Associated RC10GT Forum v8.0

[rocknbil]

You mean just before putting the cap I completly slide the shaft in until I can see the piston on the top of the body?

Correct!

.... fill it up, then slide the shaft up almost all the way to the top allowing it to push out the excess oil. ....

:D

When you slide the shaft into the shock and it pushes out the oil - that is called displacement, the volume of the shock shaft is displacing the oil. If it's got nowhere to go - it's like a hydraulic brake, the fluid does not compress and it increases the resistance and changes the way the shock works, now you have pogo sticks. :D

The rebound for 1/8" thing - that is something that comes from an onroad TC3 manual (I think), where it's almost impossible NOT to get a rebound because of the lower volume, and does not apply to larger volume shocks. Here's why.

Let's say you adjust all four so they have 1/8" rebound, which you really can't measure with any accuracy unless you have a shock tuner, and we **all** can afford one of those. :D Even if you do, you get it out on the track, the shocks begin to bounce around, the internal pressure in the shocks equalize at a different rate. So now you have some rebounding at 1/4", another at 1/8", the other two are flat where they are supposed to be . . . see where it's leading? That's not what shocks are for.

This is something I learned ten years ago and still people keep pumping up their shocks but hey, rock on. :D

[Kdonks]

I believe the rebound is a way to measure the amount of air left in the shocks. Since the shock oil isn't compressible the only think that would cause the rebound is air in the shocks.

With associated shocks I've noticed that whatever air is left in the shock mixes with the oil and that becomes the shock fluid. If one shock has more air than the other you get different damping. I don't like that design and have resorted to using GS silicone shock bladders. You have to limit the shock up-travel to get them to work in truck shocks but they keep the air and the oil separate. I feel this is the best for shocks.

K

[slaf]

I just finished to rebuild my shocks, they work perfectly. Thanks for your help !

[bizaare69]

Well i havent posted in quite a while but i come back with bad news. I was racing at my bmx track and i dived my nose a bit and it rolled over and whipped my backend over smoked the shock tower and busted it is. its not the shock tower that busted its the case that the shock tower bolts to the mounts broke off :eek: :eek: :eek: so now i guess im going to have to replace it but not till after christmas for me. i can prob get some pics here if uu guys want lol ttyl

[rocknbil]

bizarre, actually racing or bashing? Well we figgered since we hadn't heard from you, you were running. :D

That's called a bulkhead, and should only set you back 5-6 bucks as I recall.

[beetlebz]

ahhh yes, the rear bulkhead. thats another point for the alum tranny brace hehe

[roee]

Hey guys,

I'm looking to buy a RC10GT. I'm wondering, what's the strongest engine you can
put in it while still maintaining track drivability? I'm looking for the new OS .18TZ.
I wasn't really planning on that, but since it's featured with a short shaft and not too expensive...
OS says it puts out 1.8bhp.

What kind of protective measures and additional parts should I use in order to keep the truck in one piece?

What comes to mind:
Robinson Idler Gear
20t Pinion

Anything else I should put on?
What gear ratio would you recommend for such an engine?

Thanks!

[slaf]

ROEE -> If you wanna race, .18 is not legal :( But if you are just bashing OS .18TZ. is more than enough power for your GT. Changing idle gear, top shaft, diff gear is a good idea. For the gear ratio I'll suggest a bigger bell, like 18T and a smaller spur like 62T.

You'll also need to buy a rear exhaust header if your current engine is side exhaust. You'll also need good tires, loose your slipper clutch and learn to control all this power :)

OS real HP are always 10% more than claimed, so 1.8 is more 1.98HP.

Anyway, your GT will fly with this engine....

I'm planning to change my GT's engine too, but I'll not go with .18....I'll prefer OS .12CV-R

[roee]

Thanks, slaf! :) Point taken.

Do you think such an engine will turn the GT uncontrollable?
I'm not going to race it, but just drive it around a track (no bashing).

I guess I can always use the Throttle ATV to limit the power, can't I? ;)

[slaf]

I saw GT with .18CVR and the truck was easily doing wheelies...Too easily ! I can't imagine .18TZ :)

It also depends of your track, if you have long line to use all your engine power this should be nice. But as I told you in the previous post, I'll go with a smaller engine. Smaller engine is cheaper and you won't need to change tranny parts and header. You can save money to get fuel, hump pack etc etc etc... I don't say .18TZ is not a good choice but it's a overpowered choice for a so light 2wd truck !!!

I don't know your radio but you can always be gentle with throttle and it'll give the chance to control your GT.

[LearjetMinako]

O.S. .18TZ.....in the GT..... :eek: . That engine would be consider overkill w/o control of it. But then again, can't blame you. I was thinking the same engine. W/ the O.S. .15 CV-R, I can pull wheelies if I get the rear set-up right or hit a pebble while acclerating. Most of the time, controlable steering is an issue, so why steer while you can drift. And if you have a JR XS-3 radio use that special function where you can limit the throttle.

[beetlebz]

thats ALOT of engine for that truck. my .12 CVR is off the hook as it is. i drove one with a .12 sirio and we actually had to tune some power OUT of it.

[Tim'sLosi]

Does the GT team chassis kit have everything needed to convert? Will my trans work okay? Any negatives to doing the conversion? Thanks alot! Tim

[rocknbil]

I smell a troll. :D

hehe. . . .

[Tim'sLosi]

I smell a troll. :D

hehe. . . .

??????????

[slaf]

Does the GT team chassis kit have everything needed to convert? Will my trans work okay? Any negatives to doing the conversion? Thanks alot! Tim

If you are converting from a older tub chassis to FT chassis, Everything will fit, no problem !

[Tim'sLosi]

I smell a troll. :D

hehe. . . .

Was this meant for me? What does it mean??

[slaf]

Maybe he found strange that you asked for a question about RC10GT while your nick is Tim'sLosi !

[rocknbil]

Precisely. :D

A "troll" is not just a short ugly little critter, on the 'net it's someone trolling as in fishing for flame responses "just to see what happens. "

your original message
Does the GT team chassis kit have everything needed to convert?

Combined with the "L" word (hahaha) was vague enough to make me wonder. Convert to what, and from what?

If you're really asking - sorry. :D Lots of Losi owners are umm . . . well let's say they like to bash GT's. 'Spose there are GT owners that way too.

[doesgo]

Losi vs. AE, Savage vs. T-Maxx, Ford vs. Chevy.....it's all the same and it'll never end! :)

[Tim'sLosi]

That is gonna be my new Nick :D That way I won't be tagged a Troll again wherever I post :rolleyes: I thought it had something to do with my name but wanted to be sure. I think they all make great vehicles, some do things better than others though. I just bought into the AE brand with an older GT tub style and, like most of my vehicles, I like-a-de-hop-ups :D Thanks for the serious answers and don't think I am trashing the thread! Now that I re-read my post I was a little vague...must have been in a hurry or tired!
Tim

[rocknbil]

In which case like slaf said, absolutely, all your parts from the tub will fit in the team chassis, and it comes with a better motor mount for it, my wife built her GT that way. DEFINATELY worth it.

[Tim'sLosi]

So...Are the older and the newer RC10GT truck's parts interchangeable? I mean arms, shock towers, etc? That is pretty cool if you ask me. I have the stealth 2.6-1 trans, is that the same as the newer models? Some things I have read say that some racers prefer the tub chassis for it's lighter weight but that there is some bracing needed to prevent flexing at the rear. I verified the spur will bounce away from the bell under duress.
Thanks for any and all help,
The Troll (Tim)

[rocknbil]

Correct on all points. There is a chassis brace out there, think it's made by Trinity (or used to be,) that's a 1/4" bar, it attaches to the front left engine mount, loops around the engine below the air filter, and attaches to the rear transmission mount, that eliminates the chassis flex in old tubs. The elongated engine mounts help but don't brace the corner where the bulkhead attaches. This stil doesn'r eliminate the axial flex (twist) up fron on rough terrain, the late aliminum chassis addresses all these problems.

[slaf]

Tim -> Don't waste your time with the old tub chassis, get the new one...You can buy the chassis alsmost everywhere, even on EBay !

Put some blue on your GT :)

[Tim'sLosi]

Tim -> Don't waste your time with the old tub chassis, get the new one...You can buy the chassis alsmost everywhere, even on EBay !

Put some blue on your GT :)

Here I go again...I could have bought a CNC machine and hired Vinnie from OCC to run it for all the cash I've put into hop-ups :eek: I am considering selling it on eBay and buying one off eBay with the new style and some hop-ups. I didn't realize this one had the tub when I got it. It's in really nice condition though. Fired right up and drove nice. I have really wanted to add a GT to my stable.

[bizaare69]

bizarre, actually racing or bashing? Well we figgered since we hadn't heard from you, you were running. :D

That's called a bulkhead, and should only set you back 5-6 bucks as I recall.

I checked it out the rear bulkhead is broken but also the mounts that are connected to that case which im guessing has the gears and such in it those posts snapped also :(

[Tim'sLosi]

Tim -> Don't waste your time with the old tub chassis, get the new one...You can buy the chassis almost everywhere, even on eBay !

Put some blue on your GT :)

Once I find time to finish my Nitro Rustler RD Chassis and SS screwx upgrades I am gonna go blue with the GT! I made a deal at my LHS for an OFNA 12v starter box (GT is my first non-pull-start), Rush outdrive cups (for my nitro mt), and the Team Blue chassis conversion. I have to finish putting my Nitro MT back together now that it has a slipper and Hardened gears F & R.

The GT is really nice to drive...should be better once I update the chassis and adjust the setup.

Thanks again guys...Look forward to your help this new year and maybe I can help as well. The Troll

[Piggy89373]

Tim (the Troll), from one older tub chassis owner to another, get a newer GT. I still have my old tub chassis with all the white parts. I love it to death, but I didn't have the heart to convert it over to a newer chassis. Instead, I found a roller, upgraded it a bit, and I now have a fairly nice almost FT. Total, ran about 150 bucks for the full roller. With a new engine and electronics, it was definitely worth it. The old tub chassis still gets run now and again, but the buying a roller was the way to go.

With a used roller, always expect the worst. But, you'll usually find that the previous owner put a few hop-ups on it that are still worthy to keep. Shop the for sale ads here and on ebay. IMO, it's the better way to go.

[Piggy89373]

Tim (the Troll), from one older tub chassis owner to another, get a newer GT. I still have my old tub chassis with all the white parts. I love it to death, but I didn't have the heart to convert it over to a newer chassis. Instead, I found a roller, upgraded it a bit, and I now have a fairly nice almost FT. Total, ran about 150 bucks for the full roller. With a new engine and electronics, it was definitely worth it. The old tub chassis still gets run now and again, but the buying a roller was the way to go.

With a used roller, always expect the worst. But, you'll usually find that the previous owner put a few hop-ups on it that are still worthy to keep. Shop the for sale ads here and on ebay. IMO, it's the better way to go.

[Dill]

I'm just starting to put my GT back together...it started out life as an RTR, and I had problems keeping rear wheel bearings in it, so I upgraded to 1/4" axles/bearings/hubs, and dumped the AE .15 for a Novarossi Top CT12 along with a couple new Hitech servos and a motosaver air filter.

I have a couple of questions regarding the upgrades...it seems the pins to hold the axles in are quite a bit larger and more beefy than the stock ones. How do I bend these to keep the axle in place? Also, it seems like I'll need new rear rims as the bigger pin doesn't fit inside of them, is this true?

My other question is...the stock AE engine had a ball cup throttle linkage setup. The TOP engine has an arm with holes in it...what do I need to buy to get this setup? I'm looking at making a Tower order for some other stuff for my Savage, so any help you could give would be mucho appreciated!

[Piggy89373]

Dill, throttle arm your talking about sounds like it's a rotary carb. If so, tis quite easy. Take out your manual that came with the car, look through it to find the throttle linkage and the two parts you need. Take those part numbers down to your lhs, pay your $2, come home, install them, and 4 minutes later you'll be ready to try things out. It's actually pretty simple and easy. It's a new ball stud and a nut. Everything else will just pop right on.

[Piggy89373]

Ok, where to start...

The older GT had 1/4" axles. After a few years, the swing was toward 3/16" axles because the bearings in the 1/4" kept blowing. They stuck with the 3/16 axles because the bearings could be larger, beefier, and would last longer. So, most people would say that 3/16 axles are the upgrade, not the 1/4". Whether or not you stick with it, it's up to you. When racing, I can definitely tell you that 3/16 axles will last you a bit longer.

The axle pins typically fit tight enough so that you don't need to bend them. Besides, if you do bend them, it makes putting the tires on rather difficult. If you're really concerned about the pins coming out, put a little CA glue on a toothpick, and apply to the point where the pin meets the axle. You'll only need to do this on one side of the axle to allow you to break everything down to clean and relube (as per regular maintenance).

With rims, the pin should fit nicely into the rim hub. If you're using the stock rims designed for 1/4 axles and fitting them onto 1/4 axles, you shouldn't have any problems. However, some other makes have some difficulty in fitting nicely. You might have to take a hobby knife to the rim to carve out a little more of the rim to allow it to accomodate the length of the axle pin.

[Dill]

ok, after reading your first post, I had a closer look at the AE carb...I cleaned some grime off, and noticed you are totally right, it is a little ball with a nut on it. I stole that and put it on the TOP carb..1 problem solved.

Aren't 1/4 axles and bearings larger than 3/16? I would think the 1/4 would be stronger and longer wearing. Anyways, the pins don't fit tight in the axles and slip right through...and they don't fit inside the rims I have. It's more the width of the pin and not the length...I'll try trimming the rims a bit so the pin will drop in.

[Budman_222]

The od of both axle bearings are the same so the bearing for the 1/4 axle has to have smaller balls. If you're racing or concerned about unsprung weight, the 3/16 axle is probably your best bet. If you're bashing or think you can afford the unsprung weight, rpm makes a bearing carrier that uses a 1/2" od bearing for either axle. They are probably as close to bullitt proof as you'll get. I have 1/4" cvd's and the big rpm bearings in three of my trucks. It's just something you don't have to worry about any more.

[Dill]

interesting...I'm pretty sure I ordered 1/4" bearings, however, they would not fit into my stock wheel hubs, so I had to go down to my LHS and get larger ones, and larger axles to fit inside the bearings. The OD of the bearings I got is much bigger than the ones I removed. *shrug* I got it all together, just waiting for a new throttle servo and the truck will be good to go. Thanks for the help!

[Fantom 15 gt]

They must of given you the wrong ones...

[rocknbil]

....Also, it seems like I'll need new rear rims as the bigger pin doesn't fit inside of them, is this true?....

Nah you can just drill them out and like Piggy said give the slots a little nudge with the knife, they'll fit fine. I have 1/4's on my original 10T's and one of our GT's.

[Dill]

yea, I got the wheels on the truck now, I actually used my dremel with a carbide side cutting bit to clean the slot out a bit. When I get home from work I'll take a pic of the old bearing/hub/axle vs the new ones, which might explain things. It doesn't matter much to me, its together and solid, but its one of those things I'd just like to know.

[Dill]

yea, I got the wheels on the truck now, I actually used my dremel with a carbide side cutting bit to clean the slot out a bit. When I get home from work I'll take a pic of the old bearing/hub/axle vs the new ones, which might explain things. It doesn't matter much to me, its together and solid, but its one of those things I'd just like to know.


here's the picture. as you can see, the stuff on the truck is much larger..larger hub, larger axle, larger ID and OD of the bearing, and larger pin, ironically, the same wheel nut fits.

[Budman_222]

The one on the left looks like the rpm 1/2 x 1/4 carrier and bearing. The right one is the stock 3/8 x 3/16 bearing and axle setup.

[doesgo]

Right on, Budman! Looks like the larger RPM stuff on the left to me.

[Dill]

cool, shouldn't break then...I was getting tired of replacing bearings all the time!

[rpmmaxxed]

I recently bought another rc10gt, see auction here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5941927534&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT and I was wondering if you guys think it was worth it. Total comes too $115.36 shipped.

I was planning on rebuilding my race GT, but It would have cost about the same too do the rebuild as getting this truck.

Do ya guys think it was a worthwhile purchase?


One more question, Which is better for racing, rear or side exhaust? I have been running side for awhile, and I want to know if rear offers any benefits.

Best .12 for under $150? I came across a fantom.12 rear and side exhaust for $85, and I think i may buy one of them.

[slaf]

It looks like a good deal, few aluminum and titanum parts. Still curious about the engine. The truck has good RTR tires. Not a bad deal.

For your engine, I'll go with OS .12CVR

This one -> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA43&P=7

Or this one (You'll need to cut the crankshaft) -> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ72&P=7

[rpmmaxxed]

Will those engines have competitive power?

[jjmag26]

I don't know any thing about these trucks but was hopeing someone could help me out. I want to know roughly what year this truck is. I beleive this body to be the original and it has the old style tub chassis. Thanks for any help.

[jjmag26]

One more pic

[rpmmaxxed]

My best guess would be roughly a 1993-1998 model. Its hard to tell with so many of them produced, and the model not changing much in the '90's.

[rpmmaxxed]

But that engine looks like a 2.5, which is a recent engine, and will have waaaay too much power for the GT. If you can get it too run that is.

[rocknbil]

No I don't think that's the original body. The Original black tub body was identical to the RC10T body - see a pic here (http://www.nytebyte.com/personal/rides.html), the red/yellow one on the right is an original 10T/GT body. That looks like a current RTR GT prepainted body.

I'm terrible with dates, can't give you a year but it is definately an old generation GT, and looks like it's had some other tweaks too.

I recently bought another rc10gt ....Do ya guys think it was a worthwhile purchase?....

Well for $102, you can't lose. :D But some things to be aware of:

The differential screw is stripped out, the flywheel is too small for most starters, and the fuel tank is from another car.

As for the flywheel, all that's wrong is it looks to me like he's got an MIP lightweight flywheel and it probably still has the pull-start engine mounts. We've got MIP's on both our GT's no problem there. Judging from the other statements and general condition, I'll venture to guess the first engine was blown and you're going to see other signs of heavy abuse, plan on a tranny rebuild right off, hands down.

The thing that **really** worries me is the absence of the air filter. A lot of success/no problems in this hobby has to do with habits. If he's in the habit of leaving it off when it's sitting around, chances are good he's in the habit of letting it run without it. Count the engine as probably out too.

I beleve that's a CVEC pipe, isn't it? We run them on both our GT's, great fun.

But no, I'd pay $102 for all that.

[rpmmaxxed]

Im not too concerned if the engine is shot, but if it is in running condition, all the better.

Thanks for bringing the air filter too my attention, I never even brought that into account. Concerning the diff, I was also counting on a rebuild, but I will just install one of my other diffs, and rebuild that one and keep it as backup.

The main concern that I would be worried about is a bent chassis.

The main thing and reason that I bought this was, I was planning on rebuilding my current GT with all of RPM's available parts, and basically get it back to racing condition(The truck has had 6gallons on it, lots of wear). I saw this auction, and for what its worth, I think it was a worthwhile purchase, at least I hope so.

[doesgo]

rpmmaxxed,
If it runs decent, I'd say you got a good deal with all those hop-ups on it. Great platform to use to build up a race truck. Even if the engine is junk it's not a bad deal. Is that an O.S. .12CV-R on it?

Engine-wise, I'm with slaf. The .12CV-R is a GREAT engine. It's quite powerful, smooth powerband, easy to tune, runs forever, reliable....I've had a few different CV-Rs and loved them all and that's what I'll be buying for next season to race with my GT! There are other, more powerful engines out there, but at least for me, the CV-R provides plenty of power for my level of racing.

Rear-exhaust engines have more ultimate power potential, I believe, but you can get lots of power out of side-exhaust small-blocks, too.

[doesgo]

If the chassis is bent, keep your eye on eBay. I've purchased two brand-new FT chassis on eBay for around $20 each. The parts are out there, just gotta find 'em!

[rpmmaxxed]

The main thing that I needed to rebuild my current race truck was a new chassis, and I was in drastic need of a new screw kit. I figured may as well get another truck altogether.

[slaf]

Engine looks like a HPI T15....

[rpmmaxxed]

It is a OS .12 CV-r. So it should be raceable, I hope...

[rpmmaxxed]

Does anyone know of any aftermarket chassis? I am not inerersted in the double deck chassis's, but rather just another flat one that is stronger than stock.

I have bent a few so far, and am tired of upgrading.

Anybody?

[AE_racer38]

i do believe hardcore racing has a titanium one available in a few colors. that shouldn't bend.
the gt in the pic is probably from '95 up. the original gt had white arms from the 10T. when the T2 was released,the gt got the suspension from it,and has kept it to this day. the body is the second generation gt body made to better fit the pipe under the body.
i know all this because i've had and still have every generation of gt AE has released.i could disassemble and reassemble one blindfolded. lol

p.s. why so against the double deck chassis? they're one of the stiffest,if not the stiffest i've used or seen.

[hotrodpablo]

Who is left that races for associated on a national level besides Tebo? I just read that Billy Easton signed with Losi, Pavidas is signed with Kyosho. Who does that leave in associated's corner? There has to be someone out there to compete on the national level. If not then I forsee associated dropping in sales. What wins on Sunday sells on Monday.

[AE_racer38]

they won't leave it open like that. trust me! there are far too many AE drivers out there for sales to drop that much.

[potatoe_bird]

Hey, I've had a rc10gt for awhile now and I love this truck! :D
I am giving it a much needed makeover right now. It has all rpm products available except the wheel hubs. (going to get soon) It also has a rear aluminum shock tower.
I am going to pick up a os 18 soon at the lhs. I have ordered the following items.

aluminum clutch shoes
rcscrewz stainless steel screw kit (hex heads)
rx pack w/ charger
bidding on 3mm cnc chassis

I plan on getting these items...

rr aluminum diff gear
rr stainless steel rc10gt combo (spur and cb)
rr steel idler gear
aluminum shock towers (atleast a front one to go w/ the rear one lol)
aluminum tube holders
fm radio (when I have the cash, am is doing fine for bashing)
street tires
tuned pipe
new era 3 point roll bar
125cc fuel tank w/ cnc mounts

Ok on with the questions...

The previous owner stripped the screws holding on the tranny. Do I just try to drill through them?

What is the part number for the little tiny pins in the driveshafts that hold the driveshaft on the little thing coming out of the tranny and also the wheel keys on the them? Sorry if that is confusing
They are falling out and one even came half way out and chewed a nice deep channel through my rpm rear a arm. :eek: I ordered roll pins for stub axle and they were too big. They were just too big around. :(

One more. Why is the bearing set on tower so expensive? $86 :eek: I could get bearings for the tranny on ebay for $10. Should I just get the ebay ones?

Thanks for reading all of this! ;)

[rpmmaxxed]

After this upcoming season, I hope to be added to Associated]s team of drivers. :)

[doesgo]

Bearings-wise, get a set from Team Blue Star (http://www.teambluestar.com/) for about $30. That price on Tower is because they're Associated bearings. Probably the same as Duratrax or anyone else, bu they have the AE name on them so they're really expensive. If you don't want Team Blue Star, you can probably find a bearing kit for a GT from Duratrax on Tower for around $30.

[potatoe_bird]

Ok, much better. :) Thanks

[bubbastump]

so much to learn
try this site
www.rc10gthobby.com
good bearings low price
good hop ups good price
great fourm nothing but gt

[ritchies rc10gt]

heres a picture of my rc10 getting some air.hopefully the link works

http://rpmrc.com/pics%20on%20web/images/DSC_0299_JPG_jpg.jpg

[Saboteur]

*Sings* "How much is that GT in the window? How much with the LHS guys offer it to me?" Maybe I'll make an offer to them instead and pick up a new set of rear tires for it. Trying to find an MT I'll like is pissing me off (Sav SS/MGT, MGT/Sav SS, MGT/Smaxx, Smaxx/MGT). ARGGGG!!! I'm thinking of just buying the GT (if it's still there) and getting some stuff for it. Darn LHS now stiffing me on Losi parts as well as HB, some HPI, etc. They say they can order it, but claims it never came in. UGH. I can actually picture the GT with proline gladiators, green fuel tubing, hitec 625MG, stock pipe, and for engine..hmm...I dunno. Maybe just stick a CVR in there or a RE engine. I have my MT12, but it's SG and its expensive for a new crank. I'm kinda feelin the GT idea though as I can CERTAINLY get a nice combo setup with it as opossed to buying an MT and then having to upgrade it. I'll think some more. :) Always liked the GT anyway.

[Fantom 15 gt]

^ You can get a SG crank in a GT afterall. Its a great truck.

[Saboteur]

How did you do it? Did it involve cutting the crank? I hope not, otherwise the MT12 won't go back in the R40. :(

[Fantom 15 gt]

Look in the nitro forum, i'll bring up the thread. I dosn't seen that hard.

[Saboteur]

As long as it doesn't have to do with cutting the SG crank, I'll go for it. :) Think I may invest in the GT and T4 RTR and leave the MT for later on.

[Fantom 15 gt]

Yep no cutting for the crank. Now that I've found out you can use SG cranks, you can use almost any engine on the market.

[Saboteur]

Great! :D

[potatoe_bird]

Ok. I got the screws out. I had to use a special drill bit. I just made a big order at tower, now I can't wait. :D

Here is what I ordered

MIP Super Differential Rebuild Kit RC10GT
Robinson Racing Aluminum Differential Gear RC10GT
Robinson Racing Steel Idler Gear w/Grease RC10GT
MIP Light Flywheel RC10GT
Robinson Racing Steel Combo 65T/15T RC10GT
O.S. .18 CV-RX (S) w/11J Rotary Carb :p
Hitec HS-625MG High-Speed 2BB MG Servo S/JR/Z
MIP Shiny CVD Kit 1/4" 10T/GT
Robinson Racing Heavy Duty Clutch Bell 32P 18T RC10GT
$25 PROMOTIONAL DISCOUNT

And I have a stainless steel hex screw kit, aluminum clutch and rx battery in the mail. :)

[slaf]

I'd like to see your GT with an OS .18 :)

[potatoe_bird]

ok.

CRAP! I just noticed I ordered the mip cvd kit for 1/4 axle and they already shipped it. :(
What do I do? What would I have to do to convert it to 1/4 axle?

[ritchies rc10gt]

ok.

CRAP! I just noticed I ordered the mip cvd kit for 1/4 axle and they already shipped it. :(
What do I do? What would I have to do to convert it to 1/4 axle?

first i would see if they could swap them for you,you may have to pay to send them back,or ebay the 1/4"cvds and buy the 3/16 cvds

its easy to swap to the 1/4,get 8 bearings 3/8x1/4 and rims for the 1/4 axles.the biggest problem with the 1/4 axles is the bearings constantly need replacing.the balls inside arent big enough to handle the stress and power from a nitro and end up blowing apart

[potatoe_bird]

I'll just send them back or sell them. I'll use the money for new tires. :)

[ritchies rc10gt]

I'll just send them back or sell them. I'll use the money for new tires. :)


you may have a hard time selling them though,the new RTR comes with the 3/16 axles now,and most people have converted to the 3/16 axles.but you may get lucky

[rocknbil]

I've been using 1/4's for years, the only down-side is if you don't maintain then the bearings burn up. 1/4's fit the original 10T too.

[potatoe_bird]

I have a 10T sitting around. :)

[potatoe_bird]

Ok I got all of my parts in. Rx pack is charging, diff is rebuilt and all metal gears are in. I also installed my new hitec 625 mg. :p

I need to order a new clutch nut for my os 18. Which one do I get?

[potatoe_bird]

It won't let me edit my post.

The 625 uses a different kind of plug than the otherservo. It fits in the reciever but nothing will move when that one is plugged in. I'll just keep it for when I upgrade to fm but is there anyway to make it work? I just ordered a new clutch and flywheel along w/ a clutch nut. I got an aluminum clutch set up today but the shoes only went on half way and they are incredibly hard to move. I tried to get them off but now they are ruined along with the flywheel. :( So I just ordered a mip 4n1. I installed everything on the chassis today. The engine looks awesome on there. :D I put the rx pack on the front shock tower so hopefully it is alittle more controllable. (sp?)

[Tim'sLosi]

It won't let me edit my post.

The 625 uses a different kind of plug than the otherservo. It fits in the reciever but nothing will move when that one is plugged in. I'll just keep it for when I upgrade to fm but is there anyway to make it work?

This article may help you. You have to switch the wires around.
http://www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/servos.html

[potatoe_bird]

Ok, thanks for the link. I'm going to go try it. :)

I can't wait to get the clutch and flywheel in. I want to break in my os 18 cvr. :D

[Raster]

I just got an RC10GT Plus RTR (haven't even run it, yet - it's my first nitro...). Anyway, what is the top speed of this truck?

Are there any tips for increasing the speed? What's involved in replacing the engine with an O.S. .18 or something?

Thanks for any help,
Ras

[potatoe_bird]

Remove the carb restrictor. I just put an os 18 in my gt. :D You have to get the steel idler, aluminum diff gear and the robinson racing steel spur and clutch bell set.

I reversed the wires and it still didn't work??? Is it toast? I just got it so I guess if it is I'll send it back to tower and say it was defective. lol

[Saboteur]

I just got an RC10GT Plus RTR (haven't even run it, yet - it's my first nitro...). Anyway, what is the top speed of this truck?

Are there any tips for increasing the speed? What's involved in replacing the engine with an O.S. .18 or something?

Thanks for any help,
Ras

About 30-35mph. Nice acceleration. It's fast as it is. Burn some gallons through that engine before upgrading. Spend your next chunk of cash on new servos, spare parts, tires, etc before upgrading to a new powerplant. Those are things you will need most.

[slaf]

Stock engine is a good engine. Learn to drive with this mill and after get somethine with a little bit more HP. OS .18 is alot of power for a 2wd stadium. It's too much power !!!

I ran my GT in the snow yesterday....It was fun but hard to control...Donuts...Donuts and donuts...:) I didn't want to run in the snow but nitro called me....UUMMMM nitro smell :)

[Raster]

Will the stock RC10GT do wheelies?

[potatoe_bird]

no

man your at home at 12:09? I'm just here for a snack (oven pizza lol) then I'm out. :)

[LLLosingit]

Will the stock RC10GT do wheelies?
Yes, It really depends on your setup and running conditions.
I run my slipper tighter when bashing so I can get it to pull the front tires up instantly.
The stock motor has more than enough power you just have to get the tires hooked up with all the power the motor puts out. you have to have the right clutch setup,gear,tires,traction ect...

[ritchies rc10gt]

This article may help you. You have to switch the wires around.
http://www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/servos.html


its alot eaisier than that,just cut the tab off with a hobby knife and make sure the black wire is in the same place as the others when you plug it in.i do it all the time and it dont hurt a thing.

[Saboteur]

Will the stock RC10GT do wheelies?

Unless you have the slipper locked tight, you are on a high traction surface, or a bump in the road keeps your front end in the air. Other than than, it's not a wheelie machine.

[slaf]

Does anybody run a RC10GT with a OS .18 CVR ? How the truck handle all this power ? Is this too much power ??

[potatoe_bird]

I do. :) It's alittle much for a stadium truck but it's really fun. :D You might want to gear up alittle too.

[Raster]

Does anybody run a RC10GT with a OS .18 CVR ? How the truck handle all this power ? Is this too much power ??

slaf,

I'm thinking about putting this or the .18TZ in mine... Should be able to wheelie on demand.

Ras

[LLLosingit]

..,,,,

[slaf]

Raster -> I don't want a wheelie machine... :)

[khigerd]

My son and I are putting together a couple of RC10GT's and when you got to the brake assembly we ran into a problem. His brakes drag a fair amount, enough that you can't spin the spur gear freely. When we installed the brake rod, we had to squeeze the brake shoe and disk to get the rod into the bottom hole. Now neither the disk or shoe are loose like on my truck. I'm guessing that either the holes for the rod are not right or the disk is thicker. Has anyone encountered this before and what would be the best way to fix it? I don't think we want to run it this way.

Thanks

[hotrodpablo]

My son and I are putting together a couple of RC10GT's and when you got to the brake assembly we ran into a problem. His brakes drag a fair amount, enough that you can't spin the spur gear freely. When we installed the brake rod, we had to squeeze the brake shoe and disk to get the rod into the bottom hole. Now neither the disk or shoe are loose like on my truck. I'm guessing that either the holes for the rod are not right or the disk is thicker. Has anyone encountered this before and what would be the best way to fix it? I don't think we want to run it this way.

Thanks

You might want to try disassembling the brakes and check it over. I also own 2 gt's and have not ran it to this. try assembling the brake squeeze plates with the linkage then slide the brake disk and transmission into the brake squeeze plates and bracket. if this works please let me know.

[khigerd]

You might want to try disassembling the brakes and check it over. I also own 2 gt's and have not ran it to this. try assembling the brake squeeze plates with the linkage then slide the brake disk and transmission into the brake squeeze plates and bracket. if this works please let me know.

I disassembled the brakes and removed the disk for the shaft. When I take the brake bracket assembly and insert the disk between the bracket and the shoe, the disk still fits snug.

Thoughts?

[slaf]

For me it look like a disk problem. Do you use this disk -> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3362&P=M

Tower says that the disk is 3/32" thick, how thick is your disk ?? Maybe you can compare disk thickness with the disk on your truck.

Also maybe a bent rod -> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3364&P=M

[khigerd]

For me it look like a disk problem. Do you use this disk -> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3362&P=M

Tower says that the disk is 3/32" thick, how thick is your disk ?? Maybe you can compare disk thickness with the disk on your truck.

Also maybe a bent rod -> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3364&P=M

The rod looks to be OK, but when I compared the thickness of the disk, the one appeared to be a little thicker. I sanded it down a little and now seems to work better.

[jc2stroke2]

hi ,dont mean to intirupt but im sick of my buddy runin circles around me he has a 2.5 rusty what kind or power plant do you all recomend something that will rev in the 30s oh and im not wantin to refinance my house to buy it ethir prferibly a drop in for the gt thanks jared

[doesgo]

O.S. .18CV-R, you can get them for under $100 at Tower with or without a pullstart. Gear your truck accordingly.

[jc2stroke2]

yea ithought about that engine,its got have nuts .Will a 2.5 traxxas fit then we could have a fair race. jared

[doesgo]

It'd be a major pain to get a TRX in there (funky exhaust and crank), and to be honest, I'd stay as far away from the TRX 2.5 as I could. OS CV-Rs are fantastic engines, TRXs are very inconsistent (in both operating characteristics and the power and reliability from one engine to the next).

[hotrodpablo]

I have to agree with doesgo. I run the .12 cv-r in my gt and it is as forgiving as can be. easy to tune and stays tuned. I can only imagine that the .18 would be the same.

[Fantom 15 gt]

The traxxas cranks are the same as the Associated .15 crank. It would be preaty easy (if you have the RTR plus) to put in and to figure out the exauhst just get a traxxas rear exauhst header. Then again the O.S. .18 is always nice.

[doesgo]

That's true, a Rustler TRX exhaust should work.

[Tim'sLosi]

No matter which engine you use the GT is a much lighter truck in stock trim. You should be faster even with a 15CV-R. The rustler 2.5 has a heavy top deck and shock tower/body mount assys. The GT is bare minimum in that respect unless you added a bunch of aluminum parts to it. If you race him on the street make sure you use a sticky tire, tighten the slipper, fill the tank halfway and go a little lean. Also keep the tuned pipe close to the manifold pipe in the coupler to give you more top end.

[jc2stroke2]

ok, ill try that .The thing is that the 2.5 makes 39000 rpm,the rc10dont even come close. Im gonna get a high revin engine to settle the score. thinkin about a .12 i hear they can makesome good power to. That rustler is heavy but its twiceas powerfull. Iwould just get a rustler but i already opened my big mouth about how much better the rc10 is. Allthough that rustler can take a beetin far worse than my gt but i make him look silly on our track.He cant controll it ,it is far to powerfull for the track we built.

[doesgo]

You can have great speed with a lower-revving engine if you gear it accordingly, and conversely, dropping in a 39,000 rpm engine doesn't guarantee a high top speed because you have to gear that properly, too. But it sounds like you've already made up your mind.

That said, if it's revs you want, get a Fantom.

[jc2stroke2]

I tried changing gears with little luck ifi geared high enough to make a differnce it would be so sluggish that it would barly spin its tires has any one ever put a big block in a gt ??????

[Saboteur]

ok, ill try that .The thing is that the 2.5 makes 39000 rpm,the rc10dont even come close. Im gonna get a high revin engine to settle the score. thinkin about a .12 i hear they can makesome good power to. That rustler is heavy but its twiceas powerfull. Iwould just get a rustler but i already opened my big mouth about how much better the rc10 is. Allthough that rustler can take a beetin far worse than my gt but i make him look silly on our track.He cant controll it ,it is far to powerfull for the track we built.

The 2.5 will rev upto 36k or so, not 39k. It's true though the Rustler is the king of bashing, but the GT is better at racing. Settle for either the Fantom .12 SE engine and atleast you'd also have control on the track. With the .18cvr, you'd be all over the place just as much as him.

[doesgo]

Your gearing needs to match the characteristics of your engine no matter how much power it puts out or how many rpm it pulls. If you put a revver in there you need to drop a tooth or two on the clutch bell so it can get out of its own way off the line. If you put a torquer in there you need to add a tooth or two to the bell so you don't annihilate the tires every time you touch the trigger, but then run out of rpm at 30mph. Just because gearing up with the stock engine causes it to be a dog off the line doesn't mean the same thing will result with a different engine.

The O.S. .18CV-R, if geared and tuned properly in your GT, should out-power your friends TRX-powered Rustler without any trouble, it's as simple as that. There are other options, but nothing compares to what you get for your money.

[Budman_222]

has any one ever put a big block in a gt ??????

Toyotatogo has one. He das 1/8th buggy wheels on his. I agree with doesgo, the cv-r 18 is plenty of engine for the gt. I stuck one in mine. Have to wait for the snow to go away to find out what it will do.


http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=162811

[jc2stroke2]

i agree too all i ment no was no matter what the gears are if the hp aint there itisnt gonna have the power it needs to take off im gonna get a os then change gears if i can find one high enough i couldonly find a couple sizes ,jared

[jc2stroke2]

also i wantone with slide carb and the one that fits the gt is a different part # do i just cut the crank off to make it fit thanks,jared

[doesgo]

If you get a "threaded crank" you can just cut the snout of the crank off to make it work on the GT. Just don't get the "pilot shaft" crank.

[tjones]

I just bought a GT plus!!! havent even run it yet because of the snow. I have a brand new trx 2.5r off of a revov and I want to put it on my GT. I know it was mentioned in earlier thread but I am really serious about doing it. If it can make my Revo move like it does logic tells me that it will really make the GT fly. If anybody out there has done it please give me the green light on doing this. I dont want to get into the middle of the project and find out it wont work. I have an old GT tub chassis that I would like to try it on first but I want some idea that it is possible before I start....

[Fantom 15 gt]

I haven't done it but i've been told the Traxxas crank is the same as the AE .15 crank. It should be a direct fit with the exeption of the throttle linkage and manifold/pipe. If you want to put it in your tub GT you'll need to use the clutch nut from the RTR Plus.

[powerstroke01]

The mod list grows.. .

The only things not stock are few and far between.. Ill prolly post pics tomorow.. Even though ive got more junk on the way.. haha

So hows everyone been doing? I havent raced in like 6 months. :(

Well, more like 3.. :eek:

[Fantom 15 gt]

Mines getting loooong too. Just added a Fantom works single chamber tuned pipe.

[rc10gtroller]

Is AE gonna come out with a new truck soon? If not it might be losi for me.
Is there anybody left on their team?

[atm92484_3]

I hope they do. I have the itch to run stadium truck again this season; my FT GT should be ready to go after I rebuild a few things, but it would be nice to have something new to start with.

Fantom, the 2.5 and the AE engines for the GT share the same length crank, but are different diameters. The AE crank has a 3/16" diameter while the 2.5 crank has a 5mm diameter. The only way around this would be to use metric bells on the GT.

[mdracer]

well theres been talk but nothing done for about 5 yrs so...
but the gt ft gt can be a dominent force with the widening kits
and have you ever heard like jared tebo, richard saxon (i dont think i spelled that right) and theres plenty more but they're all associated drivers

[ritchies rc10gt]

i have 2 sirio engines.wich would be better in the gt?i have a regular .12 turbo engine and an evo 2

[Saboteur]

Both will be more than enough for your car.

[ritchies rc10gt]

Both will be more than enough for your car.

ok thanx,i have the fantom .15 in it now.but i want something a little faster

[Saboteur]

A little faster is a big understatement for those Sirio's ;). Thats to let ya know just how much of a change you will make.

[powerstroke01]

OK. After months i have finnally gotten some time to take some pics. So here they are..

http://www.mustangmods.com/data/11089/img_0644_small.jpg

http://www.mustangmods.com/data/11089/img_0654_small.jpg

http://www.mustangmods.com/data/11089/small.jpg


Any questions, just ask! :cool:

[Piggy89373]

When are you going to nitro proof your electronics? I'd recommend plastic dipping the servos and getting an RPM receiver box. Throw the box on there, get some packing foam, drop in the receiver and failsafe, a bit more foam, and you're totally set. Also, since you've put some much time, effort, and money into that pretty creation, don't forget a TRS. (If you have one, disregard previous comment about TRS)

Before I forget, that's purdy!

[Saboteur]

Sweet. You will love that engine. Plenty of power. :)

[powerstroke01]

Yup, This motor has LOTS of power..Cant keep the front end down and still run 190 degrees..Also keeps a tune like nothing else ive ever run.. This is my second one. My first one went "pop" after a mashalling accident.. haha

The truck hasnt been raced for a few months. Mostly just a shelf queen now.. But when i do race it its not babied. THats for sure..

Dont have a TRS yet. Its next on my list though..

Im going to water proof the electronics soon. I need to get a smaller reciever though. This thing is HUGE..

Thanks for the compliments!

[powerstroke01]

Ive also got a King Headz head for that motor. THat thing is SWEET!

[Saboteur]

powerstroke-Glad you like it also. Few people badmouthed it because they didn't know how to tune or got faulty engines and blamed the company for it. I never had a problem with them whatsoever.

[powerstroke01]

powerstroke-Glad you like it also. Few people badmouthed it because they didn't know how to tune or got faulty engines and blamed the company for it. I never had a problem with them whatsoever.
The first one i had was VERY finicky and took us a month to get it running right. And would only run when it was leaned WAYYYY out. Most of the problem was an airleak that i solved.. But it still wouldnt run less than 250.. Thank goodness it popped. I hated that motor.

[banshee]

will the .21 associated motor fit in the rc10gt???

[slaf]

Hi all !

Did anyone replace the stock TT .15 engine with a OS .12CVR or OS .18CVR ???

How the truck handle with one of those engines ?

Is there a noticable power gain with the .12 CVR ?

Is .18 too much torque for the tranny ?

[mdracer]

big gain on the cv-r.....
What engine is that powerstroke it looks sweet!!

[Saboteur]

Man I love that friggin picco rc speed engine. They look great and perform great. Too bad I'd have to turn to RB now since I can't find them anymore :(.

[hotrodpablo]

Hi all !

Did anyone replace the stock TT .15 engine with a OS .12CVR or OS .18CVR ???

How the truck handle with one of those engines ?

Is there a noticable power gain with the .12 CVR ?

Is .18 too much torque for the tranny ?


I put the .12 CVR in the GT about 2 years ago and it's still running like a champ. Easy to tune, holds it's settings, and overall very reliable. There was a slight gain in power. The .18 should not hurt the tranny at all. just make sure that the slipper and the diff are set right.

[slaf]

Did you get the pilot shaft version or the short version ?

[Saboteur]

I'm all for SG. Unfortunately not all stadium trucks take SG. The GT can though with a new clutch setup. :)

[hotrodpablo]

Did you get the pilot shaft version or the short version ?
I used the short version. only additional hardware was a clutch nut. Used the stock flywheel with the MIP clutch.

[slaf]

Does the OS SG shaft is the same as stock SG shaft or do I need something special to fit an OS engine with SG shaft ?

[Saboteur]

Fantom said to use the entire stock Tmaxx clutch setup to fit and SG crank in the GT. That would do the trick.

[slaf]

Do you know where I can find aluminum rear hub carrier ?

[hotrodpablo]

Do you know where I can find aluminum rear hub carrier ?

http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=1289

Its from GPM. blue aluminum. should be what you are looking for.

[Budman_222]

Do you know where I can find aluminum rear hub carrier ?


They're on e bay all the time. This one has 6 1/2 days left.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5959914862&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[slaf]

Thanks !

[G10products]

Check out my new front shock tower-

[wishmasstir]

shock tower looks good

[wishmasstir]

i bought the team associated 4 shoe clutch assembly for my rtr gt ... is this a pull start flywheel or non pull start ... i want to know cause i'm looking into getting a new .12 non pull start and don't know if this works with a bump starter

[Piggy89373]

The flywheel you bought has the same diameter and thickness of a non-pullstart flywheel. You're the first person I know of that's going with the 4 shoe clutch assembly. Most others I know, myself included, use the MIP 4in1 clutch with great happiness and success.

Quick fact for you, the pull start flywheel is actually larger than the non-pull start. Pull start flywheel has a diameter of 40 mm while the non-pull has a 30 mm diameter (facts courtesy of Tower Hobbies)

[wishmasstir]

i was going to go with the mip 4 in 1 clutch but it wasn't in stock at the lhs but they had the associated 4 shoe ... it works great ... i had an xtm .18 in the truck at the time and i kept spinning clutch bell bearings in it ... thought it might have something to do with higher rpms on the bell or something but it turns out it was just a spun main bearing in the xtm after only a quart of fuel

[G10products]

I use a four shoe, just havn't had a reason to replace it yet. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[djdiggler]

I'll post in this thread in hopes the dictator that mods this section won't erase this like he's erased everything I've tried to post so far for no apparent reason.

I just bought a RC10GT RTR and had a few questions.

1. Do I need any special tools to build it?

2. It's called RTR, is there any assembly required?

3. Is there any tips to build, use, and maintain this truck?

4. What is the best nitro fuel to use?

5. Has there been any articles from radio control car action that state how fast this truck goes?

thanks for all the help its been 15 years since I've had an rc car. I used to race my Bolinks indoors, and bought a Kyosho raider for around the yard and those were fast then. I can't wait to see how much better these nitro vehicles will be. But I'll tell you those old cars used to fly.

[hotrodpablo]

I'll post in this thread in hopes the dictator that mods this section won't erase this like he's erased everything I've tried to post so far for no apparent reason.

I just bought a RC10GT RTR and had a few questions.

1. Do I need any special tools to build it?

2. It's called RTR, is there any assembly required?

3. Is there any tips to build, use, and maintain this truck?

4. What is the best nitro fuel to use?

5. Has there been any articles from radio control car action that state how fast this truck goes?

thanks for all the help its been 15 years since I've had an rc car. I used to race my Bolinks indoors, and bought a Kyosho raider for around the yard and those were fast then. I can't wait to see how much better these nitro vehicles will be. But I'll tell you those old cars used to fly.

There are no special tools needed to build it. You might down the road get a good quality 1/16 allen wrench. There is no assebly required except installing the batteries. The Gt will take allot of abuse but there will be things that break. You could look the RCScrews, screw kit to help replace any screws that you might lose. Any 20 percent nitro fuel works good. I tend to stay with what's available at the LHS. (normally trinity, or odonnell, blue thunder). I have never seen any speed test done on the RTR. I would estimate that with the carb restrictor its about 30 to 35MPH. Hope this helps.

[G10products]

#3

I could tell you more that you ever wanted to know, but you probably wouldn't listen, agree, or get all of it. The best way to find out is to take it, go outside, and tear it up. Fix it and repeat. Eventually youll start to learn what works and what doesn't.

[djdiggler]

Well I got it now and have tried to get it started and she's a no go. :mad:

I don't know if its because I have to let the stupid glo plug starter charge for the full 16 hours or what but even after letting the glo starter charge for like 4 hours it won't even let me start it once. This doesn't make any sense to me. I turn on the radio, then the car, then hold the front a little higher than the back like the manual says, and pull start it. I don't think I'm missing any steps am I?

Plus what is supposed to hold that battery thing in the car? It slides out real easy and it doesn't look like it came with anything to hold it in place. Should I just use a standard zip tie? I didn't yet because I thought it would be stupid to have to cut the zip tie everytime I go to change the batteries.

Last thing should I run it off the ground for a full tank at half throttle first before I let it run half throttle on the ground during the break in period?

Thanks for the help.

[TRF Drive Hard]

I'll post in this thread in hopes the dictator that mods this section won't erase this like he's erased everything I've tried to post so far for no apparent reason.

FYI, these rules are necessary (especially in the Vehicle Forums) to properly navigate the flow of threads being made... half the time there are duplicate threads and are not needed for this section of the forum... feel free to post your question in the nitro forum, but if its about a specific vehicle you wish to know about, search the vehicle forum, chances are the answer lies here... no one is deleting your post, i see no record whats so ever... so before you go declaring this forum to be dictator-type, i urge you to read the Forum Rules. If you dont find the Forum Rules fitting to your liking, feel free to move on... but dont come on here accusing the Administrators and Moderators being dictators... :rolleyes:

You must have missed this section...
These forums are for posting threads that pertain to specific vehicles. Its purpose is to create a place for discussion between owners and enthusiasts of a particular vehicle. If you would like to post general threads like, “should I buy this truck?” or “Which is better, this buggy or that buggy?” or “What engine should I get for this truck?” they should be posted in the appropriate section of the General R/C Forums, or you can asked within an existing thread; please do not post that type of thread here.

Always search for an existing thread before posting one. Only when you're certain that there's not an existing thread should you try to post a new one. All new threads are moderated and will only appear once approved by a moderator to prevent the posting of threads that do not belong in this section.

We recognize that many of us are passionate and biased towards the cars and trucks we own. This can often result in a heated debate between proud owners, but there is no place for that here. These forums and threads are exclusively for sharing information between owners and enthusiasts of a specific vehicle. Do not visit a thread of a competing vehicle to try and prove how your choice of vehicle is better. You will not convince them to change their mind, nor will they convince you to do the same.

Thank you and Enjoy!

[djdiggler]

Ok so if noone was deleting my post that was car specific and belonged in this section as per your own rules, then where is the thread I tried to start twice. Also I didn't call all the moderators and admins dictators only the one who decided to not let my thread go through for no apparent reason. I found it ridiculous that I had to post my question that was specific to my vehicle in an already existing thread, that happens to be already 67 pages long. Not everyone wants to scroll through multiple pages to try and find what they are looking for. :rolleyes:

Now beyond that can anyone answer my previous question it would be greatly appreciated :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

I just registered in this site and went to start my first thread and after I submit it, I'm told the moderator might be filtering them first. So why is other people's new threads being posted and not mine?

You did say "first thread"

So if anything, a new thread is filtered... but it is highly unlikely for a post not to show in an already existing thread...

[djdiggler]

Oh my god can someone help me out here. I come here for some help and all I get is this damn admin that wants to argue with people and not help them in anyway. If I say your right I'm wrong will you freaking drop the subject?

All I want to know is why my new car won't start? I let the glow plug starter charge overnight, filled the tank with nitro fuel, put pre filter oil in the air filters, turned on the radio, then the car, attached the glow plug starter, then tried to pull start it......And I get nothing. Is there a reason why this is happening? Talk about frustrating.

[djdiggler]

Now I got it started it stalls alot which is what the manual says it will.

How hot is the heat sink on top of the engine supposed to get? It's getting to the point where if you touch it, you'll burn your finger. Does that sound normal :confused:

[doesgo]

Sounds a little warm to me, at least during break-in. I'd suggest the water test. Put a few drops of water on the head next to the glow plug (while it's running) and if it vaporizes almost instantly it's too hot, if it sits there and does nothing it's probably too cold, and if boils off after a few seconds you're in the ballpark.

[G10products]

It shouldn't burn you bad unless you hold your hand there, it should hurt though.

[djdiggler]

Yeah it burns off immediately. That means I'm running to lean right?

Other problem I have is when it runs I'll slowly go to almost full throttle then down like it says to do but when I get higher up in the rpms it sputters then dies. I associated this with being to lean so I tried to richen it up, which doesn't seem to help at all.

Also my steering vears to the left if I let go off the contols. How do I align the tires to drive straight?

Any Suggestions?

[slow one 2]

djdiggler;
welcome to the world of nitro, i'm sure once you get the bugs worked out you will be very happy with your gt...
i think you will find that a lot of the gt drivers in this forum go to this thread when they log on not to look at new threads, so posting your problems here will more than likely get you your answers.
as i can only get 2-3 gallons out of an engine i'll leave the tuning/breaking in to the others. with your transmitter and receiver on, how do your wheels point. if its very close to straight you should have a trim knob on your remote that you can turn to adjust the steering. if the wheels are pointed way to the left you may need to take the arm off the steering servo and move it a notch or two.

[rocknbil]

dj you're going to need to learn some patience. You can't just drop it and run, there's a lot to be learned. You need to learn to tune, you need to learn how to set the clutch and diff, and most of all you come in with guns blazing talking about dictatorship without any idea (or concern) as to why things are the way they are. There are reasons and dictatorship has nothing to do with them.

Yes the battery pack is zip-tied in. You can see the slots in the tray for it. Buy a pack of zip-ties for this purpose. If you think it's stupid, wait until the first time you're running at full throttle and that sucker falls out. It never ends pretty. :D

Let's start from square one: your receiver pack is all charged and zip-tied in (under protest, I'm sure :D ) all electronics are turn ON, you're jiggleing and jabbing the control and it looks like all electronics are working, correct? This is important - you MUST make sure the truck is responding correctly.

Now: before you go any further, remove the air filter and look in the carb. Work the throttle from gas to brake. You should see a sliver of an opening, about the thickness of a credit card, for air to enter the carb. No? Adjust the idle stop screw until it's about that far open. Replace the air filter and never ever run without it.

Now hold a finger over the exhaust and pull the crank a few times until the fuel comes up the fuel line and just comes to the carb. Give it ONE pull more, any more and you'll risk flooding. NOW put the glow start on and see what's up.

If it still doesn't start, remove the glow plug and put it on the glow start, make sure it's glowing. It should at least start at this point. If not review the manual for factory spec settings and open (enrich, counterclockwise) the high speed needly 1/4 turn and try again.

Break-in: yes, run the truck on the ground, under load, at low speeds and very rich for 5-8 tanks, allowing the engine to completely cool between tanks. Idling IMO is a waste of time and fuel.

As for steering: with the TX trim aligned dead center, first make sure the thumbwheel on the steering linkage servo saver is snug. Too loose and it will cause sloppy steering. Now get out your turnbuckle wrench and adjust the steering linkages to get perfect center alignment, toe-in, and camber.

[djdiggler]

[QUOTE=rocknbil]dj you're going to need to learn some patience. You can't just drop it and run, there's a lot to be learned. You need to learn to tune, you need to learn how to set the clutch and diff, and most of all you come in with guns blazing talking about dictatorship without any idea (or concern) as to why things are the way they are. There are reasons and dictatorship has nothing to do with them.[QUOTE=rocknbil]

Fair enough :)


[QUOTE=rocknbil]Let's start from square one: your receiver pack is all charged and zip-tied in (under protest, I'm sure :D ) [QUOTE=rocknbil]

HAHAHAHAHA! That was just hilarious :D


[QUOTE=rocknbil]As for steering: with the TX trim aligned dead center, first make sure the thumbwheel on the steering linkage servo saver is snug. Too loose and it will cause sloppy steering. Now get out your turnbuckle wrench and adjust the steering linkages to get perfect center alignment, toe-in, and camber.[QUOTE=rocknbil]

This part I don't get really is there anyway you can elaborate on it a little more?


Besides that I called associated for help and they are AWESOME! They helped me tune the truck over the phone and all I have to say is holy crap this thing is absolutely insane. I am so damn impressed I'm about to go out and race some cars for pink slip with it. HAHAHA :D

Thanks for the help guys. :)

[rocknbil]

If you look at the steering linkage, you will see a wheel about 1/2" in diameter with knurling on it like it's supposed to be turned by hand. This adjusts the pressure on the steering linkage so if it takes a hard hit, it "gives" so it doesn't break the servo. The tighter it is, the less give. If it's too loose the steering will wobbly back and forth.

With your RTR came a flat wrench with a big hex on one end and a small one on the other. The small end will fit the hexes on your steering and camber turnbuckes - the rods that hold the suspension together. You can adjust their length by turning them; they are threaded left-hand on one end and right-hand on the other so that turning them either shortens or lengthens the rods.

[G10products]

Some action shots I took just today...

[G10products]

I got a problem if anyone has any ideas for a fix...
When jumping as high as I do the chassis just cannot hold up and the gear mesh gets messed up alot. The blacktub had the same problem and was replaced by the blue chassis, but thats bending on me now also. Im kind of tossing around a few ideas, but none seem satisfactory. Right now the best I can come up with is to bolt the engine and tranny togeather as a single unit and then bolt that to the chassis so that even if the chassis bends it wont strip the spur.

[doesgo]

Have you tried the Trinity chassis brace? It works wonders and has allowed us at www.slapmafro.com to do things like this with an old tub chassis without chassis damage:

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/139_3937.jpg

[wishmasstir]

i built a 4 foot high skateboard vert ramp for my gt ... we all jump it though ... your best bet at saving the chassis is the trinity chassis brace like doesgo said ... i don't even use that though ... just have a friend catch it before it hits the ground, this will always save the chassis and allow you to jump anything no problem ... or position the jump so there is actually a downside for whenever you land it ... it'll absorb the hard impact

[G10products]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMA03&P=7

Is this what you are talking about? As far as catching its hard to get enough people to be able to do that, usually everone is ethier holding a camera, driving/repairing their car, or just flat out won't do it.

[wishmasstir]

we make sure we have someone there to catch them if we are doing something really stupid like jumping our actual vehicles in the parking lots

that part will help a lot ... especially when you combine it with this-->

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAFX7&P=7

i know i saw a different engine mount brace before ... i could of swore it was from trinity ... it is one piece and had the engine mount and the lower tranny brace built into it ... it also came out past the flywheel. Really nice part, honestly i think i saw it on ebay last week ... maybe somebody else on here could help you with that information though ... sorry

also if you really want your chassis to be solid ... new era makes a double deck chassis and even a roll bar ... don't know if that will help with gear mesh though

[doesgo]

You must be referring to this one, as was I:

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/trinitybrace3.jpg

[G10products]

That part looks exactly the same as the stock part...

Ill look for that engine mount brace though.

[doesgo]

Here's a stock mount, quite a difference from the Trinity mount.

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/enginemount2.jpg

[G10products]

??? Doesgo, you posted before I hit relpy.

I want to know if WishMastr is talking about the one in the pic. That one looks strong, but I don't know how it'd fit on a blue plate chassis and I don't think I have my old engine mounts anymore (the black piece).

That is also one seriously worn out diff outdrive, I thought mine was bad.

[wishmasstir]

yeah the one doesgo posted on the truck is the one i was talking about

it looks like the bent up edge on the blue chassis would need to be cut down to clear that mount since the mount looks completely flush with the chassis

the other mount shown by doesgo ... the stock ones ... were those for the tub chassis cause i have a rtr pull start engine mount and its completely different from this ... the new non pull start engine mounts are also different in design ... my rtr mount doesn't give me any flex problems at all ... maybe you could even just try getting the newer version of these and giving them a shot

[G10products]

To clear things up I don't have a blacktub. Is there anything else for the blue plate chassis besides the Trinity tranny brace?

[doesgo]

I'm not sure what fits what chassis anymore, there are so many different mounts and different chassis pullstart and non-pull and all that. I just try to find one that works and go with it!

Yeah, that outdrive is toast! Actually the current owner of the truck might still be using it, I don't recall hearing if he ever replaced it.

[offroadcrazy01]

Out drives bend like that if you run your gt to low to the ground

[rocknbil]

To clear things up I don't have a blacktub. Is there anything else for the blue plate chassis besides the Trinity tranny brace?

It shouldn't be necessary, but there is a chassis stiffener that will eliminate chassis flex on ANY GT. I'll see if I can find a pic of the one I sold, it's a 1/4" round bar that goes from the front engine mount, up under the carb inlet, and attaches to the forward tranny mount. Although designed for the tub it will fit on a blue chassis.

[jnegrx]

The Trinity one will not fit on the blue chassis without some mods.

[Tim'sLosi]

[RC-10 GT PLUS FOR SALE FULL WORKS (CAR, X-TRA BODY, X-TRA GAS, TOOL BOX, EVERY THING


Could you talk a little louder please! Oh, and if you are selling something we have a forum for that... http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/forumdisplay.php?f=226

[rocknbil]

Hmm. Three posts. Screaming like a pop-up window. Not interested now for sure. :D lol

[offroadcrazy01]

any body here racing any of the rcproseries

[rocknbil]

The Trinity one will not fit on the blue chassis without some mods.

The bottom one as shown above, correct. But the one I'm talking about will fit. IT goes up around the carb, not a swap-out for the motor mount. Still looking for the pic (Know I've got one SOMEwhere . . . . )

[J_Bone]

I just picked up a RC10 Gt an i have a quetion.
Does the clutch shoes have no springs? I knoticed mine didn't and I'm looking throught the online manual and it doesn't show any springs.

[hotrodpablo]

I just picked up a RC10 Gt an i have a quetion.
Does the clutch shoes have no springs? I knoticed mine didn't and I'm looking throught the online manual and it doesn't show any springs.

No the stock clutch shoes do not have springs. I would recommend changing to the MIP 4-in-1 clutch.

[doesgo]

I would too! Great clutch.

[J_Bone]

ok, cool. I just ordered the MIP clutch.

Thanks

[waveracer]

Hey guys I was just wondering if this engine would fit in this truck? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA43&P=ML . If not, could you recommend an engine that will? Thanks

[J_Bone]

Hey guys I was just wondering if this engine would fit in this truck? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA43&P=ML . If not, could you recommend an engine that will? Thanks

I think it would??
But this would and it's suppose to be better....OS TR (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM5&P=0)

[doesgo]

What do you want to do with the truck, waveracer? That both engines mentioned will fit, as will the .18CV-R which is even more powerful, but isn't legal for racing. All three are great engines.

[Mystracing]

The 12CV-RX(S) is a direct drop in for the GT. The (S) denotes a short shaft for the RC10GT. The TR will need to have the crank shaft cut off.

The GT originally had springs on the stock clutch shoes, but everyone just tossed them so Associated quit putting them in the kit around 98.

[Ed237]

The OS .12 CV-RX is a direct replacement for the RTR AE .15 but you will need this clutch nut:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3371&P=Z

I put a Roto-start on my CV-RX and used a non pull start motor mount. I just split the motor mount in 2 and cut off the extra metal where the roto start goes. I also installed the smaller non pull start flywheel.

Now my motor is a low and as far back as it can go which is good for racing.

[waveracer]

alright thanx guys, i wont do much racing with it because i dont have a local track. Alaska sucks

[Saboteur]

No the stock clutch shoes do not have springs. I would recommend changing to the MIP 4-in-1 clutch.

There should be springs on the clutch shoes otherwise the clutch wouldn't be engaging.

[Ed237]

Alaska? I bet you have a lot of great places to run for a monster truck!

I can also confirm that the stock clutch with my GT did not use springs. They are 2 white teflon shoes that are always in contact with the clutch bell. I guess they slip until the revs reach a certain piont. Needless to say, I was not impressed with the stock clultch shoes and replaced it with the MIP version which does have a spring.

Heres a link to the stock shoes (note - no spring)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3370&P=Z

[doesgo]

There's also a four-shoe setup, I think from AE, that doesn't have springs. My buddy tried it and hated it. The good ol' MIP 4-in-1 is tough to beat!

[J_Bone]

That's what Tebo uses.

[waveracer]

yeah, theres a gravel pit by my house where i bash my savage 25, but the owner doesnt like me going there

[bizaare69]

Hey all

my rc10gt tooka bad tumble and i broke some stuff i broke my rear bulkhead and the mounts on the transmission so now i gotta find a new transmission and buying a brand new one is expensive holy crap maybe ebay has something but you know if anyone could help me out at all let me know prices for it and stuff thnx guys i know i can count on you.

[Tim'sLosi]

http://search.ebay.com/rc10gt-transmission_W0QQsojsZ1QQfromZR40

[doesgo]

You probably only broke the tranny case, I'd guess the gears are fine. You can get a new case from most hobby stores for less than $10. Also get a new RPM bulkhead, they're tougher than stock. Also cheap.

[bizaare69]

k well i was driving it thanks to some ca glue lol that didnt hold to long but all of a sudden it stoppped moving it appears now that i took the case apart that the huge gear with the axles isnt spinning correctly if you turn one side the other should spin opposite also right yea it does nothing. so ill need a new one of those to the list grows but hey its nitro. thnx guys


Edit: i believe its the diff assembly how expensive for that?

[rocknbil]

There should be springs on the clutch shoes otherwise the clutch wouldn't be engaging.

No, what happens is the clutch is almost always engaged. As long as you keep the idle speed correct, it won't burn anything up.

bizarre get out your manual man, you probably just need to tighten the diff or put new diff rings and balls in it. As for the breakage yeah you probably only need a new case, new I think they are only $12 or so.

[bizaare69]

Hey Rocknbil whats going on long time no talk ive missed you i think lol yea ill take a lok i dont know how to get it apart though ????

EDIT: apon further reviw it apears that it is slightly grabbing but the diff assembly is sliding i think a tightening would be in good effect now if i could only figure out how thnx bil

[Tim'sLosi]

Hey all

my rc10gt tooka bad tumble and i broke some stuff i broke my rear bulkhead and the mounts on the transmission so now i gotta find a new transmission and buying a brand new one is expensive holy crap maybe ebay has something but you know if anyone could help me out at all let me know prices for it and stuff thnx guys i know i can count on you.


Check this ad out...there's a case in there. http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29494

[rocknbil]

EDIT: apon further reviw it apears that it is slightly grabbing but the diff assembly is sliding i think a tightening would be in good effect now if i could only figure out how thnx bil

Same stuff, different year. :D
Still have your manual? If not go to http://www.teamassociated.com and download one.

If you remove the passenger side rear camber link - that's the rod holding the top of the rear suspension - the wheel hub wil flop down and allow you to slide out the dogbone (or CVD's, if you got them.) Where the end of the dogbone comes out of the tranny outdrive, you will be able to slide in an allen wrench to access the diff bolt. (Don't remember what size, expirament.)

Don't overtighten it, it will break. Tighten it down good and snug, then back off 1/8 turn.

Even so I'll bet you're due for a rebuild. After tightening it, turn one wheel while holding the spur, the other wheel shoud turn the opposite direction and it should feel smooth. If it feels gritty, time for new rings and balls.

When you tear down the tranny, be VERY CAREFUL when you remove the diff bolt. There are two washers with six tiny ball bearings between them - this whole group is called the thrust bearing assembly. Don't lose these balls, and replace them and the washers when you do the rebuild.

A basic rebuild, if nothing else is wring, consists of
diff rings
hardened steel diff balls
thrust washers and thrust washer balls (if necessary)
Idler gear*
Diff gear, if worn
Fresh dab of silicone grease

There are others but you rarely need to change them unless you're running bushings and not bearings in the tranny. *The idler gear is the middle one, between the main diff gear and topshaft gear. Because the topshaft is metal and the idler's plastic, generally this gear wears out long in advance of the other two, so you can usually just replace the idler gear if you're tight on cash. It's only like two bucks or so.

When you reassemble - only just enough silicone grease in the ball diff holes to cover them, any more and it will sling out and make a mess inside the tranny.

[bizaare69]

K i got my parts and tightened my diff i have the manual and i was in the hobby shop today and the guy told me to come out sun and race hes got a brand new rc10gt he says they are the best he says and thats all he races for gas truck. he owns the hobby shop there and man his gt was sweet he had a novarossi engine in it man it was sick he is gonna blow me out of the water lol but hey its all fun around here.. so yea im gonna blow ass ive never ran on a track and i missed the practice date last week so ill see how it goes lol they sound like chill guys so im looking forward to it hopefully some fun :)

[Saboteur]

No, what happens is the clutch is almost always engaged. As long as you keep the idle speed correct, it won't burn anything up.

bizarre get out your manual man, you probably just need to tighten the diff or put new diff rings and balls in it. As for the breakage yeah you probably only need a new case, new I think they are only $12 or so.

Wow, interesting. Never knew bout that. Always good to learn another thing every day to add to the list :).

[rc3max]

I have a RC10Gt with a OS .12 CV-X w/pullstart. The engine is not on the truck. I traded a non pull start with someone and got screwed. I gave my mounts, air filter,clutch bell, and everything else that was attached to it. Can u guys give me an estimate of how much it will cost to have the OS .12 operable. I just have the engine and nothing else. Thanks in advance...

[Piggy89373]

Courtesy of Tower Hobbies:

Associated Clutch Assembly (Pullstart): $18.39
MIP 4-in-1 Clutch: $10.99
Associated Clutch bell: $7.69
Associated Ball Bearing Set 3/16x5/16" Flanged (2): $13.99
OS Super Air Cleaner 102: $13.49
Associated Pull Start Motor Mount: $7.99

Total: $72.54

You could piece meal the collet, flywheel, etc., but it comes out to about the same as the clutch assembly. The MIP 4-in-1 Clutch isn't a necessity, but it sure makes life easier. You could also buy Duratrax flanged bearings of the same size for much cheaper, but that's up to you. Another option is to look on the boards in the for sale section and see if someone would be willing to part that stuff out to you for a much cheaper price.

[rc3max]

will check the board. thanks.

[bizaare69]

Hey rocknbil

heres were your expetise comes into play i was out running my gt and i was checking to see if everything was going ok and at first when i pushed the throttle it had low acceleration so i figured that the diff was messed so i backed the screw off a bit and then i ran it same thing but then it stopped moving all together so then i tihgtened it up tight and backed it off a bit and ran it like that and well it was gripping good BUT! i was going down the street and i was pushing it wide open but sometimes it would cut out if i pushed it to much or w/o can i change that or is that normal so then after that i was maxing out and i went to turn around and it stopped moving and started opening wide open i ran like a mother ****** and when i got there the spur gear was off and the engine was ripping fast so i pinched the line and shut it off and the engine head was smoking but it smokes little bit all the time ive been trying to figure it out and at first i see theres a bit of fluid in the motor heatsink head and i thought it was that burning or am i running was to hot please help rockenbil caus ei cant race in this shape on sun.

THNX in advanced :)

[bizaare69]

bill i think im just gonna have to rebuild the diff i think thats my problem right now i wonder how much it is gonna cost me??? and help of a list of all need would be great thnx

[Piggy89373]

Well, I'm not Bill, but I'm good at looking at Tower and seeing prices:

Diff Rebuild Kit GT (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXH02&P=0): $8.59
Diff Gear GT (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3396&P=0): $2.39
Associated Stealth Diff Bearings (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LX2881&P=V): $11.99
Associated Carbid Diff Balls (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2874&P=M): $10.99
Associated Outdrive Right (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3399&P=M): $7.19
Associated Outdrive Left (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3400&P=M): $7.19

Or
Differential Assembly GT (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXH01&P=0):$34.99

[bizaare69]

everybody is good at something.....thnx alot greatly appreciated :D

[Piggy89373]

Biz, what was the problem you had earlier, did you resolve it? It sounded like an engine problem and now you want to know about rebuilding your diff?

Here's a couple of tips on knowing when you need to rebuild your diff: If your spur gear moves, but the tires don't, open up the trans and think about rebuilding the diff. If you hold the spur gear and spin one tire and it feels gritty when rotating, rebuild your diff. If you take apart your tranny and notice the diff balls are melted into the diff gear, it's definitely time to rebuild the diff. If your diff gear smells slightly burned, it's time to rebuild the diff.

When you rebuild your diff, clean out your tranny and bearings very very thoroughly using denatured alcohol, not rubbing alcohol. Clean it, then clean it again. Use the lubes you get from associated, and follow the directions exactly! Once done, hold the spur gear and rotate one tire. It should rotate very smoothly and not feel gritty at all. Most times, a good cleaning and maybe a replacement of the diff rings and thrust washers are all it takes, sometimes it requires a bit more. Don't be afraid of it, and always follow the instructions exactly.

[bizaare69]

UPDATE

I took my diff down to the hobby shop today and the guy cleaned out my diff and put more diff grease in it and i drove it and it was fine then after a bit of driving it was slipping again and i thought well maybe its my slipper clutch but after examining the diff started coming loose again so i tightned it up and again and it was tight and i was driving when all of a suddon i had a hell of a time slowing down so then i pick it up and my batts are dead so i have to waiut to charge then ill see whats going on

[Piggy89373]

Biz, something you might want to do is take a toothpick and put a very very very tiny tiny amount of loctite on it, and dab the threads of the diff t-nut. Now, when I say a very tiny amount, I mean you can barely see any on the threads. Reason you need so little is because once it's dried and set, you don't want to chance breaking off the ears of the t-nut to take the diff apart. Remember, use the blue loctite, not the red.

[offroadcrazy01]

Sounds as if you ran the diff to loss one or two times to many,and the diff balls are gone bad check out tech tip diff section www.rc-car.comYour diff does not make the gt run off first of all you need a thottle return spring.check your radio and thottle linkage stop and start points.oh I thought of something your battery's were going DEaD!!!!!!!!!!!,Try putting lock tight in the holes that lock the spur gear down it work for me,also if your engine turns off while wot your running to lean also your engines never needs to smoke check out the engine tuning tips on that site also good luck

[Tim'sLosi]

Biz, something you might want to do is take a toothpick and put a very very very tiny tiny amount of loctite on it, and dab the threads of the diff t-nut. Now, when I say a very tiny amount, I mean you can barely see any on the threads. Reason you need so little is because once it's dried and set, you don't want to chance breaking off the ears of the t-nut to take the diff apart. Remember, use the blue loctite, not the red.

The fix I saw for this was to slightly crimp the threads of the diff shaft with a pair of pliers so the nut goes on a little tight. More permanent than thread lock.

[Saboteur]

I know this isn't the place, but just asking, does anyone want an MT12 to go into their GT? Figured since the NT can't take SG cranks maybe someone with a GT would like to try it.

[Tim'sLosi]

Do you know what the Mugen MST-1 uses? I need an engine for one.

[Saboteur]

I'll try to find that out for ya. It seems to resemble the Losi so I'm guessing it only takes STD crank, but I could be wrong. Hold on a sec.

[Saboteur]

Yep, just as I thought...Standard :( Sry man. However it will fit in an RC10GT with TRX clutch assembly easily :).

[bizaare69]

ok guys biggest update here

well as u guys said i was running WAY to lean way to lean were talking here. and im getting a new nut thing or whatever. i was racing yesterday with the hobby shop owner he gave me some new tires for my rear cause the ones i had were horrible. and while i was racing my front left tire came off due to the threads stripping but this guys who owns the hobby shop is helping me out quite a bit hes a cool guy so yea thnx for all the help ill post with update when something changes thnx alot guys.

[rc10gtroller]

You are not supposed to but you Can put an SG shaft in a GT. All you need is a NTC3 clutch nut and some different clutch bearings and you can use the stock bell and flywheel. Now if you do this you have to cutoff the top part of the NTC3 clutch nut where the spring slot is for it to work. You will also have to do some dremel work to the clutch shoes to make them wrap around the new nut. Now since SG shafts have metric bearings needed for them it will be a tight fit getting them into the bell but it works. But you wont be able to get them back out without them exploding so consider it permanent if you dot have any more bearings. This works good and i have run my GT with the Team Orion wasp motor which has an SG shaft on it for awhile and have had no problems.

[J_Bone]

Where theres a will, there's a way!! lmao

[Tim'sLosi]

ok guys biggest update here

well as u guys said i was running WAY to lean way to lean were talking here. and im getting a new nut thing or whatever. i was racing yesterday with the hobby shop owner he gave me some new tires for my rear cause the ones i had were horrible. and while i was racing my front left tire came off due to the threads stripping but this guys who owns the hobby shop is helping me out quite a bit hes a cool guy so yea thnx for all the help ill post with update when something changes thnx alot guys.


The Jeopardy question..." What is a great reason to pay a dollar or two more and buy from your local hobby shop instead of online". :cool:

[bad viking]

Hi.
Does anyone here have any experience with the os 18cv-rx engine or the ones without the pullstart? I am planing on buying one, so can anyone tell me if they have anything to say about the engine? At my local track I was batteling hard with KANAI 2s and other 1/8 buggies (beating them from time to time!!), the only place I loosed ground was on the straights, so a faster engine sounded like a good idea.

The engine Im using now is a os 12cv-x, with a duratrax coolinghead, a assosiated 4 shoe lightweight flywheel, factory team tunepipe(FT truck) and I have done some dremmelwork on the exhaust port. So a max ouput is at 0,8hp I think and with 1,35hp it will kick their ass!!

Bad viking

[Piggy89373]

The drive train should handle the 18 with little problem, but might overpower just a bit. If you're already keeping up with and occasionally beating them, a .15 might be another choice. I have the .15 CVR-x in one of my GT's and it's almost too much for loose corners.

But, if you have the skills to beat some of the buggies, I'm sure you'll develop the skills to run the .18 and trounce them all.

[rocknbil]

... after a bit of driving it was slipping again ... after examining the diff started coming loose again so i tightned it up and again and it was tight ...

The diff bolt is on the passenger side of the transmission, correct? If it's on the driver's side, it will loosen itelf up.

[bizaare69]

Ok UPDATE i was at the track yesterday practicing and it appears i have some sort of glitch k when i go wide open it stays open a sec even when i let off the throttle and it stays up for a sec then comes back down and when i first started my radio up i could turn but it appears that my throttle was not moving and os moved it a bit and it started moving again. so i came home and switched in a new servo i had and it seemed alot stiffer and stronger so i was like cool but the glitching only happened whenthe engine was running except when it wouldnt more k so i switched in the new one and when i was testing it it stared doing a giggle and it wiggled lol both steering and throttle hopefully someone can help me i dont wanna get stuck wide open in a race you see....

[mlbz]

i recently purchased a reverse fill tank for my gt and the bag contained a small insert with instructions on how to install it into the bottom of the tank with a 4-40 screw. does anybody know what this is for or what benefit it carries???

[Piggy89373]

Bizaare, punctuation is your friend.

The glitching your experiencing could be from the usual suspects. First, make sure the batts are fine and charged. Next, check all the wiring for nicks, cuts, frays, etc. Tighten all metal to metal contacts. Also, keep your antenna wire from coming into contact with the chassis. Make sure all your connections into your receiver are clean and properly seated. Check your crystals. Make sure your batts in your transmitter are good and charged. Make sure your antenna in your transmitter is screwed in all the way and when in use, make sure the antenna is fully extended. If you're using an on-off switch, try bypassing it to see if the switch is going bad. There area multiple reasons for glitching, take some time and narrow it down to what it is not. After all this, if it's still glitching, try the tried and true method of switching receivers (if you don't have one, your lhs should be happy to help you in the event you need to buy one....from them.)

mlbz, the small insert in the tank is to ensure the tank only holds 75cc of fuel (conforming to race rules). If you're not going to race, you don't need that insert.

[Saboteur]

hmmm...Maybe for summer I may just pick up that GT in the window. :)

[bizaare69]

so guys i just picked up a used starter box for $40 canadian which is $32 american :)

[rocknbil]

Good score! But - you may need to rework it, at least the wiring. Read this article (http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/ht_starterbox.asp) and plan on an afternoon rewiring it. Then get yourself a 12V gel cell (also called an SLA, sealed lead acid) battery from any battery shop or recreational vehicle supply store for about $20. At either of those places or eBay you can fid what's called a float charger. These allow you to plug it in for a charge and just leave it without danger of overcharging.

If you ever get a non-pullstart engine, you'll need a non-pullstart engine mount and non-pullstart flywheel, these move the engine about 1/4" lower in the chassis.