Brushless on a TA04-TRF

[JackANSI]

I have three requests for the people who have/know brushless systems:

1. If you had limited funds (say 350 - 400$) how would you put a brushless setup on a TA04-trf? (Brands/model #'s and prices please).

2. If you had a budget of 500 - 650$.

3. Money is no object.

[brutesparkfist]

I'd say 350 -400 would definately be enough for a touring car.

here is what I can think of:
http://www.hackerbrushless.com/motors_c40.shtml
C40 7T $169.00

or http://www.finedesignrc.com/motors.asp Lehner Basic 5300
$109.00

for the controller:

http://www.hackerbrushless.com/controllers.shtml
Master CAR Sport $199.00 looks good

[OptimaMan]

300 :Basic 5300 (110), Master Sport (200)

350-400: Hacker c40 6, Master car sport (170+200)

500-600: Lehner 1920 5 turn (220) + Master competition (270)

No limit: Lehner 1920 5 turn (220), Schulze 18.129 controller (400).

I am assuming you want to race and use 6-8 cells max?

[JackANSI]

Yes I plan on building an 7 or 8-cell pack for the ta04, but it would be nice to use the 6-cell packs I already have once in a while.

[JackANSI]

Where are you guys getting the 200$ price tag for the Master CAR Sport? I keep seeing 270$

[DualBL]

the comp is $270 and the sport is $200
www.finedesignrc.com
i'm not sure if they have em in stock tho =/
-Nick

[JackANSI]

Originally posted by OptimaMan
300 :Basic 5300 (110), Master Sport (200)


I think this is what I'm going to buy to kinda ease into the brushless thing. Thanks for the input, people.

[k_sw31]

I would say do a hacker master competition and a hacker C40 7t.

430$ out the door, but that, imo is one of the best 1/10th setups out there. The basic 5300 is a good motor, but I do not like it a while lot, I have heard of many people messing up their motors in simple ways. My man grip is the motor mounting plate. It is only 3mm deep so it is easy to poke and damage the windings. Aside from that, the tapped holes are quite easy to strip out.

The hacker has 6mm deep holes, and I haven't heard of people stripping out the holes. I have a basic 5300 and a hacker master comp, the performance is great.

But, frankly, the motor just has too much baggage.

[OptimaMan]

Yeah, he's got a point there. I was doing some thinking and would have to agree with ksw31. The Hacker is a better motor (faster and motor mounting screws are 6 mm long as opposed to 3mm long. But, it does cost like 60 bucks more...

[OptimaMan]

JackANSI,

Even though the basic 5300 and Hacker Master sport is a good combo for a touring car, I believe you'll grow out of it pretty quickly. I did. The power was great and it was awesome to have a motor that didn't need ANY maintenance but... you'll want MORE power. That's why I ended up getting a Hacker C40 6t next.

It's the cheapest way to get a decent start, but I think you'll ultimately be doing yourself a favor if you did spend the extra hundred or so and got the Hacker Master Competition and as ksw31 says, the C40 7t. The 6t is reallly fast... maybe too fast for indoor carpet racing. I just broke parts left and right in my XXX-S with that motor. The sedan with foam tires felt like it could almost pull wheelies (you completely lost steering when accelerating). With the 6 turn, geared appropriately, I could easily run for 8 minutes with 3300 batteries and the top speed at the middle of the 70 feet straightaway was over 30 mph. That's over 30 mph after only accelerating for 35 feet!!!

The next motor after that was the Lehner 1920 5 turn. The RPM is slightly less than the C40 6 turn, but that motor has so much torque, it's insane. I have yet to measure top speed in my XXX-S with 6 cells, but I'm positive it's well over 50 mph. BTW, a C40 6 turn will get any sedan going over 50mph with 6 cells in about 200 feet. (When I do speed runs up and down my street, I only have about 200-300 feet of clear straightaway). These speeds are GPS measured too so I'm not exxagerating. And, it's not completely overgeared either. It'll spin its tires easily and so you actually have to accelerate gradually!

[JackANSI]

Well I'm a firm believer in brushless power/speed now.

I was able to snap a rear aluminum drive shaft on my TA04-TRF! TRC Magenta tires, 8-cell pack, lehner 5300.

The shaft broke at the machined ball end of the universal joint.

I think it lost grip on the inside rear tire around a turn, I hit full throttle and the wheel spun way up thanks the the diff. When the wheel came back down and gained grip again I guess it was too much stress for it. At least thats the theory.

Not long before this I replaced the nylon cups and plastic rear ball-diff setup with an aluminum pulley and the "lower-end" metal cups. I guess the nylon cups were really taking the beating after all and keeping the shafts from taking it all.

Everything else looks to be in good shape and suprisingly the belts have held up well to 35mph+ for run after run. I didn't even know it was broke save for the horrible noises coming from the car since the drive shaft got lodged in the lower arm.

Well off to "down grade" yet another TRF part to a stronger steel component.

I've never had more fun in RC since switching to brushless