Associated RC10GT Forum v8.0 [Archive] - Page 4

rocknbil

03-19-2004, 12:26 PM

Well . . . . yeah . . . . umm . . . .

The tub chassis has the same problem the 10T did: chassis flex. You need one of two things: either get a chassis brace or do like my wife did, take ALL THOSE PARTS (they all fit) and put them on the aluminum team chassis, which you can get on eBay new for between $25 (lucky) - $45 (likely :D .)

I ** think** the chassis brace is made by Trinity, it's a 1/4" thick rubber-coated hardened steel rod that bolts from the front engine mount, around the side of the carb, and back to the transmission mount. If you don't, on landing off a big jump the chassis flexes a little and puts pressure on the spur - BRRRP strips it out every time.

If you put forth the effort into tweaking it and setting it up right, I think you'll hand over the NMT (*cough*) to your friends for bashing and use the GT for winning races. :D

doesgo

03-19-2004, 01:47 PM

Here's a pic of the Trinity chassis brace. Well, at least it's the one I'm talking about, I'm not sure if the one rocknbil refers to is the same thing. Sure stiffened the chassis and made for a summer full of successful bad landings!

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/tubchassis.jpg

cbr74

03-19-2004, 01:49 PM

I'd lose that tub chassis first thing. Get the Team chassis upgrade kit.

I don't think Trinity makes that brace any more and isn't it just for NPS engines? Lunsford used to make a "stiffy" kit... I think it was Lunsford...
SS R/C makes a brace for the tub that looks nifty:
http://www.ssrcracing.com/team-associated.html
(if you decide to stick with the tub chassis)

RPM everything, Lunsford everything. Trinity, Pro-Maxx, or SS extended tranny brace.

That'll make your GT pretty darn durable.

doesgo

03-19-2004, 01:57 PM

Definitely keep an eye on eBay, I got an FT chassis on there for less than $20 and I got another from my bro-in-law for $21. Awesome deal! That FT chassis is really thick, too!

rocknbil

03-19-2004, 09:51 PM

doesgo - that's the Trinity engine mount and yeah, that helps but if you give it a good reef you'll see you can still flex the chassis a little, the focal point is where it joins the bulkhead, you can see it "V" ing right there. The wife's original GT had that mount and the chassis brace - it goes up and over the engine. Kinda in the way when you go to wrench on it, but solves the problem.

I don't know, a lot of old-timers like the tub, you won't have any trouble selling it on eBay if you get a team chassis, that's for sure . . .

dog8spam

03-19-2004, 10:16 PM

My shock tower is finally completed! I will be selling these on eBay and on the boards soon. I still have a few things to do, by the end of spring break I should have the stock in and shipping worked out and they will be ready to sell.

Advantages-
1 Lower CG- shocks are mounted a half an inch lower, without effecting steering geometry by removing the risers on the rear a-arms. There is also a fourth mounting hole for the body posts allowing the body to be lowered even more.

2 Strength- ties bulkhead ears to shock tower to prevent them from twisting off in a hard impact. They are also much thicker than the stock towers

3 Cheap! Only $7 plus shipping, as compared to Associateds inferior 15-20 dollar parts.

dog8spam

03-19-2004, 10:30 PM

Heres a close up of the bulkhead-

Budman_222

03-19-2004, 10:34 PM

What kind of material are they made of?

dog8spam

03-20-2004, 02:36 PM

Colored grade 10 garolite or G10. It was used by Bolink, and is a less asthetically pleasing (but much cheaper) substitute for carbon fiber. I looked hard for some, but the prices are through the roof.

Doing some research I did find that alot of carbon parts are just a laminate with a thin carbon fiber laminate on the outside, allowing the parts to be made cheaper, but there is almost no gain in strength.

I flaked off a piece of my old shock tower with a knife and as you can see, less than .02 of an inch down the weave stops. I tried to do the same with a piece of G10 to show that it is woven all the way through, but it wouldnt flake off and I cut myself pretty good trying, and decided to quit before I cut myself really good.

LoSick

03-20-2004, 07:43 PM

dog8spam, nice tower! does your engine run fine with that head?

Budman_222

03-21-2004, 12:00 AM

It's a os-cv head with the paint removed, isn't it? I took the paint off mine too. I have mine mounted 90% turned from what dog8's is. I run the cv-r and keep the cv as backup.

Bud

dog8spam

03-21-2004, 02:38 PM

Actually its just really old (I got it new in 98) and never had paint to start with. Ive replaced everything in it but the carburator and crankcase, and I just got a new O'Donnell head in the day after I took the pics. I read somewhere that they cool better turned like that because more air runs through it.

BTE214

03-21-2004, 08:25 PM

Where'd you get you O'd head from?

doesgo

03-21-2004, 09:17 PM

Last I checked NitroHouse had them for like $16. www.nitrohouse.com

Fantom 15 gt

03-22-2004, 06:56 AM

Woo Hoo my RB V15T for my gt should be here wed or thurs.:cool: also wallis check your pm

AErc10gt

03-22-2004, 08:22 PM

Hi i need a reply ASAP cuz i wanted to order it tonight......anyway i know the os.15cvx with recoil fits the gt but the crankshaft is long will this effect anything even though theres nothing in front of crankshaft on chassis? AErc10gt

The King

03-22-2004, 08:27 PM

I hear that OS is coming out with a .18 anybody hear anything about that?

Budman_222

03-22-2004, 08:38 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by AErc10gt
[B]Hi i need a reply ASAP cuz i wanted to order it tonight......anyway i know the os.15cvx with recoil fits the gt but the crankshaft is long will this effect anything even though theres nothing in front of crankshaft on chassis? ]

The GT uses a short crankshaft. You will need to shorten the shaft in order to use it on the gt. east to do.

Bud

slbks5

03-23-2004, 04:13 AM

What's the nominal operating temperture for the ae .15 engine?

Thanks in advance ..... slbks5

Kenny T

03-23-2004, 06:27 AM

Originally posted by The King
I hear that OS is coming out with a .18 anybody hear anything about that?

Aren't they out yet, they were on sale in Japan when I was there which was dec/jan. I think they are rated at 1.5hp, not too sure about it though.

Polk

03-27-2004, 12:26 AM

Hm yeah new forum...Right

I got my OS all running...Im getting blimmin angry at tuning it...I bogs down and stalls at idle..SO i lean it...Then it overheats...Ill get it.....one day

The King

03-27-2004, 08:16 AM

Aren't they out yet, they were on sale in Japan when I was there which was dec/jan. I think they are rated at 1.5hp, not too sure about it though.
I havent seen them yet, PS2 started out in Japan first and it took like a year before they were for sale here. :confused:

Kenny T

03-27-2004, 08:51 PM

You should be able to buy them from Asia, Hong Kong most likely. I wonder why it takes so long release stuff in other countries.

rocknbil

03-27-2004, 11:42 PM

...I bogs down and stalls at idle..SO i lean it...Then it overheats...Ill get it.....one day

Did you try leaving the HSN alone and leaning the LSN just a smidge?

Polk

03-27-2004, 11:44 PM

Nah I got it Rock. It was the plug I think, it still bogs down after a while (15 secs) at idle but im thinking that will cease after I get a bit more fuel through the engine.

Toyotatogo

03-29-2004, 01:52 AM

nice photos dog8spam I like that ramp.. *wonder how my truck would do on that ramp going at 65mph? may shot for the moon and never come back ... lol

.21 RC10GT SPEED RUN !!!

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162811

hooverimg

03-29-2004, 05:28 PM

does anyone have a link to an online Manual for the GT RTR...I lost mine. I went to RC10GThobby.com....however, I cannot download the manuals on that site. Or if you have them on your hardrive you can email it to me mgostick@hotmail.com.

Thanks

AErc10gt

03-29-2004, 08:27 PM

I heard from several people that this engine fits the RTR gt. Well how come the shaft seems slight thicker? My stock flywheel fits but, the clutchbell just doesn't quite fit, like I said the shaft seems slight thicker. Could someone tell me a site for a clutchbell and flywheel?, and if the cluchbell should fit and i have a bad engine or what? Thanks, AErc10gt

Toyotatogo

03-29-2004, 10:12 PM

lol I posted in the wrong fourm :eek:

AErc10gt

03-30-2004, 08:00 PM

BIGDADDYV

03-31-2004, 11:51 AM

Hello all.. I'm new to the whole nitro scene and i just traded for my first Nitro ... Its an RC10Gt.. Like you couldnt have guessed..... :p
I have a few questions for anyone who can possibly answer them.....
Whats the best way to start and stop the motor on this thing???? It's a pull start....
Its a stock truck and i want it to go like a bat outta hell-o so what can i do to it besides adding a new power plant??????
I have a stock .15 motor in it now if that helps ya out.....
What can I expect from this truck??????
Thanks to all in advanced.. TTYL BDV

rocknbil

03-31-2004, 03:08 PM

Starting:
1. Fill tank and while plugging the exhaust, give the pull start enough pulls to bring the fuel up the tube and JUST to the carburetor. In doing so, DO NOT pull the cord more than 3/4 the way out - this is the most common cause of pullstart breakage. Then give it one or two more pulls, this should be sufficient "priming." Many overdo this step.

2. Turn ALL YOUR ELECTRONICS ON. This is often forgotten and will result in a full-throttle start and blow your engine.

3. Pull off the air filter for a second, verify that a) all the electronics are operating as expected, and b) there is a 1mm opening in the carb throat, about the thickness of a credit card. Put the filter back on and make sure it's secure with a zip tie, you DO NOT want it falling off, it will kill your engine.

3. Enrich the mixture to 1/2 turn OPEN from factory spec just to get it running.

5. Ready? :D Put a CHARGED glow starter on the plug and give the cord a few rips. If it doesn't try to start right up, enrich it a tad more until it does.

6. Once started, lean it out as it warms up, take it out on the track, let it get to FULL operating temperature, then assess the smoke, performance, and temp to see if you are running too lean. It should give a good trail of smoke, and when you drop a dime-sized drop of water on the head, it should only boil off in 3-5 seconds, but if it's sizzles and pops like a frying egg, you are too hot - enrich your mixture a little.

There are three methods of stopping it, from "most recommended" to least.

1. Use a rag or your shoe to touch the flywheel where it protrudes through the bottom of the chassis to stall the engine.
2. Sometimes you need to stop it FAST (as in a runaway) and can't get to the flywheel or air inlet, plug the exhaust with a rag. Some claim this will flood it, but I've never had a problem.
3. If you can get to it quickly, pull off the air filter and plug the air inlet. This is the only time you can get away with using a CLEAN finger (no dirt in the engine!)

When you're done for the day, drain all the fuel from the tank, put the glow start on and crank it over to burn all the fuel out of the engine. Then remove the air filter and put about a teaspoon of after-run-oil in the AIR inlet, crank the engine over a few times. This will displace any moisture from the engine and protect your internals. If you don't have ARO, a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and Marvel Mystery Oil will do just great. That's what I use.

As for speed options without a new engine, verify there is no carb restrictor, it will be a plastic piece down inside the carb air inlet. It is there to give you more control in low-speed driving, without it it tends to be a little squirrely in corners. Open up the slipper clutch just a tad to re-gain low-speed control. Other than that expirament with gearing options. The .15 goes like a bat out of hell right out of the box anyway though. :D

If you don't have a manual you should be able to download one from the AE site, http://www.teamassociated.com , which will have the factory specs for the engine.

Hang around the Nitro Forum a bit to get the hang of tuning, you'll need to tune it every time you start as tuning changes from day to day with variations in ambient temp and humidity.

Welcome aboard and hey . . . HAVE FUN!!! :D

The King

03-31-2004, 03:39 PM

Yes welcome to the GT side, I can paint your GT body to match your camaro body :D

BTE214

03-31-2004, 03:59 PM

To get fuel to the engine I take the fuel line off the exhaust (pressure line) blow into it as I watch the fuel travel through the line to the carb then blow a small mount after to get the fuel into the carb.

To shut it off i hold the throttle closed and pinch the fuel line.
Welcome aboard and glad you chose a GT (you will be too). :D

Edit: I just noticed how the last posts are green smilied out.

slow one 2

03-31-2004, 06:29 PM

Just got my son's truck going today and the first tank of fuel we hit each other and one of his front turnbuckles is now shaped like a U :D great way to start the season

slow one 2

03-31-2004, 06:30 PM

pic # 2

BIGDADDYV

03-31-2004, 08:07 PM

Rocknbill, thanks so much for the tutorial... i printed it out to keep it in my tool box..... lol.......
King, now you know your gonna be painting that new shell for me... It wont match your last job but it will have flames none the less...LOL.
TY all for the warm invite to Nitro....... I am going to be asking alot of questions i have a feeling... :eek:
I am gettng the rest of my pull start on friday and will have it fired up htere shorlty after.... I will post pics of it when i get it running. maybe a jumping pic or something .. all i know is from what everyone says, Rc cars and trucks will never be the same for me.... I kinda like that feeling
Thanks again all and I will be in touch :cool: ....... BDV

FlashLCD33

04-01-2004, 07:30 PM

That GT looks nice! You should have sanded and polished the chassis a bit more though, a nice bright finish would really spice up the rest of the truck.

BIGDADDYV

04-02-2004, 06:49 PM

I cant get this damn thing to start. it keeps spiiting the pull cord out at me ...... I need help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Ty BDV :eek: :confused: : :mad: :

BIGDADDYV

04-02-2004, 09:15 PM

OK i rebuilt the pullstart 15 times (not an exageration either) and it still spits the damn cord out at me when i go to start it..... I have purchased a new cap for it and it still does it... I am thinking of eith a fully brand new starter or a bump box or drill start.... LMK what you guys think of that and if any one has any of these that are willing to trade i have tons of NIP parts for the GT...... PLMK and we will hope to hear from you all soon.. BDV
I also have a spare OS.12 and another chassis too..... The OS.12 is not new but its all there i thik ....LOL ... LMK BDV

rocknbil

04-03-2004, 01:59 AM

Elaborate on that one - what exactly do you mean spits the cord out?

Well first of all I'm going to say I am totally and completely biased. Once you bump start an engine, the pull start comes off and goes into the parts box. :D

But more importantly 15 pulls is a lot, is it firing at all? Is the cord not retracting back in, like maybe the spring in the pull start is broken or popped loose? (Remember what I said about over-extending it? That' what happens, maybe the previous owner did that?)

It should at least try to start. If you can't even get a burp out of it, do you have a spare or old glow plug? Put it on your glow start - is the coil burning bright? Got fuel up to the carb and a few more pulls, carb open like I said?

How about your needle settings, opened up 1/2, maybe a full turn from factory setting? If you tried that and it didn't work, try LEANING 1/2 turn from stock settings (not likely but try it.) I hear the stock .15 can be a bear to get going sometimes, but an engine is an engine . . . . stick with it, you'll get the hang.

rocknbil

04-03-2004, 12:46 PM

http://search.rcmodels.com/?rc=1&text=A9347&x=13&y=13

X-Tee-Ha I just checked again, STILL out of stock on this one.

BIGDADDYV

04-03-2004, 06:31 PM

I'm Going Bump And Not Looking Back !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

hpi_rs4_racer2

04-03-2004, 11:18 PM

Hey everyone-
I am looking to get back into all this! I was going to buy a HPI Savage as I have owned everything except a monster. So I did my research and I would end up spending about $500 just to get it going in STOCK condition. Which is fine because I know they are almost bullet-proof, but I like the GT's speed also :)
Anyways, I already have a JR XR2 Radio System, so I am now looking for a Factory Team Chassis and I want a BAD ASS motor. So my question to you is this, in your opinion, what are the 3 top/best .12 engines out there right now?
THANKS IN ADVANCE!
Kyle

hpi_rs4_racer2

04-03-2004, 11:35 PM

i think i want the picco .15 P1-R RE Turbo now but I cant find it anywhere. its on picco's site and thats all, i cant find it at any hobby shops! any ideas?
thanks,
kyle

X-Tee Ha !

04-04-2004, 10:54 AM

Is it a new engine ? The only place I can really get goods from is Tower Hobbies as I am UK, have you checked there ?

Rocknbil, thanks for the PM, I have only just seen it and not sure if you can/how to reply but thanks :D

Anyway, my GT is finished now, just rammed the body on over the exhaust :D it's not too bad actually. Here's a pic ! and thanks for the help :

X-Tee Ha !

04-04-2004, 10:56 AM

Another !

X-Tee Ha !

04-04-2004, 10:58 AM

T-Maxx challenge *lol* wonder who would win this ? :D

X-Tee Ha !

04-04-2004, 11:16 AM

Kyle, I just read your post about the fastest .12, I'm not very experienced in this but I have an old Tub GT with a real old OS 12CV, (with a grey head for some reason, not red) which was so easy to drive and just "go fast" everywhere with, even for a newbie like me ! but this latest one I have built has got a Novarossi RS12T5S2 (something like that) rear exhaust 5 port turbo button thing and I would have to say my old GT is FAR more competitive in my hands, this one (in the pics above) is just impossible to control, the throttle comes straight open (slide carb) with about 1/4" stick movement and the thing has gone off the track all ballooning tyres, leaping everywhere in about 1/2 second flat plus it's ear splittingly loud !

For some reason the slipper clutch nut does itself right up as well, this is from brand new with a brand new lock nut that is quite hard to move, but after 10 minutes of violent throttle blipping trying to stay in a straight line the thing just wheelies viciously onto it's back, not a gracefully, but like someone has kicked it, and I find the slipper nut is hard on the stop with the slipper spring fully compressed ?

Think I would go for a less violent .12, in fact I might take mine out for a new 12 CV or maybe a 15 CV for a little more low rpm torque, these are well cheap at the moment !

rocknbil

04-04-2004, 01:41 PM

. . . just rammed the body on over the exhaust . . .

Put a little bit of duct tape or clear packing tape on the inside of the body where the pipe touches it, it will keep it from wearing through the paint on the inside. Sweet job!

bad viking

04-04-2004, 06:25 PM

Here is your chance to show of your painting skills!!
GTs only, follow the link:

DA THREAD (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1386946)

AErc10gt

04-04-2004, 08:30 PM

X-TEE HA I LOVE THAT BODY!!!!!!!!! :D Where did you get it?? :D or did you make it??? AErc10gt

Polk

04-04-2004, 11:39 PM

Yea that body is awsome X-tee, well done.

Speaking of bodies, broke mine into 3 peices on sunday....Gargh Oh well new body time.

Also had my first real race, made it to the main but my wheel melted to the axle carrier. GARGH!It was rubbing cause I had to take the washer off becuase it was causing the wheel to come loose. And im also going to upgrade to the RPM carriers so i can use bigger rear wheel bearings, and ill go find some thinner larger washers...It was a brand new wheel to, so now i have to get the tire off somehow...oh how fun...:(

Stix

04-05-2004, 12:50 AM

hey all,
i know there's some gurus here that can help me, my GT is givin me fits and i'm about ready to throw the &^$&% thing in the trash... :mad: i can't get the thing to run at all. First, what are the factory settings for the LSN and HSN (i have a stock OS.15) Second, when i actually get it to start, it goes wide open and dies. :confused:

I'm thinkin that the motor may just be plain wore out, but can anyone help me? i took the head off and pulled the sleeve out, and there isn't any marks on the piston or the sleeve.

thanks
:cool: :cool: Stix

rocknbil

04-05-2004, 11:48 AM

. . . First, what are the factory settings for the LSN and HSN (i have a stock OS.15) Second, when i actually get it to start, it goes wide open and dies.....
I'm thinkin that the motor may just be plain wore out, but can anyone help me? i took the head off and pulled the sleeve out, and there isn't any marks on the piston or the sleeve.

First Stix, tell us what you KNOW. Do you know how to run nitro, got any experience with it, all that? I'll tell you why I ask . . . .

If you get it to start and it runs wide open, one of two things are ocurring: either your electronics are NOT ON, or the throttle is set incorrectly. With the electronics all turned on, and the TX at neutral position, if you remove the air filter and look into the carb, you should only see a 1mm gap in the carb opening, about the thickness of a credit card. While you're looking, actuate the throttle and see if it opens and closes correctly. If it's any more than 1mm, or the electronics are OFF when you try to start it, it could be left in a wide-open position and this is not healthy for your engine.

Secondly, if it goes wide open and dies, it could have died because it blew a rod, which is what happens if you let to go wide open unchecked. I'm guessing somehow that miraculously didn't happen because you would have noticed when you took out the piston and sleeve.

The way to tell if the motor is "worn out" (meaning the tolerance in the piston and sleeve has worn to the point of no compression) is to leave the glow plug in, then spin the engine over by the flywheel. As the piston reaches top dead center, you should begin to feel resistance, so much resistance that it's hard or impossible to continue turning it over with one finger. If it feels tight as you do this, the engine still has some life in it.

Go to the Associated site, http://www.teamassociated.com, download some manuals (specifically for the engine) and go through them, set the needles to factory specs and start from there.

Also is your glow starter charged? Test it on a spare glow plug: it should be glowing nice and bright before you try to start.

dog8spam

04-05-2004, 06:16 PM

Okay, the quote button dissapeared so Polk, about getting the tires off the rims just put it in the oven at 350 for 15 minutes. Itll practically fall off the rim and wont damage it at all.

About testing your glowstarter with a spare plug, dont be dumb like me and hold the plug with your fingers. If you do, you wont again.

Last thing Ive got to say that is one of the best looking GTs Ive seen XT

BIGDADDYV

04-05-2004, 07:03 PM

MINE RAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I drove it for about 3 min ....... YAAAAAAAAAAAAAa me ......
Now i cant wait to get that dang bump start so i can really tune it and make it dance...... Pulling that cord sucks ...lol
Hey rocknbill your right that thing really does scoot...... thanks for all your help guys I will now be a regular.. I'm nitor hooked
XT that is one sweet GT..... See ya BDV

rocknbil

04-05-2004, 09:00 PM

^ ^ LOL!! What happened after three minutes? Play around with your tuning a bit, maybe enrich it a touch (open it up, counter-clockwise,) maybe you can get more than three out of it. :D

Polk

04-05-2004, 09:23 PM

dog8spam

04-05-2004, 09:55 PM

test

dog8spam

04-05-2004, 10:01 PM

Why cant I post quotes??
I guess one of these will do it...
Is that 350 F or 350 C??? Is that 350 F or 350 C??? Is that 350 F or 350 C???
Its Ferighnheight of however you spell it.

BIGDADDYV

04-06-2004, 01:04 AM

Rocknbill, I will have to try to get it a bit richer....
But man that bad dad uses alot of fuel for the short time its running....
Its a screamer dont get me wrong but heck i would really like to try to get some run time out of it..... LOL...
I have a little problem maybe one of the Nitro gurus can help with.. Everytime i hit the brake the car stalls out ........ That is starting to bumb me out a bit....
Eihter way tomorrow i am taking starting it to a new level.... The Bump Starter!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and then the world of coal region jumps and hill climbs will never be the same again....... TTYL BDV

Polk

04-06-2004, 01:32 AM

Dog8Spam, it worked great, they literally fell off the rims...Thanks a lot!

rocknbil

04-06-2004, 03:11 AM

....uses alot of fuel for the short time its running....

Are you saying you went through a whole tank in three minutes?

No no no! Something is wrong if you did, a crack in the tank, split fuel line, or something. Even with a .15 you should get at **least** 10-15 minutes.

Stalling on brake: did you do the thing like I said with the linkage, does the carb stay open about 1mm when you hold the brake? If so you need to tweak a couple things, you can try leaning out the low speed setting just a touch, if that doesn't work, turn your idle speed screw in just a tad to hold the idle up.

Both of those are assuming you have a good high speed mixture, a good glow plug, and the engine clutch is functioning properly and not causing excess drag on the engine. If your glow plug is ailing it will contribute to the brake stallout.

M3TRJ

04-06-2004, 06:53 AM

Yo People, is the RC10GT Plus RTR good for racing without any hop-ups, etc? I'm thinking of getting one. Also how fast does it go?

X-Tee Ha !

04-06-2004, 10:49 AM

Thanks for the nice comments, it's a standard Proline F150 body but I didn't paint it (except tinting the windows :D ) I got it from a guy in the 'States via Ebay (I'm UK) I was well pleased with it :D

I got this one too, breathtaking work of art, but someone offered me a good price for it and I let it go like a fool :(

X-Tee Ha !

04-06-2004, 10:51 AM

Pictures don't do it justice, but here's another anyway :D

rocknbil

04-06-2004, 11:16 AM

Yo People, is the RC10GT Plus RTR good for racing without any hop-ups, etc? I'm thinking of getting one. Also how fast does it go?

Absolutely, people are claiming the radio's not that great, but you can take it out fill it up, break it in, and set it up for your track. Leave the carb restrictor in until you get the feel for low-speed driving, it will be very squirrely in corners without it.

wardy

04-06-2004, 05:35 PM

Hello - I have read through a lot of pages on here about the GT before I bought one and can't remeber reading about the problem I am having during the assembly.
I have the factory team kit and the problem is with the Spur gear not clearing the right A-arm.
I mounted the spur with the smooth side facing out and the arm carrier won't even line up with the holes in the chassis as the carrier hits the spur.
I reversed the spur so that the smooth side faces in and the arm carrier now fits but the clearance between it and the spur is very tight.
If anybody has any ideas on what might be wrong I would appreciate any info.
Cheers
pete

dog8spam

04-06-2004, 06:17 PM

I mounted the spur with the smooth side facing out and the arm carrier won't even line up with the holes in the chassis as the carrier hits the spur.
I reversed the spur so that the smooth side faces in and the arm carrier now fits but the clearance between it and the spur is very tight.
If anybody has any ideas on what might be wrong I would appreciate any info.
Cheers
pete

It sounds like you go your sides mixed up or your in and out mixed up because if it doesnt fit with the smooth side out, it REALLY shouldnt fit with the smooth side in.

Ive also had bad luck with RTR radios. One out of three still work.

As far as dieing with the breaks on, here are some of the possible problems:
Clutch shoes
clutch bearings
air leak (anywhere)
bad compression
bad tank
bad fuel line routing/clogged filter
linkage not adjusted
tuning

Ive had lots of problems with my engine, since my GT is going through a mid-life crisis (actually more like end-life). If its not tuning then I would put my money on the clutch.

rocknbil

04-06-2004, 08:56 PM

... I have the factory team kit and the problem is with the Spur gear not clearing the right A-arm. ....

Welcome aboad wardy!
The spur is indeed a tight fit, there's not much room in there, but the stock one should go.

First check the R and L like dog8 says, there should be a R and L clearly stamped on them, correct? Secondly, one of them has a little slot cut out of it to make room for the spur, also correct? You have the slot lined up with the spur and it's still not going?

Have you possibly got it upside-down? Can you take a close-up pic of it and post it up here? Someone here can help, for sure.

dog8spam

04-06-2004, 09:56 PM

Welcome aboad wardy!
The spur is indeed a tight fit, there's not much room in there, but the stock one should go.

First check the R and L like dog8 says, there should be a R and L clearly stamped on them, correct? Secondly, one of them has a little slot cut out of it to make room for the spur, also correct? You have the slot lined up with the spur and it's still not going?

Have you possibly got it upside-down? Can you take a close-up pic of it and post it up here? Someone here can help, for sure.
Just testing to see what some of these buttons do...

dog8spam

04-06-2004, 09:58 PM

IT WORKED! Has that quote button always been there?

Back to the cars another thing to check would be the slipper. You might have something in the wrong order causing it to stick out.

wardy

04-07-2004, 02:43 AM

Thanks for the answers to my problem with the spur gear fit.
I have checked that the arm carriers are the right way round and I disassembled and reassembled the slipper assembly and everything was right.
I also checked that the brake hub and slipper hub were both aligned with the cross pin correctly.
On the spur in my kit(kimbrough 62t) one side has a lot of slightly raised holes and the other side is smooth. The spur is recessed on the smooth side slightly and when you fit this side facing in you just about get enough clearance between the a-arm and the spur. The spur has a slight wobble which doesn't seem to help the problem.
I am going to be racing this on largish grass tracks so maybe I could reduce the spur size as the layouts are generally flowing and there aren't really any jumps that you need hard acceleration to clear.
Cheers for the help so far.

Railman

04-07-2004, 10:30 AM

Wardy,
I had a similar problem with mt FTGT. The odd thing was my son's kit went right together without any problems. I also converted my old tub to the new flat chassis for another son, & it cleared well also without any problem.

What I ended up doing was to slightly shim the tranny topshaft inward (toward driver side),with a thin 3/16" id cvd shim, inside the tranny. I also increased the depth of the drift pin slot in the slipper hub (the one against the tranny). To increase the slot depth, I carefully used a small round file, & checked my work often to keep the slot even. I checked the slot as I went by setting the hub on a flat surface, & layed a piece of piano/music wire across the slot, so as to keep it paralell to the table. Now my slipper hub almost touches the tranny case, but now I have some spur clearance.

I did this to mine when the FTGT 1st came out, & I never have figured out for shure why some spurs hit, & some don't. It could be just accumulative tolerrance drift of all the parts, or maybe some just had thicker slipper pads. It's probably a variance in the slipper hubs. I have seen a lot of GTs with spurs that rub occaisionally, but it doesnt really affect performance much.
Joe

rocknbil

04-07-2004, 11:20 AM

^^ And where has Railman been hiding? Geeze it's been forever, who posted bail? :D

BIGDADDYV

04-07-2004, 11:43 AM

I think he was just letting you field some of the questions so you can have practice incase his appeal doesnt go through ...... LOL
Dont worry Rocknbil your doing an excellent job, youve helped me out tons ..... Heck im even considering another nitro to add to the growing rc family ..... TOODLES BDV

rocknbil

04-07-2004, 12:05 PM

No, just wondering where he's been, Railman used to be a regular around here and has been gone a while, in fact he schooled me on the total kewlness of drag brake. :D

wardy

04-07-2004, 04:05 PM

Thanks for the advice Railman. I took the transmission apart to make sure I had the spacers correctly placed on the topshaft - I thought i might have got the spacers wrong but they were correct. I have checked the slipper assembly again and it is correct. i also slightly filed the brake hub/disc holder so that the pin sits flush with the hub and the slipper plate.
I now have clearance with the spur mounted the opposite way to what the instructions say. If I mount the spur smooth side out it fouls the a-arm by atleast a 1/8". If the clutch bell will line up with the spur as I have it I think it will work fine.
I am going to finish the assembly tommorrow and see how the alignment looks with the engine in.

slow one 2

04-07-2004, 05:21 PM

hey all;
when you bump start your engines what way does the flywheel turn(clockwise or counter clockwise) my sons os 12 will only turn over one way but my mt12 starts whatever way I have the starter going. seems like the os is starting very hard and i'm all confused. :confused:

rocknbil

04-07-2004, 06:19 PM

BIGDADDYV

04-07-2004, 07:58 PM

I RAN A FULL TANK THROUGH MY GT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
yeah baby im in the game ......... :D
ty all for your advise it is comming in very handy.... Rocknbil I keep your tutorial in my pocket when i leave the house to run this thing.... Great job man..... I am hooked on this lil thing ....... I have a fever for the flavor of a Nitro!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry guys i am just really happy it is running.. the bump start is the greatest invention... Lots less yankin .... Man for a min there i thought i was 13 again... Must buy more nitro!!!!!!!!!!!! Must have bigger and faster....
Oh BTW this thing is a real rocket ... I am just having too much fun with this..
Now to get some rear body mounts and shell for this Bad Dad and im all set.....
Oh one question guys .. now instead of stalling when i applied the brake it has no brake at all..... Any insight???? eihter way its running like it stole somthin so i am happy.. Toodles Big Daddy V

slow one 2

04-07-2004, 10:40 PM

Depends on which side of the truck you're standing on. :D The top of the starter box wheel spins toward the FRONT of the truck, which spins the TOP of the flywheel toward the back, so if you're on the side the flywheel is on, that would be counter-clockwise.

Does the OS have a pull-start on it? The one-way bearing would prevent it from spinning the other way.

no pull-start on either engine. but the os will only turn one way. Its got too much compression to turn the other way with the starter box. Its too dark to go out and play tonight but I'll let you know tomorrow which way it starts for me.
Rocknbil thanks for the help,,, supposed to be sunny and in the 40's tomorrow so I want to run them. :D :D

Railman

04-07-2004, 10:58 PM

Wardy,
It sounds like you got it fixed! Now you just need to double check the thickness of the shim ( or shims) behind the flywheel. Shim it so that the spur centers on the clutch bell teeth, & you'll be good to go.

Bill,
I've been lurking around now & then, but haven't been posting much. My youngest son just finished up with his freshman HS basketball season, & that pretty much killed my spare time. I thouroughly enjoyed watching his team. Besides, we no longer have an indoor track, & I try not to post much when I'm not racing. Our local outdoor track (Dirt Country) is about to start up again, so I'll probably hang out on here again once it starts. Anyway, you pretty much keep things under control on here! :D

Dog8spam,
I didn't realize untill yesterday that you live in Lexington. I raced indoor at Coyote a few times, & even bought my Matt Francis from them. Have you ever made it up to Dirt Country?
Joe

rocknbil

04-08-2004, 12:04 AM

^ ^ Ahh it's all fun, good to see you back. Stay in touch, I have a killer new project coming up (RC related, shhhhh. . . :D )

I.... Man for a min there i thought i was 13 again... .. now instead of stalling when i applied the brake it has no brake at all.....

Heh. That's what it's all about. :D

The brake thing is probably a linkage adjustment, or did you bump the throttle trim on your transmitter? If it's the transmitter, it's best to set everything up mechanically with the throttle trim set dead in the center.

Its got too much compression to turn the other way with the starter box. ... supposed to be sunny and in the 40's tomorrow so I want to run them.

Too much compression lol . . . wish I had that complaint. :D Three things: make absa - posi-tively 100% sure the starter box wheel is not hitting the chassis, it will cost you that nth bit of torque that could be stalling the box. You can tell if you have black skidmarks on the bottom of the chassis. Are you using the starter box pegs? Just a little bit off and it will give you grief. Second, make sure you have a good fresh charge. Just a little bit down and a S/B will stall on a good engine. Last, if all that's good, some people recommend loosening the glow plug a little just to get it going, then torque it down once it's running, personally I wouldn't do it . . . but seems to work for many people.

40º! Chilly, it's in the 70's out here . . . spring has sprung.

Polk

04-08-2004, 05:40 AM

Can someone link me to the reverse fill fuel tank for the GT? I cant find it anywhere on tower.

Thanks :)

dog8spam

04-08-2004, 07:22 AM

Ive gone there a couple times and will be going there alot more this year when I get my license (about two months). I live about an hour away so my parents dont like driving out that far.

slow one 2

04-09-2004, 01:21 PM

rocknbil
its starting the right way. wont spin going the wrong way. just sometimes it starts and runs backwards. it idles in reverse but as soon as you give it throttle it moves 2 inches backwards and stalls. its not doing that very often any more so i think i'm all set. it actually made it into the 50s yesterday so it was great outside till we crashed and broke our cars. thanks for the info :cool:

rocknbil

04-09-2004, 01:31 PM

.. just sometimes it starts and runs backwards.. Although I've never had that happen, if the S/B wheel is turning the right way, I hear that's a sign of a flooded engine on start? What apparently happens is it hydrolocks but combusts anyway, forcing it to bounce back in the wrong direction and continue running that way. I also understand it puts undue stress on the rod and crank, but like I said this is what I have read and not experienced. I'm VERY conservative when it comes to "priming," I just get the fuel up to the carb, then on goes the glow plug and on the box it goes.

Budman_222

04-09-2004, 05:36 PM

Can someone link me to the reverse fill fuel tank for the GT? I cant find it anywhere on tower.

Thanks :)

I'm not sure how to send the link, but if you go to tower hobbies search and type in LXCXT8 the tank will pop up. 12.99 + shipping. parts express

Bud

dog8spam

04-12-2004, 04:27 PM

My shock tower is ready to go now, I have a web site to hold me over untill I figure out how to get the good one I made to work.

dog8spam

04-12-2004, 04:32 PM

Armored Cars (www.geocities.com/dog8spam/home)

I want to send a few free ones out so I can tell what other people think of it, see if there are any problems I didnt catch or forsee. If your interested e-mail me at dog8spam@yahoo.com

BIGDADDYV

04-12-2004, 07:16 PM

***********************UPDATE********************* ********

Ok guys here are the results...... 3 Tanks of fuel, 1 crash and ALOT of Air Time later its still running strong :cool: ..... I got my Bump Starter and havent looked back.. I put a couple of upgrades on it and she is running like a raped ape....... I couldnt be happier...... :D
All is good in the wonderful world of which that is rc once again...... I trust everyone had a safe and happy holiday... Hope to hear from you all soon ...... Take care and drive it like you stole it!!!!!!!!!! Big Daddy V

LearjetMinako

04-12-2004, 08:53 PM

Hi all, I thought to drop by and say hi. Soon I'll be joining the group and be driving a RC10GT around the track hopefully soon. It will be one of my pride and enjoys to drive, like the TC3 and T3 that I also race. I'll be picking up the Factory Team edition probably by 1 week or at the end of the month. I'm planning to install an OS .12CV-RX(s) with JR radio equipment. ;)

Kenny T

04-13-2004, 07:09 AM

Are you going to keep the NMT?

rocknbil

04-13-2004, 11:35 AM

. . . I'm planning to install an OS .12CV-RX(s) . . .

Hee hee. . . you'll love it. One Q though, have you bought the engine yet? If you haven't, trace BIGDADDYV's posts for a page or two back as a testimonial, if you want to start off right go with a NON-pull start and a starter box.

Now all you P/S people don't get me wrong - it's just that pull starts are simply one more thing to break and go wrong on your stuff, and if you don't mind carrying ONE MORE THING around, like BIGDADDYV says once you use bump start there's no turning back. :D

nelson8708

04-13-2004, 12:03 PM

I will also be going this tread soon. I bought a FT RC10GT with a O.S. CV-R. I am looking to buy a starter box soon. If anyone want to sell a starter box they dont use anymore please email me.

LearjetMinako

04-13-2004, 05:25 PM

I'll still keep my NMT for sand running and for bashing around the consturtion sites.

I've been toying around the idea of a pull start engine. I want to make this truck as close to race legal and easy to operate as possible. You are right, a pull start is just one more thing to brake. Plus there's that 3rd bearing (bushing actually) that supports the starting shaft. That alone will rob power and over time, through wear & tear, will cause vaccum leaks. I actually like the engines with out pullstarts but I just don't like starter boxes. But than again, I could get use to it. The price of one thou, is what gets me. If I do go away from pullstarts, I certainly won't miss the 'pullstart arm syndrom'.

I'll be putting together the kit slowly with any added hop-ups that I might want to add. It will probably take me some time (3 months or more) to finally have all the equipment I want on it.

Installment Equipment: (AE RC10GT FT)
1. JR XS3 radio system
2. OS .12CV-R(s) (might be a given for a graduation gift)
3. JR Z650M servo
4. Trinty 1150mah NIMH (standard pack, 3cells-bottom, 2cells-top)
5. Dynamite Micro Fail-Safe
6. Vemon's on-board temp gauge
7. Vemon's Speedometer

As for fuel to run, any suggestion would be welcomed, just not Blue Thunder (Turns everything blue inside the engine and also gums up the carb & fuel line and filter). I'm thinking on the lines of Trinty's new fuel. I would like something w/ a higher percentage of oil, like 16% & up.

LoSick

04-14-2004, 05:35 PM

backyard basher´s from sidewinder is a nice fuel, been using it for a year and no problems at all. had an os 15cvr, runs fine but I wanted more power, almost went for the sirio 15 ´til sirio released the new 3 port evo. it´s a beast! I use it with a 20t bell and still has huge torque yet its top end is furious!

BIGDADDYV

04-14-2004, 07:59 PM

OK heres the question to the guru's of hte mighty GT ......
I was wondering if they make anything to keep the batts from falling off the back of the GT when you get major sick air?????
Like a receiver batt holder thats encased or something.... LMK and thanks guys .. I will post NON Body pics sometime this weekend so ya all can see my first Nitro Ride :cool:

doesgo

04-14-2004, 08:14 PM

People sometimes mount the battery pack on the steering servo or in the receiver area, but that exposes the rear shock tower to rear impacts (or rearend-down landings).

My friend put a small block of wood in place of the battery pack and that's working well for him (zip-tied to the stock battery holder).

I mounted an RPM Rustler front bumper to the back of my GT and got a 2100mAh 5-cell AA flat-pack and mounted it vertically against the shock tower (cushioned by foam rubber). The RPM bumper should protect it quite nicely, I think.

dog8spam

04-14-2004, 08:33 PM

I dont have the camera so I cant show you the one I have now, but here is a pic of an older one. On the new one the sides go back and bend so that they are flat against the shock tower. It actually has six screws that hold it in, two on the bottom and four up top that also strengthen the bulkhead.

rocknbil

04-14-2004, 09:21 PM

BIGDADDYV are you using two large zip ties?

I hear this a lot and can't for the life of me figure out how you guys keep losing them, I've busted up the stock boxes pretty badly and they still stay in when you lock the zip ties down real well. They're just disintegrated when I go to take out the pack. LOL

I wrap the whole pack in horsewrap, same stuff I use on my shocks, before I zip it in, maybe that's the ticket, donno.

doesgo

04-14-2004, 09:43 PM

Oh, he's just having trouble holding the pack in place? Yeah, good zip-ties should take care of that. I was thinking he was destroying his packs and his holder, which can certainly happen!

offroadcrazy01

04-15-2004, 02:58 AM

Oh, he's just having trouble holding the pack in place? Yeah, good zip-ties should take care of that. I was thinking he was destroying his packs and his holder, which can certainly happen!
TRY THIS take the pad out put :cool: shoe gue there then put the battery in and zip it the shoe-gue will hold it

Wallis Racing

04-15-2004, 08:51 AM

hey all,
about the batt packs, this is what ive done:
http://wallisracing.itgo.com/images/17th%20January%2004/GT%20naked%20rear%20right.JPG

i was both destroying packs on landings, as well as loosing packs. they would slide out even with 2 good zipties holding them.

The C shaped rear bumper joins the same as the stock one, but at the top, it touches on the screws that hold the tower to the bulkhead(which i have used HPI button heads for, instead of the stock ones, i did this because the stock allen screws dig into batt packs) and because of this, the rear bumper has no movement and i havent hurt a single pack yet, and no more runaways :D

what i have done is good for protecting the packs, if thats ur problem, but if you are just loosing them, i have made my 5cell packs in a 4-1 configuration. 4 cells on the bottom, then 1 cell on top, dead center. then when you ziptie the pack in, 1 zip-tie goes on each side of that 5th cell, and it stops the pack from sliding around.

hope this helps.

anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)

Mr. Blue

04-17-2004, 06:18 PM

I wanna know if I can run my RC10GT in the sand?

Mr. Blue

04-17-2004, 08:01 PM

Can I run my RC10GT on the beach???

Polk

04-17-2004, 08:08 PM

Yes, but its not really reccomend becuase the sand gets EVERYWHERE. Unless your keen on stripping down everything (including diffs) after every run its not really that great of an idea.

AErc10gt

04-17-2004, 10:23 PM

There's two beaches where I live and they say if you take an RC car out in the sand it's considered a beach violation. :( :mad:

Kenny T

04-17-2004, 11:57 PM

Sand is all we have here so I'm forced to run in it. I hate cleaning my trucks after running.

Anemic_SluG

04-18-2004, 05:04 AM

Just a FYI here is teh site that has a welded alum battery box for the gt. www.bdparts.net It is the same box Billy Easton used last year.

LearjetMinako

04-18-2004, 11:33 AM

Got my AE RC10 GT FT on the way. It should arrive around friday. But now I'm flat broke. I'll be getting the engine next w/ a Venom's temp gauge (in about another month) and then the starter box (the 2nd month). What would be a good starter box to get? I was thinking about the AE starter box for the GT/NTC3.

fuzzy2133

04-18-2004, 01:29 PM

I like the starter box's with the plug in for a glow ingnitor that runs off the box's battery. just charge up the 12volt battery, RX pack and you can be on your way.

Mr. Blue

04-21-2004, 08:31 PM

I what to know if i can get a 350z body for my rc10gt?

LearjetMinako

04-21-2004, 08:50 PM

Tomorrow, probably, my RC10GT FT should arrive at my front door. Oh, yaaaa. And I also live to see another Oklahoma day, got to see funnel clouds and tornados form over my house. :D

fuzzy2133

04-21-2004, 11:09 PM

I what to know if i can get a 350z body for my rc10gt?

you can do it. just a matter of being creative in cutting and mounting it to the GT.

The King

04-22-2004, 04:00 AM

I got the H2 Hummer to work on my GT and that is not made to fit. Good luck

bad viking

04-22-2004, 04:14 PM

Hi.
Im gonna buy some new tiers and rims 4 my GT.
I live in Norway so its all metric here, so I am getting a little confused.
It is "2.2" rims and tiers that wil fit my car? here is my shopping list;

Pro-Line Pro-97 Step Pin T 2.2" Rear (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDX33&P=ML)

Pro-Line Pro-92 Fuzzie T 2.2" Rear (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDX31&P=7)
Pro-Line Rear Velocity Dish 2.2" T2/3 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDW24&P=7)

WILL THIS WORK????
Can any of you guys help me out?

The Bad Viking

LearjetMinako

04-23-2004, 07:45 PM

I've finished building my first Factory Team R/C. It took me about 11 hours to complete building of the model but not the installation of the radio and engine equipment.

Went from this:

LearjetMinako

04-23-2004, 07:46 PM

To this: :D :D :D :p

rocknbil

04-23-2004, 09:49 PM

^ ^ Hee hee, they look so pretty when they are new. :D Even got the washers under the tank to reduce vibration, is that in the manual or did you pick it up from around here?

Hey do yourself a favor NOW - make your pressure line a full 8" long, coil it in a loop, similar to what I have here (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html), it will reduce bubbling in the tank and give you a little less tuning troubles.

Hi.
Im gonna buy some new tiers and rims 4 my GT.....The Bad Viking

Those should all work:
INCLUDES: Two Pro-97 Step Pin 2.2" Rear Truck Tires
Two Foam Inserts
Fuzzy pin pattern (this tire would be good for dirt tracks)
Fits standard 2.2 inch rear truck wheels

The only thing I'm confused about is the rims, why they say T2/T3, but not GT - they **should** be the same rims.

Anyone else care to verify/dispel?

LearjetMinako

04-23-2004, 10:10 PM

The rubber O-ring under the fuel tank was included in the manual. I did catch a few mistakes in the manual but nothing too confusing. As for the fuel tank pressure line, too late, I used up all my lines that came w/ it. Just might have to dig deep in my flight box to find at least a foot or so of the stuff. My dog is already hating me for bring in another R/C in the house. I don't know whats her problem. She'll just sit there and growl at it. She always does this every time I build a new R/C or rebuild one. She'll get used to it after a while.

Can't wait to get the rest of the stuff to finish off the kit. Still have too CA glue the tires and paint the body. First major thing to buy next is a JR XS3 radio system. I'll wait a little bit longer for the engine. Gotta love the GT, its a work of art. :p

iwannarc

04-24-2004, 01:32 AM

So, today I decided "What the heck, let's break out the old GT." Well, it has probably been close to a year since I last ran it; so, I figured it would take a while to start. I change the batteries, gassed her up, blew into the fuel pressure line, and put the glow ingnitor on. Five pulls later, she came to life, and running just as strong as before. With just a little wisp of white smoke trailing, I knew she was still tuned correctly. The really great thing? Not 2 minutes after cranking her up, I had about 10 people in my driveway watching me run the mess out of it. I did a few high speed passes, and tossed it around my front yard some until the tank ran dry. Filled her back up; she started first pull. Drove it around to my back yard, to the five foot wide 1/2 mile long mildly packed sand strip that used to be a ditch. I forgot how powerful the little bugger was, as I watched it throw three foot roosts and step the back end out.

Overall, I forgot how much fun these things were. I definately need to get to the track and try that out. I bet that's a blast. Anyways, I just thought that I'd share my first R/C experience in almost a year, and I'd thought that I'd let you know that my GT is back from it's rest....

fuzzy2133

04-24-2004, 11:36 AM

that is the great thing about 2 stroke engines, if you store them right they will pretty much start back up with little trouble. at the most just clean out the carb and it will run.

bad viking

04-24-2004, 12:44 PM

[QUOTE=rocknbil

The only thing I'm confused about is the rims, why they say T2/T3, but not GT - they **should** be the same rims.

Anyone else care to verify/dispel?[/QUOTE]

Hmm, dont this this quote thing works 4 me, anyways;
As I have understood, it should work, but Im still in doubt.
So could anyone verify/dispel this?
Or prehaps throw me a link from tower hobbies, showing some rims that will fit the gt? As long as it fit, I dont care who makes them!

Bad viking

LearjetMinako

04-24-2004, 01:14 PM

I have a question about which engine I should install. O.S. makes a engine w/ a pilot shaft, can I use that type of crank or should I stick with a short crank version. In the manual, it looks like I can but not too sure about it on an O.S.. And also another thing. Can a sliding carb be used on the GT. It looks like it can, just by twisting the carb 45-90* a different way. :confused:

One last thing. I'm a bit concerned about the clutch design. There isn't any return springs for the clutch pads. Wouldn't that mean the clutch will be contunious engaged, when the engine is running, and risk the possabilty of burning the clutch pads. :confused:

dog8spam

04-24-2004, 02:03 PM

When idling the force pressing the pads is so little it doesnt do anything. Sometimes if the idle is too high or the pads are too worn the clutch bell will over heat, but not often. It turns a bright blue/purple color, if you arent sure if the clutch is the blue color its not, you will know for sure when you see it.

As far as slide carbs go I have heard they give almost no gain in performace for small block engines. They're supposed to smooth the power band, which is the same as the infamous boost bottle.

For wheels I think it does say T2 on them, youll just want to be sure you get the shaft size right. Theyre still the same since the trucks are identical except for the rear end.

Pro3/nmt105

04-24-2004, 10:58 PM

Can a losi clutch or another clutch other than the stock and MIP fit on the gt? IMO the stock clutch sucks, and the MIP clutch sucks too, it wears out fast and doesnt give you a punchy feeling no matter how the low-end is tuned. I'm running a tr and I cant clear the big jump a my track. Some guy with a 12cv in his xxx-nt was easily able to clear it. My tr isnt up to its full potential because it's only had a 5 or 6 tanks since break-in but anything should be able to do it if a 12cv can. I tried someone elses xxx-nt with a .12cv-r in it and it felt much punchier and I dont think it was because the engine was tuned diffrent, and his engine had about the same amount of fuel through it.

Pro3/nmt105

04-24-2004, 11:06 PM

[QUOTE=rocknbil]
Hey do yourself a favor NOW - make your pressure line a full 8" long, coil it in a loop, similar to what I have here (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html), it will reduce bubbling in the tank and give you a little less tuning troubles.
[QUOTE]
I dont think that's really nessecary with the new tank. It definitly was with the older style tanks that have the pressure line blowing right into the fuel, but the new tanks have the pressure line on the lid so it wont cause much bubbling. I have the new tank in my ntc3 with a short pressure line and there is barely any bubbling I do notice bubbling in the old style tank in my gt though, Its not very bad though because I'm running a long pressure line like you said.

offroadcrazy01

04-25-2004, 12:15 AM

mip clutch try the number 3# set-up for the clutch the reverse set-up works well .The car will have alot of punch How are your shocks set-up take a look at this http://users.pandora.be/elvo/bug/print.htm My shocks are set up like this http://www.teamassociated.com/racerhub/setup/racersetups/GT_easton_2002_miami.pdf I have that same engine and it's a dream my truck jumps like a dream also try the b and c hole in the front and in the rear try the b and e hole also run silver springs in the rear it will jump a little better.but you will have to slow down the steering with your radio,also do you have a temp gun

rocknbil

04-25-2004, 01:41 AM

Pro3, a longer pressure line reduces the possibility of bubbling and smooths out the pulsing from the exhaust header, and regardless of the location of the nipple on the tank, it makes it easier to keep in tune, especially at idle. Most everyone runs 8" or so.

dog8spam

04-25-2004, 12:56 PM

The stock clutch is worthless, I would ethier get an MIP or 4-shoe.

Polk

04-25-2004, 04:24 PM

Go the MIP. Ive had mine for a year. Still good.

What do you guys use for spacers on the rear wheels between the bearing and the wheels? I just got my RPM bearings and carriers and I need something to put between them.

Thanks

rocknbil

04-26-2004, 11:25 AM

You adjust the endplay of the way the axles fit in the carriers using these shims (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2976&P=0), slide the axle through the carrier, then put on one of these cone washers (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2568&P=0) on the outside of the shaft with the high point facing the bearing before putting in the axle pin.

offroadcrazy01

04-26-2004, 12:02 PM

doesgo

04-26-2004, 03:33 PM

rocknbil

04-26-2004, 09:30 PM

Heh. While I'm sure there is an actual measurement out there, I cannot say. Here is what I do.

Put it all together with a couple shims, then see if the cone washer and pin fits on there easily. I then keep taking off shims until it fits, so "too tight" minus one. :D I like it with as little slop as possible.

offroadcrazy: aren't those "spacers" the exact same part as the shims, the same part AE has been using since the stealth first came out?

KanaiDude

04-28-2004, 04:05 PM

Hi Hi, question here, what is up with the clutch on the rc10gt, does the stock kit come with no springs? do you all ever have a problem with a slight clutch engagement because there are no springs, the shoes just sort of flop around??? I have a mip clutch also and it seems to have a slight engagment problem also, and i think with the mip the top of it barely rubs against the clutch bell a little, i will have to pull my fly wheel off and see if there is a spacer or something behind it, was just curious if you guys had any of these problems, and if you have a clutch fix of some sort, i am running a sirio and robinson clutch spur combo, thanks guys...

KanaiDude

04-28-2004, 04:13 PM

Sorry been reading and answered most of my questions any more input would be appreciated, god i love these boards answers on demand, it really has lifted my whole rc experience a notch or two getting fast answers to every question, i haven't been here much mostly the kyosho threads but weeee thanks...

rocknbil

04-28-2004, 05:16 PM

I personally hever had a problem with the stock clutch. Yes, the shoes just sit on the pins and the centrifugal force is what engages them. Everyone said I needed an MIP . . so I put one in . . . don't know what the big whoop is, I had the stock ones all figured out.

On the MIP, don't know if you pressed in or cut off the pins on the flywheel - you're supposed to per the MIP instructions.

KanaiDude

04-28-2004, 05:44 PM

I'm gonna try the stock one i have actually only used the mip one thus far, gonna race it for 2nd time this weekend, the stock one probably be better for me, I went through a million alluminum clutch shoes turbo clutches bla bla for my 1/8 scale and ended up back with a standard teflon 3 shoe lol, go figure... thanks again ill probably have another question this friday during rebuild maybe i can get a pic up its pretty pimped out, hey where do you guys stick your amb transponders? and do you use the reciever box, i have an xxtra reciever and its pretty tight i even cramed my transponder in there with like a 1/8 gap where the box wasn't shut lol, gotta remedy that before racing again.

Nitro crazy 89

04-28-2004, 07:52 PM

I had the same problem with my RC10GT, all i had to do was put in an after market clutch, and it purred when it was ideling.

offroadcrazy01

04-29-2004, 01:12 AM

Any body know the transmission drive-train ratio for a gt trying to learn how to use the RC Calculator! on rc car action

LearjetMinako

04-29-2004, 07:58 AM

I beleive the diff is a 2.6:1 ratio and the spur/pinion is a 66/14, so final drive ratio would be, 2.6*(66/14)=12.25:1 (engines revs to 1 wheel turn). I believe that this right unless you have a different spur & pinion or I forgot what size spur & pinion that was included. :D But the forumla is all the same, (Diff ratio x (Spur / Pinion) = Final Drive Ratio) :cool:

The Drive-Train ratio is the diff raito, so it would be 2.6 : 1

rocknbil

04-29-2004, 12:17 PM

Correct, The AE GT Stealth (http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/KitSpecs,GT/features_gtteam.htm) has a 2.60:1 final drive ratio, your final to-the-wheel ratio should be somewhere between 12 (low-speed punch, less high speed) and 9 (high speed at loss of low speed punch.)

Flame away if I've got it bass ackwards. :D

fuzzy2133

04-29-2004, 07:40 PM

wow I just like to keep things simple and not think any further than the primary ratio so long as the tires are still the same outside diameter.

offroadcrazy01

04-30-2004, 12:38 AM

thanks guys ;)

dirtbike

05-01-2004, 05:26 PM

Is associated gona be coming out with a new rc10gt. cause i want to get one, or if i have to wait till the new one comes out.

LearjetMinako

05-01-2004, 08:59 PM

Well, a instering turn of events happened to me. Bass fishing is one the lazy hobbies that I have. And my dad decide to do a father & son tourament with a tourament club on McGee Creek. 65 people entered, I placed 3rd overall with a total weight of 8.31lb. But the real kicker is the gaint monster that I pulled out of the deep blue of the lake (38ft down). A gaint monster largemouth bass at 22 1/8in (just within the slot limit) and weighed 5.91lb. For me and my dad, it was unbelievable. At weigh-in, theres two class, total weight and big bass. I placed first with the biggest bass and is the only one over the slot limit at 22in. For that bass only, I got a $265 check. For being in 3rd place at 8.31lb, I also got a $81 check. So thats $346 dollors I made in this tournament. It was worth it through the rain, high winds, and dead trolling motor batteries. At the end of the day, it looked like I jumped in the lake. I wish I did, the lake was warmer than the air and I was freezing. So now I have all this money to spend. I'm thinking of getting the JR XS3, Stater Box, and maybe a few electronics (temp gauge, speedmeter). Ironic how bass fishing got me money for R/C equipment. :D :D :D :p

offroadcrazy01

05-02-2004, 10:40 AM

How come more power comes out of one tire more than the other ,I think my right tire has more power then the left maybe my diff if to tight what do you guys think

BIGDADDYV

05-02-2004, 12:31 PM

hey guys i dont know if this is possible but i bored out my exhaust manifold and think I got more HP... this thing really flies now for some reason ........ WOOOOO HOOOOOOOO ..... I will have to post a before and after pic of it also so you guys can see the changes i did to it...... Heres a lil hint its almost bullet proof and water proof ... HEHEHEH ....TTYL BDV

fuzzy2133

05-02-2004, 01:00 PM

How come more power comes out of one tire more than the other ,I think my right tire has more power then the left maybe my diff if to tight what do you guys think

the diff could be too loose or when you take off the right tire is breaking loose and the left tire stays planted. the only thing I would do is set it like the manual tells you to.

dog8spam

05-02-2004, 04:29 PM

Also check that they are worn the same, you could just drive a certain way that wears out one side faster than the other. I have to "rotate" my tires L to R because I naturally always do donuts one way.

Another thing is gravel. It always gets stuck in the most impossible places and could be slowing down one of the tires.

LearjetMinako

05-02-2004, 05:49 PM

I just spent my third place money on a couple of things. I got the Vemon Speed Meter, three cans of paint (pearl blue, sprint white, and metalic red), exhuast deflector, and a 12v battery charger (the last one smoked and then caught on fire) for the lead acid battery that will be used for the starter box. All in all, I spent alot today, and already I got the speedmeter installed. Tuesday, I get the JR XS3 radio system from my LHS. It would have been monday to get it, but the LHS is closed on Monday's.

Venom's VSM senor installation:
Parts that I used were, one the exhuast bolts (short) that came with the kit, sevro mount that I had extras of (actually stripped out threads), one short & one big servo spacers, two washers that came w/ the VSM, and two screws that came out of my R/C junk box (actually grave yard for toy r/c's).

1. Replace the shock tower bolt on the right (looking from the rear) w/ the longer exhuast bolt. It should poke all the way through.
2. Take the servo mount and screw it in on the opposite side (where the bolt comes out). Do not screw the bolt into the servo mount but screw the mount on to the bolt, this way the shock tower hold will not strip out. Also make sure the two screw holes on the servo mount point to the right, towards the spur gear.
3. Take two screw and place, in this order on the screw, washer, sensor, thin spacer, thick spacer, and screw in to the servo mount.

dirtbike

05-02-2004, 09:01 PM

Is associated gona be coming out with a new rc10gt. cause i want to get one, or if i have to wait till the new one comes out.

Polk

05-02-2004, 11:33 PM

That question has been answered MANY a time dirtbike, and the answer is no, not in the near future...

RustlerRyan

05-02-2004, 11:50 PM

Ok, I need help on finding the best of the best hop-ups. My goal is to let everyone know what the best nitro hop-ups are and not only give them a sweet picture, but send them right to the manufacturer. Hobby shops make everything sound good. Not this site, if it isn't the best, or recomended by you, then it won't be here:

http://www.infiniterc.com

You can jump right in and submit your favorite hops by clicking the submit hop-ups from the home page!

rocknbil

05-04-2004, 12:15 PM

26 posts (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/search.php?searchid=15594), almost every one of them spam. Wrong way to market your site.

dog8spam

05-04-2004, 09:56 PM

You cant make one list of the best hop-ups everyone needs different things because they run thier GTs so differently. Also a skilled mechanic will beat a rich kid anyday.

BIGDADDYV

05-05-2004, 12:36 AM

Preach on Rock and Spam .............. thats one of the biggest things that puts me off to this sport or hobby... You put all this effort into your ride.. Getting to run like the bat out of hell you always knew it could be and some 15yr old kid comes out with his brand new ride and 400 bucks worth of crap and crashes into you because he doesnt care about the replacement cost or the time you put into yours.... His mom and dad bought it for him cause he caught an episode of Inside Rc and thought the Fast and furious look was just NEAT...... Sorry for the partial rant and i do know that this does not go for all of our young racers out there and may just be a partial description of some of our older drivers also ..... I just wanted to finally get this out into writing to see if anyone else agrees with me .... HOP UPS Should be purchased on a need basis... Not to impress your friends.... You can have the best looking ride in the first heat but the guy with the fastest one gets his pic taken with the cute trophy girl... :-)
thanks for listening ... BDV

KanaiDude

05-05-2004, 07:13 AM

I have hop ups that I do and don't need, I love this hobby and tricking out my car, so I am not the best driver in the world, I try though, I've only been racing for a year and may have the pimpest ride in the c main but who cares its all in love for the hobby. I take it you have had your ride smashed buy a kid in the past? I will continue to pimp my ride however I feel and sorry If I took you out on that last double jump!

LearjetMinako

05-05-2004, 07:56 AM

I think we all have had expercience w/ kids that want to drive our cars becuase they are fast (I know I do, he won't leave me alone, like white on rice). Or have a inexpercienced driver w/ a RTR just ripping loose at the track and smashing in to others. All we can do is help point him in the right direction (maybe a wall if he got everybody tic-ed). Can't really ask or order him off the track. But some just aren't use to the controls and accidently wreck in to others, but they learn quick enough. And ( as BIGDADDYV said) kids that get there rides all together and they themselves didn't build it w/ over $400 in it and then wrecking it in to other drivers cars. Its a bit fustrating. I already have about over $500 in my GT and its still missing an engine and starter box to finish the project off, but I do hold it like I would do a baby. Just put too much time, effort, work, and money into this project to let it get wrecked just yet. :cool:

jnegrx

05-05-2004, 11:58 AM

The new drivers can and will crash into any one that tries to pass them but it take a talented driver to drive around them. Remember when you first started out? I bet you didn't controled your ride as well as you would like. I've been hit a lot of times by new drivers but i don't get mad at them(maybe a little) but i get mad at myself more because i could have waited a little and then get him at the next corner were he will go wide. You are right in that this hobby is not cheap and that hop ups are not always needed, if it doesn't make my car faster or perform better i don't like it.

rocknbil

05-05-2004, 12:21 PM

Well.

There's an old saying . . . . "You are only going to get out of it what you put into it."

Sure there are Joneses in this hobby, just like in real life. The guy down the street with the 4 ATV's and two Ski-doos that doesn't even really like off-roading or boating, just takes them out once a year to show he's got the big bucks. The kid with the 500 RTR that drives it into the curb on the first day and shelves it for a month while he learns a new video game. No difference really.

But if you really like this stuff, none of that matters. Sure, my wife's GT has a full set of purple anodized screws, we run aluminum shock towers not because of strength but just for bling (they WILL bend my friends, i am here to testify! But they bend back.) Hop ups are often not necessary, but we do them anyway because we love this sheeit. :D

It doesn't matter that the rich kid down the block has twice your machine; you have ten times the knowledge. It doesn't matter that hack-boy is trying to take you out on every lap, the challenge is getting around him unscathed.

As for what started all this, it's not the hop-up site that bugs me, it's the fact that people take advantage of a free resource like this board for their own gain, it is selfish and rude.

cbr74

05-05-2004, 12:22 PM

I pity anybody that crashes into my GT. It was built to be a tank. Parts from Lunsford, RPM, Trinity, etc, etc... all attached to a 1/8" slab of 6-4 Ti. It's as close to indestructible as I could make it and with a Picco XP15 powering it... not all that slow either.

Kids wantin to drive... doesn't bother me a bit. Friend of mine has a little boy that's deaf... you've never seen a kid so jazzed as when he gets to drive one of my R/C's. To "protect my investment"... I control the throttle, he steers. Works out great.

BIGDADDYV

05-05-2004, 05:47 PM

Last year i introduced my 6yr old into this great hobby of ours . He loves it now and really enjoys putting together his own wheels and making sure his that everything is clean... The throttle control is set on the lowest possible setting and he take control of it and does very well... I am very proud of my best driving buddy.... He progresses every time we go out and he is learning to identify parts on his own as we build kits... SO i can understand what your saying about your friends child....
I was just trying to convey through my last post that no matter what the age in my opinion you should at LEAST be able to control your vehicle ( second part to the title of our hobby (RADIO CONTROL) before taking it onto a track .... Its great that people want to PIMP THEIR RIDE... I have done alot of work to my GT in the short period of time that ive had it (mostly for strength and umm ok I will admit BLING!!!!!) LOL .... Noone wants to loose their ride in a sea of other trucks.. That is why i customise and try to build better than the next guy... I think its great and innovative that people of all ages want to do as much as humanly posible to their rides... I would just like for them to be able to control their new ROCKET so they dont destroy what has taken several man hours and a bit of cash to create.... I enjoy this hobby and no matter what will do everything I can to help anyone that i can have a great time an further our hobby.... I would just like to see the new people take a look at what has taken alot of poeple a long time to help create.....
With out the innovation of some great customisers I do not think that the Hop Ups of today would be availible... Keep the rubber side down and drive it like you stole it ...... BDV

Kenny T

05-06-2004, 07:22 AM

...Hop ups are often not necessary...

I think I need hop ups. I'm not planning on driving my GT as I've said before so my friends who doesn't know how to control an RC will be driving it. They'll try stupid things and I don't really want things to break parts since it might take 4-6 weeks depending on what part I need. I bought parts that I thought I'd need.

BTW Bill, Has the MO got there yet?

rocknbil

05-06-2004, 12:58 PM

Actually Kenny it just arrived YESTERDAY! But . . . <embarrassed> I forgot to bring it to work today. As soon as we deposit it we'll send the stuff off to you - tomorrow being Friday it won't go anywhere, so COUNT on your stuff going out Monday priority mail.

rocknbil

05-07-2004, 05:26 AM

Update - all taken care of and your parts will go out tomorrow (Friday. OK today, haven't been to bed yet.)

Kenny T

05-07-2004, 07:51 AM

Ok, thanks a lot Bill. :D

rocknbil

05-07-2004, 10:27 PM

Ack.

<torrid story>

So the parts come from RC Boys in a priority box. We take all the labels off, put your shipping label on it, the wife goes down to send it off today and they said "Nope! Can't ship it international in that box, have to repackage it without anything showing even the blue priority mail stripes!"

So I guess it IS going to be Monday.
</torrid story>

LearjetMinako

05-08-2004, 09:00 PM

Got my starter box in. Can't say much about how long it took to get to my house, but than that it came 4 days earlier than what was said. Boy, Towerhobbies is on the ball w/ shipping. The starter box is from Team Associated. Its a bit clunky to carry but at least it was at a fair price for all that metal housing. Already got it setup w/ in 1 hour after it came to my door. Now all I need left is a engine and fuel, then I'll be ripping up the streets. :D

rocknbil

05-09-2004, 03:52 PM

...Now all I need left is a engine and fuel, then I'll be ripping up the streets.

Gotta say it!

Don't rip up the streets. Rip up the baseball diamond, park, empty lot, empty parking lot, BMX track, RC track - but stay off the street. For one, curbs are evil low-lying, sneaky critters. They seem stationary but will jump out in front of you at the earliest opportunity. Every post that has the word "broken" in it will almost always have the word "curb."

Secondly there ARE liability issues. It only takes one full scale driver to say "I was distracted by that kid's RC" and off you go into a bunch of legal crap you don't need. It has happened.

Not "telling you what to do" but if we all drive responsibly and STAY OFF THE STREET, there won't be any stupid laws put into effect to control our play. They're already lobbying for it in large metro areas, like LA.

Besides, don't want to see your new GT with street rash, do ya? :D

LearjetMinako

05-09-2004, 10:40 PM

Well, actually today, I just ran my GT for the first time, ON THE Street. After hearing it, I'm going to have to decide not to drive it on the street again. Its a bit too loud for comfort, plus my neighbor is trying to sell his house and he doesn't need a loud R/C to discourage the buyers. But for the first 6 miles (used the VMS) I actually got to see it go, wasn't quick at first w/ engine break-in but when I got to the 5 tank, the GT toped off at 28mph (once again the VSM). Now that is a bit slow, but the final ratio is pretty high (like around 12). Maybe a little more tuning and I'll see 30mph. There is one thing thou. The clutch slips like my Blazer when it got stuck in third. I mean, its not even funny about how much it slips. The engine will be turing 20,000rpms but the bell will be only doing like 4,000rpms. So clutch is the first thing that got to go. Thinking of replacing it w/ a MIP 4-n-1. It was nice to hear tires sqeel from start to half way up to speed. Never thought it would do that.

Start box is nice, easy to use, no more yanking, just a bit more equipment to carry. The GT is also easy to clean up, but wait until I get it on the dirt. :D

I'll try to get a picture of it soon, maybe tomorrow after high school.
Heres a list of equipment:
JR XS3 Radio System
OS .15 CV-R
pink Exhuast Deflector (nice for keeping the oil off the suspension for a little, a stinger would be even more nicer)
Dynamite Fail-Safe
Vemon's Speed Meter
Trinity 1150mah NI-MH Rx Battery
servo ext cord (to get power to the Rx)
Pro-line wheels & tires
O' Dondell fuel (can never spell it right, one day I will)
and the final equipment, me w/ too much time on my hands and too many ideas in my head. :p
:cool:

As for curbs, I wish someone told me about how evil they were when my NMT decide to go 35mph into one. It made it thou, in about couple pieces every where. Still have it and it still runs. Fail-safe's, got to have them. ;)

Shady

05-10-2004, 10:35 AM

The AE RC10GT and tebo win the Roar Gas Nats

rocknbil

05-10-2004, 12:47 PM

... when I got to the 5 tank, the GT toped off at 28mph ... The clutch slips like my Blazer when it got stuck in third. ....

The engine will gain power as it breaks in more and yeah, you find it's sweet spot. You can get it up to 40 or so without anything special. :D

As for the clutch thing: I run an MIP because everyone said I needed one, but had no trouble with the stock ones. ARE YOU SURE you have the trailing edges facing correctly? (Although when they're backwards they lock right in.) You can expirament with them per your manual trimming them down, that will give you a faster engagement.

Secondly are you sure it's the engine clutch, and not the slipper clutch?

KanaiDude

05-10-2004, 02:03 PM

Hey rocknbil, so with the stock clutch shoes I get a small amount of engagement is this normal? do most people have this problem with gas10 trucks?

LearjetMinako

05-10-2004, 05:43 PM

Yeah, I'm sure the clutch is the one thats slipping and the slipper clutch. I might try installing the clutch shoes backwards (trailing edges facing counter-clockwise). I found a sweet spot in the needle, runs a bit lean but not so much that it doesn't stop putting out oil through the exhuast. Got it up to 32mph today leaning it out, I'll keep the needle at 2 turns for a while until I get a temp gauge. The sweet spot is at 1.5 turns. Gotta love the tires sqeeling through turns and speeding up.

LearjetMinako

05-10-2004, 05:46 PM

Second pic of more of the stuff I use. You can barely see the GT body behind everything. Not much, was my first time trying to do flames. Turned into blob flames.

Oh, and another thing. The tires on it now aren't the ones that came w/ it. Saving those for when I race. Using these old ones from my T3 RTR, they are shot any how. Can't really make them any worse. :D

rocknbil

05-10-2004, 08:50 PM

Hey rocknbil, so with the stock clutch shoes I get a small amount of engagement is this normal?

You mean at idle? That's normal with any clutch. Or slipping too much?

Most people hate them, I just never had a problem with them unless a bearing was about to go.

dog8spam

05-10-2004, 09:47 PM

DONT install the clutch shoes backwards!!!! Probably nothing would happen anyway, since your engine wouldnt be able to run long enough. When you say stock clutch if you mean just the 2-shoe, yes it should be replaced. Associated does make a four shoe that works well (I use it). Also if you dont trim it it will not work as well. I trim mine at 2 1/2 or 2.

As far as the streets I never get near cars because once I had my GT glitch at a very bad moment and go in front of a car. It went under it, hit the transmission case and shot out between just in front of the rear tires. Luckily the people didnt care and they probably shouldnt have been there anyway.

LearjetMinako

05-10-2004, 10:51 PM

It slips every where on the rpm range. It sounds more like a automatic transmission than a standard (if you know what I mean). And here I just reversed the shoes too, I guess I'll change them back tomorrow morning. The shoes showed good contact and good wear marks, the problem is that they are just too light to apply enough force to grip. As they are now, they are good for very loose dirt were max traction isn't needed. But I'll be racing on a hilly course thats a blue groove track. So, quick take off & pulling power is a must. Maybe I'll add a little screw in them to see if that helps. Either way, next time I go to the LHS, I'm getting the MIP 4-n-1 clutch. Oh, they are the shoes that came w/ the kit. The 2-shoe clutch.

I'm going to need a different place to run the GT or get a quieter pipe. Its just too loud for my neighborhood and we also have rules on saying about engine noise. Something about unmufflered engines are prohibted, engine noise is allowed for lawn care equipment if equiped w/ manufactor's muffler or quiter muffler. Its a way to help prevent unwanted car engine noise like those from a motorcycle or a Honda Civic, or maybe my R/C might be next on the list. As for cars, every time I see one coming. I pull my R/C in next to me and make sure its facing the curb. So if it does try to run off, it won't go farther than a foot away from me. :cool:

rocknbil

05-11-2004, 01:14 PM

... Luckily the people didnt care and they probably shouldnt have been there anyway.

Dog - people DO put them in backwards as a way to get a locked clutch. Usually you have to trim them so you can get some slip.

When you say "probably shouldn't have been there anyway" - you mean the full-scale car you hit shouldn't have been on the street? :D

Learjet if it's slipping all across the band the first thing I would do is re-check the slipper clutch (the torque control) to see if it's slipping there. Put your toe on the front of the truck so it can't move, give it a couple hard gooses on the throttle, just enough to barely make the wheels break loose. While doing so, look at the slipper - is it spinning (but of course, the wheels are not?) If so, there's your slip.

Otherwise you might take the clutch bell off and give it a rough-up on the inside with some 400 grit sandpaper, something's not right there. Generally a stock engine clutch will slip for about the bottom 1/4 of the power range, then fully engage after that.

LearjetMinako

05-11-2004, 08:03 PM

Well the GT seems to acclerate a lot better now. I guess the clutch just needed a little break in period for it to really work. But since it is now gripping better, the GT hooks up better to the road and now I can do dounts and peel outs. I was smoking the tires today on the concerte. :eek: I guess a little hard driving through grass did the trick and now it runs great. But I still got to find a place to drive it w/o being disturbed by neighorhood kids asking me, "Is that electric?", while its running. Sunday, I might try practicing out on the track at the LHS. See how well it does on jumps, tight turns & corners, and of course, dirt for the first for this little beauty. It will make me kinda of sad to see it get dirty but whats the point if I can't let it rip for what it was made for. :cool:

"It is impossible to make anything foolproof because fools are so ingenious"

"If you don't care where you are, then you ain't lost"

"If you can't learn to do it well, learn to enjoy doing it badly."

dog8spam

05-11-2004, 08:42 PM

Dog - people DO put them in backwards as a way to get a locked clutch. Usually you have to trim them so you can get some slip.
When you say "probably shouldn't have been there anyway" - you mean the full-scale car you hit shouldn't have been on the street?

:confused: Thats the two shoe right? Also how does it keep from overheating?

About the car judging by the occupents and the house they were going to they probably wouldnt want to bring any attention to themselvs. Thank goodness the people that owned that house finally moved.

rocknbil

05-11-2004, 08:54 PM

Ahh. Cranksters. Anyway yeah, two shoe, it just stays locked in and I guess you'd loosen the slipper a little more. Never needed to myself, but people do it. <shrug>

LearjetMinako

05-16-2004, 08:04 PM

Test drove my GT at the track for the first time. The GT seems to be a well balanced truck. It fly through the air w/ little assist in the throttle to keep it level. And landing don't really beat it up too, except when it angles up too much and lands on the battery/rear bumper. At first, the slipper clutch and clutch were slipping like crazy and couldn't get it up to speed quickly enough to make jumps too well. Turned the clutch shoes backwards, and added thread lock to one side of the slipper pad. Now it has blistering accleration and its hard to keep it from becoming air born from hitting a rut on the track. The GT only averaged a max speed of 30 MPH today, but the track was very technical to drive. Overall, I have to say this truck was built for me in mind and me for it. It drives naturally to the curves and drifts well w/ a little hastent to go wild and do dounts (or fishtail). But the roastertails are awesome to see when I hit WOT out the turn. Clean up is also a breeze, a little air blasting and its almost completely clean. Just a little scrubing w/ sock (had to use something, and old socks w/ holes in them fit the budget) and its clean again.

Man I love this truck now. Never thought that is would handle as well as it did today. :D :D :D :p :cool:

offroadcrazy01

05-16-2004, 09:25 PM

What set-up did you use I use the tebo set up for hotrods on my truck blue and silver or silver and silver springs you will sit in oooooohhh land I know I did but good luck welcome to the gt club what does your track look like is it hard packed or loose dirt

LearjetMinako

05-16-2004, 11:06 PM

I used blue-front & blue-rear springs on a #1 piston on all shocks (the one w/ the biggest holes). The track is a bit of both loose and hard dirt. The oval streach is hard-packed dirt (which is clay and is cracking all over). And the turns, hills, jumps, and bumps are mostly of loose dirt. Some times its hard to control the vechile coming out of a corner because of the loose dirt. I had to coast through some the turns until the GT was pointed in the right direction before I hit the throttle.

tl_ke_racer

05-16-2004, 11:16 PM

i was wondering what are some low cost upgrades for my gt plus??? i was thinking of getting a metal spur gear and fuel filter, what do u experts think?

doesgo

05-17-2004, 06:29 AM

Fuel filter, yes. Steel spur....no. Spend time making sure your bell/spur mesh is right and that your slipper clutch is properly adjusted and you shouldn't need a metal spur. I've been running my GT rather hard on and off for over a year and only toasted one spur.

Do you race or bash or both? A better (faster and more powerful) steering servo is always nice, and a rechargeable receiver battery pack is a must. After that, I like RPM's A-arms and bulkhead, but some folks don't like them for racing because they're more flexible than stock. RPM's ball cups are very nice, as are Lunsford's titanium turnbuckles. Or you go could go with AE Factory Team turnbuckles.

I'm sure other people will have plenty of ways to spend your money. :)

Breakin2

05-17-2004, 01:15 PM

Hey, I just picked up an RC10GT non-pullstart Factory Team. I want to race it with a .12 engine. What's the best .12 non-pullstart engine out there that isn't too expensive?

doesgo

05-17-2004, 01:26 PM

The O.S. .12 CV-R: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ72&P=7 It's $110 right now at Tower and they have a $5 off coupon thing on their homepage, too. Very good power, very reliable. Can't beat it for the price.

Breakin2

05-17-2004, 02:16 PM

Thanks! I'll look into it.

dog8spam

05-18-2004, 07:10 AM

definately get the OS.

tl_ke_racer

05-18-2004, 11:27 PM

hey my friend just got a used truck for 50 bucks ready to run but theirs a problem when he throttles it the car doesnt move, i think its because the thing the bump starter used to turn the motor over is loose, is this true or is it somthin else.

rocknbil

05-19-2004, 12:48 PM

hey my friend just got a used truck for 50 bucks ready to run but theirs a problem when he throttles it the car doesnt move . . .

There are many things it could be, but let's go from obvious to less obvious:

First check the slipper clutch, there's a round assembly sticking out from the right side of the top of the transmission (right, looking toward the front of the car) with a nut on the end of it. With the car running, put your foot on the front of it so it cant move, press down on it a little so the rear wheels can't spin, and give it a few bursts of gas. if the OUTSIDE of the slipper is turning when you do this and the CENTER SHAFT is not, tighten the nut on the center of the shaft and try again.

If NEITHER the outside or center shaft are turning, skip to the engine clutch.

If the center shaft IS turning when you do this, or it's turning after you tighten it but still slipping, then check diff.

Check Diff: My first GT was an eBay item, and had the EXACT same symptoms. What happened was the previous owner didn't realize that as the truck breaks in, the ball diff settles and needs to be tightened.

The first thing a lot of new nitro owners want to do is lock down the slipper and pop wheelies (man! :D ) With a slipping diff, the balls slide on the rings and cause friction and heat, causing the diff ball holes in the diff gear to melt and encase the balls in plastic so they can no longer roll. Since they no longer roll, the diff gets looser and looser until it slips completely. The tranny needs to be dissassembled and the diff rings and diff gear need to be replaced. If you an afford it, put new balls in too, but sometimes you can get away with the same balls, they're pretty tough. This will probably run you under ten bucks (without the balls.)

This condition can be further verified by (engine off now) holding the spur so it can't turn and turning one rear wheel. The opposite wheel should turn in the OPPOSITE direction, and smoothly. If the balls are melted to the diff gear, the opposite wheel will not turn or try to turn in the same direction - in any case you'll know something is up.

Engine Clutch: Lastly, if neither the topshaft or spur are turning with the stomp-and-gas-it test, then your engine clutch is shot or slipping, or the flywheel has worked loose and is not gripping the engine shaft. Pull the engine, remove the clutch, check out that the flywheel locks solidly onto the engine shaft, and put new shoes (or an MIP clutch) on it and go.

tl_ke_racer

05-20-2004, 11:44 PM

yeah i figured out his problem, the guy he got it from got the wrong flywheel, the thing wouldnt go on right and would just spin freely, like usually u turnthe flywheel and it turns over the motor, this one just spun freely. I checked the slipper and everything else it wuz fine.

rocknbil

05-21-2004, 01:30 PM

yeah i figured out his problem, the guy he got it from got the wrong flywheel ...

TL- it's probably not the wrong flywheel, it's probably the collet or the flywheel is worn in the collet taper.

The collet is that little tapered brass ring that goes on the crankshaft just before the flywheel. It has to fit PERFECTLY in the mating surface of the flywheel - very little room for error here. Sometimes you can put a single steel shim (do not use pot metal washers) under the collet it and that will give you the extra grunt to lock the collet into the flywheel, but most often if the flywheel gets loose and it is allowed to slip long enough, it beats up the mating surface of the aluminum flywheel, making it impossible for the collet to lock unto the flywheel under any circumstance.

Nex collet, new flywheel is the most sure fix.

Kenny T

05-21-2004, 11:07 PM

I got a blue chassis conversion and a RPM rear Bulkhead for my GT. The problem is the bulkhead won't fit inbetween the arm mounts. Do I need RPM arm mounts as well?

Polk

05-22-2004, 12:32 AM

Shouldnt do. Does the stock bulkhead fit?

Kenny T

05-22-2004, 08:03 AM

The stock bulkhead fits fine, I've put that back on so I can put the car together.

offroadcrazy01

05-23-2004, 12:06 PM

loosen the arms mounts and then try to put the bulkhead in I have that bulkhead on my gt and it's great

KanaiDude

05-24-2004, 12:56 PM

Hey guys I'm having a heck of a time trying to get my motor tuned right in my GT, I have a new TR, is it bad to try and break it in with the cluctch and all? Was wondering if you all ever had a problem breaking a motor in with the stock clucth, just concerened because of the slight engagement problem and was wondering if that could make a "green" motor stall, I will accelerate and think the motor is fine and then it cuts out when I brake etc., I'm not a total novice when it comes to motor tuning is why i'm wondering if there is some other issue here like the clutch or brake, any insight would be greatly appreciated. It is an OS TR motor with an os #8 plug. Thanks!

rocknbil

05-24-2004, 02:55 PM

Well I will be the only one to speak in defense of the stock clutch. :D Used them for a year or so without all of the other complaints I hear and they will work fine, if you have faith.

It's more likely that you have **possibly** upped your idle to compensate for a poor low speed mixture (or are just running it high anyway.) When it's idling and on the ground, how fast does it go? It should lurch forward at no more than a heel-toe slow walk, or not move at all. If you're at a fast walk or a slow run, your idle is probably too high.

When the idle is high, the clutch shoes engage a little harder, so when you brake, it hits it pretty hard. What you have to do is get the idle speed down as low as you can - generally if it will idle at brake for ten seconds without dying, that's considered a good compromise. However, it IS possible to reach perfection - my Picco will idle at brake indefinately. :D

KanaiDude

05-24-2004, 03:55 PM

Thanks rocknbill, I was most concerned that the small engagement would somehow be messing me up while trying to break in the TR, it does not sound like this is the case though, and I just need to keep chasing my tail, thanks!

LearjetMinako

05-25-2004, 08:39 PM

Got my finally piece of equipment installed. The Venom Temp Monitor is pretty nifftey. By its readings (under 200*), I was able to tell wether to lean out the engine more. Got it now to sit around 260* but I did run the engine up to 300*, Ooopps :eek: . And also from my VSM, I now have a top speed of 39 MPH. Thats pretty good :p . I might have to change the clutch shoes back to normal position. Being reversed gives the clutch a bit too much bite and I end up w/ a h*ll of a lot of torque steer. But its fun to do peel-out and dounts. :D

Breakin2

05-26-2004, 10:13 PM

I just received my factory team kit. How hard is this thing to put together? I've built electric kits before, but never a nitro. Also, any word on when the next version of this truck is coming out? I'd hate to get this now and have the GT2 (or whatever) come out next month or something.

Fantom 15 gt

05-27-2004, 09:00 AM

Aparently the GT 4 is in the making but it will be a long time before it comes out....

fuzzy2133

05-27-2004, 08:49 PM

GT 4? 4wd stadium truck or still a 2wd racer?

jnegrx

05-28-2004, 01:25 AM

It will be 2WD.

potatoe_bird

05-28-2004, 10:34 PM

I thought the name GT 4 was already taken by yokomo (or something like that)

Anyways, look at my new baby! :D

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5900825698&sspagename

I bought it off of him so he ended the auction.

Fantom 15 gt

05-29-2004, 09:34 AM

aww I should of said that the new GT will be verson 4 sorry about the confusin.

P.S potatoe bird make sure you read my post in the nitro forum about your new baby.

potatoe_bird

05-29-2004, 10:48 AM

P.S potatoe bird make sure you read my post in the nitro forum about your new baby.

Ok, lol

What tires should I get for my grandmas ranch? She has 300+ acres and I am going next weekend! :D There is allitle bit of everything so an all terain tire is what I need. I'm thinking mashers but this is my first nitro st so I don't know.

mnster

05-29-2004, 11:53 AM

I would Use the proline Dirt hawgs!!!

What chassis is the better one to have the thin blue or the older tube chassis :confused:

I just bought a O.S. .15 cv-r and I tried to mount it but it just won't line up I think it's the mounts I have the ones in there for a pull start So I need the non pullstart engine mounts $10 at tower. I Think :confused:

Does anyone have any extra set just siting around for cheeper? LMK :cool:

potatoe_bird

05-29-2004, 12:08 PM

I like those dirthawgs. :cool: Plus they are only 11.49 for 2! I think I will order 4. :)

Did you get this one?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALL6&P=ML

mnster

05-29-2004, 07:18 PM

Yes And I just made custom engine mounts They work great!! Yes thats the engine I'm brakeing In the engine right now.

I have my old engine for parts its a O.S. .15 cv-x It just needs a new piston and sleeve everything else like bearings and pullstarter in great condition. It ran when I had it In my rc10gt When I bought my rc10gt for $55shipped

I would sell the engine for $30shipped the carb is more then $30 and some of the other parts are to I have some pic's just email me...

At peaveyplayer23@yahoo.com Thank You!!!

megasaxon

05-30-2004, 07:09 PM

i like the dirt works myself, they are similar to the dirt hawgs, they work great on pretty much every surface even snow!

hey in case any of you guys want a copy of the RC10GT manual, go here: http://ebiz.netopia.com/competitionx/formsmanuals/

mnster

05-31-2004, 12:27 AM

Thanks I needed a rc10gt manual

dog8spam

06-02-2004, 07:32 AM

There was alot of talk about a 4th GT awhile back but it has all died down untill now. If they do I dont think they will make a completely new kit from the ground up, it hasnt happened so far with the GT.

Fantom 15 gt

06-02-2004, 09:16 AM

naa I recon they'll just change the suspension geometry.

potatoe_bird

06-02-2004, 08:03 PM

I am using the reciever out of my ofna hyper 7 pbs in my gt. I want a failsafe but which one do I buy?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH328&P=7
or
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJD5&P=7

They have different connectors but I don't know which one to get.

cbr74

06-02-2004, 08:11 PM

All Ofna's I've ever seen use Sanwa/Airtronics radio gear, so get an Airtronics compatible failsafe.

The Venom's are pretty good, I hear:
http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=20812&clist=0,9833,11419

my personal choice is this one:
http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&pi_id=17680&clist=0,9833,11419

potatoe_bird

06-02-2004, 08:14 PM

What's the difference?

fuzzy2133

06-02-2004, 08:21 PM

they both will do the same thing. the Venom does not have that little tab on the side so it will work with any radio system. the KO has that tab however you can cut it off to work. it really comes down to what company you rather have. I have pretty much only ran the Venom, Mip, and GWS. they all work great.

surfer

06-06-2004, 04:48 AM

i thought theres only been 2 versions of the GT?

fuzzy2133

06-06-2004, 02:07 PM

it all depends on if you include the RTR versions. the only 2 I count is the tub chassis and the flat aluminum chassis.

rocknbil

06-06-2004, 02:37 PM

Kinda cool how it hasn't changed much in 10 or 12 years, huh? Must mean "it works." :D

Actually if you consider the chassis the main indicator of the version, you have to separate the aluminum RTR from the Team. I don't know why they did this, as production costs only increase with a completely different chassis, but the RTR chassis is 1/4" shorter, is thicker by a mm or 2, and has no beveling around the starter box hole. Other than that it's identical.

LearjetMinako

06-06-2004, 04:10 PM

Back from vacation at Bernhards Bay, New York. Missed my all my R/C stuff for the 10-days that I was gone. But its great to be back and find out new stuff, like the talk about the GT ver.4. Like what rocknbil said, "Kinda cool how it hasn't changed much in 10 or 12 years, huh? Must mean "it works." ". Four-wheeling, checking out the new property that my parents recently bought, and beware of mosquitoes everywhere (not even OFF can save you). But the real prize was when I went to the R/C airfield down the rail-road bed, somebody trashed a whole airplane. They stripped it of gear but trashed the rest. The wing was in execllent shape but too bad I can't say the same for the fuseluge (totaled to the tail section).

Glad to be back home and to have a working shower (oh, my grandparents didn't have the shower working, swim in the lake for a bath :D )

dog8spam

06-06-2004, 06:30 PM

Id say there's at least three versions, first the blacktub white nylon GT, then the upgrade to black T2 parts which are still used now, and lastly the stamped blue chassis.

boatman

06-07-2004, 12:03 AM

Hey Ive been racing my NTC3 on asphalt and bought a rc10gt to run oval.Can anyone help me with a good starting point set up for dirt oval?

Thanks Ray

dog8spam

06-09-2004, 11:12 AM

Go to http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/dirt_1.asp They also did an article on a GT they outfitted for dirt oval but its not on the site.

Breakin2

06-09-2004, 03:05 PM

Hey, I'm currently building a Factory Team GT and I'm having a bit of trouble with the Servo Saver Assembly. I can't seem to get the thing onto the chassis tightly. I keep trying to tighten it, but the whole damn assembly moves when I do. Is it supposed to be a little bit loose? Any tips for tightening it if it's not supposed to be like that?
Thanks.

LearjetMinako

06-09-2004, 03:27 PM

The servo saver itself needs to move. The only thing that doesn't need to move are the bolts that stick up through the chassis. Make sure the plain nuts (part #8182) are tight w/ the bolt (#7306) through the chassis. Then install the servo saver on to it.

Breakin2

06-09-2004, 04:34 PM

Thanks for the idea. My whole assembly is moving, so that's certainly no good.

Leinzey

06-09-2004, 04:43 PM

Well guys, it's finally time to get sell my FTGT and everything else. The complete package is posted in the For Sale/Trade section and I'd appreciate you all checking it out. I'll miss the RC scene and the GT; hope one of you might enjoy it :)

Breakin2

06-09-2004, 07:01 PM

What are some good servos for throttle and steering?

LearjetMinako

06-09-2004, 07:16 PM

The ones that came w/ the JR XS radio system really seem to do the trick. The steering servo being metal gear and having a deacent amount of torque works for me. I recommend a steering servo aleast w/ 80oz/in at 6.0V. As for the throttle servo, almost any servo will do.

I'm a JR guy, I've been w/ them from air to sea and now on land. Never really owned anything else but JR equipment. :D
Throttle: JR Z270 - 40+oz/in
Steering: JR Z590M - 85 oz/in

If steering power is a issue then a JR Z650M will do any job, even for a monster truck
JR Z650M - at 6V
Torque: 142 oz/in
Speed: .17sec / 60 degrees
Metal geared, size of a standard servo, retail price: $50

Breakin2

06-09-2004, 08:04 PM

Thanks for the advice. I picked up an engine for my truck, as well as a receiver and paint, however I somehow forgot servos.

nitro_newbie

06-10-2004, 08:16 PM

well this is my first post and i wanted 2 know if the a.e rc10gt is a better chioce to go with instead of a losi xxx-nt rtr and if the gt is worth every penny and durabule
thanks alot

doesgo

06-10-2004, 08:50 PM

If you're a basher I'd go with the RC10GT, if you're going to race it I'd go with a Losi Triple-XNT or Mugen MST-1. All three are great trucks and worth every penny, in my opinion.

rocknbil

06-10-2004, 10:05 PM

What are some good servos for throttle and steering?

Breakin - got pics of your linkage problem? The two specialized screws that go through the chassis should go in first and the whole thing should slide down on top of them.

For THROTTLE servos, you need something FAST, like .15 or faster. With a standard .22 - .33 servo, if you're going full speed and you hit the brakes, you can travel 20 feet or so before the brakes even begin to apply as the servo swings from WOT to brake. Most people get in the habit of braking far ahead of time, but this is definately a nice touch.

For STEERING, anything over 89 oz/in will hold the wheels in corners, but the faster servo is good for both.

I use the old discontinued Futaba 9450's (which are now the S9402's (http://www.futaba-rc.com/servos/futm0029.html).) At 4.8 volts, 89 oz/in .13 sec, at 6.0 volts 111/.10 sec, all metal gears, brass output spline, dual ball bearings top and bottom, coreless motor ar-ar-ar-ARUUUUU . . . my 9450's are over 10 years old and still going strong. They are blazing fast.