Tamiya Twin Detonator

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well outta interest... i decided to create this thread... for a dual motor truck, this looks cool... almost based off the tl01... chassis concept wise... i was thinkin of replacing the suspension arms with the tl01 long arm suspension... but the wheel base is 281mm... so thats a bit long... but... perhaps if it were possible to make a street version of it... using street tires instead of the monster wheels... so does anyone have this new truck? got pics? anything? :D

Ted

[creep]

I dont have the Twin, but I have I Wild Dagger which is the exact same thing and it's an awsome little truck, very under appreciated.

RCCA did a project Dagger a while back with a battery pack (7 cell I think) and a ESC for each motor. It was set up for street running with a lowered stance and street tires.

The only real problem is lack of aftermarket support.

[cheechthechi]

Hi

GPM makes some good aluminum aftermarket parts for the wild dagger (and the twin denonater) . They also make universals fro the truck.

cheech

[pagedm]

Hi Guys,
I bought myself a Twin Detonator last week while I was in Hong Kong, I found a nice hobby shop that stocks just about everything Tamiya has on offer. Not to mention cheap, I got it for $135.00 Australian dollars, to buy it here locally in Sydney they are asking around $300.00.

It is pretty much stock except for the 53155 low friction dampers and FULLY kitted out with ball bearings. I also slightly customised the paint job, as you can see I painted the section in front of the flames red and the rest solid blue, instead of all metallic blue like Tamiya has it. I like the look of it better anyway. Doing the body is always my favourite part of building these cars.
Next up will be a couple of mild motors and an ESC.

Here is a photo on my front lawn.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pagedm/twindetonator.jpg

[cheechthechi]

Hi

Cool 'dagger. I like the paint job you've done on the truck. Check out some of the cool dagger mods that have been done on ****.net.

[RichieRich]

I have a Blackfoot Xtreme which is very similar. Has anyone used the fiberglass shock towers made by Xtreme Racing? They allow you to put better/longer shocks on the suspension.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Im still debating on getting this... id like to make a street version of it... :D

[creep]

I have a Blackfoot Xtreme which is very similar. Has anyone used the fiberglass shock towers made by Xtreme Racing? They allow you to put better/longer shocks on the suspension.

Try making some first, there not that hard to make.

[RichieRich]

Try making some first, there not that hard to make.

I don't feel like making my own which is why I was asking about them.

[cheechthechi]

Wow an onroad wild dagger, that sounds like a cool idea. Just add some tlo1 suspension arms and ta04 universals and that would be a real fast touring car.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Thats what im saying... but the wheel base is a bit long so touring bods wont fit... im thinkin a truck bod would be ok... just have to look for the right wheels and tires for an on road truck... :D

[creep]

Thats what im saying... but the wheel base is a bit long so touring bods wont fit... im thinkin a truck bod would be ok... just have to look for the right wheels and tires for an on road truck... :D

Maybe a 1/8 scale Super Nitro RS4 body would fit if you keep the Dagger/Detonator arms and used Super Nitro wheels.

[BrianFlorian]

I've been out of the hobby for about 10 years now (I used to have a King Cab and a Schumacher Shotgun so that gives you an idea how long its been).
I want to get back into it, not so much the competitive racing, but just something to bounce around in the back year. The Tamiya Bruiser was always my dream rig but I could not afford one then and certainly could never afford one of the Ebay'ed ones now.

I've been looking at the Twin Detonator and wonder if it might not make a good "poor man's Bruiser".

Specific questions:
-Can it be slowed down? It does not look like you can use anything smaller than a 18T pinion.
-Will it, or will it not take 4" oil shocks?
-How many 11x5 bearings does it need? I've seen claims of 20 and 24.
-How does Tamiya expect you to wire the motors? Series or Parallel?

[pagedm]

To fully ball race the twin detonator you will need 24 bearings, the gear boxes come pre-assembled with plastic and metal bushes. The bearings are so cheap now it doesn't ad much to the cost of a kit.

As for slowing it down, I doubt you would ever get it down to the low geared speeds of a bruiser. With the standard motors & a good ESC you can run it pretty slow anyway.

I don't know about 4" oil shocks, it has heaps of suspension travel but I don't think it will take shocks that long. I will take one off and measure the full suspension travel when i get home for work and reply.

The motors are wired in parallel

Daniel

[BrianFlorian]

Daniel,

Thanks for the reply. Are the stock shocks 3" standard or are they even smaller than that? If I read Tamiya's site correctly, they list the "mini" CVA shock as the compatible oil unit but that seams like it would leave the arms no travel at all.

Parallel you say? Humm....Could wire in series, get twice the torque, half the speed, and could use a more basic ESC.....

[pagedm]

I put the Tamiya Low Friction Alloy Damper set (53155) on my truck (see photo below on previous post) because I had them spare from another car.
I am on the hunt for some longer travel shocks, I did look a while back at what the travel was but forgot what the measurement was, I do know that when the suspension arms are all the way down & all the way up the drive shafts still spin freely and don't bind so I don't think there will be any problem putting really long shocks on it. As I mentioned earlier I will measure it tonight and post some photos aswell. I am in Sydney so tonight is about 7 hours from now.

As for wiring them in series, I don't know about twice the torque but they will definately not run as fast, and yes you could then put a cheaper ESC on it.

Daniel

[pagedm]

I removed a shock and measured the travel, it has about 3 1/2" but needs to come back to 3" so the steering hub doesn't hit on the drive shaft at full steering lock, so I think 3" shocks should be no problem. I am going to put a set on my shopping list :)

http://members.optusnet.com.au/pagedm/tdshock.jpg

[BrianFlorian]

So it looks like I should plan on some form of "3inch front" shock all arround. Whats confusing is this page at Tamiya:
http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcitem/parts/rc65.htm

According to that page, the Wild Dagger/Twin Detonator would take the 50519 "Mini" oil shock, not the 50520 "Short/Front" unit. That makes no sense. The 50519 is the same shock used on the mini cooper for crying out loud.

[pagedm]

Yeah, that doesn't seem right, I am going to get some 3" shocks and see how she goes, it handles great with the ones on it but would definately look cooler with higher suspension, plus I just bought a Tamiya TB01 Lancer EVO VII so I want to put existing the shocks on to it.

[BrianFlorian]

As for wiring them in series, I don't know about twice the torque...

I got that thought from here:
http://www.teamnovak.com/How_to/Dual_motor/dual_mot.html

Now that I re-read it, I'm not sure if they are saying series gives twice the torque of parallel, or if they are simply saying that in series, you will get the speed and runtime of a 2 x turn motor with twice the torque as compared to one motor.

By the Way, does anyone know off hand how many turns Tamiya's stock 540 motor is?

[RichieRich]

Guys - Here's what I did with my Blackfoot Xtreme. This should be similar to the twin detonator's suspension setup. I added longer shocks for more suspension travel and larger shock towers. Now, this is more like it.

http://www.mindspring.com/~rgrodriguez/front.jpg


http://www.mindspring.com/~rgrodriguez/back.jpg

[creep]

Homemade shockmounts and 4" shocks

[BrianFlorian]

That looks pretty cool, but if (lets just say hypothetically) you are only traveling 1" peak to peak, a 4" shock is not doing any more than a 3" or 2.5", its just looking pretty.

The real question is not what the distance is from the top to the bottom shock mounts, rather the question is: what is the maximum peak to peak travel of the (outer most) shock mount on the bottom arm as you swing the arm up and down? From what Daniel was saying, it sounds like at one extreme (which extreme was that?) there is interference with the steering so we actually need to keep it within a certain range.

[RichieRich]

Yeah, the longer shocks definitely look better and the gain in suspension travel is minimal. Though, it can easily be changed by using different mounting holes in the suspension arms and shock towers. The problem with the stock setup, with the smaller shocks is that it looks a little weird with such small shocks on a big truck. Plus, the suspension travel is not being used to it's potential.

I did notice some interference with the steering rods on the uptravel. Actually, it's only on one side. It's the side with the unused switch mount. When the suspension hits maximum compression, the steering rod hits the unused switch mount and limits the travel a bit.

[BrianFlorian]

Could maybe cut a grove in the chassis right there?

Well now I cant wait to get mine and start fidling! :)

Darn this city with no decent hobbie store. Going to have to mail order...

[BrianFlorian]

What are people using for ECSs on this truck? How many turns is Tamiya's stock motors anyway? I'm guessing 27 which would mean that in order to leave them in series you need an expensive 13T compatible ESC.

[creep]

I was using a Super Rooster w/ 2 SpeedGems2 17t motors until I burned them both up in different trucks. :o

[Doomed]

I am using a Novak EVX with 12 cells running 27 turn stockers until they blow and then I have a pair of Titans waiting.

[dodgefreak]

hey guys, i'm from belgium :)
I use a Novak Super Rooster and a 7,2 - 3.000 mha batterie, 2 Tamiya's stock motors on my twin detonator .
I was wondering what motors I should get for it? Somwhere around 17-21 turns. Double or single i realy d'ont know :confused:
What are some good motors,
Got any suggestions?

thx :)

[BdB390]

Hey guys
Ive got an evader now but am going to be getting a Twin Detonator shortly. This Truck is twin engine so how exactly are you uses a single motor esc to run both the motors?? Are you guys splitting the wires or what, I figured youd need a Traxxas EVX to make it work. :confused: I see that the wave of custom mods is comming in nicely, great work guys keep em' commin' When I git my detonator im going to use my evader radio stuff and throw on Masher 2000's and regear it to run the tires for more ground clearance.

[creep]

The EVX uses 14.4 volts so you would have to run 2 battery packs. The super rooster can be hooked up 2 ways, split the wires from eack motor lead or one lead to one motor, the other lead to the other motor and another wire from motor to motor. The directions that come with the Super Rooster shows how to do it and explains the benefits and drawback of each method.

[Janders]

A super rooster with 8-10 cells and some 15-17 turn motors is fun on the Dagger/Detonator and very quick.

I run my Super Rooster on my dagger with 550 titan sized motors on twin packs and it's pretty fast. :D

[BdB390]

That sounds great, Ill have to look into it a little more. I was looking at www.rcguy.com and I liked the looks of the dual batter chassis for the detonator, looks real nice and solid but its kind of expensive. What kind of ground clearence is the Detonator pulling stock?? Looks less than my evader but the 4wd would more than make up for it I believe.

[hotrods10355]

I might be able to hook you up with a duel battery chassis. I am building one right now. I have cnc machined chassis rails, cnc machined aluminum swing arms, and I am using RS4 MT dog bones. It is really close to the width and leangth of an EMaxx. I am using the EVX and tamiya 540's but plans for 19T singles are in the works. As far as chassis rails and cross memebers I think I have another set lying around. I had a couple made, my buddy made them at work. I will post pics soon, I am almost done with the project. Maybe this weekend!

[BdB390]

Hotrods,
Sounds interesting, I got kinda lost though when you said swing-arm, do you mean A-arms?? Or is this setup like a TXT-1 with articulating axles?? It sounds cool and I cant wait to see the pics, I had some ideas of my own for making a chassis but dont have the equipment to do it. Ill get if figured out when I see the pics.

[hotrods10355]

Yeah they are a arms. Should get everything put together today or monday.

[BdB390]

I got my detonator yesterday and got it all together today useing the mech. speed control and the radio gear from the evader. This thing has awesome off-road ability, and it rips pretty good for being a stocker, I was very impressed with it. It says in the manual not to glue the tires, but I was gonna put foams in them and glue them, will that trash the tranny and the motor?? I know itll be more fun.....

[Janders]

You can glue the tires no problem..the tranny is just short of indestructable

[BdB390]

I put foams in the tires and glued them, this thing really does rip, i must say. Wheelies are on tap and are plentiful, it jumps fairly descent, and handles well. Is it possible to use my Evader ST esc?? If it was do-able you could just wire the motors the way you would with the super rooster, no? Im not sure if it would just cook it so im not going to mess with it yet. Im not posative of the turn-capacity of this ESC, never really needed to know, but an ESC would really make it easy to off-road with having more precise throttle control.

[Doomed]

Here's my TD with a Baja body. Used some old decals from other kits...

http://www.pbase.com/image/30753206/large.jpg


http://www.pbase.com/image/30753231.jpg


http://www.pbase.com/image/30753283.jpg

[hanafuda]

Cool. Did you have to do any modifications to that body to make it fit?

[hanafuda]

Apologies for the double post - I have this on the Wild Dagger thread, but there doesn't seem to be much life there.

Anyway, the following applies to my Wild Dagger, but seen as it is pretty similar to the TD I thought I would try for a response here.

===

My Super Rooster is now finally on order, so I should have it soon.

In the meantime, I need to work out exactly what I need to do in order to make the conversion from stock MSC to the new ESC. I want to run the motors in parallel.

My soldering skills are poor at best, so would like some ideas at how I should practise before I start the job in hand - I don't want to ruin a brand new Rooster.

Also, if anyone has any tips in regard to the type of joins / connectors / wiring that I should use I would appreciate it. I heard that the Rooster comes with a diagram to explain how to wire it up to two motors in parralel plus the receiver and battery so I should be covered there.

[Doomed]

Cool. Did you have to do any modifications to that body to make it fit?

Nope, just used the stock mounts.

[BdB390]

Hey guys...nice job doomed...I got a shock setup for everyone who wants more travel and ground clearence, Duratrax Eavader ST EP front shocks all the way around, with hard springs (the medium springs are too weak and it makes the shocks bottom out on acceleration) The suspension action is great and the shocks go right on. I have springs,shock oil, and a new set for the front in the mail. When I get it all together ill take some pictures and if yall are intereseted I can git some part #'s for ya.

[hanafuda]

Sounds good. I am after the same thing for my Wild Dagger. Do you know if that set up will fit a Dagger too?

Doomed - that is a Blitzer Beetle body isn't it?

[Doomed]

hanafuda- It is a lexan body by Parma or Proline, I can't remember right now sorry. And if the shocks fit a TD they will fit a WD as they are the same truck, just different body and color of wheels.

[Janders]

You can screw in just about any buggy shock mount with a solid center(to bolt on to the stock shock tower) with just minimal modification. I think my shock towers were about $2 each for some associated buggy, and I just moved them around until the 4' shocks fit.

[BdB390]

That sounds like it work as well...My setup works great, improves handling, and gives it real nice ground clearance..im having a new problem now, losing shoulder screws on the front hubs(??) I lost 2 and had to replace them with some assorted ones from my stash...lost them too. They make aluminum replacement parts yet for the TD? I think thatll help becuase it just peels the threads out of the plastic hubs.

[Janders]

GPM makes a lot of aluminum parts for the dagger/detonator(c-hubs, arms, etc.).

[BdB390]

Great...but now I cant find a part number for the 4x11.5 step screws I need....there in one of the metal parts bags and im not paying 30 bucks to get a parts bag when all I need is 2 little screws!!! :mad: is there a dagger or blackfoot part number for the same thing?? i kno there all the same trucks, lemme know if anybody knows the part number for 4x11.5mm step screws. or will the 4x10mm step screws work?

[BdB390]

$40 for a set of alloy front bearing c hubs??!!! are they on drugs?

[Janders]

I used the emaxx upper shock step screws and they worked great..I'll see if I can find the part number on tower...Also, I put a tiny drop of super/CA glue on the threads before I screw them in.

[BdB390]

sounds good. I found some screws in my stash that where as wide as the top part but wider than the bottom hole, so i just screwed it in all the way, messed up the bottom screw hole but im just gonna get some aluminum ones, atleast they stay in and dont wobble around

[tperkins]

I am thinking about getting a Twin Detonator, and I was wondering if anybody has tried this chassis http://www.rcguy.com/products/wild/wilddagger.php It has a 1 inch longer wheelbase, and lets you run 4 inch shocks and dual battery packs. and its only $125.

[Doomed]

Have not tried it but I have heard from other people that have and they love it. Best reason to get it, to me, is the dual batts. and the towers for 4in shocks. I would say if you have the coin, go for it!

[BdB390]

I run 4 in shocks and havent had any problems related to them...unless of corse losing a rear driveshaft has to do with the shocks?? It was very odd, but i dont think i tightened enough screws when I put it back together......oh by the way janders you wouldnt happen to know what drive shafts would work on the TD would ya?? parts bag A is on backorder and I want them NOW... I still cant figure out how I lost the right rear drive shaft...I was hillclimbing when i noticed it making wierd noises, and thats when I lost the shaft...Im gonna make some mounts for the shocks since there not at maximum travel fully extended anyways....maybe thatll help my screw/shaft problems

[hanafuda]

My Super Rooster has just arrived, so I have ripped out the old MSC. I guess most people mount their ESCs in the same place as the stock MSC, but how do you mount it? Any suggestions?

[Janders]

judt slap it on with doublesided tape

[hanafuda]

Sounds good.

I was thinking of moving the receiver to the back of the chassis where the stock MSC used to be so that all of the radio equipment (receiver and antenna) are together at the back, then mounting the Rooster in the middle where the receiver goes.

Any thoughts?

[aknitroguy]

Can anyone tell me if the motor mounts are adjustable? (for different sized pinion gears) I can't tell from pictures and it is the determining factor on whether or not to get one... Thank you kindly

[dabait]

I finally took the plunge and bought a TD... should be seeing it in a few days. The only extras I ordered with it are bearings, ESC, and 4" shocks. I don't have an exact plan for mounting the shocks, though making a shock-tower would be pretty simple... and I've seen a few after-market solutions as well.

As far as getting full use of the 4" shock suspension travel, I'll have to wait until it gets here to figure that out. I'd successfully converted an HPI RS4-3 SS (nitro) from a road car to rally car .... got about another 1/2" of travel after some simple mods to the chassis and arms. I think the problem here is going to be the drive angle, and that's tougher to address.

Regarding the chassis... I'll see what the stock setup is like. The one from RC-Guy looks nice, but I don't want to lengthen the wheelbase. Someone else makes a carbon chassis for not much more than the RC-Guy's, but I haven't read anything about it. Perhaps I'll get brave and try to crank one out on my mill.

From what I've read, the TD is essentially the same as the Wild Dagger... which would imply parts would be interchangable. True? Would I be able to buy swing-arms spec'ed for the WD and expect them to fit the TD?

[dabait]

I run 4 in shocks and havent had any problems related to them...unless of corse losing a rear driveshaft has to do with the shocks??


If the drive angle is too steep (the angle from the diff down to the wheel hub), then it's possible for the dog-bones to walk out. What happens is, as they rotate one of pins on the end of the dog-bone doesn't go in the slot, but rather rides up on the edge of the cup. I've seen this happen on a few cars... doesn't seem like could happen, but it does.

[Janders]

Can anyone tell me if the motor mounts are adjustable? (for different sized pinion gears) I can't tell from pictures and it is the determining factor on whether or not to get one... Thank you kindly

The motor mounts have 2 mounting positions for either 18 or 20t pinions. If you want adjustability you have to buy a separate adjustable motor mount, or hack up the gearbox.

[aknitroguy]

Thank you kindly Janders, That was what I needed to know... I was wondering if I could at least cut it to eccept different pinions.
Have a great day! :D

[hotrods10355]

I got my WD put back together with aluminum chassis and a-arms. I am running 2 19T motors with 20 tooth pinions. I am using the EVX with dual batteries. This thing is just bollistic. It is down right uncontolable. I am waiting on a set of e-maxx rims and tires to arrive. Once those are mounted hopefully it will be less violent. I am just getting so much spin from the stockers it is almost impossibe to drive.

[BdB390]

Dabait, ive figured out that the cause of these problems is that the plastic bearing that came with the kit are already worn out, crausing the u-joints that hold the shafts to woble and when turning it causes the tires to go farther then they should and thats when the driveshafts pop out. Again im using more Duratrax Evader parts for my TD. I put on the front shock mounts from the evader on my TD and it creates full use of the 4'' shocks, It has a small amount more ground clearance than stock which is good, but it keeps the whole suspension at a very resonable angle, and no problems have occurred. To fix the drive shaft problem I put o-rings in the u-joints on the diff side, this limits the movement of the driveshafts and has solved the problem for now.

[dabait]

Glad you were able to root-cause the issue! Did you replace the plastic bushing with bronze bushings or bearings?

[cummins driver]

What kind of run times are you guys seeing with a bone stock twin detonator, and a 2000mah or so battery? Will it wheelie stock? Is the truck pretty low geared stock? Would it spin all 4 tires if you held onto the back of it on dirt, and wouldnt let it move? I was thinking about getting something like this or a wild dagger. I wouldnt mind to try and trade my .15 t-maxx for one if i could. Thanks for any answers.

Eric

[BdB390]

Im gonna use bearings, but i sure as heck will be replacing them soon...man those things are sloppy. Oh and has anybody got the tires wet and drove the TD on cement??? Man what a blast!!!! 4wd drift for 25 ft or more...its a good time :D

[Spoon37]

What kind of run times are you guys seeing with a bone stock twin detonator, and a 2000mah or so battery? Will it wheelie stock? Is the truck pretty low geared stock? Would it spin all 4 tires if you held onto the back of it on dirt, and wouldnt let it move? I was thinking about getting something like this or a wild dagger. I wouldnt mind to try and trade my .15 t-maxx for one if i could. Thanks for any answers.

Eric

the truck is geared at around 18:1 which isnt all that low but for its weight and the size of tyres its pretty low geared. it will spin its wheels in loose dirt, but you must glu the tyres(despite what the manual says). it wont wheelie as per stock tho. unless you back up first and floor it - which doesnt do the dogbones much good. with more powerful motors it will wheelie. as for runtime I havent run a stocker for a while but I reckon a 2000mah pack might get you 20+mins of action.

a TD/dagger with a couple of good 17-19t motors should do all u want it to.....

I'm basing this on the Wild dagger - I have 4, and see no reason to buy a TD as it is identical except for the bodyshell - even the wheels are only molded in white, not silver/gray, but exactly the same pattern.

[tree-unit]

[QUOTE=Spoon37] ..... I reckon a 2000mah pack might get you 20+mins of action.


as a newbie to this thing, I wont be much help here but I agree bout the time estimate above - and slapping an ESC and bearings into the thing certainally makes a huge difference! My biggest bone with the truck now is that it cant track a straight line even if you drop it down a well... (tme/experience will help here, i'm sure)

are there any methods of tightening things up in the steering dept...? doesn't appear so. Are there any after-market hop-ups here?

All this said maybe the truck doesn't warrent this, and it is great fun as a back yard thrasher.

[cummins driver]

Thanks for the help guys. I am working on a trade right now for a brand new, built, but never ran wild dagger. I am thinkiing about making kind of a pulling truck out of it, because a guy i know has r/c pulls in the winter time. Would it pull very good in the stock configuration? What kind of aftermarket motors are good for this truck? It will mainly be for fun, but it would be neat to come in there with this little wild dagger(with some added weight), and kick butt :D , but i dont know if that would happen or not, but i would like to see. How fast in MPH is it stock, if anyone knows, and can it be geared down any? What pinion gears can i use, and what does it come with stock? I would like the 20 minute run times. I figured it would be worse, having 2 motors, but that sounds good to me.Thanks again.

Eric

[hotrods10355]

Has anyone put larger wheels and tires on the TD/WD? I am looking to increase the size of my truck. I have a longer chassis a wider stance and more than enough power, but it looks kinda goofy with the stock tires on it. Can anyone help me out?

[tree-unit]

I have glued the wheels and run it stock and, as has been said elsewhere, it does not wheelie unless you throw it into reverse first. I'm a bit peeved with the accelleration and there don't seem to be simple solutions re motor upgrades unless you have a Super Rooster Esc (??). As a pulling truck (define pulling?) I'm not sure if this one is a contender and as to larger wheels, ain't that just gonna kill your torque.
(BTW, I'm on the tip of Africa - Cape town, and not in a RC environment although sales of the TD here seem to be soaring, so hopefully support for this truck will increase :p)

[creep]

Has anyone put larger wheels and tires on the TD/WD? I am looking to increase the size of my truck. I have a longer chassis a wider stance and more than enough power, but it looks kinda goofy with the stock tires on it. Can anyone help me out?

I put Masher 2k's on my Dagger and it looks much better. Still the stock wheels but bigger, less "toy" looking tires.

[peterknudsen]

my truck keeps nose diving when jumping, even if i keep holding the trotle!
I´ve tried many things now---hit jump while accelerating, different jumps/sizes, adding weight in the rear!!!
When i take the same jump with my trx buggy, it dosen´t nose dive at all!
Will it help if i make the shocks/springs stiffer either in the front or the rear???

[guver]

What is the difference between a twin detonator and a wild dagger?

sorry I can't help , peter. you've tried everything I know to.

[dabait]

From what I understand, they are pretty much identical... Tamiya changed the name. I think the rim color is different, but beyond that, I don't know :confused:

[guver]

Which is newer?

[dabait]

Wild Dagger, I believe.

[tree-unit]

Here in Cape Town, only the Twin Detonator is available, with lots in the shops - the Wild Dagger pre dates it and I've only seen one demo model at the importers show-room, although both are featured in the tamiya 2004 catalogue. Again, the only changes seem to be cosmetic with the rims and body shell.

check out this site for additional useful stuff: http://wilddagger.brinkster.net/default.aspx

[guver]

thanks for the link, I'll probly get twin detonater.

[tree-unit]

replace the supplied servo-saver with same again and improved steering no-end! (wears quick) but could be better compared with mates e-maxx. The e-maxx steering system is far more solidly built. The truck ran well on concrete, I could see how it is decended from the touring car chassis. (the e-maxx was all over the place - that thing is made for the dirt :eek: )

any suggestions? are aluminium parts the only way and would this make a big difference?

About to upgrade ESC and motors - ordered the "rooster" and some mag-mayhems - guess I need to order the 20 tooth gear aswell... (sad thing is that when you add up the extras, the cost is similar to the e-maxx - well out here, anyway)

[Dagger Thrasher]

Hi guys, I'm from RC Dagger Web and other R/C forums.

I see that there are a lot of unanswered questions here and confused people, so I'll try to help you out.

First of all, the Twin Detonator is the 'new' Wild Dagger. The Dagger was released in 1999, and the Detonator has just been released to replace it. However, the only differences are that the Detonator has a different body, different colour wheels and the gearboxes come prebuilt (with bushings).

As for problems with jumping, the nosediving is a function of balance and speed. In order for the Dagger/Detonator to NOT nosedive, it has to be going fast enough. Because of it's 50/50 front/rear balancing, the tyres need to be spinning fast enough to create enough gyroscopic effect to keep the nose up...there fore to solve this entirely, you need to use some very fast mod motors...I use dual 14T's and they are blindingly fast on the ground (35mph) but stiull only just manage to keep the truck's nose up in a jump. Also, setting the suspension softer in the rear can help. A good tip to be able to fly your truck well is to keep the throttle nailed in the air, and release it just before landing to prevent breaking dogbones.

I don't know if you have ordered the Mag Mayhems, but even with the 20T pinion you won't really get any speed increase over stock I’m afraid. The Mags have a 22t 550 size armature, as opposed to a 540 size armature. As the 550 armature is bigger, more copper wire has to be used for the windings and this actually makes the Mags equivalent to a 30T 540 size motor, although with more torque.

Yeah, the stock servo saver is too soft and you are better off replacing it. If you want to eliminate bumpsteer (and so improve handling on rough ground), it is actually not too difficult to make a custom bellcrank system, like the Maxx's...

I hope that helps, guys.

If anyone has any questions regarding the Dagger/Detonator, motors, ESC's, whatever, if no-one else here knows I'll do my best to help...I like to think I know a fair old bit about Daggers and R/C in general...

[tree-unit]

thanks for the much needed advice. The Super Rooster is now on my work bench and oddly enough, the reverse rotation M.M arrived today with the other on back-order. Would you be kind enough to recommend a suitable 14T motor that I can order from Tower H. (only 12days to get here...) and cancel the B/order asap... :o btw, what are your thoughts of a 10cell setup aswell... ;)

[Dagger Thrasher]

No problem, I'm glad to be of help.

As for a suitable 14T motor...well I don't know which you can get from Tower, but here are some good ones:

-14T Orion Rush. These are a good budget motor with adjustable timing and BB's.
-14T Trinity Speed Gems Pro Serpentine. An excellent 'premium' modified motor, slightly better performance than the Rush motors.
-14T Otion 2R Pro BB. I have these motors and they are excellent. They perform just as well as the Speed Gems.

I would not reccomend running 10 cells when using any of these motors, they will get ruined. I run 7 cell packs, and performance is excellent without having to get the comms cut too often. Remember you will need to set up the motors' timing, too, since one motor will have to be set up to run in reverse. Just say if you don't know how to do this.

But anyway, be prepared for the speed, any of these motors will make your Dagger BALLISTIC! :eek:

[cheerwhiner]

what if i got an esc that was designed for one motor? will it work? i have a duratrax sport 20t forward only just sitting around. I'm debating b/w this truck and an emaxx with an emaxx costing a lot more............

[guver]

Your esc will work if you hook the motors up in series.

[guver]

Hey Dagger great to have you here, we need you. I like what all you said about so far. I have a question maybe you'll be able to answer, it's about the 550/540 thing.

I was wondering how to convert the ampdraw or turn limit from one to the other as related to esc capabilities.

In other words if I have a esc with 12 turn limit (540), then how many turn 550 will it handle? You get what I'm asking?

Or if I have a evx with a limit of 19 turns (550 I assume) then what 540 would it handle?

[guver]

"The Mags have a 22t 550 size armature, as opposed to a 540 size armature. As the 550 armature is bigger, more copper wire has to be used for the windings and this actually makes the Mags equivalent to a 30T 540 size motor, although with more torq"

This is the part I am questioning. I get what your saying in regards to rpm, but in regards to amp draw/esc capability then a 550 would always pull more amps right?

[guver]

Anyways, thanks for your help here, I don't have a detonator yet, but looks like a great deal . I plan on getting one soon. Hopefully will be somewhat inbetween my e-maxx and my stampede with the best of both.

[Dagger Thrasher]

Hi Guver, I'll try to help you out.

As regards to 550 motors...basically, the more copper wire a motor has on the armature, the LESS amps it draws and the slower the motor will be. However, as a trade-off the motor will have more torque. Therefore you can run a 15T 550 motor on a 20T limit ESC; the motor is only drawing the current of a 20T 540 motor, even though it seemingly has more turns of copper. So the ESC 'thinks' it's hooked up to a 20T 540 motor. I hope that makes sense...

So an EVX with a 19T 550 motor limit should be able to handle a 24T or 25T 540 motor.

So for example, a 19T 550 motor will always consume less current than a 19T 540, and will be slower too. But will have more torque. A general rule of thumb to work out what ESC to run a 550-size motor on, is add about a quarter of the total no. of turns in that motor on again, and that will roughly be the equivalent of a 540 with that number of turns in terms of RPM and current draw.

Phew! I hope that all makes sense. BTW, cheerwhiner...Guver is right, you can hook the motors up in series but each motor will only get half the voltage (3.6V) and so only be half as powerful. If you want the same level of power you will need an ESC which can handle BOTH of the motors you have, wired in parallel...put simply, if you are using the 27T stock motors you would need an ESC with at least a 15T limit, I'm afraid.

[guver]

I hear what your saying and understand, but no it doesn't make sense really. I understand the logic of more wire, but it still doesn't seem right. Maybe my pea-brain just can't get it.

Following that logic furthur then the bigger motor can continue to be hotter and hotter (faster) Let's use my evader with a sprint for example. It has a limit of 20 turns. From what you're saying I could not only go up in size to a 550 instead of a 540 , but also drop down in turns too? Let's go up another few steps to 600 or 700 motrs and then I could really install a hot 700 with the same sprint esc?

[guver]

I have to ponder this, don't really understand. I'm not saying you don't know, you've probly have tried it with experience and I haven't.

Also to back up what you say is the e-maxx guys are claiming to run some 600 , 700 , 750 and 755's on the stock evx with no trouble. I thought the evx was pretty close to it's limit with the 550's but it does back up what you are saying......hmmm....

[guver]

Here is nice concept, I use series motors on my e-maxx and the motors have to stay equal cuz they're hooked together, but if I used high voltage in a detonator with the two motors seperate then the axle with the least traction would get the most rpm......

The motors do drive each their own axle right? That would be pretty weird to see, it probly wouldn't work very well. The motors wouldn't stay equal rpm, unless the traction was good. The concept would really be like having a "diff" between them.

[tree-unit]

Hi Dagger Thrasher,
Pleased to say that my 14T serpentines arrived and now I have to mount them into tree-unit. I noticed in the Wild Dagger forum [page12] alongside, that Hanafuda wired his[?] up in a very straightforward manner, ie: esc to motor#1, to motor#2 (with the polarity reversed for the reverse motor) and the timing set to zero[?]. and hard-wired aswell - don't mind doing this as this should be the last incarnation for a while :D . Spoon37 had some useful soldering tips too. Also noticed that Trinity has a run-in proceedure. Seeing as I only own stick packs at this point, I am thinking of using x3 standard AA cells, ok? for the run-in.

Are there any other issues I should look out for :confused: timing ajustments? I believe that reverse is a problem. Should I set the super rooster up for forwards only?

shot for the help, dude! :cool:

[Spoon37]

tree-unit: you reverse the front motor....not the rear. otherwise hanafudu method is parralell wiring done simply, without making a Y lead which is the other accepted method.

guver you are correct IF wired in series. this is why most people with daggers or clods run motors in parralell, that way each motor gets its own supply of juice, and it is not shared between the two. when wired this way the dagger is very fast and powerful....it makes a good climber too.

Thrasher is right the TD has the same pattern of wheel, but molded in white(not gray like the dagger), pre built gearboxes to make the packaging smaller, and a new bodyshell with a chrome roll bar.

I do disagree on the mag mayhems, one of my 4 daggers runs mags and 20t pinions and is much faster than stock. not quite as fast as twin 17t's and no where near the pace of titans and an EVX, but still much faster than stock, and the runtime is not bad. twin 14t's in parralell will kill runtime.....albeit the power to weight ratio would be amazing.

the motor thing is pretty much right - most large motors are not very low in turns however. for example a good E-maxx motor upgrade would be multiplex permax 600's an 18t 600 size motor, this gives much better power and slightly higher RPM than the 23t 550 titans, yet seems to drain less current - at least the EVX stays cool. this is possible by using a more efficient motor than the titans - you dont get something for nothing. I wouldn recommend anything less than a rooster or equivalent to run large motors tho..... and mos are designed for high voltages, and run very slow on 7.2v(the multiplex motors make just 17,500rpm @ 7.2v but nearer 30,000rpm on 14.4v). electric motors are by no means simple, dont worry if you dont understand them 100% from the word go......

:D

[guver]

Somethin' was wrong with the site, I finally got my TD almost got it all together.

Looks good, I'm using a evx on it, stock motors for now.

Here's a funny, I'v been into rc for 3-4 years and never put together a kit and never painted a body.

[guver]

please someone respond to check my notifications. I haven't gotten any in a while.

I forgot to ask, is a std servo good enough just for starters and bashing around the yard?

[dabait]

please someone respond to check my notifications. I haven't gotten any in a while.

I forgot to ask, is a std servo good enough just for starters and bashing around the yard?

Seems like notifications were borken since the last maintenence to the boards. I wasn't getting anything for the threads I'm subscribed to ... until today.

[guver]

Hey yes, I just got it, thanks for posting.

Which servo is all using? or how much tork? I just put a standard one in, but can use a ts-70 too later.

[Phead128]

I have a Wild Dagger..... I am going to consult my uncle first.... I want SPPED and Torque.... but more Speed than Torque.

Should I go with Multiplex or Titans? Is Titan's speed like 'crazy' ? Can someone give me a description of speed and power of 23t 550 Titan motosr?

Thanks! I have a Wild Dagger....

Hello Dagger Thrasher!

[Dagger Thrasher]

Hey Phead!

If you are going to be running a 14.4V setup with an EVX, then the Multiplexes are better motors, they are just slightly faster and torquier. As for the kind of speed and power...probably around the 27-28mph mark, and with gobloads of torque. But I'll let Spoon elaborate on that, 'cos he actually runs a 14.4V setup. Come to think of it, have your tried out your Multiplexes in the Super Dagger, Spoon? I'd imagine it would be even more powerful than with Titans...

But anyway, if you want to just run a 'normal' 6 or 7 cell setup then a pair of 540 mod motors in the region of 15T-17T would be fine, my 14T's still give plenty of torque and are so fast it's silly!

Oh and as for servos, well I currently use my stock Acoms servo, yes it's still alive and gets the job done (though not very well...). Unless you want to go mad and get an expensive digital servo, the Hitec 625MG or 645MG servos are hard to beat for around £30 ($50ish). I had trouble with my 645 but I think I just got a bad one, so I sent it back, but I've been assured that they are usually great servos. The 645 has more torque than the 625, but at the expense of transit time.

[kurrz]

hi guys new here thinking about getting a T.D. but, if the only way to upgrade the stock speed control to an esc is to fork over 125 bucks it seems cheaper in the long run to get an e maxx and then you dont need to assemble or paint it also what is the aftermarket support like for the T.D. i really like the truck but have only seen it in TH catalogs im fairly new to RC any input on whats a better choice or theT.D. itself would be great thanks

[guver]

I just finally got mine together. stock servo seems just fine for now. I'm quite disappointed in the speed. It has to be the slowest vehicle I've driven.

As soon as the motors break in I'll jump up to 8 cells and then consider the 14 turn motors too should help.

[tree-unit]

[dt] Have you rotated the endbell 180 degrees etc on the front motor? Just say if I haven't mentioned this before.
- need to know this, I assumed neutral timing suited fwd + rev.

[dt] Rotating the endbell... if you want to run the motors with advanced timing (slight performance increase) then basically, set the advanced timing up on the rear motor as you would normally on a motor (do you know how to do this?)... For the motor in the front, you will need to rotate the endbell the same amount but the opposite way.

**can the truck be run in reverse for this set up??? ie with advanced timing.

[dt]... but if you get the comms on each motor cut every 30 runs or so (and get the brushes replaced too),
- is this a LHS job? 'cause they'll be grumpy with me buying off the net...

[dt] Getting the comms cut is an LHS job, really. It will probably cost a few $ for each motor, and a few $ for two pairs of new brushes. The LHS shouldn't be grumpy, you are still giving them your business... (btw; here it is 1xR = 6x$ or 1xR = 11xQuid - getting better but still :eek: )

I get run times under 8 mins with the 14T's!
[dt] I get close to that with my 2000 pack, I'd have thought you should be getting around 10 with that batt. Unfortunately that's the best runtime you will get with these motors.
- I suspect that with my enthusiasm and ignorance that I've "cooked" the batteries by leaving them on charge too long (ie: whilst at work) :mad:

But i must say that the reborn Tree-unit is really nippy now, completely integratable and LOADS of FUN :D :D
cheers guys ;)

[tree-unit]

[dt] Have you rotated the endbell 180 degrees etc on the front motor? Just say if I haven't mentioned this before.
- need to know this, I assumed neutral timing suited fwd + rev.

[dt] Rotating the endbell... if you want to run the motors with advanced timing (slight performance increase) then basically, set the advanced timing up on the rear motor as you would normally on a motor (do you know how to do this?)... For the motor in the front, you will need to rotate the endbell the same amount but the opposite way.

**can the truck be run in reverse for this set up??? ie with advanced timing.

[dt]... but if you get the comms on each motor cut every 30 runs or so (and get the brushes replaced too),
- is this a LHS job? 'cause they'll be grumpy with me buying off the net...

[dt] Getting the comms cut is an LHS job, really. It will probably cost a few $ for each motor, and a few $ for two pairs of new brushes. The LHS shouldn't be grumpy, you are still giving them your business... (btw; here it is 1xR = 6x$ or 1xR = 11xQuid - getting better but still :eek: )

I get run times under 8 mins with the 14T's!
[dt] I get close to that with my 2000 pack, I'd have thought you should be getting around 10 with that batt. Unfortunately that's the best runtime you will get with these motors.
- I suspect that with my enthusiasm and ignorance that I've "cooked" the batteries by leaving them on charge too long (ie: whilst at work) :mad:

But i must say that the reborn Tree-unit is really nippy now, completely integratable and LOADS of FUN :D :D
cheers guys ;)

[tree-unit]

[dt] Have you rotated the endbell 180 degrees etc on the front motor? Just say if I haven't mentioned this before.
- need to know this, I assumed neutral timing suited fwd + rev.

[dt] Rotating the endbell... if you want to run the motors with advanced timing (slight performance increase) then basically, set the advanced timing up on the rear motor as you would normally on a motor (do you know how to do this?)... For the motor in the front, you will need to rotate the endbell the same amount but the opposite way.

**can the truck be run in reverse for this set up??? ie with advanced timing.

[dt]... but if you get the comms on each motor cut every 30 runs or so (and get the brushes replaced too),
- is this a LHS job? 'cause they'll be grumpy with me buying off the net...

[dt] Getting the comms cut is an LHS job, really. It will probably cost a few $ for each motor, and a few $ for two pairs of new brushes. The LHS shouldn't be grumpy, you are still giving them your business... (btw; here it is 1xR = 6x$ or 1xR = 11xQuid - getting better but still :eek: )

I get run times under 8 mins with the 14T's!
[dt] I get close to that with my 2000 pack, I'd have thought you should be getting around 10 with that batt. Unfortunately that's the best runtime you will get with these motors.
- I suspect that with my enthusiasm and ignorance that I've "cooked" the batteries by leaving them on charge too long (ie: whilst at work) :mad:

But i must say that the reborn Tree-unit is really nippy now, completely integratable and LOADS of FUN :D :D
cheers guys ;)

[tree-unit]

a quiet chat with dagger thrasher: some pointers for the 14T motors.

[dt] Have you rotated the endbell 180 degrees etc on the front motor? Just say if I haven't mentioned this before.
- need to know this, I assumed neutral timing suited fwd + rev.

[dt] Rotating the endbell... if you want to run the motors with advanced timing (slight performance increase) then basically, set the advanced timing up on the rear motor as you would normally on a motor (do you know how to do this?)... For the motor in the front, you will need to rotate the endbell the same amount but the opposite way.

**can the truck be run in reverse for this set up??? ie with advanced timing.

[dt]... but if you get the comms on each motor cut every 30 runs or so (and get the brushes replaced too),
- is this a LHS job? 'cause they'll be grumpy with me buying off the net...

[dt] Getting the comms cut is an LHS job, really. It will probably cost a few $ for each motor, and a few $ for two pairs of new brushes. The LHS shouldn't be grumpy, you are still giving them your business... (btw; here it is 1xR = 6x$ or 1xR = 11xQuid - getting better but still :eek: )

I get run times under 8 mins with the 14T's!
[dt] I get close to that with my 2000 pack, I'd have thought you should be getting around 10 with that batt. Unfortunately that's the best runtime you will get with these motors.
- I suspect that with my enthusiasm and ignorance that I've "cooked" the batteries by leaving them on charge too long (ie: whilst at work) :mad:

But i must say that the reborn Tree-unit is really nippy now, completely integratable and LOADS of FUN :D :D
cheers guys ;)

[tree-unit]

oops, I rotated the end bell and now the motor runs in reverse. :( (curses and reaches for soldering iron...)
Do this step before checking and connecting wiring ;)

[guver]

looks like you rotated end-bell 4 times haha just kidding about your posts.

I just went to 8 cells in mine, really made a good difference. After 3-4 runs I went up to 11 cells and now have yet to test it out. Only indoors.

I am getting very long runtime, the truck is way undergeared. 11 cells may give me almost double the speed of the stock 6 cells and half the runtime.

[Dagger Thrasher]

:eek: Whoa, wait a minute. What motors and ESC are you running? If they are the stock ones or any 540 modified motors, DO NOT try and run them on 11 cells; you will wreck the motors within a few runs, that is far to much voltage. 8 cells is about the limit. On 11 cells the comms will be toast in 10 runs max, probably less, I'm afraid... :(

[guver]

They are the stock motors , any 27 turn motor with 0 timing is fine on that voltage, like the titans. They should be good to 12 voltsd or so, but I know I'm pushing it.

I like testing the limits,. If not how do you know where the limit is?

[u4ia]

Hi all

I just join this forum and interest with the discussion here.

I wonder if you guys know if I can replace the drive shafts with the universal or CVD ones. Any suggestion that might fit the front drive of Twin Detonator ?

I'm curious if I can use this TAMIYA 53028 part. It's an old Thundershot Univ.

Rgds

[creep]

GPM makes universals for the Wild Dagger/Twin Detonator.
http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/catalog2.cgi?got=no&cat=236&car_id=71&man=all

[guver]

Just got about 3-4 runs on 11 cells, it almost keep up with the e-maxx. Only thing now is the back bounces alot.....time for oil filled shocks. I'll try them on the rear.

This truck went from dissapointing to almost my favorite

[guver]

Hey Dagger, What happened to that dagger website?

[u4ia]

GPM makes universals for the Wild Dagger/Twin Detonator.
http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/catalog2.cgi?got=no&cat=236&car_id=71&man=all

Thanks creep but they're out of stock. Beside I have bad experience with GPM.
They have poor quality. I've bought titanium axle but it bend. It's not the case with the orig TAMIYA. Kose, Tozai, Tobee is OK but not HongKong / Taiwan products. Beside I need the orig. TAMIYA product 'cause the race forbid us to use other / outside product.

Any suggestion ?

Rgds,

[Dagger Thrasher]

I wouldn't recommend the GPM uni's...they tend to snap VERY easily.

The Thundershot uni's will fit, but apart from that you are stuck with dogbones I'm afraid. This is unless you decide to outfit your Dag with longer suspension (like the R2-C2 (www.r2-c2.com) extended aluminium suspension kit or use Duratrax Maximum MT suspension which fits with a bit of modding), in which case MIP RS4 MT CVD's will fit.

As for R/C Dagger Web.com? Don't worry that's still going strong, you can get to the forum board here (http://p080.ezboard.com/brcdaggerweb). The home page is down at the moment.

[guver]

Thanks, doing lots of research. (reading)

[kurrz]

hey guys just checked out R2-C2 quick question if i use the alum. shock towers can i use 4 inch shocks with no mods and could you suggest some reasonably priced shocks

[buckrogers519]

hey guys just checked out R2-C2 quick question if i use the alum. shock towers can i use 4 inch shocks with no mods and could you suggest some reasonably priced shocks

As a matter of fact kurzz, our shock towers are meant for 4" shocks...as for some reasonably priced shocks...well that depend on you definition of reasonable.

Regards,
Buck
buck@r2-c2.com
http://www.r2-c2

(Hey there DT!)

[guver]

I'm selling the td. It will have 8 cells and a streak esc.
How much should I ask for it. RTR?

[kurrz]

hey anybody out there guver a streak esc will run dual motors? if so please let me know thanks

[guver]

It should do 1 12 turn or 2 stock motors (27 turn)

[kurrz]

how fast is a TD with to 27 turn motors? thanks for the reply i finally finished mine last night waited two weeks for the radio to come but now theres snow on the ground so i just ran it in the basement one more question on the drivers side front one of the dogbones keeeps coming out so i put a small zip tie in the drive up anyways that dogbone is loose any suggestions thanks again

[guver]

I think it is very slow, but indoors may seem fast (probly too fast) I would guess about 10 mph or more.

On the dogbone, I just got done building my second td and I remembered that I installed an extra o-ring on the outsidfe of the bone (just like on the inside)It is possible you forgot the oring?

I've ran my first truck nearly double speed as stock and never lost a dogbone, just keep loosening the wheel nuts. I can't seem to keep them tight.

[kurrz]

thanks ill check out the oring thing i read somewhere when you wire motors in series the turns of the motors become additive ex: 12t+12t=24t is this true? if so a good esc would cost half as much as a super rooster and if i use 2 12t would that make good power and could i get decent run times with a good pack? thanks again

[kurrz]

also on the wheel nuts maybe some weak thread locker

[guver]

Yes, that is right about the motors. They will also have about half the power.

I've been using white out on the nuts, I probly will go to thread lock soon.

I had more fun with my td than I've had in a long time, my whole front yard was solid ice from the freezing rain. I could do full throttle power slides, spin-outs, donuts . I can see why people enjoy drifting, that's basically what was going on.....

I could get the truck to slide exactly straight side ways for over 30 feet.

[kurrz]

why would the motors only have half power also what set up do you use the power sliding sounds awesome glad to see im not the only one into this truck still havent been able to go out side we got three or four more inches last night

[guver]

When motors are wired in series, they are getting half the voltage. They pull far less amps. Not sure if it is exactly half though on the amps.

we got a few more inches too. stuck inside ...again.

[kurrz]

oh ok i just get the super rooster then and wire the motors in parallel it sucks being stuck inside

[guver]

I just finished my td. I did something pretty weird to help break in the motors. I always hook motors in series to break them in. When doing this on the td it acts like a center diff. Allowing the rears or fronts to spin faster or slower. Prety weird on the bench with the wheels off the ground.

[kurrz]

sounds weird finally the snow melted enough to get a few runs in today at first i thiught i broke something the truck had a hard time taking off and it was making a spinning? noise then i realized the rims were spinning in the tires so i glued them its a pretty torquey truck cant wait to upgrade

[shinna202]

i have TD it is pretty much stock excapt for the coustom chassic
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/shinna202/td4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/shinna202/td7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/shinna202/td1.jpg
it is nice and im on a project to make it cralwe

[kurrz]

looks cool did you build the chassis if so nice job

[shinna202]

thanks
i bulit it

[kurrz]

cool whats your set up esc radio and so on where does the battery go? also like the paint job

[shinna202]

well the ESC i cant remeber and in between the electronics but you cant see them because the pics are taken to low in order to see you have to look top to bottom

[guver]

I just noticed I have 2 bent dogbones in front. Are there any slightly heavier duty ones?

I've never had them pop out.

[DanWilliams]

Hey guys,

has anyone tried using the TL01 hop-up and aluminium after market parts on a detonator?

Are there other types of parts that can be used on the Det?

[kurrz]

just ordered a super rooster and a set of team orion 15x2 adjustable timing motors should be putting it together this weekend also has anybodt used any aluminum stuff from r2-c2.com looks nice but is it rugged and high quality? any feedback appreciated

[Wild trial]

just ordered a super rooster and a set of team orion 15x2 adjustable timing motors should be putting it together this weekend also has anybodt used any aluminum stuff from r2-c2.com looks nice but is it rugged and high quality? any feedback appreciated



Just ordered socktowers for my car from r2-c2, have'nt got any yet.
Live in Norway so thats the reason.....
______________
The Norwegian Wild-Trail

[kurrz]

well turns out the motors i got dont have adjustable timing so could i just reverse the positive and negative wires on the front motor and it would then turn in the right direction also will this hurt the motor or esc i am going to wire the motors in parallel thanks

[guver]

It will reverse rotation, buut the timing will go negative (if it's 0 that's good) If it has timing then it is not good.

[guver]

I just put 2 14 tuirns in mine, and for breakin I wired in series. It's kinda cool like haveing a center diff. Front end burn outs and will go around a corner pretty good too.

[kurrz]

how could i find out what the timing is and could you reccomend some motors for it i may just buy some different motors i got these from tower on sale for 14 bucks a piece they are team orion rush motors

[guver]

orion rush do have adjustable timing, the ones I have do.

[kurrz]

the insrtuctions say they have adjustable timing, is it set at 0 degrees if not how do you set it at 0 degrees thanks

[guver]

I can't remember where it's set. loosen the 2 screws that hold the endbell on and twist it until it lines a mark up with the 0 (or the thick center line) on the tag.

Now having said that, I remember my rush had the sticker tag in the wrong spot so the screws that hold the endbell on should be lined up with the notch in the can for the magnets and also the centerline of the 4 mounting (motor) screws.

If you do a search for timing, motor there'll be a pic on this website.

[kurrz]

thanks alot guver hoping to get the truck together this weekend saw you on the mini quake page its a pretty cool little truck how do you like yours?

[guver]

It's cool, but I got it for indoors and found out it's a little too fast and big for the house. Only complaint is the runtime.

I really can't wait to get my "big" truck going out side. Haven't yet decided between the perfex or the new hv novak yet.

I have 1 detonator I really like with stock motors and 11 cells, It's peerfect for runtime and speed. I find that I run it often. My other td has the 14 turn motors and 6-8 cells. I haven't had a chance to run it either. too snowy.

[guver]

The stock tires are pretty good in snow. The other one has stampede tires on it and works too well. I put oil filled shocks on the rear cuz it was quite bouncy.

[kurrz]

yeah i think the motors are set to 0 degrees i lined the notch in the can up with the end bell screw and it looked real close to the middle line of the sticker i noticed there were nine lines on the sticker i assume the middle is 0 and each line represents 4 degrees of timing also once i got it all hooked up with the motors in parallel the front motor spun backwards so i reversed the + and - thats ok right? also the mini quake gets long run times with some nimh packs i got some from cbp.com for 12.60 a piece and they are 1150 mah but easily take 1200 but they make that little truck crazy fast with 25 + minute run times

[kurrz]

its snowy here too so i only ran my td in the basement the super rooster has a good feel how do you run 11 cells in your td also do you run in series or parallel?

[kurrz]

one more question do you have to install the three capacitors that came with the super rooster on each motor? how important is it thanks

[guver]

Ha I got ya on the mini-q, I run my td with a 8 cell batt in the normal spot and then 3 cells inbetween the frame rails. I use a evx esc. The stock motors are wired in parallel.

[guver]

Oh the caps are to prevent radio glitching. They should be on, (I almost never use them) I run by myself and on my own property usually and don't get any glitching at all.

[kurrz]

oh ok i do pretty much the same and the rush motors came with caps installed i have had no problems yet

[kurrz]

ive got some 12 gauge wire from radio shack with no amperage rating this should be fine to use to hook up motors and esc in a more permanent fashion than i have right now right?

[guver]

Yes 12 guage is fine.

[kurrz]

thanks guver do you know if there is a more active thread for this truck or the wild dagger anywhere thanks

[guver]

this is the only one I klnow of.

http://p080.ezboard.com/brcdaggerweb

[hawkeye07]

Hey guys, as many of you may know, "Radio Control Dagger Web" is back in business and online, we now have an awesome new site and community forum. The site is centered around modifying your Wild Dagger, Twin Detonator, and your Tamiya favorites! Please check us out at http://www.rcdaggerweb.com .

[kurrz]

thanks for the update

[kurrz]

hey anybody out there ive got a quick question finally ran the TD outside last weekend with the super rooster and team orion 15x2 motors truck doesnt seem very fast maybe 18 to 20 at most mph any tips motors are wired in parallel thanks

[guver]

The truck is quite slow, I would bet your speed estimate is right on. Only suggestion I have is either gear up or increase cell count. I think there's only one chance to gear up maybe a 20 tooth. and for 15 turn motors probably 8 cells is absolute max.

ps I have a 14 turn TD, but it's been too wet to try it out....... still running my 11 cell TD though It is great fun. I think it goes about the same speed as yours.

[szan]

Hi,

Do someone have seen this carbon chassis on Ebay ?
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7307547583&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

What do you think of it ?

Sylvain

[guver]

That looks pretty trick.. I just got done with my latest set-up. My last set-up was stock motors and 11 cells.

This set-up is about the same speeed it seems, It is a pair of 550 motors with stock pinions and 10 cells. whoowee the esc and motors are very cool.

[guver]

This size truck seems to be very nice balance between a single motor truck and an e-maxx. Where the e-maxx needs 14-18 cells to really move it nicely and a smaller truck cannot handle much over 8 cells. This truck is perfect with 10 cells.

[kurrz]

Hey Guver how do you run a 10 cell in the chassis? Thanks

[guver]

I had a 8 cell across with 3 cells tucked inbetween the rear frame rails. There's a nice space there.

I now use a 7 cell premade pack with the stock battery clamps ( I drilled the holes further out) using the stock clips and the 3 cells are still in between the frame rails.

I think for this truck 8-11 cells is very nice although it looks like 12 woukld fit kinda nicely on top of each other the weight will be quite heavy.

[kurrz]

Hey Guver quick question i cant seem to get brakes on my super rooster, it goes from forward directly to reverse and i only find one set up method in the instructions any advice. Thanks

[guver]

No idea never used one. Anyone else have a super rooster? can help out?

[Daft Bat]

i just bought a detonator off ebay, its new in box blah blah blah, what i want to do is put clod wheels on it, will i have to change anything in the drive lines, i read in the dagger forum that dogbones should be/neded to be swaped out for universals or something is it the same on the detonator?if so, does anyone have part numbers for these universals. thanks in advance for any help
-The Bat

[kurrz]

Yeah anything is universal between the trucks i dont know if you need to change the dogbones though not a bad idea.

[mitch001]

I got my detonator yesterday and got it all together today useing the mech. speed control and the radio gear from the evader. This thing has awesome off-road ability, and it rips pretty good for being a stocker, I was very impressed with it. It says in the manual not to glue the tires, but I was gonna put foams in them and glue them, will that trash the tranny and the motor?? I know itll be more fun.....

Hi i am looking at either getting the twin detanator or the evader st and since you you i have now owned both of them i was wondering if you could please tell me what one you find the best as far as speed, jumping etc. Just which one is overall best on a bmx track.
Thanks for your help

[guver]

I have them both also and the evader is almost twice as fast in stock form, probably jumps better too. For rough terrain bashing I would pick the td for sure.

[Dagger Thrasher]

Definitely glue the tyres...the TD's transmission is rock-solid, gluing the tyres won't do any harm at all...you'll just get much better drive.

[Grumpy134]

Im new to these forums so plese try not to "flame' on me too much. Ive built my TD with MANY hop-ups (ie InetRC, GPM, R2C2...ect...ect...ect.) I would like to know if there is a way to "lock-up" the gear boxes to run full posi? Also, Im using Trinity Monster Horsepower 27turn motors. Are these, In your opinion exceptable? I dont run it on too rough of terrain, but would like other opinions on it.
I have been out of the hobby for about 10years. My last RC was the USA1 Kyosho Monster Truck. I know alot has changed, And figured this was the place to ask.

[Dagger Thrasher]

What kind of upgrades have you got on there? I'm intruiged. ;)

There are ways to lock the diffs. The best method is to basically fill the diff with hot glue (y'know, out of a glue-gun type stuff). This locks up nicely, but means you can always take it out if you need. I'd only lock the rear diff tho...if you lock the front, then you'll lose any kind of handling and steering reponse will be bad.

As for those motors...well, on their own they would be fine (though not my choice), but run in the TD, beucase of the twin motor setup they make problems. This is because of the fixed 24 degrees timing on them. Because the motor in the front spins in reverse, the timing causes it to spin slower than the motor in the rear...and this puts strain on the drivetrain and can make the truck handle strangely, as well as overheat the motors.

I'd suggest buying a pair of nice 14T or 15T modifieds and adjust the timing accordingly if you are looking for speed, or maybe go for an EVX and Titans setup (tho you'd really need at least an aftermarket twin batt chassis for this). What do you want your truck to become?

[Grumpy134]

Kewl......Will have to try that on the gearbox.
Im not really looking to modify this to the point of changing the chassis. If that were the case, I dont think I would have bought a Tamiya. Dont get me wrong, I LOVE'EM. I actually started on a Tamiya Grasshopper, then the Monster Beetle. And I ended with the Kyosho USA1 monster Truck. I was getting married and had to part with some of my "toys".

What Id like are a few more up-grades then I already have.
Would like to find some type of front/rear skid plates,instead of these "cheezy" looking "cow-catcher" type bumpers. Also would like to replace the stock upper A-Frames (camber?). Stainlesss universal joints are next. And last, a decent ESC. Something to where I dont have to run dual batteries. I would, but changing the chassis is not something I want to do. Some new tires and rims would be a plus.

I would like to keep it looking "SWEET" but not at the expense of my marrage :D
Im gonna try to post 4 pics of it here. Dont know if its going to work...but Im gonna give it a shot.
If it works,GREAT. Ill explain a little about them.

First off, This was my first paint job. Too much pressure on the brush, got a lil toooo much over-spray. The trim around the windows SUC too.(Got a new body - ordered Atomix Ford 350). I had to mount my shocks different on the left and right front. Due to the typical rubbing of the tie rods. I know longer dogbones would help with a few modificatins. But I didnt know this before I bought these from InetRC. Most of the suspension is from InetRC. The Towers are R2C2 and the shocks are HB Aluminum 4" Oil damper. GPM bearings and Tamiya Aluminum heat sinks (which are not in the photos,I got them today as a matter o fact). And of course my Trinity motors.

I must say thanks for the help Dagger. Never knew much about what type of motor to use. Seen "Monster Horsepower" and ASS-umed this was ment for a Monster Truck.Was worried about getting some laughter at my post. As I said, Ive been outta this hobby for some time now. After 10-12 years.....Im glad I still have a love for this.
Having a 6 year old son helps too ;)


http://www.beer-pub.com/images/TD4.jpg
http://www.beer-pub.com/images/TD1.jpg
http://www.beer-pub.com/images/TD2.jpg
http://www.beer-pub.com/images/TD3.jpg

[guver]

very nice truck , grumpy

I just put a pair of permax 600 motors in my TD . I dropped 1 cell and seems about as fast as the stock motors, but with more tork.

[guver]

Now I lost a rear dogbone. Then the last run I see both rears are bent. My bones couldn't fall out, but I see that they are bending and then come out. I'm thinking of trying a savage front center bone.

Any ideas on a replacement drive axle/ dogbone? slightly stronger would be great. thanks

[Grumpy134]

Thanks guver :D

Hey Dagger, What ya think about these:
AYK Magnum 360 LB motors.
Trinity Monster Maxx 17 turn 550 motors

I have a chance at either one, my question would be which?

[mitch001]

I have them both also and the evader is almost twice as fast in stock form, probably jumps better too. For rough terrain bashing I would pick the td for sure.

Sorry, i was meaning to say since you have them both i havn't own any of them yet. So what one would you recommend i buy for bmx track racing? and i have had a look at the evader and the chassis and steering arms etc seem to be easily broken?

[Dagger Thrasher]

Grumpy, what do you want from the truck? Lots of torque, or lots of speed? Then I'll be able to help you more. ;)

[Dagger Thrasher]

Nice TD by the way! :)

[Grumpy134]

I guess it would have to be speed.
But if you have the time, Could you explain abit on what is better for speed as to what is better for torque? And if there is a motor that combines both speed with torque?

[guver]

Sorry, i was meaning to say since you have them both i havn't own any of them yet. So what one would you recommend i buy for bmx track racing? and i have had a look at the evader and the chassis and steering arms etc seem to be easily broken?

Not familiar with bmx track, but for a rc track the evader is best. For other off roading like rough ground the td would be best. The td is definatly more rugged. The evader is more for high speed.

[WDGuy]

the evader is not even close to being the best for the rc track, if you want something for the track look at the team associated RC10T4, or the losi xxx-t.

[kurrz]

Hey can anyone help me with my super rooster i cant get the brakes to work. Thanks

[kurrz]

BTW good to see you back Dagger Thrasher

[Dagger Thrasher]

Hey guys.
Thanks Kurrz!

Grumpy, with a single battery setup, you have a few options. If you want out-and-out torque, then the Kyosho Magnetic Mayhems rock. They are 22T, 550-size motors which are slightly faster than stock, but have massive amounts of torque. Unfortunately they aren't rebuildable, although you can replace the brushes. They also come with 15 degrees fixed timing..but you can get both normal and reverse rotation versions, so that wouldn't be a problem. The reverse rotation version would go in the front gearbox.

Then there are the modified motors. I run a pair of 14T Orion Orbital 2R Pro BB motors, and they are great. For some impressive speed I'd definitely recommend these. With 7 cells, my Dag will hit 28, almost 30mph with these motors. However, you won't get anywhere near as much torque with such relatively low-turned motors...although there is still plenty. Another downside is that you will have to replace the brushes/rebuild the motors every 20-30 runs, including getting the comms cut. If you went for a pair of nice 17T motors, maybe some Trinity Speed Gems Extremes, then you'd get less wear than this, slightly less speed too, but a little more torque.
If you want to go this route, just say, becuase I'll have to explain how to set the motors' timing up.

And of course there is the EVX and Titans setup. This requires twin batteries. However with twin 6-cell packs, you can expect 25-30mph and impressive torque. You could even go all the way and use twin 7-cell packs...then you're looking at over 30mph and dogbone-busting power! This is also low maintainence (well the motors are, but replacing the dogbones isn't, lol!)

Lastly, LRP do motors called their 'LRP Big Block Special' motors. These are designed to run on 6-8 cells but are 12T 550-sze motors...they provide the speed of a 15T modified, but much more torque. They're also fully rebuildable...but good luck finding them;they are difficult to find.

When the Dagger/Detonator is properly setup and modified, it can be a mean force on the track. However, for smooth groomed track racing, an ST is always going to be better. An Evader will be much quicker and agile. But when it comes to the real rough stuff, the Dagger/Detonator is awesome! Where the Evader will keep getting stuck, the TD will plow right through with ease. Oh, did you get my PM, Grumpy?

And Kurrz, for your SR problem. What exactly happens when you try to brake? Hopefully I'll be able to help you then.

I hope that helps, guys.:)

[Dagger Thrasher]

Sorry, didn't mean to post. My internet was messing around. :(

[Dagger Thrasher]

Sorry, didn't mean to post.

[Dagger Thrasher]

Sorry, didn't mean to post.

[kurrz]

Well it goes directly from forward to reverse or reverse to forward no braking at all. Thanks in advance

[Daft Bat]

YAYYYY :D my detonator is here :D

[Grumpy134]

Glad to hear it Bat......You wont be dissapointed :D
Hey Thrasher,
I, once again have the chance to grab either of these 2 motors:
Trinity SpeedGem Pro Amber 17T Double Motor
Trinity Monster Maxx 17 turn 550 motor

In your opinoin, Which would suit my needs?

As for the AYK Magnum 360 LB motors, I missed out on the bid :mad:

[Dagger Thrasher]

Go for the Trinitry Speed Gem. The Monster Maxx motors are designed to be run at 14.4V (12 cells) and will give terrible performance at a lower voltage. In fact, even at 14.4V performance is said to be poor (and they absolutely EAT brushes!).
The Sped Gem will give you a nice increase in speed and you won't lose much torque. Just make sure you get the motor rebuilt every 30 or so runs and you'll be fine. ;)

[Grumpy134]

BIG THANKS Thrasher :D
The Monster Maxx were on ebay and was ending tommorrow. The Speed Gems I found can be bought at any time. I must say, I was leaning towards the Speed Gem. But you just "pushed" me over the edge. Now I just have to sell my Monster Horsepower motors first. Seeing as though Im in no hurry, those Gems will always be there. ;)

[Dagger Thrasher]

No prob, I'm glad to be of help. Once you get the Gems though, be sure to set up the timing right...for the front motor, you'll need to flip the endbell around by 180 degrees, and then set the timing to how much you want (I'd suggest around 12 degrees. For the rear motor, just adjust the timing as you usually would. On 7 cells, you'll be looking at about 25mph with nice torque. :)

Oh, kurrz, your SR problem! I'm really sorry, I forgot to help you in my last post. First of all, try reprogramming it...that might solve the problem right away. It's a strange one though, I've never heard of someone's brakes not working on a Super Rooster before. Seeing as reverse is working fine, I have a feeling there might be a problem with the braking circuitry, but I could be wrong. It might be worth posting about your problem in the Electronics forum...sorry I couldn't help more. :(

[Grumpy134]

OUCH......7Cells :(
Im using Power Maxx 2400mAH - 6Cell NiCad's

[Daft Bat]

on hold till payday :( .... yup, i got it off ebay, i was hoping the servos could be dropped into the completed vehicle like on my king blackfoot but i guess not... so it wont be ready to go for a week

[Daft Bat]

:D up and running i gutted my king for the radio :P just couldnt wait

[TwinOrion]

Hi Folks

I've been reading this theard for a couple of hours and thanks for all the good advise. I'm running a TD with the same engine as Dagger (Team Orion Orbital Pro BB 14T with 7 cells) and I'm looking for some serious speed while racing on BMX track. What about going bellow 14T like 12 or even 10 ? I've a Novak Super Duty ESC and this guy can handle 10T engine. What do you think ? About 8 cells ?

[guver]

The problem is that with the decrease in the turn count the voltage limit is also decreaesd (or the life of the motor) I use higher cell counts, like 8 cells with 20 turn motors or 11-16 cells with 27 turn motors. With a 10-12 turn motor you are probably at the limit for voltage.

I say try it though and let us know how it holds up in the twin motor.....

[guver]

I been having lots of fun w/ my TD. keep bending rear bones though. I think if they start out nice and strait they hold up well. but if they are slight bent then they just get worse very quick and b-4 I know it they are gone......I'm working on a rerplacement.

[TwinOrion]

Thanks for your advise, so ultimatly I should stick with my 7-cells. Just before I order two Team Orion Formula Pro BB 12T any other proposition ?

[guver]

I think 7 max fit in chassis nicely if you drill 2 more holes in the battery caps. for 12 turn motors 7 cells is probably the max also.

[guver]

Hi dagger and detonator fans. Just to let you know, I haven't found any replacement bones yet, but did widen the front - end about 3/4 inch and used these bones from a dtx odst. DTXC9601 They are the same wimpy size though. I used rear arms and evader turnbuckles and ball - ends. Now I have turnbuckles to adjust toe and camber.

I'll see how long the bones last.

[kurrz]

Hi guys let me start by saying man this truck is tough, next how can i make it wider and any shock suggestions? ps I got the reverse to work. Thanks

[guver]

I will be working on the same thing (making it wider) as I have bent/lost a dogbone almost every run lately. Even my new wide ones.

[guver]

I use front evbx shocks.

[Grumpy134]

Hey Dagger, I finally got the Trinity Speed Pro Gem Amber 17T doubles. In your last post you mentioned about "turning the endbell"...Please elaborate. Also, If you could, explain the timing setting that Ill need to do.

[kurrz]

Hey Guver are the evbx shocks the same as the evst i am going to part mine out because it breaks constantly just like my mini quake. For example i jumped my evader an st remember, made to race and jump within 2 jumps something broke and the second jump less than 2 feet of air! The TD on the other hand tons of jumps, flips, tumbles and 4 feet of air with stock shocks nothing broken "knock on wood" I love this truck. Thanks

[guver]

Hmm, that's just the opposite my experience. My td keeps bending dogbones and my evader holds up well.... No the shocks are not the same. The evbx front shocks are shorter.

[oggydog]

I need to talk to my nephew and see if he still has his wild dagger and might try to mount 2 titans in it with my left over evx for my e-maxx can you fit 2 batteries in it.

[guver]

with modified chassis slightly you can. Put one on top of the other.

[mitch001]

hi guys, im new to the forum, i just purchased a twin detonator today and have begun to build it

[Grumpy134]

You wont be dissappointed :D
If you had the chance to see the pics on the previous page, Youll see that I myself have a "few" upgrades". With the minimal amout of $$ spent. With my new additions of Trinity Speed PRO Gem motors (17T Double).....
....THIS IS NOW ONE BAD-ASS Bashin truck.
Not to take away ANYTHING from people like Dagger, who has such a custom and radical Dagger/Detonator...Its beyond what I can spend. But for what I have spent.........WOWZERS.......This is one AWESOME truck. :D

[mitch001]

Yeah your truck looks very mean, plenty of anodized aluminium parts by the looks of it, so what are the best upgrades as far as value for money goes? (hop ups that increase speed esc, bearings..?) Im only 14 and I already spend a great deal of my money on my gas powered on road car so my budget isn't that big, thanks for your help

[Grumpy134]

Ill give you my opinion, and/or the upgrades I use.
My suspension is mostly all InetRC (www.inetrc.com)
Total cost for my CNC cut aluminum was around 117.00 w/o shipping
My shock towers are from R2C2 (www.r2-c2.com) Cost - 30.00
Shocks(4) are HB 4" Damper - 41.00 (www.lightninghobby.com)
GPM Bearings - 16.00 (Ebay)
Trinity Speed PRO Gem Amber 17T Double - 30.00 X2 (www.towerhobbies.com)
Tamiya Heat Sinks - 18.00 (www.towerhobbies.com)
All the other changes are just for looks. (ie- body,rims,decals)

I just changed the body to an ATOMIX Ford F350. Black with silver/white "rips". Its a pre-painted body, Due to the fact I need more practice painting these. Not used to painting on the INSIDE of the bodies.

I locked up my rear diff for more extreme tork. With the motors I just installed......I get alot of speed with an increase in tork. I got a little of both worlds with these motors....I love'em. I got Speed mixed in with a little off-road funage.

I know this might seem like alot of $$, But compared to people like Dagger, I spent what he would coinsider...."A drop in the bucket". NO INSULT intended Dagger :D
Just a lil jealousy is all :o

[guver]

It seems alot to me, that's more than I have in my whole truck......wow

[mitch001]

Thanks for that. Do you run the Tamiya radio gear as recommended or did you just buy an aftermarket one from your hobby store? i just completed my truck but don't have the money for the radio gear yet

[kurrz]

I only have a little over 300 in mine and another 300 to go but, its one of my favorite trucks. Can't wait to do the suspension mods I'm going to get the shock towers from r2c2 and I havent decided on shocks yet. Anyhow does anyone know if you can buy Tamiya screw kits I need some of the ones tjat are like a screw with a built in bushing like what is used to attach the upper suspension arm. Thanks

[kurrz]

Also I run Hitec aggressor AM gear in this truck works great never had a glitch and it's only 50 bucks.

[Grumpy134]

I use Futaba MS T2PH (2 Channel)controller. VERY standard. Nothing special. Total cost was about 50.00 @ my nieghborhood hobby store

[guver]

I use a 2pl am radio. futaba cheap computer radio.

[mitch001]

Thanks guys, im going to take the radio gear out of my gas car so i can get the beast going and if i like it enough ill sell my gas car so i can hop it up as much as possible

[mitch001]

Just got my twin detonator going. I'm not very impressed by the speed of it although it was only going for 30 seconds until it slowed down heaps and lost control on a full battery pack. Quite weird really.

[guver]

Yes, it is quite slow.

[kurrz]

Until a good esc and a pair of 15t motors! Then it's kind of fast but, wicked fun.:D

[mitch001]

yes i suppose I was a bit harsh with my truck still being 100% stock and i only drove it for 30 seconds before the battery packed up. Do you have to run one or two escs because it is twin engined? I'll try and post a couple of pics soon, i painted mine lime green it looks quite cool.

[Grumpy134]

Until a good esc and a pair of 15t motors! Then it's kind of fast but, wicked fun.:D

Roger That!!!!!
I run a pair of 17T Trinity GEMS (Dagger's advice)............Along with lockin-up my rear diff....
....TALK ABOUT SOME WICKED FUN :D

I think a NOVAK Super Roster ESC will do just fine for a dual motor set-up.

[mitch001]

Here she is my twin detonator looking nice in lime green. Its the first body i have done and am quite proud of the result. What do you guys think of the colour?

[mitch001]

1 more pic, you can see the shell better in this one

[guver]

very nice...

[mitch001]

very nice...
Cheers

[Grumpy134]

Different......But VERY NICE!!!!!!!. :D
Almost forgot what it looked like....originally. Are you leaving the lights OFF the roll bar?

[Dagger Thrasher]

Lookin' good man. The Dagger is slow in stock form because it's got a relatively high gear ratio (18:1 final drive ratio stock). This gives it a ton of torque but not much speed. You only need to run one batt pack and ESC, but the battery has to be a good quality battery...cheapo packs can't take the amp-pull. As for ESCs, something like a Novak Super Rooster, (or even better) Super Duty XR would be great for the job...both are pretty versatile, tho the XR will allow you to run a 12-cell Titan motor setup as well as normal mod motors.:-)

[mitch001]

Different......But VERY NICE!!!!!!!. :D
Almost forgot what it looked like....originally. Are you leaving the lights OFF the roll bar?
Thanks, yeah I am leaving the lights off I prefer the look without them plus they are the first thing that will break if the truck rolls, i might put them on later on though to change the look a bit.

[mitch001]

Lookin' good man. The Dagger is slow in stock form because it's go