Associated RC10GT Forum v8.0 [Archive] - Page 9

J_Bone

12-29-2005, 09:13 AM

What are they coming with?? I was thinking of selling my GT to fund my next RC purchase.

FT chassis, shocks turnbuckles and other things. Just rebuilt diff, CF towers CVD's. It also has the CR T4 mods done to it. Os .12 CV-r with Rb mods, Brand new body un painted and still in the bag.
many others I can't think of ..
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album63/IMG_1578.sized.jpg

This is what the old body looks like, but it's not in good condition. NIB one is unpainted.
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album63/IMG_1590.sized.jpg

Saboteur

12-29-2005, 10:42 AM

I fixed the problem! :D:D:) The driveshaft pin was centered, though not coming in contact with the plastic hex screw. I had to put it at an offset so it'd snag the plastic part, but still remain in contact with the metal part inside the hex. I figured I can just opt for another metal pin, but it had to be glued in or something. For now this setup works perfect and the car will stop on a dime. :)

evaderstman

12-30-2005, 01:44 PM

Hey j bone how much woud you want for that gt?

J_Bone

12-30-2005, 04:16 PM

Hey j bone how much woud you want for that gt?
I'm not sure. You looking for Roller? With motor? (I do have a SPD .12 that has a new P/S, but I don't like the crank bearing. Get a new bearing it's a new engine in addition to the OS .12 cv-r) With servos?

evaderstman

12-30-2005, 05:47 PM

How much with the cv-r, and steering servo. So all i would need would be a throttle servo, and radio.

J_Bone

01-07-2006, 09:56 AM

How much with the cv-r, and steering servo. So all i would need would be a throttle servo, and radio.

Pm sent....
well I'm going to keep the GT and I sold my TNX instead. I have too much fun racing it. Sorry...

evaderstman

01-07-2006, 12:21 PM

Alright no problem let me know if you decide to change your mind, i would really like it.

01-10-2006, 10:25 PM

i have a GT FK and i wanna use novarossi engine(MR12 3pot SG type) to on my GT
yep i know OS engine is perfect fit to there
actually novarossi engine has long crank shaft so how can i use that?
it can not cut the crank so that has different engine nut thread than OS CV
:(

Diesel72

01-10-2006, 10:46 PM

So, any of y'all that have .21 converted RC10GT's, speak up. Mine just doesn't have enough power with the Hyper .21 I have in it, so I'm thinking:

I have the following big block engines:
-O.S. RZV01b in Monster Blazer (to be retired and parted out as necessary)
-Picco .26 in Dominator Extreme
-XTM 24.7 in nothing
-Hyper .21 in RC10GT

I'm thinking of retiring the M.B., and putting the RZV in the Dominator. Then I'd take the Picco .26, and drop it in the GT (I've got a project M.B. for the 24.7). That would leave me with a Hyper .21 lying around, but that wont hurt my feelings.
I want to put the RZV in the GT, but that would require a new starter box, which I don't want to do right now.

To those that say that a .12 has more power than a GT needs, please don't pipe in, I've been running this GT as a .21 for years, and it is built to handle the power (it also never sees dirt anymore; it's kind of funny when I tell people about my on-road and proceed to pull out a heavily modded GT).

So, any of you that have .21 GT's, speak up! What do you think I should do? Do you think I'm on the right track?

Radio Acer

01-11-2006, 08:49 PM

I was building the GT we bought recently, and i noticed the manual didn't say to put grease in the tranny. That didn't seem normal to me, cause all of my other cars have grease in the tranny. So should i keep the tranny grease-less or put some in?
and another thing, do you really have to cut the crankshaft down to fit a motor in this truck?i bought a non-pull O.S. 12 cv-r and i have the FT version of the GT. Thanx all.

farmall1965

01-11-2006, 09:06 PM

J_Bone

01-11-2006, 09:51 PM

Don't grease the plastic gears. Only grease metal ones if you are running those.

jnegrx

01-12-2006, 08:14 AM

The plastic of the tranny is a self lubricating type. You don't have to put any grease on the gears. Just follow the instructions. If you are going to use an all steel tranny then use the Black Grease but not too much. I have had a GT since they came with the black tub chassis and I've never had to use steel gears. As long as you have the diff at the factory specs the gear should last a long time, just check the adjustment from time to time expecially after fist building it. You shoud check diff adjustment after the initial tank of fuel, then it shouldn't be any problems.

Radio Acer

01-14-2006, 04:09 PM

Okay, thank you everyone. I'm not using any steel gears, so I obviously didn't grease the tranny. This thing is looking pretty good now. I can't wait to run it, but unfortunately that'll have to wait until spring. :(

tfhughes

01-15-2006, 08:41 AM

Baaah.....drive it anyways. If you have snow with that hard crust on it.....drive the GT on that. It is a blast...everything is smooth but when you get into a place with small driffs, it jumps pretty good. You could also wait for a dry day and take your GT to a parking lot. I know it's not the same as driving it off-road...but it "scratches" that nitro "itch" temporarily....lol.

You also buy a cheap pair of Airplane skiis for the front of the GT and buy a pair of Sand Tires for the back of it and drive it in the snow that way too. It doesn't work very good if the snow is really deep.....but it looks freakin cool...lol.

Either way, if you don't have waterproof servo's....put the servo's, reciever and battery pack into balloons and seal the ends. This is not a "perfect" way to protect them but it works good. When i had my T-Maxx, i drove it all winter with balloons and it worked flawlessly.

Just my 2 cents

germanrc10gt

01-15-2006, 07:44 PM

hi guys

i'm back on board. though i know this is not the right place to sell stuff,
i want to inform you i'll make this offer in the trade forum as well. i have some stuff that came with an all new rc10gt plus rtr and a bunch of things i bought and i don't need this stuff any longer.

it is

- 1 blue body never used for rc10gt plus
- one radio with antenna and receiver pulled from the rc10gt rtr never used
- 4 wheels of the rtr plus without front bearings never used
-one used .12 (or.15?) o.s. engine with "cz" on the crank-case. cut crankshaft,
treated with afterrun oil and seems to have good compression but i never raced it.
- glow starter with charger 110v, can't use this in germany since we have 230 v and different connectors
- one used legendary tekin 411g, worked fine the last time i used it around five years ago. collectors piece, was top notch back in its days
-the two rims shown on the pic are junk, have thrown them away.
-for a-arms by rpm for a truck conversion for the vintage rc10 (not rc10t!), very rare.

i'm thinking of someone who could resell these parts on ebay. i would do this myself and could gain more money, the point is there is only a small market for the rc10gt around here cause everyone seems to be racing their savages and maxx and most of all 1/8 buggy, and selling this parts separately to u.s. buyers wouldn't make sense since shipping would be much too high. so i'm asking 80 bucks for everything including shipping to the us. watch this stuff on ebay and you know it trades higher. anyone interested, drop in a mail. i'm a reliable guy, just as the rc10gt :) payment with paypal or cash.

pushnf8

01-16-2006, 03:13 PM

My brother in law just picked up a RC10 GT rtr. Does anyone know what other bodies will fit? He is new to the hobby as well and we cant find any info on compatable bodies.

germanrc10gt

01-16-2006, 05:42 PM

hi,

what rc10gt rtr do you mean? #7091 (i.e rtr plus) or the earlier version?

bodies for the rc10gt rtr plus: for example proline gmc sierra 3109 or
chevy silverado 3087. that atomik bodies look pretty nice but they don't fit the rtr plus, just the the old versions with tub chassis.

pushnf8

01-16-2006, 06:26 PM

I think its the plus? Has newer rear axle size 3/16 I think. You know a site that has them so he can see the difference?

peow130

01-16-2006, 10:41 PM

ok im new here i was starting up my rc10gt on my starter box and it just started accelerating like crazy :confused: . i looked in the carb and the carb slide air intake thingy was half open. I hadn't touched the dang throttle either. it might be that big bolt on the rotary thingy but im not gonna touch it without some help :confused:

my car=piece of crap

peow130

01-17-2006, 06:58 PM

the "rotary thingy" is inside my carburetor. im not good with words or rc lingo

RC10GT-NOOB

01-17-2006, 07:51 PM

(Edit) Wrong thread

peow130

01-17-2006, 11:54 PM

ur kidding me....

peow130

01-17-2006, 11:57 PM

(Edit) Wrong thread what thread should i be on?

RC10GT-NOOB

01-18-2006, 03:35 PM

No no no I posted on the wrong thread.. Sorry

peow130

01-18-2006, 06:43 PM

k i see

RC10GT-NOOB

01-18-2006, 06:44 PM

Why is their only 51 pages instead of 82 now?

Saboteur

01-18-2006, 08:14 PM

This is page 82. ;)

offroadcrazy01

01-18-2006, 09:45 PM

How old is your motor polk how much nitro has been in it if your carb is fine then it your motor,if you say the motor is new maybe you have a air leak between your carb and the engine try re-sitting the carb if that does not work check your radio stop spots make sure it's not closing the carb,also try to reset the carb idle screw it might be turning past the point it's suppose to turn

RC10GT-NOOB

01-18-2006, 10:03 PM

It says page 51 for me..

rocknbil

01-19-2006, 04:32 PM

How old is your motor polk ....

10-20-2003, 09:56 PM

That's a three year old post. Hmm wonder what Polksie's been up to lately . . .

peow130

01-19-2006, 07:44 PM

yeah my car is going out of control and it might be the carburetor but im not sure. I started it up and it went out of control. then afterwards i looked down in the carburetor and the throttle was half open. I think its that bolt on the side of my carburetor thats where the servo arm pulls the bar on a smaller arm on the carburetor but im not sure. I have a .12 O.S.max CVpower in it

rocknbil

01-20-2006, 02:27 AM

Welcome aboard peow. First, you're in the GT thread. If you have a GT, it's a TRUCK. Say it with me now . . . . TRUCK :D

Start with basics:
Make sure your transmitter and receiver batteries are fully charged, and if you're using alkalines, you shouldn't. :D But make sure they are good if you are. Don't take a chance on this - if you lose radio signal to the vehicle while it's running it can take off, flip over, then lay there screaming in agony until the engine blows.

You turn on the TRANSMITTER first before starting the car. ALWAYS transmitter first on, last off. You always want a signal going to the vehicle.

Remove the air filter and work the throttle on the transmitter. The carb should open full when you pull it back, and close to just a sliver, like the thickness of a credit card, when you let go. Now push the trigger forward (brake.) the throttle opening should NOT close up any more. (I'm assuming this second part is what's not working, but follow along, this is what **should** happen.)

Still open at idle (trigger released?) look at your transmitter. Somewhere near the throttle trigger you will find a sliding knob or a rotating dial, this is the throttle trim, for fine adjustments to the positions of the servo. Move it back and forth, or turn it. Does it close up the throttle? If so, the throtle trim is out of adjustment.

No? Look on the transmitter for switches that reverse the direction of the servos. That is, when you flip one of them the car will steer left when it should go right, the other, the throttle will open when it should close. Play with those, does it help or worsen the problem?

For either of the above, reading the manual is helpful, if you have one.

If the trims and servo reverse switches aren't the problem, you've got something loose in the linkage or a bad servo or something. If you don't have a manual and don't know how to fix it, I strongly suggest buddying up with someone into nitro or taking it to your local hobby shop and have someone look at it.

While you're there, tell them you need a throttle return spring, which would have prevented this (if it's none of the above.) A TRS pulls the servo back to idle if there's no power o the radio and is a must for every nitro engine.

I'm betting on simple throttle trim adjustment, but who knows, best of luck.

peow130

01-21-2006, 08:51 PM

............. i just took a look at it today and my batteries were at 9.6 v instead of the usual 14 v...... :rolleyes: . I also dont have dials on my JR Racing radio syatem. ummmmmm also theres this bolt on the side of my carburetor nearest the gas tank where the throttle servo pulls the little pole and how tight should that be? I tend to stay clear of my engine cuz i might mess it up.

peow130

01-21-2006, 08:57 PM

never mind i found those tires for sand.

Saboteur

01-21-2006, 10:22 PM

Took my GT out today for a spin and man oh man did it felt ssssoooooo gooodddd!!! :D :D I'd have to take it out for a spin another time very soon! :)

rocknbil

01-22-2006, 02:54 PM

... I also dont have dials on my JR Racing radio syatem....

Which one? If you look in your manual or post a pic, we'll show you where your servo reversing switches and trims are. :D I have a JXR3 for my Mayhem, the trims are adjusted by the little spring-loaded slide switches next to the steering wheel. Each little click (while the radio's on) moves the trim a little in that direction.

peow130

01-22-2006, 05:42 PM

Which one? If you look in your manual or post a pic, we'll show you where your servo reversing switches and trims are. :D I have a JXR3 for my Mayhem, the trims are adjusted by the little spring-loaded slide switches next to the steering wheel. Each little click (while the radio's on) moves the trim a little in that direction.

its The XR2i version and i already know about the reversing switches. it doesnt have switches its on a screen on the transmitter. :D it does have the switches on the side of the steering wheel but i already have those set up for my truck :D

peow130

01-22-2006, 05:52 PM

The stupid Copper colored bolt on the mixture control valve keeps coming loose, How tight should i tighten it? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

tfhughes

01-23-2006, 11:33 AM

Put a little dap of Loc-tite on it...make sure you use the blue and only use a little bit. On your radio you can set-up 3 models (i think it's 3) and when that model is selected everything goes to the set-up you have saved for it.(thottle trims, steering trims, end points...everything) I used to use the JR XR3 and i had 3 different models saved into it. Now i have the JR XS3 Pro but i haven't used it yet, it has a 10 model memory. Hope this helped.

peow130

01-23-2006, 08:19 PM

whats the difference between red and blue Lock tite? i have red, Cant i just use that? Or is there something bad about red that could hurt my carb. Also do any companys make something to keep sand out of the chassis. I plan on going Sand bahaing with my rc10gt. :D

tfhughes

01-24-2006, 08:55 PM

Don't use RED....it'll be on there forever...lol. Red Loc-tite is almost like welding it on....lol. The blue will hold it but it will also allow you to take the part back off again.

Don't use RED!!!!!!!!

peow130

01-25-2006, 11:13 PM

peow130

01-25-2006, 11:16 PM

ok guys im totally stuck in the sand. What rear proline sand tires should i buy? :)

peow130

01-27-2006, 06:57 PM

so i should buy the sand paw tires?

tfhughes

01-27-2006, 08:20 PM

That's what they are for...lol. I had them on a truck once for snow and they worked pretty good so in sand they should be decent.

Where did my post go for the link to Towerhobbies for the tires?

offroadcrazy01

01-27-2006, 08:24 PM

If you get sand in your motor it's over say good night,also if you get sand in the diff or tranny good night say hi to the hobbie shop and your work bench you will be there a while good luck

67VWRACER

01-29-2006, 03:26 PM

I broke the pull start on my RC10 GT. It's a RTR, and it's only about a month and a half old. I really don't want to buy a complete new motor for it yet, any suggestions? Oh, I forgot.... only the string part broke. :confused:

Saboteur

01-29-2006, 04:18 PM

Just forgot to post I got the MIP clutch on for the GT. :) It has the MT12 in there still and is plenty fast. What settings, for those who had the MIP, do you use?

offroadcrazy01

01-29-2006, 09:16 PM

Use the reverse set up with out the weights your car will be alot more reponsive

peow130

01-30-2006, 05:56 PM

Well 67 the only thing you can do is buy a new string but rebuilding the pull statr is tough work especially when recoiling the spring. Th only other alternative is buying a whole new pull start thats prea assembled. You might consider a Tiger drive for your rc10gt. they are much more effecient and the price isnt too bad at about $30.

peow130

01-30-2006, 05:59 PM

And off road im not going in depp sand only very shallow sand with my truck :D . I am just going to buy a 3 stage filter for the carb and the other stuff you said will be alright if im not in deep sand.

Saboteur

01-30-2006, 09:53 PM

Use the reverse set up with out the weights your car will be alot more reponsive

Reverse as in the opposite way clutch shoes are normally positioned without the weights eh? I'll try that, thanx. :)

peow130

02-01-2006, 08:29 PM

I was wondering what type of glue is best for gluing tire and what is the price?

doesgo

02-06-2006, 10:25 AM

There are many different brands that will do the job, there are different thicknesses as well. I prefer the thin type.

Associated has their version, available here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=65_110&products_id=340) for $5.99. Pro-Line also sells tire glue, available here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=65_110&products_id=473) for $4.99. Word is the Team Losi glue is pretty good, too.

peow130

02-07-2006, 09:37 PM

well i got some great planes thin glue

Saboteur

02-10-2006, 10:24 AM

Merh, looks like I may have to sell my GT...*sigh*. :(

doesgo

02-10-2006, 10:30 AM

That stinks! Why must you sell, if you don't mind my asking?

Saboteur

02-10-2006, 01:43 PM

They cut our hours at work due to too much competition, I had my mom pay for insurance for me with her card and am Paying her monthly...as well as helping with rent and bills. So yeah so far nothing. If I get to sell some other stuff in the next few days then I can keep it otherwise, it's gotta go. :( I've honestly only used it once since I bought it...really hate to give it up though.

peow130

02-10-2006, 07:29 PM

that sucks that you have to sell your truck. If i had to sell mine i would be real awfully mad

Saboteur

02-10-2006, 10:48 PM

It's ok. I'm going to want to race this year and I have a nitro sedan, 8th onroad, and the Gt is sort of play/bash. For the nitro sedan I'd like a spare engine and the MT12 is the one to go. With hours cut due to much competition in the area I'm only getting less pay. I'd run the sedan for a bit and probably later on just race the 8th onroad. Atleast I still have the trusty TL01 to bash with. It may not be a GT but it can still go offroadin and offer speed onroad.

peow130

02-12-2006, 01:52 AM

What type 8th scale do you have? Because my friend has that Xtm Mammoth and hes trying to find a dual steerig kit for it becuase he strips he servo gears in it a lot.

tfhughes

02-12-2006, 08:09 PM

Tell him to put a good servo in it and it won't strip. You can't cheap out on a steering servo for a 1/8 Monster truck.

Saboteur

02-12-2006, 08:29 PM

What type 8th scale do you have? Because my friend has that Xtm Mammoth and hes trying to find a dual steerig kit for it becuase he strips he servo gears in it a lot.

MRX4 8th onroad. No offroads for me. There isnt much offroading to do with them here. I'd have to race, but I've invested enough in my onroads right now so I won't get another offroad for a LONG time.Welp already got the GT sold. Surely it was a great deal. $200 all it needs is your tx/rx and engine. :)

peow130

02-16-2006, 08:42 PM

Tell him to put a good servo in it and it won't strip. You can't cheap out on a steering servo for a 1/8 Monster truck.
So what brand servo should he put in? like airtronics or Hytec? or anything else?

evaderstman

02-16-2006, 08:52 PM

Get the hitec with the titanium gears the one with 333oz.-in. should do very nicely. Also gears will strip much less if the the servo saver is adjusted properly.

doesgo

02-16-2006, 09:03 PM

There are a lot of good, fast, strong, tough, powerful choices. Get something with at least 140 oz/in of torque, and speed is your friend when racing. If you're bashing, it doesn't matter nearly as much. 0.20 second transit is fine for bashers, but .15 or faster is nice for racing. The Hitec at 333 oz/in is pretty slow (same motor as the less torquey one they offer, but geared for torque rather than speed), but their middle-of-the-road titanium-geared servo is a good compromise, I think it's around 200 oz/in and 0.15 transit time. The Airtronics 358 and 359 are great with 200 oz/in and 0.10 second transit time!

peow130

02-17-2006, 09:00 PM

well the steering system on the mammoth really needs a high torque servo to steer the truck....i really think he should put a dual servo steering attachment on his truck but that would require a lot of modification and money becuase he would need a new receiver that uses 2 plug-ins for the steering servos. Also, on my jr radio transmitter how do you change the mode for a different truck. I would like to use it for my stampede too but im not too sure how to.

doesgo

02-17-2006, 09:28 PM

One strong single steering servo is better than dual servos. Lots of people convert their Revos and LSTs to a single-servo operation.

peow130

02-19-2006, 09:20 PM

he already has a single servo steering system but its really bad setup...

jcv220

02-21-2006, 07:28 PM

So what's the hub-ub on the new GT? I'd love to know when/if a new GT is coming out before I buy all my Losi stuff for this year (been racing a Losi AD2 for a year but I'm anxious to get back to my roots). Any word?

jnegrx

02-21-2006, 10:46 PM

From what I heard; They are working on a new GT and have been for a while. They are having a little trouble because the test drivers like totally diferent things. The date that I heard was "maybe this summer".

wgst

02-24-2006, 08:51 PM

What are you boys trying to say?:p that having all RRPM gears means that im gunna snap out drives and CVD's?

well if thats what you think, since buying my GT, about a year and a half ago, i have only replaced my out drives once, and the ones on there now as still in near new condition. and My shiny CVD's get replaced about ever few months because they end up ~~ shaped from crashing... no snapping CVD's here... having said all that, i have striped a few rear wheels, but thats because of improper slipper and diff settings.

and even if Polk harder on his car... hes a kewi, so it dont count!:p

and download this if you wanna see if im harder on my car then yours, and you tell me(i think my car going over the cliff might settle the debate?):
GT Moshings (http://www.radiomodels.com.au/downloads/gtmoshings.zip)

and after being here for a year and a half, if not longer, i have heard what most people put there GT's threw...

Anyways,
Mad Man
Wallis Racing (http://www.wallisracing.itgo.com)I've been out of the RC game for almost a year now and RC vids [like yours] make me want to start bashing again. I think I'm going to break out the ole' GT, give her a bath and fire her up.

Thanks for the vid!

Dennis

mrfudge

02-28-2006, 05:57 PM

Hey guys, ive had my RC10GT for a few months now but now the the stock brake that it came with is very weak!!, like it takes very long for it to slow down. What can I do to fix this problem. I would prefer not to buy anything new but if needed, I can.

Saboteur

02-28-2006, 10:09 PM

ryno1922

03-01-2006, 01:24 AM

Check out this site for some relly cool graphics for Truggies, 1/10 scale gas trucks, and 1/8 scale buggies coming soon. upgrade-rc.com
Contact info@upgrade-rc.com for any inquiries.

J_Bone

03-01-2006, 06:59 AM

peow130

03-02-2006, 08:00 PM

ok well its time for a tune up in my rc0gt. What are good settings for the carb?

tfhughes

03-04-2006, 09:06 AM

That can really only be answered by you. Put the needles back to factory and then adjust them to your area.

mrfudge

03-04-2006, 02:33 PM

Check the brake hub and make sure they didn't give you a short one. It should fit to both lengths of hub. It's also good to check the brake linkage and your radio settings for brake.

BTW my GT is returning to me since the buyer can't pay me the $$. Maybe I'll keep it. :)

Brake hub? This is my first nitro buggy, so is there anyway you can explain so I will understand it? Much appreciated if you can

thanks

Saboteur

03-04-2006, 03:41 PM

Well it's a Stadium truck. :) The RC10B3/B4 are buggies..10th scale electric, and 8th buggies are the ones you see with .21 BB motors. Anyway the brake hub the part you attach to the disk brake. If you look with proper lighting you will see it. The standard one is plastic. You will need to remove the top two screws near the brake arm, and under the chassis, the rear wheel for easier access, then the spur gear and slipper clutch.

Budman_222

03-04-2006, 08:44 PM

BTW my GT is returning to me since the buyer can't pay me the $$. Maybe I'll keep it. :)

Keep it... You need at least one. I need two, and I'm still not happy. Building another. :D

Saboteur

03-04-2006, 09:19 PM

Yeah thats true...I'll try to snag that RB X12 rotary to stick into it. I prefer slide though.

Saboteur

03-05-2006, 07:29 PM

Ok....well my Rody V12 didn't sell. Here's the thing...my Rody V12 isn't near as strong or fast as the Modded versions...it's like running an JP stock vs the modified versions. The 4shoe was used on the GT before and it was really crappy...but the MIP was aquired. Anyway,I figured since the Rody isn't that strong...and is about the same as the Sirio Evo 2...and the I've seen a lot of guys using those in their nitro stadium trucks at barn stormers...maybe I could run my Rody V12 in the GT. It's been reliable, no overheating, idles all day long, and just basically has a more top end advantage over the MT12. The MT in my GT was pretty decent on asphalt, but it seemed to top out too quick with the stock gearing. Maybe I'll gear up on the CB. The RB can have some power dialed out if anything anyway. Still..a rebuild (P/S/C) though costs maybe $200. I can atleast get it squeeze for $30 and run another season. What do you guys think? Compared to the RB X12 rotary I can get at the shop, the Rody is just leave me with $70 more if I sell it and get the X12. What would you do? BTW my GT is just the team built version.

XXXNTMAN

03-06-2006, 04:15 PM

i have a question i just broke my tranny brace yesterday and was told not to go plastic but go with either carbon fiber or almuinum and i was wondering if any of you knew a place to get it from.

germanrc10gt

03-07-2006, 03:13 PM

hi guys,

once again you're my last hope. trying to restore my vintage rc10gt,
i placed an order with sheldonshobbies.com since they have pretty much of the old stuff one can buy with their shopping card system. so i placed my order, put everything i wanted in my basket and ordered it. that system said "your oder has succesfully been placed" or so. that was in january.
by now, no reaction by sheldonshobbies, neither has my cc been charged by them. i'm from bmw-country as you can tell by my name and they say they do ship internationally. the problem is i have some issues contacting them. they don't have an email-address on their website, pretty strange for such a shop. only phone and fax numbers. i guess if i call them it takes half an hour to tell them what it is about and what my order status is. besides that, calling them is around 4 dollars a minute from germany. so i would be very glad and thankful if one of you guys could tell me their email. maybe one of you has already placed an order with them. if anyone would call them and ask for their email i would pay him his telephone cost with paypal. i need this stuff so much. regards from germany, volker

evaderstman

03-07-2006, 04:12 PM

I have called them 3 times, and there line is tied up. I will try more, but do 1-800 numbers not work for you? Here they are free of cost, and the recipient pays for it.

germanrc10gt

03-08-2006, 02:44 PM

hi evaderstman,

thanks for your support, i really appreciate it. would be great if you could
find out their support email and mail it here. i did not yet call that 1-800 number. i wonder if they're still in bussiness at all, since it seems they are pretty hard to contat! as i said, i thank you for trying to call them again.
regards volker

XXXNTMAN

03-26-2006, 06:55 PM

Hey i have a question. I was wondering what would be a good pair of clutch shoes and where i could buy them. Just curious as to what you guys are running.

evaderstman

03-26-2006, 07:07 PM

www.ssrcracing.com make a great aluminum set as i have told you before. It should keep your bearings from frying too.

Saboteur

03-26-2006, 08:37 PM

MIP works great for me. Still dunno what to do with my GT...:confused:

mrfudge

04-01-2006, 02:47 PM

Can you put a two gear transmition in a RC10GT? just wondering(new to nitro)

doesgo

04-01-2006, 06:55 PM

Do you mean a two-speed? Not really. It's been done, even three-speeds, but it's not easy, definitely not a bolt-in operation.

J_Bone

04-01-2006, 07:07 PM

Hey i have a question. I was wondering what would be a good pair of clutch shoes and where i could buy them. Just curious as to what you guys are running.
I use the MIP clutch shoes. It has been great for me!!

peow130

04-01-2006, 11:31 PM

havent started up my ol' gt in a while now....just glued tires, and then found out my glowplugs fouled!

I hate that when that happens

holeshot19

04-04-2006, 11:01 PM

i bought a crowd pleazer body for my rc10gt rtr and the front body post wont line up , do i need new front body posts and if so what do i use part # thanks

smiler82

04-19-2006, 11:05 AM

ok ya'll...

just got a lightly used gt along with a parts truck (w/ 2nd engine) from a friend. Thing cooks. a few questions...

-mip 4 in 1 clutch, what benefits? worth it?

-any way to install a larger fuel tank to increase run time?

-saw somehwere a kit for installing .21 enginesin these things and was wondering if anyone knew about this...

thanks a ton...

doesgo

04-19-2006, 01:59 PM

The MIP 4-in-1 clutch (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=57_100&products_id=249) is really good for anything up to high-powered, torquey engines. That's all I use with small-blocks now, it's smooth, grabs well, and it's somewhat adjustable. It won't hold the power once you're running an .18CV-R or stronger, though. Once you're putting out that kind of power, get the SS RC Racing aluminum clutch (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=57_100&products_id=711). That's what most guys I've talked to are using when stepping up to .18 engines.

My bashing buddies and I have installed OFNA 125cc buggy tanks (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_135&products_id=38) in our GTs. Just use regular buggy fuel tank mounting posts mounted to a screw through the chassis. Nothing to it. We've done it on both tub-chassis trucks and flat-chassis trucks. Great for bashing, especially when running larger engines, but it might get you DQ'd if you race since it's well above the legal limit of 75cc.

SS RC Racing also has a big-block engine mount for the RC10GT (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=57_142&products_id=712) that includes installation hardware. I haven't used that one myself yet, so I'm not sure what is required where the clutch and clutch bell are concerned.

J_Bone

04-20-2006, 09:15 PM

doesgo

04-20-2006, 09:52 PM

i bought a crowd pleazer body for my rc10gt rtr and the front body post wont line up , do i need new front body posts and if so what do i use part # thanks
Can you just put new holes in the body and maybe cover the old holes with some stickers or something? I had to do that once, I believe it's a chassis length issue, the body mounts are all the same.

Bunsincunsin

04-20-2006, 10:55 PM

tfhughes

04-21-2006, 08:50 AM

Good deal??? That's an understatement.....that's a crazy wicked deal....lol. I'm not sure on the shock oil or springs cuz mine are stock right now.

As for the bearings, check Ebay. I bought a complete bearing set off there for like $20 US or something like that an they are pretty nice for the price, and serve the purpose.

Congrats on the RC10GT, i can't believe your friend sold it for $15....was he drinking at the time?....lmao.

J_Bone

04-21-2006, 08:56 AM

Hey guys!
Today at school I bought a RC10 GT from a friend for $15, so I thought it was a good deal and bought it!
I do have a few questions though........What weight oil is good for the shocks? Also what springs should I run?
I also need a bearing kit is this the one? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD042&P=Z
I would also like to know what engines everyone is running.
here are some pics of it.....
That's a great deal!!!!
For the shocks, Run 35 in the Front and 30 for the rear. But if your going to bash it, I would run 40/35.
Springs, Silver up front and Green in the rear. But again if your bashing you can run stiffer springs.
Here's a good spring kit....Truck Front spring kit. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBVF8&P=0) and the rear spring kit. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBVG0&P=0)
Are your shocks the same length? They look like they are. If so, you probably should get the actuall front shocks that are a bit shorter. If not, you will have bad steering and handeling.
That's not a bad price for that bearing kit. That would be ok to get if you ot a big order from Tower.
I usually get my bearings from Avid. (http://www.avidrc.com/)

There are tons of good motors. I think the OS .12CV-R is one of the best motors overall motors. It will have plenty of power.

For more info...http://www.baysidehobby.com/forum/

doesgo

04-21-2006, 09:43 AM

Great deal!

Here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=53_155&products_id=641) is a bearing kit made up of Avid bearings that contains five more bearings than the kit mentioned above but for the same price. Shipping is cheap, too.

I, too, love the .12CV-R!

Bunsincunsin

04-21-2006, 10:04 AM

Congrats on the RC10GT, i can't believe your friend sold it for $15....was he drinking at the time?....lmao.
I guess he is getting out of nitro and doesn't want his trucks anymore, he also has a couple T-maxx's that I think he is just giving them away....!!! I think that he doesn't really know how to even get his trucks running, or much about the engines and that sort of technical stuff.......I don't know....

Thanks everyone for the information and the links! I will look into those things.

Doesgo, I think I will get that bearing kit, thanks for the link!

Also is this the right engine? And it is a direct bolt on? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ72&P=0

J_Bone

04-21-2006, 10:19 AM

Also is this the right engine? And it is a direct bolt on? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ72&P=0
That's what I run!! All you have to do is cut the crank right at the nut.

Bunsincunsin

04-21-2006, 07:07 PM

Alright sorry for all of the questions.....But I have a couple more.... :D

What is a good differential oil to start out with? And are there any other major upgrades I should be looking at besides the above mentioned?

Also I noticed that in the front the steering has alot of play in it, is this fixable? Or what do I do?

doesgo

04-21-2006, 07:24 PM

No diff oil in the GT, it's a ball diff and its action is controlled with an adjustment screw.

There are a lot of places the steering can have slop, such as the ball cups, the ball studs (being loose in their mounts), the steering post screws and/or nuts, etc. Just go over everything and make sure all is secure and snug. Maybe grab a manual off the Associated site or e-mail me for a copy (doesgo@slapmafro.com).

Bunsincunsin

04-21-2006, 07:37 PM

J_Bone

04-21-2006, 09:40 PM

Thanks, I will do that, I also need to clean it aswell. I think I am going to get a manual off of e-bay.

Another thing, the pins in the rear axles are in the holes pretty tight, do I just tap them out or what?
Man, don't buy it from eBay...here..RC10GT Manual (http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/RC10GT/Team_Associated_RC10GT_Manual.pdf)

Ya, you can tap the pins out or press them out with pliers or channel locks.

doesgo

04-21-2006, 09:45 PM

Yeah, the manuals (in electronic format) are free from most manufacturers.

The pins are supposed to be tight on the GT, they're split roll pins rather than just slip-fit solid pins. I cut a slot in one side of a slip-joint pliers so I can press the pin from one side and have it protrude right through the jaw on the other side as it comes out.

doesgo

04-22-2006, 01:48 PM

Bunsincunsin

04-22-2006, 01:55 PM

Well, I would like to have an actual manual in my hands when I work on the truck, it's just easier for me.

Also on the steering linkages there are foam spacers, do I get new ones of those or replace them with o-rings or what should I do?

orange racer 2

04-23-2006, 01:17 AM

I'm with with doesgo . ditch the foamies !

Has any one ran any ceramic bearings in their clutch bell ? any ideas on finding a set up that would last more than three weekends of racing ?

J_Bone

04-23-2006, 08:31 AM

The foam things aren't spacers, they're just dust shields. They supposedly prevent (or limit) dust from working its way between the ball stud and ball cup. I don't bother with them anymore.

Ummm, this is a reply to the post below, somehow it got inserted above it.
I still run them, and they seem to do a good job for me. Every so often you need to replace them though. I've heard of people using fuel tubing instead of o-rings too. I'll try that after I run out of foam things. :D

khigerd

04-23-2006, 09:51 AM

J_Bone

04-23-2006, 11:25 AM

I didn't look that closely to the bottom of a chassis, but YA! It does look to be bent BAD!!!!
I would lookk into getting another chassis. :eek:

Bunsincunsin

04-23-2006, 01:03 PM

Actually I was thinking that too. I noticed it right after I took the picture.... :(

Saboteur

04-23-2006, 02:24 PM

Yeah it was a great price, but see what else besides the chassis you gotta fix. It's a PITA I got my GT for a good price also and want to run it...cuz now the LHS are getting more into losi and the GT seemed to be dying out. :o

J_Bone

04-23-2006, 07:36 PM

peow130

04-26-2006, 07:42 PM

ok guys...im having trouble with my gt again...is there another way to put the fuel line on the carburaetor? My needle valve keeps coming loose and it gets air in the carb..So. i tried tighting it so it was nice n snug but now the only way for the gas to come in the needle valve is through the back of the truck. I tried putting the line up and over my carburetor and now it seems like it isnt getting gas at all.

And 15$ for a GT is a HELLA SWEET DEAL!!! :D

J_Bone

04-28-2006, 07:28 PM

Well, make sure it's tight first. I run mine through the back and around the engine to the tank. That way I can get more run time.

Saboteur

05-01-2006, 12:41 PM

Anyone doing any racing with their GT? It seems less people are running them or reporting about races. Even my LHS sells more losi stuff now. :(

J_Bone

05-01-2006, 11:43 PM

Anyone doing any racing with their GT? It seems less people are running them or reporting about races. Even my LHS sells more losi stuff now. :(
I race mine only!!

Saboteur

05-02-2006, 12:43 AM

What engine do you have on yours? I'm thinking about an RB X12 in the shop...but its rotary and std crank. I want SG and slide. :mad:

NitroTXT1

05-02-2006, 02:38 AM

I HAVE ONE but i am gonna make it brushless i'll post pics as i build the truck up

Saboteur

05-03-2006, 04:11 PM

Have one what? The engine or the GT?

Bunsincunsin

05-03-2006, 06:35 PM

I was thinking of racing my GT, probably just for fun and not competition though....

But now I am not sure. I might sell it after I get it in running order, and buy a clod and make a custom rock crawler. I don't know.......the GT just doesn't really apeal to me....

jmcn r

05-03-2006, 11:18 PM

bunsin....as everyone is telling you..its a no brainer that for $15 you got a deal nobody should pass up. even if you are bored of it...clean it up and flip it around for a quick sale. there is no way you can lose. GT is good truck though.....for the price, i would hold on to it even if i rarely us it.

GT guys I am helping out a couple people set up some old tub GTs. one is going through a major project and the other needs to start his but his issues start with figuring out why his CVDs are pretty much falling out. i am geussing they just need the basic shims...havent looked yet though. here a couple simple q's for you guys that you probably can help me with.

#1 wheels. with 1/4" axles in the rear, 7800/7802 will work correct?
with 3/16" axles in the rear, 7803 is a go?
the front now is what i am a bit confused by. will pn#7842 work on all versions of the GT?

#2 after a switch to the 3'16 cvd axle setup. will the 6222/4185 wheel nuts still work?

#3 for all you .18 CV-R guys. what roto start plates do you use. i am geussing the HPI or Dura 12-18 plate will fit but I am not sure and since its not for my truck I wouldnt want to experiment first. also, will a non PS header fit over it?

#4 lol, i mentioned it above so i might as well ask. with the guy who already has the CVD setup (not sure if its 1/4 or 3/16 until i see it myself) and says they seem short and that they fall out from the diff outputs.....could there be anything else you could think of other than the shims?

#5 Finally........could some1 PLEASE give me the complete newbie 411 on SG vs Standard shaft???? i have never quite grasped the how of it all, just followed the rules. but why is SG used at all, why do you have to cut some crank shafts and not others? everything...... a link with a good explanation would be helpful too if you don't want to type it all out. i am totally fedup of just going along with something that i dont get.

with that said....if i just got this engine for one of the guys....being that i am following the rules and all, no worries right?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXGGP8

thanks for the help in advance guys :D

J_Bone

05-04-2006, 12:20 AM

What engine do you have on yours? I'm thinking about an RB X12 in the shop...but its rotary and std crank. I want SG and slide. :mad:
I run the OS .12 cv-r. It's reliable and easy to tune.

J_Bone

05-04-2006, 12:22 AM

I HAVE ONE but i am gonna make it brushless i'll post pics as i build the truck up
WHY?? just buy a T4?

Saboteur

05-04-2006, 01:18 AM

I run the OS .12 cv-r. It's reliable and easy to tune.

True. So was the MT12. It may be hard to get a .12cvrx side exhaust. I may end up buying a .12TR. :) Not entirely sure though.

J_Bone

05-04-2006, 10:08 PM

True. So was the MT12. It may be hard to get a .12cvrx side exhaust. I may end up buying a .12TR. :) Not entirely sure though.

The MT .12 is a great engine!! I almost got one but decided to go withthe CV-r till it needs to be pinched. The Cv-rx's are around every where and I think they are easier to come by. But the MT is a better engine.

rocknbil

05-05-2006, 01:49 PM

GT guys I am helping out a couple people set up some old tub GTs....
Convince them the aluminum team chassis is the way to go 'cause it is. :D Even with chassis stiffeners, the tub chassis flexes on hard landings and will eat a disproportionately high volume of spur gears. Also it suffers from axial flex, it allows "twist" from front to rear which affects handling.

#1 wheels. with 1/4" axles in the rear, 7800/7802 will work correct?
with 3/16" axles in the rear, 7803 is a go?
the front now is what i am a bit confused by. will pn#7842 work on all versions of the GT?
Correct on all counts, but you can use 3/16 wheels and drill them out for the 1/4" axles, even use Losi rims. The 1/4" front bearings have not changed, so all AE truck wheels are interchangeable.

#2 after a switch to the 3'16 cvd axle setup. will the 6222/4185 wheel nuts still work?
Mmmm I think so but don't remember, I just dig through the parts box until one fits. :D

#3 for all you .18 CV-R guys. what roto start plates do you use. i am geussing the HPI or Dura 12-18 plate will fit but I am not sure and since its not for my truck I wouldnt want to experiment first. also, will a non PS header fit over it?
Don't know, two words, STARTER BOX! :D

#4 lol, i mentioned it above so i might as well ask. with the guy who already has the CVD setup (not sure if its 1/4 or 3/16 until i see it myself) and says they seem short and that they fall out from the diff outputs.....could there be anything else you could think of other than the shims?

Actually shims won't help a whole lot, they just take up slack at the hubs. Stock dogbones are a pain and poor transfer of power, MIP CVD's are the way to go. Even those can fall out at the outdrive if there are problems.

The primary reason for doggies falling out is the A-arm screws become loose or fall out, allowing the arms to move outward. Use 1.5 degree A-arm mounts and keep them snug.

Otherwise the dogbones will fall out below if there is too much down-travel in the shocks. Open up the rear shocks, slide out the shafts, and put a 1/8" spacer on the shaft from the shock rebuild kits and reassemble.

#5 Finally........could some1 PLEASE give me the complete newbie 411 on SG vs Standard shaft????
No help here, only used standard shafts. :o It's in this thread though, discussed many times, finding it is the hard part.

....if i just got this engine for one of the guys....being that i am following the rules and all, no worries right?

Well, IMHO the GT is already overpowered with a strong .12 or .15 engine. Add to that people like to lock down the slipper, don't correctly mind the diff and keep it tight, and subject the drive train to all sorts of cruel abuse so they can do wheelies, a .18 will tear stuff up fast.

Don't know if it will fit because never considered the option, but will say one thing, go for a non-pull-start. :D

jmcn r

05-05-2006, 07:08 PM

rockn...........your my hero!LOL :p that reassured pretty much all of my questions and confusions.

already got one of the to go for the GT upgrade as well as a few other RPM bits and pieces....a couple RRP spur gears for spare and gearing options, mip 4n1 and some other basic stuff here and there. he is the one who wanted the .18. telling him to go the 3'16 MIP cvd route and some new wheels and tyres as well as the RRP diff/tranny stuff. if he still has cash left the trinity tranny brace!

the other guy already has MIP cvds....but they keep falling out he says. his tyres are bald and a wheel is cracked so same deal ..we are getting him some new wheels and tyres all round. his GT is in poor condition so a nice screw set, a pack of shims/washers and a couple little things like failsafe and fuel filter are on his list.

i want to get the stuff this weekend....
arg....neither of them want to go starter box.....want pull or roto convenience. i am geussing the Dura O.S. 12-21 backplate will work but i geuss its looking like at this point i will have to cross my fingers :(

i will be doing some of the tuning so i will make sure that the diff is set properly...but hey, if either of them want wheelies so bad, its their pocket book. i can only warn ;)

will search the thread to find if there actually is some advntage to the SG vs standard shaft topic.

thanks rockn!

J_Bone

05-05-2006, 07:20 PM

will search the thread to find if there actually is some advntage to the SG vs standard shaft topic.

thanks rockn!
There is no advantage to either one. They are just different. The GT is all ready setup for the standard so you should have parts already while if you go SG, you'll have to buy new Clutch bell, clutch nut, possibly fly wheel (not sure), and shim's to shim the end where you bolt it on.
I thought the Bell would work, but I guess it doesn't some how?? I've never used the SG on my GT but a few guys have over on the GThobby boards.

Saboteur

05-05-2006, 09:47 PM

Simply swap the bearings from stock to the ones that fit on SG. You may need to use a dremel with round bit to slightly bore out the inner part of the CB where the bearings fit. All you are taking off is about the thickness of a strand of here. A new nut is easily Obtainable and just one shim behind the collet. The advantage is that the bearings last longer on SG shafts as the bearings spin true. Basically the bearings ride on the engine shaft. A short cut or std shaft, requires an additional bit which the bearings sit on. The thread if worn can lead to wobble and improper mesh. If you aren't upto it don't do the mod, but it's rather easy. Dremel tool and a bit, go around the clutch bell where the bearings sit, fit in the bearings that work with an SG shaft, new nut, spacer, shims for the end of the shaft or a bearing and you're done! I'll post pics soon.

orange racer 2

05-06-2006, 10:37 AM

as far as engines go FYI . I just got a .12 orion wasp side exhaust rot carb . The throttle response is vary smooth and crisp . vary much like the mt 12 and rex 12 (almost the same engine) I had in the past . I tried the O.S. CV-R .12 but it felt like a low end on/off switch to me and not enough top end .

Just thought i'd drop a post to say the wasp is a vary good mill for the GT !!!

J_Bone

05-06-2006, 12:09 PM

orange racer 2

05-06-2006, 03:58 PM

J bone , the wasp is sweet ! you wouldn't regret it , it plain hauls a$$ !

orange racer 2

05-06-2006, 04:01 PM

After the first race day I temped it after our 7 min main , it was ripin it up at a cool 208 deg !! with about 1/3 tank left !!

Radio Acer

05-06-2006, 08:23 PM

does anyone here run HPI truck wheels on the rear of thier GT? I bought a pair and i tried on the adapters that came with the wheels. The adapters fit and all, but the axle isn't long enough for the locknut to be screwed on all the way because the adapters have an extra 4mm offset on them. So what do you use for adapters?

J_Bone

05-06-2006, 08:28 PM

Some other pictures of te new GT2.

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j8/MrShookie/DCP_1571.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j8/MrShookie/DCP_1568.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j8/MrShookie/DCP_1570.jpg
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j8/MrShookie/DCP_1567.jpg

Saboteur

05-09-2006, 02:34 PM

Yeah I've seen them on the other forums. I've decided not to sell the GT and keep it for racing. Right now with costs it will be in the $600s+ to get back into nitro onroad. The MRX4 won't be run until there are some races going, but for now I have this RB X12 rotary in the GT to run with. I personally would want SG and a slide carb as thats what my GT is setup for, but this is fine.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3360.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3358.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3357.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3356.jpg

I really did want SG slide, but the benefits of this is that it's rotary so I'd have the power at mid range for them jumps, and it has a composite carb to fight that vapor lock! Not bad at all! :). Welp time break the engine down, inspect, and get to work. You'll all seen what I had for it so now time to see the difference in the MIP clutch to the stock 4 shoe...as I know that 4 shoe slipped very badly. My MT12 never wheelied with it on and ran a bit hot.

Saboteur

05-10-2006, 12:44 AM

If anyone is even alive on this forum...here it is finally finished. Going to get a better air filter though. This is just a temporary one to keep dust out.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3362.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3363.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3365.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN3366.jpg

Budman_222

05-10-2006, 08:41 PM

Nice looking car. Might put one of these on there. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDGR1&P=7 Or the blue one. What body are you going to use? I have 2 with crowd pleaser bodys and 1 with an old 40 ford pu body. I really likr the cp body. Anyway, nice car.

Saboteur

05-10-2006, 10:27 PM

Thnx, I'm definately going to order one of those or hope to see if they have it in stock. I don't want to ruin my spektrum rx. I'm using the stock body for now but I may try a new body for racing as well as other upgrades.

doesgo

05-10-2006, 10:44 PM

You can get it a bit cheaper here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=301).

jmcn r

05-10-2006, 11:04 PM

thanks for the advice with the SG etc etc issues Sab,J Bone abd Rockn. much appreciated.

gt2 looks to be just the right evolution from what we can see so far :)

lds12

05-12-2006, 06:30 PM

Bunsincunsin

05-12-2006, 10:58 PM

Could some one tell me the difference between the O.S. .12 CV-R w/10ER Rotary Carb and the .12 CV-RX w/10ER Rotary Carb? Are they both the same engine? Do they both fit into the GT without any mods?

If I order from Tower does the .12 CV-R w/10ER Rotary Carb come with a pullstart?

I am talking about these two engines http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUJ72&P=0 and http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA44&P=0 .

doesgo

05-12-2006, 11:05 PM

The X just means pullstart. No X, no pullstart.

Bunsincunsin

05-12-2006, 11:17 PM

Alright thanks, I wasn't sure. I guess that was kind of a stupid question......

Bunsincunsin

05-13-2006, 12:56 PM

Does anyone know where I can find orange dish rims that fit the GT? Or what company makes them?

J_Bone

05-13-2006, 02:10 PM

You might have to dye them for the GT.

Aussie RC10GT

05-15-2006, 10:12 AM

any one on here know where i can get my hands on a factory team gt for p/s ? I'm hanging out to get one for my friend and I've been waiting from tower for 2 months. almost everyone i try is out of stock?

cheers

Fantom 15 gt

05-16-2006, 06:40 AM

You might be better off getting the new one coming out mate. But you could try ebay.

Aussie RC10GT

05-16-2006, 06:43 PM

You might be better off getting the new one coming out mate. But you could try ebay.

Yeah I know what you mean.... however we have lots of parts for the current GT's and I race one already, the whole idea was for us to have the same car so we can share parts between us..... I will move up to a GT2 in perhaps another 12 months when I'm ready for it I'm pretty happy with my truck.

cheers

Fantom 15 gt

05-17-2006, 09:32 AM

Ahh yea. Where abouts in australia are you from??

Aussie RC10GT

05-17-2006, 06:15 PM

Ahh yea. Where abouts in australia are you from??

I'm basically right in Sydney.... I notice your in WA did you go to the nationals a couple of weeks back?

Fantom 15 gt

05-18-2006, 05:21 AM

Na mate.

Cheers

orange racer 2

05-19-2006, 09:43 PM

hey ive got a gt rtr. So far ive ran four tanks through the engine with the factory settings to break it in. Now that that is taken care of, where do i go from here? how do i tune it to get more performance out of it. Ive heard that you should see blue smoke coming from the exhaust tip. On stock settings the smoke was white and not really present. I tried to turn the needle to have it run richer but it stalled the engine and Im pretty sure it got too hot. what should i do?

LDS 12 , To start get yourself a nice temp gun for tuning . with the engine properly tuned it will run any were from 200 to 270 deg f . when adjusting the needles you should try about 1/16 or 1 hour turns at a time . when I say 1 hour , think of a clock . Each number on the face of a clock would equal the amount of adjustment to the needles . after each adjustment run the truck for a few seconds like you normaly would then check the temp . too hot , richen the main needle , too cold lean the main . run and check again till all is ok . To check the low end needle you can do the pinch method . With the engine running , pinch the fuel line to the carb . The engine should run for a couple seconds , speed up slightly and shut off . if it revs right away its too lean , if it sets there an runs for what seems like forever its too rich . When the carb is properly tuned the temp will be some where in the range above and you should be able to let the truck idle for a few seconds , punch it and the truck should take off with out sputtering or stalling .

hope this helps ! :)
P.S. sorry for the long a$$ post guys :D

Radio Acer

06-06-2006, 09:55 PM

ok, this truck has lately gotten on my nerves. So i assemble the shocks exactly the way they're suppossed to be, the seals snapped in and everything, but they leak horribly. Why? because the seal comes out when the shock shaft goes through it cuz the holes in the seals are too small. i've enlarged the holes and it seems to work on one shock so far. And now it looks like i'll hafta do that for all of the other three shocks. And i really don't like the design of the shocks, it takes forever to bleed them properly. Does anyone know of any shocks from other companies that will fit this truck with bladder seals at the top or something? I was thinking GPM or some manufacturer like that, but i've heard that GPM shocks leak horribly. Hopefully i'll finish the shocks and break-in process of the engine to get this going for this weekend's race.

J_Bone

06-07-2006, 11:41 PM

Well, AE shocks are simple to build and work great.
If the holes in the seal don't fit, do you have the right shafts? If they are coming out then they might also be worn out where the seal snaps in?

When inserting the shaft through the o-rings. Put some shock oil on the threads so they dont' tear them. Don't use green slim (Factory tip).

Don't get GPM shocks....Junk.

Radio Acer

06-08-2006, 10:19 PM

The shocks are brand new, and i'm 100% certain that i'm using the correct shafts, because they are the ones that came with the kit. Luckily, it looks like i had that problem on only one shock. The other three seems fine, so i'm a little comforted.
The body should be finished tonight. I'll post some pics once i get the chance.
And thank you for confirming my doubts about GPM shocks. I like their regular stuff, but I never used their shocks before and I've heard mixed stories about their performance.

associatedude92

06-08-2006, 10:44 PM

ok so i took the restrictor thing out or the white thing in the carb and i go WOT and the opening isn't all the way until i move it so how can i make it open all the way so do i adjust the idle cause thats all i can think

Bunsincunsin

06-22-2006, 03:18 PM

Does anyone know of any good forums that are pretty much dedicated to RC10 GT's?

Budman_222

06-22-2006, 08:40 PM

http://www.baysidehobby.com/forum/

J_Bone

06-22-2006, 10:30 PM

Yup, that's the place to be... :D

Bunsincunsin

06-22-2006, 10:50 PM

Cool, thanks for the link!

masterchief06

07-07-2006, 09:17 AM

Hello,

Im kinda new to the RC10GTs, but not new at all to RC, or nitro st's for that matter, but I am having a reoccuring problem with my rear wheels on my truck. I have ran it a total of two times thus far (I got it in a trade from someone, but it is clean like new), and every time I run, the right rear pin strips the wheel and then the engine just revs because it has no load. I have an HPI MT2 as well, and on one of its parts trees, it has an adapter that allows you to use pins style axles with hex wheels. Well, the collet pins that run throught the axles were WAY to big for the little slot for the pin in the hex adapters, and the adapters wouldn't fit over the taper on the RC10GT axle (right at where the pin goes through the axle). Well, I took a drill bit exactly the size of the larger part of the axle, and drilled about half way throught the adapter, and then I widened out the notch for the axle pin with a small drill bit laid sidewyas on top of the hex adapter. Well anyways, none of my modifications failed, but of all things, after about 5 minutes of running around in my yard and driveway, the hex adapter just rounded off inside the hex in the wheel. So needless to say I am completely helpless, but its funny because the left rear wheel never had that problem and they are identical. Any ideas? I am really desperate here! Thanks

Mike

J_Bone

07-07-2006, 09:40 AM

That's one I see happen every so often. It's usually from a bent pin or not setting the rim in the slot good enough and/or the slot is starting to get worn out or is worn out.
I did it once and I've broken a pin once in the 2 years of racing mine. Another thing, what rims are you using? I use AE T4 rims and I don't have a problem unless I don't get the pin in the slot.

How is your diff and slipper? It's possible that the pin is wearing out the rim form jumping too. IF you land with the throttle on and have good traction with the slipper too tight, that will lead to premature wear.

masterchief06

07-07-2006, 09:47 AM

You know, Im not even sure. I got these rims in a trade, and the centers of them are in perfect shape, its just the pin backs out under high RPMs. And another thing I try to do is tighten down the lock nut on the shaft and it won't allow me to hold the inside pin from turning, in other words, the pin is turning already before I can even get the wheel tight. Believe me I tried everything, so maybe Ill just change wheels tomorrow when I go to the LHS. Thanks

Mike

J_Bone

07-07-2006, 09:58 AM

Slide the rim onto the pin first and use the tire to hold on to while you tighten the nut. ??
There should be no way the pin should come out once it's tightened up.
Maybe they are the wrong rims? Does the pin fit tight? Try a new nut with the nylon.

masterchief06

07-07-2006, 10:00 AM

Brand new nuts, and the pins fit tight. Its really weird I have to admit. belive me Ive had all my force trying to hold the wheel on while I turn the lock nut, but to no avail. Its starting to anger me

Mike

J_Bone

07-07-2006, 10:15 AM

Well I've upgraded to the B4 rear axel and shim setup.
Maybe this will help?
http://www.baysidehobby.com/new4/B4-CVD-assem%20022.jpg

masterchief06

07-07-2006, 10:17 AM

So that is just the stock B4 rear axles? That may be an easy fix. Do I need the dogbones too or just the axles?

Mike

J_Bone

07-07-2006, 10:19 AM

Nope, just the axels. BUT it's for the AE/MIP CVD's.

masterchief06

07-07-2006, 10:24 AM

so the reg dog bones won't work?

Mike

J_Bone

07-07-2006, 10:25 AM

Shims http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=7368&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go
B4/T4 MIP CVD Axles http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=9598&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go
B4/T4 Wheel Spacer http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=9608&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

masterchief06

07-07-2006, 10:25 AM

can you provide Tower Hobbies item numbers for EVERYTHING I need to do the conversion? That way I can get an idea of how much stuff is, or just give me the Team Associated item numbers. Thanks

Mike

masterchief06

07-07-2006, 10:43 AM

so I can use the stock RC10GT dogbones with the CVD axles? or Do I need to get the MIP CVD kit for the RC10GT first?

Thanks for all your help so far

Mike

J_Bone

07-07-2006, 10:48 AM

Check the post above. I redid the links for the updated items. Now do you have the regular dog bones? If so you will need these as well:
CVD Bone:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=7379&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

Now I use these , but I have my shocks limited: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=7453&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

Now I'm not sure which axel sizes you have, but I converted my rear hubs over to T4/B4 ones as well since I had extra. It's not necessary. Some GT’s have ¼” while others have 3/8”

masterchief06

07-07-2006, 10:57 AM

I have the 3/8 I believe, because they are so large the sheels won't fit over them. So all I need are the spacers, the RC10GT CVDs and the B4 axles? ans does the B4 use the same lock nuts as the RC10GT? I've found that most 1/10 things do. Thanks a bunch

Mike

J_Bone

07-07-2006, 10:58 AM

so I can use the stock RC10GT dogbones with the CVD axles? or Do I need to get the MIP CVD kit for the RC10GT first?

Thanks for all your help so far

Mike
Yes, you can use the stock GT CVD dog bones.

J_Bone

07-07-2006, 11:03 AM

androdz1

07-12-2006, 12:19 AM

Hi which servos do you guys recommend for an rc10gt. Give the item numbers so I can look them up. Att. Andrew Guys please no overkill lol

androdz1

07-12-2006, 01:09 AM

I was recommended this 2: Hitec HS-645MG and the Fuataba S3003

any suggestions?

Att. Andrew

doesgo

07-12-2006, 06:25 AM

The 645MG is powerful but too slow, in my opinion, and the S3003 is both slow AND weak. I guess it depends what you want from your vehicle and how much you want to spend.

The Hitec 625MG (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=36) is the same price as the 645MG (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=35) and geared differently for a little less torque and faster speed. Much better, in my opinion, for the steering in a stadium truck. There are better servos than that, of course, but for under $40 these are pretty good. For the throttle/brake servo on a budge, I'd run a Hitec 525BB (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=645). It's got enough power and good speed (0.13 sec) for the price (under $30), and it's got a smooth ball-bearing-supported geartrain.

If you want to spend a couple bucks more, you can get the Hitec HS-635HB (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=33) servo with 83 in/oz torque and a 0.15 transit speed that's digital for more holding power, and it's also ball-bearing-supported.

androdz1

07-12-2006, 08:39 AM

I looked up the 625 and the 635 and it shows that they have the same speed but the 625 has more torque. Are there any other faster servos?

doesgo

07-12-2006, 09:03 AM

Lots of them, but you gotta pay to play. The Airtronics 357 (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=751) is among the fastest, at 0.07 second transit time and 125 in/oz torque. The Airtronics 358 (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=370) and 359 (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=371) have a 0.10 transit time and 200 in/oz.

The Hitec 5925MG (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=647) is also fast, at 0.08 sec and puts out 128 oz/in torque. The Hitec 6865HB (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=34) is another fast one with 0.08 transit time and 111 in/oz.

Among the least expensive of the high-speed servos is the Hitec 965MG (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=784). 0.10 sec transit time, 132 oz/in torque, and under $70.

J_Bone

07-12-2006, 11:42 PM

I was recommended this 2: Hitec HS-645MG and the Fuataba S3003

any suggestions?

Att. Andrew
I have run both the 645's and 625's and had 2 of each stop working in a year. :mad:
I wouldn't recommend any 3-pole servos.
I run a Hitec 5945 for steering and a 925 for throttle. :D

androdz1

07-13-2006, 12:05 AM

will the DuraTrax Kwik-Pit 1/10 & 1/8 Universal Starter Box work with the rc10gt or do I have to buy the Associated one? The duratrax is a good $20 cheaper which one you recommend?

J_Bone

07-13-2006, 12:16 AM

will the DuraTrax Kwik-Pit 1/10 & 1/8 Universal Starter Box work with the rc10gt or do I have to buy the Associated one? The duratrax is a good $20 cheaper which one you recommend?
Probably?? got a link to it?

I use a OFNA box for mt GT and it works great.

androdz1

07-13-2006, 01:16 AM

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRS98&P=ML Thats the link

J_Bone

07-13-2006, 10:57 PM

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRS98&P=ML Thats the link
Ah ya!! That one will work no problem. Looks just like mine except the names are different.
Here's mine...My OFNA box (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXU2&P=ML)

Aussie RC10GT

07-13-2006, 11:46 PM

Does anyone else have problems with their toe blocks coming loose?

I am plauged with this problem and its frustrating to say the least ! what soloutions are there....... I have RPM toe blocks that are goin on are they better?

doesgo

07-13-2006, 11:59 PM

Are the big flathead screws backing out? If so, use longer screws and put nuts on top of them to lock them in place.

Aussie RC10GT

07-14-2006, 12:31 AM

Are the big flathead screws backing out? If so, use longer screws and put nuts on top of them to lock them in place.

Yeah I thought of doin that just imperial threads are a bit harder to get out this way........ I am gonna persist in finding some!

I really don't understand why they overlooked this problem......

that and the flimsy transmission

peow130

07-15-2006, 05:46 PM

ok guys i got problems... I got my new engine for my GT about... i dont know... last summer and i tried to start it up last weekend and it ran like crap
It felt as if it either wasnt getting enouigh air or the piston was going out. My dad and i tried cleaning out the air filter (3-4 times) and it still woudnt run. Then i thought about where my gas line goes to the little needle valve on the carb and for some reason i cant get the hole for the gas on it to line up with the hole in the needlevalve without having to have the gas line come over the carb and into it throuugh the valve. And another thing. i have a carb off the original .15 AE thats still got its original stuff. How can i clean that? :confused:
...my .15 piston shattered inside it i have the OS .12 cvr power...

wvrednek

07-16-2006, 01:20 PM

u could try usin a sewing needle or a small piece of wire to line it up
wht i did wz use a brass gasget off a glow plug to shim the valve up so it tightens up in a diff place but that can b hard to get lined up prefectly :mad:

peow130

07-16-2006, 05:08 PM

hmmm... well i just decided to use the needle valve off the ol' gt engine cuz its got 2 holes for gas instead of one. so thats problem 1 down

And i figured out the other problem uin my carb. The little needle-type-thingy on the inside of the rotating shaft in my carb was WAY too tight and was runing it WAY too lean... it wasnt even getting gas lol.. :rolleyes:

Rtsbasic

07-16-2006, 06:27 PM

Something different about my GT tranny..just can't quite put my finger on it..;) This will be my 2nd conversion after my 1st last summer.

Aussie RC10GT

07-16-2006, 06:43 PM

Yeah I thought of doin that just imperial threads are a bit harder to get out this way........ I am gonna persist in finding some!

I really don't understand why they overlooked this problem......

that and the flimsy transmission

Update!

Got the RPM toe blocks in all good now they actually come with a long screw that goes all the way through the toe block and they give you a nut to go on the back! done some test and tune yesterday and landed fairly hard not loose at all still 100% tight.......... this and all the billet gears and trans case & brace I am very happy with the car now as these were on going problems for me!

cheers

Bunsincunsin

07-31-2006, 01:11 PM

Anyone have the part # or a link for the rear wheel nuts?

Aussie RC10GT

07-31-2006, 07:58 PM

Anyone have the part # or a link for the rear wheel nuts?

should be in your assembly manual or look on their site! www.rc10.com might find it there

Bunsincunsin

07-31-2006, 08:40 PM

I don't have a manual, but thanks. I looked on their site and can't seem to find it either.

BTE214

08-01-2006, 02:58 AM

3438 for the blue low profile ones. Im too lazy to look up the regular ones right now but if that's what you want i can look later today (it's 2 am). http://www.rc10.com/enlarge/3438.htm

Bunsincunsin

08-01-2006, 12:41 PM

Those will work.

Thanks!

J_Bone

08-01-2006, 10:29 PM

Something different about my GT tranny..just can't quite put my finger on it..;) This will be my 2nd conversion after my 1st last summer.
Electric motor plate. WHy?

Rtsbasic

08-04-2006, 08:31 AM

J_Bone: Why not? :) Its a heck of a lot faster with a brushless electric motor than any nitro motor you could fit. Runs for 15-20min as well per set of batteries. Thats more than a tank of fuel under racing conditions?

J_Bone

08-04-2006, 08:56 AM

Why convert a GT? Because AE already has a T4. The balance of the GT is now going to be off.

doesgo

08-04-2006, 10:40 AM

Its a heck of a lot faster with a brushless electric motor than any nitro motor you could fit.

Can it do 60mph? :)

http://www.slapmafro.com/images/farmbash8b.jpg

Part 2 of the Farm Bash 8 video is now available for download! In the second part, we go a bit more crazy and really use the ramps in constructive and destructive ways. Ok, maybe not constructive... You'll also see a pretty sweet speed run by a .21 powered RC10GT - filmed while hanging out the back of a van!

Enjoy!

Farm Bash 8 - part 2 (http://www.slapmafro.com/movies/SMF-FarmBash8b.wmv) (WMV, 28.4mb, 7:46)
An iPod friendly version is available at www.slapmafro.com

Rtsbasic

08-04-2006, 06:03 PM

The T4 is too fragile for proper bashing basically. Its a complete race-orientiated truck, my conversion is more aimed at general bashing. The weight balance isn't off enough to worry about or to make it unstable as I have the batteries down the middle like a T4, and the motor is still very close to the rear axle.

When its run on the full cell count (12 cells, i can safely run 14 if thats not enough) it should clear 60mph, possibly come close to 70mph if I can get the power down :p I am still waiting on some gearbox parts before I risk running it on that sort of voltage though. The motor I'm using is bigger than a standard 1:10 brushless motor, and is the sort used in Emaxx's and the like.

That was a brilliant video, looks like great fun, crazy stuff. I need to build me a ramp that big for my GT :) How many bits did you break on the GT's while filming that?

BTE214

08-06-2006, 02:53 AM

Unless you plan on crashing into stuff the T4 would be fine. Pretty much same drivetrain. The only differance really is the gt has a metal chasis. I own them both and take the T4 through the same stuff as the gt (granted it weighs less) and I have never broken a part.

Rtsbasic

08-06-2006, 04:21 AM

Aussie RC10GT

08-06-2006, 07:09 PM

I have briefly owned a T4 and had no end of breakage problems, the drivetrain is spot on but the chassis design is very weak, as is the extra-long wishbone design. Its a brilliant car but not for taking punishment.

Why don't you look for a T2 then? I'm sure you'll find one on eBay no porblems! T2 and GT are very similar and the T2 has aluminum tub chassis too! what more do you need?

conversion cars never are as good as a purpose built even buggies come truggies aren't the best............

I once converted my RC10 Worlds car to nitro .............. what a mistake LOL I wish I never did that :(

Rtsbasic

08-06-2006, 07:32 PM

Good suggestion, actually, I ran a T2 for over a year, and it was an excellent car for what I did. With a few parts from RPM and a few custom bits out of Lexan & nylon fitted I never broke anything major, even when I tried to by sending it up big ramps at 50mph+. However a friend of mine who has very bad luck with RC was looking for a car that would be pretty idiot proof, so I agreed to sell it to him. In 3yrs of the hobby its the 1st time his had a car that doesn't break every 4th run :)

At the end of the day, I already had the GT around as a box of peices, I won it in a game of pool :D So inital cost was nothing, I already have the electronics, all I need are a couple of bits for the gearbox..so what do I stand to loose by trying? Nothing. What do I stand to gain? A cool bashing car with over the top insane power. Its fun to experiment with new things anyway.

An RC10 as a nitro..never seen one of them, I would be curious if you had any pics of it? Must have been pretty..unique :)

Aussie RC10GT

08-06-2006, 07:52 PM

Rtsbasic

08-07-2006, 05:14 AM

Hehe I never play on a pool table without a wager on the game. If your ever in my local pub we'll have a game :)

Thanks for your support :) Shame about the RC10, they are worth a bit now, but its only money, at least you had a bit of fun trying, even if the end result wasn't very good. Couldn't have been worse than when a friend of mine tried to make a TL01 nitro :)

Aussie RC10GT

08-07-2006, 08:53 AM

Hehe I never play on a pool table without a wager on the game. If your ever in my local pub we'll have a game :)

Britan????? Maybe next year on my way to Greece ;)
Say I was lookin to get a ferrari and seems as though britan has em at good prices and they're right hand drive I could save a bit but hey it'll be a little while till those cards are on the table again :(

Thanks for your support :)

yeahs thats cool Im open minded man no use being one track minded gets you no where and nothing

Shame about the RC10, they are worth a bit now, but its only money, at least you had a bit of fun trying, even if the end result wasn't very good. Couldn't have been worse than when a friend of mine tried to make a TL01 nitro :)

LOL Shame is not the word ........... Not even money really I just miss the car and can't find another for the life of me????? ah well

for the record it was a fun car and extremely fast but handling was a thing of the past LOL

slaf

08-07-2006, 10:39 AM

HI guys !

Which rotostart back plate will fit the stock AE .15 engine ?

Thanks

Aussie RC10GT

08-07-2006, 06:57 PM

HI guys !

Which rotostart back plate will fit the stock AE .15 engine ?

Thanks

not too sure do they list one for thunder tiger motors? that would be the one to go for I'm sure!

I have the duratrax one and I'm not a big fan of it can't beat a bump box!

peow130

08-11-2006, 01:06 AM

:D :D :D Yeah today i bought a bunch of stuff for my GT...
Upgraded to CVD's
I got a new gas tank... (old one got cracked from landing upside down on rocks)
New Airfilter...
Tommorrow i gotta go back and get a new antenna for my reciever seeing as how i rolled my gt and ripped mine clean out..
And a glow igniter wire for a traxxis stampede EZ start.. lol...
I rolled that too and shredded it LOL..
>.< fun stuff... I wish my parents didnt destroy my RC car track and turn it into a garden again... Good times in that track *sigh* i broke in my gt on that.. i broke my gt on that track.. broke in my stampede on it... good times.. i also bent my chassis on that track :D :D :D

peow130

08-11-2006, 01:36 AM

oh... btw.. How do i add another RC car to my JR racing radio? i have the xr2i model and someone in an earlier post said it could hold 2 models...
I only had 1 truck at the time and now i have 2 so it would be nice to use my radio for the stampede and the GT

slowtc4man

08-14-2006, 11:08 PM

What is the trick to widing the front and rear of the rc10gt? I have not figured it out yet.
Chris
C&K BODZ

Aussie RC10GT

08-14-2006, 11:17 PM

What is the trick to widing the front and rear of the rc10gt? I have not figured it out yet.
Chris
C&K BODZ

http://www.baysidehobby.com/gt-widening.htm

doesgo

08-14-2006, 11:29 PM

Do you need all those parts? What does the Associated RC10GT Wide Front Axle - #7222 (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=57_99&products_id=885) do alone?

J_Bone

08-15-2006, 11:26 PM

I like the T4 kit better than the axels. IT seems to have better steering and handle better.

offroadcrazy01

08-19-2006, 08:45 PM

why does the new gt look like a ad2 what is that about what to you guys think

Bunsincunsin

08-20-2006, 12:55 PM

I think Associated wanted to incorperate a radio box into the truck to look a little cleaner, and probably took some designs from the Losi.

They do indeed look very similar.

Here is what I ordered last night from Tower Hobbies for my GT!

DuraTrax Bearing Set RC10ST/GT/Team
Associated Stealth Torque Control Spring & Locknut
Associated Spur Gear 32P 66T
Associated Drive Shaft Roll Pin
Associated Brake Disc Fiber
Associated Factory Team Brake Hub Blue RC10GT/NDS
Dubro Locknuts 8-32
Associated T-Nut/Thrust Bolt
Dubro Nitro Line Blue 2'
Pro-Line Pro-95 M2 Edge Front 2.2" (2)
Pro-Line 2.2 Rear M2 Truck Bowtie Tire (2)
Associated Rear Truck Wheel Yellow (2)
Associated Truck Wheel Yellow (2)
Associated Front Wheel Locknuts 4-40

Now all I need is a new chassis, shock kit(front/rear), CVD's, pull-start, and a body.

Bunsincunsin

08-20-2006, 03:43 PM

What kind of charger would I use with this reciever pack?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMEY1&P=0

Will this charger work?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHCF1&P=7

J_Bone

08-21-2006, 10:47 PM

The only thing that looks like the Losi is the fact that it has a double chassis. The Radio tray is from the TC3 and comes off very easy.

sportmanclass

08-24-2006, 10:39 PM

what is happening is it returns to idle but when you hit the brakes it pushes the carb arm so where it closes the carb off you did to adjust the arm on the carb so when you push the brakes it will not close the carb

sportmanclass

08-26-2006, 03:47 PM

should have one in the kit polk but if not i have one

Bunsincunsin

08-26-2006, 04:13 PM

How can I get the flywheel off of the engine? It's stuck on there pretty good and it won't budge......Any Ideas?

Also I looked at the engine and inside there is a lot of gunk and some rust. So I am going to open it up to clean it and inspect for further damage. I will most likely get a new engine anyways since this one seems like it doesn't have very good compression.

Bunsincunsin

08-26-2006, 06:21 PM

Here are some pics of what I am talking about.....

Some wear on the piston, it actually looks to be skratched or gouged from something.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e87/Bunsincunsin/DSC02009.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e87/Bunsincunsin/DSC02013.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e87/Bunsincunsin/DSC02017.jpg

And my GT in its current state:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e87/Bunsincunsin/DSC02025.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e87/Bunsincunsin/DSC02027.jpg

J_Bone

08-27-2006, 02:06 AM

Holy cow that engine looks horrible!!!

I use a pulley to remove the flywheels.

Bunsincunsin

08-27-2006, 01:04 PM

Well, I used a wheel puller to get the flywheel off, so that is taken care of.

And I soked the engine in a paint thinner/remover type of stuff. It got some rust off but there is still quite a bit on there.

Bunsincunsin

08-28-2006, 07:24 PM

I got the engine pretty clean and the engine block itself looks like it is brand new now. I also oiled all of the internals with old nitro and it seems to turn over very smooth compared to before.

I just need to get a few more parts and then I can fire this bad boy up!

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e87/Bunsincunsin/DSC02044.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e87/Bunsincunsin/DSC02045.jpg

Radio Acer

09-08-2006, 08:55 PM

Thought I'd share a pic of my Factory GT before it's first race when it's all nice and clean. It's just a rattle can job, i can't do anything fancy, but let me know what ya think.
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n76/kazam58/IMGP0466.jpg

doesgo

09-08-2006, 09:17 PM

Nice job! Definitely not the same old thing. I'd open up the left-side windshield to be one large hole rather than several smaller ones, however. It'll flow MUCH more air. What do you have for an engine?

Radio Acer

09-08-2006, 10:39 PM

Thanx! We opened up the front windsheild on my first truck, a Nitro Rush, which i still have, and then tried doing this multiple hole thing and found that the engine didn't run hotter, and this way the body survives longer when it's upside down too. You rarely hit top-speed at the track we race, and if you do, it's a quick blip to get it over a jump, so cooling wasn't a big issue.
The motor's an O.S. .12 cv-r. I really like it right now. Twice as powerful as my .15 cv-x. It's quite new though so you have to let it warm up so that it doesn't stall out on the grid when you punch the throttle :rolleyes:
I'll see if i can get some action shots this weekend (if it doesn't rain)

doesgo

09-08-2006, 10:42 PM

Sounds great. Yeah, the old .12CV-R is STILL a great engine. Cheap, reliable, powerful, holds a tune....hard to beat!

mc_knijver

09-13-2006, 03:52 AM

offroadcrazy01

09-30-2006, 05:01 PM

use shock limiters in the rear shocks to stop the rear cvds from coming out .check out http://users.pandora.be/elvo/ look at the suspension section,Sorry I thouhgt somebody asked about shocks

Bugdozer

10-07-2006, 10:37 AM

I've got a question about the RPM rear A-arm

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/new3/RPM-R-arms.jpg

Is this the right way to mount them because now the A-arm on the right side has the L on it, or can we flip them around so you can choose between long and short wheelbase, and the hinge pins are to long for the bearing carrier side does that matter or not.

Thanks,

Frans

Hi, New Guy here!

The RPM arms were originally made for the RC10-T/T2 where the shocks mount on the front of the A-arms. On the GT, the shocks mount on the rear so you flip them left-to-right. I just added a spacer to make up for the extra length of the hinge pin.