what switch and fan for lehner basic/warrior

[J mAn]

I just got my lehner basic 5300 and warrior 7018 controller in the mail today(I got them both for $150 shipped!! :eek: ) Anyway everything works fine but there is no on0off switch for teh controller. Basicly once you plug in the batt its on until you unplug it.

Well I would like to add a switch inbetween the battery lead and the connector to serve as an on-off switch for the esc.
My only problem is i don't know what kind of switch to look for... I will be running it on 6 cells and I need to know how many amps that would draw in a touring car and possibly a 1/10 buggy. What rating should I look for in a switch and any sugestions on a site that has a good selection?

Also where can I get 1.5"x1.5" or 2x2" fans taht operate on 6-7.2 volts? i need a fan on the warrior controller which has BEC so it would go inline with the battery so it would operate of 7.2 volts. It would also have to be small enough to fit into a cramped touring car chassis. And on my emaxx i need a slightly larger or same size fan for my hacker master car sport which I would run off the reciever pack...

sorry for long post

[DaFF]

Where did you get them both for 150$ ? did you pay extra for car programming the esc ? (usually + 10 $)

Also keep up posted as to how it does perform ( smooth or cogging...)

Not sure for your question regarding the amp, but if I where you, I'll use the 70 amp value as it is the max value your esc can take....

DFF

[J mAn]

i mean an on-off switch. I got it for $150 on teh maxxtraxx forums.... i was just very lucky

[Craps]

Also you could add an on/off switch that comes with the radio/reciever. You plug the BEC into the connector that goes to the switch that connects to the reciever.

I had one of these come with my Futaba 3PK radio that I use with my 1/8th electric Mugen buggy so I can keep the reciever in the reciever box.

I know it doesn't cut off the power from the ESC, but it will keep the car/truck from running away and besides if the Warrior ESC is like the Schulze ESC, it will not finish setting up until it has a signal from the reciever.

This on/off BEC switch will be alot cheaper and simplier than a switch in the main power from the battery.

Good Luck!

[Mr. Constructor]

Do NOT try to switch it because the main power lines are taking up to 70A during a really power drive, the bec system with the switcher from a radio isn´t that bad solution, but what´s bad on getting the esc ready when connecting the battery ?? (i own several Warriors, that doesn´t seem to be a problem for me, it really is an advantage, as most other esc´s only use their Switch to power (on -Off) their BEC cicuitry, the esc (and though the motor in case of an error) might run although and with the battery "switching it on, there is no hassle about what happens to your BEC or not, the system is on, that´s it, not partly on (as the most other esc do)

And for the switch, if you really wanna try to solder a 70 A switch between the power lines, try to get one at: www.conrad.com (they should sell worldwide) but this switch is very heavy and big too, not that easy to fit it in any car (even the biggest ones !!)

[J mAn]

ill just leave it alone... any heat problems on 6 cells with a lehner 5300 ya think?

[Mr. Constructor]

I use the warrior with a 2240/13 S from LMT in a 18 cell 6th Buggy, without having THAT much (OK, a several heatsink was mounted) Heat problems, so if you do gear it right, it shouldn´t be a Problem at all, start with a low gearing, then go up with the teeths on the pinion that is the safest thing, if it gets hot very fast (so you can´t touch it (or above 90° Celsius if you have a Meter for the Motor and around 80° Celsius for the esc)) you should go 1 tooth back !!

have fun with it, it really is a good beginner set, and this set IS upgradeable as you see in my 6th buggy !! (it´s the same esc, only other parts around it !!)

[J mAn]

also what do you mena get it ready? what is the orange box and the black tab on the controller? I know the orange box has to do with programming but im not sure exactly...

[Mr. Constructor]

As far as i know (i haven´t programmed them for nearly 1 year, the newer ones where other brands)
is:
The orange one is pulled away with having the battery disconnected, then connect it, then you could programm the throttle settings (neutral, brake etc.) and then push the orange nob back, after that you could disconnect the battery !!
the black one is for the bec system, if you´re using up to 12 cells and only 1 servo, you could use it, if anything else applies, then disconnect the small black nob, then you´ll have no BEC, the receiver wants his own pack but the cells are rising to 18 max. !!
(maybe the descriptions are changed, it is possible that the orange one was the bec nob and the other the settings nob, please try that out !! (i really haven´t programmed them THAT long i discovered right now . . .)

But if everything is running fine, why changing?? (the procedure of programming should be shown in your manual, take a look there first !!)
There is a good speech from the PC sector: never change a running system ;-))

[J mAn]

i didnt get a manual with it, thats why I asked, but thanks

[DaFF]

Mr Constructor,

What do you think of the Warrior ESC ? likes and dislikes, cogging or not, reliability...

Is the BEC feeding the servo with 5 or 6 volt ?

Want to put in a lightweight touring car a 7018 esc and 4200 motor combo on 3 lipo cells for 11.1 volt.

Thanks

Greetings from France (Toulouse), been in Hambourg many time, on Airbus site, currently working for them as tech engineer on the A380 !

DFF

[J mAn]

if anyone wnats one of these system I know a guy looking to sell his($225 firm) its a good deal.... dont expect to ever find one for what i got :) ...

[Mr. Constructor]

@ DaFF:

great thing with airbus, i´m trying to get there too (in Hamburg) my old job was the construction at Blohm + Voss Yard, maybe there are some jobs free??

Ok, now for the warrior:

Likes: cheap, up to 18 cells (w/o BEC, 12 with) relatively small, easy ways to get another better heatsink on it, as it has only one circuit board, easy to setup

Dislikes:

the low speed cogging is the worst one of all esc´s i´ve tested so far (all major brands where tested), runs ONLY with 2 poles (without problems), the other version with 30° timing runs my LRK only up to 90%

As for the BEC, it puts out around 5.5 V depends on the power the servo drains, the modern digital servo´s really drain that much, so the voltage goes down to around 5 V but still very good, the car could be driven to the end of the pack, without getting it to drive away (wich easily happens with the Hacker/Jeti Car esc´s (the new prototype is free of that, but still not yet available, mine is the best one i´ve tested so far)

So there is only one major thing to know, if running on 2 pole, the cogging at the start is worse, but if the car IS rolling, nothing is left from this thing, so if you could survive that, it´s the best low end esc you could get, to get a really big better one, the money has to be taken by factor 2 or even more !!

[DaFF]

Thank you, for your answer.

I think I'll go with the Warrior for now until another company like Castle Creation do a new ESC that can handle around 70 amp, and is cheap, smooth and have 6 volt BEC

I would go 18.61K or 18.91FWK but it is way more money (and with the 18.61 you still need an extra receiver pack or BEC)

DFF

[Mr. Constructor]

@Daff:

Maybe these ones will be better suitable for you:

www.kontronik.com (the jazz esc and the Twist Motor)
or (in france) www.electronicmodel.com,
their RC Car esc ´s are pretty good, and they´re powerful and cheap too, plus they´ll run on Lrk AND 2 poles !!
(the kontronik ones are VERY more versatile, but maybe not that cheap, the biggest car esc from Electronic model was around 200? (incl. shipping etc. to germany) but the kontroniks really do offer the better value for the money, a 55-6-18 jazz is around 170? here in Hamburg (this is enough for every 10th car application !!

maybe these are the better solution ??

see ya

[DaFF]

Thanks a lot Mr. Constructor for all those info.

DFF