Team Losi XXXNT forum v8.0

[losiguy1090]

actually, it wasnt the aarm. my steering has more slop on the right side. does anyone know how to fix this?

[cabbynate]

Got Speed,
Yea, he has his own Nova. It was the one he was running. He likes side exhaust. Maybe he used OS needles in the Nova carb because I can't see anything else working.

[low10s]

i just got a mip clutch for my losi De, what is the difference between the leading, and trailing edge. how does it effect performance. thanks

[MikeWz]

Losiguy-check the ball studs on the steering linkage. I had the same problem and it was because mine were loose. That should fix your problem

[cabbynate]

low10s,
Leading is the stock set up. Trailing engages harder and not as smooth. Almost everyone goes with leading.

[Got Speed]

cabbynate- Yeah probably. I can't see what the advantages would be though.

[cabbynate]

The needles are a different diameter, taper and length. That might make a difference.

[tr918]

Losiguy1090-- In addition to checking the ball studs, also check to see how worn your rod ends are. I have had the same problem with my xxt and xxxnt. The ball studs were fine, but the rod ends were so worn that they could be pulled off with little to no effort. Hope this helps. ---TR

[losiguy1090]

i have captured everywhere but the stearing[sp?] i have rpms there. its really hard to pull them off. everything is tight. im going to the lhs to return sumtin today and when i go ill pick up another shim kit. see if dat works

[Tim'sLosi]

Do you have bearings or plastic bushings in the bellcranks? If bushings, they could be worn.

[ross]

losiguy1090,

You should really replace all the captured ball ends and bushings, Ive found they wear quite a bit quicker than the standard ball cups/ends. IMO, there is no need to run captured on the front only on the inner rear joints but whatever works for you.

[low10s]

cabbynate, thanks for the reply. has anyone tried the lugnut rear tires from proline. would they be used in place of step pins. thanks

[Shady]

yeah, i am prolly gonna get the CV-R, the LHS has it cheap so its the top contender right now, its perfect for the track i race at to

[dmann33]

Just rec'd my new MT12.

After putting the flywheel on and turning the engine over by hand, it seems to "catch" at TDC without the glowplug installed.

Its not your normal tightness, it really seems to snag at TDC. I pulled the back plate off, but all looks fine. Watching the crank from the inside, it gets really tight just before TDC, then snaps over and through TDC to a similar point past TDC.

Is this normal for a new engine without the plug installed?

Thanks in advance (I know you guys will know).

[dmann33]

OK, I took a blow dryer the the engine to heat it up and it is much smoother (although still a pinch at TDC).

I think its just tight like it should be out of the box.

[cabbynate]

dmann33,
It should be tight like that. Make sure to use some lube before you start it up. A few drops down the glow hole and turn it over a few times. And don't let it idle rich for the first few tanks. That will just make it loose.

[losiguy1090]

Originally posted by ross
losiguy1090,

You should really replace all the captured ball ends and bushings, Ive found they wear quite a bit quicker than the standard ball cups/ends. IMO, there is no need to run captured on the front only on the inner rear joints but whatever works for you.

thanks, i was gonna get some new ones today when i go to my lhs after school cuz the ones i have in the back are too short and i dont have much adjustment. theyre so short i have to go to the inner camber links in the back.

[ross]

Originally posted by Shady
yeah, i am prolly gonna get the CV-R, the LHS has it cheap so its the top contender right now, its perfect for the track i race at to

Good choice, I have run this engine for over a year now and I cant fault it. Its only ever let me down once and all it needed was the carb blasting out. Its powerful yet tremendosly smooth. Dont be tempted by the Novarossi's, RB's etc with more power, I know many of my fellow racers dont like thiers because they are to powerful and cant be controlled on a low traction track.

[cabbynate]

LoSick,
I got the MIP heavyweight flywheel. I could not use the MIP clutch. It dragged on something. The stock Losi went in good. I left the washer behind the collet and had to shim the spur gear 0.050. It seems to sit high in the chassis? Do you have any problems with your starter box? I won't get to run it this way for a week or two.
Thanks.
The engine I run is a Picco .12 RC Speed with the dark blue head.

[Shady]

ross-i had a cvr once but it sucked dirt early and after that i went RB, i love the RB's and plan on getting another for big races but the cvr is perfect for the club tracks i run

[LoSick]

cabbynate

forgot to mention that i use the hobbico rubber car adapted to my standard plane starter. You could cut the rubber flywheel into a smaller diameter so it will fit the chassis and reach the mip flywheel. but also reposition the starter motor so the rubber is more exposed compared to the previous setup. that will do it.

[cabbynate]

Well I could not stand it so I went out front on the street to try it out. It fit the starter box fine, it just kept coming lose. I used locktite on the shaft and everything. Needless to say I put the stock flywheel back on and I'm up and running fine again.
I would not recommend the MIP heavyweight flywheel.

[celittca]

FOR SALE !!!!


click here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3175455316&rd=1)

[dmann33]

Does anyone have any expeience using these? If so, please let me know what you thougt of them.

I put them in a couple shocks, but do not notice a difference in the return rate of the shock as advertised. Good idea though.

[LoSick]

cabbynate,

that´s strange, never have a problem with the mip getting lose, anyway, I prefer it to the stock since the pins in my flywheel broke out.

[xdamxincx]

having trouble coming out of corners... some of the tracks is wetter and hooks up fine .. but in some corners its dry and the clay is slippery there it just wants spin out bad.

what are some things i can do to help this ..

its a medium to long track ...
i am using the set up off losi website for slippery tracks

[cabbynate]

LoSick,
Yea, I'm sure it was something I did or did not do. It did drag a tiny bit on the clutch bell also. I put in a brand new Losi flywheel and all it well. (so fare)

xdamxincx,
You could try the MIP heavyweight flywheel. It is suppose to help in that area. Losick can tell ya how to install it the right way. Also a little less gas in the corners also help too. You can go to 1dg anti-squat in the rear. That will give you a little more traction out back as well.

[speedydave]

Wow, I have really bad luck...first time out with the truck I cartwheeled it (nothing major) and snapped a titanium ball stud in the rear shock tower (inner rear camber link). W T F? So, I think I'm going to try to beef this stuff up a little bit more. What's everyone doing as far as ballcups/ballstuds go? I was thinking about going RPM for ballcups, captured inner rears (dunno what company yet, though), and finding a beefier titanium ball stud for the rest of the truck (these were RRP's). This is the first ballstud I've ever snapped, so it left me scratching my head. I'm guessing it's because of the graphite (this is my first all graphite car, I've never really seen the point in getting all graphite unless the car comes with it).

Also, through the RPM range, it sounded like something on the truck was slipping. I tightened the slipper, tightened the diff...the sound lessened, but it was still there. This especially confused me since the truck was coming close to pulling its wheels off the ground out of some corners (and did, occasionally). The truck is new, so it's not the clutch. The odd thing is, it almost sounded like it was worse at higher RPM (and it felt like it was slipping at higher RPM's, too). How tight are the diff and slipper supposed to be? I'm used to AE diffs (and the Mugen diff, which has a spring, like AE diffs), so I'm still learning with this truck (hell, I only got 2 tanks through it at the track before breaking it...). Would going to the RTR NT's spring in the diff help as far as familiarity with adjusting the diff goes? I am by no means a newbie to RC, or to nitro, but this truck marks quite a few firsts for me, so I'm trying to re-learn a bunch of stuff. :( Any help/tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

Side note: Freakin lame! I swear damn near every *slightly* bad word is censored here! Hell, it even censored W T F(without the spaces)! Lame!

[Tim'sLosi]

Here is an post I wrote on tightening the diff as told to me by Losi Tech...

Pretty much follow the directions Losi gives BUT realize this. It is not like screwing a bolt into a hole in a piece of wood. You would tighten it until snug and then go a turn or two further until it is "tight" by your standards. INSTEAD you do the diff test...Tighten the slipper down all the way until spring bottoms out, hold spur and rt wheel and try to turn left wheel forwards. If it doesn't turn with a good deal of force then it is alright for now. IF IT TURNS and you still have flesh on the finger holding the spur gear then lock the screw and right outdrive with a hex key and turn the left wheel backwards 1/8 of a turn ONLY. Here is where I goofed twice. I turned the wheel back until I felt it get "tight". WRONG!!! Check it again after 1/8 of a turn. If not correct go another 1/8. There is a spring in there that once it fully compresses this lock nut is DESIGNED to strip to protect the internals. Once you get the diff to where it does not slip you will need to check it with every tank for the first few tanks until the diff has fully broken-in. I think he said to check it 4 times with first two tanks, then twice with next two tanks. Also you will need to set the slipper after the diff. Turn it out three turns from fully compressed and check it. It should slip for the first 1.5-2.5 feet when you give the truck full throttle. He told me that if I couldn't tell when it was slipping to loosen it to the point at which it was OBVIOUSLY slipping and tighten from there until in that range. He also told me an interesting bit about how those alloy gears are extremely less efficient than the stock molded ones and should not be used. The molded ones have a better tolerance and are self-lubricating for longer life. I got this fom Bill at Losi Tech. We were on the phone for like 25 minutes...heck of a nice guy and very knowledgeable.


Side Note: Keep in mind this forum is run by a business. This business knows that not everyone appreciates colorful language and that it is not required to carry on a conversation about radio controlled models. Therefore it removes unneeded language from posts to keep this forum enjoyable for a broad spectrum of people. I'm surprised damn and hell got through.

[speedydave]

Thanks for the diff adjusting info!

As for the side note, yeah, I'm aware this is a business-run site and their moderation and language control, etc has to reflect that, but either I'm remembering things wrong, or it used to be a lot more laid back around here than it is now (stuff wasn't quite so uptight, if that's the right word for it...). I definitely know that the old chat wasn't nearly as strict as the board is/was, but then again, there is a huge difference between a live chat medium and a realtime bulliten board. I'm usually not one to challenge the rules, as they are there for a reason, but it's a bit hypocritical to me to censor words here that are used in the magazine. Also, I'd think having ads with half nude women in them would be worse than allowing the use of an acronym like WT...you know. But, whatever..this is the NT thread, not Off Topic, so I'll shut up now. :)

[Got Speed]

speedydave- The most important thing for the diff is to make sure that the slipper slips before the diff. To check this; hold one wheel down and hold the spur gear from moving. Then turn the other wheel. The slipper plates should turn if the wheel is turning. If they don't then your diff is too loose. You really don't want your slipper to be too tight either. If it is then you will have a tighter diff which will give you less traction and be harder on the drivetrain. So loosen your slipper to the point where it just barely slips under power then tighten it up 1/4-1/2 a turn untill it does not slip under power at all. Then check your diff. If it does not slip then loosen it. Continue loosening it untill it starts to slip then tighten it up a little(spring 1/8 washers 1/16). I basically run my diff as loose as I can without it slipping. Personally I prefer using the spring in my diff. It is much easier to just drop the spring in than use the washers. The only difference I have noticed between them is that the washers are much more sensitive to adjustment. So really the spring is easier to adjust and easier to deal with than 12 washers. This is what I do and have had great success with it. I agree with you about the mags and the forums though. They have the language and the half-naked girls in there. I think I'll just stop here, lol.

[losiguy1090]

speedydave, get the onepeice diff nut carrier, it wont help your prob but it will help when you lock the diff before you back it off. i run my diff at 1/4 turn from locked.

[xdamxincx]

is it bad to have the slipper clutch too loose ?
and do you guys recommend the bowtie tire for hard dry clay tracks ?

[Got Speed]

xdamxincx- If the diff is too loose you will loose power and if it is very loose you can melt your spur gear. If you hold the car still on the ground it should be able to spin the tires. If the slipper slips then it is too loose.

[losiguy1090]

pin tapers a great for clay tracks.

[rhcsavage21]

is a 20 tooth clutch bell to much for the xxx-nt's mach .15?

[Got Speed]

It depends on where you will be running it. For off-road it is too much. If you are playing around in the parking lot then you should be fine. If you overgear the engine temps will usually go up.

[fly boygt]

Speedydave- I have gone to captured rod ends in the rear and have had no problems with them. Just use a regualr 4/40 5/64 bolt to hold them in and they do not break. I ues rod city and traxxas end. Also what i have found to work the best are these airplane linkage type rod ends.... but i cannot remember the name. Also quite expensive, like 4.00 for two. But thry that, i got sick of running the titanium ball studs and breaking them, at 9.00 for two, and plus the tower sometimes... it hurts the pocket book.

[speedydave]

Thanks for the info! I have some spare captured ends from my MBX5 that will work, but I need the balls, and I'm not sure how big they are, but I guess I can ask in the MBX5 thread! :) I got a new body for my NT the other day...finally got it trimmed and everything. It's hard to see the chrome (alclad) striping in between the red and the black, but it's there. It looks way better in person, but here it is:

[losiguy1090]

you can see the chrome if you look closely. i like the crowd pleazer alot more than the fury nt. its so much stronger.

i painted my crowd pleazer with a patriotic scheme. the front is blue with white stars, the sides of the body are red, and the middle is white. and the wing is blue with a white star in the center. it turned out ok but if i took my time it could have looked alot better.

ill see if i can get any pics up because i havent taken any pics in a long time so ive got quite a few more hopups since the last time i took pics.

[TSR6]

Dave, Glad you like it.

The chrome isn't really meant to be obvious, it just breaks it up between the red and blue, and in the sun, adds some shine. Thats why it's only a thin pinstripe. :D Then with the Faspearl blue, I usually leave it a little thin, that way once it's backed with FasSilver, It really adds some shine to it.

It will be awesome out in the sun on the track. :cool:

-Troy
TSR6@RCTech.net

[low10s]

here is my DE

[losiguy1090]

ok i finally had time to go to the hobby store yesterday. i bought a sway bar kit, red springs for the front, mip orings for the shocks, paint. i was gonna get some trinity alluminum rear hubs with this store credit i had for returning a body but i found out that theyre discontinued:( does anyone know where i can find them besides ebay?

[Got Speed]

speedydave- Yeah the captured ball ends work so much better. I've been using since about a month after I got my NT and havn't broken one yet. The rear inner studs seem to break far easier than any of the others.

losiguy1090- Discontinued? I doubt it. They could be but there are several brands who make them(I especially doubt Trinity stopped making them though). It doesn't say that they have been discontinued on their web site.

[losiguy1090]

when i went to the hobby store yesterday the guys was out of stock. he did a search on his computer and it said that theyre discontinued.

[TSR6]

Originally posted by losiguy1090
when i went to the hobby store yesterday the guys was out of stock. he did a search on his computer and it said that theyre discontinued.

Make sure he checked both distributors, whats the part number?

[losiguy1090]

dont know.
but i have a rear swaybar question. the rear sway bar has these greenish lil posts where it hooks up to the ball stud. but on the xxxnt its too short to reach the top ball stud that attaches to the sway bar. i thought of taking 2 long set screws like the ones that hold the brake on[wich i have 2 of] and threading rpm ball cups onto them to make a longer peice. i tried making one and its long enough. should i put it on or try to find a longer lil bar?

[stefcold]

I just saw the video for the Losi LST. Hum...... I want one, any of you guys saw a prototype at the track. I seem to remember someone talking about a Losi MT a couple of months back.

Stef...

[Got Speed]

stefcold- Where did you see the vid at? There were some rumors of Losi drivers testing out a mystery MT.

[cabbynate]

You can see it on Losi's web site. As much as I don't like MT's I am starting to Like AE's and the LMT.

Also I talked to Drake this weekend and He said that yes it was an OS carb on his Nova in the Feb issue of RCCA. He said that when they sent him the motors that they all had slide carbs so he just put in the OS carb since he had some from when he ran Picco's. He said he never ran Picco carbs. OS carbs where easier to tune.

[stefcold]

GS: Everything is on the Losi site

http://www.teamlosi.com/kits/LST/index_main.htm

Stef...

[Got Speed]

Cool, thanks cabbynate and stefcold

[iam_markm]

Hello everyone,

I was wondering if anyone drives their truck on grass. I've been using the step-pins that came with my truck and they are pretty good. But I was wondering if anyone has had success with any other tires.

[cabbynate]

I would think steps would be your best bet for running on grass.;)

[fly boygt]

iam- try a set of the proline lugnut tires. They are like a step pin but the wear is less and the lugs themselves are larger and give better traction. Those are your best bet, that and the step pin.

[losiguy1090]

iam_markm, losi makes some tires that looks like mt tires. theyre called masher or sumting like that, i dont remember.

[ross]

Depends what grass your running on, if your on short dry grass then the standard tyres should do you fine however if your on wet grass its a completly different story. I have always found the standard Traxxas Rustler rear tyres to work great on wet grass and then using either Losi Smashers or Schumacher Staggered ribs on the front. :cool:

[iam_markm]

I run on short dry grass, so I think i'm gonna try out some proline lug nuts or gladiators, just to compare with the steps. Thanks for the help!

[LoSick]

hey losiguy1090. what kind of sway bar did you adapt to your xxxnt, the xxxt´s? how did it fit in the rear?

[losiguy1090]

no i used the xxx swaybar kit[part # adam drake gave me] and you know those little bars in the back that hook up the both the ball studs? theyre to small for the xxxnt. well i looked through my tool box and i had 2 long set screws[ones that hold the brake on] and i threaded 2 rpm ball cups on to each set screw and not only is it tall enough but i have adjustment. i just need to replace one of the sliver ball cups that hooks up to the sway bar cuz its faulty and it wont go on straight.

o yeah, i had those set screws because i took them off when i replaced the screws in my car.

[stefcold]

Can you post a pic of this sway bar , I would like to try one.

Stef...

[losiguy1090]

ill get a pic as soon as i get my new ball stud and i can mount it. ill also take a pic of the front if you want.

[Saboteur]

Surely...cold+plastic parts+curb=destruction. I broke part A-4160...mainly the steering brace and I cracked the front bulkhead. :( Atleast my Mach.15 ran pretty good though..except the p/s was slipping until I heated the engine. Then it started popping more. Before it was only like one pop per tug, then the p/s felt as if I had too much oil on the oneway bearing. Going to the LHS tomorrow for repairs as well as other things for my other rides. Still lusting away for an 8th scale buggy though. Big, awesome, powerful and tough. :) Too bad my LHS wont get any till next week since its electric season. They are expensive so I'll stay with my NT and stock up on some parts. Also pick up some 35wt shock fluild for it. It seems although the weather has gone up into the 40s its still quite chilly out..mainly due to the wind. If the air was still it would feel a lot warmer. Rcing for my club will soon start. Mainly gonna hit the asphalt seen in the image below or go to the baseball field. BTW I'll try to get some lundsford Titanium turnbuckles while I'm at it for the NT, better steering servo and another AA holder for my rx. The JR's are smaller than the Futaba's. Fits better in my nitro sedan. :)

[xdamxincx]

ok i have read about diffs till i couldnt take any more....
so i ask u guys to just tell me what i am searching for..

i know how to tighten the dif and rebuild it ...

now i dont understand why it needs to be tighten to a certian point in relation to the slipper.....

what happens if its too loose .. will this harm the diff ? and what will happen with performance...

and if its too tight will it hurt anything and again what about the performance...

what am i trying to acheive by adjusting this dam thing !!!!!!!!

thanks for your input ....

[ross]

Originally posted by xdamxincx
ok i have read about diffs till i couldnt take any more....
so i ask u guys to just tell me what i am searching for..

i know how to tighten the dif and rebuild it ...

now i dont understand why it needs to be tighten to a certian point in relation to the slipper.....

what happens if its too loose .. will this harm the diff ? and what will happen with performance...

and if its too tight will it hurt anything and again what about the performance...

what am i trying to acheive by adjusting this dam thing !!!!!!!!

thanks for your input ....

My understanding is:

If its loose - The outdrives & rings will just spin agaisnt the balls and cause them to heat up eventually melting the gear to the balls and your truck goes nowhere! This has happened to me a few times but never on the XXXNT. I think also a loose diff can cause your back end to spin out when cornering at high speed.

If its to tight - Your truck wont corner very well, it will want to carry on in a straight line because the rear wheels can't move at independant speeds going through the corner.

When holding the the left rear wheel and spur gear and then turning the right wheel you want to get it so your diff so that the right wheel can turn but with alot of effort! But test this the slipper must be fully tight, once the diff is adjusted properly loosen the slipper off to your liking but make sure once you have done this when you do the test above the slipper slips before the diff.

I only have a basic understanding on diffs and so far I havent had any problems with mine, I just check its tight and nice and smooth after every race.

[losiguy1090]

if its too loose the diff will slip and youll blow through diffs faster than you can think about it. i like to run my diff at 1/8 from locked. that way its tight but it still corners very well. i was running at 1/2 from locked and occasionally i would hear a slip so i tightened it up a lil more. i like to have it tight enough so that it doesnt ever slip. cuz with 1/2 from locked it was very smooth but it would slip 1 to 3 times out of 10 when coming out of a corner. to see if my diff is slipping i like to go to a quiet place where i can hear my car[like my house] and ill do a few tests. ill sit right behind the car and pin the throttle and see if it slips and ill stand close and listen closely when its coming out of the turns.

[Got Speed]

If you diff is not tightened the diff gear and balls will spin real fast while the rings and outdrives are not moving or are moving slowly. The friction causes enough heat to melt the diff gear. The slipper is designed to slip when the drivetrain comes under above normal load(on-power landings for example). So the slipper is just a guard or cusion for the drivetrain. It should not slip when you give the engine full throttle from a standstill. So if the slipper slips then the diff dosn't take the hit. When the diff slips it heats up and can melt the gear. So the diff should never slip it's only purpose is to let one wheel travel faster than the other through corners. The slipper is for just that. To take the extra load on the drivetrain.

[dkj-M3]

Ha, finally got a pic of my truck.

testing
http://ohionitro.com/images/KJstruck.JPG

[Got Speed]

dkj-M3- Nice looking body. :)

[losiguy1090]

yeah that is very nice, any chassis shots?

[Saboteur]

Nice body. Like losi said, where's the chassis shots? :). Well my slippage for the pullstart is over. Got the parts I needed to repair my NT and its ready for action. I also picked up a Futaba 3PDF-X. The 8th scale buggy is still on the lust list( just an Ofna MBX) but I'd rather pimp out my NT with alum arms and other options like I saw in RC Driver.:)

[xdamxincx]

so if the diff gear is loose i will spin out in the corners ??
is this true ??
because i am experiencing plenty of this ..

also do any of you guys using the drake or hodges set up sheets that are displayed on the losi site ?

[losiguy1090]

i use adam drakes the dirt standard setup with a few tweaks of my own. i run 40 wt oil all around and standard 56 pistons all around. and i usually run a sway bar, especially on clay tracks.

and your truck can be spinning out for other reasons. worn tires, loose dirt, wrong tires. try using my tests above to see if your diff is slipping.

[dkj-M3]

A loose diff will work the best to a point as long as it doesn't slip, BUT it will also burn up/melt the diff gear if it slips. Too tight of a diff will cause you to spin out badly. You just have to find that sweet spot. If you can, try & see if the fast guys at the track will let you feel how tight/loose there diff is. I set my diff by feel & usually set the slipper as tight as possible, but it still slips & my diff last about 6months. I rebuild for for big races or when the outdrives are worn. I also run on tracks with very good traction tho.

I run Drakes set-up everywhere, just changed the front oil & piston to 27.5 & black/57 piston to smooth out the steering a little.

Thx, The body & decals are complements of Skip/Tony from skipgear.com
chassi shots are coming.:)

[losiguy1090]

i thought they were from skipgear.

[Saboteur]

Who mades a good skidplate or front bumper for the NT? Thinking of purchasing one along with Ti Turnbuckles for my Sport NT. Anyone running the Drake pipe with the stock Mach .15? The engine seems to work in harmony with the stock pipe but I never seen it with a different one. Its pretty fast the way I tuned it.

[speedydave]

RPM makes a wide front bumper for the XXX/XXXT/XXXNT.

[losiguy1090]

i have the rpm front bumper and its awsome. it doesnt look the greatest but it save aarms.;)

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- I made one out of some steel I had. Heavy but it beats buying the plastic ones. The weight dosn't really concern me much. On such a light truck a little extra weight just helps it keep planted. I may switch back to the plastic but I've had no problems with it. I really don't like the RPM bumper myself. I've heard good and bad but it puts alot more stress on the bulkhead than the stock plate does.

Has anyone used the CVEC pipe and tested the different settings. My track dosn't mind so i'm thinking of getting it just to experiment with. How much of a difference do the adjustments make? Does it change the powerband as much as a new pipe?

Thanks

[kekekek]

Anyone know what size hex the screws are on the bottom of the chassis? what about the ones that connect the fuel tank to the upper deck? im thinkin about buying some nice hex drivers because the ones i have now arent cutting it...thanks for the help

[Tim'sLosi]

http://tier1motorsports.com/products.html

Those guys have a nice looking one. I am going to use the Drake pipe with the mach15 but haven't finished the truck yet. I will let you know when I do. TT

Originally posted by Saboteur
Who mades a good skidplate or front bumper for the NT? Thinking of purchasing one along with Ti Turnbuckles for my Sport NT. Anyone running the Drake pipe with the stock Mach .15? The engine seems to work in harmony with the stock pipe but I never seen it with a different one. Its pretty fast the way I tuned it.

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by kekekek
Anyone know what size hex the screws are on the bottom of the chassis? what about the ones that connect the fuel tank to the upper deck? im thinkin about buying some nice hex drivers because the ones i have now arent cutting it...thanks for the help

you need 1/16, 3/32, 5/64 & .050

[kekekek]

i cant really afford all 4 right now, what are the ones that i specified :) thanks for the help

[dkj-M3]

1/16, 3/32

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by Tim'sLosi
http://tier1motorsports.com/products.html

Those guys have a nice looking one. I am going to use the Drake pipe with the mach15 but haven't finished the truck yet. I will let you know when I do. TT

Cool. I'll wait for your review of that.:)

Got Speed- So the RPM plastic bumper puts more stress than a metal skid plate? Hmmm. I'll check those out when I go to my LHS. I'd like something to protect the front A arms allright and something that would sorta let my truck hop the small curbs instead of slamming right into it.

[xdamxincx]

where can i buy a sway bar ??

has anyone had problems with the new drake kit shocks? i just built them and they leak out the shaft end both front and back shocks?

another thing what do u guys think about the shock socks ?

and i have a motor that is threaded but where the collet wont fit on it because it is more square than round... looks like a shaft used on single speed touring cars..how do i get this to work with my truck ?

[dkj-M3]

use some AE green slim inside the shock cartridge, stuff it in there. the socks are good for keeping your shafts clean.

What type of engine is it, did the collet come with the engine.

[tpirocz]

does anyone make a metal pitman arm? i keep striping the splines out of the stock ones...altho then im sure i would strip the off of the servo. any suggestions that i can try to keep it on there. after about 5 minutes of driving i lose all steering bacause of it.

also whick is a better part...the graphite towers/arms or the aluminum ones posted above?

thanks

[dkj-M3]

Check & make sure you have the right spline on, epa is set correct & the servo saver is not too tight.

[dkj-M3]

the bmx track is gone, its all RC's now.:D


http://www.paranormals.com/temp3/xdome022204/Desktop-Images/6.jpg

http://www.paranormals.com/temp3/xdome022204/Desktop-Images/2.jpg

[Got Speed]

kekekek- The 1/16 and 3/32 will be the ones you use the most anyway. The others only have a couple of screws in that size.

Saboteur- If you hit something with the nose down alot if has a lot more leverage against the bulkhead screws. My bulkhead's threads stripped within 2 tanks of the time I put it on. I could have just been a coincidence but it does still put more stress on the bulkhead because of how much it sticks out there.

xdamxincx- Not me. The Drake shocks are some of the nicest 1/10 truck shocks out there. If you build them right with both O-rings and make sure you get the clip snapped in right. Also make sure you used the thrust bearing grease for the O-rings. If you did all that and they still don't work call Losi.

I've been meaning to get some of those shock socks for a while now. They will make your seals and shock shafts last longer. So for only $10 they are worth it IMO. Keep your shocks clean and make them last longer.

What kind of engine is it? If it is a Picco engine you have to get a Picco collet because they are a little different size from everybody else's.

tpirocz- They do make metal servo arms. You shouldn't be stripping the servo arm though. I've never stripped one. Make sure your servo saver is not too tight. Here are the advantages and dissadvantages to alum/graphite/plastic.

Aluminum- Stronger, but heavier, more expensive, and it will still bend. Good if you are just playing around and don't mind spending the money.

Plastic- Lighter than aluminum, least expensive, and it can still take some hard hits before it will break. Good for racing or playing around and if you plan to do big jumps much less expensive than alum.

Graphite- Lightest and stiffest, more expensive than plastic and less expensive than aluminum. This will break a little easier than plastic(in certaint conditions) or aluminum. This is best for racing if you don't crash all the time.

[Got Speed]

dkj-M3- That's a sweet track. I wish my track was like that, lol.

[dkj-M3]

it's thx to Steve King one of the best track builders in the mid west, It was a BMX track. He/we built in in 1 day, He didn't even draw anything on paper, just started dumping dirt everywhere.lol

here are more pics:

http://www.paranormals.com/temp3/xdome022204/

[losiguy1090]

dkj, how many laps do you guys get in in a half hour main? 2:p

and reguarding the shocks, get the MIP o-rings.

[LoSick]

Got Speed, any names that manufacture shock socks for the nt sport? Tried ofna ones but are too wide!

[rhcsavage21]

dose anyone know of a backplate i can use to put on my mach .15
i have a starter box and want to get that pull start off of there becuse it dose not work and i don't feel like geting a new one.
so all the help i can get would be great thank you.

[Got Speed]

LoSick- Search ebay for shock socks they are alot cheaper than buying them from the manufacturer. Here is one for an example: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3176609625&category=44028

rhcsavage21- They make a non-pull start back plate for it. You don't have to take the pull start off to use the starter box. It just improves performance(probably not enough to notice though)

[rhcsavage21]

i know i don't have to take it off it just gets anyoing. having something there that dose nothing but take up space.
if you could give me a part noumber that would be great.
thanks

[rhcsavage21]

is this is?

http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Detail.aspx?ProductID=DYN6534

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by losiguy1090
dkj, how many laps do you guys get in in a half hour main? 2:p

and reguarding the shocks, get the MIP o-rings.


actually the track flows so well, I was tuning 26sec laps



socks for shocks (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=SOKHD0001&showbig=6809)

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by rhcsavage21
i know i don't have to take it off it just gets anyoing. having something there that dose nothing but take up space.
if you could give me a part noumber that would be great.
thanks

any help would be nice.

[Got Speed]

rhcsavage21- I just looked at www.horizonhobby.com . They distrubute Losi who uses the Mach .15 in the RTRs so I would expect them to have it. I looked through their parts list and all they have listed is the pull start back plate. I'd talk to your LHS and see if they could order it or something if they can find it.

[rhcsavage21]

ok. i did find the .12 spd non p/s back plate would that work????

[Got Speed]

If your LHS has it I guess you could see if it fits perfectly. Otherwise I wouldn't try mixing parts like that.

[rhcsavage21]

ok i emailed both losi and dynamite about it no anwsers yet.

[xdamxincx]

is it possible to find a square inner collet so i can use a diff engine that has the square shaft before the threads.

[Saboteur]

Lets see a vote. Who prefer's the RPM plastic bumper over a metal skid plate? Gonna pay another visit to the LHS again soon.

[losiguy1090]

rpm bumper because itll give a lil.

[Got Speed]

xdamxincx- Could you get a picture of your crankshaft so we can see what your talking about? That would make it much easier for us to help you.

Saboteur- Stock or metal.

[dkj-M3]

stock plastic;)

[losiguy1090]

hes talking about a skid plate.

[Got Speed]

Yeah, that's what I'm talking about.

[losiguy1090]

why do you like the stock skid plate?

[LoSick]

rpm´s saves your front arms, broke 2 arms before I began using it. 1 year and so far no stress on the bulkhead. plastic as good speed wrote, best for bashing and abuse. for the rear I use strong zip ties connecting the arms to the pins, and one that ties the pivot block to the chassis. this one goes in the space between the battery holder and the chassis. this extra security allowed me to finish the race without going to the lhs. and depending on the track. Instead of using bushings in the shocks to lower the suspension I prefer zip ties. that way to you can alter the ride height specially when racing in the parking lot. will post a pic soon!

[Got Speed]

Like I said. In my case it could have just been a coinidence but it does put a lot more stress than the stock peice will on the bulkhead. As for the arms. Most of the time you arn't going to hit something head on. I agree it has it's advantages but IMHO I just prefer the plastic of the metal if weight is no problem(since it won't wear out).

[rhcsavage21]

ok it has been a few days know. dose anyone else know if there is one???????:(

[dkj-M3]

I like the look of the black plastic & I have a titanium front pivot block, so I don't need any more weight up front, I haven't had any problems with the stock peice since I put longer 7/8 screws on the 2 bottom most holes. & I use button head screws so the bumper doesn't pull over the head of the screw on a bad nose dive.

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by rhcsavage21
ok it has been a few days know. dose anyone else know if there is one???????:(

A lot of my buddies have them, but they make there own. They make them so they bend over the front of the bulkhead. So when they nosedive it doesn't dig in.

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
A lot of my buddies have them, but they make there own. They make them so they bend over the front of the bulkhead. So when they nosedive it doesn't dig in.
i was talking about a non p/s back plate for a mach .15

[Got Speed]

rhcsavage21- Call Losi up. He should be able to tell you.

[Tim'sLosi]

Yea, talk to Bill in customer service.

[Saboteur]

Well I got the RPM today when I went to my LHS. He said the plastic gives a little while the metal puts more stress on the car. I've tested the new bumper and it seems to work. With the stock bumper I cant even jump a 1" curb. How pathetic :mad: . I certainly wasnt impressed. I'm bringing an R/C tomorrow to school for our meeting of the R/C Club and debating on what to bring.

[Got Speed]

The metal or stock plastic bumpers are rarely used as bumpers. Either the wheel hits of it is more of a skidplate. As a skidplate flexibiltiy dosn't really matter. One thing I hate about plastic is that the holes get punched out. I really don't worry too much about the weight in the front. It's the only part that adds weight in the front and it helps keep my front wheels down. hehe JMO

Nobody has had experience with the CVEC pipe? Anybody have a suggestion on a good torque pipe?

[cabbynate]

Got Speed,
Chech this out: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=159250

[Got Speed]

Thanks, I've messed with just about everything but pipes. lol for the obvious reason, it costs more. hehe. I really want to play around with some though. My track has good traction(hard to control once you break traction, though) and is fairly tight for nitro so I'm looking for a good torque pipe. I'm looking at nitroreview.com too.

[rhcsavage21]

thanks for the help. i got a e-mail back from dynamite and they said the .12spd non p/s back plate works perfectly.
thanks for the help

[Got Speed]

rhcsavage21- Cool, the mach engines are probably made by them anyway.

[losiguy1090]

they are made by them.

[speedydave]

Those of you with Drakes, or with Ti Nitride shock shafts, how long did the Ti Nitride coating last for you? 3 of my 4 shocks are fine, but the left rear shock shaft has about 2/3 of the coating left, after only 5 tanks of running the truck. I assume the reason the left rear is going faster than the others is because it's directly in the path of the exhaust, but I would expect it to last longer than 5 tanks! Here's what it looks like now, after 5 tanks of running, all on the track:

[losiguy1090]

your probably right, its probably from being right behind the pipe. but ive heard that the coating doesnt last very long. i prefer the stock shock shafts.

[Saboteur]

Well the warmer weather will start during the weekends and we will start our bashing season next week. I'm also going to bring my vehicles (one nitro and one electric) into physics class for a lil demonstration since we have done the topic on pressure,force, and now on static electricity and flowing of electrons. Anyway, anyone gettin any big air with their NT? I'm wondering will the stock shocks on my sport NT with 30wt trinity shock fluid will suit fine? Handling is fine but I'm just thinking of it bottoming out on asphalt on a jump...maybe getting 5ft of air or so.

[Got Speed]

speedydave- I don't know exactly how long mine lasted but they lasted a lot longer than 5 tanks. You could get some of those shock socks. I've been meaning to get some for months now but havn't. Should make the shocks last alot longer.

[speedydave]

I had shock socks, but they effect the way the spring compresses (I know that it at least affects how far the spring can compress).

[dkj-M3]

i don't think losi accounted for the exhaust of fuel powered trucks. They last a long time on the electric truck.

I've been running for a little over a year & my fronts have not worn the coating off. I'm sure the shock socks will fix the wear problem.

[ross]

speedydave,
Yes the ti nitride does eventually wear off, but it shouldnt happen that fast. You might want to check the internals of the shock because we found that when the coating does wear off it leaves deposits in the shock body. Also while you have the shock apart check everything because it might have been that for whatever reason the shock was put together wrong so something was rubbing agaisnt the shock shaft causing the coating to wear off. Just a thought.

[losiguy1090]

lunsford should make some titanium shock shafts for cars.

[cave]

speedydave
I got many gallons thru my Drake and my coated shocks dont show that much wear. Is your oil clean in the shock body? Thats alot of wear for that many gallons. What surface do run on? man thats alot of wear & tear.
cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Hey, havn't seen you around for quite a while. Are you still racing at SRS?

[cave]

Hey GS. Ive been real busy at work lately. Friday I worked from 5am till 11.:30pm last night. We are very busy. Tony and I are racing at that new track in Tempe. Its pretty big. Its an 8th scale track. Real close to us. Kinda of a drive and a half for you. I just got home from work. When you racing? Where? I still need a new charger. MRC took a dive. Button dont work. Im using my old school charger. I think its older than you. Later GS

cave

[losiguy1090]

well i finally made it out to the track today for practice. was having trouble with the savage but xxxnt ran awesome. but at the end of the back straight, i hit the brakes to late coming into the sweeper, tried to slide to counter it and my left front wheel hit the wall when i was going about 3/4 throttle. snapped my left front a-arm in 3 places:eek: :o it was a not so pleasant sound needless to say. there was 3 1/8 scale buggies running at the same time but i still heard it snap. luckilly this happened 15 min before my dad picked me back up so i got in plenty of driving.

[Got Speed]

cave- That's some long hours. That's what happened to my MRC charger. I raced at SRS today. I just bought another 1/8th scale and a Novarossi Top P5 for it. I'm thinking about going out to that track probably next month.

[cave]

Racing starts at 1pm today Sunday. I guess this is the 1st day Hobby Action has held a race on there outside track. From what I can see the track is huge but the city wont allow a tall driverstand. the track is flat so trying to navigate on the farthest hairpined whoopties are gunna be tough. We suggested that they slant the track but they arent to receptive to suggestions. Oh well its alot closer than SRS. I havnt worked sundays to much so I may be able to race more.

cave

[speedydave]

Originally posted by cave
Is your oil clean in the shock body? Thats alot of wear for that many gallons. What surface do run on?

The shock oil was new. Right now we're running on damp dirt/black clay mix. I raced yesterday, and more of the coating from the "front" of the shaft (when on the truck) on the left rear shock is gone, so I'm almost positive it's because of the exhaust.

[Got Speed]

cave- Do they race just sundays or other days too? Do they have a parts store?

speedydave- Were you running rich? If so, maybe the fuel ate it away more than normal if it were raw fuel?

[speedydave]

A little bit, but it wasn't spitting raw fuel out or anything. We race outdoors, and it was 60* yesterday (high of 61*), and my engine was running right around 210. Solid trail of blue smoke, but definitely not "too rich," and definitely no raw fuel coming out of the pipe.

[cave]

GS That new track was pretty cool. The city of Tempe accuaully designed the track. The next track willl be designed by Hobby Action. At first I got lectured twice about running my truck in the parking lot. No rules posted. Then I got told I couldnt start my truck up unless the guy who runs the races says its ok. This was 2 hours before the race. Then He calmed down and said we could start our trucks up just dont run them on the ground in the parking lot. I understand all that.
Track is nice. people are all laid back. To my surprise, the guy who runs the races isnt all that bad. He's a nitro guy. Nitro ruled the races. All in all it was fun. Theyy said they wouldnt wait for you when it was time for your race but they did. Stilll alittle bit unorganized. The system the run got mixed up. I got third in the A main. Keith JR got 1st. It was alot of fun and Yes they have a great store. Once they get thier stuff together its going to be a real dent in SRS. I never even seen some of the 8th scales that I saw like the Monster pilot. Its seams to be a getter buy than the Traxxas T maxx hands down. You gotta race here soon.

cave

[xdamxincx]

hello everyone .... i was wondering where can i buy aluminum front hubs ?

[dkj-M3]

go to horizons site & do a search

[xdamxincx]

Originally posted by xdamxincx
hello everyone .... i was wondering where can i buy aluminum front hubs ?


its other names would be the spindle or steering blocks...

[Got Speed]

cave- I really want to get out there and try it. Are they open any other days than sunday? Yeah the MP or Dominator are deffinately better racers. BTW: I no longer have my T-Maxx I sold it and decided to get another 1/8scale. Are these guys in the phone book yet? Maybe I'll see you out there in the next couple of weeks.

speedydave- Hmm. That's weird. The only other thing I could think of would be your coupler has a hole and fuel/oil are coming from it and spraying on the shock shaft.

[losiguy1090]

.

[speedydave]

GS- If that were the case, there would be some buildup around the coupler and possibly on the header, but nothing's there. I'm not really worried about it any more, though. The shock is still smooth, so as long as it's still smooth, it really doesn't matter to me.

[Got Speed]

speedydave- Oh, ok. One last idea though. Maybe the shock seals are bad and the oil from the exhuast is getting into the shock oil so that part of the shock shaft is always making contact with the fuel/oil.

[speedydave]

Hmm...maybe. I'm rebuilding my rear shocks tonight, so I'll check the oil and let you know then.

[cave]

GS, Dont know if there in the yellow book yet. Action Hobby is the name I think. It was fun racing there. The track is still a bit less than SRS but The city of Tempe designed it. The next track will be made by the hobby shop. which is awesome for parts for our Losies. Spec tires and everything in between. The guy there is kinda goofy but in time he may turn out to be OK. Ill be in southern AZ at my rental, I need to rent it out again and next week I'll be in Los angeles on bussiness. I hate flying! see ya soon GS

cave

[ross]

Anyone know where I can find a list of the shock springs for XXXNT? Ive looked in the back of my manual but it only seems to list red.

Thanks.

[Got Speed]

ross-

Gray- 1.6
White- 1.8
Yellow- 2.0
Pink- 2.3
Red- 2.6
Orange- 2.9
Silver- 3.4
Green- 3.7
Blue- 4.1

[stefcold]

I'm running a Drake XXXNT with a '03 Fantom FR-12 (Side Exaust Rotary Carb).

I want to try a new pipe, the Drake pipe works well but I heard VERY good things about the Fantom Pipe.

Witch bring me to my question, what is the main difference between a single chamber and dual chamber pipe. I know one has more torque and the other more RPM. But witch one would you suggest for offroad racing. Our club track is pretty big, with 2 long straightway, but it has also a double and triple jump both coming out of a turn.

Here a picture of the track.

http://www.crcoracing.com/photos/track_small.jpg

Any comments are welcome,

Stef...

[losiguy1090]

dual=top end
single=bottom end

for that track id say the dual chamber.

[Got Speed]

stefcold-Do you live in Europe? That looks like a European track.
A top end pipe would be the best without a doubt.

[Saboteur]

Cool track.:) I'd also vote for a top end pipe as well.

[losiguy1090]

if i raced on a track like that, id have an exscuse to get a sirio:D

[LoSick]

ross, rctrix has the same options as losi but with the option of your color up to 30% of your stock red ones. (silver).
anyone knows is there is some page updated where you can find which engines are legal for racing as well as the pipes?

[LoSick]

anyone has tried this tsais pipe?looks cool

[losiguy1090]

thats a tmaxx pipe. heard it dont work that great.

[Got Speed]

Yeah, from what I've heard and just from the looks all it is for is looks and maybe sound.

[LoSick]

Heard it is designed for bottom end. looks nice tough!
I´m thinking of getting a new head for performance and customizing! got a os 15cvr with 10er, a drake pipe, a 20t bell and my track is huge and fast.
options so far are
the golden horizons turbo, duratrax stage 2, os hyper heads turbo and non turbo? if a turbo how about increase in performance, will it have more top or bottom gain. running on 20 nitro 16 oil.

[Got Speed]

LoSick- A different head will not increase performance.

[LoSick]

Thanks tough! perhaps a bigger head will allow for more cooling and that´s it

[Got Speed]

How cool does it run now? If it runs 220 or so then I wouldn't get a cooling head. If you run it at say 240 or more then maybe but if it runs 220 and you get a cooling head that cools better you may cool it too much.

[LoSick]

Runs fine at 220! but what if want to use racing fuel with 12% oil to achieve higher performance but with a hotter engine. in that case might a bigger cooling head help to stay in the 220 range?maybe right

[Got Speed]

LoSick- I would run it with the different fuel first. If the temps really do go up when you use a different fuel or run it differently then maybe get the cooling head. If you do though. Don't make the mistake most people do and think they can lean it back out to run at the temp it used to. You probably know this but just in case. :)

[LoSick]

Yep, gotta try first running the fuel with less oil. thanks tough

[icyunvmyrc]

Hey whats up, Ive got that age old problem with my xxx-nt differential, Its the diff adj nut that keeps breaking. Ive tried so many different things to fix it and cant figure out what the problem is. Ive used the washer method #2909 and the spring #2910. I just cant get the differential tight enough to run without it breaking before its tight enough. Ive gone through 8 or more diff bolts in the last 2 weeks trying to fix. Ive read my manual, Ive read the drake manual and found nothing I was doing wrong as far as assembly goes. Has anyone ever had this problem or know what it might be? And yes I tighten it in increments, I probably tighten it 12-15 times before it finally breaks the screw.
Carl

[losiguy1090]

get the losi one peice diff nut carrier. i have it and its awesome. impossible to break. just last night i locked my diff and reset my diff settings and it tightened up just fine. if your trying to set your diff i like mine at 1/4 out from locked. some like it more but i find it slips too much at those settings.

[Got Speed]

Are you trying to lock the diff down? If so that will break it. Are you cross threading the nut? Try one of the one-peice nuts(the plastic peice and nut are combined). Tighten it a little at a time and check how tight the diff is each time. Like in the book hold one tire in one hand and the spur gear and then turn the other tire. The slipper plates should turn. If they don't then either you diff is too loose or you slipper is too tight. The slipper does not need to be very tight. Only tight enough so that it dosn't slip under hard acceleration. Once your slipper is adjusted to where it feels about right then tighten your diff. Tighten it untill the slipper slips and then another 1/16-1/8 turn with the spring or 1/32-1/16 with the washers. As you can see the spring is a little more forgiving with adjustments.

[icyunvmyrc]

Hey thanks for the reply's but thats not it. I mean I WRENCH DOWN HARD on the left tire when tightening it. The best I have yet to come up with is giving it 1/2 throttle before it slips. I have used the one peice nuts a couple times but its always the screw that breaks, not the nut. I ordered 5 more diff adj screws that should be in monday but Im sure its gonna be the same thing.

I know something is definitely wrong because Ill tighten the screw, run it and itll be slippin with giving it hardly any gas, then Ill come back to tighten it some more and before I can even tighten it 1/16 of a turn it snaps. I am absolutely positive I have assembled it correctly, I have changed out everything in that assembly except for the washers that press up against the diff. gear. And I know its not the slipper or the clutch becuase the spur gear always spins. Ill probably just end up buying a new one off ebay or something.
Im still up for Ideas on how to fix it though, if anyone has some. Thanks

[Got Speed]

icyunvmyrc- Is it adjusted right to begin with and getting out of adjustment or is it never adjusted right in the first place? Are you sure you have the right balls in the right spots(not the diff balls in the thrust and not the thrust in the diff gear)? If so that could make it do that. You sure you arn't cross threading it? You shouldn't have to turn the one of the tires really hard when doing the diff test. It should turn with a little effort but you should have to turn it really hard to get it to turn. If you do then your diff and/or slipper is way to tight.

[dkj-M3]

are you sure it's not the slipper, slipping. You should not have to tighten the diff that tight, make sure you build it just as the manual says.

[icyunvmyrc]

gotspeed- The diff. is never tight to begin with, its just slips no matter how hard I tighten it. You might be right about the balls being in the wrong places but Im pretty sure theyre corrct. Im not sure what you meant by this though

"It should turn with a little effort but you should have to turn it really hard to get it to turn. If you do then your diff and/or slipper is way to tight"

dkj-m3- Ya I built it correctly and no its not the slipper, the spur gear turns.

[Got Speed]

icyunvmyrc- Sorry, I meant to say shouldn't instead of should. Are you sure you have your thrust assembly in the diff?

[icyunvmyrc]

Gotspeed- I think there is a slim chance you may be right about the balls in the differential being the wrong ones. I really hope your right though.
I think I might have the wrong size ones in there but probably not cuz they seem to fit correctly. When I got those balls I also got 2 diff washers in the package but they didnt fit. They were from losi and said xxx on the package though. Ill see if that works.
Thanks

[Got Speed]

The smaller balls go in the thrust assembly and the larger ones in the diff gear.

[losiguy1090]

make sure you put the right greases in the right places. also make sure your slippers not too tight. should be about 5 turns out.

make sure when you check the diff you leave the slipper and make sure the slipper plates turn. if the slipper plates turn then your diff is tight enough. if you dont have the one peice diff nut carrier, you should get it.

[dkj-M3]

when it says xxx, it could mean the 2wd buggy, some parts are the same some parts are not.

They are part# A-3099 for the thrust balls & washers.
& part# A-2909 for the diff screw & nut. The xxx buggy diff screw is not the same size as the trucks.

[icyunvmyrc]

Broke another one. Man this is some crap. Who here wants to sell me an assembly that is working? Everything between and including the outdrives, not the other gears or the case. Just an assembled and in working order differential assembly. Just gimme a decent price and Ill take it.
hiperman164@hotmail.com

Thanks for all the help even If I cant put it all to use.

[Got Speed]

icyunvmyrc-YGM

[LoSick]

Any pick from the sway bar set on the xxx nt?

[losiguy1090]

i got a pic of mine but my card reader is acting up, ill try a lil later.

[xdamxincx]

Originally posted by icyunvmyrc
Broke another one. Man this is some crap. Who here wants to sell me an assembly that is working? Everything between and including the outdrives, not the other gears or the case. Just an assembled and in working order differential assembly. Just gimme a decent price and Ill take it.
hiperman164@hotmail.com

Thanks for all the help even If I cant put it all to use.
Sounds to me like you have a stripped gear inside the diff because i think your slipage is not getting better when you tighten the diff. This happened to me. my main diff gear it was melted and it stripped the compound gear and i counldn't tell it was stripped by looking at it. I had to remove it to see the teeth were mushed just a little on the compound gear.

[rhcsavage21]

can you put a sg crank in to the xxx-nt?


thanks,

Rick

[dkj-M3]

rhcsavage21- no

[losiguy1090]

like he said, no. threaded shafts only.

[MikeWz]

Well guys...I'm back (sorta) after a long break. I still need a 5mm bolt or a shaft for my STUPID MT12 (cave man...I got your back). I also need a 12V gel Cell and charger :( . It's getting to be season again and I REFUSE to miss another season.

[stefcold]

Thanks for all the replies,

BTW the track pictured in the previous page isn't from Europe. It's in Canada, actually 5 min from Ottawa.

Now for the bumper, I tried the RPM one and took it off after 2 heat. My truck was nose diving alot, and on top of that, the bumper would hit the ground when landing a jump and stop all momemtum, greating a 'pothole' in the process.

Now I'm waiting for these to arrive,
http://i9.ebayimg.com/02/i/01/29/09/d2_1.JPG

I think they will be a decent upgrade, pretty inexpensive ($10). The plastic one from the kit is not very tough.

Stef...

[losiguy1090]

looks like a nice skidplate. i too took off my rpm bumper cuz it kept digging in.

[Got Speed]

stefcold- I made one almost exactly like that out of a peice of steel. It works great never had a problem with it.

[ross]

Cant see that bumper staying that shiney for any amount of tiem though!

[dkj-M3]

Do you know how far a good track is from Glendale,AZ?? My bro-in law lives there. I may come to visit this summer.

[Got Speed]

ross- Lucky for me, mine didn't start out shiny so I have nothing to worrry about.

dkj-M3- There is RC Sports Manai at 35th Ave. and Osborn which is asphalt oval and dirt oval with a very small off-road course(not worth the time IMO), there is nitro nutz raceway at about 183rd ave. and cotton lane(pretty nice 1/8 scale track with no parts store from what I've heard but I've never been there), and then there is Scottsdale RC Speedway which is where I go that is at Scottsdale Rd and Thomas(nice medium sized track with a good parts store and a large turnout of racers).

[tr918]

Stefcold- Where did you order that bumper from? I am currently having the same issue with my rpm bumper.

[Got Speed]

tr918- Look on ebay, they have them on there.

[cabbynate]

Is anyone using Ceramic nitride diff & thrust balls?

[xdamxincx]

i use the ceramic diff and thrust balls... dont buy from boca bearing tho ..they are jerks and unfriendly to the people that live in their own town... ... acer, i think is the name...they has a better ball and its cheaper ... o yea ,,,, its gunna run ya around 53 bucks for all of the balls... crazy expensive....more expensive than gold. this hobby is sometimes a joke when buying some of the higher end products....

[cabbynate]

i use the ceramic diff and thrust balls... dont buy from boca bearing tho ..they are jerks and unfriendly to the people that live in their own town... ... acer, i think is the name...they has a better ball and its cheaper ... o yea ,,,, its gunna run ya around 53 bucks for all of the balls... crazy expensive....more expensive than gold. this hobby is sometimes a joke when buying some of the higher end products....

Try here, http://ourworld.cs.com/hifi09/myhomepage/sale.html
I here these are good and a great deal!!!! :)
If someone thinks different please let me know!!!!!

[cabbynate]

Also is there a difference you can feel? I here the diffs are really smooth with them. I use steel balls grade 25 and my diffs in the NT out last the out drives so if these are even smoother with less friction I'm all about that. ;)

[xdamxincx]

Try here, http://ourworld.cs.com/hifi09/myhomepage/sale.html
I here these are good and a great deal!!!! :)
If someone thinks different please let me know!!!!!

well after some extensive research i talked to a guy named riggins... here is what he tells me ....

Hi Rich. What we know about Definitive Products is posted in most of the threads on the net. I am one of a group of racers who buy only two sizes of the grade three silicon nitride (ceramic) balls. These are 3/32 inch and 5/64 inch, which are the two most common diff and thrust sizes in the 10th scale off-road vehicles we run. We only purchase these two sizes since they are consistently available from certified lots. This means the balls from that specific lot have been tested by ITL’s (independent testing labs).

Definitive Products buys many different sizes and does not buy certified balls (they claim to but do not). So it is a gamble, the balls could be dependable or not, there is no real way to tell that we are aware of. When we tested balls from the major US manufacturers (all grade three, supposedly the best there is) most of them did not perform as well as carbide (some of them simply disintegrated during use). This is why we go to the trouble and expense of buying the two sizes we use the most from overseas in large certified lots.

Purchase info on these two sizes we buy and the thrust bearing EP grease we use is below. If they are not what you need I am afraid we can’t help (if you are unsure email your vehicle make/model and I should be able to run down the balls sizes it uses). We get inquiries frequently and have tested several non-certified brands over the years but have not found a consistent source for durable ceramic balls in other sizes. This is why we still run and recommend the best quality carbide or chrome balls if you need other sizes. They don’t offer the advantages ceramic does, but by sticking with them we don’t risk paying a premium price for inconsistent or inferior balls that may keep us from finishing races.

Have also attached a Diff Primer for off-road vehicles. If you are having diff durability or runtime issues with a ball type diff the Primer usually helps. It is geared toward off-road diffs but most of the info also applies to on-road as well. Thanks for the inquiry Richard. If there is anything else I can help with feel free to email. Thanks,

Bill

Ps. Nice ‘maro!



Ball Purchase Info:

* Silicon nitride grade three certified balls in both diff and thrust sizes (3/32 and 5/64 inch) are $1 each.

* The extreme pressure grease is $2.50 per syringe.

* Shipping for orders over $50.00 is free. If the total is less:

-----Domestic first class shipping is $2.50. We’ve shipped thousands of balls with
none lost or damaged by the USPS. If you are worried insurance can be added
to any package for for $2.00 or you can use Priority Mail to make the package
trackable.
-----Priority Mail is $3.65. Please note that we have found first class arrives just as
fast as Priority Mail except around Christmas.
-----Overnight shipping is also available at actual cost.
-----International shipping (via Global Priority Mail) is $6.00.

* Couple of things to consider when buying. With the Losi and Mugen thrust
bearings you have a choice when it comes to ball size. Seven 3/32 inch
balls or eight 5/64 inch balls can be used (most use seven of the larger
3/32 balls to reduce wear). The other item to consider is most racers pickup
two sets of thrust balls to use with each set of diff balls (since the
thrust bearing carries about twice the load the diff bearing does the thrust
balls wear about twice as fast regardless what type balls are used).

* Payment via Paypal: We have a personal account with Paypal so payment
with a debit or credit card is not available. Any other Paypal funding
source is fine, so payment can be sent from your PayPal balance, from a
Paypal eCheck, from a bank account that has been linked to your Paypal
account, etc. If you have a Paypal account and have not linked a bank
account sending an eCheck is the easiest way to fund the transfer. eChecks
draw the payment directly from your bank account just like a check. Feel
free to ask if you need help using this the first time. The Paypal address
to make the transfer to is: riggins@hotpop.com.

* You can also pay with a USPS money order to: Bill Riggins, 1646 Fieldgreen
Overlook, Stone Mountain, GA 30088. Please include the number of large
balls/small balls/grease syringes with the payment.

If you have any other questions feel free to email. Thanks,

Bill <riggins@hotpop.com>

.....i think will be purchasing from this guy .....

[cabbynate]

Well, I did order 2 sets of the 3/32" balls from Definitive Products so I will report on what I get And how they work. This other source is also very good to know. The price sure seems right.

[Got Speed]

JMO but I really don't think aftermarket balls are necessarry. All the sponsored drivers are running stock diffs. I know some people say that they can afford to rebuild them all the time. However, they still wouldn't use anything an inferior ball that might end their race. You can't expect a performance advantage and as far as wear my diff balls last me a long time. I could see possibly getting the larger thrust balls because the thrust does wear out significantly faster than the normal balls do. This is just my opinion but I think it is well-grounded.

Let us know how they are for you though.

[cabbynate]

JMO but I really don't think aftermarket balls are necessarry. All the sponsored drivers are running stock diffs. I know some people say that they can afford to rebuild them all the time. However, they still wouldn't use anything an inferior ball that might end their race. You can't expect a performance advantage and as far as wear my diff balls last me a long time. I could see possibly getting the larger thrust balls because the thrust does wear out significantly faster than the normal balls do. This is just my opinion but I think it is well-grounded.

Let us know how they are for you though.

I use 3/32" balls all the way around already. I'm really not looking for any advantages other than a smoother diff. The diffs I build are already really smooth and as I said above out last my out drives. I'm just experimenting with new things to keep things interesting. I will keep you all posted. ;)

[Laterilus]

xdamxincx, and anyone else interested, I HIGHLY recomend the ceramic diff balls you can buy from Bill Riggins. This guy is great and will answer any questions you have with in a day of emailing him. His 10-page write-up on diffs is very well written and offers tons of great information. I have now been using them in my NT for a month. The diff still feels like it did the day I put it together. No lie. It is extremely smooth and works flawlessly. I think the combination of the ceramic balls and the high-pressure thrust-bearing grease he sends you really does the trick. It doesn't get slung from the thrust bearing like the crappy stock white Losi grease does. I have been running in extremely dusty conditions, the type of conditions that trash my diff in one day, and couldn't believe my eyes when I've taken my diff apart and noticed that the thrust bearing has been completely sealed off from dirt by the high-pressure grease! The grease is actually still white!
I understand that maybe the pros don't need these different diff balls, but they also rebuild their diffs with brand new equipment on a daily basis. I personally don't have that kind of money. If you have had extreme diff problems with the crappy Losi diff like I have had, I strongly recomend getting ceramic diff balls. Hopefully soon Losi will make a new diff for the NT that is similar to the one in the BK2. Then I bet I could get a whole year of racing on it before a rebuild! :)

[Got Speed]

cabbynate- Yeah, let us know. Like I said I may not go for the diff balls but I am especially intrested in the thrust balls.

Laterilus- If you look in the latest RCCA they talked to Adam Drake about what he replaces before he races. He said he replaces the ball cups, shock cartridges, shock oil, and any part that is worn or cracked. He said he does not rebuild his diff before he races except before long A-Mains and even then only if the track was really rough on it in the qualifiers. Personally I don't think any thing is wrong at all with the Losi diff. It may be pickier about adjustments than AE diffs but it is not an inferior diff. My diff lasts me a long time. I occasionally replace the thrust just to get a fresh one in there and replace or flip the rings every 4 or 5 months. Otherwise the other stuff I replace as needed(which is pretty rare). When I replace the balls I usually replace the gear too since it can develop slop in the slots of the diff balls.

[cabbynate]

The only real problem I have with the Losi diff is it last me to long!!!!! :p
In all but the rear of my XXX-4, the XXX, XXX-T and XXX-NT diffs all out last the out drives. My out drives get notched long before the diff starts to feel crunchy. Most of the time I rebuild just for the heck of it. I think most people that have diff problems run there slipper to tight and diff to loose.
Maybe I should start selling Losi diffs on ebay?? :eek:

Na.

[Got Speed]

cabbynate- lol same here. I rebuild certain parts every once in a while whether it needs it or not. hehe, I thought about trying to sell assembled diffs but if I did there would be people with a locked slipper who would fry and blame me. lol

[cabbynate]

Got Speed,
You would have to send them a photo with every diff of what there slipper should look like when set close a turn + or -. :)
You could explain it to them all day but a photo is worth a thousand words.
(Especially for some fokes.) :)

[Got Speed]

Yeah, lol. I didn't think of that.

[speedydave]

You guys remember how my truck's fuel tank was cracked when I got it? Well, I finally found something to do with it...used one of my friend's CO2 handguns..wasn't even point blank, was from about a dozen feet back. And that was only one shot. :)

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=26995
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=26996
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=26997
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=26998
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=26999

Edit: aww, it's still censored...replace the asterisks with r c p i c s (w/o the spaces).

[LoSick]

need a smaller than 51 spur or bigger than 20 bell for the nt. any manufacturer known?

[Got Speed]

I don't know of any different spur gears but I've heard of people getting as high as 22T clutch bells. Sorry I don't know where though.

[MBX4RR]

For anyone with a JR reciever what kind of NiMH packs do you use. Or where can i find new switches for JR recievers :confused: Thanks for any help.

[Saboteur]

I don't use packs, but I do use NIMH AA rechargables for my NT. Works very well and lasts long.

[Got Speed]

MBX4RR- I just use an 1100mah NiMh hump pack. You can get them off ebay for about $13.

[MikeWz]

For anyone with a JR reciever what kind of NiMH packs do you use. Or where can i find new switches for JR recievers :confused: Thanks for any help.
Like GS said, you can look for 'em on Ebay. There's a guy selling an 1100mah pack with a charger for it (has the right connection for the JR Reciever) for like $15 or something like that. Pretty good deal

[cave]

Wus UP???????????????????? Good to be back.

[cave]

GS Seams like I never left. Still talking about the NT DIFF. LOL. You still got the deal you typed up? I love mine when I have it set up right. That new track is alright. The guy who runs it is alittle different. I mean he can be a Richard Crainium!!!! All this rain sucked. I was ready to race sunday and tempe was flooded!!!

GS Tony built a small track in his back yard so we could chill a bit at the pad. Frenchee stopped by and so did a few others. Nice for a quick race fix. :D .

MikeZ, Ya motivated me bro :D

So Whats up? I know My Mugen Still Hauls Keaster...

[Got Speed]

cave- Yeah, I've still got it, lol. I went to that track in Tempe with my 1/8 scale a couple weeks ago with CJ Cole(I don't know if you know who I'm talking about). We were out there almost all day. I talked to that guy that owns the store and, well I don't think to much of him myself, lol. Alot of people at the track(Trevor's dad in particular) hate the guy. I've been hearing storys every other week now. lol. So now tony can go in his back yard and not the street, nice. Do you plan to race at SRS any more or are you racing at the other track for good now?

[cave]

Got Speed I took on a new possition at work and It takes more of my free time. I work Saturdays now. By the time Im ready to leave the Office its 7pm. Lot of hours. I need a vacation. I get Sundays off but I got the house stuff I need to keep up with.
I did drive over to that Tempe track. That guy Sucks. To many Rules and the locals dont fpllow them. There his buddies so they get to leave there radios on while you try to practice. You cant bring your own food to the track property. BS BS BS. I like the layout but nothing close to SRS. Scott and the rest know how to build them. Tony prolly go to the Avondale/Goodyear track "Nitro nuts". I like it but to darn far for me. There going to start racing Saturday nights too.
Tony and I raced around his back yard on sunday since all the tracks were flooded. lota fun.
I finally broke the Dinamite Aluminum battery carrier for my Drake. Tore up the diff case pretty bad to. I'll see ya soon.
Yea I do know CJ. Just think less than 5 months ago all he had was a GT. Now he has one of every make.LOLOLOLOLOO. He better win the lottery. I like to hack race with him :D

[MikeWz]

GS Seams like I never left. Still talking about the NT DIFF. LOL. You still got the deal you typed up? I love mine when I have it set up right. That new track is alright. The guy who runs it is alittle different. I mean he can be a Richard Crainium!!!! All this rain sucked. I was ready to race sunday and tempe was flooded!!!

GS Tony built a small track in his back yard so we could chill a bit at the pad. Frenchee stopped by and so did a few others. Nice for a quick race fix. :D .

MikeZ, Ya motivated me bro :D

So Whats up? I know My Mugen Still Hauls Keaster...

Lol, I do what I can :cool:
So what's been goin down. You still break the truck out at all even to just bash around?

[rccarman5]

Look at my car. i bought a new digi cam and unfortunatly my car was inpieces. well anyways. here it is!

http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/3666/IMG_83.jpg

[MikeWz]

Oh man, hardcore overhaul.
What kind of engine are you runnin in that? Only engines I can think of off hand with a gold cooling heard are RB Concepts or a Rossi and their heads look slightly different

[rccarman5]

nope. XTM racing! .15 price is 74 bux, got it for 25 brand new on sale. grabbed it not even knowing if was goign to get into nitro.

i can get u more pics later. but i usually strip the thing to the tranny, but i was too lazy taht i just stoppe. besides, my servo died on me. thats why i had to pull it apart. i gotta get a metal geared.

[Got Speed]

cave- Ahh, I may have to lay off the racing some(at least on saturdays) because I'll be getting a job here real soon. I'm going to go out to that Nitro Nutz track probably 2 weeks from saturday. I havn't been out there yet but from what I hear it's pretty nice(and a loamy surface right?). For me it takes about 30 minutes to get to SRS on I-10 it takes only about 30 minutes to get to Nitro Nutz so it's not so bad for me. Fortuanately the tempe track is the one that is a long way from me,lol. CJ had to sell his other stuff to get the 1/8 scale so all he has now is the MBX-5 and the GT. He is looking at coming to Losi side though now. lol

[Got Speed]

I don't know how I missed that you said they were going to race satruday nights. lol I just saw that. Well I'll have a place I can race my 1/8 scale. Maybe I'll alternate between SRS and Nitro Nutz if I like it. lol

[MikeWz]

What 1/8th are you guys runnin. I wouldn't mind havin an MBX-5 or something, but I don't even think there's a place that races them around me :mad: so it really wouldn't be worth spending the money. I'm in Mass for school and also on Long Island during the summers so there's really not much around me. I should move :cool:

[MBX4RR]

What 1/8th are you guys runnin. I wouldn't mind havin an MBX-5 or something, but I don't even think there's a place that races them around me :mad: so it really wouldn't be worth spending the money. I'm in Mass for school and also on Long Island during the summers so there's really not much around me. I should move :cool:

same by me so I just made my own track during last summer. Im making another this summer. What kind of surface are the tracks that you guys are racing on made of ?

Heres a pic of my car w/ my new Picco in it, just broke it in :) http://www.msnusers.com/g8kekfrpe5ea0j2gbeu6f8n0e7/Documents/Pictures%2Fcar%20005.jpg

[speedydave]

Link's broken for me.

Mike, I run an MBX5. I've driven quite a few 7.5's, too (originals, K1, K2, possibly going to drive a K3 this weekend).

[MikeWz]

Sweet deal. What do you think of the MBX and the Kanai? Just wondering because I'm considering one. And btw dave...Not selling the NT

[cave]

The track at Nitro Nuts is loomy and loose. real cool for shooting roosters. Step pin type tires a must!!! tempe track is more of a hard pack thats still loose. New track ya know... SRS is Concrete. Sike, almost concrete! hard pack desert dirt with a tad bit of clay.
GS I Guess most the SRS locals are going to Tempe this Saturday. If I can take the day off Ill be there too.
MikeWz kanais seam to be the 8th thats the snizz. The Mugens then the hypers even a few fast hotbodies. Alot of RTR storms out there with better Engines.. The RTR's are getting purdy popular.

cave

[Shady]

The MBX5 and The Kanai are the best out there for 1/8 can't go wrong with either one, the only difference i have noticed was the K cars have a higher price tag for replacement parts

[Got Speed]

I've got a Hyper with a Novarossi P5. IMO it's a nice setup. I'd like to get some torsen diffs and the alum rear torque brace mount but otherwise it is a similar setup to the Mugen. (lol and how was it the NT thread got started on 1/8 scales, oops). Like cave said one of the tracks here in Tempe is hard packed and small for an 1/8th. The other one that runs 1/8 is loose(havn't been there myself though). The 1/8 tracks around here arn't the greatest but it's better than nothing.

[MBX4RR]

yeah i got a Mugen MBX4RR (if you didnt guess by my name) with an O.S. RZ and its also a nice setup.

thanks for the info on the tracks

[MBX4RR]

Alright i know this will work :) just click on pictures on the left
www.msnusers.com/gascars

[MikeWz]

Guys, I moved over my radio to my on-road (as that's all I can run right now because my XXX-NT motor is effed) and am going to be getting new servos shortly. Any recommendations?

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- I'd highly recomend the Airtronics 94358 or 94357 servos. They are costly but they are some of the best servos you can get. The 94358 has 200 oz/in torque @ .1 sec. The 94357 has 125 oz/in torque @ .07 sec. I went for the 94357 and this thing is blazing fast with plenty of torque to turn it at those speeds. It makes responding to things so much easier. I took my Hitec 625 steering servo(at that time) and put it in the throttle position for a stronger, faster throttle/brake. I'm very pleased with my setup and don't intend to change it.

[dkj-M3]

airtronics 357

[GTX]

I just picked up my second XXXNT. I sold my first one a few months back and couldn't live with my self after that. Here's the specs on it so far:

XXXNT RTR truck
12 CV-RX
XR2
MG-625 steering servo
Drake pipe
Crowd Pleazer body
Reptiles in the rear

That's it for now. I'll post some pics after I'm done with the body.

[speedydave]

Sweet deal. What do you think of the MBX and the Kanai? Just wondering because I'm considering one. And btw dave...Not selling the NT

Woohoo!

I really like my MBX5, but I drove a K3 today and I really liked that, too. Either can be set up to handle like the other, so a big part of it is cost and parts availability. Like everyone else will say, drive both and then decide. Some people just can't get the MBX5 to work for them, others love their MBX5's and will never buy a Kyosho. I really do like both, but since I already own the MBX5, I don't see a point in selling it for a Kyosho. ;)

As for servos (I assume for your NT), what kind of budget are you on? If you don't have a budget for servos, the ultimate in servos would probably be an Air. 357 for steering and 737 for throttle. I run a 358 for steering and a 737 for throttle and I love them.

[MikeWz]

I guess budget isn't all that important. I'm getting $120 from tax return and a refund of $200 from returning a Realflight G2. On top of that I've got $60. I'll look into the above mentioned servos as 3 people listed them so they can't be wrong :cool: . Thanks guys!

[cabbynate]

Well, I did order 2 sets of the 3/32" balls from Definitive Products so I will report on what I get And how they work. This other source is also very good to know. The price sure seems right.

Well I got the diff balls and used them in my XXX-T and all I can say is this has to be the smoothest diff I have ever built!!!!!!! Time will tell after a few races but so far I'm sold. :)

[Got Speed]

I'm think I'm going to get some and give them a try. I need to replace mine soon and since those are barely any more than Losi, MIP, or AE balls.