Associated RC10GT Forum v8.0

[Polk]

Hey

I got me a little problem...My engine Idles fine but when I come in from WOT and slam on the brakes it cuts out, becuase the idle is to low, but when i just ease off the throttle the idle is good, hit the brakes and it goes lower...Ive tryed adjusting the idle but that just makes it idle higher when I Dont hit the brakes!!!

Arghh! Help?

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
......get my letter yet?

You can call me ray . .
you can call me jay . . .
you can call me satchmo . . .
you can call me Rosanne Barr or A**hole . . . .



but DON'T call me billy.

:D

Heh.

Ayuh, tonight, thanks! We're putting it all in the scrapbook. What's the "surprise"? :D


[B]Polk:[B] Have you fiddled a bit with the low speed needle yet (if you have one)? VERY TINY INCREMENTS - it's quite touchy. When's last time you put in a new plug?

[MonsterBlazer#1]

Polk.
you said yu made a new carby arm. is that letting in air ..etc in any way.
also try richening the low end.
in like 1/8th turn intervals.


Bill.
i aint got tha shock thingies yet and i need em:(
o well they shud b here tomorrow.

[rocknbil]

Ayuh, sent 'em last Tues, airmail, cost me a whole 95 cents! There goes the porsche payment . . . :D

[Railman]

Polk,
Double check the nut that holds the throttle arm on the carb. It may be slipping just enough to cause it to be inconsistent. If it was ok before the new arm, it's a good bet. If the original arm was plastic, & is now metal, the servo end points may also need to be tweaked, so as not to overload the carb's throttle arm. The palsic ones have some give, but the metal ones don't.

If it's not the arm slipping, the idle screw may be partially stripped. If it feels loose, oir wobbly, put a little locktite on the threads, insert it, remove it, let it cure while out, & then reinstall it. It works fairly well.
Joe

[Polk]

Okay...

Right im looking at my carb. I go WOT and it opens fully. Release the trigger and it goes doewn to an idle gap, then I hit the brakes and the carb goes "CLICK" and the idle goes down more. No matter WHAT I fiddle with I cant get it to stop doing this!!!

I removed my idle screw and it looks fine..


Garrrrrrrrrrrgh!


Ill go try the threadlock thing now

[1tuffRC10]

Polk, think new carb. :(

[Railman]

Polk,
It sounds like your putting too much pressure on the throttle arm at the brake position. The pop noise is probably the idle screw slipping in the carb housing threads. Is the spring (pen type) on the throttle linkage bottoming out? If so, you need to redo the stops, or use a longer spring. A picture or two would help to trouble shoot.
Joe

[dog8spam]

Have you tore down a carb before? If you havnt I would completely dissasemble it so you can see exactly how it works so you can fix the problem.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

www.newcarbforpolk.com.nz :D

[MonsterBlazer#1]

Bil. its now thursday and i aint got it.
i aint blamin u, i was also supposed to recieve a letter from usa thatwas send the day before u sent my thingies,

bloody aussy post office,:mad:

[Polk]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Have you tore down a carb before? If you havnt I would completely dissasemble it so you can see exactly how it works so you can fix the problem.

Im in the middle of tearing down my carb now. Ive done it heaps before but so far, I dont see a problem...:(

P.S Monsterblazer...its .CO.nz :D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
.....i aint blamin u......

You better not, cause if you do and it gets lost I won't send you four more.

:D Heh. It's a 4 X 7 padded manilia, the size of an envelope . . . hey Polk 'bout how long did my packages take to get to you in NZ?

[Polk]

Gaaaah........'bout a week...max.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

HELP!.

when i accelerate my gt vears offto the right heaps...

i duno whats wrong...:eek:

[nitrodude_1]

yo how much you guys think my stock rc10gt is worth it has a couple factory team parts mostly stock has a xp.15 engine all new tranny new bearings just need 2 engine parts that are 6.00 and electronics

[MonsterBlazer#1]

.02:D

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
when i accelerate my gt vears offto the right heaps...

When you accelerate hard, just in a coast, or even when you go at a medium speed half-coast?

Mmm. Well I'd loft it in the air and hold the spur so it doesn't move and spin one rear wheel, the opposite wheel should spin in the OPPOSITE direction and it should have a smool feel to it . . if it doesn't or if it has a "gritty" feel to it, you need to rebuild the diff, which may only consist of replacing the diff rings and maybe the balls, or it could mean a few gears too . . . . if that checks hold one wheel AND the spur so they can't turn, then try to turn the other wheel. If the wheel turns freely, the diff has loosened up, tighten it . . . if that checks pop the rear camber link, remove dogbones, with the wheel ON see if both wheels spin free . . . . check . . . if that doesn't work I'm not sure what I'd do next, what's your suspension like?

[MonsterBlazer#1]

nup.
my diff it tight and backed off 1/8th turn as it says in manual
dif is smooth as, and the truck is brand new.

[RC10's]

The reason the truck does it is one tire is getting more power then the other and its pulling the whole truck in that direction. The first thing I would do is check the diff, even if its new. If you have some time and some money I would HIGHLY reccomend the Robinson Racing aluminum diff gear, with the MIP rebuild kit and some new outdrives, this will make your diff about indestructible. Then make sure your CVDs or dogbones, whichever you have, are no binding anywhere and that neither tire is on too tight. The final thing to consider would be the slipper, you could loosen it up a little so you dont get 100% power blasting through the tranny. Good luck

[Polk]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
HELP!.

when i accelerate my gt vears offto the right heaps...

i duno whats wrong...:eek:

Um......Anyone suggested resetting the front wheels on the servo to make sure there straight??? :D

[MonsterBlazer#1]

Polk yes it is set corectly thanks to mr Ko Propo :D:D:D

and rc10 u ust soldeved it, evey time i run my gt i dissasemble it and clean it etc and yesterday i think it was vearing right now its vearing left. must be me tightening the hubs too much on one side..
thanks!

[MonsterBlazer#1]

dus n e 1 know what size the bears are that are in the stok rear carriers ?
i think theyre the same as the ones on the stok inine front axels aswel?

[MonsterBlazer#1]

can sum kind generous considerate person give me a link to the metal carblever/arm for my ae.15 from tower hobbies
thanks a bunch
i cant find it....

[fuzzy2133]

Here Is the whole Carb (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUP67&P=Z)

And this is the single parts for the carb (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0005p?&I=ASCG2915&P=Z)

[Polk]

Hey
Can someone give me the link for the ofna throttle linkage that can be used on the GT?

Thanks!

[morfracerX]

try the losi linkage it works well for me on my gt no ball

[morfracerX]

My spur gear keeps on going out on me why!!!!!!!!!!! in the main at that the gear mash is not two close got a new motor mount maybe I need a new chassis it's about two years old anybody else with this same thing going on with there truck if so how did you fix it oh and yes I do have a trinity brace thats about three years old

[MonsterBlazer#1]

thanks fuzzy.!!!!!:D:D

morfracer-
u mean its stripping?

its its stripping loosen your slipper a bit....
also what spur+clutch bell have u got mounted?

[morfracerX]

Yes my spur gear keeps stipping I'm running a mip clutch,my slipper is a 1/4 turn out.The bell I run is 16 tooth bell and a 65 tooth spur gear this is the third one some one please help

[Polk]

Okay, So heres my tower order, anything else you guys think I should get?

Associated Servo Savers*
Associated Inline Steering Blocks (2)*
Associated Throttle Pivot Clip
Associated Turnbuckle 2.620" Truck*
Associated Socket Head Cap Screw 4-40x7/8"
Associated Differential Gear Gas Truck*
Associated Stealth Idler Shaft & Gear*
Associated Stealth Drive Gear Shaft Assembly*

And from ebay:

Front wheels
Rear shock tower*
Bearings
Mainfold (non P/S)


Things marked * are spares (im stocking up for xmas..)


:D

P.S
Still waiting on someone to find me the ofna throttle linkage for the GT! :)

[atm92484_3]

Polk, would these be the linkages you are talking about?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=ofna+linkage&FVPROFIL=++

[Polk]

Is this the one that will work on the GT and give smoother operation??
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBM06&P=7

Thanks!

[atm92484_3]

Thats the one I'm using. I found that you need to cut a few coils off of the spring though to shorten/soften it since there isn't a huge distance between the servo and the carb.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

thanks BILL
got the colets today............*** is wrong with auspost?
2 weeks for a simple letter....hmm...

[dagoson]

I can start up my truck and it runs great but once it is off it stays off I can pull and pull and it wont start if i let it set for 10-15 min and try it will start :confused: tried new glow plugs

[MonsterBlazer#1]

sounds to me like its ur warmer...
ever time u use it to start it the bats gets drained...after a while the cells start to recharge themselves a little and equalise..kinda geetting a little more power...to put it VERY simply..
so yea..get a now batry...

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
Is this the one that will work on the GT and give smoother operation?? ...

Polk that looks like it and you will like it. NP M.B., glad it made it.

BTW a collet is the cone-shaped thingy that locks the fltywheel from spinning; as for those, I still say they're ride height clamps. :D

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by morfracerX
Yes my spur gear keeps stipping I'm running a mip clutch,my slipper is a 1/4 turn out.The bell I run is 16 tooth bell and a 65 tooth spur gear this is the third one some one please help

[MonsterBlazer#1]

loosen ur diff a little and ur slipper a little
maybe u should try rebuilding ur diff....im puzzled if that dont do it..just try what i said and let us know mate..

..good luck!

[Railman]

morfracer,
Most spur gear problems are caused by either chassis flex, or motor movement. Both can be greatly reduced if you use locktite on the screws, & also the mount surfaces. Use red on the mounts, & blue on the screws, or all red & use a solder iron to break the locktite down when you need to remove the screws. Heating the screws for about 8 seconds will break down the red on the screws. The other factors that strip spurs are poor mesh, blown clutch bearings, too much heat in the clutch bell, reving the motor while holding the truck still, landing from jumps under full power, & gravel in the gear teeth.

As far as the diff is concerned...do not loosen the diff! You should never slip the diff for any reason. It will cause a meltdown. Follow the manual closely on it's settings. If you feel the need to use the slipper, use the slipper. Personally, I run mine tight, & get at least a couple gallons on each spur, & even then only change as a matter of preventive maintainance. My last spur that went bad (only partially) was a result of gravel jambed in the bell teeth.
Hope this helps.
Joe

[morfracerX]

I found this on a.e. web site jumping my RC10GT I stripped out my spur gear. I was talking to some of the other racers and they said that it was tub chassis flex that stripped out the spur gear.
I have never heard of anyone stripping a spur gear while jumping. I have heard of people stripping the gear when landing or under hard acceleration from a standing start. Both of these problems are caused by other problems. The first problem is simple to solve. Do not land with your finger on the trigger. If you have the throttle applied when you land you are taking a definite chance at stripping the spur gear. The force of the car landing with power applied and then having the back wheels stop spinning if the rear suspension bottoms out will almost always strip a spur gear.
The second problem has a couple of areas that can cause unnecessary spur gear damage. The first is having too much clutch shoe on the engine. If you are on a high traction surface with too much clutch shoe, the torque of the engine will twist the chassis back before the car can start to accelerate. If the gear mesh is not set correctly it is possible to strip out a gear when the gear mesh begins to open up. This is why we recommend cutting off 1 ½ of the small holes on the clutch shoe length so that the clutch will engage correctly without causing this problem. The second problem is one that just takes time to get correct. I see a lot of gas trucks and I would say that at least 60 percent of the cars I see do not have the gear mesh set correctly. You want the gears to be as close as possible but not so close that they can bind. The best way to check this is to take your small finger and use it to rock the spur gear back and forth in the clutch bell (using only light pressure). The gear should be able to move just a small amount without moving the clutch bell. Do not hold the clutch bell. If you do these things then you should not have a problem.
thank you railmail I knew you come along!!!!!!!!almost won my first A main maybe next time with your and ae's help I can get it done

[Strike 4]

I recently got a used GT off of eBay with OS CV and I can't seem to get it to hold together. I am embarrassed posting this but I can't keep it from breaking I know it can't be my driving after watching some slapmafro videos. I broke it all I can't even remember it all but I never completed a race to this date:( . I tried to remain loyal to AE and decided I need a new car I live in Losi territory and I know a friend who has an AWESOME deal on a drake.
So here are my options I can get a drake and keep the GT (may collect dust) or I can get another GT and use the old one for spares. The sad part is I have bought every RPM upgrade out there from the wide bumper to RX box and arms. It also came with some goofy chassis I can't remember the name but it had light in it here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3143116970&category=44029&rd=1) is the link so you can see my setup. Now the engine is craping out on me it is near blown and I can't get the LS tuned I have no idea why I am a noob to .12 but not to nitro any ideas? I tryed to remain loyal to AE but this is jerking my threads...

[dog8spam]

Ive had a GT for some years now, it will go in and out. When I first got mine I had all kinds of problems. Youll learn more the longer you have it. As far as the OS CV I have been having the roughest time with mine. It runs sometime it runs hot even when my ear tells me its running rich and it wont idle. Ive done everything I can besides the clutch shoes, still waiting for them to come in. Even rebuilt the engine and carb twice. Its about five years old so I think its about time for a new engine. Might be what your engine has, whatever it is.

[offroadcrazy01]

Your gt needs alot of upgrades if you want to race what keeps breaking I had that same chassis cost me 45.00 to upgrade to a new chassis and and now it's time for a new one looks like you needs shocks they dont cost that much 14.00 a MIP Zero Maintenance Steering Upgrade Kit RC10GT 21.99 the rpm arm flex you might want to go back to the a.e. arm's OR go with the drake all sell that gt on e-bay all trucks are going to have there problems even if you go with the drake the diff's blow if they are not set just right also they brake alot I think it's just best to stick with one and just take it one problem at a time P.S. two trucks cost a of money to keep with LXAX14,LXAX63,LXUX82, Good Luck hope this helps the number are part number off towwerhobbies.com

[offroadcrazy01]

Sounds like your cv has had it 5 years wow!!!!!!!check this part nuwber out on towwerhobbies.com LXALM4 os-tr 99.99 I have it and love it or you can get a cv for 74.99 LXBZ14 good luck

[Strike 4]

No I don't belive it is a tub chassis he said it was some racing brand it is more big and stiff than the new FT one. Well I took it to the track today and I got the engine working I spent a while tunning. Now my brake pad sees to be broken so I need to get another one tommorow but besides that and some lost screws it was the better it had ever ran before. I am pretty happy with the car now that it ran so I am not going to buy another one, personally I can't wait for race day. I also may get the piston resized and get a Cresenzi brake system this week...

Thanks for the help I will let you know how it goes, Strike 4

[joke_one]

ok does anybody know if AE is gonna put the new developments from the T4 into a new GT like the front shock towers, the co-planar steering, and other things like that???

[dagoson]

ok I got my digi cam at wal mart for 30 bucks but no prob, anyway I broke a connecting rod in my motor and I bought this truck from someone and dont remember what motor this is it says VX-12 on the side does anyone know what motor this is?

[fasteddie9111]

hey,
Does anyone know of the negative effects of running the suspension arms or cvd's below level? Any effects such as bad suspension geometry(considering there is good amount of compression left), or maybe less power output or wear on the cvd's? Thanks.

[nitrodude_1]

my rc10gt is still for sale 125shipped us I also live in canada and were I live we don't have a walmart, zellers, costco, target we gust got a london drugs and a canadian tire but they are a 1hour drive from each other

[fasteddie9111]

hey,
Does anyone know of the negative effects of running the suspension arms or cvd's below level? Any effects such as bad suspension geometry(considering there is good amount of compression left), or maybe less power output or wear on the cvd's? Thanks.

[atm92484_3]

The main thing will be a little more wear on the CVD bones and outdrives.

[offroadcrazy01]

.5 Ride height
Proper ride height is very important, too low and the vehicle will bottom out a lot, too high and the risk of traction rolling will be unnecessarily big. Equal ride height front and rear is a good starting point. Raising or lowering ride height on one end of the car changes the steering characteristics of the car, the lowest end will have a slightly bigger percentage of the cars static weight. But, more importantly, the roll center will also be lowered, making that particular end of the car roll deeper when the car corners, making it sit even lower and thus having more grip.
You should also be aware that changes in ride height usually influence the amount of down-travel too,also your car will not jump as well with the rear below cvd level check this site out http://users.pandora.be/elvo/

[offroadcrazy01]

Why did a.e put out a new chassis what's the diffrence how will it change performance the old chassis length is 357mm,width129mm,thickness2.5mm

[atm92484_3]

The new chassis is 1/4" longer and with the way its designed, its much more rigid and it fixed the problem of the gear mesh opening up under hard acceleration with a powerful .12.

[fasteddie9111]

hey thanks for replying, i didn't realize i double posted. Well i ask since i usually drive onroad, i dont really go offroad anymore. thanks.

[offroadcrazy01]

I bought my chassis yesterday is the new chassis part number 7769 also is this chassis 3mm or 2.5mm thick does any body know!!!!!!!!

[MonsterBlazer#1]

pretty sure its 3mm

hey..i was rebuilding my shocks and in them was these little spacers....(i got my gt with aftermarket already assembled team shocks) the spacers dont allow as much down travel for the wheels but when i consulted the instruction manual it didnt say to put them in...so i just forgot them and put them asside..now i think i have to put them back inkoz my rear arms sit way to low..as with the front..

[offroadcrazy01]

I use those too other wise my cvd's come out on big jumps or if my back end lands wrong too many times dont use to many or you will break your battery holder I think just one of the black a.e. shock limiters on each side in the back is cool,also they cause the chassis to bend a little more if you just use them in the back maybe I will try to put some small ones in the front too I killed too many spur gears

[offroadcrazy01]

Suspension travel
The amount of negative suspension travel (downtravel) a car has can have a huge effect on its handling; it influences both the mount of roll and the amount of pitch the chassis will experience.

In this animation we see a car with a lot of downtravel as the chassis rolls into a turn. The chassis is free to roll, and the height of the CG doesn't change very much.

In this animation we see a car with almost no downtravel as it rolls into a turn. The chassis is pulled down as it rolls, effectively lowering the CG.

So, if one end of the car has less downtravel than the other, that end will be forced down more in a turn, which makes for more grip at that end, especially in the middle part of the turn, where weight transfer is more pronounced. Very little downtravel at the front will give a lot of steering, especially when entering a corner at high speed, or very violently. Very little downtravel at the rear will give a lot, and consistent traction throughout the turn.
But that isn't all there is to it: the amount of suspension travel also influences the car's longitudinal balance, i.e. when braking and accelerating. An end with a lot of downtravel will be able to rise a lot, so chassis pitch will be more pronounced, which in turn will provide more weight transfer. For example: if the front end has a lot of downtravel, it will rise a lot during hard acceleration, transferring a lot of weight onto the rear axle. So the car will have very little on-power steering, but a lot of rear traction. A lot of downtravel at both ends, combined with soft springs, can lead to excessive weight transfer: on-power understeer, and off-power oversteer. The cure is simple: either reduce downtravel, or use stiffer springs.
There are also some disadvantages of having very little suspension travel: the bump handling and the car's jumping ability may suffer, it will bottom out very easily.
Limiting suspension droop has another interesting effect: you can use it to reduce traction rolling. (When the car flips over because it has too much traction.) As you can see from the two animations above, a car with less droop will have a lower CG as it turns, which is exactly what you need in an eternal struggle against traction rolls. Often it's a better solution than using stiffer springs and harder tires, it's even beter than reducing ride height or adding anti

[dog8spam]

What about running front shocks all around? It would lower the CG alot and have less down travel. I have a CAD drawing of a shock tower low enough for it, I just never cut it out.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

I have a CAD drawing of a shock tower low enough for it, I just never cut it out.

what?:confused:

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
.....In this animation we see.....

^^ The down-side of copy=paste. :D

Blazer the shock limiters limit the travel, but if you're sitting low why don't you just slide the spring clamps downward on the shock body?

[nitrodude_1]

k guys how much you think my rc10gt is worth

it is a stock gt with thue reverse fill gas tank and factory team blue shock caps. comes with hpi wheels and masher 2000's. shocks have just been rebuilt same with tranny all new. comes with a couple spare parts and manuals. and a xp.15 engine that need $6.00 of love

[dog8spam]

what?
Cut it out on a CNC machine.

[Railman]

fasteddie,
Try using the RPM 1/2" hub carriers with the 1/2" x 3/16" bearings, & set the front end up with the t3 spindles. That will lower your chassis height by about 1/4", without changing either arm angle. Try here for more info on parts, & setup:http://www.rc10gthobby.com/custrides.htm
Myst (Jodie) runs his GT's that way even on offroad, as does Dave Crescenzie on his onroad setups (sp?)
Joe

[toolcity-racer]

I have built a new stealth and rebuilt one on a gt plus kit and the cases on the bottom have a small slit that exposes the gears to dirt . is this there for a reason or is it just coincidence that these two cases have the same problem. I have got to beleive this has been seen before . what do you think.

In the photo i placed the old half next to the new one and there are almost identical in pattern.

[Railman]

toolcity racer,
They all look like that. I just rtv them before installing in chassis. I don't really know why they are made that way, other than the case is very thin at that point, so as to keep the tranny as low as possible.
Joe

[offroadcrazy01]

Any body use mip shock shafts before.If so are they any good the guy at my LHS said when the gold turns to silver it's time for a new pair of shafts.With the a.e. shafts how do you know when you need a new pair of shock shafts

[nitrodude_1]

will anybody help me and tell me what my gt is worth and also it is for sale if anybody wants to buy it really good condition 6 months old also offroad they don't make a diffrence if you want something that makes a diffrence then get the losi shocks. also if you want I will include the rpm rear/front a-arms, bell crank, and a couple other parts I ned to sell but the rpm stuff is more

[fasteddie9111]

thanks railman,
but just to verify, were you talking about the caster blocks or the steering arms? Also, how is the rpm hub carriers different from the stock ones and how will it lower the chassis? Thanks.

[Railman]

fasteddie,
If you use the T3 castor block, along with the T3 kingpin, you'll be able to lower the chassis front. It will also lengthen the camber link, which results in less camber change as the supension is compressed, keeping the tire flatter thru the turn, resulting in more roll resistance.

The RPM 1/2" rear hub carrier shifts the outer hinge pin (at hub carrier) upward about 1/4", resulting in a lower chassis height, with the arms staying at the same angle.
Check out the GT setup thread started by Myst.

edit: also try this: http://www.rc10gthobby.com/forum/upload/index.php?act=ST&f=4&t=13&

Joe

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by toolcity-racer
...the cases on the bottom have a small slit that exposes the gears to dirt...

Actually that slit is flush against the chassis when it's installed and it's unlikely any dirt can get in there. It's there to allow any water (if you dunk it) or oil (if you overlube the balls) to drain out.

[Polk]

Ah, Forum's started again......

Anyone got the instructions on how to set-up the Ofna Throttle Linkage??

Thanks!

[toolcity-racer]

thanks railman and rocknbil for the input. I had built ball diffs for a ntc3 and never noticed them but these on the rc10 just looked too much the same. but i will tell you when you wash the dirt off after running or wash and use an air compressor to finnish cleaning the truck it does have the chance of exposing the inner bearings to cleaning fluids and dirt. it is just the right excuse to tear down the diff and inspect the inside more often. anyway thanks again.

[fasteddie9111]

railman,
the lowest degree block i see is 25, do the t3 caster blocks come in any smaller degree sizes? thanks.

[xpressgt]

Originally posted by Polk
Ah, Forum's started again......

Anyone got the instructions on how to set-up the Ofna Throttle Linkage??

Thanks!

Hey Polkhope this helps

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/86414/3.jpg

[MonsterBlazer#1]

xressgt..

how do u make ur images small enough in size to fit and still be clear??????

[Strike 4]

Here is an update on my progress: Well I have not fixed the brakes and decided to get Crescenzi's brake system; however, they are out of stock:( . So now I am waiting and got UN patient and ran with no brakes at the track even let some top drivers give it a try. Get this they both owned Losi's and I had to fight to get the controller back:p . They said the traction was ok and I felt they were too heavy on the throttle off jumps; nervous I yanked the controller and tried it. OOPS a little too heavy I knocked my engine off and screws don't seem to tighten back down well any ideas?

[nitrodude_1]

welp I need to sell my gt really bad becasue I need to buy these parts for my new gt here are the parts I ordered
RPM
DELRIN SHOCK PIVOT BALLS
ONE PIECE BELLCRANK CENTER LINK
HEAVY DUTY ROD ENDS (12) 4-40 (BLACK)
FRONT A-ARMS - BLACK
CARRIERS & 1/4" x 1/2" BEARINGS
RC10GT REAR A-ARMS - BLACK
REAR BULKHEAD - BLACK
RC10GT ZERO DEGREE REAR MOUNT
MINI BUMPER SKID PLATE - BLACK
ADJUSTIBLE WIDTH BODY MOUNT - BLACK
GPM
TITANIUM VENTED TURBO SLOTED BRAKE
BLUE EXTENEDED REAR TRANNY BRACE


and a couple other thing I just bought a factory team gt

[xpressgt]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
xressgt..

how do u make ur images small enough in size to fit and still be clear??????

make sure when you take your picture its on the right pixel

[MonsterBlazer#1]

??

[mississippi]

Will losi rear rims fit on the back of my GT? I just need them to break in an engine, so I dont care about suspension geometry or anything, I just need to know if they will bolt up.

Thanks

[tarvymoto]

Is AE going to put out a GT-4?

[atm92484_3]

Mississippi, they will fit but the truck's width will be different.

Tarvy, AE hasn't said anything official yet, but considering the rest of the RC10 line-up just got upgraded, I think the GT is next (I doubt it will be called the GT4 though since Yokomo has already taken that name).

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by xpressgt
Hey Polk hope this helps ... That's it! 'Cept I like to run my brake link under the throttle one if you can do it without hitting the servo.

how do u make ur images small enough in size to fit and still be clear?

The size limitation here is 60K. Best of all is to open it in a graphics editing program, like Photoshop, in RGB mode (not bitmap or indexed color,) and resize the image. When you save it, choose a lower file size jpg compression. If you expirament with it you can get quite a bit into 60K.

[hoytshooter]

Hey xpressgt, how do you like that OS12TR in your GT? I am running a cvr now but I could use a little more power to get through a rythem section at the track I race at. OS markets that engine as an onroad, but it seems like it should work great in a GT.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by mississippi
Will losi rear rims fit on the back of my GT?...

If you have 3/16" axles, yes. The cross-pin slots are a little smaller so you may have to do a little "convincing" but they'll work. If you have 1/4" axles, you'll have to drill the rims out.

[xpressgt]

Originally posted by hoytshooter
Hey xpressgt, how do you like that OS12TR in your GT? I am running a cvr now but I could use a little more power to get through a rythem section at the track I race at. OS markets that engine as an onroad, but it seems like it should work great in a GT.

it has a nice power band and runs very smooth i had the cvr befor i have to say that the TR is much smother from idel to top end

[nitrodude_1]

hoytshoot if you want a awsome engine that is cheap the sirio .12 roar legal engine is the way to go extrem power.

[offroadcrazy01]

The os-tr is a great engine nice power and always starts and like all os engines easy to tune and what a great deal towwerhobbies has on it 100.00 bucks mine runs great

[offroadcrazy01]

mip shock shafts
Any body use mip shock shafts before.If so are they any good the guy at my LHS said when the gold turns to silver it's time for a new pair of shafts.With the a.e. shafts how do you know when you need a new pair of shock shafts

[dog8spam]

Is AE going to put out a GT-4?
Id say itll be awhile since they havent even made a GT2
Personally I hope they dont come up with a whole new car. Itll just be nice to have a few suspention upgrades.

expressgt
Why did you cut the flange off your chassis right by the spur gear!? Thats why the blacktub was replaced, because it was weak and flexed easily there causing the spur gear to strip. It does look cool without the anodizing though.

[xpressgt]

Originally posted by dog8spam

expressgt
Why did you cut the flange off your chassis right by the spur gear!? Thats why the blacktub was replaced, because it was weak and flexed easily there causing the spur gear to strip. It does look cool without the anodizing though.

i didnt its a teambluestar chassi so it came like that its much ticker then the stock one so i dont have problum with flexing

[MonsterBlazer#1]

how mucha re those piggy back thigns for the shocks and whats there official name........can i get them @ tower? and are they worth it??also what effects do they have?

[Strike 4]

Here (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=PS1001P) they are. There suposed to give a more smooth feel and there are fewer rebuilds involved.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

thanks mate ill get sum soon.

[snowkd]

i was thinking of geting into gas trucks and i have been looking at the rc10 gt plus rtr. i was wandering how fast it goes (stock of course) and if it is a good biginner truck.

snowkd

[Polk]

Its a great truck (hey, what more can I say..:D)

And it goes about 30mph stock!

[snowkd]

polk
thanks!!!:D

[snowkd]

does anyone know of a website that has videos of the rc10 gt box stock?:confused:

[rocknbil]

Videos of the box? Have you been to teamassociated.com? All the specs and pics are there, including downloadable spec sheets. Welcome aboard. :D

[snowkd]

rocknbil

i should have phrased that better. what i meant was does anyone know a website that has videos of someone driving the rc10 gt around with no hopups?

[chickenmobilin]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAK4&P=0

Will this motor bolt into my GT without any mods? I like the motor and was thinking about upgrading.If not , can you guys please tell me a good engine , nice amounts of torque and top end , I dont really race , so it would be just a bash truck.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

dude go for the O.S TR TURBO if you really want toure it will give moe than you need.
ltho ur gona have to probably get a stronger drivetrain.

[Budman_222]

Does anyone know the needle settings for breaking in a cv 12. I bought this motor used with no paperwork and finally wore it out. I bought a new p/s but i'm not sure where to set the needles to break it in. It has the rotary carb. Thanks,


Bud

[Strike 4]

Here's what I heard

HS-2 turns
LS-.5 from level

[rocknbil]

For what carb man, the 10C or 10E-R? Just a CV, or CV-R?

In either case, you can download the manual from the OS site:

http://www.osengines.com/manuals/12cv-cv-x-manual.pdf

That one is for the CV, not the CV-R.

For the 10C, it looks like 2 turns out on the HS, set the LS flush with the carb body, go in 2.5 turns.


For the 10E, it looks like 2 turns out on the HS, set the LS flush with the carb body, go in 0.5 turns.

[Budman_222]

rockinbil,
It's the red head cv 12 motor. I'm not sure what a C carb looks like. My cv-r has the 10E-R carb and it looks just like it. The lsn is set just under flush like you said the 10E-R is set at. That and the fact that it looks the same makes me think it's the 10E-R. What does the 10 C carb look like? I downloaded the manual from the link you sent. Thanks......


Bud

[Budman_222]

Looks like in this manual the C carb is a slide carb. This is a rotary carb. Gotta be the 10E-R. ???


Bud

[rocknbil]

The manual has exploded views of both. (??) It probably is, but if you look on the side there should be a big "10E" stamped on it, on the side normally turned toward the head.

[dog8spam]

Does anyone know the difference between front a rear springs or did they just give them different colors so you think you have to buy two sets instead of one?

[dog8spam]

snowkid, it doesnt make a difference, all GTs run about the same. Even if there was a huge difference you couldnt tell from videos.

[nitrodude_1]

snowkd I am sellin my rc10gt and comes almost rtr just needs a 6.00 engine part and a radio and reciver and you are ready to go and mine comes with lots of great hop ups and a picco xp.15 engine .
hop ups
rpm front and rear a-arms
rpm bell crank
rpm bulk head
associated reverse fill gas tank
associated blue shock caps
rpm ball ends
just rebuit all 4 shocks
and rebult tranny and has somew new bearings
plus slipper clutch and break was rebuilt
has fairley new tires masher 2000's
I am asking for 200.00 shippin included depends were you live


my e-mail is jarld@dccnet.com

[bubbastump]

now that i can post again
old computer got cooked i can show more stuff

[MonsterBlazer#1]

well start showin:)

[RC10's]

Will this motor bolt into my GT without any mods? I like the motor and was thinking about upgrading.If not , can you guys please tell me a good engine , nice amounts of torque and top end , I dont really race , so it would be just a bash truck.

I would stay away from the traxxas engines, my expierences with them have not been good. For 150 bucks you can definetly get something better. I would go with probably a picco for good solid power or an OS for reliability and life. You cant beat an OS for longevity, they just keep working.

A good general rule for break in is 3 out on both LS and HS. I believe my OS was 3 out on the high and low, if its too rich its not gonna hurt anything, better to rich then too lean.

[dave mac]

Anyone ever replace the steel ones with titainum, I read the titaninum will not pop off as often, any body tried this with good results?

tia
Mac

[Strike 4]

Well from what I have heard steel is more strong but more heavy; however, when you're talking about something like a ball stud it won't matter. Has anyone put a Sirio in there GT?

[rocknbil]

The titanium ones are a bit stronger, but they will break like anything else. I've never broken one though. And I prefer my ball cups pop off rather than breaking off studs (which is why I've probably never broken one, but my wife goes through 'em though) so let the captured-end, RPM arguments begin . . . I just put new stocks on every 3 or 4 months when they start to stretch.

[nitrodude_1]

strike I have a sirio .12 roar legal engine in my factory team but I need to sell my other gt to buy a radio

[RC10's]

Titanium ball studs are unncesseray because a ball stud is not something you are likely to break. Stock ball studs are fine, the RPM ball cups are my personal choice over the stock.

[joke_one]

Originally posted by dog8spam
Does anyone know the difference between front a rear springs or did they just give them different colors so you think you have to buy two sets instead of one?

no they are differant lenths, quite differant acutally in rc terms, like an 1/8th of an inch.

so in full scale terms that would be like 2 feet or something, but it is 3 in the morning so my math may be off.

[2mcgrath]

guys i need some help here i just got my rc10gt's i traded my onroad car for them..i fired up the factory team today just got it yesterday it has the os 12cvx..and the truck will not move the engine will rev up but the truck goes no where i checked the clutch looks allright..any thoughts to what this could be as i am new to offroad..and also the dogbones are almost ready to pop out of the tranny i mean they are right at the end on the tranny any idea what this could be..i was thinking maybe somehow the shocks are a tad to long

[Polk]

Check your diff bolt, it could have come loose causing the symptons you describe.

[rocknbil]

Or . . . . the first GT I got used had been run with a loose diff like Polk says . . . the balls overheated and melted into the diff gear. It's only a $7 part but you need to tear down the tranny to fix it.

Is the slipper clutch loose?

[offroadcrazy01]

For your shocks add one inner shock limiter to the rears the black limiters for the rear, add the smaller white one's to the front ,try the slipper first,next try the pin in the cvd's,also check the diff setting,If that does not work rebuild the tranny the diff might be melted or the idler gear might be stripped out Good Luck

[nitrodude_1]

2mcgrath sounds like a loose diff. if there is any thing broken in the diff or melted you should replace the whole thing. and by whole thing I mean
diff balls
diff rings
diff gear
thrust balls
thrust washers

and for tightness I have it set up the spur gear tight as possible and then I hold the 1 wheel and the spur gear and I try to turn the other wheel and it should just turn when u put alot of preasure into it. it works on my truck.

[Polk]

Argh! :mad:

Im going through carby arms like a dog goes through biscuits! I need a metal one!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyone know where I can find one?

Thanks


P.S...For an AE .15 :)

[dog8spam]

Your endpoints must be off or your spring that pushes the carb shut when the brakes are on may be too strong. You shouldnt break those.

[Polk]

No its more that I keep dissasembling stuff and pop the ball cup of the carby arm to take the engine out, which is easier than taking apart the whole linkage. Which weakens it.

Dang Nammit! Clutch bell bearings just went BOOM...Metal bits everywhere..*sigh*

[MonsterBlazer#1]

I GOT THE SAME THING POLK!!!!!!!!!!!:mad:

[2mcgrath]

i took the trannys apart on both trucks last night and checked every thing out..i took the diff apart and it looks allright..but some of the tranny and slipper clutch was put together wrong..on the white peice that your long diff bolt screws into mine will not tighten the white peice down only to about half way is this right?or should it go down in there further like almost flush?and it is causing the dogbone to ride at the end of the tranny..oh and on the shock limiters are those the black spacer things?

[offroadcrazy01]

this is the part number for the rear shock limters 6466 go to towwerhobbies.com and put the number in and you can view the rear shock limters,the front limiter number is 6440

[2mcgrath]

i just got the tranny and all back together last night..i took the truck out a few minutes ago and ran it ran great and then all of a sudden it started doing it again the engine revving but the truck not moving..i checked the diff it is loose again..does these mean the diff is worn out??oh and thanks for all the help guys

[nitrodude_1]

no 2mcgrath if there is anything melted replace it again but your diff comes loose after a minute or so just from break in and then you have to tighten it up. I ran my truck about half throttle for about a min and cheacked it about 3 times before I actually ran full throttle but I didn't wana replace anything else. but you should always cheack it when it it new and after about 1/4 of a gallon just do it once a while it all depends what you do with the truck to jumping and racing cheack it every time you take it out bashing once in a while like every week:rolleyes: :D

[Spraguepsycho1]

I had problems wit hthe diff on my sons T3 loosening a while back, I found out I had it installed backwards, so the torque was loosening the adjustment screw, I flopped the diff in the housing and haven't had problems since.

[Polk]

Yea the diff bolt should be on the RIGHT of the truck when looking at it from behind, otherwise it will keep loosening itself.

[2mcgrath]

the head of the bolt is on the right..oh and this truck is used i didnt get to run it maybe 5 minutes today and the diff came loose again it was like this when i got it..i dont understand why it is doing this i just put the tranny back together last and like i say got to run it like 5 minutes today and it started doing the same thing again..and on the white thing that the diff bolt screws into should it go down in there almost flush..cause like i say i tighten the bolt all the way but there is still half of that peice showing and pushes my dogbone almost to the end of the tranny..

[Polk]

It should sit flush, read the manual, it explains it very clearly.

[1tuffRC10]

2mcgrath, I'll bet you got a extra diff spring stuck in the left outdrive. Sure is what it sounds like. Or maybe someone used the wrong spring. Sometimes they will get stuck in the outdrive, maybe the previous owner thought he lost it and put another one in. You are putting the round side of the plastic piece in first?
right?

[2mcgrath]

yeah im putting the round side first it sure has got me puzzled..when i took the diff apart it didnt look like there was an extra spring..and another problem is i dont have the manuel so im just going on what i think on it..i did look associated's page and looked at some of the pics of it in cad drawing and far as i can tell i have it right...yeah on that white peice i can tighten it so far and then it just stops and wont go any further and the white peice is only half way down..

[RC10's]

I once melted the diff gear so that you could grab the inside and turn it without moving the outside of the gear, this probably doesnt make much sense, but basically it would slip and it took me a while to figure out what was wrong. I highly reccomend you ditch the stock diff set up as it is not strong enough to take any abuse, and get a robinson aliminum gear, an MIP rebuild kit, new main screw and spring and new outdrives, spend some time putting it together lubing it properly and making sure the bearings sit in it right and it should last a long while. I think the biggest problem people have with these cars is getting in a hurry and not building things right the first time, so the parts end up failing later on...

[1tuffRC10]

2mcgrath, I'd check that left outdrive for that extra spring. They are sometimes next to impossible to get out.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
....pop the ball cup of the carby arm.....

Are you using a tool or just reefing on it until something gives? :D
If you use the tool for this purpose and pry against the ball and not pull on the arm, it should pop off without breaking the arm.

[offroadcrazy01]

use the losi xxx-nt linkage no more ball cup I use it on my gt and have never had that happen again

[2mcgrath]

thanks for the help..im gonna tear this thing down again and check everything again on both the trucks the trannys are doing the same thing lol..

[1tuffRC10]

2mcgrath, make sure also that the outdrives are on the correct sides. You never know!

[Polk]

Im using pliers and a screwcriver to pry the cup off, a metal one would also let me use a TRS with a lot more succes (no bending of arm)..

I found on the Crensezi (sp?) racing site a mod that enables you to have 3 clutch bell bearings, has anyone got/tryed this? It looks quite good.
Link: http://www.rc10gthobby.com/custom.htm
Scroll down a bit

Thanks

[rocknbil]

Your GT came with a tool, it doesn't look much like a tool, a flat piece of metal and one end is narrow and is "supposed" to be used as a turnbuckle adjustment tool. That's if you don't mind stripped out turnbuckle cams. But one thing it's really good for is popping off ball ends without stretching them or breaking things, if you slide the "U" under the ball end, not so far as to lock under the ball itself, and use a little twist it will pop off even RPM's without much work. Takes a while to get the hang but it works.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

dont got me 1 of them............

[1tuffRC10]

Polk, I've read that you can use a AE unflanged bearing in between the two flanged AE bearings. I haven't tried it, two work just fine for me.

[2mcgrath]

i will let you guys know if i get it worked out..i ordered some parts today so they will be here friday and im gonna try to get them all fixed up for racing..thanks alot

[GT Freak]

well, sold both my gt's but still have both my nds sedans (they r based on the older tub chassis) so il be here for a long time it seems! :D

[Polk]

Just bringing this to the top again:

Im using pliers and a screwcriver to pry the cup off, a metal one would also let me use a TRS with a lot more succes (no bending of arm)..

I found on the Crensezi (sp?) racing site a mod that enables you to have 3 clutch bell bearings, has anyone got/tryed this? It looks quite good.
Link: http://www.rc10gthobby.com/custom.htm
Scroll down a bit

Thanks


:D

[2mcgrath]

i gota question here i have a spare ae 15 with the standard crank..can i use this in my rc10gt cause i know they are short crank. if i just use the single nut on it because it has a grove at the end for a e clip..thanks

[dave mac]

I just wanted to let every one know since i have switched to titanum ball studs, my ball cups never pop off. REad about that in a RC Mag huge difference

THanks
Dave MAc

[2mcgrath]

am i looking at these right on the associated page?on your diff bolt are they suppose to be 6 balls that go in between the washers?i think they are called diff thrust washers':confused:

[Polk]

Yep your looking at it right.

[RC10's]

am i looking at these right on the associated page?on your diff bolt are they suppose to be 6 balls that go in between the washers?i think they are called diff thrust washers'

Yes 6 balls in the diff bolt is correct.

i gota question here i have a spare ae 15 with the standard crank..can i use this in my rc10gt cause i know they are short crank. if i just use the single nut on it because it has a grove at the end for a e clip..thanks

By standard crank do you mean standard length or is it SG? Because i have seen SG shaft engines put in the RTR GT so it canbe used with the proper equipment. If it is standard length you can cut it the right size.

[2mcgrath]

yeah i looked at the engine on assoctiated's page and it shows it can be used without cutting it so thats cool..and thanks for the info on the 6 balls for the thrust washer's mine doesnt have them so i guess i have found my problem..thanks for the help

[2mcgrath]

polk.... mine was doing the same thing when i got it that you are talking about..mine was also pushing the carb arm way to far back..i mean so far it was bending the arm i just made some different adjustments on the linkages and that took care of that.. now im working on the diff problem..

[dog8spam]

My GT works!!! Finally!!
It was the clutch shoes, they were worn too much.

I built a ramp in welding and IT IS AWESOME. If you stand behind it to get the car lined up you dont even have to move, it just goes right over your head. Ill try to get some pics sometime.

[Polk]

GAAAAARRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH MOTHER F@#*^7 PEICE OF h$)* S#@!...WHY WONT YOU F%^^@* WORK YOU F$#@)(* PEICE OF USELSS CRUD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




F^$@ YOU!

[1tuffRC10]

polk, do you feel better now? LOL:eek:

[Polk]

That feels....slightly better...

I cant get my linkage right! I bought 2 carby arms yesterday (all hobby shop had) and Ive broken one already trying to get the damn thing right! I set it so that the carb arm does not bend and so when i hit brake it doesnt lower the idle, but then i dont have ANY brakes! The servo doesnt move at all when I hit the brakes! Or I can have it just right with the carb (no bendage/lowering of idle) but then the servo does have enough 'omph' to pull on the brakes, so i adjust it the other way and bam majur bendage and the idle is all out of whack. I just cant get it right, not matter how i reset, reset and reset the arms, change every knob on my tx, nothing!

HELP!!! How do YOU guys set up your throttle linkages?

F$&* MOTHER H#@( S*(% DAMN

[offroadcrazy01]

Polk turn your radio on take the servo horn off let the servo center put the horn onso that the carb is maybe 3mm open ask the guy at your local hobby shop to take a look at it dont give up on your truck take it to a track and have some one there look at it who has a gt or take a picture of it so we can see maybe something is to long or to short,does it look like the one on page 19 or page24 in the mannal maybe piece7560 is to long

[RC10's]

Patience is a virtue my friend...Are you using the stock engine and radio equipemnt? If not what is your exact set-up. Do you have all the little springs and retainers and all that junk in thier proper places on the linkages? Show us a picture of your set up...

[Polk]

Okay...im calm...kinda

Heres a pic, note carb arm isnt connected, havent got round to it yet, and the blue brake retainer is also just sitting loose...(thing by brake lever near diff)

[dog8spam]

I still dont see how your breaking the "carby" arm. Can you adjust EPA?

[MonsterBlazer#1]

for sh! tz sake
i cant get the muther to make the pics small enough to post
im sick of it.
what programs u run?

[rocknbil]

MonsterBlazer,

Open your pic in Photoshop, if you don't have it download PaintShop Pro. You need to RESIZE the image, 72 DPI, and the pixel width will vary with the amount of JPG compression, but it should be between 400 and 600 DPI wide.

When you go to save in JPG format, there should be a slider or numeric entry option that goes from left to right ot 1 to 10, 1 and left being the most compression and minimum quality, right and 10 being the opposite. Play around with these, then go to the finished file, right-click it and select Properties, until the file size is under 60K.

Polk,

It's indeed a difficult task to get it just right. Set everything to neutral with the electronics on, shut them off, then expirament with a combination of rotating the servo horn, using holes farther in and out on the arm, and adjusting the collar and brake nut until it gets into the right spot for throttle and brake. Go for correct throttle over brake if you have to, but you'll find the spot . . .

[atm92484_3]

Polk, I can see part of your problem right there. Look at the slider for the linkage; its on the lefthand side of the screw in that pic. It needs to be on the right to prevent binding. With the way you have it now, its putting a sideways torque on the carb arm. You also need to rotate the carb so the arm is in the same plane as the linkage to prevent binding.

[RC10's]

I noticed you dont have the springs on your brake arm either...

To downsize pictures I use microsoft paint, it comes with all versions of windows.

[Polk]

Well I think i may have it all set, but i cant be sure till my tx finishes charging....we'll see....

[GT Freak]

im needing to know something, where in hobby's name, can i get a THROTTLE RETURN SPRING at :confused:

[Polk]

Tower has them (www.towerhobbies.com)

Search for #7652

[NitroBoy24]

Anyone here taken apart their carb, cleaned it, and then put it back together? If so, how long did it take? If mine keeps stickin WOT Im gonna have to do that. Hopefully it wont, cuz Im goin to my aunts today and she lives in the desert :D. YAY dirt! Ive got like 3 1/2 hours to see if my carb is workin and if I have to take it apart and clean. Off to go test it.
NitroBoy24

[Polk]

If youve never done it before, it will take you about 30min..max. Just remember to check the exploded veiw on your engine manual to make sure you put it back together right.

:)

[nitrodude_1]

well guys I have desided it would cost to much to buy a new gt so I just bought 259.00 of upgrades that look way cool. It is just like boom need a new engine though I droped mine and it broke

[losixxx213]

Does anyone have any info on the gt rtr plus, I'm looking for the way the enigine handles and top speed.

[2mcgrath]

well got my parts today and got the diff and stuff back together..the tranny now works awesome like it is suppose to..is there a happy medium for setting your diff and your slipper clutch..i think my diff is a little to tight and the slipper also..

[2mcgrath]

oh and on the throttle return spring i got mine off ebay from rcboyz they have some in there ebay store check them out $2.65 is the cost on it

[1tuffRC10]

2mcgrath, I build my diff by the book. When it starts to slip after break in, I tighten it just a little bit at a time till it doesn't slip. Take the nut off the slipper and put it on backwards. On low traction surfaces you will need it on this way. Again set the slipper by the book. It should slip for about 5 feet at WOT preferably on the slickest part of the track. Both are tuff to adjust, just be patient. If they both are set properly, the truck will be so easy to drive. I don't mess with the diff unless it's slipping. Adjust the slipper for the track.

BTW, that other brand makes a good throttle return spring.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

cant understand that freaking paint shop pro crAp

[GT Freak]

I have to see how smart you guys really are: I have lost a dogbone in my dsT but the camber link is still connected, why did i lose a dogbone :confused:

[atm92484_3]

Check the downstop on the car. Theres a chance the arm is going down too far and letting the dogbone come out. This can be fixed by either putting fuel tubing or a spring in the outdrive or by adding internal spacers onto the shock shaft.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

what can i say ATm covered it.
just put what u feel is best out of what he sed in the cups and then let ur wheels hang down all the way and rotate the wheels, make sure u still have plently of meat left in the cups so it cant flick out.
also dont froget to let the front ones have a little more DB in the cup so that when u turn the wheels it wont open the gap and throw the DB.

--Neil

[2mcgrath]

got a question on the throttle return springs how do you guys get them to work good??when i get mine set where it pulls the throttle back to idle it has so much tension on it the servo wont pull it wot..and when i set it where it pulls wot the spring wont pull it all the way back to idle..oh by the way i have the team associated one..oh and what does that do to turn the nut backwards on your slipper?

[GT Freak]

atm, nope thats not it, i know what happened, just want to see if some can figure it out also :cool:

[Polk]

The camber of the wheel is to much...A shock broke off....Rear shock tower broke...dogbones was bent thus was shorter and fell out (had it happened)....There was no spacer on either of the out drives...It could be anything!

[1tuffRC10]

Gt freak, Check the control arm mounts. If they are loose or the holes in the chassis are out of round the arm will swing around enough for the axel to come out. It will on a GT anyway!

[dog8spam]

Does anyone have any info on the gt rtr plus, I'm looking for the way the enigine handles and top speed.
Ive got two friends that have em. Theyve got good low end and once you take of the pull start they get good high end.

[GT Freak]

none of the above, ill tell ya waht happened, th pin that holds the arm lost a clip, them moved enough for the arm to move enough that the dogbone to come out!: :cool:

so now itrs new dogbone and connecting rod replacment time.

[GT Freak]

to polk: leave your radio and receiver turned on when you set your arevo arm on the servo, then do the adjusting, easier this way. at lest to me it is:)

[1tuffRC10]

GTfreak, drill a hole in the arm mount, put a set screw in it, flat spot the pin and you won't have to fool with those stupid clips again!:D

[Polk]

Still not right...:mad: :mad: :mad:


Heres what its set at now...Right now carb doesnt open fully at WOT, I have some brake but can still turn spur with 1 finger fairly easy, but no carb movement at idle. I can adjust it so I have a good amount of brake and good WOT but then idle loweres when i hit brakes. If i adjust the EPA for the brakes so the idle doewnt lower I then have no brake at all..

*crys*

[Polk]

:mad:

[1tuffRC10]

polk, don't use your trim to get the engine to idle. It should idle no matter what. Sounds like you just need to set the idle faster on the carb with the stop screw.

[Polk]

I now have WOT (moved blue thingie along) But still crap brakes...I think its the peice of junk hitec servo which cant pull it...Cant afford new one...dang nammit

[Polk]

No, when I go from WOT to nuetral on the transmittier it goes down to an idle speed, then when i hit brakes it goes to a lower idle speed and if i adjust the EPA to stop it doing this and just go one idle speed, I dont have any brakes.

[fasteddie9111]

hey,
i was wondering if any of you guys know what would be a good pipe to run off of a 15cvr, i was leaning towards a ths racing pipe, what do you guys think? thanks.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

the AE one is fine.

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
No, when I go from WOT to nuetral on the transmittier it goes down to an idle speed, then when i hit brakes it goes to a lower idle speed.....

Polk you're supposed to set the EPA as far as it will go, both ends. Now adjust your idle stop screw so it goes right where you want it to idle, no farther. When the servo horn passes that point, the spring on the throttle arm compresses and slides in toward the carb. This is what allows the brake stroke to go PAST the idle point and cut you some brakes. It doesn't need much, but that last 5º of rotation or so is usually enough to lock up the brakes.

Optimally when you release the trigger (neutral) it goes to dead idle or just compresses the spring a little, this gives you room to tune for different conditions (weather, etc.)

[dog8spam]

If you cant get brakes move the clamp behind the fuel tubing up.

[1tuffRC10]

Polk, if you go to idle and your wheels are spinning, then hit the brakes and the engine slows down and the wheels stop, then check your clutch. Sounds like it's dragging. If it is a MIP it may need a little trimming. If the holes are stretched then it's toast. If you are running the stock two shoe, good luck! Make sure the bearings are good also.

[Polk]

Originally posted by dog8spam
If you cant get brakes move the clamp behind the fuel tubing up.

Yea but then the servo cant pull it hard enough to pull the brakes on. Thats the root of all my problems, the servo is to weak to pull the brakes on to how I like them. Crappy Hitec.

[1tuffRC10]

Servo almost out. I hate that, but at least it gave you some warning. When they just suddenly die completely really bites

[Polk]

Servo is only abot a month old..Its not broken...Its hitec...:D (good idea for a new motto!)

[1tuffRC10]

I've used hitech before with good results. Best that I can remember they acted a little stupid before they went out. Maybe you have chipped a tooth off a gear inside, or my luck, just got a bad one!

[rocknbil]

Originally posted by Polk
...the servo cant pull it hard enough to pull the brakes on....

Something doesn't make sense here. If you disconnect the brake arm and put it to where it *almost* squeezes the brake pad, it only takes about 1/4" of movement to completely lock the spur. It doesn't require much strength from a servo to do that.

The spring on the throttle arm shaft should be just tense enough to keep from flopping around at neutral.

I think you still need to find the "sweet spot."

[2mcgrath]

yeah im trying to set up a different linkage on mine and having some of the same problems..im trying to use a slider also

[AErc10gt]

Hi, I was wondering what a good glow plug would be for the RC10GT :confused:. I'm using 10% fuel.

Thanks. :D AErc10gt

[Polk]

You can never go wrong with an OS No. 8 plug man!

My linkages still arent right....Yep, Im crying...

[MonsterBlazer#1]

yep i use OS#8's aswell
good plug, lasts for ages.
i use 15% nitro aswell. if ur using the stok Æ make sure u have 18% oils.

[AErc10gt]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
yep i use OS#8's aswell
good plug, lasts for ages.
i use 15% nitro aswell. if ur using the stok Æ make sure u have 18% oils.





I'm using the Ae.15, does that change anything?:confused:
THANKS. , AErc10gt

[2mcgrath]

i have two rc10gt's one has the os 12cv and the other has the ae 15.. i run os 8's in both of those with no problems and im running 20% fuel..byron fuel to be exact..i have also used fox plugs in other things and find them to work pretty good also..

[NitroBoy24]

My dads FT GT brakes are total crap and so are mine. If I go from wot to full brake itd probablly take atleast 20 yards to stop. Ive heard other people complaining about the AEs crap brakes also. I guess I need to set some "drag brake", time to go expirement...

[The King]

Originally posted by NitroBoy24
My dads FT GT brakes are total crap and so are mine. If I go from wot to full brake itd probablly take atleast 20 yards to stop. Ive heard other people complaining about the AEs crap brakes also. I guess I need to set some "drag brake", time to go expirement...

This will solve your problem http://www.rc10gthobby.com/dbrake.htm

[GT Freak]

no. 8 is the only plug ill use in mine, best out that ive seen!

ive heard of FOX plugs, but dont know anything about those
:confused:

also, whats this i hear of a CARBON brake shoe?? and a aluminum brake nut?? would these be good for my NDS?? whats the advantages of these over stock parts :confused:

[MonsterBlazer#1]

my brakes are excellent, its jsut how u set it up. its crucial, takes a while and alot of fiddling but when its done ull have a great set-up

[1tuffRC10]

I'll stay out of the linkage set up. Last time I tried to help with that it came out confusing as he!!. OS 8 is a great plug but not in a AE engine. They need a longer plug such as a MC59. The OS's will work but it will lower your compression. Biggest problem is the "glow" is further up in the combustion chamber causing incomplete combustion.

[The King]

It sure is nice having you around 1tuffrc10. Its like having a on board mechanic:D You are very helpful to us newbies:cool:

[electrorc]

I am looking at getting a GT; it will be my first nitro and second hobby level car. I'm looking at the RTR Plus version. Is this a good truck for beginner/intermediate drivers? It will be for bashing (street, gravel, some grass) and some racing. I was also looking at the Sport Gas Truck, but I don't know how competitive that is being older, if it can use newer parts such as the new flat chassis, or how easy it would be to build. It would be my first kit.
Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Do yourself a favor and get the RTR Plus. The Sport version comes with the old chassis (as you already know) and bushings. If you end up building a Sport, you'll spend more upgrading the chassis and bearings than you would have if you just got the RTR Plus.

If you really want to build, spend the extra cash and try finding a Team version (<- this version was discontinued due to low sales though) or just get the Factory Team. No matter what you do, you'll be happy with the GT though.

[Polk]

:( :( :( :( :( :(

I just broke part of one of my heatsink fins off....

:(

My own fault really, The linkage slipped out from the servo arm. I should have had a nut on there, I did before but i took it out to adjust it more easily. And I should have been using a TRS....Of course this all happened at WOT. Compression HAS suffered.


:(

[MonsterBlazer#1]

as we say in australia

BUGG3R!
BU M
$H!T
B@ST@RD

:(:(
bugger...:(:(

[2mcgrath]

one of my trucks has a dynamite header with the stock pipe..but it seems that the rear a arm hits the header before bottoming out anyone else had this problem?

[offroadcrazy01]

What was wrong with the stock header it worked fine for me,I used it for years,now I have the losi rear exhaust header but the ae rear exhaust header works great too if I where you i would stick with ae or losi parts they are the top of the line trucks right now

[KanaiDude]

Hey guys, where do you place your battery pack(s) at, i have a hump pack strapped to the rear, does anyone use a flat pack on the chassis and strap the reciever to that, all in place of the reciever box? do you all recomend the alluminum skid? and some of the pin carriers to? im going to be racing it alot, thanks...

[offroadcrazy01]

I race alot too I use the regular battery holder I but shoegue on the bottom of the battery to make sure it does not come out also I use zip ties,hit the brakes in the air to take some of the presser off the back end of the car,I would stick with the stock battery holder my friend has the alluminum one and it bent .which pins are you talking about the one's in the cvd,if so just once a month relock tight them maybe two month's,save you money the better driver you become the cheaper the hobby gets,the only hop up most of the guys at the track I race at have is rpm rear pivot blocks,trinity tranny brace,lunsford or ae ft tie rods.Some people use the flat pack in the battery holder I have the hump trinity 5 cell myself I hear the flat one lowers your center of gravity I don't known how true it is

[Polk]

:(

[KanaiDude]

thanks offroadcrazy, so i bought this ftrc10 used, and I don't know if it came with what your calling the battery box, I don't think it did, there is nothing in the back besides a little rubber cover to go over the battery, and then the two grooves in the back skid to zip tie the battery down, does this seem right? I was on tower and couldn't find a battery box part for the rc10gt, does anyone know where to get one? So a flat pack sticks out of the sides of the rear skid by a half inch or more on both sides? what tires are you guys using, i have the bow ties, what else is good for fairly hard packed? THANKS!

[GT Freak]

hi all im wanting to put a aluminum tranny case, brake nut and arms along with carbon brake shoe on 1 of my nds sedans where can i get these items at?? i looked at tower and cant find them.... :confused:

[dog8spam]

Anyone have a pic of the flat one in a GT? It would be lower but I dont see how it would fit. Right now I use Duracells with a battery holder I made out of tin that ties into the shock tower. That thing is tough! Someday I want to get a CNC machine setup so I can duplicate it.

Polk- once my GT got loose (at full throttle) because of linkage problems with no pipe or brakes. I dont remeber exactly when the pipe fell off but I remeber taking apart the brake assembly and finding that the hex hub was completely missing.

[nitrodude_1]

Originally posted by electrorc
I am looking at getting a GT; it will be my first nitro and second hobby level car. I'm looking at the RTR Plus version. Is this a good truck for beginner/intermediate drivers? It will be for bashing (street, gravel, some grass) and some racing. I was also looking at the Sport Gas Truck, but I don't know how competitive that is being older, if it can use newer parts such as the new flat chassis, or how easy it would be to build. It would be my first kit.
Thanks

well if you wana buy a really nice used rtr I am your man.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=148753
I have enven more stuff included now to. but if you don't want it thats fine I am also selling my stuff sepratley. the truck need a little work like some new screws and bolts but just little thing. let me know

[1tuffRC10]

Kanaidude, that sounds like all you need. Just put some foam between the bumper and batteries and zip tie it down. I wrap it in a little black tape also on very rough tracks. We are running Losi IFMAR pins on a hard track. They wear a little quick if you spin them a lot but be easy on them and they are great. Losi studs may work better still. Just got some this week, I'll let you know how they worked.

[offroadcrazy01]

kanai dude I dont use the foam I just shoegue the battery to the battery holder then the zip ties,as for tires m2 holeshots in front with gold springs,for rear m3 bowtieswith green springs,35 ft 30rear shock oil proline edge's work great too m2 compound,also there's no battery boxp:s run your LSN a little rich and it will save your tires,not to rich just a bit lsn=low speed needle

[KanaiDude]

Thanks guys much appreciated! I will get on it, loosen my slipper a little, or richen my lsn (it's a sirio, gonna shred massive tires if i don't it sounds like) and strap down that battery one way or another!

[hurikane85]

Howdy, I just purchased a new Gt rtr plus.. Im sick of electric racing an watched a nitro race at my local track an said heck ya thats looks plum bad! problem is i havnt a clue on nitro's and i apologise for my retarded questions or no brainers. well i was wondering what receiver battery is should get what style size or what! thanks for any info

[nitrodude_1]

Hurikane I though you said it was a rtr just stay with that till it brakes then buy another one

[RC10's]

If your gonna use the stock battery pack with the 4 double A's, I highly recomend that you wrap electric tape around the pack several times to make sure none of the batterys can pop out of the plastic holder. If your gonna upgrade to a rechargeable 5 cell, which are really nice, the GT is pretty accomidating and just about any of them will fit.

[MonsterBlazer#1]

Originally posted by nitrodude_1
Hurikane I though you said it was a rtr just stay with that till it brakes then buy another one

u talk some *****
what stupid advice to give a new nitro'er

Hurikane.
i just got 4 sanyo rechargeable battieries and put it in one of those 4XaaCell battiy packs that comes with most radio sets.
i just insulated then and amde it water proof. its a great pack.

[dog8spam]

what stupid advice to give a new nitro'er
Why? If it aint broke dont fix it. Also shouldnt that be four *s?

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by MonsterBlazer#1
u talk some *****
what stupid advice to give a new nitro'er

Hurikane.
i just got 4 sanyo rechargeable battieries and put it in one of those 4XaaCell battiy packs that comes with most radio sets.
i just insulated then and amde it water proof. its a great pack.

Look whos flaming now...so YOU are telling a nitro new comer that its okay to run his car on 4.8v then?

Hurikane, nitro was right in saying just stick with the AAs for now (atleast through break-in). When you're ready for a pack, Trinity and Team Orion both make a variety of high quality packs that will fit the GT. You will want either the Losi style pack (4 cells on bottom and 1 centered on top) or a 2/3 pack (3 cells on the bottom and 2 cells on top). When you get a pack, remember that you'll also need to come up with a charger and either solder a different plug onto the switch or replace the switch.

Welcome to the GT board an enjoy the truck.

[KanaiDude]

That's 4 ****'s and a slew of spelling mistakes, now that's advice I want to take... Like atm said, rechargeables will only give you 4.8 volts in your pack not 6 volts like standard double aa's. Towerhobbies has great packs for 25-30 dollars and any config you want, i use a hump pack 3 on bottom and 2 on top in the back of my truck.

[offroadcrazy01]

If your going to be racing I would get the pack and a high torque servo to start with .Hitec has some cheap high torgue servo chech out servo hs-645 try towwerhobbies.com,I have a trinity 5cell pack it's works cool think I payed 40.00 the cheaper one I dont think last as long welcome to gas truck racing it's fun at first you will have alot of problems put after you work them out it's great come here and ask around you get the answer's P.S. pay real close att. to your manual it will save you alot of money

[2mcgrath]

Originally posted by offroadcrazy01
What was wrong with the stock header it worked fine for me,I used it for years,now I have the losi rear exhaust header but the ae rear exhaust header works great too if I where you i would stick with ae or losi parts they are the top of the line trucks right now

that is the problem man i didnt get the stock header with it..it came with the dynamite header on it and the other truck i have came with a ofna pipe..

[1tuffRC10]

I've never seen a AE header for rear exhaust. Anyone got a part number for it?