XTM Mammoth Forum [Archive] - Radio Control Zone

Nitromethane

01-14-2004, 11:45 AM

Hey Ninja,
What's up?

I'm not to sure on the carbon fiber. If thick enough, it is stronger than 6061, but instead of bendind it will crack and break.
There is a guy on Ebaywith CF shock towers but his Buy It Now is over $100 :rolleyes: .

When I got the Thunder Quake, it had weak shock towers too. But luckily, I got Smash and Bash Racing to make me some 6AL-4V Titanium towers and they were sweet.
That's what I could go for are Titanium shock towers with a single buggy type body mount.
XTM has some 7075 towers, but that should of came standard on the truck.

Someone gave me an idea on using the Xterminator chassis with the mammoth for racing, but by looking it looks like alot of the parts are different.
I need to see a Xterminator up close. That would be nice if we take advantage of the buggy hop ups.
I think some Xfactor parts will work, like diff cups, etc..

Grifter

01-19-2004, 08:09 PM

Hey guys, I read the article on the Mammoth in RCCA. It looks like a very nice truck.

It doesnt seem like Maxx Rims and Tires would fit, do the Proline 40 Series fit?

Thanks.

MetallicaChad

01-23-2004, 06:41 PM

you can use the maxx style rims on the mammoth if you get the adaptors from xtm.

Nitromethane

01-23-2004, 06:53 PM

MetallicaChad,
What's up?

I seen you Mammoth double back flip vid....nice!!

I'm currently working on making an upper chassis plate for the Mammoth to help take out some of the flex.
A nice chromemoly roll cage would be the ticket though.

Grifter

01-24-2004, 11:05 AM

Ok, thanks.

MetallicaChad

01-24-2004, 11:46 AM

we got a local machine shop guy that is going to make aluminum bulks or at least the top part with the ears for the big xtms. so i will have to get a set and update about em.

Pat4x4

02-09-2004, 08:17 PM

can you use a starter box on the mammoth??/ I saw a opening on the bottom at the flywheel in the mag.... thanks

kevskydv

02-15-2004, 09:15 PM

Yes, you can use a starterbox on it.

metalry101

04-21-2004, 07:16 PM

Alrighty, this thread needs to get more active. My Mammoth will be here tomorrow. I can't wait, my first nitro!!! Should be a nice companion for my heavily modded E-Maxx!

NitroDad

04-21-2004, 11:16 PM

Youo can buy a roll cage for the Mammoth, I seen one today at the hobby shop, I think it was like 65.00. I don't know if it will stiffin it though, the only mounting points are at each end, maybe you could tie it into the middle somewhere. It was also kind of heavy.

metalry101

04-27-2004, 10:06 AM

Ahhh, nitro craziness. Sooo much fun! Got the truck, awesome stuff, but they really aren't kidding around when they say the shock towers are fragile. If it's not a perfect landing, they're toast. I bent mine like 4 times, and I didn't do anything even remotely extreme w/ the truck, just rolled it a coupla times and landed it facing up from a little itty bitty jump (like 3 feet of air total little). Geez, those are getting replaced soon. I also tossed the stock clutch (it was toast) in favor of the purple aluminum one from Ofna.

TJNMT

05-01-2004, 12:35 PM

Hey what's up guys. I have been with HPI cars and trucks since they were born. But today I just had to order this massive truck. Truck will come in 2 days, plans will be to ditch the electronics and install some new puppies on this massive beast. any suggestions for servos. The radio will run off my mx3 I have 1 more profile to fill up on it and this will be the truck for it;

So please post up and get me ready.

Oh yeah the reason for this truck over the savage, IT'S HUGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

TJNMT

05-01-2004, 12:41 PM

update, order is a done deal, mistake on shipping will be here by the end of next week. So in the mean time post up your suggestions

metalry101

05-01-2004, 11:18 PM

Suggestions, hmm. Unless you're a master of controlling a vehicle in flight, don't launch it. You'll bend the rear shock tower and possibly even the chassis if the landing is bad enough. The 5mm shock towers that XTM makes are supposed to help a ton, as are the billet chassis braces. A cage would help too, but that's pricey. Solid truck, stupid fast, and freakin ginormous. Even bigger than my Torpedo chassised E-Maxx (2" longer than stock").

TJNMT

05-02-2004, 12:18 AM

I aint no maste but well good with the NMT. This will be my first monster truck, sort of a onroad guy with a basher NMT. But I;ll check out those shock towers (5mm that is real thick), also for the chassis braces.

I did some scoping around getting ready and I have heard that it would be wiser just to add the roll cage to truck. Cheaper and provides the strengh for the whole truck, is this true.

Anybody out there have one and want to share your thoughts on this.

thanks a ton

metalry101

05-02-2004, 01:49 AM

I've heard that the cage really helps the truck out a lot, but isn't bulletproof. Crazy **** will still mess it up a bit, but it will protect the truck and shrug off anything but the craziest of crashes. The chassis braces are needed because the stock braces are turnbuckles w/ rod ends, and while the turnbuckle shouldn't bend, the roc ends will give up the ghost oh a hard hit. I've already toasted mine. Granted, that was a pretty hard hit (chassis and shock tower bent, toasted rod end, bent brake mount (where the rod end attached to), and a thoroughly bent rear dogbone). Funny stuff other than I have to pay for it all. Oh well, it's all good. I'll get my truck running one of these days. Good luck, and enjoy your truck!

TJNMT

05-04-2004, 11:30 AM

Update on some parts order.

got a MS filter, 3/8 bar stock for the chassis braces. also I;ll be using the stock ones for braces for the towers. and the GT fuel tank to replace the stock 125cc tank. plus a bunch of other nicknacks to help stiffen up the truck.
I;m going to stay away from the hard bodys cages but will look into the rc soultions one.

Also I am fimilar with .15 and below engines as far as glow plugs and tunning. What kind plugs you would recommend with the 24.7. I like to stick with mccoy plugs.

Any suggestions on that also

adambomb

06-11-2004, 10:29 PM

Is XTM going to come out with optional gearing or what? :mad: I have been waiting for a while and I'm quite mad.

TJNMT

06-14-2004, 08:01 AM

Go to the global mammoth fourms to voice your statment along with the many mammoth owners. Global keeps putting the date off for releasement

Breakcheck

06-18-2004, 01:31 AM

any one crash their mammoth and have done upgrades? I needs some parts at a good price.

TJNMT

06-18-2004, 10:20 AM

What are you looking for?

Breakcheck

06-21-2004, 01:12 AM

Well i have te parts now, I have a question. When you rotate tires on a 4X4 how do you move the tires, what position?
Went out by dirt field today. Tore it up man, this truck is tuff. I have another question. Would it be bad to lean it out more in the top end if you dont do much runin in top end (so that most of your richness is in lwer gear)
also how do you change setting with gears or clutch (what ever the part) to make it go a little faster- besides messing with the richness?
Have anyof you mammoth owners had a tire out of the rtr box that kind of wobbled? How do i fix that? I think it makes a diff. in higher speed in drag to one side, and when i go slower i have to adjust the steer a gain for thta speed??????
Well i hope I gave us enough to talk about for a few post. Thanks

metalry101

06-21-2004, 11:28 PM

Rotating tires on an r/c car??? Umm, they should be directional, left side and right side. They'll bolt up either way, but the treads will face backwards if you get them on the wrong side.

Shouldn't hurt to lean it out more, but not too much. That shouldn't richen up the low end though. If you're looking to adjust the amount of fuel the engine gets at the low end, adjust the low speed needle.

If you're looking for more top speed, I think XTM offers a 15 and 21 tooth pinions to slap on the truck, but it's already geared really high, so I don't think you need that. If you're looking for more acceleration, there aren't any gearing changes you can do. In theory, XTM will be coming out w/ some gears soon, but they've been saying that for a while, and none of us on the Global Forums (XTM's distributor, and the best forums for info on XTM vehicles) are holding our breath. One option is to get the 14mm adapters and use Maxx size tires. Their smaller diameter effectively gears the truck down and lets it accelerate better.

Getting a clutch that will let the engine spool up higher before it engages will help the truck launch harder. I've heard that there is a Mugen clutch that works wonders for this. I run the Ofna Purple Medium in mine and have been happy, but I plan on ordering the Mugen when I wear this one out.

If the tire wobbles, make sure that it's screwed in all the way. If that's not the problem, the tire may not be glued on in the right place, or maybe not all the way around the rim. If you check those and it still doesn't solve the problem, check all the links. Something could be loose, allowing the whole hub carrier to wobble, or a bearing could be bad. Other than that, maybe a bent rim or a tire that just didn't mold right and is kinda lopsided.

Breakcheck

06-22-2004, 12:47 AM

Thanks bud, this will give me somthing to do while on leave. Have you guys ever checked these videos out? Copy and paste in URL. Great Vids man!
www.fiskhobbyfarm.com/video.html
Any one run nitro in KS. I will be in the Lawrence area for a while.

evaderstman

06-22-2004, 11:33 AM

those are just slapmafro vids go to there website for more and they are great vids

Breakcheck

06-26-2004, 12:21 AM

Hey guys. I have a prob. After running my tank to last 1/3 of tank I had it shut down. I checked it out, all looked good, but when i went to restart it the pull was not grabbin or turnin over the engine unless i did it slow and still it was only getin but 2 or 3 compressions. It was trying to do that for about the last 6 or so starts. I was taking out the plug making sure no fuel. But all there ever was was like a drop or two in the carb, nothing much-but I still thought it strange- and it would start. Well on this last tiem it was not turning over it was like the pull is not doing its job. So I decided to take it apart (CRAP EVERY WHERE!! :eek: ) Took about 1/2 hour to fig out how to get it back in after cleaning it- It was dirty and grungy. Same thing and I know i put it back together right. But I noticed that when i put the engine in my hand and slowed that siver thin teeth wheel down (the one they use starter box for) it was trying to crank over. I dont know much bout this hobby this is my first one, but with help of hobbypeople gurus I did every thing by the book, nothing was wrong when I last started it, nothing was wrong when i shut it down. What gives? :confused: Any one else with this or if you guys could pass it on maybe we can solve this sooner. I will prob call the hobby people shop in the morn but still hope you guys have an answer.

metalry101

06-26-2004, 12:41 AM

Well, I would say that you could have put the one-way bearing on backwards, as that would cause problems, but if you did, I don't think you'd get the engine to crank over at all, so maybe that bearing is shot??? What about the little spring inside the pullstart? I don't know what function it serves exactly, but everyone says not to lose it when you disassemble the engine, so I'd assume it does something rather important...It's relatively small, and very easy to miss when you take that off. Other than that, I don't know...can't think of anything else it could be at the moment. Good luck w/ it though...glad to hear you've had a good time so far...:D

Breakcheck

06-26-2004, 05:25 PM

Ya I think i did lose that spring, but i did find out what the one way bearing is. I sprayed it off. It had some gunk in it. put it back on and it started right up this morn. Drove pretty hard on a dirt track did lots of jumps- nothing to high, bout 2.5-3.0 feet max. eventually started doing doughnuts when i turned, thought a rock was stuck in front tire ( I saw that i lost the set screw and pin) so no more front drive-lol. took off the dog bone to save difs. so all should be fine till i get the replacement, or so i hope.
Q: Is there any care that is needed for the one way bearing? So that it wont crap the bed on me.

Thanks for the reply Metalry.

aknitroguy

07-09-2004, 06:07 AM

I have'nt seen it advertised or posted anywhere, but I just got a mammoth and it came upgraded to an aggressor radio from a lynx sport, XTM is a great company always on the ball.. Thank you kindly...

swampdemon

07-13-2004, 10:44 PM

I got my mammoth about 3 weeks ago, a gift from my wife. I love this truck, it smokes my rc10 gt and my losi xxxnt. I already upraded the radio( put in a jr xr2i)
I will post a pic of the paint job i did when i get a chance

maxboost56

08-16-2004, 09:26 PM

i got my mammoth two days ago and its huge! i love it but it gave me headaches. first i had a hard time starting the engine, then i found out that the cluth is not disengaging, to cluthbell got so hot that it burnt my two speed gears!. the clutch shoes was melted that the spring wore out too! i called XTM and they gonna send me new gears and clutch shoes. i also notice that the two speed doesnt work. maybe because of the clutch issues. i cant wait to get this badboy running again.

metalry101

08-17-2004, 12:17 AM

Ya...the stock clutch shoes are complete junk...I'd suggest the Ofna Purple Medium aluminum ones. I run them in my truck. The two speed should work for ya after you replace the clutch. And ya...I think I saw that you posted in another thread about bodies for this truck...I think MGT bodies work. Haven't tried it myself...but I've seen pics, they work a lot better than Maxx and Savage bodies.

maxboost56

08-17-2004, 07:13 PM

yah thats what i thought. the mgt is just a few inches shorter than the mammoth. im diggin the new proline body for mgt. well, hopefully i get my stuffs tomorrow so i can complete the break in and have fun with the bad boy.

maxboost56

08-17-2004, 07:32 PM

guys i need ur advice on a good super high torque servo for the mammoth. i was searching the web last night and didnt have any luck. i know airtronics makes one that makes 200+ torque. wat do u guys use?

metalry101

08-18-2004, 12:08 AM

The only other super ridiculously high torque servo I know of is a JR. I believe they make one that's about 120 bux...and puts out 260 oz/inches of torque. That'll flatten many quarter scale servos...let alone standard 1/10 size servos.

blackgtx

08-18-2004, 06:49 PM

I am using the stockblue one for steering and it works great. It is a high tourch servo if you are having problems replace the 4 bushings in the two steering posts with 6x10x3 bearings and the optional steering servo saver for the mgt. it will make a big difference. Also try adjusting you shocks.

Just remember nothing bends like a mammoth get a cage

maxboost56

08-25-2004, 09:43 PM

u guys been quiet lately. anyways, what roll cage does everybody have? i just ordered mine at ebay for 35 bucks.

69_camaro

11-10-2004, 11:08 PM

hey whats up guys iam thinking about trading my hpi micro and $$ for a xtm mammoth does any one here know when it was released and do you think it would go discontinused anytime soon

thanks all
daniel

scottm

11-23-2004, 10:47 AM

There has not been much activity here lately, are you guys still driving your mammoths? I like mine and have had no problems with the drivetrain at all. I put on the tmaxx wheel adapters and run proline 40 series bow-ties. That lowers the gearing and reduces tire weight, making it stop turn and accel much better. Plus it has the rc solutions roll cage:

https://securehost59.hrwebservices.net/~rcsolu/products/product_details.php?id=50&CID=XTM

It attaches to the chassis and bulkheads, reducing chassis flex which protects the gears.

Kmot

11-23-2004, 11:15 AM

All the discussion seems to be at the distributors forum. (Global Hobby)

thejakal

12-29-2004, 12:38 AM

I just got my mammoth and its awsome. but it allready ate up 2 spur gears so im thinking of upgrading to the steel gears,also during break-in i broke the pull rope. i know that you can use a starter box but on another forum i read thet you could use HPI's roto start dose any one know if thats true. thanks for your input.

ApriliaRacer

12-29-2004, 10:23 AM

I'm selling my Mammoth. Lets just say that while my other MTs have had issues, it seems I'm constantly working on my Mammoth. Seems I can't go hardly anytime on the track without something giving out.

Even with shimming the diff and adding longer screws, the diff clicks when hard on the brakes. Which will translate into new diff gears.

Its stripped two sets of the plastic 2-speed gears. I'm going to replace the gears and sell it.

I'm no noob to RC, been in the hobby over 20 years and currently own a Savage, LST, and MGT.

Unless someone here would like to take the roller with engine but needs gears off my hands for 150.00

vetmxer

12-30-2004, 08:54 AM

i read thet you could use HPI's roto start dose any one know if thats true. thanks for your input.
the roto-start backplate for the savage 25 engine will bolt right on to the xtm 24.7 engine

MacManInfi

01-08-2005, 03:36 PM

Yeah, the diffs seem to really be the weak spot for me. Even with shims, they still click. They're lasting longer, but still going to be a regular replacement item.

Everything else is working well though. Got the metal gears, a slipper clutch, the rotostart backplate and the MGT steering servo spring, and things seem to have settled down a bit now.

esheg4ever23

01-09-2005, 08:59 PM

hey guys,

i got my xtm mammoth on 1.4.2005 and when i was breaking it in the other day, i had it running for about 5 minutes, but then while the engine was running, being the stupid person i am right now, i lifted the cap to add more fuel, and the engine stopped. so then i attached the glow starter and whatever, and i was pulling the pull starter for the engine to start and the pull starter's string just ripped off. i took the engine out, the the backplate out and tied the string back. yes, i did do it the right way, i made shure the spring i the pull starter's backplate wouldn't rewind. so then i reattached the engine to the chassis and i was pullling the pull starter again. When i was pulling it it broke off again. :confused: i thought there was no point of reattaching it so i just came to this forum. anyways, do they sell the e z start or rotostart or something for it to start in a less painful way? any ideas before i make another stupid move
thanks

Monsterbrad

01-13-2005, 08:58 PM

I do think that ofna has a roto start for that engine look through the Car action mags they are listed in there somewhere..

doesgo

01-15-2005, 06:12 PM

Yes, OFNA has one that'll fit, and the stock Savage version will also fit on the XTM 24.7 (and the GS25 engine, too).

wyd

02-02-2005, 11:19 AM

Just picked up a new Mammoth on Tuesday and have been working on it some. Very nice and open layout. Very easy to work on compared to other Monster trucks that I have currently. I ran two tanks thru it so far and will run another one tonight. It seems like once broken in this truck will fly. My TerraCrusher rips with the 24.7 motor I have it now so I expect the same or better from the one in the Mammoth.

revoguy

02-19-2005, 11:39 PM

hey is it a good truck :confused:

swampdemon

02-20-2005, 01:20 PM

I have had my mammoth for about 7 months. This is truly a tough truck. I got a rock caught behind the throttle servo arm and hit a tree, only broke a suspension arm. I recently put an sh .28 and it screams. It smokes the old engine. The truck goes as fast in 1st gear as it did in 2nd before. It has as much torque in 2nd now that it did in 1st before. I also put in a jr xr2i radio in it, with a jr650 high torque servo in it. Put on an airbrushed body( did it myself). I really like my mammoth.

brc358

05-09-2005, 08:01 PM

A very cheap and extremely effective support for the shock towers. Buy a piece of 3/8 all thread. Drill a hole near the top of each shock tower and thread the all thread through both shock towers. Be sure and put a nut and washer on BOTH sides of each shock tower, and then snug up the nuts. If you tighten too much you will actuall bend the towers. I use this, plus the full roll cage, and the truck is indestrucktable. The after market shock towers cost anywhere from $40.00 and up, and this adjustable bar will cost you only about $3.00 It locks the shock towers to each other. Put a piece of clear rubber hose on the allthread, and you have a great handle also. B C

brc358

05-11-2005, 11:26 AM

Anyone looking for a great Mamoth Truck.
It has a 24.7 pro engine, and also stock 24.7 engine.
Lots of upgrades, and in great shape
Send me you e-mail, and I will forward some pics
brc5550@sbcglobal.net

Jamthis70

06-01-2005, 10:59 PM

Do you know which Stater Box i can use on the mammoth Yes, you can use a starterbox on it.

Jamthis70

06-02-2005, 04:29 PM

Would you happen to have a pic of what you did? do you add it to the center of the shock tower or on each side fo the shock tower Thanks for your help

Jam A very cheap and extremely effective support for the shock towers. Buy a piece of 3/8 all thread. Drill a hole near the top of each shock tower and thread the all thread through both shock towers. Be sure and put a nut and washer on BOTH sides of each shock tower, and then snug up the nuts. If you tighten too much you will actuall bend the towers. I use this, plus the full roll cage, and the truck is indestrucktable. The after market shock towers cost anywhere from $40.00 and up, and this adjustable bar will cost you only about $3.00 It locks the shock towers to each other. Put a piece of clear rubber hose on the allthread, and you have a great handle also. B C

Shortty

06-05-2005, 09:43 PM

:cool: you think that is an xtm mammoth :p i have a mammoth with a 48 engine, dual fuel tanks, alliminium speed brace, extended air filter, alliminium battery box, alliminium arms and lots more.
if you would like a picture email me (steven) (pcgamer13@hotmail.com)

So far I'm happy with my Mammoth.
It has a Sirio .27 in it and just screams.
Took it out at a USHRA Monter Truck show we had and "wow'd" the crowd...lol
Flies really nice and level.

Here is a pic of it next to my SuperMaxx Hybrid. The Hybrid has a 13 3/8" wheelbase!
http://bajabilly1.bizhosting.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/comp1.jpg
http://bajabilly1.bizhosting.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/comp2.jpg

RCfrodoRC

06-06-2005, 08:43 PM

Shortty your mammoth sounds sweet, u should post a pic with the body off so we can all check it out. :D

brc358

06-06-2005, 09:08 PM

Would you happen to have a pic of what you did? do you add it to the center of the shock tower or on each side fo the shock tower Thanks for your help

Jam
I am sorry, but I just sold the truck Sat. to someone in Japan. I had photos of the allthread, but I gave them to the new owner. What I will try and do for you is do a sketch, and down load it on my computer. I cant seem to post photos on this site, but when I get t completed, if you send me your e-mail, I can send the sketch back to you.
I took the truck to one of Hobby Peoples parking lot races, and the guys from XTM went nuts over the support.
If you can give me a day or so, I will get this done for you.
I am also designing a body mounting post that works from the inside of the body, to where there are no posts sticking out of the body at all. No more holes in the bodies, no more missed drilled holes. It works really good also.

Jamthis70

06-06-2005, 10:20 PM

Hey Thanks for Looking Out

Jam

I am sorry, but I just sold the truck Sat. to someone in Japan. I had photos of the allthread, but I gave them to the new owner. What I will try and do for you is do a sketch, and down load it on my computer. I cant seem to post photos on this site, but when I get t completed, if you send me your e-mail, I can send the sketch back to you.
I took the truck to one of Hobby Peoples parking lot races, and the guys from XTM went nuts over the support.
If you can give me a day or so, I will get this done for you.
I am also designing a body mounting post that works from the inside of the body, to where there are no posts sticking out of the body at all. No more holes in the bodies, no more missed drilled holes. It works really good also.

RCfrodoRC

06-07-2005, 05:39 PM

Hey guys wht's up. I was just wondering what kind of truck i should get. I like the mammoth and the REVO, and the mammoth is cheaper but sounds like some of the parts break easy. I don't want something that breaks easy but i want something that will tear it up and be a good price. Any suggestions. TY for the help. :D

brc358

06-07-2005, 05:48 PM

I am sorry, but I just sold the truck Sat. to someone in Japan. I had photos of the allthread, but I gave them to the new owner. What I will try and do for you is do a sketch, and down load it on my computer. I cant seem to post photos on this site, but when I get t completed, if you send me your e-mail, I can send the sketch back to you.
I took the truck to one of Hobby Peoples parking lot races, and the guys from XTM went nuts over the support.
If you can give me a day or so, I will get this done for you.
I am also designing a body mounting post that works from the inside of the body, to where there are no posts sticking out of the body at all. No more holes in the bodies, no more missed drilled holes. It works really good also.

I have the sketch for the shock tower support, if you can send me your e-mail, I will forward it yo you, my e-mail is brc5550@sbcglobal.net thkxs brc

RCfrodoRC

06-12-2005, 09:30 PM

HEY GUYS, I WAS WONDERING IF T-MAXX WHEELS FIT ON THE MAMMOTH OR IF YOU HAVE TO BUY A PEICE TO MAKE IT FIT. THXS :D

metalry101

06-13-2005, 12:16 AM

You've gotta buy adapters. They're like 45 bux. If you haven't bought this truck yet then I'd say avoid it. It's junk, parts are extremely expensive, and Global has bad business practices from what I've heard.

RCfrodoRC

06-13-2005, 12:19 PM

metalry101

06-13-2005, 01:03 PM

I don't currently own one, but I did a while back. It sucked. It was fast...and that's about it.

vegasdrift

06-14-2005, 05:19 PM

The mammoth is a great truck. Especially if you plan to race. The mammoth ST will be even better. I have one and my dad has another. My dad has an RC Solutions cage on his. We're going to test it soon at the track. For those that are having problems bending shock towers and braking body posts, install a front bumper on the rear.YOu'll have to grind down this nub( you'll know what I'm talking about if you get one) Also, RPM tmax body posts are a great investment.

Here's a pic of my mammoth after I painted to body.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/vegasdrift/rc%20cars/100_1399.jpg

metalry101

06-14-2005, 06:41 PM

I gotta admit that Mammoth ST is pretty sick looking, and with the right mods a Mammoth can be a pretty good truck, but IMO, it's got too many flaws out of the box to be a viable choice for most people. I did the front bumper on the rear trick on my Mammoth when I had it and I'll definately agree it was a 400% improvement, but the shock towers are still too weak. The RC Solutions cage is probably the best thing you can do to the truck since it stiffens up the chassis and protects the shock towers (and looks badass, I've got one on my LST). Gearing it down would also help a ton since it is so severely overgeared from the factory. A clutch that doesn't burn up during break-in is also a bonus. I dunno if that's still a problem, but I know it was when I had mine. I've heard that the diff cases have been beefed up, but back when I had mine they were weak and flexxed under load (especially under braking), causing the ring and pinion to eat each other up fairly quickly.

With some time and money invested, the Mammoth is a pretty cool truck, but I dunno, I prefer the other monsters on the market. My personal favorite is the MGT.

RCfrodoRC

06-14-2005, 07:18 PM

I really like the truck and lots of other people seem to also. But then there are people who have it and don't like it because it breaks alot. i watched alot of videos on it out of the box and read about it in mags, and the mags say it is a good truck and it can take the abuse in the videos which is more than i would put it through until i put some money in it. I want a cheap truck since im the only one in my family that likes the hobby and im 14 with no job and get an allowence of $10 a month so i think the mammoth is a good choice for me aslong as i take care of it. And i plan on selling all the crap i have now so i can buy a rollcage for it, and have money if i break something on it.

RCfrodoRC

06-14-2005, 07:21 PM

O and by the way Vegasdrift your truck is lookin pretty sweet. :D

RCfrodoRC

06-14-2005, 11:22 PM

I was wondering if a .28 engine is alot faster than the stock engine and how you break in a engine.

vegasdrift

06-15-2005, 01:11 PM

Thanks for the comment rcfrodo.

I here what you're saying Metalry. It does have a few problems. And yeah the diffcases have been beefed up and I haven't had any problems with the clutch.

A .28 will be faster. The sh .28 is a very popular choice. When you buy you're truck it'll come with a break in how to, but let me try and find a better one.

RCfrodoRC

06-16-2005, 12:05 AM

Thx for the help since i'm pretty much new to nitro and it'll be my first nitro if i get this truck.

vegasdrift

06-21-2005, 01:31 PM

Here's a popular break in method that I pulled from the global forum.

Tips, 24/7 PRO Alternative Break-in Procedures

Attempt at your own discretion. Global / XTM only recommends the Heat Cycling Procedure.

You will require a stand to set your truck where the wheels are free to rotate freely
Well charged Igniter,
Well-charged TX/RX batteries,
Brand new plug. I recommend OS 8
1 quart of 20N with 14 or less SCOB content of your choice
On board temperature gauge or Temp Gun
Mark your flywheel for Bottom Dead Center Piston Positioning

1 Follow procedure on this link for the back plate screws upgrade for a no leak fix.

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com/globalforum/viewtopic.php?p=16051#16051

2 Remove head and add a .10MM head shim. Mine came with 1- 20MM head shim.

3 Blue Loctite the head screws and tighten in a criss-cross pattern.

4 Wrap on-board sensor between the bottom two fins or take temp readings on top of the glow plug

5 Re-seat the HSNV to 3.5 turns out, LSNV to 8.5 turns out, and the ISSS to 1MM opening.
For all intent and purposes, I used Morgan Fuels “Sidewinder” 20N/12SCOB.

6 Set your truck on the stand with the body off for easy access during break-in.

7 Gas up and prime engine, attach the igniter and pull that rip cord. Remove the igniter after starting the engine.

8 Once the engine has started to run, give it a short blip and watch the temperature rise. From this time on leave the TX on but never touch again until later in the break-in period.

9 Richen on the HSNV to get a reading of 120F. At half a tank fill up and lean it to 130F.

10 Always fill up at half tanks and lean or richen at that time. Richen HSNV back to 120F, then back up to 130F. Do this cycle one more time for a total of 3 full tanks.

11 At the beginning of the 4th tank bring the temperature back down to 120F then lean the LSNV ¼ turn in.

12 Top up from half a tank and richen HSNV to 130F. Top at half tank and lean LSNV
another ¼ turn and richen HSNV to 120F.

13 Top up from half a tank and lean LSNV another ¼ turn, lean the HSNV to 130F. This would be the 5th tank full. At this point you will have 7.75 turns on the LSNV and possibly around 3.25 HSNV.

14 Blip the throttle to raise the temperature to 140F then let it go back to 130F do this 3 times on half a tank. Top up to full again at half a tank and lean HSNV to read 160F let the tank run empty on this setting.

15 Once the engine has stopped, tank up, and set piston to Bottom Dead Center, re-seat HSNV to zero and set to 2.75 HSNV. Do a 30-minute engine cool down.

16 Start your engine, blip the throttle once, remove the igniter, and let it rip. Take it easy, build up your skill slowly as this engine will surprise you. From this time on tune your engine to your liking.

RCfrodoRC

06-23-2005, 01:21 PM

wow that's a lot of stuff to follow, but thanks for the help.

RCfrodoRC

07-03-2005, 06:14 PM

i still really like this truck and have been looking for parts that would make it hold up.

BrandonVaccaro

07-09-2005, 05:24 AM

to make this easy on all the people considering the mammoth could we possibly make a list of all the weak parts on the mammoth, the solution and maybe the price to fix it ill start it

WEAK SHOCK TOWERS / CAGE/A/M shock towers/ bumpers/ not sure
WEAK CHASSY /braces/cage/ around 65

thats all i can think of i know theres somthing with the clutch bell but i forget what :confused:

ScreechMister

07-10-2005, 09:04 PM

badboy2

07-15-2005, 02:37 AM

i saw a mammoth st at my hs today its nice...and was sold 1hour after the ups guy brought it in

metalry101

07-15-2005, 02:41 AM

I have had my XTM Mammoth for over a year now and still haven't found many hop-up's for it. My first question is does anyone know if there is a company that has made any type of metal spur gears for the Mammoth? My second question, is the mammoth able to run in two wheel drive? If so, How?
XTM makes metal spur gears. They're expensive, but they're stout. As for 2WD, as long as you're running the 2-speed (eliminating the center diff that's in the single speed Xterminator), just pull the dogbone connecting the front diff to the transmission outdrive. If you want to take full advantage of the weight savings of 2WD, then pull the entire front diff and the dogbones between it and the wheels as well.

As for the Mammoth ST, I don't think I'll ever get one because parts availability around here for XTM stuff sucks, and I don't want to support Global, but I do have to admit, for 340 dollars, it looks like a helluva race truck.

badboy2

07-15-2005, 03:14 AM

yeah parts availability is important for me too..although i buy most of my stuff online i still go to hs for some parts that i need right away..

Z-tuner

07-19-2005, 01:11 PM

Just wanted to showof some pictures I took from the mammoth for a Spanish magazine, damn, there is many aluminium on it :eek:

http://www.rctotal.com/cotxe/RCTOTAL/Fotos%20cotxe%202005-07-11/DSCF3328p.jpg

http://www.rctotal.com/cotxe/RCTOTAL/Fotos%20cotxe%202005-07-11/DSCF3332p.jpg

http://www.rctotal.com/cotxe/RCTOTAL/Fotos%20cotxe%202005-07-11/DSCF3342p.jpg

http://www.rctotal.com/cotxe/RCTOTAL/Fotos%20cotxe%202005-07-11/DSCF3330p.jpg

and some action shots, the truck used for the action shots is not the PRO.

http://www.rctotal.com/cotxe/RCTOTAL/Fotos%20cotxe%202005-07-11/DSCF3391.JPG

http://www.rctotal.com/cotxe/RCTOTAL/Fotos%20cotxe%202005-07-11/DSCF3400p.jpg

http://www.rctotal.com/cotxe/RCTOTAL/Fotos%20cotxe%202005-07-11/DSCF3402a.JPG

http://www.rctotal.com/cotxe/RCTOTAL/Fotos%20cotxe%202005-07-11/DSCF3410.JPG

globaltruckin

07-21-2005, 01:30 PM

whos got the new st? how much faster than the original is it
sorry guys i haven't gotten the new mag
yet
and i dont know what happened to my subscription ooo well gotta go to hobby shop and get this new issue

vegasdrift

07-22-2005, 03:23 PM

It's actually slower, by about 5mph. Since most people wont hit 50mph on a track the optimized the gearing for more acceleration.

Jackyl

07-23-2005, 04:13 AM

Hey guys & girls :D

I've just ran across this mammoth st thing, Yeah I'm under a rock, a stadium pro rock :D Was just wondering if anyone has run one against a stadium pro? Does the 2spd really help? I drove a regular mammoth and was pretty impressed with the take off and top end, but I didn't like how it jumped. I was bashing with it not on a groomed track either. and I didn't like how the shock towers bent. But it looks like the ST has resolved some of these things. And the price hobbypeople has them for 339.99 and the stadium RR is 479.99/Pro 519.99 on tower. So the price is very VERY nice for a new rtr truggy!!

But, after looking at the truck I see things that valid that cheap price, it's not really built to the same level as a lightning rr or pro stadium is. no spherical cut gears. and the gear's 43t ring and 13t pinion same as the savage :D But the trans gears are larger than the lightning by 10t on the 12st gear. Probably alot of other things also.

Just wondering how you people rank the ST next to a lightning stadium RR or Pro, considering the Lighting is the absolute best truggy on the scene right now. :D

Ball Racing

08-01-2005, 08:19 PM

Rc Car action radar tested the original mammoth and said 52mph.
Now the St has been clocked at 48 mph.
Xtreme rc mag got 49.5 from it.
So it's not too much slower, actually faster in taller grass because the gearing the origianl truck had would just bog it down too much.

esheg4ever23

08-22-2005, 12:16 AM

Ball Racing

08-22-2005, 07:41 AM

metalry101

08-22-2005, 03:03 PM

XTM has metal gears as a upgrade.
I "had" the ST for a week, one wreck took out the whole truck,
bent the chassis broke the hinge pin holder, messed up the servo saver.
In less than a gallon of fuel the outdrive cups had deep notches in them from wear.
The stock steering servo fried before breakin was complete,
The servo saver spring cannot be adjusted tight enough to get full turn out of this truck under acceleration.
The arms are too flimsy.
Tires aren't much.
The diffs stripped some teeth off when I hit the brakes hard, and landed off a small jump on the track..
The wheel nuts welded themselves on when I tried to remove them.(no anodizing)
That hump on the bottom of chassis hangs on stuff..

The only thing I liked was seeing it haul down the paved highway, it was fast..
Damn. That's bad to hear, because I really liked the looks of the ST. I had an original Mammoth and my experience with it was quite similar to yours, but I was hoping they fixed stuff with the ST.

Here's my experience with my Mammoth.

-The diff cases flex under load allowing the ring and pinion to eat each other.
-The chassis and shock towers couldn't be much weaker if they were made from old newspapers.
-The stock steering servo fried on me after 2 tanks.
-The truck wouldn't turn at speed no matter how tight I got the servo saver.
-The rod ends on the "chassis braces" would strip and break off.
-The spur gears strip easily and cost a fortune to replace (even the plastic ones are like 10 bux)
-The body posts aren't reinforced at all, so the first time you roll the truck they're mangled, unless of course the aluminum shock tower proves to be weaker and bends first.
-The stock body is the only one that I know of that's crappy enough to give the LST body a run for it's money in the category "Weakest body in the history of the world."
-The stock clutch was completely gone after break in (just gone).
-My 17 year old, 205,000 mile Jeep stops better than my Mammoth ever did.

Basically, it was the worst truck I've ever seen. The design was pretty poor, and the materials, oh Dear God. I've seen better materials on a Daewoo. The truck is made out of the world's cheapest aluminum. Integy aluminum puts XTM aluminum to shame, it's really THAT bad. The front bumper (which I also ran in the rear) was quite good at doing it's job, but it was stronger than the aluminum chassis that it was bolted to so it was rather hopeless anyways, and I never had a single problem with the suspension arms. They seemed to be quite durable to me, but of course the gear boxes that they were attached to fell apart fairly easily, so that didn't really matter either.