Team Losi XXXNT forum v8.0

[cabbynate]

I'm think I'm going to get some and give them a try. I need to replace mine soon and since those are barely any more than Losi, MIP, or AE balls.

When you do let us now what you think. I'll bet you will be pleasantly surprised. :)

[Got Speed]

Yup, I sure will.

[cave]

Got Speed,

[cave]

Got Speed,
Thanks for your tuning!!! That was a big part of my B main Finish LOL. That track is so much fun! Tony and I practiced all afternoon Sunday.
Lata fun racing.
You guys with thos 8th scales .lol. That was kinda funny how they reacted at the track huh. They need to chill abit.
I may race Saturday night If I can get it off again.

cave

[Got Speed]

Cool. I am planning to go with CJ out to Nitro Nutz this saturday to practice with my 1/8 scale. I really wanted to drive it saturday but it was still funny how some of the electric guys just freaked when they saw three 1/8 scales out there.

[losiguy1090]

finally got my digi cam working. what do you think of my xxxnt? (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164431)

[cave]

GS are they racing Saturday? That might be the new plan.

I wonder how long its going to take Losi to develope an 8th scale buggy.

cave

[MikeWz]

Losiguy-Nice truck and an awesome work area. I with the 'rents would let me go for something like that. Even if it's in the basement. I'm pretty sure that's a no go though

Cave-Glad to see you back into the racing scene :cool: . Now all I gotta do is get some radio gear, Gel Cell batt/charger and a shaft for me MT12 and I'll be all set. HAH....that's gonna be a while. I'm hoping by mid-may when I get back home I'll have everything all set

[Got Speed]

cave- I don't know if they are racing or not. We were just planning to go practice. That would be nice if they raced though.

[losiguy1090]

thanks mike. the rest of the basement if finished but thats a closed off area for me and mah dad. me and my dad built those benches. they weigh a ton.

and to those of you who think that my truck must weigh a ton, your wrong. top deck is a lil lighter since its so thin and batt box is the same weight.

[MikeWz]

Man, I wish I could get my Dad into R/C. What do you think of that Native Racing deck? Does it really give any kind of advantage?

[losiguy1090]

actually, my dads not into rc. hes into real cars and uses that bench when he needs to have a place to sit down[like last night he was down there converting the clock in his vette to quartz movement]. but he does come to most of my races and is my pit man.

i love the native racing deck. it seems to be a lil stiffer and maintenance is so easy. steering servo comes out with 4 screws. the 2 servo screws and one of the posts. the tank comes out with about 5 srews, its awesome. the only mod you have to do to make it fit is countersink one of the holes on the bottom of the chassis. its drilled already, just not countersunk. wuts also really nice is having the transponder mount, no more ugly holes in bodies. lol. and its actually a lil lighter since its so thin.

[LoSick]

Just got the sirio 12 evo legal, unfortunately my lhs does not have the losi rear header, any ideas besides the new one from rex on the mst1 and the discontinued from trinity. need a similar with low profile

[MikeWz]

Losiguy- What exactly is the trasnponder mount?

Losick- I run the dynamite header with no problems

[losiguy1090]

mike, look at the pic again. its right over where the reciever used to be.

[MikeWz]

Losiguy-It's kinda hard to tell from the picture, not exactly sure what a transponder is in the first place....then again it's been almost a year since I've picked up the truck because of technical difficulties. I just hope I can get everything together for this season. It's gonna be like learning all over again. So....back on track....what exactly is this whole transponder thing about?

[losiguy1090]

the transponder is the lil thing that you strap into your car that counts your laps. you know how the reciever normally sits on the side of the chassis? well theyres a chunk of alluminum hanging over there with a hole in it. thats where you mount the transponder.

[MikeWz]

Oh sweet. Thanks. I may have to look into getting me one of those. I got the Carbon Fiber chassis so that actually may help. I find getting rear traction with the MT12 and such a light truck isn't exactly easy. The weight of the Fantom pipe helps a bit too, but it's still tough

[OmegaTrac]

Hey,
I am getting ready to put my XXX-NT up for sale. I have started racing electric and I dont see the need to keep my NT anymore. So Im going to finish a diff rebuild on it and put it up on the boards to sell.

The truck has the following:
-JR XR3 Radio
-JR servos
-1100mah RX pack with charger lead
-Picco .12 RC with about 2 gallons ran through it
-Freshly Rebuilt diff
-Brand new body

How much do you think I can sell this setup for? If any of you are interested please let me know.

Thanks :)

[MikeWz]

You'd probably get about $250 for that set-up

[OmegaTrac]

Thats a little less than I had hoped! LOL

[Shady]

split it up and you can get more, it'll be hard to get what you want without breaking it up

[MikeWz]

Yeah that's a good plan. Unforunately, as soon as you use the car the price gets halfed, even if it's in good condition. That set-up is worth about $600 but you'll never touch that. If you split it up you may be able to hit about $300 possibly a bit over

[cave]

OmegaTrac i got 50 bucxs for it:D j/k once a nitros been used people think they've been run hard. Nitro has always been seen as a hi powered lifestyle :D

raely tho, How old is is? Is it a Drake? Sport? SE? Extra Parts? GO the ebay route. If you dont sell at what you want to sell you only have to pay a small service charge for the Reserve rate. Just be careful and try to use paypal or equal service.

cave

[Got Speed]

OmegaTrac- If you go the ebay route give lots of details about how you mantained the truck and how/where it was run. It can tell somebody alot about what they are getting into by buying your truck. I've seen what appeared to be good deals but I havn't bought them just because of how it was listed.

cave- I guess I won't be going with CJ saturday. He wants to help in Tempe I guess. The guy is giving in and making the whole thing off-road. James said at the rate the track is going they will be out of business within three months. lol go figure.

[MikeWz]

Hey do you guys know where I may be able to pick up some GPM parts for my truck. I saw a few on ebay and don't have the cash on hand right now but would like to get some eventually. If not, does anybody know where I can get some red parts. I'm trying to do the red thing 'cause everybody I know with a xxx-nt either has blue or silver and I wanna be different :cool:

[OmegaTrac]

Cave: The truck is about 2 years old. It only got raced maybe 1 or 2 times a month. Very well taken care of. I always ran the motor between 210-220 degrees. It is the Limited Edition RTR. I will also include about 3 sets of tires with it.

[Got Speed]

I would like to know the same thing as MikeWz. I'm going for the red stuff and want some 1 deg. rear hubs and want red. If there isn't a red one then silver.

[MBX4RR]

heres the closest thing i found http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN7308

[MikeWz]

THis is the kinda thing I'm lookin for

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3188255856

GPM HAS to have it somewhere

[MBX4RR]

check out this web site http://losiminit.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/catalog2.cgi?car_id=all&cat=all&man=gpm&lim=0

[MikeWz]

Unforunately, they don't stock parts for the xxx-nt. They have some cool red ball studs and such but that's about it. I MUST find out where to get them from. :eek:

[losiguy1090]

you could just get some anodize paint if you already have alluminum. saw it on a car show, looked just like real anodizing. it requires a special technique but it turns out really nice.

[cave]

Mike
GPM is asiatee.com as Im sure you know. The company is an E BAY store. You can email the sales dept if you go back to the site they will answer your questions.

I asked if they had 1° rear hubs and at this point they dont but if they get enough request they will. I like blue my self. Red seams to be the color GPM has used as trademark. :(

GS
That place would be awesome if they opened all that space up for offroad. Maybe now it can be called an 8th scale track. I would go back if they inforced the board rules to all not just newcomers. *@$#! locals may get their Kester tapped. The way they leave there radios on so you cant practice.
That James guy really has to go to SRS to watch & learn how Scott annouces a race. Better yet get rid of that guy and his pops. They are what keeps me away even tho that track is like minutes from me house. You cant treat your customers like crap if you want them to come back. I cant see those few buddies of his being able to carry that track or store. Besides Scott and those who help him with thack layout do a great job. To bad they dont like Nitro there either.

cave

[MikeWz]

Cave-thanks a lot man. I wouldn't mind a pair of the 1 degree hubs myself. I'll throw them a line too.
I actually found that a lot of their stuff was blue. Everything they make for the Maxx, MGT, Micro RS4 etc is blue....I found it quite annoying because everybody else had blue, especially on those. I don't wanna have the same truck as everybody else. Anyway, enough rambling. Thanks for the link

[OmegaTrac]

My XXX-NT has been post in the Buy/Sell/Trade forum in case any of you are interested.

[Saboteur]

Anyone try a stock futaba S3003 in their Sport NT instead of the stock JR gear? I've noticed the last time I ran my NT, the wheels werent able to turn fully when on the street or sidewalk. Just trying to find a way to save some $$. I do have some AA 2100mah batts which do last a while and provide more than 4.8v even though they are 1.2v for each cell. Think an rx pack is worth the upgrade?

[Got Speed]

Yes an RX pack is worth the upgrade. If you go on ebay you can get them for $13. They are easier to work with and provide more voltage. Since they are only 1100 packs you will need to charge them more often that 2100 AAs but you can still get about an hour of run time off one pack.

[2Fast2Fury]

Can anyone tell me what I would need to convert a xxx-nt into a xxx-t. I'm finding that more people around here race electric and it's hard to get enough people to have a gas race, so I'm thinking about selling my nitro parts and adding on xxx-t parts. thanks everyone.

[ross]

Think you would be better off selling your XXXNT has a complete truck rather than converting it and then just buying a brand new XXX-T, it would probaly be about the same price ifnot cheaper and plus you get brand new suspension components. Basically you would need to buy everything except wishbones, shock towers, hubs knuckles and maybe steering although Im not sure about that.

Shame theres not has many people racing nitro near you.

[Got Speed]

2Fast2Fury- Like ross said you would be better off just selling the NT and buying a XXX-T. Most of the suspension components you can still use but you would still have to buy half a truck in parts to convert it. Everything from the chassis to the motor mount.

[MikeWz]

All of that on top of the motor and such. If you get the xxx-t RTR it comes with a good motor (for stock class) and a fairly decent ESC. All you'll really need to buy is a battery.

[AreCee]

The only parts the are shared by both are the front ends, wheels and tires and the rear hubs. Everything behind the front shock tower would need to be replaced with XXX-T parts. Then you'll need an ESC, motor, batteries and charger.

[losiguy1090]

if u want a xxxt just buy one or sell ur nt and buy one. very few parts on the trucks are the same. shocks, wheels, tires, whole front end, thats it i think.

[Saboteur]

Got Speed- Just made a big purchase at my LHS. I'm running blue thunder fuel now and I'm surprised to find that my engines run a lot better with it compared to Sidewinder or Megatech. My mach .15 and MT12 screamed. Saw some speeds I've never seen before even when I tried to tune them. It doesn't seem as bad as people have told me. Also I got an Ofna hump pack 5cell 1200nimh with charger, ofna 650cc fuel bottle and other goodies. Too bad my fun ended today after testing the new fuel when I hit a rock with my NT:(. Totally broke the left front A arm into 3 pieces. LOL!. Time to invest into a big MT.

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- Are you sure your engine was tuned right before? Because sidewinder fuel should be faster due to a lower oil content than blue thunder. cave had an engine that formed little crystals in the carb from blue thunder. I also had something similar when I first used blue thunder. I don't know if it's harmful or what though. lol I know what you mean about breaking stuff. You know for only about 6 onces of weight they could make the truck much much more durable. Most people end up adding more than 6 ounces with alum. stuff yet with only a few onces on an alum. rear pivot block, rear hubs, and some extra plastic/graphite in key places it could be probably 3 times as durable.

[losiguy1090]

graphite is less durable so that would make it worse. sabotuer, you probly had the engine tuned wrong. sidewinder is some of the best performing, purest fuels out there.

[cave]

Saboteur
As Got Speed stated above, I had used Blue Thunder religiuosly. Then one day I coulndt start my engine. So I took the motor out to better inspect it. I took the carb filter off and notice something simalar to sand in the carb and down low inside. I freaked out. i thought maybe the airfilter came off but I would of noticed that. So I check the motor all the way down to a total breakdown. I had thos elittle crystals inside too. All i used was Blue Thunder. As I looked closer I saw that the crystals were LT Blue. I stopped using the Blue Thunder! Switched to Trinity Platinum. Love it but hard to find here in Mesa AZ. I know use Odonnell. I really dont like it but it works fine. I like the fact that Trinity uses Klots tecnoplate. Its the same oil I use in my Quad


cave

[Got Speed]

losiguy1090- I meant if you were running plastic or if you were running graphite parts a little extra material in key places would make them much stronger.

[MikeWz]

Guys, it is just me or are the guys running GTs real jerks? They always seem to be the first to reply to a "What's the best ST" thread and all they ever mention is the GT. It always seems that we're the ones giving a fair list of great cars and a list of reasons to choose one car over another. It's like the Mets VS Yankees here in NY. The yankee fans hate the met fans, but the met fans are always like....okay.....

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- I think there are a lot of kids on the boards and most of them get the GT because it is cheaper and don't even think about it. Since they have it is must be best. lol

[MikeWz]

I know. It just gets me pretty irritated, I dunno why but it does. There's the group of Flash, MaxxGT and some other guy that all have the GT, and they just ream all other cars out of the picture and tell everybody that's what the best is. I wanna see these guys at the track :cool:

[MBX4RR]

i have 4 rc10gt's and an old nxt and a xxx-nt and i think that the xxx-nt is better, although i do find working on and cleaning the GT easier. rc10gt people are kind of like mp 7.5 people, am i right?

[Got Speed]

MBX4RR- lol yeah. "the one the only". I had 3 GTs before and now the NT. I'm also sold on it. Like you said a bit harder to work on and clean because there is more in the way but the upper deck and how things interlock also make it more rigid and stronger.

[MikeWz]

Amen to that. You find the same thing with the 7.5 and MBX5 (with a few extra others throw in there as well).

I've owned a Rustler, HPI MT, RC10GT and heck, even a Nitro Hawk. I'm also sold on the Losi. The RC10 was a big easier to work on but that's not going to be the deciding factor for me. This truck seems to fly better and hold a line better. I'm hoping to get the GPM Red AL upper deck for the truck so that should add even more to the stiffness of the car. I've already got the CF chassis which made a noticeable difference. Can't wait to get some extra cash....and that shaft for my engine :(

[losiguy1090]

if u want an alloy upper deck get the native racing one. makes maintenince so easy.

i aggree, the group of guys with the gt's make me irratated too. they refuse to accept that its 10 year old technology and the xxxnt is winning more races. i too would like to see them on the track, seems like every time flash goes to the track he breaks. maxxgt says its cuz they drive balls out but sounds like bs to me ;)

edit, if you guys wanna see em on the track check out flash's vid. theyre cuttin corners like crazy and are all over the place :rolleyes:

[low10s]

i would agree about the losi. i am looking for a part, the gear/brake hub for the nt. horizon, and stormer is out of them. sheldon's does not carry them. anywhere else i can try. thanks

[Saboteur]

Got speed- Man, now you made me feel like I'm using horrible fuel. :( Seriously both my engines run faster with the blue thunder. I've tuned it even when running sidewinder. No idle problem or so, but I've noticed a big speed increase. I have already bought a gallon and used up two tanks so far in my MT12. The guy at the LHS told me that there are other fuels that do leave residue inside the engines. They only had BL in gallons, and Odonnels and byrons in qts. Still thinking about purchasing an MT so I can run all over the place...and with this I may sell the NT. Think I should sell it with the fuel? I'm also including a brand new hitec 625MG servo I bought on on tuesday.

[Saboteur]

Oh yeah, I completely for got this. I've noticed a shaved part on my rear arm on the side of the gears. I was wondering could this have been done by the spur gear or was that filed down part there before? I never noticed it and just realized that if it wasn't there, either the arm or spur or both would be damaged. Also, has anyone tried alum front A arms on their NT? I still see that stupid rock outside that I hit which shattered my previous arm to pieces.. and I wanna kick the **** outta it. :mad: Surely with a Savage or Maxx I'll run over it next time as if it weren't there. :cool:

[losiguy1090]

that lil indentation under the spur gear on the arm is suposed to be there. its there so that it doesnt bind when the suspension is compressed.

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- Like losiguy1090 said. That notch is supposed to be there so it dosn't interfere with the spur gear. Unless you sell it locally don't sell fuel with it. You can get it trouble or have your truck messed up by shipping fuel.

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Look at this. Finally somebody made the bellcranks(in red too!). http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dllViewItem&category=44028&item=3189325595&rd=1

They have these too: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49217&item=3189391777&rd=1

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- I emailed the guy about the rear hubs too. He said they are exactly like the stock peices(so they should be 1 deg.)

[LoSick]

low10s, atomic hobbies at miami carries everything for losi, losa2927 is the part you need. 305-2353232.
got a sirio .12 evo, 3 port and I´ve just knew yesterday that drake has switched from nova to sirio to power his nt, I guess that it must be tha engine!

[ross]

Ordered a Sirio EVO 2 3 port last night for my NT. Nice to hear the man himself has switched to Sirio power too, any idea which one he is running?

[MikeWz]

yeah I've been doing my fair of searcing. www.asiatees.com
They have a whole bunch of stuff. Now I'm all excited. That's why I'm getting that red top deck. I know that the Native racing one makes it easier to work on but I've been wrenching all this time with a stock chassis and I really can't complain, so I'm going red :cool:

I'll be all red and Carbon Fiber :D

[ross]

Cant beleive you all like Red so much!

[MBX4RR]

Ordered a Sirio EVO 2 3 port last night for my NT. Nice to hear the man himself has switched to Sirio power too, any idea which one he is running?

no clue, but why does teamlosi put such small screw's in the chassis why dont they use 3/32 instead of 5/64? The smaller ones are so much easier to strip out the head, and the small size increase seems to prove to be alot stronger.Just had to get it out, been asking myself for more than 3 years :confused: (when i got my NXT).

[ross]

I dont have any problem with the 5/64" and 3/32" screws, its the 1/16" screws I have a problem with especially under the chassis. I wish they could use 5/64" on them screws would make it much better. The 0.50" are also a bit of a pain on the battery box and linkage but because they dont need to be removed that often its not to much of a problem.

[losiguy1090]

ross, adam is running the evo 2 3 port version with a slide carb.

[MBX4RR]

yeah yeah i meant the 1/16 didnt bother checking :rolleyes:

[Shady]

you guys crack me up saying the GT is 10 years old, the GT out now is only about 4 to 5 years old and if not mistaken has won all the major races with the exception of one or 2 a year ( and i still own a NT, just so funny reading this)

Drake switched from the Nova because Trinity no longer has the exclusive rights to them

[losiguy1090]

the gt technology is 10 years old. and recently[as in this year] the xxxnt has been winning almost everything.

i knew that, he said that he likes em a lot though. he said theyve got wicked power and great fuel mileage.

[OmegaTrac]

Any tips on getting my NT sold? Its been on these forums since Monday night and noone is showing any interest in it?

[MBX4RR]

put it on ebay and forums

[MikeWz]

MBX-I totally agree with you on the screws. Especially the engine mount screws. I can't even count how many of those I've shot

And ross....What's wrong with Red huh!?!? :mad:
Naw dude, jus messin. It's just that blue is so over done with me. Between the Maxx, the MGT, the RC10...everybody has blue. I'm sick of it :rolleyes:

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Yeah, now where do I come up with some money? lol

ross- You can drill out the holes in the battery box and put 3/32" screws in there. That's what I've done and it works great.

[ross]

Ah he's running the same one Ive ordered!

MikeWz,
LOL, Each to his own. Like you say though blue is over done it would be nice if they started making different coloured parts, just red doesnt do anything for me. I quite like natural/polished though.

Thanks for that GS, must remember that.

I currently have 4 1/16" that have had it under the chassis, theres probaly more now though :(.

[losiguy1090]

mike, how have you stripped the engine mount screws? ive never stripped any. possibly cuz i have SS screws but who knows. dont have problems with any of the screws accept the ones that hold the chassis brace that screw into the gear box. theyre so dang small.

[MikeWz]

Losiguy- I was doing some swapping of engines and I think I stripped out like 5 screws. Not all at once, over a period of time....but still

Ross-GPM makes parts in all different colors. They have silver, Red, Green, Blue and a few others that I can't think of right now

GS-Yeah man I hear ya. I don't have a job which makes this awfully difficult :(

[WheelNut]

Man you guys need some better allen drivers. I just stripped an engine screw last week, and it was 2 years old, plus I've taken the engine out prolly 100 times.

[Got Speed]

Even with good allen drivers if you don't get the dirt out of the hex then it will strip. I strip them when I'm in a hurry because I don't clean all the dirt out. Like if I'm trying to fix something before my race I'll just start twisting and half the time I do strip them.

[MikeWz]

Just when I rush in general I wind up stripping the screws because I'll slip or something. I dunno. I found the Losi screws to not be best quality honsetly. I plan on replacing them all with red fastener-express screws :cool:

[losiguy1090]

i have rc screws ss screws and theyre awesome. the heads are very strong and they dont rust. plus they looks really cool.

[losiguy1090]

and have you guys tried using a pic to get stuff out of the head? it works great. jw wut method u use.

[Got Speed]

I usually use an exacto knife but like I said, when I'm in a hurry I just skip over that, lol.

MikeWz- I was going to get some of those too but I didn't after having bad experiences with other alum. screws. The ones I used stripped at least twice as easily as the steel screws so I didn't get them.

[MBX4RR]

I use an exacto knife or a push pin to clean out the heads but i too usually get alittle rushed and skip that part :rolleyes:

yeah aluminum screws are alot easier to strip, i got the blue aluminum screw kit from trinity but i only put them up top and not on the chassis because they strip easier.
looks pimp though :cool:

[MikeWz]

I'll probably just put them on top anyway. Nobody will see the bottom ones.

Guys, I e-mailed Asiatees and they said gather up all requests for GPM parts for our truck and e-mail them. List whatever you want even if we post the same things. That just shows that more people want. And if you would please sign your name. I'm going to gather up a collection from us and e-mail them. Here's Mike

Aluminum Rear Pivot Block
Aluminum Front Pivot Block
Alumunium Battery Box


Michael A. Wurtz

[dkj-M3]

Aluminum or Titanium 1* Rear Hubs made like the stock ones, not Trinity's.

Darrell (KJ) Wright

[MBX4RR]

Aluminum battery box
aluminum front pivot block

Nick J Hranitz

[cave]

MikeWz
I dont think they'r all jerks. They prolly are are old school to the bone. I too had a Associated Gold pan buggie back in the day. They set the standard back then. There are so many more choices now. I choose to not follow the crowd. I made my choice after careful research. I chose the ST that better suited my area. If losy gets sloppy Ill go tho the next ST. GT hasnt changed much. Even inareas that matter. Losi seems to pay attention to the rest of us. Not just the pros. Not to mention the great parts support they offer.
Like Got Speed typed. It would be nice if Losi beefed up some key areas. that will prolly be the next generation XXXNT.6
If someone gave me a new GT i would take it. But for now Ill pay for a Losi nt.

Kinda late But I work alot :D

GS We will be at Tempe today. They change the track . You may want to make a day trip down here some day. Let us know.

cave

[MBX4RR]

do you guys know where i can get a A-2927 compound gear & brake hub? horizon's out of stock :(

[speedydave]

Try stormer. www.stormerhobbies.com

Edit: Nevermind, Stormer's out of stock too.

[MikeWz]

Cave-hah don't worry about it. I don't know if these guys are hardcore to the bone though. Flash is like 15....I'm pretty sure he wouldn't be able to hold a remote when they first came out. Lol, it's just a gang of friends, one likes it and the others only drove his so they thought it was the best. They have yet to meet a losi face-to-face

[losiguy1090]

flash annoys me. he thinks hes smarter than he is. hes an a$$ if u talk to him on aim or wutever. he disses ppl but he cant take a diss.

[losiguy1090]

and i beat a bunch of guys running gt's today and i broke in the a main with a minute left :p i was the only guy running a xxxnt

[MikeWz]

Yeah, I found flash to be an immature little kid. He's like a kid I know here. Everything he has is the best, even if there's plenty of things pointing against it. Maxx isn't as bad as far as immiturity goes, but if you noticed anything he recommends it's either a maxx, GT, or a Hyper PCR depending on what they're asking. And take a wild guess what cars he's running :rolleyes:

[losiguy1090]

wuts wrong with the pcr?

[losiguy1090]

but i do find it annoying how ppl always think theyre car is the best and wont reccomend anything else or admit that another car is superior

[cave]

Take any good driver and hand him any ST and he will always place or win. Its the driver who wins the race not the Model. Adam Drake would do fine with a GT. And vise versa. Whom ever that is.
I've read some of the aboves post. They're young. So is Got Speed But he's real smart:D Its not the age its the "Mine is better than yours cause I got one stage". Its real entertaining sometimes. I enjoy this hobby. I dont care what you drive. LETS RACE!!!!!! May the better driver win.

Oh and sorry about the tap. :D thats racing :p

MikeWz where do sign up for that GPM deal. 1° rear hubs, entire front end including all the stearing components minus the front tower. Battery box that has the same degree° as the stock one. Mike, sign me up bro! I'll take Polished any time over anodized. Chrome makes me faster :) Chrome gets me home deal.

cave

[LoSick]

mbx4rr, atomic hobbies at miami has the 2927- 305-2353232.
guys, just installed the sirio evo, it´s a beast, will take forever the breakin but it´s worth the entire day. required the use of an extra shim in the shaft (since I use the Mip flywheel) and took the inner part of a broken bearing and use it as a shim in the idler to gain some clearance, fit perfectly! and for the linkage, since my lhs did not have that losi part, had to use the standard jr servo arm. works fine and provides sufficient brake. as for the header, the losi is out of stock so I had to use the hpi, pushes the body out less than half an inch but works fine.
the sirio guys should learn to write the manuals like the japanese. no default settings for the needle, breakin or detailed parts of the engine, I guess that´s the price for getting a high performance engine and this is what takes me to the next point. I got that engine for 140 two weeks ago at tower including the 20 discount, and right now that engine is 272, how can it be? has the switching of drake to this engine something to do with? guess so, anyway the coolest thing of the engine is the additional turbo button and glow plug and carb restrictor, you can run it mild or go wild, a beast!
here´s a pic

[LoSick]

A Pic finally!

[Got Speed]

GPM already makes 1ْ rear hubs. They are supposed to be exact copys of the stock losi part according to him.

I know they work mostly in alum. but I would really like to see a longer captured ball end the length of the stock peices preferably in several colors or white so we can die them.

I just got back from the RCX show at Anaheim. Great show. Lots of new products out there like the new GS buggy, TT Buggy, Traxxas Revo, some new electronics like a radio that gives you speed, engine temp, battery power for the rx etc. and alot more. During the Losi demo on saturday Adam Drake was running one of his trucks with one of his older engines in it. Going off one of the large jumps he blew a rod. lol The other Losi guys were laughing at him. Later I talked to him and he was laughing about it. He said he really likes his new engine too. I stopped by The Dirt on the way back and ran by buggy a little bit.

I dropped by Pegasus while I was out there to go in there store. They had those Hot Bodies Alum. clutch shoes for $15 so I picked them up. I can't wait to see what they do. They are exactly like the Losi clutch shoes just light blue anodized aluminum. I figure for $15 I can't go wrong if normal shoes are $12.

cave- Yeah, I may go up there very once in a while but even with the track larger I still can't stand James. On the way back from So Cal I timed how long it was once we passed Nitro Nutz. It was only 30 minutes so it isn't any longer than going to SRS. I want to go out there sometime in the next three weeks sometime.

[losiguy1090]

losick, sick truck. is the accell uncontrollable with the sirio? or is it more in control since u went up 2 teeth on the spur?

[dkj-M3]

Got Speed-

Man, didn't know they made those, time to order. 1* hubs

Let us know how the clutch shoes work. You are going to try them on the losi????

[Got Speed]

dkj-M3- Yeah, I'm glad I saw them. Cheaper than Trinity's too. Probably slightly heavier since they are just like stock but it can't matter much. I'm going to buy some here real soon hopefully. Yeah, I'm going to try the clutch shoes on the Losi. Maybe tommorow.

[MikeWz]

What exactly is the advantage of 1* hubs and how are trinity's different. Are they 0* hubs?

Can anybody set me up with a link for captured links for the truck? Can't seem to find any. Thanks

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Stock the NT has 4 degrees or rear toe. 3 in the pivot block and 1 in the hubs. Now you can switch the hubs to different sides to eliminate alot of toe(I don't recomend it though) or you can buy hubs with different angles. I know Trinity makes 1* and 2* but I'm not sure about 0*. GPM makes exact copys of the stock parts which are 1*. Titan Tech makes 0* and I think 2*(not sure if they make 1*). Etc. Basically more or less rear toe depending on what degree hubs you get. I am using these for the inside rear of my truck right now: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJG69&P=ML I have never broken one but every several months I replace them when they get a little bit of slop in them. There aren't any good full length ones so you have to move the outside ball stud in and the inside bolt out. That's why I said above I'd like to see full length ones. I am looking at buying some Ofna ones now because they are the closest to full length ones I've seen and look like they are stronger than the Traxxas ones. These are some of the Ofna ones but I think they are the shorter ones: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBM28&P=7 The steering turbuckle on my PCR uses the longer ones and they are very close to the same lenth as the stock ball cups.

[ross]

LoSick,
Im expecting my Sirio 3 port slide carb any time this week. You say that it doesnt come with any default settings for break in, so which ones did you use for break in? And what break in process are you using?

Thanks.

[losiguy1090]

they have the needle settings and www.teamtrinity.com

[MikeWz]

GS-You recommend keeping the standard ones then...or at least getting the GPM red ones? Why does it seem a lot of people here are agains the Trinity ones if they're 1* and the standard ones are also 1*?

[losiguy1090]

idk, but it might be because you have to add to washers underneath the ball stud to get it up to stock height.

[dkj-M3]

The studs break off in the top of the trinity hubs & there is not enough room to put a screw in there with a lock nut on the other side. That's why I want to have them made like the stock ones, so I can use cap-ends. Just trying to figure out how to bullet-proof my truck. So far the only thing I usually break now are the rear right stock hubs. I have an endless supply of the left hubs,LOL.

[RockDog]

Hey,

Was wondering if anyone has any pointers for me...

I have a Team Losi XXX-NT and I'm looking to get a little more grip up front...but don't want to add weight or a wing. I'm thinking of getting the knobby tires up front instead of the stock tires. Any thoughts?

I'm not racing or anything, just doing some backyard bashing...sometimes on asphalt, but most of the time on dirt/grass.

Thankx for the help,

[MikeWz]

What weight oil are you running in your shocks and what kind of rear tires are you using. The weight in your front may be a bit too light. If you're running 30 try to go to 35 and see if that solves the problem

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- The Trinity 1* hubs are very hard to find. So far I havn't been able to find them anywhere in stock. The trinity hubs are also designed so the ball stud faces up like dkj-M3 said.

dkj-M3- You sure a driveshaft isn't binding up or something? Or is it just a turn you don't have down or something like that?

RockDog- Lighter weight oil will provide more traction and thicker oil will allow it to corner faster. The same with springs. Softer= traction Stiffer= faster cornering. A stiffer/thicker suspension setting will help it jump higher, farther, and land better than a softer/lighter suspension will.


ross- Everybody has there own method, style, ideas, whatever for break-in and most are pretty close to being right or at least work fine whether other some people agree or not. Here is what I do and have had all good experiences doing it(I don't always follow every step exactly, it's something I kind of have to get a feel for that makes the final decision but this is pretty close).

1st tank- I start it up and let it idle rich for only about 30 seconds. Then I drop it out on the street(with my slicks, lol). I go very easy and slow with the throttle and never go more than 1/4 throttle(I try to reach every RPM up to 1/4 throttle equally so now RPM gets favored). I run it richer than I would normally run my engine(so that it will load up some sitting at idle). It usually runs too cool from being rich and run slow. However, I keep the engine temp up by either using my body with the air holes covered or wrapping some of the fins in alum. tape or foil. I do this for 3 minutes then shut the engine off and put the piston to BDC.

2nd- Similar to the first but I may lean the mixture slightly(again I just decide by how it runs).

3rd- I reach 1/2 throttle and try to continue hitting every RPM equally. I may lean it out a little more now. If the temps are high enough by themselves I will remove any artificial means of keeping the engine temp up.

4th- I reach 3/4 throttle but I back off fairly quicly and I run through a full tank.

5th- I reach full throttle and back off quickly but I run as far as 3/4 throttle a little more frequently and get the speed up and hold it for about 2 seconds.

6th- I reach full throttle as slowly as possible without overreving the engine by the time I reach full. By now I have it leaned out enough so that it is running near an ideal tune but still noticeably rich. By running it faster now the temps are up fine by themselves and I don't have to artificially raise the temps(unless it is cold out).

7th- I run this tank fairly fast favoring higher RPMs more than lower ones yet I'm not constantly on the throttle, so I don't over-rev or over-heat the engine.

8th- I put it on the track and run it only slightly richer than ideal. I take it easy on throttle. I still don't just grab the trigger all at once but I'm driving it at a good pace without worrying about being real slow and smooth on the trigger.

9th- I'm still running slightly rich but grab the throttle when and where I want to.

10th- All I need now is to put some more fuel through it. It's running an ideal tune and I'm putting it through at race pace. I am a little pickier about its tuning but I'm running at a race pace now.

Like I said above I may change this method some depending on the engine runs but it follows the same basic guidlines. Temps and RPMs increase with every tank as I lean it little by little and drive it a little harder each time. I put the piston at BDC every time I'm done and I don't run full tanks of fuel for the first several runs. I run the throttle smooth and slow(not slow running, but slowly pulling the throttle back not just grabbing it) untill I get to the last steps. I keep the temps above 190 too. Otherwise alot of it just depends on how the engine responds to everything I do to it. I've had good success with them this way. My current engine in my truck has 5 gallons and still has plenty of compression to it. I expect another 3 maybe 4 gallons out of it but I may rebuild it before then anyway.

[MikeWz]

Well I don't personally need to worry about them being in stock or not...they're blue. I don't want that crap. Lol. Is there any advantage or disadvantate to having the ball studs facing up?

[MikeWz]

Well I don't personally need to worry about them being in stock or not...they're blue. I don't want that crap. Lol. Is there any advantage or disadvantate to having the ball studs facing up?

Also, what Oil/springs/tires are you guys running to race and what conditions are you running them on. It's been a REALLY long time since I've raced and as soon as I get back home mid-may I'm getting out to the track. Just looking for a basic set-up to get myself started because it's been almost a year since I've even taken the truck out. Still waiting for my threaded shaft/5mm bolt to get here. :rolleyes:

[losiguy1090]

i usually run adam drakes the standard dirt setup. i run at www.leisurehours.com and most of the tracks here www.chicagorc.com im thinking of going a lil lighter in the rear, mabey 35 wt instead of 40 to get some more traction. we'll see.

[losiguy1090]

oh, sorry. thats the link to the hobby store. www.leisurehoursraceway.com

[losiguy1090]

losick, tell us wut you think of the engine once its broken in. im thinking of getting one.

[LoSick]

factory settings for the high speed is about 5.5, sirio recommends the breakin with no more than 15 nitro and a minimun mixture of 10 castor, since I didnt have 10 percent fuel, I mixed my fuel with some klotz benol and add methanol, final fuel used for running in 10 nitro with 18 oil, I use backyard basher 20 nitro 16 oil .as for running in, I particularly like the 3 times idle for 3 minutes, making sure the piston is at bottom, then open the high speed one full turn from factory, and run 3 tanks at 1/4, 3 at half, 3 at 3/4, 3 hitting short burst of gas all the time . then adjust the high speed and low speed for top performance, always on the rich side and between tanks letting the engine cool down completely. will take several hours but it pays off in the long run.
I particularly did not like the screws that came with the egine, I prefer the allen type that come with os, and when changing the turbo for a standard head took me like forever, I´ll ask trinity or star motor the exact size of these screws and change them later for allen type.
just make sure that you have a decent air filter, the trx 2.5 or motor saver for 2.5 will work fine.
just checked tower, price dropped from 272 to 200.
hope this helps

[LoSick]

forgot! trinity has factory settings for sirio as guidelines for running in. and the o ring for the carburetor did not come. I don´t know if it got loose when I opened the bag, anyway I´m using the red one from a trx2.5
http://www.teamtrinity.com/tips/nitro.asp

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Not really, it makes it slightly lighter because there is less aluminum since it is really only half a hub with the ball stud that screws in the top. You may drop off a 1/8-1/4 of an ounce or something. But then if your ball stud breaks and you don't have a washer there there isn't anything to grab onto it with. What is the track like that you run on? The track I run on is real hard packed with very little loose stuff on top. They keep it watered and it is a 1/10 size track. I run red springs in front and back, 37.5wt in the rear and 32.5 in the front. I run 1* of camber in the front, and 2* in the rear, the stock 4* rear toe, and 1* front toe, arms slightly below level, mid wheelbase setting, 3rd hole on the upper rear, center hole on the lower rear, 2nd hole on the upper front, center hole on the lower front. I'm thinking about going up to 35 on the front and maybe to 40 in the rear.

[ross]

GS,
Thanks alot for that, appreciate it. It came this morning so I should have it in and running by saturday because I have a race on sunday! Probaly end up doing the last tanks of break in on the track.

[MikeWz]

GS-Truth is, I'm not really sure what it is anymore. They changed it last season and that's the season I didn't get over there. From the pictures it looks like packed dirt/clay so I'm thinking about running Red T-2000s with that. Thanks for the set-up, I'll try something along those lines. Here are some pics of me track. Maybe you can tell better than I can

www.raceway.com

[Got Speed]

Sure, let us know how it turns out.

[Casper]

Well I don't personally need to worry about them being in stock or not...they're blue. I don't want that crap. Lol. Is there any advantage or disadvantate to having the ball studs facing up?

Hello guys. It has been a while since I posted! :o

Anyway to answer this question from Mike, the verticle ball studs are that way for a good reason. By adding or taking away washers you raise and lower the roll center of the car. This is a nice tuning aid and works the same way you adjust the front ball studs on the truck. I use the trinity ones because of this feature. If I could find someone else that made this style of hub I would use them but Trinity is the only company I know that makes them. Racers edge makes similiar hubs but I have only seen them for AE cars! :(

[Casper]

Just wanted to make one small comment on breaking in engines.

There are as many ways to break in engines as there are racers. There are two things that all good break in procedures include though.

1. Run it rich to lube up the parts

2. Get heat into the engine (running over 250 is bad but anything under that and over 190 is a good range.) and then letting it cool. This is called heat cycling the engine.

You want to "heat cycle" then engine 3-4 times min while running at least 2-3 full tanks really rich. You also do not want to rev out the engine during the first few tanks. If you accomplish these things during your break in you should be just fine!

MikeWz-- If the track looks like T-2000's will work you should try and get your hands on some of the new King Pin tires coming on the MF2. Those tires look like they will work awsome for those hard track conditions with some dust!

[MikeWz]

Yeah I was gonna say the MFII ones look different. Well I'm picking up an MFII when it comes out anyway so I might as well get some extra tires :D

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Yeah, many setups will work well on most surfaces. I see at my track alone people running setups from 30-45wt., oil pink to orange springs, stuck up in the air to sitting on the ground, etc. That's one thing I like about the Losi is it works well with the same setup anywhere. A little tuning makes it better but it works well without.

Casper- I didn't even think about that with the washers. Is it a feature you actually use or is it just one that is there though?

I completely forgot to mention letting it cool(lol, which is the reason for shutting it off in the first place). I usually let my engine cool to about 140 before firing it back up. As I mentioned it is important to put the piston at BDC when you shut it off.

[Casper]

I have used the washers in the past and they do effect the handling of the car. I have found some setups that work really well on my cars and have not changed a whole lot on them since. You can live without it but it will make a difference in the handling of the car if you change it. I will admit that I am running the "stock" position though.

[Got Speed]

Yeah, I'm sure it makes a difference. But is it something you would ever want to adjust? Or is it just another possibility. I like having possible tuning options even if I don't use them but I think I would want to spend money on new sets if the ball studs broke off with no washers or something(or is there no time you would use no washers).

At the Losi booth at RCX the XXX-NT(with drakes body on it, lol) had white driveshaft yokes, and something else that was white too(I think ball cups). I've never heard of or seen these. Is this some new part, an old part(like old RC10 parts), or something they don't even make? Is it just plastic or some other material. I don't know why I didn't think to ask when I was there.

I'm getting the rear hubs and the bellcranks from GPM. I'll let everyone know what I think of them when I get them.

[Shady]

the white stuff is just the losi stuff that hasn't been dyed, a lot of the factory guys run them white and undyed

[losiguy1090]

send it over to me and ill do it for you :D

[princessjen]

Hey guys!

I just got my XXX NT sport, and i am really new to this game, what can i do to improve it with aftermarket parts??

Thanks
-jenny

[losiguy1090]

hey, welcome. its good to see more women get into the hobby. theres tons of good hopups. graphite, alluminum front block, rear block, and rear hubs. also try out the one peice diff nut carrier. kevlar spur gear is also nice.

[MBX4RR]

best parts to get are
-Trinity Aluminum Pivot Block
-Kevlar spur gear
-graphite shock towers
-titanium turnbuckels w/ RPM ball cups
-aluminum brake clips
- maybe even some RC TRIX,GPM, dynamite aluminum a-arms

[antonc-87]

hey, i am just getting back to running my truck this spring/summer, it has sat (with plenty of lube) for a while becuase ive been at school, is there anything i should do before i run it again like a second break in or somthin,
i would of course use fresh fuel, fresh fuel tubing, and relube everything...

[MikeWz]

Ant-welcome to the club man. My trucks been sitting for a while too. I've been trying to find a freaking shaft for like a year (less than the $20 one from Mugen) and somebody sent it to me from Australia but it hasn't gotten here yet.
You don't need to "re-break-in" your engine. Just make sure it's well lubed. Use some Marvel Myster oil in the head. Just take out the glow plug and put a teaspoon full of it in there and turn the engine over a few times and you should be set. Make sure you plugs are good too

[Got Speed]

Shady- Yeah, but I've never seen that stuff in stores. Is it available to us or just them?

princessjen- The most important things for me were these:

1- Captured ball ends on the rear inside turbuckles. If you get the longer Ofna ones you shouldn't have to change the settings to accomadate for shorter ball ends.

2- Get 1/4" longer screws for the bulkhead. Get all 4 of them. The front ones will stick out a little bit on top but it makes it far stronger than stock.

3- A short turnbuckle, two ball studs, 1 small nut that will thread on one ball stud, and two ball cups or captured ends. Thread the ball cups or ends onto the turbuckle and screw a ball stud into the right hole in the rear shock tower(the one for the swaybar). Then drill a hole in the batt box where the other ball end/cup lines up and screw a ball stud in there and put the nut on the back. Now adjust the turnbuckle to push out/down slightly on the box.(if you use captured ends replace the ball studs with 4-40 screws).

These three things make a big difference in durability and are inexpensive. I would do the first three things I listed before breaking them but would wait to replace anything else untill I broke it. Upgrade as you break stuff. When you break parts I suggest replacing them with normal plastic parts instead of the RTR plastic. It is more durable and dosn't cost much more. Graphite is not any stronger than plastic it is just lighter and stiffer(can be easier to break). Since it is the RTR titanium turbuckles would be good. For aluminum parts I would suggest the alum rear pivot block. The other stuff is good too like the front/rear hubs, spindles, and bellcranks, etc. but the rear pivot block is the weakest of all those things. For the most part it is a durable truck these things just help you stay together longer.


antonc-87- Just make sure everything is lubed well. Make sure the diff and slipper are adjusted right. Make sure nothing has a lot of slop or is broken. Make sure everything turns freely and dosn't bind. Put some after run oil in there and then fire it up and have some fun.

I tried the alum. clutch shoes out today. I ran the stock shoes first then ran the alum. ones so I could get a good feel for the difference. Well they deffinately grab better than the stock shoes. It dosn't slip as much as the stock shoes. Driving it on somewhat dirty asphalt with slicks didn't give me a great idea but I could still notice a difference even at that. When I get out to the track I will let you know how they drive out there. So far I like them though.

[MikeWz]

Ohhhhh man. So happy. My buddy apparantly has some deal where he can get 50% off of his next few tower orders so I'm getting a Kanai 3 with OS RG engine and an MX-3 radio. I'm gonna get the new ofna 1/8th off-road pipe for low-end. Sooo sick

[Shady]

Got Speed-its a thing they can only get

If your gonna race the NT then get the trinity blocks and catured rod ends on the inside rear, i also suggest the native battery box, maybe later get the native top plate (not a must but makes it a lot easier to work on), if your gonna just bash it go all out with it if you want

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Sweet. 50% off huh? I wonder how he go that. Are you talking about the Ofna 063 pipe? If so, I am running that on my P5. It's an awesome pipe and coupled to a bottom end engine like the P5 it has some serious low end power. Perfect for the small-mid size tracks around here.

[Got Speed]

Oops, forgot.

Shady- Aww, I wonder why they even make them then?

[dkj-M3]

Got Speed, Every once in a while, I come off a jump wrong & land on the side of my wheels & snap. No nothing binds. I wish Losi would not cut out the hub below the stud holes, that is where it always breaks.

[Casper]

Actually all the white stuff is being released to the public. It is included with the new MF truck. The ball cups are actually a different material and are round instead of hex shaped. I can hardly wait!

[Got Speed]

dkj-M3- Yeah, I think that is probably the next most important thing after the pivot block too. If they just put some more plastic below the ball studs and above the bearings there would be no need for aluminum.

Casper- Good. Any idea why they are makin them round? Stronger? I know they will be a biger pain to put on the turbuckles. I'll probably get some of the white plastic stuff so I can die it red. lol

[Casper]

I think it is round to make it stronger. Racers edge make a great tool to hold onto the ball ends. It makes life a lot easier for this task.

[MikeWz]

GS-Yeah the Ofna 063 pipe is what I'm gonna be running. However I'll be sporting the OS .21 RG because, even with the discount, that's all I can really afford. If you can recommend any other cheap engines that'd be great

[Saboteur]

Hey mike what do you have the OS .21rg in?

P.S. Anyone interested in a Losi? Can use it for spares if you like :)

[MikeWz]

Well I don't actually have the RG yet. It'll be ordered with the Kanai. The thing is, even with 50% off it's gonna be $500 and I have like $10 now so that presents a bit of a problem. I'll probably be getting like early June. I have to wait for my friend to fix his compy before he can order anything for me

[losiguy1090]

man im jealous. im just gonna get a pcr. either that or ill try and find a used kyosho on ebay.

[LoSick]

Hey Mike, I´m gold member at tower and I´ve never received that kind of discount. sweet! 300 off was my top by getting 2500 in products. get the picco 26, it´s just 50 more than the os rg.

[MikeWz]

Losiguy-Go with a lightening Pro II if you can afford it. I think you can get a set-up with an MX-3 and Os RG for like $750. It's not much more than the PCR and it's a better set-up. The pro II actually just beat all the other buggies in britan and someplace here in the states but I forget the links. The PCR is good but ofna uses some cheap crap in their diffs and stuff

I'd get the picco but then I can't race. Only .21s at the track that I got to. :(

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- If you have to have a .21 just stick with the RG(only decent engine I can think of from tower). Wow, 50% off, I still can't get over that. I've never heard of such a thing. I wish I was that lucky. lol

LOL here are we are on the 1/8 scale thing again. You can't go wrong with a Kyosho or Mugen but I think some of the other buggys are getting right up there with those two. The new GS, the new TTR, the PCR, etc. losiguy1090, I did the same thing. I was looking for a used Kanai or MBX-5 cheap but in the end I decided to get a PCR and dropped a P5 in there. Put a 94358 steering servo in and some torsen diffs. Personally I really like this thing. The Hot Bodies LP2 is pretty good too but parts will be far harder to find. The PBS/PCR just won the 2003 Taiwan Cup, 2003 Pre-Worlds in Sweden, and the 2003 Texas Nitro Challenge. Compared to the last non-Kyosho, Mugen I had this is much better. To me it just says ready to race. Design wise it isn't too different from the MBX-5(although most companys are getting closer and closer to using similar designs). I have no problems with the drivetrain even with the P5. Some people talk about the plastics being flexible(which they probably are more so than the MBX-5/Kyosho) but kind of like the Losi when it comes down to it how much does it matter. IMO more and more of what used to be inferiour buggys are becoming race-worthy. Now that I'm done with my Ofna ad(lol) I'll get back to the XXX-NT.

I bought the rear alum hubs and bellcranks/servo saver off ebay. I'm just waiting for them in the mail now. I'll let you know what I think and when I try that alum. clutch on the track I'll post about that too.

[MikeWz]

GS-Looking forward to hearing about the clutch and the bellcranks. I'll probably be picking some up too (hey Red man...gotta have red) as long as they're decent.

I was going to get the P2 buggy untill I found out I had 50% off and why not jump on that. The PCR would cost me $500 normally but now I can get the Kanai with the MX-3, Hitec 645 servo, OS RG and the ofna 063 pipe/header for $500. Why not :cool:

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Are you getting the 645 for steering? If so, I wouldn't recomend that. I just took the 645 off my buggy and put a 94358 airtronics in. The 645 was quite a bit slower and when it was under a good load(lol, like cornering hard, when I stopped by The Dirt last week coming home from RCX) it didn't seem like it would even turn the wheels all the way. I put the 94358 in and put the 645 in throttle for now. All the difference in the world.

[MikeWz]

Isn't the 358 like $75??? I know I have 50% off...and I'm only laying out $500 for a RTR Kanai III ( :cool: ) but $500 is still a lot of money...and I need to work like all summer to come up with it. It really is that much of a difference?

[dkj-M3]

Don't skimp on the servo's if your racing. A good servo should last a lifetime if taken care of.

[MikeWz]

Okay I'll go for that then. It's like $100 on tower, so now am looking at liek $600 for a complete set-up. If I could go $650 I'd get an extra for my xxx-nt, but I don't have the extra money yet.

GS, you think the 645 would be alright for the xxx-nt? If not is there anything else that's fast and not quite as expensive as the Airtronics?

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Like dkj-m3 said you don't want to skimp on the servos for racing. A good servo will make a lot of difference. The 645 will have plenty of torque for the NT. If you want an inepensive servo for the NT the 625 is better in my opinion. I ran both on my NT and like teh 625 better because it still has enough torque but it is faster. When it has enough torque speed is what you really notice. I literally cut about 7 secs off my first race when I got a 94357 for my NT. That was dropping from a .15 servo to a .07. You could get something a little cheaper like a Hitec 5945 or something but for only $20 you get more torque and speed with an Airtronics. The buggy really does need the better servo to drive well whereas the NT will drive fine with a bit slower servo, maybe not at it's peak but better than the buggy would. JMO

[MikeWz]

Wow what airtroncis is $20??? Is that the 625 or is the 625 a Hitec? Or maybe you meant to say the airtronics was only $20 more. I dunno. Other than the uber expensive 94357 what should I get if I don't get the 645?

[Got Speed]

Yeah, sorry I meant $20 more than the top of the line Hitec which for the buggy would be the 5945 I think. Yeah, the 625MG is just a weaker, faster version of the 645MG. It's around 110 oz/in at .15. If you want to get a something a little cheaper than the 94357 for your NT I'd say go for the 5925. 127oz/in torque at .08. That's pretty good that's only .01 difference from the 94357. It is a digital servo so it will take more battery power than a standard servo like the airtronics. You should be able to find the 5925 for about $80. If you look on ebay maybe less than that.

[MikeWz]

Well if that's $80 and has less torque, is slower, and drains more power, why would I buy that :p No skimpin here
I'll have to see what I can do this summer. I may have to wait for next season to get it. I need $500 for the buggy without taking into account needing to buy new tires for the NT and the BUGGY after each race day :(

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- You were talking about a servo for the truck right? If so, the 5925 wouldn't be bad at all. Here are the specs for the 94357 and 5925(both good truck servos)- 94357- .07 sec @ 125 oz/in torque, less battery power 5925- .08 sec @ 127 oz/in torque takes more battery power but has more holding power than a standard servo.

[Got Speed]

Oh and...

For a buggy servo I would just go with the Airtronics. The 5945 is a good servo but it isn't as close in performance as the 94357 and 5925 are. Like I said above about digital servos though is that they have more holding power but take more battery power.

[MikeWz]

Thanks GS. I'm getting the 358 for the buggy. It is only .03 seconds slower but has 200 oz/in of torque. Do you think that'd be better, or would the 357 be better.
I'll get the 625 for the XXX-NT in that case. I'm not too worried about battery power. I thought it also had less torque but apparently not.

Also, not skimping on the engine for me buggy. Gonna get myself an RB S7 II :cool:

[cave]

Got Speed, You racing Saturday @ SRS?

cave

[Strike 4]

Long time no see, anyway I am having a problem with my brake linkage. It seems like one of the set screws that holds on the brake arm to the linkage that the servo is on is bumping the high speed needle on my engine so I cant get it far enough to come to a stop.

[MBX4RR]

try bending the linkage alittle

[MikeWz]

Got Speed, You racing Saturday @ SRS?

cave
Hey buddy, you ever get that 1/8th buggy you were thinking about?

[winning edge designs]

Hey guys, I haven't had much luck with those Hitec servos, but I have with brands like Airtonics, JR and Futaba. Mike, i'd go with the 358, it's gears will actually hod up better due to the torquier gearing, which adds torque as well as lessens the impact they take oddly enough......Jim

[microrcdude]

i hound out hitecs are pretty bad. it took forever for my 1/10 scale bugy to turn 90 degrees! i have since changed to JR, and i dont have any plans on swiching back.

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- The 94358 deffinately the 94357 is a good 1/10 servo but 125 oz/in torque isn't enough for a big buggy IMO. You might want to get an alum servo arm for the steering. The plastic ones can break if you hit something hard.

Strike 4- Depending on how close it is you could either rotate the carb a little bit or bend the linkage.

cave- Yeah, I'll be there. Too bad I don't have my alum hubs and bellcranks in yet.

[losifreak2004]

How's everything in the XXX-NT world here? Man this is a lot of posts!

What's up Jim?

Aaron Waldron

[L-S-C]

Hey all. In February 2001 I bought one of the first XXX-NT kits (actually bought it from Tower thats how long ago it was). I finally bought an engine for it while I was down in florida, an O.S. .12 CV-R with a slide carb non ps. Broke it in a few days ago, went to the track yesterday to try it out a bit. I love this engine, very easy to tune and makes good power! was driving it on short grass, and it kept pulling the front wheels off the ground! I've had O.S. engines before, thats why I picked this one. I look forward to racing the NT this year at my track, it should be fun. I enjoyed building this truck, very easy build.

Jon

[losifreak2004]

Glad to hear you like it!

Aaron

[ross]

Hey all. In February 2001 I bought one of the first XXX-NT kits (actually bought it from Tower thats how long ago it was). I finally bought an engine for it while I was down in florida, an O.S. .12 CV-R with a slide carb non ps. Broke it in a few days ago, went to the track yesterday to try it out a bit. I love this engine, very easy to tune and makes good power! was driving it on short grass, and it kept pulling the front wheels off the ground! I've had O.S. engines before, thats why I picked this one. I look forward to racing the NT this year at my track, it should be fun. I enjoyed building this truck, very easy build.

Jon

Yep certainly is a great engine, unfortunatly mine died last race after over 1 years loyal service, superb engines they are.

[offroadcrazy01]

How come one of my tires has more power then the other,I think the right tire has more power then the left,Is this normal

[MikeWz]

Make sure your diff is tight. Don't OVER tighten it, just back it up untill it gets tough to turn.

[XXXNTMcKinney]

cave- I'd like to go check out that one at 330ave. too. That is about an hour from my house but I'd like to go there sometime. Are they actually holding races or is it just a track for everyone to use? If you go to that 8th scale track before I do LMK how and where it is. I'd like to go over there and try it out. I'd like a bigger track with bigger jumps though the track we have now is pretty fun.
Hey thought I'd let you guys know there is another track on Mill and southern Called HOBBY ACTION its new but hes got a nice indoor carpet track for on road and a outdoor off road track. And the store has the most losi parts I have seen in the area, 4 times the siz of SRS. But I still like SRS's track! L8tr. :D

[Got Speed]

I had some problems with my slipper nut backing off last night but after I took care of that I could really feel the difference in these clutch shoes. Much snappier. They grab harder and faster than the stock shoes. I wouldn't suggest these on a low traction track but if you plenty of traction these would work very well. Great for just grabbing the throttle before a jump. Still waiting on my GPM parts though.

XXXNTMcKinney- Yeah, I've been over there once. Do you race over there or at SRS? I've been racing at SRS and may go to the Nitro Nutz track in Goodyear for my 1/8 scale.

[losiguy1090]

sorry i havnt been on in a few days, i was in seattle. i decided to save up a lil longer and get an mbx5 or the new hb. ive got a radio so ill need,

the car[really?]
engine
servos
reciever
exhaust system
tires
and i have 30 fuel and all the other stuff so i think thats it.

[MBX4RR]

My Hitec 645MG just died today :mad: I was just driving and all of the sudden it stopped steering. I took it apart and the gears were fine, I guess it was fried on the inside:(

[Scrad]

I was just wondering what starter boxes everyone is using. I had to use my dynamite one for my touring car, so I'm looking for a different one. Prefferabley one that can handle a 1/8th scale too.

[losiguy1090]

i hear the AE box is pretty good. really versatile too.

[MikeWz]

Get the ofna pink box. That 12v motor will turn over ANYTHING

[winning edge designs]

Scrad, I use a blue ofna box, but any box with a fullsize motor will be your best bet. Basically a motor about the size of a 110v drill motor or so, the 540 and sometimes even the 550 dual motor set-ups seem more sensitive to loading and just don't make the torque.....Jim

[Scrad]

Could you guys give me the part numbers for the Ofna's, so I know exactly which ones I'm looking at.

[Saboteur]

Anyone run the alum arms on their NT? Im thinking with a hard enough impact they will rip the kingpins right outta the plastic part on the front end they slide into. Its either that or just keep using standard parts. Is there any part on the truck I should purchase something alum for like the hubs? Gonna pick up some Titanium turnbuckles. Leaning towards keeping the NT due to funds at the moment.

[Casper]

I run an alum front bulkhead (for weight not strength) and the alum rear pivot block (for strength not wieght! :) )

If you are purchasing titanium turnbuckles look into getting the lunsford super duty tie rods. If you get the Set for the RTR you can use Losi RTR ball cups which works great. If you like captured rod ends you can the the standard superduty tie rods and use traxxas captured ball ends.

[Got Speed]

Scrad- I use the Ofna pink box for my NT and the blue box for the Hyper. Ofna #10250 and #10255. Any box with a good full size 12V motor is good. Any with the 750 motors have good torque but will burn up when it is really loaded down. Look at the XTM box it has the large 12V motor, an actual switch(not a washer and two metal contacts), and it is much cheaper than the Ofna box.

Sabuteur- I've seen other people running all aluminum stuff and they bend the hinge pins alot. Sometimes the arms but the hinge pins are usually the next weakest thing.

losiguy1090- I would just get the MBX-5 if you are going to spend the money anyway. It will be alot easier to find parts for than the HB and it's already proven(though I bet the HB is a great racer).

[losiguy1090]

but the only thing is the mbx5 will cost me about 200 dollars more. the hb is a great car, its already proven itself and i dont think its even out yet! ive decided on the hb for now unless i can find a used x5 or k2 on ebay.

[MikeWz]

The HB 2 is out yet and it's supposed to be an awesome buggy. Before I kinda dumped my budget and decided to go all out I was going to get an HB 2. Some guy in England just won the Bristish Champ over there and only got the buggy like 3 hours before the race. It also won another big race but the name of it slips my mind at the moment. Oh well. It's a good choice

As for engine, if you can afford it get the S7 II, if not go for the S5. RB makes an AWESOME engine....as does sirio but RB has a bigger name...apparantely for good reason too :cool:

[losifreak2004]

offroadcrazy - To check a diff with it out of the car, put allen wrenches through the slots in the outdrives to help hold them, and try to turn the gear; if you can, the diff is too loose. The problem you're describing sounds like the diff. Take it apart and make sure everything is ok.

I use the blue Ofna box that Jim mentioned.

Any crash that will break a plastic arm will bend an aluminum one, which means your $20 arm is useless. Aluminum pivot blocks are a good idea though.

RB has been around forever, that's why their name is bigger. Sirio just won the 1/8th scale on-road Worlds, the class which relies most heavily on motor...Andrea Rossi knows what he's doing! The green-headed Kanai Edition Sirio is a screamer!

[LoSick]

losiguy, amezcua won the nationals with the hb2 then unreleased, seemed a winner already! as for engine, if it´s as the .12 evo that I used on my nt, must be sweet. and I have not tried mine with a turbo plug yet.i´´m getting the turbo one for my tc3. too bad losi hasn´´t released a nitro xxx s!

[dkj-M3]

got speed, do you have a part # for the gpm 1* hubs? I've been looking all over for them.

[Got Speed]

losiguy1090- Yeah it's a great buggy. It's been winning some races along with the PCR out of the states lately but I think if I had a choice I might go for the MBX-5 because of parts availability. I didn't know the HB had come down so much since it was released though. For $200 less than the MBX-5 I don't know what I would do. lol Like MikeWz said the WS7II would be a better idea. The S5 should have just a little more torque but the WS7II shines in all the other ways. Nothing touches big block RBs for tuning ease and reliability but I would also suggest the Novarossi P5 or 421B. The P5 has more bottom end than the RBs yet still good top end. The 421B is supposed to be similar to the P5 with a smoother powerband.

dkj-M3- I don't know of anyone who sells GPM stuff except GPM. Their web site is www.asiatees.com or you can get their stuff off ebay cheaper. Just search for XXX-NT Aluminum and you'll see his stuff. I think he also sells the parts in blue, silver, and green(I was tempted to go for the green myself, lol)

[losiguy1090]

do you know where i can find a p5 cheap? i dont wanna spend a ton of money.

[dkj-M3]

thanx

[Got Speed]

losiguy1090- I got mine from www.affordablenitrotech.com for $240 shipped. I don't know if they still have them though. They had the Top version of it. You could also look on ebay. Sorry I don't know for sure of anyone though. Once I broke this thing in I couldn't believe the bottom end this thing had coupled to my Ofna 063 pipe. It really put the power out and even did decent on top too. Awesome engine.

[losiguy1090]

thanks, i saved that sight to my favorites for when i need it. how much did your whole setup cost you and what was it?

[Got Speed]

losiguy1090- My whole setup with servos, buggy, and engine cost me $300 Hyper PBS/PCR, $240 P5, $100 for 94358 and 645MG servos. Everything else was just parts and stuff.

[MikeWz]

GS- How does the P5 compare to the WS7 III? Btw, check yer box :p

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- The P5 will have more on the bottom and the WS7II will have a little more on top. There is the 421B too which is supposed to be similar to the P5 but with a smoother powerband.

[MikeWz]

Well I'm getting the RB Concepts 063 pipe. You still think it's a good idea to get the P5 with that, or will it open up the bottom on the WS7? Also, do you know where I can buy JP modified engines?

[Got Speed]

It will cause the WS7II to have more bottom but it will bring even more yet out of the P5. I'm running a bottom end pipe on mine(Ofna 063) and for the tracks around here is is great because I could never use the top end. It still has decent top end but not the explosive power on the bottom end like this. I've driven an MBX-5 with a JP mod P5 and it seems to have a some more power on the top but everything else isn't really affected much. I don't know where you can get one though, sorry.

[MBX4RR]

Here's a website that carries JP modifieds http://www.nitrohouse.com/jp_modifieds.htm

[MikeWz]

All there stuff is call for price :o
Not really sure how I'd go about ordering one of those. There's one site that has the Moded P5 for $476

GS-The thing about the JP P5 is that you get a bit more all around and you get better run times too

[MikeWz]

Sorry guys for the double post. GS, is this the Rex version of the P5?

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_217_218&products_id=4059

[Casper]

No-- the P5 does not have a the intake back plate. This is a different Nova rossi 21 motor. It is a short stroke motor.

http://www.novarossi.it/motori_ing/21/rex/br21b-bk.html

[ross]

I dont know why the forum keeps sending me reply notifications for the 1/8th buggy forum it should be for the XXXNT forum, Oh yea it is! :rolleyes:

[Casper]

I dont know why the forum keeps sending me reply notifications for the 1/8th buggy forum it should be for the XXXNT forum, Oh yea it is! :rolleyes:

I hear you! What happened to talking about the XXXNT!?!?!?!?!?

[Got Speed]

Anyone ever have a head bolt loosen? It happened to me saturday when I was racing. It was being a real pain to start and I didn't check the head bolts till I got home.

MikeWz- That was the Top version. I found somewhere else that is porting P5s that had a lot of great feedback. He was doing it for $100. He was set up at the Nitro Challenge too. From what I hear he does a great job on them.

[MikeWz]

That was the TOP version not the REX version? They have one listed under TOP that's exacly the same thing but with a black head and cost $20 more. I still think I may do that JP moded P5

Anyword on the GPM parts yet?

[losiguy1090]

id reccomend not getting the jp. i was reading rcca's interview with chad bradley and he said he likes the reg. p5 better cuz its easier to tune and more reliable.

[Lord Hobbes]

couple of ?'s for u guys: what weight shcok fluid do u use? i got the stock 30wt that comes with the xxx-nt sport (i got the ARTR, and swapped the engine for one i got for 20 bucks, and added my old radio) and it seems like it rides like a luxury lexus, rather than a racing truck. also, my fuel tube wraps kinda tight around my engine, would that affect anything? i do have part of a sock between them, but it seems my fuel is boiling before it gets to the carb. i dunno, maybe im just stupid.

another thing - my fr-12 that i got for 20 bucks (heh, sell it to u for 100 :) ) its been ported on the sleve, does that make it illegal to race? and when i move the piston up slowly, i can hear air escaping down between the piston and sleeve. is this normal?

[ross]

Lord,
I mostly use 30wt oil, although the tracks I race on are alot different to what you would race on. Try using a longer peice of fuel line so it isnt has tight agaisnt the engine, although it shouldnt affect anything really.

GS,
No I havent personally but funilly enough a friend at racing did on Sunday too. I wouldnt want to threadlock them has if they are to tight you might end up stripping the heads out and they are then a nightmare to get out.

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Yeah, I got the Top version(black head). That was the only one they had at the time at it was $135. At the time he said I got the last one he had so maybe he got the Rex version in and changed the price or something. I don't know. Since there isn't any difference other than the cooling heads just get the cheaper one. Oh, and like losiguy1090 said(I completely forgot about it), I was helping my friend tune his JP and tuning did seem more sensitive and was not as stable as my P5.

I havn't gotten the GPM parts yet. I just got a confirmation of them being shipped on the 3rd(I don't know what took him so long). So they should be here sometime in the next 5 days.

Lord Hobbes- What kind of track do you run on. I run front- 30wt oil, 56 piston, and red springs, rear- 37.5wt oil, 55 piston, and red springs. I run this on a hard packed, high traction track with a fair amount of small ruts. The engine won't be illegal if it is a .12, has only 3 intake ports, and the exhaust port is not higher than the legal amount. Roar's web site has all the rules for everything. My fuel line runs right against the back of my engine but I have some of that heat resistant tube(don't know what it is really called) on there. In the past I've had it right up against the block in between the carb and the block but never had any problems with it. It shouldn't be a problem unless it is burning your fuel line.

ross- lol, I've never had that happen before. Most of the time they are harder to take out after running it. It would run alright once started but it was a pain to start. At first I thought it needed rebuilt, but compression was still good, then I thought maybe my fuel line or tank was leaking.

[Dnmeistr]

Do any you guys who have a XXX-NT also have a Mugen MST-1 or seen one run, the Mugen has been out for a while now and would like to know what you think of it. Judging by the posts on the Mugen board it does not seem to be nearly as popular as the NT. I have a RTR XXX-NT and have a chance to snag a used MST-1 at a good price locally, if nothing else at least I could use the Mugen engine on my Losi :)

[Casper]

The MST is a good truck. The front end is a little weak and parts can be difficult to find. The larger shocks are good and bad. They have good damping ability but maybe too good at times. It is a good truck overall that had some quality issues in its early runs but Mugen has been fixing it up and it is a strong truck. Due to parts avaialbity it is not as popular as the NT and the GT.

[MikeWz]

If you can pick one up for cheap I'd say go for it. It's really not a bad car. They had a problem with the bones breaking but apparently they fixed that. You could always sleap the MT12 in the XXX-NT, and if the XXX-NT is broken for a race you could always switch the engine over to the MST and race that

[Got Speed]

Dnmeistr- I've seen them run and talked to people who own them. The truck is very similar to the NT. The damping is a bit too heavy since it has 1/8 scale shocks but all you need to do is drill out the piston holes. It is designed and handles very much like a Losi. It is not as popular as the NT or GT because parts are harder to get.

[losiguy1090]

mst1 is a great truck. ive never driven one but i hear they handle like butter and they just float over the jumps and bumps. kinda like the xxxnt :p

[Dnmeistr]

Thanks for the replies, now back to the NT :) I took the truck out the other day and noticed there were no brakes. Turns out the brake disk was broken up and the hub where the pin rides is a little stripped. Does Losi or the aftermarket have a better brake setup, so that this doesn't happen again.

[Casper]

I am not sure of any aftermarket break parts other then alum or titanuim break hubs that trinity makes.

[losiguy1090]

its also possible you have your EPA set too high so its placing too much stress on the break. try 95 or 90%

[MikeWz]

Penguin R/C makes a Carbon Fiber disc. I run it on mine and I really like it a lot.

http://www.penguinrc.com/products/losi.html#xxxnt

[Dnmeistr]

Thanks, I'll upgrade to the aluminum hub and CF brake disk. Turns out my next door neighbor has a GT that he has pulled out of hybernation when he saw me running my NT, so finally I'll get to compare my NT against the competition, that is once he gets it started :)

[winning edge designs]

MST-1, hmm, i'd buy it if it's about what the engine costs new, or less, make sure everything is in decent shape and E bay the truck after seprating it's power plant, :).......Jim

[Lord Hobbes]

thx guys, cars been running good lately, especially after i extended my antenna wire and reset my brakes (i got the cheapest radio futaba makes, its got reversing AND trim!!! :p )

ok, questions. me and my friend are pyro's we want to bolt my mach 15 to a piece of wood and do stuff with it, so do i need to strap a header and pipe on it? i kno ill have an issue with fuel pressure, but im just wondering. if it doesnt work, weve got an old leaf blower.. heh.......

ok, new ?. starter boxes. i need one. dont got one. whats the best for the buck. i got like 60 bucks give or take. thx

[Got Speed]

Lord Hobbes- Go on ebay. You should be able to get an Ofna 10250 or 10255(the 1/8 scale boxes with the large single motor in them, one is pink the other is blue). There is also the 1/8 scale XTM box that is good too.

[MikeWz]

GS-is that blue box too wide for the xxx-nt? It may be a better idea to go for the pink one. If you ever decide to go on-road (whether you're considering it now or not) it won't fit on the blue box. The pink one will sit your truck, a buggy or any on-road. It's pretty much good all around

[Casper]

I use the blue box for my NT. It works AWSOME!!!!! The blue box will not fit the GT though. The NT is just wide enough for the box though and it fits on there real nice.

[LoSick]

trinity makes the hub in blue aluminum, that should do it

[Got Speed]

Like Casper said it fits fine.

[winning edge designs]

OOOOooooooooHHHhhhhhh, blue parts, arrggghhh!!!!............I like blue, but man, haven't we had enough of it yet?..LOL, Jim

[MikeWz]

Haha, that's why GS and I are going red :p

Does anybody know what the difference between Teflon, Red Rulon and Carbon clutch shoes is?

[Got Speed]

WED I think GPM makes green too.

[MikeWz]

GPM makes every freaking color in the rainbow and more. Green, Yellow, Red, Blue, Silver, Black Gold (not sure what it really is, I think it's like charcoal) and I'm sure there are some I'm leaving out

[losiguy1090]

they also make purple

[MBX4RR]

yeah not to get off topic but i made an entire GT out of purple aluminum. I also made the chassis plexy glass, so you can look from under neith the chassis and see through :)

[losiguy1090]

woulda been cooler if it was a xxxnt :p

[Got Speed]

I was going to go for the green but I've already got the red ball cups, fuel line, body posts, zip ties, and wheels so I stayed with the red. lol

[cave]

GS
you racing tonight?

[MikeWz]

Cave-do you run a 1/8th buggy?

GS-I was actually gonna go green too, but I wound up in the same boat. Last season I bought all the red francis stuff, and even anodized the head of my new MT12 Red...so I can't go green now :p

[Got Speed]

cave- No. I'm still only racing every other week. :( Next week I am going on thursday instead of saturday because on saturday I'm going to Nitro Nutz for a while.

MikeWz- lol yeah, green would be sweet but too much trouble now. Besides red is still good.

[MikeWz]

yeah dude, green would be totally awesome. I'm a big fan of red though. There's def a shortage of nice red parts. I'm glad GPM does them up real nice. Any word on the GPM parts you ordered? I'm a full set of aluminum arms for my Monster GT. They were only $60 directly from GPM. It's a lot cheaper directly from them, but you can't order XXX-NT parts directly from them :(

[Got Speed]

I got home today and found a note saying they tried to deliver them but I wasn't home. I guess he has signature confirmation on it. I should get it monday then I guess. I'll let you know.