Slipper clutch for electric 1/8th buggy?

[Craps]

It just occured to me this buggy does not have a slipper clutch like all of my other RCs. That maybe why it is ripping gears out of it so easy along with using soft metal gears. It still has 3 diffs to take some of the direct drive out of the drive train, but that is still alot of force to transmit through the drive train into the gear mesh.

A gas buggy has a clutch to have some cushion to the gears.

Ideas or suggestions???

What does an E-Maxx use as far as a slipper or clutch? It has to have something that takes out that direct drive force because it uses a plastics main gear.

I may have to add a gas type clutch, the brakes and a servo for the brakes to end my gear problem unless somebody has another idea.

I am going to try the carbon steel pinion gear to hopefully correct my problem.

[NIC]

Hi Craps !

Strange to hear that you have such a big problem with your gears.
I even took out all the gears from my centerdiff and looked it for a complete 4WD, and on top of that I even change the standard hard steel-gear to a plastic one !!!! The centerdiff now doesn´t weigh 1/3:rd of a complete LSD diff, so the spool up, or if you will, the aggressive acceleration is even more brutal due too the superlow rotating-mass and that WITH constant 4WD !

You said you had problem with the weight of the motor bending the motorplate and therefore messed up the gearmesh. Have you made anything for that, to stiffen up the motormounting ?
If the gearmesh is right the gear shouldn´t stripp, it just shouldn´t....
If it´s still the case maybe Mugen has bad quality in their gears, but that still feels preety odd...., it´s a buggy of highest quality otherwise.

Ok, what you can do is to try very light oil, like 1000, in the centerdiff ( if you have a standard diff in the middle ) to move the power to the front wheels during acceleration. The thicker the oil in the centerdiff is, the harder strain it puts on the main gear because the weight of the car transfers to the rear during acceleration. If you have lots of "drive", meaning thicker oil in the centerdiff the more power goes through the rear wheels and therefore puts the main gear under more stress.
The light centerdiff therefore acts like a slipperclutch and reduse the forward momentum because it sends most of the power to the frontwheels. Your car will act a little like a front wheel drive car when you accelerate.
If you haven´t tried that out, test it and report back ;).

NIC

[DaFF]

You might be able to adapt in some way a slipper from a Savage:

Savage slipper clutch hub:

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpic6130.jpg

Savage spur + slipper pad

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpic7693.jpg

It should take the abuse of your motor, but it is somewhat limited by the fact that you might melt the plastic spur...

If not, there is as well better slipper clutch.

The best are from Strobe for the T_Maxx

Otherwise, you might want to try a Savage slipper hop-up from Kippster racing :

http://www.kippster-racing.com/store/product.asp?ID=37&type=2

It's based on the T-Maxx / Strobe excellent slipper design and is less prone to be melted.

Hope this help

DFF

[Craps]

We have replaced the motor mount with a thicker stronger piece of alum (see pics in other thread) and loctite the center diff tower mounts so there is no movement along with epoxy on the back of the motor can to keep it from sliding backwards. I think the stainless steel gears are my problem by them being to soft a metal against a hardened steel main gear.

I am in NJ now and my wife says my carbon steel gears came in today(NC). So when I get back home tomorrow, I have to try them and maybe some track testing Friday will be the true test.

I may try that with the center diff, since i think it has the stock 3000(?) oil in it.

I would like to get this problem out of the way so I can get some runtime testing with the Li-Pos.

Do you think the pair of 11.1 volt batteries will extend my runtimes over the pair of 7.4 volt batteries?

Will motor/ESC heat be less with the 11.1 volt batteries?

I am trying for a 45 minute nonstop buggy, but I am not getting my hopes up yet!!!!

[DualBL]

not sure if it'll fit or not, but someone i know that has a electric Hyper7 used a Dominator slipper in his hyper
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCXB2&P=7

it's a little bit longer than the stock diff, and very pricey, but that'd be the best bet to throw on a hyper7. you'll also need dominator outdrives for it. or at least i think so, because the hyper7's outdrives don't fit it.
not sure how much different the center of the hyper7 is to the mugen is tho.

and I'd switch to plastic spur gear if i was you. I havn't heard anything but trouble with steel spurs.

-Nick