Team Associated B4 buggy forum v3.0

[T4Maxx13]

Yeah. Our VEnom batts kick a$$

[ILuvMyB4]

They're my favorite for now. IF i get sponsored by GP which isnt very likely then i would have 3700's. For now my Venom's rock.

[T4Maxx13]

YAY!!! My dad is probably takin me to the track on SATurday!!!! YAY!!!! Im gonna kick a$$ with my new servo!!

[BrushlessHawaii]

They're my favorite for now. IF i get sponsored by GP which isnt very likely then i would have 3700's. For now my Venom's rock.
LMAO :D

umm You can't race 3700's and getting sponsered takes alot of talent

[microrcdude]

LOL get sponsored by GP. I was with the guys at Jax packs for a while, and they were no doubt the best team ever. I mean the owner, jack, would actually stay up to finish or rebuild my packs just so i ould go kick butt at the club races.

[ILuvMyB4]

i have lots of talent. lol. they're only illegal at ROAR tracks...
i would get them anyways for practice at the track and jump around in the front yard or out at the construction site down the street. i would have 3300's for racing until ROAR accepts 3700 cells.

[microrcdude]

You know how much other people have more talent than you but dont have sponsors?

[microrcdude]

hehe just got a call from a friend, looks like ima do one more race before callin it quits.

[ILuvMyB4]

Lucky you. I have to drive approximately 45 mins to Sacramento just to get to a track. If I were going to race, that's where I would do it, and that would only allow me to race every 2-3 weeks. It sucks big time.

[ILuvMyB4]

well...
im happy and mad at the same time. i went out to the track, but on my last pack the CVD pin came out and i got so frustrated trying to put a new one in. does anyone have any tips to make this a lot easier???

[microrcdude]

ya, take the CVD completely out, and clean it. Everytime a pin comes out i buy the MIP CVD tune-up kit.

[T4Maxx13]

Ha. BuggyMan, u, talent? PSHHH yeah right. JK JK. U and i both did good. We wooped on some Duracraps (one had a Novak Brushless) and we still whooped him. LOL shows you what companes are good i guess.

[ILuvMyB4]

ya. ok. i'll try that. i did clean it out but i didnt want ot buy the entire tune up kit.

[microrcdude]

It has NOTHING to do with the car. Its all in the driver.

And ben im tired of hearing you bash other companies

[redsixer]

I am looking for a good street tire to run on my B4 when Im bashing around the house. I have been using hole shots that are too worn out to race with anymore, but I want something to grip the street better. What do you guys recommend?

[tarvymoto]

I am looking for a good street tire to run on my B4 when Im bashing around the house. I have been using hole shots that are too worn out to race with anymore, but I want something to grip the street better. What do you guys recommend?

Pro-line dirt hawg rear tires are great for bashing

[microrcdude]

Ive had those tires for 6-7 years, and they hardly show signs of wear. I think they will last another 5 years then i may replace them.

[60mphtc4]

big associated fan any one running the novak 5800 i am and i love it makrs my b4 faster than a ten turn brushed motor

[microrcdude]

I like brushed motors better. I like to rebuild my motors hehe.

[jaymz_99502]

Here's the scoop i was doing some investigating and came across the the lehner 5300 and a schulze u-force75 for my FTB4..
I was wondering has anyone here used this combo in thiers and is it a good combo for the b4 any ifo would help lots thnx..

[microrcdude]

sounds fine. I know my friend used that in his old T3. Im sure its going to be a great combo if you can find the right gearing.

[LearjetMinako]

Its been a very LONG time since I posted here. Been very busy working and paying bills. Finally I got my spark back to race R/C's once again. Catching up on new news and products. I see Novak came out w/ a better Brushless system. Sad for me, since finally my SS5800 saw race dirt for the first time on last Sunday. Been tuning and tweaking the FTB4 to handle better and getting my battery packs up to date. So far, I've got some new equipment which I like. 1.Duratrax ICE 2.GP3700 Pack 3.Dirt Hawg tires 4.A new bulb discharger (last one got crushed by my toolbox). Hopefully, if weather permits, I'll be racing on Saturady night.

One thing that does bother me some. It seems off-road racing has died. Everybody is only doing dirt oval. Even on-road racing is dead at the LHS. I believe there are what 9 different classes. When I race, I'll probably be in sprints or sport-truck class (since I'm the only buggie driver).

Nice to be back. :D

[LearjetMinako]

Well, so much for Saturday night racing. The place was jammed packed. I couldn't find a single spot to work at. Even the floors were taken. Only place left was the back bed of my Ranger. And becuase of the classes being there, I was unable to enter. Bummer, dang oval, bring back the true off-roading.

Here are the classes that race OVAL:
1. Novice (open to every vechile)
2. Elec Latemodel
3. Nitro Latemodel
4. Elec Sports-Truck
5. Nitro Sports-Truck
6. Elec Sprinters
7. Nitro Sprinters
8. Monster Truck

Off-road:
"Not a single one" but there is a track for it

[scoob]

:confused: I've got a brand new FTB4. I have a question. The front wheel mounting scew is different from what I'm used to. If I tighten it down, it adds drag to the wheels. If I back off, I'm afraid the scew will back out and the wheels will come off. I'd also lose the tiny screw which would be a pain. What do you guys do?

[LearjetMinako]

I didn't have a problem w/ drag. But the screw does strip out easily. What I did is I used a elec. motor comm. spacer (the little plastic disk) and a extra aluminum to hold the front wheels. So far, it works. Also helps keep the outside bearing stay clean. And the bigger allen size means it doesn't strip out as much.

[microrcdude]

what i would do is get the same front axles as on the B4 team kit, because those dont strip at all.

[microrcdude]

For my 3,800th post on this forum, i thaught i would try to bring back this forum. Bump.

So, anyone out there with a B4?

[gizmoguy303]

I just bought a FT B4. :D

[microrcdude]

Really? Dude, thats so cool! More and more people are picking up B4's, its making me a happy man.

[Legend_Car]

hey guys i just got a b4 stealth kit and i can find bag H with the bearings and such for the tires is it in another bag or am i misplacing it?

[kentetsu]

I just came back from Singapore with a FT B4.... stayed up all night the first day back building it.... got to finish painting the body. I am so hanging to take it out for it's first run.

[microrcdude]

B4's are awesome.

Legend, they should be with the rest of the bearings. Call Associated if you still cant find them and they should send you some and some stickers free of charge

[kentetsu]

Just finished painting the body, the colour scheme didn't turn out quite like I expected... still I am pretty happy... I will post some pics here shortly

[Legend_Car]

thats what my lhs guys said so im gonna do that otherwise im happy with it

[microrcdude]

kentetsu, you better post that B4! Im B4 crazy!

Legend_Car, see, im right! Im glad all is well with your guy's B4's

[kentetsu]

Finally got my digital camera out and snapped a few pics... unfortunately the lighting in the room is a bit yellow. Also this is my first attempt at painting a body with more than one colour, what does everyone think?

[Legend_Car]

well...
im happy and mad at the same time. i went out to the track, but on my last pack the CVD pin came out and i got so frustrated trying to put a new one in. does anyone have any tips to make this a lot easier???


this is easy just allign the holes and drop the pin in takes me 20 seconds tops

[Legend_Car]

B4's are awesome.

Legend, they should be with the rest of the bearings. Call Associated if you still cant find them and they should send you some and some stickers free of charge


do you know the 800 number to call or is it an 800 number. i got a sheet that you can fax with your recipt (man i cant spell) will that work. im waiting on the airtronics reciever for my mx-3 then im gonna tear it up at my lhs awesome dirt track.

[RHughes103]

Finally got my digital camera out and snapped a few pics... unfortunately the lighting in the room is a bit yellow. Also this is my first attempt at painting a body with more than one colour, what does everyone think?

Looks good to me kentetsu. Just painted my first body about a month ago. Kept it a simple two-tone.

[kentetsu]

Looks good to me kentetsu. Just painted my first body about a month ago. Kept it a simple two-tone.

Hey there, looking good RHughes103 - I am pretty new to RC... only been in it for about 6 months, I had a brief introduction to it many years ago, but for some reason or another I didn't get into it until just recently... first car was a Tamiya Baja King, which I still have... love the b4 so much more tho, it's just so nimble and quick...

What are you running in the way of motor and esc?

[RHughes103]

Hey there, looking good RHughes103 - I am pretty new to RC... only been in it for about 6 months, I had a brief introduction to it many years ago, but for some reason or another I didn't get into it until just recently... first car was a Tamiya Baja King, which I still have... love the b4 so much more tho, it's just so nimble and quick...

What are you running in the way of motor and esc?

Well it's my first car, just went with the parts recommended by Tower for this one. Monster Stock Pro motor, Duratrax Streak ESC. Though I think I have it overgeared as the motor does get extremely hot... next paycheck heh.

[microrcdude]

What gearing do you have?

[RHughes103]

What gearing do you have?

Using a 23T pinion atm. Gonna drop it down a couple teeth when I get some free cash.

[microrcdude]

thats why. Try a 21, i found thats the best pinion for a monster.

[kentetsu]

I am running a duratrax 8T Racing ESc and an LRP 11x4 V10 spec3 motor... with a Venom 3600 NiMh stickpack. What's this like for a setup... not sure what to compare it with as I am new to RC and this is what my LHS sold me.

[microrcdude]

Sounds pretty dang awesome! Doesnt the manual have a gearing chart?

[kentetsu]

I have got a 19t pinion in it at the moment but I am also experimenting with 16t to 21t... man the car is a rocket, and as I am pretty new to it all, I am thinking of sticking in a bit of a slower motor, so that I can learn to handle the car a little better first.... as much fun as it is to go super fast there's not much point if you can't keep it on the track. What do you think? Do you have any recommendations for something a little bit more moderate.

[RHughes103]

I have got a 19t pinion in it at the moment but I am also experimenting with 16t to 21t... man the car is a rocket, and as I am pretty new to it all, I am thinking of sticking in a bit of a slower motor, so that I can learn to handle the car a little better first.... as much fun as it is to go super fast there's not much point if you can't keep it on the track. What do you think? Do you have any recommendations for something a little bit more moderate.

A 27 turn stock motor is a good place to start. Like a Trinity Monster Stock, or an AE/Reedy MVP Stock. Both in the $25-35 range. And it never hurts to have one if you decide to race in the stock class. I'm not familiar with many other manufacturers, but it's a good bet they all make some kind of stock offering.

[kentetsu]

A 27 turn stock motor is a good place to start. Like a Trinity Monster Stock, or an AE/Reedy MVP Stock. Both in the $25-35 range. And it never hurts to have one if you decide to race in the stock class. I'm not familiar with many other manufacturers, but it's a good bet they all make some kind of stock offering.

Thaks for that.. sounds like a good idea to me... the 11turn is just a bit on the powerful side for my skill level at the moment. I think I will look into picking something up like that.

[Quad Racer]

I have the FT b4 with a revoloution 9x2 in it and I am using trinity 3300 it keeps up with most 8 scales at my rack not bad for a electric and last about as long as they due on a tank of nitro I will post some pics of it soon.

[microrcdude]

Then i take it that its a pretty tight course?

[guver]

Can someone here (in this forum) please do me a favor and check the length on the battery compartment? thanks

possibly see if 7 cells will fit? or get me a measurement? thank you.

[microrcdude]

5 1/8" is how long it is, and no, a 7 cell wont fit unless you get creative. Its possible though, all you need is a hump battery and some material

[guver]

Ok, thanks. I was curious to do it with cells all flat. I will look into the t-4.

[microrcdude]

T4 is better for holding batts and stuff, so you made a good choice

[trilerian]

well, I finally get to join the ranks of the b4. Bought a ft, novak gts esc, mhs, and spektrum radio. This thing is a rocket! My t4 has now been officially designated as the bashing truck. Only thing is I am soooo tempted to put the brushless in my b4. But graphite parts break easier and cost more than plastic. Anyways, love the car and the compliments (people keep asking "are you sure you are running a stock motor"). I now have only two more cars to get. Ft tc4 and the bj4. that will be next year though.

[microrcdude]

Yeah, crazy how fast a B4 goes with a fresh stock motor. i was pulling fast enough times to be in mod when the LHS was still up

[Nitro Babe]

Do any of you know if someone makes a clamping type of shock collar for the B4.
I have the kit (not factory team) so the shocks have spacers. I also got the optional spring kits but notice the optional front springs are not as long as the ones that come stock.

Thanks

[microrcdude]

Since the shocks are the same as what comes on the B3, B2, and so on, any collars to fit AE shocks will work.

I know HG makes some, the part number is 5210

[Nitro Babe]

Since the shocks are the same as what comes on the B3, B2, and so on, any collars to fit AE shocks will work.

I know HG makes some, the part number is 5210


WOW THAT WAS FAST!!!!!!

Thanks Microdude.

[microrcdude]

Your welcome, if youve got any more questions, just give me a holler

[johannsy]

My New AE B4
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/B4/CIMG0040.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/B4/CIMG0042.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/B4/CIMG0043.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/B4/CIMG0041.jpg

[microrcdude]

DAANG! that is sweet dude!
wheres the naked pics at?

[2fast2slow]

Are there any parts to make it handle better

[microrcdude]

Depends on surface.

[gizmoguy303]

Are there any parts to make it handle better

Anyone with driving skill can be very competitive with the stock kit. It's all in the set-up.

[microrcdude]

i think what hes building it for is to make it for insane speeds. If you want to handle better, go with a T4.

[microrcdude]

where da other B4 owners at?

[rikgao]

eh, i know this may be a newb question, but does the RC10B4 go well on grass/ uneven terrain? Does any electric buggy of this class go well on grass, sand and dirt? I'm really interested in the RTR kit.

Thanks eveyone

[gizmoguy303]

Any 1/10 electric buggy is not going to like running in the grass for an extended period of time. Sand and dirt make up many racetracks and that is what the B4 is designed for, so it won't have any problem with that. I would get a truck and gear a tooth or so lower if you are planning on running in grass alone, however.

[centextom]

Hi Yall, Im pretty bad when it comes to gearing, and I just bought a LRP Brushless to put in my b4. The pinion and spur wont touch so I got an 87 tooth spur gear, and I need to know what pinion to use, and how to arrive at that number. THX From Texas!!

[Got Dirt]

Been racing a XXXt and would like to try a buggy. How do the two compare as far as durability, quality. The Losi is a little out of my price range.

Thanks

[GT Freak]

check this out....love the second to last vid, but take alook at there tracks and ideas...


http://www.rc54.com/video.htm

[slaf]

How does a good 19T compare to the stock RTR 15T ??

[microrcdude]

hands down, a good 19t like the reedy quad mag is much faster than the stock 15t.

[tl01dude03]

I just finished building my b4, but I have a problem with one of the CVD drives. The joint doesnt seem to move smoothly at all, and changing the tightness of the setscrew does nothing. Also, there seems to be a loud click in the gearbox, and it is easily felt when the gearbox is turned by hand. It most likely is coming from the cvd, but is there anything else that can cause this?
Thanks,
Mike

[microrcdude]

its probably because the pin in the CVD isnt in all the way. Make sure their balanced and in there perfectly, or else they tick against the suspension arm

[tl01dude03]

The pin is al the way in, and i have messed with tightness of the set screw, but the joint is really stiff and hard to move.

[microrcdude]

WAIT! i got it. are you using the spacers that came with the kit that go between the pin on the axle to the axle carrier? If you dont have that that would explain the noise

[tl01dude03]

Yeah those are in there...its almost like the mip drives arent made correctly. one works perfect, but the other doesnt mont to move smoothly, it is veeeeeery stiff, and changing how tight the setscrew is changes nothing.

[microrcdude]

maybe a balls loose in the diff? Id check the diff.

[tl01dude03]

Ill check that later tonight, when i have time to tear it down. But what should i look for in the mip drive joint that would cause it to bind?

[microrcdude]

any sort of debris.

[tl01dude03]

none. :(

[deedlit]

maybe you got some locktite in the cvd it self that for sure would make it hard to move .. Your supose to locktite the set screw itself.

[tl01dude03]

Got a chance to take it to pieces tonight. IT appears as if some locktite has made its way into the joint itself, and it is making it impossible to get the pin out. Any itdeas on how to coerce that thing out?

[jnegrx]

You can heat the part with a heatgun and this will soften a bit the locktite. Dont overheat the CVD as het can make the metal softer and you can bend the CVD if you are not carefull. Use a vise so you have yuor hands free to work. If the heat is not enough use another pin to push the stuborn one out.

[tl01dude03]

Tried everything to get the stupid thing out, including heat gun, vise, and much banging. The solution that worked: Holding the CVD over the stove flame with a pair of pliers, waited about 5 minutes, and the locktite burned off. The CVD works good as new!

[tl_ke_racer]

anyone know what the b4/t4 rs(race spec) rtr's are? like whats special about them?

[ErikRC10]

I don't have one but all I know is that they have different rear tires and different motor. It's not as low of a turn but I think it's a little hotter. also the body has a different paint job. it looks a lot better then the old one. It doesn't look so rtr I'm a beginer

[microrcdude]

yeah its just improved a little bit, really not worth the money if you plan on upgrading your car right away

[ErikRC10]

oops I ment to say it doesn't look so "I'm a beginer" not yea... it made it sound like I was a beginer

[microrcdude]

thats fine, i dont look at people as "noobies" or "Beginners"

[winning edge designs]

To be learning each time out we all should be acting like we need to know more, not only racers who know everything there is to know. I know I learn something each time out.

:), Jim

[ErikRC10]

lol yea there's still plenty of stuff I don't know. I learn something everytime I go to the track. like that my slipper was to tight so it loosened my diff and that I need to put softer springs in the rear.

[Helgaiden]

Just got a b4, waiting for it to come in the mail. I have mostly stick packs and after seeing a few pictures became concerned (my two best stick packs are matched 3300s from integy with deans connectors, mind you).

I was just wondering if stick picks fit in the b4. I would hate to have to convert my sticks to something that would fit.

[ErikRC10]

Stick packs fit perfectly fine. I actually use 3300 stick packs in mine and they fit fine. When I get some money though I'm gonna pick up some IB4200's.

[WonkaBalls]

When the RC10B4 RS comes out I think i'm going to buy it and im just wondering what would be the best battery pack to get for it if i just keep it stock?

Thanks.

[Helgaiden]

You mean this?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMGM6&P=0

thats pretty cool.

[ErikRC10]

every battery except some lipo's should fit in the B4 without modification. you might have to trim the foam insert in the battery tray with some higher mah batteries if in stick pack form but that's all.

[WonkaBalls]

that really didnt answer my question at all? there are many different batteries and prices for them. non-lipo, im just wondering which is the best battery to use? like 3000mAh? 3200mAh? 4200mAh? i dont know whats best that fits...

[ErikRC10]

OHHHH! Okay I see what you're asking now. I think.... I still might be confused on what you are asking but if your asking what I think you are any of those batteries will work fine. The 4200's will cost more then say 3300's but the 4200's will give you longer runtimes and maybe a little better performance. I would deffinetly say that 4200's are worth it. You might actually might want to wait a little bit until the 4300's come out and get those but most likely you're not gonna notice that extra 100mah's.

[WonkaBalls]

Thanks. When do 4300's come out? and who makes them?

[WonkaBalls]

what about Team Orion Rocket Stick Pack IB3800 V-Max 7.2V?

[ErikRC10]

Ummm... Well I know Orion will is coming out with 4300's and I'm pretty sure Trinity will to. I'm not quiet sure when they come out but not to long. The Orion IB3800 V-max stick packs should work perfect I haven't seen them but you will get plenty of runtime from them (about as much as you can get without going to lipo) and you don't have to worry about soldering them because they are stick packs.

[microrcdude]

i had a little bit of trouble getting some 3800's in the B4 batt tray, you may have to trim the sides a bit

[ErikRC10]

yea some ppl have had problems with 3800's and 4200's fitting in there B4 but it was only because the battery bars stuck out to much. most battery bars don't have this problem but dean's battery bars seem to not fit in the B4 with higher capicity batteries.

[auto2]

My brand new B4 has the lightened dif cups on it and they wore out in 40 minutes. What caused this ? what is the fix?

[ErikRC10]

diff cups?? do you mean diff outdrives?

[d4man]

A couple quick questions...Is this out of a Factory Team B4 kit? If so, is the left outdrive worn more than the right? If so, take apart and replace them with the regular kit outdrives. Associated had a bad batch of the left side outdrives.

[WonkaBalls]

On my stock RTR B4, what kind of speed could i expect if i drop a Sphere and Neo-one 2 star into it with stock gearing? Im just using 6cell batts.

Thanks.

[winning edge designs]

Wonkaballs, I would guess about 30mph, maybe a couple more mph with good batteries if the bearing are all in good shape, etc.

...Jim
JConcepts dot net

[WonkaBalls]

really? thats it? what does it do with the stock motor?

[winning edge designs]

With the stock motor I clocked my sons at 21 mph, so the brushless would be about 50% faster.

:), Jim
JConcepts dot net

[WonkaBalls]

but i should have much more torque then with the stock motor right?
by the way, how does your son like the b4?

[Maxxcrazy]

What gearing should I use for an Epic Binary 2 outlaw stock motor?

[ErikRC10]

WonkaBalls:You should easily get over 30mph. More along the lines of 40. I have a 12X2 that I normally run in my B4 and I easily break 30 and the 2* is suppose to be equivialnt to a 11T and I've heard several people say it's faster then there 9t's. I actually have the 2* but I'm waiting on the my esc. The Sphere Comp is on back order other wise I would know for sure but I don't. I would expect some where around 40mph out of it though.

[WonkaBalls]

thanks alot for the info!
it is ok if i leave the gearing stock right?
i wouldnt have to worry about overheating or anything would i?

[ErikRC10]

I don't know what is the stock gearing? but I usually run anywhere from a 17-21 pinion on my 12X2 depending what track I'm racing at and just how I feel day. I would sugest prolly a 18 or 19 tooth pinion though.

[WonkaBalls]

what would be the difference between using a 19t pinion opposed to using like a 14t pinion?

[ErikRC10]

a 19t pinion would give you more top speed. a 14t pinion would give you crazy acceleration. it would be so under geared it would prolly overheat the motor. Plus the lowest you can gear with the B4 without switching to a larger spur gear is a 16t pinion and it berally meshes correct.

[WonkaBalls]

so you would suggest a 19t pinion with the stock spur if i was to go brushless so i dont overheat the motor?

[ErikRC10]

For the 1* I would say a 21 or lower pinion and for the 2* a 19 or lower. the 3* and 4* would just be pointless in a B4 so don't even think about it.

[WonkaBalls]

isnt the 2* more powerful then the 1*?
why would you suggest a higer pinion for the 1*, wouldnt you want a higher pinion for the 2* becasue it already has more torque?

[ErikRC10]

no the 2* has more topspeed and less torque then the 1*. The lower the turn the more topspeed and less torque it has. This is only true to a certain extent though because a stock motor wouldn't have more torque then a 12t would.

[WonkaBalls]

which would you suggest the 1* or 2*?

[ErikRC10]

it depends if you are racing or not. if it's a big high traction track I would say the 2* and if it's a smaller track or would say the 1*. if you are just bashing I would go with the 2* because it will be faster and will probably have more fun with it but a 2* on some tracks would just be to fast and not fun.

[WonkaBalls]

yeah, im not going to be racing, just bashing. i was thinking the 2* would be better too. thanks.

[microrcdude]

Well guys, MY LOCAL TRACK RE-OPENED! Thats right, the B4 is comming out of the crvises. I plan to re-vamp its looks, get some new power, and get that sucker out there! And sorta off-topic, but my old back-up car...my B3....is going to be raced by my brother, who will soon get a B4 of his own!

[winning edge designs]

More tracks is always good!

have fun with your brother, sounds like a great time at the track!

...Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[TunaCan Charlie]

Let's bump it back up....

Just got my B4 "Race Spec" in the mail yesterday. Soon as it stops raining (maybe Sunday) I'll let ya know what I think.

Anyone else get one yet? Please post!

[Novak76]

i got the b4 kit in last week after an insane backorder delay. i got it all toghter just to find out my race packs wont fit (deans pro bars 2.0). so now im waiting on new battery bars. so i used a sport pack in it to test in my street and my daughter ran it over with her bicycle lucky nothing broke.

[TunaCan Charlie]

I am actually laughing out loud!!! Are we related Novak?

I went to hang with the bashing buddies, spankin' new B4 RS in hand. Been pouring rain FOREVER here in New England, but I charged up the IB 3600's anyway. Had to try it out!!!! Ran it around inside for a good hour, deftly avoiding obstacles, keepin' it SLOW. Finally, after a few brews, my friend talked me into a speed run out in the street. Knew it was probably trouble, but I was itchin'. Two minutes fun = $60 ! Fried the @$#!! speed control !!! (whisps of smoke, smells like the GI Joe you torched when you were 8). AAAARRRRGGGHHHH!!! I smell another E-Bay auction....

[Novak76]

ah the good ol smell of burnt GI Joe's, good times. friends, alcohol and an rc car you know the car is gonna end up broken. hahaha. sounds like its time for a water proof speed control.

[ErikRC10]

lol yeah I agree it sonds like you need a water proof esc. LRP makes several very good water proof speed controlers. I would look into it.
Deans bars don't seem to fit well in any of my AE cars. Well off-road atleast. I had to literally shuve it into my T3. I don't know about the B4 though. The FT is backordered forever and I don't have the money anymore. Maybe I will by the time it comes.. Good thing the LHS lets me make payments on stuff.

[winning edge designs]

Tunacan, I have a C2 Novak up on Ebay, may be overkill for bashing though......haha.

...Jim
JConcepts dot net

[TunaCan Charlie]

It's been awhile since last post and a few changes to the Race Spec have taken place.

I figgered that if I want a decent speed control, its going to cost a hundred. Since I was going that high, I figgered $170 really was not that much more. AND, if I bought a really good ESC, I would of course have to buy a really good motor.

And so I continued to rationalize until I coughed up $240 for the Novak GTB/ Velociti 5.5 combo from Tower.

I've since realized something- 2WD Buggies with that much go-go don't hook up for beans! Especially not with the stock pin tires on pavement. SO...I bought a pair of Proline Road Hawgz II. Of course, I learned that those tires will not fit onto 2.2 Buggy rims. SO...I bought a pair of 2.2 truck rims...yada yada.

Long story short....this thing screams!!! She launches hard and straight, and no longer does spin-outs when I hit the brakes. And it doesn't hurt that those fat tires make it look obscene! (no, I won't be racing with those tires)

I don't know top speed, but with the 20 tooth/ 48 pitch pinion I put on, the motor barely gets warm after running three 3600 packs.

Sorry 'bout being long-winded.... :D

[winning edge designs]

Wow, and to think I didn't get a bid on my starting price of $38 for a perfect Cyclone 2, LOL!

...Jim
jconcepts dot net

[TunaCan Charlie]

Wow....a whole month goes by without a post.

Anyone still drive B4's? :confused:

[ErikRC10]

lol yup finally got my FT B4 it's all put together and runs. If it doesn't rain I will be going to the local nitro track with a friend that just bought a Jammin and I'm gonna see if I can keep up with the 1/10th nitro stadium trucks. I'm only running a 19T so I prolly wont be able to but I'll try. When ever Orion comes out with there brushless I will put that in my TC3 and put the brushless system from my TC3 in my B4.

[ErikRC10]

oh I just thought of a good reason why nobody has posted on here....

because B4's are such good cars nobody has had any problems with them.

[TunaCan Charlie]

oh I just thought of a good reason why nobody has posted on here....

because B4's are such good cars nobody has had any problems with them.

Good point Eric, good point!

I have a friend with a nitro Rustler. He's beside himself that I blow past him with my B4. He,he,he... :D

[winning edge designs]

We finished 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th at our last state race with the FTB4!

:D, Jim
jconcepts dot net

[novellahub]

I will be taking out my FTB4 out at he local track again. This is my second B4 and they work great! I will have to make the most of it since the track will be closing the end of August. 3 tracks in my area have closed this year :(

[ErikRC10]

lol Losi has made...... 3 different versions of the XXX and still none of them can keep up with the B4.

It seems like most all the tracks have been closing down except for those few that are doing really well.

[winning edge designs]

We have had alot of tracks close due to the noise from the gas cars....

4 tracks total, including Minnreg where the worlds were held not long ago!

It will come back around, it always does!

...Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[ErikRC10]

Really Minnreg closed?? That was one of the tracks on my list of that I have to go to some day... Well hopefully it will open back up.

[microrcdude]

yeah cause some guy that lives next to it in a trailer complained too much. the club from it is still alive, they found another track to race at.

[TunaCan Charlie]

What have you guys broken on your ride and had to replace?

Did you replace w/ stock?

Was the part that you broke stock?

Just thought this might be an interesting read. :rolleyes:

[ErikRC10]

Well I still haven't gotten to drive my FT B4 yet so nothing on it. On my old B4 (none Ft) I broke front A arms like crazy! I always replaced them with regular ones. I should have replaced them with FT because they are suppose to be stronger. I broke one front shock tower. I have no clue how I did it though because the car never fliped... but I couldn't see the car either but the spot was to small for it have flipped in so I dunno what happened... but I also replaced it with stock shock tower. I also broke a couple of front steering blocks and replaced with stock. I've also broken one bulkhead and that's all that I've broken I think. And that's 2 years of running the same car. By then most of the parts had great slop in them I sold it to a friend of mine and really liked it. He then sold it on ebay and the guy emailed him back and said that he loved it so even though it is old and worn it was still lovable! lol man did that sound weird....

[TunaCan Charlie]

I only broke one front A before I went to a pair of aluminum. I broke a rear last week, so I'm waiting for the new aluminum rear A arms in the mail. Three weeks ago, I snapped the front end clean off! Cracked right through a woven carbon fiber front bulkhead (top plate) and the chassis. I would have gone carbon fiber on the chassis if if the 3 LHS's in my area had one between 'em. Bent a turnbuckle and broke the ball end, so I went wih the titanium. My wing is quite funky, I'll get a new one when I get the chance. Considering the abuse I've heaped on this buggy, its incredibly resilient! I've done cartwheels at 40+ MPH, only to have it land on its wheels and keep going. :D

[microrcdude]

i really dont like the aluminum arms, as if you hit them hard enough they will bend. Do you just bash or race?

[winning edge designs]

AND, with aluminum arms, you could snap your front end clean off, rather then breaking a $4 plastic arm!

:D, Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[TunaCan Charlie]

AND, with aluminum arms, you could snap your front end clean off, rather then breaking a $4 plastic arm!

:D, Jim
Jconcepts dot net

Funny you should mention....

Did that! Snapped front of chassis clean off ($25 for a new plastic one at LHS), snapped woven carbon fiber top plate (stupid $30 hop-up) clean in two. Arms still look SWEET though...LOL!

Wierd hit though, plastic arms wouldn't have mattered. Hit dead-on in the front on the oversize RPM bumper. I really didn't hit that fast. :confused:

[microrcdude]

the only part ive broken was the front bulkhead....and thats only cause it was one of the original B4's before they revised the bulkhead design. But i called AE and they replaced it and now i havent broken anything.

[winning edge designs]

Cool, the B4 is a very durable car, especially for what we put them thru!

:), Jim
JConcepts dot net

[microrcdude]

i love my B4 so much, and i cannot believe how durable this car is. There was one session where 6 t-maxxes and i were going at it, and i lost a wing and a body, but thats normal proline crap, anyway, they landed on me, drove right over me, even took me out, and i only broke a front bulkhead....Once i order a J Concepts body this thing will be unbrekable!

[winning edge designs]

;)!!!



...Jim
JConcepts dot net

[TunaCan Charlie]

What does a J Concepts body have over a stock one? :confused:

[winning edge designs]

Style! But also.....

Most of the A/E team drivers use it because they feel a handling difference.

Mostly just another option, for most club racers, or bashers, there are alot of good looking bodies out there to choose from.

...the JConcepts B4 illuzion also comes with a standard and a High downforce wing. 2 wings included!

:D....Jim
JConcepts dot net

[microrcdude]

didnt hara use the illuzion

[winning edge designs]

Yes, 6 of the 7 A/E cars in the A main at the worlds used the B4 illuzion, including Hara!

I'm not sure when I turned into a salesman, haha, but I do think we are among the best and people need to know about other choices they have! I think my enthusiasm for what we do ends up sounding like a sales pitch. I just really dig what we're doing and hope others do too!

...Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[ErikRC10]

lol Jconcepts is deffinetly the best even though I don't own any thing from ya'll. My next body will deffinetly be the TQ Iluzion body. Comes with 2 HD wings and a front spoiler. Who knows when I will ever need a new body though I swear to god it wont rain all week but as soon as saturday roles around it rains like crazy. I've still only got to run a pack and a half through my brand new FT B4 and I haven't gotten to run my TC3 with my brushless system either, and only once with a stock motor in it.

If I one day live some where near a track that is more competitive and popular I would really like to get a BJ4. Just there is no "real" tracks around here or atleast for electrics so it would be pretty pointless to buy one even though I really want one. lol

I also feel like I am acting lake a sales person sometimes. I agree when you are really enthusiastic it makes you should like it's a sales pitch.

[microrcdude]

Heh i love the J-Concepts stuff so much....i plan on buying a FT T4 just to drop the J Concepts body on it (well not the only reason but its up there) and i plan on getting a BJ4 depending on how i do next season. Hey if u guys ever got any bodies or prototype stuff i know someone you can send it to lol.

Second, ive got a really good tip for all those who drive their B4's alot...Replace the upper shock mounting bolts with 4-40 x 3/4 Stainless steel or Titanium button head screws. I kept bending the stockers and today i baught the stainless units and they didnt even budge yet.

[winning edge designs]

True, the stainless screws are also really good if you race on a track prepped with Calcium Chloride. Since this material when damp causes corrosion to all the hardware on the car!

Thanks for the good words!

Btw, We won the Nats, 1st, 2nd and 3rd in 4w Modified wiht Jared Tebo at the wheel!

A/E won 2w and truck also top three spots!!!



...Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[TunaCan Charlie]

Second, ive got a really good tip for all those who drive their B4's alot...Replace the upper shock mounting bolts with 4-40 x 3/4 Stainless steel or Titanium button head screws. I kept bending the stockers and today i baught the stainless units and they didnt even budge yet.

He he he...

Just bought a bag of replacement stockers for that very thing today! Anyone have a spare rear shock tower in their pocket? :p

[novellahub]

I currently run with the B4 Illuzion body at my local track. I don't use the high downforce wing since the track is outdoors and is a pretty tight layout. When I ran outdoors with the big wing it seemed to catch the wind too much and would affect the jumping action. I did use the high downforce wing on a high bite and large indoor track with great success.

[microrcdude]

so today i realized that my stock body doesnt fit... the ESC is a little too high for the body....does the J Concepts bodies have higher "side pods" or no?

[winning edge designs]

Novellahub, We also have a front wing, it isn't very big, but it does help with some added front downforce and a few grams of weight added up front as well for steering. There are 5 wings that fit the B4 available, including the front one. :)

Microrcdude, We have an illuzion B4 body, #0001 that has side scoops, but I don't think they are higher then the stock ones? Our body does flare up in back a little for better aerodynamics, which may help with added room slightly.
Is your speedo a sport model, or a racing one? Maybe you can turn it so the heat sinks face the center of the chassis?

We have run brushless LRP speed controls with the heatsink and we cut out the area where the heatsink is, for more clearance and added airflow!

:), Jim
Jconcepts dot net

[microrcdude]

i run a hitec HFX in all my racing rides. I never thaught about cutting it out, wow thats an awesome idea considering the areas i race at are pretty warm. Ive got the heatsinks facing the chassis. if i can ill take a pic of it

[LearjetMinako]

I'm back, after a year later. :D

I lost my spark in R/C after a major incident in my life. But after making a purchase at HobbyTown USA with the Team Losi MLST. Something came back to me. I dug out my bigger buggies and cars, and wow. I forgot how fast these babies were. Now I'm trying to play catch up and get back in track. Brushless motors got even more crazier. Li-po are finally coming at affordable cost. And Ni-MH are getting in the 4200+ range.

I decided to get back into the B4 and stick to it. I know 4 battery pack are as good as dead. Fortunely the 2 Fusion race packs are still in very good shape. Sunday I'll try to see whats going on at the LHS and get some much needed pratice in.

[TunaCan Charlie]

Welcome back Learjet! :D

[LearjetMinako]

Thanx :cool:

Went through what supplies I had to figure out what I needed. Of course all my B4 tires are bald or either badly worn. Only the Dirt Hawgs were in any good condition. Went to the LHS and bought a rear set of Pro-Line Boe-tie M3 and a set of Pro-line Hole Shot R3 for racing. Also a front set of Pro-Line Inside Job M3. Wanted to try something different then just ribs for the front.

Also I guess when I was out. Blue-Groove Oval became a very big thing. Last time I practiced, the track was a 50/50 mix of a small oval and off-road. Now the entire track is a big oval and only the center part is a very ran down off-road track. So I guess I need to setup for high speed oval. Good thing I still have a working Novak SS5800. And probably need some more tires.

Also Team Orion has a 4800 Li-Po pack for $119.99. :D I almost bought it but had to remember to take it easy on the wallet. Plus its not allowed in racing yet. Next time around. :D

[TunaCan Charlie]

What are you running for gears and such with the 5800?

I just put Dirt Hawgz wide front buggies on with the full size (truck rear) 2.2 Dirt Works on the back. I'm running a 16t pinion with a 84t spur and a Novak GTB/Velociti 5.5. It really jumps off the line. Wish I had a track nearby to race!

[LearjetMinako]

I'm currently running between a 18t & 20t with a 81t Spur gear. With the 18t, the motor has plenty of power to break traction and keep it broken till half way to top speed. A 20t I think would be better for that big oval that I'm setting up for.

Those new Novak Velociti's are crazy. 3.5 has a K/V of 10,500. :huh: . Wow, thats wicked. I'll stick to what I got. It has plenty of torque and speed. And its something I can handle without fish tailing into every wall.

[Ghostface Buggy]

After 4 years out of the R/C scene, I purchased a FT TC4 and a FT B4 this summer. I've raced my B4 5 times so far with decent results and I like all the changes Associated made to the buggy since the last time I was racing with a B3. I'll post a picture soon so everyone can see my baby.

I'd also like to talk about my take on a lot of the aftermarket parts that I used/tried to use for my B4. Is it OK to do that on this forum? I don't want to get banned on my second post! Let's just say some company's parts fared better than others.

Here's to keeping electric off-road alive!

[slaf]

I raced my B4 this summer too and did well....




_______________________
www.myrcbox.com

[fastharry]

hi guys.....I want to try my hand at a little off road this winter in NJ....I'm going to run at barnstormers in my( www.barnstormersrc.com )...2 seasons ago I ran kinwald......here's my question...is there going to be that much of a difference going to the b4(money not an object,just don't like to waste)...and has anyone tried a novak brushless?.....any fitting issues?...thanks...BTW,how's the b4 compare to the new losi buggy..alot of guys are switching to B4's at the barn...

they are allowed to run 19 turns.....I'm gonna be the first to run brushless(after very lengthy persuasion)..so I figure I'll start with the 13.5..not the 4300 motor....no sense scaring them on the first pass down the straight.. :) :) ;)


http://www.barnstormersrc.com/pictures/2005/2-10-05inside_track/001.jpg

[Ghostface Buggy]

1) I definitely think it's worth upgrading to the B4 for no other reason than the improved front suspension set-up.

2) I've also noticed that Associated has made a big comeback with the B4. Four years ago at my local track, the vast majority of buggies were Losi's and now it's about 50/50.

3) I haven't driven the new Losi buggy, but I've heard that they're still easier to drive for noobs than the B4, but the B4 is a better car in the hands of a good driver. Take that for what it's worth. (I've been doing really well with my B4)

4) I have an 11T Reedy BL in my B4 and I'm really happy with it except for the fact that they are kind of a pain to rebuild and Associated/LRP doesn't sell replacement screws if you strip one out. Judging from the picture of the track you posted, I'd go with an 11T. You can always trim down the power of an 11T with your transmitter, but you can't boost the power of a 13T.

Have fun this winter. I've been having a great time with my B4. I'll try to post some pics of my baby soon...

[fastharry]

1) I definitely think it's worth upgrading to the B4 for no other reason than the improved front suspension set-up.

2) I've also noticed that Associated has made a big comeback with the B4. Four years ago at my local track, the vast majority of buggies were Losi's and now it's about 50/50.

3) I haven't driven the new Losi buggy, but I've heard that they're still easier to drive for noobs than the B4, but the B4 is a better car in the hands of a good driver. Take that for what it's worth. (I've been doing really well with my B4)

4) I have an 11T Reedy BL in my B4 and I'm really happy with it except for the fact that they are kind of a pain to rebuild and Associated/LRP doesn't sell replacement screws if you strip one out. Judging from the picture of the track you posted, I'd go with an 11T. You can always trim down the power of an 11T with your transmitter, but you can't boost the power of a 13T.

Have fun this winter. I've been having a great time with my B4. I'll try to post some pics of my baby soon...



thanks...b4 it is... ;) ...just curious,why are you rebuilding a brushless motor?..

[Ghostface Buggy]

thanks...b4 it is... ;) ...just curious,why are you rebuilding a brushless motor?..

I emailed the guys at Associated and they said to completely clean the motor after 2 - 3 full race days and I also called them and another guy said to clean it out every 20 -30 runs. He said you might be able to get more runs out of it before it's time to clean if you're running on a blue groove track or a very clean on-road track. If you're track is loose or dirty, it would probably be good to clean it sooner than later.

These motors are really great. I run 6 minute heats and they barely get hot at all. You can just leave them in your car all day long and not worry about them. Gone are the days of switching out motors after every race!

[Ghostface Buggy]

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h253/RIPODB/B4Right.jpg

[HPI-Fan-4-Ever]

Hey all can ya help me, I have a rolling B4 chassis and my friend is interested in it, but I don't know how much I should ask for it :confused: . It has Lunsford titanium turnbuckles, Losi ballcups, brand new Dirt Hawgz in the rear along with the stockers, some spare a-arms and knuckles, and the chassis is in perfect shape minus a little bit of dirt. So how much could I expect to get/should ask for it? Thanks to whoever can help me! :cool: ;)

[DPS]

I just got my b4 yesterday, here it is on my track

[suck my wake]

quick question for you guys just bought a br tranny on ebay for a crawler. But the outdrives are the lightened ones. Do all the b4 trannys have the lightend outdrives? if not does someone wanna make an even trade ill post a pic later.

[JeffEmbracedDC]

Hey, guys. I have a B3 and I need a new body for it. Will a B4 body fit a B3? Particularly this one? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFBH6&P=7 Thanks, guys.

-J

[JeffEmbracedDC]

I called Associated this morning and they said that it won't :( Oh well. Thanks, guys.


-Jeff

[fastharry]

I emailed the guys at Associated and they said to completely clean the motor after 2 - 3 full race days and I also called them and another guy said to clean it out every 20 -30 runs. He said you might be able to get more runs out of it before it's time to clean if you're running on a blue groove track or a very clean on-road track. If you're track is loose or dirty, it would probably be good to clean it sooner than later.

These motors are really great. I run 6 minute heats and they barely get hot at all. You can just leave them in your car all day long and not worry about them. Gone are the days of switching out motors after every race!


sweet.....my b4 arrived yesterday....this is gonna be a great weekend....puttin' the b4 together,and getting race ready for Fri night...I'm also running a spectrum and PT,my fri nights are gonna be a pleasure!!!..thanks for your help...

[JeffEmbracedDC]

sweet.....my b4 arrived yesterday....this is gonna be a great weekend....puttin' the b4 together,and getting race ready for Fri night...I'm also running a spectrum and PT,my fri nights are gonna be a pleasure!!!..thanks for your help...


Soudns like a blast :) have fun, man.

[MattRunhart]

I heard some talk about aluminum arms for the B4 and was curious where to get them, and also in a pic a little before this there is a B4 with wing mounts that are some type of metal and i am interested in who makes those also.

[nto2race]

I have just purchased a TA B4 stealth and am interested in finding the strongest and longest lasting 7.2v battery to use in both stock and/or modified class. Ideas anyone?
How long does a 1800mah run for in comparison to eg. 3600mah?

[JeffEmbracedDC]

I have just purchased a TA B4 stealth and am interested in finding the strongest and longest lasting 7.2v battery to use in both stock and/or modified class. Ideas anyone?
How long does a 1800mah run for in comparison to eg. 3600mah?

What MAh means is MilliAmpHour. What it means is how many thousanths of an amp you can pull from the battery for a solid hour. To make it a little easier to understand, an 1800 Mah battery can push 1.8 amps for an hour, or 3.6 amps for 30 minutes, or 7.2 amps for 15 minutes, or 14.4 for amps for 7.5 minutes, you get the point. So the higher the Mah, the longer you will run for. Typically for a stock race, anything over 3000MAh will suit you, and for modified, I'd say anything over 3700MAh will be good. I have a set of 3300s that last me a good 15 minutes with a P2K (trinity stock motor). If you get matched cells and build your own batteries (which you should if you plan to start racing), each cell will be rated for voltage, charge rate and discharge rate (amps), the number of seconds that the cell will last when being discharged at the discharge rate (often rated at a 30 amp discharge), the peak voltage, etc. An example of a rated cell is below:

http://www.actionhobbiesonline.net/Assets/images/fantom_matched3.jpg

After they test and rate each battery, they "match" them. If they're building a 6 cell battery, they will take 6 cells that have rating numbers that match as close as possible, and are usually almost identical. This gives the most effecient battery pack. Most effecient charging, most effecient discharging, most effecient life span, etc etc. So that's the general gist behind batteries. If your racing at club level you should probably spend around $50/6 cells. Though if you can't afford quite that much there are still plenty of opssibilities for you. If you want to spend even more, well, 6 cell packs can get up to around $100, but honestly that's becoming pretty ridiculous and pretty unnecessary. Hope this helps you out.

-J

[TunaCan Charlie]

^^^What he said!!!^^^

AND

Go to Radio Shack and pick up some GP 3300's stick packs. Only $25 per! Best deal in town for bashing :)

[FocusWRC]

Anyone know of another brand of threaded shocks that will fit the B4 ?

[nto2race]

Many thanks to JeffEmbraced DC and TunaCan Charlie. I am partial to building my own sets and the information from this thread and others has been most helpful. Plan on racing the B4 in the new year and would love to see it the old skills are still there. Previously raced an Optima Turbo back in '86 (with Lemans motor) and was constantly running out of juice mid race- dont plan on allowing the same basic problems to happen again. Many thanks.

[microrcdude]

Anyone know of another brand of threaded shocks that will fit the B4 ?
Any will fit with slight mods. Ive seen Duratrax and losi shocks on B4's.

[jnegrx]

Anyone know of another brand of threaded shocks that will fit the B4 ?


Why would you need to do this?

Well I've seen guys that have raced with Losi for a long time change to Losi in their B4 until they learn how to build the AE ones.

[Ghostface Buggy]

Why would you need to do this?

Well I've seen guys that have raced with Losi for a long time change to Losi in their B4 until they learn how to build the AE ones.

Yeah, I think that's probably the reason. I remember the first time I was trying to put together the shocks for my original gold tub RC10. Talk about frustrating!

Also, I haven't seen any top tier drivers use anything but AE shocks on their B4's so it can't be an issue of getting better performance out of a different brand's shocks...

[microrcdude]

Losi's also dont wear as fast. We ran losi shocks on a T4 for a 24 hour race as they dont leak fluid during the race. I soppose i could of sealed the stock shocks, but i had good losi shocks on hand.

[JeffEmbracedDC]

wha? a 24 hour race? I don't think it would even be fun after some point. I'm usually dead tired after like 6 hours of racing! Jeez.

-J

[microrcdude]

Oh its crazy! I race real cars too, and its amaizing how much similarity there is between both.

Interesting stuff:
We went through:
-94 packs
-2 motors
-6 sets of tires
-1 rear suspension arm
-3 uprights
-1 rear hub
-1 CVD

We had 3 transmitters, we charged 2 of them while the other one was in use. Gosh it was one fuuun weekend

[Drkmstr104]

I was wondering if the rims from losi fit on the B4, because I know that the rear rims for a xxx-t fit on a T4, but not the front ones... just checkin compatibility O_o
-Drkmstr104

[jnegrx]

Yes they do fit

[microrcdude]

The rear rims fit. The fronts will fit if you convert to XXX front hubs.

[microrcdude]

CMON GUYS WAKE UP!!!! I know im not the only person with a B4 on RCZ....

[MustGoFaster]

Merry Christmas!

[TunaCan Charlie]

Merry Christmas and welcome to the Forums, MustGoFaster!!!

[microrcdude]

^^^Couldnt of said it better myself.

[MustGoFaster]

Santa (me) brought a Spektrum's DX3.0 (NEW model) for my B4.
:D

[microrcdude]

thats awesome! I want one too, my futaba is getting ollllld

[microrcdude]

I drove the B4 for the first time in a loooong time today. Ive got issues though. Something in my drive train is messed up, seems to have issues under acceleration. Gear mesh is fine. Ill clean out the motor tonight, and if that doesnt work ill tear down the tranny. I gotta figure out my new charger though.

[TunaCan Charlie]

Santa (me) brought a Spektrum's DX3.0 (NEW model) for my B4.
:D

NOICE!!!

Mine looks just like that but has a little "2" instead of a "3" on it. Thanks Santa Wife!

[microrcdude]

Still cant figure out my problems. Im hoping its just a gear in the trans or something.

[Drkmstr104]

Still cant figure out my problems. Im hoping its just a gear in the trans or something.

hmmm. sounds kinda like a loose differential O_o... that happened to my friends losi xxx-t, the diff was loose after they fixed a broken bearing inside, and it wouldnt accelerate properly. Did you check out the slipper clutch too?

[microrcdude]

Bob Hastings believes it might be my slipper pads, so ima change those, and ima tighten my diff again. hopefully one of the two will fix it.

[Drkmstr104]

good luck! haha minute adjustments are tricky =/ ...oh yea, does your buggy make any weird noises? Ive had wheels that werent on tight enough, and the pin that holds it in place started to spin a bit, sounded like a coffee grinder O_o, and you could imagine how that affects accel..
Slipper pads are good to check in this case, O_o and a pretty inexpensive fix too if thats whats holding it back...
-Drkmstr104

[microrcdude]

Sounds like its slipping more than anything. I tightened the bolt on the slipper, and i think my pads are shot, so ill pick some up next time im over by the shop.

[Merc4Stroke]

Does anyone use the inline steering blocks and axles? What is the benefit if any? I went through the setup sheets on the AE website, and didn't find one pro that used the inline stuff does that tell me that I don't want to try them?

Also, what is the difference between the factory team parts vs/ the regular ones? I'm assuming that the FT stuff is made out of better material such as carbon or graphite?

Thanks, and HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Mike

[microrcdude]

I dont have the Inline, though ive had it on my past cars. I feel its alot easier to run with and set up, and it doesnt feel too unstable at speeds.

The factory material is made of graphite. I dont run graphite arms, as i feel the arms need to flex when hit and whatnot.

[Merc4Stroke]

Thanks Micro,

I'll give the inline stuff a try, I guess you've got to start somewhere.

Mike

[Drkmstr104]

Yea the factory team parts tend to be upgrades that are slightly better than what you start out with. For instance, Plastic stock arms vs Graphite arms, and Id rather stick with the plastic ones, as they are not prone to breaking as easily as the graphite ones do lol. Some of the factory team options just make your truck lighter in weight, as all the graphite parts do, and some of their parts, like the titanium turnbuckles, add more durability to your truck. If you are a beginner and bash your truck alot, I would not upgrade to alot of the factory team parts, because its too easy to break something when you are a beginner. With anything, you start at the bottom, and as you get better you need parts that perform better. Hope this helps!
-Drkmstr104

[Merc4Stroke]

Drkmstr104,

You have some very valid points there, thanks for your input. I'll be sticking to the "stock" parts for a while then. LOL Those damn black pipes, that the track is bordered with, just jump out at my buggy.

Thanks again,
Mike

[TunaCan Charlie]

Sounds like its slipping more than anything. I tightened the bolt on the slipper, and i think my pads are shot, so ill pick some up next time im over by the shop.

I thought a while ago that I had blown my diff in my B4. As it turned out, the roll pins in the rear axle had sheared off on one side and the axle was spinning inside the rim. Happy ending, quick fix for under $5. I wonder if someone makes stronger pins for brushless motors... :)

[Drkmstr104]

lol or something besides just pins O_o you think there would be some gnarly lookin' thing in there that would hold the rim on better...

[microrcdude]

i know the rims are on fine, that was the first thing i looked at.

[oneoff]

Just getting back into rc after mmmmm, let's just say a long time(my last car was a Kyosho Optima) And just got a new B4 today. What in your opinion should be my first upgrades ? Thanks.

[TunaCan Charlie]

What did you get? A Team or Factory Team kit? An RS or SE RTR?


And why are you up so late on a school night!!! :p

[jobo_ph]

Santa (me) brought a Spektrum's DX3.0 (NEW model) for my B4.
:D

Looks a lot like a JR XS3 radio that my son is using :eek: :D :p

Cool!

[TunaCan Charlie]

^^^Hey lookie there!!^^^ Another new guy!!

Welcome to the Forums!

[oneoff]

I got the RTR to get started .

[TunaCan Charlie]

I'll assume you got the "Race Spec" version of the RC10B4, since the "Special Edition" has been discontinued for some time now. (although you can still get "new" ones on E-Bay). I have the RS version myself.

The RTR is basically the Associated TEAM buggy, which is a very good buggy to begin with. The Factory Team kit comes with nice things like carbon parts, blue anodized aluminum, adjustable shocks and a carbon fiber battery strap, among other things. Drive your buggy and get used to it for a good while before doing a lot of hop ups. Maybe you will see for yourself where you want improvements.

Your upgrades will depend on how serious you are about racing your buggy. The supplied 17 turn motor is okay to start with just for bashing, but you will soon want something faster, don't we all! I believe that ESC can handle a 15T modified motor. There are many very good motors that will increase performance of your B4. Orion, Trinity, Checkpoint and others make great motors, and EVERYONE has their own personal favorite.

Definitely upgrade your dogbones to MIP's or an equivalent universal. I still have the dogbones and I wish I had changed them since they are all bent now. Another nice one to have is the blue battery strap thumbscrews. Just a lot more convenient than body clips.

More later, gotta go... :D

[Drkmstr104]

I got the RTR to get started .

O_o the rtr comes with stuff to get you started, but it really depends on if you are going to race or not. I you are going to use it as a backyard basher, I wouldnt get anything extra for it except brushes and some new tires. If you are going to race you should definately upgrade to some other equipment:
-Motor! Get a 27 turn stock motor, or a 19 turn if thats the class you race in, I recomend the Reedy MVP 27 turn for starters, or any other stock motors like a Trinity P2Kpro, or an Orion Core stock motor. Also get some replacement brushes, as they wear down and burn out after a while of racing. The motor that your B4 comes with is a closed endbell version, so you cannot open it up to clean it, and thats why I made the switch (also the other stock motors are a little higher quality imho). Also get some motor spray to clean it out, a can of orion motor spray will last a long time and work great.
-Plugs! I recomend buying some deans ultra plugs to replace the tamiya connector for the battery, and to replace the bullet connectors for the motor.
-Wire! Always good to have, 14 or 12 gague does the job perfectly ^_^
-Soldering tools! You might already have these, but when you are in a race and something goes wrong and you need to solder to make it to the next race, they sure come in handy
-Speed Control! You can use the one they include with your buggy for a while, but after learning how to control everything better, you need a better ESC like alot of others have. When I was Using the stock one for racing my truck, people were passing me everywhere because I couldnt accelerate quicky, or stop fast enough. I made the switch to novak, and made a big difference! Also, the ESC that you have only puts out 5 volts for the BEC, so your servo wont turn as fast, having a speed control with a 6 volt BEC really makes a difference too, and I think that the s1903 servo that you have works great with 6volts, 5 volts makes it too sluggish for racing. So getting a good ESC saves money on servos too.
-Servo! You probably wont need to get a different servo if you upgrade the bec to 6v, and the one you have has metal gears, so it wont break so easily, so its really up to you. If you are looking for a good servo though, The Hitec HS-925mg works great, high speed, reasonable torque, and metal gears.
-RAdio gear! Works fine, but if you need to upgrade to a system that you prefer not to be am, then go for it, otherwise the one that is included works alright.
-Tires! The tires you have work awesome, but they are made more for loose tracks versus hard tracks. Be prepared to replace them out after they wear down, or if the surface you are racing on is different than what they are intended for.
-Wing mounts! The wingmounts are prone to breaking at some point, so have a few spares to keep you going. They shouldnt break too often, but a flip here, an overshot jump there, and you will be thankfull that you have em.

I think thats about it O_o hopfuly I didnt scare you away from anything lol, but just remember that upgrades dont have to happen all at once, start out by buying one thing thats better, then another, and another, and eventually everything should be sorted out and you will have a race worthy buggy.
Hope this helps!
-Drkmstr104

[TunaCan Charlie]

^^^Yeah, what he said^^^!

[oneoff]

Thanks guys, lot's of good stuff there. I'm going out and bash a little and see what I can break ! Thanks agin I'm sure I'll have alot more questions for you soon. :eek:

[Merc4Stroke]

Hey Guys,

I know this is a really off the wall question, but here is is anyway.

What size nut drivers do you use for the B4? I'm looking at getting some better tools for the wheels, and I'd also like something that's easier to work with on ball studs.

This is what I currently use, Rear wheels.... 11/32" Front wheels (and slipper)... 1/4" And 3/16" for ball studs. Are these the "proper" sizes for each application?

They work for me, but since I'm going to pick up some new drivers I just wanted to make sure that I'm not supposed to be using a metric size for an exact fit.

Thanks for your input,
Mike

[Drkmstr104]

Yea, the stock nut drivers work, but not as well as you need em to. I use these from team integy: http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_prod.html?p_prodid=172&p_catid=11&sid=4wSJJh1jYF4505P-53107021723.45

the sizes that come in that pack are
- 11/32 inch
- 1/4 inch
- 3/16 inch
Yep, those are the correct drivers that you need, you got em right lolz.
And from what I can tell, these would work alright with ball studs.
-Drkmstr104

[MustGoFaster]

I believe the only Metric tool used on the B4 is a 2.5 mm hex for the motor screws motor.

[microrcdude]

Thats correct. I use the Dynamite drivers, and ive never had a problem with them. I also have a set of Snap-on metric wrenches which is a bit overkill, but i like being able to get my ends replaced for free/

[JeffEmbracedDC]

New pair of rear wheels for sale: $5 shipped - http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=2166845#post2166845

[Drkmstr104]

O_O today was awesome!! I drag raced my stock B4 (with an orion rds 3600 batt pack, trinity P2Kpro 27 turn stock motor, and novak cyclone ESC) against my friends TMaxx (the one with the 3.3 trx engine, and root beer scented nitro =D ) and I friggin won O_O!! haha im not sure the exact length of the race from start to finish, it was 100meters total prolly (50 foreward and 50 back) it was great! My B4 smoked it at the very beginning because electrics have instant torque and high accel (my buggy maxes out at 30mph or so in like 2 seconds), and the TMaxx eventually started to close the gap when it reached 45 mph, and then at the turn around I was still in the lead and already maxed out on speed while he was turning O_O hahaha just goes to show some benefits of electric vs nitro ^_^ Ill see about makin a movie on it O_o next time i have a chance...
-Drkmstr104

[viperx07]

Hey guys, I ordered a mamba max 5700 combo and will be using it with 6 cell niMH and 3s lipo packs on my b4. What do I need to upgrade for my b4 to handle that kind of power. The b4 started out as a RTR but it had graphite replacements along with some ti turnbuckles but mostly its all stock. What will wear out the fastest and are there any ti or steel gears I need to get or whatnot? Thanks.

[JeffEmbracedDC]

Yeah, the only thing you should really need to upgrade are the gears in the tranny. The diff gear and idler to be specific (the only two molded plastic ones). You should be able to find aluminum or titanium ones on eBay I'm sure. Otherwise you should be fairly safe not upgrading anything else. You don't really need graphite stuff anyway. That stuff is mainly to lose a bit of weight for racing. Otherwise, the regular molded stuff is fine. I generally use RPM products which are molded plastic, but of a slightly heavier material that is a LOT stronger than both the standard molded material and the factory team carbon graphite stuff. Personally I usually use the folliowing RPM products on my B3: Front Bumper, Rear Bumper, Ball Cups, Gear Cover, Front Arms, and that's about it. I'd personally run those no matter what kind of motor set up I was running. In fact I ran that using a P2K for a long while. Anyway, if you just replace the diff gear and idler with aluminum or titanium you should be fine :) It's a great motor system.

-J

[viperx07]

ok the diff gear is the one that has those twelve holes for the little diff balls right? You said the idler gear was plastic, but I dont remember it being plastic?!? maybe I just forgot and confused it with my b3 because in the b3 im SURE the idler gear was NOT plastic. Also, what about the spur gear? It wont get stripped or anything?

Another thing, ye I also like to use RPM stuff but its a shame they dint make many things for the b4. If they made arms for the b4, i would buy they right away.

[Ghostface Buggy]

Yeah, the only thing you should really need to upgrade are the gears in the tranny. The diff gear and idler to be specific (the only two molded plastic ones). You should be able to find aluminum or titanium ones on eBay I'm sure. Otherwise you should be fairly safe not upgrading anything else. You don't really need graphite stuff anyway. That stuff is mainly to lose a bit of weight for racing. Otherwise, the regular molded stuff is fine. I generally use RPM products which are molded plastic, but of a slightly heavier material that is a LOT stronger than both the standard molded material and the factory team carbon graphite stuff. Personally I usually use the folliowing RPM products on my B3: Front Bumper, Rear Bumper, Ball Cups, Gear Cover, Front Arms, and that's about it. I'd personally run those no matter what kind of motor set up I was running. In fact I ran that using a P2K for a long while. Anyway, if you just replace the diff gear and idler with aluminum or titanium you should be fine :) It's a great motor system.

-J

I've never heard of people changing out the tranny plastic gears for aluminum or titanium ones just because they are using a BL system. I've run a little over 100 packs through my LRP Sphere Comp w/Neo 2* and I've had no problems with the tranny whatsoever. I think replacing those gears would probably do more harm than good.

Personally, I'd just stock up on parts that break regardless of what type of motor you're running: u-brace, shock towers, bulkhead, a-arms, etc...If you're running BL, I wouldn't buy graphite parts as they're more expensive, break easier, and that 1 to 2 ounces of weight reduction would only be beneficial if you were racing stock buggy competitively. Besides, the plastic parts are cheaper and flex more, which makes a B4 have a little more more traction.

[JeffEmbracedDC]

As far as the tranny goes - I have the mm5700 and I have stripped my tranny gears every time I run it. It's a very very powerful system. I haven't had any problems with my spur gear. I have heard other people complaining about their tranny stripping quite a bit too. Honestly, I wouldn't have thought it was that big of a deal either until I couldn't even get a full run in without having ti rip out the tranny and order new gears. Anyway, that's with the B3. I can't imagine that the issue has been elimnated in the b4. It's just too powerful ot a system. People break CVDs with these things. I guess wait till they strip until you order any upgrades.

-J

[viperx07]

So far I have ran 2 battery packs with a 21 tooth pinion and stock spur gear on the street with street tires and my gears seem fine. Will give an update after I take it to the track.

[TunaCan Charlie]

I'm running the stock stealth tranny in my B4 with a Novak 5.5 for months now and I've never had a transmission problem.

I've broken lots of other stuff though... :D




GO PATS!!!

[JeffEmbracedDC]

I was probably a bit rougher on mine. I was on rough gravel so it was losing and regaining traction constantly. I may have had the slipper set a bit too tight. Hmm. Good to know though. I heard some people had issues.. and I know that I certainly had some. I don't know. Glad to hear it's holding up for you guys.

-J

[MustGoFaster]

No problems from my B4 tranny and I have raced it every week for a year now.

But, I do make sure that my slipper clutch is slipping for the first 1-2 feet.

Sacrificing the slipper clutch pads will save many many other parts....

[jobo_ph]

^^^Hey lookie there!!^^^ Another new guy!!

Welcome to the Forums!

Thanks TunaCan Charlie!

-------------------

I was finally able to buy a Factory Team RC10B4, today and now going through the assembly process.

I raced a Duratrax Evader BX Pro last year on a club level here in the Philippines and I just felt it's time to step up to a better (if not the best) buggy.

I am kinda stumped on Bag B, Step 1 on the manual.

The manual says 4187 Washer x 2. However, in the rendered graphical drawing, I see 2 washers for each ball end which means 4187 should be x 4.

So, which is wrong? The rendered drawing or the required number of 4187s?

Anyone ever encountered this?

I looked at the back page of the manual and on the lower right, a JD6692AE.V2 is printed.

Please share your experience with this matter. Thank you.