Team Losi XXXNT forum v8.0

[cave]

I read that the RTR got up to over 30MPH W/ the Mach .15 here on this site. That was back on Vol. 5.

GS you going to be at SRS for the track redoo? Most peps out there just want to redo the jumps and run the opposite direction. I like that idea.

cave

[cave]

tr918 thats a cool article. I never new some of that stuff. I learn sumptin new everyday.

cave

[Strike 4]

A little late but here (http://www.***********.com/news/default.asp?cmd=view&articleid=611) ...

[Got Speed]

cave- Yeah I should be there. You going to be there? Is Scott going to just redo the jumps and run it backwards? Or does he want a whole new track? I'm going to be there this saturday too. Are you going to be out there? Where do you get your Trinity fuel and how much? I'm thinking of going back to that since I have to drive a long way to get the odonnell. If I can find some nitro locally I'm going to start mixing my own instead though.

[LoSick]

Strike 4- the rages with 3.6 of diameter work fine, the foams from trc are 3 1/8 and the jacos are 3 3/8. don´t you think that adding a 20t bell would be enough to prevent burnouts and to compensante in the loss of roll out ratio? I mean I could even get the trcs in blue or pink and evenmore to prevent rollout loss. The point is that I need the best grip possible, now even more with the fantom works pipe coming next week. Or you just think that I should try and see what is the most convenient to obtain the best combination of grip and wear. the only thing is that I don´t know the compound of the jacos

[MikeWz]

Well.......Since I can run my Mugen because I so stupidly stripped out the shaft I slapped my Mach back in. I just ported it to give a bit more power. However, I can't get the stupid thing to work right. The fuel won't stay in the line. So, I though, "Hey, I guess my LSN is a little off" so I adjusted it both ways. No go. Well I accidentaly pulled the fuel line off my pipe and didn't realise it and the fuel stayed in the line. Put the line back on the pipe and started the car. However no more fuel came up to the carb. I don't understand it. It's only when it's hooked up to the pipe. I would think maybe I have a leak in the carb or the back plate but why then would it stay in when I don't have the exhaust line hooked up to the pipe? I'm stumped. If anybody could help me that'd be excellent.

[Strike 4]

Originally posted by LoSick
Strike 4- the rages with 3.6 of diameter work fine, the foams from trc are 3 1/8 and the jacos are 3 3/8. don´t you think that adding a 20t bell would be enough to prevent burnouts and to compensante in the loss of roll out ratio? I mean I could even get the trcs in blue or pink and evenmore to prevent rollout loss. The point is that I need the best grip possible, now even more with the fantom works pipe coming next week. Or you just think that I should try and see what is the most convenient to obtain the best combination of grip and wear. the only thing is that I don´t know the compound of the jacos

Ignore that post about the gearing I run foams on dirt lol:o ...

I was about to start my car for the first time what do you know ignitor batteries ran out! I am charging them now lol...

[winning edge designs]

Mike, sometimes in a well sealed system you'll have to open the carb to allow fuel to get up to and in the carb. Try that, if not it's also possible the high end needle is closed to far, which also would prevent fuel from feeding up the line. Last thing to try is carefully applying pressure to the engine by blowing into the pressure line by mouth(watch for fuel and clean before hand though)........If fuel doesn't go to the carb you have a major leak in the line, tank, or carb itself.....hope this helps, Jim

[Strike 4]

I got it started and bliped the throttle for a tank running 224, however, the screw that holds the steering servo to the joints fell off:mad: it is a cool car but can be very fustrating!!!

[Got Speed]

Strike 4- The screw that holds the steering servo to the servo mount? Or the servo arm on? The servo mount screws wouldn't come out unless the holes were stripped. The throttle arm screw shouldn't come out if it is plastic(unless the hole is stripped) and if it is metal geared then just put some lock tite on it.

[Strike 4]

It was the steering servo arm and I think it didn't have the right threads... I am still working on it...

[winning edge designs]

Strike, did you get the RTR? I know when I biuld them myself I never have any trouble, because i'll take 3 or 4 nights during assembly making sure everything is perfect(or as close as possible) as I go.....No trophy for fastest biuld! Unless your selling RTR's, LOL...:), Jim

[cave]

Got SPeed Whats up buddie. Hey I used to get Pure Nitro out at Firebird Race Way in Maricopa of the 10. Very costly. Methanol is cheap you can get a gallon of race proof for around 4 bucks. Good Klotz Oil around 9 bucks. This will treat 5 gallons of methanol 10 gallons of race gas. Oil ratios may differ in these smaller motors. Nitro cost anywhere from 25 bux to 75 bux a gallon. If any nationals are going on youll pay dearly You do however need a racers licence. There is a guy who has a dragracing license from firebird at SRS. You dont need the license for drag boats :D .
I dont know if I'll be there Saturday of the 3rd. I may be there this Saturday 12/27.

cave

[smacked]

Hey guys I am getting a new xxx-nt and I have a mugen/novarossi mt-12 laying around and was wondering if it will drop in. It has a slide carburetor and rear exhaust...

[winning edge designs]

smacked, as long as it has a standard threaded crank it will botl right in, needing only a rear exhaust manifold. If it's an SG it won't work with the off-road 1/10th scale clutch stuff..........Jim

[smacked]

What about the linkage? Doesn't it need to be changed or something?

[smacked]

Can SG shafts be cut to be short?

[Strike 4]

I don't have a manual, anyways I installed the ball joint upside down without knowing it and installed the servo in the 2nd lower set of holes. It works fine, should I pull it apart and redo it or leave it alone?

[winning edge designs]

smacked, if you buy a rtr i'm not sure if it comes with slide linkages like the kits do. If you get the drake or even standard XXX-NT it will have both set-ups included. An SG style crank can't be cut to work, they are for 1/10th on-road and 1/8th scale only.

Strike4, I would change it myself, but it probably isn't "necassery" to do so. The problem might be a big difference in left to right end point adjustments, but if it's within your radios range of adjutsment, probably not a big deal............It would still bug me knowing it isn't "right", :).



.....Jim

[Got Speed]

cave- $25 is about what I though. I figure I could make a gallon of 20% nitro fuel 10% oil for about $13. I'm thinking about making it like Trinity Platinum with 2% extra castor oil. Are there any drag boat shops around you know of that sell the Nitro? I should be at the track this saturday and next satruday(27th and 3rd.)

[Animeboy123]

YAY i finally got my XXXNT Sport :D

i have a few questions first, the air filter is already oiled and stuff right?? if not what type of oil would u use??

also aside from the thread locking and the diff adjustment, is there any other major preperations??

Thanks, Im totaly new to nitro just so u know :D

[MikeWz]

W.E.D-The thing is, when the car is running (I can run it around for about 5-10seconds) it still quites cause it's not getting fuel in, so I don't think it's that the carb needs to be opened. I'll have to try adjusting my High Speed Needle. It's the first time running the Fantom pipe on the Mach so maybe I just need to re-tune it for that. If not, what kind of sealent do you guys use? Silicone right?

Animeboy-The airfilter is already oiled yes
The other thing you'll have to take your time with in adjusting is your engine. Espeically during the break in. You'll want to get a Temp guage to monitor your temps. During break in you want it between 190-200 degrees and a well tuned engine should run between 210-220.

[LoSick]

Hey Smacked, pilots shafts (SG cranks) have a different crank thread size compared to the standard (1/4 28, to 5mm) so your clutch nut will not work. A short thread is more likely to fit your xxx nt, just make sure that you use blue loctite since you have 2 turn or less to tight the nut. I have used os engines with short cranks with no problems at all. as for the linkage, you´ll only need a 180 arm for the slide carb with a ball cup for the threaded rod. the rtr comes with 90 arms for the mach 15 rotary carb.
Anime boy, I use klotz foam filter oil and cleaner, they work great and provide similar protection to your foam filter oil, and best of all, the foam filter will last longer than your dollar 3 ounce filter oil.
got speed, I make my own fuel out from klotz, run os engines with 12% oil, 20 nitro, with a ratio of 50% benol castor , 50% synthetic 101. the hsn, is about 1 1 /4 and still rich. but man, runs like on 30 percent nitro, 18 oil.

[Animeboy123]

OK thanks MikeWZ, i am curently finishing up the threadlocking part, on the diff should the left tire be really hard to turn b/c i couldnt even turn the tire.

Is this right??

[Strike 4]

Agreed I will change it later on, dang this car is fast lap times improved buy 3 seconds over my GT and I haven't even got use to it. I think I need to get Ti Turnbuckles but what else? I don't realy want any graphite just yet plastic is fast enough for me, so I just worry about durability...

[Got Speed]

Strike 4-Just like the RTR GT kits the RTR Losi could use a few things. Ti. turnbuckles and an alum. pivot block are good. I was able to get away with the graphite pivot block for almost a year but then I decided to get it. It made the rear end a lot stronger IMO and didn't weigh that much more. Well worth it IMO as well as the Ti. turbuckles. A few very simple mods can make it more durable as well. The front bulkhead/kickplate come with 1/2 long screws. Buy 4 3/4 length screws instead. I have stripped the holes out of two of them with the 1/2 long screws. I put the 3/4 length ones in and have not had a problem since.(if you put front ones in the will poke through the top of the bulkhead a little bit. I've seen people also use 1" long screws and put a nut on the top. I really never have had major durability issues but those three mods increase the strength a lot IMO.

Animeboy123- Is the left tire hard to turn when holding the right tire? Or is the left tire hard to turn when holding the spur gear and right tire. You should hold your spur gear and your left tire. Then try and turn your right tire forward. You should see your slipper plates turn. If they do then your diff is not to loose. If they don't turn then you need to tighten your diff. If you hold just the right or left tire and the opposite tire it shouldn't be difficult to turn.

smacked- I saw your post in the Nitro forum. The SG shaft won't work on the XXX-NT. You could buy a new crankshaft(if you really want the NT) but if you don't really care(it appeared that way in your post) then you could put it in a different vehicle. You will need to get a starter box though since it is a bump start engine.

LoSick- You have not had any problems mixing it yourself? Anything different I should know about doing it? Approx. how much do you make a gallon for? Thanks

cave- I might not end up going racing this week after all. I might stay home and see if I can get myself an M8 and pick up some Nitro. hehe

[losixxx213]

I just got a xxxnt sport today, my first nitro ever(I race electric cars). I got all the support euipment and everything, but for some reason I can't get it to start, any ideas?

[LoSick]

Losixxx213, CHECK glow plug, igniter, and hsn, if flooded loose the plug and pull the cord a few times. there´s an article in rcnitro.com where they explain how to start a rtr car. check it!
got speed, check this, you can play with the ratio of castor to synthetic, I run always with 50/50, more power and cooler engine!
OIL OUNCES NITRO SINT-CASTOR NITROIL SUPER BENOL
12% 15,36 Oz. 5% 50 / 50 8 7,5 6
12% 15,36 Oz. 10% 50 / 50 16 5,5 6,5
12% 15,36 Oz. 15% 50 / 50 24 3 7
12% 15,36 Oz. 20% 50 / 50 32 1 7,5
12% 15,36 Oz. 25% 58 / 42 40 0 6,5
The cost of the gallon depends on how much you pay for klotz and the methanol. nitroil is 78 percent nitro, 22 synthetic, super techniplate is 80 percent synthetic and 20 percent castor, and benol is 100 percent pure castor. I hope it helps you!

[LoSick]

the chart above, means
oil content, total ounces in a gallon, percentage of nitro, ratio synthetic castor, ounces of nitroil, ounces of super techniplate, and ounces of benol. I use super tecniplate to lower the total cost but if you want to you could use the original techniplate which is pure synthetic and then, you´ll have to add more benol (castor) to compensate.
my personal choice then,
32 ounces of nitroil, 1 of super techniplate and 7.5 of benol, give it a try, and remember not all engines are equal, I use it on the os 15 cvr, but if you try at a picco or any italian, you could even lower the percentage of oil, just stay on the rich side.

[cave]

GS FireBird Race way is the only place that I now that sells Nitro. I cant remeber how many grades there are but its costly. You can pick up a ratio cup at any dirt bike place. Screwy lewies is close to you but any place that sells bike ussually has one.

LoSick how much you pay for Nitro? You ever try klotz technoplate? rather than Benol Castor Oil?

MikeWz what up wit your Mugen? My shaft is separate from my crank. Did you port too much off the flat spot on the crank shaft. Wouldnt this change the flow of fuel bro? I think this what causes vacuum right. (along with the engines back presure) Hey I had a simalar problem. My brand new fuel tank had a hairline crack in it at the bottom towards the front so I couldnt see the leak. I took the tank off and did a presure test and be-hold there was the culpret. I replaced the tank and my Drake was back in motion. I had this problem for a couple of weeks before I found it.

cave

[LoSick]

I had to prepare my own fuel because my shop ran out of fuel, a pint of nitroil costs less than 10 dollars. So just in nitro you´ll pay around 20 bucks for a 20 percent nitro. I have never used only techniplate, I have used at least super tecnniplate which has benol on it. but hey. it´s your call, All my mixes have at least a third of castor, no matter the percentage of oil or nitro. and so far the engine idles fine, runs cool and the most important thing is that the bearings are in good shape. which is the most common problem associated with not using good methanol even if you use after run oil and fuel. klotzlube.com has all the information

[losixxx213]

I done all that stuff, I'm going to my local hobby shop to see if they can help me.

[Strike 4]

Here are some pics of my finished Losi XXX-NT...

Picture Number 1 (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=20088)

Picture Number 2 (http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=20089)

[Saboteur]

Links dont work. :(

[Got Speed]

Replace the xxxxxx with rc pics(without the space).

LoSick- What is nitroil? From what I'm seeing looking around is this(don't know if I will use this mixture or not yet but I know I won't have more than 12% oil):

$25 for a gallon of nitro(makes 5 gallons of 20% fuel)
$25 for a gallon of Klotz synthetic(makes 16 gallons of 6% klotz or 20 gallons of 5% klotz)
$25 for a gallon of castor oil(makes 16 gallons of 6% or 20 gallons of 5%)
$5 for a gallon of methanol(makes 1.32 gallons)

Total= $80

To make one gallon

Nitro approx. $5(20%)
Klotz approx $2(6%)
Castor approx $2(6%)
Methanol approx $4(68%)

Total $13. If I can get everything for that price then I should be able to make a gallon of 20% nitro, 12% oil fuel.

Am I not getting something here or is this about right?
thanks

[LoSick]

Got Speed, nitroil is the brand name from klotz to its nitro. your chart is perfect. if using pure nitro! IF you use nitroil remember that it is not pure nitro, has a 22 percent of synthetic oil. so if considering your chart, a gallon of nitroil will make 4 gallons of fuel, and on each gallon you have 7 ounces of synthetic from the nitroil, you´ll need just a .68 ounce of additional oil to complete the 6 percent of synthetic.
I made a chart in excel with oil ratios from 12 to 20 percent, 5 to 30 nitro, and ratios of synthetic/castor, you can even put the price you pay for your nitro, oil and methanol and you have the exact total cost.
anyone interested email me.

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
savage, you can use an inexpensive servo for throttle, especially in a 1/10th truck. I use a 737 and in a pich have even had good luck from a standard JR or futaba 3003 servo.......The steering servo is where it's more important to spend the extra dough. Do you have ANY tires for it at all?........Jim
how about Hitec's HS-625MG-Hi-Speedt MG???

[Strike 4]

GS- I tried the thing with the 3/4 locking nut as oposed to the 1/2 and it won't go in all the way through the rear part?

[MikeWz]

Jim-It's not the Mugen I'm using. I switched back to the Mach as I still don't have a shaft for the MT. My stupid Hardware store doesn't have metric bolts so I can't get a 5mm bolt.
I'm not sure if it's the fuel tank or not. The only time the fuel doesn't go into the carb is when the exhaust line is disconnected from the pipe. I can run it without that but for only about a half a tank cause after that you need the pressure from the exhaust

What kind of sealant do you guys use?

[winning edge designs]

Man, making your own fuel looks like it would give me a headache. All that thought, preperation and ordering of special materials? Wouldn't it be easier to buy fuel for $8 or $9 more per gallon and spend all that time getting the truck in great shape, or practicing?.I just run Maxy's Fuel!.........Sorry, not trying to rain on anyones parade, just my thoughts.

Mike, it sounds then like your running too lean on the needles(mostly hsn). The engine should draw enough fuel to run the entire tank out, even with the pressure line, if it's adjusted to run without the pressure line connected. Try opening your high needle a 1/2 turn and retesting it with no pressure line. If it won't run that way the engine most likely is tired(low compression) or has a bearing or crankcase/carb seal leaking. The engine draws a fairly good vaccum and will draw the fuel on it's own, the pressure line helps keep the feed/flow a little more consistent. Some fuel mileage kings i've raced with don't use a pressure line at all.....:), Jim

[MikeWz]

Jim-what am I using to seal the leak? I'm pretty sure that's the problem

[winning edge designs]

Mike, I like Ultra Black silicone sealer. Available at auto parts stores, expensive but very good stuff.......You really shouldn't need any if the seals are in ghood shape though, other then for insurance. Use it around the back plate and carb neck, mostly in case a screw loosens up, etc. But if a sealed bearing is leaking it will need replacement to fix it. They aren't 100% sealed, but a worn seal, or bearing can make carb setting very inconsistant...Jim

[LoSick]

winning edge designs, you´re right, does not come any easier than paying more and forget mixing your fuel. it is just an alternative in price and products to consider. right!
MikeWz, check the oring in the needles, it might have some debris within. try nitro boost, heard that it´s like having and abc on your engine.

[Saboteur]

Anyone using Picco engines in their NT? For the price, I think they are pretty good and powerful for a side exhaust engine, which is why I want one. Also, it will fit in both my NT and NEO.

[winning edge designs]

I hear ya Losick, I was mostly hoping it was a bigger savings, doing it all myself. If it was like $6-8 a gallon, that would be a different story!.......Of course i'm considering the time rounding up chemicals, trips to suppliers, etc and the fact that I already run 3 businesses and try to race in between, LOL...Time vs money I suppose, but I have neither....:), Jim

[cave]

Making your own fuel wouldnt be easy at first. I think Got Speed is looking for cost effectiveness. 20 to 30 bucks for 1 gallon of fuel is a bit high for some of our younger driver/racers. Its not that big of a deal once you figure out your formula. Methanol is tough to work with. Evaporation , heat, storage are all contributing factors. If you think about it the hobbie shops that you buy fuel at store the same stuff you could make. Once you have the measures rite your saving bux. 1 quart of klots is around 8 bucks and this treats 10 gallons of race gas. 5 gallons of Methanol. 4 bucks a gallon or less for Race grade Methanol.
(I used to buy it in 55 gallon drums @ 2 bux a gallon) The Nitro deal Im not sure as I havnt drag my boat this year so I dont how much it would cost away from a drag strip or speed shop. I know that stuff labeled as Nitro in a can is a tiny % of what you would get from the track. i mix fuel for my quads every weekend. Its not that tuff. Gs Im going riding this morn. Dont know if I will make it.
I do think even with the hazardest shipping cost we get a bit ripped off for fuel. After reading these last few post i started thinking about what really goes into our race fuels. You would think that these companies would get a cost break for buying in quantity.

For now Ill just buy it at 23 bux a gallon.

cave

[LoSick]

Saboteur, tower has a picco 15 at sales price, $110, round side exhaust, you´ll just need the exhaust which is about 10 more.
Finally I found the engine mount for the sirio 15, for the xxx nt, is the adjustable from the ofna ld3´s. I´m already starting to think what it´s like to have 1.7 hp on the nt, with 20t bell and rages to rip off the asphalt.

[Strike 4]

Please tell me these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3165984545&category=34063&rd=1) will work on my NT?

[ross]

Originally posted by Strike 4
Please tell me these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3165984545&category=34063&rd=1) will work on my NT?

Those are buggy wheels designed to be used on the xxx. So, no they wont work. Sorry

[w8liftr]

I just bought a xxx-nt with a trinity picco .12 on it. The truck is used and the pull start is broken. Could anyone recommend a starter box I should get. I don't care to replace the pull start. Thanks!

[Animeboy123]

well i finished the break in early today and to my surprise it wasnt to hard, i was running it rich but not to rich on both the hi and low speed settings. it seemed like it was running a little slugish but i think it was to rich, is this right?? also the temp i was getting was around 150 and i was running with the body off in my front coldasack by my house and it was around 78 outside, is this normal??

also how should i leave the idle setting?? so it just idles and doesnt move forward or so it moves forward??

Also what sould i look for in a good tuned engine while running it??

Thanks everyone and so u all know i am a noob in Nitro :( :D

[losixxx213]

I'ma newbie to nitro too, I just got the sport artr for x-mas and broke the connecting rod during break-in, no biggie b/c my lhs sent the engine back b/c it's under warranty and so I wouldn't have to pay for anything.

[winning edge designs]

animeboy123, I set my idle a little high, for reliable idle and less stalling, but not so high that the truck creeps forward. If it trys to roll, it's too high and should be set lower.

Losixxx213, the broken rod is usually a result of forcing the engine to turn during hydro-lock. This happens during a too rich mixture and flooding engine, forced to turn by the starter box, or pullcord. In the event the engine gets hard to turn after repairs, loosen the glow plug and give it a few tugs before tightening it and starting again. When an engine floods this badly I turn the high needle in a 1/2 turn, clear the engine by removing the plug, turning the truck over and rolling the crank to open the ports and help clear the crankcase, cylinder, etc...........They retry. for temps I like 180-200 degrees during break-in, also heat cycling is good to do. That is run engine for 2 or 3 minutes, then allow to cool, 3 or 4 times. This settles parts into thier permanent shape before seating them in during break in afterwards............Hope this helps, Jim

[Got Speed]

Animeboy123- It sounds as if you are a bit rich to me. Everybody has their preference on break-in. But when it is 78 degrees outside I would try and run it no lower than 180 and no higher than 230 for the first few tanks. Every tank I lean it out a little bit. After a few minutes I shut it off and make sure to put the piston and BDC(bottom dead center). I let it cool to around 130 or so then go again. Leaning it a little at a time. When you lean it out do it in small increments. Try and get the temps up about 5 degrees every time you run it. You really have to go by sound, smoke, temp, and feel. If it is running cool but running great then don't keep leaning it out. If it is sluggish, low temps, etc. then keep leaning it out tank after tank.

[ross]

Originally posted by w8liftr
I just bought a xxx-nt with a trinity picco .12 on it. The truck is used and the pull start is broken. Could anyone recommend a starter box I should get. I don't care to replace the pull start. Thanks!

Your definatly going the right way getting a starter box. Get the Thunder Tiger/Associated starter box, its probaly the best one available. Dont get one of them cheap ones with the two motors on a belt drive, they dont have the power to turn over a good quality engine like the picco.

[Got Speed]

w8liftr- Like ross said get a single motor box. I had one of the dual motor boxes and it was junk. It almost cost as much as a good quality single motor though. I bought the ofna 1/8 pink box after seeing how bad the dual motor was.

[rhcsavage21]

anyone here own a fantom???????????
i plan on getting one and want tot talk about it.

[dkj-M3]

i drove a factory Fanton drivers engine & it was ballistic & easy to tune altho he did all the work on it himself. Ihave another friend who runs one stock & said it runs good & is reliable. He let me use it after my wasp took a dump. I'll never buy another wasp again.

By the way my new Drake Novarossi came today, I'll let you guys know how it runs. If it's anything like my RS12 & the old CX12, I will like it.

[ross]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
By the way my new Drake Novarossi came today, I'll let you guys know how it runs. If it's anything like my RS12 & the old CX12, I will like it.

Excellent! Definatly let us know how it goes.

[speedydave]

After being in denial about the whole MST1 parts availability thing for a while, then experiencing it first-hand and realizing just how important parts support is, I'm selling the Mugen truck, and buying a Drake. Hopups I'm planning on buying are the Trinity rear pivot block(2*?), front pivot block/arm carrier thingy, Trinity shock collars(easier to adjust), ti ball studs, and blue ball cups(supposed to be the strongest ball cups of all of the Losi's). Did I miss anything? I'll probably get the Trinity aluminum rear uprights, but I don't have the cash for it all right now, and the rear uprights are pretty durable stock. Any tips, especially with the diff? I've heard of people replacing the cone washers with a spring, so little things like that(just general info) would be great. This will be my first new Losi(only other Losi I owned was my first car..a used JrXT), so it should be interesting. Thanks!

I'm actually serious about buying the truck this time...I swear!

[dkj-M3]

front pivot block/arm carrier thingy, use the stock plastic part. i had the alumi & it had warped /bent all up. I had a guy make me a titanium one i've been running for a year. much better. I might have a steel one made just for more weight on the front end.

[ross]

speedydave,
They seem like good upgrades however Ive not had trouble with the stock ball studs or rear hubs yet and Ive not heard about the blue ball cups been stronger than the black ones. A little tip on the diff, put 10 concave washers in instead of 12 like it tells you to, it makes for a more reliable diff. Another little thing is to replace the metal exhaust gasket on the drake with a standard fibre one.

[speedydave]

The Drake uses a metal gasket stock? Trippy. Forgot to mention, I'll be using the MT12 from my MST1 in the Drake, but thanks for the tip! My next engine will probably be a side exhaust, anyway. :) The MST1 used a shorter crank insert than standard, and I can't find my standard one...I should be able to use the short crank, right? Theoretically, as long as I get some of it in, and use loctite...Or, is there somewhere where I could order a crank insert? Thanks!

[winning edge designs]

dkj, I had a similar experience, i'm running a O.S. .12 TR now, :).

For ballcups, the tuffest set-up is the Proline Maxx ballcups with Lunsford super poopy(or duty)turnbuckles, LOL. Up front they don't fit well, but you could try and scrape up some early grey Losi ballcups for that, those were the strongest they ever made, but they changed them to stop the bending!........:/.

I wonder why nobody finds it a requirement to make a 1/10th truck as tuff as a 1/8th buggy, or even close? Btw, this applies to ALL brands, since i've seen them all pop off ballcups and break them, etc..........hhhhmmmmm, Jim

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by speedydave


I'm actually serious about buying the truck this time...I swear!

Hehehe. :D ;)

[cave]

Jim i've gone as far as E-mailing Losi and Associated about there 1/10 scale ST's and they both say that they apply racers input into there products. Lighter faster, Stronger heavier and less responcive. I can agree with most here that the ball studs suck. At least the ones on the lower inner rear tower I have broke Titanium, Steal and the stock ball studs. Its not just me either. Others at SRS have had the same problem. I finally did what every one else has done. i replaced my Losi ball studs & cups with the Traxxas captured ball ends. Even with my drivin those captured ball deals have held up. Why wont they make a beefier A arm?. I must say that The Associated aftermaket RPM arms are massive and seam to be durable. May the next generatin Losi ST will have this as an option. By the way I never got a responce from either companies on how long there factory sponcered racers go with stock components. If I got free titanium ball studs every race I too would never break them. Ok Ok so maybe I would .

Those 8th scales are bruttaly stong.

cave

[Canucksk]

I want to drop a new OS .12 pull start engine in my XXXNT to replace my .12 spd.

Can someone post a link at towerhobbies and recommendations on what OS pull start I need to buy ?

Thank's

[Strike 4]

I don't think they have the .12 CV-R, the only 2 left would be the CV and maybe TR. However, if you can deal with the 15 then CV-R is a great option...

[Canucksk]

Would this work fine in the XXXNT ?

O.S. .12 CV-RX w/10ER Rotary Carb

LINK at Tower Hobbies (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXA44&P=7)

:)

[Animeboy123]

GotSpeed- so basicly u think i should lean it out little by little right? When i was running it today i was leaning it out and it didnt seem to be getting to the temp u said. My glow plug burnt out on me so i need to get some more, so i will post back after i can run it again.

[Got Speed]

Animeboy123- Yes, but the temps arn't the only thing you go for. On an 80 degree day your engine should not be running 150. You shouldn't let it get that cool. If it runs too cool the engine will not expand properly and will cause it to wear much faster. With it tuned right you should be able to see a visible trail of smoke coming from the exhuast when you hit the throttle. They will have certain symptoms when they are too lean or rich. If it chokes when you nail full throttle then your HSN is too lean. If it bogs down you are too rich. If it runs great but loads up alot at idle and dosn't have quite the punch at the bottom end then you LSN is too rich. etc, etc, etc. You have to go by a lot of different things to get it tuned just right. If you you are sure you engine is not too rich but it still runs at 150. I would 1- check your temp gun against somebody elses to make sure yours isn't wrong. 2- If the temp gun is fine then wrap aluminum tape around the bottom cooling fins to get the temp up a little. Breaking an engine in like this can be much trickier though. At 80 degrees outside though this should not be necessary. Unless it is less than around 50 degrees you should not have to artifically keep your engine warmed up. Your glow plug most likely burned out because it was too rich. Do you have lots of smoke or raw fuel coming from the exhuast? I usually run my engines close to an ideal tune during break-in.

[LoSick]

Canucksk, your choice will work fine, but recoil robs you power, if I were you, I´d get the picco 15 ($107), the round side header from hpi ($11), the airplane starter with car adapter ($24), it all adds up to $150, but right now for $149, you´ll get $20 off from tower, so basically you´ll have for $15 more italian performance, more power, and the starter which you can even use with any other engine. Of course, Os are also great engines! for 10 more, get the 15cvrx, which is $125 right now at tower. but hey that´s my opinion.

[rhcsavage21]

what is a good rear exaust pipe for my nt??? i will be geting a fantom .12 rear exaust and need a really good pipe. i was leaning twords a dynamite one-piece pipe. but i don't know. please help me!!!!!

[LoSick]

rhcsavage21, got the same dilemma, went for the fantom vs the drake pipe, fantom won! still waiting for it. for the header, get the new one from losi, designed to give clearance along the body and with high performance engines on mind, such as your fantom!

[winning edge designs]

Cave, All the trucks are decent in strength, but with just two or three ounces more weight could be WAY more durable. I think a 3lb, 15 oz truck that stays running the whole 45 minutes will be much faster then a 3lb, 12 oz truck that breaks something simple at the 20 minute mark, right?

TeamLosi makes a killer header that fits a rear exhaust well. We (Jconcepts)had the Triton XXXT and GT bodies to clear the early on-road headers, but since alot of manufacturers are making better headers, we'll have a new version of the Triton coming out before too much longer, a bit narrower and more similar from side to side.....check out jconcepts dot net, in the near future.

Losick, speaking of wieght, when you get the fantom pipe compare it to the drake pipe in weight if possible. The early pipes were about twice as heavy as the drake, not sure if they are still that heavy?

Coulda used that weight for beefier ballcups and shock ends, LOL.......:), Jim

[Animeboy123]

GotSpeed- I found out my glow ignitier batts were dead after i tested a new plug on it so it wasnt the original plug like i thought. No i dont really have lots of raw fuel coming out but there is a little, also there is a good amout of smoke coming out when i throttle but it dies down after.

Also when i ran it today i forgot to mention that when i first started it my idle was off and the engine was getting up to 250, why is this?? i turned the idle down to the point that it didnt creep foward and so that it wouldnt stall on me.

Tomarrow i am going to run my car and lean the HSN and the LSN every few minutes till i get to the 190 220 range. Should i run the car longer like 5 minutes before i adjust the settings

thanks :D

[speedydave]

Well, it's official. I just completed my order from Stormer, should have the truck (hopefully) by the end of the week...Ordered the Drake, blue Losi ball cups, Losi RE manifold(for my MT12), Trinity rear pivot block, Trinity shock collars, and 1 package of 4 RRP Ti ball studs. Can't freakin' wait! :D

[cave]

w.e.d. I agree. Jim is Jconcepts one of the 3 companies your involved in?

Animeboy123 Did you check to see if everything is tight on the motor? If your cooling head is loose it will run lean. Same is true if the glow plug washer is missing or loose. 250° is scarry on the Mach.

speedydave, Welcome to the Losi side. Looks like your doing it right straight out of the box! I also like the MIP clutch shoes with the losi sping.

GS I'll try to make out on Saturday if I dont have to work. Racing starts at 2pm. Dont think I can make in time to race if I work.

cave

[winning edge designs]

Cave, that's correct, I run my Auto repair business, with a partner, Team Motorsports, inc., also my Airbrushing business, Winning Edge Designs, as well as working with Jason Ruona at Jconcepts on R/C bodies, as well as other products coming out soon.......Did I mention I have over 200 positive feedbacks on E bay and also dabble in the used car market in my spare time, LOL..........No wonder i'm always tired, :), Jim

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by winning edge designs


TeamLosi makes a killer header that fits a rear exhaust well. We (Jconcepts)had the Triton XXXT and GT bodies to clear the early on-road headers, but since alot of manufacturers are making better headers, we'll have a new version of the Triton coming out before too much longer, a bit narrower and more similar from side to side.....check out jconcepts dot net, in the near future.



were can i find this???? is there a part number????

[losiguy1090]

if your looking for the losi header it can be found on horizon. and if your looking for his header he said its not out yet.;)

[dkj-M3]

The Drake Noavarossi is a smooth beast. It has a lot of power, but smooth & it just keeps on pulling.:D :D :D Pulls the front-end up(in the loose stuff), Which usually doesn't happen with my slipper set-up. Don't let that 1hp rating fool you. Started right up on the 1st bump, & idles very nice(just what i expect from the novas) The only thing about all novas are the rotary carbs. You have to take the rubber boot off & throw some lube in there, cause they stick & don't go all the way back to idle. But I fixed it.

[Strike 4]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
The Drake Noavarossi is a smooth beast. It has a lot of power, but smooth & it just keeps on pulling.:D :D :D Pulls the front-end up(in the loose stuff), Which usually doesn't happen with my slipper set-up. Don't let that 1hp rating fool you. Started right up on the 1st bump, & idles very nice(just what i expect from the novas) The only thing about all novas are the rotary carbs. You have to take the rubber boot off & throw some lube in there, cause they stick & don't go all the way back to idle. But I fixed it.

Sweet, however, it sounds no different from my CX12...:(

[winning edge designs]

It really isn't any different, since Novarossi and RB are made mostly from the same parts, although each uses thier own specific port timing, etc...........:), Jim

[LoSick]

dkj-M3, it should be a beast. it´s the least you can expect from that tag price.
winning edge designs, the fantom should be heavier for sure, since it´s made of steel vs alum of the drake. been looking for stiffier shock ends specially of neon yellow, you know any?

speedydave, seems your are putting a winner altogether, I´d get the mip flywhell and hb alum shoes right away

[speedydave]

LoSick-why MIP flywheel and aluminum clutch shoes? I've never run alum. shoes in a truck before...seems like it'd be way too snappy(if it made the truck drive anything like my MBX5).

Alright..I need to come up with a paint scheme other than my usual, boring metallic green->silver fade. I'm not that great with painting, and all I've got are cans, but I think Hobby Town has some of those stickers that go inside the body...dunno, I'll have to go look again. I've got(at home) indy silver, metallic green, a pretty dark blue(might be "bold blue" or something like that), a bright red, and a golden yellow(don't ask). All of them are Pactra cans. Anyone? I think I need to learn how to paint, and buy an airbrush...:(

[cave]

speedydave, w.e.d. paints bodies:D I've seen them here on this site.

oh yea, happy new year everyone.

cave

[winning edge designs]

Losick, ya, I remember testing all the pipes, steel, aluminum, etc. in prototype form. They work well, but I couldn't get past how heavy they were, hanging off the side of my truck?

Cave, thanks for letting him in on my little secret, LOL.

Speedy dave, sounds like your into doing it yourself. If you do, it only takes a few hours and about $20-25 in materials, plus an airbrush. Get yourself a Badger 150 ($60-80)or similar airbrush and some bottles of whatever colors you dig. Use the scrap material from your body to try out your airbrush. That's how I learned about 18 years ago.......Or, check out jconcepts dot net. We also have our own line of bodies coming out soon, for everything from the XXXNT, to the GT, MBX5, 7.5, Sedans, Monster trucks, etc.......all on the way.....:), Jim

[Got Speed]

Animeboy123- Do you mean 150 instead of 250? 250 is too high for that engine during break-in IMO. If it was 250 richen it up. If not then lean it out. You shouldn't ever get raw fuel coming out of your exhuast even during break-in. That is way too rich. Keep leaning it out. As I said there is no set temperature. You have to go by the smoke coming from the pipe, the temp, performance, how it sounds, and how much fuel it uses. But you should keep it within a temperature range. I don't let my engines go lower than 190. If the engine temp is too low then it won't expand right and will cause it to wear much faster. Like I said for that engine I would try and keep it 190-220 during break-in. Maybe a bit warmer on the last few tanks depending on how it feels.

cave- Do you know what the new layout is going to look like? Do you know if Tony will be there? You said the races start at 2pm?

[Strike 4]

I always run about 210 to break in my engines.

What do you guys think of the Corllari engines? I was looking at this (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=COLXS12PSR) one to replace my CX12 when it dies, so how does it compare to the CX12?

Thanks in advance, Strike 4

[Got Speed]

Strike 4- I have never owned a Collari but from the things I've seen and heard they are just a bit above the Novarossi and RB. I almost got one a while back but they are quite a bit more expensive than the Novarossi or RB for not much of a performance gain.

[RCRACER2471]

Hey guys I have an odd question. Im in need of a new engine. But the question im dealing with is that it say it will only fit .12 engines. I have the original kit. Is it possible to mount a bigger engine or do they really mean that I can only use a .12?

Any help would be great....

[Animeboy123]

ok thanks got speed, and yes it was getting to 250 then i set the idle down and shut off the car and let it cool down.

Tomorrow i am going to try to lean it out, i havent been having a good week with RC. My enginge keeps on dieing when i take off the glow igniter (weird) and when i try to throttle the car when the radio trim is at around 10 or so it will run but sluggish, but when i put the trim down at 1 or 0 and i try to throttle it just quits on me. I think it was b/c of my idle setting and i was told to put the idle so when i apply brakes the carb is open about 1 mm or so, is this right??

[Saboteur]

Got an MT12 yesterday. Weeeeeeeeeee! :-D

Rcracer- You want something bigger than a .15 even? I'd atleast check a powerful .15 engine. Even most .12s are enough for a 2wd stadium truck.

[speedydave]

rcracer-you can fit almost any small block .12-.15 in the XXXNT. What engine did you have in mind?

animeboy-Does it die right after you take the ignitor off? Usually, if it dies right after you take the ignitor off, and feels like it's running a little rich/sluggish, the plug is dead. Try replacing the plug and see if that helps.

Bertie-Nice! Which version did you get(big head? slide/rotary carb?)? The MT12 is a killer truck engine, and it's pretty damn easy to tune, too.

[MikeWz]

Sabs-Sweet deal on the MT. Good choice. You'lll love it.

RCRACER-Man, if you wanna drop something other than a .12 or .15 you're insane. Maybe see if you can drop the trx 2.5 in there but that's about as far as you should go. Even that's pushing it.

[Got Speed]

RCRACER2471- Other engines will fit. A good .12 is plenty of power though. But most .15s will fit too. If you were thinking of an .18 the Sirio .18 should fit since it has the same mounting dimensions of a .15. You just have to make sure. Some engines can be a pain to get to some of the needles depending on how the carb is set up too. If you put a Sirio .18 in it though it would be undriveable.

Animeboy123- I would richen it to where it was before then slowly lean it a little at a time. If it is stalls when you take the ignitor off then it is either way too rich or you should replace your plug. Running real rich can ruin plugs pretty quickly too. Once it is broken-in another way to tell if it tuned right is by the glow plugs. The plug shouldn't be distorted or black. If so it is way too lean. If it is still shiny like new then you are running rich(sometimes they can turn yellow if you run them rich with a high castor fuel though). If the fillament is dull but not distorted you have been running it at ideal or nearly ideal tune. Most of the time you should get a couple months of running on a plug before it goes bad. Some of them will burn out quicker than others but as a general rule an properly tuned engine won't burn glow plugs up very often.

Saboteur- Which Mugen did you get? You will like it. Powerful yet pretty easy to tune.

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by MikeWz
RCRACER-Man, if you wanna drop something other than a .12 or .15 you're insane. Maybe see if you can drop the trx 2.5 in there but that's about as far as you should go. Even that's pushing it.

You think Id be that crazy to put a .21 or even a .18 Id burn out the diff in no time. Im just looking for more power out of my truck but I dont want it to be uncontrollable either. Im thinking of moving up to a .15 but then it wouldnt make it race legal. Im looking for more speed than torque. My O.S. already has plenty of it. Any suggestions?

[w8liftr]

I'm having problems getting my picco .12 running. I bought the truck used and I set the needles back to factory settings from Trinity's website. it spits fuel out of the exhaust when it does start then revs up and dies. Its too rich right? Do I lean out the high or low end first, or together? Also I think it may be idled to high, where is a good starting point for the screw if I tighten it all the way? One more thing, Where is the best place to buy parts on the net? I want to rebuild the engine so it is like new. I'm new to nitro so thanks in advance for your help!

[MikeWz]

Start leaning out with the high speed needle first. If you do the LSN first you'll wind up having to change it when the HSN is done anyway so it defeats the purpose. The idel screw should be set so that the carb is open about 1mm.

[w8liftr]

Thanks! I'll try that.

[Saboteur]

Speedy,Mike, Got Speed- I got the Mugen MT12 with standard head, slide carb and SG crankshaft. I know I needed standard but for $100 bux I couldnt pass it off. I also got a THS exhaust system for $50. For now its going into my sedan, but I'll have my LHS order a standard crank so I can use it in my truck. Too bad I didnt have the patience or time to wait to get a standard crank so I could have installed it on the centax. Just need a new flywheel and clutch nut to keep using it anyway. :) When I return to school, I'll let the administrator know, we may not have any indoor elec racing on weekends due to the fact some kids may not be able to make it or are busy then, and we'll just wait for some decent weather to run outdoors afterschool. Weather seems to be clearing up a bit. A good 38-50 degrees. I know they all prefer nitro anyway. My NT and Sedan will be awaiting the competition. Gonna practice driving around a bit to get a head start. Just need a starter box now. :cool:

[LoSick]

w8liftr, do as Mike said, but ask the former owner the fuel he used. Won´t believe the difference between fuesl. specially when readjusting the needles.
RCRACER2471. I´m thinking of putting the sirio 15 from my touring to see how it rips on the nt. 1.5 at 26k rpms and 70oz. torque, maybe with the rrp diff?
Anyone knows if the sway bar set (front and rear from losi or trinity) for the xxt fit the nt?

[w8liftr]

he was only using odonnel 10%, I'm using trinity monster 20%. Thanks! Where is a good place to find parts for the picco engine and the truck?

[LoSick]

at shopatron.com you´ll find everything for your picco, for the truck you can find the dealers list from the team losi site or if you want to, at stormer hobbies. ehobbies or horizon hobbies.
Usually no more than 1 turn around factory defaults should be get your engine running on. Ask the former owner

[w8liftr]

Thanks!

[Got Speed]

cave- I went racing last night. I did alright. That Keith Jr. kid stole position from me by jumping the track. Scott didn't catch it though. :mad: The weather to begin with was getting cold. I had to put a peice of duct tape over my air hole in the body because my engine was running too cold. The new track is awesome. It looks like a ton of fun. I know I like it more than the last one. Looks like as much fun as the cactus track. Are you going to be there on the 17th?

Saboteur- Cool. You'll like it.

RCRACER2471- If you had your diff adjusted right you shouldn't burn it up just because of the power. If your sitting there spinning in circles on power any engine will roast any ball diff that way. But you won't roast it because of the power.

[Got Speed]

cave- I went racing last night. I did alright. That Keith Jr. kid stole position from me by jumping the track. Scott didn't catch it though. :mad: The weather to begin with was getting cold. I had to put a peice of duct tape over my air hole in the body because my engine was running too cold. The new track is awesome. It looks like a ton of fun. I know I like it more than the last one. Looks like as much fun as the cactus track. Are you going to be there on the 17th?

Saboteur- Cool. You'll like it.

RCRACER2471- If you had your diff adjusted right you shouldn't burn it up just because of the power. If your sitting there spinning in circles on power any engine will roast any ball diff that way. But you won't roast it because of the power.

[cave]

Thats sucks GS. He was pretty frustraighted the last time I raced. He got bumped into the A main when the computer said I was suposed to be there. Locals only BS I guess. Oh well. Its not worth raggin about. I see alot of people doing that. I caught this guy who tried to do it in my Marshal position. I grabbed the truck and put it back in the right lane. He tried it again and was pissed off when the race was over and confronted me about it. I told him if he wants to cheat do it in his buddies area. He was the same guy that was hackin you in the State races. I'll try to be there the 17th I may have to work.

cave

[winning edge designs]

Ouch guys, I always wonder when I see stuff like that, how can a guy go home feeling good about his finishing position when he knows how he got it?...............hmmmm, Jim

[tr918]

I finally got a chance to run my Drake for the first time. I only have one thing to say.... Awesome!

Cave- The truck does already have the Trinity rear pivot block and the rear hub carriers. You are right Nitro is addicting.

Because of the weather I have had a chance to drive the truck for about three days out of two weeks (snow + rain mixed)

On the third day of running the engine revved and the truck went nowhere. It turned out to be the crankshaft nut came loose and the shaft was spinning but not the flywheel and clutch. Upon inspection all the parts were still in good shape. I reassembled everything. But I have one question. Is there a way to prevent this from happening? Or should I inspect and tighten the nut after every run?

Thanks - TR

[ross]

tr918,
You can use thread lock on the clutch nut to stop it from coming loose. A piston locking tool is also handy so you can really tighten it down, if you havent got one they are well worth it only cheap too.

[Casper]

tr918-- Use a lot of locktite. I just use a rag and some channel lock pliers to hold on to the fly wheel and turn about as hard as I can on the clutch nut with a good 3/32 tool. Do not use a ball end wrench for this activity though as it is hard to make sure you are on the flats of the clutch nut while turning. It is easier with normal wrench. Once on tight with some lock tite you should not have an issue with this again. I almost could not get the nut off again when I needed to rebuild the engine the last time I put one on!:)

[Got Speed]

cave- I was going to get some pics of the new track but never did. This track looks like so much fun. About as many jumps but they are bigger.

tr918- Just use loc-tite. And like WED said make sure you use a good allen tool for the clutch nut. If I were you I would replace the collet. My clutch nut came off once and I didn't notice anything wrong with the collet. So I didn't replace anything. A few weeks later the engine did exactly as you described but the clutch nut was locked down. The flywheel just dug a groove in the collet. I had to turn the clutch nut so hard I was afraid I would bend the con rod(since I had to use a piston locking tool in the situation). Usually they are only a buck or two. It would be a good idea to replace it.

[Tim'sLosi]

Hi, '
Does the AD NT come with the lightened top shaft installed? I just bought a roller and I need to determine what hop-ups I want to transfer from my RTR. Is the trans the same as the RTR?
Thanks! TT

[Casper]

The AD does NOT come with the alum top shaft. The diffs are a little different. The RTR comes with a spring for the trust where the AD uses coned washers. I think the material they use for the plastic gears might be a little different. I think the RTR gears are black while the AD use natural colored compound gear and a white diff gear although these are identical gears. Nothing earth shaking!

[Animeboy123]

can anyone help me?

my enguine doesnt want to start for me on my, the glow plug is good and the igniter is charged. I had it running a few days ago and it was running good but now it doesnt want to start for me, it is 63 degrees outside also ( if that helps any) and also when i was trying to start it the car could roll preety easily.

[winning edge designs]

Gotspeed, Casper answered that one, even though i'd have put almost the Exact same response, :).

I even noticed how he left out the use a con rod bender...opps, I mean piston locking tool. Be very careful with those thing guys. It's easy to install the parts fairly snug by hand, then use pliers to hold the flywheel. I'd much rather score up the flywheel a little, rather then bend a rod, or piston, which I have come across.......Jim

[Animeboy123]

Also it was in the 70's last time i drove it (saturday)

[winning edge designs]

are you using a pullstart, or starter box? Also, what engine is it? It my just have fuel that jelled in the lines if it wasn't ran until empty last time?................Jim

[Animeboy123]

its the mach 15 thats in the RTR, i never ran the car cry b/c i couldnt restart the engine b/c of my glow igniter batt went dead on me. Also I can see the fuel go into the carb when i am primming the engine

[tpirocz]

where can i get a new set of screws and such for my nxt. im mainly looking for the one on the under side of the chassis. do you think i could just go to lowes and get something that would be close?

[Casper]

Losi sells the screws. You can get them through horizon or if you know the size you can go to some place like www.fastener-express.com

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by tpirocz
where can i get a new set of screws and such for my nxt. im mainly looking for the one on the under side of the chassis. do you think i could just go to lowes and get something that would be close?
Go to hexcrews.com and tell 'em Tim sent you! I bought a whole set of screws for under $10 there and they are really good quality too! Tim

[Got Speed]

winning edge designs- oops. sorry Casper. I hate using the piston locking tool myself. I only use it if I have to. I've known of several people denting their piston or bending their con rod by putting too much pressure on them.

tpirocz- Don't put screws in that arn't the right size. I've seen cars like that before. And people have trouble with them in certain areas. Or they end up stripping out the hole eventually or a whole list of things I've seen from people not using the correct size.

Animeboy123- Are you sure it is getting fuel? You are sure that the glow ignitor is charged?

[Animeboy123]

yes, i can see the fuel getting into the carb when i prime the engine. And yes the glow plug is good and igniter is charged.

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by Animeboy123
yes, i can see the fuel getting into the carb when i prime the engine. And yes the glow plug is good and igniter is charged.

We can assume you the engine has good compression so...

Check your pressure and fuel lines for leaks

Check to make sure there is at least a 1mm gap in the carb opening so the engine is getting air, you could also have someone hold the throttle open half way while you try to start it.

Check that your head, carb and backplate are all tight so there are no air leaks there.

Set your carb needles back to factory settings per the manual.

If all else is good then it should start, if not call Losi Tech Support...they are very good.

[tr918]

Thanks for the help guys. I did order a replacement collet - just incase. I had thought of using the loctite but wasn't sure about being able to remove the nut later. Loctite is definitely the way to go. Thanks agian. - TR

[tr918]

Animeboy123 - If you Run through the list that Tim's Losi gave you it should star. I had a similiar problem starting my OS CV-R. All I did was adjust the gap in the carb opening to make sure it was at the correct gap given in the engine manual. It still did not start. So I used the throttle trim adjustment on the transmitter and opened the throttle a little more and it fired right up. All it needed was just a little more air in the carb. Tim's losi is right - if all else fails call Losi tech support - They really are a big help. -TR

[tpirocz]

cool thanks ill check that out. i wasnt gunan just pick out screws randomly, i was gunan match the threds and all that, but for 10 bucks, i dont think i could beat that proce.

[winning edge designs]

another tip.....most of the time racers open the carb to far, to make up for a too rich lower end adjustment. That is, if your carb needs more then 1-1.5mm opening, it's likely too rich on the low end, or very rich up top.......Try leaning the low end down, then as the idle ends up too high you can lower a little at a time. Don't go overboard, just try and get close to the 1-1.5 opening. Otherwise you end up with a transition from low needle to high to soon and end up with en engine that's a handfull to drive, not to mention all the tuning nightmares, :)....Jim

[Animeboy123]

ok thanks everyone,

Lean the LSN before i try to start the engine or once i can get it running?? b/c i am sure it is to rich b/c i need to put my throttle trim up to about 10 or so when i can start it.

Edit: would the opening be 1.5 mm when brakes are applied??

[speedydave]

The gap shouldn't change between idle and brakes applied/full brake.

Got the truck today. :D I'm going to be building aaaaaaall day tomorrow after school...should be able to finish it, except for the body. :)

[losiguy1090]

nice:cool: post some pics when you finish. if your looking for a paint job, do flames or patriotric. they both look nice, or atleast i think so cuz thats how i painted both my xxxnt bods. one is patriotric and the other flames. theyre both very easy if you have precut masks and liquid masking.

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by Animeboy123
ok thanks everyone,

Lean the LSN before i try to start the engine or once i can get it running?? b/c i am sure it is to rich b/c i need to put my throttle trim up to about 10 or so when i can start it.

Edit: would the opening be 1.5 mm when brakes are applied??

Try to start the engine with factory settings

"Typically the high-speed needle will need to be adjusted 2-3 full turns open and the low speed about two full turns open."

[Animeboy123]

ok thanks alll, i am going down to the HS tomarrow to get a part for my diff, the adjustment screw. Mine, i think, was defective in a way, i was adjusttings it and i notice it was threading strange so i took it out and it was bent! i was like :eek: lol weird huh. So when i can get all that done with i am going to try to run it if i can start it, i am preety sure my LSN is to rich but my LHS told me to try not to adjust that so i think i am going to try and see if they can start it for me if i cant figure it out.

[speedydave]

I started building my Drake this morning, and it looks like there's a small crack in the tank, about 3/4" long. It doesn't look like it goes all the way through, and it appears that it starts from the inside, but my question is, should I just run the tank, send it back to Losi, or what? I can try to get a pic tonight, but I'll be gone all day. Thanks.

[MikeWz]

Dave-I see you did go for the nt. Sweet deal. You'll love it. Personnaly, I'd just send the tank back. You'll only have to wait like 3-5 days and it's free. Might as well.

[Got Speed]

speedydave- Call Losi up. Great service. I called up about a deffective A-Arm once and got a replacement package of two 3 days later. They should send you out another one.

[winning edge designs]

There is also sometimes mold lines inside the tanks, that look like cracks? Is it possible it isn't a crack, but looks like one, or is it definately?.......Jim

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
There is also sometimes mold lines inside the tanks, that look like cracks? Is it possible it isn't a crack, but looks like one, or is it definately?.......Jim

My thoughts exactly...

[speedydave]

The crack is diagonally across the flat bottom of the tank. Definitely not supposed to be there. ;)

[speedydave]

Here's a pic...

[losiguy1090]

thats not supposed to be there. send it back to losi, or if u dont wanna wait that long u can run over to your lhs and pick one up for like 5-10 bucks.

[losixxx213]

I broke my first part on this half ass truck(sport). I love it, I'm just not to fond of the plastics used to make the parts. But any of my 3 losi would've broke at a high speed wheelie collision with a parked car,lol. This truck is awsome, accelerates harder and stronger than my xxxt mfe. Just need a new front a-arm now.

[winning edge designs]

And, the cool thing is that the XXXT MFE and the XXX-NT take the same front arms, ;).......My electric truck does out accelerate my gas truck though, faster laps too, hmmmmm............Jim

[Strike 4]

I wonder what will come after the XXX-NT they cant call it XXXX-NT because it is too long, what would you name it?

[jdm3849]

4X-NT

[ross]

Just keep the name and call it XXXNT MK2

[speedydave]

Just got off the phone with Losi. Wow, great service! Told them I opened the box and the tank was cracked, he (Bill, I think) asked for my name and address, and said it would be out in the morning. Woohoo! :D

[cave]

When I bought my 1st losi xxxnt I had less than a millasecond on it before I cracked the Rear pivot block. I emailed Losi and had a new one in 3 days. They didnt even ask for a picture. Great Customer Service!!! Good move on Losi's part. Local Hobby Shops should try there style out.

Got Speed I practice at SRS on Saturday AM. Me and Tony were there all morn till race time. Had to go to a bachlor party. Awesome track. I wore down a new set of Boeties that day. Cant wait to race it there. see soon.

cave

[Strike 4]

Yeah everybody loves Bill most popular guy in consumer service! Man rear pivot block is a pain to pull and install!

[MikeWz]

Dave-Good move, better to fix it now than have to wait for it when you're really getting into it.
Losi has great customer service. I rank them right up there with Traxxas and Trinity

[speedydave]

I have never dealt with Trinity before, but Traxxas seemed pretty good. However, don't say that Traxxas has good customer service anywhere around jeepinator. ;) I'd say Losi's customer service is very comperable to AE's and Novak's. Novak has some of the best customer service in the biz, IMO.

[Got Speed]

Are they actually coming out with a new NT!?

cave- Are you still going to race this sat.? How about Tony? Or is he going to that other track? I put two tanks on it a last thursday. Those jumps are easy to overestimate. Long runways with medium sized jumps.

[winning edge designs]

TeamLosi and thier engineers are always testing new stuff, that's what makes them one of the leaders in the R/C racing world!.....I wouldn't be surprised if they had a new truck, or heavily updated one within a year or so, maybe less? Just speculation.

I have also had good experience with TeamLosi, Novak,Traxxas and A/E's customer service, they all realize it's a BIG part of the company image!

My worst experience was with victor engineering, wonder where they are now? I've also recently had an XTM experience, not too good, but that truck is gone now, shame, it handled well, but broke in my first race heat after 3 tanks of practice and break in.................Jim

[Casper]

I just talked with losi about a mini-T servo "issue" They are sending one out today! Losi is great about the little stuff like this. Trinity does not rank tops on my customer service list. Most issues I have had with them they just wined about a whole bunch and never really did anything and that was after much effort to get ahold of them!

I would expect an AD2 update around the corner. I am not sure if they will redesign the tranny but at least a suspension update.

[Got Speed]

That would be nice. Hopefully the new stuff would interchangeable with existing parts. So you could just upgrade that and not the whole truck.

[winning edge designs]

Hahaha, i'll bet a weeks pay that by the end of summer, early fall there will be literally hundreds of hop-up items for the MGT making it possible to easily out do my $1,000 hop-up estimate....The one I raced against recently wasn't all that, lap time wise, but it was cool to watch and sounded great....;), Jim

[MikeWz]

Casper-I'm surprised. I was missing some parts for my RFX and they never questioned me. Just asked what I was missing and sent out the parts. Got them 2 days after I e-mailed them. Can't complain here.

Didn't RCCA have some kind of blacked out spy photo of a Losi MT they were working on? I wouldn't expect it to be out for a while, but I know something is coming.

[kekekek]

bah i got some Super Duty Ti Turnbuckles for my XXXNT sport but they dont fit, they said they were for an xxxnt, maybe they dont work with the sport? im confused and 50$ short, they are RPM. Bah i found this little tag that says " All super duty Turnbuckles require the Short TPM heavy duty rod ends. Including all losi kits. wow this sux ok

[dkj-M3]

if you have the sport-rtr the stock ball cups should fit the super duty's. the new pro-line tmaxx captured-ends also work, or you can use the old traxxas tmaxx cap-ends, but you'll have to drill the hole a little bigger. The super duty's are what you want. I have bent/broke the smaller lundsford turnbuckles.

[MikeWz]

Originally posted by ross
Just keep the name and call it XXXNT MK2
I was thinking more along the lines of the XXX-NT EVO, or maybe LTi(because it can't be STi). And you know it's hardcore if it's got the evo tag. Now all they need are some NOS or NX stickers :D

[cave]

GS I'll be out there tonight with tony. I got ato work Saturday but I'll be there.

Any one have a solution to a MRC charger? My START button doesnt work any more. I e mailed MRC but no responce. All I want is the curcuit board. Still no reply from MRC. GS remember you had this problem.

cave

[losiguy1090]

get the new superbrain. i have it and its much better than the old one.

but my question is, are there any servo savers that would fit on the xxxnt? cuz i was racing on monday night, hit a wall in the beginning of the amain and stripped my hitec 625 mg steering servo.

[dkj-M3]

How about just XXX-NT KJE or just the XXX-NT AD2

losiguy1090- the truck comes with a servo saver. It's the 1st part you have to put together. You have to loosen the lock-nut. Then test by holding the servo horn & turning the steering linkage.

KJ:D

[kekekek]

Anyone know where i could get some Short RPM HEavy Duty Rod Ends?

[dkj-M3]

kekekek- Your gonna want captured-ends for the inside rear.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0096p?&N=N&C=&F=RPMC8020&L=RPMC0145&S1=RPM&S2=&S3=&S4=

[kekekek]

ok, u know where ic ould get the normal ones though? for the front

[losiguy1090]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
How about just XXX-NT KJE or just the XXX-NT AD2

losiguy1090- the truck comes with a servo saver. It's the 1st part you have to put together. You have to loosen the lock-nut. Then test by holding the servo horn & turning the steering linkage.

KJ:D

thanks.

[cave]

losiguy1090
If you hit the wall hard enough you'll still break it

cave

[Tim'sLosi]

On the Trinity Alum Pivot Block for the XXXNT, are the set screws that hold the hinge pins in on the top or the bottom? I got a Drake roller with the block already on and the spur gear was rubbing it. The set screws were on the bottom. Otherwise, maybe the previous owner put the wrong part on period.

Thanks as always...

Tim

[Tim'sLosi]

Is there any real difference between the Drake trans and the RTR trans? I mean any operational or functional difference...not the fact that the gears are different colors or the case says RTR.

Thanks...
Tim

[dkj-M3]

Tim'sLosi- set screws go on top. only difference is the normal drake tranny has coned washers, while the rtr has a spring.
I think the spring is easier to adjust, but I like the washers better.

[losiguy1090]

the rtr has softer gears inside it

[cave]

Tim'sLosi
the RTR has the Monster diff nut assembly w/ spring. Where as the Drack has concaved washers. Ive run both and I seam to like the washers. The RTR also may have the spacer washers between the diff gear and the bearing where the drake dosent. There may be a slight differenc in ID width in the RTR this would be the reason for the spacers. I have both Ready to Rebuild and the Drake.
I hope they make stronger parts for the new & improved Losi ST. Thicker front arms would be nice and are doable. There is 3/4 of an inch to do it Rears too. I'm really surprised that RPM hasnt already capitalized on this. I'm not a perfect driver and I tap the pipe alot and sometime those little front arms up fron take a beating other time a simple nudge from another driver snaps it in half.
Come on Losi yu can doooeat
cave

[Tim'sLosi]

The last guy that had this Drake put the alum pivot block in wrong...probably why he got rid of it cheap. From what I have read i think I will put the trans from my RTR in the Drake. It has the light one piece slipper shaft and has been really reliable so I think I will keep it together. I'll just transfer the alum brake clips. Am I crazy for doing this? Is it really that different that I should crack open the case and swap the shaft to the Drake?? Give your final opinion on this!

Tim

[ross]

Originally posted by Tim'sLosi
The last guy that had this Drake put the alum pivot block in wrong...probably why he got rid of it cheap. From what I have read i think I will put the trans from my RTR in the Drake. It has the light one piece slipper shaft and has been really reliable so I think I will keep it together. I'll just transfer the alum brake clips. Am I crazy for doing this? Is it really that different that I should crack open the case and swap the shaft to the Drake?? Give your final opinion on this!

Tim

Why not take the one peice slipper shaft off the RTR trans and put it on the drake?

[cave]

Tim'sLosi I believe that the newer RTR have the updated material in the gears. No need to change all that. Unless your board and want to do it. If it aint broke dont try to fix it.
Better to get more practice time driving than tinkering with the what ifs.
Ive run the Drake with the Trinity alloy block with the set screws both ways. I acually use it with the set screws on the bottom and I drive just fine. It works for me.Im just alittle aggressive.
everyone tells me that its on upside down but when I match it up to the plastick one its the same. Seams to me that it would be a real pain in the keaster to get to the set screws from the top. to each's own. Ide leave it till you need it. I have a back up so when I strip the diff I just replace the entire tranny.

cave

[cabbynate]

Has anyone found any quality clutch bell bearings that will last more than 3 race days?:confused:

[RCRACER2471]

Try www.acerracing.com or www.bocabearings.com. Acer Racing ceramic bearings seem to br pretty high in performance and should give that long lasting feeling that all bearings should have....

[dkj-M3]

cabbynate- there must be a problem, I use the losi bearings & they last a very long time, I just replaced some form about 7 months ago, the bearings broke, cause my flywheel collet wore out, which made the clutch bell wear out, which cause the bearings to not seat firmly.LOL Had to get a new C-bell, flywheel & collet. Fixed now. Are you using the normal bearings or the flanged kind, I had problems with the flange bearings, but the normal ones should work fine.:eek: :o :D

[dkj-M3]

I've heard of guys running the trinity block upside down. It just changes the anti-squat to (I think) 0*. Only thing is how does the spur gear clear it if the suspention is compressed all the way down.

[cabbynate]

RCRACER2471,
Thanks, I will look into those sights.

dkj-M3
I have used booth. I like to change mine often but I had one new one go out after one 5 min, heat!!! It was a Losi flanged. I may try losi's non flanged ad see how those go. For a while about a year ago Losi was having problems with some of there bearings and the one's I put in where from my old stock.

[MikeWz]

Acer racing has the most rediculously...rediculus...the most crazy free spinning bearings I've ever seen in my entire life. And they last FOREVER. Only problem is a full set for the truck runs over $100.....Sad face :(

[losiguy1090]

acerracing just came out with some new bearings that have a new seal and dont have ceramic balls. but theyre supposed to be pretty fast and last long too. and theyre 60 bucks. im getting em next time i rebild my diff.

[LoSick]

I´ve used the cheap 6 dollars flanged from duratrax for bearings for 3 months and no problems at all. race on dirt every wednesday, and on parking lot every sunday. I use trinity bearing oil once every month and that might be the reason for endurance!

[cabbynate]

I have tried to lub the clutch bell bearing with a tiny drop of lub on each bearing and let it sit out after an hour or so wipe them clean and they still manage to leak lub in the clutch bell?:confused:

[LoSick]

nop, no leak into the bell, I use the trinity high performance bearing oil, only a tiny drop is more than enough, let it sit for a while and then a few rolls to avoid leaks into the bell will do it.

[cave]

Somewhere on this site I read that the bearings on the clutbell are special. Adding oil to them will cause the clutches to slip. I ruin my flangeged set by running the wrong size shim. That aluminum sleeve part. I replaced them with the Drake style bearings no flange. these bearings are sealled so oil wont flow into the clutches.
I may of missed something but what motor recked you bearings?I run a Mugen and I run every e=weekend sept the last 2. No problems in over 8 ta 10 months on the drake sealed bearings.

cave

[Animeboy123]

Hey everyone,

i finally got a chance to run my XXXNT Sport yesterday and it was a blast. I still need to fine tune it a little but i think i am getting close to getting it right, i also wanted to know how i would know if my LSN is to rich or lean. I have heard JoeMaxx talk about his test by pinching the fuel line and seeing how long it runs to determine if it is to rich or vice versa but i want to know how long it would run if it was to rich and how long it would to be lean too?? Also my engine mount screws on the bottom of the chassis got stripped while i was trying to get out my engine to clean some dirt off of it, i tried using the dremmel to cut a slot in it so i could use a flat head but no good wouldnt loosen, lol i guess my thread lock was a little to good . Anyone have anygood ideas on how to get them off or what i should do?? Thanks.

Also what is a good cleaner to use on my engine (like motor cleaner for electric motors but for nitro engines)?

Thanks again all ^^x

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by Animeboy123
Hey everyone,

i want to know how long it would run if it was to rich and how long it would to be lean too??

i guess my thread lock was a little to good . Anyone have anygood ideas on how to get them off or what i should do?? Thanks.

Also what is a good cleaner to use on my engine (like motor cleaner for electric motors but for nitro engines)?

Thanks again all ^^x

1. When you pinch the line it should run for 2-3 seconds then shut off. If it runs longer than that, lean it an 1/8 turn. If it shuts off right away, richen it 1/8. Then retest.

2. a hair dryer on the screws should soften stubborn threadlock, if that is the problem. Otherwise the dremel trick should work.

3. Buy denatured alcohol and a spray bottle at the hardware store. That is what the expensive aerosol sprays are.

[ross]

Aimeboy,

Theres no need to use threadlock on them screws, just do them up nice and tight! Also if you dont already have one get yourself a 5/64" or 2mm hex driver.

[cave]

Animeboy123 Put a Hot soldering Iron on the screw for bit then try to Unscrew it.
Hum, I never heard that trick on lean or fat. Where exactly would you pinch the line? I would think there would be a slight difference in time by where you pinch off the line. How long does the line have to be to make the correct calculations?
Not razzin, just curious.
I watch the oil that comes out of the pipe and also listen to the sound as I give it throttle. If it hessatates I lean it out. Then I take a Temp and if the temps around 230° Then Im done. Animeboy123 try to save some money and pick up a temp gun. This will help you tune. Once you get the feeling right youll be able to get a bench mark and work from there. Its not too diffacult. Getting there takes some time.

cave

[losiguy1090]

i just thought id let you guys know that i picked up a native racing upperdeck for my xxxnt and it is truly sweet:cool: i can take out the steering servo with 2 screws and i can adjust the servo position by taking out the same 2 screws and sliding it back and forth. and i have about 6 adjustment holes:cool: and the tank comes out with 4 screws. it also has a transponder mount so no more holes in bodies. its also extremely rigid and flat out looks cool. my only gripe is that i had to countersink one of the holes on the underside of the chassis but my dad had the tool to do it. i highly reccomend this top deck. dont be fooled by the fact that its alluminum because its surprisingly light. i think its worth the kinda high price tag of 70 bucks.

[ross]

Originally posted by losiguy1090
i just thought id let you guys know that i picked up a native racing upperdeck for my xxxnt and it is truly sweet:cool: i can take out the steering servo with 2 screws and i can adjust the servo position by taking out the same 2 screws and sliding it back and forth. and i have about 6 adjustment holes:cool: and the tank comes out with 4 screws. it also has a transponder mount so no more holes in bodies. its also extremely rigid and flat out looks cool. my only gripe is that i had to countersink one of the holes on the underside of the chassis but my dad had the tool to do it. i highly reccomend this top deck. dont be fooled by the fact that its alluminum because its surprisingly light. i think its worth the kinda high price tag of 70 bucks.

Have you got a pic or a link?

[Shady]

i just thought id let you guys know that i picked up a native racing upperdeck for my xxxnt and it is truly sweet i can take out the steering servo with 2 screws and i can adjust the servo position by taking out the same 2 screws and sliding it back and forth. and i have about 6 adjustment holes and the tank comes out with 4 screws. it also has a transponder mount so no more holes in bodies. its also extremely rigid and flat out looks cool. my only gripe is that i had to countersink one of the holes on the underside of the chassis but my dad had the tool to do it. i highly reccomend this top deck. dont be fooled by the fact that its alluminum because its surprisingly light. i think its worth the kinda high price tag of 70 bucks.

if you race it ya might want to invest in the native battery box also, you will never break it

[MikeWz]

Dynamite and R/C trix also make indestructable battery boxes for her

[Shady]

dunno about the Dynamite box but the RC Trix box weighs more than the stock box, the native box weighs almost the exact same amount as the stock box so you won't notice the change when adding it

[losiguy1090]

i got the native racing box. its very nice.

[losiguy1090]

Originally posted by ross
Have you got a pic or a link?

no pic. but i got a link. www.remotecontrolhobby.com

[MikeWz]

Originally posted by Shady
dunno about the Dynamite box but the RC Trix box weighs more than the stock box, the native box weighs almost the exact same amount as the stock box so you won't notice the change when adding it
How does the native one weight the same as the stock one. It's almost identical to the Trix one except it has letters cut out of the top instead of holes.

[Shady]

the material is different and the Trix box has a lip on it that adds even more.

[losiguy1090]

mike, the rctrix box also has more material protecting the battery. the posts are alloy and theres a lil lip to help protect the bat.

[Got Speed]

Animeboy123- Probably a little late but if your LSN is too lean usually it have an unstable idle and could stall easily at low speed. Sometimes it will take it a little longer to idle down and sound a little different. Tuning really isn't difficult. You just have to get used to the feel, sound, temp, etc. Like cave said a temp gun can really help. Don't set your self to a certain temp you will do more harm than good that way. Once it is tuned right usually your engine will run +-20 degrees of that unless you go into a totally different climate.

For batt boxs you can also make a brace for the box(got this idea from cave). You can get the plastic steering link, two ball studs, and a nut for one of the studs and make a brace(as long as your arn't using a sway bar). Drill a hole in the box and put the ball stud and nut there. The other stud in the hole on the shock tower where the sway bar would go. I've been using a turnbuckle and ball cups instead but my batt box didn't even start to crack the holes after about 6 months. I'm using a captured end and a 4-40 bolt now since it is larger and will not damage the top of the box as easily. It works great and dosn't weight anything more(plus it only costs a couple bucks).

Anyone going to the Nitro Challenge next week?

[losiguy1090]

gotspeed, im having a hard time picturing what your saying. could you try and post a pic if you can? theres also an aftermarket alloy brace, fogot the mfg

[AreCee]

Originally posted by losiguy1090
gotspeed, im having a hard time picturing what your saying. could you try and post a pic if you can? theres also an aftermarket alloy brace, fogot the mfg I believe the item you're referring to is made by Dace.

The braces Got Speed is talking about are very similar to the chassis braces used in the Kyosho MP7.5 KII 1/8 scale buggy.

[tr918]

Originally posted by losiguy1090
gotspeed, im having a hard time picturing what your saying. could you try and post a pic if you can? theres also an aftermarket alloy brace, fogot the mfg

The brace that Got Speed is talking about was posted by Cave on Page 32 of the old XXXNT forum v7.0. It is a really good Idea. I was thinking of trying it myself. Hope this helps. -TR

[losiguy1090]

i just looked at it, thats an ingenious little idea:cool:

arecee, it does kinda look like a chassis brace on a buggy.

[Strike 4]

Hey guys in order to get the arm off do I have to remove the whole rear pivot block?

[Got Speed]

Yeah, cave posted a pic of my car a while back. It works great. If you use a small turbuckle and captured ends it will work even better because of the bolt in the bat box instead of the ball stud.

Dace mfg. is the one who makes the other brace. IMO this works just as well or better.

I've found the best 5 mods I've ever done are: The batt box brace, washers in between the bolt and shock end(for the rear), shock piston on the antenna tube(keeps it from coming out), captured rod ends for the rear inside, and longer screws for the front bulkhead.

[losiguy1090]

Originally posted by Strike 4
Hey guys in order to get the arm off do I have to remove the whole rear pivot block?

take off the batt box and slide out the hingepins. if you have trinitys pivot block, loosen the set screws. and then take off the hinge pins on the rear hub carriers by removing the e-clips

[Strike 4]

I took the battery box off and there is not a E clip on it I tried pushing it and it wont move I can't pull it bacause it is jamed in there. I have the team Trinity alluminum pivot...

[losiguy1090]

theres not supposed to be an e-clip on the pivot block. theres e-clips on the hub carriers. loosen up the set screws on the pivot block and gently slide them out with plyers.

[Strike 4]

I know but there is no e clip on the rear of the hub carriers and when I push it wont move same as when I pull.

[Strike 4]

Oh and this is a rear arm...:p

[speedydave]

There aren't supposed to be e-clips on any part of the rear inner suspension. The Trinity block captures the hinge pin in the front (which is why you can't push the pin out), and the battery box captures it in the rear. The Trinity rear pivot block (along with the front) uses setscrews to hold the hingepin in place so it doesn't develop wear on the pivot block as quickly, and also holds the hinge pin in. Loosen up the setscrew, and the pin should slide out.

[Strike 4]

I see were is the set screw?

[cabbynate]

Has any one tried using the MIP heavyweight flywheel? I just ordered one today. It should smooth out the power delivery a tiny bit. I needed a new flywheel so I though I would give it a try.

[Got Speed]

If it is the Trinity Aluminum pivot block there should be two .050" set screws on the top part of the pivot block(behind the batt box). If you loose the set screws it should come out easily. If it dosn't you can grab it in between the arm with needle nose pliers and slide it out. It will only pull out the back. Same thing with the stock pivot block just no set screws.

[LoSick]

cabbynate, got one of Mip, works great but do not use the washer as it kind of ties the spur to the bell. I even had to use washer for the spur. (depends also on the engine, mine is cv r)

[cabbynate]

LoSick,
Thanks for the input. I will keep the washer thing in mind.

;)

[Animeboy123]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Animeboy123- Probably a little late but if your LSN is too lean usually it have an unstable idle and could stall easily at low speed. Sometimes it will take it a little longer to idle down and sound a little different.

Yep, what u said is what is happenning to me right now, thanks for the info. Also i have a temp. gun and it works wonders for me. I also found a good site that has some good tunning tips, the site is Nitromonkey.com.

Also i got those stripped screws out thanks to my dremel and my soldering iron then replaced them after i got them out. Sometime this weekend i am going to try to run my cars, especialy my NT, i havent really been able to drive at all this week due to school stuff but tomarrow me and my friend are going to be driving our buggies after school, so most likely on saturday i will be able to run my NT.

[LoSick]

Anyone knows if there´s a sway bar set available? or if the xxxt´s, is compatible? more into on road right now!

[losiguy1090]

i was looking for the swaybar on horizon and they only sell one for the xxx. part #4142. will this fit on the xxxnt?

[AreCee]

The front sway bar may work since the two share the same front end but the rear is totally different and won't work.

[losiguy1090]

thanks, do you know of any rear swaybars that will fit the xxxnt?

[dmann33]

Hello,

I've read some old posts on this topic and had come to the conclusion of getting an MT12 with the big head and an OS 10E carb as an ideal power plant set-up for off-road racing.

However, I called Superior Hobbies, and they told me that Mugen has stopped making the MT12 in lieu of the MR12 and X12. The did not reccomend either of these 2 other options and suggest the RB X12 with Slide carb as the best bet for under $200.

Does anyone have any quick advice for a racing engine in this truck, I'm confused. Is the MT-12 still being made?


Many thanks!

[Got Speed]

Not many posts since I left. :confused:

dmann33- I didn't know they discontinued them. I'd check on that first. There is no need for an O.S. carb. It just adds an extra $60 to the cost IMO. The X12 is a great engine. That would be every bit as good a choice as the MT12.

I just got back from the Nitro Challenge yesterday. It's was a load of fun. It's the first time I've ever driven on that surface, but it took the whole weekend just to start getting used to it. I really like that surface though. It's much more forgiving than hard packed or blue groove surfaces. I qualified 48 of 154. Placed, I think 4th in the E-Main, lol. :o

I'm looking at getting some alum. rear hub carriers. I know stock are 1 deg. Most of the ones people stock are 0 or 2 deg. Should I order the 1 deg. or would I be better off going with 0 or 2. I've never experimented with rear toe.

[Lord Hobbes]

hey, ive alwase wondered somehitng about my xxx-nt. does anyone know of a way you could like strap a belt or shaft drivetrain on a xxx-nt and make it 4wd? i dunno, just a thought. :)

anyway. is the 16 bucks u pay for the graphite brace, bulkhead, and kickplate good? i mean, i broke my kickplate and was wondering if there was somehitng i could do, cuz at this rate, everythings gonna be graphite on my car within the next month at the rate im braking parts.

[cabbynate]

Got Speed,
I would stick with the 1dg rear hubs. 2dg gives to much to in and the truck doesn't like to turn smoothly with those. 0dg free up the rear end and adds to mid corner spin outs. The reason no one stocks the 1dg rear hubs I bet is because they run out. Was Adam Drake at the shootout? I think he runs an OS carb on his Nova.

[losiguy1090]

does anyone know the part # for a swaybar for the xxxnt in the rear?

[cabbynate]

losiguy,
I don't think Losi makes one..............................................
I could be wrong though?:confused:

[MikeWz]

Lord Hobbes-I dunno about being 4wd. If you did do it wouldn't simply be "slapping it on." You'd have to make a monut for it in the front so it'd be a lot of work. As for the $16 being worth it, yeah go for it. Much more rigid than the stock plastic

[Lord Hobbes]

i didnt think there would be.......

i broke my front kickplate on the smallest of crashes...... hopefully the graphite will withstand my brutal beatings.......

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by Lord Hobbes
i didnt think there would be.......

i broke my front kickplate on the smallest of crashes...... hopefully the graphite will withstand my brutal beatings.......

Actually graphite is more brittle. The best for beatings is the standard plastic boiled in water for ten minutes.

[Got Speed]

Lord Hobbes- Did you actually break the kickplate or did you strip out the threads in the bulkhead? Actually breaking the kickplate is very rare. The graphite won't be stronger than the normal kit plastic. If you stripped the holes(which is most common), then by a new bulk and get screws that are 1/4-1/2 inch longer. It makes it much stronger.


cabbynate- Adam Drake was there. He was switching back and forth from 1st to 2nd but then he flamed out which put him a lap down. I think he ended up half a lap back with 3rd. Yeah, I thought it would be best to stick with the 1 deg. In his last engine he was said to be running the Novarossi carb but with OS made parts in the carb body.

[cabbynate]

Wow......It is rear for him to flame out!!!! I had heard that about the Nova/OS carb too. In the February issue of RC Car Action they have his truck in it and if you look very close you will see what really, really looks like an OS carb on his Nova. Even down to the carb adapter.

[losiguy1090]

gotspeed, ive broken my kickplate/bulkhead but that was from a full speed runnaway into an f150.:D

graphite is less crash resistant, it will break more easilly in crashes.

[Lord Hobbes]

why boil the plastic? wouldnt that melt it or deform it? anyway, the kickplate DID break, and i know why. those screwes you were talking about, ive replaced them several times. one of them backed out and the other screw i put in was way too short, so the kickplate or whatever part bolts in there was totally loose. i just went over a tiny bump, landed on the front nose, and me and my friend both heard it snap. ill just have to put the long screws in both sides now.

thx for the input on the graphite parts, u guys just saved my job-less wallet 9 dollars :)

[Got Speed]

losiguy1090- LOL I've have seen them broken like that. But not often.

cabbynate- Yeah. I know he is running the side exh. Novarossi. Didn't he just get a new engine though? I don't know if it is an actual OS carb or not. I don't know why he would run OS parts and not the whole carb though.

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by Lord Hobbes
why boil the plastic? wouldnt that melt it or deform it?

No, it doesn't change the appearance of the part at all. It sorta "anneals" the plastic and makes it flex more w/o breaking.
TT

[Lord Hobbes]

just to ask, what kinda engines u guys running, what tires, and what kinda XXX-NT? (sport, standard, drake) also, how do u like the engine you have. and for the more intelligent ones: what do u think of my setup, i have never compared it to other NT's:

XXX-nt Sport ARTR
Futaba 2pc 75mhz AM 1 s3003
JR standard steering servo
2001 ported Fantom FR-12 (orange head)
Venom 1100mah Reciever pack
Stock offroad tires, for onroad i use a pair of the standard tires on a elec. rustler, with the little knobs cut off with a dremel. in a way, these tires have no grip but will last forever.

[Tim'sLosi]

Boiling plastic
Boiling is a common practice used to increase the strength and reduce the brittleness of plastic parts. It is analogous to the practice of "heat treating" metals as done with parts for aircraft engines. The concept is to get it up to a temperature where the molecules can move around more freely, then slowly cool the parts. When this is done, as the molecules slowly slow down, they form a more crystal-like structure, giving the substance greater strength. Again, the slow-cooling of the parts is critical to this process.

[losiguy1090]

i have the xxxnt sport, too many hopups too list. you can find them in the post your cars thread in the elec forum.

fantom .12 se rc non ps 03
jr xr3i
hitec 625 mg steering servo
jr std throttle servo
tires depend on surface
dynamite 1000 mah nimh rx pack
fantom single stage pipe chrome finish

i love my setup:D when the season starts up im gonna get one of dem oddonnell offroad engines:cool: but for now the fantom is awsome.

[speedydave]

Originally posted by Tim'sLosi
When this is done, as the molecules slowly slow down, they form a more crystal-like structure, giving the substance greater strength.

I thought boiling parts just made them softer? Or is that pretty much what that's saying?

For whoever was asking: Drake XXXNT with blue Losi ballcups, Trinity rear pivot block and shock collars, and RRP ti ballstuds on the front and rear inner camber links. Engine/electronics:

Mugen MT12 big head w/OS 10E rotary carb and Losi RE manifold
Futaba 3PJ transmitter/R133F receiver
Hitec 5925MG steering/Air. 94737 throttle servos
Orion 1200mah rx pack
AMBrc personal transponder

Tires: For our indoor(arena) track, I'm running R3 Holeshots with Losi firm inserts (LHS was out of Trinity grey inserts, which is what is preferred...) and Losi Red directionals. Outdoors, I run Losi Red step pins and Red directionals (same stuff that comes with the truck).

As for what I think of my engine, I love it. It tunes really easily thanks to the OS carb, idles well, temps well (200-210 on O'Donnell 20%), is pretty smooth on the bottom end (not as smooth as some, but pretty damn controllable if you ask me) and lots of top end, and is GREAT on fuel mileage (9+ mins to a tank).

Anyway...finally got a pic of my NT:

[Shady]

XXXNT Drake, trinity front and rear piviot blocks, trinity shock collars, Native Racing Battery Box, Traxxas captured rod ends on inside rear
Motor(s): RBX12 on its very last leg, getting either a OS CV-R or a CV and having it modified
Fuel: O'Donnell 30%
Radio: Airtronics M8
Servos: Airtronics
Pipe(s): Drake, Stock with a homemade stinger, AE Factory Team, RB X12 Pipe

Next mod is going to be moding this chassis to accept the new GT tank that has the screw in plunger to make it 75cc legal for roar races

[SHADOWMAN]

I would go for the CVR it has a very smooth mid range. Exellent off-road engine.;)

[losiguy1090]

i have a lot of slop in my right front a arm. so much that when it moves that it changes the toe and camber angle a lil. i have an extra arm, should i replace it?

[kekekek]

Where is the best place to put the magnets on the Venom speed gage, and where should i mount the speed gage itself? Thanks for the help :)