Associated RC10GT Forum v8.0

[rocknbil]

Daniel - see other thread in Nitro Forum.

[slaf]

What engine are you running in your GT ???

I run/race stock .15 engine and I think it's enough power for the truck. Some guys at the track always want more power and switch their engine for OS .15/.18 CVR....

I think that putting any engine with more than 1hp is a money waste...Is there something I don't understand about putting more powerful engine in GT's ???

[doesgo]

I run an O.S. .15 CV-R in mine, but I have to switch to a .12 engine next year to run in the Pro class.

As for "more power, its usefulness depends on the track and your driving style and ability. A high-bite track and/or a large layout can really use the additional power, but short, tight tracks are often better with a lower-powered but more torquey engine.

And remember, there are .12s out there that put out more power than most .15s and .18s!

[slaf]

My track is short and tight this is why I think more powerfull engines are not the best in those conditions. In fact, an old .12CV could be enough :)

[doesgo]

You're probably right!

[gtracer32]

does any one no if the t4 front end will fit on a gt?

[gtracer32]

what are yall running any ways i got a ftgt w/ .15 os cvr with odonel head for bashing, and a dynamite .12 spd for racing ( its a small tight track) ae rpm tuned pipe hg aluminum hub carriers and mx3s radio

[slaf]

I run/race RC10GT RTR with stock engine, Factory blue header and pipe, MIP CVD, venom failsafe, HPI hump pack, Futaba electronics, Proline holeshot T on 4 corners. I really love this truck :D :)

[bizaare69]

what difference does it make to get MIP CVD and can someone send a link to tower with the right set

[Fantom 15 gt]

I'm running a RB V15 turbo. The MIP CVD's will make your drivetrain smother and have less slop.

[Joe Brinduse]

I put a TRX 2.5 in my rc10gt it is nuts :D

[dog8spam]

That would be awesome! Personally I like more power because I dont race much, if I had the money to make my GT go stupid-fast I would. Right now I have an OS CV I got for $40 off ebay.
Joe- How fast does it go?

[Deadmeat]

does any one no if the t4 front end will fit on a gt?

Not without some modifications. Check out this site. They have done all the hard work for you.

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/gt-widening.htm

[rocknbil]

what difference does it make to get MIP CVD and can someone send a link to tower with the right set

They are more reliable, less prone to breakage, and provide more drive to the wheels without slop. They won't necessarily make you faster, but is the first thing I put in all my AE's.

If you have 1/4" axles, you need this set (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX35&P=7), or this set (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX36&P=7) for the 3/16" axles (and if you bought it in the last year - it will be 3/16".) You're going to get them cheaper from RCBoyz on ebay or their website - here's the black 1/4" ones (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0,10154,10279,11753&pi_id=11755), black 3/16" ones (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0,10154,10279,11753&pi_id=11759), and shiny 3/16" ones (http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0,10154,10279,11753&pi_id=11756).

[KanaiDude]

I had the 3/16 axles and bought the 1/4 inch rpm hubs by accident, so then I bought some shiny 1/4 axles there pretty solid, but make sure you pay close attention to the 3/16 and 1/4 marking and buy the right ones for your rear wheels to. Just thought i'd throw in my 2cents I battled with this for some time LOL...

[Joe Brinduse]

That would be awesome! Personally I like more power because I dont race much, if I had the money to make my GT go stupid-fast I would. Right now I have an OS CV I got for $40 off ebay.
Joe- How fast does it go?
i dont no for a 100% but around 60 or so

[rocknbil]

... I bought some shiny 1/4 axles there pretty solid, but make sure you pay close attention to the 3/16 and 1/4 marking ...

Kanai - I've got one GT with 1/4", one with 3/16", and two 10T's with 1/4", and while I tend to agree with you there's one thing that makes the 3/16" better: you can put the thicker rear wheel bearings in the hubs. The 1/4" axles require those thin-wall bearngs, and while I've never had problems with those many claim to burn them up pretty quickly.

The other thing is us 1/4" axle guys can drill out any 3/16" rims and use them just fine. :D

[Fantom 15 gt]

You've also got to remember RPM hub carries use larger bearings then normal stock bearings.

[gtracer32]

joe i had a 2.5 in mine also 60mph is probly a close bet it hauls but mine blew up on the 13th gallon of gas!

[slaf]

joe i had a 2.5 in mine also 60mph is probly a close bet it hauls but mine blew up on the 13th gallon of gas!

Do you race with your GT ?

[bizaare69]

k today i got payed and im gonna get the **** i need to get my beast up and running yay rocknbil im stoked i need a new pull start assembly and a new one way clutch and some gas then ill be ready :D i think i hope lol but ya ill let u know if i need help rocknbil lol man i love you lol jk ya so ill ttyl

[Joe Brinduse]

Do you race with your GT ?
no just run it for fun.there are 3 of us that put the 2.5 trx in a rc10gt and we race each other.

[gtracer32]

yes at the local track

[bizaare69]

I went to my lhs and the guy went outta town to the western canadian championships in red deer and he took all the associated and losi parts with him :( so he is back on tues.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

Gday mates

long time no post!

i hope ur gts are runnin along nicely.
i just got back from 7mths in Europe.
im just about to get sum fuel and a few hops and then gona take my gt out for a thrash.

i was wondering what you guys would consider a good allround mounted front tyres?

See ya in the soup..... well have a pee together :D

[Fantom 15 gt]

Welcome back! I'd recomend proline gladiators!

[rocknbil]

..i was wondering what you guys would consider a good allround mounted front tyres?
See ya in the soup..... well have a pee together :D

Aussies. Harumph. :D lol . . . WB man. What did you do in Europe, was it anything like Euro-Trip? :D

The Pro-line Edge is pretty good for anything on dirt, good cornering, nice bite, etc, but one run on the pavement and they're toast.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

hehe thanks bil, mate
cheers fantom ill lok into it mate maybe ill get both just to make u boys :o happy

hey is the bearings i need for the front 3/16 x 3/8 x 1/8?

any recomended bearings for that?
whats new in the life of Bil?

[MonsterBlazer#1]

OMG i cant find any mounted edge's for gt on tower :confused:

and bill i went to denmark for a bit of travel and to study the female anatomy :p

hey dudes.. ive got team blue star ali shoc towers now and i was wondering if its worth crossing over to the graphite ones?
has any1 got them and what do u they think about them. also would the t4 front raphite tower fit on the gt?

[rocknbil]

. . . to denmark for a bit of travel and to study the female anatomy
So it was EXACTLY like Euro-Trip then. :D LOL

As for the Team Blue Star Towers . . .

Bent them, didn't you?

:D

My wife is a killer for air-time on her GT, I've bent her T.B.S. rears back into shape quite a few times, but only the rears. The fronts seem to hold up pretty well, so I'd say yes, for the rear at least, graphite's a way better choice, with a solid trinity tranny brace (oh wait, I think you already have that lol . . . .)

I don't think the Pro-Line Edge's come mounted, you'll have to do it yourself. When you do, be sure to drill at least two 1/8" holes on the insides of the rims to let the air out on landings. Glad's are great for rears, but if you want to do some serious dirt works, a double-step pin on a loamy surface, a fuzzy on a hard one, soft compunds both, but they wear pretty quickly.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

na actually i havent bent the team blue star towers....

can any1 tell me if the bearings i need in the front(as incidently the rears) are 3/16 x 3/8 x 1/8, and a good quality bearing brand i should buy them in?

this is outragous!!! i cant find any rims that specify they are for rc10gt! ***??
would these fit?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDW23&P=7

cheers

[rocknbil]

That is a ten-four, good buddy. Anything for the T2 or up is the same animal.

And I **think** those are right for the AE front bearings, but as you know I am flippin' old and well . . . hate to remember it wrong . . hehe . . .tell you what, go to AE's site, look at their catalogs. ANY AE truck front is identical, electric, nitro - same thing. Pretty sure you got it right, but that's the best bet.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

thanks Bil mate

i just looked in my manual,
i must say that im rather impressed that u can type just about any item id number from the GT's manual into their search and ull get what u want.
rather time saving!

Heres what i ended up ordering

Trinity Aluminum Tranny Brace 10GT 21.99
2xAssociated Rubber Sealed Bearings 3/16x3/8" 5.79 11.58
Pro-Line Pro-95 M2 Edge Front 2.2" (2) 16.99
Great Planes Pro CA+ Glue 2 oz. Medium 6.49
O.S. 101/102 Elements (6) 8.49
MIP Super Differential Rebuild Kit RC10GT 9.99
Associated Throttle Pivot Aluminum 1.90
Associated Stealth Spur Gear Screws (4) 1.45
Associated Ball Cup Dust Cover (28) 1.90
Associated Throttle Lever AE .15 2.39
RPM Receiver Box Blue GT 9.49
Associated Universal Roll Pin T2 (4) .95 1.90
Associated Universal Shim T2 (14) 1.45
2xAssociated Precision Balls 5/64" (6) 1.90
Pro-Line Front Velocity Dish 2.2" T2/3 Yellow (2) 7.19
Associated Stealth Black Grease 2.39
Associated Drive Shaft Roll Pin Gas .95

this thread used to be busy as... whats happened?
rc10gt goin outa fashon?

[rocknbil]

Nah lots of kids are back in school up here, or their parents are busy sending them off. Or attending school conferences. hehe.

Hey one thing missing, a must have, or maybe you already do. The Ofna throttle linkage is one of the smoothest 'ups for a GT. Back up a few pages on this thread, there's a pretty good discussion on it. let me see if I can find it . . .

EDIT: I'm baaaaaaaack . . hehe . . here it is (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145882&page=26&pp=25). :D

[Budman_222]

This is the blue one. there's red, blue, yellow,orange, and purple.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBM06&P=7

Well worth the money.

[bizaare69]

i went to the hobby shop and got them to order my pieces but it will take lik 1 1/2 weeks to 2 weeks till then get in :(

I ordered
One way (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAYY5&P=0)

assembly (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAYY7&P=0)

[rocknbil]

Why didn't you just have your parents or someone order them off tower for you?

[MonsterBlazer#1]

yea usually cheeper and in this case, faster

[bizaare69]

Yea i would of but my mom dont have a credit card and my dad is in ireland. im also located up in canada here so thats the reason it takes longer for my hobby shop uc. i dont mind really

[dizzyup1313]

ok here is the scoop, i just got a rc10gt that is prolly 7-8 years old, and it has an O.S. CZ-RX engine in it, well....when i first got it, i tried to start it and it eventually started maybe after 10-15 pulls, so i took it to my workshop area, and i took it all apart and cleaned almost everything, but i didnt touch the adjustments on the engine....well i put it all back together and took it out to try it and it started but didnt run to well, like it would start up right away (most of the time on the first or second pull ) but once it was started, i would give it gas and then it would almost instantly just cut out. so i fiddled with the needles alittle bit , and i managed to get it running for a little bit and i drove it around, and it was extremely fun ( my first nitro r/c ) but then i put it away because it was getting late. today i took it out again to run it, and i cant get it started for the life of me, one time i got it to start up but there was no exhaust and it sounded like it was really boging down, and it was spitting ALOT of fuel out the exhaust pipe, which was also happening when i yanked on the pull start. Soooooo i would really like some help on getting this beast started....it is getting really agrivating, oh and im using traxxas top fuel 20%....thanks in advance, i really wanna drive this thing...

[Deadmeat3344]

sounds like the engine is waaaaaaay too rich. try turnng both the high and low speed needles clockwise. tyhey need to be much leaner.

:edit: are u sure the engine isnt new? it might need to be broken in.
also try using either blue thunder, or trninity monster horsepower, better fuels.

[dog8spam]

I wouldnt adjust the low speed, always get the high speed adjusted first, then the low speed. By leaning the low speed also you may make it idle fine, but when you hit the gas it bogs down and quits. The low speed hardly ever changes also, I never have to adjust it unless I change something on the engine like the pipe.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

dizzyup, add me to msn if u have it and ill discuss it with you if you want.
msn: neilmichelson@hotmail.com

[offroadcrazy01]

How to Keep Your Engine Running Cool
By Jack Johnson
Tips and tricks on how to get maximum engine performance! As most of you are already aware, a key factor in finishing races or extending your leisure time with any fuel-powered vehicle is keeping the engine running. Fuel-powered cars and trucks are very durable these days. Ending a session due to a broken part is far less common than the dreaded flame-out. Engine temperature is very important in keeping the engine running for long periods of time. The ideal temperature range for .12- to .15-size engines is 220 to 260 degrees. Optimum temperature range for .21-size engines is a bit lower, around 210 to 250 degrees. If you find that your engine is running hotter than this, keep reading; some of the following pointers are sure to help you. If you don’t have access to a temperature gauge, but keep suffering from engine flame-outs, these tips can still help you keep your engine running—and running cooler!Free and EasyJust as in electric-powered vehicles, but for a bit of a different reason, the drivetrain of the vehicle should be as free as possible. Blown bearings, rubbing axles, or any other drag in the drivetrain will result in increased engine temperature, not to mention less top speed. The drivetrain should be maintained regularly. Any damaged or seized bearings should be repaired or replaced. Any moving parts rubbing on other components should be corrected by adding clearance. Basically, the more free the drivetrain, the better. A smooth drivetrain can go quite a ways in reducing engine temperature.The right “Go-Go Juice”It is very important to only use fuels specifically formulated for use in R/C cars. Fuels for R/C airplanes just won’t work. Due to the fact that car engines are nested in the center of the vehicle, allowing for very little airflow, different types and percentages of oils are required in the fuel to keep temperatures lower. A few common brands of fuels available are O’Donnell, Trinity, Blue Thunder, and Byron Originals. All of the top fuels are very good.For .12- to .15-size engines, 20-percent fuel works well. A higher nitro content could be used, but the end result would likely be too much horsepower and increased engine temperatures. For .21-size engines, 30-percent is the most common. Again, a higher nitro content could be used, but the engine will run a bit hotter. There is really no reason to run higher than 20-percent for .12- to .15-size and 30-percent on .21-size engines.Be PatientProbably the most common mistake made when tuning engines is not waiting until the engine is warmed up. If you attempt to tune an engine immediately after starting it, the engine will run very hot. The reason for this is that as the engine warms up, the tune will become leaner. Less fuel flow (leaner tune) can increase top speed a bit, but the engine will run much hotter as a result.If racing, try to start your engine a few minutes before the start of your warm-up session. This will get the engine up to temperature and allow you to tune it during warm-up. If you are not racing, simply run your vehicle for three or four minutes before attempting to tune the engine. Adjusting the needle valves (both high- and low-speed needles) while the engine is up to temperature will produce a much more consistent tune and help keep the engine running cooler overall. You will notice that a properly tuned engine will run a bit rich immediately after starting it—prior to warming up.Adjusting the NeedlesThe easiest way to adjust the needle valves is to start with the high-speed needle. You will want the engine to “clean out” on the long straightaway. Once you have the engine running good at high speed, with little to no “gurgle,” it’s time to take a look at the low-speed needle.The low-speed needle has the most impact on the overall engine temperature. As the vehicle slows down, and airflow is reduced, the only means the engine has to stay cool is the fuel flowing through it. This low-speed fuel flow is controlled by the low-speed needle. You should see a good deal of smoke coming from the pipe during acceleration. If there is little to no smoke you should richen the low-speed needle setting by turning it counterclockwise. If the engine tends to run-on or rev up at the end of a straight after backing off of the throttle, the low-speed needle is too lean and needs to be richened up. As a final test, try letting the vehicle idle for 10 to 15 seconds and grab full throttle. The vehicle should accelerate with little hesitation. If the engine starves for fuel, you need to richen the low-speed needle. If the engine chokes on too much fuel, or spits excessive fuel out of the pipe, you should lean out the low-speed needle a bit.Once you are comfortable with the low-speed needle setting, run the vehicle for a minute or so. Check the temperature. If the temperature is a bit high, richen the low-speed needle. Run for another minute or so and check again. Remember those magic temperature ranges: 220 to 260 degrees for .12- to .15-size and 210 to 250 degrees for .21-size engines. Try to adjust the low-speed needle to allow your engine to fall within these ideal ranges.Mama Needs a New Pair of ShoesA frequently overlooked area which can also increase engine temperature is the clutch. If the clutch is engaging too soon, the engine will bog and temperatures will rise. Another indication that the clutch is engaging too soon is a hesitation in acceleration. If the engine rpm rises and the vehicle start to move, then hesitates before continuing on, the clutch is engaging too soon.In order to force the clutch to engage later, you will need to lighten the clutch shoes. Techniques for this could span an entirely separate article. We’ll cover the basic concept here. It is recommended that you check with your local hobby shop or stop by a nearby track for some guidance with this adjustment.The gist of the idea is to remove a bit of clutch shoe material from the area of the clutch shoe not contacting the clutch bell. This will cause the clutch to engage later—once the engine reaches higher rpm. The end result of this adjustment is less engine bog and, as an added bonus, reduced engine temperatures. The vehicle may also benefit from quicker acceleration.

[powerstroke01]

GRR.. Blew teh motor in my GT last week.. It was the Picco .12.... I was racing and rolled in a turn. Corner marshal picked the car up and when he did he stepped on the antenna and ripped it from the reciever. Causeing the motor to go WOT. He had no clue what he was doing and did nothing to stop the truck. Didnt even say he was sorry or anything. NOTHING. Im not going to race in another race if hes cornering. This isnt the first time hes done something like that either.

Anyways. Does anyone here know where i can get a rod for a picco .12 RC Speed? Ive got a new P/S but no rod. The motor only had 3/4 of a gallon on it. And i had just bought a new $50 cooling head for it and it just got here today. :( Im broke so another race motor is out of the question. Might have to sell the gt. :(

[MonsterBlazer#1]

OMG DUDE
what an A Hole!!
so he stuffed your motor and maybe ur rx??
dude why didnt u hit the S.O.B
if some ignorant little girl scout did that to my gt id rip him to pieces and make him replace it all.

Id make a complaint and then beat him up!... seriously...

[powerstroke01]

OMG DUDE
what an A Hole!!
so he stuffed your motor and maybe ur rx??
dude why didnt u hit the S.O.B
if some ignorant little girl scout did that to my gt id rip him to pieces and make him replace it all.

Id make a complaint and then beat him up!... seriously...
I know i should have. lol
Id like to keep racing at my track though :o

Im sure it was an accident but still... :(

[rocknbil]

powerstroke the difference between being a positive force in this hobby and a negative one is all in how you handle it. Sure I'd have been wigged too, and I've recently blown a Picco so I know how it hurts, but here are some facts:

1. You enter into a race knowing that that anything can happen by the end of the day, and you accept that risk. A plane can fall out of the sky, crush your RC, and all you're left with is askng "why me?" :D

2. You know as well as I do there are lots of people who don't have a clue in this hobby. It's up to us that know at least a LITTLE bit about it to guide them to being the half-decent racers that give us a run for our time and money.

3. Conversely, there are lots of bungholios. The only way to defeat them at their own game is to set the example of what a GOOD racer should do.

If I were in your shoes, I'd first (politely) explain the consequences of his actions, and what it means to you. He probably didn't say anything out of fear you'd do just what has been said, he probably expected you to go off on him. After that, ask him if he needs a little help, and show him by example the right way to flip a car.

If he turns out to be the bungholio in #3 (Ah screw yoooo, doan' tell me howta marshull) then you spread the news among your racing community, beginning with whoever is running the races. What goes around, comes around, it won't take long. :D

[MonsterBlazer#1]

yea uve got some points bill but id still atleast yell at him a little for not even oppologising!
...altho im kinda an agressive guy :P

[powerstroke01]

Yeah I know that just about anything can happen! :D
Thats the nature of the sport.
And you have some good points Bill..:D

[sofast]

Official rc10gt pimp. Just bought one a few days ago, I guess Ill post mods and pics here as they happen lol.

see ya

[MonsterBlazer#1]

cool, be ncie to see them.
id be postin pics of mine but i can never get them to the rite size n stuff..

[rc3max]

hi,

I have a starter box for the TC3/RC10 GT. It is currently set up for the tc3. Does anyone know how to set it up for the RC10 GT?


Thanks in advance...

[rocknbil]

Old . . .age . . foggy . . memory . . . thinking . . . :D


As I recall the engine in the NTC3 is oriented with the flywheel turning ACROSS the chassis, not along the length, correct? (I 'spose I could look it up . . anyway . . .) If this is the case, does your starter box have an "L"-shaped slot in the top? If it does, it's a "universal" box. You need to open it up and you should see where you can unbolt the motor mount bracket (or motors, if it's a dualie) and turn it 90º so that the starter box wheel is oriented along the LENGTH of the starter box, not sideways. Then you set your pegs and you're good to go.

[rc3max]

It is a universal (#1750, Team Associated Starter Box). However, team associated sells the instruction cd for about $8 + Shipping. I'm trying to find it on the net but no luck. I've spent hours trying to align this thing...

[powerstroke01]

It is a universal (#1750, Team Associated Starter Box). However, team associated sells the instruction cd for about $8 + Shipping. I'm trying to find it on the net but no luck. I've spent hours trying to align this thing...
Its a PITA!! I did it a few months ago but i cant remember how it goes.. :(

[59HemiHearse]

Does anyone know if AE has a new GT in the works? I just killed mine (lost signal and went WOT into a tree) so I want to know if I should replace all the broken parts (chassis, nose tubes, mounts, fuel tank, transmission housing, radio box, etc, etc...) or if I should wait for a new GT and just go for a new truck and put my just broken in 12cvr in it. Oh, and sorry I haven't been around in a long time, lots of things been going on, and i just got the truck out a few weeks ago. I guess I could always go back to running my first GT with the white A-Arms, lol. No, I'd be too afraid of hurting it.

Thanks for any and all responses,
Hemi

[slaf]

Does anyone know if AE has a new GT in the works? I just killed mine (lost signal and went WOT into a tree) so I want to know if I should replace all the broken parts (chassis, nose tubes, mounts, fuel tank, transmission housing, radio box, etc, etc...) or if I should wait for a new GT and just go for a new truck and put my just broken in 12cvr in it. Oh, and sorry I haven't been around in a long time, lots of things been going on, and i just got the truck out a few weeks ago. I guess I could always go back to running my first GT with the white A-Arms, lol. No, I'd be too afraid of hurting it.

Thanks for any and all responses,
Hemi

I heard that AE will release a new GT but don't know when....:( Maybe this spring.

[Fantom 15 gt]

Here you go monsterblazer, a nice aussie gt..

[MonsterBlazer#1]

very nice fantom!
got msn? add me
neilmichelson@hotmail.com
well trade further pix :D

[Fantom 15 gt]

Sorry mate don't have msn.. You can Email me if you want... P.M me for detailes...

[EldarO]

Well, about 2 weeks ago, i started my nitro, and rc10gt journey at the same time, bought off "Kenny T" (in these forums) for $#50 aussie dollars, RTR upgraded chassis, RPM ball cups, RPM A Arms etc.etc.

Well, all i have to say, is about 600 swear words, all emphasising the fact that this is one WICKED truck, it has a 12 cvx in it, pullstart removed, so really, its a cv, running on a starter box.

Whats really exciting is, that i just dropped a 12 cv-r into it, which was bought for $40, from Kenny T, again, ive been dremeling at 10 pm and the parents havent woken up, thank god, eveything fits, its looking pretty, should be good for my run tomorrow, only problem is, i got no batteries to run the truck :(

off to LHS :D

B.T.W. This hobby is not for the faint of heart, ive poured money down the drain (having prviously owned an OB4). But, once you have it set up nice, theres really no cost, except fuel. WELL WORTH IT :D

[bizaare69]

In Just got my parts in yesterday :D but i dont have any fuel :( i gotta wait till friday to get some fuel cause its payday or my momma will hook me up with a little loan so i donno illtalk to you guys later peace

[EldarO]

Well, i went down to the LHS which happens to be the cheapest Hobby shop in the whole of Australia, good ol' RMS :D

bout a venom hump pack for $25

bought it back.... well, i dont have a charger, so Kenny T did help me out, and chargered the beast, meanwhile i ran it on a set of 4 energiser lithium batteries, the photo kind.

I put about 3 tanks through the 12 cvr, and oh my god, turning while accelerating about.... half throttle, maybe a bit more, caused massive balloning of the inside wheel, which isnt good, but meh, as long as it runs.

im very happy with the 12 cvr, and for the price, i dont think i made a mistake :D

Going for a full speed run tomorrow, (fuel permitting, have about 1 and a half tanks left :( )

12 CV-R RULES!

[rocknbil]

... turning while accelerating about.... half throttle, maybe a bit more, caused massive balloning of the inside wheel ...

The inside wheel appears to be ballooning because it's lifting off the ground and the differential action is diverting the force along the path of least resistance, the free wheel.

The idea is to keep all four wheels on the ground as much as possible - try putting one weight heaver spring UP FRONT. This will "push back" on the rear a bit and help keep it planted.

If you don't have springs to swap out, use heavier oil up front, that will at least slow down the roll.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

Gday again fellow GT'rs

ive got the xtra soft silver spring on my gt but im wondering what u all run on yours? i think the silver is fine for the front but i need maybe reds on the back?

[Fantom 15 gt]

If your bashin' throw on the Reds. I'm running Red front/Gold rear.

[rocknbil]

Depends on the surface. If it's really bumpy and most of it is flat run with only a few jumps, silvers are OK, but you'll bottom out on some of the bigger jumps. Heavier springs will compensate, but on the higher speed runs and bumpy areas it will become a little skittish. I do ok with blue fronts red rears, but like I say it varies depending on what you're running on.

It's good to have a full set on hand (http://www.teamassociated.com/newprod/1580_springs.htm). :D

[bizaare69]

HEy everybody. alright heres the situation bil this is were i need you. ok i got my fuel now and my parts are on. so it starts up pretty good but it has trouble idling sometimes it will clog out so when i start to hear it try to bog out i push the throttle which makes it bog harder then it revs up. it seems i have to keep it at a high speed for it to stay running. im hoping this is just a speed needle setting or maybe a carb any help would be awesome. thnx in advance

Shane

Edit: ow ya after i run it a bit and if it stalls it wont start up agin right away only if i let it sit for a little while

[MonsterBlazer#1]

sounds like shes a little rich mate

[ntc3_1337]

How fast do the RC10Gt's go!!!!!!!!!! ready to run

[MonsterBlazer#1]

ntc3 ur in perth right?
wana meet up for a bash someday soon?

[ntc3_1337]

I have a nitro rc10gt. I am having problems with starting it up. I believe I am doing everything right but I don't know why it is having trouble starting. Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks!!!!

[ntc3_1337]

help

[millzy555]

Make sure you check that your glow plug and glow plug igniter are both working and flaming orange. IF you have done this make sure you prime your engine enough. Engines are simple they need fuel, something to ignite them and oxygen

[MonsterBlazer#1]

just took the gt for a burn at the local footy field, im not sure weather the front is to hard or the bak is to soft or a combination of the both but at top sleep if i turn for a fair bit it isnt very responsive, ive made the front softer and im going to get the whole front and back associated truck shock spring set and put reds on the bak

[powerstroke01]

Can i use a rear exhaust engine on the GT?

[MonsterBlazer#1]

with the right header yea

[microrcdude]

you will need this to run a rear exaust:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUH6&P=7

[powerstroke01]

hmmm. Im looking at the OS .12TR as a replacment motor. $130 at Tower.. Looks like a good motor..

[doesgo]

I know a few guys running the TR in their GTs and Losis and they really like it! That's probably what I'll be buying for next season as well.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

yea i was contemplating it but ill just save a fair bit and justget a rb and basicaly every hop available :)

[rocknbil]

I don't know why it is having trouble starting. Does anyone have any suggestions.

Welcome aboard man! :D

Usually the problem is over-priming for beginners. You really just need to bring the fuel up to the carb and maybe one or two more cranks. Verify this, and that the glow plug is glowing nice and bright - remove it and put it in the glow starter to check. Also remove the air filter (PUT IT BACK ON WHEN DONE, never EVER run without it) and make sure that at the idle position, the carb opening is at least 1-2mm, about the thickness of a credit card. Lastly check your engine manual for factory specs on the high and low needle settings, but don't be afraid to adjust at least the high speed needle to get it running - the factory spec is a STARTING point, and is rarely where you need to be. Tuning the engine is something you'll need to do every time you run.

That's the short story, read this article too:
Get Your Engine Started Every Time (http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/get_enginestart.asp)

.... it starts up pretty good but it has trouble idling sometimes it will clog out so when i start to hear it try to bog out i push the throttle which makes it bog harder then it revs up. ... ow ya after i run it a bit and if it stalls it wont start up agin right away only if i let it sit for a little while

OK two problems, easy ones (I think.) The first indicates too rich at the low end, but only if it's fully warmed up, and the second indicates it might be running too lean at the high end, causing it to run a little hot, so when it stops it's hard to restart - or it might just be the way your engine runs.

I know this is contradictory but think about it: when you start it it's rich, but once it's warmed up, it leans itself out. The higher engine temperature accellerates the vaporization, causing the fuel mixture to burn leaner. On the first problem - if you let it warm up does it still bog out like this? Or just when you first start it?

If it's just when you first start it, and after it runs for a while and is good and warm it idles and goes fine from a dead stop, LEAVE THE LOW SPEED SETTINGS ALONE. This is normal, and demonstrates for you that you should never re-tune until you're up to running temp. If it still does it when it's warm though, lean out (clockwise, in,) the low speed needle setting just a few ticks at a time - like 1/16 of a turn - giving it a few minutes in between adjustments to let the engine settle in to the new setting before deciding it didn't work.

As for the restart problem - this is sometimes normal, and all that's required is a quarter-to-half enrich turn on the HSN JUST to get it started, then when it's running lean it back to where it was. You can **try** enriching (counterclockwise, out) the high speed needle just a tad, like 1/8 turn at a time or so, and leaving it there for the overall run. In doing so, keep in mind you're also enriching the low speed setting, so if you leaned the LSN out, after enriching the HSN you'll probably need to lean the LSN again just a touch.

Whatever you do, take CAREFUL CAREFUL NOTE of where you were before you started twisting and turning so you can set it back to where it was, or even go the other way if it's wrong.

[bizaare69]

ya i was running it yesterday it was running ok bogging out only sometime but i still think something is wrong with that clutch u suggested because the wheels spin pretty fast when i start it up or could that just be my brake? but now it seems to bog out when i push on the brake cause i can get it to idle now so im thinking if the clutch isnt engaging and i push the brake it slows down the motor and stalls it what can i do to take a look at it to figure it out whether that is my problem or not. when im running i can push the brake a bit but i just cant take it to a complete stop. so any tips would help thnx.

[rocknbil]

Did you ever get an MIP clutch or is it still stock?

IF it's an MIP- go over the instructions, unless it's revving REALLY high it shouldn't spin much at all.

If it's a stock - the wheels WILL spin as it has no springs, and the shoes will always be in slight contact with the ground. The only way around this is to get it to idle as low as you can.

We're on another issue though, which has nothing to do with the ones in your last post. That is - if you hit the brake, it **should** cause the engine to slow down but VERY SLIGHTLY- if it's dragging it down enough to stall it, check the clutch bearings. If it's got bushings, oil them (just a little!) but if the bearings are hanging up, this will cause it to stall the engine.

Slide the e-clip off the clutch and check out the bearings/bushings if you haven't already. Then twiddle with the idle, see if you can get it to idle down even more.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

play with ur brake settings mate tighten up the read nut of the 2 nuts on the brake cam bar.
and second of all you say the wheels spin??
uhm i always start my car with the wheels on the ground. it doesn some nasty stuff reving an engine without load, not recomended mate. what engine are u running?

[powerstroke01]

What stainless screw kit do you guys like? I think im gonna get teh RC Screwz kit but its 5 bucks for shipping.. :(

[beetlebz]

first off, w00t! a GT thread! now i can die happy.

powerstroke, i use alum screws because they are relatively cheap and easy to dremmel out when they strip. ive actually broken screw heads off using stainless, and that was a freakin headache. i needed a new engine mount :O

the alum will just dent or bend, and the heads can strip. yes they can be a headache, but not as much as breaking a stainless screw. i havnt tried the titanium screws yet, i cant justify spending that much on screws lol

maybe its been said, but bizzare, it sounds like your LSN is too lean. i could be wrong though. maybe an air leak?

[powerstroke01]

first off, w00t! a GT thread! now i can die happy.

powerstroke, i use alum screws because they are relatively cheap and easy to dremmel out when they strip. ive actually broken screw heads off using stainless, and that was a freakin headache. i needed a new engine mount :O

the alum will just dent or bend, and the heads can strip. yes they can be a headache, but not as much as breaking a stainless screw. i havnt tried the titanium screws yet, i cant justify spending that much on screws lol

maybe its been said, but bizzare, it sounds like your LSN is too lean. i could be wrong though. maybe an air leak?
There are some screws that i have that are aluminum and some are hardened steal. Id just like to get some stainless ones.. :dunno:

[beetlebz]

just get spares, and pray you dont snap one off in the tranny case or the motor mount :)

[MonsterBlazer#1]

ive got stainless and im happy with them hey, just make sure u get a good grade of stainless steal screws and IMO ul be set :)

[beetlebz]

got a recommendation for a screw kit monsterblazer? or a manufacturer? i might consider trying it if i have any cash left over after i get new rims n rubber to replace those i burned up this week lol

[KanaiDude]

I like RC screwz have two sets for my 1/8 scale and one for my GT, a touch pricey but you get a nice case, it's a nice package. Most importantly get yourself some quality hex drivers, bad hex wrenches will ruin screws in a snap.

[aeb3man_44]

Hey Guys,

this is the rtr gt i got for 25 dollars

yes.. 25 bucks

it is in great shape i am just having trouble starting the engine

tips and info would be greatly appriciated

thanks

[slaf]

25$ It's a deal :) What's wrong with your engine ?

[aeb3man_44]

idk, it isnt starting, and everthing in it seems ok to me.

[doesgo]

Wanna double your money? :)

[aeb3man_44]

no thanks, i really want this thing started, it looks like loads of fun

[MonsterBlazer#1]

@beetlebz, kanaidude is right, id recomend them too :)

[beetlebz]

yeah, i actually hauled out an old tackle box i had thats PERFECT for rc tools. now im going to see if i can scrape up enough cash to actually fill it with the hudy profi drivers. :D

aeb3man, check out the manual online (i think rc10gthobby.com has it downloadable) and make sure the engines carb is set where it should be for first start up. it LOOKS like the original engine, but make sure its stamped AE somewhere on it. if its a different make engine, find the manual for it :)

now a question of my own....
im using the rpm tuned pipe on my GT, and the FT pull start header, on an OS CVR .12. im using the wire mount for it (where the tip of the muffler slides over the wire and is held on by a set screw) and it sticks out so far to the side that the body wont fit over it (stock RTR body). the problem is, if i loosen the set screw and slide it in further, it blocks the path of the pull start rope. also worth mention, is its the RTR body, on the longer FT chassis.

is it just a bad fit? i know its the NTC3 muffler, but it should still work fine i would think. any thoughts?

[MonsterBlazer#1]

aeb3man

dude see your airfilter?
i may be mistaken but it looks like that element should be white not black :P start there...

[beetlebz]

wow, and yet im still astonished that i missed that lol

monsterblazer may just be right. wash your air filter elements with some dish washing liquid and let them try completely. once dry rub a tiny bit of air filter oil in em and put em back in. should help some.

[beetlebz]

bttt, i still need some insight into my ill fitting body :(

id like to get it figured out so i can start shopping for a body that will fit. i talked to my LHS guy today and hes going to paint it for me, but i need to find out why my current body doesnt fit first!

[dirtbike]

how did you get that gt for $25

[aeb3man_44]

well my friend got it from my other friend for only $10, that was giving it away basically

and it needed a pull start so he bought one

he didnt want it because he couldnt start it , so i gave him 25 bucks for it

[MonsterBlazer#1]

score!

[rocknbil]

this is the rtr gt i got for 25 dollars...

Geeze for $25 we should make you pay US for advice. :D

Right off the top I can see:

- get at least an 8" pressure line from exhaust to tank, click here for example (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html)

- Lose the pot metal turnbuckles and camber links, get AE team or Lundsford punisher titaniums

- OFNA throttle linkage, back up through this thread there's a large discussion on it

- I'm guessing it's an older RTR, so go through the tranny and drive train and get rid of all the bushings, put in bearings, and get at least 4 clutch bearings so you have a spare set

- Can't see - dogbones in rear? Replace with MIP CVD's, and make sure you get the right ones. If it's an older one, it will have 1/4" axles, newer ones 3/16", take the wheels off to see. This also affects what bearings you get, the rear bearings are different.

- Steel or titanium top tranny brace.

- You will need spring sets, I suggest getting full sets of fronts and rears - they come in different weights, if you get the sets you'll be able to expirament with the whole range. Silvers are pretty light.

That is the first time I've seen a side-access tank on a GT, that must be an NTC3 tank. You can replace the tank, which normally opens to the front or back, and will be able to refuel without pulling the body.

Dass all ya get fer free. :D

[aeb3man_44]

wow, thanks a million rocknbil ill have to look into those things

that info is worth more than what i bought my car for

you get it!

sike!

[beetlebz]

worth mentioning, most people when they get CVDs, go to 3/16 axles, even if they started with 1/4". the bearings for the 3/16ths axles are physically bigger, and thus more durable than the thinner ball bearings that go around the 1/4" axles. they tend to hold up better, shave a TAD bit of weight, and are just as strong. ive run both sizes and never broke either one, so going to the smaller size is easy and free (if you were getting bearings anyway) and i havnt broken one yet!

[MonsterBlazer#1]

well guys, just 3 weeks after buying hop ups for the gt ive constructed what i think is the list to end my hop up wanting, it would be nice if u could sugest any improvements on them and recomendations for certain items, cheers

Mip zero maintenance steering rc10gt
Lunsford Racing Turnbuckle/Hinge Kit RC10T2/GT
Trinity servo mounts
RPM heavy duty rod ends blue
titanium Screw set
Mip shiny cvds
Associated Ali shock caps
titanium Chasis
MIP Lite Drive RC10T2/GT (2)
Mip ubtanium shock shaft
Racer's Edge CVD Boots
Crescenzi GT Brake System
Trinity Aluminum Heavy Duty Lower Trans Brace RC10GT
RPM Carriers w/BallBearing RC10GT
Associated Factory Team Truck/Buggy Rear Spring Kit(10)
Associated Factory Team Truck/Buggy front Spring Kit(10)
RPM Wide Front Bumper Blue 10GT
Lunsford Racing Titanium Shock Mount RC10GT (4)
Lunsford Racing Titanium Front Axle B3/T3 (2)
Lunsford Racing 1/10 Titanium Ball Studs Long (2) X6
RRP Ti top shaft
RRP alloy main diff gear
RRP steal idler gear
OFNA blue throttle linkage kit
Closed ends?
Shocks + piggybacks
Rpm Hi-Impact Spindle Blocks for the B3 & T3

i have atm:

Team Associated Factory Team kit
KO PROPO EX-1 Mars FM tx
RPM neon blue bulk head
RPM front neon blue a-arms
RPM rear neon blue a-arms
RPM lower shock spring cups
RPM upper spring clamps
RPM blue 3-degree rear mounts
RPM black 3mm nylon nuts
RPM Receiver Box Blue GT
Team Blue Star rear aluminium shock tower
Team Blue Star front aluminium shock tower
MIP 4-n-1 clutch
MIP Blue shock seals
Robinson Racing clutch-bell
Novak XXL FM Receiver
Cirrus Hi-torque metal geared steering servo
Team shock set
OS 102 air filter
Stainless Steal screw kit
Full ball bearings
OFNA failsafe
Associated Blue anodized rear wheel nuts
Associated Rubber Sealed Bearings 3/16x3/8"
Associated Precision Balls 5/64"
Trinity Aluminum Tranny Brace 10GT
Trinity tube mounts

[rocknbil]

So did you hit the lottery or what? :D


Mip zero maintenance steering rc10gt
I personally Would Not Do This. The stock steering has a built-in servo saver that works great. Although the MIP has bearings, you'll have to use an on-servo servo saver, and that makes for a sloppy steering setup, IMO. What you gain in "smoothness" you lose in using an on-servo saver, I've never liked them much.

Closed ends?
Ditto here, the ball ends are there for a reason. I'd rather they pop off than drive a hard hit into the towers/susp. parts and break a ball end, or rip it out of the shock tower. Keep at least one end of every 'buckle a ball cup.

[beetlebz]

the lite drives are nice, but i found i get dirt caked in there and they are just one more thing to clean. i drove my buddies rc10gt before and after, and i didnt notice a huge improvement. but, although it wasnt much, it was definitely an improvement. it also could have been just new diff rings that did it though lol

ive never heard a strong arguement for alu shock caps. its rare to strip a nylon one, and they are cheap enough to replace.

i looked at the RPM rear carriers and bearings. bottom line, they are expensive, and while the bearings last longer, they are somthing like 20 bucks to replace. i can replace my 3/16x3/8s bearings for like, 10 bucks, rubber sealed.

the Ti chassis is nice, but you can ruin 4 factory team chassis before it pays for itself. thats alot of damage, assuming whatever caused the warping or damage wouldnt have damaged the Ti chassis too.

the crescenzi GT brake is AWESOME, although its semi inconsistant and needs adjustment from time to time. it mounts to the lower tranny brace, so make sure the trinity one will work with it.

the spring kits are nice, but you can save alot of money by just buying 1 pair of springs at a time. if your rear suspension is too soft, get the next color up. all in all that would cost you about 4 bucks. OTOH it is nice to have an assortment of springs on hand in case you head to a different track requiring a different setup.

the CVD boots are ESSENTIAL! you should get them at the same time as your CVDs. they cvds get gritty easily, and are a PITA to clean. the boots keep them clean AND keep the pin in place. that pin is a royal beeotch.

ive never run piggy back shocks, but i do know the factory team shocks for the T4 (threaded bodies) are hot. right now the closest you can get is to buy the TEAM shock kit (NOT factory team) and buy new bodies and shafts, which gets expensive. id just get the team shocks, or wait until they do the FT t4 shocks as a kit.

the Ti shock mounts should be a nice touch, let me know how they work.

the Ti front axles are great. i need to get a set. they are tough enough to use lock nuts on the front wheels without worrying about breaking the tip of the threads! (which is a pain if youve ever done it with the aluminum axles)

i second Bil's comments on the zero maint steering and closed ends.

RRP makes awesome stuff. i have the same gears as you do in the tranny, minus the Ti top shaft. i get about 7 seconds of free spin! :O just make sure you dab a bit of diff lube on the gears (A VERY LITTLE BIT!!) to keep wear down.

the servo mounts are cool and shave weight, and are more resistant to stripping than their nylon counterparts. OTOH, they are expensive. should get moved to the bottom of the list hehe

Ti turnbuckles are awesome. shave weight, super tough. nuff said.

if you did infact hit the lottery, order 3 of everything on your list. one for you, one for a spare, and one for me :D

[EldarO]

air filter came off jumping into sand pit, janded upside down, bastard, sleeve and piston are fine, but i CBF cleaning the bugger,

i have a question though, when i am eventually bored enough to clean it, any hints on getting sand out? flushing with what? and any hints on getting sand out of the bearings?

thanks guys :)

Eldar.O.

[beetlebz]

start with compressed air. it does wonders for blowing sand out. in conjunction with a stiff car parts brush or paint brush, it works like a charm. get the sand loose with the stiff brush and blow it away with the compressed air.

i have vERY sandy soil so i just made my own workbench blower tap for my 60g compressor lol oh and next time you replace your bearings, get rubber sealed. then it wont be an issue :)

[EldarO]

thanks for the help, i will when i get new bearings, but since its a $40 AUS engine, im not fussed, im just pissed because i need to use my CV for now, and the F#@*$#*(@NG spur gear is stripped, it takes a while to import american parts to aussie land :(

Eldar.O.

[KanaiDude]

I bought a porter cable side stack air compressor from amazon for 175 free shipping, you wouldn,t believe how clean my cars areat an almost constant 135psi!! I have a siphon attachment for it, use a bucket of mixed simple green and its like a car wash just take your motor and electronics off first.

[4DMNYC]

I just traded my cousin 2 15 turn venom motors and an LRP ESC for this, I planned on buying a factory team kit and using all the parts for this chassis and arms, what would you guys do?

[beetlebz]

first off, there is no FT kit. which is just as well, i dont like some of the FT parts.

are those aluminum arms? if so, sick. the car looks pretty well maintained, i think EVERYTHING i see there is far from stock. even the chassis. well, especially the chassis. that might make fitting stock factory team parts a pain.

well, assuming you have a good engine and tranny to plop into it, id just get the factory team tranny mount (it replaces that aluminum block just aft of the two larger oval cutouts) and will allow you to use a crescenzi GT brake system. from here the front shocks look like losi, but i could be wrong. i cant see any real detail. eitherway, just commenting. if they work well they work well. i think hopup wise, youre all set, although you may not like having aluminum arms. i tried em and didnt like em. the car just felt.... off. maybe sluggish isnt the right word... but .... off i guess.

might want to tweak out some of that front toe :O thats massive toe out lol

but yeah, engine, tranny, exhaust, rear bulkhead, rear shock tower, rear bumper. even if the batteries for the RX are mounted somewhere else, the rear bumper adds protection.

IF YOU DONT HAVE A TRANNY.... i would recommend the robinson racing metal gears, the stock top shaft is fine. just diff and idler gears. the MIP outdrives are ok too. kick up acceleration a little bit.

[beetlebz]

my truck (just to share)

os .12 CV-RX
RPM tuned exhaust (the NTC3 one, but it works great. tons of bottom.)
FT blue header
RPM rear arms
MIP 3/16th CVDs
carbon fiber front shock tower
RRP (robinson) diff gear and idler gear
FT blue chassis (long)
trinity aluminum tranny brace
stock RTR front shocks, 35wt, silver springs, with badass ubercool top of the line zip ties for preload :D

hopefully by tomorrow ill have new FT rear shocks (30wt, green springs) and by next week ill have 300 stainless screws to put on :D

[MonsterBlazer#1]

thanks for the tips before guys,
just went ovr to the park for a bash, it was a bit sluggish but i put it down to the weather, then i realised i had blown a CB bearing o bugger AY o well got spares. its the first thing to go wrong with my GT

[redheat8]

That truck needs some major help, RED :D

[beetlebz]

wiggy monsterblazer, my truck was sluggish today at the track too. then i noticed that when i hit the brakes there was a quiet squeak comming from the CB. turned out i DESTROYED a bearing, and it came out in pieces lol

my day at the track ended abruptly when i broke my steering servo :(

[4DMNYC]

Beetlebz,
Thanks for the info, yeah those are aluminum arms. The shocks are acually duratrax, and yeah I need to do some major toe adjusting.I thought it would be a good trade for two motors and an esc.I'll take your advise and get the parts you recomended, I should have some after pics to post by the end of the weekend.

[beetlebz]

hell yeah thats a good trade!
i can also recommend the crescenzi GT front and rear widening kit. the front kit basically uses new front axles and castor blocks to make the front end as wide as ROAR will allow. ive heard from many people that it makes the truck impossibly stable on rough track. the rear kit only widens the truck about 1/8th of an inch, but you get a special washer for the rear CVD axles (new CVD axles too) that allow the wheels to ride on the inner racer of the bearing rather than the hub itself, which means you can tighten down your rims a little better without binding the CVDs (slows the car down) and no more stripped rims :D

im gettin me some just as soon as i get my servo nightmare straightened out lol

[doesgo]

Sounds nice, but....how much?

[aeb3man_44]

i got my car started for a little bit but then i am stuck again, it wont start, i am about to crush it.

[beetlebz]

the widening kit? 18 bucks for the front kit, 18 bucks for the rear kit. the rear kit actually uses b4 CVD axles to get the extra width. 36 bucks to get a truck that handles the rough stuff a hundred times better, AND helps out with the rear bearings, keeping them from binding. its a beautiful thing.

[beetlebz]

aeb3man, im willing to bet 100 bucks that the engine is just WAY out of tune. do you have a local hobby shop that you can take it to to tune it up for you? one local LHS will do a full tune up for 20 bucks. MY lhs will do it for free if you ask nice :)

even if the engine is shot, its only 30 or 40 bucks to rebuild it, and im willing to bet its just WAY off tune. did you get the manual for the engine to reset it to factory presets?

[powerstroke01]

@#)%*#)(%* I just took my picco out of my truck. Theres a hole in the side of the case. :mad: SOOooo. The rod that i just spent months looking for and just bought and my extra p/s do me no good.
BUT the good news is that i just bought a brand new picco .12 rc speed off of ebay. Sooo. In turn the piston and sleave will work for that. But the extra rod is pointless.

Ahhh well. Another couple of weeks and ill be racing again.

[beetlebz]

you can buy crank cases for fairly cheap. i dunno about piccos, but OS cases are only like 30 bucks.

[powerstroke01]

you can buy crank cases for fairly cheap. i dunno about piccos, but OS cases are only like 30 bucks.
Ahah. I know. Finding one for this extinct motor is a problem though.. No big deal really. Ill prolly return the rod.
I dont know why i couldnt see the hole when it was in the truck. :dunno:

In other news the truck is completly torn apart waiting for new parts to arive. And the diff is shot after only 5 race nights. It was cleaned and regreased 2 times in that time. Gonna see if i can get an Mip kit..

Parts going in:
RPM Rear bulk
RC Screwz Kit
New Picco .12
New upgraded brakes.
And some other RPM stuff.
Dynamite Fail Safe

[beetlebz]

i assume you mean an MIP kit for the diff...

id check out the crescenzi diff kits. i havnt tried them yet, but from what i hear the kit is gods gift to GTs :)

[powerstroke01]

i assume you mean an MIP kit for the diff...

id check out the crescenzi diff kits. i havnt tried them yet, but from what i hear the kit is gods gift to GTs :)
Thats most likely the one ill get. I heard that lube is the best..

[beetlebz]

yeah dave includes his own diff lube and friction reducer. everyone ive talked to has RAVED about the friction reducer.

[jr_racing]

Hi, I'm new to this thread and am searching for information on my GT. Hope someone can help.

I have a MT .12 that is slightly used. I am getting it from a guy that lives in a higher altitude than myself. What is the factory settings for the carburator, or something close to factory settings.

Another question is............Would a 65t spur and a 17t clutch bell be a good set up for this truck for a track that has tight turns, and long straight-a-ways?

Thanks
jr

[rocknbil]

....SOOooo. The rod that i just spent months looking for and just bought and my extra p/s do me no good. .....

POWERSTROKE if you get this before you do anything PM me - is that a .12 picco RC Speed?

I need a rod and p/s for one of those. :D

PM me if you want to sell it.

Look at the engine on the left here (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html), is it that one?

Welcome aboard jr_racing! :D I don't have specs for the MT, but if you start three out on the HSN and begin leaning from there that should get you started. The factory settings are a starting point anyway. The 17/65 should be fine, but it depends on what percentage is low-speed and your driving style. I go around 14-16/66 <shrug>.

[jr_racing]

Thanks for the input.

I've been racing for about 2 years, and stadium trucks are my favorite. I've mostly ran a stock XXX-NT with a O.S. 12CV n/pullstart engine for most of the time. Tried monster truck, and 1/8th buggy classes but they weren't for me.

So I did some wheelin' and dealin', and ended up 2 RC10GT'S one roller, the other is my racer. No experience with the GT until I tore it down. So, I'm getting ready for our 3rd annual off-road shot-out Nov. 19-20.

Building a bad-boy that can smoke-em' all.

Thanks for havin' me. Just a good ol' country boy from Alabama........

later
jr

[powerstroke01]

POWERSTROKE if you get this before you do anything PM me - is that a .12 picco RC Speed?

I need a rod and p/s for one of those. :D

PM me if you want to sell it.

Look at the engine on the left here (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html), is it that one?

Welcome aboard jr_racing! :D I don't have specs for the MT, but if you start three out on the HSN and begin leaning from there that should get you started. The factory settings are a starting point anyway. The 17/65 should be fine, but it depends on what percentage is low-speed and your driving style. I go around 14-16/66 <shrug>.
yep, thats the same motor.

Im not sure what im going to do with them yet. But i will tell you that trinity told me that the rod for the xt.12 is the same one. At least thats what they said.. I ordered it and it hasnt gotten here yet. So im not positive it is the same one. Ill probably keep the p/s since i just got a brand new Rc Speed off of ebay. I may keep the rod too. :dunno:

But ill let you know if i do decide to sell.
And call up trinity. They might be able to help you out.

[beetlebz]

Jr racing, welcome to the forum, and congrats on getting yourself the best truck ever made :D

the 17/66 is a great all around setup, although personally i use 17/62. the RPM pipe from associated (the NTC one) really helps on the bottom end, so powering out of turns isnt really an issue for me with this gearing, although im going to go back to a 64t spur. just to get some cooler rooster tails in the clay :)

[rocknbil]

But ill let you know if i do decide to sell..

Well keep it in mind, I popped mine a couple months back (don't even know why, I wasn't even leaning on it too hard) and have been busy on this . . other project . . . lol . . . and haven't even had a chance to start looking.

[Shoe0727]

I have just started racing and I was wondering what tires would be best for a dirt oval.

Heres a picture of the track that I race at:
dirt oval (http://www.speedzoneraceway.com/index.php?name=coppermine&file=displayimage&album=19&pos=2)

Thanks, Shoe0727

[4DMNYC]

Hey Beetlebz,
Here are the after pics

[4DMNYC]

another,

[millzy555]

For allround tyres you can't go past the step pins or holeshots

[MonsterBlazer#1]

just installed my fantom .15, second hand job, well see how she holds up, got a 14t cb so should lift the front up pretty nice i recon. just gota wait for my new servos to come so i can run the gt.

[beetlebz]

4dmnyc, NICE ride. very nice. id go with losi directionals up front and step pins or square fuzzies out back, but thats a purdy truck if ive ever seen one. get a badass body on there and get some pics to RCCA ;)

can i ask you for a very...odd favor? it looks to me like youre running the rpm tuned pipe (ntc3 style muffler) and i notice its wire mounted. could you perhaps take a close up pic of the mount for the muffler? i cant get my muffler in a place where it doesnt rub the body without chaffing the starter cord. it looks like yours is doing alright!

[4DMNYC]

Thanks beetle, I was up till 3:30am on friday putting it together. yeah, the pipe is wire mounted and is from RPM,I'm not sure if it's the ntc3 pipe but it's been great during breakin. I used a wire I had laying around to mount it and just had to make it work, the pipe is still kinda close to the chassis but it dose the job and the starter chord dosen't rub against anything that will cause any fraying, and when I get a body on it I'll prolly just cut a huge hole in that area to leave alot of room for the pull start.
I'll definitly post a close up pic tonight after work.

Thanks again
:)

[4DMNYC]

sorry I couldn't get a clearer shot,

[beetlebz]

thanks alot for the pic dude, it helped alot!
interesting, your pipe is alot closer to the chassis than mine, but quite a bit higher. i get a screw driver out tomorrow and fiddle around with bending my header hehe OR i could quit being a chicken and just make the plunge for a starter box. ahhh its only money :D

hey, how do you like the dual deck chassis? i didnt know they made them the first time i swapped chassis, and that one and the one before it got all bent up in nasty confrontations with curbs. lol i wish i knew about the dual deck lol its gotta be alot more durable

[doesgo]

New Era has a double-decker chassis. www.neweramodels.com

[beetlebz]

thanks doesgo. honestly though, if i bend another chassis im throwing it out and getting a monster GT :eek:

[GT Freak]

whats the tranny ratio for the nds and the gt?? i can turn my nds into a gt,but need a little info first! :confused:

[beetlebz]

not a clue on the NDS, but i think the stealth GT tranny is 2.60

sorry i cant be more help :(

[EldarO]

had gt for 4 weeks, list of things broken,

brake disc
brake disc adapter
stripped left front axle
stripped spur gear
2 stripped head screws
had the flywheel assembly come loose a couple of times (threadlocked it)
carb wont open all the way beacuse servo doesnt have enough travel
rear dogbones come out
front suspension ball cup stripped after hitting a curb at a fairly slow speed, compared to what ive heard it can withstand
various glitching problems
turning at high speed severely bad, the car will keep going straight for 6-8 feet before it turns, and its the tyres
stripped transmission housing threads

i have more, but i just cant be bothered typing them,

not to knock the GT, im still keeping it, im just hoping eventually the fixing and breaking will stop for more than 2 weeks

Eldar.O.

[Fantom 15 gt]

Well, it aint realy the GT's fault. I mean most of those things are from over tighening. Ball cups should pop off not strip, maby you didn't screw the turnbuckle in far enough. You can stop the dogbones from coming out by putting springs next to them.

[EldarO]

they are spring loaded, i shoudl add, that this gt has been off-road a total of 1 (one) time.

shocking isnt it?

[slaf]

they are spring loaded, i shoudl add, that this gt has been off-road a total of 1 (one) time.

shocking isnt it?

What do you do with your GT ? Bashing, racing....abusing....?

[beetlebz]

well whatever hes doing with it, hes abusing it. it sounds to me like he is lacking in experience and is blaming it all on the GT. if youve broken your disc, you did somthing drastically wrong. ive NEVER ever seen a broken brake disc on a GT and ive put them through hell. fantom is right, stripping screws is from over tightening. if your dog bone springs are shot or improperly installed, yeah, that will happen, the bones will fall out. gotta shim up the axle. i know its an tough 10 second process, but it wont kill you. the car is great. IDIOT PROOF, is what the car is not.

for christs sake, if you go outside in the rain, it aint the rains fault you got wet. use your noggin.

[EldarO]

listen you jerk-off, i did nothing to insult your "sacred object" that warrants you calling me an idiot, i bash, bashing is bad, but the fact is, this truck is from america, and since im an aussie, i diont know what the bloke over there did to it, all i know is that it has broken alot, im in no way blaming the GT, and at the end of the day, what difference does it make?> its an inanimate object.

why dont you and the gt get a room?

Eldar.O.

[powerstroke01]

had gt for 4 weeks, list of things broken,

brake disc What the heck? Thats a new one
brake disc adapter Thats almost impossible
stripped left front axle What do you mean you stripped the axle?
stripped spur gear Impropper gear mesh.
2 stripped head screws Over tightening and/or worn driver
had the flywheel assembly come loose a couple of times (threadlocked it) Didnt tighten it enough the first time.
carb wont open all the way beacuse servo doesnt have enough travel Adjust servo, 5 min fix.
rear dogbones come out I know nothing about dog bones. Havent used those since the early 90s
front suspension ball cup stripped after hitting a curb at a fairly slow speed, compared to what ive heard it can withstand Sounds like it was already stripped or it wasnt screwed on far enough. Thats Uncommon
various glitching problems Screw loose somewhere on the truck?
turning at high speed severely bad, the car will keep going straight for 6-8 feet before it turns, and its the tyres Its not an onroad truck, Let off the gas. Driver error.
stripped transmission housing threads You can stop turning the driver now. I think its tight enough.

i have more, but i just cant be bothered typing them,Post em up.

not to knock the GT, im still keeping it, im just hoping eventually the fixing and breaking will stop for more than 2 weeks

Eldar.O.See above responces in red. :cool:

[rocknbil]

LOL EldarO . . it IS a sacred object. And you've desecrated our temple! LOL :D

'Aight well in addition to the above, explain the brake disk thing. That's totally bizarre. How the hell'd you manage that anyway? If it was set too tight and dragging all the time, I could see it. This is entirely possible when you look at your throttle linkage issues.


stripped spur gear
This is most likely from having the gear mesh set too tight. Adjust the engine away from the spur JUST A SMIDGE, just enough so when you hold the pinion solid and wiggle the spur, it's got a little "wiggle" to it, not tight against the pinion. The other cause can be a worn clutch nut shaft (It may look fine but a new one can do wonders,) bad clutchbell bearings, or a bent crankshaft, causing the pinion to bounce around.

had the flywheel assembly come loose a couple of times

I don't care what anyone says, threadlock will not help you here. The problem is getting a good torque against the collet, and if the flywheel collet-hole is warped at all (which happens if it gets loose) the only sure fix is a new collet and flywheel. What **I** do is remove the backplate and wedge a plastic rod inside the case to hold the crankshaft, then get a good (NOT KILLER) torque on it. I then use a rag with channel locks to hold the flywheel and torque the clutch nut the rest of the way. DO NOT USE A PISTON LOCKING TOOL. This can punch a hole in your piston.

carb wont open all the way beacuse servo doesnt have enough travel

This one's VERY common, but it's not the servo. You need to really fiddle around with this part, the GT has a narrow avenue where you get the full throw out of the servo and it works the throttle and brake too. Expirament with the horn on the outside holes, turn the horn on the servo, re-adjust it, it may take an hour or two but it can be done.

rear dogbones come out
This is because the down-angle of your suspension arms is too great. If you're going to run dogbones, adjust the ride height so the rear drive axles are LEVEL, not at an up angle for clearance. It's not an MT. Also use shock limiters.

Remove the shock shaft mounts, Open the shocks, and CAREFULLY (so you don't scratch the seals) slide the shock shaft up and out of the shock body. Slide a 1/8" limiter on the shaft. These are the short white "tubes" that come with any shock rebuild kit (while you're at it, a shock rebuild is a good idea and is time consuming but cheap.) This will effectively limit the shock DOWN-travel and your dissappearing dogbones will cease their act.

front suspension ball cup stripped after hitting a curb at a fairly slow speed,

Well you'll get no sympathy from me on this one, your GT DOES NOT BELONG IN THE STREET. :D But curbs are unforgiving at any speed. Live and learn.

various glitching problems
This is BAD. Review all your electrical connections, radio, crystals, this can lead to an out-of-control runaway and a blown engine, but it has nothing to do with the GT, it's electronics.

turning at high speed severely bad, the car will keep going straight for 6-8 feet before it turns, and its the tyres

Don't know what you mean by "its the tyres" but look up front, you will (or should, unless you've got an MIP steering kit) see a thumbwheel. This adjusts the stock servo saver. Tighten it up. If it's good and tight, you have something either binding in the steering or a crappy servo that can't turn the wheels, or both. The solution here is, with the servo unattached, verify everything smoothly turns left to right, and get a good strong steering servo, 89 oz/in or better.

stripped transmission housing threads
All of these stripped issues are from overtorquing, either by you or the previous owner. Mix up some epoxy glue, dab a touch down in these holes, and chase it with the bolts. That will hold you. Do not do this on the engine head. That. . . . well you've got a problem there.

Now listen up on this one: you will have these problems with ANY RC. It all boils down to patience and dilligence.

[EldarO]

Thanks for the help bil, to explain the disc, the plastic adapter slipped, melted, went off centre, and caused the disc to wobble, when i hit the brake, it was pushed one way at the top, but couldnt do the same at the bottom because of a large peice of p,lastic that had dripped down, this was an OLD style disc (Tub style).

The stripped axle is just that, the whheelnut stripping off the axle thread, i.e. the old owner mustve slammed it into a curb a 60mph qand caused the wheel to pop off with such force that instead of the wheelnut itself stripping, the axle did instead.

Stripped head screws, i didnt strip the thread, i stripped the top hex thingy, the head of the screw, and thanks to the 12 cvr head, i was ale to dremel them both off....

noones seen the connection between the stripped transmission housing screws, atnd the strpped spur gear? i can move the transmission about 2 cm in any direction right now, this was the latest thing to go wrong, and ive ordered a new one.

Never thought the turning problems would be from the servo saver

and will the expoxy actually hold the thred well? or is it just one of those "fixes" that never quite works properly?

Eldar.O.

[rocknbil]

It will work, I use it all the time, but it is indeed a "quick fix." The epoxy will work loose when you take out the screw. The only true fix is to replace the plastic part.

TUB chassis? You mean the brake unit only or this is a TUB CHASSIS?

That changes EVERYTHING.

One of the reasons they went to the thick aluminum chassis was the one "Achilles Heel" with the old GT - chassis flex. The rear of the chassis bends a little on a hard landing, slamming the spur against the pinion.

There are two fixes for this. There is a chassis brace out there that is a curved bar. The front attaches to the front left lower motor mount, it curves up around the carb under the air filter, and the other end attaches to the rear tranny mount. This will stop this once and for all. The Trinity engine mount/brace will help, but you really need this one.

The other is to get a new style chassis upgrade and move all your parts off the old chassis.

[quickestreflex]

hey guys im new to this forum!i have a rc10gt nad i wanted to know if there is any way i can mount one of my sg crankshaft styleengines in it ,the stock ae.15 is just garbadge but i have several race .12"s id want to put in it but iam not sure if the crankshaft will fit since they call for threaded, if possible could you get me part numbers if i need any,thanks alot guys

[slaf]

Stock AE .15 is sg crankshaft....

[quickestreflex]

yes but the tips arediffrent! the ae.15 has a clip that goen on the end ,while my sg engines have a screw ,also when i place one of my engines in the gt(with no clutch bell/shoes) it seems as if its to long and it looks like it would go [ast the spur gear, also the stock ae .15 bearings wont fit wear can i find bigger bearings? thanks alot for the help so far guys i appreciate it alot

[millzy555]

You can just cut the shaft to suit your need but make sure you wnat it on their so you don't screw the shaft

[Fantom 15 gt]

No you CANT get a SG shafted engine in a GT.

[EldarO]

Update: GT Electronics have been checked, receiver pack will be charged tomorrow, as i am getting my new transmission housing tomorrow :), suspension has been checked, ball cup is stripped, but usable, just as long as i dont land on it, HARD, getting a tl-01 roller tomorrow too, aswell as HPI screws for the tranny housing, are these any good? guy at LHS says that they are far better than the AE ones, im not sure if metric/imperial is a problem?

New FT header going on aswell, will allow enough clearance for me to use mmy new body.

and bil, the truck was upgraded from tub, im saying that the disc is the old style disc from the tub era, its not one of the newer fibrer, hard-to-break ones, as i have found out:/

I have the old chassis aswell, itas unbeleivably strong, except for the rear, which you can probably roll up :) anyone who still uses this, might aswell run over your truck with a 1:1 car, because i dont think theres any quicker way to mutilate your tranny, spur and all the lil tid bits at the rear.

will post results of run, maybe some pics too, maybe :)

Eldar.O.

[powerstroke01]

Sweet. My GT is alive!! Just gotta run 4 more tanks and its ready to race!! w00t!1!!1!

[powerstroke01]

Update: GT Electronics have been checked, receiver pack will be charged tomorrow, as i am getting my new transmission housing tomorrow :), suspension has been checked, ball cup is stripped, but usable, just as long as i dont land on it, HARD, getting a tl-01 roller tomorrow too, aswell as HPI screws for the tranny housing, are these any good? guy at LHS says that they are far better than the AE ones, im not sure if metric/imperial is a problem?

New FT header going on aswell, will allow enough clearance for me to use mmy new body.

and bil, the truck was upgraded from tub, im saying that the disc is the old style disc from the tub era, its not one of the newer fibrer, hard-to-break ones, as i have found out:/

I have the old chassis aswell, itas unbeleivably strong, except for the rear, which you can probably roll up :) anyone who still uses this, might aswell run over your truck with a 1:1 car, because i dont think theres any quicker way to mutilate your tranny, spur and all the lil tid bits at the rear.

will post results of run, maybe some pics too, maybe :)

Eldar.O.
Sweet. Cant wait. Sorry i was kinda hard on you in my post. :o

[quickestreflex]

guys thanks but im confused now , can it be done with my os .12 tr sg shaft engine??????? if so can anyone give me part numbers? thanks alot

[Fantom 15 gt]

No it can't.

P.S EldarO,l Your in perth arn't ya? The HPI screws will be fine.

[slaf]

I ran for the last time my RC10GT yesterday....I'll clean and store it for winter :(

[beetlebz]

eldarO, sorry dude i wasnt calling you an idiot. that was alot harsher than i intended it to be! i was just trying to emphasize that the trucks not to blame for everything on your punch list.

oh and a bit of advice when you get your tranny housing, they arent all perfect. this isnt an associated thing, ive had it with losi NTs too. some times they need to be shaved down in spots, sometimes they bind when tightened down. the most common problem i run into is the driveshaft binds when i tighten the tranny housing. i solved this by shimming up the back stub that sits in the rear bearing. it takes some work, but once you get it just right that tranny will spin like it was born to :)

[beetlebz]

slaf, say WHAT now? you mean like, not run it for months on end? are you serious? put some mittens on and slap that baby out in the snow! :D

[slaf]

slaf, say WHAT now? you mean like, not run it for months on end? are you serious? put some mittens on and slap that baby out in the snow! :D

I mean not run my GT until april 05 :( Beleive it or not but in january, there will be at least 4ft of snow on my track and temp around -20C :( :( :(

[TJNMT]

guys thanks but im confused now , can it be done with my os .12 tr sg shaft engine??????? if so can anyone give me part numbers? thanks alot

Board members stay away from this guy, he has scammed a number of people on here and still does with no help from the mods.
Read up:
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1593935#post1593935

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181644

[beetlebz]

slaf, well move down here with me in connecticut. it only gets to about -5F, and doesnt snow that much hehe

[slaf]

Sorry English is not good enough to move to USA and I prefer Canada, no offense :)

Instead of running my GT, I'll run my MGT but I'll prefer to get a HPI NMT, TMAxx or Savage rolling chassis to preserve my MGT from snow...

[beetlebz]

who doesnt prefer canada? even the USAs founding fathers sat around griping for a day about settling here because they couldnt get to canada lol

[EldarO]

Got screws, tranny housing, tl-01, various tl-01 parts, new header...

what happened

got tranny off, took tranny apart, cleaned everything, mate (Ken) brought new parts to me, right on time, slapped everything together, realised the screws being used for the kyosho header cant be used for the FT header, off to lhs tomorrow.

screws for mounting will be cut down to csize tomorrow, might not be done, last day of school, and the whole of year 12 is off to the beach!

ill keep ya posted.

Eldar.O.

[EldarO]

beetle, theres no way you can accidentally call someone an idiot and not mean it, you either do it or you dont, so im gonna take that as an apology and say its all good!

and it may not be the gts fault, but what really is?

senario: landed on front left wheel, snapped wheel, wheels fault, not part of gt.

another senario: land same way again, A Arm snaps, GT's fault? hardly! driver to blame.

yet another one: land upside down, snap head clean off, drivers fault.

see, it really depends on what people choose to view as what is at fault and what isnt...

Eldar.O.

[rocknbil]

Are you saying you did those?

If you snapped an engine head off it's because you were running without a body! :D

[EldarO]

no Bil, i didnt do em, im just saying, and i wont snap an engine head because i have a gunmetal colored crowd pleazer :)

manifold is on
tranny is on
gear mesh not perfect, thanks to slight stripping of spur gear before hand when the tranny was munted...

went to run truck, running like poop, thought manifold was loose, turns out carb retainer screw was completely missing!

and didnt have time to fix it because had to goto dinner with folks, finished high school today, oh yeah!

will report tomorrow, truck will be FULLY charged, and operational...

Eldar.O.

[powerstroke01]

Well. the GT is running again. This time iwth a failsafe.. ahha

Also got a job yesterday working at the local ski resort as a lift attendant.. Gonna work full time at 6.75 an hour.. Rent up there is only 200 a month so thats not too bad. Also requested every fri.and sat. off for racing ahah

[Fantom 15 gt]

Man I wish I could get my GT up and running, I need parts that I can't find for my V15 :(.

[EldarO]

well, guess what broke this time?

NOtHING AHAHHAHA

ran GT for 3 or so hours, onlyproblem, hit curb, cartwheeled, front right wheel hit ground first, (thats the side with the stripped axle) wheel fell off, cartwheeled again, axle dug into the ground, and rear wheels went twice the speed into the fence, and nothing at all broke
also, a couple of front flips, backflips, all cause of crashes, resulted in no breakage, damage report at the end of the day? 1 air filter foam (i have 2 in the airfilter, its an OS something or other) diff is sandy. and im out $11 for a litre of fuel.

all around, a great day, and i got videos :P

Eldar.O.

(P.S. the GT really is durable when it comes to the tuff stuff,im going to video it doing some REALLY insane stuff, before i sell it, which could be anytime soon...)

[4DMNYC]

There's a vid here, http://www.serpentracers.com/rc/4DMNYC/video
called RC10-Sepultura that has some good rc10gt footage and it's short and sweet. :D

[beetlebz]

elder, id definitely recommend rebuilding the diff frequently. just a good cleaning is all you need. when i was running the stock plastic diff gear, any time it got dirty and i didnt clean it right away id wind up chewing up the inside of the diff gear. plus, nothing is finer than the handling of the GT with a shiney clean diff :)

i currently run a robinson steel one and as long as i keep it clean, it runs like a champ. what i do is when the diff is all clean and reassembled, i put a small bead of black grease right on the rubber bearing seal for the out drives. when you put the diff back in it really helps seal around the outdrives, so you dont have to clean the grit out of the diff as often.

oh and for anyone interested, hopefully tomorrow ill be installing my crescenzi rear B4 kit on my GT. it stretches the rear track 1/8th of an inch and includes losi style axle washers. they allow you to just simply tighten your rear wheels, without having to tighten then check, then tighten some more, then check again to see if your CVDs are binding. basically it puts the pressure of the tire just on the inner racer of the carrier bearings so when you tighten the wheel down, it doesnt bind the bearing. full review in the near future!

great video 4dmnyc, then again, anything with sepultura in it cant be bad :cool:

[EldarO]

My name is clearly written up here as EldAr not elder...

and i would rebuild the diff, except in aussie land, down under, ae parts dotn come cheap, and they dont come often, HPI Aus has just bit the dust as well, so the only company i have suport from is Hong Nor, or OFNA to you americans, and we have a shizzle load of those parts...

but, like i said, no AE, Losi (loosey, because i dont like em, except for the mini-t, but the minizilla rules over that :P), Xray, Traxxas, HPI etc...

Eldar.O.

[slaf]

EldarO -> Did you check on EBay ?

[EldarO]

I dont likeebay, and refuse to use it... besides, the aussie version of ebay, has nothing, i was shopping for a tl-01 about 2 weeks back, and there were 2 on ebay, both over $200...

Eldar.O.

[Fantom 15 gt]

Yeah it sucks, What parts do you need mate? ill see what I have ;).

[beetlebz]

first off, eldAr, what the hell.... i misspelled your name! must be a CIA coverup. its not like i set out to misspell your name to spite you. i have better things to do. get over it.

and rebuilding your diff doesnt always require parts. if you take it down and clean it out often ALL the parts in your diff will last quite a long time.

as for the crescenzi B4 kit for the GT, i got it all installed. it does just what they say it does, which is cool. it widens the overall rear track of the truck 1/8", for starters. that alone really helps keep the truck flat when cornering hard, which can be a good or bad thing depending on how you drive. for me its great, it really helps swing the ass end of the truck around in a hairpin. the axles are, if you couldnt have guessed, the CVD axles from the B4, which gives extra room for the losi style axle washers. as i said before they basically take the pressure from the wheel off of the outer racer of the bearing and the carrier, and put all the pressure on the inner bearing racer, which keeps them from binding. that means you can effectively tighten down your rear wheels without worrying about binding... at all! it really gives the truck a nice, losi-esque feel on the track. really solid feeling in the corners.

for $20, a must have for every GT!

[Fantom 15 gt]

Yeah but in Auss, we pay 3x as much.

[beetlebz]

no no, i understand that. what im saying is if you clean out the diff often and keep fresh lube in there, you wont have to replace parts at all. ive been running the same diff parts in my GT for over a year, and the only reason ive replaced any of them was to get better parts. the only high wear part ive had to replace was the diff balls and rings, which is only 4 or 5 bucks, tops, and ive only had to replace those once. keeping the diff spiffy clean REALLY helps cut down wear on the diff parts. I use crescenzi friction reducer in my diff too in place of regular diff lube, which works out GREAT. i dont know if dave ships to aus, but hell, its only 4 bucks for the stuff. i can even order the stuff for you and mail it myself. even if its another 5 bucks for shipping, its WELL worth it, and the little tub lasts forever, and when you use it, your diff lasts forever too :)

[Fantom 15 gt]

OK I get ya now. I usally do that, I flip the rings around when I do it though. Yeah i'm going to order some parts off him in the next month or so.

[beetlebz]

if you get yourself stuck, give me a jingle. i can get pretty good prices on AE parts, and i wouldnt mind mailing them to you, assuming you dont mind paying for shipping lol

seriously though. as long as it isnt a weekly occurance i dont mind getting parts and shipping them to aus. you know, i think youve inspired me. im going to track down some parts from overseas cars, and try to find ones that will fit the GT, so you overseas guys can get em cheaper :)

[Fantom 15 gt]

You could start a good thing there. Pity i've brought enough parts to make another GT and a half lol. Do you have any shops that sell RB parts near you?

[beetlebz]

not a clue, but chances are my LHS can get them. i have to show my ignorance, who makes RB stuff? or whats the full name?

[Fantom 15 gt]

RB Concept is there name. Do ya mind if you can ask them?

[EldarO]

beetle, my whole life ive been putting up with that "whats your name", "eldar", "what", plus the insults "zelda" bah, im just sick of it.

it just really irriates me then, now here we go, my main issue is that, ITS WRITTEN down, and you still managed to mutilate it?

and i dont need new parts for my diff, i have a steel idler gear and titanium topshaft, the problem i have is the diff lube itself, yes, i cant find any, yes, it is shocking i know, but thats aus for you, if i wanted to get some, it would take 4x the price, and about 2 weeks to get it in, now personally, im never going to justify spending that much, which is why, im finally doing it, just before i sell it, yes, it is in the buy/sell section of these forums :/

Eldar.O.

[broncobill]

Hey

I got me a little problem...My engine Idles fine but when I come in from WOT and slam on the brakes it cuts out, becuase the idle is to low, but when i just ease off the throttle the idle is good, hit the brakes and it goes lower...Ive tryed adjusting the idle but that just makes it idle higher when I Dont hit the brakes!!!

Arghh! Help?

What is happening is when you jump on the binders, you are actually closing the carb alittle. There are adjustments on the radio that will stop this. It adjusts the throw of the servos. Once you get it so the carb will not close, adjust the tension on the brake spring.

[offroadcrazy01]

does any body have a rbx12 in there gt is it worth it

[rocknbil]

^ ^ ^ Not I, and hell yeah.:D

broncobill, you responded to a year -old post, I don't even think Polksie owns his GT any more, he sold it for a buggy . . . hehe . . PSYCH! :D

[broncobill]

I hate when that happens.

[Fantom 15 gt]

I had a X12 in my GT. Realy nice plenty of power for the basher/racer.

[slaf]

I think that I'll change my stock AE .15 for a new engine. Any comment about OS .12CV-R or ,18CV-R ? Is .18CV-R too powerfull for the stock tranny/truck ?

[EldarO]

i have the os 12 cv-r, in my opinion, its the best engine for the basher or racer, the included carb, whether slide or rotary, ive used both, tunes well, and holds a tune,the engine starts almost everytime, i usually forget to prime it :)

and most of all, this engine is DURABLE, mines been through heaps and its still going like the day i got it...

i can only imagine that the 18 cv-r is the same..

and if your going for the 18, i suggest going for the titanium topshaft and steel idler gear, RRP alloy spur set, and that should keep you safe...

Eldar.O.

[slaf]

EldarO -> My first choice is .12CV-R which is more than enough power for a 2wd stadium truck. .18 should be fun but almost too powerful to control my GT.

[EldarO]

depends whether your racing or bashing, your overlooking the 15 CV-R, the midpoint, POWERFUL, yet controllable, and it leads to wheelies on demand for the GT :)

Eldar.O.

[beetlebz]

Fantom, sorry about ignoring you there for a while. for the last week or so i havnt been able to access the forums! RB Concepts, got it, ill ask jay at the LHS when i stop in tomorrow, assuming i can stop vomiting long enough :(

[Fantom 15 gt]

Na I apreciate it alot! Thanks!

Hope you get better soon.

[offroadcrazy01]

ooooooooooooooooooooo

[beetlebz]

ok i stopped in today to pick up my freshly painted crowd pleazer (and its hot!) and i asked about rb concepts. he doesnt have any dealers currently that can get RB stuff, but i told him your situation and he said if i tell him what you need, he can try to get the stuff from them directly :)

[beetlebz]

oh, and slaf, i adore my .12 CV-R. i just set mine up without the pull start, and its real crispy :D

[Fantom 15 gt]

Ohhh cheers mate, I need:#1681 Lower carburator O-ring and #1700-022 wrist pin clips

[beetlebz]

cool, im sure ill find a good excuse to stop in there tomorrow, ill see what he can do! i cant make any promises, but if we can find a distro or a contact for them im sure we can get it.

[Fantom 15 gt]

Thanks again.

[beetlebz]

well, ill be honest lol it doesnt look good! we both sat down and made some phone calls today, nothing very productive. everyone knows a guy who knows a guy whos cousins of a close friend who has a distro that does RB... so hes going to call and see if he can get the stuff direct

[Fantom 15 gt]

LOL, Thanks for helping me out.

[offroadcrazy01]

LOL, Thanks for helping me out.
Try www.ace-hobbies.com for all your RB motors

[beetlebz]

assuming they ship to aus

[Fantom 15 gt]

Yeah i've already tried them, no luck.

[slaf]

What RB Are you looking for ? Can you give me a part number ?

[Fantom 15 gt]

I need parts for my RB V15 turbo,#1681 Lower carburator O-ring and #1700-022 wrist pin clips.

[slaf]

Fantom -> I've sent an email to my distributor ..... I'll keep you informed

[Fantom 15 gt]

Thanks mate.

[slaf]

Fantom -> Are you in Canada or USA ?



Is your email notification works ???

[Fantom 15 gt]

Neither i'm in Australia.

My email is fdjgroen@bigpond.net.au

[slaf]

As soon as I got respond from my distributor I'll let you know....

[Fantom 15 gt]

Cheers

[hawkboy65]

I recently purchased a Factory Team GT with RPM A-arms, MIP 4-in-1 clutch, RPM radio box, and other varios hop ups and a Futaba radio and equipment for 100 bucks. I love this truck but there is one thing i dont like. The engine on it sucks. My brother put an OS .12 CV(X) on it. It is in desperate need of a rebuild, as it has had 4 or 5 gallons through it, and it has no compression. Instead of spending te money on a rebuild, Im looking for a new engine. I bash occasionally but also like to race some, so I need it to be a .12. Any Suggestions? Im looking to spend no more than 200.

[slaf]

Check the OS .12CV-R or .12CV-RX....

[Budman_222]

The 12 cv-r is a sweetheart. I have one in my gt. Another thing to think about. Tower has a p/s for the cv 12 for 20 bucks.

[beetlebz]

love that CVR :)

fantom, no luck yet, havnt heard back from the company from what im told. ill go in again tomorrow and bust some nuts :)

[Fantom 15 gt]

beetlebz: Never mind mate I just found someone who has them. I apreciate it alot for you helping me. Thanks man!

[slaf]

Fantom -> Do you still need your parts ?

[beetlebz]

no prob fantom, ill keep looking anywhoo so that if a similar situation comes up again ill have a phone number to call :)

on a completely unrelated topic.. i took the GT out yesterday for about a half tank in the driveway at work. Among the things ive done to it (its getting a makeover!) was extending the fuel and pressure lines to around a foot long each now. I figured it might help for when i dump the car on its lid, and ive always wanted to try running a longer pressure line. so anyway i took a turn really hard on the asphault and tossed the car on its lid (DOH! first time out with the new body lol) and it died the SECOND it landed upside down. almost instantly. what gives? any thoughts?

just as an observation the engine sounded.... i dunno... a little raspier or rougher than normal. theories?

[FleaUDP]

I recently purchased a Factory Team GT with RPM A-arms, MIP 4-in-1 clutch, RPM radio box, and other varios hop ups and a Futaba radio and equipment for 100 bucks. I love this truck but there is one thing i dont like. The engine on it sucks. My brother put an OS .12 CV(X) on it. It is in desperate need of a rebuild, as it has had 4 or 5 gallons through it, and it has no compression. Instead of spending te money on a rebuild, Im looking for a new engine. I bash occasionally but also like to race some, so I need it to be a .12. Any Suggestions? Im looking to spend no more than 200.


For the money, if you want a top of the line motor, look at the mugen MT12, but if you wanna keep budget in mind.
you can pick up an OS TR for 130
but then you also need a new header 30 bux
and a starter box
but you'll have a very well rounded motor, a little to much for bashing, but the perfect motor for racing.

[bob333]

what is the best big block engine for the rc10gt? :confused:

[Fantom 15 gt]

Do you mean whats the biggest engine I can fit in a GT? Or the most powerful?

[kylerc-10gt]

sup i am new to rc and i got a rc10gt for my first truck and ive went through so many things and i need a new engine i blew mine up in a race does anyone know where to get one

[Fantom 15 gt]

From Tower Hobbies or Stormer Hobbies. I'd sugest an O.S CVRX

[slaf]

Hi all !

I just bought the FT aluminum shock caps for my RC10GT. I took a front shock, remove all oil, clean everything, fill with fresh 35wt oil and then installed the new cap.

My question is....Is this normal that I can't compress completly my shock. I can only push the shaft about 1/2 inch inside after that it's almost impossible to push farther the shaft inside (using normal strenght). Is there to much oil in my shock ?

[rocknbil]

slaf it sure sounds like it. That is also a recipe for guaranteed eventual shock leakage and inconsistent damping.

Many people misunderstand what shocks do. They are not intended to provide SUSPENSION, but DAMPING, which is the effect of slowing down the speed at which the shock reacts to the surface. If you need to provide more or less suspension, you change your springs, not your shock oil. You use damping to affect handling on different surfaces and (in combination with other suspension characteristics) cornering.

When you fill your shocks so full there is a "rebound," what is happening is as you push the shock shaft in, there is now more volume than possible at zero pressure, and the internal pressure rises. This pressure has nowhere to go but out the shock seals, giving you leaky shocks. Additionally, after you get it out on the track and begin bouncing them, they leak at different rates, giving all four shocks different damping properties and most likely misleading you as to why it's handling funny.

The way to fill shocks is with the cap off, fill it up, then slide the shaft up almost all the way to the top allowing it to push out the excess oil. This will give you a "bubble" shape of oil on top like a glass lens. At this point cap it off, you're done. The shaft should slide in both directions, in and out, with equal resistance and at any point, in or out, when you let go of it it should only move a little bit or none at all.

[slaf]

The way to fill shocks is with the cap off, fill it up, then slide the shaft up almost all the way to the top allowing it to push out the excess oil. This will give you a "bubble" shape of oil on top like a glass lens. At this point cap it off, you're done. The shaft should slide in both directions, in and out, with equal resistance and at any point, in or out, when you let go of it it should only move a little bit or none at all.

This exactly what I have done, fill the sock until bubble shape on the top then screwed the cap tightly. But if I understand well, the shock shaft should slide in to full compress and then slowy slide out for about 1/8".

Maybe I should loose the cap to let some oil out.

[doesgo]

Did you slide the shock shaft into the body before putting the cap on? That's very important.

[slaf]

You mean just before putting the cap I completly slide the shaft in until I can see the piston on the top of the body ?