Schulze 18.149F WOW !!!

[NIC]

I just got my 18.149F in my mailbox today. I quickly opened the package and pulled out the esc, and WOW !!!
This thing DOES have a few changes from the 129-version.

*2 cables to each batterypole (that I knew already)

*No 3,5mm Schulze-connectors on the motorside !!! Instead there are external soldering points !! Yes, yes, yes no chance of losses there !

*It´s sealed with that white rubber/silicone material all the way from the external soldering points to the end of the yellow Schulze-label. A bit strange that, because it´s just an "F"- controller no "W" for water splash protection. But I don´t mind :) !

*It has a BIG cooling-plate on the underside that covers the hole underside of the controller ! REALLY good !

This must be the best controller yet for BL ! I´m really happy just from looking at it ! I´m sure it will perform great also.

Time to mount it in the Kanai buggy.

NIC

[Simen123]

Cool!
I took a peak at the schulze site, and saw that the measurements was the same that the 12.97.. it`s amazing, 149A in that compact size.
Looking forward to a report on how it works :)

[Miha]

NIC, I am also seriously considering going for the 149 Amp version. I spoke to Matthias Schulze few days ago so he could send me a few more photos. Can you do a snap or two and post if for us here?

Thanks!

I am awaiting for your report in the buggy. I am particulary interested how smooth the throttle is.

[Miha]

NIC send me ohotos of his 18.149F and said I can publish them here.

[Miha]

Dual wires.

[Miha]

Soldering posts.

[Miha]

On the weight scale.

[toofastkx]

I was thinking of selling the Novak and going with this controller and lehner 5300 motor.

question: what are the extra wires for? The solder tabs are for the motor output. The connector is fpr the receiver. One pos. and one neg for the battery. What about the other two red and black?
Just curious

[NIC]

toofastkx:

There are 2 cables to each batterypole to spread the current between 2 connectors instead of one, wich means less losses.

NIC

[toofastkx]

just asking b/c I'm going to buy one with the lehner motor.

[Muck]

It has to be easier to soldier two smaller wires versus one big wire. I know I had trouble getting the big wire hot enough even with an 80w soldiering iron. I think I ened up using a mini butane torch!

[dhauch]

NIC, where did you buy it and how much?

Thanks,
dave hauch

[NIC]

I bought it here:

http://www.airel.nu/ (www.airel.nu/)

I live in Sweden, that makes it easier ;)

NIC

[Miha]

NIC, did you tested the controller?

[NIC]

Miha:

We still have winter here you know.....But there are actually some dry asfalt spots now. I have just been out for a test run with the Kanai and the 18.149. And the Kanai, as I write this, is actually charging for a second testrun.

The first run were made at "my" road were I live :) (were I shot the original Kanai and TF-2 video). The run lasted 8 min and 40 seconds effective driving with tarmac tires. The traction were really low as the asfalt had a thin, thin later of dust on it. And it was -2 Celsius......so....not to much grip available.
The throttle-feeling is about the same, maybe slightly better, hard to tell when it was such a long time since I drove the 18.129 in the Kanai. Only a direct swap between the two will tell. I will most certainly do that during the next week to so all of you know the differens.
But why should you buy the 129 when the 149 is out ? The differens in price isn´t much. The 149 is much better crafted, or better quality if you like.

The temps however were really good, the esc was 29 C or 84 F, motor was 40 C or 104 F. This is offcoarse due to the low outside temp and the fact I have 2 fans for cooling, one for the esc and one for the motor. And when they blow that cold air, around freezing temp, the result should be this good.

Miha, I will send you a movie, most likely on saturday, that shows everything you want to know about the esc.
But no question at all, this esc is a 10 out of 10.

NIC

[yf22k]

Miha:

We still have winter here you know.....But there are actually some dry asfalt spots now. I have just been out for a test run with the Kanai and the 18.149. And the Kanai, as I write this, is actually charging for a second testrun.

The first run were made at "my" road were I live :) (were I shot the original Kanai and TF-2 video). The run lasted 8 min and 40 seconds effective driving with tarmac tires. The traction were really low as the asfalt had a thin, thin later of dust on it. And it was -2 Celsius......so....not to much grip available.
The throttle-feeling is about the same, maybe slightly better, hard to tell when it was such a long time since I drove the 18.129 in the Kanai. Only a direct swap between the two will tell. I will most certainly do that during the next week to so all of you know the differens.
But why should you buy the 129 when the 149 is out ? The differens in price isn´t much. The 149 is much better crafted, or better quality if you like.

The temps however were really good, the esc was 29 C or 84 F, motor was 40 C or 104 F. This is offcoarse due to the low outside temp and the fact I have 2 fans for cooling, one for the esc and one for the motor. And when they blow that cold air, around freezing temp, the result should be this good.

Miha, I will send you a movie, most likely on saturday, that shows everything you want to know about the esc.
But no question at all, this esc is a 10 out of 10.

NIC


I'm looking for a new esc for a custom r/c car. I'm leaning towards the uforce75 right now due to its heatsink, programmability, shape, throttle control and versatility. However, It has a rating of 75 continuous amps and 100 peak. This may be too low for a 1930 or 2230 series lehner motor. I was wondering if anyone can compare the schulze 18.129 and 18.149 controllers to the uforce and/or schulze 18.61 which i currently run. I'm mainly concerned with throttle control and ease of use, etc. Any other points you'd like to make about these controllers is welcome as well.

Thanks,
Keith

[NIC]

Hi Keith,

A little more info about the car/vehicle would be nice such as weight, type of drivetrain (2wd/4wd) and tires.
But my first pick without knowing anything besides the motorchoise would be the 18.149.

NIC

[yf22k]

its going to be rear wheel drive, i'm guessing about the weight of a nitro tc3...maybe a little heavier. I will be running 2.48mm tires from an f201. The more i go through possible gearbox designs and motor choices, I lean towards the 18.149 because of its higher current capability. However I'm also concerned with smooth throttle control...

-Keith

[NIC]

Hm, getting closer to recommend a set-up that would work...So.... it´s a road going car then. Touring type of model maybe ?
I don´t think you should use the 19 series or even worse; the 22 series for that project since its 2wd.
They have to much power and the "wrong" type of power also for such a small car.
Is it a speedrun-car or are you planing on doing some turning ?

A set-up that´s REALLY powerful, more prob. than that car could handle when cornering is the C40 10S with 10 FAUP:s. 5 min MAXIMUM hard pushing runtime with absolutely no sweat for the U-Force.
If you are after up-and-down-the-street-speed the U-Force will be good for a couple of 110-120 km/h (68-75mph) passes with 10-12 cells before it gets to hot and shuts down. That´s the performance you can expect from the UF.
If you are positive you want more power then that you must use the 18.149 but then you are pretty much limited to going just straight forward. Trying to put the power down after an exit of a corner that the 18.149 is capable of in, let say a touring car isn´t just going to happen. Spinn-out, belt shredding, driveshaft/drivecup breakage, gear stripping and diff slipping will be the results.

Let´s say that your 18.61 has the same smoothness as my 18.129, then you will notice a slight improvement going to the 18.149 and then top of the line brushed speedcontroll smoothness with the U-Force.

NIC

[yf22k]

Hm, getting closer to recommend a set-up that would work...So.... it´s a road going car then. Touring type of model maybe ?
I don´t think you should use the 19 series or even worse; the 22 series for that project since its 2wd.
They have to much power and the "wrong" type of power also for such a small car.
Is it a speedrun-car or are you planing on doing some turning ?

A set-up that´s REALLY powerful, more prob. than that car could handle when cornering is the C40 10S with 10 FAUP:s. 5 min MAXIMUM hard pushing runtime with absolutely no sweat for the U-Force.
If you are after up-and-down-the-street-speed the U-Force will be good for a couple of 110-120 km/h (68-75mph) passes with 10-12 cells before it gets to hot and shuts down. That´s the performance you can expect from the UF.
If you are positive you want more power then that you must use the 18.149 but then you are pretty much limited to going just straight forward. Trying to put the power down after an exit of a corner that the 18.149 is capable of in, let say a touring car isn´t just going to happen. Spinn-out, belt shredding, driveshaft/drivecup breakage, gear stripping and diff slipping will be the results.

Let´s say that your 18.61 has the same smoothness as my 18.129, then you will notice a slight improvement going to the 18.149 and then top of the line brushed speedcontroll smoothness with the U-Force.

NIC
Well the drivetrain is pretty beefy. Have titanium driveshafts and such...I'm going for an overkill car in all respects...has good handling with power on reserve. I can adjust throttle curves as needed. What kinds of currents can the 1920 and 1930 pull? does it max out at a certain amperage till it just overheats and dies?

Oh and where can I buy an 18.149? I know finedesign sells the 129...

Thanks,
Keith

[racinlosi]

www.icare-rc.com has the 18.149(I have been looking at this ESC also)....

[yf22k]

Hey guys,

I will be ordering my 18.149 soon. I was wondering if anyone has any idea how much current a lehner 1930/4 can pull. Will it max out at a certain amperage or unlimited until it shreds itself apart?

Thanks,
Keith

[starluckrc]

It can pull over 150 amps spikes (based on data from the 1930/5). A less powerful motor will be faster in that application.......less weight, less voltage drop, etc.

[yf22k]

hmm ok. Where have you gotten this data from? Is there a site that shows the power bands compared to current draw of these motors?

Thanks,
Keith

[starluckrc]

From a 1930/5 bench tested in an E-Maxx. You may get a little less in a small car, but the 1500 series were meant for that application, so the 1930 will not be very driveable. There are some charts around LMT motors site somewhere. I'll have to dig those up, but it doesn't show spikes.

[yf22k]

Ok...I hope I don't get annoying with these detailed questions, but what was your highest and average current spikes and at what final ratio?

Thanks,
Keith

[starluckrc]

Sorry......not my motor or my tests, so I don't have all that info.

[yf22k]

ok np. thanks for ur help.

-Keith