Tamiya TA04S/SS/R/R-Tuned/TRF Forum V2.1

[StevePond]

Started at the request of TA03 Drive Hard

[TRF Drive Hard]

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAH!:D Im soooo happy... hehe... first off, i would like to thank Steve Pond for putting this up;) thank you... anyhow... i already have 2 ta04 trf kits... i think i was the first to actually get one in the USA... am i:confused: i dunno... i was thinkin i should race on cause i said i would if i got 2:D sooooo with that in mind i might just do that... i was also thinkin what can i do to further upgrade this thing... althought it is already, but... i decided to swap out the optional gears i had from my "built ground up" 04... this would include the ceramic diffballs i had installed using Eagle Racing delrin gears... so i omitted the front one-way... trust me it looks tricked yet! even the SSG chassis is beautiful... so now when will they have a saddle pack chassis made of SSG? cause i really want that:rolleyes: so does anyone else have this?:D :D :D

Ted

[aussie_bloke]

you could get the integy purple bits :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

I would, and i have those, but the purple doesnt look good with blue:rolleyes: and no i dont want to do all that oven cleaning stripping thing:p but i did add Titanium tie-rods and torque rods...:D

[k_bojar]

This is a sweet kit...I just cant see spending all the $$ just to get the SSG parts and the special aluminum parts...I talked to Tamiya USA guys at the last TCS race I was at, and they werent sure how much of the "special" parts of the car will be made available spearately :(

Bummer

[TRF Drive Hard]

Tower Hobbies will have them in stock... but cant say anytime soon... but they are a bit pricey... i have mine already and i got them dirt cheap all NIB:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

I just got my 2nd TRF kit:D

[TA04TRF_ROCKET]

Does anyone have any hints on assembling the car that are not in the instructions. I just got my TRF tuesday and started assembling it. So far I have CA'd all the carbon parts on the outside edges and some internal one's, and have built the rear diff and suspension. I am up to step 8 where the uni-drives go together. Thanks for any help and suggestions. Has anyone raced it yet, and what were your results, and what class were you running it in. Sorry for all the questions. :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

I did something a lil different than what was asked to do... in steps 11-19... on page 7... MB11 is supposed to be used on the front suspension arms... this is for the assmembly of the front stablizers... to me it looked weak so i omitted that... instead, i used 5mm adjustables for the TL01... if you look on page 9 step 15, you will see the front hub carrier... you will notice there is a spot to thread in the 5mm ball connector, just slightly above the suspension mount... thats what i did... another thing i did was replicate the 414m2 steering... on page11 step 20 i omitted the part K10 along with the scews and flanged tubing... if you have a 414m2, then you'll know what im talking about... i wish i can post pics but im out of a computer to do so... i havent ran her yet, but i plan to this saturday:D btw, bout time someone has this kit other than me:D :D :D

ted

[TA04TRF_ROCKET]

Thanks for the info :D I will have to print your reply and go through the instructions at the steps you indicated. Another question would be, Are the steering arms that come with the kit fine, or do you think the aluminum arms would be better? :rolleyes: Its nice to know someone else that has this kit. The owner of the LHS that I go to has one and I bought the 2nd one that he had ordered, seems like they are just getting into the shops now. Do you know where there are any good pictures of it on the web? Thanks again. :cool:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well www.tamiya.com is the best place to get pics... but not very much, but nice info...

Anyways... saturday was race number 3!!! after the last 2 races i went i bombed out... my TBEVO2 steering got messed up and my other TA04 Pro that fully modded w/Integy parts also bombed out, again steering problems...

It's 1AM saturday, just before the early afternoon race... i was dared to run my TA04 TRF... so i decided to prep her and install the TRF2002 ESC along with the Tamiya Super Stock Type "R" motor... my car needed no further adjusting... she was all tweaked and ready to go... all i needed was a body... my Opel V8 was the only body i had ready so i decided to her...

Race day-i was so hyped up i couldnt wait to race her... we got there close to 10AM and a few people were practicing... i unloaded and my friend unloaded... he went right away to practice and i just had to make a few adjustments... then finally i got ready and decided to get up to the drivers stand... i was nervous, there were nitro cars running too but i didnt care... i looked at the track and i was like holy crap, tight turns every where... this is the best chance for my front way! im not pro driver but i did very well, my car did not bomb out... she was running super sweet as expected... after practice we were called for registration... finally i was positioned 6th and my friend 7th...

First heat-i started out or shall i say we all started with a big pile up at the first turn:p kinda got messy but oh well... my friend and i were kinda head to head, but usually he and i were passing each other up back and forth... i was real nervous at the drivers stand... 9 of us racing and a few were great drivers... i managed to keep up and so did my friend... after 5 minutes, i tied with my friend with 16 laps, but technically i was placed 4th and my friend placed 3rd... a great team effort for Team Anime and Nokturnel Racing...

Second heat-I knew track now and was aware of the first turn... i was positioned 4th and my friend 3rd, just behind 2 other cars... this meant that i had a better chance at getting to the first turn without getting into a jam... before he said "go" i had my wheel turned just a lil to going to the left... when he said "go" i was off!!! passed the guy who was in front of me and didnt know what happened... i was like ya baby ya!!! i kept my cool but was still nervous... i had my eye on my car the whole time... but i ran the walls quite a few times i cant remember:p but i maintained 2nd and 3rd a few times... my friend on the other hand i did not see him anywhere... i almost passed him up but wasnt near there... he was a few laps behinds me, only to find out that he got into a jam... i cutting turns like a rat finding cheese and i said to myself, damn this is the best race i ever had! finally finished, i came to halt and was relieved... the race results that were posted showed i tied first with 17 laps with thsi one guy, but technically came in second!!! i was like wooooooooohooooooooo!!! i was shocked!!! but i heard my friend placed 5th with 15 laps... due to a broken knuckle...

My TRF 04 was the best i have ever used and was proud to be the first to use such chassis at the hobby shop... lots of guys were in aw of the chassis and liked it... again this was the best race that my friend and i ever did... lots of fun and lots of friends!

ted:cool:

[Cychalen]

Good for you! Always glad to read racing stories. :)

[CarterTG]

Congrats TA03DH. Goooooooo TA04!

[TA04TRF_ROCKET]

Way to go TA03 Drive Hard, congrats on the race, sounds like this thing is really going to open a lot of people's eyes to the TA04, which is well deserved. Thanks again for the info, keep the racing stories coming.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey thanks guys! i cant wait to go to the next race... my friend who was also racing was using the FF01 chassis... he did extremely well with it... but my trf04 was hooked and planted to the ground thanks to the type a slick from tamiya;) right now ima clean her up and tweak anything that might be a problem... hopefullt nokturnel will have his 04 pro all hooked up too, he needs his twin belt replaced... as does my other 04 pro... might have to pick up another ssg chassis set... seems to be some scuffs on the rear:p oh well:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well im finished building my 2nd 04trf... its got plenty of extra goodies... titanium rods, ceramic bearings/balldiffs, optional aluminum front body post... i even made the center steering rod adjustable... i wish i had digicam but now i gotta bug my friend to use it:D

[Kaffieen_Kraze]

Ted,
Nice racing summary there! I did not know that you placed 2nd last weekend, Great job man. I know what you mean about being nervous when up on the drivers stand. You should have seen me the last couple of years. I hit more boards, than covered pavement/turned laps:p I'm glad that you enjoyed the racing, so you gonna show up at the next one and turn the new 04trf loose? I was impressed with my 1st look at the chassy I must admit. Eh perhaps sometime I'll swap my gas can for some battery packs:rolleyes:
Kraze

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey Kraze, give it a try:D i'll even loan ya one of my 04's to dial in the way you like;) the trf04 i mentioned above i wont race it... has too many extra goodies and i sure hate to see it get all scratched up:p so its a shelf queen:D but you know i already ran one of the chassis' so there goes my racer for the year:)

Heck im contemplating on aquiring another chassis :D

ted

[trrrrrrf]

its time to show this thing off since no one else has posted one up yet http://home.iprimus.com.au/chad404/forumpics/ta/ta-iso.jpg
its dead sexy

[TRF Drive Hard]

Man, i wish i can show you my modification i did to my front bumper... i have my transponder mounted in it braced with the original bumper brace and included the aluminum front body post... this thing is trick;) btw, nice trf04:D so did you run her?

[trrrrrrf]

tried to but my radio gear aint to good -- need to find a fm stick radio with all the trick little functions the pistols have -- any ideas

[TRF Drive Hard]

Stick FM? the only ones i know of are 4-9 channels, which are mainly used for airplanes and helis... you dont really need anything fancy 'cept the third channel... if you have a use for it;) but the transponder connects to your BEC in your receiver;)

ted

[trrrrrrf]

I tend to scare people when I drive the TA-TRF with my entey level futaba attack am radio. then it shocks them when they loose to me. I use to do the same with my tl-01

[TRF Drive Hard]

LOL let them be scrared:D i cant wait to race my trf again...:D

[trrrrrrf]

All i need to do is work on the setup and set the motor better to give me more brakes and all should be good.

http://home.iprimus.com.au/chad404/forumpics/ta/ta-rhs.jpg

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by trrrrrrf
tried to but my radio gear aint to good -- need to find a fm stick radio with all the trick little functions the pistols have -- any ideas

Airtronics makes a "Stick-version" of the M8...Its basically a M8 with 2 sticks instead of a wheel...Kinda pricey tho :) One of the guys I race with still insists upon using a stick instead of a wheel :confused: go figure

Why not switch to a wheel radio???

[jiggen5354]

that would be the super exzes you are referring too.

anyone else notice the novak brushless in the pic?:)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Yup i did... just didnt care for the brushless:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well i made up my mind to work on a new project... im gonna build from ground up a TRF TA04R-SS... yes an SS version with the SSG... here is what it will have...

-Lightweight carbon chassis
-SSG upper plate
-SSG front shock tower
-SSG rear shock tower
-Aluminum front and rear suspension mounts
-Flourine coated ballnuts and ball connectors
-Flourine coated shocks (of course:rolleyes: )
-Flourine coated suspension shafts
-2 degree rear toe-in
-Hardened SS arms (milled out for lighter weight and looks)
-Aluminum pulley for the rear
-Aluminum center one-way
-Aluminum center pulley
-Racing front one-way
-Aluminum racing steering set
-Aluminum finned heatsink motor mount
-Aluminum front body post 60mm
-Hardened center shaft
-Titanium turnbuckles and upper links
-TRF racing front stabilizer set


all this is gonna cost me cheap cheap cheap:D

so much for that... i wonder if i missed anything:rolleyes:

[trrrrrrf]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard


so much for that... i wonder if i missed anything:rolleyes:
- rear light weight ball diff
- low friction belts
- rear stabilizer
- light weight universals (front and rear)
- light weight hex nuts (locking veriety)


i think there might be more

oh:D +2 offset rims and type 'a' slicks come in the box

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by trrrrrrf
- rear light weight ball diff
- low friction belts
- rear stabilizer
- light weight universals (front and rear)
- light weight hex nuts (locking veriety)


i think there might be more

oh:D +2 offset rims and type 'a' slicks come in the box

Ya those too:D except for the +2 offset rims... im just gonna use the 0 offset;)

[minijosh]

since I am getting the full SSG carbon fiber stuff like the upper and lower decks, front and rear shock holders is my car considered a TRF? I already have the TRF shocks and I will be putting ball diffs in soon. TA04-SS TRF. I like the sound of that!!!
8)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well you need the racing front stablizer, racing spur gear holder, hardened suspension, racing front one-way, and the lightweight universals...;)

and possibly more:D

the ted

[DJF1]

I'm getting mine tomorrow:D :D

I'm gonna put a GT3 body and a D5 turn10 double on with a super rooster esc... It's gonna fly!:D

I'm stil on the hunt for a reasonably priced TA03R-S TRF chassis though to complete my GT1 Novak brushless project... If anyone knows a place...

Needless to say I'm so exited I can't sleep:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Good luck trying to put in the super rooster esc... that thing is big...:p

[DJF1]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Good luck trying to put in the super rooster esc... that thing is big...:p

Yeah LOL! I have a Super Rooster on my RSCS 993 TA03 with the D5 and it rocks! it is huge for sure, but I have a back up plan with a futaba esc which is tiny and light only draw back is the T10 limit it has but since I have it already so no need to spend more money... Saving now the pennies for the TA03 R-S TRF if it comes my way...

I saw your TA03 on the other forum...wow it is so sweet....
Where did you get the...disc brakes??? !!!!

BTW the chassis is HERE!!!! WOW...sweet...very sweet... construction starts tonight and I cant wait!!!:D

[sengming]

will it be cheap to build from ground up?? I thought that was the most expensive method..but ...cool? to save you time..you could just buy another trf ta04r and add the shorts arms and other hop-ups...but it's more fun your way.

good luck! post pics when your done;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

It can be cheap building from ground up... depends on the supplier... i get mine dirt cheap!:D so actually i have another trf waiting to get built... but still need more parts to actually complete it...

btw, those disks brakes on my 03 are from proline if i remember... and my 03 was taken apart... i needed the TI screws:D but i do plan on rebuilding back but with GPM blue parts to really make it shine!;)



BTW, how much did you pay for your trf? if you spent over 3 bills then i can say you paid too much;)

[jiggen5354]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard


if you spent over 3 bills then i can say you paid too much;)

Most Australian hobby stores are selling it for around $1100 Australian. That works out to 700US:mad:

[sengming]

how much did i pay??

i don't have a tao4R TRF......

[TRF Drive Hard]

Sorry i was refering to DJF1;)

[k_bojar]

I have a TA04R TRF :D Just got a couple of needed parts to bring it (almost) up to snuff with the 04TRF car :) Only thing I'm missing is the SSG graphite pieces - but I cannot find only the shock towers and upper deck :)

And I guess I'm missing the blue aluminun "CVD" shafts too

[Cychalen]

Originally posted by DJF1
I'm gonna put a GT3 body and a D5 turn10 double on with a super rooster esc... It's gonna fly!:D
:eek: Do take a picture of the chassis after you manage to put a SR on it. I really want to know how you manage to do that without having it lean on one side. That thing is like a brick.:D

[DJF1]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Sorry i was refering to DJF1;)


With shipping it was $290.
BTW I liked the old Tamiya system of having the parts bags identified by steps. This new system of A,B,C etc bags full of parts makes it more difficult to do the assembly. Never the less the chassis parts are beautifull and light:D

I'll post pics when I'm done!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hopefully i can get pics too of my 04-trf... its totally tricked:D

[DvMxDv]

It can be cheap building from ground up... depends on the supplier... i get mine dirt cheap!

Hey Drive Hard -

Is that cheap supplier publicly available or just a buddy of your's in the industry?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well i get mine off ebay and he's in hong kong... and i usually get stuff at a super price... he knows me well enough already:D

[DvMxDv]

Sweet!

Hey, I've done some looking around on Ebay and found several guys in Hong Kong selling Tamiya parts. All the prices were fair, but none super cheap. Can you point me in this guy's direction? Thanks.

Dave

[DJF1]

So the chassis is ready!!!:D
I got to take pics and post them... Simply stunning...
Been thinking about the motor and ESC, not too much space... also I just saw that Novak has a competition brushless forward only motor that spins at 51000rpm!!!!
I should think that a work of art like this deserves a killer motor...

What do you guys think?

[TRF Drive Hard]

I think the BL in the 04-trf is killer... @51000RPM, you should rip up the tracks:D

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
I think the BL in the 04-trf is killer... @51000RPM, you should rip up the tracks:D

that is assuming you can actually race a brushless at your local track ;):) :mad: I know my local tracks wont allow them

[TRF Drive Hard]

True that... but im sure the guys at the track wont mind seeing a BL in action...;)

[R3VoLuTiOn]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
I think the BL in the 04-trf is killer... @51000RPM, you should rip up the tracks:D

or the belts???:D

[maX energ]

since this is only the really active 04 forum...do you mind if i float around althought i got a TA04R? its kinda the same...minus the chrome carbon fiber...stuff...

[TRF Drive Hard]

Most active? actually the original 04 thread is the most active one...;)

[DJF1]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
True that... but im sure the guys at the track wont mind seeing a BL in action...;)

That is kind of my thinking too:D
Besides I'm not so sure if I want to race it. it looks so good that its more of a display work of art than a bashing tool. I got to get these pics done... I got too busy building another "new" toy! I had my heart set on a F103TRF and I got one last week, used but it is in as new condition. I plugged in a speed gems T12 I had lying around and a tiny futaba esc and run it tonight! Boy that thing screams!! As you realize donuts galore but once it hooked up it was scary fast!

Here is a pic of it alongside a friends fully hopped up F201! The body came painted black, I stripped the stickers it had on and put a mix of Ferrari stickers that my friend had left over. I think the result is really good, plus its faster than my friend's original:p

[TRF Drive Hard]

Wow those look nice;)

[DJF1]

Here are some pics of my TA-04TRF!!!
Finally I got around it....:

[DJF1]

1 more

[k_bojar]

Anyone know the part number to the front sway bar that is included in the TRF04??

I'm looking to get one for my 04R(TRF) :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Is it me or do you have the left rear suspension mounted in hole #4 and the right rear suspension mounted in the hole #3?:confused:?

[minijosh]

maybe he likes to lean into the turns???

[TRF Drive Hard]

Unless he's doin oval... actually, i have thought about that for awhile now... one side using the inner hole and the other, outter most hole... so do most oval racers go counter clock or clockwise?

[DJF1]

Good catch TA03!!!! :D My friend suggested that and this is actually one of the experiments we are planning to do. In racing compression rates, sway bar rates and mounting points change the attitude on various tracks. The "track" I'm going to test on is a left turn flat "Nazareth" style and I'm going to test both attitutudes by running left and right to see the handling difference.
This is a really neat chassis but the whole project is going to go on the back burner till November. For the next three months I'm prepping my "real" race car for PCA club racing and I will be very busy with this project. I have already run a race and it was amazing but my "new" car needs a lot of setup to cure that understeed that plagued me...

K_bojar on the manual of the TRF , the front stabilizer part number is 9805737. This is a set of three blue,yellow,red and they look to be the same as the TA03 sway bars.

[TRF Drive Hard]

That sounds like a cool experiment man!;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Here goes my TRF with the carbon R34:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

I hate my stupid webcam...:mad: gotta go digital! WEBCAM DIGVOLVE TO... DIGIMONCAM!!!:D

[ShinHed]

I've been out of the hobby for a few months and upon returning, I see a TRF Ta04. What's the purpose when the 414 exists?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well i think parts for the 414 are hard to come by...

[ShinHed]

You think.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Yes i think:D

[ShinHed]

The 414_ is a lighter/faster car and the parts that break most are replacable Ta04/414_ parts.
:eek:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Actually, im referring to the belts, spur mount, bell cranks, steering post, caster blocks (but i found out that the caster blocks from the evo2 fit), center shaft, center steering plate, bulkhead beam... just to name a few;)

[ShinHed]

When was the last time you broke a center shaft, center steering plate, bulkhead beam...just to name a few?:confused:


The TA04-TRF is a beautiful car and serves no real purpose but, to make Tamiya more money.

[TRF Drive Hard]

I need those to have a complete kit to actually run;)

[ShinHed]

Right.....

[TRF Drive Hard]

ok...:rolleyes:

[TRI-TURBO]

Originally posted by ShinHed
I've been out of the hobby for a few months and upon returning, I see a TRF Ta04. What's the purpose when the 414 exists?

humm well if you slap a tub chassis onto the TRF 04 you can run it in the GT2 stock class for TCS, ware as the 414 can only be run in in the GT1 Mod class

And also other Tamiya sponsered races such as the Tamiya grad prix in Japan do not alow the 414, but u can run the TRF 04

[ShinHed]

You are absolutely right, TRI-TURBO and I knew that. This fact does not apply to TA03 Drive Hard, and knowing this, I decided to "bust his chops".:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

And why he is, is beginning to annoy me seriously...

[ShinHed]

Right.....


;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

:rolleyes: whatever...

[minijosh]

has anyone raced the toyota mr S body for the ta04-ss? i was looking at getting one. I really like my audi tt but nobody sells another shell for it yet and the mr S is on tower as we speak. does anyone know where to get that audi at?

[k_bojar]

Is anyone using the aluminum suspension mounts on their chassis?? I cant figure out what the degree marking means on the 2 different rear blocks...

One says .5 degree and the other is 1 degree - now is that additional toe in?? So if I run the .5 with the standard 2 degree - would I have 2.5 degree of rear toe-in?? and would I have 3 degrees with the 1 degree block???

I cant read Japanese nor do I think the packaging make it clear...I bought them off ebay for my 04R chassis

thanks

[kameleonmn]

Hi all...I just got my TA04-R tuned chassis kit...this thing is sweet...i'm anxious to see how it drives and handle when racing starts...anyways...does anyone know where i can get blue aluminum parts for it...like the turnbuckles, suspension blocks, spur gear hub, and servo posts...so far i've only found the steering arms, and motor heatsink. I got the SSG lower deck coming and want to get blue stuff as well...want to see how one chassis handles from the other with my driving style. So if anyone can give me a site that sells these i'd rerally appreciate it...thanks all. OUT.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by k_bojar
Is anyone using the aluminum suspension mounts on their chassis?? I cant figure out what the degree marking means on the 2 different rear blocks...

One says .5 degree and the other is 1 degree - now is that additional toe in?? So if I run the .5 with the standard 2 degree - would I have 2.5 degree of rear toe-in?? and would I have 3 degrees with the 1 degree block???

I cant read Japanese nor do I think the packaging make it clear...I bought them off ebay for my 04R chassis

thanks

Thats changes the degree in anti-squat or anti-dive... i forgot which one is which... but if you look at your car from the side at the rear... you will notice the angle of the rear suspension arm... those blocks will change the angle...

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by kameleonmn
Hi all...I just got my TA04-R tuned chassis kit...this thing is sweet...i'm anxious to see how it drives and handle when racing starts...anyways...does anyone know where i can get blue aluminum parts for it...like the turnbuckles, suspension blocks, spur gear hub, and servo posts...so far i've only found the steering arms, and motor heatsink. I got the SSG lower deck coming and want to get blue stuff as well...want to see how one chassis handles from the other with my driving style. So if anyone can give me a site that sells these i'd rerally appreciate it...thanks all. OUT.


You could have gotten the trf kit instead;) usually ebay is the place... its where i get all my rc stuff:D

[TEM]

I think I already described atleast once who each chassis behaves. search or read the above pages. Don't go for SSG for handling reasons. It's for looks. What you are to decide on is more graphite tub vs. saddle CF chassis. If it's a SSG or CF chassis that holds the stick packs, it's NO GOOD!....

[TheoDR]

I'm planning to get a high speed servo as one of the final upgrades for the 04. :D Just replaced my wheels with a set of Venom chrome ones. :D

[hanafuda]

I own two Tamiya off-road cars, but am now looking at a road car so that I can get more out of circuit visits.

At the moment I am thinking about the TA04-SS Audi TT-R. Can anyone recommend this as my first road car, or is there anything more suitable? I would like something that is going to be competitive, or at least competitive after some tune-ups.

Thanks.

[TheoDR]

Ah, the Venom wheelset poses better than it actually performs. Gonna get a set of good foams before I head to the local track. In the meantime, I've done what most other ppl here have done, which was to remove the "torque rods" that comes with the Racing Hub Carriers.

The car turns much much better! I had to re-tune the suspension to compensate. :D Also re-installed my 7 year old Integy 12 turn triple, still kicks ass!! Friggin' fast... :eek: :D

[maX energ]

i finnaly dialed my 04R in yesterday..running a drift setup...this cars center of gravity is sooooooo low..
running a trinity P-94 12x2 monster for racing and an OLD trinity GT-2

does anyone know the spec of the GT-2...?

[hanafuda]

I first posted this on the TA04 TRF thread, but this thread is probably more appropriate..

I own two Tamiya off-road cars, but am now looking at a road car so that I can get more out of circuit visits.

At the moment I am thinking about the TA04-SS Audi TT-R. Can anyone recommend this as my first road car, or is there anything more suitable? I would like something that is going to be competitive, or at least competitive after some tune-ups.

Thanks.

[RCAttack]

You should get the 04S or 04R they handle better than the shorter SS & you can always convert them to a SS later if you wish.

Cheers

[TheoDR]

Yeah!! The TA04R kit is the best value for money 04 kit. U can always buy the SS susp arms later. :D

[maX energ]

comparing to other cars...the 04R is the one of the best deals ...maybe..ever?..what other cars can you build from a single kit and race really competivly and have all the options for tuning under 250 bucks??? :confused: ;) :D

[TA04PRO]

hey guys
I have a TA04 pro and i was wondering
what is the difference between the TA04 Lightweight Carbon Reinforced Lower Deck #53494 and the TA04 Carbon Lower Deck #53466?
Are they both lighter than the stock lower deck it comes with in the TA04Pro?
How much are they?
thanx

[maX energ]

the carbon lower deck is the carbon fibre one, the carbon reinforced one is like a plastic with carbon...this is the one that comes stock with the TA04R

[TEM]

The CF chassis is no good if it's the one that uses a battery holder to hold stick packs!

As for the TA04 being a good deal? I don't really think so in terms for stuff vs. $. You aren't getting as much as you think you're getting. I mean it's still a good car out of the box(still not cheap mind you), but there is all too much it still needs to have the right "umph" and handling. if you're starting out, sure it's real good and durable too. But later on you will notice you need STUFF. Thats why a TRF car is worth looking at if you plan to be racing hardcore. Read the TA04 pages for full details!

[maX energ]

do you guys notice any radio problems with your 04R's?...mine sometimes twiches...and im using a 2peka FM radio...? maybe im mounting things wrong?...where should i mount my rx and esc?

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by TEM
The CF chassis is no good if it's the one that uses a battery holder to hold stick packs!

As for the TA04 being a good deal? I don't really think so in terms for stuff vs. $. You aren't getting as much as you think you're getting. I mean it's still a good car out of the box(still not cheap mind you), but there is all too much it still needs to have the right "umph" and handling. if you're starting out, sure it's real good and durable too. But later on you will notice you need STUFF. Thats why a TRF car is worth looking at if you plan to be racing hardcore. Read the TA04 pages for full details!

He did say TA04R is the good deal...You cannot beat what you get in that kit verus the money you pay (about $180US)...Yea the TRF kit is nice and is loaded with stuff, but you pay for it - over $250US if you buy if in the states...For another $20-$30 bucks, you can get a 414M2

I race my 04R "hardcore" and only added about 4 or 5 hop-ups to it...it holds its own against the TC3, XXXS, Xrays...If you go with the 04R from the beginning, there arent a whole lot of hop-ups required to get it on the track and be competitive.

:D

[maX energ]

yup...i beat my friends TL01 with a 12 turn chrome touring quad with my stock motor ...(silver can) in my TA-04R...why?...the gearing was better and the track was tight...i destroyed him...
in one episode of initial D they talk about how the lower HP car has an advantage to the higher when racing downhill in tight corners because the smalled HP motor utilizes its full capibility...
and also i think my car had a better set-up..ha

[TEM]

I did start with a TA04R... Front oneway, lightweight outdrives, rear universals, aluminium hex's, hard arms, aluminium rear toe blocks(soon when I get enough slop in the plastic ones), etc. Would be better to just go ahead with a TRF kit if you got the bucks now cause those hopups are NOT cheap. You'll even have the better rollbar setup with the TRF. I did say the car is good out of the box, but not that great for the money. I can keep up with other cars, but I am faster with my TC3's(more umph and more precise handling). This is consistent result for me because I am using my motors, batts, etc. Its hard to compare your car with someone else's different car cause the "guts" would be different. Anyways, matter of opinion and style.

maX, is that the one where he races an RX7 down a mountain? The AE86 had it's inner wheel riding inside the gutter to stay hooked "inside" and not slide out on turns! I saw that looong time ago... it was in japanese and I didn't know what the heck they were saying. Looks interesting though.

[maX energ]

thats a good episode! but i dont think its the one im talking about...its after the rematch of the RX7 FD and takumi..when he asked his brother why he lost to such an old low horsepower car..


but..still, anyone do have any seggestions on mounting esc's and Rx's???? i get alot of radio interfernce!!

[TEM]

oh that.. is your rx sitting beside your esc?, if it is, that might be it.. move the RX to sit on top of the servo. Sure it's a little cg, but RX's are usually light enough.. try that... route your wires under the belt and hold down with servo tape

[maX energ]

i tried that...so i moved it closer to the esc...i forgot about the rx and esc too close thing...i dunno...ill try it..and see what happens...can i use a diode on my streak ESC...it came with it...so i guess i can??...you can use them on reverisbles.... im pretty sure

[TA04PRO]

wassup guys
I have a TA04 pro
and i was just wondering
is the #50796 (SP796)
1/10 SCALE FORD ESCORT WRC BODY PARTS SET discontinued?

Also is the 53571 TRF Fluorine Coated Dampers set worth getting?
How is the performance? Do I need to buy shock oil for it?
What is the best set up if I buy it?

Is the 49201 TA04 Lightweight Universal Set any good?
How much is it? Is it worth it? How is the performance?





Thanx guys

[TheoDR]

The lightweight universal can only be used on the rear. It'll bend if used in the front and when you crash. Lowers rotating mass etc. You'll need to buy shock oil for the dampers, unless you already have shock oil on hand.

Anyway, what handling difference does a Center One Way give? I just got one to replace the original center pulley set, also since the grub screw was superglued on and can't be removed without disassembling the entire rear bulkhead.

My TA04 had glitches too, even though I had placed the wires far away from the power lines right from the start. I solved the problem by having a strip of velcro on the upper carbon plate to hold the antenna cable (placed near the rear bulkhead). Used a nice thick servo tape to attach the velcro to the carbon plate. Solved my glitching problems. :D

[monyet fangkeh]

i've been driving my TA04R for about 3 months now. the first 2 months the car was really quiet. like there is no binding. its really smooth and quiet. but few weeks ago...its not as quiet as it use to. i rebuild the car to check is there anything binding. cant find. i clean the bearing and check is there any worn out. not at all. everything is doing good. i check the spur and pinion. i found the spur is good but i noticed one of the tooth is little bit stripped but the rest is good. i guess must be pebbles got stuck in there. is that the cause the prob? and i think the ball diff need to be change, i feel the ball diff its little bit gritty when i turn the wheels. is that also can cause the prob?

thank you
Aryo

[KoE]

TRF dampers are awesome, at least they are wayyy smoother than the stock ones and perhaps better or at par with corally's. i read some corally owners r using trf dampers too. i started mine as an 04SS but gradually converted it. now it uses rclab hardened shaft over tamiya arms- works well. my only problem is persistent stripping (and eventually...losing) of the kingpins in the middle of the run :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

The noise usually comes from the spur and pinion... thats why i hate running my 04 loose around unprepared lots... you have to check each tooth really good... especially the pinion... those tiny pebbles can dent the teeth of the pinion creating unwanted noise...;)

[maX energ]

my pinion is all messed up too, its really really annoying it will mess up spurs after a while..little rocks get stuck in it...i think im gonna get that spur gear guard from the new TA04 buggy tamiya is going to release any time soon...it covers the spur/pinion and the fron belt all the way to the diff! :D

[minijosh]

I want one also. Sounds like a worth while hop up.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by maX energ
thats a good episode! but i dont think its the one im talking about...its after the rematch of the RX7 FD and takumi..when he asked his brother why he lost to such an old low horsepower car..


but..still, anyone do have any seggestions on mounting esc's and Rx's???? i get alot of radio interfernce!!

Mount your receiver on top of your servo...I had some problems like that before - I move the receiver and stopped having problems

I mount the speedo on the driver side of the chassis all the way against the batteries

[maX energ]

i did it alittle different...i mounted the esc equal to the servo then mounted the recevier as far back as i could on the carbon upper deck...i used 2 or 3 peices of servo tape to hold it and couishon it alittle...i mean you might be all like :eek: HES RAISING HIS CG!!! oh my!! ...actully i ran it this way 6 or so packs so far and i havnt noticed anything different ..only that i dont have any glitching problems ..

i have a super small/light weight RX so it doesnt effect at all

[TEM]

Like I said before, in my opinion, the best place is on top of the servo. What you did will work fine too. As for that CG thing; small parts like this are insignificant by themselves. It's just good practice to keep everything as low as possible. Where does it hurt?, mounting your battery pack high vs low(ie stick pack VS. side by side with the beveled chassis slots!), or ride height. Thats where you will notice excessive body roll in cornering or even traction roll!

[kameleonmn]

My R-tuned is on the way...can't wait to get it...Have two kits to race with...TA04 r Altezza kit, and now the R-tuned...plus also gettin the TRF 414...thinkin about gettin the TB EVOIII Sarikarn too...so much to choose from...AARRGGHHH!!!!...hehehehe
Well, I know i'll like racing them. Yup...they're all gonna be racers...no displys here:D

[TheoDR]

A report on the center one way... now my 04 handles like a dream!!! Its like having a computerised traction control (think Nissan Skyline GT-R) on the car!! Damn solid handling!!!!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well i actually got around to fixing up one of my ta04 which is basically been converted to a type r... right now im working on my trf... and... rebuilding another type r...:rolleyes:

[monyet fangkeh]

what is the advantage a car having front one way or center one way? i heard that it can carry more speed? anything else? from TheoDR post it said the center one way make the handling better? how come? is it better having both or having one of them?

[minijosh]

That is the best question I have ever seen. I want to know the answer too.

[TEM]

read all about oneways here: http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/oneways.asp

But to summ it all up, I personally don't believe a center oneway alone will improve handling like TheoDR claims it to be. If his car is handling that great, it's the other things he's done setting it up and driver skill! So don't give that much credit to that thingy in the center! The front oneway is what makes a huge difference. It will give you more steering and higher speed around the sweeper. HOWEVER you have to drive it totally differently! You will have to always be giving throttle like you can't coast or brake or the car will steer itself. And you won't be cranking the wheel like you do with a diff. It will work for high traction only. If it's slippery, use diff's.

Oneways are not for everyone. It will dramatically change the way you drive! Some are faster with it, some aren't.... But it's a fun thing to play with I must add...

[TRI-TURBO]

Just out of curiosity, has anybody tried to run their 04 with a one-way in the rear? lol:p

[TRF Drive Hard]

You cant... the gear will be flipped around defeating the one way bearing... it will only "slide";)

[monyet fangkeh]

what do u mean by steering slop? im just curious cos i read few pages back about the steering slop thingy.

[TEM]

Slop?, this car is all about slop. Slop everywhere!.. infact, if you did a search I made a post somewhere where it was agreed by others when I said that a Hudy setup station is too good for this car cause of the slop.

So back to your question about the steering slop. Now lets assume you have the car sitting down flat or even on a stand. You hold the front wheel(either or both) and you move the wheel like you would "manually steering" it but not to as far as making the servo move. You will notice some play in the wheels; like you can turn them several degrees in either direction without moving the servo; well thats the slop we are talking about. There are a few causes to the slop. The linkages and the servosaver. The stock white servo saver is crap. It will develop a load of slop(conspiracy to get you to buy another one) Replace it with the black heavy duty one. You will be removing all the servosaver slop there. As for the linkages/ball cups. There are 2 things you can do. Buy a few packages of ball cups and test each one for tightness(it should be freely rotating but no evident play). Each ball cup fits each ball differently so you must test for each!!!! For the best and ultimate(non TCS legal) is to buy the ball link they use on RC helicopters; the one with the setscrew to adjust tightness. You MIGHT have to replace the ballstuds depending on which ones you get. But those are THE BEST for no slop. An aluminium steering is available, but it's not the plastic flexing causing slop. Get those if you break your plastic stock one.

Experts say it's harder to drive a car that has absolutely no slop. But we never get that far in slop removal anyways. Less slop is noticably better.

Mama says; "Slop is the devil!"

[hanafuda]

Is the TA04R just the same as a TA04S, only with additional hop up options and a chassis constructed from different materials? If not, could someone explain the specifics please?

Also, are the bodies interchangeable between the two?

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by hanafuda
Is the TA04R just the same as a TA04S, only with additional hop up options and a chassis constructed from different materials? If not, could someone explain the specifics please?

Also, are the bodies interchangeable between the two?

They appear to look the same...But there is a HUGE list of differences in the components included in the kits...The "R" kit is a the full "racing" version of the TA04 - even better equipped than the TA04Pro. The "S" version is the "sport" version of the TA04 - economically equipped with basher quality parts...

In order to be competitive with an "S" version of the car, you would need to shell out big $$ to get everything that the "R" kit included standard...The "R" is a TRF (Tamiya Racing Factory) kit without the "TRF" badging :D

And yes, any body for a TA04 will fit either chassis :D

Bang for you buck - the TA04R. Check out http://www.tamiyausa.com for the actual specs on the two kits....There are many differences in the kits, here are a couple:

* "R" ball diffs - "S" 3 gear diffs
* "R" thread aluminum shock with yellow springs - "S" plastic body shocks, silver light springs
* "R" finned aluminum motor heat sink - "S" aluminum plate
* "R" front & rear CVD-style universals - "S" dogbones

Too many to list :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Not to meant too, the molded carbon lightweight chassis and upper carbon deck... adjustable links... bulk beam... low friction belts... just a few to mention also:D

[hanafuda]

Many thanks. Looks like I will have to get saving for the TA04R then!

I am glad you can swap bodies between the two, as I am not that keen on the Raybrig one that comes with the TA04R in Japan, and have my mind set on the Calsonic Skyline - I have become attached to that car thanks to Gran Turismo 3!

Thanks again.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya try to get your hands on a carbon skyline:D

[kameleonmn]

Hi all...I was wondering if anyone can help me with a problem. I just got the SSG chassis for my TA04R-Tuned and noticed after installing everything that the rear droop screw is not the chassis when screwed down. If you screw it down to give more droop it just simply screw itself against the the chassis, which I think during normal shock movement will peal the graphite. Does anyone noticed this?...I was thinking about reversing the arms, but then that wouldn't fit the rear sway bars. Any suggestions or answers would be appreciated. Thanks....OUT.

[TRF Drive Hard]

I never had that problem before... try to loosen the tension of the shock... im guessing your rear shock are "hard" when compressed... this could be the problem you are experiencing...

[kameleonmn]

No...it's not the shocks...even with them removed when the long grub screw for adjusting droop is screwed down, it just goes against the chassis...not on it. For the front they made a little wing for this screw but on the rear there's nothing there. The screw would miss the chassis completely if screwed down. I think its a design flaw...unless they intentionally meant it. Meaning goin without this adjustments. To me why make a racing chassis without the droop adjustment.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ah i see what youre saying... so you have the "tuned" chassis kit too? cause i have it also... i looked at mine and mine doesnt come close to rubbing the edge... perhaps you do have a flawed chassis... can u take a pic?

heres another question... the droop screw in the rear... is it facing inward or rear of the drive shaft?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Im thinkin you have the rear arms reversed...

[kameleonmn]

Here is what i'm talkin about...

[TRF Drive Hard]

As i suspected... your rear suspension arms are backward... your mounting shock positions should be facing the rear... there are 2 shock mounts... the other mount is the stablizer mount... but ya, your arms are backwards;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

If im not mistaken too... looks like that the only arm that is incorrect assembly... just flip the arm "upright" this means you need to take apart the right rear and flip the arm... the left rear is fine... i see your droop screw in the rear, which should be inward like i mentioned...

[kameleonmn]

It's my TA04R-Tuned with modifications.

[kameleonmn]

Yea...I see it now...OOPS...maybe i was too much in a haste to try it. Thanks...Man...don't know How i could've missed that...thanks.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Actually, you have somewhat a trf version... the "tuned" spec use the lightweight carbon molded chassis instead of the ssg main chassis... btw, glad to have helped;)

[kameleonmn]

Yea, it's a somewhat TRF now but the core of it is still the R-Tuned. I have the TA04R and the TA04R-tuned so I'm usin the 04R as parts. I have more than enough spare to run a whole racing season. :p

[yf22k]

does anyone know what range of spurs will work with 64 pitch pinions from 36-44 teeth? I'm looking to revive my ta04 and need 64 pitch gears for it.

Thanks,
Keith

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by yf22k
does anyone know what range of spurs will work with 64 pitch pinions from 36-44 teeth? I'm looking to revive my ta04 and need 64 pitch gears for it.

Thanks,
Keith

I'd say the smallest you "could" run is 118...Bbut 120T, 122T, 125t, and 128T will work too

That's what I've been running on mine

[yf22k]

ok thanks

[minijosh]

Does anyone have a spare 120 tooth spur to sell me? I have paypal. I am building up my TA04-SS to be a racer. I got pinions but where I am, there is no ebay allowed. Please help.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Where ya at?

[minijosh]

hey I will pm you where I am.

[minijosh]

opps no pm so I email you TA03 hehe
YGM hehe

[TRF Drive Hard]

yes i got mail... so do you:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

hey guys... tonite i did a lil experiment with the rear sway bar... to me i think its weak... too thin... even the blue sway bar was too thin... soooooo i mounted the front racing sway bar... i used the blue one cause its thicker... and used 5mm ball joints with a 18mm adjustable turnbuckle... heres a pic to see... fits nice too;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

here another pic of it... its my trf...

[TheoDR]

Nice TRF... *drools*

[TEM]

TA03-DH, You've got to be kidding me with them tamiya battery plugs and tape on the wires!!!! BTW, did you get the info on the TRF415?

[TRF Drive Hard]

There is no tape on the wires:confused: and this is just a shelf queen... i usually have a payload in it... such as having a TRF2002 ESC... i saw that 415... looks trick... im trying to get more info on it!:D

[yf22k]

I'm thinking he thought those bullet connectors for the motor was tape lol.

Nice car though. I need to revive my 04 after thanksgiving break

[TRF Drive Hard]

I see what youre saying... it looks like duct tape from here:p thanks to my crappy webcam...

[minijosh]

What spur/pinion do you guys run in your cars? Motors?? I wanna know plz.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by TEM
TA03-DH, You've got to be kidding me with them tamiya battery plugs and tape on the wires!!!! BTW, did you get the info on the TRF415?

TRF 415???? Info, please :D:D:) :confused:

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by minijosh
What spur/pinion do you guys run in your cars? Motors?? I wanna know plz.

When I was running stock, I was using a 118-120t spur with a BIG pinion (42T +) with a Reedy MVP...I think the biggest I was about to squeeze in was a 120T/44T combo - needless to say the motor was smoking hot :) But had plenty of power and low-end...That combo I used outdoors on a roadcourse with 2 high speed turns...

For mod, I've been running 128T spur with 35/36/37 pinions....Havent done a lot of mod racing with it yet :) Weather was bad and now its indoor season...I usually run Trinity D4/Yokomo Zero/Reedy Kr motor...in the 13-10 turn range

[kameleonmn]

Does anyone here uses 48pitch spur and pinion combos. I'm used to racing and calculating with 48p so thats what i'm usin. this is the calcualtions.
(Spur/Pinion) x internal gear ratio(2.133)= Final Drive Ratio

I'm running my car between 6.5 to 7.5 because its pretty long now and alot bigger...but normally it would be between 5.75 to 6.5. Here's my current pinion spur combo.

81/23 X 2.133= 7.511 this gives me more top end speed plus a little mmph still. :D
Still gonna try other combos.

[kameleonmn]

Our track got got longer so it carries more speed all around.

[minijosh]

I only run the 48 pitch on my tamiya's. thanks for the info k_bojar about your gearing. I just bought the 3 pack of large spur gears and I have the 40 and 41 tooth pinion at home now. I cannot wait to hook them up and go zoom!!!!

[TEM]

I think we need to keep an organized archive somewhere with TA04 info. Stuff like setups, hopups, etc....

The gearing issue; I think if you did a search you will find lots of stuff. I've explained it a dozen times. You should be using roll-out and not ratios.

Rollout for TA04 is pinion/spur *(15/32) * tire circumference

circumference = pi*diameter

for stock motors you are looking for a rollout of 26-30mm ish. so you can work out the ratios. VERY VERY motor and surface dependent too. High traction, gear down(smaller pinion, few teeth less), lower traction, gear higher(bigger pinion; few teeth). Also, my monster stocks I gear like 3 teeth smaller pinion then a P2k2.

Arbritrary gearing; 37/128 for rubber tires; monster stock, on asphalt. And like 40 with a P2K2

[kameleonmn]

Hi all...this is my TA04R-Tuned with the SSG lower chassis and my bro's RCLab 7even. I got the delrin diff pulleys comin as well the delrin outdrives for the rear...for the front i'll keep the stock outdrives with the front one-way dif.

[kameleonmn]

Here's another pic of my 04R-Tuned minus the carbon graphite resin chassis. I opted for the SSG instead. Gettin close to race day.:D and my delrin stuff should be comin soon.

[KoE]

Originally posted by TEM
...The gearing issue; I think if you did a search you will find lots of stuff. I've explained it a dozen times. You should be using roll-out and not ratios....

perhaps some like me are still sticking our calculation to just FDR and not roll-out since rubbers don't wear down as fast as foams on stock motors :D

[TEM]

The use of rollout is not just for foams. It is used(and necessary for foam) because it's much more accurate. For example if I was running a 37/128 with a 64mm dia tires; my rollout is 27.24mmpr but if I went up to a 38, my rollout would be 28.65mmpr. Thats a difference of 1.4mm. Now suppose you translated those figures to "ratios"; what would it be? Whatever numbers you get would sure as hell not be as evident as "1.4".. perhaps a .0X? I can tell you that in a race, 1 teeth on the pinion makes a big difference! Ever had someone chase you down on the straight but going BARELY faster than you; just crawling crawling past you. It makes me almost want to cry! When we are talking 12-15 second lap size tracks; you would have been lapped a couple times by the end of 5mins!

Also, if I was to use that motor on a different car; I can start with the same rollout and it should do fine. And I wouldn't have to figure out relative ratios between two cars. You just need a pinion and spur that gives same rollout. I know; you are going to come up with a magical ratio to start off with a for say... stock motor and then gear up or down till it's right. That will work; but I personally find that rollout works much better.

Anyways, do whatever works best for you. If you don't have a working system yet; you can try experimenting with mine.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by TEM
The use of rollout is not just for foams. It is used(and necessary for foam) because it's much more accurate. For example if I was running a 37/128 with a 64mm dia tires; my rollout is 27.24mmpr but if I went up to a 38, my rollout would be 28.65mmpr. Thats a difference of 1.4mm. Now suppose you translated those figures to "ratios"; what would it be? Whatever numbers you get would sure as hell not be as evident as "1.4".. perhaps a .0X? I can tell you that in a race, 1 teeth on the pinion makes a big difference! Ever had someone chase you down on the straight but going BARELY faster than you; just crawling crawling past you. It makes me almost want to cry! When we are talking 12-15 second lap size tracks; you would have been lapped a couple times by the end of 5mins!

Also, if I was to use that motor on a different car; I can start with the same rollout and it should do fine. And I wouldn't have to figure out relative ratios between two cars. You just need a pinion and spur that gives same rollout. I know; you are going to come up with a magical ratio to start off with a for say... stock motor and then gear up or down till it's right. That will work; but I personally find that rollout works much better.

Anyways, do whatever works best for you. If you don't have a working system yet; you can try experimenting with mine.

The other advantage of Roll-out vs Final Drive is that the Roll-Out info can be translated much easier across motor manufacturers - i.e., Reedy vs Trinity vs TOP...As some people know, Trinity (not knocking them) has a few motors that have a "sweet spot" before they blow up - this is where Roll out becomes more beneficial than FDR....I dont know using Roll-Out, because most of the time its a pain in the ass to calculate, but it DOES make a difference between running good and blowing up a motor

[TRF Drive Hard]

This is my R-Tuned 04... with every blue optional part... even the caster blocks...

[TRF Drive Hard]

:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

:D another...

[TRF Drive Hard]

:D and the rear... you can see the caster block too...

[TRF Drive Hard]

The only thing i need to add is the rear racing sway bar, ti screws, ti, axles, and ti upper links/steering links...:D

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
The only thing i need to add is the rear racing sway bar, ti screws, ti, axles, and ti upper links/steering links...:D

Damn...and I thought I dropped a couple of bux into my 04R :D:)

But then again, I race mine every week and bougth and sold the "higher end" tamiya racers to go back to my 04R

[minijosh]

I am getting a ta04R for 85 pounds. Not a bad price for a race car hehe. Might have to retire my SS.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Sounds less than 150usd... is it nib? or used?

[minijosh]

this will make you mad. it is rtr with esc and such hehe.

[Tl-01 dude88]

so how do you guys think about with the tao4-s comparing it to to the TC3?


Better worse?

ohh nice pics kameleonmn and Ta03DH

[kameleonmn]

Well, my trf spec R-tuned is almost complete...but does anyone know where I can get the Blue aluminum steering arms?...I've looked everywhere and can't find it...the places that do have it is out of stock. Does anyone have a set that they want to sell?...if so email me. I found some on ebay but its only the silver ones. Probably won't mind that much, but blue is cooler, but if I can't find the blue ones then i'll probably just get the silver ones. Let me know...thanks. BTW thanks tl01. :D

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Tl-01 dude88
so how do you guys think about with the tao4-s comparing it to to the TC3?


Better worse?

ohh nice pics kameleonmn and Ta03DH

You really shouldnt compare them...They are 2 completely different cars...The TA04S is a SPORT chassis - not specifically made for competitive racing...The TC3 is a high-end race bred, race specific machine...The 04S has plastic molded parts (not better quality composite parts) - the TC3 has rigid molded composite parts out of the box

Shaft drive is more efficient than belt drive cars...Blah blah blah...I'm sure you've heard ALL the arguements :)

I'm know knocking the 04 chassis - I race one every week and beat TC3s...And I've owned a couple of TC3s but I always end up selling them and going back to my 04R chassis...Its the best handling chassis I've ever driven based on my driving style

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
This is my R-Tuned 04... with every blue optional part... even the caster blocks...

You dont have every blue option part ;) :) You're missing the blue spring retainers and the blue aluminum shock mounts (top black plastic piece)

:D I've been throwing around the idea of getting the last piece - just because its gonna make the shocks more durable in high speed crashes ;):) I broke one of the plastic mounts before during a bad race crash - real cool looking crash, bad for the car

[minijosh]

Well I race my TA04-SS against xxx-s's, tc3's, pro 3's, and schumachers and I still keep up with them with no problem. I am still learning to race and so are the others. The only hop up I have done is the awesome phat shocks that are part of the trf series of shocks. You know the floruene coated ones. Other than that, it is stock.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by k_bojar
You dont have every blue option part ;) :) You're missing the blue spring retainers and the blue aluminum shock mounts (top black plastic piece)

:D I've been throwing around the idea of getting the last piece - just because its gonna make the shocks more durable in high speed crashes ;):) I broke one of the plastic mounts before during a bad race crash - real cool looking crash, bad for the car

As a matter of fact i do have the blue shock retainers... and i also have the top caps... but i did not install it in those set of shocks... why, because they are not really that great... they dont have cushions to mount with... its metal on metal... and no mounting hardware is provided... how its suppose to mount is beyound me... i only mounted a set on my trf version... IMHO, the plastic mounts are better...;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey guys check this out... i decided to experiment with my TRF... instead of having torque rods i replaced them with damper units... this i call Reactive Damper Torque Control...:D rather than having stiffness the RDTC can be adjusted... using the short springs and using the same shock fluid in front... or you can try different weights... but i suggest soft or medium springs with 10-40 weight oil... the stiffness can be adjusted by twisting the collar... this, in my theory, can help the cornering roll... lol i dont make sense... anyways i thought this might be fun and see what kinda characteristics i can expect... who knows, it might work... but it has to help in some way... here's a pic... btw, it looks cool too:D

[minijosh]

How does that handle TA03? Looks kind of weird. I guess the only bad this about that would be the added weight of the shocks vs with the torque rods.

[minijosh]

Oh a question for you racers out there. Why haven't I seen any of your/my cars with the cvd's? I have only seen the dog bone drive shafts. I have heard that the cvd's gives alot more power to the ground because of less slop in the axle. Is that true and if so, why doesn't everyone have them? I found that tower does sell them for like 30 bucks a axle.

[yf22k]

unless i'm mistaken i think i see mostly universals...

[minijosh]

Yeah I think that is what I meant to say not cvd's but they are the same thing. link http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXETM2&P=7

[yf22k]

yeah from the looks of these pics they do have universals. I don't think they make blue dogbones...

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by minijosh
How does that handle TA03? Looks kind of weird. I guess the only bad this about that would be the added weight of the shocks vs with the torque rods.

I did not get a chance to test it yet... i was sleepy... work is so tiredsome:(

[TEM]

Where does the confusion come from(perhaps poor naming of parts in websites that sells the stuff?). Lower end models come with dog bones(yes more slop), and universals in the R or better. Blue ones are optional if you want them lighter(put them in rear only due to durability issues). The slop will hurt you when you accelerate initially(each wheel turns slightly differently on the fly cause one has more slop), and stability around a corner(for the same reason but amplified cause you are turning!). Mind you, universals won't save your butt in this sense if you have worn outdrives(dimples forming where the little pin comes into contact with them). And because of the design, weight, etc; the universals are lighter and more efficient.

TA03DH, those shocks in place of the torque rods look nice but I am not sure about those in terms of actual performance; might make your car do weird things cause the way shocks behave. I don't know... Something to do when you have EVERYTHING! Yes you!....

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well im not sure what sense i am making or doining... but im hoping some kind of improved steering response... if you could help me what sort of "sense" it might make or do i gladly appreciate it... i have not yet tested this... its been raining AAALLLLLLLLLLLL freakin day...:(

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by minijosh
Yeah I think that is what I meant to say not cvd's but they are the same thing. link http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXETM2&P=7

To the viewer, the a dogbone and CVD/Universal look the same...The place where the look different is inside the axle cup, which most of the time you cannot see from a pic...

Looking at the pics, TA03HD is running cvds in his cars...If you see someone running the blue aluminum ones, then they are running CVD - or at least Tamiya's version of a cvd since there is not really a universal (think HPI/Yokomo looking universals) of sorts available for the 04 series....The Tamiya universals look like the MIP cvds

[turbo s15]

can someone give a link to the right suspension arms so just incase i want to fit other bodies on the ta04ss and use other bodies.


is there a link on tower.


thanks

[turbo s15]

how bad do rocks get caught in the ta04's

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by turbo s15
how bad do rocks get caught in the ta04's

Depends on what surface... typically a clean prepped surface works best... but if youre running it on a unlclean surface, you risk the chance of getting pebbles inside the belt and getting it chewed up and grinding your spur and pinion with tiny tiny pebbles that get caught between the teeth...

[minijosh]

I run mine outdoors on Saturdays and I have never got a rock in my spur/pinion. The pavement is sort of clean thanks to the wind but now that I said that I will get one today. Hey DriveHard, what are the yellow trf springs rated at?

[TheoDR]

I just switched back to the lightweight composite chassis from the carbon fibre one. Allows me to place the components low down on the chassis. Previously on the CF chassis, I had to mount the reciever and failsafe on top of the servo, since the ESC took up whatever space there was on the left side of the chassis. Gonna try out the handling later. Heh..I think my 04's done up somewhere in between 04R and TRF specs... :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by minijosh
I run mine outdoors on Saturdays and I have never got a rock in my spur/pinion. The pavement is sort of clean thanks to the wind but now that I said that I will get one today. Hey DriveHard, what are the yellow trf springs rated at?

medium hard;)

[TEM]

TheoDR, why are you running a failsafe? I run the composite tub and my RX sits on top of the servo.. doesn't hurt anything really...

And that little rocks getting into the drive train?, depends on how lucky you are. At a race the guy pitting next to me got a spur chewed up cause of that. A small pebble(or a rather large grain of sand) got in my rear diff pulley. Made a rubbing noise when turning the belt.. took it out before it made any real damage. One of the guys were telling me that it's safer to run 48 pitch if you run outdoors a lot cause the pebbles pop back out instead of getting chewed spurs....

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TEM
TheoDR, why are you running a failsafe? I run the composite tub and my RX sits on top of the servo.. doesn't hurt anything really...

And that little rocks getting into the drive train?, depends on how lucky you are. At a race the guy pitting next to me got a spur chewed up cause of that. A small pebble(or a rather large grain of sand) got in my rear diff pulley. Made a rubbing noise when turning the belt.. took it out before it made any real damage. One of the guys were telling me that it's safer to run 48 pitch if you run outdoors a lot cause the pebbles pop back out instead of getting chewed spurs....

Heh, I'm running a failsafe cus there's a lot of radio interference in my area. Besides, I saw one guy's Xray EVO2 ram a track divider at full speed (using 10 turn or lower brushless equivalent) because some idiot was using the same freq and playing with his car while the race was on.

My car seems to take turns better now....hmm, interesting to see what a lower CG can do! Shld be converting my stick pack to a side-by-side soon. A question, can I hold down a side by side with the provided battery holders? Or do I need to use straps?

Will be getting one set of those blue anod TRF flourine shocks next week..hehehhee...to complete the cool blue look. (yes, I know I'm crazy)

Current setup: Gears: 24/96 (48 pitch), 8.53 ratio
ESC: LRP F1 Pro reverse (blue too! :D )
Motor: Trinity Speed Gems 10 turn triple
Center one way
Blue anod lightweight universals in the rear
Ball diffs with delrin lightweight outdrives
Venom Failsafe
Futaba 2PL radio gear

Hmm...wonder if the F1 Pro Reverse can handle a 7 turn Krypton? Does anyone know?

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by hanafuda
I own two Tamiya off-road cars, but am now looking at a road car so that I can get more out of circuit visits.

At the moment I am thinking about the TA04-SS Audi TT-R. Can anyone recommend this as my first road car, or is there anything more suitable? I would like something that is going to be competitive, or at least competitive after some tune-ups.

Thanks. Get a Tamiya TA04R or TA04R-Tuned. Best value for money 04 chassis kit. :D

[TEM]

I think you guys can find out who is doing the interferring and hang him (depending on what State you're in of course). I've been hit a couple times; after a good yelling into the guys face it seem to have stopped. Now he walks up to me and ask if it's ok to turn on his radio!

You can use those plastic retainers to hold down a side by side pack, but if you hit something hard, your pack can get twisted(the center cells flex upwards and the battery bar bends. You can use heat shrink over the whole entire pack(kinda like what airplane people do) OR run tape around the cells/chassis to hold the cells down OR glue the cells together. "Straps" seem to be more convenient over tape but tape is actually better(thinner and so doesn't rub the ground as much) and lighter. Speaking of side by side; if you run GP3300's with individual shrink on each cell, the pack WILL NOT FIT into the chassis cause the cells are SLIGHTLY bigger. So for my GP's, I have to shrink the pack as a whole to have them protected.

There isn't much CG lowering benefits if you go from the carbon(non side by side) to the tub UNLESS you switch to side by side packs. That difference is very significant.

Look into a front oneway cause that center one by itself doesn't do much cause you still have front differential action.

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TEM
I think you guys can find out who is doing the interferring and hang him (depending on what State you're in of course). I've been hit a couple times; after a good yelling into the guys face it seem to have stopped. Now he walks up to me and ask if it's ok to turn on his radio!

You can use those plastic retainers to hold down a side by side pack, but if you hit something hard, your pack can get twisted(the center cells flex upwards and the battery bar bends. You can use heat shrink over the whole entire pack(kinda like what airplane people do) OR run tape around the cells/chassis to hold the cells down OR glue the cells together. "Straps" seem to be more convenient over tape but tape is actually better(thinner and so doesn't rub the ground as much) and lighter. Speaking of side by side; if you run GP3300's with individual shrink on each cell, the pack WILL NOT FIT into the chassis cause the cells are SLIGHTLY bigger. So for my GP's, I have to shrink the pack as a whole to have them protected.

There isn't much CG lowering benefits if you go from the carbon(non side by side) to the tub UNLESS you switch to side by side packs. That difference is very significant.

Look into a front oneway cause that center one by itself doesn't do much cause you still have front differential action. Thanks man! I should be disassembling and changing my packs to side by side very soon. Might be getting the SSG carbon battery retainers later. Yep, Tamiya does sell them separately. Will put the part number here later for those who're interested in them. Heh, I'm getting them more for looks. There's nothing much else I can do with my TA04 now, except to improve its driver's skills! Haha!! Heh, I chose the center one way partly because I wanted to retain the differential's properties. :p

[TRF Drive Hard]

And here is the part number: 53675 ;)

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
And here is the part number: 53675 ;) Woottt! Thanks man! I'll be doing up my TA04 in a blue, orange and silver colour scheme. Anyway, since blue and orange are complementary colours and I think the SSG shock towers would give the car a nice overall look. :D It'll also have the same colours as one of my fav cars; the '95 Gulf Mc Laren F1 LM. :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Sweetness... post pics if available...;)

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Sweetness... post pics if available...;) Heh, will have to get some of those "round head" screws later. Bought a packet of 20 orange ball end joints to replace the stock black Tamiya ones. *drool drool drool*

[TRF Drive Hard]

You should get some good ol' titanium screws:D

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
You should get some good ol' titanium screws:D Hurhurhur, 90% of my chassis is using Ti screws. :D Mabbe I shld get the balance later! :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

So why the round head screws???:confused:

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
So why the round head screws???:confused: Hmm...depends..may have to get countersunk instead. I don't think the joints will rotate freely if I use round heads. Though I still have to get some round head ones for the shock towers, where the shocks fasten on.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ah ok... then i would suggest the flathead... using the roundhead will inhibit the movement between the joints... but where will these be used? the upper links? or?

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Ah ok... then i would suggest the flathead... using the roundhead will inhibit the movement between the joints... but where will these be used? the upper links? or? Dun think I can use them on the front upper links. Most prob the orange bits will go to the steering and rear susp links.

[TheoDR]

Ok, I'm going off to the Tamiya warehouse now...will be back later! :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Warehouse? lol i got a box full of goodies:D

[KoE]

anyone knows what pitch this pinion set is? 64p? 48p?

50354 - 16T,17T AV Pinion Gear Set

[TRF Drive Hard]

Actually i think its 42pitch... .6 module...

[tl-01 4 Life]

When my friend bought his carbon fiber chassis he needed to buy some kind of new battery holder and I would like to find out what the part number is?

I'm going to be buying a Carbon Fiber Chassis for my brother for Christmas and I was wondering what I need? I'm going to be buying these for him:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZR86&P=7

&

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCCV8&P=7

And I was wondering if I need to buy either of these:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWB89&P=7

or

The one that came stock with his kit.

Any info would be GREAT.

THANKS, tl-01 4 Life

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by tl-01 4 Life
When my friend bought his carbon fiber chassis he needed to buy some kind of new battery holder and I would like to find out what the part number is?

I'm going to be buying a Carbon Fiber Chassis for my brother for Christmas and I was wondering what I need? I'm going to be buying these for him:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZR86&P=7

&

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCCV8&P=7

And I was wondering if I need to buy either of these:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWB89&P=7

or

The one that came stock with his kit.

Any info would be GREAT.

THANKS, tl-01 4 Life

If your friend got the carbon plate chassis then he needs http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWB89&P=7 to complete it with...

now if youre getting your bro an upgrade too... the the first 2 link are fine... but you also need the battery strap...

i did leave a part number a few post above... those will work and they are the ssg type... now you could go outta your way to get ssg parts for your bro... like
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/tamc6405.jpg
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/tamc6407.jpg
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/tamc6408.jpg
and this is the link for the battery strap
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFSF2&P=7

with these you can make your bros car feel like a "R Tuned" kit;)

[tl-01 4 Life]

Sorry if I'm being dumb, but I can't afford all that ssg stuff, even the battery strap.

But are these the same parts for the car (go in same location)? Could I get one rather than the other fro my bros car because I would rather get the cheaper one to hold the battery down:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFSF2&P=7
AND
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWB89&P=7

What I really am trying to understand is, are these battery holders necessary to put a carbon chassis on my bros stock ta04 or can I use what it has now (stock battery holder)?

Sorry, but I have no knowledge of ta04's only tl-01's.

*tl-01 4 Life*

[TRF Drive Hard]

Those are what you need... the first link is for the tub type chassis like the lightweigh chassis you want for your bro... the second link is for what your friend needs if he got the carbon chassis plate...

[tl-01 4 Life]

TA03 Drive Hard: Thanks for all the help I have one last question for you or anyone else.

Where else can I find this:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWT99&P=7

This is a great package and would be perfect for a gift, but stupid towerhobbies (I really love them though) had to discontinue it, is there anywhere else online that would carry this?

THANKS, tl-01 4 Life

[TRF Drive Hard]

The only place i can tell ya is ebay... with rcboyz... they should have it...

[TRF Drive Hard]

This guy is selling an unused set... just the one your looking for...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3162929188&category=34063

[turbo s15]

is the ta04r ok for good clean parking lot racing.

or is it realy meant to race.

would it be better getting a ta04s.
i was looking at that but you get more hop-ups in the ta04r and if i tried to get all the same parts it would be more.


im just going parking lot for now.

prolly race soon.


thanks
:D

[minijosh]

I'm gonna say get the R version. I have the SS version and now I'm buying all the bits slowly. Learning how to drive again with each new hop up too. Cost a bit more at first but look at it like this. If you buy crap now, and you want to compete, they you will end up buying the higher dollar stuff later. So just cut out the crap and get the good stuff. Why keep buying bad batteries and throwing them away when you can get the best and run them for a long time? Makes sense in the end.

[turbo s15]

cool

i will prolly do that cuz they discontiued the mr-s kit so ill prolly get the raybrig nsx.

is it meant for racing though.
im just going for parking lot racing and needed to know if it is durable or not.

i don't want to get a tb-02 and the tb evo series are too much so the ta04r is my next best bet.

thanks

[TheoDR]

Get a set or two of the lightweight diff outdrives and one pair of the blue anodized lightweight universal shafts (for the rear) to go with your TA04R. That should be more than enough to make the car even racier! :D

[KoE]

Originally posted by minijosh
I'm gonna say get the R version. I have the SS version and now I'm buying all the bits slowly. Learning how to drive again with each new hop up too. Cost a bit more at first but ....

i share minijosh's sentiment. started mine with an SS too. too scared to look at how much i've spent to hop up the car to race. perhaps lhs's monopoly has much to blame as well :p

within the same matter, any 04 owner having extra NIB parts like front/centre one-way or something and looking for fresh supply of tires let me know

TakeOff CS27R (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=145947)

[minijosh]

to convert my SS to normal size, I just need new arms right?

[turbo s15]

yep

[TheoDR]

Finally got pics of my 04! :D

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-12/543170/TA04c.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-12/543170/TA04a.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-12/543170/TA04d.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-12/543170/TA04e.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-12/543170/TA04b.jpg

[TRF Drive Hard]

Nice 04R... here's a tip... the front shock... lose the other piece... if youre using the front racing body mount, you dont need that second piece... a simple weight reducer;)

[TEM]

Looks like a fine example of a TA04 to me too! More tips; if you race, get rid of that digusting stock servo saver and upgrade to the Tamiya black racing one. That takes out mounds of slop of the stock one(grip the stock one and try nugging it; you will find left and right play! ENOUGHT TO GET YOU KILLED). For more agressive steering; try putting the ball studs on the holes closer forward on the steering knuckles. Make side by side packs! BIG BIG DIFFERENCE! Very good grip; white/blue ok.. otherwise blue/yellow most of the time.

On a side note; Those blue wheel nuts are beautiful(I bought a set myself). But if you race, they become real ugly real fast.. Uglier than if you just kept on some black ones! That green thing is the fail safe, right? I know I said it before; but HANG the guy who's giving you hits and take it off your car!

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Nice 04R... here's a tip... the front shock... lose the other piece... if youre using the front racing body mount, you dont need that second piece... a simple weight reducer;) You mean the carbon shock tower? :D

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TEM
Looks like a fine example of a TA04 to me too! More tips; if you race, get rid of that digusting stock servo saver and upgrade to the Tamiya black racing one. That takes out mounds of slop of the stock one(grip the stock one and try nugging it; you will find left and right play! ENOUGHT TO GET YOU KILLED). For more agressive steering; try putting the ball studs on the holes closer forward on the steering knuckles. Make side by side packs! BIG BIG DIFFERENCE! Very good grip; white/blue ok.. otherwise blue/yellow most of the time.

On a side note; Those blue wheel nuts are beautiful(I bought a set myself). But if you race, they become real ugly real fast.. Uglier than if you just kept on some black ones! That green thing is the fail safe, right? I know I said it before; but HANG the guy who's giving you hits and take it off your car! Haha, thanks! I love the blue wheelnuts too! Bought them aftermarket, not from Tamiya.

Do you know what's the part number for the black servo saver? The white one has too much slop...so much so that my car doesn't steer straight at neutral after I've turned in either direction.

Hehe, I've set the car up for understeer cus now I usually go to a big track, where those 1/8th Serpent owners race. :eek: Hurhur, I've gotten myself a battery jig, gonna convert my packs soon! :D

[TheoDR]

Hehe, I treasure this baby man.... got it as a 04S (full bearings) with no shocks and various other parts missing from my friend. :p Did it up bit by bit. I had the lower carbon chassis, but decided to switch to the composite one. Cheaper to replace if its damaged too..haha... Handles like a dream! Except for the slight steering problem of course, thanks to the servo saver... :rolleyes:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hi-Torque Servo Saver (Black) part #51000

[TheoDR]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Hi-Torque Servo Saver (Black) part #51000 Woottt, thanks!

[TRF Drive Hard]

WOOT WELCOME WOOT :D

[minijosh]

Well I finally got my ball diff in the rear so I am all ball diffed out. I killed my 120 tooth while racing by a very bad mesh. WOW a bad mesh while racing sounds weird. Well needless to say I am back to my stock spur gear with the 25 tooth pinion. If I throw that 27 I have on, that will decrease my take off but add to my top end right? I don't want a lecture about roll out or you should switch to blah blah blah, I'm a simple man and a simple racer. I race for that fun you guys use to race for before you started getting all competitive. I'm competitive but I remember why I am there. To talk trash with non tamiya owners and have fun. One of our track pro's took my car for a drive and said I have way too much understeer so he suggested hard springs up front and soft in the rear. Any help guys if this will help me out. I am running 40 weight all the way around. I just cleaned out the bearings so it is a flawless drive train now.

[TRF Drive Hard]

You running a .04 module or .06?

[minijosh]

toes tamiya make both? if so then i know my problem but the package that i have says that the spur i was runnng will work this this part number and that is what i had.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya tamiya makes both... usually the "stock" kits come with the .06 module gears... the "pro" levels have the .04 module...

[minijosh]

I thought I was running .4 but the package of rc bits says .4 hehe. I just checked the package from the spur and the pinions and they both are .4. I guess my mesh was wrong DOH!!!!!

[TheoDR]

I just went to the Tamiya warehouse here just now. Tamiya now has titanium wheel axles, part number is 53618 if I'm not wrong. Costs 3800 yen.

[KoE]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Nice 04R... here's a tip... the front shock... lose the other piece... if youre using the front racing body mount, you dont need that second piece... a simple weight reducer;)
Originally posted by TheoDR
You mean the carbon shock tower? :D

drive hard...u meant i can get away with only 1 front shock? won't it tweak the car? :eek: