Team Losi XXXNT forum v8.0

[Saboteur]

Can I swap those tiny thrust bearings from my sport NT's rear right outdrive and install several washers just like on the Drake NT kit? I'm thinking it would probably just a better way to go.

[winning edge designs]

Sabotuer, No, the tiny thrust bearings are what gives you diff action. Without them you'll have a "posi" differential and NO diff action. The washers go under the nut holder for spring tension on the bearings(thrust and diff)....the RTR comes with a spring instead, for a more forgiving adjustment range without slippage, approx 1/2 turn? The washer style springs are a bit stiffer, but have a very close tolerance for adjustment, maybe 1/4 turn from locked to too loose....Jim

[Saboteur]

Thnx. I was wondering why the kits didnt have the same thing in the outdrive. :)

[cave]

I like the washers myself. The spring seams to get loose quicker when Im racing.

GS I dont think Im going to stop racing at SRS just want to try this new track out. Its an 8th scale track so it may be alittle larger than SRS. I havnt seen it yet. I got tied up Sunday so I missed the get to gether there. Troy goes to that new track that Nelson goes to on the west side 330 ave. Its a back yard or sumptin. But tghe track is suposedly Awesome. That nelson guy is the guy who won the 1st place state nitro truck deal. later

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- I'd like to go check out that one at 330ave. too. That is about an hour from my house but I'd like to go there sometime. Are they actually holding races or is it just a track for everyone to use? If you go to that 8th scale track before I do LMK how and where it is. I'd like to go over there and try it out. I'd like a bigger track with bigger jumps though the track we have now is pretty fun.

[cave]

Got Speed I would like to race at the new 330 ave track. I here its a private home but the land is large and the guy who owns the property is set up like SRS in the racing part. I dont know if he has a parts counter yet. from what I hear he's pretty well known in the Arizona RC world. I just cant remember his name. Troy races there on Staurdays now. Racing starts at noon so if your local you get home by 6 or 7. The Tempe track hasnt been built as of today. The guy said that he and his partners want to do it right the first time. They want to make a great first impression so they dont get that LAIM track rep. I know the pust Dura trax like big time. lol. I think they get some bennies for that. I myself cant wait to see my 1st 8th scale race. I have never seen a real race between 8ther's.
You racing Saturday?

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Yeah, I'd like to go check that out. What is the other street? 330ave. and ?? Are you going there this sat? I'm going to be at SRS this sat but possibly next sat. I'll go out there. 8th scale races are fun to watch. They are amazing.

[MikeWz]

"I leave home for a few days and look what happens"(Cortana)
What's going on boys. It's been awhile. How are the races going for everybody? It's been too cold here to race and I'm too poor to buy an electric to race indoor.
Looks like the forum is slowin down :(

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Racing is going pretty good for me. I think the forums are slowing down because alot of people arn't racing. lol AZ slows down in the summer. :p

[cave]

Mike, Wuz up? The heat is definatly gone now so peps here are gearing up for the winter racing. Feels good to wear a sweat shirt. Its awesome weather to race in. Truck likes this cool weather too. Family stuff also keeps people off the boards. Tis the season for family to just show up. Holidays and all you know.

GS You racing today? Saturday 22nd

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- I'll be there. Hopefully around 1:30 or so. I've got the Sirio in my T-Maxx so I'm going to race it too.

[drdirt]

Hi Kids........It's Jimmy from Jersey........We've been real busy racin dirt ovals in Jersey and Pa. I even got a nitro sprint car to run the dirtoval.com nitro tour. That was a LOT of fun. I'm going to give off road a shot just for the heck of it Sunday at Checkerboard's in south Jersey and I was wondering if any one has tried a sway bar in the front. I designed a pretty cool one but I won't be able to try it out till practice starts and I was curious if any body had any info for me. As always, Thanks, Jim
P.S. Jim from W.E.D. I'm going to put a dirt modified together this winter and I would like you to do the painting for me if you would. Actually a new body for the sprinter and the xxxnt also so that would be 3 altogether. Jim

[MikeWz]

J.J-Sway bars are pretty usless unless you're going to be racing on a track that is crazy high bite. They are really only useful for T/Cs and for the buggies.

Cave-Yeah, I know what you mean about the family stuff. They just want a free meal :mad:

[ross]

Latest pic of my truck taken earlier today at the track:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ross2000/oswestry%2023-11-03%20015small.jpg

[MikeWz]

Ross-Nice truck. Those are some pretty hardcore tires. What kind of surface you racing on?

[RCRACER2471]

I have another question for you guys. I just finished rebuilding my diff. I replaced the thrust bearings, re- greased everything back up and put it back together. Then I started it up to test it out. It slips just as much as it did before I rebuilt it only this time when i hold the right wheel and spur gear and try to turn the left tire its hard to turn or wont turn at all. I tighened my diff all the way untill the spring was fully compressed or I couldnt turn it anymore and back out about 1/2 turn. Still no luck. What could the problem be?

[MikeWz]

Most common cause of that is too much grease. How much did you use? You're really not supposed to use all that much grease. That's what happend to me my first time too

[RCRACER2471]

Im pretty sure I didnt put too much grease on. I put a little on the thrust bearings and a good amount on the diff rings. Maybe I just put too much on the diff rings.....

[Tim'sLosi]

Sounds like a shark-toothed gear to me...I had that happen:rolleyes:

[winning edge designs]

Jim, no problem, that'd be great! Once our website is completed(redo time) in a few days you'll be able to check it out and contact me thru there. It's at the w's, then jconcepts dot net.

Ross, I haven't seen those tires for years! Wow.......Those are Schumacher tires, right? Wish I could remeber who made them origionally 10 or so years ago?

RCRACER2471, two things I noticed in your post. First, don't loosen the diff screw 1/2 turn after locking it. I usually back mine off a tick, maybe an 1/8th? I haven't had any trouble with the amount of grease, since any grease that's excess should "sling" off. Besides, if the special diff grease caused the slipping we couldn't use any no matter how little. Last, the slipper CANNOT be locked! If you lock it, the diff will slip no matter what you do! This is common, but if adjusted correctly, the diff will last indefinately and the acceleration won't be effected at all. In fact a correctly adjusted and functional slipper will make the diff last longer AND make the truck easier to drive thru rough sections and landing jumps under power.............Hope this helps, Jim

[cave]

GOT SPEED Tony and I raced at that track in Goodyear AZ. Its Awesome. Those 8th scales are awesome and fast. I raced my 1st 15 minute main. Wow thats racing. I had to pit twice. Its an 8th scale size track. The dirt is loose to loamy. Ken Guiterez, remember the guy In the State who changed his tires at the last second? He fueled my truck for me in the A main today & I fueled his. That is so much freaking FUN to race 15 minutes with fuel pits. A few peps ran out of gas even tho we all ptted twice. I got 4 place. I'm not sure who got 1st it was either Josh Nelson (who won the state) or Billy Fiscker. Billysbuddy took 3rd. It was so much fun. Its located in the backyard of this guy named Mike. Its awesome. Sorry for the long wnded post but this was my fist 15 minute A main race. I may have to think about the SRS deal. Kinda far but the racing was fun and the track is a fast yet technical track. I love the roost Our trucks through. After the race everyone was shaking hands saying nice race dude. lol. How cool is that. Even the Hackers AKA TONY lol He did good too. I gave him some of his medicine on the last swooping right. He tapped he lost the tap.lol I placed 4th.

cave:D

[Saboteur]

Nice ride Ross. Due to the fact the transportation fare's have increased, I wont be visiting the city soon and spending cash for my sedan. Decided its better worth using it for my Sport NT and TL-01 as parts are easier to obtain. It's just a 7min walk to my LHS to get stuff for the NT and a call away to tower hobbies for my trusty TL-01. I'll get a servo horn for a slide carb engine and fit the M16 in the NT.

[ross]

winning edge designs,

Those tyres are indeed Schumacher staggered ribs they work very well on the surface we race on although towards the end of the day I could have done with something harder and spikier as I was loosing grip on the front. The ones on the back are known as 'cut spikes' not made by schumacher though.

Saboteur,
I wouldnt bother coming here to buy r/c parts anyway, they are very expensive compared to US prices. XXXNT AD's are double the price over here to what you would pay.

[cave]

Ross Nice ride. Hows racing on grass? I practice a bit on my front lawn and I had tons of traction but little stearing. Great weather here in Arizona USA too. No frost, lots of sunshine.

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- How many minutes/hours would you say that track is from SRS? I'd like to go check it out. Sounds like a lot of fun. How do the jumps and the size of the track compare? How many people were out there? Do they always have 15 minute mains?

Thanks

[cave]

Got Speed Its not quite as organized as SRS. Not even close. Here's the draw, They are all cool people who run it. There were 20 of us racing. 10 Gas trucks 10th Scale and 10 8th scales racing! there were more but they opped not to race. The track is awesome yet fast. There are not to many jumps but there are some high speed straights with a heck of a wide swooping right turn into a hairpin tight right. that leads to a 8th scale type double. I made it once. There is an up hill run to a euro table top pivot turn dropping down into another tight turn Up and down then the straight there is more but well you know. 15 minute A mains 10 minute B mains. I dont know how long it is Ill email you with directions...
Im stoked about this crew. All I( knew was SRS. This broadens my horizons.

cave

[Saboteur]

Ross- Do you live in the NYC? I moved from there to Port Chester. Its about 1hr-2hrs away up north. Quite close to Conneticut actually. Bruckner Hobbies may be a good place I can check out or probably other stores thats closer to here.

[Got Speed]

cave- Yeah that would be cool to all get out there together some time. Saturday Tony said he would be going to the Nitro Challenge in Hemet CA. That's going to alot of fun. I don't know if you have ever seen there tracks but it is awesome. I'm not going to make it out there untill the 13 of Dec. but I'll be out there the following week as well(assuming they are still racing). If not, I might go out to that track your talking about.

[ross]

cave,

Its what you get used to! I havent raced on a US dirt style track so I cannot compare it but I would imagine that its quite a bit different on the set up.


Saboteur,

No I'm quite away, away from NYC. As I mentioned earlier Im in England, UK.

[MikeWz]

Ross- You can't even imagine the difference. The suspension for grass needs to me much softer due to the extra bumps (at least on the track that I raced on) and DEFINATLY the tires (as is obvious from your picture). If you ever get a chance to race on dirt I'd jump on it. Personally I like it a lot better, it's a much faster more aggressive style of racing.

[Saboteur]

My mistake ross. LOL :)

[cave]

Ross What part of England are you from? How is the weather?What does 2 liters of fuel cost?(Real car) Just currious,

GS Its a real cool track but its kinda far for me to drive to. Tony is picking up an 8th scale now. Man I cant keep up with that. If they get the track down the road up and runnin I may have too give in... What 8th scale buggy rates the best alround.? Ofna? Kyosho? any others? I wont stop racing my XXXNT, thats for sure...
I used those reptiles and they seam to hook up ok but Its a Step pin-Speed daug type track.lol I loved that roost my truck sprayed.

cave

[rccarman5]

Hey guys, i was wondering it's ok to have my diff not locked, it's tight enough so that the slipper slips before the diff. is that all i'm worrying about?

[MikeWz]

This is your diff :D
This is your diff locked :mad: :(

In other words, your diff + locked = bad. It doesn't matter that your slipper isn't locked. Back the diff out about 1/4 turn. That's around where you want it to be

[Got Speed]

cave- In comparison to 1/10 STs a Kyosho MP 7.5 Kania II(coming out with a III now) is an ADE XXX-NT lol. There are Ofnas, Mugens, and others but the top three are Ofna, Mugen, and Kyosho. Almost all the time a Kyosho is taking the win in large events. That could say that either Kyosho sponsors more or Kyosho has a better buggy. If you ask around though you will find that most people agree that the Kyosho is the way to go for a racer. However it will take you to around $750. A good race engine will take about $300. A good high torque servo like the 94358 is an absolute must for steering. 8th buggys are really fun but they are expensive to just play with and get really expensive if you want to become competetive in racing them. Does Tony know what he is going to get? Good luck with it. :)

rccarman5- Pretty much you want to have you diff almost as loose as possible without it slipping. No matter what the slipper should always slip before the diff. The differential should never be locked. It should be fairly loose but like I said never so loose that is slips before the slipper.

[ross]

cave,

Im in Central England - the bit in the middle :). Since Im not old enough to drive a car yet Im not sure on the exact price but I think its somewhere around £0.75 ($1.27) per gallon.

[cave]

Got Speed, we have talked about the 8th scale deal before. I want one but the cost right now outways the need.lol. It still may happen if I quit my job and get one that pays better. For now its on the back burner. Tony is going to race at that guys house track this weekend. I dont know what Im doing yet. Family and all you know.
I would like to cruse with you and Tony to Cali to that Nitro deal. I just have to watch my pennies. we will see.
I may take the quad out this weekend. Maybe camp in the Desert. We could build an awesome track out in the desert. Just one problem, NO WATER. LOL.

cave

[Got Speed]

cave- Yeah. I'd love to have a nice 8th buggy but I can just barely keep up with the my truck. That's why I don't race my T-Maxx every week lol :p I'd like to go try that track out there sometime in December or January. Sounds like a lot of fun. You said it is a step pin track? If tony gets his 1/8th buggy he could enter that out there in the Nitro Challenge too. Have to work on fast pits if I don't plan on making the E main.

[Saboteur]

Hey all. Went bashing at a friends house earlier. Next time though I'll bring in my NT. I decided not to get a RE engine. Instead I'll try a picco .12 ( rc speed or XP...which one is faster?), and a duratrax universal starter box (my other friend has one...pretty good). I know the .15 will give me the more bottom end, and I'm bashing but best keep a .12 incase of any chance of hitting up on a track. :) Also, I heard the graphite arms for the NT is stronger than the RTR...is this true? I tried to jump a small curb )about 2" dead on and it just smacked right into it. Cracked the right front arm a little but its too severe. Some krazy glue fixed that right up, but I know it will break again sometime.

[MikeWz]

Sab-Go with the XP-12, good engine with quite a bit of power. The graphite arms are more birttle than the stock plastic ones. If you still have the ones that came with the RTR get the regular plastic A-arms. They are of better quality plastic than the one that comes with the RTR.

[cave]

Got Speed TonyAnd I just visited the new Action Hobbies store and track. Nice store. The have Losi, AE, Mugen, Ofna,Hot bodies,And lots more that I cant remember Spare Parts. Yea Spare parts for the Mugen. Its a copy of the Losi But It has alot more Aluminum parts. The guys there recamend the Ofna 8th scales. The guy behind the counter says he builds Billy Fisker engines and The will need help building the new track. One Problem tho. Its gunna be based on an OVAL with Off road in the center. Kinda like RC Mania. yuk. You racing this weekend? I may be riding & camping.

cave

[Saboteur]

Mike, the Picco XP-12 SE? I do actually like that one better than the rc speed though. :) Know anyone that runs it?

[Got Speed]

cave- Aww, too bad they are going to the oval deal. Even if it is a big oval there isn't much room. Myself I much prefer off-road too. If I'm going to do something perfectly smooth with no jumps I'll get an on-road. They are stocking parts for the Mugen truck over there? I took a look at Ken's(dosn't he have one) and I didn't see much that was different. What kind of alum. stuff did it have different? The Ofnas are good buggys if you get the 9.5 or Hyper 7. The others are good but for racing you will want more. The Mugen buggys are great too but if you want the best out of the box many people will tell you go with the Kyosho. Best bang for you buck I would say is definatly an Ofna. They have bad customer support though. In the last Nitro Maxx Challenge at Pro Line in Banning CA 1/8 scale buggy finished like this:
1- Kyosho
2- Kyosho
3- Mugen
4- Mugen
5- Mugen
6- Kyosho
7- GS
8- Mugen
9- Ofna
10- Thunder Tiger.

That may or may not tell you alot so look at this:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=140568&highlight=Kyosho+MP+7.5

Alot of it is opinion again just like Losi, Mugen, AE. IMO the Kyosho MP 7.5, Mugen MBX-5, or the Ofna Hyper 7 or 9.5 kits(IMO the better Ofna buggy is the Hyper 7). My favorite is the MP 7.5 Kanai II. You get all the good stuff right in the box and they have great quality with their 8th buggys. But again it is alot of opinion. That thread should help you.

Sorry guys I'm off topic :p

Saboteur- I've never used the RTR parts myself but from what I've noticed they seem to break quite a bit easier than the normal plastic parts or the graphite. The graphite and the normal parts are very similar in durability IMO. They graphite is a little more brittle because of how stiff it is. If you are just bashing get the plastic because it is cheaper to replace and a little bit more durable. Graphite is good for racing because it is stiffer and lighter.

BTW: has anyone seen the new Rossi Drake engine? It is just like the normal rear exhuast one except it is side exhaust. Why would they make a side exhuast one? Surely not just for him?

[cave]

GS The Mugen spare parts seamed to provide as stock Items as follows aluminum rear pivot block, front carrier hubs, rear 0°,1°,2° & 3° rear hub carriers. These were all in stock at this Action Hobbies. There going Oval cause the manager loves the RC Mainia set up. I talked alittle smack about the quality of neighborhood its in and he took offence. I call it like I see it. The 2 times I was there, 4 cars 1 radio were stolen and 1 car in the parking lot was broken into. That was a Thursday and a Saturday. Any ways I didnt mean to stray from LOSI :D I was just so stoked that there is a track less than 10 minutes from my house. Too bad its going Oval with a tiny off road track in the middle. SRS has nothing to worry about. The manager is Kind of a Richard Cranium if you know what I mean. LOSI RULES!!!!! Ya think they may ever Make an 8th scale??? Have a nice turkey day
You racing This weekend?

cave

[Casper]

Originally posted by Got Speed
BTW: has anyone seen the new Rossi Drake engine? It is just like the normal rear exhuast one except it is side exhaust. Why would they make a side exhuast one? Surely not just for him?

Adam is just running a CX12 Nova Rossi engine. I asked Adam on another site what was different about his engine since it is the "drake edition" and he did not even know! LOL Nova Rossi has made side exhaust engines for a LOOOOONG time. Adam did say he likes the side exhaust because it has a smoother bottom through mid range and it winds out better on the top end. That sounds like what you would want from a gas truck engine since most of the time you are on loose dirt. Rear exhaust produce a bit more power but they tend to give a lot of it on the bottom end. My buddy has a Rex C12 which is basically the same engine and it has been one of the most reliable engines I have ever seen. He got if from a friend who said he put 5 gallons through it and the engine still produces tons of power and idles for DAYS! Great engine. I am trying to find one for my truck to replace my wasp that has died! I rebuilt the wasp and will use if for practice and keep it as a back up but I am looking at getting one of these engines next. We will have to see if Santa thinks I was good this year!

[Saboteur]

Another bashing done today, this time with my NT. It was quite cool, around 40-45degrees out and once the NT started it ran quite well. Lost control of the car, prob due to a worn wire or it was the batteries in my truck so it just took off. Luckly the wheels were locked to the left so it kept doing donuts. Still a bit hard to catch as it kept moving further away everytime I got close to it, and flipped itself over! Managed to turn the engine off and wipe the beads of sweat off my forehead. It still started afterwards and the fun continued for the day.
I've done nothing more to the engine that just tune it but it really screams. I cant imagine a .12cvr being faster than it ...the mach .15 that is...lol. I'd probably just get a starter box for the nitro's and a stock motor for my electric. That should solve my problems from wondering what to buy. :) Been choked up on whats a fast engine to get to fit my sedan and my truck. :o

[cave]

From what I've read and heard from this forum and the track, Novarossi and Picco make engines for many other companies that place there plack on the block. Mugen, the motor I purchased is a Novarossi. The Orion Wasp is I believe is a Picco. I just wonder if Orion and Mugen Seiki message the engines themselves or do they have there respective engine builders do it? Anyone know?

Casper what is a Rex C12? Is it slide carbed or rotary? I got 8 gallons of racing and bashing through my Mugen. I do believe what you wrote can be true. My other Mugen still holds an Idle and is awesome fast. My two stroke experience tells me its time.
Maybe this will be my next motor.

You Guys in Cali have it made! I had a great time racing a 15 minute main with pits!!!!! Wish they did that here. 5 minute mains will seam like a warm up now.

cave

[Casper]

Actually the Mugen engines are REX engines. Mugen imports the REX line of engines through Mugen USA and they just rename them. The C12 REX is a side exhaust version of the MT12.

[winning edge designs]

?, I also thought the REX engines were Novarossi too, just higher end versions?...But, i've been wrong before, LOL.

From what some of the "experts" have told me there is only about 4 or 5 engine manufacturers for most popular R/C engines. O.S., Novarossi, Traxxas, Super Tiger and Picco......There are more, but most are not mainstream. Companies like Thunder Tiger don't make thier own, but have them made by an independent small engine company in Taiwan, etc. Companies like Trinity, RB, Mugen, A/E, TL, HPI, Ofna and others use the aforementioned brands. Nothing wrong with that practice, it's usually best to go with a proven reliable source when starting a project. Even Hyundai started with Mitsubishi engines And electronics....standard practice in all scales, but of course high end companies, like Ferrari won't farm out thier engine work, :).

Cave, most likely they never even look in the factory sealed boxes since they come boxed and packaged ready for retail sale from the suppliers. The companies that know enough to "massage" them are the ones doing the bulk of the manufacturing. The exceptions are hand done engines, like O'donnels, JP Modifieds, high end RB's, Rex Mugens?, etc. Usually costing $200 or more for a .12 and $280+ for a .21...I've seen some $600 on road .21's, LMAO, good used small block chevy territory......Jim

[cave]

Muchos Gracias Casper & w.e.d. I figuered something like that. They all look kinda the same block wise. i dont know If I would change to another brand now cause I have had so much good luck with the Mugen. Altho I have seen first hand how well those RB engines run. Then again my Mugen is a hand ful.lol. Thanks again

cave

[Casper]

REX, TOP and Nova Rossi all come out the same door made by the same people. I am not sure if one is really all that better then the other. That is like saying a Mercury is better then a Ford. Same car with different body panels. RB engines are OEM versions of Nova Rossi engines. The Orion Wasp is a Picco 12. Now companies like Orion and RB get the parts built to there specifications but they are for all intents and purposes the same motors. It is like having an EPIC can and arm with your electric motor and having a "JOE's modified" sticker on the out side in stead of a "D4" sticker. The brushes and springs may be different but still the same motor. As of right now Mugen has the rights to import the REX line of motors from Nova Rossi (the parent company, again Ford is the parent company of Mercury, Lincoln, Volvo etc.) Nova Rossi are imported through Trinity and as of right now I am not sure who imports the TOP line of motors. Paris motors used to import the TOP line but they no longer do it and I have not found out who is taking over that roll. They all use the same carb's and the same case designs. Check out www.novarossi.com and look at the different motors. They all have the same specs with different colored heads!

[Strike 4]

I am selling my GT and getting a XXX NT Sport RTR, what do I need to know about this truck? Wildhobbie's reveiw said you need to adjust the diff out of the box is this true? Also it's 75 Mhz does this mean you can use FM frequencies? How's the Mach 15? How durable is the diff/car?

[Casper]

You should adjust the diff out of the box for any RTR car with a ball diff. That is just a smart practice. The RTR radion is 75 mhz but still AM. You will need to buy and new radio system to get FM. The truck is strong. It handles great and you should have lots of fun with it. If you have problems let us know and we will help you out in any way we can.

[Strike 4]

Thanks casper sorry for the stupid question this will be my first RTR...

[winning edge designs]

Thanks Casper!......I knew you da man, :), Jim

[dkj-M3]

the only stupid question is the one you don't ask.;)

[rccarman5]

Hey everyone, i just got some titanium turnbuckles for my xxx-nt online from kp-rc on ebay for 16 bux and i was wondering if 4 of the turnbuckles are supposed to be of same length? and 2 of them are supposed to be longer(rears) right?


and anohter problem, my throttle servo is acting funny, the gears are NOT stripped and after i turn it off and power the unit back on the next day, it kind of glitches when i'm presing the throttle, i have to remove it and open the cases and reinstall it and for some reason it works perfectly fine. it kinda hesitates, i knwo it's not glitching becuase my steering servo is perfect(i even swiched channels) i'm thinking i need more greese in the gears? its' wierd. also, after a while, i noticed that if i remove the linkage and give the servo a turn by hand all teh way to it's ends, and turn the unit on, it runs smoothly again. whats up w/ this? it's a perfect servo that was only used for throttle

[Saboteur]

Strike 4- You can ditch the hex nut holder, and just thread the lil hex screw onto the diff spring with a washer. I did that and used 2 screw drivers: one to hold down the screw and the other to tighten. With that setup, the screw doesnt loosen at all. When using the standard holder, it has 2 small pegs that hold it inplace to the outdrive. Thats why it loosens over time. The setup I did, comes in contact with nothing; basically suspended in mid air. Same concept applies with the hex nut for the slipper clutch. It hardly loosens due to the thread locking rubber part on the end.:)

[winning edge designs]

Sabatuer, Are you removing the diff nut holder assembly and using only a plain lock nut? You shouldn't have any trouble with a diff loosening unless you have a worn, or dry thrust bearing assembly, or worn/bad lock nut?...hhhmmmm, Jim

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by rccarman5
Hey everyone, i just got some titanium turnbuckles for my xxx-nt online from kp-rc on ebay for 16 bux and i was wondering if 4 of the turnbuckles are supposed to be of same length? and 2 of them are supposed to be longer(rears) right?


and anohter problem, my throttle servo is acting funny, the gears are NOT stripped and after i turn it off and power the unit back on the next day, it kind of glitches when i'm presing the throttle, i have to remove it and open the cases and reinstall it and for some reason it works perfectly fine. it kinda hesitates, i knwo it's not glitching becuase my steering servo is perfect(i even swiched channels) i'm thinking i need more greese in the gears? its' wierd. also, after a while, i noticed that if i remove the linkage and give the servo a turn by hand all teh way to it's ends, and turn the unit on, it runs smoothly again. whats up w/ this? it's a perfect servo that was only used for throttle


TTT

[cave]

Thats a good deal for 16 bux. I paid 35 bux for the whole deal for my drake. I cant remember how many were the same size I recall 3 different sizes. the two strearing the two rears the two front. All were different.

cave

[rccarman5]

damn i got 4 of them for the same size, this guy parts out drakes on ebay and i thikn he gave me 4 of the same size. damn wat do i do?

[cave]

not a problem just use the smaller ball cups from RPM. I swear my front ones were too shrt. I just used the longer RPM Ball cups. Just fine with em. It may be ok.

cave

[ross]

Originally posted by rccarman5
damn i got 4 of them for the same size, this guy parts out drakes on ebay and i thikn he gave me 4 of the same size. damn wat do i do?

Im 99% sure that when I built my drake the front four were the same size and it was just the back two which were the longer. So I think you have the right ones.

[rccarman5]

i got them with the ball cups(from teh drake kit) for 16, wat a deal ey.

well anyways, that sounds right because these came straight from the kit and what u bought cave came from lundsford package(little different sizes) the ball cups losi supplies are huge, so they work perfectly, except only about 6 threads threads into the middle tunruckle which can seem like a problem later.

[cave]

rccarman5 I got mine thru Lundsford as a kit for the Drake. there not the stock Drake turnbuckles. My bad.

cave

[rccarman5]

yea so tat makes lots of sense. thanks for the clear up. i thought i had the wrong one. also, can anyone answer my servo question? anyone had the same problem? (btw, it's a regular plastic geared BB servo) hitec 300BB it hink.

[cave]

I had a glitch a while ago but i tighten up the wires and rerouted the wires from my battery and that solved the problem I also replaced the on off switch. My truck wouldnt respond to forward throttle and then would go crazy. I did the switch first then the
re-route of wires. Seamed to do the trick. I didnt have a problem with the stearing. just the throttle. Try routing the wire differently and check to make sure the cnnection is in good shape.

cave

[Animeboy123]

OK i am going to be getting a XXXNT Sport RTR in a week or two and i want to know what r some of the things i should first do to the truck before i break in the engine?? I know do the lock tight with the Metal to metal contact with the screws but what else should i do to prepare it??

Thanks ^^x

[cave]

rccarman5 i took this pic of my wiring. Its not the cleanest but it works. I had it wired like the rtr I had and I had probs with it. Try to keep the wires from touching the motor. . Inside the reciever box I tied all the wires together with electrical tape between them. I can still get to the quick crystalist reciver to change freQ. I know its not a clean wiring set up but it works!

cave

[Casper]

Originally posted by rccarman5
damn i got 4 of them for the same size, this guy parts out drakes on ebay and i thikn he gave me 4 of the same size. damn wat do i do?

The Drake kit comes with 4 2.25" tie rods for the front and 2 2.75" tie rods

The lunsford kits come with 2 2.25" 2 2.5" and 2 2.75" rods. I am not sure why they are different but the tie rods you were sent were from a drake kit and they will work just fine!!!!!!

Animeboy123-- Check the diff to make sure the slipper slips before the diff does. This process has been described a lot on this thread but if you cannot find how to do it we will write it down again.

[Casper]

Cave-- I would be worried about the airtronics wire that is coming from the back. It looks like it could get in the gear mesh. I have mine zip tied to the chassis brace and have not had issues with it. Since this is just a power wire I have a hard time understanding why the routing for this wire would affect servo peformance but if you moved the routing and that solved the problem then that is all the matters right!

[rccarman5]

my wires are routed so cleanly though, u can oly see the wires comming from the battery boxx into the tranny brace adn about only sections of other wires routing into the box from the servos and the switch, i dont have any wires exposed like u have.

[ross]

Yea I have always been worried about the wires passing near the engine/flywheel/spur gear. If you go 1 or 2 pages back you will see a little pic of my truck and see that Ive mounted the battery pack on the front end of the truck keeping the wires out of way from danger. Remember if you put the battery on the front you will need to put some lead weight in the battery box to prevent over steer.

[Got Speed]

Animeboy123 and Strike 4- Check the diff and make sure it is adjusted right(this should be done with all cars/trucks with ball diffs), make sure all of the screws are tightened enough and nothing is interfering. Otherwise you should be ready to go.



Every once in a while I get a glitching problem with my throttle servos. It is only when I first turn the switch on after sitting for a few days and only glitches for 30 seconds to a minute after I turn it on. I really don't know what is causing it. I've switched crystals, receivers, servos, radios, batteries, and switches but it still does it every month or so. Otherwise I havn't had any problems with glitching due to wiring. I have my wiring going from the switch mount to the brake linkage and wrapped around it 3, 4, or 5 times and then back around the left part of the rear shock tower where it wraps around 3 times and then down to the battery box. I've never had a problem like this and the brake linkage slides through the wires easily with no problem. It keeps it away from the spur gear, engine, flywheel, and brake that way too.

[rccarman5]

thats really weird. but it happens to me the very next day. as a matter of fact, i'll check it right now, see wat happens..............................

it started stuttering or hesitating for about 2 seconds and then cleared up, i think i fixed it by removing the linkage and rotating the horn all the way to it's stops(end points) after that it works nice. but i'm thinking it just needs more greese in the gears. i've also noticed this happen only when i remove my runaway spring. i just dind't put it on because i just replaced the batteries.

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
Sabatuer, Are you removing the diff nut holder assembly and using only a plain lock nut? You shouldn't have any trouble with a diff loosening unless you have a worn, or dry thrust bearing assembly, or worn/bad lock nut?...hhhmmmm, Jim

Just the nut holder. The spring and washer I still use but also a larger nut. The stock one that it came with was worn as well as the holder. Thats why I've been having problems when I first got it. Now, problems are a thing of the past. :) Truthfully I'm still kinda lurking about for something new for my rides, and the Picco XP12 @ tower is trying to lure me in. I'm wondering if a starter box isnt necessary for bashing. I mean they can start an engine easier, and have it idling even if the settings aren't correct, but I bet most of the battery power will be wasted on an engine that refuses to start. :confused:

[winning edge designs]

Oh, I get it Sabotuer, cool. Btw, the picco engine is a strong one, but most who run it use an O.S. carb. if you like barrel carbs anyway, the slides seem good from most brands. Imo, it saves time and money to just use the whole O.S. engine though, LOL. I had good luck with the Wasp for a while, but after a gallon it started giving me trouble from the carb as most have had happen. To add a carb to it would mean $179 for the engine and $50 or so for the carb, giving me a $229 engine, so I went back to an O.S. .12TR w/barrel carb. for $129 when it was on sale, might still be?...:), Jim

[rccarman5]

damn! 179! thats crazy! iwoudl never spend that much on a motor.

c'mon, those motors aren't even worth 50 bux. i got mine for 25 bux and i'm happier than ever w/ it. its' a xtm .15 non pull start. i lvoe it to deah, the only downside is, a piston/sleeve will cost more than wat i paid for the engine. btw, i bought it brand new. lol. wat a deal ey?

well that was my oppinon.

[cave]

Like I said said, Its not clean but it doesnt glitch anymore. :D . Casper it does look like it would get caught but it stays clear when I have the body on.
rccarman5 You bumped you question earlier so I gave you an example of what happen to me. I really dont care how it looks so long as it works. I got a sleeper Banshee that people laugh at till you pull up next to me and get smoked and roosted full of sand. Then its either you pull up for more sand-blasting or race somebody who looks shiny, clean and beatable. Im glad your wire is tucked away nicely. Good luck rccarman5. 129 bux for a quality OS is awesome. Alot of the guys here have the .12cvr It hauls Keaster! It was on sale from tower a while ago. 89. bux without shipping. Awesome motors.

cave

[rccarman5]

how long do they last? i'm sure mine will last a while considering the fact that it doesn't rev past 30 K rpms.

[Saboteur]

Yeah, I'd prob look into a .15cvrx. Its at tower for $109.95 I think which is a heck of a good price. I heard some .12cvr's were fast in some NTC3's but how fast I dont know. Doubt it will have the speed I need to get around the track field at my high school.
:(

[rccarman5]

how are phantoms? any good? i was thinknig maybe i shoudl buy that engien next after my xtm or just get a Piston/sleeve.

[Strike 4]

Hey guys isn't this (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=FAN01014) a good price?

[rccarman5]

thats the engine i would be interested in.

[winning edge designs]

That price looks good, but most of those guys are using O.S. carbs as well, making it a $150 engine after swapping carbs.......Possibly they have gotten the carbs better, but I haven't heard......?...Jim

[Strike 4]

I got a question, I own a big website under construction do you think if I started a Message board for the XXX-NT/Mini T you guys would post on it?

[MikeWz]

Jim-The carbs on the '03 models are fine. They changed back to ABC from ABSC, fixed the carb problem and also ported the crank differently. The new Fantoms are really great engines. Personally, I find them better than OS. They put out just as much power if not more than the TR, last just as long and look much better.

Strike-I'm sure you'd get plenty of hits on the site for the forum. You'd just have to let us know where it is

[winning edge designs]

Cool Mike, I figured Fantom would solve any issues, they seem pretty good about that!..............I was a little dissapointed with my wasp, carb wise, after a little time it's carb gave me fits. It still is the same on thier current engines......Jim

[dkj-M3]

yeah, i had the same problem Jim, I put my old RS12 Nova carb on it, just had to take a little off the bottom & it slides right in. No more problems with it now. Race temp is around 190.

[Casper]

Jim-- The sad part about the WASP carb is that it is the updated composite Picco Carb! :mad: I just put an OS carb on mine. I have not run it with the new carb yet though.

[MikeWz]

Yeah, Fantom has always been really good about solving problems. With the new carb and porting they really have quite a bit more power too.

Piccos are notorious for carbs that aren't too hot.

[speedydave]

Anyone here have experience with both the XXXNT and the MST1? If so, I'd like to ask you/them a few questions. Thanks.

[MikeWz]

Dave-Shoot. I haven't run the MST-1 but have a buddy that does. Ask away.

[speedydave]

I mainly wanted to find out what the differences were as far as durability goes, more than handling, since I've driven both. If you or he could comment on the handling, or durability, or just general differences in running the trucks, that'd be great. I have an MST1, but I was thinking about switching because of support(both parts and setup, since there's only one or two other MST1's at my track). Most of the local fast guys run NT's, including a couple factory guys(Philip Atondo, and when they can make it, Nathan Lavery and MF), so I'd be able to find setup help more easily.

[dkj-M3]

I've heard of the dogbones snapping on more than one occasion on the MST. I have a friend that just sold his MST. When I saw it run, it looked to handle pretty good. I'll ask him next time I see him.

[winning edge designs]

I haven't run one myself, lovin on the XXX-NT too much, LOL, but I have some friends who run the MST1. Our conclusion so far is it's pretty good on smooth hooked up tracks(like most are), but suffers on rough, or low traction tracks, more then most. Probably due to the smaller team not sorting it as well as the Big players in gas truck, not sure. I know they were down to 15 wt oil at one point trying to keep it from bouncing up harshly in the rough stuff.

As far as durability, probably about the same as any 2wd gas truck. Once you have parts about as durable as an electric truck, doing 30-45 mains at 40+ mph, you'll have a couple issues if you hit stuff, LOL! I did also hear the broken axle issues, but I believe they resolved them on newer kits?.........XXX-NT, imo, :), Jim

[speedydave]

Well, of course everyone here is going to say to get an NT, lol...I drilled the pistons in my MST1 already, so I'm running closer to "normal" weight oil in it right now(30/25 Losi oil F/R). I've pretty much gotten rid of the axle problem with aluminum hexes and uprights(all you really need is the hexes)...it's just that only one other fast guy runs the truck(or, says he will be...), and parts are hard to find(though I do have access to SOME parts). I guess I should just get out there and drive a XXXNT again, back to back with my MST1, huh? :(

Edit: And the fact that the MST1's diff sucks, stock(needs modified GT diff rings to last worth a crap). :(

[Got Speed]

speedydave- I don't know much about them but from what I've seen and heard the durability is about the same. The handling is similar(other than the problem with the way-overdampned shocks). I wouldn't switch if I could get parts for it but you said you couldn't so I guess really it is just a matter of whether you want to wait on parts. THe NT and MST1 are very similar.

[winning edge designs]

Speedydave, your on to us, LOL!

Both are good trucks, as with most R/C cars, the driver and his tuning, tires, etc are the biggest factors.

For example, i've won a bunch of races in 1/8th scale running a Crono, :).............Mugen now though, Jim

[cave]

There is a Hobby shop that just open the doors here and they carry everythink for the MST1. I was so surprised to see a parts area for the Mugen. They also have a heck of alot of spares for the XXXnt. :D Lord knows I need them.
I do like the shaft covers on the shocks on the MST. The A arms seam to be a tad more beefier.

Got Speed you racing this weekend? Im fighting a cold right now so I hope I can make it. LAst weekend Scott wasnt there. I bot booted out of the A main evn tho I had 2 great Qualifiers. I got 1st in my first heat 2nd in the next. I saw the print out before the Mains and as the 1st race started Tony said I got bumped out of the A main. That sucked! Then I had a 7 second lead in the B main and when I finished I found out that I got third place. I didnt get passed by anyone. The guy said the computer was acting up and he had to go with the results. I guess thats racing. I think it sucked.

cave

[cave]

Jim You run an 8th scale? Which one would recamand?

cave

[Locus]

Anyone know if you can run HPI rims on a the XXX-NT? Or maybe a conversion kit is needed? Pics of the rims/tires I'm looking at:

[Casper]

As long as you have the correct adpater for those rims you can run them. The HPI rims have hex attachments but they come with adapters to allow you to run them with pin attachments.

[Locus]

Originally posted by Casper
As long as you have the correct adpater for those rims you can run them. The HPI rims have hex attachments but they come with adapters to allow you to run them with pin attachments.

If I decide to purchase them and they do not have the pin attachments, where can I get them? If you don't mind show me the link to the URL if you have it. Thanks!

[Casper]

I am not sure they sell the adapters seperatly. The universal rims come with the adapters but if you are buying these tires off ebay or something like that I would not expect the adapters to come with the tires unless the previous owner was already using them. If the rims are for the MT then the fronts will not work on your truck. I was assuming you wanted to get these rims new for yourself but if these are from ebay I would not expect them to work unless the seller gives you more details. Here is link to the rims from tower.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRD76&P=7

[Locus]

Originally posted by Casper
I am not sure they sell the adapters seperatly. The universal rims come with the adapters but if you are buying these tires off ebay or something like that I would not expect the adapters to come with the tires unless the previous owner was already using them. If the rims are for the MT then the fronts will not work on your truck. I was assuming you wanted to get these rims new for yourself but if these are from ebay I would not expect them to work unless the seller gives you more details. Here is link to the rims from tower.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRD76&P=7

Good deal.....that is exactly what I needed to know. Thanks for the help Casper. Do most companies make "universal rims"? Just curious so I know what to search for if I see a name brand/style I like. Thanks again!

[Casper]

HPI makes these and PEAK used to make rims for the Losi cars. I am drawing a blank on anyone else that makes rims specifically for these cars. If you will be using them for racing you will need to be careful of the offset on the rims as they may make the truck too wide.

[MikeWz]

Cave- The MBX-5 and the Inferno are the best ones out there (I personally prefer the MBX). If you can't afford something like that go with a GS Storm or an HB Lightening

[speedydave]

Bah, the Storm is what, $50 less than the MBX5? The MBX5 has tons of stuff that makes it worth the few extra dollars, anyway. Not like I'm biased or anything...;)

WED-Yeah, I've seen you posting in the MBX5 thread for a while now...:)

[Tim'sLosi]

I just got my set of replacement screws for the XXX-nt! I'm really impressed with the quality of this set for the price. I bought two at the same time to save shipping. One great thing is that they get rid of the button-heads that always strip out and give regular socket caps. It's always great to buy something and be really pleased when you get it! :D

http://www.hexcrews.com/

[MikeWz]

I've been looking for a red anodized screw set. I saw one on ebay a while ago but haven't been able to find one since :(

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by MikeWz
I've been looking for a red anodized screw set. I saw one on ebay a while ago but haven't been able to find one since :(

Yeah, that would be nice! I will email these guys and ask them to consider anodizing their screws. They would be SO much better than the typical set. TT

[winning edge designs]

Cave, the boots are on the Mugen truck shocks, because it uses thier old 1/8th scale shocks, the main reason for the over dampning, :).

For 1/8th buggy, I like the MBX5 so far, it has a little more steering then the K car and it's WAY LESS MONEY! I'm sorry to all K car fans out there, but Kyosho needs to get thier prices in line, $800 for a rolling chassis, LMAO!...You can get the X5, an engine and a pipe for the same price!.............btw, I have run Hyper 7, Crono RS01 and the 7.5, but not the Kanai, never could justify the added cost.........Still, just my opinion, Jim

[cave]

Thanks Jim & Mike. I have seen the K kars, GS storm HB and Mugens run for the first time in a real race and I was definatly impressed. I wont stop racing my Losi I just would like to race other days other than Saturday. this new place is setting up for 8th scale. Its a few minutes away so thanks for the Info guys. I Have so many hobbies now and this one is least expence.
I thought those shocks on the MST1 were Huge... Thx again guys.
cave

GS You racing this weekend??????

[speedydave]

Yeah, stock, the MST's pistons are way too small...but Mugen offers other pistons, that make it more reasonable...or you can just drill them out, like I did.

[cave]

I did that with my 20 year old kyoso Optima back in the day when they sold the kit with 3 piston options and that was it. I drilled them out so it sat like a lowrider but it was fast and stable over the rough. Yea Ive been around for while. I trip on the technology that has progressed in those years. i would of killed for a 10 minute run:D J/K Killed is a bit harsh.

cave

[MikeWz]

Anybody know of a Red rear pivot block or a red battery box? I got all the francis stuff and I don't want none of this blue stuff.

[Got Speed]

MikeWz- Go to www.fastenerexpress.com They have all kinds of ano. alum screws, nuts, washers, etc. I don't think anyone makes red pivot blocks or battery boxs. I've tried to get the red look. lol Too bad most stuff isn't made in red(except for the francis stuff).

cave- No I'm not going to make it this week. Too busy. I'm going to have to put it off till next week. I got that old dirt bike fixed up. Works pretty well now(alot better than I thought being a 78 hehe). I still need to rebuild the carb though. Are you going to be there next week?

[Casper]

Originally posted by MikeWz
I've been looking for a red anodized screw set. I saw one on ebay a while ago but haven't been able to find one since :(

Look at http://www.fastener-express.com They have red anodized alum screws of all sizes.

Got Speed-- You forgot the "-"

[cave]

GS I wont be racing on Saturday either. I need to go down to the boarder to repair my rental house. No one down there can repair anything without chargin an arm leg and more. See ya in 2 weeks. Now that you have the Bike up you and your pops has to come out and ride with us :D

Mike Look in the phone book and search for plating. Most metal plating companies have minimum charges for hard anodize layers. If you purchase a bunch of the screws you want you could have them anodized for a fee. Most companies that I worked for way back in metal plating anodize regularly so there shouldnt be a set up charge. This where it gets expensive. If you have other items you want in the same color, You should do it all at one time. more cost effective. I blue chomed all my chrome parts from my 66 Ford Mustang. It looks factory fresh. You may be able to get a few others from this site to kick in some bucks and get a whole lot more parts done...

cave

[Got Speed]

Oops, sorry. The site www.fastener-express.com
They have metric and standard sizes in red, purple, blue, and silver. Socket head cap screws, button head screws, flat head screws, standard washers, countersunk washers, lock nuts, and some other stuff.

cave- That would be great. I forgot where was it you said you go riding? We went out by Luke Air Force base last time and we couldn't find any place to ride untill we were all the way out to the mountain.

[MikeWz]

Sweet deal. Thanks guys!
Would anybody here be willing to throw in some stuff to get anodized? I'm going to do a battery box and the rear pivot block but it's not really worth doing just that stuff. If anybody is interested PM me.

[cave]

Hey GS, We ride out on the east side by Saguaro lake. There is an area near you thats called 11 mile wash but Its aweful dangerous. To congested. You could go down to the wash at 99th & camel back too. lots of family folk out there.

Mike did you get my email on the Mugen? thats cool you can get all those types of screws already anodized.

cave

[MikeWz]

Man, about 10 inches of snow today. These are the days where I miss my T-maxx :(
I can't even use my XXX-NT because I have no way to start it, and even if I did my new MT12 isn't broken in yet. B000000000

[Got Speed]

cave- We tried going out my Luke AFB at 99th and camelback. They had a fence running everywhere we could get in at with signs saying no motor vehicles. So we couldn't even get in down there. We thought about going to 59th ave. and the riverbottom.

MikeWz- How much does it cost to get some stuff anodized? Is it possible to anodize something already anodized? lol I'd love to get my Mugen head anodized red but it would be a pain to
de-anodize it. If I did that I would probably get my pivot block anodized at the same time.

[Got Speed]

Oh and...

You know you could see if anybody near you powdercoats things. I know there are several people around here that will powdercoat things. I don't know how much it costs though.

[LoSick]

Locus, Rpm rims are of better quality than Hpi, but anyway if you want to, you can make the pins for the hpi from a L wrench.Also, you will need washers for the rear ones since the space between the 10 32 locknut and the rim is too big, I have to use 2 flat washers to compensate for this.

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by MikeWz
Man, about 10 inches of snow today. These are the days where I miss my T-maxx :(
I can't even use my XXX-NT because I have no way to start it, and even if I did my new MT12 isn't broken in yet. B000000000

We have about 6"-8"inches here. Wish I had a big MT. :(

[MikeWz]

GS-I'll check to see how much it costs to anodize stuff. I dunno if you can anodize stuff that already is, but I'll check up on that too. I want all my metal stuff Red. Pivot block, Mugen Head, Battery box etc. I'm goin hardcore Francis style

Sabs-I used to have me a T-maxx. That thing hauled in the snow with the huge tires with paddles and the low gearing. I'ma have to get me AE's BFT. HAH, when I have a spare $916851265165

[Saboteur]

Mikewz- Too bad I wont be able to buy any big MT. Need to conserve my cash. I hope I get this indoor electric racing going. If not, then I'll have to wait till spring to race outside.

[losixxx213]

mikewz-everything that you want anodized(no matter if it is already ano'd or not) will have acid bath before it's ano'd. That way the anodizing will work right.

[MikeWz]

Roger that

Cave-I know you're on your second MT12. Is your first one gone yet? I stipped out my stupid shaft trying to take off the little piece that holds the flywheel on (you the bar that you screw onto the shaft right?). Well when I was taking the bar off the whole shaft came out and when I tried to take it off she got stripped...I mean I stripped it...I mean...Well you get the idea. I was wondering if you had killed the other engine so I could have it :D

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by MikeWz
GS-I'll check to see how much it costs to anodize stuff. I dunno if you can anodize stuff that already is, but I'll check up on that too. I want all my metal stuff Red. Pivot block, Mugen Head, Battery box etc. I'm goin Francis style

Sabs-I used to have me a T-maxx. That thing hauled in the snow with the huge tires with paddles and the low gearing. I'ma have to get me AE's BFT. HAH, when I have a spare $916851265165

Not trying to get off topic on here but the MGT is not really that bad for what your paying. Especially if you get it all dealer price of $420. You get what you pay for and thats some good stuff. I just got 16" of snow today using my MGT and it tore up my street. My XXX-NT was just sitting in my basement all alone....:rolleyes:

[MikeWz]

RcRacer- It's called exaggeration:
1.)To represent as greater than is actually the case; overstate: exaggerate the size of the enemy force; exaggerated his own role in the episode.
2.)To enlarge or increase to an abnormal degree: thick lenses that exaggerated the size of her eyes.

I know they "only" cost a bit over $400. But $400 doesn't just come from nowhere.

[cave]

Mike Id like to help ya but Its at OS rocket getting freshened up. It was still running when I bought the new one. I just didnt want to burn it up during the State championship race.

GS I wont be racing this coming Staurday. I have to back to my other house to replace some other stuff. Cant trust anyone down there to do the work I pay for. SO Ill be working next weekend. Yea since 9/11 any thing remotely near the Base is OL Off Limits. but there are still lots of places to ride. The west side is filling up with Homes.lol.

Must be nice to push 420 bucks for a mostly plastic un-proven MT. Id rather have an 8th scale with paddles on all 4's :D But I guess that would be twice the MGT cost huh. Its only a dream for now .


cave

[MikeWz]

Cave-It's all good.
The MGT has proven itself to me already, and I've never driven one. I've seen my friend absolutely DESTROY his and have it come back for more. It's freaking HUGE and the thing really moves too.

[RCRACER2471]

MikeWz I knew you were exaggerating and I know what it means. Im just saying thats its not the worse that can happen when buying a monster truck.

Cave- id like to know why its an unproven truck. Its made by one of the mest companies out there being Team Associated and another being Team Losi. I have one of each and I say they are both race capable trucks...

[cave]

Whoooooooooo fellas. I ment no disrespect to thos who have what I dont want. I simply whould rather get a race proven 8th scale buggy with paddles for the snow. Since I live in Arizona, the hot part I dont have the fortune of snow so that being said. The buggy would be my 1st choice.
RCRACER2471 Race proven, Hum lets see now. Its still a new truck. What breaks? What gives? Ofna and Traxxas race well here. I have yet to see a MGT race. The few I've seen seem combersome around the track compared to the Tmaxx racers that I see often. I guess I never seen one raced by the pros so Im tainted. No disrespect from me to Associated. I like the GT pro and respect thos who choose to drive them. Its an unprovin Monster truck no matter who made it. I hope when Losi makes one they learn from the mistakes that Traxxas and Associated have made and build one thats starter friendly, race ready from the box and strong enough for me to beat down . I mean drive. he he :D

cave

[winning edge designs]

Ok, i'll chime in since we're a little off topic. IMO, the MGT is a pretty cool truck, even if it does just seem like a bigger version of the T maxx, with a few tricks, or improvements. It was manufactured and biult by a company overseas, with MAJOR, possibly 100% input in design from Team Associated, just as all thier RTR stuff is (Not baggin' on AE they all practice this procedure to get the price in line...TeamLosi, Traxxas, Ofna, etc.).

This helps bring R/C racers into the industry, then someday they end up being racers, sometimes. Probably in the neighborhood of .1% end up racing like most of us.

The bottom line isn't if this truck is indestructible, or race worthy, the question is does it serve it's purpose, being a big bad monster truck, with .21 power, like litterally THOUSANDS who Never race seem to want?.................Yup!..........The guys who want to race em' will do like hundreds of racers already do with T maxx's. They'll spend an extra grand making them into monster RACE trucks!.....LOL, Jim

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
They'll spend an extra grand making them into monster RACE trucks!.....LOL, Jim

No need to put $1,000 into this baddd thang to make it a race truck. Point said. Just you wait......:p

[jdm3849]

Where can I get titanium ballstuds that will fit on RPM ballcups? I have a hub, shocktower and bulkhead that will be useless if I break off one more stud. (all the holes will be filled up, lol)
Have you guys had better results with stiffezel vs. graphite as far as breakage goes?



Thanks, Mike

[cave]

jdm3849 Do you have a dremel? I have had my rear shock tower for around 6 months and have broke alot of titanium ball studs on the rear inside near the tranybox. I simply cut a grove in the back part of the broken ball stud and unscrew it out towards the rear of the truck. Then to make it easier to replace next time I shaved about a 1/16" off the back side area that the ball stud goes into. Now my ball studs stick out around a 1/16" so when and if they break I can unsrew them easier and faster.
You could also replace them with captured ball ends. Thats what I have done. No problems since.

cave

[Strike 4]

What do you guys think about the car (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3161979783&category=49217&rd=1) I bought???:D

[ross]

Originally posted by Strike 4
What do you guys think about the car (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3161979783&category=49217&rd=1) I bought???:D

Looks like you got a good deal there.

[MikeWz]

Pretty good deal

[Strike 4]

Isn't that engine the same as a drake ed.?

[cave]

Strike 4
Nice driver! Looks like the front springs are off alittle unless you have a tention gauge. The left one is tighter. Awesome buy... I think drake runs a Picco. There all close to being the same.

cave

[MikeWz]

Strike-Like Cave said get a tool or something for shock matching. Losi's "Shock Dyno" is awesome for that. You should also get rid of that PS and take full advantage of the power from that engine.
It also would have been good for that guy to let you know how much fuel went through there.

[jdm3849]

cave, Yes I do have a dremel and I will try that soon. Never thought of that,lol. You have been breaking the titanium ball studs? eek. lol Are they not much stronger than the steelies? Should I buy the titaniums or just stick with the stock studs?
Also, would'nt adding captured rod ends make the studs more prone to breaking because it will take more force instead of having a ballcup to pop off?

Thanks




One more thing, There is a Graphite Kickplate Bulkhead/Brace on ebay buy it now for $11.99.

Good deal?

[Strike 4]

I mean isnt it the same as this (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=141077&highlight=The+Drake) ?

MikeWZ, Will it make that much of a difference taking the P/S off? I would rather not mess with it unless it will make it more smooth besides I hate dremel and Novarossi when there in the same sentence. And I am not a N00B I run 8 scale and trained my eye/fingers to set the shocks...

[dkj-M3]

jdm3849- I seemed to snap the titaniums as easy as the steels ones, the captured-ends are stronger due to the fact that, screws replace the stud. They will wear & cause some play with the camber but it doesn't really hurt anything, I just replace them when they get too much play. I wonder if the studs would hold up if they didn't make the neck under the ball smaller than the threaded area. That's where mine use to break all the time.

[Fantom 15 gt]

Strike the engine you brought is a CXPR2, The one drake choose is the CXR2N so no they are not the same engine

[tr918]

Hey guys, Great forum! I just bougt a xxxnt drake edition. Got it slightly used. I am new to nitro but not to the losi kits. I own a xxt and a xxxt. I have a question. The xxxnt came with a os cv-r with a 10c slide carb. Is this much different from the rotary carb as far as tunning goes? Is it easier or harder to tune?

Also the right rear tire is stuck on the shaft. Appears to be stripped where the drive pin goes into the plastic. Is there an easy way to get the wheel of with out destroying the hub and shaft? Does this problem happen often on nitro cars? Or is this an isolated incident where the guy before me did not align the pin correctly when he installed the wheel.

Thanks

[cave]

dkj-M3 Thats where mine break too. I wish they would of made the ball studs that connect to the inner side of the tower 5/40 rather than 4/40. Its a pain to replace. Now that I use the capured ends from Traxxas its not been an issue. I drive hard and have DNF because of this ballstud deal. I'm not the only one with this incident. Many others have the same prob. could be our race track is so dang hard!

tr918 if your rim is stripped then you should buy new ones. If the pin is broke replace it with a cut off allen key. If you can afford it just get the replacement pin. If your threaded shaft is stripped get a replacement. Parts can be replaced faster than trying to repair. You should start a parts replacement box. You may want to get a rear Aluminum pivot block from Trinity but most here are better drivers than I and dont even break them. A arms are a must I like plastic cause they arent as brittle. If your a real good driver ghaphite is awesome. Spur gears are a must till you find the sweat spot on the diff you may go thru a few spurs, if you start with a looser spur adjustment. Otherwise you'll end up buying inner diff gear parts. EEEk!
front arms 8 bux or less
rear arms 8 bux or under
plastic rear pivot block under 4 bux
Trinity aluminum rear pivot block under 32 bux
Spur gears under 4 bux
new diff parts under 50 bux from case to inners & bearings.
WELCOME TO Nitro tr918
caution this nitro stuff is so addictive!

cave

[MikeWz]

tsr-Tuning a rotarty and tuning a slide carb are exactly the same thing. You just have to watch your trigger finger a bit more when you're driving a slide carb. They react a bit quicker than rotary.

[ross]

TR,
Im running the CVR w/10C carb in my drake and if your worried about tuning then dont be. Its a sweet running motor and keeps its settings really well, normally only small adjustments are needed if any.

[Got Speed]

Strike 4- Nice, looks like a pretty good deal you got there. There isn't a huge difference. There is supposed to be a bit more bottom end power that way but it is so minimal you a won't notice it. RCCA did an article about that a year or more ago and there was very little difference.

tr918- Nope. I used to run that same engine. The only difference between it and the rotary is that the slide reacts quicker and will just be snappier. It was the easiest engine I have ever tuned. Most of the time I didn't have to touch the needles. Most of the time I wouldn't have to mess with them from week to week either. The easiest most reliable engine I've ever had.

jdm3849- Captured ends replace the stud with a bolt. I've run the same ones ever since I got them. Never had one break. I've gone through probably 10 sets of ball cups and I'm still running the same captured ends. After a while they need replaced though because they get a little slop in them. Mine are a little sloppy but there were 8 in the bag. I'd only suggest them for the rear tower though.

[winning edge designs]

Ya, I agree, the slide will feel more aggressive, but will tune the same as the rotary.

For me the titanium ballstauds are stronger then the steel, but only because of the work hardening that occurs in the steel ballstuds. Most people don't replace them often enough and the constant tweaking back and forth during use makes them become brittle, this isn't as much of a factor with the titanium ones....But, for ultimate durability, I use Proline T maxx ball ends and Lunsford Super Duty tie rods in the needed length for where you run your camber links(I like 2-A). This set-up is cheaper and you'll finish more races in the long run......Jim

[tr918]

Thanks for help guys!

[dhauch]

Which carb would give a more linier feel to the power band?
I've only owned the rotary, and was wondering if the slide would give me a more linier feel from like idle to mid-range.
Looking for something smooth and usable at the bottom end.

Thanks for your input,
dave hauch

[Casper]

Smooth and usable describes a Rotary carb. This is why most offroad truck guys like them. It is usually hard for us to deal with abrupt bottom end. The slide will make the engine feel like it has a lot more bottom end punch. At times if conditions are loose this can make the truck hard to control especially with a strong engine.

[Got Speed]

dhauch- The slide has more of a bottom and top range whereas the rotary has more of a mid-range. If you are used to a rotary the slide will take a little getting used to. Most of my engines I get are slide carbs. I've had some rotary carb engine and they do feel a little smoother but I also like how "snappy" the slides are.

[dhauch]

Traction is a big issue on our track, so it sounds like I better stick with the rotary carb.

Thanks for the great explaination guys, really made it clear to me.
dhauch

[Got Speed]

dhauch- Yeah. Alot of it is just a matter of opinion. A rotary can be easier to use. Good luck. What engine are you getting?

[winning edge designs]

dhauch, If traction is really low on your track, i'll give you a tip to try. Adjust your high end point for throttle lower then fully open. That is if your setting is at 70 % to open the carb fully, try 50%, or even less to see the difference. This works like a biult in carb restrictor, without buying or installing any parts. In fact using this technique on slippery tracks has netted me up to 12 minutes on a ROAR legal tank and 15 minutes on a fullsize tank!...While actually improving lap times! Using a O.S. 12TR rotary carb.

Sssshhhhhhhh, LOL, Jim

[MikeWz]

Jim-sweet. Great info there. Traction isn't a huge issue at my track but I'm gonna try that just cause I don't need all the punch that I have...and hey, a few extra minutes on a tank never hurt anybody :D

[MikeWz]

How awesome is this site!?!?
http://www.thesurrealist.co.uk/slogan.cgi?word=xxx-nt
The xxx-nt is mightier than the sword :D
Man, I wish there was a way to add a siggy on this site. B00000

[dhauch]

Hey Jim,
I hear what your saying about setting the top end.
I'm running a O.S. cv-r .12
Traction is slippery coming out of the corners, we have to be REAL smooth with the finger to stay hooked up.
But I need all of my top end because we have some pretty good size gaps on most of are jumps, up to 30 feet.

So I'm looking for wide range of throttle on the low end, any abrubt throttle and you spin out and can't make the gaps.

I'm open for any other suggestions, motors, pipes, ect.....

Best pipe I've found yet for these cond. is a Associated.
Tried a Fantom, CVEC, LOSI, and Paris which is my next favorite.
dave hauch

[winning edge designs]

Dave, i've tried most pipes as well, I prefer the A/E for very long tracks and the Losi(Drake) pipe for medium and smaller tracks.

The problem is, wether you remove some bottom end or HP by limiting the carb opening, or by tuning with pipes, etc. you still end up with less power to reduce wheel spin.........The only way you can have both, sort of is with throttle exponential. Add a bit of negative expo (maybe -30%)to your throttle and it will make the first 20% or so of throttle opening take about 1/2 of the throttle trigger. Then when you go past that much, or to full throttle you still have a fully open high power engine..................The only other possible info I could give you is a very secret trick used by seasoned gas racers. Drill a 3/32 hole in the back of each clutch shoe and insert a 3/32 diff ball in each hole, add some CA to hold it in as well. This will engage the clutch at a lower rpm and help a bunch with traction, it also reduces slippage on high bite tracks oddly enough.....Hope this helps, Jim

[dhauch]

Hey Jim,
I agree on what your saying. I'm going to try some playing with the Expo. I had a digital servo laying around and haven't tried Expo since I put that in. I do like the Digi servo, real smooth and it is .09 sec. for speed, so some expo might help, thanks

[dhauch]

Accidently sent that last post before I finished.

I like that idea on the weight in the clutch shoes.
So I'm only putting one ball on the backside of each half, is that correct?
Sheeee! I won't tell anyone. :)

Thanks for your time and tips,
davr hauch

[winning edge designs]

Dave, correct, one diff ball behind each shoe. You could use two, but your track would have to be pretty bad to need that much weight.......Have fun, ttyl, Jim

[Strike 4]

Hey guys what steering servo works good with this car? Also what upgrades besides alluminum rear brace and graphite front arms should I get?

[Casper]

I like the Airtronics 357 or Futaba 9402 (which is what I running) Look for something with 80+ in-oz of torque and .15 or faster and you should be real happy.

Also the shock towers are biggies for stiffness. You would be suprised to see how much the stock towers flex compared to the graphite towers! If you do not have them alum brake clips are a good thing. The stock plastic ones will break.

[MikeWz]

Strike-You can get carbon fiber towers with aluminum mounts on ebay for pretty cheap. I highly recommend them. I run one in front and back and they are excellent. I wouldn't go with the Graphite arms just yet. They are much more brittle (especially in the cold) and you really won't see much of an advantage running them (unless you can with the big guys). Graphite center brace is good too. As for servos, go with the Futaba 9402 or the Hitec hi-torque servo. Sorry I can't get you numbers but I don't know off hand and I really should be leaving now so I can't look it up, but I'll see if I can post em up a little later tonight.

[dkj-M3]

get the airtronics 357 servo

[jdm3849]

Where can I get the captured rod ends at? I will be using them with the turnbuckles that come with the RTR.


Also, what is the longest antenna tube I can get? My wire hangs past a trinity tube like 7 inches,lol. And I do not like the "wrap" method.

[MikeWz]

Strike-The hitec servo you'd probably be looking for is the HS-635HB. It has the new Karbonite gears so they are crazy strong, and it has a reaction time of only .18seconds. The futaba is a bit faster but it's a bit heavier and doesn't have the same torque.

[losiguy1090]

has anybody tried the one peice diffnut carrier from team losi on theire xxxnt?

[losiguy1090]

Originally posted by Strike 4
Hey guys what steering servo works good with this car? Also what upgrades besides alluminum rear brace and graphite front arms should I get?

get the rpm front bumper, its a lifesaver. trust me;)

[Strike 4]

Ok I decided on the HS-635HB as my servo; I don't really want a RPM wide front because they rip up front bulkheads and they ruin the track I go to (blue grooved). I am also going to get the graphite center brace. Has anyone tested R3 compound yet?

[MikeWz]

Strike-good decision on the servo. IMO .01 seconds doesn't make much of a difference and it'll last you just as long as the Futaba. R3 compound is nice. You race on blue groove and I'm not such a huge fan of pro-lines on blue-groove. Losi's T-2000s in silver compound and taper-pins in silver compound I found to work the best. If it's a track that's a bit more loose go with the 2000's in the pink compound. It'll give you a bit more traction but not enough to make your tires crazy sticky.

[winning edge designs]

Guys, be carefull when comparing servos and speeds, torque, etc. Alot of companies use different voltages and angle measurments to make things a little more tricky for those who don't take the time to research it completely. For example, Servo A may have 80 oz. of torque and a .09 transit time for 60 degrees, at 5 volts. While servo B may have 90 oz. of torque and a .08 transit time for 55 degrees at 6 volts, etc................Servo A would be the better choice, unless it cost twice as much, LOL....Jim

[losiguy1090]

when i tighten my diff am i supposed to hold the spur gear w/ my hand?

and has anyone tried out those one peice diff nut carriers?

[dkj-M3]

losiguy1090- Yes, holdt the right tire & spur gear. Then turn the left tire backwards 1/8th at a time then check the diff.

The new one peice diff nut replaced the old locknut method & fixed the problems they had with it stripping. I use all stock parts for the diff.

[losiguy1090]

in the instructions it says to check your diff to turn the left rear tire forward. but to tighten it you turn the diff screw.


i mean when im tightening the diff screw, do i hold the spur gear too?

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
losiguy1090- Yes, holdt the right tire & spur gear. Then turn the left tire backwards 1/8th at a time then check the diff.

The new one peice diff nut replaced the old locknut method & fixed the problems they had with it stripping. I use all stock parts for the diff.

my fault.
No, you don't need to hold the spur. Use a small flat head screw driver or small allen wrench to hold the diff nut & right outdrive in place. Then turn the left wheel backwards an 8th at a time to tighten. Turn forward to loosen, then check the tension of your diff to feel if it's set right.

[losiguy1090]

or you could leave the left rear tire on[cuz then it holds the left outdrive] and then turn the diff screw.

[dkj-M3]

You can do it with both wheels on

[rhcsavage21]

oops i made a boo boo

[Got Speed]

Strike 4- I got an Airtronics 357 as well. I love it. A huge improvement over my hitec 625 servo. That RPM front bumper does just what you said. Tear up front bulkheads. I tried one and took it off after 3 runs.

losiguy1090- It is replacing the older two nut design. I like it. It is just easier being one peice and there are more threads for the bolt to hold onto.

jdm3849- You can use the T-Maxx ball ends. Pro Line also makes ball ends for the T-Maxx that you can use. I think Racers Edge also makes some.

[rhcsavage21]

o well i will keep my rebuild project going. i still have to get a throttel servo, a engine, and a exaust. o and tires

[Strike 4]

Does anyone know the part # for the rear brace?

[MrCrash]

Originally posted by rhcsavage21
o well i will keep my rebuild project going. i still have to get a throttel servo, a engine, and a exaust. o and tires WHAT DID YOU DO?!?!?!

oh,and feel free to call me ASAP.

[winning edge designs]

savage, you can use an inexpensive servo for throttle, especially in a 1/10th truck. I use a 737 and in a pich have even had good luck from a standard JR or futaba 3003 servo.......The steering servo is where it's more important to spend the extra dough. Do you have ANY tires for it at all?........Jim

[rhcsavage21]

i did but they are fried.
and mrcrash i told i have was going sooner or later. and now i am starting. as soon as chrismas is over i will start saving for the engine. mabey i can sell those other two moters?????

[MikeWz]

RCH-What kind of surface are you going to be running on? Losi has a chart of what tires are good for what surfaces. Really helps a lot and seems to be pretty much right on.

[jdm3849]

http://store.racers-edge.com/catalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=product&theParentId=111&id=293


Will those do the trick? How many will I need also?

[MrCrash]

Originally posted by rhcsavage21
mabey i can sell those other two moters????? I think I know of someone who would buy them, but only as long as you don't mind that he will put them through torture far beyond anything even a 5 year old could do.

[losiguy1090]

Originally posted by rhcsavage21
oops i made a boo boo

neglected rebuild huh:D


Gotspeed, my lhs was out of stock when i went yesterday but theyll have it by tuesday. hopefully i can go racing next weekend.

[Got Speed]

jdm3849- Those should work. I only run 2. I just use them on the rear shock tower. I have seen people run them all around though. These will also work:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDEG8&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDV6&P=7

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by losiguy1090
neglected rebuild huh:D


Gotspeed, my lhs was out of stock when i went yesterday but theyll have it by tuesday. hopefully i can go racing next weekend.
you could say that:rolleyes:

[rhcsavage21]

Originally posted by MrCrash
I think I know of someone who would buy them, but only as long as you don't mind that he will put them through torture far beyond anything even a 5 year old could do.

how much is he willing to pay????
i just tested both engine and they run fine.

[MrCrash]

Originally posted by rhcsavage21
how much is he willing to pay????
i just tested both engine and they run fine. You would have to come over one weekend after new years,and we will go ask him if he would be interested.Remember that moron down my street that is always buying and selling his cars,and blowing his motors?He would be the buyer,if he's interested.

[Strike 4]

Hey how is the carbon fiber chassis for this car? It looks like it lightens it but is it weak?

[racer2]

you can always make your own antenna tube if you need to. But they do hang out of the tube.

[Got Speed]

Strike 4- The CF will break whereas the alum. will bend. I know the alum chassis is very strong. I've never heard of anyone bending one. I'm the CF chassis is plenty strong too. I wouldn't get it personally. IMO it could make it too light. I try not to let my truck get overly heavy but honestly the stock weight is plenty light and even a little more weight sure dosn't hurt.

[Strike 4]

I see what your saying, do you think CVD's are a must? What affect do they have on this car? Oh yeah I almost forgot this (http://indyrcworld.net/picpost/index.php) is the condition it will run in (Blue Grooved)...

[Casper]

In those conditions you might want to think about CVD's. Other then that if you run outdoor on rougher tracks the stock drive shafts work better since they have a little give.

[winning edge designs]

CVD's vs standard axles....I prefer the standard axles, mostly because they are much stronger it seems to me. The tuning difference is also a factor, but not as much. The CVD's give a little more rear traction on smooth tracks, the stock parts on bumpy track have better traction.

News flash, I just biult a new transmission for our regionals this weekend. The one it replaced had almost a year on it, as well as the diff....Funny thing is the diff was still very good, but the outdrives were worn about 1/8th inch into the drive side AND, the tranny case melted a little were the bearing for the topshaft rides in it. But the diff felt buttery........hmmmm, :), Jim

[MikeWz]

Strike-I have the CF chassis and I love it. It has alsmost 0 flex to it and holds up plenty good. I have it for about 6 months and no sign of wear other than the usual scratches. I'm sure it won't last quite as long, but hey, if I ever break my CF chassis I still got the aluminum one to fall back on.

[losiguy1090]

how many turns out from locked should i have my diff?

[RCRACER2471]

I have mine out 1/2 turn....

[Keemos]

I start of with 1 and then adjust it when i get on the track.

[Strike 4]

I got my Losi in today awesome car way better than my GT for sure!!!

[losiguy1090]

welcome to our side:D thanks for the tips guys.

[losiguy1090]

thanks guys i loosened up the diff about a half turn and the diff is buttery smooth.

[celittca]

I just got my XXX-NT sport and it seems not bad. Broke it in with 5 tanks and temps are low. Is there anything I should look out for? What's the weak point and I am running 20 % of nitro. So which plug for that mach .15 is the best??

thanks for any inputs

[MikeWz]

Hey if it aint the rich kid.
This truck is beyond not bad, but I guess you're used to running Kanai II's with Sirio .27's that you break carbs on :rolleyes: OS #8 are one of the best plugs you can buy for a non-turbo engine. As for weak points, get a Trinity aluminum rear pivot block and make sure your diff is always adjusted right. If it's not set right you're going to have your fair share of problems. Look up a few posts to see how to adjust it.

[Strike 4]

I am very happy with this car so far I installed a radio (3pjs), a switch, RX pack, RX, and THL servo. Tommorow I am going to get the batteries for the MIP on board and install steering servo. As far as condition he included the stock tires and they look like they never were run same with street tires. There is not a spec of dirt, and the engine's compresion is to were I don't think it's broken in!!!


MI LIKEY AAALOTT, Strike 4

[LoSick]

Does anyone know an 16mm engine mount for my xxx nt since I just gave me for christmas a sirio 15 turbo and I´d like to see it how it races compared to the os 15 cvr, also, I´m looking for a pipe with lots of torque and final speed for the os, can´t decide between the cvec dual, paris turbo ring or mip rear stinger, they all cost around 50 bucks but I´m sure they are all better than the stock pipe from my losi sport.

[LoSick]

just finished my crowd pleazer and wanna to try some tires for asphalt, right now I use strikers, they have low wear but low grip, and Í´m thinking for some jacos foams or trc in green or blue compound , which are better? I run on new asphalt every sunday and I definately need some foams to kick asses of the gts that have speed hawgs and road rages, which of course have way grip compared to my strikers

[Got Speed]

LoSick- The drake pipe is a great all around pipe. I'm not a big stinger fan. I've never used one but I've seen people bend them all up and from what I've heard they really arn't as big a deal as some people make them. I really like the CVEC pipes. They are illegal for racing so keep that in mind but IMO would be a much better pipe to go with over the stinger. Never had any experience with the paris pipe either. Alot of people say ringed pipes really don't offer any advantages. I've heard great things from lots of people about the Fantom pipes though too. The drake pipe is a great all around pipe though.

[Strike 4]

Originally posted by LoSick
just finished my crowd pleazer and wanna to try some tires for asphalt, right now I use strikers, they have low wear but low grip, and Í´m thinking for some jacos foams or trc in green or blue compound , which are better? I run on new asphalt every sunday and I definately need some foams to kick asses of the gts that have speed hawgs and road rages, which of course have way grip compared to my strikers

TRC is what I prefer but the problem with foams is there realy small and you will have burn outs because of the stock gear ratio and small tires. The only fix is to put in traxxas clutch bell and spur about a 22:48 would be good, may need to hack the chassis a bit.

[LoSick]

Thanks guys, I´ll get the cvec and perhaps I´ll get some hawgs, putting a traxxas bell would mean to get the entires clutch due to the size of the bearings (5x11mm) compared to the 1/4x3/8 flanged in the losi. anyway thanks, any ideas for the engine mount? or I´ll just drill the sirio 15 to 11mm?

[MikeWz]

Losick-About that CVEC...It really does't have anymore power than the next pipe. It just sounds nice. The same with the stinger. The big problem with the stinger is that if you have a butt first landing your engine is going to shut off. And they are also the most horendously annoying pipes I have ever heard in my entire life. The drake pipe is great for the price. Personally I LOVE the fantom pipes. Awesome sound, awesome power and they help the run times quite a bit. If you have a short track get the single chamber pipe. If you have a long track go with the dual chamber pipe. And as for tires, why not try Losi's P-90's? I hear they're quite good.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Originally posted by LoSick
just finished my crowd pleazer and wanna to try some tires for asphalt, right now I use strikers, they have low wear but low grip, and Í´m thinking for some jacos foams or trc in green or blue compound , which are better? I run on new asphalt every sunday and I definately need some foams to kick asses of the gts that have speed hawgs and road rages, which of course have way grip compared to my strikers

LoSick, what rims are those on your NT?

[MrCrash]

They look like dish rims that have been mounted backwards(the inside hex mount spot on the outside)

[MrCrash]

They look like dish rims that have been mounted backwards(the inside hex mount spot on the outside)

[MikeWz]

Hey crash...Looks like you're living up