Associated RC10GT Forum v8.0

[LearjetMinako]

I believe it means brushless. Tell the truth, I'm not too sure my self, but I do now that they last longer, take less energy, and don't really wear out. I also believe they are more assosiated w/ digital servos more. But then again, I could be wrong. Now you got me thinking, I'll never get sleep till I find what it means in "print". :confused: :( ;)

Been driving the TC3 from the dirt oval setup, just slapped slicks and went. But the fun thing is that the setup is odd for on-road but its so fun to hear the sqeel come from the tires as it slips & slides over the concerate. Loved it so much that I almost forgot to lower the timing on the motor, almost went into thermal melt down (28 degree timing). I might leave the setup as is if it proves it can hold its line on the real race course. Gotta love that sound when drifting, makes it more like the real thing. :D :p :cool:

[NitroBoy24]

Any guesses if and when there might be an updated rc10gt? The only thing I can think of them upgrading is switching to the B4/T4 wide arm suspension. Other then that I cant think of anything. I am debating selling my gt to a neighbor kid who wants to get into r/cs with my stock radio system, etc and then buying a Factory Team GT or something..Or if a new one is coming out fairly soon then Id buy a kit..Decisions, decisions.

Anyhoo here are the current upgrades to my GT-
CF Rear Shock Tower
RPM Bulkhead (blue)
Dirt Hawg ll's and Speed Hawg tires
Proline GMC Sierra Body (not an upgrade but who cares)
Futaba 3PM Radio
Hitec HS645MG Steering Servo (I highly recommend it)
Hitec HS625MG Throttle Servo (Highly Recommend it)
RRP Metal Spur w/rrp clutch bell (67t spur I think)
Blue O'Donnel/Factory Team Cooling Head
Red Springs in the rear and Green springs in the front
Bump Stops for the shocks made out of fuel tubing

And thats all I can think of for now. If I do sell it and buy a Factory Team GT I am going to keep the good radio system, cooling head, onroad tires, springs, spur, and rpm bulkhead. I might sell it to a 6th grader in my neighborhood rtr for like $170 or so. Which I think is a good deal considering it has a brand new ae .15 with only 3 tanks through it. He will live with a plastic spur gear, offroad tires, the stock cooling head, springs, and bulkhead though :D

And if I do get a FT GT I plan on getting RPM front and rear arms, RPM RX Box, RPM Body posts, RPM Ball cups, proline paddles, dirt hawg ll's again, and I am undecided on an engine at the moment. I am thinking something with a little more oomph then an os .15 cvr. I think an Epic 18 should do it...Hehe.

[rocknbil]

What does "coreless" mean regarding a servo?

Brushless is a different technology that creates the alternating current used by DC motors externally - without brushes. Coreless is different than brushless. Coreless have super fine copper contacts for brushes, usually at the bottom of the servo.

The finer differences between a standard servo and a coreless are many technical things I can't remember :D ) but the key thing is that a "cored" motor is like our electric class motors, it has an armature and a winding. Coreless motors do not have an armature, they have only the windings, which look rather like a woven basket (sometimes called "basket wound.") This gives them less rotational mass, so they can react to changes much faster - every FAST servo will be a coreless one. There are other technical things, but they are faster, stronger, and MUCH more durable and reliable in comparison to a standard arm-wound motor, and have a tendency to not strip gears as often but are every bit as strong as equally rated standard servos.

< / intro to coreless 101>

[LearjetMinako]

Thanks for filling us in about the "Coreless" tech. It was starting to give me a real headache from trying to find info. Atleast my mind will be at ease and I can get some sleep, since you explained Rocknbil about the coreless tech and it makes since.

About the other post that I made about the TC3, my bad. Lost myself once again in deep thoughts and typed it into the wrong fourm. Oh well. :D

[doesgo]

Yeah thanks a lot, great info!

[LearjetMinako]

:confused: I've seem to come across a problem when trying to adjust my front chamber links. I've found that the chamber links are too long to allow the wheels to go below -2 degrees. Would RPM's ball cups might solve this problem (going to need them any how since I already broke the stock one and non to replace it). Or do I have to cut a 1mm off each end of the link to make it work. I would hate to do that since they are Ti turnbuckles and are nice FT blue. :( .

I was also wondering if the RPM's toe gauge is useful enough to buy. Right now I use a dial calribre (some priese tool to measure down to .001 of an inch).

[fuzzy2133]

Learjet Minako - a tool that measures down to 0.001 of an inch is overboard. the RPM toe in guage is great. another thing to get are some rims that you will not mount tires on to be used as set up wheels. if you need more camber look and see if there are some shorter turnbuckles to use before cutting the current ones down.

[LearjetMinako]

New ball cups and the problem seemed to go away. The new RPM ball cups were a bit of a pain at first. Tried to adjust them and they would pop off. So I drilled a little bit bigger hole to get rid of the hard sqeeze on the turnbuckles. Now they work. I was able to get down to -3 degree chamber on each wheel, but after a little talk w/ the LHS owner. He recommended that I didn't use that much. More like around -1 to 3 degree chamber, so I zero-ed it out for now. Also got the RPM toe gauge. Bit confussing at first trying to set it up, but once learned, its easy to use. Now I have the toe set from 2 toe-out to 2 toe-in. I also already have the RPM chamber gauge as well, had it for a while, extremely useful tool.

As for the tool that I use to measure down to the .001 inch. Its mainly for the TC3 where every .01 inch needs to be measured. The car becomes twichey if something isn't measured right.

All in all, I'm happy now. Didn't have to cut the turnbuckles down to size, thank goodness. Now its down to practice, adjust, more practice, more adjustments, and then race (maybe Saturady if the weather holds). :D :cool:

[dog8spam]

Does anyone else have problems with clutch bearings? I keep blowing them out (even with three) and was wondering what disadvantages bushings would have.

[doesgo]

Do you have a standard bell/spur or a steel setup?

[Fantom 15 gt]

First I would replace the clutch nut. See how you go then.

[Polk]

Does anyone else have problems with clutch bearings? I keep blowing them out (even with three) and was wondering what disadvantages bushings would have.


Oh Yes Im with you on that one man, only way Ive found to fix it is to buy more bearings.. :o

[Fantom 15 gt]

Make sure you engine's crank shaft is not bent and the engine crank bearings are good, check your topshaft to see if is bent, check bearings in the tranny for play, when assemled see if you can wobble your topshaft, make sure your gear mesh is perfect, check your tranny case for wear and see if spur is not out of alignment.

Hope this helps

[Krasi_5000]

hey guys,
it seems i will prolly be getting a barnd spanking new rc10gt+ soon and i would just liek to know some things...
will it pull wheelies stock with the ae .15?
what is the first upgrade i should get? i was thinking reciver box since its exposed stock?
anything i should know about it or anything good i shall know?

ohh one more...what would win in lets say a savage 25 and a gt with a .15?
and how bout gt vs a touring car lol just for fun.

[Krasi_5000]

oops and i forgot...what online hobby shop has the rc10gt+ for the lowest price and ships to canada?

[dog8spam]

My topshaft has been bent for at least a year now, I never replaced it because it still worked. I think Im going to try that. Also Ive had my clutchbell for so long (since about '98) the teeth are actually worn down, and I only use plastic spurs. On one side of each tooth it looks like someone filed the side down to make it thinner.

Krasi-
The GT will pull wheelies stock with the restrictor removed if you have traction. Ive even pulled wheelies with old .12s before with my grass tires.
I wouldnt get a reciever box, I had one but am now getting rid of it. Its big, bulky, and gets in the way of everything. Some people heat shrink it, Ive been looking for some good heatshrink and will tell you when I find some if you want.
First upgrade definately new clutch, and I would make the front shocks trailing.

[LearjetMinako]

Krasi:
The GT is a great 2wd nitro truck. I not too sure if it can do wheelies, but w/ a good engine and going down a rough course, it will certainly try to do them. A reciever box is a good idea, I know it is for me at least, beacause in a race, the pit guy doesn't really pay much attention to a full tank and spills fuel everywhere. But that is up to you, RPM's receiver box does fine. A starter box is a very nice thing to have. No more pulling on cords and getting a yo-yo arm. I would recommend the starter box beening the first upgrade.

As for the GT vs Savage 25 & Touring Car. I would say the GT will come out on top. I've ran laps around a Savage 25 and a TC3 w/ a Novak 5800 on a dirt oval was able to keep up. But endurance won the race against the TC3. TC3 lasted about 5mins while the GT lasted a little over 6min.

Ever tried Tower Hobbies (http://www.towerhobbies.com) .com . I believe they also ship to Canada.

[Krasi_5000]

what does making the front shocks trailing mean?

[Krasi_5000]

i alrady have a ntc3 so i have a box its just set up for the ntc3. And for the races i was talking a nitro tc3 hehe like if i drove gt and dad drove ntc3 who'd come out on top?
Tower was the place were i was thinking of ordering cause they are tried and proven thats were i got my ntc3 and stuff for it later on...if i buy it from a LHS it seems it will be about 30USD more expensive than tower.
I like the idea of beating mt's though hehe

[rc10racer92]

is the rc 10 gt plus a good truck oris it bad?

[LearjetMinako]

A RC10GT vs NTC3, hmmm, tuff call. My bet is on the NTC3. I've seen both Factory Team & RTR NTC3 run before. The FT had more punch because of the 2-speed tranny. Sorry, the NTC3 is just too hot to be beaten by a truck. Maybe the RTR NTC3 vs. RC10GT, that match might be something. :D

[Krasi_5000]

i guess i will find out soon. I said ntc3 cause i have one and i can try but its tricked out so i dont think gt will stand a chance, 2 speed, os .12 tr rear exhaust its pretty dam fast but my friend has a slow pokey rs4-3 which im SURE the gt will beat and this other guy has a streetforce which i also think i can take.

I read in the first pages here that you can use a SG crank on the GT? Anyone mind giving me a link or details about how?

[rocknbil]

Yeas the .15 will do wheelies. :rolleyes: Lock down the slipper clutch, eventually it can tear up your tranny. Be sure to keep the diff bolt tight.

I don't run with a receiver box, unless you're going through mud puddles you probably won't need one, there are other "firsts" you should consider.

As I recall, the Plus has dogbones, get some MIP CVD's. Although I've never had prob's with the stock clutch, ran it for years, everone says you need the MIP, we're running them on ours and don't seem to have any problems. Spare RX packs are nice, 5-cells, and a good thing to have on hand are spare motor mount screws, the ones that go through the bottom of the chassis. They're a little larger than the 440 variations everyone has, and are seldom lost, but just in case.

Get some spare spurs and a few clutchbells. All of the above is available on eBay or through RCBoyz.

If you have a starter box, the MIP light flywheel seems to work well.

One of the GREAT things about the GT - it is VERY responsive to slight changes in the suspension. A full set of front and rear springs is a definate must-have, play around with the different tensions on different surfaces.

The TC3 will kill a GT on pavement with the same engine. It's designed for it. It's an apples and oranges question.

[doesgo]

Don't forget to keep a few clutch bell bearings on hand!

[Krasi_5000]

thanks for all the input guys! I wasnt talking about the wheelies as somethign i would always be doing i was jsut asking if it CAN. Sounds to me like i gotta load up on spares hehe im kinda on limited cash right now so i probably wont be stocking up too much and anyway i have a few LHS's(3) within a 30 min drive.
Hopefully whis weekend i will get one!

[dog8spam]

Has anyone here with the Creschenzi brake syst bent topshafts before? I have the Creschenzi and noticed that when I pull the brakes the whole chassis flexes enough to change the gear mesh. I think thats what bent my topshaft so I am going back to the stock system.

[nitro_newbie]

will some one tell me wich truk would be good to start of with a losi xxx-nt sport or rc10gt email me as soon as possibel

[LearjetMinako]

Well, after 6 hours at the track. I finally got the GT at a decent set-up. I was mainly at the track to get the TC3 set-up right, but the GT was too much fun and I couldn't turn away. The set-up is bit odd but it works for the track. +2 front chamber and -1 rear chamber. Tires, front: Pro-line Edge, Rear: Pro-line Hole Shot. By the end of the day, the rear Hole Shot tires needed to be replaced. The little studs were worn out to the tire. And top of all things. A big family came on down to drive around at the track. But none of them remembered to charge up their glow ignitors. So I was lending out 1, 2, and the third glow ignitors that I had. The first two went dead before they left, but thank goodness that the last one had some juice left to get me through the rest of the day. The kids were nice and respected me very well, "thank you", "can I borrow", they asked first before using my stuff. And for that, I let them use any of my equipment. It seemed today that I was the tool man for the track, didn't mind. But now the day has ended, and I'm tried out to the bone. I had fun, nothing broke, had to remove the VSM and put the Temp guage in its place. The VSM kept falling apart and the burnt CD mount that I made for the Temp Gauge broke. The Temp Gauge was more important than the VSM, so I switched the two. I guess, I wrote enough, so I'll let it be. Maybe tomorrow, I'll race at 7:00PM. Don't know yet. :D :D :D :cool:

[rocknbil]

nitro newbie: you are in the AE GT forum. What do you think? GT all the way baby. :D

[bassist 281]

i already have a t-maxx and a mini-t and i want a nitro stadium truck....i want a rc10gt but i was wondering if i should get a kit or rtr

[dog8spam]

Get the kit if you have the money, you can go ahead and get the motor and radio you want and also get a starter box with out buying new parts.

NitroNewbie I would definately go with the GT, it is much tougher than the XXXNT and you, being new, may the extra strength.

I dont get to go to the track much, usually I just get all my friends to bring thier cars to my house and run them around. Today someone came up with the idea to play 'tag' with the cars, that was a blast. The GT was nice, when someone was going to catch me Id just head straight back at them and force them to turn before thier car got smashed.

[LearjetMinako]

I would say, "Go with the rc10GT". I have gone through the same process of deciding of which of the two I should get. The XXX-NT or the RC10GT. The XXX-NT was more laid out in design but made it harder to clean than the GT. Also the XXX-NT was more up to date w/ tech. but the GT outlasted the tech.. Team Assocaited did something right to have a proven design work for ,what, over 10 years and counting. Plus the fact, the GT had designs from the T, T2, and a little from the T3. The T3 was the first R/C truck I got. And I really bashed it into the ground where parts should have broke. Not one part broke until this spring when a survariors marker broke the front arm, and that was after 7 years. :eek: . Plus the GT and the XXX-NT was close in a race. But because of me being w/ AE for soo long, that I choose the GT over the XXX-NT.

As for kit or rtr. Go kit, if you can afford the budget to get an engine and radio. I know I wasn't disoppented when I bought everything that I wanted for it and didn't compormise.

Didn't get to race this Saturday. Bad weather held me off, plus dead batteries and worn out tires. Got a new set of Hole Shots, only tire that worked out on the blue groove track. Maybe the next Saturday after this Saturday that is when I will race. Can't this Sat., BIG race coming. I like the local comps. better. :p

[GT Freak]

i have a nds im thinking of turning into a gt, but need to know how to gear it :confused: any ideas??

[dog8spam]

I think the NDS has the same tranny as the GT, mabey just a smaller diff.

[Breakin2]

I'm building the shocks now and one of the four isn't sliding in and out as easily as the others. When I went to bleed it, it was so difficult to push it up that when I finally did, it was with such force that it sent oil flying. I took it back apart and rebuilt it with different pieces, but it was still harder to push it up and down than the others.

What can I do about this?

[surfer]

i found a yellow DeCour paint marker so i got a little creative with it

and yes if you notice, those are original GT shocktowers, what can i say? They the strongest things ever, theyve lasted 10 years ;)

the 1st pic was just to show the outline of the yellow...the dark purple lines are the yellow trim ;)

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v257/humprnr/DSC04311.jpg
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v257/humprnr/IMG_0150.jpg
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v257/humprnr/IMG_0147.jpg
http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v257/humprnr/DSC04294.jpg

hope you guys like it ;)

[bizaare69]

I KNow its probly been asked many times before but i cant seem to find it in the forums. ill make it simple. Is there a 2 speed for a RC10GT. sorry to those who get angry and any replie would help. thnx

[LearjetMinako]

Currently, I think there are none produced for the rc10GT. And I did a little search a while back to see if they even existed, but didn't. But it is possible to install a 2-speed. My friend, back in High School (I graduted this year), had a rc10GT w/ a 2-speed installed on it. He had to take bits and pieces of other 2-speeds to make it work. HPI use to sell on for the T, T2, series but disconituined it. That one might have worked. :(

[doesgo]

The Rock down in Cozumel adapted a Schumacher 3-speed to his RC10GT, but like Learjet said, there's no simple bolt-in 2-speed.

[bizaare69]

thnx np i was just wondering cause i just got a rc10gt i need some help though cause the pull start cord is broken and im gonna get a new cord but i need to know how to put it back together cause it was taken apart when i got it. all i need to know does the coil face towards or away from the motor?

[doesgo]

I know this doesn't answer your question whatsoever, but do yourself a favor....buy a starter box! Pullstarters are the devil's handiwork...pure evil! :(

[offroadcrazy01]

He's right pure evil,if you want to enjoy your truck more with less trouble a starter box will ease some of the pain of this is wrong that is wrong starting up the number 1 thing it has to start in order to have fun with it

[bizaare69]

ya i know but do i need to put the pull start cover on though??? and just take the string out. and buy a starter box anyway... and what if i need to use the pull start in some case i donno how much is a cheap starter box???? maybe a dynamite on if they make them

[doesgo]

It's better, in my opinion, to run with the pullstart housing installed, but remove the one-way if it's external to reduce the slight amount of drag it adds. Worst case just run it totally stock but without the string. Wouldn't hurt to plug the string hole with RTV, but I'm not sure it's totally necessary.

A cheap starter box is about $50, I believe. You can use a pair of 6-cell stick packs to power it, but a better alternative is a 12-volt gel cell. That's another $20-$25 (with charger), unfortunately. I've had my cheapie Dynamite starter box for nearly two years and it still works great.

[bizaare69]

I wont be able to afford a extra $100 for a starter box cause its $100 canadian and i need to buy other stuff like a new glow plug ignitor and fuel. the pull start cord is broken a bit but its still pretty long could i reattach the cord and still use it that way? ill measure it too let u guys know how long it is.
it is 1' 11"so pretty much 2 feet will that do. is there a special way to wind it up do i stick the metal part of the coil facing the engine and put the shaft through the centre?

[bizaare69]

well after further review it seems the starting axle does not have the hexagon shape and i dont have that piece so i. guess ill have to get a starter box sooner or l8er i was gonna get one anyway i just wanted to drive the truck already.

[offroadcrazy01]

Is anybody here going to race the shoot out at www.hotrodhobbies.com

[rocknbil]

bizarre - pull starts CAN be repaired, and sometimes by just bending this or tweaking that. Go to hpiracing.com and look at their pull-start how-to, it's different than yours but still similar enough so you should be able to figure out how to fix it.

The starting axle should be a smooth shaft. It goes into the one-way bearing in the P/S unit, which, as its name describes, will only grip the shaft when turned one way, and spin freely when the engine is running.

Also you don't need a "new" box. Visit eBay and look for any universal box (the slot in the top is like an "L" so you can turn the motor any direction.) Everyone rants and raves about how the single-motor ones are better. I've had both, and they are really not. :D The dual motor ones work just fine, I sold my single to 'Becca and use the dualie. Plus if the motors go bad - you can swap them out for a couple 19T mods. You can probably pick up a starter box for under $50. Usually you'll have to go through a used one - replace the wires, re-grease the switches, etc - but it's pretty easy.

[bizaare69]

ya i found a chart at associateds site and my pull start has a shaft but no hex peice at the end?? ill send the link u need acrobat reader though Pull start configuration (http://www.teamassociated.com/basicshub/troubleshooting/pullstart2.PDF) i cant really get off ebay cause i dont have a credit card and i cant use my parents and im in canada which shipping is outrageous sometimes. i donno i fell better with something new

[Toyotatogo]

Info and Pics

http://www.nitroreview.com/reviews/viewreview.cfm?reviewid=624

[Toyotatogo]

The Rock down in Cozumel adapted a Schumacher 3-speed to his RC10GT, but like Learjet said, there's no simple bolt-in 2-speed.

Is that really possible, if so could you provide more information please?

[Budman_222]

Is that really possible, if so could you provide more information please?




Uh Oh. :D You're gonna need a third channel for a parachute, Toyota.

[Toyotatogo]

droooool ... :eek: A 3-Speed Tranny on the truck I have now would be sooo insane.

[LearjetMinako]

uhhh, I can see how a 2-speed would help for power and top-speed. But a 3-speed tranny, isn't that a bit much. Maybe the third gear is overdrive to save fuel or pull high-way speeds. :D .

As for the parachute, do not use one, let it roll to a stop. I've tried that idea on my NMT, it will work, but the car will become air-born. Used a portable umprallia. Car will go from top-speed to nothing, by the time you just figured out where the car went. :eek:

[fuzzy2133]

a 3 speed would makes things more lively. would the body still fit?

[bizaare69]

I found the little hex piece on the starting axle for my pull start. so i installed everything the cord is a bit short but dats ok. now i just need fuel and an ignitor to get rollin but i need to wait till thursday cause im workin till then but i leave on fri to go to ontario for a month ill prob take it with me...

[rc10gtroller]

Which motor would you choose for a Ft GT?

Sirio .12 evo 2, 3port

Team Orion wasp .12 roar

I dont want any other opinions on motors just these two please.

[doesgo]

Is that really possible, if so could you provide more information please?
You can find The Rock (or you used to be able to, he's been absent for a while) on the Schumacher Menace forum here at RCZone. Here's a page that shows a pic of his 3-speed GT.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135020&page=7&pp=25

[Fantom 15 gt]

There is some info on it also here (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=128198&perpage=25&pagenumber=35) .

[rocknbil]

Toyota needs to stop messing around and just strap some Estes rockets on that puppy. :D

[fuzzy2133]

I would go with a jet turbine so he can say his is jet powered. :cool:

looks like 90% of the back end on that GT is Schumacher parts.

[powerstroke01]

Bought a GT on eBay.. THoughts? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5905673395

[doesgo]

Holy cow, that's a FANTASTIC deal!

[LearjetMinako]

yep, lets send the GT to the moon. Or how about breaking the sound barrier. :D Either way, if you want something to go faster, strap a rocket to it, and pray that it don't blow up.

Is there a such thing as "overkill" in this hobby. Or is that lango for "look under my GT tires, that is where you'll find yourself". :p

Gotta love this hobby.

[fuzzy2133]

R/C overkill - 1. when torque bends the chassis in on it's self with one pull of the trigger. 2. when you hit a solid object and nothing is left just dust.

other than those 2 no just needs more power.

powerstroke01 - very nice buy.

[LearjetMinako]

I guess those could be other defenitions for "overkill". I my world, there is no such thing as too much torque, just too much horsepower. :D

powerstorke1: Very nice catch that you got off of E-Bay. Makes me a bit jealous, but I still can keep on smiling.

And could somebody, please, please, stop this rain here in Oklahoma. Its starting to drive me insane. I need a Mini-T to drive indoors. If I don't get to drive any one of my R/C's soon, I think I'll crack. Being indoors all day, waiting for hiring jobs calls, really suck!!! I'm ready & willing to work, thats if somebody would hire me. Ah man, at least on Friday I can let loose and tear up the track. ;)

[Breakin2]

OK, I just finished my Factory Team Kit and it all came out very well, except for one problem I hope you all can help me with. When I turn to steer left, it does and returns back to the normal position when I stop turning. However, when I turn right, the car stays turned right until I turn it left again. How can I fix that?
Thanks.

[rocknbil]

powerstroke - except for the "brand new" part, that is almost my EXACT GT! :D Down to the .12 picco. You are just going to effing LOVE that engine. :D

Breakin2 - temporarily disconnect the servo arm from the servo and thoroughly check out the steering linkage to see if it's all free and loosey-goosey, there should be no binding at all. If it's only a little snug at the ball ends because it's new, don't worry about it, it will loosen up very quickly. Also make sure the servo saver thumbwheel is tightened down fairly snug, it could just be opening up when you turn to that side. Other than that - what steering servo have you got? Maybe it's too weak?

[Breakin2]

Thanks for the advice. I'll check into that. The servo itself shouldn't be bad. It's a Hitec 654 MG. It might just be a little binded, like you said.

[powerstroke01]

powerstroke - except for the "brand new" part, that is almost my EXACT GT! :D Down to the .12 picco. You are just going to effing LOVE that engine. :D

Breakin2 - temporarily disconnect the servo arm from the servo and thoroughly check out the steering linkage to see if it's all free and loosey-goosey, there should be no binding at all. If it's only a little snug at the ball ends because it's new, don't worry about it, it will loosen up very quickly. Also make sure the servo saver thumbwheel is tightened down fairly snug, it could just be opening up when you turn to that side. Other than that - what steering servo have you got? Maybe it's too weak?
Sweet! I thought i had read somewhere on here that you had that engine.. Can you give me some breakin tips for it? What would that engine cost new? Now i just need to find a starter box.. lol

[rocknbil]

Well I've only had two brand new engines in my life and have burned in a lot of new piston/sleeve sets, but I bought my Picco used off ebay for $60 and it was (and still is) in GREAT condition.

Break-in methods are a topic of great debate, everyone has a different method but they all lead to one thing: a period of gentle running to polish the parts to a perfect fit and a period of expansion and contraction to get the metals to settle in to what they're going to be running at. How you arrive at this is a matter of preference.

One thing I recommend against is the "tank of gas at idle" method. This is only good as a break-in if you're going to run your truck at idle. :D The O.S. engines method is pretty solid - run it as rich as possible, and for the first tank they even say so rich that you have to leave the glow start on for the first tank. Get it started, get it on the ground and get it under load right away - begin putting it around at NO MORE than 1/4 throttle for the first tank. Let it cool, restart it, lean it out ever so slightly, run it again. On the third tank, begin giving slight and gentle jabs up to almost half-throttle. Continue this process for 5-8 tanks of gas (the more the better,) cooling between each tank, slightly leaning out each time and gently increasing the throttle bursts to as much as 3/4 throttle toward the end of the break-in period.

While this is all going on, it's important to get it up to running temp. If you have a temp gauge, this is anywhere from 200º-225º for a break-in. My Picco kicks patiootie at 220º so it seems to be a cool-running engine. The point is, you have to get that temp up, and cooled down between runs to go through the heat cycling. If it's not getting to temp, lean it out a tad so it does. The Picco seems to be a VERY sensitive engine to tune, it only takes 1 or 2 degrees sometimes to make a big difference.

If you don't have a temp gauge, water boils at 212º. Drop a dime-sized drop of water on the head when it's at temp, it should boil off in 3-5 seconds. If it dances and sizzles like a fried egg, it's too hot.

[powerstroke01]

Well I've only had two brand new engines in my life and have burned in a lot of new piston/sleeve sets, but I bought my Picco used off ebay for $60 and it was (and still is) in GREAT condition.

Break-in methods are a topic of great debate, everyone has a different method but they all lead to one thing: a period of gentle running to polish the parts to a perfect fit and a period of expansion and contraction to get the metals to settle in to what they're going to be running at. How you arrive at this is a matter of preference.

One thing I recommend against is the "tank of gas at idle" method. This is only good as a break-in if you're going to run your truck at idle. :D The O.S. engines method is pretty solid - run it as rich as possible, and for the first tank they even say so rich that you have to leave the glow start on for the first tank. Get it started, get it on the ground and get it under load right away - begin putting it around at NO MORE than 1/4 throttle for the first tank. Let it cool, restart it, lean it out ever so slightly, run it again. On the third tank, begin giving slight and gentle jabs up to almost half-throttle. Continue this process for 5-8 tanks of gas (the more the better,) cooling between each tank, slightly leaning out each time and gently increasing the throttle bursts to as much as 3/4 throttle toward the end of the break-in period.

While this is all going on, it's important to get it up to running temp. If you have a temp gauge, this is anywhere from 200º-225º for a break-in. My Picco kicks patiootie at 220º so it seems to be a cool-running engine. The point is, you have to get that temp up, and cooled down between runs to go through the heat cycling. If it's not getting to temp, lean it out a tad so it does. The Picco seems to be a VERY sensitive engine to tune, it only takes 1 or 2 degrees sometimes to make a big difference.

If you don't have a temp gauge, water boils at 212º. Drop a dime-sized drop of water on the head when it's at temp, it should boil off in 3-5 seconds. If it dances and sizzles like a fried egg, it's too hot.
THanks for the tips.. Thats pretty much the same way i broke in my XTM 24.7 motor.. So im familiar with that method..

[doesgo]

Don't forget, ALWAYS move the piston to the bottom of its stroke after you shut it off! If you don't, the sleeve can't contract normally as it cools.

[LearjetMinako]

200* to 225* degrees. I know when I race, those temps are not touched. My O.S. likes to hang around 250* to 270* degrees. And has only seen above 300* degrees once (very technical course, no long straights). I try to do my best to keep it at 250* degrees.

Ya, those temp gauges is a must have tool. I can't really race w/o them. :cool:

[powerstroke01]

Well I've only had two brand new engines in my life and have burned in a lot of new piston/sleeve sets, but I bought my Picco used off ebay for $60 and it was (and still is) in GREAT condition.

Break-in methods are a topic of great debate, everyone has a different method but they all lead to one thing: a period of gentle running to polish the parts to a perfect fit and a period of expansion and contraction to get the metals to settle in to what they're going to be running at. How you arrive at this is a matter of preference.

One thing I recommend against is the "tank of gas at idle" method. This is only good as a break-in if you're going to run your truck at idle. :D The O.S. engines method is pretty solid - run it as rich as possible, and for the first tank they even say so rich that you have to leave the glow start on for the first tank. Get it started, get it on the ground and get it under load right away - begin putting it around at NO MORE than 1/4 throttle for the first tank. Let it cool, restart it, lean it out ever so slightly, run it again. On the third tank, begin giving slight and gentle jabs up to almost half-throttle. Continue this process for 5-8 tanks of gas (the more the better,) cooling between each tank, slightly leaning out each time and gently increasing the throttle bursts to as much as 3/4 throttle toward the end of the break-in period.

While this is all going on, it's important to get it up to running temp. If you have a temp gauge, this is anywhere from 200º-225º for a break-in. My Picco kicks patiootie at 220º so it seems to be a cool-running engine. The point is, you have to get that temp up, and cooled down between runs to go through the heat cycling. If it's not getting to temp, lean it out a tad so it does. The Picco seems to be a VERY sensitive engine to tune, it only takes 1 or 2 degrees sometimes to make a big difference.

If you don't have a temp gauge, water boils at 212º. Drop a dime-sized drop of water on the head when it's at temp, it should boil off in 3-5 seconds. If it dances and sizzles like a fried egg, it's too hot.
Another question is what plug for this motor?

[rocknbil]

Learjet, the temperature reference was in the context of getting it broken in, it is indeed possible to break in an engine under 200º and this is not good. I have 4 OS -CV's and they run like a top at an average of 225º-230º, lean as they need to be. Any more and they start to detonate (ping-ping-ping YIKES!!!!) **shrug** The Picco tends to run cooler, some days I have to really push it to get it up to 225º.

Umm . . plugs . . . .yeah . . . well there are LOTS of Piccos, check your manual. I usually use an OS 8 or A3 (http://www.osengines.com/accys/glowplugs.html), an McCoy MC-59 or #8, or when I can't find anything else a Fox 1.5V gold long. My head runs a LONG plug OK, yours may not (but probably does.)

Generally, for 20% nitro, a medium to cool plug is OK. Hotter plug = advanced timing, also higher nitro requires a cooler plug, with 20% nitro, medium to cool is OK. Only use hot plugs for 10% or less nitro.

[LearjetMinako]

Try an O.S. A3 plug and watch the temps climb as you tune it in. :rolleyes:, pass. The nitro car engine is a bit new trend to me. Sorry, I learned how to fly before learning how to drive. :p . The A3 is too hot of a plug for me, I only recommend that plug if get abondent air flow (like flying planes). I already find the #8 plug still a bit hot. I might actually a A5 or R5.

For me on plug knowledge. The hotter the plug, the less fuel allowed, the hotter the engine will run. The colder the plug, more fuel allowed, the cooler the engine will run.

Just gotta find the right plug for the applaction

As for nitro % on plugs, I can't quite remember how that went. I just remember about nitro % will be required for what kinda of manuvers that will be pulled by the pilot that will determine the nitro %. But I believe you right about a lower nitro% will require a hotter and visa versa. Because of the lower nitro % contant will make the fuel a cold runner instead of buring hotter.

If I stepped on too many feet, sorry. Don't want to start a war. ;)

[powerstroke01]

So uh.. why do we call them plugs?

What are we trying to plug? Keep something in?

lol

[LearjetMinako]

Sorry, habit in the automotive in the shop. Instead of yelling for "spark plugs", we just say "hand me those plugs". But I guess we could be plugging up something, maybe the hole on top of the cooling head. Meant to say "glow plugs". Sorry if I caused anybody a headache.

[rocknbil]

....As for nitro % on plugs, I can't quite remember how that went...

A-5, I meant A-5.

I screwed up the link, there are many of them but stumbled across this one on MaxxTraxx:
http://www.maxxtraxxusa.com/Glow_Plugs___It_s_gettin__hot_in_herre_.cfm

Anyway hotter plug is not a problem untill you go above 20% nitro, then you should be using medium to cold.

One of the advantages of running on the warm side of a plug is it allows you to run a little richer and not douse out the flame at idle.

[Toyotatogo]

66 Miles Per Hour !!!!!

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162811&page=5&pp=25

She's still accelerating !!!!! :D

[Toyotatogo]

Okay maybe I got a little too excited there ... :o

[offroadcrazy01]

My first big race is next weekend any body got any tips for me is's the hotrodhobbie shoot-out in socal

[powerstroke01]

Sorry, habit in the automotive in the shop. Instead of yelling for "spark plugs", we just say "hand me those plugs". But I guess we could be plugging up something, maybe the hole on top of the cooling head. Meant to say "glow plugs". Sorry if I caused anybody a headache.
Lol no i call em the same thing.. It was just a joke question.. lol

[Fantom 15 gt]

Hello, Here's (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172504) a coupple pics of my RB v15T powerd GT.

[Strike 4]

Lets get this forum moving! POST PICS OF YOUR GT'S! Nudies prefered. I can't post mine now since I cant save in JPEG on this comp for some reason :mad: . I may try to get someone to post them for me...

[RCHavok797]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p2e00f60f6e380c56b674e25d2cd5dee5/fc019757.jpg

[Polk]

Here we go, this thread has died a bit recently...:p

Ran my GT for the first time in two months today cause I dislocated my thumb and have been in a cast :o! Went half an hour before I broke it :D....

[Strike 4]

Dang klop how do you keep that car so clean?

[LearjetMinako]

My GT has been evloving from the first time I showed it here on the board. Just little things to improve performance, durablity, endurance. :D

[LearjetMinako]

And heres a shot of my first try at a flame job for the body. Didn't come out too bad, but not the why I wanted. Next body, I'll paint after my Ford Ranger. White w/ gray flares running down the side.

[dog8spam]

My duct tape body... Its not as good as the duct tape body I made for my Legends because all the irregular humps and large holes and cracks made it harder to lay out the duct tape. Also flames the flames took way too long and I just wanted to get this one done.

[rocknbil]

LOL dog8 that totally kicks ass! LOL!!!

I'll bet it's killer strong too!

[Strike 4]

Lol duct tape rooz!

Here is my current GT I am bashing with...

[Strike 4]

GT im racing with...

[Budman_222]

Has the street tires on it right now.

[offroadcrazy01]

Well guys I'm back for the shoot-out at hotrods it was crazy five hour wait in between two my qualifers for two days,Did'nt do that well in the qualifers so I got but in the c-man and WOn it !!!,they bumped me up to the b-main I poped a shock top and that was that 3 three long days of racing it was alot diffrent then a club race because you did'nt have time to tune your engine before you raced had to tune it on the table and you got two minutes of run time before your race but it was fun :D

[KanaiDude]

Hey Guys any recomendations on how tight to set the inside ball diff? right now mine spins with almost no resistance, I should tighten it a little bit? I am thinking that if it is to loose the diff will unload and spin the truck a little bit? I am looking for any recomendations on the diff tightness if possible. Once I get the diff right I should tighten up the slipper almost all the way as well???

Thanks!!!

[doesgo]

Well, it ain't nekkid, but here's my GT in action this past Saturday at my local track. I took 2nd in qualifying, but blew the tranny about five minutes into the A-Main, which ended my day. :(

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/gt1race3.jpg

[rocknbil]

Doesgo - crap happens. Cool pic but it looks to me like it's rolling a bit too much, might try one step stiffer springs up front. When it pitches over like that you lose a little traction on the inside rear. Sorry, couldn't help myself. :D

Hey Guys any recomendations on how tight to set the inside ball diff? Once I get the diff right I should tighten up the slipper almost all the way as well???

The correct way to tighten any AE diff is to get it as tight as you can witohut braking the bolt or your allen wrench, then back off 1/8 turn. Perfect.


There are two basic tests to see where you're at. First, holding the truck in the air and holding the spur so it can't move, turn one wheel:

- If the opposite wheel's not moving - could be more serious than an adjustment, it's REALLY loose, try adjustment below and see what it does.

- If you release the spur and the opposite wheel is moving in the same direction - this is not good, you probably have diff balls melted into the diff gear and a rebuild is in order. This happens because it gets loose and the balls slip on the diff rings, causing friction/heat.

- If the opposite wheel spins in the opposite direction, no resistance, no gritty feel, smooth as your firstborn's behind, then welcome to the Stealth, this is good! :D

Second test is for slip. Hold BOTH the spur and one wheel. Now try to turn the third wheel and watch the topshaft for movement as you do this test. If you can turn the second wheel pretty easily and the topshaft doesn't move, your diff is still too loose. If it's really hard to turn or the center of the topshaft begins to move (telling you the slipper is slipping BEFORE the tranny) you are OK. You should perform this test every time you adjust the slipper.

Your slipper clutch adjustment should be done on the surface you're running on. It's also called a "traction control device" for a reason. :D The idea is to get all the power to the wheels you can without the wheels spinning.

(If you're a wheelie-monkey go ahead and lock it down all the way and ignore the rest of this. :D )

I generally set my slipper so if I set it on the ground and nail it full throttle, it will slip for 10-20 feet MAX and then engage fully. You can tell when it's fully engaged, and this is ALWAYS going to vary depending on the traction conditons (i.e., sometimes 20 feet is not enough to get up to full speed.)

Because the slipper is so closely tied to each person's driving style, a good rule of thumb is to lock it down tighter than you need it to be and get out on the track and run it. If you feel like you have to "baby it" to get out of corners without spinning out, loosen it up a little until it feels like it's doing just what you want it to, until it goes in and out of almost every corner without spinning out.

[LearjetMinako]

doesgo: Awsome shot of your GT :eek: :eek: :D :cool: . Gotta love that kind of action. And I'm also jealous. If that is your LHS track, I need to head your way. All the LHS track around me believe in Blue groove type tracks. Very hard, very compact (compressed dirt), very very dustey. Tires wear quickly, and its not as fun because of the way the truck has no traction. Loose dirt, NOW THATS OFF-ROADING. :D

[doesgo]

Doesgo - crap happens. Cool pic but it looks to me like it's rolling a bit too much, might try one step stiffer springs up front. When it pitches over like that you lose a little traction on the inside rear. Sorry, couldn't help myself. :D
It's cool, I'll take all the advice I can get! Thanks.

And yeah, crap happens. No big deal. I took 2nd in 1/8-Scale Buggy Sportsman A-Main, so all wasn't lost! :)

[doesgo]

Yep, that's my track, LearjetMinako! About 15 miles from my house. :) Check out www.fiskhobbyfarm.com for more info, and watch the Rabid and Storm videos at www.slapmafro.com. We filmed them at that same track. Actually Skinny from R/C Car magazine came out to the first event of the year and loved it, and Paul Coleman might stop by in September as well. That'd be fun.

No blue groove there, it's in sand country! It has its advantages, but when it's dry it sure is loose. Makes for a good time, though. Probably saves lots of damage, or at least lets us get more air before the damage occurs! From what I've seen of the hard-packed tracks, I'll take ours any day.

[LearjetMinako]

Wwwaaayyyy head of you. Already checking out the site and watching the video. :D :D

[KanaiDude]

Rocknbil thank you very much as usual! Have you ever experienced the diff being to loose and spinning out? I think I am in the general ballpark of how it is suposed to be but I do get some spinout issues exiting and entering corners and was wondering if this could be from the diff being to loose? or if it is just my setup and driving :confused: I have adjusted the slipper to help this but I think it is more of a diff issue.

[rocknbil]

No that's seldom a diff issue UNLESS you've got the diff balls melted into the diff gear. Normally that's the whole idea of a diff - the outside wheel rolls faster than the inside, keeping you form losing traction - but if the balls are melted into the diff gear they'll roll at the same rate of speed, and whichever wheel gets the least bite, that's the one that will kick you into a slide.

The slipping in and out of corners is better addressed by suspension or loosening up the slipper a tad more, until it goes away. If it's just handling slip, suspension; if it's power-on traction slip, slipper.

[offroadcrazy01]

Tighen the bolt until the spring collapses fully and the screw bottoms out Do NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!then back it out 1/4 of a turn. Do the same thing to your slippler over tighening your slippler will make you tansmission idler gear and diff gear go bad http://rc-car.com/detail.asp?id=179 happy to see more people racing P.S Dont forget to put lock tight on that slipper nut :cool: keep us up dated on you next race

[offroadcrazy01]

I think it's you ride height try to even it out and go from there .also try not to let off the gas so fast all the weight of the call runs to the front and the car spins out check this site out http://users.pandora.be/elvo/intro.htm I dont think it your diff

[KanaiDude]

Hey thanks guys, i've gotten good traction on some tracks and not others could be tires as well as suspension. I'm rebuilding from bottom up for Lance Norricks NitroFest this weekend WOOHOO, I'm an 1/8 scale guy but wanna have my truck hooked up also (if possible) thanks for the tips guys I'll probably bring pics back from this race...

[cbr74]

More than 1/8 turn off the diff is asking for gear meltage.

[offroadcrazy01]

hard springs for smooth tracks like blue up front and silver in the back the tebo set-up and I use silver silver for softer tracks m2 up front m3 in the rear edges and bowtie's also you can run your engine low speed needle a little rich to gain traction Kanai also try for your corning slow and tight in fast out your lap times will be faster also tap the gas as your going around the tight corners if your not on the gas bro your not driving LOL!!! or go around the corner with your finger never leting go of the trigger all the way let me know how it works for you

[rocknbil]

More than 1/8 turn off the diff is asking for gear meltage.

I agree here, you **might** get away with 1/4 turn on electrics but on a GT 1/8 is about all you should do, and check it often.

The ultimate test is to hold the spur and one wheel and give the free wheel a good hard twist, the slipper topshaft should slip, not the diff.

[LearjetMinako]

I just remembered a LHS that might just offer what I'm looking for. A nice BIG track w/ SOFT DIRT and not clay. It was one the LHS that I first found when starting this hobby, but they were always rebuilding the track when I went to go pratice, so eventualy, it just left my mind. But now since I remember them, I think I'll go practicing their today @ 5:00 PM. Here's theirs website for you guys to check out: Action R/C (http://www.actionrc.com)

Oh, I finally got a job to pay for all these toys in the R/C hobby. I'll be working in a automotive shop, very good starting pay, plus its a field of work where I can put great pride into it. :D

[KanaiDude]

You guys are great really... I will apply all of this to the rebuild... Theres going to be some 10+ factory drivers at this race 225 entries, tebo coleman I think even saxton is comming WooHoo If I can get higher then the E-main in truck i'll be happy lol will probably be A-M mains, hope to make at least the B-C in 1/8 scale. I am wondering if when I open my diff the balls will be melted, mine seems awfully loose not to have burned something up, I will let you guys no on thursday for sure i'll post some pics to will be a day of wrenching...

[rocknbil]

If it passes that hold-the-spur-and-one-wheel test on the previous page, let 'er rip, your diff will be fine. Good luck in the race and remember slower is FASTER, it's smooth defensive driving and avoiding wrecks that wins races, not blistering down the straights. You'll spin out less, have less errors, and maintain control which all adds up to faster laps.

[offroadcrazy01]

Sounds good to me rockbil what state do you live in I live in socal,inside the book for the old gt. the one with the tube it say's 1/4 maybe the new book says 1/8 i got that one two but don't know where it was at the time both work

[KanaiDude]

Hey guys thinking about my traction problem I came up with a few things. The last time i raced the truck was on two tracks the same day. The first track was loamy and i was using lugnuts (proline) pretty aggressive tread, i did great there came in 3rd qualifying and we got rained out. So at 4pm 8 of us drove 2.5 hours to another track starting late that night. I was wipped so it didn't occur to me that lugnuts would not hook up on a hard packed high tracktion track, I should have used some smaller steps or hole shots?? I think that is where the root of my problems started cause the lugnuts were terrible on the track and i came in like last. So being a hard headed 1/8 scale driver who always runs crime fighters i didn't think about how important the tires were going to be, this sound about right?? Cheers!

[rocknbil]

Kanai - your assessment sounds just about right. For hard-packed tracks, a soft compound mini-pin or medium pin is probably going to be the best bet, but they wear out pretty quickly under those conditions so it's an expensive investment. Mini-pins on a hard-packed track might get you two race weekends before they begin it wear off, it sucks.

Look at it this way: the more penetration you are going to get into the surface, the higher and harder (compound) your tire knobs need to be. If you can't get that penetration, you're going to need something shorter, softer and with a lot more nubs per square inct to get every bit of grip you can.

Even under those conditions your slipper becomes an important player. When you have reduced traction for any reason - loosen it up, even though you can't get out of corners quickly, you'll have less slip errors. Three items in my pocket at all times: mini-driver for tuning, slipper nut driver, and glow-start. :D

Sounds good to me rockbil what state do you live in I live in socal,inside the book for the old gt. the one with the tube it say's 1/4 maybe the new book says 1/8 i got that one two but don't know where it was at the time both work

Southern Oregon, but I grew up in the "South Bay" (Torrance, etc) area - very VEEEEEERY long ago. :D

Well I'm not arguing that, but since I can remember - and my first AE was a 10T - the recommended adjustment for any Stealth has been snug, 1/8 back out, then re-check after every few runs. It's not a MAJOR point until you put a nitro engine behind it, then it's more critical. Like I say, the true acid test is to hold a wheel and the spur and see if the other wheel slips, you may even have to go less than 1/8.

[Strike 4]

Maybe a stupid question but what happens if you dont back off 1/8th on the diff?

[RC10racer89]

Basically a number of bad things, but most commonly when the diff is to tight I find that it locks the rear drive train stopping the diff from differentiating between both wheels. This makes the Diff completely useless, so just stick with backing off the 1/8 turn:D

[offroadcrazy01]

it will melt if it is to tight

[rocknbil]

offroad - what makes you say that? Actually I have found the exact opposite is true.

The tighter the rings are against the balls the less chance they have of slipping and they roll on the rings as intended. If it's TOO tight, what it will do depends on what kinds of balls you have. (LOL . . nevermind . . . ) If you have carbide balls, the excess pressure will cause the rings to wear prematurely. With SS balls, both the balls and rings will both wear, leaving microscopic flat spots on the balls. In either case, the "chunky feel" appears much sooner than it should.

If the diff is too LOOSE, the balls will slip on the rings instead of rolling. This is especially true if you like to lock down your slipper clutch for wheelies, make hard landings while on the throttle, run a larger engine, or anything else that slams the diff really hard. When the balls slip, it's metal on metal - and very hard metals at that - and it causes a lot of friction, and FAST. The balls get very hot and melt the plastic of the diff gear holes that hold them in place. When you stop, the plastic cools and traps the balls in the ring holes so they can't roll. Now you've got a diff that doesn't have differential action, with both wheels spinning forward, or when you give it gas - it won't go, which initially leads you to think it's the engine clutch.

Every single ebay GT I've bought has had a melted diff gear, I'm painfully over-familiar with this particular error. :D

[offroadcrazy01]

Page 19 in the manual figs 65 & 66 this is the old school instruction book the black and white before the before associated had the flat pan I have a new one but can't find it right now :eek: I'm moving and most of my stuff is in boxes what does your manual say give me a page number and fig #I going to look for the new one give me a day or so,also I say that because ask any body who's had a xxx-nt about diffs to tight and your be sorry to loose you can hear it and make a adjustments the wheel test is the best way to check I agree with that but I always go by the book

[rocknbil]

It just so happens I have one of the old ones with the GT tub and all white parts in the pics, and that is exactly what it says, 1/4 turn, but I never argued that. Later editions and advice from AE has always indicated 1/8 is good, and it feels better anyway.

BUT- I have to ask you something - if you're moving and don't have the manual handy, how in the HECK did you remember that specifically to the page and figures? :D Man you got a photographic memory or something? Awesome! LOL :D

Anyway when I asked "what makes you say that" I was referring to your comment about it melting if it is too tight, I've found it just wears out the rings and balls faster.

[LearjetMinako]

Offroadcrazy probably does what I do sometimes. When its a nice rainy day, nothing beats a good manual to read. :D . And since everybody has been talking about diffs, I had to go play w/ mine. Found out that they were loose and now, maybe, hopefully not, I might need to rebuild them. They don't feel too bad, so I'll stick w/ them a little long. And besides that, its HOT down here. Everything that I have says its hot too. Ford Ranger runs w/ the fan on all the time. R/C's have a starting temp of 150*F. :eek: . Even roadkill is cooking on the side of the road. Need a indoor track, the only one around here closed up. :( . Never got to race on it. And who would have thought that the GT not only performs well on dirt but also on-road too. Got a set of Road Hawgs and me some rally fun. Drifting, burn outs, dounts, power sliding, tires sqeeling. Its all fun.

[NOHC]

OK. Dumb question. What's the difference between the RTR Plus & the Factory Team version, other than the shocks, shock towers, turnbuckles, CVD's, brake adapter, servosaver tube, blue front axles, blue tuned pipe & aluminum screws?

Are the chassis & transmission mount different between them?

[rocknbil]

LOL NOHC . . that's not enough? :D

I have what was once the old RTR version, my wife's is a team. I can't remember the Plus specs, as they may have started using the team chassis with it. If so, the following only applies to the old RTR.

There may be others, but if you replace all the non-team parts with upgrades, the only remaining real difference is in the chassis. The RTR chassis is a thicker aluminum and 1/4" shorter. The bottom of the chassis is a little different; it is not beveled around the bump-start hole and some of the screw holes are not CNC countersunk. All the mounting positions are the same.

Basically a little dremel work and a lot of upgrades and for all practical purposes it is the same.

[cbr74]

The RTR Plus uses the Team chassis.

[rocknbil]

^ ^ Thanks man, didn't have time to drag out the old RCCA review. :D

Hey guys - I've got ZERO experience with short cranks, all mine are old style longs that you need to cut. Can someone with short-crank experience click the link below and review the last few posts above it? His clutch bell is too far out and is hitting the inside of the spur. I hope he doesn't need a different engine :eek:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1509062#post1509062

[dm76]

Hey, have any of you put any components such as suspension parts from the T-4 on your GT's? If so lets hear it!! I am going to put some threaded shock bodies my GT, but other than that what will work? :D :confused:

WOW!! 75 posts with 4 years being registered, is that a record??

[NOHC]

rocknbil & cbr, thanks. I'm considering a new truck & the RTR Plus fits my needs nicely. I just didn't want to buy a new chassis(along with the hard anodized shocks, graphite parts & CVD's) in case I wanted to take it racing.

[RAYMAN1OO7]

is associated going to update the rc10gt anytime soon? because i cant decide between the rc10gt or mugen mst-1, with either, i will get the o.s .12 tr. because im leaning towards the mst-1 right now, but i dont want to get it, and associated will come out with a sweet new updated rc10gt. i love associated though, i have 2 tc3's, a ft t3 and soon a rtr ntc3 plus. what do you guys think of the mst-1 compared to the rc10gt? thanks

[Fantom 15 gt]

You can put T4 caster blocks, steering blocks and axles on the GT to make the front stance wider. It'll go right on but you will have to drill out the caster blocks to fit the GT's hinge pins. You'll obviously have to re adjust your turnbuckles too.

[powerstroke01]

ooookkkkkkkkkk... This Picco .12 RC Speed just does not want to run... Sounds like an air leak but i dunno.. :( So far ive replaced the fuel tank, That helped a bit, we then tried another bottle of fuel that made a biiiig difference.. Gone through 5 plugs in the first 6 tanks so far... Bassicaly its just not tuning.. When we get it close to RUNNING it gets HOT. Max temp was 276 and that was still with a lack of performance. When we tune it a to the rich side it shuts off.. And these are small adjustments.. Weve tried medium and hot plugs. The hot one made a bit of a difference.. IVe had bout 6 people trying to get this thing running at my trackk... Its just really frustrating.. :mad:

[viperracing]

something I'm suprised not one person has mentioned, they need to create many more sections for certain popular vehicles just so all the info isnt crammed onto on topic. people could discuss more things about it. if any of you have seen r/c universe, under monster trucks it's split between savage, mgt, maxx. sorta common sense just, but guess no one really cares.

[offroadcrazy01]

The mugen truck is a nice truck but you be a lone gun not alot of people will be able to help you if you have troble.The mst-1 has killer shocks on it but you will have to get it dailed in on your own. If this is your first offroad gas truck I would go with the GT the gt has been good to the game and there is alot of support 3 time champ does not happen by luck,Not say's one is better then the other but one has a better foundation then the other I never go with the newest stuff I like rock soild ground just depends on you and what type of guy you are.Also always think about if your trucks brake are the parts available

[broncobill]

powerstroke01, I had the same problem with my MGT. Put the needles to factory spec for brake in, and once that was done, went to tune it. Now matter what I did, I could not get any performance, or keep the temps under 300 degrees. I e-mail AE, and they said it sounded like an air leak, and to send it to them for warranty work. I should get the engine back today. I hope they just send me a new one, since it got so hot. We'll see.

[drn1234]

Ok this is my first post and I have skimmed alot of the threads but to be honest that's alot of reading. I am a newbie but oldbie. I used to race RC10 electric back when I was a kid. I have a Nitro MT racer (kit version) and now I want a two wheel drive version to race. The local tracks do not run anything but 2-wheel offroad.
Anyway i decided on the Factory rc10GT kit over the lossi xxxnt and I am going to pick it up tuesday. I would like to race it this weekend what additional upgrades or issues should I take care of before the race? I know the factory version has alot of upgrades but what do you racers add to be competitive?

[NitroBoy24]

I dont think you can add much to the Factory Team GT to make it faster. Try out the Crescenzi brake kit at http://www.rc10gthobby.com/cr_brake.htm. Other then that, a good high end engine, good servos, the right tires, and smooth driving should pay off :) Practice, practice, and practice some more too.

Good choice choosing the GT over the NT, you probablly wont regret it. My dad has one so I can say first hand it is a great s/t :cool:

[dog8spam]

Something new I just tried yesterday, upgraded the drive pins that spin the wheels to 5/64 HSS, the wheels fit alot better (very little play) and will be harder to strip.

[powerstroke01]

powerstroke01, I had the same problem with my MGT. Put the needles to factory spec for brake in, and once that was done, went to tune it. Now matter what I did, I could not get any performance, or keep the temps under 300 degrees. I e-mail AE, and they said it sounded like an air leak, and to send it to them for warranty work. I should get the engine back today. I hope they just send me a new one, since it got so hot. We'll see.
Hmm.. I dunno.. Still messing with it. Must be a bad motor!??! Gone through 7 plugs in the first 6 tanks. Wont stay running.. As soon as the ignitor is removed it shuts off. Thinking its something in the carb..I sealed everything and cleaned the motor inside and out.. The only thing i havent done is cleaned the carb.. Ive about had it with this motor. Its brand new but it wont run.. :mad: Im about to sell it on ebay for parts..

[rocknbil]

. . . what additional upgrades or issues should I take care of before the race? I know the factory version has alot of upgrades but what do you racers add to be competitive?

Welcome aboard drn! I'm sure everyone else in this thread will agree with me, the GT rocks. :D

A few things off the top of my head:

Tuesday - the weekend is hardly enough time to get the engine broken in much less get familiar with how it rides, but that's up to you.

MIP CVD's are a MUST, lose the dogbones or your truck will lose them for you.

The GT is good to go out of the box, but your driving style in combination with the track will determine the best suspension setup. I recommend getting a full set of the AE front and rear spring sets (5 different spring tensions each) and oil weights from at LEAST 20 to 40. Lighter oils for bumpy wide-open tracks, heavier springs for hard jumps - that's really the super SHORT story, but it's a start. If you can get your hands on the AE GT tuning guide, it's a good guideline.

Ther BEST low-cost hop up I've ever found: go to your local Co-Op or antywhere else they sell pet or veterinary supplies and for about three bucks get a 50' roll of Co-Flex horse wrap. Do not get other brands, they are too thick. It's a self-sticking stretchy cloth that comes in a variety of colors, including neon green and neon pink. :D Remove your shocks and trim a piece large enough to just cover the springs and go around the shock 1-1/2 times. Roll the shock in your hands and replace the shock. It's WAAAAY cheaper than shock socks and will keep the dust out of your shocks. When it gets dirty, peel it off and throw it away and wrap on a fresh set. I only have to rebuild my shocks once a year or so and they never leak. Besides that it just looks Freakin' Cool. :D

A lot of people complain the GT has push, going in and coming out of turns. There are two setup changes that REALLY help this.

Set up a tiny bit of drag brake. This means when you let off the gas, at the neutral position a TINY bit of brake automatically applies. Not enough to slow you down really, but enough to feel it. What this does is shifts the weight forward and gives you more steering coming in.

If your GT "squats" from a dead stop - that is, the rear end drops when you nail it - you are likely going to see some loss of traction coming out of a turn. Oddly enough, the way to combat this is to adjust the REAR. What happens is the rear squats but it also lifts the front, reducing steering. A spring one step heavier and an oil 5 weights thicker in the REAR will counteract it, bringing back high-speed on-power steering.

I can't say enough about strong and FAST steering servos in both locations. Up front to hold it tight in the corners, on the throttle to get from full throttle to brake in the least amount of time. With a standard servo, as full speed, you can move as much as 30 feet before the servo gets from WOT to brake. A servo with a transit speed under .15 will cut this to 8-12 feet, and being a strong one will help keep it from overheating under the stress of a throttle return spring. I use the Futaba (9204's? I'm terrible with numbers :D ) in both locations, 110 oz/in .09 sec @ 6.0 v, 89 oz/in .11 sec @ 4.8 v.

The 4.8 V battery pack is fine, use nicads not nimh's, but a 5 cell 6.0 v hump pack will push your servo into the upper limits above and be more reliable.

Check your steering bellcrank servo saver after EVERY RUN. It's a great setup but can work loose and when it does, you lose steering throw.

If you don't have titanium camber links and steering turnbuckles, GET THEM. The potmetal stocks will bend at the first hard hit.

Get a spare glow start. Nuff said.

When your truck is new, the diff has to "settle in" and may loosen after break-in. Check the diff adjustment as often as possible - pop the rear camber link, slide the CVD doggie out, slip the allen wrench in, tighten it goot-n-tight, then back off no more than 1/8 turn. When the diff works loose, the balls slip on your plates, causing friction which heats them up enough to soften the plastic in the diff ring holes, then when it cools it encases the balls in the plastic so they can no longer roll and your diff action is shot. You need to break down the diff to replace the diff gear, which is not all expensive or that difficult but an unnecessary pain in the A in the face of just checking it often.

The slipper clutch or traction control device is the most ignored setup on a GT; use it. Let the slipper slip and not the wheels and you'll never spin out coming out of a corner. Well almost never. :D Set it on the surface you intend to run on as it varies from surface to surface.

While the stock engine clutch works fine, the preferred engine clutch is the MIP 4-in-1 clutch and the lightweight flywheel.

Tires: up front Pro-Line Edge 95's on all surfaces, rears, soft compound double-step pins of soft loamy stuff, a fuzzy short nub on hard stuff. The fuzzies will burn up in one weekend, so hopefully you have soft stuff to run on. Always glue your tires on the rims all the way around, expecially the rears - the centrifugal force alone at high speed will blow a bead - and drill at LEAST one 1/8" hole on the inside of the rims on all fours to allow air to flow in and out of the wheel. I drill two.

Well dinner's ready and like I said "off the top of my head" so this will probably seed some ideas from a lot of the other owners here, good luck and cool runnin's ! :D

[Striker]

I know this has probley been covered in the pleathra of pages behind this one, but with out spending 5 hours reading it, how do I make a SG shafted engine fit on my GT? I have a couple of spares, and I know that the stock RTR engine comes with one, but with different size cranks. I'd perfure to use NTC3 parts if posable.

[evild]

Mugen Seiki put out a new truck pipe (#P01003)(Picture attached). Any opinions on whether or not this would work well with the RC10GT and an O.S. .12TR?

Would this Losi header (http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSA9347&pc=LOSA9347) work well with the .12TR and stock Associated pipe (or any other pipe)?

[drn1234]

rocknbil

Thank you so much for all the time you put into your response :D I appreciate it. So much that I printed it out for use when I build it. Well just an update. I could not get it today my insurance bill came in and I completely forgot about it. So I will have to wait a few weeks.
When I get the kit I am going to use my MT motor for the race until my new one is properly broken in. I have a OS .15 CVR (numbers too lol)
I can not wait to get it. I run the MT now but I just can not wait to get back into racing. No one around here races Nitro MT 4 wheeled drive cars on a regular basis but when i move at the end of the year (moving to Las Vegas) I hear they run both 2 wheeled and 4 wheeled in Vegas for points. I can not wait to get out there. Anyone from Vegas on the board?
Anyway I appreciate all the info you gave me and can not wait to get the kit started and run some races.

A quick question on the MIP CVD's do you need new output shafts as well or will the kit version work. My MT CVDs are slightly shorter and would come out every now and then. I had to but extra long output sockets to remedy this.

On the steering is it a ball bearing setup or bushing. I just upgraded my MT with Powerline aluminum and put 5x8 ball bearings in. Oh my what a difference. I used to hate the steering on the mt now I love it.

The local track I am going to has a few small jumps and one large one. One of the negatives I read was the ass end is a bit heavy and the GT does not land quite right. Is this true and if so how do you remedy this. Add aluminum parts to the front end to weigh it down slightly?

Thanks again for all your input I am sure I will have more questions once i get the kit and run it a few times.

dave

[rocknbil]

raderrustler and many others are out in Vegas, they have a few awesome tracks out there.

When you say output shafts, do you mean the actual wheel axles or the transmission outdrives? You don't need either, the MIP CVD's replace the stock axles and the dogbone ends go right into the transmission outdrives, sometimes you need to put a few shims (provided) on the inside of the hub but that's about it.

As for the steering - it is not a BB steering but it doesn't need to be, IMO. It's two "special" screws that come up through the chassis, and the plastic steering bellcranks with the servo saver on them slide down over it with a plastic nut to hold them down. You are not supposed to tighten the nuts down tight, and it is solid, smooth, and tight with very little play. You CAN get an MIP BB bellcrank setup, but then you have to use one of those sloppy on-servo servo savers. Many like them but the stocks are just right.

If you want to examine it, go to teamassociated.com and download any of the GT manuals and have a look at how it's built.

I don't know about the rear-heavy part, but you can tweak the suspension to manage any jumps gracefully. Some drivers move the battery pack to the front for that very reason, but I like it the way it is. My wife is a "flier" - she gets around jumps and her GT goes straight for the sky. :D Usually 16 feet up and 30 feet lateral, the GT can take all she throws at it.

[dog8spam]

I like jumping too, the only things to watch is the back is weak, if you land on the battery pack it will most likely snap off with the bulkhead. If you nosedive it isnt as bad, the chassis may bend a little but itll still run.

You can control the car in the air with the throttle, hitting the brakes will bring the nose down, repeatedly jabbing the throttle brings it up. Experiment with that some and see if it helps.

[drn1234]

Sorry about that I was talking about the outdrives.

Good news insurance in and paid and I just got a commission check so I ran out and bought the car last night. I have about 80% of the car built. I was up all night. Very nice I can't wait to go pick up my motor and servos tonight. I did not think I was going to get as far as I did so I did not pick them up when i bought the car.

I see some upgrades already like an alloy diff nut and some other small stuff. I am going to look into the stering. It is smooth but when I changed it out on my MT it made a massive difference.

Thanks again

Dave

[doesgo]

There's a lot more friction in an MT/buggy steering system than on an RC10GT! I did the bearing thing with my Savage, Storm, and SUT and they're much better, but I still have the stock setup in my GT still because it just plain WORKS.

[fuzzy2133]

has any one used foam tires on their GT when on road racing? my LHS has a few sets on clearance and wondering if I am better off with good old rubber.

[powerstroke01]

Woooooooofriiiiigggeennnnn HOOOOOOOOOOOO

We finnaly got this motor runnin.. Its got great performance.. Cant get the temps any lower than 255 though.. max temp with WOT running was 270.. Course the ODT is 90s at 3000ft elevation.. So im happy.. That temp seems okay.. seeing as i only have 6-8 tanks on it. Yall think itll run any cooler as it breaks in more? Whenever i richened it just a tad it would bog and die.. Im using an OS#8 and Blue thunder 20%.. The bottom seems pretty good... Top is where weve been tuning.. Over all im friggen happy right now.. Even popped a wheely..

If the motor doesent rev down right away its a lil lean right? Would that be the top or bottom?

Anyways.. Just thought id share..

[offroadcrazy01]

I would get the temps down a little maybe lean up the hsn=high speed needle and then you will be able to lean up or richen up the motor right now both the hsn and the lsn are rich that's why it bogs good luck 230-240 max!!! but hey that just me check out the rbengine form they have alot of engine freaks there

[powerstroke01]

I would get the temps down a little maybe lean up the hsn=high speed needle and then you will be able to lean up or richen up the motor right now both the hsn and the lsn are rich that's why it bogs good luck 230-240 max!!! but hey that just me check out the rbengine form they have alot of engine freaks there
i wish i could run those temps. Maybe as it breaks in it will run cooler.. . If i richen it AT ALL it wont run. It seems nice right now. I dont know.. Maybe its just the weather..

Im about to go out and try a lil cooler plug.. To see if that changes anything..

[powerstroke01]

I put in an MC 8.. Had to retune it.. Ive also adjusted the low end a whole turn richer.. :eek: Whats weird is that it didnt make a whole lot of a difference.. :dunno: I did that to see if the motor would run cooler. Ive got the temps down to 255 without the body..

[rocknbil]

....
If the motor doesent rev down right away its a lil lean right? Would that be the top or bottom?....

When you richened the bottom end, did this go away?

That rev-down issue is generally lean on the low speed needle, yeah, but can also be due to having the throttle linkage set up too close to the idle point. In other words, if you let go of the trigger it **almost** but not quite goes to neutral, and the vibration lets it settle in against the idle stop screw. To make sure, set your linkage so it goes a tad PAST the idle point, just enough to assure a positive idle every time.

If turning the LSN a full turn makes no difference at all, you're probably running so lean (or rich) that the LSN adjustment isn't affecting it, or there's something else wrong, like an air leak or something. The LSN works with the the HSN mixture and usually it only takes a little change to make a big difference.

[bizaare69]

Hey everybody hey rock i havent talked to you in a while. so i have a small little problem i can get it started up and running but when im drivin around it if i let of the gas for a too long time period it bogs out and dies :( i know its a needle but im not sure which one and which way :) any help would be awesome thnx

[powerstroke01]

When you richened the bottom end, did this go away?

That rev-down issue is generally lean on the low speed needle, yeah, but can also be due to having the throttle linkage set up too close to the idle point. In other words, if you let go of the trigger it **almost** but not quite goes to neutral, and the vibration lets it settle in against the idle stop screw. To make sure, set your linkage so it goes a tad PAST the idle point, just enough to assure a positive idle every time.

If turning the LSN a full turn makes no difference at all, you're probably running so lean (or rich) that the LSN adjustment isn't affecting it, or there's something else wrong, like an air leak or something. The LSN works with the the HSN mixture and usually it only takes a little change to make a big difference.
Yes. The that went away.. Still running pretty warm.. But it never got over 280 with the body on. Again though the outside temps are in the mid 90s in the sun.. And we are at a higher altitude.. Too bad the track is at sea level. :mad: That means ill have to retune.. :mad:
And tuning the bottom DID seem to have a lil bit of a difference. Its not quite as snappy now.

It seems like its still running pretty rich on the top as there is quite alot of smoke. If i tune it any richer it bogs..

Ive already gone through the air leak thing. Ive sealed the carb, and backplate. I also checked for leaks.. None could be found.. This is the best ive had the truck running.

Im still confused why its still running hot but im happy its at least running.

[powerstroke01]

Ok. I just went out an hour ago and ran it again now that its 80 degrees and no sun. Ran MUCH cooler. I didnt have time to mess wiht the tuning as it was getting dark.. It was running a bit lean so im sure i could have gotten temps down a bit more.. Ran at 240 and a bit lean.

Going to take it to the track tuesday and tune it for there.. Ill just leave it tuned for down there for racing..

Bil, after this motor has more run time will the temps start to go down as the piston and sleave wear togather? In other words will it run cooler?

[rocknbil]

Yeah it **should** but then usually most counteract that by running it harder and leaning it out to race. :D

Bizarre - that would be the low speed needle, the one that's the big screw in the center of the throttle arm pivot. Turn it clockwise, IN, like one or two ticks - no more than 1/16 of a turn - see if that works.

[NitroDad]

Can anyone tell what this is exactyl, I know its Associated but how old I don't know. The hobby shop guy said it used tobe an electric I don,t think so but not sure.

[NitroDad]

Another

[NitroDad]

And another

[NitroDad]

Would that be why the engine mount does not fit all the way on the chassis?
Heck I'm thinkin of scrapin it anyway, I can't get to run, and the cost to up grade to, I can buy a new truck. It has an OS .15 on it, could someone tell me a good place to start on the needle valve and high low screws, for this engine?

[powerstroke01]

its an Rc10gt.. Right?

[doesgo]

It's just an RC10GT tub, looks pretty normal to me. I've owned one and have pictures if you'd like to compare. Looks just like yours though. There are still a few guys racing with those around here, but you can upgrade it to the flat chassis for around $40.

No wait, I mean, uhhh, it's worthless! I'll take it off your hands, and I'll even pay shipping! ;)

[powerstroke01]

It's just an RC10GT tub, looks pretty normal to me. I've owned one and have pictures if you'd like to compare. Looks just like yours though. There are still a few guys racing with those around here, but you can upgrade it to the flat chassis for around $40.

No wait, I mean, uhhh, it's worthless! I'll take it off your hands, and I'll even pay shipping! ;)
Ill pay shipping PLUS ill send you a coupon for a free 12 pack of coke!!!!!11!!!11!!!1!! :p

[doesgo]

I'll go a 24-pack. No, TWO 24-packs!

[rocknbil]

...I The hobby shop guy said it used tobe an electric I don,t think so but not sure.

GADS one of the things I hate MOST about this hobby is there are so many people in a position to help hobbyists and they keep feeding them BS!!!

As was said, that is the original GT "tub." If you want to see the "electric" he was talking about, click here (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html), and scroll down to the original AE 10T's near the bottom of the page. Note how the chassis doesn't have half of it "chopped out." The transmission is also turned around the other way, and a few other changes, but much of the other parts are identical to your tub. Anyone who knows even a little bit about AE's can tell you this, guess that's why it bugz me so. :D

The original tub is STILL a very competitive nitro. It has two weak points - the chassis flexes right near the rear, causing the pinion/clutch bell to "bounce" against the spur, stripping it, and their is a great deal of axial flex up front (twist.) Both can be fixed with various braces and the original GT is still a lean mean racin' machine. :D Many of the old-timers and pros still persue the original GT chassis over the aluminum one because it's so much lighter.

[NitroDad]

Well now I might be onto something here, only I drink Mountain Dew, and BUD Light. I will fix the flex If I could just get the dam thing started.

[rocknbil]

LOL . . BTW didn't see your comment about the engine mount hanging off the chassis - that is what it does and is normal. Go to http://www.teamassociated.com and you should be able to track down a manual for it.

OK I'm not gathering whether you're new to nitro or not so I'll run over a few basics:

Very VERY VERY important for nitro-powered RC's: TRANSMITTER ON THEN CAR, CAR OFF THEN TRANSMITTER. Always insure a signal is going to the truck and all electronics are functioning, otherwise if you do get it started the engine can go to WOT (wide open throttle) and blow the connecting rod.

1. I don't see an air filter there. NEVER run a nitro engine without an air filter. The least bit of dust in there and it will score the piston/sleeve, and once your compression is shot, you'll hardly be able to keep it running and it simply won't idle. Use a small zip tie around the filter base to make sure it doesn't bounce off.

2. Before you put the air filter on, turn on all the electronics, and at the NEUTRAL and FULL BRAKE positions, look in the carb. You should see about a 1-2mm gap for air to get in, that's about the thickness of the credit card you bought it with. :D If it's not, adjust the idle screw until it is, that's the one just below where the air filter mounts.

3. For most engines, the "baseline" place to start is between 2.5 -3 turns out on the high speed needle (HSN,) the one sticking up out of the top of the carb. Turn it all the way in, counting full revolutions so you know where it WAS, then back out exactly 3 turns. You'll adjust this later, but you want to be on the rich side to get it started. Leave the LSN alone for now.

4. I see it's a pull start. Plug the exhaust and give it a few pulls, and watch the fuel line. Bring the fuel UP TO the carb and only 1 or 2 more pulls after that. People tend ot over-prime here, bad idea. When pulling the pull-start, get in the habit of only pulling the cord 3/4 of the way out, this will make it live longer. One good hard yank 100% out and it will break the spring free from it's lock-notch.

5. Make sure the glow start is charged, and the glow plug that's actually going into the engine is good. Pull the plug and put it on the glow starter if you have to (it won't burn you. :D ) Before applying the glow start to the plug in the engine, re-check electronics are on and the air filter is mounted.

6. Apply glow start and crank it up. It will start on the third or 4th pull. If it doesn't, remove the glow and give it one or two more plug-pulls to prime.

7. Once it's running, allow it to warm up for AT LEAST 30 seconds before pulling the glow start. Give it a little gas with the wheels in the air, if it dies, make adjustments to the HIGH SPEED needle only, in 1/8 turn increments, allowing at least 30 seconds between changes for the engine to "settle in" to the adjustment before deciding it didn't work. Most likely, from 3 turns you'll want to lean it out (clockwise, in.) It will take a nitro a full five minutes to get up to operatin speed - get it running, drive it around a little, and bring it back in for final tuning.

8. It's normal for a GT with stock shoes to "lurch forward" at idle, but at no more than a slow walking speed, and you should be able to hold the brake without it stalling. If it's outside of either of these two, you need to bring the idle down as low as it can go and stay running. What happens is as the idle comes up, the centrifugal force engages the shoes, if left in a high idle condition it will burn out the clutch.

Did I miss anything? Hope not. :D

Adjust the low speed needle ONLY if you have "skipping" or "bogging" getting from idle to full speed, and only after the high speed performance is where you want it. If it "cuts out" at high speed, you are TOO LEAN, enrich it. If it "bogs" at high speed, too rich.

After running, run the tank dry and give a good shot of that ARO. After run oil is only useful if you COMPLETELY coat the inside of the engine, a few drops won't do. The idea is to get enough in there to displace any water that may condense on the inside of the engine. This is a highly argued topic, but I remove the air filter, put about a half-teaspoon squirt in, and crank the engine over a few pulls. The ARO gets in the combustion chamber in the same way as the fuel. Removing the plug is not necessary and just wears out the gasket.

[powerstroke01]

Ahahha.. You must have sore fingers Bil... lmao

[rocknbil]

Nah me programmer got callouses lol . . took about 4 mins tho.

[powerstroke01]

Nah me programmer got callouses lol . . took about 4 mins tho.
lol it figures.. That would have taken me about 15-20mins.. I dont think my hands would move after that either.. lol

[atm92484_3]

Nitrodad, it looks like the lower engine mounting plates are on backwards (the front one is on the rear and visa-versa). I can't tell from the pics, but the engine mounts that connect the engine to those plates may also be on backwards. If you want, I can try to scan a tub chassis GT manual I have for the page that shows the engine mount assembly.

[NitroDad]

That would be great, I got this thing the way it is exept the pipe, and yes I have a filter. I,m not new to nitro and that is what frustrates me, that is why I was wondering where the high and low screws should be to start the prosess, Just a base line U know. But ican't get it to even kick alittle, it just fills the pipe with fuel.

[NitroDad]

If I can get it to run I'll strip it down and clean everything, hopfully get a new chassis. I looked for the chassis kit at towerhobbies and cant find it, I should have got the last time I seen it. maybe I'll just buy a whole new truck and use this one for spare parts.

[doesgo]

Here's the pullstart conversion kit:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUX81&P=7

And here's the non-pull conversion kit:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUX82&P=7

[rocknbil]

You might get a better deal from rcBoyz, they used to have the lowest price I could find at the time. My wife did a team convert on her GT, it cost $39 at one time.

[rc3max]

Hi, I was just wondering if there is a roto start system for the rc10 gt?

[evild]

...just wondering if there is a roto start system for the rc10 gt?
Not from Associated but you could try TigerDrive (http://www.sullivanproducts.com/StarterAccessoriesContent.htm) from Sullivan Products.

[doesgo]

You can also use the Yank Eliminator on most pull-start engines if you pull off the pullstart unit and your engine has an external, removable one-way bearing.

[powerstroke01]

Took my gt to the track.. This Picco makes this thing FLY!!!!!!!! I just need to dial in some more steering and some more brake... Also im trying to work out a radio glitch that only occurs when the motor is running..

And how do you guys rout your fuel line? Just trying to get some ideas..

[rocknbil]

Around the outside of the head (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html), with a loop and a half on the pressure line, reverse or non-reverse fill tank.

[NitroDad]

Ok guys, lets take a poll. What is the best .15 size engine? And best value? Cheep power/reliability? Not racing just bangin around.

[doesgo]

O.S. .15 CV-R at $115 from Tower. That's non-pull. Better yet would be the O.S. .18CV-R at $140 non-pull from Tower.

[powerstroke01]

Around the outside of the head (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html), with a loop and a half on the pressure line, reverse or non-reverse fill tank.
Sweet! Thanks Bill!

[evild]

So I got myself the MIP 4-in-1 Clutch. I have the RC10GT Standard Flywheel (#7610). When I slide the assembled clutch over the flywheel pins, the pins hit the spring.

Can I cut off the excess on the pins to allow the clutch to slide all the way down? The instructions from MIP say I may have to tap the pins to adjust it. I tapped the pins pretty hard with a hammer, but they didn't move.

What has everyone else done?

(doesgo - help out a fellow FHF racer! :))

[powerstroke01]

So I got myself the MIP 4-in-1 Clutch. I have the RC10GT Standard Flywheel (#7610). When I slide the assembled clutch over the flywheel pins, the pins hit the spring.

Can I cut off the excess on the pins to allow the clutch to slide all the way down? The instructions from MIP say I may have to tap the pins to adjust it. I tapped the pins pretty hard with a hammer, but they didn't move.

What has everyone else done?

(doesgo - help out a fellow FHF racer! :))
Dunno. But ive got the MIP lightweight flywheel and i love it!

[evild]

Can I cut off the excess on the pins to allow the clutch to slide all the way down? The instructions from MIP say I may have to tap the pins to adjust it. I tapped the pins pretty hard with a hammer, but they didn't move.

What has everyone else done?
I just went ahead and cut down the flywheel pins to fit. Works like a dream.

[rocknbil]

^ ^ Hehe . . yeah that works. For future reference, best of ALL is to get an MIP lightweight or heavyweight flywheel, but you can "press" the stock pins in so they are flush with the back of the flywheel and it should come out about right. The hammer's not a great idea, it can mushroom the ends of the pins, better off using a press or in a pinch (no pun intended) a bolt through the center, two large washers for a makeshift press.

[evild]

...but you can "press" the stock pins in so they are flush with the back of the flywheel and it should come out about right.
On the Associated Standard Flywheel (#7610) the pins are already flush with the back. So I figured cutting them off would be better than pushing them through and possibly hitting the engine casing. I'll get an MIP lightweight flywheel as soon as I find one NOT with purple anodizing. :)

[powerstroke01]

On the Associated Standard Flywheel (#7610) the pins are already flush with the back. So I figured cutting them off would be better than pushing them through and possibly hitting the engine casing. I'll get an MIP lightweight flywheel as soon as I find one NOT with purple anodizing. :)
Yeah.. I was looking at the Lightweights and i couldnt find one in anything but purple.. lol Luckly for me when i bought my truck it already had one on there thats not purple..

[rocknbil]

If you feel threatened with purple, it's nothing a little Easy Off oven cleaner can't solve. :D hehehe

evild is that a pull-start flywheel? I could swear the non-PS one you just had to press them in. Been a long time, solly.

[bubbastump]

yeah the 4n1 is awesome and a great set on the no.2 setting on a lightweight flywheel

whoooo hoooo im back
long time no post

[rocknbil]

Yo bubba whatup man where ya been? Big summer for AC work I 'spose? :D

[drn1234]

Please help me figure out what I am doing wrong.

I just got a RC10GT buggy and when I put the front turnbuckles on the tow in tow out and steering can not be adjusted enough to straighten out the wheels etc. The ball cups are threaded all the way down so the threads are no longer showing. and yet still my wheels are pointed out left and right and the steering is close but not close enough.

I took the front end off and re checked that all the left and right components were in the right spots. Everything looks great but I can not adjust the front end.

What am i doing wrong or has anyone else run into this.

I can post pics if you like.

Thanks for the help

[powerstroke01]

Please help me figure out what I am doing wrong.

I just got a RC10GT buggy and when I put the front turnbuckles on the tow in tow out and steering can not be adjusted enough to straighten out the wheels etc. The ball cups are threaded all the way down so the threads are no longer showing. and yet still my wheels are pointed out left and right and the steering is close but not close enough.

I took the front end off and re checked that all the left and right components were in the right spots. Everything looks great but I can not adjust the front end.

What am i doing wrong or has anyone else run into this.

I can post pics if you like.

Thanks for the help
The wheels are pointed out?

Umm

Post pics.

[rocknbil]

If I haven't hailed ya already, welcome aboard! :D

Is it a kit or did you buy it used?

You said the threads are all the way IN the ball cups. To get toe-in, you want to LENGTHEN the steering turnbuckles, that's all. :D Turn them the other way.

Either that or some AE truck turnbuckle kits come with a shorter T.B. for the rear camber link, if you got the short ones and have them mounted up front you'll have that problem, but it's not likely with stock T.B.'s or any specifically for the GT.

[drn1234]

Here are two pics. All turnbuckles are the same length. The instructions also mention that all 6 turnbuckles provided are the same length.

This is the factory kit version and I bought it new. I did change the ball cups to a heavier duty but even with the kit cups the same problem existed.

Also the turnbuckles are all the way in the ball cup (no threads showing) So I can not pull the tires in anymore unless i cut the turnbuckles shorter. I do not want to do that yet since the factory supplied parts should be the correct length. I have to be doing something wrong.

Thanks for the welcome aboard.

By the way getting that OS12TR in was a bit of a chore. I had to modify a exhaust manifold and move the exhaust bracket to get it to work. I think it was well worth it for this engine.

[drn1234]

second pic

[powerstroke01]

Yup, All you need to do is Lengthen the turnbuckles till the wheels straiten out.. But do it equally on each side!

[rocknbil]

Here are two pics....


Shaaaaa -- WING!!!

It's always so cool to see yet another new one. :D

The problem you have there is not toe-in, it's camber. The upper camber link is too long, usually the setup is 0º to 1º negative camber (tops of wheels tipped in.) Get that into place and you'll have more than enough toe-in.

Is there another mounting point on the front shock tower for the upper camber links, a little up and farther in? If there isn't, you may have to drill one, but I think there is . . . and yes, I HAVE had that problem with the RPM's, but not that much. I've made it a little easier by trimming 1/8 or so off the end of the ball cups, making it a little easier to get them in just a tad more, but you have to be carefil the end of the TB doesn't go through to the inside of the cup.

Another thing - put at least a 7" pressure line from the tank to the exhaust and coil it in a loop like this (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html). You'll have a lot less bubbling and idling troubles.

[drn1234]

I will increase the length of the exhaust line later tonight. Thanks for the pointer.

No other holes on the shock tower to mount it to. Even my toe in and toe out turnbuckle is completely maxed with no threads or adjustment. (thanks for clearing up camber vs toe) They are close but I would still like to adjust them. It just seems like the turnbuckles are the wrong size all the way around. To long.

Thanks for the input I guess i will shorten them up and see how that goes.

I can't wait to get this thing running and racing.

[bubbastump]

man that gt looks almost tooo clean


rockinbill-ive been sooo busy
i now have a 9 month old daughter
i only raced 1 time this year so far
ind i finally got a new password on this fourm
i totaly forgot old password cause iv been moderating on this fourm (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/forum/upload/index.php?) lots of good guys there and a few others ya dont want to listen to
but i blew a tr on opening day and fried my reciever pack
i have a new tr waiting to be mounted
i have the gt all set up sweetly thanks to this wonderful contraption

[drn1234]

It wont look like that for long :D

I shortened the rods and have started to set it up. Can't wait to get it going to break in the engine. I will not be able to fire it up until Sunday. My other expensive hobby is taking over tonight. I play in a band in Philadelphia. We are booked on South Street Friday and Saturday nights.

What is the name of that contraption and how well does it work. Also cost?

Thanks,
Dave

[evild]

evild is that a pull-start flywheel? I could swear the non-PS one you just had to press them in. Been a long time, solly.
Nope, not a pull-start flywheel. The old engine was a pull-start, but with my new .12TR, I thought I'd start fresh.

[bubbastump]

thats a 1/10 offroad hudy setup system

[bubbastump]

go here and read up (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/forum/upload/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=1963&) it has price and part number to order

[rocknbil]

drn - this your first time running nitro? Got anyone experienced around to walk you through the first run? It would sure save you a lot of headaches . . .

[dog8spam]

Speaking of nitro problems I got just one little one I cant seem to shake.
I dont got much time to tell the whole story but I cannot keep my glowplugs from melting. They melt so fast the engine doesnt even hit, some even melted before I cranked it. The obvious solution is the glowstarter, I tried three different ones all with the same results (two my friends were using to run thier GTs while I messed with mine) I think I have used about 12+ glowplugs already and my engine has not hit once. I finally ended up getting a completely new engine, and it has the SAME EXACT PROBLEM. It was a NEW ENGINE. I have not missed anything, I have the right fuel (10% Dynamite Blue Thunder), always use the proper head shims and copper gaskets, use the right plugs (short for stock heads, long for O'Donnel) and always med., the tuning is right EVERYTHING. I have been running nitro for over 6 years I am doing nothing different. I havent changed a thing and then all of a sudden this problem comes up. The more I look at the facts the more I know it cannot possibly be happening. I have tried EVERYTHING and I am at my wits end with this thing. I cant afford this ethier, everytime I try something else it costs me $4.

Ask me questions, try to figure out what it is because I cant.

[rocknbil]

First, if you caught the "mythbusters" article in (August?) RCCA - the difference in glow plugs is NOT by length. A long or short glow plug will not make a noticable difference in compression, and using a LONG plug will NOT damage an engine if it's intended for short plugs. (There's a typo in that article that has been the topic of some kidding with Mr. Pond, it says something about using the glow plug in the carburetor . . . lol . . )

The REAL difference in plugs is their "temperature," which has nothing directly to do with ENGINE temperature (but by virtue of timing, can.) Hot plugs ADVANCE the ignition point, cold ones RETARD it. Generally, you pair a hot plug with low nitro percentage, like yours, and cold plugs with higher percentages, like 30% and up, and most of us would use an average plugs, like an OS #8 or MC-59, for 20%. So with that in mind, with 10% nitro, you should be using a hot plug, like an OS A3.

As for your problem, the one single cause of blowing glow plugs is consistently running too lean. I cannot imagine why it would blow before it even starts, or why different glow starts would cause the problem, because that's really chasing an assumption that may not be true - it's not very likely that ANY single-cell glow start would blow a plug. It's something else.

Given the above info about plugs, you never mentioned what BRAND you are using. Is it possible it's the brand or batch you're buying? Try a different brand ordered from a different place than where you normally get it, who knows, it could be something with that batch?

[drn1234]

rocknbil

This is my second car. I have a HPI MT racer.
:)

[dog8spam]

As for your problem, the one single cause of blowing glow plugs is consistently running too lean. I cannot imagine why it would blow before it even starts, or why different glow starts would cause the problem, because that's really chasing an assumption that may not be true - it's not very likely that ANY single-cell glow start would blow a plug. It's something else.
The car was not too lean, the new engine was over 1/4 richer than normal for break in. I also replaced all the gaskets and fuel line and checked that all the screws are tight, it would be highly improbable that there is an air leak of that size (even an air leak at all) that would lean out the mixture. I have ran much leaner at times and never burned out plugs like this, also if it was really lean the engine just wouldnt run, and being cold it would be harder to melt a plug. As you mentioned, tuning also brings up the question of the plugs that burned before the engine was cranked and fuel air mixture could even affect it.

About the glowstarters I was trying to say, by testing three individual ones, that they werent the cause.

Given the above info about plugs, you never mentioned what BRAND you are using. Is it possible it's the brand or batch you're buying? Try a different brand ordered from a different place than where you normally get it, who knows, it could be something with that batch?

I have tried Associated, Fox, McCoy, Duratrax, and a few loose ones I had floating around I have no idea what brand they are.

Appreciate the post, need more though. I know this sounds far fetched, I can hardly believe it myself. From now on until this is fixed Im going to start documenting everytime I try to start my GT to get some more accurate info to help pinpiont the problem.

[rocknbil]

Well that cinches it then. You're cursed. I'll give ya $200 for the GT and all your gear.

[bubbastump]

im still debating on breaking in my new engine and running this weekend

[IFLYBYU]

Dog8spam,

I noticed that you mention running 2 different heads on your motor, Did you remember to include the head shims with your swap? Were the head shims damaged in any way if you did swap them?

I agree with bill that this sounds like an airleak problem, except for the fack that you blew a plug before even starting the engine.

Mike

[rocknbil]

im still debating on breaking in my new engine and running this weekend

This one's easy, as a married man and pappa you only have to ask ONE QUESTION:











Where will I have to sleep if I do?

:D

[RC10racer89]

Lol so glad I'm not married... I'm going to the track tommorow! :D

[dog8spam]

Somehow I got unsuscribed from here...
Oh well, to answer your question yes I used the shim and Ill check for airleaks again just for fun. I wont be trying to run it again for awhile since Im working on two costly projects at once and I need fuel and lots of plugs. I think it may be the fuel, Im HOPING its the fuel, even though Ill feel really dumb (more than I already do :rolleyes: ) because it sat for a long time and its the only thing I can think of I havent tried yet.

[slaf]

Hi all !

I need new rear tires for my GT. I mostly run on hard packed track. Any suggestion ??? I was looking for Proline Gladiator....

[doesgo]

How hard-packed is it? My local indoor nitro track is pretty hard-packed and everyone runs Holeshots. I think Gladiators would be way too large of a lug for a hard track.

[jc2stroke2]

hey i just found this site and just in time toi just bought a rc10 i have had nitro for a few yaers so im not new to them but all monster trucks my ? is that the gt has good com. and runs really good but i had it out in the yard tryin to get it tuned up and when i got it runin right it would be 300 plus and it still was runin like it needed the lsn leaned and the hsn richen it was smokin alooot iv never had a stadium truck so i donno is it just that the grass ispullin so hard on it should it do a wheelie should what are facttory setting oh yea its a .15 ae engine with a lsn and hsn carb iv runn it before in the ball dimond and its fast as heck seemed like it was rich though im useing 16% trinnity fuel with medium plugs please helpif you can i wanna get it right so idont burn up the motor thanks ,jared

[rocknbil]

Whew (takes breath for jared) :D

Yeah grass will cause the temp to rise, it's a lot of drag. Keep it on dirt or pavement until you get a handle on tuning it, and even then keep your grass-time to a minumum.

[jc2stroke2]

thanks i wondered about that it sure seems like it labors in the yard but should it do a wheelie of the start on pavement {the slipper is tight** what are the factory settings thank you for the help ,jared

[RC10racer89]

Hey have any of you guys heard anything about the new GT? I heard a rumor it was currently being developed, but wasn't able to find any information about it. Do I have false information? Or am I just in the dark here.

[powerstroke01]

Hey have any of you guys heard anything about the new GT? I heard a rumor it was currently being developed, but wasn't able to find any information about it. Do I have false information? Or am I just in the dark here.
Havent heard anything over here!

[dog8spam]

Nethier has anyone I think it was just a rumor that someone started after the B4 and T4 came out, and Associated said (at that time) that there was definately no new GT in the near future.

[Fantom 15 gt]

I think associated is trying to surprise us. If my calculations are right the GT should be next in line for a make over. I hope so anyway.

[rocknbil]

I don't know. But what could a new version possibly contain? Any changes to the geometry or suspension would make it a different truck, they made that mistake with the T2. :D If it works, don't fix it, I say, it seems like everyone wants a new GT just for the sake of it being new. The tranny hasn't changed in 10 years or so. The shocks are the same, outside of the coatings. The suspension on the original GT is the same length and width. if it needed changing they'd have done it by now.

[slaf]

I never heard about any new GT. This truck is already perfect as it is. The only changes I can imagine is about suspension.....Maybe T4 suspension. But as other people said...Why change something that is perfect :)

[Fantom 15 gt]

I was thinking along the lines of T4 suspention geometry.

[RC10racer89]

Cool thanks for the info.

[dog8spam]

I can think of lots of things to change...
For one thing why not make the front shocks trailing? All it requires is 2 extra longer screws.

[drn1234]

Speaking of suspension and shocks. What after market shocks are you guys running for the froint. I love the powerline aluminum shocks in blue but they do not have the length I need for the front of the GT.

Any sugestions.

Thanks,
Dave

[rocknbil]

And exactly why would you want to do that dog8spam?

[dog8spam]

Its lower! and it looks cooler. I have it on mine Ive seen other people that do it too. By the way have you checked PM?

[jc2stroke2]

hi all can some one tell me the factory settings for the rc10gt it has the 2 needle carb thank you for your help,jared

[rocknbil]

Those should be in your manual for the .15 engine (http://download.teamassociated.com/pdf/manuals/2900_manual.pdf) or .12 engine (http://download.teamassociated.com/pdf/manuals/engman_2912.pdf).

See page 4, HSN 2 turns out, LSN 2 to 2-1/2 out.

It's always good to remember that this is RARELY where you will wind up with any given engine, it's just a starting point.

dog8 - yeah sorry man but I have just been busy and my GT is down at the moment waiting for parts, other things have me distracted at the moment . . . although I DO have a good response for you - patience. :D

[jc2stroke2]

thank you that is the best advice ive heard in a while,jared

[slaf]

Speaking of suspension and shocks. What after market shocks are you guys running for the froint. I love the powerline aluminum shocks in blue but they do not have the length I need for the front of the GT.

Any sugestions.

Thanks,
Dave

I race stock shock....Why you wanna change them ?

[slaf]

Nethier has anyone I think it was just a rumor that someone started after the B4 and T4 came out, and Associated said (at that time) that there was definately no new GT in the near future.


New RC10GT will be annonce in October.... I got this from a "official" source. :) :) :) :)

[Fantom 15 gt]

A AE worker?

[bubbastump]

there will be a gt4 coming out supposedly b4 the next season starts
i have my sources too
its a sponcered driver that i talk to on aim
not factory just sponcered

[caseymou]

Hopefully someone can help me out. I have a couple of used engines I was getting ready to put in my GT. I attempted to mount the flywheel and it is not tightening. The brass piece doesn't seem to be big enough. I have tried 2 of the brass thingy's and 2 flywheels. The engines I was working with were fantom .12 and OS TR .12. Is there shims I can use or bigger brass thingy's, or should I purchase new collars and flywheels?

[offroadcrazy01]

It's the collars I bet you that happen to me I tryed to use a piccio collars on a mt12 you have to use the one that come with the engine or the associated ones

[offroadcrazy01]

It's the collars I bet you that happen to me I tryed to use a piccio collars on a mt12 you have to use the one that come with the engine or the associated ones

[offroadcrazy01]

It's the collars I bet you that happen to me I tryed to use a piccio collars on a mt12 you have to use the one that come with the engine or the associated ones

[W33dM4n99]

Hey guys, I am a long time ST guy, and I went to nitro on-road for awhile and didnt like it too much. So I have decided to get a rc10gt! I found what seems to be a good deal on ebay. What do you guys think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5917119451&rd=1#ebayphotohosting

I have emailed him about it, so I am hoping for a response pretty soon, but it doesnt have very much time left on it. So what are your opinions on this?

-Daniel

[slaf]

Hey guys, I am a long time ST guy, and I went to nitro on-road for awhile and didnt like it too much. So I have decided to get a rc10gt! I found what seems to be a good deal on ebay. What do you guys think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5917119451&rd=1#ebayphotohosting

I have emailed him about it, so I am hoping for a response pretty soon, but it doesnt have very much time left on it. So what are your opinions on this?

-Daniel


It looks nice, you'll love this truck. There is always a risk to buy on EBay but the truck seems clean and in nice condition.

[dog8spam]

Very nice, for 250 Id take it. Its your call though.