Associated RC10GT Forum v8.0 [Archive] - Page 8

bizaare69

05-04-2005, 04:13 AM

bil i believe it is a lead acid cell battery i dont know if thats the same.... but i was in my bros garage and i found this battery charger it has modes for 6 volts and 12 volts at 1 amp it seems very old loli wonder if it has an auto shutoff it says automatic circuit breaker on it copuld that mean auto cut off???/ lol i think this hting may blow up or be dangerous lol...... its called a power house made by woodward schumacher electric corp ill post a pic here for ya.http://img115.echo.cx/img115/7032/17ce.jpg

doesgo

05-04-2005, 06:12 AM

I know it's not recommended, but I've been using my peak-sensing (auto shut-off) automotive battery charger on the 2-amp setting to charge my lead-acid gel cell for 2.5 years now and it's always worked great. I'd never suggest anyone go against the manufacturer's recommendations, of course... :)

rocknbil

05-04-2005, 12:45 PM

^^^ Thx doesego, I got it on recommendation from the guys at Batteries Plus (all types of batteries, mostly auto) that 1700mah was the top, and he told me "well you could try it but it might burn it up . . . " So it's good to know these will handle 2 amps.

bizarre I can barely make out 1 AMP on the pic, and that's what you said, so that should work fine, 1 amp = 1000 mah. But you'll have to get some advice on charge time and how often you need to charge it. That's the beauty of a float charger, it varies the voltage based on the charge state of the cell.

Yes, SLA (sealed lead acid) and gel cell are the same thing, and that automatic circuit breaker is like a fuse, not auto-peaking. For example, if a charger is designed for 6 cells and you try to charge a 4-cell pack on it it will be too much draw and blow the breaker instead of melting down. Use the 12 charge rate.

bizaare69

05-05-2005, 01:49 AM

hmmmmm i had a guy on here request some stuff for me here ill post it k

HE SAYS

Pics are too too fuzzy to read the details.

I bet it has no cutoff. The 1amp 12v for autos was generally considered a trickle charge and trickle is continuous - doesn't turn off until you unplug it. Don't see why you can't use it to charge your lead acid cell though.

If you have a voltmeter (decent one) check the voltage before you start. I'd charge it overnight and re-check the voltage (charger unplugged). Manual I got with my new motorcycle batt says 100% charge for a new batt is 12.8-13.0v. Obviously if your batt is older, the voltage may be a little lower. One other thing - they advised checking voltage again 30min after disconnecting batt when voltage is stable.

If its still low, I'd charge it some more - manual says may take 20hr if fully discharged.

.................................................. .......................................

think thats a good recommendation???

rocknbil

05-05-2005, 12:44 PM

Mostly correct, no "cutoff" (by cutoff I mean auto-peaking.) At that rate, his charging numbers are probably pretty close to it.

bizaare69

05-09-2005, 04:07 PM

k i also have a motomaster battery charger that charges at 2 amps which shall i go with i dont know if the moto master has an auto peak or anything i donno ill post a pic k
http://img240.echo.cx/img240/21/pict00052ds.jpg

TJNMT

05-11-2005, 10:43 PM

I recently bought a FT GT. it has the B4 axle spacers. But for up front, I read somewhere that you can make it wider with Losi axles, I beileve.. But can anybody shed some light on this along with part numbers.

Thanks a bunch

Piggy89373

05-12-2005, 02:59 PM

TJ, save yourself the trouble of finding Losi parts, just go here for your front widening kit. (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/gt-widening.htm)

TJNMT

05-12-2005, 03:05 PM

Thanks for the link.

sdillon

05-16-2005, 03:00 PM

Quick engine question, can you use a SG shaft on a RC10GT?

J_Bone

05-16-2005, 04:46 PM

TJ, save yourself the trouble of finding Losi parts, just go here for your front widening kit. (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/gt-widening.htm)
I did that T4 wide kit to my GT. Man, it rocks!!! Huge difference.

Piggy89373

05-17-2005, 12:21 PM

J Bone, I noticed the biggest difference in wash board sections of a track, much more stable.

Sdillon, I believe you can, but the mod for this is using an NTC clutch nut. I'm not 100% positive, but I'm pretty certain you can.

TJ, while shopping at Dave's, take a look at his brake and his clutch nut. The brake is a great investment, in fact, right up there just behind getting the 4-n-1 clutch. The clutch nut is another good investment to save you the hassle of dealing with the E-clip.

J_Bone

05-17-2005, 01:08 PM

It's much more stable and is better on the high speed sections of my track. I like a lot.

Dave's brake kit looks sweet, but $32 is a bit pricey just to drop on a brake setup. Mine seems to work ok..........darn it, I just hexed myself... :eek:

Piggy89373

05-17-2005, 04:19 PM

Not to sound like a salesman, but....for $32 it's worth it if you're racing. Even if you're just bashing around, it's great. If needed, I can lock up my rear tires and slide...not that you'd ever need to. It'll give you much more breaking response, power, and sensitivity.

powerstroke01

05-20-2005, 03:12 PM

Hey guys. Just wanted to let yall know about my motor for sale.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=196846

slow one 2

05-21-2005, 06:39 AM

I decided I wanted to see for myself how much faster a ntc3 was so I picked up a ntc3 and put an mt12 in it. I went to the park a yesterday and raced my son against his gt with an os cv12(with a crazy nut head). I'm not sure if I just haven't broken the engine in enough or not but I had a very hard time pulling away from his gt.

anyway my son put his gt into the curb just about full throttle, sideways-the damage; bent cv bone in half(two places) bottom shock end broke, both rear body mounts ripped out, out drive on transmission broke in half, and gpm rear bulkhead twisted and skrews broke in so I can't get them out. needless to say my son is very proud of himself(both for keeping up with me and for all the broken parts) and has no respect at all for my ntc3. :D

I have searched for a replacement aluminum rear bulkhead with no luck. Is the rpm bulkhead very much stronger than the stock one as my son rips the screws out of the stock or does anyone know where to get an aluminum one pleeeeeeeeease.

hotrodpablo

05-21-2005, 10:31 AM

TJNMT

05-21-2005, 11:58 AM

Stay away from that alu. stuff. Go with the RPM rear bulkhead and run 2 screws and nuts and you will be fine.

hotrodpablo

05-21-2005, 05:00 PM

the alluminum or the RPM is bound to break at almost full throtle into a curb sideways. The RPM is cheaper to replace at about $10 each.

slow one 2

05-22-2005, 04:04 AM

hotrodpablo; thanks for the links.

I have not tried the rpm bulkhead, but have had great luck(knock on wood) with the gpm ones, and they look good. My son loves to jump and also loves the walls when we race so he seems to rip out the screws with the stock ones. Never a problem with the gpm ones. like you said, "the alluminum or the RPM is bound to break at almost full throtle into a curb sideways." and well he hated to let an on-road car beat him. :D

sdillon

05-23-2005, 09:21 AM

Question:
I keep stripping stock Spur gears. Motor and tranny isnt moving around so I can only guess the Plastic gears are the problem. How do the Nylon and Metal gear options do or is it something I am not seeing?

TJNMT

05-23-2005, 11:43 AM

The only way that spur will strip, if chassis flex from jumping, spur/pinon alignment, slipper too tight.
And in that order. There is no need to get the alu spur gears, just a waste of your money.

slow one 2

05-24-2005, 12:35 AM

sdillon; I went through the spur gear issues with both my son and my trucks for along time. how are your bearings in the clutchbell. how old is your clutch nut. you may be getting some play there causing you to strip your spur gear. I hate to say it (cause I luv my associated) but I finally went with the traxas clutchbell set up and I've got a couple gallons on each truck with no more spur gear issues.

you also need to have a good after market tranny brace cause even though it doesn't look like anything is moving it is when you come down form a big jump.

Diesel72

05-25-2005, 03:47 AM

Hey there fellas, just little ol' me...anyways, here's my gt, built it up a couple of years ago, and have been slowly perfecting it
http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL856/934350/1718893/97942928.jpg

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL856/934350/1718893/97758962.jpg

.21 RC10gt

New Era twin plane chassis
H-G front and rear shock towers
Racers Edge front and rear bumpers
RPM everything
Ofna Ultra shocks Front and rear
New Era 1/8th scale wheel adaptors
1/8 scale buggy foam tires
Hyper 8 port .21 pullstart engine
Geared to the moon!
22t clutchbell 60t spur

Piggy89373

05-25-2005, 07:35 AM

Dude, that's a beast!!! Ever have any problems turning to the left, losing your deflector and filling your exhaust tip with dirt?

Diesel72

05-25-2005, 11:58 PM

Dude, that's a beast!!! Ever have any problems turning to the left, losing your deflector and filling your exhaust tip with dirt?

Nope!!! This gt is on road only. Plus, those foam tires don't have the problem of ballooning up and catching tight clearance parts.

slaf

05-30-2005, 09:49 AM

I want to race in a parking lot with other guys. They have all nitro touring cars but I'm not sure that I'll like parking lot racing. So I think that I should try parking lot racing with my RC10GT, just to see how it performs.

Do you have any base guidelines to set my GT into a "good" parking lot racer.

I already have Proline on road tires, I'll lower the suspension, put heavier shock oil (how heavy ??), stiffer shock springs (how stiff ??)

mdracer

05-31-2005, 09:29 AM

hey guys, quick question, i have a superbrain 969 charger and i want to charge the gel cell in my gt's starter box, will this charger do that?

mdracer

05-31-2005, 09:30 AM

actually ill post this on the main forum

J_Bone

05-31-2005, 04:50 PM

hey guys, quick question, i have a superbrain 969 charger and i want to charge the gel cell in my gt's starter box, will this charger do that?

I have the same charger and it doesn't charge them.

Piggy89373

05-31-2005, 06:24 PM

Slaf, your best bet is to PM Toyotatogo and find out how he's running his suspension. Since he's running in and around the 70 mph mark, he's obviously fine tuned his suspension for on-road handling. I'm sure he'd be willing to help out and give you some ideas.

mlbz

06-10-2005, 03:01 PM

http://img1.IMGSatellite.com/u/05/160/20/losikiller.JPG
losi killer!!! adam drake has nothin on me!!!!

Piggy89373

06-10-2005, 03:41 PM

What the heck is the shiny piece coming off the tranny in the far right pic, middle row?

mlbz

06-10-2005, 04:02 PM

What the heck is the shiny piece coming off the tranny in the far right pic, middle row?

Thata an a-main racing zero flex chassis to start....and the shinny piece is a custom reinforced y-brace that when combined with the engine mounting system eliminates all flex in the rear of the chassis. The stock a-main chassis all though still a good chassis had a very thin...and weak brace so i machined up that one to approx. twice the thickness and replaced the plastic upper deck posts with aluminum posts.. the rear carriers are also custom machined to 4.5 degrees rear toe in and the hinge pin location is pushed futher out and back to both widen and lengthen the chassis. the front susp. has the t3 front spindles and uprights with longer axels.. the tranny brace is from titan tech..( thats who made those before trinity bought them out.) it has an rpm rear bulkhead and carbon fiber shock towers..lunsfords, ti shock shafts with blue seals,and a modified os .12 cv..I perfected this setup at the world famous ranch pit shop which unfourtunatly closed down before i could reap the benefits. its been packed away since then. After arguing with a buddy who recently went losi and bragged bout how great the AD xxx-nt was i had to put it back on the track. blue grove or not this truck shows nothing but tail end to all those Adam Drake's out there. and to boot its the most durable truck i've built thus far. i cant remember when the last time was that i replaced a part for any other reason than its hinge pin holes were worn or it was showing its age.

Turboduck

06-10-2005, 07:56 PM

J_Bone

06-11-2005, 09:45 AM

Hi guys, i have a question, is the clutch nut suppose to go up against the collet (the cylindrical copper looking cone) in order to keep it from moving on the crankshaft? I'm curious because i've had to cut down the threads on the shaft and i dont want to cut too much... but i want to cut enough :D
This is for the OS CV-R .18
If it was brand new, then there is usually a grey drive hub and then a nut. Tighten the nut up and that is where you are suppose to cut the crank. My manual shows a decription of it. It's better to cut "not enough" then too much!
The collect will not move when you put the fly wheel on it and tighten it down.

rocknbil

06-11-2005, 01:46 PM

Thata an a-main racing zero flex chassis to start.....

mlbz - that is an awesome project! :D Not to spam but if you have time and are interested in a place where you can post pics and describe how you built it, you're welcome to sign up for my site and I'll get you article access, that would be an awesome addition.
http://www.rc-resources.com

is the clutch nut suppose to go up against the collet (the cylindrical copper looking cone) in order to keep it from moving on the crankshaft?

Collet first, chased by flywheel, then a hardened steel washer (don't use a pot metal one,) then clutch nut. If the flywheel's still too loose, you can try putting a hardened steel washer behind the collet, but more often than not you'll need to replace the flywheel - the collet often stretches it so it won't hold any more.

Of course, before you make all these changes, make sure the threads have been trimmed enough, as J_Bone said. There used to be a "special nut" that came with the kits (which I can't find ANYWHERE) that you just put on the shaft and cut off the excess for a perfect fit.

rc10er

06-12-2005, 01:37 PM

x-tee-ha did you get that motor put in

Turboduck

06-12-2005, 09:50 PM

sounds good. This weekend i raced my old tub version GT and os CV 12 engine... lol stock weak servo... still a lot of fun, cant wait for the next race with my factory team gt and all the goodies :)

RC-10 GT racer

06-16-2005, 12:06 AM

lol, i have 2 old model tub chassis also, along with a new rtr im rebuildin from the ground up, GOD I LOVE MY GT's!

RC-10 GT racer

06-16-2005, 12:07 AM

and another thing, ive been runnin nothin but the RC-10 gt since 1998! started with 2 factory team kits back then.

J_Bone

06-16-2005, 12:27 AM

Me too, I just replaced my black tub chassis with a factory team one and I did the T4 wide mod.
It went from this:
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/RC10GT/old_GT.jpg

To this:
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/RC10GT/GT_1.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/RC10GT/GT_2.jpg

Engine rebuild:
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/RC10GT/enginerebuild.jpg

This is the body that came with it. I'll just thrash it and get a new one.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/RC10GT/GT_3.jpg

Then I got the new Modded OS cv-r installed and the new tank. I was going to install the RPM RX box, but it's too big. My RX will fit inside the bottom half and close up no problem. I need to modify it or find a lid that doesn't raise up so high.

http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/RC10GT/GT_os.jpg

I also smoothed out the header for better flow.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/RC10GT/GT_header.jpg

I installed the RPM box and it is sweet!! and the engine screams!!

RC-10 GT racer

06-16-2005, 12:30 AM

wow, thats sweet lookin. and i love my tub chassis, but i like the flat chassis better. it is so easy to clean after a hard day at the track that its amazing!

RC-10 GT racer

06-16-2005, 12:30 AM

btw, sweet engine, wat did u have in there before tho?

rocknbil

06-16-2005, 12:46 AM

lol, i have 2 old model tub chassis also, along with a new rtr im rebuildin from the ground up, GOD I LOVE MY GT's!

Welcome aboard RC! :D Hey if you're running the tub - look at the two blue items in this pic. The most important one is the bar - it goes from the front engine mount, up and over the carb, and attaches to the rear tranny mount. Between that and the trinity engine mount, you can completely eliminate the chassis flex that eats up old-style spurs on jumps.

J Bone - they look so purty before their first run . . . :D Browse through this thread for the posts on the Ofna throttle linkage - you'll like it way better than that aluminum pill thingy AE has going on there . . .

J_Bone

06-16-2005, 12:52 AM

btw, sweet engine, wat did u have in there before tho?
I had a Dynamite .12spd in it. It was a dog though.

rocknbil,
Nice!! I was considering building anther one with the old tub chassis. maybe make it a oval racer or something, not sure.

RC-10 GT racer

06-16-2005, 12:55 AM

make it a back yard basher, the tubs are great for that stuff!

J_Bone

06-16-2005, 01:26 AM

not a bad idea!!

RC-10 GT racer

06-16-2005, 01:44 AM

to bad i cant post pics....the site wont let me upload them....

RC-10 GT racer

06-17-2005, 12:42 AM

btw dieasel72, nice GT u have, but dont you miss the old dirt running days?

J_Bone

06-17-2005, 08:32 AM

to bad i cant post pics....the site wont let me upload them....
I can post them up for you, but Your DSL needs to not crash long enough for you to send them to me...lol

RC-10 GT racer

06-17-2005, 02:11 PM

lol, ok, but u need to be online in order for me to send em!

J_Bone

06-18-2005, 12:19 AM

True, but you can e-mail them to my msn account.
I had to work 12 hours today, I guess it made up for the 3 hours the day before.

RC-10 GT racer

06-18-2005, 02:18 AM

lol, 3 hour shift, then a 12 hour shift? messed up.....

J_Bone

06-18-2005, 08:25 AM

Well I don't work in shifts. I do field service work. So I go and do a certain job. Sometimes it takes 3 hours or how ever long it takes to get the job done. I take care of the West coast so I have to travel to Washington, Oregon, California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, Texas and so on. So I can travel and be gone all week.

consistent

06-28-2005, 10:58 AM

I have had my GT since 1996 and nothing on it is stock except for the shocks,shock struts, and tranny. I was looking at the pics in page 72 and noticed that the flat blue chassis has the fuel tank reversed and a lot of the new things on the chassis are things that have been out for a while but were after market options. I reversed my fuel tank back in 1997 and I wanted to know if the knew chassis comes like that from the factory or do we still have to do that ourselves. I also wanted to know if anyone has put the Losi quick change rear hubs on the GT yet and if so what modifications were needed.

Scarab RC

06-28-2005, 03:06 PM

Is the RC10GT still viable against the new Losi AD2? The RC10GT is old and so I'm not really inclined to buy one, even if it is about $100 cheaper, because (hopefully) Associated will be coming out with a new RC10GT soon. What do you guys think? I'm just looking for opinions.

Scarab

rocknbil

06-28-2005, 03:50 PM

Personally all I can say is there is a **REASON** that, outside of the chassis, the design and geometry of the GT hasn't changed in almost ten years. It works.

J_Bone

06-28-2005, 05:43 PM

Personally all I can say is there is a **REASON** that, outside of the chassis, the design and geometry of the GT hasn't changed in almost ten years. It works.
Yup! I second that. It's still winning races.

Ed237

06-28-2005, 11:06 PM

I race at a club level. Some of the guys I race against bought AD2s. Everything on the AD2 seemed so trick and it seemed so light. I thought I would have to get an AD2 just to keep up. I am glad to report that I was wrong! I can still compete with them.

I think the RC10GT is like the 57 Chevy. Its one of the greatest all time RC designs - ever - and its still going strong.

Even if AE comes out with a new GT right now, it will still take another 6 months or a year for the Factory Team edition to follow.

slaf

06-29-2005, 09:35 PM

I still beleive that the new RC10GT will share the same suspension, steering geometry, bellcrank as the T4 and it'll be a little bit larger. And if AE are wise, they will (like Losi did) put quick change axle for the rear wheels.

J_Bone

06-29-2005, 10:28 PM

I agree. I already put the T4 wide mod on my GT and it makes it even better!!

Scarab RC

06-30-2005, 03:52 PM

Isn't the T4 a new suspension design all the way around from the RC10GT (i.e. shocks behind the shock tower, etc.)? Are there any similarities between the T4 and the GT's suspension at all?

Scarab

J_Bone

06-30-2005, 06:24 PM

Well I just got the info on the new GT....I would wait. It will be worth it!!!!! It's not the same as the FT truck now.

Ed237

07-02-2005, 10:56 AM

J Bone, feel free to share any details you can about the upcoming GT (like what the key upgrades are and the release date)!

Please?

jnegrx

07-03-2005, 11:32 AM

I'm with J Bone: Wait until the new GT comes up sooooooooon.

And yes the GT can hang with the AD2, What truck has won the last 10 ROAR Gas Nationals, the GT enough said.

J_Bone

07-03-2005, 05:38 PM

I’m not at liberty to give full details…sorry.
But it's gonna be sweet.

mattiemisfit

07-05-2005, 01:18 AM

WHAT :eek: ?!?!? Oh man.....I just bought a FTGT and they are commin out with new one?!?!? *sigh* :confused:

Ed237

07-05-2005, 08:42 PM

J_Bone

07-05-2005, 09:20 PM

I bought a TC4 last November. Its a good car, but its really not any better than a Factory Team TC3. It took AE almost 10 months to introduce the Factory Team TC4.

If they follow the same release dates, your current Factory Team GTs should be competitive for at least another year.

Well the current GT is about a 10-12 year old design that still is competitive. I've done a T4 mod to the front and rear and it's even more stable than before. And it's not compareable to the FT TC3-TC4 debate!

jnegrx

07-05-2005, 09:43 PM

J_Bone

07-05-2005, 10:34 PM

I did the same mod with the T3 front end and it improved, I have tried the T4 mod front and rear and it really is easier to drive but I had to use graphite cord to reinforce the right rear because of the spur. Jbone what did you do to take care of this problem.

I’m not sure what you are talking about? Are you talking about chassis flex?
There are a few after market plates that can be used. I’m still using the stock one. I'm running the FT chassis with non-pull start engine mount. The non-pull start engine mount helps in strengthening the rear of the chassis as well.

mattiemisfit

07-06-2005, 01:06 AM

Could anyone give me the specifics of the T4 mod on the GT? I'm not sure if it's in this thread earlier, if it is, a link would be greatly appreaciated. Pics would be nice, too :D

Piggy89373

07-06-2005, 08:29 AM

Matt, just go here for your stuff (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/index2.htm). Dave has taken all the guess work out of it and sells them as a kit for a decent price. If you get confused or have questions, give them a call. Their customer service is second to none.

J_Bone

07-06-2005, 05:32 PM

YUP!...like piggy said

mattiemisfit

07-06-2005, 07:57 PM

Hey thanks a lot! That really helped.

Deadmeat

07-06-2005, 08:46 PM

I just received the GT widening kit but for some reason the steering block arms are hitting the wheels. I know I am missing something stupid because I have not seen anyone else with this problem. The first thing I thought was I put them on backwards but I check the pictures at www.rc10gthobby.com and they look identical to what I have setup. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Cameron

Piggy89373

07-06-2005, 09:29 PM

That's a tough one. Without seeing it, it's tough to tell you what's wrong. Not to refer you to a different forum, but did you check the forum associated with Dave's site to see if anyone else had the same problem? As a last resort, call up Dave and ask him. His crew has the best customer service I've ever come across. Also, take a look at Myst Racing (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/mystracing/RC10gt.htm) for a bit more in-depth description.

jnegrx

07-06-2005, 11:53 PM

Deadmeat

07-07-2005, 08:28 AM

Piggy,

Yea, I have read through that thread on his forum but I didn't see anything. I will try to get a picture tonight and post it.

Piggy89373

07-07-2005, 12:55 PM

Not to keep bring this up, but why not call up Bayside Hobbies and see what Dave has to say? Here's his number: 1-727- 522-1769.

Deadmeat

07-07-2005, 06:45 PM

Piggy,

I just got off the phone with Dave. GREAT GUY! He was extremely nice and helpful. I have the older TEAM kit (not factory team) and the wheels with that kit are a little different, kind of a "flat" dish.

Cameron

J_Bone

07-07-2005, 06:56 PM

J Bone: I'm talking about using the hole suspension of the T4 in front(arms, shock tower, steering block, etc.). In the rear I'm using T4 axels but I have tried to use the hole suspension like the front. The only thing is the mod I have to do on the right rear arm is time consuming. If I get the chance I will take a picture to show you what I mean. As far as chassis flex I have a Trinity brace that helps. The T3 mod I made was swapping the front of the GT cutting the chassis and putting the front end of the T3. With the T4 it's all around suspension swap.

Oh wow.. I only added the hub's, steering blocks and axels which set it to T4 width. Im still usung stock GT A-arms. The rear was real east, it's basically just he B4 rear axe and knucklesl which is longer than the GT. That's it.
I see what you are doing, as far as using the T4 rear arms and all. I didn't go that far into modding that..lol..
Good luck asn take some pictures!!! I want to check it out.

I use T4 rims too. Seems to work great since I have a T4 too and I can just swap them.

Piggy89373

07-08-2005, 11:23 AM

Dead, glad it worked out for you. Dave is a great guy and has forgotten more about the GT than most of us ever learned. So, what did he sell you? :D :D

offroadcrazy01

07-08-2005, 01:51 PM

Have you guys tryed the 2 stage pro-line tire foams ,and if so do they make a diffrence,also have you guys tryed any other combo of tire foams and how did they work for you

mattiemisfit

07-08-2005, 04:56 PM

I have a quick question about non-pull start engines, what is the best way to prime the carb? I've never owned a non-pull start until I got my GT. Thanks.

Delfairen

07-08-2005, 06:42 PM

I could be wrong but I would off thought you could do the same on a starter box as a pull start/drill start just cover the stinger with your finger until the fuel is up to the carb. Either that or flip the lid on the fuel tank a few times with the throttle wide open.

jnegrx

07-08-2005, 11:55 PM

Yes cover the pipe stinger and that should prime the carb. Be carefull not to over do it or you will flood the engine and it won't start. A flooded engine can even damage some parts.

I use two stage foam on my GT's and it works great. But most of the time the stock foam will work ok. The only thing is to try it and see if it works for you.

J_Bone

07-09-2005, 08:11 AM

Offraodcrazy01,
I've used two stage foams and they worked good on the front for me. I didn't like them on the rear. I use standard Pro line foam for the rear.

mattiemisfit,
When I set mine the starter box, I just push it down and it primes it's self. If you have a hard time priming on a starter box, you can plug the end of the pipe till fuel reaches the carb.

offroadcrazy01

07-09-2005, 12:29 PM

Do any of you guys race your gt and if so where .I race at hotrods hobbies in socal thxs for your input on the foams I guess I will have to try a few diffrent set ups to see how they work at my local track

J_Bone

07-09-2005, 12:37 PM

I race at Hobby Action here in Tempe,AZ and Scottsdale Raceway (SRS & home of Cactus classic). We get a lot of guys coming from SoCal to race here.

offroadcrazy01

07-10-2005, 01:11 PM

How long you been racing Jay. I raced sportman for a year in a half now I'm going to try expert these guy are good hope I can hang .Marty Korn races her some guys beat him once in a while seems like he's making every body here better or they just give up the hobby how old are you I'm 29 www.hotrodhobbies.com

J_Bone

07-10-2005, 03:56 PM

My first race was in 83. I had a Tamiya Hot SHot. But wasnt' too serious. I totally quit RC while I raced BMX and MX. Then aobut 4 years ago, my riding buddy was sponcered by AE and showed me his GT and Kyosho buggy. Come to find out he had a bunch of sponcers for RC and MX.
SO now I've ben bashing for 4 years and racing only 2. But I like to see the faces ,of the guys who race more than I do, when I beat them. I'm 33 with a family, so I don't get to race as much as I like. But it helps to know a few guys in the Industry..:p

Hotrodhobbies is a great track from what I heard.

offroadcrazy01

07-10-2005, 08:13 PM

nice to meet you jay keep in touch I'll be around I'm going to get a camera so I can post some of my race pictures come around and check them out

mattiemisfit

07-12-2005, 05:36 PM

Im really interested to see what AE is going to do to the GT. Anybody have any info or when AE might release something about it?

davetexas22

07-20-2005, 06:41 PM

I was thinking about getting an nitro stadium truck for racing but not sure which to get, Losi, AE, Traxxas. Any suggestions?

slaf

07-20-2005, 08:58 PM

It's now time for me to get a new engine....

Does anybody run OS .18CVR...Is this too much for the truck ? I can't decide between OS .12 CVR or a OS .18CVR.

.12TZ seems to be interesting but a little bit too expensive...

doesgo

07-20-2005, 11:41 PM

The .18CV-R might be tough to control for racing (and illegal for ROAR tracks), but it's great for bashing, especially considering the price!

doesgo

07-20-2005, 11:42 PM

davetexas22, just look at what's winning races all over the country. It's pretty much Losi XXX-NT or the Associated RC10GT. You can't go wrong with either one, they're both great trucks. Get whichever one is easier to get parts for.

ritchies rc10gt

07-20-2005, 11:54 PM

hey guys.been a while since ive been here.

i know this has been covered but how do i get an SG shaft engine in this truck?i have a fantom .15 in it now but i have a nice sirio for it but it an SG shaft not threaded.i have the trinity rear exhaust header for it so the exhaust wont be a problem.thanx guys

RC-10 GT racer

08-02-2005, 01:44 AM

well, i blew my stock engine at the track, and wat ticked me off is that the only reason i blew it is because the jumps are so big, a 1/10th 2 WD truck cant handle it! i fliped and lost radio, but the 30,000 rpm the engine was signin before it blew sounded beutiful... : )

Anyways, i just bought a O.S. .18 TZ, so the jumps wont be a problem now. But slowing down to turn might....

Delfairen

08-02-2005, 04:50 PM

A fail-safe and a throttle return spring and the engine would still be fine. I can't see how the bigger engine would stop you landing on your lid but maybe its just me.

RC-10 GT racer

08-02-2005, 08:40 PM

huh? i meant it as a joke, besides, the brakes work just fine. plenty of stopin power there, il be ok, as long as i dont screw up...

slaf

08-02-2005, 10:58 PM

RC-10 GT racer

08-05-2005, 03:04 PM

think of it this way, if it was to much power, why would os make a SS model of the engine just for the rc-10 gt???

1 more thing, can u really ever have enoguh power? : )

slaf

08-08-2005, 09:13 AM

OS makes a short shaft model for those who like big HP and don't care about control.

And YES you can have too much power. OS .18TZ has been dynoed at 2.28HP.....This is too much power for any nitro stadium trucks.

You can install a .18 TZ in your GT, but you'll blow diff, spur and rear tires but your front tires will still like new cause most of the time your GT will be on the rear wheels doing wheelies.

OS TZ and TM are most suitable for 4wd cars and trucks....

If you want more mph, go with an engine that revs more and has less HPs.

I still running my stock TTR 15 engine and when I'll replace it, I'll go with OS .12CVR or a .12 RB engine....

RC-10 GT racer

08-11-2005, 03:58 PM

dude, no offense, but u can NEVER have to much power, and ive been running my GT with the tz and it drives better then it ever did with the stock! the only thing i may even have to consider the possibility of doin is gearin up, thats pretty much it, im not on "2 wheels" when im drivin, im on all 4, and it was dynoed at about 2.5 hp BTW

nitrohouse

08-11-2005, 07:41 PM

It can go both ways. On slipery surfaces, high horsepower engines can be a handful and almost no fun(spinning around in circles is only fun for a second or two)...On high traction surfaces you can take a little more advantage of the power, but then you have to back off the slipper a bunch or its flip over time when you hit the throttle...And then to top it off more power means more wear and tear to the diff...So there are pros and cons on this subject, and ultimately what matters is if you are smiling when you are running then that is all that matters...

Not that it matters, but I saw the .18 tz at 2.28 Hp (rc car action), and that is the highest I have seen it...

Have Fun...Burn Nitro...

Piggy89373

08-12-2005, 03:12 PM

ultimately what matters is if you are smiling when you are running
That's the ultimate test for any RC!! Personally, I have more than enough fun with my CV-R .12 and didn't see a need to drop a couple of dollars more for a ballistic missle.

slaf

08-12-2005, 03:22 PM

I'm looking for a .12CVR myself...

J_Bone

08-12-2005, 04:12 PM

I like my OS .12 cv-r. I lucked out. A local racer had it modded by RB mods and he never ran it. SO he sold it to me for $75 since he only runs 1/8 scale now. :p
I'm gonna cry the day it I have to replace it.

XXXNTMAN

08-12-2005, 06:57 PM

I have a question. Has this ever happened to you. Alright I was driving my gt today. (I just got it a few days ago and love it.) But I was going full throttle and hit my ramp that I had set up. It launched a good 15 feet but I hit the brakes to hard and it started front flipping and then It started revving really high but didn't go anywhere. So I ran over to my car and the engine was sitting next to the car. What had happened was the screws that go into the engine had broke and then it flew off and opened the carp all the way but didn't move anywhere because the engine wasn't near the gear. Have any of you ever had something like this where your screws break. Just curious.

doesgo

08-12-2005, 10:33 PM

I ran a .12CV-R for quite a while and LOVED IT! What a great all-around engine. Good power, holds a tune like a dream, reliable as can be, and lasts forever! Can't go wrong there.

Holy cow, XXXNTMAN! I've broken some screws before, but that's brutal! Never heard of that happening before. We've got high-strength, hex-drive, button-head screws on hand to replace your stock engine-mounting screws if you're interested, $1.25 for a 10-pack. We've also got an entire RC10GT high-strength, 140-piece hardware kit in the Store for $12.99 if you'd rather go that route. http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_27&products_id=144

slaf

08-12-2005, 10:46 PM

Doesgo -> Which .12CV-R version did you install ??? I want to replace my TTR 15 with a .12 CVR but I can't decide between the sg shaft or the threaded shaft version....

J_Bone

08-13-2005, 12:21 AM

XXXNTMAN,
Holy cow man!!! That's brutal! I've never came across any thing like that.

slaf,
I have the threaded shaft. All it needs is to be cut at the nut.

doesgo

08-13-2005, 11:55 AM

I used the threaded crank CV-R and cut the end off to get it into my GT. Worked great. Did the same with a .15CV-R with similar results.

offroadcrazy01

08-15-2005, 05:28 PM

xxx-nt two things might have happen one you did'nt use the right srews or you did'nt use lock tight.There are sixs screws on the bottom and four on the top you must lock tight all of them.Also the screws on the bottom I always keep new once they strip you be looking for the drill-moe it could be a long day good luck

doesgo

08-15-2005, 09:02 PM

XXXNTMAN

08-16-2005, 10:36 AM

Does anybody know the part number for a pull start engine mount. My car didn't come with a manual and the screws are stuck in there good.

doesgo

08-16-2005, 11:39 AM

It's #7771. You can get it here for $6.99: http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=191

Or from Tower for $7.99: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=7771&FVPROFIL=++

FreeRideJunkie

08-17-2005, 01:41 AM

I just bought a RC10GT off of my buddy and it has one downfall... it has the older hub setup and larger axles. It also has the short 1/4" pins that seem to be eating up rear wheels like crazy. Not to mention I need to modify losi wheels because associated doesn't make the right ones any more. Now my question was what parts (hubs, axles, bearings, etc.) will I need to get the rear end on this thing up to date. I want to be able to use current wheels. I don't have a problem with the front but wouldn't mind changing that as well. If you could leave links to the right parts that would be great. Thanks a bunch. (And this thing hauls with my OS .18 CV-R in it. :-) )

Piggy89373

08-17-2005, 04:39 AM

Freeride, you could go to tower hobbies and get the 3/16" axles from them. Another option is to go to Baysidehobby.com and pick up the conversion kit to use longer axles for the rear. These will eliminate most of the problems of your wheel hitting the hub, not to mention adding a bit more rear stability. Since you're rummaging through baysidehobby.com, take a look at some of the other stuff Dave makes. The CR brake is great as well as the widening kit.

FreeRideJunkie

08-18-2005, 02:02 AM

Sorry, but the RC10GT hardware kit mentioned above has a new location, it's now at http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=58

Just didn't want to send anyone to the wrong spot.

I'll thank you as well. I have quite a few stripped out heads on the screws on my GT and was looking for a set to change just about everything. How complete is that $12 one? Plus you gave the link to the PS motor mount I need. The LHS sold me some 2 piece one for the newer RTR kit I think and told me it would work... I knew better and still bought it. I'm a sucker. (but it's going back. :D

doesgo

08-18-2005, 10:24 AM

I'll thank you as well. I have quite a few stripped out heads on the screws on my GT and was looking for a set to change just about everything. How complete is that $12 one? Plus you gave the link to the PS motor mount I need. The LHS sold me some 2 piece one for the newer RTR kit I think and told me it would work... I knew better and still bought it. I'm a sucker. (but it's going back. :D

The set is completely complete! :) It's got replacements for every single fastener we could find as we went through the instruction manual. There are minor differences between the RTR and Factory Team versions and when that happens, we include hardware for both, and there are a few extra pieces, too.

We just sold our last RTR engine mount yesterday though, so we're out of stock on that. All we've got in stock is the non-pull version, but we should have more PS versions in a week or so.

As for upgrading to 3/16" axles, doing the T4 conversion is a nice idea as mentioned by Piggy above. A simple alternative which would improve your truck's efficiency would be to step up to 3/16" MIP CVDs. I don't want to turn this entire post into a sales pitch (too late?), so shoot me an e-mail at doesgo@slapmafro.com or send me a PM and I can set you up.

Any new info on when the new RC10GT will be out?

FreeRideJunkie

08-18-2005, 12:42 PM

So I think that you are telling me to get the screw kit (because I need it) either be patient for the PS mount or spend another dollar through Tower, and then go with a CVD kit like this one: (3/16 because right now I have the older 1/4"... correct?) CVD Link (http://h1071118.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=MIP1197)

Thanks for the help... I am a bit of a noob to nitro and have been learning as much as I can from the friend that I bought this off of. :rolleyes: I think I got a good vehicle to start with. (and hope to keep for a while) It's nice that you guys are here to help though...

doesgo

08-18-2005, 02:15 PM

That'd be my suggestion. Yeah, get the 3/16" CVDs because it really opens up your options for wheels. The only downside is you need to replace those bearings.

As for the screw kit, even if you don't replace every screw in the truck right away, it's always nice to have the rest on hand. And the mount, it depends on how much of a hurry you're in. We've got the screw kit, CVDs (same as the ones to which you've linked), and bearings in stock, but we're out of the engine mount. Buying from Tower is great, I do it myself, it just stinks to pay $4.50 for shipping (or whatever it is) for an $8 part. If you want, you can order all those items from us and we'll ship what we have today and send the mount as soon as it gets here, for no extra shipping costs.

I definitely think you got the right vehicle to start out with in nitro. Another person asked me just a couple days ago what's the best starter vehicle for nitro and I actually told him the RC10GT! It's cheap, tough, fast, handles nicely, competitive, great basher, and parts are available everywhere. Hard to beat that!

FreeRideJunkie

08-18-2005, 02:37 PM

It comes to about $25 with the screw kit, motor mount, and extra bearings... how much is the CVD kit as I didn't see it on the site. I'm guessing that it will be about $50-$60 bucks total + shipping (however much that is) for everything.

Also... is there any other reccomended upgrades?? Like I said I have the Factory Team but I have RPM arms on it and carbon shock towers. I'm also running an OS .18 (whatever the cheap $100 one is) as I will be doing mostly bashing and racing for fun at the track... nothing with ROAR rules. Just wondering about anything else I can do to beef this thing up so I don't really need to worry about breaking too much.

And my only other question for now is about the ball caps for my steering and turnbuckles... Is there another way to do those or are the ball caps prefered?? It just seems that every time I land a little bit awkward I need to pop them back on. I wasn't sure if there is a way to keep them attached... or if it will just cause more problem by breaking more expensive parts.

Thanks again for your time...

doesgo

08-18-2005, 04:27 PM

The MIP CVD kit is $31.99, hardware kit is $12.99, engine mount is $6.99, and I'll throw in the four bearings you need for the 3/16" axle conversion for free if you get all this at once. Total would be $52.97 plus shipping.

I just added the CVD kit to the Store (without a product image, I'll try to get that uploaded later today), and let me know if you want to do this deal so I can add an engine mount to inventory so you can place the order.

As for other recommended upgrades, it really depends on how hard you are on your vehicle and what you want out of it an its intended use. Full bearings throughout the truck are important in my opinion, and with that .18CV-R engine you might find you'll need a stronger idler gear than the stock plastic one (inside the tranny). Spare spur gears are always nice, as are spare clutch bell bearings (if the bearings go, they'll take the spur with them).

RPM makes some other nice stuff for the GT, including virtually indestructible body mounts, rear bulkhead, and a front bumper. You've already got the arms though, which are really the most important, I think. Your carbon towers are nice pieces as well. Titanium turnbuckles are a nice upgrade, but they can wait. I've broken a couple front block carriers and steering arms, but that's rare.

Ball cups are a tough one. RPM's ball cups are very nice and very tough, but even they'll pop off sometimes. DuBro sells some "generic" captured rod ends that won't pop off, but you might find they'll tear the ball studs out of whatever they're mounted to. That's why it's a tough one, because the cups do tend to act as a safety valve - usually they give before the attached part does. The RPM cups are sort of a happy medium, they hold on stronger than the stock cups, but they will let go when really pressured. Another thing to consider, once a ball cup comes off a couple times, they're weakened and will pop off more and more frequently, so keep a few extras on hand to replace those that come off more than a few times.

FreeRideJunkie

08-18-2005, 05:03 PM

Awesome... and thanks. I probably just need new ball cups then because it does seem to be the same ones that are popping off and they are RPM. Since the truck is already set up full ball bearing I think that I will do the axle swap, the body mounts, (because mine are destroyed or missing and have been replaced with zip ties), the motor mount, and the screw set and I will be pretty much set. Then... after a nice cleaning and a new body I will be set. Thanks again for the help.

Sorry... one more question: The CVD kit... is that just rear?? If so what do I need to convert the front axles too?? Sorry, Newb.

(Doesgo- disreguard the PM I sent you... I didn't realized you posted here before I asked you again. Thanks.)

doesgo

08-18-2005, 05:10 PM

Sounds good!

Yeah, the CVDs are just for the drive axles, the fronts don't need anything else. They're just aluminum stubs that don't rotate.

LosiFromHell986

08-20-2005, 08:37 PM

Hey Guys, New to the forum, Just wanted to say hey... I might need help in here sometime! I've got a Factory Team GT with a Sirio .12 5 port Turbo (Ah! Illegal!), Hitec 925's, and Novak XXL/Airtronics MX-3S. Do any of you race in Southern California, for example The Dirt in Hemet or ARC? Palomar Raceway?

XXXNTMAN

08-20-2005, 11:37 PM

Welcome to the gt forum. I don't know if I am right to say this as i am new too but we will try to help you as best as we can

FreeRideJunkie

08-21-2005, 02:04 AM

Welcome...

And doesgo: I went outside and looked at the GT chilling on the floor of my garage... and it already has shiny CVD's. I guess I don't need to upgrade them either then. I will probably do the axle swap in the near future though. For now I am getting a ton of old wheels and tires from a friend who got out of rc a few years ago. Just so happens they are the current axle size so I will probably blow through these first. I will probably still get the mount and the screw kit.

And one more question: what is the difference between the high strength kit from SMF and the blue factory team kit that is a couple dollars more?? I was just thinking that since the rest of the truck is factory team... it might be nice to have the whole chassis that factory team blue color. Is there any strength difference?? Thanks again. I love this place.

And I edited because I can't spell...

doesgo

08-21-2005, 02:22 AM

That's great you've already got the CVDs installed and wheels to go with them! Can't beat that.

The Factory Team screws are mostly (all?) aluminum. That saves a few grams from the weight of the truck, but it definitely compromises its strength. There are areas where super-tough screws simply aren't necessary, but there are enough critical areas that we decided to exclusively use the high-strength alloy steel screws in our kits. If you're racing on a smooth track with small jumps and you drive really well, the FT screws are probably going to be just fine. But if you're like most folks you don't run a perfect line all through the race track and you probably will want to do some bashing, in which case the stronger screws really come in handy.

Also, the FT kit only contains about 70 pieces while ours contains over 140. I'm not sure what exactly they cut out, but it must be a lot!

We really bash hard, and that's why we put together these hardware kits. We were tired of breaking the stock screws and mangling those infernal Phillips-head screw and even the hex-drive screws made of soft material.

FreeRideJunkie

08-21-2005, 01:03 PM

Awesome... I didn't realize that there was such a count difference. I guess if I really wanted to set the truck up for show or onroad sometime I would probably throw the FT kit on. For now I do a fair amount of bashing and the track by us always has at least one huge double or tabletop. Thanks for clarifying.

evaderstman

08-21-2005, 01:54 PM

This is xxxntman from his computer. Freeride when I told you that my engine fell off those where factory team screws. I don't know if those were just weak screws or what but I would go with the smf screws. Plus everybody from smf rocks.

RC10racer89

08-21-2005, 04:25 PM

The track I run at is gear more twoards monster trucks and buggies, but a few other 2wd die hards and I always show up at the races there. We usually get a good 5-7 ST's going to the races, and its enough for a very exciting A only main. Anyway, due to the roughness of the track and height of the jumps for the buggies, the stadium trucks take a beating out there. I've bent a couple of the Aluminum screws that came with the FT kit, and I've since replaced all the high stress areas with hardened steel versions. I also kept losing some of the screws going into the chassis where the kick-up started, even with blue locktite. I reluctantly put some red on there, but I haven't had any problems since.

germanrc10gt

08-29-2005, 11:17 AM

hi guys,

i'm new to this great forum. as you can tell by my name, i'm all about the rc10gt and generally speaking any vintage associated stuff. recently ordered some parts for my rc10gt at towerhobbies, such as black hpi mesh rims, proline speed hawgs II, cvec tuned pipe, atomik body in black/white, proline gmc sierra body, some rpm stuff like a-arms, and autographics decals #3 dale earnhardt and goodwreck/nascar decals. want to make that little machine really look mean and more american than apple pie with that all black style. yet there is one thing i would like to know about one certain proline body, #3087 i. e. chevy silverado. i like it more than the gmc body. my question is if this body is a direct fit to the newer rc10gts such as the rtr plus #7091. proline didn't answer my question. does anyone in this board have that body on his rc10gt. does it fit or is it too short? would be great if anybody knew this.

thanx from germany

volker

LosiFromHell986

08-29-2005, 07:41 PM

Here's a Picture of my FTGT.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v251/LosiFromHell986/P0003019.jpg

I've got a Sirio .12 5 port Turbo, Hitec 925's, and Novak XXL/Airtronics MX-3S.

billmck

09-01-2005, 07:46 PM

i got a rc10gt rtr plus a month ago, and have upgraded quite a few things, including a new os 12 cvrx. the pipe that came with the rtr truck is this:
http://h1069648.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=ASC1775

question is:

http://h1069648.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=ASC1772
would this tuned pipe be better for the os engine?

bill

XXXNTMAN

09-03-2005, 10:41 AM

Hey, I've got a question. Me and my friend regreased my tranny last weekend. And When i try to spin the wheels it doesn't spin the axles. And when i try to spin my spur gear it doesn't spin either. Is that just my diff is too tight or is it my spur gear.

J_Bone

09-03-2005, 12:27 PM

Don't grease the gears!! The grease will degrade the plastic and you will strip out the gears.
Only use the grease on the diff!

evaderstman

09-03-2005, 06:56 PM

Piggy89373

09-04-2005, 02:11 PM

I have to agree with EvaderSt. However, if you want the smoothest tranny, run it dry. Eventually friction build-up will get the better of it and you'll have to rebuild a bit sooner. If you put too much grease in you can do more damage than if you ran it dry. Best bet is to grease up the gears, then wipe them down so there's only a thin coating. They'll look almost dry but trust me, there's enough lube on them to run smoothly without tearing up the gears.

J_Bone

09-04-2005, 05:43 PM

I would be the one that greased the tranny i just redid the diff with associated silicone oil and added some more green slime to the gears as they already had some on them from the last owner. Also i fixed his problem it was just the gear mesh was too tight. Also i don't know where you came up with not greasing the gears, but associated sells grease for tranny gears, and all tranny gears have grease in rc and real cars.

First off, most real cars don't have plastic oil impregnated gears, they are metal...If your running metal gears lubricate them with whatever you want and don't worry about it. If the performance mattered you wouldn't be running metal gears.

Don't lubricate the plastic gears. The manual doesn't tell you too because they are oil impregnated. Associated says not too!!!! That's where I got my information!
Green slime is shock lube.
Stealth lube is for the diff, not the gears.
You grease the thrust bolt and balls. No where in the manual does it say to lube the gears.

Do what you want , but I'm only trying to give proper information.

evaderstman

09-04-2005, 09:26 PM

Green slime is o-ring oil, but it is also thick enough to use as a replacement for the black grease associated sells. Also his car has an aluminum top shaft which is stock and an aluminum diff gear, but the idler is plastic. I also thing that green slime is made to keep the o-rings from drying out so i think it is safe for oil inpregnated gears. I also used associated silicone diff oil fro the diff balls. And i just greased the gears, because the car came with grease on the gears, and it didn't have a manual to follow.

J_Bone

09-06-2005, 11:20 PM

Green slime is petroleum based and is not good to mix with the plastic gears.
Great for the o-rings. Keeps them slick.... It should not be use in place of the Black grease either. :eek:
I understand why you did it and it seems right. But I recommend on the next rebuild to either replace all the gear to metal or buy all new original gears and not grease them. They will run smoother and last long. Believe it or not.

J_Bone

09-09-2005, 11:22 PM

Crescenzi racing makes diff and gear friction reducer. This is the onlt stuff I would use if I were to use any.
Plastic gears are lighter and takes less energy to turn them, so more power goes to the ground. On my gears I use a friction reducer and it is just enough to make the gears in the tranny have shine to them.
"Crescenzi"
http://www.baysidehobby.com/new3/diff%20lubex%20001.jpg

Check out Crescenzi Racing site (http://www.baysidehobby.com/diff_rebuild.htm) he has great information on GT's and has products that work!!

rocknbil

09-10-2005, 01:00 PM

evader, I don't know where you'e getting this, but I've run Stealth trannies for almost 10 years and there has never been any instruction or indication that the gears need grease. They run dry, any grease you add only acellerates wear.

The silicone grease is for the balls in the diff.

....there is one thing i would like to know about one certain proline body, #3087 i. e. chevy silverado....

Welcome aboard man! :D

You mean this body (http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/bodies/3087/3087.html)? Absolutely, that will fit the GT, it clearly says so in the description. :D

Rtsbasic

09-10-2005, 02:11 PM

Has anyone tried fitting a whole T3 frontend onto a GT?

J_Bone

09-11-2005, 10:16 AM

Has anyone tried fitting a whole T3 frontend onto a GT?
I've seen a few creations. Some one did a T4 front end, T2 and even a Losi buggy front end on a GT. It didn't handle to well from what I understand.
I'm sure some where someone fitted a T3 front end on.

evaderstman

09-11-2005, 09:13 PM

rocknbil i never read that they needed grease his truck came used, and it developed some tranny issues so i opened it up to redo it, and there was grease on the gears so i just regreased them when i was done. Next time i will have him clean them and run them dry.

FreeRideJunkie

09-11-2005, 11:44 PM

I had about 80% of a T3 front end on once... didn't like it. Fealt sloppy.

Rtsbasic

09-12-2005, 10:39 AM

Was you using a T3 or GT bulkhead?

FreeRideJunkie

09-13-2005, 01:50 AM

If I remember correctly it was a GT bulkhead. (I would stick to all AE though unless you break at a track and need to rig something up. That's what happened to me before mine was full FT)

germanrc10gt

09-13-2005, 08:38 AM

GaryD

09-15-2005, 03:26 AM

Help:

Do Team Losi wheels Fit the GT?
Or do Team Losi tires Fit Proline Wheels?

Just found a shop that will sell me Losi Tires at almost half the price that i'm getting Proline tires for.
Does mean i'll have to order them from the other side of the country, but it will still be worth it.

J_Bone

09-15-2005, 10:13 AM

J_Bone

09-15-2005, 10:24 AM

thanks rocknbil,

as one can tell by its description the proline chevy silverado #3087 is
a direct fit to the rc10gt, yet the question is which one it does fit. :confused:

i guess that rc10gt rtr plus i have has a different wheelbase than the older and factory team gts. unfortunately i was told the atomik ford f150 won't fit my gt rtr after i had already ordered it. damn. :o

and that proline gmc sierra 3109 doesn't exactly fit my truck neither, it is around one inch or so longer than the blue stock body. (that's a least one thing about that losi stuff i like: one car one wheelbase.)

does that body only fit that old style rc10gt with this narrow chassis? guess i have to scrounge some bucks and buy me another truck on the bay then. :(
i think that stock body on rtr looks like a walmart toy, so i'll use that only for bashing.

The #3087 body will fit the GT. I use it myself. My GT is an old tub chassis that has been converted to the new FT chassis. So now it's a bit longer than the old Tub chassis.
This is the new one....
http://prolineracing.com/proline/bodies/3087/3087.jpg

I couldn't find the #3109 body???
For the most part, all GT bodies will fit each GT version, just the holes might not align up. I'm using the old F-150 body on the new chassis and I had to drill some new holes and it fit just fine. The Chevy body #3087 fits perfect.

rocknbil

09-15-2005, 02:55 PM

The Rims won't fit. But the tires will fit on Pro Line rims. I use Losi tires on certain tracks myself.

Are you sure? Newer GT's have 3/16" rear axles and the same front bearings, don't they? Even if you have old style 1/4" axles, all you have to do is drill out the rims, I use Losi plastics off and on all the time. Could be wrong, but pretty sure . . .

i guess that rc10gt rtr plus i have has a different wheelbase than the older and factory team gts. unfortunately i was told the atomik ford f150 won't fit my gt rtr after i had already ordered it. damn.

Well everyone's given you the info on this, but I'm pretty sure the RTR plus is the same chassis as the Team. It's the old RTR that has a thicker and shorter chassis, but it's only shorter by 1/4" (I know I have one, my wife's is a Team chassis.) So this difference should be negligible.

J_Bone

09-15-2005, 03:36 PM

If all you have to do is drill them, then I guess they do. That's good to know. I use T4 rims on my GT sice I did the T4 front mod and B4 rear mod and never tried Losi rims.

germanrc10gt

09-15-2005, 05:42 PM

hi j_bone and rocknbil,

thanks for your support. and rocknbill, i assume you are right: the rtr chassis is
in deed the same as the team chassis, as they say on rc10.com that most of the parts of the team gt fit the rtr since it has the new chassis. nevrtheless it is strange to me that all bodies meant for the gt ft do not fit my rtr, neither does that atomik body. go to ebay and search for rc10gt baja body. then you'll find an offer by rcboyz for that atomik. it says "...fit the rc10gt, team version, does not fit the rtr versions!" and that's right, i have it right beside me and it doesn't fit. if i want to make it fit it looks like crap. so i guess i have to buy that 3101 proline gmc sierra. it is for the team and rtr versions as depicted on their website. (if it is for the old rtr i'll blow my rc10gt and stick to my rc10t.) would be nice to live in the u.s. cause any time i order a body in the states the body is less than 20 bucks and shipping is also 20 $. that is pretty much unfair! when i buy bmw in germany for let's say 40.000 Euro the same car (well the us versions are for some reasons less powerful) is around 30000 dollar in the us! and when i buy associated stuff in germany that's around 50% more expensive here than in the us. :( that's why i buy it on ebay.com and towerhobbies.

but first i'll have to replace some parts on my vintage 1/1 scale gt (vw golf II gt, also a real classic! :D ) thanks again! and j-bone, here a pi of proline 3101

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/bodies/3101/3101.html

germanrc10gt

09-15-2005, 05:44 PM

hi this is proline 3109.

germanrc10gt

09-15-2005, 05:50 PM

hi and finally my real gt along with with my rc10T.

TC3Racer

09-17-2005, 10:16 AM

IMO Atomik R/C bodies are some of the best-looking 1/10th scale bodies out there. They look very sharp and are pretty durable too.

pedeman

09-19-2005, 09:04 PM

german-if you want to, i'll be willing to TRY to buy the body you want, an if you check it out, see if its going to be cheaper if i get it here in the us, and then package it up and send it to you from pa. if you wanna check that out, ill help you out. only because my aunt and uncle live in the g to the ermany. haha. (i'd be willing to do this no charge to me, if its cheaper for you)

germanrc10gt

09-24-2005, 08:04 PM

hi pedeman,

thanks for your support! i really appreciate that, and that's the way
it should be among rc racers. i bought an old style rc10gt chassis (this narrow one) with some parts like a-arms and rods and tank etc. this morning (saturday) from a guy in pennsylvania for a couple of bucks on ebay.com. i'll wait for that and see if it works with my body. if it doesn't, i'll sent in a message for you. i'm interested in a '99 chevy body, the crowd pleazer and the original rc10gt body from the mid 90's, that boxy one you know. do you have a rc10gt rtr plus? that would be perfect, so you might know which one will fit on the chassis. it is not that german hobby shops do not carry proline stuff, but the old associated and proline stuff is pretty rare. and if my hobby shop orders something, and i find i can't use it one my truck, i'll nevertheless have to pay for it as they won't return it. so you can imagine finding the right parts can sometimes be very expensive... and like most of us, i got a couple of other things to pay for, like my real car. as i said, i'll see if that chassis is right for my body. it should arrive in around 2-3 weeks. i'll tell you. where do you get your rc stuff? towerhobbies? all along i thought they are pretty cheap, aren't they? yet best prices are on ebay, my opinion, i like rcboyz there, maybe you've heard of them.

by the way, if there should ever be something you would like to buy in germany, but perhaps there is some problem with payment methods (we germans generally like cash or money orders, very conservative in matters of money), just ask me, i'll try my best. ;)

germanrc10gt

09-24-2005, 08:06 PM

hi again,

where in germanien does your uncle live? have you ever been to germany?

pedeman

09-24-2005, 08:11 PM

i myself havent been there, and i cant remember what the name of the place they live in. sorry. i'll leave a message when i remember.

but my next door neighbor is selling his old golden tub style rc10 really cheap. its missing a few things, im not too sure what they are though. let me know if your intersted if you want it...

oh and, if anything ever does work out. i'd appreciate some kinder eggs (laughs)

slow one 2

09-26-2005, 03:32 AM

pedeman,,, thats not nice,,,, now I'm hungry. Our only European store in the state gets a box every few months but they go fast. Some of the best choc I've ever had.

pedeman

09-26-2005, 03:14 PM

hahaha yeah they are awesome.

J_Bone

09-26-2005, 05:51 PM

hi again,

where in germanien does your uncle live? have you ever been to germany?

I've never been, but I'm suppose to go in the next couple of years. My relatives live in Hanover, at the Schulenburg Castle. I have no idea where that's at or what are it is in...llol.

germanrc10gt

09-26-2005, 06:12 PM

hi guys,

didn't know our kinder schokolade (actually it is called "ueberraschungs ei" which is surprise egg if would translate it word by word) is that popular with you. next time i trade something on ebay for my rc10gt i'll pay that guy with kinder eggs :D . i would send you some of these eggs, but i was told that it is not allowed to send food for a single person to the u.s.. am i right?

i got another question for you regarding my truck. what about that cvec pipe with its dual exhaust. is that just for the looks of a car or does it in deed produce more power. i'm interested in buying one. does anyone of you guys run such a cvec pipe? what is your verdict on it?

pedeman

09-26-2005, 06:13 PM

oh and germanrc10gt- my uncle and aunt live in stuttguart (sp?)

pedeman

09-26-2005, 07:05 PM

hmm im not sure, i know my aunt and uncle send them here for our birthdays (and a little cash on the side, haha)

slow one 2

09-27-2005, 03:30 AM

I know you cant send food from russia to the usa (you can send it from the usa to russia though). if you have the right connections you can send it though!!!! not sure about Germany but probably the same.

about the cvec i have them on 2 of my trucks but don't really notice a difference

J_Bone

09-27-2005, 07:45 AM

about the cvec i have them on 2 of my trucks but don't really notice a difference

They seem to be more trouble than they are worth. Actually my MT ran better with out it.

GaryD

10-03-2005, 02:54 AM

I got the Losi Wheels and the fit perfectly.
It's the Tub chassis car that i converted to the new Chassis, so it's still got the old AE Universals.
Now my question is will the Losi front wheels fit as well?

Radio Acer

10-04-2005, 06:22 PM

Hi everyone,
I've been racing 2wd trucks for a while now, only i've always ran an HPI Rush. This truck and parts are becoming scarce, and my dad has decided he's going to get into racing as well. So we've decided that we're most likely going to buy a non-pull FT GT. I'd just like to ask if there are any weak points in this car that we might want to watch out for when we buy it. Or if there are any Hop-up otions that are needed right away. This truck will get some hard racing in at times, so any durability or setup advice is greatly appreciated. And i have one last question, i've been looking at a few receiver packs and i'm confused at to what fits in the GT. Does it use a flat 5-cell pack, or the "hump" style one?
thanx everyone

FreeRideJunkie

10-05-2005, 12:25 AM

You would use a hump pack and mount it on the rear bumper. I had mine mounted inboard somehow and raced without the bumper... but I cant remember how. The only thing I would suggest is RPM arms. I know they are a tad heavier... but it's worht it. Other than that I found the FT to be bomb proof. (Just make sure you have e-clips on the hinge pins. I had one fall off and the pin slid out. The rear arm jumped into the spur and it chewed it up a bit.) Other than that... great.

Piggy89373

10-06-2005, 08:55 AM

A couple of hop-ups to look into are the MIP 4n1 clutch, the Crescenzi Brake (http://www.baysidehobby.com/), Front and rear widening kits, and the CVD booties. Most can be found on BaysideHobby.com.

rocknbil

10-13-2005, 12:06 PM

...what about that cvec pipe with its dual exhaust. is that just for the looks of a car or does it in deed produce more power. i'm interested in buying one. does anyone of you guys run such a cvec pipe? what is your verdict on it?

Both my wife and I run CVEC pipes on our GT's (http://www.rc-resources.com/RockinBil), mine with the dual stinger, hers a single. We LOVE them.

The CVEC has an internal adjustable baffle to tune the backpressure. When done correctly, this reduces fuel lost in scavenging and can accentuate power in either the low end or high end, depending on how you set the baffle. It's one more thing to alow you to squeeze a little more powere out of your engine. Most eople don't like them because they don't get the hang of how to tune 'em.

The CVEC's are NOT ROAR legal pipes (for you, IFMAR :D ) for two main reasons: one, moving parts in the exhaust, and two, their average noise level is higher than the allowable decibels for a tuned pipe in sanctioned racing. The second doesn't cut sand with me as they're not really that loud.

germanrc10gt

10-13-2005, 12:54 PM

thanks rocknbil,

i think i'll get one of those pipes. first of all i need
to get rid of my vintage tamiya avante 2001, tryin
to sell it here in the trade forum, but that's a pretty hard job.
seems everyone's looking for new nitro stuff, just as i do.
hard times these days to make some bucks! :o

WALoeIII

10-16-2005, 07:45 PM

I am having major issues with my clutch bell bearings. I get about 2 minutes of driving before they explode. I'm running a Picco RC Speed .12 with an MIP 4-n-1. Is there a more durable clutch solution? Could the shaft be worn causing the traces on the bearings to vibrate and explode?

J_Bone

10-16-2005, 10:25 PM

slow one 2

10-16-2005, 10:31 PM

I hate to sound like a traitor, cause i love my gt's,,,, but switch to a traxxas clutch bell, bearings, and clutch nut. they use bigger bearings= end of problems. I have over 2 gallons on the same bearings running a mt12, very hard

slow one 2

10-16-2005, 10:33 PM

before I switched to the traxxas setup I was burning bearings and clutch nuts and the clutch bells every 5 min or less.

WALoeIII

10-16-2005, 10:33 PM

Done, thanks for the advice. I'd heard this was a solution. How much bigger are the Traxxas clutch bells? Will I need to downsize my spur?

J_Bone

10-16-2005, 10:58 PM

I've ran my clutch bearings since my GT was a Black tub chassis, 3 engines later and multiple gallons. Just replaced them a week ago.
I guess I'll see how long these last.

WALoeIII

10-16-2005, 11:21 PM

Another question: I recently installed the Crescenzi Brake system which works a ton better. However, I have a super strong servo (Futaba S9304) and it actually moves the spur into the clutchbell when I brake hard. What do I not have braced properly? I am using fuel tubing as the spring on the arm.

J_Bone

10-16-2005, 11:29 PM

Great braking system!! You have a picture?
You might have too much EPA or DR on the brake side of the servo?
Might want to as Dave Crescenzi, he would know more on his brake system.

WALoeIII

10-16-2005, 11:30 PM

I'll make a video with my phone in a minute.

rocknbil

10-19-2005, 05:28 AM

I am having major issues with my clutch bell bearings. I get about 2 minutes of driving before they explode.

Ha ha . . . had the same engine setup and everything. Anyway try a brand new clutch nut. It may look fine, but what happens is when the shaft begins to wear, the inner race of the bearing begins to spin on the shaft, causing metal on metal friction, it heats up and blows the bearings. Also as it wears this allows them to wobble around a bit too. Had the same problem at first and once I changed the clutch nut, haven't blown a bearing since.

HaPpilyObsessed

10-26-2005, 12:04 PM

What do you guys think of MIP products? any pro's or cons? for example the CVD's..??

Radio Acer

10-26-2005, 03:37 PM

JDAM

10-26-2005, 10:55 PM

I am currently running a FT GT. Its getting a little tired. I want to buy a new one but I'm going to wait for the new GT. Any new info?

J_Bone

10-27-2005, 07:03 PM

I am currently running a FT GT. Its getting a little tired. I want to buy a new one but I'm going to wait for the new GT. Any new info?
It's been designed and there are a couple proto types, but production has been put on the back burner for other interest.
I believe they think the GT class is dying and don't want to put more $$ out for production? They don't realize a lot of bashers are waiting for this thing, not just racers like myself. Well see.. That's all I've been told.

JDAM

10-27-2005, 11:22 PM

Thanks for the info... I may have to look at the JATO for something new and different.

jmcn r

11-09-2005, 08:32 PM

Their CVDs are great products. The Shiny ones are light and wicked hard too. Only one thing: watch out for the set screw that holds the pin in. I would check it after every hour of running for reassurance. I've had it fall out before. And if you want to, shrink wrap the joints, it keeps nasty stuff out too.

i agree with Acer 100% regarding the CVDs. just make sure (regardless of the application) to wrap the joints somehow or get boots for them. those pins ALWAYS come out. give the CVDs a look over frequenlty anyway. the extra movement and articulation in that area means you need to pay attention.

as to other MIP stuff, i believe in recent years they have taken a back burner in the aftermarket scene...they just havent come up with anything new or improved what they produce. however on and off over the years i have used a few of their products such as clutches and rear exhausts. they are decent in general, but often times i have noticed certain products had little improvement over stock (in some cases they migfht have been OEM replica).

jmcn r

11-09-2005, 08:45 PM

I know the RC10 has gone beyond it years of lime light and everything has slowed down including this thread...but I am hoping somebody was around with the experience to confirm something for me.

I am clearing out and refining my RC stable right now, one thing that will be out by this weekend is an older RC10 GT i got from a friend. the person i am selling it to (in rolling chassis form....a hardly used truck though) also wants me to help him make some improvements so he i have purchased a number of things to sell to him with the GT.

a PS GT Upgrade kit was purchased. i know he needs some spacers for the rear axels, but is there anything else that he HAS TO HAVE in order for the upgrade to be complete??? new body, wheels what not?? the truck is going from non PS to PS as well, new engine will come after the chassis is put together.

J_bone do you know anything about this? i read previously where you said "when my gt had the black chassis" or something to that extent..have you done the conversion as well?

also, after i do this i am geussing i will need a new flywheel to fit the chassis. probably going to pick up an O.S. .18 CV-R....is there anything else i did not remeber?

i have previously done this conversion on my tub rc10 last year that i went all out on...but because i didnt leave a stone onturned i dont know what i actually had to have. the forum i used to go through had this covered pretty well but it is now closed.

thanks to anyone in advance for providing any help at all :)

jmcn r

11-11-2005, 10:33 PM

another question for those who may know.

what wheel nuts will i need for the truck? i can only find nuts for the front end...not so sure about the rear especially after the upgrade.
thanks.

mrfudge

11-15-2005, 06:39 PM

mrfudge

11-18-2005, 04:35 PM

Doesnt anyone read this?

Tim'sLosi

11-18-2005, 04:45 PM

Hey, I just got my RC10GT last weekend and now my brake SUCKS I can't stop. It barely slows it down takes about 30 feet for it slow down from full throttle. This little problem caused me a nasty crash yesterday. I need to fix this problem. how can i adjust the brake?

It is hard to tell what you have out of adjustment. Could be the radio settings or the linkage. Best bet would to be seek a local pro at a hobby shop or a friend that has had r/c for a while. Here is a link to a linkage article.
http://teamassociated.com/racerhub/techhelp/techgtset.htm

rocknbil

11-19-2005, 01:25 PM

what wheel nuts will i need for the truck?

These (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2472&P=7) are the nylon ones, couldn't find the right locknut ones. It's an 8-32 thread. Pick up some of these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2568&P=7) while you're at it.

Drawings here (http://download.teamassociated.com/pdf/catalogs/drawing_gt.pdf)

Hey, I just got my RC10GT last weekend and now my brake SUCKS I can't stop...... how can i adjust the brake?

The problem with your brake is **most likely** a linkage issue as there is a very narrow band for the brake-side. If something's worked loose on the linkage, this will contribute to it to.

It's too difficult to explain precisely in a thread, but what you have to do is expirament with different positions on the servo horn and the settings on your radio and try to get the widest motion on the brake-side without sacrificing the ability to go wide open on the throttle. Once that's set, you dial it in so it begins braking immediately after you leave neutral (or set a teeny bit of drag brake) so it fully applies the brakes.

One thing that helps is swapping over to the Ofna Throttle Linkage (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBM06&P=7). Both the throttle and brake work much more efficiently. There are pics and discussions on this somewhere around pages 20-30 (I think) in this thread.

jmcn r

11-20-2005, 10:28 PM

thanks alot rockn! i checked back just in time, that drawing was a terrific help too.

the guy that i sold the rc10 to is building it up and is real happy now. will get those nuts and a few extras now :)

wishmasstir

11-23-2005, 08:33 AM

hey guys i put my gt on ebay ... http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=209538

11-25-2005, 07:20 AM

guys where can i see the 2WD stadium truggy racing video there?

Saboteur

11-30-2005, 09:09 PM

www.barnstormersrc.com is a great site. :)

A guy I met at bridgeport's onroad track got me hyped bout stadium trucks again. I may reconsider the RC10GT that my LHS has in the window, but here's the problem. It needs a pipe, clutch, and I'm not sure what else. I don't want a RTR and spektrum can wait till next year.

doesgo

11-30-2005, 09:35 PM

Stadium trucks are a blast for both racing AND bashing! Parts are easy to find for the GT, too.

MIP 4-in-1 clutch for $10.49 here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=69_57_100&products_id=249)
Associated Factory-style pipe for $17.99 here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=69_57_97&products_id=322)
General RC10GT parts start here (http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=69_57).

doesgo

11-30-2005, 09:38 PM

"guys where can i see the 2WD stadium truggy racing video there?"

I'm not sure what you mean by "there", but we've got some stadium truck footage in our racing videos at www.slapmafro.com. Click on "Full Video List" and the scroll down to the videos titled Blowout, Chaser, Heat, Storm, and Rabid. Each has footage of stadium trucks, monster trucks, and 1/8-scale buggies.

Saboteur

12-04-2005, 11:44 PM

I think the GT they have is the Team Built however they are getting outta the AE GT and start selling the Losi NT's more.

Doesgo-was that RPM front arms on ur GT that broke? :) Just gotta hate the cold. :( Still thinking whether or not I should get it...

dave mac

12-05-2005, 04:11 PM

MR fudge also ck your end point adjustment on your radio, you can dial in or dial out brake with this adjustment.

Saboteur

12-05-2005, 05:06 PM

I realized I have the following:

AE MGT 15T clutchbell
HPI Tmaxx vented flywheel
HPI R40 SG clutch nut
HPI racing clutch

So far all these things fit together perfectly on the MT12. Will it line up perfectly on the RC10GT? Also how will a onroad pipe fit on the car? I seen some people use some onroad manifolds and pipes as they used some race .12s. They seemed to worked pretty good. If that's the case the THS is coming off my R40 and it gets a new pipe.

Saboteur

12-05-2005, 06:20 PM

Good NEWS! My Hitec 945MG and 625MG just came in! Originally they were going to be used in the 8th onroad, but hell with that. They can go in the GT. Then again..the JR would be decent in the car although the transit time is .12. Either way the 625MG would be fine then along with a standard throttle servo. I plan to offer the LHS $175 cash for that team built gt as its missing clutch gear, pipe, and maybe something else.

Saboteur

12-06-2005, 09:33 PM

Ok I got the GT team built for $150. The stock flywheel is quite tall and almost hits the MT12 carb so maybe I can raise it a little so it won't hit. Also the stock clutchbell bearings were too small for the SG. I borrowed two from the duratrax SFGP CB I had laying around and had to bore out the CB just a little fit so they can fit. Now, an old New Era SG nut for a .21 RG was used to fit the SG shaft. All that's needed now is some sort of locking plastic part to keep the clutchbell on the shaft. Maybe something from my 8th onroad or nitro sedan will work. Time to browse in the parts box. :) I'll load up some pics.

Saboteur

12-07-2005, 04:22 PM

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3062.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3061.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3059.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3058.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3057.jpghttp://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3055.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3054.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3046.jpg
:cool:

Only slight problem...I gotta run back out to get the non PS engine mounts for this truck :).

builder38

12-07-2005, 11:54 PM

Hey all, will a 80oz/in servo be good enough for the steering? Thanks

XXXNTMAN

12-10-2005, 10:16 PM

Ya 80 oz in of torque is plenty that will work fine

iamrb

12-10-2005, 10:52 PM

Help Please! I am new to the nitro rc world, this is my son's 1st nitro powered rc. We just bought a stock RC10GT Plus. Are the stock tires sufficient for bashing around the house in the grass? It seems to spin the tires a bit much, are there better tires for running around the house? Are there any stock items that should be replaced ASAP? This is for a 11 year that has only ran a Wal Mart Electric RC, so we are already blown away by the power of nitro, don't need anymore speed, just want to make sure it stays durable. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

evaderstman

12-10-2005, 11:32 PM

The rc10gt is a very durable truck stock, and perfect for you son. For tires yours should work fine, but if you decide to upgrade look into www.prolineracing.com they offer a tire for any application you could imagine. As for upgrades there arn't any immedate ones that i can think of, but when you decide to you could look into www.rpmrcproducts.com they make great stuff. I hope this helps, and if you have any other questions please ask.

slow one 2

12-11-2005, 07:09 AM

a throttle return spring is the most needed part. the gt is great, have fun.

iamrb

12-11-2005, 10:11 AM

Thanks for the info!

offroadcrazy01

12-15-2005, 10:12 AM

Hey IMrb loosen your sliper nut and the tires will not spin as much also just a tip, every time some thing is wrong with your son truck don't look to upgrade it. Most of the time it's about adjustments or a habit proline does make great tire but they can be costly after a while.GOOD LUCK dont give up the first year is costly hold on to your pocket!!!!LOL :D If your going to be jumping the truck you will need rpm pivot blocks and if your 11 year old son is

offroadcrazy01

12-15-2005, 10:33 AM

going to be driving your need some red springs for your shocks this will make the truck alot more friendly to drive,also I would not drive the truck on the street.Take it to the track or a large parking lots street curbs and 11 years don't mix well there are a thosand story about guys who got ran over or the great curb they did'nt see coming.

WheelNut

12-18-2005, 03:16 PM

Note: I used a traxxas clutch on my truck, if you use a different clutch this procedure might be different.

First of all you need to drill new holes in your engine mount and tap them with a 4-40 thread. The holes basically have to be drilled as close as you can get them to the original holes. I think mine are 5mm behind the orginals. If you don't want to do this you can buy the Klien motorsports SG shaft engine mount, which is quite a bit stronger as well, but its also expensive. You can also see where I had to remove some material at the back of the mount so my back plate screws didnt hit the mount. You can actually get away with using the stock holes, but its not possible to back up the traxxas clutch bell enough to get full contact with the spur gear, you get about 2/3rds contact, so you could do this with a steel spur.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/WheelNut2/IMGP0832.jpg

Now I used a Tmaxx flywheel for this, which I then got a buddy of mine to turn down on a lathe so it wouldnt protrude out of the chassis. Traxxas just came out with a non-pull flywheel for the Jato that should work perfect for this. To set up the clutch all that has to be done is the bevelled cone needs to be spaced out about 2mm, and the clutch nut must be ground down so that it does not extend past the threads on the shaft at all. I also had to grind te corners of the hex on the nut a bit so the clutch shoes weren't pushed out at all.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/WheelNut2/IMGP0833.jpg

After putting one shim on the shaft so the clutch bell wouldnt rub on the flywheel I broke the outer race off an old 5mm bearing that was 4mm wide and used the inner race as a spacer. Then I just used a cap head 3mm screw to hold it all on.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/WheelNut2/IMGP0841.jpg

If anyone knows of a traxxas clutch bell smaller than 16 teeth please let me know so I can get the normal gearing back. 16 teeth isnt to bad, but for a short track it makes the engines power band a bit weird. Luckily my engine is really powerful anyways, so the taller gearing doesnt take away much from the low end snap.

Parts used:
1xOFNA10098 SG clutch nut
1xOFNA10099 shim kit
1xTRX4146X clutch shoes+spring (high stall)
OR
1xMIP1602 traxxas clutch set
1xTRX4116 16t clutch bell
1xTRX3281 Cone split beveled
1xTRX4142R Flywheel for Jato non-pull (Not what I used, but this is essentially what I've got now)
1xTRX5114 5x8x2.5mm bearings
1x 3x10mm cap head screw

Saboteur

12-18-2005, 06:19 PM

I just bored out the stock clutchbell on the GT so it fits these 4x8mm bearings that only work on SG crankshafts. :)

pcdude11

12-22-2005, 07:09 PM

just got a RTR with .15 tiger thunder and i have a few ques.

1)will taking out the resrictor plate cause any harm?

2)is a bigger tank available for it?

3)whats good break-in settings for carb?

4)what is a good temp range for optimal performance settings

5)whats a marker temps for running to rich or to lean

party_wagon

12-22-2005, 08:29 PM

If you can't find a smaller clutch bell then run a looser spring in your clutch. This will allow for your engine to engage slightly later, but with more power giving it a snappy acel out of corners.

doesgo

12-23-2005, 06:23 AM

I've installed OFNA 125cc buggy tanks (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=84_35_41&products_id=38) in a couple different RC10GTs, but there's no ready-made kit to install a larger tank in a GT that I'm aware of.

evaderstman

12-23-2005, 12:17 PM

I think new era makes a kit to install a bigger tank, but i am not certain.

doesgo

12-23-2005, 12:48 PM

Yeah, New Era would probably be your best bet for those types of kits. www.neweramodels.com

WheelNut

12-24-2005, 08:41 PM

If you can't find a smaller clutch bell then run a looser spring in your clutch. This will allow for your engine to engage slightly later, but with more power giving it a snappy acel out of corners.

I think you meant a tighter spring, allowing the engine to spool up to a slightly higher RPM before engagement, thus more acceleration. Although with alot of engines with SG shafts its not nessecary since they have so much power. Unless your on a very high grip track.

Saboteur

12-26-2005, 06:53 PM

Just realized my GT didn't come with inserts. I'd like to run tomorrow, though not sure if I'd be able to go to the LHS in time to get some. Think I should just run for now without the inserts and later on look for more longer lasting tires? I have the MT12 currently on the GT.

Saboteur

12-27-2005, 01:10 AM

**Update**

Some foam inserts from the stock HB lighting buggy tires were used for the GT. They worked really well and the JR servo is in the truck. It's ready for tomorrow. :)

Saboteur

12-27-2005, 01:13 AM

Another.

Saboteur

12-27-2005, 01:15 AM

So far it has now the JR 650MG steering servo, same Hitec 625MG throttle servo, the 4 pin flywheel and losi manifold. MIP clutch is coming soon. It's funny on this truck you can't get the wheels to lock up. I liked that on my Sport NT. :(

rocknbil

12-27-2005, 02:10 PM

It's funny on this truck you can't get the wheels to lock up.

But you can! It's just a pain in the A. You have to expirament with different positions on the throttle servo horn in combination with your radio and the linkage. It's a VERY narrow band on the brake side but you can tweak it so it will completely lock.

Saboteur

12-27-2005, 03:03 PM

I have my servo with max braking, but it just won't lock up. :( I'll keep trying something out. :)

tfhughes

12-27-2005, 04:17 PM

Hey guys,

I have my GT set up with my JR XS3 Pro radio using JR's Z270 for throttle/brake and Z590 for steering. I have no problem getting the tires to lock up at all. When i was my cheap Am radio i had big problems tring to adjust the brake...it was really frustrating. Once i installed my Higher end FM with the end point adjustments and all that jazz....all my problems went away...lol. Here is a pic of my truck, it doesn't show the linkage very well but it might give you an idea. I have alot of time and a few bucks into my truck...as you can see...lol.

XXXNTMAN

12-27-2005, 05:21 PM

I have a question. Today i broke one of my drive pins and need a new one does anybody know where i can get one or what the part number is. Thanks

tfhughes

12-27-2005, 05:59 PM

If you mean the little pin that goes through the axle that the wheel fits onto...the part number is ASC6375 according to my instruction manual.

tfhughes

12-27-2005, 06:12 PM

Here's a pic from my manual.

XXXNTMAN

12-28-2005, 12:32 PM

Thanks

Saboteur

12-28-2005, 03:19 PM

But you can! It's just a pain in the A. You have to expirament with different positions on the throttle servo horn in combination with your radio and the linkage. It's a VERY narrow band on the brake side but you can tweak it so it will completely lock.

OK I took back the failsafe out the GT and pimp slapped the thing. No matter how far the arm moves the wheels JUST WONT LOCK UP!!! I think I'll have to readjust the diff somehow tonight. I think it may be going thru what happened on the NT...the car revved while sitting on the ground going no where but in the air it will rev. Aarrggg :mad: !! Time to drive the R40 instead...and the 8th onroad. Any tips guys?