Associated RC10GT Forum v8.0

[cbr74]

Bleh, alloy diff gear just adds weight and rotating mass.

I run Grade 3 Silicon Nitride Ceramic Carbide diff balls. The diff is smooth as silk, does not slip, and lasts for a very long time between re-builds.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by cbr74
Bleh, alloy diff gear...
Thank you. :D I'm of the thought that if you're melting the gear, something's wrong, I've never had any trouble with the plastic and would rather that goes than something more expensive. Also aluminum makes such an ugly black mess when it wears, I've got two completely aluminum trannies here in the box, case, gears, everything, and can't bring myself to use them. :D

[Polk]

I want an aluminium transmission case, just for the pure right of saying - I have an aluminium transmission case....:D

[RC10's]

Im not racing, and its not in my interest to rebuild the diff every few weeks so the aliminum gives me the durablity I want. Im willing to sacrifice things like a little more weight and more cost just to not have to rebuild it when im out bashing hard.

[1tuffRC10]

RC10's, I've used the aluminum diff gear for racing. It is very unpredictable. After it wears out, where the balls ride, it gets worse. It really takes the fun out of the truck IMO. Even for bashing. Just keep the stock gear adjusted right and you won't have a problem. I don't strip the gears, usually change them when I rebuild. Usually after five or six races. That's a lot of fuel! BTW I do use Crezenski diff savers. They really keep out the dirt.

[Wallis Racing]

unpredictable? what the...?

ive been using all RRP gears for the last 6 months, if not longer... and the only probs i have had is a striped hardened clutch bell, and that was cause my clutch bearings went.

and i dare to say i am harder on my truck then any of yours here... RRP gears are the way to go for bashers and racers alike. all of my mates did the plastis idler gear in their trannies before UPGRADING to the RRP gears, and none of us have looked back.

and i hate all this nonsence about saving weight... ok, for TC's it might be a good thing to do, to strip down to the bare essentials... but for off-roaders... unless you are racing against billy eastern, or have the same skills as him, saving 2 grams aint gunna mean diddly!

just my 2cents...

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[1tuffRC10]

Wallis, those diff gears are cheaper than CVD's. To each his own LOL ;)

[rocknbil]

^^ WURD. And outdrives too. :D And how do you know you're tougher on it than the rest of us, we could be ruthless. And no one, I mean NO one has been tougher on his GT than Polk!!

Heh. :D

[Wallis Racing]

What are you boys trying to say?:p that having all RRPM gears means that im gunna snap out drives and CVD's?

well if thats what you think, since buying my GT, about a year and a half ago, i have only replaced my out drives once, and the ones on there now as still in near new condition. and My shiny CVD's get replaced about ever few months because they end up ~~ shaped from crashing... no snapping CVD's here... having said all that, i have striped a few rear wheels, but thats because of improper slipper and diff settings.

and even if Polk harder on his car... hes a kewi, so it dont count!:p

and download this if you wanna see if im harder on my car then yours, and you tell me(i think my car going over the cliff might settle the debate?):
GT Moshings (http://www.radiomodels.com.au/downloads/gtmoshings.zip)

and after being here for a year and a half, if not longer, i have heard what most people put there GT's threw...

Anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[1tuffRC10]

Wallis, I've seen your videos. Wild! It's just my experience that if you make everything tough as nails, something still breaks. Yes, slipper settings are important in preventing breakage, but something will always break. With the stock spur gear easy to replace, and cheap, I just stay with replacing it. And about those aluminum diff gears. It was obvious to us about the unpredictability of it. Almost like the diff always needed building. Like I said, if it works for you, go for it.

[rocknbil]

... if Polk harder on his car... hes a kewi, so it dont count!...
^^ ROFLMAO! He'll smack you for that, he's from NZ, not AU. :D
All I'm saying is, they're plastic for a reason, and abuse or no, as long as they're properly adjusted and maintained, they'll never melt.

[Snoozy]

Does anyone know where I can get a bulletproof screw/nut/bolt set? I am tired of stripped aluminum crap. I want to replace EVERYTHING with a good stainless part. Any suggestions?

[Snoozy]

Lunsford seems to have some stuff, are their TI screws durable? I am buying all new allen tools, that will fit perfectly to go with this new screw set, this almost ruined the hobby for me. SOOOO frustrating.

[RC10's]

as long as they're properly adjusted and maintained, they'll never melt.

True, but unfortanetly not all of us keep things properly adjusted or maintained. I dont care about inconsistincies in diff settings, since I dont race, just as long as it lasts. I dont have the time or patience to rebuild my tranny every few runs to keep it working properly, I do that with my TC3 (stupid touring cars).

[1tuffRC10]

Snoozy, if you are talking about the heads, where you put the wrench in, the screws, change your wrenches. They get wore out and strip your screws. Dynamite has the best drivers IMO. I went through the same thing till we figured it out.

[rocknbil]

You like those better than the Trinity's? Do they have the rounded tips, so you can get at the hex from any angle?

[Snoozy]

I have the dynamite ones. (Red with diamond finish for grip) Where can I buy new tips btw, my 3/32'd is starting to wear.

[1tuffRC10]

I've not used the trinity ones. No need for me to switch, mine haven't wore out yet. LOL The ball end wrenches can be put in at a angle but they aren't strong enough, esp. for head bolts. They don't fit very well either. The dynamites and several others were miked through the pack and were slightly larger, better fit. Wore wrenches cause wore bolts.

[dog8spam]

I use hexplus from McMasterCarr, they are $.30 and last forever.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10

...The ball end wrenches can be put in at a angle but they aren't strong enough . . .

Can't agree on this part, mine are almost 12 years old and are finally starting to show a little wear. I bought them BECAUSE the allen's kept ripping up the screws, and because electric motor screws kept falling out. I never had a problem after that.

.. . . esp. for head bolts. . . . well . . .yeah . . :D

They don't fit very well either.

Nahh . . Maybe these aren't Trinity brand, to be honest with you I **did** get them so long ago, I may have the manufacturer wrong, but I've never had one slip, the screws just wear out before they lose grip in the holes. My only complaint with them is I torque them so hard, the plastic handles sometimes strip before the wrench does . . .

[1tuffRC10]

:)

[1tuffRC10]

Hey, no problem, if it works for you..... We were sitting around in a hobby shop one day and got out a mic and measured all wrenches in stock and the Dynamites were all a tad larger. I have a few ball ends but I just don't use them for serious torque. They are great for those tight places. But too much torque and they'll break. Guess you need a little bit of all tools to keep these things going.

rockinbill, now you know the old stuff is always better quality! LOL

[Fantom 15 gt]

hey wallis check your pm's

[Snoozy]

Anyone running an aftermarket break kit they like? I can never get enough breaking power to haul this heavy beast down. I feel the brakes should be strong enough to lock the rear wheels at speed and that I can use my radio programming to feather the brakes for me. The stock disc works great for about 10 minutes then it gets dirt/nitro/grime on it and just stops working. I have my truck COMPLETELY apart as I am waiting on a new screw kit, and figured if anything needs replacing now is the time. Are the metal break kits good? Do they stop reliably? I want zero fade.

[1tuffRC10]

Crezenski brake kits = no fade. They are the ticket. :D

[tarvymoto]

Has associated dropped any hints that they are going to release an updated GT?
Not that it needs anything , but since they put out the new stealth electrics I am curious.

[LoSick]

Hey Guys, does anyone know if there is a rollcage set for the gt?

[dog8spam]

Ive heard they arent planning on updating the GT at all right now.

[AErc10gt]

Hi, I'm having a problem with fuel. When I drive my RC10GT and 1 tank runs out I go to fill it and there it is a puddle of fuel behind the engine, in front of rear shock tower and next to tranny. I filled the tank started it up and pulled the throttle a little to see where it's been coming from and i just see a lot of dripping and a mist of fuel from engine. I tightened manifold and cooling head a little. Does anybody know whats wrong I need to fix it. My car is all grimey with fuel and I'm also wasting a lot too.


Good thing i have an RPM receiver box.:D



PLEASE HELP ME FAST!!!!!!!! Thanks

[cbr74]

Hmmm... pin hole in fuel line, maybe? Loose backplate, loose carb, front bearing gone out?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by AErc10gt
...in front of rear shock tower and next to tranny....i just see a lot of dripping and a mist of fuel from engine...

Can you tell us WHERE the dripping and/or mist is coming from?

"In front of rear shock tower and next to tranny" - this seems to indicate it's leaking from the exhaust port/header. IS YOUR EXHAUST GASKET INSTALLED? If not - bingo, get a gasket or make one out of automotive gasket material and problem solved.

Even if it is, if you've over-tightened it, it may be warped.

As for the grimy mess, you'll get that anyway, welcome to nitro. :D

[AErc10gt]

rocknbil yes my gasket is installed, I mean half of it LOL! I flipped my truck in the snow and the engine was hot and got cold quick so the gasket broke. I took it off and found half thats why the gas was dripping and there was a small mist. Thanks rocknbil

[rocknbil]

Sweetage! Right for once. Heh. :D Good for you, back on da' turf.

[toddzilla]

I'm getting ready to prep my GT for the upcoming racing season. I've primarily raced 1/8 scale, monster truck and a XXX buggy up until now, and am looking for the must-have items to get/watch out for in order to have a reliable truck. I bought it used, it was a RTR plus, and it already has rpm a-arms on it. i'll be using either a MT-12 or an OS cv-r .12 as we have fairly large tracks geared towards 1/8 scale sized racing. i'm going to be doing a tear-down and rebuild before the season starts and want to know what i should be watching out for, and what hop-ups are recommended for the best racing performance. Don't suggest "pretty" parts, just things that increase reliability and/or performance.

thanks!

[rocknbil]

I've heard it said by many the RPM's are too floppy for "serious racing." I've never used them, always used stocks.

MIP CVD's are pretty much a must - and you can even get pretty silver ones, dammit, pretty is good too :D

Although I've said this over and over, I've never had a problem with the stock clutch, eveyone raves about the MIP 4-in-1 clutch, so I've been running one for about a year now. It doesn't hurt, anyway.

Full set of springs and weights of oil, the GT is VERY responsive to subtle changes. Run just a tad (or in your case, a Todd) of drag brake, it indeed shifts the weight forward and gives you quite a bit more steering coming into a corner. Not enough to cook the brake - just enough to drag.

Big dollar items are a Futaba (9450???) 89oz/in@4.8v, 110 oz/in@6.0v steering servo, and put one on your throttle too- they are BLAZING fast, .11 sec, which makes the difference between rolling three feet or 20 before you get on the brake. Evreyone recommends other cheaper brands but I've got Futabas over 10 year old, coreless motors, bearings top & bottom, metal gears all around arrhhhuuuu . . . . you need strong servos on a truck.

Let's not talk about engine. You know that story. :D

That should get you home from the LHS with empty pockets and a gleam in yer eye . . .

[slow one 2]

the MIP clutch is great but has anyone tried putting the traxxass (sorry for saying that name) clutchbell/flywheel setup. I've gone through so many bearings with the Associated setup i cannot count but since I went with that other brand I'm close to 2 gallons on the same bearings and still going strong. bigger=stronger=last longer, or am I just being lucky???

rpm ball cups are a big improvement over the stock ones if you hit the walls like me.

the Ofna throttle linkage and a good return spring will save you from runaway's and blown motors. as far as the engine I luv my MT12 but I've never owned a cvr so I cannot compare

[cbr74]

Yes. I have a T-Maxx flywheel, clutch, and clutchbell on a Picco XP 15 in my RC10GT. I'm running BBB ceramic clutchbell bearings and they're holding up great. The stall on the Maxx clutch is a bit high for a GT, it's near impossible to take off without wheelspin, but hook-up is great.

I'm gonna try weighting the shoes or perhaps stretching the spring a bit to bring the stall down. Of course.. part of the problem may just be the sick power created by that Picco.
:D

[drrcluva]

Hey guys, just thought I would post a link to a couple pics of my FT GT.....Its new and clean in these pics. I opted for the new Epic 18 and all I can say is the power of this engine is sick....Its really overkill for a 2 wheel drive truck, but fun trying to keep it going where you point it......Even at quarter speed, nailing the throttle about flips it :D
http://www.xpphotoalbum.com/data/500/4418bluetruckB.jpg?3603
http://www.xpphotoalbum.com/data/500/4418bluetruckE.jpg?1808
http://www.xpphotoalbum.com/data/500/4418bluetruckA.jpg?1165

[Snoozy]

How exactly do you use the traxxas clutch? What parts need to be changed? I tend to burn out bearings as well.

[toddzilla]

tell us more, i've heard that the GT is hard on bearings, and they are friggin expensive.

[cbr74]

I used
TRX 4142 flywheel
TRX 4144 clutchnut
TRX 4146 clutch shoes w/ spring
Racers Edge 14917 17T clutchbell

The RE bell comes with it's own bearings, but those were stolen to put in my Monster GT steering bellcranks. So I installed these:
http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=97778&clist=0,10285,97777

The ceramic bearings are also available in GT size:
http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=97783&clist=0,10285,97777

[rocknbil]

Todd - which bearings? Tranny and fronts = lifetime or close enough to it. It's not so hard on rears if you have 3/16" axles, but if you have 1/4" axles I go through about a set a gallon, and they never seemed that expensive. I buy both them and clutch bearings in bulk, assuming they're going to fly (got 1/4" axles all around here, electrics and nitros, both mine and my wife's) and use the cheapo Duratrax ones (flame on! :D ) which come, as I recall, about $10 for eight.

[cbr74]

I run the RPM bearing carriers with the 1/2" OD bearings. I've yet to need to replace them.

[toddzilla]

i was talking clutch bearings. doesn't the GT use a flanged bearing? i know the flanged are more expensive. this traxxas deal comes out to a signifigant gear ratio difference, i'm not sure i'd run that combo unless i could find a spur gear bigger than the 67..

[cbr74]

Stock GT cluthbell bearings are SAE flanged. Traxxas clutchbell bearings are metric unflanged.

I chose 17/65 because of the brute torque that Picco XP15 is capable of(and could easily go up one or two more teeth), but Racer's Edge has a range of clutchbells from 14 to 24 teeth. #14914-14924

The lower tooth counts use 5X8 bearings, my 17T uses 5X10, and I believe the larger tooth counts use 5X11.

[RC10's]

The T-Maxx has SO many different clutch bell and bearing combos available its rediculous. If you go with a 17tooth clutch bell it does have bigger bearings then a stock GT so they will be stronger, but now your gear ratio is too high IMO. I think a 15 or 16 tooth clutch bell is perfect, and unfortunately you cant get a bigger spur then 67T because it would hit the chassis. I have never burned out clutch bearings on my GT, in over a gallon. I think the key is to put some oil on them like trinitys royal bearing racing oil and keep the rest of your drive line smooth so there isnt a lot of heat created from friction.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by toddzilla
i was talking clutch bearings. doesn't the GT use a flanged bearing?....

Yes, and yes, but check out TowerHobbies for the Duratrax equivalents. I know they're bottom line but it still seems I got 8 of them for $10 or $12 or so, back before I knew this . . . .

When I first got my GT I went through three bearings in about 6 tanks. Hmm, sez to self, something is up here. The clutch shaft didn't **seem** that worn, but I put a new one on and I've been through two gallons on the same set of cheapo Duratrax's ever since.

Closest I can figure is whoever owned it before me was a real low-maintenance kind of guy (the only new RC I've ever had is the original 10T kit,) or kept running it after the bearings went. Once that happens, the slightest wear on the clutch shaft allows the inner race to slide on the shaft, allowing it to heat . . . then turns it to spaghetti.

The inner race is supposed to be sufficiently snug enough on the shaft so it doesn't spin, the bearings do. If your bearings are wobbly on the shaft they will go for sure. Once I solved that, no more blown bearings, no more thrown e-clips, and I went for a year or so on one set of stock clutch shoes.

[1tuffRC10]

RCboyz has some bearings for less than 10 dollars a pair. I haven't tried them yet as I have no problem with the stock bearings. Just clean the inside of the clutch bell after your first or second tank with new bearings. That grease inside the bearings will cause the clutch to slip causing the clutch to overheat and ruin the bearings. Be sure to scuff the bell and shoes a bit after cleaning them.

[cbr74]

If you go with a 17tooth clutch bell it does have bigger bearings then a stock GT so they will be stronger, but now your gear ratio is too high.


If I ran a 15 or 16 tooth with the XP, it'd be undrivable. It's a handful as it is with the 17T. I could go 18T and it'd pull it no problem.

[rocknbil]

I **think** these are the ones, don't recall measurements offhand, and I was wrong again, 10 bearings for $22.99.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD086&P=0

No pic in that post, but here's the pair for $4.99 which does have a pic.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD085&P=0

If you're really picky about your bearings you can get them wholesale if they're to spec.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Spent tonight wiring my RC10GT real neat (I think :D ) What do you think ? This is completely electrically wired up and working, hardly a wire to be seen :D (Except the grey aerial wire jabbing in the camera lens :D )

[cbr74]

Looks clean, good job.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Close up, fully wired and working. Sorry to bore everyone :D (But this is my first RC10GT that I have built, well happy with the result :D)

[X-Tee Ha !]

Thanks CBR :)

[slow one 2]

I'm running the 18t Traxxas clutchbell and 62 spur gear with my MT12 and after close to 2 gallons the bearings still look like new. I can spin my tires without even trying(when your racing spinning your wheels aint no good) and I can keep up with or pass everyone at the track. now if i could only stop the knees from wobbling and the truck out of the wall and off its roof maybe I could even win.:D :D

thanks cbr74 for the address for the ceramic bearings. I've been looking for tehm. how do they hold up on teh wheels??

[cbr74]

Wheels... hmm... I dunno. I'm only using them on the clutchbell. I run teflon sealed stainless bearings everywhere else. The ceramics are just too expensive to run 'em everwhere.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !
Spent tonight wiring my RC10GT....
OOOOH . . . is that chassis anodized or painted? Did it come with the kit or did you buy it separately? If you want black nose tubes to match, the ones from a 10T electric kit are the same.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Rocknbil, it's the standard chassis with the kit, it's just I layed everything out initially, purple headed engine, polished alloy pipe/manifold, blue chassis - all too much color mismatch !

Didn't work at all so I degreased and painted the chassis black (always prefered the look of the old black "Tubs" anyway - a classic :D) with satin acrylic paint. Gloss would have looked terrible and matt would have absorbed every oil/grease spot. It's come out fine, no dust/hair contamination and a tough finish plus it looks great with the polished pipe fitted, classis black and alloy, like a GT should be !.

Didn't spray the bottom though, it just would have scratched off, plus I can see when it's upside down at 500yds :D

Thanks for the nose bar tip, think I'll do that too : )

[Toyotatogo]

X-Tee Ha !

What motor is that you have on the truck?

Also isn't the hot nitro fuel and oil eventually going to remove the painted surface?

:)

Here is my trucky

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL320/1049490/3623584/41949966.jpg

[X-Tee Ha !]

Its a modified Novarossi "something" S2 can't remember the rest of the letters ! I'll probably never manage to get it started anyway :D I think the paint will hold up, the chassis was degreased and keyed before spraying and so long as the methanol/castor/nitro doesn't soften it it's a fairly robust finish that I have used on hot/oily rocker covers on full size cars OK.

Nice GT you have there, looks like it would drive over the guy in front if he braked :D Is it .21 powered ?

What are all those messy wires everywhere :p

[Budman_222]

[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by X-Tee Ha

What are all those messy wires everywhere :p



He got you there, Toyota. You had to have known that was coming. LOL


Nice job X-Tee. looks a lot like mine except my chassis is silver.


Bud

[Toyotatogo]

yea he got me .... lol

X-Tee Ha ! would you like to share how you keep the wires so neat? I am needing help

Yes thats a Rossi .21 installed I have it geared high too at 24/54 ...

[X-Tee Ha !]

Nice engine Toyota ! :D

As for the wires, just drill a 10mm hole in the base of an RPM receiver box (seal it after with silicon if you must go off road & wet !) to pass the connectors through then just bunch the excess out of sight in the box :D It is spaced off the chassis so there is plenty of room to get in underneath. The battery wire is a problem, if you have a pullstart motor then it will pass under the engine but with non pull, no room, has to go between the carb and the block to stay away from the flywheel. I have passed home made twisted twin wire (just use a drillgun and vice) inside silicon fuel tube to resist the heat (hopefully resist, I'll let you know !) between the carb/block to emerge ready to enter the RPM box. It'll probably all crash and burn but you have to have a go sometimes !

[tl_ke_racer]

i put some tires on my gt that are a lil bigger then the stock ones and are knobs, the thing was pullin wheelies all over the place my gt plus hard ever did that be4 with the stock tread, only when it would hit lil bumps, how would i tune my plus if the took the carb restrictor out? is takin it out bad for my motor
?

[hooverimg]

I recently replaced the .15 Thunder Tiger on the RTR GT with the .12 OS-CVRX. After 6 tanks of break in the engine does not have as much top end as my .15 Thunder Tiger. Everything else is fine, idle, low end etc. Running at 220 degrees, have good plugs, gas and leaned out the engine.

I was expecting more top end from the .12 os-cvrx when compared to the .15 TT. Is this normal, or should I be getting more top end. I am think of changing the gearing from 15T/66T to 17T/66T. Please, let me know what you guys think.

Thanks

[BTE214]

how would i tune my plus if the took the carb restrictor out? is takin it out bad for my motor

If you take the restrictor out you should richen your mixture a bit. Taking the restrictor out is not bad it gives you more power because of more air entering the engine. But to make sure it runs right you need to add more fuel to balance with the added air.

[X-Tee Ha !]

6 tanks probably isn't enough for the engine to have started to loosen up properly yet, it will probably start really flying after about 1/2 gallon+ then I don't think you will be disappointed !

[BTE214]

Are these the right turnbuckles for the Gt? Mine are all bent up and i need new ones.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2924&P=0

[cbr74]

Yeah, those are the stock replacements. But what you really want is these:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXY771&P=7

[BTE214]

Yeah I do really want those but I have to buy some other stuff too. The reason they are bent is becuase it's original owner was not too intelligent. You should have seen the engine. Im suprised there was no chasis scratches though.

Here's what im gettin soon i hope:
Associated preload spacers
Shock rebuild kit
Shock shaft rear
Rear shock bodies
Rpm spring cups
Rpm rod ends
Turnbuckles
Ofna linkage kit
Shock caps

And that's just for the GT. I need stuff for my T4 and boat too.

[hooverimg]

"6 tanks probably isn't enough for the engine to have started to loosen up properly yet, it will probably start really flying after about 1/2 gallon+ then I don't think you will be disappointed !"

Thanks X TEE...I was having a hard time imagining my .15 Thunder Tiger out performing an os .12cv-rx on the top end.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by RCracer214
Yeah I do really want those...

RCRacer - Do Not Spent Money On Potiron Turnbuckles. If you can't afford the Lundsfords, at least get the AE Team Titaniums. You might as well use paper clips for turnbuckles. :D

If you're not hot for 'em, PM me your mailing address, I'll send you a bunch when I get around to it, they are worthless, which is why the new RTR comes with Ti's.

[BTE214]

I didn't buy those turnbuckles. I'm savin up for good ones. But i just ordered:

1)New Rear shocks
2)Ofna Linkage Kit
3)Rpm T4 Gear cover
4)16t reversing ESC (For T4)
5)Rush 17x2 motor (T4)

Thanks for the heads up on the turnbuckles rockinbil. I will stay away from them ;) lol.

[Anemic_SluG]

The GT uses a short crank setup. The SG Pilot shaft is the same as the LONG shaft setup. The only reason why a Traxxas SG "style" shaft works is because it is short just like a pilot styled shaft on the Associated engines. If you get a pilot shaft it will be too long. No pilot shafts on a GT. No nut, no Traxxas parts, no nothing will make it fit.

[cbr74]

Uh... OK... I guess I need to take a pic. of my buddies GT with the pilot shaft engine in it.
Gimme a day or two.

[Snoozy]

Right now I have team rears and sport fronts (the old gold sports - they're now silver :p ) Do you guys suggest getting the threaded bodies, or some other body? I have aluminum caps which have cut down on explosion when jumping alot (I run gold springs in back when jumping).

[Snoozy]

Where can I get threaded shock bodies for the GT? The little clips are getting annoying. I'm forever losing them.

[rocknbil]

You mean the ride height adjustment clip thingies? I hate those. I use old style ride height clamps, they're hard to find though. If you can find them for an old RC10, 10T, or T2, they will fit your shocks. I do not know of threaded bodies for a GT?

Alum caps are cool, all I have are plastic (waaa) what do you mean "explode?" You mean they kept popping off if you used plastic? You are probably overfilling your shocks if that's the case.

[hooverimg]

Does anyone know how to keep the screws that connect the rear A-Arms to the chassis from coming lose. I have the GT RTR and I have tried lock-tite (blue) but that didn't work. Any suggestions?

[rocknbil]

Welcome aboard hooverimg, that's actually one of the weak spots of the GT, at least I think.

I don't know if the newer ones do, but the older GT's have an extremely low-profile nut (it's really thin) you can put on the top side of the screw if you use a screw long enough to protrude through the top of the suspension mount. You can't get the nut in by the spur side, but three out of four helps. The other thing is as the plastic wears it gets harder and harder to keep them in, so replacing the mounts once in a while also helps, they're cheap and it's a chance to expirament with different anti-squat and toe-in angles.

It's just one of the screws you need to check and tighten before and after every run.

[cbr74]

Did you use loctite on the stock a-arm mounts? They're plastic... plastic and loctite don't mix. Loctite eats plastic.

You'll need to buy new arm mounts and use new screws.

I run Trinity arm mounts that you can loctite because they're aluminum, but pricey. Part #TK5055

The RPM's are a good low cost alternative, available in black, blue, or yellow. Part#s: 70532, 70535, and 70537

[Snoozy]

I've been using the RPM ones for close to 3 years now. On my second set.

[hooverimg]

Thanks for the 411...


How about getting a screw with a different thread...any thoughts?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by cbr74
... I run Trinity arm mounts... they're aluminum...

How's the play on your hinge pin holes?

I've got three or four sets of aluminum's laying around, and some A-Arms too. After a while, the hinge pin holes begin to stretch and get oval-shaped which makes for sloppy suspension. The last ones I ripped off the front a-arms moved almost 3/16" when you wiggled them from front to back.

[cbr74]

They're nice and tight. I use the set screws to hold the hingepins stationary so the pivot point is at the arm and not the mount.

[Snoozy]

Anyone have a link to where I can get the Crezenski brake kit online? I want to buy it now. My brakes won't even hold the truck still at idle.

[cbr74]

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/cr_brake.htm

Tell Dave, Ron over in Cali sent you.

[Snoozy]

Originally posted by cbr74
http://www.rc10gthobby.com/cr_brake.htm

Tell Dave, Ron over in Cali sent you.

Out of Stock - NOOOOO any ideas where else I can get one?

[dog8spam]

Does anyone know how to keep the screws that connect the rear A-Arms to the chassis from coming lose. I have the GT RTR and I have tried lock-tite (blue) but that didn't work. Any suggestions?

I put longer 8/32s with nuts on and also drilled a third spot for a 4-40 on the back side of the diff and put a locknut on it. You wont be able to put a longer 8-32 under the spur gear and by the bulkhead you must ethier use jam nuts or cut it. Using both should fix it forever.

I might even have a fourth under the diff outdrives, I cant remember.:rolleyes:

[cbr74]

Out of Stock - NOOOOO any ideas where else I can get one?

Dave has brake kits, call him 727-522-1769 or e-mail: sales@rc10gthobby.com

[Old409]

Rocknbil,

take an A arm to the local Ace hardware and get yourself some aluminum tubing that the hinge pins fit into without too much slop. Drill out the A arms so the tubing fits in the A arm ,then put the tubing in the A arm and the hinge pin in the tubing. It will last almost forever. I used to know the size of the tubing ,but it has been so long since I did this that I have forgotten.

[Toyotatogo]

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL320/1049490/3623584/42603641.jpg

[Snoozy]

You need some stiffer sprangs on that thing if you are going to relegate it to roadwarrior.

[Toyotatogo]

:(

I can't mount the body ....

Sure was a waste of paint and body ... :(

Stupid pipe and header sticks out to far :(

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Old409
... ..Drill out the A arms so the tubing fits in the A arm...

Excellent idea! Problem is . . . I just don't get behind Alum arms, they're heavier and for all the complaints I hear I've broken maybe two stocks in the last 10 or 12 years. Might take it up on a rainy dayt for someone that wants them though . . .

TOYOTA!!! 'Bout time you brought that bad boy in here! :D

Hey . . got about five over-sized, unpainted bodies that might work, ya interested? I'm not sure what they're for but their pants are a little too big for a regular GT, if you're interested let me know - I'll post a pic of one. I'd even be glad to paint it for ya for a VERY good price - as you can tell I'm WAY into the painting part. :D

http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/images/wraparound2.jpg

[Toyotatogo]

Sure do you have larger pics of the bodies ?

[rocknbil]

Hang on, I'll drag 'em out and shoot one for ya, give me ten.

[rocknbil]

Clear bods are a beotch to shoot (at 2 AM) so I'll throw a couple here, this one's with it set on top of my GT with a beater body for scale. For the record, making me take them out forced identification - these are Bolink 2225 Explorer's. pretty sure they were originally made for the T-Maxx, they're all NIB. I have five . . I think . . . or more . . .

[rocknbil]

I'll spare everyone the bandwidth and do just this one more, from the top. I've got a couple more angles here if you need them, PM me your email.
You'd have to do something special with the body mounts to make the mwork, but it's a thought anyway.
AND NO MAKING FUN OF MY BEATER BODY! :D Well . . . actually, go ahead, it's joke-worthy, it's a failed expirament. :D

[dog8spam]

Toyota
That pipe is way too high. Id get a non PS manifold.
Also if you run on road I can make some low shocktowers that take shorter shocks, I already have some drawn in CAD.

[doesgo]

I did a search and can't find anything on this, so here goes:

Do you know of a way to run a small-block with a threaded crank in an RC10GT? I can cut the shaft, but I doing so will prevent me from swapping engines between my GT, my on-road, and my HPI Nitro MT.

Did AE ever put threaded crank engines in the GT? If not, has anyone tried the Losi Triple-XNT setup on the GT? Seems like it should work, they have the same pitch on the gears, as long as it positions the bell in the right spot.

Any suggestions?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by rocknbil
.... Bolink 2225 Explorer's. . . .
UGH. Late night. 2224's.

[cbr74]

rocknbil.. I covet thy paint rack. I've seen HS' with less selection than that.

;)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by cbr74
rocknbil.. I covet thy paint rack.

Yeah, most of the rows are full or two rows deep.

Well it was a true stroke of luck. A shop was going out of biz and selling their entire stock on eBay, this part of it was for 175+ bottles, most of them new and unopened, got the whole thing for $123 or so + shipping (can't remember exact $$.) When I asked him, he sent me the rack just for the cost of shipping.

There's some bad to this story. Some of the used bottles (there were about 25 or so partily used) weren't tightened and leaked during shipping, some of it bleeding out of the package. I'm surprised USPS didn't kill the shipment. Didn't lose too many though.

He shipped the metal rack UPS, (don't get me started (http://www.nytebyte.com/upssucks/), this was not my first bad experience with brown) and they mutilated it, had to do a lot of tweaking to get it right again.

But as in anything else on eBay, when you step back and look at the big picture, and the fact that each Pactra bottle goes for about $2.75 . . . it was still a good deal.

Screw that it was an AWESOME deal. :D

[Toyotatogo]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Toyota
That pipe is way too high. Id get a non PS manifold.
Also if you run on road I can make some low shocktowers that take shorter shocks, I already have some drawn in CAD.
sure how much would i owe you?
Thats the only header they have that will fit ... If I go with a non-pullstart header it will touch the left rear tire and burn .. :(

@rock
I may have to measure these tires for that body to fit they are kinda close even with the normal gt body. also the whole left side of the body will have to be cut out because the header and pipe makes the bodies look silly :(

[Snoozy]

Originally posted by Toyotatogo
sure how much would i owe you?
Thats the only header they have that will fit ... If I go with a non-pullstart header it will touch the left rear tire and burn .. :(

@rock
I may have to measure these tires for that body to fit they are kinda close even with the normal gt body. also the whole left side of the body will have to be cut out because the header and pipe makes the bodies look silly :(

I'd see if your local exhaust shop can make you a custom manifold.

[rocknbil]

I donno, paypal me $15, which would include shipping? Especially since neither of us knows if it would work for you. Unless you want me to paint it.

See how I have it sitting over the other body? The "lip" fits down on the inside of the wheels with about 1/2" all around from the wheel to the body, it looks like there's enough clearance unless your 1/8 wheels go farther in toward the chassis than stock wheels. What I was thinking is the oversized body would have enough room to fit over your pipe? Donno. Can't guarantee it for you unless you drive over tomorrow and check it out. Aw c'mon, if you start driving now you could be up here before sundown tomorrow. (LA->Oregon) :D

[LoSick]

Toyotatogo, what kind of rims and tires are you running?

[rocknbil]

^ ^ Hee hee. Toyota's got a Frankenstein GT there, follow it's birth in this thread (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=135553). :D

[slow one 2]

rocknbill;
ofna makes a purple throttle linkage. I just saw it on tower hobby. don't know if ya saw it or not but thought it would be great for your wifes truck. well maybe not cause that would make it faster, then she would really blow your doors off on the track!!!! part # 10725

any one know where I can get some red 4-40 lock nuts?

[rocknbil]

^ ^ Yeah that's what we got, just haven't put it on yet. :D

[dog8spam]

I was talking about making a slammed shock tower, not custom manifold.

[Toyotatogo]

Originally posted by dog8spam
I was talking about making a slammed shock tower, not custom manifold.

I was talking about making a slammed shock tower too ? :confused:

[cbr74]

slow one 2.... red 4-40 nylocks:

http://www.fastener-express.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=295

[Snoozy]

I went to the local BMX track to bash today - blew my clutch bearings. I'm slowing making this damn thing bullet proof. Can I use my cut crank picco to install the traxxas clutch without issue?

[cbr74]

Shouldn't have a problem. The Traxxas short crank and AE short crank are very close to the same dimensions.

[tarvymoto]

Does the GT have ball-bearing steering?

[The King]

Originally posted by Toyotatogo
X-Tee Ha !

What motor is that you have on the truck?

Also isn't the hot nitro fuel and oil eventually going to remove the painted surface?

:)

Here is my trucky

http://pic10.picturetrail.com/VOL320/1049490/3623584/41949966.jpg

I would like to have the same truck here in Wisconsin. Can you tell me more of what I need to get the .21 conversion done. Also what I need to get those wheels.

Thanks

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by tarvymoto
Does the GT have ball-bearing steering?

No. If you put a BB steering in the GT you circumnavigate the servo-saver function built into the linkage, and will require one of those sloppy on-servo savers, thereby negating any advantage you hope to achieve with a BB steering setup . . . in my opinion I've never needed anything but the stock steering in the AE trucks.


King - follow this link (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=135553) and read the whole torrid story. :D Same link I posted above.

[tarvymoto]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rocknbil
[B]No. If you put a BB steering in the GT you circumnavigate the servo-saver function built into the linkage, and will require one of those sloppy on-servo savers, thereby negating any advantage you hope to achieve with a BB steering setup . . . in my opinion I've never needed anything but the stock steering in the AE trucks.


The reason why I ask is that I recently bought a "Team Built" kit to convert into a Sprint , and the steering is way too tight. What can I do to free it up? I'd almost rather sacrifice a servo that put up with it. Maybe I just need to fittle with it a bit?
Thanks

[rocknbil]

Hmm . . .shouldn't be tight . . . try loosening the plastic nuts on the tops of the steering linkage screws a little? They won't come loose, but are not supposed to be torqued tight enough to bind the linkage. A little MMO wouldn't hurt, and they'll loosen up with use.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

EY fellas long time no type.
im in Europe now(was in australia)
there is a lack of r/c here also so i cant win.
my gt is still in australia but ima get it here soon and take sum vids of a aussy gt in the snow

[tarvymoto]

Originally posted by rocknbil
Hmm . . .shouldn't be tight . . . try loosening the plastic nuts on the tops of the steering linkage screws a little? They won't come loose, but are not supposed to be torqued tight enough to bind the linkage. A little MMO wouldn't hurt, and they'll loosen up with use.

That was the first thing I tried, but it's not the nuts. Seems like the screws/rods are to tight inside the assembly. I have the entire steering assembly off the truck. I'll sort it out somehow.

[dog8spam]

Toyta- Looking at your car more the shock tower wont help you any since it probably wouldnt even allow a shock from a tc3 to fit in there. What you would need to do is lower the a-arms by extending the carriers down, then you can lower the shocks. You would also need to raise the camber link to match the steering geometry.

[rocknbil]

Well good luck tarvy, I don't know why it would be so tight, and it will loosen with use. If it really bugs ya, many people DO use the after-market BB steering upgrade (RPM I think?) I just have never needed it.

[BTE214]

I know there are quite a few posts on this, but can anyone post a pic of their ofna linkage setup for a rotary carb. I have an idea of how it goes, but I want to make sure it's right.

Thanks in advance.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by RCracer214
... can anyone post a pic of their ofna linkage setup for a rotary carb...

Here's a pic right from this thread (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1209504#post1209504). The only thing I do differently is run the brake rod under the throttle, just a preference.

[dog8spam]

I have an RC10 with BB steering and it isnt worth the money. I finally ended up buying a some bellcranks from the GT because it was such a pain.

[BTE214]

Thanks for the pic rocknbil. Do you cut the rod after installing the throttle and use it as the brak rod also? Or is that a whole differant rod altogether? This is all the hardware I have so I hope it's all i need.

[rocknbil]

Hmm ya got me there, I could SWEAR the kit came with two rods but I could be wrong. Got an unopened purple one for the wife's GT and mine's set up with a blue set, alum. horns, I'll check it out when I get to them tonight.

Originally posted by dog8spam
I have an RC10 with BB steering ... finally ended up buying a some bellcranks from the GT . . .

Hee hee . . hey dog8 . . . how many BB 'crank sets do you have in your jockey box? :D I've got three I think, ripped out from AE chassis I rescued. :D

[tarvymoto]

Originally posted by dog8spam
I have an RC10 with BB steering and it isnt worth the money. I finally ended up buying a some bellcranks from the GT because it was such a pain.

Can you elaborate on that a bit? What was such a pain. I had a RC10T with the MIP bb stearing ... and it was butter.

My prob seems to come from the portion w/ the servo saver...that shaft if too tight in the assembly. I tried to use a slight amount of bearing lube on it but that didn't do much. I may have to ream the top plastic bushing...or sand the long shaft. Anyway , I'll get a handle on it.

Thanks guys

[Snoozy]

I use the MIP BB steering, I don't run a server save when racing. (I also don't hit walls, not because I'm fast but because I can't afford to) When bashing I use a kimbrough on the server saver, its pretty tight, never had a problem with my 605BB

[rocknbil]

^ ^ <faints> Tarvo thou hast wounded me mortally. :D My 10T's are bone stock up front (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html). Whatever works for ya, a lot of people go with the BB's. I just stuck some battery end-caps (you know, the plastic thingies) under the cranks when they started to wear.


Originally posted by RCracer214
Do you cut the rod after installing the throttle and use it as the brak rod also?
Yeah I pulled out the wife's purple linkage, (and consequently taunted her for not getting it installed,) and sure enough only one rod. I never noticed it, what were they thinking . . . well it is for an OFNA, maye the OFNA doesn't need one. I say use your old brake link or get a new rod to match it.

Little blurry but here's my setup, looked like a good angle at the time but hey it's the end of an 18 hour day soooooory . . . .

[cbr74]

I run the MIP BB steering with a Kimbrough saver and JR Z570. Works great for me.

[dog8spam]

I dont know what kind it was but it had this plastic piece that the bearings slid on, and at the bottom was a nut molded in that was so thin that a socket couldnt grip it. Also the bearings barely fit and by the second time I had to take it apart it was so mutilated I just threw it away and got a some new GT ones from tower.

[tarvymoto]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by rocknbil
^ ^ <faints> Tarvo thou hast wounded me mortally. :D My 10T's are [B]bone stock up front (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html). Whatever works for ya, a lot of people go with the BB's. I just stuck some battery end-caps (you know, the plastic thingies) under the cranks when they started to wear.


LOL...was it the "Sand the shaft" part that wounded you. :eek:

[AErc10gt]

Hi, im having a problem with my engine servo and engine. First, my engine servo opens the carb. only about 1/4 of the way. I opened up servo and all gears are ok. When i have the car on like I said the carb. opens 1/4 the way.



Second, the engine. I took my car out the other day and it started fine which is normal (LOL). I drove it up my driveway and coming back it went half way and stalled. I went and started it and barely touched the throttle and it stalled. Second try it went 2 feet and stalled. On the third, fourth, and fifth try it stalled as soon as i touched throttle like the first try.


I hope someone has experienced this or knows how to fix these 2 problems. I would really appreciate it if anyone could help.


Thanks, AErc10gt.

[dave mac]

If you have a epa for throttle adjustment on your pistol, it could be that , see what percentage it is set at.


Dave mac

[rocknbil]

Welcome aboard AErc10gt! Lots of pple here to help.

First I'm going to say you can probably resolve the throttle by some wrenching, a couple other possibilities exist, including DaveMac's suggestion that you bumped the EPA OR the trim.

First can you go over what radio you have and your understanding of it's functions? Just in case, trim sets the center point of the radio signal to the car, EPA adjusts the End Point, where the servo stops (up to it's mechanical limit.) Of the two, this one's least likely to go out of whack as it usually requires a tiny screwdriver or the adjustment is usually put out of the way so it doesn't get bumped. There is also a dual-rate (D/R) adjustment that turns down the overall "throw" of the servo for various reasons and this one IS sometimes in a handy place where it can get bumped.

If it was working OK before, there also exists the possibility the servo is beginning to wear out. Do you know what model of servo it is? Or maybe something went goofy with the linkage.

As for the dying, this is most likely going to be a tuning issue. There are other things that can cause it - a sticky clutch, burned out glow plug, lots of stuff - but chances are it's is a bit out of tune. Try leaning your high speed needle (the big one sticking out of the carb, turn it clockwise) 1/8 turn, not much. If the condition gets worse, then you are too lean and need to enrich, turn it counterclockwise 1/8 turn past where it was.

Generally you need to tune every time you run, as changing temperature and barometric conditions require different settings from day to day or even hour to hour.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Did we find out if the larger bodyshell covers the exhaust ? I have the same problem with mine, bought an Atomik bodyshell that is nowhere near fitting :mad:

Rocknbil, do you ship to UK :D

[slow one 2]

x-tee ha
try the trinity rear exaust header (RC8125). It will bring your pipe in about an inch closer to the engine. Since I put that one on my truck it rubs no more. :) :o :D ;) :p

[X-Tee Ha !]

Excellent ! Thanks. I had a look on Tower Hobbies, looks perfect, trouble is, they have discontinued it :( Is there anywhere else you may know of that would stock it ? Could do with UK shipping really but I'll sort that out if I can find the supplier.

Ta ! :)

[rocknbil]

^ ^ I could if you want to cover for the shipping. Look the pics over real well and read the descriptions, I have no idea how well they would work out for you but you can get a pretty good idea from the regular GT basher body next to it.


Originally posted by AErc10gt
Hi, im having a problem with my engine servo and engine. ....
AErc -I don't know why I didn't think of this, or no one else mentioned it - probably because I have had my OFNA linkage for so long - but it came to me after the previous post.

The barrel-clamp on the throttle linkage has a little set screw that holds it in place. Sometimes when you brake, the screw loses it's grip on the throttle rod and slides back away from the carb, so it won't open the carb up all the way. It's entirely possible you may only need to loosen the set screw, adjust the barrel clamp's position, and re-tighten the set screw.

** smacks forehead ** doh.

[LoSick]

X-Tee Ha !, try the new rear exhaust from Losi, it is designed to fit within truck bodies and with italian engines on mind

[Polk]

Hey guys

Im looking at buying the RB ,12 3 port with rear exhaust. Most of the guys at my track are running this.

Just wondering if anyone can link me (ebay as well) to a manifold/header for it seeing as we are on the topic of them!

Many thanks!

[AErc10gt]

Originally posted by rocknbil
^ ^ I could if you want to cover for the shipping. Look the pics over real well and read the descriptions, I have no idea how well they would work out for you but you can get a pretty good idea from the regular GT basher body next to it.



AErc -I don't know why I didn't think of this, or no one else mentioned it - probably because I have had my OFNA linkage for so long - but it came to me after the previous post.

The barrel-clamp on the throttle linkage has a little set screw that holds it in place. Sometimes when you brake, the screw loses it's grip on the throttle rod and slides back away from the carb, so it won't open the carb up all the way. It's entirely possible you may only need to loosen the set screw, adjust the barrel clamp's position, and re-tighten the set screw.

** smacks forehead ** doh.





rocknbil your right!!!!!!!! but i tried that and it only opens half way now and when brake is engaged it almost shuts the carb. all the way. Im really confused on how to fix it.

[rocknbil]

But when you do so, the spring on the rod compresses, right? Then all you have to do is adjust the idle screw only if it shuts down the engine when you hit the brakes. You turn it in 1/16 turn at a time or so so it holds the carb open at the right idle, usually you'll see an opening about or just less than the thickness of a credit card.

Most idle screws are a stop screw, that is, if the carb body is at closed, it's already going to be pressing against the end of the idle screw - it's a good idea to open the carb to release the pressure before turning the idle screw inward.

[X-Tee Ha !]

OK Rocknbil, I'll take a closer look if I can't get the manifolds suggested here in the UK :(

Slightly off topic, but there seems quite a few knowledgeable people in here, how does a 4 stroke get lubricated ? I've bought an OS FS26C 4 Stroke for a GT project in the future but just wondered how they were oiled, it only does 22000 rpm but it cant run dry surely :confused:

[Polk]

Somebody!!!!! I need some part numbers for rear exhaust manifolds that will work on the GT!! :)

[hooverimg]

I recently changed the clutch bell on my GT from a 15T / 66T ratio to a 17T / 66T ratio (OS .12 CV-RX). I was going for more top end speed...however it seemed to do the opposite and give me more low end.

FACTS:
Before I changed the clutch bell I was able to easily spin my spur gear and cluctch bell by hand with little resistants. However, after I made the change there was way more resistants with the 17T / 66T setup. Furthermore, the car used to idle without the tires spining....now that there is a tighter resisitants between the spur geat 66T and the clutch bell 17T the car will not stand still at idle.

Does anybody know why the resistants is tighter on the 17T clutch bell?

Also how do I increase / decrease the resistants between the Spur Gear and Clutch Bell?

Any thoughts, on a better setup with the gears for my GT? All comments/suggestions welcomed!

[Snoozy]

Did you change your gear mesh by adjusting the positioning of the engine? Put a piece of paper between the gears, they should be that far apart.

Originally posted by hooverimg
I recently changed the clutch bell on my GT from a 15T / 66T ratio to a 17T / 66T ratio (OS .12 CV-RX). I was going for more top end speed...however it seemed to do the opposite and give me more low end.

FACTS:
Before I changed the clutch bell I was able to easily spin my spur gear and cluctch bell by hand with little resistants. However, after I made the change there was way more resistants with the 17T / 66T setup. Furthermore, the car used to idle without the tires spining....now that there is a tighter resisitants between the spur geat 66T and the clutch bell 17T the car will not stand still at idle.

Does anybody know why the resistants is tighter on the 17T clutch bell?

Also how do I increase / decrease the resistants between the Spur Gear and Clutch Bell?

Any thoughts, on a better setup with the gears for my GT? All comments/suggestions welcomed!

[Wallis Racing]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !
Slightly off topic, but there seems quite a few knowledgeable people in here, how does a 4 stroke get lubricated ? I've bought an OS FS26C 4 Stroke for a GT project in the future but just wondered how they were oiled, it only does 22000 rpm but it cant run dry surely :confused:

They actually just use the fuel for lubrication. Im not 100% pos about the RC engines, but with real scale, the reason you put 2 stroke oil in fuel for 2 strokes is because they are exploding every 2nd stroke, so they need the lubrication, but a four stroke only explodes ever 4th stroke, so it actaully uses the fuel as its own lubricant.

Anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

[1tuffRC10]

Snoozy, no matter what your gear mesh is, that thing should sit and idle without moving. Check your clutch, it may be dragging. If it's the stock clutch, well I don't like them so good luck. If it's the MIP then check and see if the holes are elongated. This will cause the clutch to drag. Also check your clutch bearings. If your mesh is too tight it could be putting pressure on the bearings and causing them to bind and heat up.

[dog8spam]

Slightly off topic, but there seems quite a few knowledgeable people in here, how does a 4 stroke get lubricated ? I've bought an OS FS26C 4 Stroke for a GT project in the future but just wondered how they were oiled, it only does 22000 rpm but it cant run dry surely

Wallis, I hate to say it but you are wrong. Four strokes can use separate oil because the fuel doesnt go through the crankcase. Oil simply sits in the bottom or the oil pan and the turning crankshaft splashes it where it needs to go, or there will be a pump that will force it where it needs to go. The fuel is pumped through valves and never even gets to any moving parts, so mixing oil in is pointless since it hurts performance.

Two strokes cannot use this method because thier fuel comes through the crankcase. Using the crankcase as a pump is the most efficient way for a two stroke to get fuel, and since you cant have pure fuel going through pure oil and the parts need oil, oil is added to the fuel.

[hooverimg]

The mesh is find...not to tight no to lose.

The clutch is the MIP...#1 setup (they no longer sell the weights to give u the #2 setup with the kit).

I will re-check and see if the clutch bearing is too tight.

Does anyone know any other way to increase / decrease the resistants of the clucth bell?

[X-Tee Ha !]

Thanks for the answers, that's pretty much what I thought, the fuel/oil goes in through the inlet valve and out through the exhaust valve, it never gets down to the crankshaft :confused: Or up to the valve train but I took the cover off and there is grease in there. Is there an oil sump ? It doesn't mention it in the manual :confused:

Here's the top off :

[X-Tee Ha !]

It's only about the size of a 12CVR but it's a .26, 4.3cc :D It's lovely :D

Hope it fits the GT :cool:

[Snoozy]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !
It's only about the size of a 12CVR but it's a .26, 4.3cc :D It's lovely :D

Hope it fits the GT :cool:

You are going to need some taaaaalll gears and sticky tires!

[Snoozy]

Mine is starting to elongate, can I just flip it over to use the other set of holes? I this way the spring would be against the flywheel. Does this matter?

[rocknbil]

That should be interesting, the general consensus is that 4 strokes are not the best power for the size in ground vehicles (4/s=more torque less RPM, 2/s = higher RPM/less torque,) let us know how it turns out.

Also most will tell you a .20+ engine will make mincemeat out of your tranny but a few have done the conversion, also let us know how it goes.

Snoozy you mean your MIP shoes? I'd just get new ones, but I'll have to take a refresher look tonight to see if I can figger out what you mean.

Edit: That 4/stroke is this one, right, or the next version of it?

FS-26S-C
Displacement: 0.269 cu in (4.4 cc)
Bore: 0.728 in (18.5 mm)
Stroke: 0.648 in (16.4 mm)
Practical rpm: 2000-22,000
Output: 0.5 ps @ 17,000 rpm
Power Output: 0.5 bhp (ps) @ 17,000 rpm

compared to a comaprable displacement 2/s:

.21 VZ-B(P)
Displacement: 0.211 cu in (3.5cc)
Bore: 0.654 in (16.6mm)
Stroke: 0.630 in (16.0mm)
Practical rpm: 3,000-40,000
Power Output: 2.45 ps @ 32,000 rpm


Dayyum. Sweet. One of these days I'm going to afford a new engine . . . :D

[X-Tee Ha !]

Rocknbil, that's the one, 0.5 HP, it is low powered I know (comparitively) but I had a 12CV GT with .56 HP and it was very quick so I would be happy with something approaching that. Still, I'd be quite happy to "chug" around sounding nice :D Doubt if it would win any performance prizes though :(

Max RPM is 22000 so it would need tall gearing as Snoozy said too :eek:

[dog8spam]

Everything I said was for 1:1 cars, about the RC four strokes it could just be a two stroke regulated by valves. If you are using standard 20% fuel it still may be using the fuel as lubericant.

[X-Tee Ha !]

I think it is definately a 4 stroke, if you turn the crank over by hand you get a compression feel and you can see that the valves are closed, then the piston goes right to the bottom before the exhaust valve opens, it then stays open as the piston comes back up and there is no compression at all. At about the top the exhaust valve closes and the other one opens and the piston goes back down before finally coming back up again with both valves closed. Seems to when turning by hand anyway.

I just cant see how the fuel (oil) can get down to the crankshaft that potentially can be turning at 22000 rpm, without oil ? :confused:

[Snoozy]

Nitro 4-strokes use oil in the fuel just like the 2-strokers. It is a hybrid :-P

[X-Tee Ha !]

Yes, but how does it get to the crankshaft ? It simply goes in the inlet, out the exhaust, done. Carb is at the top right behind the inlet valve - on a 2 stroke the carb is in the middle above the crank and the mixture travels through the bowels of the engine (lubricating it) first and then pops into the cylinder through the ports. Not on this it doesn't. :confused:

[Snoozy]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !
Yes, but how does it get to the crankshaft ? It simply goes in the inlet, out the exhaust, done. Carb is at the top right behind the inlet valve - on a 2 stroke the carb is in the middle above the crank and the mixture travels through the bowels of the engine (lubricating it) first and then pops into the cylinder through the ports. Not on this it doesn't. :confused:

Maybe its already packed with grease?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !
.... it is low powered I know (comparitively)....

Well the numbers are confusing.

It is my understanding that you get more torque out of a 4-stroke than a 2 stroke, so even though you see
Power Output: 0.5 bhp (ps) @ 17,000 rpm
vs
Power Output: 2.45 ps @ 32,000 rpm

It's supposed to be stronger. *shrug.* Donno. :D I'd bet anything the power output of the two-stroke at 17K would be less than the 4-stroke.

The only problem with tall gears on a GT is you run out of room to slide it too far forward or back. I hope you're up to all the challenges it might throw your way. :D

Yes, but how does it get to the crankshaft ? It simply goes in the inlet, out the exhaust, done.

The fuel atomizes (fine spray) upon introduction to the inlet. It collects - and very quickly - on the insides of the engine, runs down, and specialized grooves and marks in the spinning crancase guide it to where it's supposed to go.

Just FYI, when you're burning fuel you're not burning the liquid, you're burning the ATOMIZED portion of what's left of what goes in the carb, the part that's adequately turned to near-gas to combust under pressure.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

does any1 have a list of what hops they got?

[Fantom 15 gt]

Started off as a Team Kit heres what ive put it:

Trinity rear alu tranny brace
Trinity rear alu bulkhead
Trinity alu nose braces
Trinity alu front servo mount
RPM front/rear body mounts
RPM blue rear arm mounts
RPM A-Arms all round
RPM mini front bumper
RPM ball cups
MIP CVD'S
MIP blue shock seals
MIP 4-1 clutch
MIP light weight fl wheel
MIP heavy weight flywheel
Lunsford ti rear turnbuckles
Mugen reciver box
RRP 65/15 steel clutch bell combo
RRP Alu diff gear
RRP steel idler
Odonnel blue alu washers
Bearing in slipper
Ofna throttle linkage
Heavy duty alu non-pull engine mount
Alu body studs
Asso dual front/rear carbon shock towers
Asso alu shock caps
Asso ti front turnbuckles
Asso alu brake hub
Asso steel/alu lock nuts
Asso b4 rear axles
Asso b4 axle spacers
Asso reverse fill fuel tank
Asso TRS
Asso b4 blue axles
Asso b4 steering blocks
Asso b4 caster blocks
Asso shock down stop
Airtronics steering servo
JR throttle servo
Futaba reciver
Futaba controler
1100 nimh reciver pack
Dynamite starter box
Lots and Lots of tires
Pro line croud pleaser body
Motorsaver 1/8 filter
S/H fuel filter
Replaced little foam thingies with o-rings

Soon to come:

RB V15T 5 port turbo with threded crank

I think thats every thing

Not bad for an aussie gt eh?:cool:

[dog8spam]

Ive made alot of my own parts since I dont have much money.

[X-Tee Ha !]

I just CAN'T seem to get the Losi Manifold "A9347" for my GT in the UK :mad:

Are there any kind fellows in here who may have an LHS with a couple in stock ? (one for my friend too) And who could accept Paypal ?

Shipping to the UK is very straightforward, goes from the Post Office the same, I just pay a little more shipping :D

A little more info here :

http://ircalc.usps.gov/weight.asp?Contents=1

Can anyone help ? :)

Thanks !

[rocknbil]

^ ^

X-Tee, locate where I can order the part and I'll hep' ya, talk to Polk and MonsterBlazer for refs.

Originally posted by dog8spam
Ive made alot of my own parts since I dont have much money.

hahaha

That's nothing. We didn't need no steekeen' high-tech RC's when we were kids, we pulled a stick outta da' gutter and put a nick in it, THERE'S YOUR RC! AND WE LIKED IT, HEY MIKEY! :D

</insane moment>

[Snoozy]

Anyone know if Dave Crenzki died or something? I ordered my break kit almost two weeks ago and its not here. It doesn't take THAT long to get to Louisiana!

[MonsterBlazer#1]

Fantom
where in aus u from man
im from w.a

[Fantom 15 gt]

Hey monsterblazer im in the top half of w.a. the pilbera

[X-Tee Ha !]

Rocknbil, THANKS :D

I have found it at "E-Hobbies" but they will not take Paypal for International orders and anyway the Shipping is horrendous ! It's about $55, there's something wrong there !

The Part No. is A9347 and if searched here it's the second result down (Losi)

http://search.ehobbies.com/

Shipping details to UK can be found here :

http://ircalc.usps.gov/weight.asp?Contents=1

I don't mind paying up front so you are not out of pocket, it's the LAST item we need to complete our GT's (My buddy is shoe horning an OS RX15 in his - somehow !)

My e-mail is scinet7000@yahoo.co.uk if you needed it.

Thanks again :cool:

[LoSick]

X-Tee Ha !, have you checked tower . don´t know if the hpi rear header will fit as you wish, but they do ship to the Uk and it´s not that expensive as ehobbies.

[rocknbil]

^^ Care to check that out first? No problem here either way.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Hi Losick, thanks for that but I am sure the HPI header is for the touring car R40 ? This is the same as the majority of all rear exhaust headers, like the one I have fitted, and they push out hugely, forcing the body out. The only manifold that appears to sit in nicely is the Losi A9347 and MST-1 manifold, both designed for 2WD Trucks. Thanks though. (please see pic below of the HPI type manifold fitted to my GT)

Rocknbil, definately still want the A9347 x 2 please if it's not too much hassle for you.

Many thanks :)

(Losick, here's the difference between a bad "saloon car" type rear exhaust header and the standard GT manifold)

[LoSick]

X-Tee Ha !, the hpi header is for the rs4, but does not have enough clearance compared to the losi header.ge the losi!
looking your pic, what brand is the fuel line?seems nice that blue!

[rocknbil]

OK I'll look into it this weekend, but don't get to impatient, I'm a lazy ba**tard. :D Heh. No just busy, I'll contact you.

[AErc10gt]

Ok my car rarely starts now i did what u said and when i start it, it rarely tries to start. But when it does the throttle is like pulled down all the way. So now the trouble is i think my engine is hydro locked. i tried starting it and the fly wheel wont budge so the piston is like froze. so can any1 help.

[Budman_222]

If it's hydro locked, pull the glow plug out and turn it over a few times. It will blow the excess fuel out the plug hole. Don't look in there to see what's happening when you spin it over. :D


Bud

[rocknbil]

By "what I said," you mean the linkage issue?

Turn on all your electronics, take off the air filter, and move the transmitter between idle and FULL BRAKE. Look into the carb, do you still see a sliver of an opening? If not, adjust your idle screw inward so it stays open at least 1mm, about the thickness of a credit card, at idel and full brake.

If it opens and closes between idle and brake, you need to adjust your linkage again, or turn your TX trim toward brake. It should stay at that same idle opening in both positions.

As for the hydrolock yeah, what Budman said, but don't over-prime it when you try to start.

[Polk]

Ugh, Linkage issues...I feel your pain man.

Ive just got shipment notification of my OS .12 CVR...:D Anything you guys think I should know before I install/fire up this bad boy?

:cool: Ta.

[AErc10gt]

The problem was... Well i took my engine apart a lil bit and found these 3 broken/chipped parts:broke connection rod, chipped starting axle, and chipped pull start backplate. this is goin to be bout $35+shipping from AE. Thanks anyway guys.

[dog8spam]

I would send the whole engine back to Associated. That sounds like a manufacurers defect if parts chipped off the actual crankshaft and con rod.

[AErc10gt]

ya thats what im goin to do. With my car manual i have a certificate like paper that says my engine is free of defects and workmanship, and if any problem contact them. which i will do and tell them whats wrong and if i can send it in.

[FlashLCD33]

Is the RPM bumper and arms needed? I just jump and bash so the extra weight or w/e is nothing.

[offroadcrazy01]

AE just step into game and get a os- tr or a cv you will be happy you did that rtr engine is not that great engine anyway,40 more bucks and you can it a os-cv off of tower

[dog8spam]

Check this out!

[dog8spam]

Thats not me, thats my friend who has a B4. The next one Joe was driving, and he had just taken lots of pain-killers for his kidney. He didnt do to well.

[dog8spam]

One more. Im the one in the deniem jacket, joe is the other.

Ive got stock a-arms, and that GT held up through the whole day. I couldnt believe it myself, especially after Joe and Daniels lack of control in the air.

[BTE214]

That is some nice air!! :eek: :eek: And nothing broken, even better! What did you use to make that jump out of?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
... Ive just got shipment notification of my OS .12 CVR...:D Anything you guys think I should know before I install/fire up this bad boy?...

You lucky little $%#$%#$ :D

Good for you man, visit the osengines FAQ page and just learn their break-in procedure by heart, she'll serve ye well.

Oh and the manual is has misleading language, I can't remember the exact wording but it says "not to put ARO in the inlet" - they mean the FUEL inlet - there are clarifications on the FAQ page as well, a teaspoon down the AIR inlet is fine.

[Polk]

LUCKY!! I wouldnt say that!!

First I was winning a RB C12 on ebay for a BARGAIN price, until i got out bid in the last 3 seconds...3 SECONDS!

Then I said screw it and ordered the OS and some other bits off tower...only to find out that the DAY AFTER you can get $15 off with every order over $150...My order came out to $160 or so...Gutted

And to top it all off, the day I placed my order the exchange rate plummeted...causing me to lose even more $$...


:o

[MonsterBlazer#1]

Fantom 15 gt

im not in wa anymore
not for a year...
hehe decided to stretch the gt's legs in some europian climate:rolleyes:

[X-Tee Ha !]

Blimey ! That's some jump :D

Losick, the fuel pipe was GS Silicones ?? or something like that. It's a nice bright blue isn't it :)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
LUCKY!! I wouldnt say that!!

Heh. Allow me to glow some sunshine your way . . .

The engines you buy on eBay almost always have "some" sort of defect. If it's advertised as brand new, it might only be a nick or something, but there's no warranty, and no guarantee some snotnose hasn't taken it out of the box and fiddled with it. Unless you're willing to accept that, it's not the same as new. There is nothing like a BRAND NEW, untainted engine. :D

As for three seconds, if you're serious about bidding on eBay, you have to learn to snipe, no doubt about it.

Fifteen bucks? Yeah oh well. Who cares. You have a brand new engine coming. :D

[KanaiDude]

Raced my GT this weekend for the first time and came in 7th out of 18! WEEE, I guess a few years of 1/8 scale helped a little. Questions, what clutch do you all run, 2 shoe or mip clutch? What type of block do you use in the back, is the trinity alluminum one okay or do you need more angle I'm not even sure what degree the trinity block is.

Just for my 2cents on ebay just be smart theres a million killer deals on there, but don't buy an engine out of its bag from someone with poor feedback or something. If you see an engine on ebay you like ask questions! is it out of the bag? fuel touched it? was it taken apart? Unless they answer all these questions quickly and they have perfect feedback don't buy from them! I have bought a P5 and Sirio both .21's and got killer deals on them on ebay, but I was patient asked questions, it can take a while...

[Polk]

The RB was NIB from the hobby shop, so i trusted them. Ah well. I did snipe by the way...at the 10 second mark cause my internet aint so reliable! :(


I use the the MIP 4n1 clutch...No comparison to the stock at all...beats it in every way. All though rocknbil here says he cant tell the difference...Eh

:)

[rocknbil]

^ ^ Hey but both my wife and I run them, we're cool. Just ask me, I'll tell you so. :D heee hee

I just never had the problems everyone seems to have with the stocks. ** shrug **

[The King]

I have the os .15 cv rx and I want to try this one http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLU03&P=0

@ my race track we race all motors together. Do you think getting this motor will help me go a little faster?

[cbr74]

#1 Getting a big block shoe horned into a GT is an accomplishment in itself. It CAN be done, but it's by no means an easy mod.

#2 A Big Block in a featherweight stadium truck like the RC10GT creates a vehicle that's nearly impossible to drive effectively. The power to weight ratio is just too much for most drivers to handle... and on a track.. it's even worse.

[dog8spam]

I would stick with a .12 for racing. Ive got a .12 OS CV and I just run it a little lean at races, it has plenty of power. If you arent experienced at racing, like me, you wont want as much power as the other guys because you wont stay on the track.

[The King]

The track that I race on is an on road oval. I have no problems staying on the track, the problem I have is hitting the wall coming out of the corners LOL It sould like it is more trouble then it is worth to go .21:(

[LoSick]

I´d play with the ratios isntead of getting a 21, an 18x62 is what I´ve used on asphalt oval for bikes. I´d use a radar gun to see how fast it goes.

[KanaiDude]

I have a sirio .12 its a beast, I have more then enough power, just invest in a higher end .12. I can't imagine making your truck go straight with all that power, you'd probablly fry a diff up pretty quick to.

[X-Tee Ha !]

I've got a Novarossi RS12T5S2 that is just waiting for a Losi Rear Exhaust Manifold *Rocknbil hopefully :D * so I can get my body shell on but I was trying it with the "wrong" manifold and it was nothing short of breathtaking, I simply CANNOT believe the throttle response, as fast as you can flick the throttle stick the thing just barks rpm, there doesn't seem to be any spooling up at all, it's just gone or at tickover :D

It's only a .12 but quite impossible (for me) to use, it just leaps everywhere with ballooning tyres, a .21 must be worse !

I'm going to put a self tapper in the remote to limit throttle travel in an attempt to get some control :D

[X-Tee Ha !]

That's better :D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !
....waiting for a Losi Rear Exhaust Manifold *Rocknbil hopefully ....
Sorry man, I got stuck pulling a 500 lb tree stump out of our front yard this weekend. Haven't forgotten.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Thanks Rocknbil, I appreciate it's hassle, most grateful to you ! :)

[Henry GG]

Hey guys, I was tunin’ up my gt + today when I noticed this e-clip was gone. I noticed it when the pin was sticking out so far that it was rubbing on my rim. Do I need to buy a new clip, or do you think I can improvise? Oh, one more thing. I’m considering upgrading my engine. What do you think would be a good engine around the $150 range?

[X-Tee Ha !]

Do I need to buy a new clip

You do :D

$150 should get a nice engine, how about a nice OS12/15CVR from Tower Hobbies ?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Henry GG
... I noticed this e-clip was gone....

Get a bunch of them, those buggers always pop off, ESPECIALLY up front (but they don't move as much there.)

X-Tee, it's no hassle. Now the STUMP . . . THAT was a hassle.

[1tuffRC10]

I bought a drill and tap then some 4-40 set screws and put them in instead on those clips. A little flat spot on the pin and they never come out! :D

[Anemic_SluG]

Originally posted by Henry GG
I’m considering upgrading my engine. What do you think would be a good engine around the $150 range?

For my money in the $150 dollar range I would go with Fantom. Nobody can touch it's HP to cost. The next 2 engines I would consider is a Mugen MT12 or a OS TR .12. Just my 2 cents. I have ran them all and I personally like the Mugen but my Fantom has been really reliable. The Fantom lacks a little low end compared to the MT 12.

[dog8spam]

I get my e-clips from McMaster Carr. They have stronger clips made out of different materials and also bent clips that eliminate slop.

[dog8spam]

Almost forgot- I would get the OS, they are hard to kill.

[Ymmit07]

I have one question. Seeing i can't email the Adim i was wondering how the hell anyone can navigate these boards and get a question answered? Why don't they have a forum for each vehicle under the Brand name. This place is a frickin mess. How are newbies suppose to know where in the hell to go? A Forum is a place that allows users to post there own threads with there questions and allows otheres to post to it not one frickin thread for one vehicle and and then have to wade through a bunch of garbage.

:confused: :confused: :confused:

[The King]

Holy cow dude:eek:

[X-Tee Ha !]

I've read this thread start to finish and there is a ton of useful info, I've copied and pasted all the relevant stuff for me to a word document sort of "compilation" plus the search facility is good too. What question are you looking for an answer to ?

Rocknbil, sounds one mighty stump that :D Must have left quite a hole, don't drive y' GT in there :D

Quick tyre question if anyone has any pointers, I have the standard kit supplied Proline "Edge" and "Bowties" in M2 compound - I also have "Edge" and "Bowtie" M3 compound but only one set of wheels so not sure which tyres to glue on. I will be running on grass mainly and don't want too much grip giving roll overs at every sharp turn (I had this with a Schumacher XTR21 using Proline Dirt Hawgs, turned over at any slight provocation :mad: ) Are the M3's a lot grippier ? I prefer the "feel" of them out of the box but don't want to have to stop at every corner and tippy toe round so as not to roll over :^) Or aren't GT's like this on grass ?

Ta !

[rocknbil]

YMM in all your ranting you forgot something.

What was your question?

I suppose you'd have to get used to the organization. Seems well enough organized, General, Electric, Nitro, Brushless, and specific Vehicle threads. It wouldn't hurt to check out the organization and post it in the right place.

As for garbage, yeah, everyone has a voice, but most of them put their question before their complaint though, at least then those that want to help might offer it.

[slow one 2]

Ymmit07
you came on this forum which is specifically for the ASSOCIATED FTGT. We talk about our trucks and what we like to do with them. If one of us is having a problem we simply ask. whithin a couple of days there are answers to the questions asked posted by other people who have had that particular problem. However using posts with garbage like you put in will get you the same answers you will get if you talk like that to Associated, no answer at all and barred from this site. if you are having problems with your truck just ask us. if you are having problems with life may I suggest a shrink.:p :p :p

Henry GG
the mt12 is plenty of power for your truck and easy to tune

[1tuffRC10]

Ymmit, What are you fussing about? Forget you meds? LOL

I guess he found the thread he was looking for. I know he found a TC3 thread.

Anyone tried those blue shock seals from MIP? I tried them a while back and they broke. Just wondering if they changed them.

[Ymmit07]

Ok guys sorry i came off a little strong on the rant. It's just when i look at the main board with all these different gt forum v this here and gt forum v that. I guess maybe im just used a different setup.

sorry guys didn't mean to come off so harsh.

No questions about the GT just cant waite to get out and Run it:D

[Tabushi]

The RC10GT RTR PLUS really worth it ? ...

On my rc airplane club we are planning to start racing rc offroad 1/10 creating our own category ... and maybe we will create an RTR category ...

[kilrbzz]

I recently got a GT FT, its my first Nitro after several years in Electric racing. I've done some reading on various sites and have decided to go with .12cv-r , MIP steering & 4n1 clutch, RPM cups and ofna throttle linkage. I'm also considering upgrading the brakes. Any comments or suggestions are welcome. I will be racing and will run 20-30 min mains.

[Ymmit07]

Check this out for a brake. I haven't bought one yet but is on my list of stuff to buy.

Dave Crescenzi GT brake
http://www.rc10gthobby.com/cr_brake.htm

I have heard from numorous people that his brake is th best.

[rocknbil]

Tabushi - follow along -

Originally posted by Ymmit07
... It's just when i look at the main board with all these different gt forum v this here and gt forum v that....

Well this one's easy. The GT forum got so large it was killing the board and dragging it down, they had to keep breaking it into parts. As you can see this is the eighth, we're about due for another "version" soon. The "main page" consists of General, Electric, Nitro . . .etc Forums, down to Vehicle Forums, broken down by manufacturer. It's pretty straightforward once you get used to it.

Tabushi - the previous demonstrates the popularity of the GT, who's only real MAJOR change in the last ten years has been going from the tub to the aluminum chassis. (MAJOR- many other little tweaks over the years.) And in this case, popularity DOES equate to quaility and worth, a poorly designed RC doesn't last long in this biz. HELL YEAH IT'S WORTH IT!! :D Overall I think the GT is more durable and equally as raceworthy as any other ST in it's class.

Originally posted by 1tuffRC10
Anyone tried those blue shock seals from MIP?

Yeah, and I have two or three sets in my box, ya want 'em? :D The rubber is a harder silicone that I'm guessing equates to durability, but what seems to happen is they leak easier because of the hardness. I did a rebuild with them once and they leaked immediately with properly filled shocks. Out they came and I've stayed with the softer stocks ever since.

Originally posted by kilrbzz
... have decided to go with .12cv-r , MIP steering & 4n1 clutch, RPM cups and ofna throttle linkage....

Back up a few pages in this thread and see the discussion about the MIP ball bearing steering, many people regret that decision and wind up ripping it out. Per the above discussion, that is one thing that hasn't changed in any AE truck for over 10 years, except for the length of the bellcranks, because it WORKS. With the BB steering you need to use an on-servo servo saver and it results in a sloppy front end (my opinion) counteracting any advantage you hope to gain with it.

Everything else in your list looks great though, have fun!

[Polk]

:D


OS ARRIVED TODAY..


WEEEEEEEEEE


:D

[Ymmit07]

rocknbil,

Thanks for giving me a little bit of a break down on how everyhitng operates here. Much appreciated, again i apologize for the uncalled for rant.:cool:

Just broke my 1st .12cv-x in a couple weeks ago. and working on breaking in my mip clutch.

I have heard a few horror stories about the MIP steering kit. Thats why i dont have it.

Tim

[1tuffRC10]

ymmit, no problem. LOL That brake system IS the best IMO. The stock ones would last a couple of gallons. That Cryzenski system will last for twice that much fuel at least. I've been running the same one for almost a year now. Still got plenty of brakes! I agree fully with rockinbill about the MIP steering, not good at all. Your clutch should break in very quick. They don't need much attention. Just be sure and use a new clutch bell with it as the teflon shoes will leave a residue of teflon in the bell causing it to slip. You may be able to sand it off but I would still use a new bell.

kilbrz, I never liked those ball cups. We have some tracks that have rhythm sections that will pop off brand new losi cups. That's why I run captured ends. They get a little sloppy after a while but they stay on so you can finish a race. Check out the track at Boggy Creek FL. They have a link on www.rcproseries.com That track was brutal!

[Polk]

HELP!


I need to cut the crank on my new OS to fit the GT, right? But After I cut it, i should then put the special clutch nut on it!!! BUT I DONT HAVE IT!! ARGH!

This is what I need..that means another WEEK! PLUS $10 or so shipping just for that little thing..
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3371&P=7


ARRRRRGGHH!!!!!!!!!

:mad: :mad:

*Rockinbil..You have PM*


:(

[chuckwagon123]

Hello, I just got a used RC10GT and I think it is awsome. I had a Duaratrax Overdrive and sold it because it never tuned right. But this Associated tunes so easily, guess the Overdrive gave me ALOT of experience.

Anyways, like alot of people who just get into nitro I am looking at new engines. I notice that there are alot of different shafts on them.

Which shaft works with the RC10GT (older one that came with Hitec radio)?

Oh and these trucks like to jump!

[1tuffRC10]

Polk, the special nut u need is one to put on the crank before u cut it to chase the threads. That clutch nut should be on your old engine. AE list 3 clutch nuts but all of them I've bought were nearly identical.

chuckwagon, either the short shaft or long shaft will work. But not the pilot shaft.

[1tuffRC10]

Here's a link to that track's website. www.boggycreekraceway.com

[Ymmit07]

Polk,

Don't forget after you cut the nut you will still need to but the AE clutch nut w/a shaft. AE part #7603.

Here is on Tower GT Cllutch Nut w/Shaft (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3371&P=0)

1tuffRC10,
Yeah i ws told my MIP clutch should be broke in byt the 4 tank.

chuckwagon123,
I would highly recommend the O.S. .12 CV-X Which is only $85 on Tower and a O'd Head whichi still think they have them on sale for $15.

It you do happen to use the O'd head make sure you use MC59 glow plugs.

[Polk]

Yea the one with the shaft is what I need, but havent got.

Its on its way now..:)

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by X-Tee Ha !
Part No. is A9347
http://search.ehobbies.com/

X Tee It's out of stock. :mad:
I searched for about an hour tonight
http://search.rcmodels.com/?rc=1&text=A9347&x=13&y=13

ALSO OUT OF STOCK! (prob. same or related database.)

I dug around on ebay too. Keep looking, see what you come up with, my LHS is neither "Losi" or "AE" - friendly but I'll drop by there and ask him, and we'll keep checking these sites - when it comes in I'll get on it. PM me your mailing address.

--Bill

[BTE214]

Is this the manifold you want x-tee? It's in stock at horizon.

Drake Rear Exhaust Manifold (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/services/advanceresultsDetail.asp?strProd=LOSA9345&strSearchType=ALL&strInCategory=ALL&strInManufacturer=ALL&tag=qsrch)

Or this looks like it should work:
Dynamite .12 Rear Manifold (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN6599)

[X-Tee Ha !]

Thanks Bill, YGM.

RCRacer, thanks for that but I think, (not sure) that the A9345 is a "Non Pull Start Side Exhaust Manifold" for the Drake XXX-NT, I think it is the A9347 that is the Rear Exhaust - Horizon do have the rear exhaust manifold listed (under LOSA9347) but it's out of stock :( :mad: :D

The Dynamite is a Rear Exhaust fitment, but very much like the profile of the manifold I have fitted now - it pushes out and the body won't fit, or would need most of the one side cutting out to clear the header and exhaust ... : (

Much appreciate the help though, thanks : )

[BTE214]

No problem X-tee, anytime.

After a day of driving here's the order list:
RPM Rear Bulkhead
RPM Ball Cups
Rear Turnbuckles
Graphite Tranny Brace
Receiver Pack

The graphite brace works with the gt right? I want to make sure before I get it. Or is there a better brace?

[dog8spam]

Does anyone know why the OS heads for the CV are $55 and the Duratrax ones are $22? Is there really that much of a difference?

[rocknbil]

The OEM vs. aftermarket thing. Same thing's true on real cars, the primary feature of aftermarket parts is same thing, lower price. Wife's OS has an O'Donnell that came with it, works out pretty well.

[Anemic_SluG]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Does anyone know why the OS heads for the CV are $55 and the Duratrax ones are $22? Is there really that much of a difference?

Go to www.nitrohouse.com and check the specials they have O'Donnel heads for 15$. It's the best head I have ever used on a CV. Just my 2 cents

[slbks5]

I'm looking to pick up a gt. Is this kit a decent one for bashing - http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=17268&clist=0,9323

I already have a complete JR XS3 Radio System.

What motor would you reccomend that holds a good tune? I was thinking about this one - http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=97766&clist=0,9835,11301 and get an odonnel head for it.

Also does the kit come with flywheel, clutch, pipe, manifold... etc?

Thanks

[dog8spam]

I would get an OS, they are indestructable and easy to tune. The kit does come with everything you listed, but the stock clutch is worthless.

Im almost afraid to get one of those heads, theyre too cheap.

[Ymmit07]

Originally posted by dog8spam

Im almost afraid to get one of those heads, theyre too cheap.

Works wonders for me. From what i have been told the O.S. .12 CV-X with a O'd head is suppose to be the equivalent to the CV-R.

I like the head it gives you some more high end RPM's.

[The King]

Try this one, It keeps my GT running and looking "COOL"
http://www.msjproducts.com/main.php3?primNavIndex=1&