hey all,
just got some pics of my GT

http://wallisracing.itgo.com/images/9th%20december%2003/GT,%20body%20on,%20front%20right.JPG

http://wallisracing.itgo.com/images/9th%20december%2003/GT%20body%20on,%20front.JPG

http://wallisracing.itgo.com/images/9th%20december%2003/GT%20and%20micro.JPG

http://wallisracing.itgo.com/images/9th%20december%2003/GT,%20naked,%20left%20side.JPG

http://wallisracing.itgo.com/images/9th%20december%2003/GT,%20naked,%20right%20side.JPG

http://wallisracing.itgo.com/images/9th%20december%2003/tires%20an%20rims.JPG

My RB X12... yeah, i guess you can tell its been through the wars just by looking at it... them bent fins are from a tree stump, 3 meters high landed straight on the head :D
http://wallisracing.itgo.com/images/9th%20december%2003/RB%20X12.JPG

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[Wallis Racing]

My custom wing and rear bumper job... attached

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[bubbastump]

nice lookin bash mobile
im too ashamed to show mine

[Spraguepsycho1]

I just painted a new body for mine after Xmas, and added a new set of front tires and Sand Paws on chrome HPI wheels so it looks better than it ever has. Unfortunately my daughter decided to take my digital camera to school and it seems she lost it.:mad:

[mississippi]

Need some help guys.

I have a FT GT, setup with a pullstart. Tired of my one way bearing slipping. So can i use a starter box with my pullstart motor mounts and pullstart flywheel? It looks like it sits low enough where the wheel will hit it and will work. So will it work guys?

Thanks

[Polk]

You can yes, but it will be tricky...

[mississippi]

Would you explain "it will be tricky" that is not nearly enough information for me to make my decision on.

Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Theres nothing tricky about it. It will work just like a non-pullstart with the box engine except it will sit a little higher and have a larger flywheel.

[mississippi]

Thanks alot ATM, I really appreciate it, I really do.

AJ

[rocknbil]

What he means by trickiy is that the business edge of the pullstart flywheel is thinner than a non-ps flywheel, so there's less surface area for the starter box wheel to grip on. Many people have a hard enough time with the non-ps flywheel.

What you have to do is make sure the pegs are set up so when you put the truck on the box, the wheel goes exactly in the center hole, it cannot touch the chassis anywhere or it will stall the S.B. without starting the truck. Also it requires the right motions - let the box rev up and just bump the flywheel against it, not push down until it stalls.

You get a little better "grip" on a non-ps flywheel, but because it's also a smaller diameter, this requires removing the P.S., affixing a new backplate to the engine (at the very least,) and using a non-PS engine mount to lower the engine.

[Wallis Racing]

HEY HEY!
Some of you may remember i promised a kickass movie, and here it is!

Introducing you to the latest Juls Creations master piece! any old schoolers that had HPI's should remember Juls, he had that sick EMT and a few other cars. He was one of the founders of RCmovies.com (http://www.rcmovies.com) until the success of EMT conspiracy brought the place down :rolleyes:

Well here is the newest, GT moshings, 36.3MB, 4:35min of serious RC'n
check it out if you know whats good for you:
GT Moshings (http://www.radiomodels.com.au/downloads/gtmoshings.zip)

BTW, its a Zip file because it contains a codec that enables it to play in widescreen!

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[sLiTcH]

I'm about to buy a RC10 GT Factory for non pull start engine. Anyone here knows if the factory kit comes with a manifoold for rear exhaust and the linkage for slide carbs ?

[rc10gtroller]

i have the non-pull ft gt. I comes with a sheet that shows how to set it up for a slide carb and the linkages are the same for rotory i think. But it doesnt come with a rear exhuast manifold!

[sLiTcH]

well on my xxx-nt the rotarey needed a Z-bended rod whikle the slide carb needed a straight rod with a small ball cup. is there a small ball cuip included with the GT FT

[Polk]

Originally posted by Wallis Racing
HEY HEY!
Some of you may remember i promised a kickass movie, and here it is!

Introducing you to the latest Juls Creations master piece! any old schoolers that had HPI's should remember Juls, he had that sick EMT and a few other cars. He was one of the founders of RCmovies.com (http://www.rcmovies.com) until the success of EMT conspiracy brought the place down :rolleyes:

Well here is the newest, GT moshings, 36.3MB, 4:35min of serious RC'n
check it out if you know whats good for you:
GT Moshings (http://www.radiomodels.com.au/downloads/gtmoshings.zip)

BTW, its a Zip file because it contains a codec that enables it to play in widescreen!

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)


DUDE!!!!!!!!! Thats the most kicking GT video EVER!!!!!!!!!


Awsome work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:cool: :cool: :cool:

[sLiTcH]

Are the a-arms in the GT Factory made of grpahite or simple plastic. and are the shocks threaded ?

[tl_ke_racer]

dude that was a sweet video nice job, loved that back flips, cant wait till thursday when my rc10gt plus gets here.:D

[Wallis Racing]

Thanx guys,
ill pass the comment bout the movie on!

i love this hobby!

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[drrcluva]

Hey guys, I just ordered a FT GT. I had one a couple years ago and sold it, missed it ever since.
I was trying to remember things I had done to the other one and wondering if you guys had any input. I did go ahead and order two things with it that I knew I would want. An aluminum brake hub and a 60 tooth spur. I remember feeling like the GT was undergeared in stock condition, so I wanted a smaller spur which is cheaper than a larger clutchbell. I also ordred some PL Dirt Paw tires which are slightly smaller in diameter to the stock bow ties too which is why a 60 tooth spur would be best...........Anyhow, do any of you have input?

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by sLiTcH
Are the a-arms in the GT Factory made of grpahite or simple plastic. and are the shocks threaded ?

AE's composite used on all of their cars contains some graphite, so in a way the arms are graphite. However the shocks are not threaded. AE is set to release some threaded bodies for the T4 that will fit the GT.

[microrcdude]

I would get the RPM wide front bumper. (saves a lot of money)
Titanium turnbuckles and RPM ball cups are the first things i get my car.

[The King]

I am having problems with gas not getting to the carb. Can some one show me a picture of their line set up to make sure I have things set up correct?

[Polk]

Show us a pic of yours and we will tell you if its right ;)

[tl_ke_racer]

got my gt plus today, man thats a sweet car, stock motor was a lot better then i thought, i thought it would be like my rushs stock .15fe motor, has a lot of power, i had some problems, the car would be runnin fine but would shut down in the middle of a run, i think it was becuase my idle speed was set wrong tho, i took the airfilter off to see if the carb was slightly open at adle and when brakes were applied, it wasnt, so i adjusted it to what the manual said, but its to dark to run it to see if thats the fix.

[The King]

Is this gas line set up right or wrong?

[1tuffRC10]

drrcluva, I may be wrong but I don't believe that 60 spur will work on a GT.

King, try blowing out the filter in the tank. It may be clogged up. I don't run a extra filter or that much fuel line. Traxxas makes a good insulator to fit over the fuel line. It'll help keep your fuel from heating up and also protects the fuel line from getting damaged.

[The King]

So you are saying I should get rid of the extra filter? And also what part are you talking about wear you don't run that much line? Thanks for the feed back "Tuff"

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by King
Is this gas line set up right or wrong?

EDIT: Whoops didn't see the other line, it's a different color. :D See mine and my wife's here:
http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

This is one of the rare occasions I will agree with a POSSIBLE air leak. If the fuel's not coming up to the carb or forming bubbles, you don't have a good vaccum, right? Put a brand new fuel line on, then begin investigating the carb seat, backplate, etc, anywhere you might have a drop in crankcase pressure.


Originally posted by tl_ke_racer
....car would be runnin fine but would shut down in the middle of a run...

Your guess is only possible if it shuts down when it comes down to idle, and even then it's probably something else. Once it warms up it needs a different tuning setting than from a cold start. You generally get it warmed up, then retune a little. Try running first 1/8 turn richer on the high end, if it gets worse, 1/8 turn leaner . . . if neither of those work, reset it where it was and do the same with the low speed needle, but in 1/16 turn increments. Only up your idle if nothing else works, and if it's idling so high it won't hold still with th brake on, you have other issues.

[Wallis Racing]

I dont think any of us are running that much line in either place. most of us run the fuel line pretty tight and close to the engine, but that means we are only about 3/4 to 1 inch shorter there. as for the back preasure line, because you have the rear exhaust, you are forced to have a long line. a general rule is to run about 9 inches so that there is enough room for the exhaust pulses to exen out and become a steady stream by the time it hits the tank. i suck at estimating, but once agai i would say im running my backpreasure line about 3-4 inches shorter then yours. but this really isnt your issue, like tuff said, blow out your fuel filters. just blow threw the fuel line backwards, so that any gunk will get out of the filter. do the filters one at a time, otherwise you will just blow dirt from the inline filter to the intack filter and you will ahve the prob all over again after 2 tanks.

hope this helps.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[tl_ke_racer]

i still cant figure it out, i think it might be the low speed needle, after a while of running its seems fine then towards liek the end of a run, anytime i go from like slow then punchin the throttle it sounds liek it wants to die n some times it will. any suggestions?

[The King]

Should I be able to turn the crank with one finger? I put a little gas into the carb and still got no start:(

[The King]

My thinking is I may need a new pison and sleeve.

[1tuffRC10]

One finger, you may be right. I turn the fuel inlet so the fuel line runs between the carb and head. It's a very short line. I use the Traxxas sleve where the line touches the head.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by tl_ke_racer
....after a while of running its seems fine then towards liek the end of a run, anytime i go from like slow then punchin the throttle it sounds liek it wants to die.....

This is generally not LSN problem, the LSN is for idle and well . . low speed. The exception is if it's flooding up at low speed.

Look at it this way: the HSN controls ALL the fuel going into the engine, from low to high, the LSN just alters the low speed mix. I'm going to say you're still a tad rich or lean: either it's starving or flooding when you open the throttle from slow to accellerate, and only a combination of how it sounds, performance, and temp will tell you which it is. Once it's warm, the next time it tries to die, pull it over, keep it running, and lean it no more than 1/8 turn and try the lap again. It it doesn't work, go the other way.
Originally psted by The King
Should I be able to turn the crank with one finger?

No, it's either leaking at the head, plug, or as you say the P/S is shot.

[nitrodude_1]

here guys u might be interested in this stuff
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=153433

[tl_ke_racer]

finally got it tuned, needed to be richend, figured that out tried to lean it more n the thing shut off right away, just had to be a lil patient with it, runs good now seems like it has more power to, if i take it in hard packed gravel it will pull a wheelie for a few seconds, i'll get some pics after i go n bash it this afternoon.

[tl_ke_racer]

well just ran it a little in a nearby lot here is a pic of it after running.

[sLiTcH]

the wide bumper on the GT is so DAMN ugly, I would'nt even put it on my ennemy's car :D I don't really understand why it would save me lots of money, plus it is a disadvantage in a race, if you land akward a jump your bumper'S gonna hit first and ur car's gonna do flips.

[Wallis Racing]

Originally posted by sLiTcH
the wide bumper on the GT is so DAMN ugly, I would'nt even put it on my ennemy's car :D I don't really understand why it would save me lots of money...

My thoughts exactly! it looks ameture-ish... my little Tyco cars from when i was younger all had the same bumper on them:p and the front end of the GT is pretty damn good(except the whole chassis bending topic) to the point where the bumper isnt going to help, and as you said, it will prolly make you crash MORE...

U.. G.. L.. Y.. you aint got no aliby, the bumpers UGLY, *bump bump bump* the bumpers UGLY...:p

but to each his own... what ever floats ur boat!

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[tl_ke_racer]

guess i'll hide the front next time i take a pic or somthin
:confused:

[xpressgt]

hey guys im selling my team blue star chassis for $25+ shipping

you can im me aol aim sparkyondub2z
or e-mail or pm

thanks

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by tl_ke_racer
guess i'll hide the front next time i take a pic or somthin
:confused:

Yours is a stock GT bumper, pretty sure they're talking about that big wide RPM thing.

[cbr74]

Just put a Trinity Picco XP 15 in my GT. hehe

Now to put a radio back in it....

[tl_ke_racer]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by tl_ke_racer
guess i'll hide the front next time i take a pic or somthin

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Yours is a stock GT bumper, pretty sure they're talking about that big wide RPM t


i thought they were mockin my gt or somthin lol, cuz he mentioned the ugly pic right after my pic. lol i was like it doesnt even look big.:p

[slow one 2]

I just got my GPM reservoir shocks in. Does anyone have these? any tips on how to fill them with oil? I'll try to post some pics as soon as I get my GT back together.:D

[The King]

Originally posted by slow one 2
I just got my GPM reservoir shocks in. Does anyone have these? any tips on how to fill them with oil? I'll try to post some pics as soon as I get my GT back together.:D

Where did you get them from? Maybe they can help you:D

[slow one 2]

I bought them from hobby ect (where else can you buy GPM parts??) but like everything that comes from them there are no instructions. I've got an email to them but I thought someone here may have some and know how!! any more smart ideass?

[1tuffRC10]

slow one, If they are like progressive's reservoirs, there are instructions on their website. Not much to it.

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pdf/rc/R799-036.pdf

[drrcluva]

Originally posted by cbr74
Just put a Trinity Picco XP 15 in my GT. hehe

Now to put a radio back in it....
Your in for a treat...Those engines rock!

[cbr74]

Put my XR3 receiver in it today. Boy those JR antennas sure seem short to me.

Also installed some ceramic clutchbell bearings that my bearing guy sent me. These things spin for days.

[Polk]

Hey guys

......ENGINES!!!!!!!! What are you all running, I need one for racing this year..opinions, thoughts anyone! Thanks!

Im looking at the MT-12 so far, anything else thats good?!

[1tuffRC10]

Polk, I've ran the same TR all last year. Good power but the MT and Wasp are a little faster. Never had any tuning issues. I've got a new one in the box that I'll be using this year. Maybe with a larger cooling head, it'll be a little faster. Can't complain about it at all. It still keeps up on the straights. Too bad Tower quit selling the short shaft versions for less than a hundred bucks. I want to try a TR-T but it's only available in a pilot shaft version.

[Wallis Racing]

im pikcing up a RB V15T on the weekend, ill let you's know how it goes, but for tho's who watched my movie a few pages back, you's saw how the X12's pull, and on the RB site, the X12 has 5 power starts and the V15T has 11:eek: so it should be pretty insane.

i also checked the nova site, and found the engine closest in specs to the V15T and it was rated at 1.8HP with 43000 RPM... so i'd say the RB will be 1.9hp with 44000RPM... CANT WAIT!!!

BTW, its a special order from RB, i got them to make me one with a threaded shaft instead of SG so i dont have to mod it.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[KanaiDude]

Im running sirio .12's in my rc10 and my ntc3, its an awesome engine, i love them!!!

[sLiTcH]

I have an MT-12

Wallis, ur GT's gonna be totally uncontrollable !!! but it's gonna haul ass

[slow one 2]

1tuffrc thanks alot it was a big help. I run an MT12 in my GT and an OS12 in my sons. I think tuning the MT12 is much easier and lots of power.

[slow one 2]

my gt

[slow one 2]

pic 3

[1tuffRC10]

slow one, I'd get rid of that air filter. I had one pop the element out and ruin a p/s. JMO

[slow one 2]

I've run this on my MT12 for three years and I run the smaller one on my sons OS12. Never had one pop off yet, now that i've said that I probably will though. What other filters fit on the MT12, they have a bigger carb than most engines. :confused:

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by slow one 2
my gt
Dual port CVEC's rock baby. :D
http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html

[drrcluva]

Hey guys....Just finished my FT GT a few days ago....Here are a couple crappy small webcam pics. Can't really see the paint job, but its a nice fade.
I got an Epic 18 on the way, i'll let you guys know how she runs.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/101236/gt2.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/101236/gt4.jpg

[1tuffRC10]

I use the Dynamite filters with prefilter when it's dusty. They fit on my TR and it also has a large carb.

[slow one 2]

Has anyone tried the widening conversion from bayside hobby??? How about their bearings are they any good? the price is very cheap.

[1tuffRC10]

xxx-nt front axels with losi or ae(for even wider) wheels. T4 rear stubs with losi spacers in the rear works for me.

[slow one 2]

1tuffRC10 any chanch you can give me part numbers for those and what mods do i have to do to put the losi axles on the front. Did it make you truck handle better?

[1tuffRC10]

The front axels are a little larger in diameter but they will fit. No mods required. On the rear, I just put the T4 stub axel on the GT CVD bone. The losi spacers aren't necessary but they work great. You can't overtighten the rear wheels with those spacers. I'll see if I can find those numbers for you. 9598 is the part number for the T4 stubs.

[dog8spam]

Dual port CVEC's rock baby.
I LOVE those pipes! I had one a long time ago but I sold it and now I trying to get one back. If you want to just thrash, you need a CVEC.

Does anyone know if you can still get the old GT bodies? The good ol' square ones that actually looked like trucks? Mine is now held together with duct tape, which is indestructable, but isnt good for the track.

[rocknbil]

You mean the ones that (if I remember right) were exactly like the 10T body? You can get them direct from AE, and I pick them up on eBay when I can.

[Polk]

hey guys

How do you mount transponders on your trucks?

Ta

[The King]

Underneith the hood

[1tuffRC10]

King, LOL

Polk, I mount my personal on top of my reciever box with a zip tie. I have a hole in the body just in front of the windshield on the right side for club transponders. The shock tower may be a better place for the personal in those close finishes. :D

[tl_ke_racer]

hi i got a question, would it be a good idea to take the carb restrictor out of my gt plus? i know theirs a performance boost but would this mess up the engine or anything?

[rocknbil]

If you want control, as in racing offroad and you're still new to RC (or you wouldn't be asking) leave it in. If all you care about is goingasfastasyoucango, take it out. :D It's going to get squirrely on you, keep a little slipper action working for you.

You'll also need to retune a little, but if you tune each time you run you should be OK.

[NoPulse]

Hey all,
Well I finally pulled out my GT and took it to the track, and I have to say that I have fallen in love with her all over again! (after 6 mos.)
Before I took her out, I did some engine modifications. I had "smoothed" out a few ports and the bottom of the Cylinder sleeve. I tuned the engine, and off she went like a bat outa hell! I really loved it. I raced a guy with the O.S. .12 TR and I smoked him. For some reason it just feels faster, really faster. I was even using the old nitro (6 mos.+).
Well now that I have made a mod. to the engine, I doubt I can use it for racing, any of you guys tried the O.S. .12 TR Turbo yet? Or the Orion Wasp?
see ya out there,
NoPulse:cool:

[RustlerBoy]

Sup guys. I just got my first gas truck. I picked up a GT RTR that needed a complete rebuild, a new engine, and a few misc parts. I have never donme gas before, so i thought this would be fun. I work at my LHS so i get discounts on everything, so i thought, hey, what the heck. So, i picked it up, rebuilt the Gt's tranny, steering, and actually the whole thing. Then, tred to start her up, wuld budge. Bought a new motor, Megatech 16 for 75 bucks, mounted it, and just broke it in tonight. I cant wait to get her going. After all my work, i cant wait to see the final results. I mounted up my Hitec HS 605 MG for steering, 615MG for throttle, and a PRP 1000 mah battery for reciever battery, and am still in the woks of buying a 2nd Novak XXL FM for my Airtronics MX-3. I also race electric buggies( a XXX BK edition)(sold my T3 for it...sorry guys, but i love racing buggies, anbd bought the X for 160 brand new with a ton oo stuff) So, if any of you guys have any tuning tip, let me know, i have no idea how o tune an engine....

Thanks!!!

[1tuffRC10]

NoPulse, If your TT15 still has the pull start, then it is ROAR legal. Mods don't count. What temps were you running? I have a nearly stock TR and it doesn't get blowed away on any straight. A guy I race with runs a Wasp in his Losi and it's a little quicker at low RPM than my TR but they usually run about the same top end. BTW My TR out lasted the Wasp by a great deal. Haven't tried the TR-T yet, it's a pilot shaft so you'll need a different crank or some mods to get the pilot shaft to work in a GT. The biggest mod we have done to the TR is to clean the anodizing off of the top of the head.

rustlerboy, just keep that thing cool. That's nearly more power than you need with a GT. It should have plenty of power even running a little rich. BTW A 16 is not ROAR legal. If you race at a ROAR track, you may get DQ'ed.

[AErc10gt]

Does anyone know of a site that has alum. parts for rc10gt RTR plus (front and rear A-arms and shock towers mainly) or a site that might have them fit........ :confused: :confused:

Thanks, AErc10gt :D

[N2OSupra]

i would stick with the stock arms

if you race or bash and hit things the aluminum wont bend as easily..but the thing is when they do bend they wont go back to shape and youre out X amount of $$$

plastic flexes and gives...when they do fail you can get replacements for cheap....
if you break arms then get the RPM arms...lifetime warranty against breakage

[rocknbil]

I got an old GT off eBay with some other stuff that had aluminum arms. The hinge pin holes were all stretched an elongated, causing the sispension to be loose enough to move forward and back almost 1/4".

[AErc10gt]

I have an rc10gt and have been wondering for some time how fast does it go at full speed? Does anybody know? (Im using the stock AE.15 engine) AErc10gt

[slow one 2]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
The front axels are a little larger in diameter but they will fit. No mods required. On the rear, I just put the T4 stub axel on the GT CVD bone. The losi spacers aren't necessary but they work great. You can't overtighten the rear wheels with those spacers. I'll see if I can find those numbers for you. 9598 is the part number for the T4 stubs.

If the xxx axles are larger in diameter how do they fit in the gt steering blocks? do I need to buy the xxx steering blocks and block carriers as well? Thanks for your help

[1tuffRC10]

It's only a few thousand differance. They fit in my old wore out spindles with a little pressure. Those axles may have been XXT axles. I need to check and be sure. They were hanging in my LHS and I just bought them to try. And they worked!

[NoPulse]

Tuff, I run a temp of 210, with the blue head that I had bought from AE. Also, I have converted the engine to a non-pull start.
Yeah the guy with the TR was a weak driver (to be polite) and I think he had tuning issues. Tell you what guys... There is nothing like a fine tuned engine, and yes...you have to tune it most of the time (due to track, weather, fuel conditions)
I did some reasearch and the Turbo does have a pilot shaft, I wonder if they will come out with the short shaft?
anybody have "good" pricing for the O.S. TR and Wasp (have no idea with items # for wasp)
Thanks

[drrcluva]

I had a question for you guys.....I built a FT GT awhile back and finally got an Epic 18 in and threw it in there...Unfortunatly due to weather, I have not been able to run it yet.
My question is concerning the ball diff.....I built it as per instructions but it just feels too loose to me, even tightened down.
If I pick the truck up, hold one rear wheel and spin the other, there is hardly any resistance at all....If I remember correctly, the old one I had, there was quite a bit of resistance when doing that based on how tight you had it set.
I tightened down the slipper and then "locked" the spur and clutchbell in place and tried to move the rear wheels...They did not budge, so I know the diff isn't slipping.
So whats the problem? Or is there even a problem at all?
Guess I won't really know till I run it......

[slow one 2]

Where can I get bulk flathead screws that fit in the bottom of teh chassis? I saw it posted somewhere but I cannot find it.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by drrcluva
....If I pick the truck up, hold one rear wheel and spin the other, there is hardly any resistance at all.....

When you do this, hold the spur so it cannot turn. The opposite wheel should spin freely. Does it?

Now - holding one wheel and the spur, so they can't move, try to turn the remaining wheel. Does it turn easily, or only barely and under great force?

If the above is all true, you just have a very smooth diff, the "second" reason they dubbed it Stealth. :D If, however, under the second test, the free wheel moves easily, something is loose or missing allowing the balls to slide on the plates in the diff and needs to be addressed. Running it in this condition will allow the balls to slip on the plates, overheating them, melting the balls into the diff gear.

[drrcluva]

double

[drrcluva]

Originally posted by rocknbil
When you do this, hold the spur so it cannot turn. The opposite wheel should spin freely. Does it?

Now - holding one wheel and the spur, so they can't move, try to turn the remaining wheel. Does it turn easily, or only barely and under great force?

If the above is all true, you just have a very smooth diff, the "second" reason they dubbed it Stealth. :D If, however, under the second test, the free wheel moves easily, something is loose or missing allowing the balls to slide on the plates in the diff and needs to be addressed. Running it in this condition will allow the balls to slip on the plates, overheating them, melting the balls into the diff gear.
Thanks for the tips, I guess all is well then...However, with the second test of holding wheel and spur, the other whell will not budge at all....Does that mean the ball diff is too tight?

[Wallis Racing]

Yeah, if you tighten you slipper all the way up, and do that second test, using nearly all your strength the diff should only just slip. the loosen you slipper slightly and do the test again and make sure the slipper slips BEFORE your diff does. obviously there are different setting for different people, different surfaces, different engines and different driving styles... like for me, i like the "just slap it all together and GO!" method :rolleyes: i just make sure the wheels spin in oposite dirrections smoothely, and i make sure that the slipper will slip before the diff does, then i give it a drive an make sure its right, or tweak it a little more if needed.

Anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[rocknbil]

Yeah what Wallis said. :D
This means your diff balls are not slipping on the plates. I like to call this "Sweet Action." :D heh. Be sure to use a little slipper clutch, tighten the diff bolt down again after you run it a bit (it will loosen up a little as it breaks in) and it will last you as long time.

[drrcluva]

You guys rock, thanks.... :)

[RC10's]

If you do end up melting the diff balls into the diff gear do yourself a favor and replace it with the aliminum robinson racing diff gear, its well worth it.

[N2OSupra]

i second the nomination of a RRP Steel Diff Gear
im going to switch to that but thats not until next season...i just freshly rebuilt my GT tranny :)