GS Racing Storm and Storm Pro v2.0

[Buggin_TRC]

Garen,

I did cut the outer row off both sides. Seems to handle the 90's better now. Thanks for the suggestion on the Vega's, I had seen them somewhere once before and thought they might work. I'll have to try and find a set to try.


Doesgo,

This is gonna be an Amatuer Response. I only know I cut mine because when turning 90's on a regularyly bumpy track, the back end would hop as if it were gonna traction roll, but then the fins (for lack of a better word) give way and it falls back down. Kinda hard to explain.

But the buggy definately stays on ALL 4 wheeels now, through the corners.

[Buggin_TRC]

Well I tried to tell you guys about my first Big race with my storm, but it died when I submitted it. We here goes the short version.

Went and race over at The RC Pit (http://www.thercpit.com) in Jacksonville. Had 2 6minute qualifiers . A 10 minute B Main with the top 2 bumping up to the 30 minute A Main.

Had trouble in bothe qualifiers. Qualified top spot in the B Main. Lead the B Main from start to finish. Started 9th in the A Main and finished 4th. Had a lot of fun.

Had to run Hyper 7 PBS rear shocks and shock mounts, because one of my rear shock pistons was broke in half. Broke both front turnbuckles on the upper arms. Broke my fuel tank right at the front mount, my body broke at the rear mount in the 1st qualifier and at the front in the 30 minute main. I bought a set of Panther Komodo Dragons and they hooked up excellent. Must of screwed up something in the steering setup, cause for the second half of the A Main I could barely turn left, but could turn right on a dime. Of course that was before I broke the second turnbuckle.

Over all had a great time!!!!

[doesgo]

I just got a new Storm RTR and a Storm Unlimited truck. Both are bone-stock and I plan to race both at a relatively large, loose, off-road track this summer. I've been reading through the thousands of posts on this board, but naturally, I've got a few questions I haven't found answers to...

1) The buggy's engine has never been run and I've broken in the SUT's engine but that's it. Is it recommended that I should pull the engines apart to clean them up and seal them or is that not necessary with these GS RTR engines (B01 and MT25)?

2) I've got access to a polished RB 086 pipe which I understand is significantly better than the stock GS pipe, but the 086 has a couple shallow dents in it. I'd estimate the dents are less than 2mm deep. Will that affect the performance enough that I should skip it and stick with the GS pipe or is the RB the way to go?

3) There's so much talk about the advantages of a low center-of-gravity, which makes sense. But then why doesn't anyone run their shocks upside-down to get the heavy shock body and fluid as low as possible?

Thanks in advance!

[Buggin_TRC]

Just a couple of thoughts. Not really sure they will answer any of your exact questions, but they are kinda related.

1. The RB pipe. Is this a pipe you own or one you are looking to buy used. I have been told that the Ofna version of the 086 and 063 are half the price and twice the wall thickness. The don't dent up near as bad as the RBs. Also to get the dents out you can fill the pipe with water and seal the holes then freeze it to pop the dents out. You can also mix up some JB Weld or something of the sort and use it around the stinger to prevent the stinger from getting pushed into the pipe(this is a common problem) The 086 (if it is the high end pipe) would probably help the B01 as it seems to have plenty of low end but not a lot of high end.

2. As far as the lower CG. I don't know about flipping the shocks upside down. You can however put a washer under the arm mounts at each screw point, thus lowering the chassis and the CG. I've been told to do this after I have the buggy setup.

Hope this sheds some light.

[doesgo]

The RB 086 pipe is a friend's. He ran it on his Savage for about a year, then switched to an HPI ribbed pipe. He dented the RB pretty good but did the freeze trick and got most of the dents out, but shallow dents remain. I'm not sure what he'll want for it if I decide to buy it, but it'll probably be pretty cheap. Sounds like it might be a good one to try on the Storm buggy.

Thanks for the help, Buggin!

[Buggin_TRC]

Just verified the 086 is a mid to high end pipe. So it should really help the B01 on the Storm buggy. Sounds like you should get it for a good price from a friend. Should be an excellent deal. Let us know if you get it, how it affects that buggy. Might have to find one for mine...

[doesgo]

Will do! Winter is in full force here in Minnesota, however (-9F right now at 12:30 in the afternoon!), so it'll probably be a while before I even begin to run the buggy. :rolleyes:

[VMach]

I've decided to but a SUT myself and I'm looking for set-up info on it. Shocks, diffs, camber, caster and all that kind of stuff. I have not seen any posts on here or any other place. Can some one direct me to where I can find any of this info.

[VMach]

Can someone/anyone make a thread just for the GS Storm Unlimited Truck? I can't create one and I think enough people would post on it to make a new thread worthwhile.

[doesgo]

That's a great idea! I hope they do that, they have it for most other vehicle models!

[Buggin_TRC]

Don't know if everybody remembers the discussion about GS doing all their own distributing now or not. I just talked to the guy I order all my stuff through ( he's out of state, due to my LHS being a joke), and he said that Horizon Hobby lost their deal with GS. Don't know this to be 100% true, but I do trust him. Plus, seems as if Horizon is out of stock on alot of GS parts.

Just thought I would share this info.

[garen]

I'll try my best to have SUT setups and racer info posted on our site this week.
The exclusive distributor for GS Racing in North, Central, and South Americas is General Silicones Group. Horizon has stock of cars and parts, and may continue to carry the line.

[doesgo]

That'd be fantastic! I can't wait to get my SUT set up for the racing season. Thanks Garen!

[T/Perfect STORM]

Go GS. Finally a place to get parts other then Horizon. I think the best move GS has done is to start to sell there products direct. I always knew there were parts out there that horizon did not have or I could not find on that GREAT web site of theres. I am 100% GS, I have a Storm, vision and am now looking at the SUT. GS is like that monster in your closet, it there but intill it bites you in the you really dont notice it. Every one is starting to take notice now.

[Fidelio]

http://radiocontrol.canalblog.com/nurnberg05020449.JPG http://radiocontrol.canalblog.com/nurnberg05020444.JPG Avenger

http://radiocontrol.canalblog.com/nu30.JPG Mini SUT

http://radiocontrol.canalblog.com/nu1.JPG SUT Pro

http://radiocontrol.canalblog.com/nu9.JPG Storm to SUT conversion

[strechm]

I agree, we need a SUT thread. I own one and need an area to exchange info. I did make a request for one a few days ago but nothing so far.

[kojak61]

What flywheel and clutch bell are you guys using on your Storms? My flywheel has smooth spots and the clutch bell is worn. This after a little over half a gallon of fuel. So now I want something stronger.

[garen]

stock flywheel works fine, so does the stock bell. for more punch try a 12T bell from ofna, the one with 5x10 bearings.

[Buggin_TRC]

Just a couple of questions. I have a Storm RTR. I have done the longer screw with a nylock nut on the arm mount trick. Screw still seems to be moving. One of the rear screws is actually bent now and my right rear arm moved and the dogbone came out and snapped off one side of the cross pin. then later the other dogbone broke off one side of the cross pin. So I ordered the CVD/CVA for the rear. Would the aluminum arm mounts prevent further issues with the arms moving? If I go with the aluminum arm mounts do I still need the longer screws and nylock nuts? One other question, ordered some of the Special Shock caps (overfill drain hole) and now I can't use them cause the mount holes are larger? Any ideas?

Parts I've broken so far ( all this in 2 races):

Both turnbuckles (front upper arms)
Both rear dogbones (cross pins)
Body (front and rear mounting areas)
Fuel tank (rear mount ripped a chunk out at the seam)
Rear shock piston (and bent the washer)
Both rear hub carriers (one broke tho whole mount the other just a chunk)

I don't think I'm that rough on the buggy, most of the parts broke in practice, not in the 10, 20 or 30 minute mains.

[kojak61]

Well buggin, I will tell you I am running the Dynamite aluminum arm mounts and they are holding up fine. I am not using the nuts either. If you order some, they are sold in pairs, so order two. By the way I am either going to get the K Factory Flywheel and clutch or a Fioroni set, Don't buy the Storm pro Flywheeel they wear out too fast.

[Fidelio]

Buggin, when i bought a complete set of kyosho shocks i ran into the same thing.

you need this.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=KYOC5675&P=K

i'm not sure what the storm pro uses but kyosho part is what i'm using and my shock caps have the larger hole.

edit - did your caps come with any plastic inserts? you can see what i mean here.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXY3&P=Z

the kyosho steel bushings are sized to work when there's a small plastic bush mounted in the shock cap then mounted onto the post.

to make the kyosho posts work you'd need those plastic inserts.

maybe garen can come along and clear up what you'd need in terms of a GS part.

[Fidelio]

you could also use this. not quite as easy to deal with as the steel bushings but 1/4 the price too.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVC92&P=Z

[Allenhawk]

Hey everyone. I bought my 1\8 Storm last Dec. I really love racing it. I tell you I had a few things go wrong though. I broke both front c-hubs, Front A arm, Had a runaway due to a freind fixing my antenna wich caused it to slam into a tree about 300 yards away when I finally caught up to it. I also broke the front arm above the A arm. With all that said I had a great time fixing it. Does anyone have some good beginner tips to upgrade my buggy to be a little more duable?

[Norm1968]

Allenhawk,:eek: , don't know if I'd let your friend fix my antenna. As for some smart upgrades, well, some of us are running RTR's or ARR's and have upgraded various items. I have an ARR running a OS21RG now. Over the winter I have added some Pro parts and a few other after market items. I installed both the Pro front and rear chassis torque rods and the rear Pro torque rod holder. I replaced the stock arm mounts front and rear with aluminum mounts from Dynamite along with longer stainless screws and locknuts. Rear universal drives and a stainless screw kit from RC Screws. I also installed the Pro front and rear shock towers, got tired bending and straigtening the stock ones. Most guys seem to say to replace the shock towers and the torque rods and rear holder first. Some guy's use the rear holder from Fioroni to beef up the rear bulkhead. I assume you've replaced the diff grease with silicone fluid. Other than that, whatever your wallet allows. Welcome to the forum:) . Oh, forgot, I also use the Pro rear wing and mount, alittle stronger if you race and wreck as much as me:rolleyes:

[rcharry]

my storm pro for sale. along w/ other stuuf!
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=157690

[Fidelio]

LOTS of pics of the new Avenger buggy at this website.

http://www.modelcar.pt/GSNews.htm

some really innovative looking stuff.

[Buggin_TRC]

What would you guys do?

Buy an SUT? And keep running the Storm RTR/Modified?

or

Upgrade the Storm to an SUT? And buy a Avenger?

or

Scrap the RTR and buy an SUT Pro and an AVenger?

I am really wanting an SUT, just not sure if I would be better off with the Conversion kit or Buying a SUT Pro.

[Killer87]

will they have a conversion kit from storm to avenger????

[strechm]

Buggin_TRC
I would consider the conversion kit to see if it's what you want before just scrapping the rtr.

[kojak61]

I doubt there will be a Avenger conversion. Nothing from the Storm is even close to the Avenger.

[strechm]

Unless JT desides to create one for the Avenger.

[Killer87]

yeah i realized that....

[Norm1968]

Buggin, Of course it's your decision, but if it were me I think I'd go the conversion route mainly because of the cost. Put the conversion on your RTR then buy the Avenger.

Fedelio, thanks for the link. Alot of new technology in the new buggy compared to the Storm series. Reminds me alittle of the MBX5 in some ways. Think I'll run my Storm til late this season and grab the Avenger. I just spent the off season upgrading my ARR so I want to get some time on it before parting with it.;)

[Allenhawk]

Got a question for you guys. Is there any other brands of parts that will fit my Storm besides GS? I want to get some new parts ordered before I get back from Russia. And where on the web can I order them from? Thanks

[Killer87]

new vid of avenger

http://www.gs-europe.com/default_zone/documents/avenger_internet.wmv

[Fidelio]

nice find.

performance looks very good, let's keep our fingers crossed for durability. :)

[doesgo]

Any racing recommendations for the SUT yet? The weather finally broke and I got mine out this past weekend for the first time (after break-in) and was very impressed! It's bone-stock and it's quite stable, quick-turning, and fast! It was fun to watch the rearend squat and one front wheel come off the ground and start to balloon. Not great for racing, of course, but still fun.

Seems I need some diff oil and stiffer shock springs and oil. Any recommendations? If nobody has any I suppose I go with the "standard" Storm buggy recommendations of Kyosho or OFNA blue springs and 3,000/7,000/1,000 diff lube and see what happens.

[tony1034]

Most people will start with 30k in the center diff on the SUT's. My guess is you'll end up with 50k or thicker.

Someone posted some setup tips for the GS Storm on Maxx Traxx I think? Perhaps it was the Sgrid?

Best regards,
Tony P.

[doesgo]

Thanks a lot. But....why so much thicker in the SUT than in buggies? Tire mass?

[kojak61]

Has anyone tried ofna diffs in there storms? Just wondering if they fit, because like to use the 8 gear diff.

[hotrodpablo]

anyone running a hyper 8 port in a storm? I know that this engine is relatively inexpensive and i am wondering what it's performance is like.

[kojak61]

I am running the Hyper 8 port in my storm pro. It has real good power. I love mine.

[doesgo]

When my 8-port was running well it ran very strong, but unfortunately I wasn't able to keep it running well very often! They're not the most reliable engines out there, but they can be very powerful.

[doesgo]

I took apart the steering on my SUT and was pleasantly surprised to find Loctite on every screw I've pulled so far that goes into metal! That's all too rare on RTR vehicles.

Unfortunately, the steering posts ride on plastic bushings rather than bearings. :rolleyes:

[kojak61]

Anyone know which way the brake cams go in ona rtr brake setup? I have the pro manual and it said larger side faces brake, but I can't tell which is larger.

[doesgo]

Looking for SUT setup tips? Go to the source! 20-page document here, with pictures!

http://www.gsracing.com/gsracing/page.asp?pg=teamgs&id=16

[Fidelio]

Originally posted by kojak61
Anyone know which way the brake cams go in ona rtr brake setup? I have the pro manual and it said larger side faces brake, but I can't tell which is larger.

i'm not looking at mine at the moment but i'm sure they're talking about the diff mount and not the cam itself. the holes in the diff mount where the pin in the bottom of the cam sits is offset slightly. if memory serves correct you want the hole where the pin goes to be closer to the diff than the brakes so the space between the hole and the edge of the mount would be larger facing the brakes than the diff. make sense? i run the two piece mount so it's been a while since i've looked at the plastic one and i can't remember if it's possible to install it backwards. hope that helps.

[Fidelio]

Originally posted by doesgo
Unfortunately, the steering posts ride on plastic bushings rather than bearings. :rolleyes:

all you need is four 6x10mm bearings to change that.

[doesgo]

I know, it just seems like such an odd thing to go cheap on. I know plastic bushings are a virtually no-cost item for the manufacturer, but how much would four bearings cost them? A couple bucks considering the quantities they'd purchase? My Savage was the same way (plastic bushings).

But for me to go to the LHS and buy four 6x10 bearings will cost $20 per vehicle. That's lame.

I ended up ordering a pack of 10 from Tower for $18 so I can take care of both my Storm buggy and SUT.

[Fidelio]

actually kojak, i took my diff out today in prep for the weekend and i gave you bad info. it's exactly the opposite as what i said.

you want the hole for the cam closer to the brake pads than the diff. my bad, sry bout that.

[tperkins]

Does anyone know where to get the stock Storm center diff? I looked at Stormer Hobbies and on the GS website, but couldnt find it. I need it for a project Im working on, and I dont have enough $$$ to buy the Fioroni diffs.

[Fidelio]

you probably couldn't find it because it's sold in pieces, many pieces. diff cup, o-rings, spur gear, gear set, roll pins, brass bushings, outdrive cups, diff gasket, 8x16mm bearings, and diff mount are all sold seperately i think. and this doesn't include the parts for the brakes.

you can however find complete center diff units sold each week on ebay for about twenty dollars give or take five dollars.

[tperkins]

thanks for the info

[Fidelio]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3183430576&category=19168

ebay item #3183430576

This what you're looking for?

[dark10304]

Well i would like to introduce myself. Hello! Enough of that... I am new to RCs and just recently bought a storm. i spent a large protion of the day yesturday breakin in my engine which went smoothly. I have one question... on the under side of my engine on the skid plate my engine mount screws extend beyond plate and i already se wear on the nuts. Is there anything i could do to remedy this, or should i worry at all? ill post pics in a sec. also anyone have any good sites for mods for the storm?
dark

[dark10304]

here is one

[dark10304]

here is tha full buggy..took it through hell and decided on the purty aluminum purple serveo horn instead of the platic one

[Fidelio]

the only advice i would have in regards to the engine mount screws is to switch to some nice hex heads screws and keep extras on hand. pick up a nice 2.5mm hex driver to keep from stripping them when tightening/loosening them.

i stripped out a phillips head one and it was a real pain to get out, after that i've used only hex screws with a Racers Edge 2.5mm power hex driver and haven't had another promlem no matter how beat up the screws looked.

unfortunately i haven't seen anything you can do to keep them from dragging.

[TC3Racer]

i have the heatsink engine mounts and the engine always comes off the mounts. it screws right into the mount, not into the stock slider system with the nut. i have soaked the screws in threadlock but they still dont want to stay in. I'm running a Picco G1. the screws just get backed out and then i loose 'em. i'm starting to strip spurs and clutchbells alot and its getting lame. any thoughts?

[dark10304]

thanks for the advise Fidelio! I have already made a decision since the post talking in other forums and your absolutely right. . but im going a step further and in 2 weeks im tearing my buggy down and repalceing all phillups with hex! i have already ordered this 500 piece metric screw set http://www.rcscrewz.com/bulk_screws_kits.htm .

also any ideas on how to keep my exaust from sliding forward? seems to be an issue on all 8th buggies... I have advise from one of my buddies and he says flange the ends of the pipe where it seats in the rubber...LOL :p

[Menace]

Does anyone know of a good place to get setups for the Storm and 1/8th scale buggies in general? I'm trying to learn as much as I can about setting my Storm up before I hit the track for the first race this year.

[Fidelio]

i have already ordered this 500 piece metric screw set http://www.rcscrewz.com/bulk_screws_kits.htm .

also any ideas on how to keep my exaust from sliding forward? seems to be an issue on all 8th buggies... I have advise from one of my buddies and he says flange the ends of the pipe where it seats in the rubber...LOL :p

those screws will make you very happy in the long run. having the screw you need, when you need it, and knowing it's quality screw you're not going to have to replace when you get home is piece of mind well worth paying for in my opinion. as a matter of fact, it's about time for me to stock up again.

if you're running the b01 that comes in the RTR storm then having the pipe forward isn't necessarily a bad thing because extending the distance between the pipe and the manifold will help with the engines lack of top end. what you don't want of course is for the pipe to come loose from the coupler.

your buddy is right in that you can flange the end of the pipe a little which does help. take a round shaft screwdriver or similar and work it around on the inside edge of the end of the pipe. with a little work you can flange it out that way. you don't want much, a little is all it takes. you can try the same thing with the manifold.

as you spend more time driving the car it will become less of an issue because you'll lawn dart (nose dive) less. this is what drives the pipe forward more than anything.

your best bets for keeping it in place though are to flange the pipe a little, use a high quality coupler (racers edge, gs) and replace it occasionally, really torque down the zip ties you use to secure the ends, and make sure your pipe hanger and screws are tight and have threadlock on them.

gs is now making what they call "J" couplers which slide much further up the manifold than the standard straight coupler. if you're still having trouble after the other things, you could try one of those. it may not keep your pipe from moving, but at least you won't get black flagged off the track for having your pipe come out of the coupler.

lastly, the couplers are directional. the side that goes on the pipe is slightly larger than the side that slips on the manifold. you'll want to make sure it's installed correctly with the slightly larger opening on the pipe.

if all that fails, you can always buy a one piece pipe.

[Mika]

Should I get Storm Pro right away or wait for the Avenger ?

[Fidelio]

it's a toss up mika, and only you could make the final call.

the avenger looks like a great buggy with tons of potential but since it's a new buggy no one knows at this point what the weak spots are or how to fix them. with the storm pro the weak spots are known but more importantly, how to fix them.

we also don't really know when the avenger will make it to stores or when and in what quantity parts will be available for it. the avenger also looks to have more than quite a few unique parts so parts availability could be a real issue when the buggy finally ships since it's unlikely you could mod parts from other buggies to work in a pinch.

the avenger however does look like a very cool buggy with some pretty innovative elements.

[Mika]

Right. It's the same thing with Xray's new MB8. Thanks!

[sixfoot3RC]

Hi guys! new to the group and thread but i have read all the way through. I have a GS and i am in the process of setting it up and incorporating many of the previous set up comments, but i have a question. Exactly what screws should get locktite? I mean i understand the statement metal to metal screws but there are so many what areas need the most attention?

Thx

[doesgo]

Seriously, ALL of them! I've found so far on my SUT that they're all Loc-tited from the factory, so I'm hopeful the same is true of the Storm buggy.

The ones I can think of are the diff cup set screws (if there are any, I can't remember for sure how they attach since I haven't removed mine), engine mount screws, steering post screws (top and bottom). That's all I can think of. Wait, are the radio tray posts metal? If so the screws going into them will need Loc-tite.

[Fidelio]

the only m/m screws i don't locktite are >3mm grub screws (set screws). i've found my luck getting them out without stripping the screw on the ones that small is pretty bad. the ones i'm talking about are the size like what's used on the swaybar linkages.

be sure to put a little on the screw that holds the clutch bell on. also be sure to put some on the diff outdrive cups that attach to the pinion on the front and rear diffs.

welcome to the board and discussion. we hope you enjoy your storm. :)

[smoky]

has anyone seen this from gs. if they have i was wodering if you could tell me what parts it comes with im very interested in converting since i really use my buggy to bash. thanks.

[Fidelio]

Storm buggy owners are now able to convert their vehicles to a "Pro" version of the Storm Unlimited Truck with this kit that includes high-performance upgrades not found in the RTR version of the SUT.

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=GSC2007

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=GSC2007

i haven't seen anyone online who has them in stock yet but i've seen the parts for sale on ebay so someone must have access to them.

[rocknbil]

Hey I don't know if any of you guys know Becca, but maybe you could have a look here (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164073). Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.:D

[Fidelio]

i responded. :)

[jbslade]

Hello all.... I have a question about tuning... i just got my GS STORM last week. and I started breaking in the engine the past couple days. Now i'm starting to tune it for performance and i seem to have a problem with opening the throttle all the way. the engine idles great. and takes off well. but when it's going along about half throttle and i hit it full open. it shuts off. is it the main needle too rich? i'm running around 200 degrees... also when i'm taking reading witha temp gun. where should i aim it?

[doesgo]

I'm not sure on the tuning, but aim the temp gun at the glow plug. Technically you want the temp of the head next to the glow plug, but it's tough to aim that accurately.

200 degrees is a little low, but not if you're running below half-throttle. I guess I'd try leaning out the HSN a little and see if it helps. If you make minor adjustments and your temps don't get crazy, you'll know if that's the problem before you go too lean.

[Fidelio]

like doesgo said, it sounds rich.

if when you lean out the high speed needle it dies when you let off the gas after a straight, richen up the bottom end.

i found with the GS b01 it didn't like me leaning out the high end much without richening up the bottom end to compensate when going back to idle after a high speed section.

i also found that to get the engine to make good power, it likes to run a bit on the hot side.

i probably have between 5-6 gallons on mine so far although i just upgraded to something with a bit more power. in my experience the b01 has been a great engine with plenty of low end.

[StormPilot]

I have had my storm about a month now. My upgrades are as follows.
7075 shock towers and steering arm.
Dual rate springs
7075 chassis.
7075 servo arms
bearings in servo saver and brake plate.
reciever pack

Can anyone tell me some other things that I need to upgrade. I am racing on a really rough track, with a few good jumps. I love this car and can't wait for the season to start. I raced electric at SO Cal for many years and just got back into RC, so I went NITRO. Gota love the smell...LOL


Darin Gray
RCSX Eugene

[sixfoot3RC]

Thanks guys for the answers about the screws. Are there a set of good street tires I could throw on the GS Buggy when i wanna rip on the street?

[1 Bad STi]

hey fellas, Are the storm buggies pretty competitive? Dont quite want to dish out for a kanai, but am looking at the storm pro buggy. Thanks.

[Fidelio]

well, i had a little clutch problem today and had to restart the car in the main twice and still came in second with a storm pro vs kanai's and mugens. granted the fast fast guys weren't in town today (big race elsewhere) and we still had a full roster, but is that competitive enough?

once you can get your car durable enough to survive a 20-30 minute main, the rest is driver and tires imo.

i can get you a link to lap times tomorrow night probably if you're interested.

[1 Bad STi]

What kinds of upgrades are you guys doing in order to keep your cars competitive and bulletproof? Ive got my eye on a few PRO storm versions, anything drastic I should know about this car? Thanks!

[Fidelio]

suspension hinge pin braces are a must imo as are storm pro shock towers. the rear wing mount needs a little work (i'll post a pic later on my mod while i'm waiting for my fioroni part to show up)

i stuck kanai shocks on mine (worth every penny)

bearings in the steering rack. nuts on top of lower suspension holder blocks (look back a page or two).

here's the part #'s on the hinge pin braces.
GS-STP37 - Front Hinge Pin Support Kit
GS-STP38 - Rear Hinge Pin Support Kit
GS-ST098 - 4mm Lower Hinge Pin (62mm) (for replacing bent pins)

too tired to go in depth atm. will post more after weekend's racing is done.

[1 Bad STi]

Fidelio - thanks for the info, what kind of tracks do you run on? Also where are you guys finding good prices for storm parts online?

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I want to upgrade my stock GS Storm RTR engine. I was wondering is OFNA .21 8 Port will direct fit in? Is that true any SG Shaft will fit right in?
Other than OFAN 8 port, do you guys have any other good engine suggestion? (I want to keep the price around $150)
Do i need to buy any tools to remove the Clutch and flywheel AND put it back to the new engine?


Thanks.

[StormPilot]

That engine will drop in, I am going to look into a new mill this year. I know that you can fet a couple in that price range. I was told that the GS engine is actually very good though considering the cost. I was looking into the 200 to 250 range. So I think I might be able to go into some the Hgiher end, or possibly the GS Race engine. It has some really good numbers.


Darin Gray

[PaulH]

For $250 you can pick up an RB C4 7-port competition engine from http://ashfordhobby.com/

It's not exactly the latest-and-greatest from RB, but it's still one heck of a mill for the price!

--
Paul

[us_matrix]

Any special tools i need to get to remove the clutch and gear off the engine shaft? I am planning to get OFNA 8 port to replace Strom RTR engine.
BTW, Is the OFNA 8 port much faster and powerful then the stock one? (ANY OTHER engine choice for $150 range?)

[Fidelio]

the hyper 8 will give you more top end than the B01 but not too much more torque. the midrange is also a little better.

to get the stuff off the crank shaft you'll need a 2.5mm hex driver to get the clutch bell off, a flat blade screwdriver to get the clutch shoes off, a 7/16" (see pic) long reach nut driver or socket to get the pilot nut off while you hold the flywheel with a large pair of tongue and groove pliers (see pic 2).

http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/ProdInfo/DUB/250/DUB702-250.jpg
http://www.channellock.com/acb/stores/2/images/430.jpg

i think it's 7/16 is the size for the nut, i just always use the one opposite the long side of that dubro socket wrench.

[doesgo]

I'm pretty sure it's 10mm, which is close to (but not exactly the same as) 7/16". At least that's what I've found for all my other big-block engines.

The other issue is getting the flywheel off the crank/collet. I still haven't found a GOOD way to do that.

[Fidelio]

i've never had trouble getting the flywheel off the crank after i've taken the pilot nut off. i'm either lucky, or not doing something right, dunno which. :p

[doesgo]

Nice! Maybe I tighten the nut too much.

[Fidelio]

yeah, i make sure it's pretty tight but the last thing i'd want to happen is to strip the crankshaft (unlikely though) so while i do crank it, i don't go nuts on it. i've never heard one way or the other as to good or bad, but i do put a little bit of blue threadlock on the threads before i put the nut on.

[StormPilot]

I am in the boat with doesgo. It is really tough for me to get it off also. I was really scared the first time. I went to the LHS and my buddy just pryed it off, scared the hell out of me. I can do it now, but its still scarey. LOL

The RB looks good, but its still too much right now. Our baby was born Fri night. I am only allowed to spend 200 or less. I don't need a new one yet so I might just save.

baby girl = Diana Nicole 6lbs 2oz, 18in, Oh yea she is gonna tear up the track like here daddy.

Darin Gray

[Fidelio]

Congratulations on your future racer! http://www.tribalwar.com/forums/images/smilies/bigthumb.gif

[doesgo]

Congratulations, Darin!

[BarryH]

Congrats, Darin!

Fidelio - Thanks again for all of your help and advice with my new Storm at the track on Sunday!!

I think I'm hooked on the gas buggy scene for sure now . . . I will also bet that I'll be sportin' a new fioroni rear chasis brace before you are (Just don't tell Gabby!!!)

[Fidelio]

you're welcome. glad to have another stormer. especially one who's always smiling, eager to learn about their car, not afraid of or daunted by wrenching, and has great interest in racing with experience to back it up. you'll make a fantastic addition to the buggy crowd. since you already drive really well you'll be great to practice with too. i need to work on passing / being passed and driving in traffic. :)

:( about the brace
i would have taken one from any source and told gaby to stuff it, it's been that long, but since GS was out of stock on them and i didn't want to call every dealer on their website to find one, i kinda just let it slide. :(

[us_matrix]

Anyone try Dynamite Mech .26 engine ? I am thinkning to replace my stock RTR storm engine. Is it direct fit? The price is in my range ($130)
Is it a powerful engine and much better than the stock one?

Thanks.

[Fidelio]

any .21-.26 SG shaft engine will be a direct fit. the only exception are those billed as T-maxx direct replacements.

[doesgo]

While breaking in my Storm yesterday I really broke it in, as in the right front arm and hinge pin. Freakin' fence posts jumping out of nowhere...

Anyway, I've got my first race this coming Saturday and I need an arm and a hinge pin. My LHS stocks very little GS stuff, so what's the quickest way to obtain the parts I need? Is Stormer pretty quick? Direct from GS? Any other ideas?

[bravo_whiskey]

Doesgo,
I was going to suggest Horizon Hobby, but I just checked their website and they are out of the parts you need. GS does not sell to the public. They used to exclusively distribute through Horizon, but not anymore. I've never ordered from Stormer, but I've heard others say the service and shipping are good. If all else fails, there are always Storms parts on ebay.

[doesgo]

Thanks Bravo.

[Fidelio]

If you order from stormer and need parts the same week, you better choose their upgraded shipping because the UPS ground took a full 8 days from the time my order shipped to the time it was delivered. They're in Montana, I'm in Atlanta, and imo that was too long especially since their shipping charge was no less expensive than many faster methods (usps, fedex ground).

stormer has a great selection of parts, but they really need to change shippers imo. i only order from them now as an absolute last resort.

GS just got a huge shipment of parts from taiwan so your local shop should be able to get what you need by the weekend as long as they've already set up a dealer account with GS, and they order it by tomorrow at the latest.

ebay is also a good place as their stock doesn't appear to be hit with shortages of individual parts since they usually part out full kits.

[mattyk6]

Since I live up here in Washington, orders from Stormer have been quicker than Tower or Horizon.

Maybe you could contact on of the sellers on eBay and maybe they could help you out if you have trouble locating the parts. Maybe even take the broken parts w/ you to the LHS and see if something similar will work.

[doesgo]

Thanks guys. I've contacted an eBay seller, but have not yet received a response. I'll check with my LHS and maybe order from Stormer in hopes that a Montana-to-Minnesota shipment will be quick. If not....I've got spare parts for next time.

Doh! Stormer is out. I guess it just wasn't meant to be this weekend. Oh well. :rolleyes:

[Speedtester]

Thanks guys. I've contacted an eBay seller, but have not yet received a response. I'll check with my LHS and maybe order from Stormer in hopes that a Montana-to-Minnesota shipment will be quick. If not....I've got spare parts for next time.

Doh! Stormer is out. I guess it just wasn't meant to be this weekend. Oh well. :rolleyes:

It's not too late gimme a few minutes I'll see if I can find you the part.

[Speedtester]

Ok, I've ordered from here a cuople times, they ship fast and pretty cheap.

http://www.rc-nation.com/products.php?id=56&pg=2

[doesgo]

Thanks Speedtester, I'll keep them bookmarked. I ended up getting a pair of arms/pins/mounts off the eBay guy, he said I'll have them by the weekend. Also, a hobby store that's several hundred miles from me will be at my race and he said he's bringing a full Storm with him to cannibalize in case people need parts, so I'm covered either way. I love that!

You guys have been most helpful, thanks again.

[Fidelio]

glad you're sorted for the weekend. i too have had an ebayer send me parts without an auction so i could race the next weekend. it was someone who had the same listings week in and week out so i did a search for his last 4 completed auctions on the items i needed, averaged the price, and offered him that. he accepted and i had my parts on thursday. i've had great experiences with storm parts dealers on ebay so far. if you'd like to see who i've purchased from you can check my feedback on ebay userid milesofidelio.
i know it sucks for gs and local hobby shops but most times, ebay is the only place i can find the parts i need. especially since i'm not paying $6.95 for shipping from stormer or horizon if all i need or all they have in stock is one $5 part.

[Fidelio]

i should add though that whatever storm parts i do find locally in shops, i usually buy them whether i need them or not as it's such a rarity to find them.

[BarryH]

There is nothing worse than sitting and watching others race because you are unable to replace a $3.00 broken part :(

Good luck this weekend!!

[Fidelio]

should i bring you my old pullstart this weekend Barry? ;)

[BarryH]

I am expecting a starter box and back plug soon, but am not sure if it will be here by the weekend . . . .

The guys want to come back from the fishing trip saturday night so I will be able to race on sunday if the weather holds up. :D

I rewound the broken pullstart last night, the spring also broke and is now about 4" shorter. It seems to work (sort of) so it might be good to have one nearby.

Have you ever been down to that track that you posted the video link for on the TFB forum? It looks pretty big and must be about an hour south of Atlanta.

[Fidelio]

i went down to the old Rodsligner track but haven't been to the new one, and yes, it's a looong drive for one afternoon of fun.

[Gmanlusk2004]

hey guys, long time since i've been here. I've been out or r/c for about 8 or 9 months and it looks like i'm gonna get back in full swing. but i need several new things to get my storm runnin how i want it.

New shocks (preferably not GS because... well, they suck)
Clutchbell
Main Gear
JR Receiver
piston and con rod (O.S. VZ-B)

Where would be the best places to buy these things???

Thanks,
Garrett

[Gmanlusk2004]

o yeah... storm avenger mkII?!?? not fair! i want lay down servos!

[Fidelio]

tower for the piston/conrod, ebay for the gears (no one else has both in stock), ebay or tower for kanai shocks, and ebay or horizon for the jr receiver.

horizon is exclusive u.s. distro for for JR. tower is exclusive on kyosho. and everyone is short on gs parts at the moment.

the only other place you may find all these things in one place is if you happened to live near an extraordinarily well stocked hobby shop.

[Gmanlusk2004]

just out of curiosity, but is there a super strength main gear? Because ever since i got the vz-b i started having the problem w/ my main gear. I've always had the problem w/ the clutchbell. And GS, if you are listening... make your shocks better! I'm no expert, but after 2 months, shouldn't the shocks still work. even if you don't change the oil???

thanks,
Garrett

[Fidelio]

if you're eating teeth on your gears then it sounds like you have mesh problems. in a year of racing i only went through one clutch bell (when a bearing blew out) and am still using the same spur, even though i have another as a backup.

depending on your driving and your cleaning schedule, i would say two months is about the longest you'd want to go without rebuilding your shocks (even if you only relube the orings and replace the oil), that's if you have no shock problems during that length of time. if you're having shock problems then obviously you're going to be elbow deep in shock oil much sooner than 2 months.

i agree that gs shocks are of very poor quality, but i wouldn't agree that any shock would make it more than 2 months without a servicing.

i run the kyosho super shocks (kanai) on my buggy and clean / inspect them after each weekend of racing, and while i do make it two months between 'rebuilds', i'm sure the reason i don't have shock problems is because i do maintain them at regular intervals.

however, with the gs shocks, i was rebuilding at least one a weekend, and would bend shock shafts under normal driving conditions, without wrecking or hitting the pipes. also the washers underneath the pistons in the gs shocks always wallowed out and let the piston slide up/down the shaft.

this is my experience, some have great luck with the gs shocks, i just wasn't one of them.

[Gmanlusk2004]

ummmm let me clarify. I don't race. I drove my car like 3 times in 3 months (weekends only) and the shocks: leak oil, bend/break, the cap pops off etc.

how are the ofna hyper 7 pcr shocks? i found a new set of 4 for sale on eBay for about 50 bux. is this a good idea?

[Fidelio]

i have no experience with them, but my buddy has the 9.5 pro and hasn't complained about the shocks.

[Gmanlusk2004]

hmm... and the hyper 7 is considered to be better than the 9.5 so they sound good to me. I'm not gonna race anymore, so durability is my only concern so the hypers just might be a-ok

[StormPilot]

I have started using the guy from RCnation.com He is great and knows his stuff. He buys direct from GS california and had really good prices.


I am having some serious issues with my storm. Maybe you guys could help. I start the engine and start warming it up. I make about 2 laps and the engine warms up to around 200 and flames out or dies. I really am at a loss. i have leaned it out. and richened it up to no avail. I have been at this for about a week. I now have to ask for some help. Today I started at 2 and 1/2 turns on the highspeed and flush on the low speed. I still get the same thing. I have replaced the glow plug also. Any help would be great.


Thanks
Darin Gray

[bravo_whiskey]

Fidelio,
I had my first club race yesterday. The track was really rough, this being the first official race of the year. The new Kanai III shocks were smooth as butter. Durability seems to be excellent too. I flamed out on the middle of the straight and another driver ran full bore into my rear, but no bent shafts!
All,
I broke my rear shock tower (again). I don't think I'll be buying another GS Pro tower. Does anyone have experience with the Storm towers offered by Dynamite or Fioroni? The pictures of the Fioroni towers don't show that they have the "ears" for the lower mounting points of the bulkhead. I thought I read somewhere that Fioroni had changed this and all the new ones would have those. I'm open to other suggestions. Anyone ever had any luck mounting up a tower made for another car? Some of the shock towers made for the Kyoshos and Mugens look indestructible.
Thanks.

[Fidelio]

yep, i've had the nut come off the top of a rear shock so it was just attached by the screw down on the arm, and have also had the screw come out of the bottom of the arm and just attached at the top, and in both cases with the kanai shocks they were no worse for wear. no bent shafts, no broken seals. i have been very impressed with the kyosho shocks.
i suspect the new avenger shocks will be much better and more durable.

as for shock towers i have had zero problems with the storm pro towers. i haven't seen the fioroni ones first hand so i couldn't tell you if they have the 'ears' or not. i haven't heard of anyone using a different brand.

i've taken some hard hits since using the pro towers and they're still nice and flat. maybe you just had a freak accident. at less than $20 i personally wouldn't hesitate to buy another pro tower as the ones i currently run have been very durable.

[doesgo]

Would you mind posting the part numbers or the specific application for the Kyosho shafts and pistons to use with the GS shocks? I'm going to be racing a Storm and SUT this summer and want to be prepared!

[Fidelio]

the kyosho shafts won't work in the gs shock bodies. the kyosho shafts are 3.5mm where the gs are 3mm. this difference means a different sized o-ring, and in turn means a different sized seat for the o-ring in the bottom of the shock body. the kyosho o-rings have an outer diameter of 7mm and inner diameter of 3.4mm. i couldn't find specs on the gs o-rings. as far as i know, it wouldn't work.

there's one very big downside to the kyosho shocks. the price of replacement parts. this is offset by the reduced need for replacement parts, but when/if you do need them, expect them to be pretty pricey.

you could buy the parts seperately and try it but if it didn't work you'd end up spending more than if you just bought the shock sets (linked below).
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXY0&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXEWP7&P=V

[bravo_whiskey]

Doesgo,
I'm not sure if any of the kyosho shock parts are interchangeable with the GS ones. I'm positive the shock shafts aren't. The kyoshos that Fidelio and I run are 3.5mm while the GS are only 3mm. We've both bit the bullet and purchased the whole Kyosho Kanai shock assemblies for our Storms. The springs and preload spacers are about the only things I'm 100% sure are interchangeable. Good luck with your racing!

[bravo_whiskey]

You beat me to the punch, Fidelio.

[Fidelio]

it was a tough pill to swallow paying $100 for a set of shocks but i can say now, it's some of the best money i've spent on my car. (apologies to Garen for my sullying this thread with another brand)

[doesgo]

I thought I read about people running Kyosho shafts and pistons in GS shock bodies, but I must have misunderstood it.

As it is, I only race about once per month (so far) so I guess I'll keep an eye on the washers and hope for the best.

First I gotta get my B01 working right anyway!

Thanks guys, you've been most helpful, as always.

[Gmanlusk2004]

here are some steps to get the b01 to work.

1. Take it out of your buggy
2. Sell it
3. Buy a new engine
4. Install new engine
5. Break in and enjoy!

[doesgo]

Great, that sure boosted my confidence! ;)

[bravo_whiskey]

Gman,
I'm sorry to hear that you had such a bad experience with the B01. What problems did you have with it? I have nothing but good things to say about that motor. For one thing, in all the time that I had it (which was about 3 gals.) it never broke the pull-start. Say that about most other R2R motors! It was pretty easy to tune and very reliable. I'd never call it the fastest motor at the track, but you can't compare it to RB's, Novarossi's, Sirio's, and Picco's. It's got lots of torque and fair top-end. For the money, I'd say it is a really good motor and others on this thread have had similar results with it.
I sold the motor to a fellow racer who was in need of a motor and didn't have much to spend. He's still running it. I think he has put another 2 gallons through it and thanks me all the time for selling it to him.

[BarryH]

Has anyone tried a different tuned pipe with the B01? Any suggestions for one to enhance that top end?

[doesgo]

Well, here's what the inside of my B01's carb looks like after less than one quart of fuel at my local dust-laden track. I think that filter cover gives me a false sense of security and makes it really easy to not realize when the filter is getting dirty!

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/b01dirt.jpg

So, should I get another B01 off eBay for about $60 or just go get an OS RG for $109? Decisions, decisions....

[Fidelio]

seeing that carb, and what's inside the filter neck, i'm guessing the motor is toast.

i had 6 gallons on my b01 before i stuck in another motor. still have the b01 as a backup. i loaned it to someone this weekend who was having motor trouble. while i tuned mine to kinda run like a dog, it was super reliable. the guy i loaned it to retuned it and the motor was looking great, until 5 minutes into the main he flamed it out at over 320*. i told him to tune it how he wanted, but reliability is something you have to remember and to not overtune your engine to get a punch out of it which it can't sustain.

i too never broke my pull start, and overall was very happy with the b01. for short and/or tight tracks, it's great. it's only when you get on a straight over 60' do people walk away from you.

personally, i think it's every bit as good as the RG and wouldn't hesitate to suggest it to someone in the market for an inexpensive .21, and with the prices they're going for on ebay they're hard, hard to beat for value.

[doesgo]

Okay, I've decided to walk on the wild side and ignore Fidelio's advice and not get a new B01 for my buggy. As always, money IS an object, so I'm trying to decide between:
1) O.S. .21RG at $120 (I've got one, I really like it, reliable, not a ton of power)
2) XTM 24.7 at $130 (put it in my SUT and put my RG in the Storm)
3) RB Concepts .21 5-port Sport at $155 (RB quality, unsure about performance)
4) Other suggestions in that price range?

Basically what I've got is an SUT, a Storm, and an O.S. .21RG with about three gallons through it that still runs great. I'm racing the SUT in Unlimited MT class (got third last weekend with my RG) and I'm going to race the Storm in the Sportsman class (rather than Pro) since I've never raced a 1/8 buggy before. I don't want anything too finicky or high-strung like a Wasp .26.

[kojak61]

Is the track you race on a short track? I mean are the strights 60 feet or less? If they are the RG will run with and beat a lot of the high end engines, because it has torque for days. It won't beat them on top end so if the rack has long strights and big sweeping turns, the RB Concepts might be best.

[doesgo]

The track is 160'x105' with a 150' straight, so it sounds like the RB would be the way to go.

Any comment on fuel economy? The 24.7 would suck fuel down at an alarming rate, I'd guess. I only got about five minutes of racing on 125cc with my GS SUT with the RG installed, although it was admittedly running on the rich side. That's one thing making me lean away from the XTM, I'd probably get even less runtime.

[Fidelio]

i wasn't pushing you to get another b01, just saying i had good results with mine and was happy with it. i have seen and talked to people who have had a horrible time with them. maybe i just got lucky.

[doesgo]

Sorry if I came off in a way I didn't intend, Fidelio! I have a great amount of respect for you, your experience, and your advice. I know there are some who like the B01, such as you, and some who don't care for it. That's probably true with all engines, I suppose.

I've heard tons of good and nothing bad about OS engines, RB engines, and not much bad about XTM 24.7s other than pullstart issues (which also plagued my RG-X). I have a GS25 in my Savage which is a rebadged SH, just like the XTM (I believe), and I like it a lot. So I'm basing my decision on price, reputation, my own experience, and that of other people.

[doesgo]

Oops, that RB engine is a 3-port not a 5-port.

[Fidelio]

I know there are some who like [a particular engine] and some who don't care for it. That's probably true with all engines, I suppose.

I believe this to be the case. Everyone has their preferences and experience, seldom are both the same from person to person.

btw - the b01 is also an SH engine.

[Gmanlusk2004]

well, if you want an engine that is extremely easy to tune, go w/ anything O.S. they are carb. masters.

but what about the hyper 8 port. those are good. and they very inexpensive too.

[doesgo]

I've owned a Hyper 8-port in the past. When it's running well it's an impressively-strong engine. But the other 90% of the time isn't very fun. They seem to be rather hit-or-miss, some people get good ones and love them, and some (like me) have poor experiences and vow to never again own another OFNA-labeled engine.

I'm still debating, unfortunately.
The XTM 24.7 has big power and as I become a better driver of my SUT I can make better use of that power and detune it for longevity in the meantime, but I'd bet the fuel economy is pretty bad with that big displacement.
The RG has OS's reputation for quality and tuneabilty and I really like the one I already have, but RGs aren't all that powerful and I wonder if I'll be wanting more engine before too long.
The RB Concepts CE is sure to be a high-quality piece of work, but I don't know anyone whose run one of these low-end RBs so I question the power and rpm range. And it costs more.

Round and round I go...

[bravo_whiskey]

Doesgo,
I've never seen one run, but if the RB CE is constructed with the same fit and finish as the other RB motors, then it's reliability will never be in question. I've read on the RB forums that this motor is no star performer in the performance category (at least compared to the other RB mills), but tuning and longevity are a 10 out of 10.
I'd stay away from the Ofna Hyper motors too. I've seen one too many grenade themselves into paperweights. Enough said.
Don't discount Ofna all together, however. Remember Ofna isn't really a manufacturer, just an importer. The Ofna Picco line-up still carries the same Italian-made quality as the Omega and Werks Picco's. That said, I think you may want to look at the Picco Comp that Ace has on special. Picco Comp (http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2517) It's normally sold for $200+ but on special it fits into your price range. Good motor. I have one, so I speak from experience. You didn't mention if you needed pull-start or not. If you do, the Picco sport is available in pull version.
Good luck with your decision.

[doesgo]

Thanks a lot for the advice, Bravo. You're right, the OFNA Picco engine is much more Picco than OFNA! I'm not too hip on the .26's finickiness, however. I'll check out the Picco Comp at Ace.

BTW, I don't need or want a pullstarter. I've seen some of the other RB engines perform, they're extremely impressive! I don't need that kind of performance, it would far exceed my ability to drive. This is my first time racing a buggy and I'm in the Sportsman (Club) class. If the RB CE is as powerful and can rev as well as or better than the O.S. RG, that's good enough for me.

Where can I find these RB forums?

Thanks again.

[Gmanlusk2004]

well, if you are in the sportsman class, then i think the RG would be just fine for you. What's the point of extra power if you can't control it? You can't race on your lid.

[bravo_whiskey]

Doesgo,
Here's the link to the RB website: RB Concept (http://www.rbproducts.com/index.php?L=En)
Click on the forums link and enjoy the reading. There's lots of good info there. Rody Roem even posts comments there frequently.

[doesgo]

That Picco Comp is appealing. What's a boost bottle really do? Can I cap the ports and run without one or do I need one with that engine?

As for adding more power than the RG (Gman), it's a tough call. I had trouble controlling my SUT with the GS25 in it, but that was on a tight track in a monster truck. I've found the buggy easier to handle, I can drive it better, and I'm racing on a 160'x105' track with a lot of longish straights.

The RG would probably suffice for me for this Sportsman class, but I'm hopeful to run the Pro class next year and I expect I'll be needing more power than the RG provides by that time. Since the Picco Comp is only $20 more than the RG and I'm buying an engine anyway, it's quite tempting.

[bravo_whiskey]

That Picco Comp is appealing. What's a boost bottle really do? Can I cap the ports and run without one or do I need one with that engine?

Boost bottle does nothing in my opinion. Yes you can cap the ports. I've run mine both ways and never noticed a single difference. Boost bottles were the craze for a while, but if you notice, now none of the top engine manufacturers are using them.

[doesgo]

Yes I have noticed that. Thanks.

[BarryH]

Has anybody tried running the Storm without the swaybars??

I wonder how this would work on a rough, loose, track.

[doesgo]

I'm wondering the same thing, I'll be running my Storm on a rough, loose track this weekend as well.

[Fidelio]

Barry, i took my front off 2 weekends ago and it hasn't made it back on my car. if the track hasn't changed this weekend i'll probably try it without the rear also.
it helps over the bump section and keeps the car through the ruts.

[BarryH]

That's what I've noticed on my 1/10 scale electric buggy and truck on the rough track. Did you notice if any work has begun on the new layout yet??

They are usefull on blue groove tracks without much ruts or big jumps. I would think 1/8 scale buggies would act the same.

[RCBASHERFREAK50]

my HSN fell of during break in today.. ithink the engine survived cuz it shut rite off

[Fidelio]

barry, when i dropped by today to check the track f.g. was mowing the grass and the track was the same. :mad: :rolleyes:

basherfreak, you'll want to tighten that up. ;)

[doesgo]

Can I run without a shock bladder? I tore mine last week, as you know, and ordered replacements from Horizon but have not yet received them. I'm concerned I won't get them until after the race.

If need be, and if the buggy and MT classes aren't right next to each other, I can swap a shock from my Storm to my SUT and back each time, but what a pain...

[Fidelio]

if you can find people at the track with other brands maybe they'll part with one as just about any 1/8 scale shock bladder should work.

not all shocks use bladders so yes, you can do it. what happens though is the air at the top of the cap instead of being seperated from the oil, gets churned up and mixed with the oil. the oil slings up into the top of the cap when the piston comes back down and also helps mix the air with the oil.

if your shocks had bleeder holes it wouldn't be possible to run w/o bladders because the oil would just leak out through the hole, but since the stock storm shock caps don't, you should be able to do it, just expect to have a really crappy working shock.

were i in your shoes, my order of preference: find someone with a bladder, any 1/8 bladder. > change shock from truck to buggy between heats. > run w/o bladder and have foamy shock syndrome.

[doesgo]

As always, thanks for the education and advice, Fidelio! Hopefully my Horizon order will arrive and I won't have to worry about it, but if I do I'll do my best to find someone with a bladder.

Those Yokomo diff thrust washers worked PERFECTLY, by the way! Turns out two stock shims were so bad they were able to slide down the shaft (I thought only one did) and the other two weren't quite to that point but were noticeably bent. Should never have to worry about THAT problem again!

[novak]

I have a Storm Pro,but I seem to lose my pins thats in the universals.The funny thing is it comes out on the diff side.They are supposed to be press fitted.Any other brand I can use?It chows up my hingepin blocks everytime.

[BarryH]

You could try using a short piece of shrink wrap tubing over that part of the universal to make sure the pins can not come out.

I have used this on the MIP CVD's on my electric truck and buggies with great success. You only need about a half inch or so of the tubing and when you apply heat to shrink it, just make sure it is snug, and well balanced so it will not slip off.

[Gmanlusk2004]

about the rough track... defenintly run w/ out sway bars. if the tires are on the ground more, the straighter you will drive(in the rough) and the faster you will go. tires spinning in the air do nothing (unless you are jumping :rolleyes: )

later

[doesgo]

Miscellaneous Storm Ramblings (bored at work)....

I just wanted to say one more "thank you" for the suggestion on how to fix the internal shock shim cupping deal! I thought only one was bad on my SUT, but it turns out all four were cupped to varying degrees, and the rear two on my Storm were also cupped. I replaced all eight with the Yokomo thrust bearing washers and I'm confident that'll be the end of those problems.

Unfortunatly Horizon still hasn't shipped my shock rebuild kits which I ordered about 10 days ago and the shocks won't seal without the bladder. Hopefully someone at the track will have something I can buy off them, else I'll be swapping a shock between my SUT and Storm between rounds. Also, the Picco Comp .21 engine I ordered from Ace Hardware Hobbies still hasn't arrived. They sent me a note with the air filters I received from them this past Tuesday (which I ordered at the same time as the engine) saying it was coming direct from OFNA, so now I have no idea when I'll get it. A friend sent me a used B01 so with any luck I'll receive that today so I can slap it in the Storm for the race tomorrow. The well-used OFNA Force 21 that's in there right now is dead reliable, but just won't rev. Not good on a track with a 150-foot straightaway.

Other than that I think I've got both ready for the race tomorrow, hopefully the rain holds off! I had to do the dual steering drag link on the Storm and I did a triple-decker job on the SUT to keep it rigid enough. The Pro link is on backorder everywhere. Other than the engine, drag link, and Yokomo shock washers it's pretty much a stock RTR Storm with longer arm-mount-block screws with nuts, shimmed servo saver, double shock towers, 3K/7K/1K diff lube, no sway bars, 35wt shock oil, blue OFNA springs, and Medial Pro Turbo tires. I ran this thing on my little homemade track last weekend and had a blast! Never had so much fun with nitro on a track as I did that day, it handled so nicely, controllable in the air, flew predictably.....great stuff.

My SUT is ready to go as well with an OS .21RG, RB086 pipe, triple drag link, 35wt/45wt shock oil, stock springs, no sway bars, 10K/30K/3K diff lube, longer mount screws with nuts, Hitec 645MG steering servo, shimmed servo saver, Pro-Line Velocity wheels, Trinity 3-piece foams, and Pro-Line Mulcher tires. Too much traction! But I can't afford to drop another $100 on a set of Bowties, wheels, and foams right now.

Hope you all have a great racing weekend!

[RCBASHERFREAK50]

i am putting the velcro to th ebody so i dont hasve to use clips anymore.......i will race tomorrow....... any thing i shud do or get ..any thing thatdoesnt hold up???? i have the storm rtr with komodo 1 tires

[doesgo]

Anything you should do or get for holding the body on or in general for Storm durability?

The only general Storm issues I've had are screws coming loose and the steering drag link bending. If all your stuff is Loctited and you don't land nose-down too many times, you should be fine! There's a list of recommended hop-ups for when the time comes, however. The top ones seem to be longer arm mount screws with nuts and fixing the shock shim issue.

[Fidelio]

glad you're squared away with the piston washers. eager to hear how your buggy and truck feel on the track when the shocks are working correctly. let us know how they do. :)

[RCBASHERFREAK50]

i won 1st in sportsman and 4th in expert with a stock storm rtr...i killed the mugans and kyoshos

[Fidelio]

congratulations, i too pulled out the win for GS today.

[bravo_whiskey]

RCBASHERFREAK50 & Fidelio, Congrats on your wins. It must be a good weekend for team GS. I pulled out a top-of-the podium finish in the A-main with my Storm today too. 2nd place was a Storm R2R. Awesome! Gotta love this car with performances like this.

[Gmanlusk2004]

hey... maybe it might be more than the car. with so many high performance rtr's on the market today (excluding all of ofna ultra series cars because they straight up suck) they are all very much alike. maybe it's the driver too!

later

[doesgo]

Wow, a GREAT weekend for GS Storms! I TQ'd and won the A-Main in the 1/8 Buggy Sportsman class yesterday! And that was with a used B01 engine I got in the mail the day before the race. Not that I'm a stellar driver or anything, it WAS the Sportsman class after all, but man, that was so cool! I guess the average power combined with my average, non-agressive driving style just worked.

I was trading the lead with a guy driving a Lightning Pro and he decided to risk not making a second fuel stop while I did make one. He ran out of fuel with about a minute left. Racing is a friggin' blast!

Yes Fidelio, I really like how the shocks acted with 35wt oil, OFNA blue springs, and the Yokomo washers. What a fun vehicle to drive!

[doesgo]

I didn't fare quite a well with my SUT, by the way. I was 2nd in qualifying, which was cool, but not only did I break a CVA shaft at the cross pin (which caused me to miss the second qualifying round), but in the Main we were just under way when I slid a little, was just getting going again and a guy hit me from the side and sheared off a rear arm mount screw head. Curses! I honestly think I could have won that one, too. I also took second place in the Gas Truck Sportsman class with my RC10GT. All in all, a great race day!

[Fidelio]

well today at a different track i tq'd the first two heats but in the second half of the second heat i heard some nasty grinding coming from my car, especially when i hit the brakes. so the second half of the heat i was staying off the brakes but still managed to tq. luckily my time held up for the 3rd heat as i was busy wrenching.

as it turns out, i pretty well baked my rear diff ring and pinion. how i don't know but the gears are about 14 months old so i don't feel bad, they had a good run. luckily i had a fresh pinion which i installed with new bearings and did my best to clean up the ring gear, diff case, and diff cup. i checked the spider gears and refilled it while the 3rd heat ran. i ran a practice lap before the main to make sure the ring gear wasn't going to just slip at the starting line but it seemed ok.

since i was still tq i got a jump on the pack at the sound of the horn and we were off racing.
when the dust settled i took home another win, and thankfully my gears held up.

not a bad weekend. 2 days, 2 tracks, 2 wins. :)
the downside is i'll have to see if i can hunt down some new gears this week and i'm pretty broke just having bought 3 sets of wheels and tires, and of course gas and race fees. :(

such is the life of a racer i guess.

[doesgo]

Congrats Fidelio, two wins in two days is fantastic!

[Fidelio]

somebody has a new pro chassis on the way (doesgo). ;)
grats, you'll enjoy it.

me, i have gears and a week of eating leftovers coming. :)

[doesgo]

Holy cow! I never expected to win that one. I also got an RTR chassis yesterday for $25. LOL! So, now that I own it, what are the benefits of the Pro chassis besides the teflon coating and it's purdy? :) Obviously I was bidding based on rumors and reputation rather than actual knowledge about the product!

[Mika]

Congrats from Finland, too, Fidelio!
I've got my Storm coming next week, it's the RTR chassis version with the GS non-pullstart "sport" engine plus other stock parts. Can't wait to get on track with local Hobaos (OFNA hyper in US) and Kanais, I will keep you guys posted.
So far I've been racing onroad with my HPI Super RS4 and kicking 1/10's and 1/5's asses. Now it's Hobaos turn :-D
Here's my Super with Nonarossi engine http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1459986#post1459986
Cheers,
-Mika

[Fidelio]

thanks mika.

doesgo, it's hard coated and machined out of 7075 alum instead of the 6061 of the rtr chassis. it resists scratches and gouging much better than the rtr one and is much more rigid as well. it's milled out in low stress areas for weight savings and is overall, in every respect, a superior quality product.

[doesgo]

Great info, as usual. Thanks!

[BarryH]

I managed to get a second place finish right behind fidelio on sunday with my storm (in spite of my late start due to the engine dying on the starting line . . .) my best finish yet!

I also barely got beat by doesgo on that pro chasis ebay auction :p

[Fidelio]

next week I may not be so lucky eh barry?

yeah barry, i even sniped at it knowing you wanted one. i only saw you lurking at the auction end, but doesgo is the man this week. :)

there was another one that went tonight for an unbelievably low $31.50 which I forgot to check back on. i see you did as well. don't you want to just kick yourself? :p
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5901863939&rd=1

[doesgo]

$31.50! That's in-friggin'-sane!

[BarryH]

Dang!! $31.99 and you didn't buy if for me????? I'm still kicking myself for missing that one for $41 last week.

I was watching the $31 one but saw "(SIDE GUARDS ONLY FIT TRUCK)" and quit watching it. I didn't look closely enough to see that the chasis would fit the truck or buggy . . .

Go ahead and cook some more diffs next week. I've got you covered as my last week purchases arrived today!! Also got that steering part I owe you.

[StormPilot]

Yea somebody outbid me at the last minute. I was at 31.00 I also got beat on the gearboxes. i am starting to get pissed. Everytime I bid on something someone outbids me at the very last minute. I tryed to stay up but had to go to bed and go to work this morn. It really sucked.

Oh well get'um next time...LOL



Darin Gray

[Fidelio]

stormpilot, it's unfortunate but i learned early on (the hard way) that 99% of the real action takes place in the last 3 minutes of an auction and the winning bidder, usually within the last minute. cuthroat and sad, but true.

barry, i may need you to cover me as you know how long it takes to receive a shipment from them. i emailed them asking for alternate shipping after the auction and they feigned some weak story as to why they wouldn't. so i'm not expecting those parts until a week from wednesday. :(
as soon as that package does arrive i'll have the clutchbell i owe you, although i still have the one you gave me. it ended up not going on my car last weekend.

as for the chassis, i would have bought it for you if it hadn't slipped my mind. i remembered it about an hour too late. having seen your tracks in the morning i must have forgotten the auction thinking you were sure to be donning your guille suit. ;)

[BarryH]

LoL on the guille suite, I will dust it off for the next auction . . . .

There is no rush on the clutch bell, I doubt that it will be needed in the next couple weeks. I'll be sure to bring an extra rear diff on Sunday if that is what you need. If you want it earlier, email me at my ebay id @mindspring.com and we can figure out a way to get it to you before the weekend.

If you go up to the 'bowl on Saturday, could you grab me a Kyosho shock rebuild kit and a set of the white teflon pistons if they have them?

[Fidelio]

you can probably get it just as fast and just as cheap by ordering them from tower with their parts express shipping being only $3.50 or something. i'll pick them up if you still want to go that route though.

better yet, come out to the bowl and race! you can get 'em while you're there. :D

[BarryH]

Darren, Thanks for the idea on the parts express. I would have expected a hefty shipping charge from Tower, but it is reasonable for fast service on those small parts. I went ahead and ordered them.

When does the racing at Sugarbowl start on Saturday? Thier web site seems to be dead . . .

I doubt that I can swing two race days in the same weekend (without paying for a divorce) but might be able to swing by to just see the place. Also, I work up around I-75 and Windy Hill so I could meet you somewhere around lunch-time if you want to pick up some diff parts before the weekend. PM or email me and I'll give you my cell Phone #

[Fidelio]

last weekend was the sugarbowl's first weekend on their summer race schedule. they have great track lighting which allows night racing. i would expect races to start this saturday at 5pm. last week they were holding the GasCar oval race during the day which pushed the offroad back to a start time of 8pm. this weekend should start earlier though and i would expect to be done racing around 9-10pm depending on how many people show up.

if i wreck my gears again on saturday, i'll just catch up with you on sunday. i don't see a need to replace em just yet. they're holding on for the moment. thanks for the offer though.

[Mika]

Buddies, a couple of questions (getting my Storm next week :- )

a) Does Proline bodies fit? Or, what bodies do you use ?
I know it comes with a prepainted GS body, but would like to paint my own.

b) Tires and wheels ? What's good for hard packed mud and dirt ? Crime Fighters?

c) Getting a WORKS single chamber .21 pipe; at least it's damn good looking ;-)
Hope it fits to the stock engine w/o a pull start and stock header. After that's
worn out, what NOVAROSSI engine do you suggest ? (NovaRossi/Top/REX all fine by me)

d) Does the RTR come with fluid-filled diffs?

Thanks in advance!
-Mika

www.snrt.net

[TC3Racer]

a.) the Proline Crowd Pleazer body will fit the Storm. Pretty good looking body. Also if you want your own GS body you can buy clear bodies seperately.

b.) i run GS white dish rims with Proline Crime Fighters. They hook up very well and i love 'em. Definitely check those out. The knuckles look like really solid tires as well.

c.) i would check out the 421B engine. I haven't seen it or had any experience with it but it seems to be a very solid engine that runs well on buggies. Definitely a powerhouse. check out www.rcmart.com they have a sale on that engine right now.

d.) yes the stock RTR comes with fluid filled diffs. i dont know what fluid is in them but i would reccomend 5K in the front, 7K center, 1K rear.

[stormer]

Hi I'm new to nitro rc,and purchased myself a gs storm rtr.Great acceleration and handling! And the storm box I found a small plastic bag containg a plastic black part with a hole at the top with 4 small holes Iguess to mount it and 2 screws about 14mm. long,does anyone know what it's for and where it goes??? Thank-You

[doesgo]

FYI, my RTRs (both Storm and SUT) did NOT come with fluid in the diffs, just grease.

stormer, it sounds like you're referring to the transponder mount, which is attached to the outside edge of the servo plate and hangs out over the mud guard.

[stormer]

Hi doesgo,ok do you mean it's an extra part or an add on that I have to install? I'm not sure what a transponder mount is or where it goes,like I said I,m new to all this stuff,but can you make it more clear to me,i'd appreciate,Thank's

[doesgo]

I see where you're coming from. A transponder is part of the electronic lap-counting system that most tracks use. It's a little device that has a number associated with it and (I believe) a unique frequency that tells the counting system that you've crossed "the line".

If you don't race, you won't need the mount. If you do race it's convenient to have a transponder mount, but you can race without a mount by simply putting a body-mount-size hole in your body somewhere and mounting the transponder through that hole.

Some people have personal transponders, but most folks use the ones supplied by the track. At least at the amateur racing level.

[stormer]

Ok doesgo thanks I'm learning a whole lot of stuff here!

[Speedtester]

As Doesgo said, the RTR does not come with diff fliud, just grease. I used 5k-7k-2k and it seems to hook up pretty good.



a.) d.) yes the stock RTR comes with fluid filled diffs. i dont know what fluid is in them but i would reccomend 5K in the front, 7K center, 1K rear.

[Mika]

TC3Racer and others, big thanks! Let's see what I get here.. :-D
Couldn't find the NOVA @Dinball, all sold out already?

Any opinion on this older one #RX-21 WMO, fits Storm?
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_38_387_508&products_id=4983

Well, I think this one would be to go with?
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_38_387_508&products_id=6785

I'll keep you posted,
-Mika

[Fidelio]

it's the crowd pleazer for the mp7.5 that fits the storm, not the mbx5 crowd pleazer.
just be sure when you mark it up to cut it out you don't follow the body post holes already dimpled in the body as the holes for the storm are in a different location. same for the antenna.

[Mika]

Thanks Fidelio again!

[stormer]

Hi ! Did any of you try on your storm rtr to change the bell crank to a 14tooth instead of the original 13t ? I'm looking for a little more top-end!

[TC3Racer]

yeap thats what i have on mine!

I run a 14 tooth clutchbell with my Paris/Picco G1. Its nice because that engine already has insane low end power so with a 14 i can push that into the mid-range a bit more. I definitely reccomend the switch.

[StormPilot]

I am switching to the 14 tooth also. I just bought a new mill. I am going to run the XTM pro .21. I am breaking it in in thur. night. A guy at my track has one and for a low cost engine they really scream. His is in a Hyper 7, but I now mine will be faster since it's in the storm...LOL


Darin Gray

[Mika]

Buddies, this has been asked before likely but what are the weakest parts that break first? I've read plastic quality isn't so good, for eaxmple, some break their stock diffs, some have bent shock towers easily, some say it's just as durable as other buggyes. So, name good to candidates to put into order right away, thanks!

Seondly, what are the biggest differences between Pro and Sport ? I know there's some carbon etc. but the essential ones..

thanks,
Mika

[Fidelio]

biggest difference between the pro and the rtr for performance are the shock towers, chassis, and chassis braces.

biggest difference between the pro and the rtr for durability are the shock towers, chassis, and steering plate (drag link).

first things to add/upgrade on an rtr would be the pro shock towers, and the addition of the suspension hinge pin braces with longer screws through the suspension blocks and nuts on top.

[Mika]

Thanks! Can you buy those from GS as kit or separately? Would you prefer Fioroni parts for Shock Towers instead?

[Fidelio]

the front and rear shock towers are sold seperately, as are the front and rear hinge pin braces, front and rear chassis braces, and steering plate. they're all sold seperately but the shock towers do include some mounting hardware, and the hinge pin braces include a pair of longer hinge pins per package. GS does offer a screw/nut package for the suspension. The kit includes 8 M4x20mm, 4 M4x8 Countersunk Cap Screws, 8 M4 Stainless Steel Nylon Lock Nuts. The link is below:
http://www.gsracing.com/gsracing/page.asp?pg=products&catid=52&fatherid=49&rootid=0&id=418

I haven't had any problem with the storm pro shock towers. The front one is 4mm thick and both are made of 7075 aluminum compared to the 3mm 6061 of the rtr towers. Not having any issues with the gs pro towers, i haven't tried, and have no preference towards the Fioroni towers although i'm sure they're excellent quality as with all Fioroni parts.

[doesgo]

I don't have much Storm-driving experience yet, but I DO know that the stock drag link is one of the first things to go (at least for me).

I doubled-up two stock shock tower plates front and rear before ever driving it and haven't had any problems yet, but I've already bent my stock drag link. The quick-and-dirty (and cheap) solution is to buy a second RTR drag link and sandwich them together with some JB Weld. It works.

[novak]

Hi there,where will I be able to buy an O'donnell cooling head for my RB WS7II?I love the looks of it and it will look pretty sick with my storm.Any help or advice will be appreciated.Thanks guys.
PS:Keep this forum running.

[TC3Racer]

The main problems i've had with my Storm are the freakin' diffs. I have stripped 7 diff gears and 2 sets of ring and pinions. Other than that it has taken a SERIOUS beating and just keeps coming back for more. I have broken 2 a-arm mounts so i reccomend getting those in aluminum or something if you can.

[Fidelio]

just curious, do you land your jumps on power?

my diffs have been one of the most reliable parts of my car. it took me 14+ months to kill a pair of ring/pinion gears and replaced the bevel gears at the same time, not because they were stripped or worn, but because i figured they'd seen enough action for one lifetime.

good bearing maintenance and proper shimming are also critical to a long lasting diff. if a bearing locks up the excess heat can quickly cause problems. it's also important to make sure your diff cases stay clean inside. bad bearings or a poor seal will let dirt in. if your diff case screws securing the two halves are too tight this can cause excess friction and heat.

[Mika]

What bell do you use with the GS-21B01 13T or 14T for a medium size track with lots of bumps and turns..13T ?

About diffs, I'd also assume that if you run them dry (without fluid or grease) they'll worn out much quickier

[Fidelio]

13T for me.

[stormer]

ok finally installed my ofna 053 tune pipe that I heard so much good of compared to the stock pipe! But I'm having all kinds of tunig problem,bogs on acceleration and stalls most of the time.With the stock pipe it was runng fine.Any clues or past experience with after market pipes?

[BarryH]

Why the 053? That is for low end which the RTR motor has plenty of. I put on the OFNA 086 which seems to help out the top end which was weal IMO.

[stormer]

Why the 053? That is for low end which the RTR motor has plenty of. I put on the OFNA 086 which seems to help out the top end which was weal IMO.

I read in the thread and the rc magazine that thew 053 is for midrange!

[stormer]

did any of you play around with the fuel pressure line and fuel line length?
Also I read a member said that with the ofna 053 he got 37% more power through out the entire ranfe!

[Speedtester]

37% seems a bit high.
I usually run about 6"-7" on both the fuel and pressure lines.
Everyone experiments with diffrent lengths but from what I've heard
you want to keep them someone close in length

[Mika]

changes in pressureline length should not matter unless extremely long.. fuel line should be quite long in order to keep engine running when flipping the car (enough fuel to burn until the car is turned)

I'm putting WORKS .21 single chamber today, let's see.. Jeff from Fantom said it's race legal although there's no EFRA or FEMCA marks on it. We will see. I have nothing but good experience using dual chamber WORKS pipe on my Super Nitro ( http://www.snrt.net/works21.jpg )

[stormer]

ok thank's I will measure my fuel pressure line,and will let you know about the performance change with the ofna 053 pipe!

[StormPilot]

Well I just got my XTMpro .21 broke in. This is a really powerful and "cheap" mill. I can really notice a difference btween this and the stock B01 engine. It is fast and stable.

Different topic I run about 2 ft of intake fuel line and a lrg fuel filter. On the pressure side I run the line out of the pipe,about 3 in. have a med fuel filter, then I run the line around the steering pipe and into the tank. I use the filter on the pressure side, because of the onroad guys. After a pit stop I do not have the sluggish feeling that I did with staight line. The filter allows any splash back from stopping the pressure. I also make sure that my filter for my intake is higher that the tank and the carb inlet. This allows any air bubbles to collect in the filter and they do not get passed onto the carb. Since I started doing this I have noticed a much more constant tune and it holds throughout the race no matter how much fuel is in the tank.


Darin Gray
RCSX EUGENE

[Mika]

Hello buddies, got my STORM on track today and what a ride it was! Here's a pic of the beauty (7075S Pro shock Towers and steering plate not in the picture although already installed :) )

http://www.supernitros.com/storm2.jpg

The b01 engine was awesome just like the whole package; Fantom WORKS pipe executed flawlessly with the engine! Being an onroad driver, I just need slight training here... ;-)

[StormPilot]

That is a sharp looking ride. Good luck with it and have fun

Darin Gray
RCSX EUGENE OR

[Gmanlusk2004]

yeah... with your ride, you gotta make sure you keep those shocks in good working order. I dislike the GS shocks very much. when they wear out, don't fix them, replace them

[Mika]

OK, let's see. My racing is not going to happen on daily basis, likely monthly so I suspect they will last fine unti the next season 05. The clutch needed some shimming to avoid shoes moving in collisions; anyone had that problem? Also getting Proline Crime Fighters soon.
Thanks for the tip,
-Mika

[smoky]

hey guys. ive got a rtr storm. well it was rtr its far from it now. ive got every aluminun hop-up from dynamite. basically to make it bullet proof i dont race just bash. i was wonderng if anyone knew anywhere i couild get some aluminum suspension arms to top it all off. also was wondering what parts i would need to convert to a monster truck or shoul i just buy the conversion kit? thanks for the help.

[doesgo]

yeah... with your ride, you gotta make sure you keep those shocks in good working order. I dislike the GS shocks very much. when they wear out, don't fix them, replace them
What makes these shocks so bad? Other than the thin shim under the piston, I really like mine a lot. Then again, I'm a racing noob and don't have experience with other 1/8 buggy shocks.

[doesgo]

Smoky,
You'll need either Dominator wheels or the SUT wheel extenders, the center diff top plate, the SUT spur (more teeth to accomodate the large MT tires), SUT shock towers, and a strong steering drag link. I think the SUT's servo plate, chassis, and mud guards are different from the Storm's, but I don't recall why.

But at $170 for the Pro conversion kit, that's the route I'd go, especially considering it includes the Pro chassis and shock towers rather than RTR stuff.

[mattyk6]

Fioroni makes a set of aluminum arms. They are spendy though, like $160.

http://www.gsracing.com/gsracing/images/products/OT-GS12.jpg


Fioroni Aluminum Arms (http://www.gsracing.com/gsracing/page.asp?pg=products&catid=31&fatherid=8&rootid=1&id=82)

[Fidelio]

What makes these shocks so bad? Other than the thin shim under the piston, I really like mine a lot. Then again, I'm a racing noob and don't have experience with other 1/8 buggy shocks.

not speaking of gs shocks in particular but some problems with shocks are:

weak shafts (bend)
weak piston washer (the shim you referred to)
brittle pistons (break)
incorrect sizing of o-ring specs (don't seal well and leak)
incorrect sizing of o-ring specs (would also let dirt inside)
caps don't seal well (and leak)
weak caps (pop off in hard crash)
caps don't seat bladders correctly (letting oil behind bladder)
pistons that rub shock bodies
shock bodies that rub pistons
o-ring cartridge not secured properly (internal pressure could cause the whole lot to blow out)

[Gmanlusk2004]

^^^i couldn't have said it any better. although you said that you weren't speaking of GS shocks in particular, i would have. I think that some of the best shocks for the money are the ofna hyper 7 series shocks. they are threaded (good or bad depending on how you look at it), and i know they work.

[Mika]

Hi buddies, after breaking my lower arm holders in front (stock plastic) I replaced them front and rear with the PRO T6 aluminium ones. I got 2 different sets 3 deg and 1.5 deg, so I installed 1.5 in front. Seems the car sits a bit lower in front and was actually nice to drive on local track. It changes caster as well? What is your pro feeling about these.. should I consider 3 deg parts instead..?
I also got a SUT support plate for front but I could not fit it, I guess it's due to the 1.5 degr parts..
-Mika

[Mika]

Stupid question or too difficult..? ;-) Does anybody else use the 1.5 degr lower arm holders (caster blocks/anti-squat) ?

[doesgo]

Sorry Mika, I just don't know the answer! I'm still using the stock mounts.

[Mika]

OK :D No worries, just asking you know...

[Fidelio]

so you're saying you have 8 alum blocks?
afaik you just turn them around one way or the other to get the different squat angles.

[garen]

Mika- For most tracks, we use 3 degree antisquat (suspension mount) blocks in the rear of the car. In the front, you can try different angles for varying conditions. Stock blocks are 3 degree, option blocks are 1.5 degree. The front chassis kickup is 8 degrees. If you mount the 3 degree blocks in the stock fashion, you will have a total of 5 degrees of arm kickup (8-3=5). If you mount the 1.5 blocks the same way you will have 6.5 degrees of kickup. You may also mount the blocks upside down to get 9.5 and 11 degrees of kickup. Fioroni has a mounts that are 1 or 2 degrees depending on which side you mount down, so you can get 6, 7, 9, or 10 degrees. More kickup (i.e. 9-11 degrees) will generally work better on rough tracks, as the car will soak up bumps better, with a slight loss in steering. If you do add kickup, you should check and if need be shave material from the upper arm and/or c-hub to avoid binding. You should also double check your front toe as it will change slightly.
If you get the OT-GS30 Fioroni chassis conversion kit, it comes with a -1 degree mount (7 degrees of kickup). For most tracks in the US, we use the +1 degree optional mount.

[Mika]

OK, good info, thanks guys. Not eight, but 2+2 only, so I installed the 3 degr parts rear, 1.5 in front; that's why the lower feeling in front I guess.. The track is rough and very bumpy and I feel it made a slight difference having 1.5 degr parts in front to better direction.. not sure though. It may also due to many other things like inserted oils in diffs, optional dual springs installed etc. But this is good info to think about.

Here's my Storm after driving it in pretty wet conditions at the weekend:
http://www.snrt.net/storm/storm_in_dirt3.jpg

The clutch needed some big shims inside to keep the shoes not moving. I also had richen the b01 low-speed needle from factory settings quite a bit to avoid it leaning out too much. But after doing that I really got the engine going.

Thanks,
-Mika

[Mika]

Guys, please find some pictures of the Storm here:
http://www.snrt.net/storm/storm.html

[Gmanlusk2004]

those are good pix man. where are you located anyway?

[Mika]

Thanks Gman. far far away close to North Pole between Sweden and Russia - in Finland. Home of Kimi Raikkonen and Mika Hakkinen (F1).
Thanks,
Mika

[Fidelio]

and Marcus Gronholm. :)

[Mika]

Absolutely :-)

[Gmanlusk2004]

and penguins... right?! right?! am i right?!!! haha jk.

i still have no shocks, i could use some. If ANYBODY wants to donate me some shocks it would be fantasmic. I"m a lowlife bum. i have no money. and i need some shocks!!!
lol
later

[Mika]

Yeah, the only thing close to penguins here is me on track ;-) Well, tried to look up for strom shocks from ebay and found a couple http://search.ebay.com/storm-shocks_W0QQsokeywordredirectZ1QQfromZR8 and few others
http://search.ebay.com/1-8-shocks_W0QQsofocusZbsQQsbrftogZ1QQfromZR10QQsatitl eZ1/8Q20shocksQQsosortpropertyZ1QQsosortorderZ1

[Gmanlusk2004]

hey thanks for the help... but i said donate. lol jk. I'm actually in debt up to my ears. i owe someone 900 dollars. haha

[Mika]

sorry, can't help then

[Mika]

Anyone played with shock oils; I replaced front oils a bit heavier ones (50) since the springs are now harder than stock, I also replaced rear oils with 40 GS oil. Let's see. Hope it's not going too stiff direction.. hopefully I get on track today for testing.