Buying another BL system for my T3/T4, need help? everyone with a BL truck come in:)

[alpinesky1]

Ok guys rite now i have a decked out FT T3 truck with a Aveox RC7/ L160RC system....

Ok i want another BL system and need help, rite now the Aveox system with my HV3000 batteries geared 20/78, gets about 12mins. of runtime and has the speed of a 13/14 trun brushed motor (the RC7 is spose to have 4250rpm per volt, but mine had a dyno tag saying 3650rpm per volt, my cusin has the same system and his dyno tag says 3580rpm per volt).....

Now i must first say that im not looking for much more speed, im lookingn at getting close to the same run time with mabe a hair more speed, basicly im happy with my Aveox system, but want to get a sensor-less BL system, then if i like it i would sell my Aveox system so that i could buy another sensor-less motor that i would use for speed runs......

I was thinking about getting the Hacker Master Car Competition Controller, and Hacker C40 motor... I am open to other controllers and motors......

What setups do you guys have in your truck(xxxt/t3/t4), How do you like it? Any dis likes?

what turn motor is yours, what do you gear it at?

What do you guys recomend i get?

and lastly i will be getting 2cell (7.4v) Lipo batts this summer and will never have higher voltage then that from now on...
Thanks

:cool:

[Miha]

Let us first know about the results when you replace that 3000HV cells with very good GP3300 cells. ;)

[alpinesky1]

my cusin has 6 new packs of 3300 gp's and i averged about 40sec. more runtime over my 3000's we stopwatched every run, and there wasnt much of a power diffrence, ran my truck all day yesterday, since my cusin broke his T4 we ran 23 batts in my truck:) (we took turns), started at 9am came home at 7:30:D .....

after not driveing my truck since may last year, it was a blast to get back into the rc world:)

[WheelNut]

How much are you selling the Aveox for?

[alpinesky1]

Originally posted by WheelNut
How much are you selling the Aveox for?

WheelNut - im not sure how much used BL stuff goes for, but i wont try to get a arm an a leg for it, just looking for a fair price. Email me at xtremelimits285@hotmail.com , and make me an offer .:) (btw, the system is in perfect shape not one thing wrong)

Come on guys i know a couple of you have a Hacker and Lerner setups

:)

[Signats]

Originally posted by alpinesky1

Come on guys i know a couple of you have a Hacker and Lerner setups
:)

I posted my subjective opinion about both the Novak ss 5800 and a Lehner basic 3100/Schulze setup that were used in a T4 in this thread:http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=160560

HTH

[alpinesky1]

Cool, that Ricky Carmichel bike is awsome, just watch those vids of it that thing looks easyer to drive then the old road bikes 8 years ago that was bigg over here....:)

Thanks for the post

[OptimaMan]

In my old XXXT MF, I've tried a Basic 5300 and a Hacker B508S. The 5300 was much more powerful and uselss for racing because of too much power. The B508S was great for racing - but I used to run a 12-14 tooth pinion because of too much top speed and as a result the thing was wheelie happy.

A Basic 4200 is proably a more ideal setup for 7.4 volts on a dirt track 2wd ST. Plenty of speed yet slow enough to handle with a hooked up truck. However, I don't have or ever seen an RC7 for direct comparison so I couldn't tell you how they compare.

The C40 series is a smaller motor altogether - smaller rotor diameter so less torque than the 50 series or Basic series. However, I do believe that a 1/10 ST is light enough and the power requirements allow you to use them w/o any problems.

The only C40 series I've had was the 6 which is going to be way too fast for a ST. A C40 in the 8-10 turn range would probably work very well.

A Lehner 1920 series would work great - but they're awefully expensive - especially when a 120$ basic would suffice.

A 1520 or 1525 should work just fine too - but again, they're more expensive. The nice thing about the 15 and 19 series motors is that you can change their configuration so if a 6000 rpm/volt motor is too fast, you can resolder some joints and it'll be like 1/2 speed but 2x torque.

You know, you should just try your RC7 with a sensorless controller first - advance the timing slightly and you'll probably gain a few hundred RPM.

[alpinesky1]

OptimaMann - what do you think is the most efficient motor at 7.4v, the Basic 4200 , C40 8T , 1920 (a turn thats = to a basic 4200 or a C40 6-10T)?

What motor would give my truck the longest possible runtime out of those motors?

Price isnt a issue.

Basicly i want the longest runtimes, but power greater or = to my Aveox RC7...(btw some time me my cusin and friend race in the gas truck class, so i need a motor with .12 speed/power) my Aveox is just a tad slower right now on 6cells/7.2v, not much only like 2-3mph. 7cell packs fix that, but like i said before im going with Lipo batteris 2cell/7.4v

Then after i sell my aveox i will get another motor for speed/power only if i need more, i mite try my aveox motor on a sensorless controller, will it be more efficient too or just more rpm?

[OptimaMan]

You know, I really couldn't tell you the most efficient motor at that RPM. If you get motors that are all in the 4200-4500 rpm/volt range, they should have similar efficiencies.

But, theoretically, getting a huge motor vs. a small motor, the small motor will "waste" less energy because less rotating mass especially in a vehicle that constantly stops and goes.

Another consideration is to find out where the motor's most efficient current is at. Typically in larger motors, the efficiency is at higher amperages while in smaller motors, the max efficiency is at lower amperages.

My opinion, feeling, experience has shown that the smaller rotor diameters are better for vehicles weighing less than 5 pounds (such as the Hacker C40 series and Lehner 15 series). Keep in mind I'm splitting hairs here and I'm going out on a limb...

I wouldn't recommend Lehner in a 2wd truck or buggy simply because their motor mount holes are only 3mm long and easily could be stripped if you land on the motor. Hacker motor mounts are 6 mm long and as a result much hardier. In addition, the Lehner 15 series needs a motor adapter plate. The Basic 4200 is really a short motor and won't stick out at all, but once again, it's easily stripped and a hard landing on the motor will dislodge it. The C40L would stick out quite a bit so a C40S would fit in much better. A C40 10 is at 4200, while a 9 turn is at 4667 rpm/volt which could possibly be what you're looking for. You can go 8 turn which is 5250 rpm/volt and just drop a tooth or two - but you will have a lot of torque and power though - maybe too much to handle on a dirt race track.

I guess a 9 turn C40 S would be pretty good for you.. I think Craps has run a C40 8 with LiPos in his ST. You should try to look for his posts.

[alpinesky1]

ok , i was leaning to the hacker C40 motor first , then after your first post i really started looking at the lehner 1525, but i did not know the bolts only went in 3mm, i do heavy jumping, e.i. jump lots of 3-5ft. high jumps when im not raceing, so ill go with the C40 motor.... Thanks

(do you notice a big help in cooling from the C40 motors heatsink fins on long runs)

Also i live in florida and durring the hot 95*F summer heat, my Aveox L160Rc Controller gets hot and Starts to thermal on the 2nd battery(going back to back, putting the second battery in as soon as the 1st battery is dead, and not letting the car cool off). durring the winter its not a problem...

So i had my mind set on the Hacker Master Car Competition Controller ,
1. it has a heatsink:D
2. it has 30 more continous amps 90 vrs the L160rc 60amps....
3. its got a case:cool:

now i know its has timeing settings, and amp settings, i wanted to know if there are any other setting?
also do you guys know what the timeing and amp settings are?
lastly what do they do?:confused:

thanks