paint tips

[dag]

does anyone have any good tips for painting a fiberglass hull? I bought a white nitro hammer and I did not like the decals that came with it so I only put a few of them on in different places than suggested. I not really happy with it so i bought the decals for the shockwave and plan on painting it yellow. i am going to cut out some of the shockwaves' decals and see where I can fit them on. There is a big size difference between the two. My boat is 24" where the shockwave is about 55". I'ts my winter project to keep me busy. I hope it turns out ok. I'm not trying to make a mini shockwave but I think the graphics and color scheme look nice.

[lovinnitro]

Take your time and take your time is the key to ANY decent paint job. rough up the existing pant a little with around 800 grit sandpaper and reshoot it wet sand with about 1200 grit. I like to place decals at this point and shoot with a good quality automotive clear to protect decals and paint. Then wet sand with 1800 grit (to remove orange peel) and polish it out. My preference is a rubbing compund with light pressure followed by Miguire's scratch remover then a good quality wax. you will not be dissapointed.

[dag]

i'm not sure i understand. You think I should sand it, paint it, wet sand it again, apply the decals, apply a clear coat, wet sand again, and the polish it.

[bugfanatic]

You got it! I actually like to put a few base coats on, but it's the same. Make sure you follow the Lacquer vs Enamel rules (enamel over lacqer, never lacquer over enamel) & always put a hard clear coat on so it'll be nitro proof - you will have to add hardener if you have it mixed.

[hydroracer]

lovinnitro's post is the best possible way. but i feel that dag has little or no experience with 2 stage automotive type jobs or the equipment. so here's a low cost alternative. rough up the current paint like he said, then get some spray can auto paint like duplicolor from the auto parts store. you may want to get a can of primer too for a good paint bond. the stuff will resist a fair amount of nitro. very important, clean and degrease the hull extremely well after sanding, before painting.

[lovinnitro]

That's the ticket Dag, I know it sound tedious but sanding between coats will give you a better finish in the end. Don't sand the coat of paint off just smooth it out before the next coat. with the clear coat I apply at least three coats while sanding inbetween. The final sand is to remove any orange peel. It also depends on how nice you want the paint to be but if I spend hours building it then I'm going to take the time to make it look good as well.
I'm with you bug I like at least two to three coats of my base color and at least three clear.
Hydro, that is with Dupli Color spray man!!!!!!!!!!! I just get a small areosol sprayer to shoot the clear which I get at an automotive paint supply place. I like Duplicolor paints, they go on nice but you HAVE to protect them or they WILL strip.

[hydroracer]

ah, didn't know they had a good clearcoat! :cool:

[bugfanatic]

Yep, go to your local paint supply place - ask a body shop as they buy from the same place. Actually, you can even have a body shop mix this for you. Anyway, have them put the clear & hardener into a spray can for you - it costs $15 & is well worth it.

[bufferoo]

I'm lucky. I have a body shop supplier very close to home that will mix up ANY colour- base coat\clear coat, mirage\chameleon, custom PPG etc, and load them into a spray bomb can. Body shop results and quality at home.

It's about $25 for the base\clear set (2 cans). Of course the type of paint will match each other and costs will change it you go with the high end stuff. But anything that a shop can paint on your car, you can get in a can.

Bufferoo