HB Lightning RR Forum v3.0

[Ferrari_Spyder]

feel free to make tower rich from your stupidity:o

okay sry but if ur not buying from me, atleast buy from rcboyz.com

[Havok2112]

I'm haveing a debate with the Hot Bodies Lightning pro buggy? I've heard good things about the buggy. I'm having a hard time deciding if I want to get the HB lightning pro and get a good radio gear and good servo's for it, or should I get the hyper 7 PBS RTR? I'll be racing here and there but not to dedicated to it, and some bashing on our track we built for my friends and I to run them besides the race track. I know this is a Lightning forum but I'm wondering if anyone has ran them both and or seen run together to give a honest opinion on the 2 thx.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

u posted this same thing at the ofna forum right?

well i gave the first opinion on the ofna forum and when they are at the same price, (i didnt want to say it there) but the lightning is better. the hyper 7 pbs might be a better car but when u match them to the same price the lightning pro will be a much all around quality car+electronics.

note that when you but the hyper rtr's or any rtr's it is necessary for an immediate servo change and soon a radio change.

[NitroBoy24]

Originally posted by Ferrari_Spyder
feel free to make tower rich from your stupidity:o

okay sry but if ur not buying from me, atleast buy from rcboyz.com

Hey do you sell the "original" pro kit or whatever you wanna call it?? Bascially its the HB Lightning kit for $320 on tower hobbies.

This buggy has caught my eye so if I decide to buy one its on the top of my list. IMO you cant beat the $320 (or whatever you sell it for) price tag on the kit and from what Ive heard this is a GREAT buggy. First I need to get a FM radio (undecided so far, maybe a JR XR3 or MX3..) and then like a $30 piston/sleeve combo for my ae .15.

What "cheap" steering servo would you recommend for the lightning? Cheap as in like under or around $75 :D I might do some oval and track racing but mainly Im gonna bash the hell out of it!! Also, is the top speed in the mid to high 40s like most 1/8 buggies?? And if theres anything you like/dislike about the buggy that you wanna say then go ahead!

BTW
Ferrari_Spyder my email address is fmfrider024@yahoo.com so whatever your prices are just email it there and post it. Im saying this because my computer is being a total B1TCH (virus) so I cant post on RCZone at home and it wont let me view certain forums...Bunch 'o bs!! lol.

NitroBoy24

[Havok2112]

So I should be comparing the the lightning pro to the hyper 7 pro instead of the hyper 7 pbs. Cause there both pro's. And the lightning rtr and the hyper 7 pbs rtr would be more suitable to compare those 2 buggies. So your saying the hb lightning pro is better then the hyper 7 pbs more a less. Cause everyone says for all the stuff that comes with the lightning pro for that price is a steel. Cause I'm thinking the radio gear and starter box that comes with the PBS are not freebies, that they just thrown in there hehe.

[cbr74]

The starter box and radio gear that come with the H7 are junk. Almost all RTR gear is. (Lightning RTR is no exception)

The Lightning Pro, however, has more features per dollar than any other buggy on the market.

[Havok2112]

Does the lightning pro have aluminium diff cups? and do I have to get diffrent motor mounts to put a diffrent engine in, cause I heard the L pro's mounts are made just for there stock engine.

[cbr74]

No, they're plastic. They don't need to be aluminum, that just adds weight and rotating mass. The plastic ones hold up just fine. (The MP 7.5 uses plastic diff cups, even the KE's)

Engine mount... nonsense. I dropped a Paris Picco 7 port XP 21 into my Lightning, no mods. Others here have put in Hyper 8 ports, OS V01's, and so forth without mods.

There was one guy that was bent because you can't put on OS RG-X in the Lightning, but that's due to OS' huge ass pullstart assembly. It's no fault of the Lightning's.

[Havok2112]

Thx for your help cbr74. I made my mind up, I'm going with the HB Lightning Pro over the Hyper 7 PBS. I've debated over this to long hehe. One more question the MP 7.5 torshen diffs will fit the Pro right? Incase I do get into some serious racing later.

[cbr74]

As far as I know, yes the TorSen's will fit.

Lightning Pro is hard to beat at $290.
http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_productinfo&uid=466&clist=0&pi_id=37203

[Havok2112]

Sorry for all the questions but I'm new to the buggies, but is all 1/8 buggy rims unversial? Cause I like the hyper 7 rim design.

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by Havok2112
Sorry for all the questions but I'm new to the buggies, but is all 1/8 buggy rims unversial? Cause I like the hyper 7 rim design.

I believe so, as long as they are 17mm.

[Blacktiger]

All but the Duratrax Axis rims which are 19 mm. 17mm is the standard for 1/8 scale buggies.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

nitroboy - sry i cant email anyone its not werkin right now.

im just selling one lightning rr that i got accidentally

its on ebay right now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=3174939701&ssPageName=STRK:MESSE:IT

[Combatcm]

I have the hot bodies .21 in my MBX. I purchased it virtually unused. When I got it I reset it to factory settings (Flush and 4 turns out). That was for break in, if it even needed it. Several tanks later it was at 3 1/4 out. It seems to load up a lot and then die after I throttle up. It bogs down a lot after slow speeds. Is this because it's too rich? The clutch is fine.

[Blacktiger]

http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/RB-S5-1.JPG

Brand new RB Concepts S5 .21 racing engine for my buggy. :D

This motor just came out from RB and isn't even on their website yet. According to the RB forum though, it is a variation of the tried and true S7 and WS7 motor with 5 ports instead of 7. Built for the tighter tracks we have here in the US. So it should have lots of bottom end. WOOHOO!

http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/RB-S5-2.JPG

http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/RB-S5-3.JPG

[cbr74]

Where'd you get it and what did it cost?

[Blacktiger]

Hey, figured someone might ask that. I got it from PDL racing. He has an ebay store. Price was $212 shipped to my door. I'm pretty sure it was a special price though since it is a new motor. He had another one listed for $224. RB's distibutor says it lists for $300.

Here is a link to PDL racings ebay store. (http://stores.ebay.com/id=22600027)

And here is the Sigmatrading price list for RB engines. (http://www.sigmatrading.com/RBConcept/rbpricelist.htm)

[Ferrari_Spyder]

okay sry for the non-lightning ot post but:

im selling my duratrax realrace and im confused why the bidding is getting so high

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1200&item=3174463688&ssPageName=STRK:MESSE:IT

do i make it sound like it is the generation 2?

i bought it for 20 bux shipped and its going for 35 shipped. i dont want to make the winner think i ripped them off or anything.

[cbr74]

E-Bay's just that way sometimes. I've listed items with a Buy It Now price and then have the final bid actually exceed it.

[gr8taz nitro]

My new Novarossi rx21 5P turbo arrived today. woohooooo! still too cold to break it in though. Doh!!!!

cbr, gonna take your advice and go up a tooth on the clutchbell to a 14, and thinkin about dropping a tooth on the spur. lmk what you think.

Also, anybody try an ofna 063 tuned pipe? I hear that they are comparible to the rex and nova pipes at 1/2 the cost. I kinda spent more on the engine than I really meant to. :rolleyes: (don't tell my wife ) LOL.

[cbr74]

Sounds good... but I'm not aware of a 45T spur that'll fit the Lightning... you can get a 44 though. HBSC80271

When I put my Picco XP in, I used an Ofna 14T bell #10400.

I've seen it said that the Ofna pipes offer the same exact performance as the RB's... but I can't personally verify that.

I run an OFN 10077 and I like it... but have nothing to compare it to.

I suggest just using the stocker if funds are tight... it's a good pipe, it's just not one-piece. I run the stock Lightning pipe on an 8 port Hyper in my Dominator and it runs fantastic.

[Tim'sLosi]

Just curious...why so much for shipping?? It'll probably cost $5 or less to ship. Not flamin', just wunderin'!


Originally posted by Ferrari_Spyder
okay sry for the non-lightning ot post but:

im selling my duratrax realrace and im confused why the bidding is getting so high

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1200&item=3174463688&ssPageName=STRK:MESSE:IT

do i make it sound like it is the generation 2?

i bought it for 20 bux shipped and its going for 35 shipped. i dont want to make the winner think i ripped them off or anything.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

Originally posted by Tim'sLosi
Just curious...why so much for shipping?? It'll probably cost $5 or less to ship. Not flamin', just wunderin'!

its my ebay strategy :rolleyes:

i dotn use the shippin cost to pay for shippin, i use it as another way to charge the buyer. its phycological. the brain puts aside the extra charges and focuses on the main charge. how do phone companies and credit card companies make their money???

its not cheating, its just using the buyer

[cbr74]

All true, but it's against E-Bay policy. It's considered circumvention of fees.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

really? didnt know that.

well the shippin should be more like 10 anyways cus the box is pretty huge for the game cus it comes with the controller

[maddmaxx45]

hey, what parts can I get from an LP2 to put on to my LP1, to help it preform, and act, and be as good as the new lightning pro 2. also what were the most important differences between the two?

[CRSMP5]

the rubber sealed bearings are the most important in my opinion.. the radio tray is different, the steering servo lays down.. most peopl elike us will never feel that differance.. and the 22mm caster setup for the front suspention.. which i heard loooks much weaker for the c hub..

[razataz]

Looks like I was late Rc boyz or out of lp1's. Anyone else have cheap ones.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

darn! i cancelled my order on the hitec hs5945 cus it was backordered and they are out.

i figure since i got so much from my realrace i can afford the best servo money can buy, but i couldnt find any.

i looked at the futaba,airtronics, and hitec page.

the best futaba:
FUTM0236 S9351 Hi Torque N/A 180/.15

the best hitec:
hs5945 180/.13

and the best airtronics:
94358Z ERG-VB High Torque Servo 200/.10

so the airtonics was the best one i could find but it was only $105.00

where are all the $130's?

[cbr74]

raz... there was a link for a place that also had LP's at $290... not sure how many pages back it is though.

Ferrari... If you want some expensive servos... look at Ko Propo
http://www.shopatron.com/index/166.0.605.234.0.0.0

[Ferrari_Spyder]

this has the same torque and speed as the hs5945 for $40 more?!



KO PROPO PDS-2344 FET Servo

KO PROPO - PDS-2344 FET Servo
Item is available.
$130.00




Shipping Notes:
US and Canada shipping only


The new programmable digital performance servo. High torque type suitable for all gas and electric cars. Features are as follows: 6V, torque 180.5oz-in (13.0kg-cm), speed 0.13S @ 60 deg., weight of 1.93oz, metal gears, double ball bearings, gold plated connector, size of 1.61(41)x1.50(38)x0.79(20)in(mm). The PC Interface is required to change the settings.


For information on products in the KO PROPO online catalog, send email to info@kopropo.com.
For technical questions send email to support@kopropo.com

KO PROPO
16012 South Western Ave.
Suite 300
Gardena, CA 90247
United States of America
(310) 532-9355 Fax: (310) 532-9354

© Copyright 2000-2003,FirePoppy, Inc. and KO PROPO. All Rights Reserved.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

ooops copyrighted lol

[razataz]

Getting lp1 how tall of grass will it be able to run through.

[CRSMP5]

1/2" max.. any taller it gets into everything.. dont forget to rake ofter cutting it.. else you get cut grass everywhere..

[atm92484_3]

Has anyone gotten a Pro 2 yet?

[Blacktiger]

Yay! got it mounted. :D
Should have it broke in by the weekend.

http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/RB-S5-mounted1.JPG

http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/RB-S5-mounted2.JPG

[KandL Racing]

Kewl! I put a new RB in mine as well before my last race. Broke it in on Friday and Saturday morning and raced it on Saturday. It's the S7 motor (1003 - sport). But boy does it fly! Here's a look at it. Note I had the RTR wheels on for breakin.

The 2nd image is my funny story of the day. It's a photo of our "big double" in front of the drivers stand. Clear that and then you have a 90 degree left hander to a table top. Well with my old HB motor, I would usually have to nail it on the short stretch in from of this jump to clear it. Being that I was breaking in the motor, I never got a chance to try the jump with the new motor till the 1st qualifier. So I nailed it as usual... well... The buggy landed about 1 foot from the big white pipe and then bounced off the track! So, I didn't nail it on that jump any more... man that is awesome power :)


http://www.teamstealth.com/rc/DSC02144.JPG


http://www.teamstealth.com/rc/DSC02182.JPG

[Casey]

Hot Bodies has finally updated their website. Here's the link to the Lightning 2 Pro page:
http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightning2pro.html

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net

[XJ667]

Yeah they put the LP2 up and took the LP1 off. I guess they dont plan on selling them anymore. I wont if they are planning on coming out with a ARR like they did with the LP1.

Oh and one more thing.

Does everyone pretty much run 3k/1k in the diffs front and rear. Which would be better for the center 5k 7k or 10k?

I am getting mine on sunday and was going to purchase the diff oils and wanted to know with out going through all of the posts again.

[cbr74]

5k/10k/1k per HB's recommendation.

[XJ667]

Thanks CBR. I will pick that up all with the car.

Did you guys see the LP2 is on ebay already the guy has 3 of them. $375 buy it now price.

[cbr74]

The L1 was a better value. The L2 has a higher price tag and doesn't include an engine. Lay down servo shmay down servo, I'll keep my L1.

[XJ667]

Well you could alway put the lp2 parts on it I would think. I would stick with the LP1 too. $375 is still quite a bit cheaper then any other kits out there. My buddy just paid $500 for the PCR pro. And it looks as if it gets hit hard enough in the side, there goes the throttle linkage and the car is gone.

[cbr74]

Well, yeah.. price still aint bad... just got spoiled with the steal of a deal that the L1 was.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

okay the amount of money id have to sell my lighting rr for it makes more sense to just keep the rr and sell the little extras + radio. what things are diferent from the rr to a pro and how much does it cost to convert all those things?

[cbr74]

OK, I have all the new part #'s and their retail prices... here goes:

C5014-1 Air filter set- black $6.00
C8001-1 stone guard 2 $10.00
C8005-1 F.R uopper suspension arm 1 set $6.00
C8006-1 deck wing holder $5.75
C8007-1 replacement fuel tank $9.50
C8009-1 differential case $5.75
C8010-1 lower suspensio arm set F,R $7.50
C8011-1 22 degree front hub carriersL,R $4.75
C8018-1 front upper turnbuckle 5X30mm $4.00
C8020-1 rubber sealed bearing 8X16mm(4 pcs) $12.00
C8031-2 air filter connector-black $2.50
C8033-1 hard shock springs std $5.00
C8034-1 hard shock springs long $6.00
C8037-4 alum. anodized chassis 7075 3mm $52
C8039-2 5mm hex wheel adapters purple $6.00
C8040-2 6.7mm hex wheel adapters purple $6.00
C8051-1 1/8 deck wing black $7.00
C8055-1 air cleaner cover-black $4.00
C8056-1 receiver box $12.00
C8058-1 dust-proof cover black $2.00
C8073-4 rear shocktower 7075 4mm $31.00
C8074-1 steering holder reinforcement 6061 3mm $6.00
C8075-4 front shocktower 7075 4mm $31.00
C8080-1 upper chassis $6.00
C8084-1 F.R differential (hardened) $49.00
C8094H racing tire B hard $19.00
C8094S racing tire B soft $19.00
C8102-1 steering servo push rod $5.00
C8104-2 3.5mm front shock set/racing $52.00
C8105-2 3.5mm rear shock set/racing $54.00
C8106-2 3.5mm front shock rebuild kit $13.00
C8107-2 3.5mm rear shock rebuild kit $13.00
C8118-1 servo saver $7.00
C8131 3.5mm o-ring 10 pcs $4.00
C8133 1/8 buggy body $22.00
C8133-2 1/8 buggy body painted and trimmed $43.00
C8134 screw & ball F. upper arms $4.00
C8135 fixed mount for steering $5.00
C8136 plastic part for servos $6.00
C8137 CNC engine mount $20.00
C8138 CNC fixed mount for tuned pipe $6.00
C8139H M3 buggy tires hard $20.00
C8139M M3 buggy tires medium $20.00
C8139S M3 buggy tires soft $20.00


Man, you believe I typed all that? The lengths I go to for you guys... LOL

[razataz]

I received my lp1 from ebay 299.ship to my door.It does look nice for the price. This is my fist nitro. I'm glad this site is here to help out.

[Blacktiger]

Congrats on your purchase razataz! If there is anything you need help with just ask. One or more of us will try to help the best we can.

Oh and nice list cbr74.

Also, does anyone know what size bearings are used on the servo saver shafts? My bushings are very sloppy and I want to upgrade to bearings.

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by Blacktiger
Also, does anyone know what size bearings are used on the servo saver shafts? My bushings are very sloppy and I want to upgrade to bearings.
I was told by VMach a couple of pages back that they are 6X10. I have them but have'nt had the time to install them on my new pro. They do look right, though.
TT

[Blacktiger]

Thank you very much Tim'sLosi! :D

[cbr74]

6X10X3 bearings in the Lightning bellcranks, same size as Savage, same size as Ofna Dominator.

[sodium]

can anyone tell me witch engine the LP got? i mean the stock one... chouldnt find it...
thanks

[gr8taz nitro]

stock engine on the rr and the lp1 was a hot bodies 21 aka nitro star 21 bb.

cbr, got my novarossi mounted with the 14 tooth bell and started breakin. I'm on my 5th tank and it just flat out screams. Thanx again for the advice on gearing up. :D

[razataz]

Couple of newbie ? Is the oil in the diffs ok to bash with for now,or do I need to change to 3/7/1. Do I need to loctite the cv set screws ? In Patrs/screws bag(c8112) what are the two pieces of plastic (Look like car side mirror thangs) for?

[cbr74]

cbr, got my novarossi mounted with the 14 tooth bell and started breakin. I'm on my 5th tank and it just flat out screams. Thanx again for the advice on gearing up.

Yup. The stock gearing is fine for the stock engine.. but bolt in sumthin with some REAL horsepower... and it needs gearing up.

razataz... LP can bash just fine right of the box. On the CV set screws... if you can break them loose... then loctite 'em.
Those car side mirror thangs... are car side mirror thangs. They go on the body.

[sodium]

can you tell me where i can find some info about that hot bodies engine? or can you tell me? cuz i didnt find it nowhere.

[Ooopps]

Anyone know where I can find a LP1 in stock, RCBoyz is out, nothing on ebay.

Thanks

[Ferrari_Spyder]

how much would it cost to upgrade the rr to a pro? im going to the hobby shop right now and im either selling the rr to them if they give me a good price, or im selling the servos+radio+batts and gunna upgrade the rr to a pro.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

okay they wont buy it, and nobody seems to buy from me on ebay, so i am keeping the lightning rr. i just bought mugen 3k,7k, but i forgot what the read dif was supposed to be wether 5k or 1k so i only got front and center. i got one of those microtemp guns and it seems to work fine,good deal. i also picked up the motor saver #151690 which is supposed to be the best filter there is, BUT, being the dumbass i am, bought it before i read it, it says it does not fit the savage .21 eninge. so does it not fit the rr? anyway it can? damn. just found its supposed to be 3k,10k,1k will the 7k in the center be ok?

anything else i should get on my next hobby-shop trip?

[XJ667]

OOOPs try bargainrc on ebay. I just got one shipped to the house for $299.99

[NitroLightning]

In a couple months i plan on buying the Rb concepts Ws7 II for my pro. So i have a few questions

1. Can i fit a 17 tooth clutch bell, and which one? If you have a better setup idea let me know. I want to gear more towards top end while still retaining good accel.

2. Which pipe should i get?

3. I read that it is not a good idea to start it for the first time using a starter box. So what do i use since there is no pullstart?

4. Anything i should know about when assembling the flywheel, clutch bell and shoes to the crank.

5. Does anyone even recommend the rb engine for the pro?

Well thats all the questions that i have at the moment:)

[KandL Racing]

I probably can't answer your questions with certainty, but I just put a RB S7 in my HB (not WS7, just S7). I am using the the stock pipe with it for now and it's a monster. Not sure about the clutchbell, I put a mugen clutchbell on mine with mugen clutch (3 shoe w/ 1.00 springs).

I see no problem starting it with a box as long as the battery is fresh! And roll the flywheel back so the crank is free and has a bit of room to get up to speed before it hits TDC. And back it off by hand each time for the first few tanks, then it starts to get easier.

[Ooopps]

I went to to use the "Buy it Now" on Saturday for the one listed on Ebay, but it looks like you beat me to the punch. Anyhow I am still searching for a NIB Lightning Pro. Stormer is listing them as in stock, but they want a relatively high price for it.

John

[cbr74]

http://www.meganitro.com

Has LP's listed for $325. Might want to double check stock status with them.

[CRSMP5]

i am using ofna hardened cbs on mine.. BUt with the stock flywheel set up will require a ofna shim kit 5$ for the extension of the piolet shaft piece that comes int he shim kit..

or use a mugen flywheel set up, or even a hpi savage one, what im using, on it.. i had my ws7II modded to pull start.... so i can use it in my savage or buggy..

and i honestly will say try a 15 or 16t cb before a 17t.. the only engine ive used that can use a 17t or 18t cb is the picco 26 else the clutch slipps alot on take off..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

more noob q's

hey, im wondering how you fill the diffs... ive never filled any before. it looks as though the center diff just has one screw that i can undo without taking apart anything and fill it with. the front diff though i had to take apart the whole front end and then the diff just comes straight off of the chassis with a gaping hole at the bottom of the diff case. if the diff case is not screwed perfectly to the chassis wont the light 3k oil just drain out? so how do i fill the front one without it all leaking out once i try to re-attach it to the chassis. and i hear you fill it 3/4 of the way to the pinion gear... what is that?

[XJ667]

Oooops sorry man I got a faster button I guess. Email him thats the second or third one he had on in the last two weeks. I know Browns Hobby has them in stock you could try them they are I little shop in ohio. I talk to them on the phone and they told me he had two or three in stock. here there site. brownshobbyshop.com

[Ooopps]

Hear's who has them in stock...

1. Stormer - $370 + Shipping
2. Quantum Models - $380 + Shipping
3. I am still waiting to here from meganitro.com if they have any in stock, they have the best price at $325 + shipping.
4. I contacted bargainrc at Ebay, waiting to hear from him as well.

Can't wait to get one........

John

[RobertH]

1.) Has anyone found an adjustable engine mount that fits the Lightning? My son's OFNA buggy has an engine mount that lets the engine slide front to back so you can line the face of the gears up nice and even. That mount is mamoth though.

2.) I read about a wing mod a while back for the LP1, but I keep flipping through page after page and I can't find any info on it now. What can I do to keep my wing mount from shearing off?

3.) Can I buy that bigger radio box that you see on the LP2 yet? Does anyone know if it's a direct fit or not?

Thanks in advance,
RobH

[blemaxx]

for the wing mount i went with a Hyper 7 one and just used the parts that hold the wing. On my LP it was the part that broke the most. The hyper has screw down wings. All I had to do was make the screw slots a bit longer so they would line up on the LP wing mount parts that comes from the shock tower.

[Apis]

Spyder - in reply to how to change the diff oil.

You can't just unscrew the small single screw and let the oil drain out. This isn't like changing your oil in a car.

Dif oil get really dirty and you must take the diff apart and clean all the gears to get all the dirt out and off the gears.

The easiest way to get the center diff out is to unscrew the 4 screws that hold the diff to the chassis, remove the throtle and brake servo arm, and disconnect the throttle rod from the carb. Once the diff is seperated from the car, unscrew the 4 screws that hold the upper plate. Then unscrew the 4 screws that hold the spur gear to the diff. Remove all the gears and clean with degreaser, replace and fill with diff oil no higher then the T. Don't fill to the top or to the top of the gears. fill to the top of the T that holds the 4 gears.

To remove the front and rear diffs: unscrew the 2 screws that hold the front of the diff case and loosen the 2 rear screws. This will allow you to remove the front bumper. Now you can just unscrew the 4 screws that hold the front half of the diff case. Remove the 2 C clips that hold the lower suspension pins. If you have a sway bar, just unpop or unscrew the screws from the lower swing arm. It is easier this way then to unscrew the 4 small screws that hold the sway bar to the front of the diff case.

You don't have to remove the hole front end from the car. Just take the front half of the diff case off and pull the diff out. Do the same thing as the center diff to remove and clean the gears in the diff.

This is a good time to examine the wear on the gears and whether you need to shim the diff. Shimming consists of placing the big spacers behind the two big gears, not the 4 small gears. if after placing the big spacers, there is still play, then place spacers behind the 4 small gears. Don't place a spacer behind only one or two small gears. All 4 small gears must be shimmed or none.

Remember, HB dose not shim the 2 big gears, so you must place that shim behind to make the diff work well.

Also, you should clean and replace the diff oil at least every 45 minutes of racing. I replace mine every other race event. The reason for the frequent cleaning and oil replacement isn't because oil leaks from the diff, but because silicon oil isn't a lubricant. Grease lubricate the gears and cuts the heat and friction down, but silicon oil dosn't lubricate as well as grease.

I hope this helps and good luck.

[RobertH]

Maybe I've been lucky, but I didn't put any shims in my diffs. I just replaced the gears with the Kyosho gears and all was good. Thanks for the info.

Here is a Hot Bodies thread on the starting grid if you folks wants to take a read:

http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/backtalk/pistachio/read?conf=offroad6&csel=@1&item=12&rsel=all&noskip=1&showforgotten=2

[KandL Racing]

I am currently back to using HB's wing mounts, but I normal use Mugen MBX4 mounts, just the parts that mount the wing. They screw up to the wing struts fine. I lost the screws for my last Mugen mount, so had to put the HB's back on. But I have another set of Mugens now, so when the HB's break, I'll be ready.

On my diffs, I rebuild about every 4 races, haven't had to shim yet, but haven't really checked them, will do next time. I am still running stock gears in them, when time comes to replace them, It'll be with K7.5 gears.

[RobertH]

I should have posted this thread along with the last, but it has some more good info. This one is for 2003 where the last was the current 2004 thread.

http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/backtalk/pistachio/read?conf=offroad5&csel=&item=29&rsel=all&noskip=1&showforgotten=2

[RobertH]

OMG, you guys got totally slammed back in Jun and I bet you don't even know it:

Some people over at RCCA's
forum were complaining about breaking the wing mounts. You never know
with the posts their though because most of those guys are newbie
backyard bashers.


Taken from that last sgrid thread. LOL Laughing so hard that I have tears in my eyes. Man, the setup info and all the diff issues and the "flipper" thing on the back end -- it's all hammered out in that thread. I'm not done with it yet, but man is it a wonderful resource if you want to race your Lightning Pro!

[Ferrari_Spyder]

Thank you very much for all that info Apis, i really appreciate it.

so as long as im breaking it in/and practicing with the stock rr gears i think i will leave or keep putting grease so it lubricates the gears until i start racing and then i will buy the mp7.5 gears and use silicon.

[XJ667]

I got my Pro in the mail today. Only thing that bothers me is that its in a RR box with a pro sticker over top the RR. Anyone elses like that?

[Ooopps]

I read somewhere that is what they do. I would still check over the buggy to make sure that it is a Pro, and not a RR.

Still searching for one......might bite the bullet and order thorugh Quantum Models $379.00, still a descent deal for what you are getting. I emailed Sam at Potbellies, said he had some but is slow to respond to emails requesting more info.

John

[XJ667]

John,

I would look in to the one on the for sale board. Its a pro with everything to run. Hes only asking $325 for. Get some pics of it.

[Ooopps]

Saw it, it is an old thread that somebody resurected. Patience, I must learn patience.


Anyhow anybody have any setup information on the buggy, that is working good?

[CRSMP5]

stock set up i sgreat.. dont change anything till you try it.. i think you will be suprised..

pro yellow stripe on body, rtr pink stripe.. bu *** looks like a pro to me..

[cbr74]

That's a Pro. Yeah, HB went cheapo and used the same box for both the RTR and the Pro, the Pro just gets the cheesy "Pro" sticker.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Ooopps
I read somewhere that is what they do. I would still check over the buggy to make sure that it is a Pro, and not a RR.

Still searching for one......might bite the bullet and order thorugh Quantum Models $379.00, still a descent deal for what you are getting. I emailed Sam at Potbellies, said he had some but is slow to respond to emails requesting more info.

John

What other kind of info are you looking for?? I can get it from him (via a phone call) and let you know...Email me (k.bojar@att.net) and I'll get back to you

There is not a huge difference between the RR and the Pro unless you are a hard core racer...FOr the average driver/occassionaly racer, the RR kit will do fine and be competitive...I've actually been beaten by a STOCK RR a few times - I run a Pro with an OS RG in it...

But when you look at the $$ side of it...It just doesnt pay to get an RR - its not that the RR is a piece of crap and the Pro is gold, just that for the money the Pro is a better deal

[Ooopps]

I read on the starting grid that they changed a few things, but wasn't sure what was working.

Changes made:
1. Rear Block, change to get 3 degrees of rear toe in.
2. Drill out pistons to 1.4mm
3. Put stiffer springs, Kyosho Blues.
4. Also they noted that the rear shocks on the HB are a hair longer than the K2, I think same length as K3.
5. Diff settup: 5/10/1

K-Bojar - you got mail.

[luvmypro]

:) Just a note. I love this buggie. Just now getting used to driving it. I was use to my old Tmaxx. I hated that thing...seemed like I would run it for 10 minutes just to work on it for 2 hours. Anyway, I bought this car used for $250. I did pretty good considering the guy that had it put JR Racing Servos in (High Torque for the steering). I forget the speed of these things but they are Lightning fast. He put Savage gears (solid) in the diffs, all SS screws and re did the center diff. And I added a venom Failsafe (after it ran from me when my batteries died)
My buddy bought an OFNA Hyper 7 PCR the same day we picked this up, so while he was on vacation, I wanted something faster and bought the OFNA/PICCO .26...all I can say is WOW! The stock motor was quick compared to my old Tmaxx...but man this thing screams. Took a couple days to get tuned right..but hey, this thing stays running unlike my old maxx (stalls constantly..sold it on Ebay)
So I wanted to hey to everyone and kinda intorduce myself...now my question. What parts can you use off of the Kyosho MP 7.5 on the Lightning Pro. I'm mainly wanting the control arms, shocks, steering knuckles.

[Ooopps]

I saw on Ebay a Pro that had Front Kyosho Upper and Lower control arms. The knuckles I beleive are a direct fit.

I just ordered one today, SlamminSam, should have it by this time next week. My neighbor has a K2, when I get mine we are going to compare the two. Until then.

John

[luvmypro]

cool thanks..yeah, let me know what you find out. From pics, the arms look the same, but you know how that goes. And I'm not into modifying Alum arms to fit if they're not a direct fit...I screw up to much stuff doing that.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

my RR came with 2 degrees toe out...go figure:rolleyes:

but anyways

crsmp5 - i tried that WOT break-in on the rr engine and if i make it any more rich then it is, it wont stay running for more than 5 seconds and it is still super high rpm's...what exactly do i have to do to make it get low rpm's:confused:

[CRSMP5]

how about a hot plug like a mc59, and leving the glow ignitor on it.. it sounds as if the "stock plug" is much like a savage and med heat and loads up easily..

ive only done it on my rb ws7II and my hpi s-25.. and both times i had NO issues with the method..

[CRSMP5]

i think the lightning pro shocks are sweet.. all aluminum.. no need to improve them..

and there is a list somewhere on what other parts fit.. really need to finish the webpage set up i was making..

[Casey]

luvmypro - Here's some info on Lightning / 7.5 parts compatibility.

http://forums.maxxtraxxusa.com/showthread.php?t=2812

[Ooopps]

Finally found one...SlamminSam has them still!! Will receive mine on the 2nd of March. Anyone have advice for breaking the motor in when the temperatures are in the 30's outside?

Thanks

John

[CRSMP5]

any hints you hear on a 21bb from a hpi savage will work.. i brok emy old 21bb in the 30s.. just mak esure it gets to 200f, use a hot plug an dmak esure lots of oil comes from the pipe.

[brokenzipper]

I am about to paint a new body and want to know if anyone knows the colors that closely matches the purple and yellow on the lp. Something similar to blacktigers lp on page 54. Must be colors i can get in spray can from tower. Thx

[Blacktiger]

Hey, brokenzipper

I think the purple on mine was a Pactra Pearl purple. But not positive.

atm92484_3 from here on the boards painted it right before I bought the buggy from him. I'll ask him what colors he used and let you know.

[Blacktiger]

Ok, here is what he used.

2 shades of purple on that body. The main purple you see on the nose is Fasflourescent Purple by Parma and the purple on the lines and shading is Fascent Purple. Then the yellow was just Fasflourescent Yellow.

In a can, any flourescent yellow backed with white or silver will work and any sort of flourescent purple backed with a white will be pretty close.

[Blacktiger]

Oh, also got a couple tanks through the RB S5 so far. And all I can say is WOW! So far I am very impressed.

[TheGeneralG]

Ok I'm part of the HB Pro crowd now! Finally able to find time to start getting it ready for this seasons races. It's going to be the first time racing 1/8 buggies! Anyways I know this has probably already asked but I need to know what everyone is using for servo horns? My Pro did not come with any, thought it would have.... are the ones that Ofna offers good? Thanks

[CRSMP5]

your supposed to use the ones that came with your radio.. the ofna ones work great.. and stock hitech ones will work just as good if using a hitech servo

[burnouts]

i have just put the new novarossi 421b in my brothers buggy. we don't have a lot of 1/8ths where we race but if he finally learns to drive he will be impossible to catch. the track was slippery on sunday so it was close racing, apart from the 4 wheel 3 foot high rooster tails it was a honey to breakin and drive.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by XJ667
I got my Pro in the mail today. Only thing that bothers me is that its in a RR box with a pro sticker over top the RR. Anyone elses like that?

I just saw this today...Yes, HB did only put a sticker over the RR to make the BOX a pro...I guess they still had a large run of RR boxes when the Pro's came over and didnt want to waste them :confused: :D

[CRSMP5]

on ebay there is a pro up for grabbs i bid on it.. if anyone else wants it.. was not woth the original buy it now price.. but if someone bids 251$ on it it will be a 276$ lightning pro with servos shipped to your door.. :D if i win it ill have spare parts.. but i figure ill pass it on to someone else while the oppertunity is there..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

alright i think i MAY have an air leak in my engine. how do i tell for sure if i do:confused:

[luvmypro]

I was thinking up updating to the L2. Before I post on Ebay, I have a Lightining Pro Newer tires and rims, extra set of street tires and rims. Hardend gears in the diffs, 16t clutch bell, 3 shoe clutch, Picco 26 with about 3 quarts through it. All SS screws throughout. This car is in imaculate condition and is extremely fast. It smokes the OFNA Hyper 7 PCR off the line and at top end. Front shocks were just rebuilt and new oil. Also comes with the Roto Start. This car is ready for the tracks this spring. I'm looking to sale for around $500.

[thndrchckn93]

luvmypro, im interested in the buggy. What type of electronics does it come with? email me with pics at thndrchckn93@hotmail.com Thanks

[luvmypro]

if you have any other Q's on the Pro...email me at rtournay2000@yahoo.com:rolleyes:

[PhillyNitro]

Will the K2 or K3 Front sway bar fit a lightning RTR?
I just got a RTR super cheap.

[CRSMP5]

lightnign ones are under 7$ each.. so just buy them.. browns has them in stock also..

[luvmypro]

well, after looking at the difference in buggies, the MP 7.5, Hyper 7, and the new Pro2...I'm just going to keep my Pro instead of upgrading. Sorry to post it and take that back. Does anyone know if the servo tray for the Pro 2 will fit the regular Pro? or is it even worth changing? So...who here goes to Browns? I love going there...like a kid in a candy store every time. They're great people to deal with and they always have everything that I need. Sorry to get off of subject.

[cbr74]

The LP2 has some nice stuff... but I'm very happy with my L1 and see no need to replace it.

[luvmypro]

Question...my lower arms on my Pro seem to have a little play by the pins by the diff. I thought about replacing all of the lower and upper arms, but not sure if this is really needed. My concern is handling when it's time for the track. I'm new to this and I want to make sure this thing is handling the best that it can. Does anyone also have a setup sheet that seems to work well at their track? I mess around in light to semi rough terrain and our track has a couple small jumps with a triple in the middle that's about 2 1/2' high.

[XJ667]

My pro not even started yet and got a shinny new pipe for it. Ofnas Jammin pipe.

[CRSMP5]

i would not worry about the play in the control arms.. everything i own does.. even my menace pushing 70mph does..

if it does not fit the radio try.. you can always improvise and make it fit.. all i need is the servo mounts.. and i can do it myself..

look at all the plastic mounts though.. they do crack and cause slop..

[luvmypro]

:)

[blemaxx]

Hey anyone know if this will work on the pro?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3179007434&category=34063

[dc92]

Does anyine know if alluminum chassis brases for the Kyosho MP75 will work on the rr?

[NitroLightning]

I just bought $170 dollars worth of hop ups for my pro. They include

2 Kyosho Universal Center Drive Shaft Inferno MP-5: $49.98
2 sets of Kyosho Universal Swing Shaft MP-7.5: $85.98
4 tires: 21.98
4 rims: 17.98
1 oz tire glue
1 os mediem glow plug
- $15 for over $150 spent and only 3.99 for shipping:D

I was told that the shafts will not rust and that they are stronger then my stock ones. When you compare the price of 16.99 per to 24.99 per, they had better be alot better. After i get all this stuff installed, ill take some pics if people want to see it. I didnt have any problems with my stock setup, i just didnt care for the speculed rust on the shafts and bones.

I wanted to get the ofna wheel black hyper 7 rtr pro wheels, but tower told me that they would not fit. Does anyone know of any similar wheels to that, that would fit. They must be black. I would also like to by aluminum anodized purple radio posts. Does anyone know which ones to to get and were to get them? I am thinking about getting the mp7.5 diff gears, but i currently have no problem with my stock ones.

Has anyone else tried this setup, and what do you think of it?

[cbr74]

Tower is mis-informed. Any 17mm buggy wheel will fit the Lightning including any of those made by Ofna.

[CRSMP5]

dc.. once again.. look up the browns link.. they have the proper ones you know will fit in stock.. and they do not cost too much..

i have ofna wheels on mine.. and a set of kyosho ones.. so yep they will fit.. tower is wrong..

[NitroLightning]

Originally posted by CRSMP5
dc.. once again.. look up the browns link.. they have the proper ones you know will fit in stock.. and they do not cost too much..

dc...? what does that mean:confused:

[CRSMP5]

dc = dc92

i was just at browns tonight.. he has even more odd stuff now.. LOL.. ive needed a engine mount purpal plate that fastens to the chassis for a while now.. i have a cracked one.. no real issues with it.. just wanted new one for box for day it is a issue and he had them on the wall finally.. :D

[Ooopps]

I received my pro last Tuesday and broke the engine during the week. Question for someone who races, what is a good starting point for brake bias? More to the front, more to the rear? Equal?

Thanks

John

[cbr74]

You broke the engine already? Bummer. :p

I like to run with a little rear bias personally. I'm always coming into the corners too hot and it helps to be able to kick that rear end into a slide to make it around the corner.

[Ooopps]

LOL, sorry meant "broke in" the engine during the week, 3 tanks a night for 3 nights, 9 tanks in all. I figured a little bias towards the rear, to get the car to rotate better in tight turns.

My buddy brought his K2 over with an RB C5, the HB took it off the line but he pretty much blew me away at top end. Already craving more power.

Getting cold again in Michigan, sub 30's, guesse I'll take her apart and set the diffs up.

John

[72 510]

I ordered the parts to convert my LP1 frontend to a LP2 and replace worn parts, here's what I'll be picking up on tuesday.

C8005-1 F.R upper suspension arm 1 set $6.00
C8008 REAR WHEEL HUB L, R (LIGHTNING SERIES) $4.00
C8010-1 lower suspension arm set (I need 2 sets of these) $15.00
C8011-1 22 degree front hub carriers L,R $4.75
C8012 LIGHTNING UPPER SUSPENSION PIN SET, FRONT $2.25
C8013 LIGHTNING LOWER SUSPENSION PIN SET, REAR $3.25
C8014 LIGHTNING LOWER SUSPENSION PIN SET, FRONT $2.25
C8015 LIGHTNING LOWER SUSPENSION PIN SET, REAR $2.50
C8018-1 front upper turnbuckle 5X30mm $4.00
C8124 REAR UPPER SUSPENSION ARM (LIGHTNING SERIES) $5.45
C8134 Screw & Ball for upper arms $4.00


I also grabbed a Turbo II clutch and Racers Edge CNC Knuckles....

[Ferrari_Spyder]

i was breaking the car in and near the end i just barely clipped the edge of the sidewalk. i thought nothing of it, and i had to go, so i brought the car in to pack up. the suspension body snapped via the aluminum connecting rod(?)

sry dont know the names of anything. the suspension part where you fill with fluid snapped in half. what is it called?

okay i am thinking it is defective parts or can this stuff really break this easy?

anyways now i have an excuse to get the best shock-body i can get.

so wut should i get:confused:

[72 510]

thats very strange, you can either get the RTR replacement, Pro shocks or 7.5 shocks.

I would get a set of the Pro shocks, I really like them.

[gr8taz nitro]

cbr, I got a problem :( I finally got to run at the track with my new novarossi and to put it bluntly.... too much power!:D :D

even gearing up to a 14 tooth clutch bell I can't go WOT. I'm runnin 5k/7k/1k in my diffs and can't get the power to the ground. The track I run on is pretty much blue groove and I'm running brand new crimefighter XTR compound tires and the second I go WOT it's like I'm hydro-planing or something.

what do you think, go up another tooth?

[CRSMP5]

gr it sounds as if its a little stiff.. going up on the cb will make it faster on top end, it my take some of the power away on the bottom end, but the clutch will also start to slip the higher you go.

another thought is the clutch set up. what if you can set the clutch to grab before the engine spools up to help delay the power.. aka build in the clutch shoe slip idea..

all i know is my picco 26, 18t cb, it gets up to speed really fast.. the triick is to learn how to not use WOT unless in big areas.

[cbr74]

Yeah, go up another tooth. Also... you can dial back the EPA on your throttle to get it under control.

[72 510]

I would suggest better tires, I like the Losi Step Pins (silver) with Bomb one inserts for blue groove.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

hey guys i looked at the different shock sets, and i can't find the kyosho's but i found the lightning rr replacement i think

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3179165555&category=44028

i don't know which is shaft or piston but they don't picture the shock case?

is it not complete or do they just not show it or is it their in the picture

[72 510]

thats a rebuild kit, if you broke the body then you need the set.
C8104 is the RR front shock set

[Ferrari_Spyder]

erg..thats $26 :mad: any chance i can call hot-bodies and get a refund for defective parts?

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by NitroLightning
I just bought $170 dollars worth of hop ups for my pro. They include

2 Kyosho Universal Center Drive Shaft Inferno MP-5: $49.98
2 sets of Kyosho Universal Swing Shaft MP-7.5: $85.98
4 tires: 21.98
4 rims: 17.98
1 oz tire glue
1 os mediem glow plug
- $15 for over $150 spent and only 3.99 for shipping:D


Why did you spend so much on Kyosho parts??? HB makes a center shaft for the LP - which hasn't rusted yet on mine...and Besides, a real Pro comes with center universals....

Not too menion universals in the front and dog bones in the rear - which is the common set-up for 8th scale...even Kyosho sends they Kanai's out that way...and, I think, Degani ran the universals in the front/bones in the rear when he won the worlds....

[CRSMP5]

i agree on the kyosho parts cost.. some white lightning wax lube makes them not rust... and eliminates wear also.. i was turned onto this for my savage and will not look back..

hb vcds are like 35$ a set for front, and 15 for centers..

this past weekend i was at browns.. the pro on the shelf, used with electronics and a 1 gal old 8 port is down to 300.. the "excuse for selling it" is cannot get parts for it.. he keeps breaking shock ends, the side that goes into the control arms.. how many of you guys have broken one? its a part no one i know stocks.. and supposedly cannot be gotten even though there is a part number for them..

i ask cause i put a set on my savage with some nova mad shock towers.. i just like how durable they seem to be.. but now this has me worried.. never broken one..

the issue is the shaft is not thick like a kani or mugen.. its a 1/10th scale sized shaft.. so cannot use one of them to fix the issue..

now.. question what did you break on the aluminum shock body?? its the rtr lightning with the plastic/aluminum cap? and you broke the plastic part? the pro has aluminum caps.. and people sell a piggy back resivor top for them.. you could always upgrade the shock tops.. to either a pro, or something like piggy back..

[blemaxx]

Originally posted by CRSMP5

this past weekend i was at browns.. the pro on the shelf, used with electronics and a 1 gal old 8 port is down to 300.. the "excuse for selling it" is cannot get parts for it.. he keeps breaking shock ends, the side that goes into the control arms.. how many of you guys have broken one? its a part no one i know stocks.. and supposedly cannot be gotten even though there is a part number for them..

i ask cause i put a set on my savage with some nova mad shock towers.. i just like how durable they seem to be.. but now this has me worried.. never broken one..

the issue is the shaft is not thick like a kani or mugen.. its a 1/10th scale sized shaft.. so cannot use one of them to fix the issue..


I broke a few like two last year but now I went with the Racers Edge Alum. ends and have yet to have a prob. with them. They fit on my pro shafts with no prob.
http://store.racers-edge.com/catalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=product&id=1571
and
http://store.racers-edge.com/catalog/index.cfm?fuseaction=product&id=1572

[NitroLightning]

Originally posted by k_bojar
Why did you spend so much on Kyosho parts??? HB makes a center shaft for the LP - which hasn't rusted yet on mine...and Besides, a real Pro comes with center universals....

Mine does have the universal center and front cv's, but i need items that will not rust. My pro came in a box that had pro stickers over the RR writting. So, i checked out the whole car and its a pro. The fact is that i would rather fork the money out to get items that will not rust then having to wast time and energy relubing everything that may rust everytime that i may splash through a puddle. I also have an air compressor that i use to clean the car, but its not going to get all the water out.:rolleyes:

[Ferrari_Spyder]

cool, i called up hot-bodies and spoke to this real nice guy who got me a shock shaft that i should get in the next few days:D i realized i can't articulate, which is an especially annoying problem over the phone :mad:

so neways ill save a post and ask now...did anybody ever find out the shock fluid viscosity? if not then ill have to buy some stuff. i'd rather learn for myself how different viscosity/piston hole/spring tension affect the jumps and handling so instead of telling me what fluid i should slap in there, do you guys have any online resouces i can look at?

thanks in advance:p

edit: i got the shock shaft out of the shock body but how do i get it off of the little piece that connects to the lower suspension arm (whats it called, i need to learn 1 thing a day)

[blemaxx]

Just hold the shaft and un-screw the end off the shaft. For oil and things check this site out they have a bunch of stuff about 1/8 buggys
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/tip/shock.html

[Ferrari_Spyder]

the shaft broke right between the shock body and the thingy(that i dont know what it is called) and so the shaft is stuck in the thingy and i can't get it out

[blemaxx]

Originally posted by Ferrari_Spyder
the shaft broke right between the shock body and the thingy(that i dont know what it is called) and so the shaft is stuck in the thingy and i can't get it out

Ok I see so it broke in the shock end. Well I think you would have to drill it out then. Use a small bit so you don't make the hole bigger. The other thing would be just get new ends I put a link above to the alum ones I use. As CRSMP5 was saying they have a part # but can't get them. I called HB and the guy sent me 2 that he had laying around.

[cbr74]

I shoot all my CV joints and drive cups with a lil WD-40 after splashing around in the puddles. I've yet to have one rust. But hey... if havin over-priced Kyosho parts on your Lightning makes you happy... more power to ya.

[brokenzipper]

Isnt the shock ends yall are talking about just regular 6.8 mm ball ends. If so wouldn't these work http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000461676&I=LXT404&P=K

[HBLighting PRO]

Okay, so this weekend, i rebuilt my differentials (front and rear) with new gears. I take my car out for a day of running, and the rear differential blew. Its done this about 4 times already.

I haven't been on this board in a long time, so does anyone know how to solve this (i have the little gold shim installed and it helped, but it still blew). Theres gotta be something to fix this.

[Tim'sLosi]

Originally posted by HBLighting PRO
Okay, so this weekend, i rebuilt my differentials (front and rear) with new gears. I take my car out for a day of running, and the rear differential blew. Its done this about 4 times already.

I haven't been on this board in a long time, so does anyone know how to solve this (i have the little gold shim installed and it helped, but it still blew). Theres gotta be something to fix this.

Savage gears, Kyosho K2 gears OR Fiorini Torsens!!

[blemaxx]

I use the mp 7.5 gears now and shim I have yet to blow one with my 8port race/P5 I would get them.

[cbr74]

Is it just luck of the draw or what? I'm STILL on my stock original differentials and that 7 port Picco is by no means gentle.

[CRSMP5]

thanks for the link on the shock ends.. i think i need some..LOL.. :D even though mine are still great.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by NitroLightning
Mine does have the universal center and front cv's, but i need items that will not rust. My pro came in a box that had pro stickers over the RR writting. So, i checked out the whole car and its a pro. The fact is that i would rather fork the money out to get items that will not rust then having to wast time and energy relubing everything that may rust everytime that i may splash through a puddle. I also have an air compressor that i use to clean the car, but its not going to get all the water out.:rolleyes:

All the Pros come with stickers over the RR on the box...that's just the way HB packaged these buggies

As far as rusting, not sure where you heard the HB ones will rust, but I've run mine hard and good all last season - including thru some over muddy tracks - and never really made an effort to clean the thing top-to-bottom and do not have any rust....

But like cbr74 says, if you wanna spend the way over-priced amounts, then more power to ya :D

[blemaxx]

Anyone know who may have the pro2 wing mount 8006-1 in stock? I want to get one because it mounts the wing like the hyper 7 no more post with the body clips. Please let me know i would like to get one even if it's a local shop and I have to phone order. Thanks

[luvmypro]

Originally posted by CRSMP5

"this past weekend i was at browns.. the pro on the shelf, used with electronics and a 1 gal old 8 port is down to 300.. the "excuse for selling it" is cannot get parts for it.. he keeps breaking shock ends, the side that goes into the control arms.. how many of you guys have broken one? its a part no one i know stocks.. and supposedly cannot be gotten even though there is a part number for them..

i ask cause i put a set on my savage with some nova mad shock towers.. i just like how durable they seem to be.. but now this has me worried.. never broken one..

the issue is the shaft is not thick like a kani or mugen.. its a 1/10th scale sized shaft.. so cannot use one of them to fix the issue.. "

I was wondering about that...I was at browns lastweek and he sold me the shock ends and I came home, went to put them on only to find out they were the wrong size. the hole for the shock shaft was too big. So I just drilled out the piece of old shaft that was broke in the other one and had to use CA glue. It's rigged, but works fine and is holding so far. I bought the car used at browns, it had a lot done on it and the shocks don't even look like Pro shocks (purple caps). Whoever had it redid alot on it (Diff gears,center,Mugen Filters,JR Racing Servos) So, I'm not sure whatelse he did. I saw that Pro on the shelf. It seems it's in good shape...but why does he was $300??? I bought mine used there for $250 and it was in better shape and had alot more hop ups.

[luvmypro]

"Isnt the shock ends yall are talking about just regular 6.8 mm ball ends. If so wouldn't these work http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...=LXT404&P=K"


I may be mistaken, but those shock ends don'e have the lip on them. Wouldn't you rather upgrade to Aluminum...go to that link from Racers Edge. I may do the same next time I break one.

[brokenzipper]

i didnt need the shock ends but was thinkin they were the same.

Also found this maybe someone here will want it
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3180878376&category=19168

[CRSMP5]

well i stopped by my LOCAL one today.. and guess what.. they had 2 sets of shock ends on the shelf.. LOL.. i got them both..

know what.. they do not include the balls.. and are different shape then original.. buit for 2$ a bag.. i got both bags of 4.. we can say buck each and ill mail them to who needs a end.. ill only part with 4 of them though.. keepign a bag for my own..

a mugen wing mount will fit it.. and much nicer than the pro 2 i beleive.. not seen one of them to compair to yet..

[blemaxx]

so will the Mugen wing mounts fit on with no mod? They look like it but the Hyper 7 one I have on now had to be ground out a bit and thats why I want a new one. Let me know if it works as is please.

[72 510]

Originally posted by blemaxx
Anyone know who may have the pro2 wing mount 8006-1 in stock? I want to get one because it mounts the wing like the hyper 7 no more post with the body clips. Please let me know i would like to get one even if it's a local shop and I have to phone order. Thanks

HB doesn't have that part available yet.

I cut the stubs off mine and drilled them out for screws.

[HBLighting PRO]

1k/3k/5k right?

thats what i should put in the diffs? (rear to front)
i have the stock engine, but the difs in the rear blow, yet to find sutable gears. I need something hardened.

[cbr74]

HB recommends 5k/10k/1k. That's what I run... feels just right to me.

[72 510]

I run F/C/R 3/7/1

either the 7.5 or savage diff gears work well, the savage are strong but heavy, anything is better then the stock gears.

[luvmypro]

The shock ends my LHS sold me don't fit. The part number matches, but the hole for the shock end to go into are too big. Being that I bought this thing used, I'm not even sure if they are the stock shocks. They have a brownish gray alum body, purple alum caps, and yellow springs. I just drilled out the old broken off shaft and stuck some CA glue in there and screwed in the new shaft. It held....so far.
Same on the wing mount...it was there when I got it and nothing was ground down on it, but it does screw in.
Again...same thing on the diffs, it has the Savage gears in it, I have a new Picco 26 on it and by no means am I easy on it. It's holding up good.
A question I have, will the Front upper and lower and rear control arms off of the MP 7.5 mount directly up on the Pro? I'm not into modifying if I can help it, especially aluminum. But I want aluminum arms and wasn't sure if they are a direct fit. If anyone knows FOR SURE, please let me know. And if I change that to aluminum, is there any need to replace anything else?

[CRSMP5]

:D i have a picco 26 on my original diffs.. i have not looked at my shock ends yet.. still sitting in plastic bag, and i myself have that same wonder.. expecially since they lacked the balls..

[blemaxx]

I got a set from Browns sometime back and they had the right part # also but when I went to use them I had the same prob. with the hole. I know the sent me the right # so it wasn't Browns fault.

[HBLighting PRO]

one thing i know for sure is the savage isnt right,

it has 2 little pinion gears, whereas, the lightning has 4 little pinion gears....

[72 510]

thats why you get 2 sets for each.

[CRSMP5]

savage ones =6$ for 2.. so 12$ a set for one diff.. look at the cost of the others.. 12-18 for one set.. you still save money.. :D

[HBLighting PRO]

tower has the gears for $5 a piece.

and how are you going to put four in there? the spindle that holds the small pinion gears needs to be cut in the center so it can mesh together properly.....this car sucks...i hate wating two weeks for parts to come in...LHS doesnt carry parts...

[charlesd]

You can use the existing pins or get the kyosho pins to make a 4 gear spider.

The hpi savage comes with only 2 gears in the differential, it's quite a popurlar hop-up to do a 4 gear spider mod on the truck. I myself did it on my Hpi savage and it works great. The kyosho pins are a perfect fit.

[charlesd]

I forgot to mention that the hot bodies diff's are exactly the same as the hotbodies lightning. You can actually grab a diff and just put into either vehicle.

[CRSMP5]

well for as many parts as ive needed.. 4 wing mounts, i have had no need to have spares.. BUT i do own spares for a jut in case happens.. but im also lucky and i fi drive a hr i can pretty much build a whole one from parts on the wall..

[brokenzipper]

Im about to make my first engine purchase for my pro. My question is do i need to get a high dollar .21 or a cheaper .25 or .26. I do want lots of power(for the money ofcourse) but mainly for bashing and maybe a club race with no engine rules.
Do i really get more power with this .21 vs this .25 to make it worth the money. thx

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3181225826&category=49215

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3177773734&category=34062

[charlesd]

Just to mix you up, i propose a Hyper 21 8 port also . A very good engine for 139$. I have one in a savage and my lightning. Lots of power and good top end.

I don't have the .25 force installed. I have one brand new but never used it so i cannot comment on it just yet. By the way you can get the Force .25 for 109$ here: http://www.robsrchobbies.com/


You cannot go wrong with an rb concept. Everyone i know who has one, loves their engine.

Out of the two you mentionned, i would go for the RB.

[72 510]

first buy a bumpbox if you don't have one, then go buy a S5 or S7, why waste your money on cheap motors that don't hold a tune and run hot, just buy the best the first time.

I speak from experience as I've owned almost every motor under $400.

[blemaxx]

I would go with the RB out of the 2 but what type of track you run on will help with your pick. Also I would look into the REXp5 that's the one I went with and I love it! I had a Ofna 8port race and I still use it for back up but if I had to have just one it would be the Rex.

[72 510]

the only problem with the P5 is the parts supply, the RB parts are everywhere.

[blemaxx]

This is true but at my track the owner also use a P5 that's why I got it. That's one reason why I said to go with the RB.

[CRSMP5]

my rb ws7II is in my savage at this time..

the force 25 will require mods to drop in.. the motor mount holes are in the wrong place..

as soon as the rb 28 comes out my rb from savage goes into buggy, and the 28 in savage..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

you could try the wasp .26 - ive heard good things about it and its not too expensive

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEKX2&P=0

or the dynamite mach 26

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3181455364&category=19168

[brokenzipper]

The track ive only seen once and id say its medium size but this engine will mainly be for bashing around different places as i only plan to race once or twice just to see what its about. I would like an easy to tune no hassle motor with more power than my stock .21. I love the ease of use out of my stock motor but just no umph.lol Thx for the replys and for the info about the .25 not fitting without mods.

[CRSMP5]

i picked up a pro 2 today.. i will do a compairison on the parts.. but i need to sell the pro 1.. :rolleyes: or my menace.. which would be more wise..

225$ shipped, sold as a roller with a new clear body (not even cut out) and original tires/wheels and wing... will need engine and electronics, will include stock pipe, header, motor mounts, 3 shoe clutch and flywheel if you have a lightning rtr this is the deal of the year for ya..

i just went thru this buggy and changed shock oils, has ofna hyper 7 rear shocks, and rtr hb front shocks (i had pirated the stock ones for my savage) includes misc spare parts like wing mount, c hubs and hardware for them.. some say those are common items.. still on the originals..

used jr xr3 radio and receiver channel 88 75$ shipped

IF you would like to combine the radio and buggy, 300$ shipped will include free pre installed servos.. just a standard one fo rthrottle, and i have been usign a stock savge one for steering, has never broken in the buggy.. but the case is wearing out and allowing sloppy steering.. but it will be good to use for some time..

now if you want it fully rtr, i have a picco 26 in this thing at the moment.. for 75$ more, 375$ value it will come ready to race with a 14t cb.. want to talk about insaine.. this is the deal for you.. i have LOTS of pics posted in this hb thread else the picco is not for sale.. only avaiable in the 375$ package..

[CRSMP5]

picked up a pro 2 today.. so here we go with lotsa pics.. so we know the differances..

http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/1.jpg
the engine mount plates are ALOT beefier
http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/2.jpg
new front suspention
http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/3.jpg

http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/4.jpg
[he rear is missing the cut outs in the ball ends
http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/5.jpg
http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/6.jpg
Lookie. aluminum arm braces...
http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/7.jpg
the wing mount is NOT anything special
http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/8.jpg

[CRSMP5]

for the wider tank, they moves th front chassis brace
http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/9.jpg

http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/10.jpg
http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/11.jpg
http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/12.jpg
http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/13.jpg
http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/pro2/inital/14a.jpg

[CRSMP5]

on top of those visual changes, it has hardened diffs, 3.5mm shock shafts, rubber sealed bearings..

the white springs are also alot stiffer then the stock original yellow ones..

i see where you can bolt pro 1 suspention to this with no issue, it uses the same steering nuckles, the upper/lower arms and c hub is the only differance

the tank looks bigger.. i need to measure out the amount of fuel still though.. but to use the pro 2 tank in it the front anti flex rod needs moved, no room to do that on the 1st unless you change radio set up, to pro 2, and get th epro 2 bellcrank brace with additional hole..

the engine plates the mounts sit on are ALOT id say 2x as thick

the wing mount.. honestly the kani is still better.. the only differance is the part the wing affixes to, and its weaker, has nuts on the bottom of the bolts, but it does look nicer than the clips

comes with the same tires on dish wheels as the original pro 1

the body is a piece of art.. it is very nice.. i cannot say ill use it til i can get some clear ones..

the pro 1 body will fit it, but requires mods for the steering link, has a big cut out for it.

the pipe bash gaurd is cheesy

the chassis is the same, with a few additional holes in it.. has the original pro 1 locations still in it though..

why did i get it... honestly.. for the viewers.. i saw one, the mods they did were a good reason, i like the aluminum suspention holders, the tank looks much bigger, and i was sick of th eno posting pics of it.. so now there is pics posted on the web of the changes..

ive also dropped my hpi s-25 in it for now with a 14t cb.. need to learn how this one drives vs the other before i drop the rb ws7II in it.. :D

but there a nice review on the pro 2 finally.. hope you all enjoyed it..

[CRSMP5]

now you all know how the book has images of parts with part #s..

here are a few FYIs i doubt any one knew..

there is a rtr 2... yep.. there is.. comes with a white/yellow flamed body.. take the red/pink away and gain the yellow color..

24500 shock caps for the rtr
24501 shock caps for the PRo versions, 100% aluminum
c8128 shock top/end set this i bet has the proper shock ends..
c8104-2 3.5mm front shocks
c8105-2 3.5mm rear shocks
c8133 new body clear
c8133-1 the rtr2 body
c8133-2 pro 2 body
c8137 CNC engine mount
c8138 CNC fix mount of tuned pipe
c7005 4mm engine mount

the CNC stuff has me interested.. the mounts look sweet and have built in coolign fins.. the pipe mount i want to see one of..

but i figured with the shock issues we have had in the past.. the fact they are now making a kit for stuff like that that the part numbers would help out original lightning owners..

[72 510]

I already upgraded my LP1 frontend to LP2 parts, same with the rear arms.

I like it :D

[Ferrari_Spyder]

hey im going to the lhs later today and im compiling a list of stuff i need (its kinda far away)

anyways you all know my shock shaft snapped and i drained all the shock fluid out. so im in need of shock oil.

i dont know what wt because i can't compare to anything so heres my track:

http://dirtburners.org/index.aspx?tabindex=5&tabid=9

dont know if that helps any but so what wt should i have front/rear?

what is a bluegroove track

sry for the noob q's

[72 510]

I would try 35 front 30 rear.

blue groove is when you have a hard packed clay the tires start to lay down a layer of rubber creating a blue looking lane down the track.

its the best traction surface, we run Losi taper pins at the indoor tracks becuase of the high traction.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

so my track is prolly blue-groove during the spring after in rains and hard-packed, and in the summer when it all dries up its not

so like the stock hotbodies ones during the spring and proline knuckles during the summer:confused:

[72 510]

knuckles suck, ask the guys at the track what they run and use those.

[CRSMP5]

try the stock pro tires.. IMo they worked great.. im glad i got another set for this year.. :D

[brokenzipper]

Hey Spyder Im also from St Louis and will race that track altleast once this year with my pro. Where around here are you getting parts for your buggy. I also will be building a small track with a skidloader if your local enough and wana bash let me know.

Also for everyone else i started a small webpage for some pics of mine and some buddys stuff if anyone wants to check it out.
http://www.freewebs.com/brokenzipper/index.htm

[brokenzipper]

I decided to go with the hyper 21 8 port. Is there any thing else i need to make this work, like new clutch bell or some mods. If a clutch bell will this work.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLJ6&P=7

[charlesd]

If you can, get the vented clutch bell from racers edge. It comes with bearings and is an excellent clutch bell. Helps keep the temp down. You'll find some on ebay for 9$.

Apart from that, it's a direct bolt in and a major improvement over the Hot bodies .21.

[CRSMP5]

i use ofna vented clutch bells, they are hardened, come with bearings, BUT if your running the stock flywheel it will require a ofna shim kit cause one of th epiolet shaft adapters will be required... if your using a savage style flywheel then just shims required..

[Booyah]

Originally posted by brokenzipper
Im about to make my first engine purchase for my pro. My question is do i need to get a high dollar .21 or a cheaper .25 or .26. I do want lots of power(for the money ofcourse) but mainly for bashing and maybe a club race with no engine rules.
Do i really get more power with this .21 vs this .25 to make it worth the money. thx

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3181225826&category=49215

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3177773734&category=34062


Get the RB...you will love it I promise! One of the easiest motors to tune period...and tons of power. Case closed:D

[Ferrari_Spyder]

Originally posted by 72 510
knuckles suck, ask the guys at the track what they run and use those.

uhmmm... since when do knuckles suck? they are used on maybe 60% of the cars run here. i dont doubt that the pro tires are good, but i may as well go with what others are going with.

brokenzipper youre pm'ed

so im absolutely broke right now, and i don't have any shock oil. is there any oils that i can use just so i can get out to the track? like i mean anything better than air would be good, and i can run.

anyway, for when i do get shock oil, do i have to clean anything or just dump it in 95% full so i can fit the shock cap on?

hotbodies never shipped the shock shaft that they said they would, so i had to spend all my dough on some ofna shock shafts and shock ends.

how am i still excited about rc?:rolleyes:

[Ooopps]

So I have my clutch all apart and noticed that one of the shoes is broken.

1. Can I use Ofna shoes? or do I have to use there flywheel CB etc?

2. Fironi Sliding clutches any better? If I am gonna spend money on replacement parts I wanna replace them with something better so I do not have to worry about it.

3. Recommendations on clutches?

Thanks

John

[charlesd]

You can use almost any shoe. The size is pretty much standard.

As for the rest -- what is better and all that -- I'll leave that to someone else. I'm not a clutch Expert.

[cbr74]

Ran my LP with the Craddock brakes today. Definitely didn't need to put duals on... oh well. Had to turn down the EPA on my brakes about 16% to make them manageable. They grab very hard and very quick.

May just be my imagination... but it sure seems to feel snappier off the line now.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by cbr74
Ran my LP with the Craddock brakes today. Definitely didn't need to put duals on... oh well. Had to turn down the EPA on my brakes about 16% to make them manageable. They grab very hard and very quick.

May just be my imagination... but it sure seems to feel snappier off the line now.

Cool...I've been looking at them :D Was thinking about dual front & rears on my Pro...

I could live with having to dial OUT brakes :D Especially since most of the time it aways feels like you need MORE brakes :D

[Ooopps]

Thanks Charles, I found what I was looking for at another site.

Here is what I found as a good clutch setup:

Kyosho 1.1mm Springs
Aluminum Shoes
Racers Edge Vented Clutch Bell

Didn't find alot of information the sliding clutch.

John

[charlesd]

I found some more info on clutches here:

http://www.twf8.ws/new/home.htm

Lots of cool tips and info on this guys site.

[cbr74]

k_bojar... you put dual Craddock's on your LP like I have... I guarantee you will not be at a loss for stopping power.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by cbr74
k_bojar... you put dual Craddock's on your LP like I have... I guarantee you will not be at a loss for stopping power.

Cool...that's what I'm looking for :D:D

[cbr74]

You'll also like the drop in rotating mass... these Craddock's weigh zilch. All 4 of them weigh less than one stock brake disk.

The Craddock's don't require the composite brake pads.. just the steel calipers.
If you re-use the original calipers... a good sharp razor blade takes the pads off fairly easy.

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by cbr74
You'll also like the drop in rotating mass... these Craddock's weigh zilch. All 4 of them weigh less than one stock brake disk.

The Craddock's don't require the composite brake pads.. just the steel calipers.
If you re-use the original calipers... a good sharp razor blade takes the pads off fairly easy.

Sweet!! It'll give me a project once I finish my move into my new house :D

[atm92484_3]

Could someone with a manual post the part number for the throttle/brake linkage and center splash guard? Also does anyone have the manual posted online? I've searched but I couldn't find anything.

-thanks

[Blacktiger]

I could use a copy of the manual as well for the L1.

[CRSMP5]

many many pages back is a link to the manual.. hmmm

c8112 is the parts/screw bag, like 7$ browns has them on the wall..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

yay! i finally got it running again yesterday

in one day i quadrupled my rc car career

so, the plastic pin on the wing mount broke and i was running wingless for half the day. do i replace the pin, the side bracket, or the whole wing mount for the mugen one?

the tuning is being weird. it was getting too hot, 130* clesius and i had barely run for a minute, so i richened it up, but then i got lazy proformance, and it took till the end of the straitghaway for the rpm's to get up. it might be because this fuel gallon is nearing in on 1 year. i probably doubled the crashes on the track that day. im going to blame half of those on the lack of power and poor steering. i need a new servo:eek: but i dont have the cash anymore! from the one hour or less i had with the ofna 9.5 on the track is seems more agile and less stable. tends to nosedive in the air. wasn't getting much traction, but that will fix when it starts absorbing some rain. there is absolutely no wear on the tires!

but omg! i came in for a pitstop and the air filter had come off! it mightve been off for the whole tank, i dunno. how bad is this for the engine? i opened it up and cleaned it out, lubed it with ARO. with the plug on i cant turn it over. so it migh be fine. this dubro filter is absolute crap! i opened it up, and there was not a speck of anything it had caught! and i no there was dirt, dust in the fuel.
also one of those plastic thingies had connects both front suspension arms had broken. but that was okay, because the car came with 4 extra of those. also when i spin the tires there is this sandy, gritty sound coming from the front and rear differencial(or close to it.) i cleaned out the wheel bearings but not the ones on the opposite side of the shaft.

ive only used it for 3 hours and im craving more power!:mad:

[CRSMP5]

F_S your post is all jumbled up..

the pin breaking off means buy wing mount set up, if you rpoor the stock one is 5$, the mugen is 20$....

the rest of it is jibberish..

you need to pull the engine 100% apart and clean it..

the steering issue ill gues you mean the servo stripped gears, but no idea,

the crunch crunch sounds bad.. should not..

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by cbr74
You'll also like the drop in rotating mass... these Craddock's weigh zilch. All 4 of them weigh less than one stock brake disk.

The Craddock's don't require the composite brake pads.. just the steel calipers.
If you re-use the original calipers... a good sharp razor blade takes the pads off fairly easy.

OK silly question...WHere did you get your Craddock's at?? The place that I knew that used to sell them no longer do...

Or do you have a web addy?

thanks

[Saboteur]

Anyone just use the RTR buggy for just horsing around? I'm trying to see what rc to sell next and purchase the RTR. Gonna ditch the radio and rx, as well as the glow starter and get a rechargable one. How loud is the vehicle with the stock pipe setup? Not to sound so picky but I have respect for noise around my area. If its louder than my stock sport NT, I'll change the pipe. I'm the manager and creator for the RC Club we have going on here and trying to get some races going on when the weather gets nice. Would like to run an 8th scale along side with my friends "ancient" buggy. :)

[CRSMP5]

i have a pro roller for sale.. just needs a engine and electronics.. shoot me a pm..

i bought the pro2.. so its just sittign looking for a new home..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

Originally posted by CRSMP5
F_S your post is all jumbled up..

the rest of it is jibberish..

how is it jibberish if you answered all the questions? i dont understand:confused:

i pulled the whole rear diff out and disected it - oooooooooh stuff:D

so im gunna clean it out, wipe all the gears clean with some denatured alchohol, the dry them, put it back together and fill with silicone without adding grease to the gears inside?

so im too lazy to search back and find the mugen part # - anybody know it offhand?

i did not see any sign of sand or grit in the diff so i dont know what is goign on:confused: :mad:

am i the only one that takes more than an hour getting to the rear diff and disecting it? and i havent even filled it with diff oil and put it back together:eek:

the steering servo has always been bad, i dont think it stripped, its just really, really, bad

and it gunna take another hour for me to figure out how to take the engine all apart

well i learn stuff atleast -shock, diffs, drivetrain, a-arms etc i all know what they do now from taking them apart and investigating:p

well later its gettin to be beddy time:o

[k_bojar]

Originally posted by Saboteur
Anyone just use the RTR buggy for just horsing around? I'm trying to see what rc to sell next and purchase the RTR. Gonna ditch the radio and rx, as well as the glow starter and get a rechargable one. How loud is the vehicle with the stock pipe setup? Not to sound so picky but I have respect for noise around my area. If its louder than my stock sport NT, I'll change the pipe. I'm the manager and creator for the RC Club we have going on here and trying to get some races going on when the weather gets nice. Would like to run an 8th scale along side with my friends "ancient" buggy. :)

8th Scales in general are noisy - be it the stock RTR pipe or an aftermarket pipe...I wouldnt recommend one around at 10 pm or something like that :D A .21 engine will ALWAYS be louder than a .12/.15 in a sport RTR truck :)

And I hope, for your friend's sake, that his "ancient" buggy is an 8th scale or else he might be picking up the pieces if you "accidently" hit him or something, which would suck :( :)

[cbr74]

OK silly question...WHere did you get your Craddock's at?? The place that I knew that used to sell them no longer do...

They're being marketed by Racer's Edge... RcBoyz can get them for you. The ones for the Hyper 7/MP 7.5 fit the LP, part # RE C010.

[CRSMP5]

this is from a different forum on th esavage that i made up.. it shoudl give a idea and walk thru on how to take apart the 21bb..

why i would make this.. simple.. the rb in the how to build a engine is of a different design, picco, xtm 24.7 8 port are of that style.. this one will allow for the internals of a force engine to be seen and a few questions answered..


http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/1.jpg
First off, remove the 3 screws (some are 4) to remove the pull start/roto start

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/2.jpg
pull the 1 way bearing off (some are just a hex shaft, like picco, 8 port, wasp, xtm24.7 for example)

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/3.jpg
time to remove the head, loosen the bolts in a X pattern and take it off

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/4.jpg
the head button under the head, just lifts off

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/5.jpg
headshims and head button, on the s-25 there are 2 shims, DO NOT damage them

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/6.jpg
loosen the carb pintch bolt and remove the carb

[CRSMP5]

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/7.jpg
if you turn the flywheel, A the piston sleve will life out on a new engine, grab it gently and slide it out. on a used engine it may require heating the block up to get it to slide out

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/8.jpg
take the back plate off. the 1-4 is to denote the x pattern used to loosen and tighten it up. use the same pattern on the head bolts.

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/9.jpg
the NIKE swoosh i speak of. next time it comes up as "i hear a click in my engine" this is the part that makes the click sound. the spring loaded pin sits in it and moves up and down...

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/10.jpg
grab the little pin with some pluers and take it out. next i used a allen wrench 1.5mm is perfect fit, to remove the spring...
http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/11.jpg

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/12.jpg
with the rod all the way up slip the rod end off the crank gently with NO force..

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/13.jpg
the line in the rod faces the crank, it supplies oil to the bushings of the rod.

[gr8taz nitro]

somebody's selling cradock brakes on ebay, $9 for a set of two free shipping.:D

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3182916774

[CRSMP5]

well today i threw on my street tires on the new pro2.. and took it for a spin.. i did 3 tanks of figure 8s to break in the diffs at different speeds and loads.. it seems to have some massive over steer under power.. so i redid my adjustments.. hope the rain stays away so i can see if i can get some of the push out of it..

NOW if i spiked the brakes at the turn.. then got on it it would not understeer as bad..

[Saboteur]

Originally posted by k_bojar
8th Scales in general are noisy - be it the stock RTR pipe or an aftermarket pipe...I wouldnt recommend one around at 10 pm or something like that :D A .21 engine will ALWAYS be louder than a .12/.15 in a sport RTR truck :)

And I hope, for your friend's sake, that his "ancient" buggy is an 8th scale or else he might be picking up the pieces if you "accidently" hit him or something, which would suck :( :)


Well for sure we won't be out there late at that time. We normally bash during 12pm-4:30pm. He owns a Mirage Vspec from Thunder tiger btw. Its their old 1/8th RTR claimed to hit 60mph I believe. Only a little bit louder than my truck though and surely doesnt get the run time I do. :D

[RCILaser]

As far as getting Cradock Brakes both atomic motorsports and advantage racing products carry them atomic motorsports is in Jacksonville Florida and advantage racing products is in Utah you can go to their web site and order them
now for a report on the handling characteristics of the Pro2 . I have been running the Pro2 from the very first day of release and compared to the Pro1 is a completely different car . I find that the car has a tremendous amount of steering , both on power and off power compared to the Pro1 and I thought the Pro1 had a lot of steering. I have been running the car straight out-of-the-box to get a feel for the car . I have begun to make changes to the setup . I went through the diffs and replace the oil that came in them with 3000 in the front, 7000 in the center, and 1000 in the rear . What came in the car was real close to that. The new diff gears are fantastic. No metallic in the oil at all and when I rebuilded them they were smooth, not like the old gears at all. Everything on the car is holding up find and I been running it hard for about five or six weeks have. I noticed that the car takes the jumps a little bit different than the old ones . I adjusted the wing angle and it came around. I do have one area of concern and that is with fuel tank the car has a tendency to act like the tank is empty when there still is a quarter of a tank of fuel in it. To prove what I suspect is wrong, I am going to replace the tank with a Pro1 tank, and by putting the Pro1 tank in I will be able to install an additional front brace why, because I can! My first impressions of the Pro2 is that it is a new car and will require a new driving style. I can go into the corner much harder and deeper than I did with the Pro1 . I will report back about that tank unit after this weekend as we have a three-day race coming-up on a very unusual layout . you can take a look and see the layout by going to www.thercpit.com

The old man of racing Robert Rienhardt

[CRSMP5]

well i was on blacktop.. with street tires.. but i need to try new setting tonight if it stays dry... i have not run mine enough to notice the tank issue though.. :rolleyes: but since the tanks hold the same amount of fuel.. will not matter as far as that if it is a issue..

[RCILaser]

My feelings are that the new tank with its my low-profile is not holding fuel around the pickup in hard turns . and when you come out of the turn it runs out of fuel and you have a flameout to see it my theory is right . that is why I'm going to change to the Pro1 tank and besides , if I use the Pro1 tank . I can put in a second front brace . it really doesn't need it . just make everybody think

The old man of RC racing

[Blacktiger]

Here are some current pics of my Lightning.

Just painted up the body this past week.

Paint Used:
Parma - Fasblack, Fasyellow, Fasorange, Faswhite, and Faspearl Purple.
Pactra - Clear Metal Flake, Pearl Purple, Sprint White, Indy Silver.
Alclad - Chrome.

Running the new RB S5 and a new set of Pro-Line Crime Fighters.

http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/CrowdPleazerDone1.JPG
http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/CrowdPleazerDone2.JPG
http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/CrowdPleazerDone3.JPG
http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/CrowdPleazerDone4.JPG

Body all cut and mounted.
http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/CrowdPleazerMounted1.JPG

[gr8taz nitro]

short of being able to physically look at them, is there any way to tell the LP1 chassis from the RR chassis? I know the LP1 chassis is harder than the RR but are there any visual differences to tell them apart from a picture?

thanx

[CRSMP5]

why not find a pro2 chassis? if your goign to buy one get the one with new holes for the new radio set up..

if i have a oppertuity to hit th eLHS tomarrow ill look at the rtr version to see if there is a differance over the pro 1..

if i had to guess.. the aluminum finish is hat will be different.. i think the rtr is not as smooth a finish.. aka can see the machining marks via lines/grooves the aluminum i ssupposed to be different.. aka 6061 vs 7075..

[charlesd]

Blacktiger,

Nice paint job. I did a new body for mine also. (i'm a terrible painter) -- i'll post some pics later on today. It's not as well painted as yours but it looks good from far.

[CRSMP5]

well new settings mkes it corner lot better.. i got lot of the push out of it..

now i wonder if it will be dry this weekend so i can go race it.

[Blacktiger]

Thanks charlesd, Can't wait to see the pics of yours.

[brokenzipper]

Okay i decided to put the oil in my pro 1's diffs, when i pulled the rear diff apart i noticed that there was no seal or washer in the diff. part #c8021 in the manual. I have not pulled the others apart yet but im assuming not in there either. Do i need these to put 3/7/1 in them or not. If so where can i get them. Any popular buggy use the same seal.

[CRSMP5]

look real good at the ring gear aka metal gear with 4 screws, i bet ya its stuck to it.. :p

[brokenzipper]

boy do i feel stupid, Ya it was there. Thx for the help

[CRSMP5]

dont feel bad.. ALOT of people miss it.. savage and lightning it gets overlooked..

[charlesd]

Here's mine. Sorry for the bad pic quality.

As stated, i'm not a very good painter but i'm quite happy with the result.
http://www.savageshockcovers.com/hb1.JPG
http://www.savageshockcovers.com/hb2.JPG

[brokenzipper]

wow nice job, I like the bling,bling with the wheels

[Blacktiger]

Looking good charlesd. Looks like you did just fine to me. :)

[tofufar]

hey there all

Ive been trying to read through a good part of this and its been really informative.. but just one question...

Its been covered but I never did see anything decisive... what is a substitute wing mount that can be put onto the lightning rr buggy? (if one exists) The Hot bodies one is wayy too fragile and exploded after only a few rolls. Would the kyosho one work? I know I read that the Mugen rr is mountable but a few opinions on the best setup would be greatly appreciated for the best wing and wingmount combo. thanks a bunch.

(wish i could fab one like geoboy =)

-Lawrence

[2000zr]

Has anyone tried a torsen in a lightning pro in either center or front or both just wondering how it changes the handling characteristics

[NitroLightning]

could someone give me the links on tower hobbies site for all the mp7.5 tranny rebuild. I have never had any problems with the transmission but i know that eventually i will have to rebuild it. I heard that kyoshos mp7.5 tranny is the best and toughest. But i do not know what all i need to complete the rebuild. So i would greatly appreciate links to all the pieces needed. Thanks :)
Also, i posted not to long ago about the hop-up that i was doing to my buggy. Everything fits perfect except for one thing; the hub pins that hold the hub to the universal shaft is i hair thicker then kyoshos. In order to complete the hop-up, i had to purchase the mp7.5 hubs. They come with pins. I could have bought the pins seperately but then the hub would be a hair lose on the universal. The whole idea was to make it solid, getting rid of the slack to minimize power lose, and plus i dont like rust so i bought universal that will not rust. After i bought the hubs, everything went right together and now my car looks beautiful. :D (all i need now are the ofna 9.5 black rims)

[CRSMP5]

why not wait and see when the lightning pro2 diffs can be gotten or even savage diff stuff?

the wing mount is a mugen, i dont have the part # though...

i got to race the new pro 2 today... 11 buggies, new track, and the only thing ive run the pro2 on was pavement..

how did i do.. with absolutly no practice with it on the new track either

1st heat ran out of gas, no tank issue at all so far by the way
2nd heat ran out of gas again
due to 2 dnfs i start in Bmain ok, 6 buggies counting myself.. come in 1st.. but once again run out of fuel in the last 25ft but i was 2 laps ontop of the field..

due to 1st place in B main i get bumped up to 6th in a main.. ok sweet get to run once more..

ok race starts.. i take the lead.. kinda sweet... traffic catches up to me, i only have a hpi s-25 in it with a 14t cb, get stuck in accedent with usless turn marshel, but for the track i got it on take off for the multi changes in the track, that include patches of brick driveway, pavement, gravel, dirt and grass, 1 turn on gravel, 1 on the bricks, wanna talk about a challange to drive.. i ended up in 2nd with 17 laps, 1 lap behind the leader, i flipped it 2x on a bad section, but rest of field was 14 and under..

im very pleased with it.. i just wish i had the pro1 there to compair how the 2 handle on the multi surface track..

[kyoshofan420]

Everyone's buggies are looking pretty good. I wish I could figure out how to post pictures of my own buggy. I will try to later today or this week. I had a question to everyone. Has anyone tried to convert the L1Pro to a laydown steering setup? I wanted to buy a sheet of carbon fiber and try to get it done. Would it be worth it or should I not bother? I just want to know how much a difference a laydown steering servo and a carbon fiber radio tray make. Thanks in advance :)

[CRSMP5]

the lp2 has a aluminum radio tray..

the body needs major mod to fit the servo saver to the pass side.. look at the lp2 pics for a idea.. and honestly its probally a waste of time.. but whats a few grams of cg worth.. :cool: the biggest issue is the servo mounts and finding a set to work..

[cbr74]

Personally... I'm not all that impressed with laydown steering servos. What I don't like is it puts the servo arm and the bellcrank arcs at 90 degrees to each other. It is impossible to get a full linear swing with a laydown steering servo because the pivot point on the servo arm raises and lowers as it moves. With a vertical servo set-up the horn and bellcrank are on the same plane so the swing stays level and the push/pull is all linear.

Hope that made sense...

[kyoshofan420]

Thanks for the info. I am going to try to or insert a picture or two of my buggy.

[charlesd]

Very Nice !!!!!!!!!!!! I like that color blue. My savage Humm-vee body is that color :)

[kekekek]

I'm thinking about buying the HB lightning RTR , how is the engine that comes with it, any stats?

[charlesd]

The engine is the exact same one as the hpi savage .21.

I find the engine to be reliable, easy to tune and have Ok power. If you're planning just on bashing then the engine will be more the enough.

If you plan on racing club level, then the engine will be your practice engine or sold on ebay for a down payment on a racing engine.