Team Losi XXXNT forum v8.0

[Saboteur]

Grrr. The threaded rod installed between the two ball cups that connect to the steering servo horn and the steering linkage keeps stripping out the cups. Anyone know any durable cups for it because my hitec keeps having one end rip right out. When I do have it set right, the wheels can turn all the way to the left, but not all the way to the right when placed on the ground. This is the 3rd day I tried to fix this and its really pissing me off. :mad: LOL.

[LoSick]

rpm 4-40 ball cups should do it. I changed them and just had to cut them so they´ll fit.

[winning edge designs]

Mike, I know that carbon, teflon and rulon all have different friction qualities. Making each best for certain situations. Carbon being the most aggressive, but at the expense of wearing whatever it rubs against(brake rotors, clutch bells, flywheels, etc.)
I would guess that teflon for it's anti-friction qualities is the least "grabby" or most slippery(half full or half empty?). I also believe rulon is rubberized teflon, it should fall between the other two materials.....but this is off the top of my head, so not sure.........Jim

[cave]

Not yet Mike. Kinda expensive for me rite now. Gas is at 2.20 a gallon so that takes a chunk of change out of my buget!!!
Tony, my nephew just got one from a friend. I may just have to "CAVE " into buying a used one. :)

[MikeWz]

Jim-I'm running a buggy on a Clay/loam mixture track. It's a hard packed base with a loose loamy top. What would you say would be best? Rulon?

[L-S-C]

Hey everyone. I've heard there are 2 different types of gas tanks for the XXX-NT, the old style like mine, where the preasure nipple is on top of the tank, and a newer style where the preasure nipple is on the filler lid. Does anyone know the part # for the new style tank? My truck seems to be really hard to tune lately and I was wondering if the tank I have now could cause this? It's frustrating. It's got a .12 CV-R and I'm running trinity 20% platinum horsepower fuel. First time I've ever run this fuel too, but I broke the engine in with it.

Jon

[dkj-M3]

the new tank has the same part #. It was just a rolling change until all the older tanks are gone. If you LHS doesn't have the new tanks have them order one for you & it should be the newer version or call Team Losi directly.

[L-S-C]

Cool thanx for the quick reply dkj-m3!

jon

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- Is your EPA set too high? Is your servo saver loose enough?

cave- What buggy did Tony get?

L-S-C- I had the same problem when I a couple months after running my NT(lol, exact same setup too). The tank should help the problem.

[winning edge designs]

Mike, i'd run the teflon shoes with a 3/32 diff ball inserted from behind(drill a 3/32 hole and use a tiny bit of C/A), or the rulon if the track is a little rough, on a loose track like your describing. This is a guess for your track, but I usually run a loose spring/heavy shoe for smooth and low bite tracks and a stiffer spring for high bite or rougher tracks. Basically, car or truck, on a loose track you want to get the vehicle moving a bit, before the engine hits it's "power band". This makes it MUCH easier to drive.......Jim

[Saboteur]

Got Speed- I believe all the functions on my radio are maxxed. However even with slight steering now the threaded rod pops right out of the ball cup. It's really got me upset now as I'm not able to drive it in the meantime. Ball cups swapped from another rc vehicle didnt work either.

[thedominator]

I have a xxx-nt with the original kit pipe that has the rubber stinger. I was wondering if getting the Adam Drake pipe would make much of a difference over the original kit one?

[MikeWz]

It would definitely make a difference. Another pipe you may want to check into, although a bit more on the expensive side, is the Fantom pipe. They make a single chamber torque pipe and a dual chamber rpm pipe. They're AMAZING :cool:

[L-S-C]

OK it's gotta be this stupid fuel tank. I tried all day to tune this thing and it did the same thing no matter how much I tried to use the hsn and lsn to tune out the damn cutting out. Roll on the throttle nice and smooth and get to about 1/4 throttle or so and it sounds like it would wanna cut out, so I would have to let off right away or it would day. Sometimes I might get it to 1/2 throttle before it would do it. It's gotta be something to do with this tank, the fuel tubing is brand new, new glow plugs, nothing would cure it. Kinda hard to start also, I'd have to crack the throttle past the idle setting to get it going. It's an odd problem I've never experienced before on a nitro vehicle.

Jon

[Racin Rev]

It might be but you can test it easily by blowing back through it and seeing how much resistance there is. then make sure your pipe line isn't blocked (sometimes it can get pushed to far into the pipe). dollars to doughnuts though it is a carb problem. if i were to guess i would say you are either way too rich or way too lean (most likely), or in your frustration, both. if you can roll into the high speed setting i would discount the low speed setting. I had a lot of this kind of problem with my hyper 8 port until i threw away the carb. return to your stock settings and start over. btw what engine are you running?

[L-S-C]

o.s. 12 CV-R. just broken in, just started acting up a couple weeks ago

Jon

[Got Speed]

I got those GPM parts today. I'm pleased with them. The quality is just as good as Trinity's. The holes are threaded too so it is alot better than just sliding them through a hole. One thing I didn't like though was that the rear hubs have the spacers built into them so you can't adjust the wheelbase. I'm going to take the dremel and cut them off so I can adjust it the normal way.

[cave]

I want to see those rear hubs GS. Too bad yur not racing this Saturday. Are they like the Original ones . can ya post a pic?

cave

[winning edge designs]

L-S-C, i'm not sure what kind of experience you have with the gas stuff, but i'll post this just in case.....It sounds like you may have a too rich low end(LSN) and too lean top end(HSN), either that or your correct about the tank......But when you need to hold open the throttle to start it usually means too rich, since an open carb without a running engine allows more air then fuel until it starts and gets exhaust pressure, etc. Maybe this will help?....Jim

[Got Speed]

L-I-C- You sure it isn't an air leak in the engine? Try tuning like Jim said and also replace the tank. It is most likely the tank though seeing as how it is the old style tank.

cave- Yeah, I'll post a picture here in a few minutes.

[L-S-C]

I have re-set the needles a couple times, I also sealed up the engine before I even broke in the engine. I bought a Drake tank off the auction site last night, so I'll prolly have it next week to try it out. I'll keep at it though, it's just a little frustrating for me. It's just weird for me because shortly after breaking in the engine, I leaned it out a little bit and the truck was running great, lots of power. Just one of those things I guess..... :rolleyes:

[Got Speed]

I don't have any programs on my computer right now to edit my picture. So I can't post it. I can email it to you if you want. It is the same as the stock ones. It is cut a little different but it is almost like the stock peice and it is a 1 deg. hub.

[Saboteur]

Hey guys, someone wants to trade me a Kyosho 7.5/Kanai for my Losi less radio gear, TL-01 RTR and the MT12, someone wants to pay me cash for my Losi (RTR), and one guy wants me to buy his Mugen MBX4rr for $200 less radio gear, engine and pipe. What do you think? Go for the Kanai?

[losiguy1090]

kanai!

[dkj-M3]

GS you have that part # for the 1* I could not find it on the site.
thx

[MikeWz]

Sabs, the Kanai is top dog. If it was an MBX5 it would be a tought decision. But in that deal I would say without a doubt take the Kanai

DKJ- it's www.asiatees.com

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- Go for the Kanai. Make sure you know what your getting into though. When trading it is pretty easy to get scammed completely or get something that is thrashed to death.

dkj-M3- I don't think he has a part number for it on his web site. Here is a link to it on ebay which is where he sells a lot of his stuff. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49217&item=3191887859&rd=1

I got this picture from his auction off ebay. Somewhat hard to see through the bag but you can get the idea. If you see on the ends the spacers are part of the hub so it is non adjustable. When I want to adjust that I'm going to take the dremel and cut them off.

[Saboteur]

Yep. Kanai it is. He is sending me his vehicle first though btw. I'm not sending my stuff till I check everything out and make sure things function properly.

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- That's an awesome deal. Now since you don't have to spend all that money on a new Kanai go buy another XXX-NT. lol J/K

[Saboteur]

Maybe I will later on if I'd like to race in both stadium truck and 1/8th in the future. Then I'd get the drake. For now, its just cruising around and admiring the vehicle. Just hope this dude gets back to me before someone else comes along with another kyosho, Mugen or GS buggy.

[winning edge designs]

Sabotuer, just be ready, since the buggy will set you back about $70 for a set of tires and wheels! It's a ton of fun, but not for light of wallet.............I have watched a guy go out with a $500 hand massaged .21 and have an air filter come off furing it's first weekend....Oops, $160 for a piston and sleeve!........People say gas is cheaper, but not once your in the .21 zone...........Did I mention how much of a blast they are though?....LOL, Jim

[Saboteur]

Well the guys didnt show up online nor sent a reply so its back to buying my friends MBX4xr works rolling chassis for $200.

[cave]

I 2 want the part # for 1° hubs GS:)

[cave]

The cost is what keeps me from going 8th scale. Ive seen guys at the new track burn up new tires in a couple of heats. The rims seam to take most of the abuse and your wallet finds that out quick. They do look fun tho. Did I mention my Boat? Yea thats fun too :) :D Too many toys , not enough time to play wit em all.

cave :)

[Got Speed]

Saboteur- I would not suggest the MBX4 XR works. It's a decent buggy but IMO you can get that level of buggy in most of the non-Mugen and Kyosho kits now. Like the HB LP2 or the Ofna PCR. I've also seen some awesome deals on rollers on ebay if thats the way you want to go.

cave- I don't think they have a part number for that. I don't know what's going on with that but I got mine from him off ebay.

[Saboteur]

Yeah. I feel sry to turn my friend down as he even trusted me with it and lowered it from the $278 to $200. Atleast he has other people who are willing to buy it from him though. I'm trying to earn myself a buggy as well as keep some $$ in the pocket. Don't want to buy something costing me $400 bux or more and still have the NT and TL-01 lying around. Either these guys who are willing to buy or trade keep in contact and stop holding up, or I'll buy myself an Ofna MBX pro rtr or HB lighting rtr and be done with. Something cool to skip around with; nothing serious. I'm really hoping this dude who wants to trade the Kanai gets on sometime soon. :(

[MikeWz]

Sabs-Since you're not going to be racing, why not just go with the Hotbodies Lightning RR? It's an excellent buggy, and at $300 rtr you'll still have $100 left over from what you're asking. The engine is great and the radio gear isn't bad, but I'd recommend getting the 358 Servo for steering. I hear that the steering servo tends to crap out, but I guess that's the case on a lot of 1/8th RTR buggies. They give you that cheapie stand steering servo

[Saboteur]

I'll prob have $35 bucks after buying the HB lightning rtr. I hope someone buys my gear. These people who offered to trade or buy something havent responded yet. Oh well. I liked the Ofna though since the engine has a lot more umph, still a great buggy, and I'd save some $$ at the time. I don't want my mom to find out that I've payed nearly $300 for something, hardly much money in my pocket, and still have all these rc's lying around. Plus I don't want to be broke again like the last time when I bought the starter box. It certainly wasnt a good feeling nor any fun. For now, just gonna use my 625MG servo.

[Got Speed]

I'm with you there. Everything is so expensive. :rolleyes: But what would I do without it. hmm, legos, lol :p

[Saboteur]

Yeah. I'm waiting for the dude with the Kanai. If the deal works out, I wont be buying any other rc for a long time. Thats all I'd run. :). Same even with a sport level rtr atleast as I've really got the bug for a 8th scale buggy. My trusty 3pdfx will control it along with the ofna 1200nimh pack to give the servos power. I'd still be happy even if its an Ofna MBX pro. Simply use my gear and rip out the radio gear. My goal is to just get an 8th buggy; something affordable and decent for little romps and so on. Not going overboard and spending $400-$500 that should be for track use. Don't care if what I'll buy hasn't wont races; I won't be racing for some time anyway.

[losifreak2004]

Well, the 2004 ROAR Nationals brought some good news and bad news.

Bad news (not really "bad"): Jared Tebo continued the GT's win streak, and TQ'd and won the Nats in convincing fashion.

Good news: I bumped up from the B-Main into the A and finished 9th!

[losiguy1090]

sweet dude![about the bump up]

wut do you mean the gts win streak? xxxnts been winning almost everything?

[Dnmeistr]

I want a new engine for my NT but do not want to spend more than $120, any suggestions. If nothing else I'm thinking an OS CVRX. Thanks.

[MikeWz]

Well, unfortunately that doesn't leave much of a choice. You can get a Fantom FR12 with pull start for like $140. They have the non-pull motor for $120, but if you don't already have a starter box that'll set you back about $50-$100

[losiguy1090]

a fantom .12 would prolly be your best choice. its a lil more than wut u want to spend but IMO its worth it. run it at 240, any lower then it will wear out quickly.

[Got Speed]

A CV-RX is also a good choice. Very reliable, very easy to tune, and make good power.

[MikeWz]

a fantom .12 would prolly be your best choice. its a lil more than wut u want to spend but IMO its worth it. run it at 240, any lower then it will wear out quickly.
do you run one at 240?
I had one of the 02's and I had to break it in at 200 and keep it at 220. If I went lower than 200 during break it she'd wear out beacuse of the ABSC. The new 03's are ABC so you should be able to run about 220. 220 usually the average temp for .12-.15 engines for racing. Any higher than 230 and you should be careful

[losiguy1090]

i run mine at 240 and have had no problems. mines an 03. i dont really care if i wreck it cuz im getting a new engine really soon. but its been running at that temp since mid last summer and its still going. not great compression but enuff to survive.

[losifreak2004]

losiguy - Thanks for the props! That was my biggest main-event so far..and it was the most important gas truck race in the world :)

Team Associated has won every ROAR Gas Truck National title since the class was invented..We'll get 'em next year!

[cabbynate]

Aaron, YOU THE MAN!!!!!! :)
I missed the mains but I heard about it!!!!!! I had a fellin when I seen your practice run you where gonna do well but DAMN!!!!!! :eek:
All I can say is YEA-YEAAA!!!! You got 'em nervous!!!!!

[losiguy1090]

losifreak, this means your name will be in a magazine :D lol ill have to remember wut place u finished in when i read a race article.

[winning edge designs]

Well, one good thing, at least the ROAR gas nats is about the only major race the GT wins, usually......Reedy, TeamLosi champs, Proline race, etc...all XXX-NT wins!....:), Jim

[MikeWz]

Aw we'll get 'em at ROAR next year. The Losi is by far better engineered than the GT. It's all about driver skill/set-up if the GT wins :p

[losiguy1090]

the xxxnt has wins just about every event so dont get ur panties all in a bunch :D

[Saboteur]

Anyone actually manage to fit an engine with SG crank in the NT? Thinking of selling my Sport NT with MT12 in different versions. Hopefully this will catch some eyes.

[losiguy1090]

ive never heard of anyone doing it yet. now days theres no point to try to do that cuz most high performance engines come in std shafts too. sirio evo 2, black pixi, mt12, a few re novas, etc.

[ross]

LoSick,
How are you getting on with the Sirio EVO 2?

[losiguy1090]

do you guys think that the top tn12 s2 with a rotary carb and std shaft would be overkill for my xxxnt? its basically an mr12.

[cave]

Asia Tees (http://www.asiatees.com/) MikeWz Did you ever get this site

cave

[winning edge designs]

Any .12 with rotary carb and standard crank sounds like a good engine for the XXX-Nt to me!....It seems like more of a problem running a slide carb, then which engine you choose............Jim

[Got Speed]

losiguy1090- I am not sure about this but isn't the mr12 supposed to be a top end engine for TCs?

[Saboteur]

ive never heard of anyone doing it yet. now days theres no point to try to do that cuz most high performance engines come in std shafts too. sirio evo 2, black pixi, mt12, a few re novas, etc.

I know, but currently my MT12 has an SG crank. :( Oh well.

[losiguy1090]

oooohhhh i see.

gotspeed, i thought it was too. but nitro dan has tn12 s2's with threaded shafts :confused:im just gonna get the mt12, i think the top would be a lil overkill.

[LoSick]

Ran yesterday all the morning. but this time I used the turbo head since I got the plugs. sweet noise a turbo engine! and torque and speed is noticeable when you switch heads, can´t imagine if I use trinity monster or sidewinder, for fuel, must be a beast, I´m using 18 oil and 10 nitro for the very first gallon, after this gallon racing fuel it is! got myself the mugen mtx3, nice since It has a standard shaft, will see if I get the sirio evo (5 port)

[Got Speed]

losiguy1090- I'm not sure about the tn12 s2 but if it is like an MR12 the MT12 should be a better engine. I'm almost sure that the MR12 puts out more power but it is all top end for the TCs. Kind of useless for the trucks.

[losifreak2004]

losiguy - When the mags come out, I'll be sure to come back and remind everyone..and list page numbers! :)

TC engines have more brutal low-end hit than truck engines, and that is what makes them unsuitable for gas trucks.

Associated recently was interviewing engineers, and a racer-friend of mine interviewed for the job. He was told by Cliff Lett that an engineer was being brought on board to design the new GT. My buddy didn't get the job because he asked for more money than what AE was willing to pay..they brought out some college grad from further east and is paying him less than what is considered "poverty level" in Southern California.

That said..we might see a new GT at next year's ROAR Nationals. Whether or not they have anyone to drive it is a different story..

2004 Nitro Maxx Challenge Gas Truck; Trinity-powered XXX-NT's sweep the top three!

1st Ryan Cavalieri (TQ)
2nd Adam Drake
3rd Aaron Waldron :)

Full results at http://www.pro-lineracing.com/race/04nitromaxxresults.htm

[winning edge designs]

Good job dude!...:), Jim

[losiguy1090]

lol dude. did u see ryan cav's hair? :p

[losifreak2004]

Jim - Thanks! I had to back up my run at the Nationals with something decent.

I qualified 4th and felt a little off the pace. I dropped back due to a couple traffic-induced wrecks early in the race, and went from 9th to 3rd in about seven minutes.

losiguy - You shoulda seen his hair before it started growing out..Billy Idol-style!

[losiguy1090]

lol, id like to see that :p

[losiguy1090]

i went on that asiatees w/s, wut do u guys think of that chassis for my xxxnt?

[losifreak2004]

It looks cool, but I'd stick with the Drake Edition chassis; that red is gonna look terrible after a couple of runs.

[ou_phidelt]

I just got a used XXX-NT Sport. I am having trouble mounting the electronics. I got the throttly servo in without any problem but I am having trouble with the streering servo. I cant figure out what is meant by "position of pin on servo mount post". Hopefully if I get that cleared up it will solve the rest of my problems. Thanks guys. I cant wait to get this thing running.

[losiguy1090]

thanks for the quick reply losifreak. thats wut i was thinking too.

[ou_phidelt]

oh and its an airtronics servo so i need to do option number three but I have no clue as to what it means.

[losifreak2004]

ou_phidelt - Look at the steering servo mounts, particularly the pins at each end, See how they are offset into one corner? For your steering servo, you said they need to be in position 3, so it will be like this (when looking down from the top:

The driver's side:
____
|XX|
|OX|

Passenger side:
____
|XX|
|XO|

Hope that helps

[ou_phidelt]

i take it that the O are the pins?

[losifreak2004]

Yep! The X's are the place that the pin is not.

It took me a few edits to get them to line up right.

[ou_phidelt]

thanks, ill give a shot when i get back from class in the mourning.

[Got Speed]

losiguy1090- Yeah, Losi chassis is also 7075 aluminum. The GPM chassis is 6061 and lightened at that. So I would deffinately stick with the Drake chassis.

[losiguy1090]

yea, it looked kinda cheap to me :p

[low10s]

hey fellas, does the trinity rear hub with vertical ball studs make much of a difference in handling, or is it mostly just a cosmetic upgrade. thanks

[losifreak2004]

Having the stud mounted vertically allows you to add or remove washers to alter the roll center of the car or truck. It's definitely not cosmetic, that's for sure!

Two gold washers will raise the ballstud to equal height with the stock Losi hubs; you can start making adjustments from there.

[Got Speed]

low10s- Like losifreak2004 said it can be used as another adjustment. Not likely you will use it though. Alum. hubs will strengthen the rear end significantly too.

[Casper]

The adjustment helps a lot if you ever run on a smooth blue groove type track. You will probably not notice much on the typical loose dirt track though

[losifreak2004]

Well, lowering the roll center will help the truck go through bumps better. Raising the roll center will keep the truck flatter on high bite tracks.

[losiguy1090]

well if u wanna keep the truck flat u could just add a sway bar ;) but the rear hubs would prolly be a better choice since they strengthen the truck.

[losifreak2004]

Ever tried putting a sway-bar on the back of a XXX-NT? It's a pain.

Swaybars create other affects as well, and are never a first choice when making setup adjustments.

[losiguy1090]

yes, ive put one on before. several times. its not hard at all. they work great on blue groove and any other high traction track.

[Battle Max]

hey i have a quick question im going to be picking up a xxxnt rtr and i was curious which parts are interchangeable with the xxxt( a arms, shocks etc) i have a xxxt with all the hop ups and i was thinking about buying a rtr then swap out parts from my xxxt, then give the xxxt to my little brother as a hand me down. This will definetly save me time and money rather than buying a drake edition.

thanks guys,

Jon

[losiguy1090]

the shocks, front a arms, front hub carriers, front pivot block, front bulkhead, front shock tower, steering system[not 100% on that] and i think thats it. basically the whole front end.

[cave]

I dont think the shocks will work. Hubs, the front end sept "A" arms will work. Get a drake and save in the long run. The ready to rebuild is just that. But its still better than no nitro at all

cave

[losifreak2004]

The shocks are the same.

[dkj-M3]

the whole front-end is the same except for the bottom kick plate. Same steering stuff, same rear hubs & shocks. same wheels

[cave]

My bad. Kinda remebered them being shorter. Oh well. The mind is the 3rd thing to go

cave

[losiguy1090]

hehe. wuts the first? :p

[losifreak2004]

Losi only makes three lengths of off-road shocks: .6 (buggy front), 1.0 (buggy rear/truck front), and 1.2 (truck rear).

First thing to do..eyesight? haha

[losiguy1090]

arent u sposed to be old to lose that? cuz i think im already losing it :p and i lost the memory a long time ago :D

do you guys know where i can find that alluminum clutch for my nt?

[Battle Max]

well i just got my rtr yesterday and i just finished the break in period and i love it. You guys were right the whole front end was a direct swap and the shocks and cvd's also fit. I cant wait to take her to the track tonight to officially break it in. ill be around alot answering questions its an awesome truck.

thanks fellas,

Jon

[losiguy1090]

cool, glad u like the truck.

[MBX4RR]

I too finaly got my xxx-nt running again today after a long long wait for my parts to come (alum. brake clips, comp. brake gear hub, diff balls) :D No seems to have them but the place i got them, not even horizon. I was wondering what engines you guys have? I got a Picco XP12

[losiguy1090]

for now i have a fantom .12 se 03 non ps, prolly gonna get a wasp offroad so i can control my track on the loose tracks i run on.

[Shady]

a stock OS CV, a modified OS CV, a OS CV-R, and a RB X12

[losifreak2004]

losiguy - No reason for an aluminum clutch! The stock one is great, and it holds up for a long time.

battle max - Glad you like it!

mbx4rr - Hold on to that motor! The Picco XP is AWESOME, I have a bunch of them laying around here..that just may be the best truck motor ever made, in terms of driveability and usable power.

[CTurbo]

Sirio .15 is insane. I personally use mt-12.

[dkj-M3]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGBC5&P=7

[Battle Max]

alright after hitting the track yesterday the truck held up great only problems i was having was the fuel like that runs from the gas cap to the pipe kept coming off in a roll over or crash.i straped it down with a zip tie and i had no further problems, at the end of the night i broke the rear peice thats under the transmission that holds the rear arms together. If this truck is anything like its electric counter part that part is brittle anyway and i should pick up a trinity alluminum one right????

[losiguy1090]

thats the rear pivot block. replace it with the trinity one. its alluminum and will never break.

[losiguy1090]

thanks kj

[MBX4RR]

losiguy - No reason for an aluminum clutch! The stock one is great, and it holds up for a long time.

battle max - Glad you like it!

mbx4rr - Hold on to that motor! The Picco XP is AWESOME, I have a bunch of them laying around here..that just may be the best truck motor ever made, in terms of driveability and usable power.

I know its awsome, my brother has an RB and my picco is so much better, even he says so :)

[ross]

That aluminium clutch looks interesting, has anyone actually used or are using one in thier truck right now? Ifso what do you think of it and how would you compare it to the stock clutch?

at the end of the night i broke the rear peice thats under the transmission that holds the rear arms together. If this truck is anything like its electric counter part that part is brittle anyway and i should pick up a trinity alluminum one right????

The rear pivot block is well known to break easily, most people have replaced it with the Trinity Aluminium Rear Pivot block has its indestructable. I never even used the graphite one.

[rhcsavage21]

hello i plan on getting the sirio .12 EVO2 5 port, and was wondering if anyone has heard anything about it??

[Racin Rev]

does anyone have a line on a truly great glow plug igniter? :confused: I have used the cheapo clip on ones, I have used the twist on kind with the plug for the power panel, i have used the twist on ones with the meter on top and the internal nicad i have used duratrax and dynamite and whoever makes the one for the power panel. none of them work very well. The clip on ones get sloppy real soon and the guage on the twist on ones indicates completely in the red when i have the igniter solidly affixed. It shows that it is functioning properly only when it is barely hanging on. It is a good thing that my engines fire up readily because they pop off almost immediately. :mad: the whole sordid business makes me want to sell all the nitro stuff and only run electric. any help (brand and type) would be appreciated. :)

[losifreak2004]

Rev - Trinity sells a cool blue anodized igniter with glow plug/battery meter, and a charger that clips onto a power supply or starter box. I've used mine for two years now, and it works great.

rhcsavage - It's got a LOT of power, watch out!

The part number for the Trinity rear pivot block is TK5606.

[rhcsavage21]

rock, is there a difference between that and the fantom engine?
like in power?

[losiguy1090]

oh yea. a HUGE difference.[if u havnt figured it out, the sirio is faster]

[Shady]

Rev--I have been using this ignitor since i started nitro 3 or 4 years ago, gets used on 3 trucks each weekend

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDZ42&P=ML

[losiguy1090]

jeez, 75 bucks :eek:

[ross]

rhcsavage21,
You might find the 5 port is to much power and will be difficult to control on the track especially on low traction surfaces. You would probaly be better with the 3 port which is more controllable, a few guys in here use it myself included plus drake himself. But if you feel you really need the extra power of the 5 port then go for it.

[Shady]

losiguy-i didn't pay near that much for mine, tower is pretty high on things, that being one of them

[MBX4RR]

I find that tower has some of the best prices out there

[Shady]

tower has great prices on most things but there are many things they don't

[losiguy1090]

yes, they have great prices on some items. but not all ;)

[Racin Rev]

shady,
where did you get yours and what did you pay for it?

[Shady]

i got mine from the a buddy of mine who had something like a traveling hobbyshop, I don't think he still does it anymore though....I paid about 40-45 bucks for mine

[Got Speed]

I've been of the BB for several days now after my power supply burned up(I knew that 25" monitor would be a problem, lol). So I'm probably late to some of the posts. :p

losiguy1090 and ross- Tower Hobbies has it. It is made by Hot Bodies. It will not last as long as the stock or MIP clutch and will wear you clutch bell too but it does grab alot harder. IF you run on a high traction track that could really help coming out of the corners. I run on a hard packed wet track(fairly high traction) and am not sure whether to keep using it or not yet. It makes it harder to control in most areas but sometimes I can use the extra snap.

Racin Rev- I've had problems with the alkaline ones and sometimes the ignitors with the built in NiCd battery but I've never had a problem with my glow ignitor that plugs into the power panel on my starter box. As long as the battery dosn't get real low there shouldn't be a problem.

[Got Speed]

losiguy1090 & ross-Here is a link to it cheaper than tower. If you try it and yours is anodized-like mine was-I suggest deanodizing it before running it.
Mine didn't work real great untill all of the anodizing wore off which took about 2 or 3 tanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5900106666&rd=1

[Casper]

Losi only makes three lengths of off-road shocks: .6 (buggy front), 1.0 (buggy rear/truck front), and 1.2 (truck rear).

First thing to do..eyesight? haha

Actually the front shocks are .9 unless that has been changed. The 1.0 rear shocks for the buggy where new.