HB Lightning RR Forum v3.0

[Upstate Bob]

I am loving this thing!

It started right up with the out of the box tuning, but as soon as I started to tune it (messing with the carb) for power after the break in, it got a bit hard to start after the tank went empty. Is it normal to have to hold you finger over the exhaust pipe for 7-8 pulls for there to be any chance at all to get it started? It seems like I have to do that every time, and it takes 10-15 pulls after that to get it running. Mine and my dad's fingers are raw from all the pull starting today. I'm seriously buying a starter box, soon.

Yeah, I plan on getting the Pro braces soon, but for now I'm going to keep the jumps low for a while till I get the hang of the handling and get the suspension tuned in well for even flight.

[CRSMP5]

if the engine is hot and trying to restart it is common due to aluminum carb..

my mind been elsewhere guys.. sorry abt instructions.. it was one of them feeble things i forgot..

make sure to boil that wing bob.. else it breks easy.. boil up a pot of water... turn off heat then let it sit like 10 min in the hot water..

[Upstate Bob]

I'm having a bit of a hard time trying to figure out the low speed needle. The book says that to richen it, you turn the screw CCW, and to never run more than 2.5 turns from closed. What's messing me up is that if you take off the air filter and watch the carb in action when you turn the low speed screw CCW, it closes the carb more, not opens it.

Do they mean to never have the low speed needle further out than 2.5 turns from all the way CW regardless of what the inside of the carb looks like it doing?

edit - I noticed that the mid range needle moves when I adjust the low speed needle, did I break my carb?

[FlashLCD33]

UpstateBob- every time you run the tank out of gas, you have to prime it by putting your finger over the exaust (or if it's hot, your shoe) and pulling 6 times or so.

Not sure about the lowspeed needle or the midrange. All i know is, dont try to tune the midrange. The low speed needle is on the carb barrel (pulls in/out as hit hit throttle/brake) and the mid range is on the opposite side. DO NOT TOUCH THE MID RANGE.

Your fingers shouldn't be raw after pullstarting. If you prime it, it should start within 10 pulls. The only time it wont start is when it gets too hot and you have to let it cool down.

[Upstate Bob]

Thanks, that helped calm a couple of my worries.

I got it all sorted out now and it runs great, no hesitation and a nice stream of blue smoke at WOT. It's pretty quick, although not faster than my dad's new Tmaxx :( and handles the little jump I made for it real nice. I'm quite pleased with how it flies, I was worried I was going to have a hard time getting it to fly level, but it's no problem. Oh, and the Cradock brakes, wow. They are really quite the upgrade. It was a bit of a pain to get the brake pads off the calipers and the screws had to be trimmed to fit with the new skinnier profile of the rotors/calipers, but it was well worth the work.

I really do have to get a temp sensor soon though, just to be sure it's running cool enough.

[Saboteur]

Broke in my engine about 3 hrs ago. Everything went smoothly. Just had to tune the HSN a tiny bit to see major increase in performance. Its amazing. EPA is also set at 40% and it launches strong. Adding more...watch out! Can't wait to hit the dirt with it :)!

[gr8taz nitro]

Was cruising through the parts listings on horizon and saw that they are starting to get some of the lp2 parts in stock. Also saw at the end of the listings that they have the lightning 2 speed kit in stock now! :D
part # HBSC9026

It's a wee bit pricey at just over $100 though. Just thought some of you guys might be interested.

[FlashLCD33]

UpstateBob-
My friend came over with his T-Maxx today. It's got a widening kit and custom turnbuckles and all this stuff to make it extra wide. Well, he DID edge me out on the top end. As far as accel, he was ripping a wheelie and i was cruising right passed him. The 2nd gear of the T-Maxx will push it faster then the Lightning, but the Lightning is a LOT quicker then the T-Maxx in all aspects (acceleration, turning, etc). Funniest part of it is, my temp was 220F and his was 300F. I bet with a clutch bell change with higher teeth, the Lightning and T-Maxx would be equal in acceleration and speed. Speed isn't what makes a buggy though, it's the acceleration.

[Upstate Bob]

Yeah, I know there's some more speed in my buggy too, I just don't feel safe leaning it out much more without a temp. gun around. Just playing it safe right now, and getting smoked by a MT. lol

[savageP3]

anyone here have a LP2? im thinking bout getting one and a starter box and a P5 or WS7II. would this be able to compete with kanai's?

[CRSMP5]

i have both.. i feel the pro 1 (8 port race in it) is better for tight tracks, quicker better steering, but i have a ws7II in the pro2 and runs great.. i just feel it is les responsive in the turns with the same exact set ups between the 2.

[luvmypro]

I also have both and I think the Pro 2 turns better. It has a sharper turning radius than the Pro1. Handles better in turns due to the lower center of gravity. But I also like my Pro 1. Just depends on what car you like better. For the price, the Pro 2 is way overpriced. The Pro 1 was a good deal if you can still find one.

[kyoshofan420]

I think I saw in a review of the Kanai 3 in RCCA that they said the 20 degrees give better steering than the 22 degrees carriers. I think the 22's are better at handling bumps. They have it posted in the articles section of the website. By the way, I finally picked up a new engine. Its a OFNA/Picco Comp. It was on sale for 139 dollars at ace. I have to send payment and wait for it to arrive. I really want to try it out on the track. Is it a good engine? I am sure that a LP2 could not only compete, but beat the Kanai's and MBX-5's on a track. Thanks in advance :)

[Ferrari_Spyder]

well i finally got to the track again sunday

carb was a friekin pain in the arse!!! :mad: it was running crappy rich at 300* when i did get it good it was just too frieken hot for my liking.

even when it was "good" i still got smoked by the other buggies and 2 of the faster mt's!

btw with my 945mg servo it turns MUCH better but it still "sucks" compared to others who can just nail it around apex's

the diff setup felt really weird with the new 3/7/1. either my driving or the setup made it feel RWD on the straights it was nearly impossible to have it go where i wanted it to and it would spin out very easily.

and i bent a shock shaft on the first tank aswell... (on the same shock as the replacement one for the last one that snapped)

since it was so hot it was impossible for it to start i was :mad: cus i wanted to drive and i went to the hobby shop afterwards and picked up an ofna 10250 aswell as shock fluids

so now i gotta rebuild my shocks so that i can run A WHOLE ONE MORE TANK BEFORE THEY FRIEKING BREAK AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i see a new carb or new engine on the way...

[Upstate Bob]

post deleted

[CRSMP5]

a set of pro1 upper arms, c hubs and bolts for c hubs can be obtained cheap.. under 20$.. i do suggest playing with the set ups.. some tracks im sure the pro2 would excell in.. but same token i still feel the pro 1 has it on tight turns..

http://users.pandora.be/elvo/ is a sweet reading material i read this after i got opinionated on the different castors.. i do admit bumpy the pro2 goes straighter.. but in tight turns i just do not think it turns as easy..

[FlashLCD33]

The engine does seem to be hard on hot restarts. After about 260F, you have to let it cool down before you can restart it. Can't be a worn p/s, it only has a gallon through it and i've just been starting to lean it.

Ferrari Spyder-
Not sure what kind of problems you're having. I have 3k/7k/1k and the front wheels still seem to pull more. As far as the spin-out problems, that's really wierd. I can go on gravel and floor it and the buggy will take off in a straight line. May want to try different shock oils/positions/preload/springs.

[CRSMP5]

the aluminum carb boils the fuel on restart and vapor locks the carb... common issue on savages a composite carb will help.. but richen up the LSN a 1/8th turn and you will see it gets better..

[muckingfuddle]

Hi, I just got a lightning 2 rr, had it for about 2 weeks, only put a front sway bar, waiting for upgraded front hub carriers. I think this car is really good, apart from the dodgy carb instructions. Just about to turn it into a truggy, got some hobao three spokes, just waiting on the tyres. Not to sure though what some of the bags of bits are for, worked out some of them though. Just wondered if anyone has any tips on this three pin carb? Would it be worth changing it for a different one?

cheers

[FlashLCD33]

You'll be fine, just don't touch the MSN. The LSN is on the throttle arm and the HSN is sticking up from the carb. The MSN is on the side of the carb that is stationary. DON'T TOUCH THE MSN!

[brokenzipper]

On my pro1 with hyper 8 port pullstart it dies everytime i have a impact with front end. It only does it when i land nose front (ie. bumper in the dirt) off a jump. I broke the pullstart cord so i removed it and the spring inside but left the oneway and the rod that goes into the engine. I now use a starterbox. Could this have anything to do with the dieing issue or something else.
P.S. I also have about 50% tread left on my stock tires and the traction is better than ever on my track(strange huh) so if anybody has any used sets of pro1 stockers im interested if cheap

[muckingfuddle]

Weeeeell i did change the settings on the carb (doh), followed what the manual said and the lsn and msn go inside one another, that much so that they stick to each other so when you turn one you turn them both!! Thats due to the manual instructions ! Anyway I did manage to set them right, my mate remembered that they where both flush with the carb, the msn though - ? - should it be flush or just flush with the bevel around the edge of the screw that needle goes into?

[CRSMP5]

zip, how old is the glow plug? also look at the fuel lines and stuff to see is anythign is pintched

[brokenzipper]

The plug is pretty old, time wise anyway put in just after xmas but about half gallon of fuel. Fuel lines are intact and not pinched. Maybe ill try a new plug but does that sound like the problem. It kind of just snuck up on me and started happening.
Maybe some more info. Happens cold or hot,only on landing that are vertical with ground and i can pick it up about 4 ft and drop it nose first(simulateing my crashes)and it will die every time. nothing is touchin the flywheel and motor is tight.
thx, zipper

[Ferrari_Spyder]

on hard landings fuel that normally is under the piston will get jostled into the cylinder. the sudden movement and gain in fuel requires a glowplug that is new enough to burn it off. if it just started happening its probably an old plug, but if it happens sometimes even when brand new you might need a hotter plug.

[Jetcar]

Hi this is my first post here with hopefully lots to come. I'm from OZ and own a Sacker Pro.(Lightning Pro for you guys I believe). I'm told by my local hobby shop that it has a force .21 engine? I've looked here and the pics of other guys engines look different to mine...I'll post some pics if someone wants to have a look...cheers. :)

[Jetcar]

what engine exactly?

[Jetcar]

what is it?

[Jetcar]

what is it?

[Jetcar]

metalic blue..

[Ooopps]

Looks like the good ole 21BB to me, I believe it is based off the Force block. Used in the HPI Savage.

[k_bojar]

Looks like the good ole 21BB to me, I believe it is based off the Force block. Used in the HPI Savage.

True, but that's a different than my Lightning had....

[CRSMP5]

well im about to head out of town to denver co till the 13th.. doubt ill have internet access.. so have fun guys.. ill check up if i can.. if not ill see ya on the 13th..

[CRSMP5]

and the photos.. the head look like a 21 picco.. i do know this..

in oz a savage ss comes with a picco 26.. wonder if the hb comes with a picco 21 in oz.. also thats not a force engine, the casting on the block is all wrong also.

[Jetcar]

Yeah I don't get why the inported cars to OZ get a name change, and an engine change by the look of things...I didnt get any documentation about the engine with my kit...nothing...thats why I wouldnt mind knowing what it is so I can search for some info and then Ive got some base settings to go back to if I need to...If anyone can tell me what it is then great. If not then too bad.

[Jetcar]

Another question...I'm about to take my car to the track for the first time in the next few days...just wondering what screws might come loose?...I havn't gone over my buggy with locktite yet, but if there is anything in perticular that is prone to coming loose I can pay some attention to it...I know this is probably covered but I'm short on time...I put the put the wing in boiled water for 10min tonight...heard it helps...anything else?

[CRSMP5]

http://www.ofna.com/images/eng-force-p4.jpg

looks the same to me...

force p4 engine

- ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS -
CLAIMED HP 1.7
RPM 30,000
CARB TYPE SLIDE
CRANK Threaded
CONSTRUCTION ABC
ENGINE SIZE .21
TYPE REAR EXHAUST

Force P4 Pull Start
PART #52211
Force P4 No Pull Start
PART #52210

http://www.ofna.com/eng-force-p4.html

its not exact but the carb looks the same.. but the head matches the little bro of
http://www.ofna.com/images/eng-force12red.jpg
which is a 12 sized engine..

now more info.. oz exports them to hb, they have had them there longer then the us ever has.. and i think its just a engine supply/cost factor..

[CRSMP5]

when i took my pro1 apart it was the best assembled car ive ever bought that was prebuilt as for as lctite and all is concerned.

but yours was built by different people so cannot say..

[CRSMP5]

i cannot find any info on the picco 21 i know the LHS installs into buggies with a blue head that matches the one in your photos..

[muckingfuddle]

Does anyone know the correct settings for the three pin carb on the .26 engine that comes with the lightning 2 rr, would really appreciate it since the manual is just totally not working for me, and the instructions from ofna just dont really cover it.

Many thanks

[FlashLCD33]

Main things you want to loctite are the wheel nuts and the 4 screws (2 on top, 2 on bottom) that hold the front steering knuckles on. Never had anything else fall out besides those. Like MP5 said, yours is built by different people then ours were, so there could be others.

[CRSMP5]

be very very carefull on the nuckles.. you wan tto add loctite to the knuckle its self, not th ebolt, i fyou loctite the bolt the shim/spacer piece gets glues to teh bolt, when you mak ea turn it comes loose.. if you apply loctite to the threads in the nuckle the shim/washer thinggy does not get glued to the bolt..

[FlashLCD33]

be very very carefull on the nuckles.. you wan tto add loctite to the knuckle its self, not th ebolt, i fyou loctite the bolt the shim/spacer piece gets glues to teh bolt, when you mak ea turn it comes loose.. if you apply loctite to the threads in the nuckle the shim/washer thinggy does not get glued to the bolt..

:confused: What? :confused:

[CRSMP5]

wow lots of typos there.. the bolt that goes thru the c-hub into the aluminum knuckle is of "concern" they have the steel coller/spacer in the c-hun betwen it and the bolt. if you apply loctite to the bolt its self, it bonds to sid spacer/coller and when you turn the wheels it breaks the bolt loose of the knuckle.. if you read back to the beginning of version 2 (maybe even version 1) of this thread it is spoken of in a highly disgruntaled why does it keep falling out issue. if you add loctite to the threaded area of the knuckle, put everything into place, then insert the loctite free bolt thru its spacer/collet the 2 do not bond and the bolt stays put. :)

[FlashLCD33]

My bolts turn when the wheels turn.. that's not suppost to happen? They haven't loosened though.

[CRSMP5]

yea the bolt has to turn.. the problem is when "glued together with the shim/collet" they do not turn and bolt loosens up then falls out..

[FlashLCD33]

Phew.. thought I did something wrong.

[FlashLCD33]

Wow, this thread is dead.

I'm thinking about getting some Mugshots, anybody used these?

Keep this alive!

[Ooopps]

Nope, haven't used them. Been trying to get this car to have better low speed turning. I like a twitchy car but this one feels way to lazy. Here is my setup as of now:

1K Rear, 10K Center, 5K Front

1º Toe Out
-2º Camber front
45 Wt oil in front
Stock Shock Positions

2º Toe in rear
-2º Camber Rear
40Wt oil in Rear
Stock Shock Positions

Phantom FR21
OS 2050 Pipe
1.0mm Springs
Mugen Aluminum Shoes

Current setup has great steering middle of corner, descent turnin, but lacks that turn on a dime my xxx-4 had. Thinking about trying a little stiffer spring in the front. Any Ideas?

[FlashLCD33]

My buggy can turn a circle in less then a 4' diameter.

Stiffer rear springs give it more turning, and softer front springs do also. I use stock positions for everything, stock oil, and just Kyosho blue rear springs. My 645MG with a long horn is what really shines.

[Jetcar]

I just got some spare airfilter foam for when I hit the track. My local track seems quite dusty, anyway the new foam elements I bought are two piece, like an inner piece the same size as my original and an outer sleeve. I'm guessing I install the inner as per normal and then slide the outer over the top of everything - plastic end caps as well. Is this right? And should I oil the both pieces? because I have heard of guys who just oil the outer then slide it of and slide on a new outer when its dirty...I think I'll oil it all to be safe...any thoughts?

[charlesd]

Always be sure to oil the inner element. I oil both on my Motor Saver. The exterior filter will catch quite a bit, but it's the inner filter that's really protecting your engine.

In very dusty conditions, i carry two exterior filters and change one half way through the day.

[Casey]

Wow, this thread is dead.

I'm thinking about getting some Mugshots, anybody used these?

Keep this alive!

Last year I ran Mugshots for both of our LHS's points seasons(8 weeks each). Our track is hard-packed with loose dirt & dust on top. The Mugshots worked great, and I managed to get 8 weeks out of a set which isn't too bad. That's two 6-minute qualifiers and a 10-minute main each week plus practice. This year I've got a set of Panther Geckos that worked really great the last time I tried them. Our first race of the first points season starts Monday, June 7th. I've still got some Mugshots and am also going to give some other Panther tires a try.

[Casey]

I just got some spare airfilter foam for when I hit the track. My local track seems quite dusty, anyway the new foam elements I bought are two piece, like an inner piece the same size as my original and an outer sleeve. I'm guessing I install the inner as per normal and then slide the outer over the top of everything - plastic end caps as well. Is this right? And should I oil the both pieces? because I have heard of guys who just oil the outer then slide it of and slide on a new outer when its dirty...I think I'll oil it all to be safe...any thoughts?


I lightly oil both the inner and outer filters and bring about 5 extra oiled outer filters. That way I can change them after a bit of practice and in between each race. Our track can get pretty dusty when it's dry and the outers get nasty in a hurry.

[Ooopps]

Don't really have a problem with turning radius, servo locks the knuckles in both direction, using Hitech Servo as well. It just seems that the car will push at low speeds, making a larger arc then what the wheels are pointing, I believe it is called slip plane. Anyhow, I will buy a set of stiffer springs and see what happens. Also what wt oil is stock?

[Casey]

Don't really have a problem with turning radius, servo locks the knuckles in both direction, using Hitech Servo as well. It just seems that the car will push at low speeds, making a larger arc then what the wheels are pointing, I believe it is called slip plane. Anyhow, I will buy a set of stiffer springs and see what happens. Also what wt oil is stock?


Your "push" could also have something to do with what weight silicone you run in the diffs or if you just have grease in them.

[Ooopps]

1K R, 10k C, 5K F

My setup is posted a page back.

[FlashLCD33]

I run 3k/7k/1k and it has great on power steering. Just a thought.

BTW, anybody else having shock tower problems? I upgraded to 3mm 7075s and bent them the 2nd time out. I guess 4mm is my only option.

[Saboteur]

I haven't bent mine yet and I get a lot of crashes. Still running right into concrete buildings I assume :P . Anyone know an engine under $200 that fits right into the Lightning RTR with no mods (PS or non p/s)? I was surprised to find that my stock buggy beat my boss's Hyper 7 pbs w/ hyper 8 port in a drag race. On grass he wasn't any faster than I was. The engine just revved high but he wasn't gaining any sort of speed. Surely onroad he is faster but even on dirt, I still managed to beat him. Anyone know a dyno tune of the stock .21BB? Is it actually the same as the force .21? I'm thinking of the OS .21RG but I heard the p/s version wont fit.

[Casey]

I haven't bent mine yet and I get a lot of crashes. Still running right into concrete buildings I assume :P . Anyone know an engine under $200 that fits right into the Lightning RTR with no mods (PS or non p/s)? I was surprised to find that my stock buggy beat my boss's Hyper 7 pbs w/ hyper 8 port in a drag race. On grass he wasn't any faster than I was. The engine just revved high but he wasn't gaining any sort of speed. Surely onroad he is faster but even on dirt, I still managed to beat him. Anyone know a dyno tune of the stock .21BB? Is it actually the same as the force .21? I'm thinking of the OS .21RG but I heard the p/s version wont fit.

I just dropped the Ofna/PICCO Comp into one of my Lightning Pros. It's NICE.

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2517&osCsid=13c6457fc8de349e3b93f6eec3467fa3

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/images/51215.jpg

[Casey]

Just painted up a new body for my #2 Lightning Pro....

classic hot rod flames over black
http://images.andale.com/f2/107/104/1827656/1085805899630_CP_Hot_Rod_Flames_Lightning_a.jpg

[FlashLCD33]

6mm thick baby. 1 6061 tower and 1 7075. I just had to use longer hinge pins (I bought a full set of hinge pins for the lightning off ebay, and they were in there).

[PhillyB]

On my pro1 with hyper 8 port pullstart it dies everytime i have a impact with front end. It only does it when i land nose front (ie. bumper in the dirt) off a jump. I broke the pullstart cord so i removed it and the spring inside but left the oneway and the rod that goes into the engine. I now use a starterbox. Could this have anything to do with the dieing issue or something else.
P.S. I also have about 50% tread left on my stock tires and the traction is better than ever on my track(strange huh) so if anybody has any used sets of pro1 stockers im interested if cheap

this is something i was told about as well. i purchased a used RTR1 from my LHS tech, good guy, he said i needed to change the shock oil and drill the pistons (54#) and dremel the chassis. he had already changed out the diff fluids. the dremeling is to be done under the clutchbell, to give more clearance. he said to remove as much material from this area as possible. i noticed when i removed the engine a small divot in the purple al, right underneath where the end of the bell sits.

apparently on hard impacts the RTR chassis flexes too much and rubs the chassis. if you are on the throttle this should stall the engine. in my last race, where i bent a chassis, broke a rear a-flex rod, and shock tower, my engine stalled alot. im fairly sure this was why. anyone else notice the same thing?

i found this thread after purchasing and having alot of fun with it, even though i broke it.

running a crono RS7, think P5 with ofna 4 shoe clutch, with 1.0 and unlimited engineering 2.4 Al shoes mugen air filter (best) 14 or 15T
JR xs3 no xtals
945mg, soon to be 925mg as well
mostly crime fighters, but got proline RR/knuckles/badlands as well

got alot of HB parts ordered
7075 chassis (to replace the one i bent) shock towers/braces/suspension holders/steering bar/heatsink engine mount/
kanai shocks/knuckles
jammin pipe

we have alot of K buggies around here. after my first race (tiltyard) which was basically practice, not even enough people to really call it a race, i decided to keep my HB and outrun all the big buggies around here.

man that was alot of reading. i couldnt stand idly by forever so now i join up lol.

[Ooopps]

I haven't bent mine yet and I get a lot of crashes. Still running right into concrete buildings I assume :P . Anyone know an engine under $200 that fits right into the Lightning RTR with no mods (PS or non p/s)? I was surprised to find that my stock buggy beat my boss's Hyper 7 pbs w/ hyper 8 port in a drag race. On grass he wasn't any faster than I was. The engine just revved high but he wasn't gaining any sort of speed. Surely onroad he is faster but even on dirt, I still managed to beat him. Anyone know a dyno tune of the stock .21BB? Is it actually the same as the force .21? I'm thinking of the OS .21RG but I heard the p/s version wont fit.

I dropped the new Fantom FR21 into my LP. You can get it for around $190 without PS and around $200 with PS. About the only thing I noticed between the stock 21BB and a newer motor was more torque coming out of corners and more acceleration. Top speed was almost the same, though a little faster with the newer Fantom.

As a side note, my buddy put a .21 XTM Pro in his K2, I feel that his motor is almost identicle in power to the Fantom.

Low speed turning problem, me thinks it could be the tires, considering, when I drive it on the road, I get alot of weight transfer to the front and good steering on the road.

[jabber]

I just broke my l1 in last night and i was wondering about how many tanks before i can start leaning it out? also what have people found to be the best HSN and then LSN setting for max performance. Also what will strip the paint off my stock body the easiest?
So far i love the buggy should be a blast to race tonight bone stock!

[Casey]

Don't really have a problem with turning radius, servo locks the knuckles in both direction, using Hitech Servo as well. It just seems that the car will push at low speeds, making a larger arc then what the wheels are pointing, I believe it is called slip plane. Anyhow, I will buy a set of stiffer springs and see what happens. Also what wt oil is stock?


I don't know what your track is like, but the one I regularly race on is full of tight turns. I found that removing the front sway bar helped eliminate alot of "push".

[Ooopps]

I don't know what your track is like, but the one I regularly race on is full of tight turns. I found that removing the front sway bar helped eliminate alot of "push".

Was thinking about that as well.

The stock set up uses a High Roll center in the rear and neutral in the front (parallel links). That is one reason why the front has so much weight transfer, wasn't sure if removing the sway bar would cause the car to "hook" or traction roll more. I suppose you could counteract, by using a stiffer spring in the front. Need to do more track testing.

[Saboteur]

Blah. Turns out the Force .26 is at the LHS for $139.99...the Ofna/Picco .26 is for $179.99 non p/s. All other .21 engines are over $200 as they are the more race type. Grrrr. Guess I'll stick with my stock engine and get a better pipe or buy the OS .21 RG. Whats a good pipe for the Stock .21BB? I'll probably change the gearing too.

[Ooopps]

Blah. Turns out the Force .26 is at the LHS for $139.99...the Ofna/Picco .26 is for $179.99 non p/s. All other .21 engines are over $200 as they are the more race type. Grrrr. Guess I'll stick with my stock engine and get a better pipe or buy the OS .21 RG. Whats a good pipe for the Stock .21BB? I'll probably change the gearing too.


OS 2050 pipe.......Not cheap, but well worth it. Also works good with the .21RG.

[brokenzipper]

PhillyB, First , welcome and thx for your idea on what might be the problem. I did change out the glow plug but still the same problem. I'll pull the motor and check for rubbing and let yall know if thats it.

[PhillyB]

broken zipper im almost sure thats your problem. are you still running the stock braces? after snapping one of the rod ends on the stock braces mine stalled out alot, didnt really put two and two together until finding a bent chassis. on hard front impacts (or landings in my case) the bell is going to hit. im sure you will see a small nick in the chassis. it doesnt take much to stall out the engine.

my question is did the pro or rtr2 chassis fix this? with a machined section under the clutchbell. ill find out, i ordered one.

i got a new body, the HB one. LHS tech said the 7.5 one didnt fit too well. well now that i have the HB i notice it doesnt have window masks and is thin as paper. im sure ill rip it in half in just a few weekends, seeing as how my body was new (car used, body brand new) and i have almost ripped the rear body mount hole out.

some of you mention that the stock wing is fragile? mine seems to have lasted, guessing whoever had it before me knew about the boiling technique. but i have a brand new 7.5 wing, from the K people. should i boil this one?

this forum is AWESOME ive been searching for what i consider a long time, and havent found hardly anything on this buggy.

if your glow plug is bad, it either wont start at all, or stalls when you pull the nighter off. or it might affect tuning, but i havent seen this yet. shouldnt have any affect on front impacts. but it is usually the first thing i change if i have problems.

[jabber]

I ran my L1 tonight, seemed to work good. First Question, what glow plug is best for the stock motor?
Second question, does anyone suffer from a lack of stearing at mid/high speeds. Im running a 94357 airtronics servo with 4 cell alkaline pack so it should still put out 6 volts. But im having a heck of a time getting around some tight 180s that other 8ths are not having the problem in. Any help is apreciated, also its a box stock L1 rtr

[PhillyB]

get a rechargable pack, thats a really fast servo you should be able to turn real fast. drop the AA's like a bad habit. mine turns on a dime, 945MG (slower but strong) and 1100 nimh pack. in fact it turns soo well i had to dial out my exponential to tone it down a little, it was all sorts of squirelly.

i am assuming you are running the stock radio?

i run nothing but rechargeable packs, one in my SM and one in the buggy. the one in my SM has been around at least a year, and the buggy one is new (so is the buggy lol) and both can smack the wheels back and forth with authority in the air.

with my rechargables i dont have to worry about one of the batteries coming unseated and breaking the circuit. this usually results in a runaway (if no failsafe/TRS) etc. if you are just putting around the lawn, then AA's might be ok, but if you wish to be competitive spend the dough on a rx pack. get a decent peak charger, i think some are as low as 35-50$ now. this is one of a few things id say would be a high priority upgrade, right up there with stronger servos.

i use a variable amp charger (duratrax digital) and charge at a lower rate .5-.75A when i first get to the track, to get a full charge. then i practice with that, and peak charge at a higher amp, like 1.5-2A (this is not good for the pack, never above 2A!!) before each qual and main. we have a pro type track here, and they run 40 min mains.

[Ooopps]

Jabber, Check you servo saver, At high speeds it might be releasing not allowing your buggy to turn. I cranked mine down to the tightest setting.

[jabber]

Well I run an m8 normally just havent had time to put it in the car. And my rx pack hasent showed up from tower yet, i already ordered that also. However on the servo saver i dont run one, i run a direct servo horn to the servo linkage.

[chiquete]

Hi there, I'm the proud owner of a Lightning rtr here in Baja Mexico, has served me well in club racing and bashing, but I'm too excited about the new LP2 and the RR2 version and I'm thinking getting one of those... When the LP1 and the Lightning rr first came out, they were in the same price range (300 bucks) but when I saw what Tower Hobbies wants for the RR2 (500!!) my underwear went down! Like $50 more expensive than the Pro2, in some online stores like RCBOYZ they have the Pro2 at $390, this tells me that the RTR2 should be around $400 but this is not the case, maybe HB didn't make the cost reducing thing like they used to. I hope in the future to see more online stores selling this machine competing each other to offer the best price, although is relatively new in the market I think is time for more stock of these buggies...

[Saboteur]

I also agree on rechargable packs. Highly recommended. Alkaline AA's are a thing of the past. I run rechargable 2100NIMH AAs for my RX and a 1200NIMH for my buggy. The Hitec 625MG does pretty well for steering even in thick grass. Stock servo is also good for braking.

[PhillyB]

man, i found more carnage from my wrecks.

so far i noticed, and in this order (this happened in ONE day of racing, last saturday)

missing screw from front knuckle, needed a new knuckle (got one from another racer)
broken rear ball, where the rear top camber link attaches to the rear shock tower
misc missing/loose/bent screws
broken rear ball end on the anti-flex shaft
bent rear shock tower
bent rear chassis
now i find today, almost a week later
bent rear driveshaft
chewed up differential casing, not sure what happened, all i can guess is that the rear diff housing flexed and the casing hit the pinion gear. got plastic shavings everywhere (R/P was notchy)
bent anti-bending rod mount, this is where the bottom screws on the wing go into

got more parts today
alu heatsink motor mount - looks real trick, i think its shorter and the engine will sit lower
rear anti bending rod
4mm 7075 shock towers front rear
kyosho shocks front rear
two kyosho big fuel filters
jammin JP-1 header and pipe
kyosho front knuckles
mugen air filter
rear CVDs
misc spare parts

still need a front anti bending rod and 3mm 7075 chassis. lhs guy says they are backordered, everything else i ordered came today. anything else come with the pro's that i am missing?

[NitroLightning]

maybe HB didn't make the cost reducing thing like they used to. I hope in the future to see more online stores selling this machine competing each other to offer the best price, although is relatively new in the market I think is time for more stock of these buggies...
Cost reducing thing??? The reason why they were selling their buggies at such low prices has always been because of low demand. But now that their buggies are getting more and more popular, they can raise the price of their buggies and also drag in a larger crowd willing to pay this price. For some strange reason, people would rather pay $100 for an item instead of $10 for the exact same item but with a different name. :rolleyes:
Kanai II mp7.5 vs. LP1 almost the exact same car as the kanai, but only a fraction of the price. Demand is a horrible thing!

[Ooopps]

Well I run an m8 normally just havent had time to put it in the car. And my rx pack hasent showed up from tower yet, i already ordered that also. However on the servo saver i dont run one, i run a direct servo horn to the servo linkage.

There is a built in servo saver in the steering arms. Check the two post that the arms swing on, you will notice that one has a spring and a tightening nut. This is probably loose or worn on your buggy, tighten this down. Check you manual for better pics of it.

[Ferrari_Spyder]

well i was going to race today but i had too many problems. thursday i had the car running great on the street, 230* quik through the power range and all was good. come today i got up early to go to my first race, and during practice the car would somtimes bog a little and sound like it was near dying so i would gun it a little and it would come back alive. sounds a little rich in the low-end right? i leaned it up a bit and it was better but not nearly as good as i had it running on my street. temped it and got 300*. richened the topend. still crappy proformance. come later after richening the lowend again it temps at 320* :eek: at this point my crappy brand-spanking new dynamite glowigniter battery dies after a full night charge. by the way my also spanking new ofna 10250 starter box cant start this car worth crap when its slightly off-tune, pullstarter started it in one pull. :cool: also still had the major corner pushing problem. i had to slow way down before a turn or i would go careening into the outside of the turn way before i could lay down the power and zoom out. the kanai's could hunker down and bite the ground embaressingly visously while im left in the dust (actually the pipe, upside down) after my glowigniter died and other **** happened like my underide knuckle screw fell out (which caused CVA to fall out) i decided to pack my stuff and leave as the last sign up calls were announced. so much for waking up at 7:00 to have some fun, eh? :o

when i got home, i messed with the carburetor, i set it back to factory, and then it wouldnt even start it was slow bloody rich at factory settings. i leaned the HSN to the peak setting and it started but ran like crap. i didnt get much time to do anything though because an upper arm pin fell out. i also installed the rear lower arm pins backwards so the c-clip side is outside. from landing nose up, the ends rounded off and i cant keep a c-clip on either side. i ordered a pin set for my front lower arms inside pins but i got the front lower arms outside pins. i dont know which are supposed to be called what now. so now i need rear lower inside pins, and a front upper inside pin, 1 upper arm size c-clip aswell. i also *think* i need a new carburetor *still* because i think i mightve ruined the carb needle when i checked the LSN and MSN at the same time and i mightve damaged the point of needle or the casing on other side. would this explain 320* and tune change? i also when i got car started at home finally i sprayed wd-40 around carb, back-plate and engine casing which is supposed to be an airleak test? none of the wd-40 bubbled anywhere so i guess that means i dont have an airleak anywhere. *also* now i am unable to find the factory needle settings anymore because depending on where the MSN is say, the LSN needle becomes tight at different points and so when backed out, at different points too. if i couldnt start my car before i definitely cant now.

from the last time i had the car running:

wheels spin when car held off ground
wheels dont spin when on ground
must start giving throttle immediately once started and throttle always for 3 minutes, when engine can survive lower revs without stalling.
lowend boggy, smoky, inconsistent
highend whiny, smoky, slow-ish (compared to kanais)
only dies when in lower RPM's
has always temped 340* or lower on street and 360* or higher at track (coincidence :confused: )

also:
car turns *much* better on asphalt then at track (tire problem?)
dad says its funky that these rc cars have different differencial weights for front and rear.
dad wonders why rear differential weight is lower than front
dad says car acts like RWD
dad says i had to much toe-in (changed to 0degrees and no noticeable difference)
dad says i dont need a carburetor
dad says composite carbs WOULD NOT dissapate heat faster than aluminum

bought c-cell rechargeables for glowigniter doh* wrong size. *** kinda size is what glow-igniters take? where can i get good ones that last A WHILE

who wants to bet how many races im going to go to until my car actually survives practice so i can actually sign up and race?

*if* it is a new carb i need, then just list some brands/engines types of carbs i should be looking for used on ebay. composite or aluminum?

help me before i take an axe to my car and rc

edit: feels as though ive got a year full of posts *lol* (i no its not funny but its late)

[FlashLCD33]

Rechargable glow starters use "Sub-C". I have a Sanyo 1100 that lasts about a week or 2 on a full charge.

Philly: Get the front aluminum suspension holders C8116 i think.

[Jetcar]

I feel for you...I'm going to be taking my Pro to the track in 3 weeks time, for the first time. They have a beginners day at my local track, 4th sun of the month. To have a bit of a squirt and get used to things before mixing it with the 'big boys'...I am really hoping I don't break much or have a lot of problems like you seemed to have at the moment....I might not go back lol...

Having a Pro I hope its strong enough to last awhile without breaking...I won't be going toooo hard to start with...

by the way I got a cheap starter box, can't remember the name of it but its got twin 540 motors and a 12v 7.2ah battery, Is this box going to anygood?...

Another question...Is anyone running 2 speed yet??? I don't think we can get it in OZ yet...but if its worth it I might import one.... :D :D :D

[Ooopps]

FS, I feel your pain.

Tuning: Tuning on the street is very different than tuning on the track. The motor works less on the street then it does trying to go through a dirt obstacle course. Here is how I tune my buggy:

1. After you get started, get it up above say 130ºF. Start driving it on the street, WOT blips untill you can't get the temp to rise any further. This is the point at which your tune effects engine temperature.

- If your Temp is above 240ºf then richen your HSN.
- If your Temp has not reached 200º then lean your HSN.

Once you get the engine at safe temp level then tune for performance, somedays my engine runs like a bat out hell at 210º somedays it wants to run at 260º. Temping gets you into the ballpark, but your ear and performance will be the final tune.

Also never try to tune a cold motor, you will run yourself in circle.


Dad Says Answers:
car turns *much* better on asphalt then at track (tire problem?)
- I have same problem, I think the car needs a longer upper link, located near the kingpins. The new MP777 and LP2 have made this change. Also Get the 0º and 3º degree aluminum block to change caster. Use the 0 for small tracks and 3 for large tracks.

dad says its funky that these rc cars have different differencial weights for front and rear. Dad wonders why rear differential weight is lower than front
- You use different weight oils to control the amount of "diffing" they do. Typically lighter weights in the rear, ever drive a car with posi-traction in the rear. Center is usually the heaviest weight as you want 4wd not 2wd. Front is somewhere in between, you want the front to pull you through corners, so it is a balance.

dad says car acts like RWD
- Is is spinning out?
dad says i had to much toe-in (changed to 0degrees and no noticeable difference)
- He's correct, run about 1º-2º of toe out, this will help low speed turning, but will make the car wonder down the straights.
dad says i dont need a carburetor
- Ask dad how he would control fuel mixture and rate into the engine and maintain the proper fuel to air ratios. Fuel injection would be cool, but to complicated for our little buggies.
dad says composite carbs WOULD NOT dissapate heat faster than aluminum
- He's correct, it wouldn't, but, It doesn't absorb heat like an aluminum carb would either. So if you are not absorbing heat you have a cooler carb and a cooler mixture, which means more oxygen and fuel in the same amount of space, because cold air is denser than hot air, just ask any hot air balloonist:)

Hope this helps,

[Ferrari_Spyder]

thank you Ooopps,

if i tune it on the street, how do you suggest i change the tune so that it runs with similar results on the track?

lucky me i guessed on the 3* or 0* i picked 0* and i have a small track

dad says REAL cars have the same weight diff oil front/rear

ya it can easily spin out under power

i had maybe 4* toe in which is a bit much changed to 0* and im not a good enough driver yet that i can even tell the difference. ill changed to 2*

im saying my dad doesnt think i need a NEW carburetor.


so now i just have to get the car tuned all over again, or get a new carb which i want, somehow fix the pushing problem, loctite all the screws, get a full set of suspension pins and go out and race again knowing how to fix the tune and not break my buggy in practice.

[Ooopps]

After you get it tuned for the street, the HSN should be within a quarter turn either direction. The cars performance will tell you at this point, just remeber to check the temp as to not let it get crazy hot, in excess of 300ºf.

As far as the LSN, once you get the HSN set on the street, pinch the fuel line, if the idle goes up, lean it about 1/8 turn. If the idle is unchanged see how long it will idle for, a good idle will start out kinda high and slowly decrease in rpm untill the motor loads up, say around 30 seconds.

Your carb should be ok, unless the carb is leaking air, example would be a torn o-ring in the HSN or where the carb interfaces the engine.

Your dad is correct, real cars use about 80wt gear oil in both differentials, the difference is that real cars are alot heavier, HP to weight ratio is nowhere near that of an 1/8 scale car. So getting the power down to the ground can be tricky.

For the pushing problem try loosening the front sway bar. Once I get this car figured out I will post the setup.

[jabber]

im running 3 1/4 turns on the hsn stock lsn and its at 250 :( i need more speed

[PhillyB]

the size in most of the rechargable glow nighters (im using a red duratrax one with a meter on top, although everyone around here has the same one!) is a sub-c. i picked up a 3300 mah battery from my LHS for about 10$. it usually runs for a while. also have a fast charger (20 min, 20$) that runs off a battery or power supply (12V) that i run with my normal charger.

well i like my setup on the track, pretty much yoshi kanais setup sheet

currently at
50wt front and rear, probably going to try 60 in the rear soon
shocks in the inner hole on front/rear lower arms
the big spacer on the front shock
big spacer and medium spacer on the rear
the inside bottom hole on the front shock tower
the hole one out from the bottom on the rear towards the outside of the car
2 deg suspension holder on the rear
negative 1.5 in the front 2 in the rear
the rear upper suspension link goes on the inside bottom hole

this was a very agressive setup, turns very well borderline too well, not very stable on the straightaway but the track was horribly muddy and rutted. so much traction i had alot of traction rolls, using crime fighters. tried badlands, just for fun, it was cool looking but too much traction.

if you want to make more power switch to 30% nitro. try a decent racing pipe, RD logics makes a few that are affordable, try a one piece pipe. both cost more but i think its worth it. also play with gearing options, i switched from a 15t to a 14t and have crazy acceleration and more than enough top end. also anything you do to make your car run faster will probably shorten the engines life. my engines rarely see over 260 degrees, and this is usually after a long race or practice. anything over 300 will probably cause major wear. if your engine is regularily at this temperature and isnt making much power you have probably lost compression and pinch.

[Duster_360]

Question about your comment on the RD Logics pipe, I'm replacing the stock engine with an OS21RG and I wanted to change to a one piece pipe. I was just about to order an Ofna pipe of some kind (prob an 053). Do you have any experience with the RD Logics pipe - the only RDL pipe I see on their site is p/n 61850 - is this the one? Its the only 1/8 off road pipe I see listed.

Do I remember correctly somebody rapping Ofna pipes cause they are thin? Any body else have any advice/comments? Thanks!!

[Casey]

Question about your comment on the RD Logics pipe, I'm replacing the stock engine with an OS21RG and I wanted to change to a one piece pipe. I was just about to order an Ofna pipe of some kind (prob an 053). Do you have any experience with the RD Logics pipe - the only RDL pipe I see on their site is p/n 61850 - is this the one? Its the only 1/8 off road pipe I see listed.

Do I remember correctly somebody rapping Ofna pipes cause they are thin? Any body else have any advice/comments? Thanks!!

I ran an O.S. RG with an Ofna 063 pipe for awhile. This combo had incredible low-end power and wasn't too bad on the top end either. The 063 is not made of thin aluminum, and I've had no problems with denting or otherwise. I believe the thin pipes are actually the big dollar RB pipes.

[PhillyB]

basically every pipe is either a top/mid/bottom end pipe, and the ofna and rd logics pipes are based on the RB pipes. RB pipes are the best, but also cost waay too much, mostly because of all the research they have done. ofna i dont have any experience with but my RD pipe was pretty good, i think they carry both the high/bottom pipes, take a look on ebay. mine still works and im keeping it, thought about selling it but i doubt id make much money. my favorite so far has to be the jammin jp1 pipe. pricey at 80$ but its great, and cheaper than an RB pipe. the stinger cant be bent, and its real thick. which comes at a price, its like strapping a brick to the buggy.

today was a real good day for my RTR. got me a 925MG (man they are so fast) for my throttle, an odonell head for my crono RS7, misc spare parts (needed a c clip) and 7075 front suspension holder. still no chassis or front brace. ordered more junk too.

which brings me to todays carnage. noticed the other day the front hingepin holder which is directly behind the front bumper (stock is alu i guess) was bent. decided to replace it with above mentioned 7075 piece. got it all apart and noticed the front hingepin holder in the rear (plastic piece) was busted in half. not sure how it even worked like that. this would have to comprimise handling for sure. got a new one on there but it says +1. not sure what to think of that but ok.


does anyone know if the pro2 3mm 7075 chassis has the same holes as the rtr1?

[Casey]

Last night was the first points race of the first points series of the year at Bristol RC in Bristol, WI.

I brought with me to the track my Lightning Pro #1(Ofna/PICCO Comp .21 & Ofna 063 pipe) and my Lightning Pro #2(O.S. RG.21 & stock pipe). I did some practice with LP#1(my primary racer) and things seemed to be going well. Then either a clutch shoe or spring broke and I didn't have time to dig in and fix it. Ended up racing LP#2.

First heat I had the fastest time, even after breaking a shock end on the right front and plowing around with 2 or 3 laps remaining. I was sure the 2nd place guy was going to catch me before the race was over, but I managed to hang on. Back in the pits I swapped out a shock from LP#1 to LP#2.

Second heat was a nearly perfect run and I had the fastest time again which gave me TQ for the night.

Before the 1/8 buggy main an announcement was made that there were computer/transponder problems. The race directors decided to re-run all of the races next week and start the points season then. Running the 1/8 buggy main was optional, but we all decided that we came out to race - so we did. I started on the pole and ran a few clean laps. I somehow ended up tipping the buggy over and it stalled. Got it started up right away and managed to make it back to second place one lap down from the leader when I ended up on my lid again(my fault) and kept OFF the throttle so the marshal could flip me over. Well, he did flip me over....all the way back over on my lid again! Still off the throttle for the marshall's sake I finally got back on my tires and the buggy kills. One minute to go so I just called it a night. We weren't racing for points anyway, so it was just some practice. Here's a pic of my Lightning Pro #2(not Lightning 2 Pro) on the track last night.

http://f19motorsports.com/BRC-Races/BRC-Jun-07-2004/brc-jun-07-2004-88.jpg

[PhillyB]

sweeet pic

what body and wheels are those? like the green

[Casey]

sweeet pic

what body and wheels are those? like the green

The body is the Trinity Wasp. Wheels are Hyper 7 PBS style. I won't buy them again. They are cracked beyond belief with CA glue helping to hold them together. It's a shame the Panther tires on them are like new.

[FlashLCD33]

does anyone know if the pro2 3mm 7075 chassis has the same holes as the rtr1?

Yes, they do. My Pro2 chassis lined up perfectly to all of my RTR (not-so-rtr anymore) stuff. The Pro2 chassis has all the holes (only about 4 or so extra) for the Pro2 stuff and the 1 stuff. So, there are about 4 extra holes. Much stiffer with this chassis and the Pro1 braces, you wouldn't believe it. This chassis seems to resist scratches a lot more, and it's a lot tougher.

[Casey]

Here's my buggy broken, but still leadin'. :D

http://f19motorsports.com/BRC-Races/BRC-Jun-07-2004/brc-jun-07-2004-11.jpg

[jabber]

what are you guys using to get your buggys back to clean? I ran mine hard today and its semi caked in mud. I dont wanna take it apart and clean every little crack by hand if i dont have to. Denatured alcahol, buggy blast?

[Casey]

what are you guys using to get your buggys back to clean? I ran mine hard today and its semi caked in mud. I dont wanna take it apart and clean every little crack by hand if i dont have to. Denatured alcahol, buggy blast?


Simple Green works great for mud n' crud.

[PhillyB]

compressed air, most of the time it is dusty/dirty but no big clumps. i have a 'spike' tool, from walmart, that i push the clods out etc.

to get it completely clean i take most of the components off and wipe down with a wet rag, and q-tips. usually it only get real clean when something breaks, as i dont like working on dirty cars.

what are the four extra holes for on the pro2 chassis? i might also get the lower CG battery box from the pro2, this fit as well? i can make it fit lol.

does the trinity wasp body fit? i was told that a proline mp7.5 crowd pleaser body wouldnt fit is this true?

[FlashLCD33]

They're just 4 extra holes for where the *different* series 2 parts would go. Couldn't tell ya what they're for, because I dont have a Pro2/RR2 :rolleyes:

[Casey]

does the trinity wasp body fit? i was told that a proline mp7.5 crowd pleaser body wouldnt fit is this true?


The Trinity Wasp body fits great, as does the Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer for the 7.5. Here's a Crowd Pleazer on my Lightning Pro #1.

http://f19motorsports.com/BRC-Races/BRC-Jun-07-2004/brc-jun-07-2004-43.jpg

[Casey]

For those interested. Here's a link to pictures taken from our June 7th race. The photographer had to take off in the middle of the 2nd heat. All the pics are practice, heat 1 and some heat 2.

http://f19motorsports.com/BRC-Races/BRC-Jun-07-2004/BRC-Jun-07-2004.html

[NitroLightning]

Casey, i have a few issues with the trinity wasp body that i just finished painting. First, how did you line the holes up perfectly like that? Second, does the header burn the paint or plastic were they touch the body?

[Jetcar]

Is there much cutting out to do on the crowd pleaser body, because it's really my least favorite jobs...cutting lexan...???

[Casey]

Casey, i have a few issues with the trinity wasp body that i just finished painting. First, how did you line the holes up perfectly like that? Second, does the header burn the paint or plastic were they touch the body?

I usually cut and trim out my buggy bodies before I paint them since they have the protective overspray film. It's alot easier to get the holes right when you can see what your doing. If all else fails, take your stock Lightning body and set is over the new body as a template. Also, don't cut out the bodies at the front shock tower like the cut lines show. Just go straight in from each side around the tower. No need for that "L" shaped cut that is used for the Kyoshos.

As far as the header burning the paint or plastic, it's not an issue on mine. There's just a bit of black that has been rubbed off the header.

[Casey]

Is there much cutting out to do on the crowd pleaser body, because it's really my least favorite jobs...cutting lexan...???

I'm guessing you've cut bodies before? :confused: Well, you have to cut all the way around the body. But...it's alot less cutting than you'll do on your average car or truck body. If you've got a Dremel tool you can make things easier by using that around the nose/front shock tower area and the engine & fueling holes.

[PhillyB]

just got a hot bodies lightning body and it doesnt fit. i think its for the pro, not the RTR. looks alot cooler and i wish it fit, as i need a new one before this weekend.

[Casey]

just got a hot bodies lightning body and it doesnt fit. i think its for the pro, not the RTR. looks alot cooler and i wish it fit, as i need a new one before this weekend.

The body for the RR & Pro are the same. Is the body pre-painted or clear?

[jabber]

Well I raced my l1 for the first time tonight and it was ok for the first min, then at about the 3 min mark it would start to bog real and not want to take off at all, it was like a tutle getting it going. It idles fine and goes alittle over 3 seconds on the pinch test. But my question is whats up? my lsn is at stock settings and I think its to lean, the manual says 2 1/2 to 3 andim at 3 1/2 and still boggin

[PhillyB]

The body for the RR & Pro are the same. Is the body pre-painted or clear?

this is a body for the lightning2 and rtr2, im guessing. looking at the chassis pics in the newest RC mag the wings are swept back further and seem slightly wider in the rear. its a clear body, no window masks either.

got the 22 hubs on today, requires new upper arms from the pro2. rtr ones worked but the turnbuckles looked bent in the arms. didnt seem right, much better now. cant wait to drive it now with all the upgrades.

[erhardh]

5k/10k/1k per HB's recommendation.
Hey guys, the diff setup recommended by HB is this listed on their manual? I looked all over for this yesterday and didn't see anything.

[Casey]

I think cbr74 may have gotten the information through direct contact with Hot Bodies. There's nothing in my manual either. I run 5000/7000/1000 in my diffs and that works well, too.

[Ooopps]

PhillyB where did you get the 22º degree hubs from?

[PhillyB]

my LHS, im personal friends with them (seeing as how im almost an employee im there so much) and they order what i want. they already had the hubs. i cant remember the part no.

im trying to turn my RTR rr1 into a pro2, and its going well. still waiting on the chassis.

[fanke19]

Jabber, I noticed you asking about cleaning the buggies after running. I found that the battery/servo tray comes out super easy...less than five minutes...

http://www.f19motorsports.com/forum/Purple%20Dye/lightning-3.jpg

Then I just use the hose on the buggy, I have stainless hardware however, so any standard mild steel fasteners might corrode on you. For grimy stuff that you would usually use that expensive Nitro spray cleaner, I use this...

http://www.f19motorsports.com/forum/partscleaner.jpg

[Casey]

fanke19 - Welcome to the Lightning forum....Good cleaning tip. Got any pics of your whole buggy?

[PhillyB]

i dont recommend either of those ways to clean the buggy. im sorry and i dont mean to be mean but some may see this as open season to use whatever they want. i dont want newbies spraying their buggies with everything. a guy here decided he could clean his buggy with brake cleaner, and got it in his receiver and servos. he had to buy new ones. thats around 150 or so, FM receiver and 945MG.

brake cleaner is not the same as nitro clean. it stinks, its fairly caustic, and i dont like the residue it leaves. be careful where you spray this as i am not sure if it is ok for plastics. some cleaning materials can soften plastics, others can remove the anodizing from the aluminum. trust me i have seen it. someone was using simple green that was another color or something and it stripped the finish off his purple shocks. if you dont believe me i can take a pic, as its still at my LHS.

also the diffs, axles, bearings, center diff gear are made from steel, and all can rust easily. i know of people who do this, but usually follow up with alot of compressed air and then a tremendous soaking with WD-40, then air again. stainless steel screws are nice, but id rather have stronger 12.9 black oxide screws.

the easiest way to clean is to remove the radio tray, clean this with a brush or rag. then remove the engine and pipe, clean these with the same, being careful not to get debris in the engine (i usually leave the pipe/filter/glow plug in for this). i also remove the tank and wipe this with a wet rag. the chassis can be cleaned with a rag/brush. usually i only hit mine with compressed air after each race. if i work on it, i clean it up like this.

i dont mean to chastise or sound harsh, but i work on alot of trucks/cars that have been ruined by user error.

[jabber]

denatured alcahol, drys with no residue and works awsome!

[fanke19]

This is what my buggy looked like in March of this year after owning it two months. I painted it up fresh for the trip down to Boggy Creek Raceway in Florida, and well, Casey you know how long this lasted!
http://www.f19motorsports.com/Rides/f19-ride2-1.jpg

This is my most current setup with purple paint, wing, and wheels...
http://www.f19motorsports.com/forum/f19flame/f19flame-13.jpg

[Saboteur]

Well I raced my l1 for the first time tonight and it was ok for the first min, then at about the 3 min mark it would start to bog real and not want to take off at all, it was like a tutle getting it going. It idles fine and goes alittle over 3 seconds on the pinch test. But my question is whats up? my lsn is at stock settings and I think its to lean, the manual says 2 1/2 to 3 andim at 3 1/2 and still boggin


3 1/2 for LSN is kinda sluggish. I have mine at 3 turns out. You may also need to tune the HSN as well and not just the low end. I just leaned the high end 1/8th on a turn after break in and what a difference it made. Just don't overheat it as its hard to restart the engine. Also the heat from the carb repels the fuel in the fuel line. Wish I had a plastic carb.

[jabber]

i have to be almost 3 3/4 turns or the lsn does nothing but bog, i tried to set it up today and it wound up at 3 3/4, anything under 3 1/2 is not even driveable. O well i give up, anyone want a stock L1 motor, just broke in, less then half a tank, 65 bucks

[Saboteur]

What the setting on the HSN? I ran mine flawlessly two sundays ago. Never stalled, got overheated and fuel economy is excellent for a .21. Set both needles back to factory settings, tune the LSN, then tune the HSN slightly. It will work dude; Thats how I tuned mine last time. Don't give up on it yet. :)

[Saboteur]

Anyone know how to remove the stock paint on the RTR1? I've tried everything and nothing works. Actually nitro fuel and nail polish remove seems to remove some but HB musta done 10coats or something. I wanted to replace all the black and the red line with all peal red paint. Would look nice with the stock white bottom but since this stuff aint coming off, I'll just buy a new body. *sigh* :(

[jabber]

I messed mine up trying to take it off, so I did just taht, buy a new body. And the stock motor just dosent have it for what im looking for, I was running almost stock hsn settings also. I just need more low end power, something the stock motor lacks big time.

[Casey]

I believe the stock Lightning RR & Pro (1st generation) bodies were painted with Parma Faskolor or something similar. I'm pretty sure the RR bodies received a sealing coat(Faskoat) and the Pro bodies did not. The paint on the Pro bodies would wash right off after being soaked in soapy water, while the RR bodies' paint stays on. I've read about several others with the same result, as well as my own experiences with people I know and my own stock bodies.

[CRSMP5]

im back from denver.. while i was there i got to meet a few of the members here.. dont know their names though.. but i was checkign out the denver track.. very very sweet.. ill post pics once i get them uploaded.. i also wanted to say thanks for the warm friendly feeling you all gave to me.. i had to bail.. ran out of fre time and had to go back to work :(

the original pro1/rr1 were fastcolor, but mar 2003 were oil based and could not be washed out..

a pro2/rr2 will not fit a rr1/pro1 the stone gaurds are different.. you can mod a pro1/rr1 to fit a pro2/rr2 though..

[CRSMP5]

http://www.ratraceway.com/ is the track info in denver..
i highly suggest if your close to it to check them out.. they were very nice and friendly and the track impressive for the size it is. this would be a good track for a low rpm high torque engine like a s-25 from a savage.

i added the arrows to the pics below.. the hardest part of this track is knowing the direction your supposed to be going.

http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/1.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/2.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/3.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/4.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/5.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/6.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/7.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/8.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/9.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/10.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/11.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/rattrack/12.jpg

[Duster_360]

I got my LP1 early Nov '03 and they had changed to a diff kind of paint - it is something that will not come off with just water - believe me, I've tried - soaked it overnight in the hottest water my water heater would put out - did not faze the paint in the least. The plastic was also changed before mine - I have danced it on the rear wing many times and no probs, no cracks, and certainly no shattering. My wheels have lasted long enough to just about wear out the orig tires too with no craks or probs. The other thing that was changed is the alum thingys that early on were brake bias adjusters were not in my pro. I even bought another small parts bag hoping to get them to no avail.

Some have said you can use brake fluid to get enamel or lacquer based paint off a shell, but I've never tried it. Might ask in the paint forum.

[Saboteur]

Jabber- Today I just tried an RB #6 standard plug with the stock engine. Big improvement and it seems to run noticably faster. Besides, I found out the stock plug had burned out since my last run. I'm gonna keep mine till I need to do a rebuild. Sry things aren't working out for you. If you lived near me or vice versa, I'd gladly help you out. :)

[Jetcar]

I know how to set rear toe - on the blocks. I'm running the 54. Another guy told me to change to the 59. My track is quite rough and bumpy with a lot of loose rocky stuff off the racing line...

But also is there an easy way to check front toe without a proper jig? As I dont have one...I thought about measuring the length of the turnbuckle and comparing it to people here...but depending on other facters I don't think it would be accurate...Any ideas...

[jabber]

I dont think its that bad, but im used to seeing sirios, hypers, and novas, compared tho those, its bad

[Casey]

Just got my latest RC Driver mag. There's a two-page ad(pg.114-115) for a new "Lightning Stadium" race truck based off the Lightning buggy chassis. Looks nice. There will be two versions - RR & Pro. The RR will have the .26 with Jump Start. The Pro will have BILLET ALUMINUM suspension arms. Nothing listed on HB's website yet.

[Casey]

Here's some more info:

Specs -
Length: 20.7"(526mm)
Width: 16.4"(416mm)
Wheel Base: 14.5"(369mm)
Tire Size:2.9"x5.7"(74mm x 144mm)


Lightning Stadium RR Features:
*Long Wheelbase Main Chassis
*Composite, Long Suspension Arms
*4mm Front/Rear Shock Towers
*Front CVA Joints
*Front/Rear Long Shocks
*Full Rubber Sealed Bearings
*Racing Wheels & Tires
*Low Profile Stadium Truck Body
*Front/Rear Sway Bars
*Hardened Differential Gears
*Full Set of Radio Gear(including High-Torque steering servo and 12 "AA" batteries)
*.26 Power Factory Engine w/Jump-Start Starting System

Lightning Stadium PRO Features:
*Long Wheelbase Main Chassis
*ALUMINUM, Long Suspension Arms
*4mm Front/Rear Shock Towers
*Front CVA Joints
*Front/Rear Long Shocks
*Full Rubber Sealed Bearings
*Racing Wheels & Tires
*Low Profile Stadium Truck Body
*Front/Rear Sway Bars
*Hardened Differential Gears

[jabber]

My stock motor just went bye bye to a new hyper 21 so if anyone wnats a stock motor, half a gallon thru it, 60 bucks and its yours, pullstart still works great

[gr8taz nitro]

Ok folks, need a little help here. Since I've put my new motor on, I have now burned through 4 sets of clutch bell bearings. All have shelled out in various stages from completely come apart and wallowed out the flywheel and melted the clutch springs, to come apart and seized to the clutch bell, with various stages in between.

I know most of it's the engine because it's a stronger engine than the stock 21 bb that came on my pro, but I'm at a loss here. I bought an ofna clutch shim kit so that I would have the correct setup, on a stock flywheel with a hotbodies 14t clutchbell. I'm running a novarossi rx21 5p turbo engine and it flat out screams which is why I geared up a tooth and I'm thinkin I need to go up one more tooth on the bell.

I've used everything from cheap duratrax bearings to a set of boca bearings, steel and ceramic. Any advice would be great.

[CRSMP5]

you have something put together wrong... ive run stock hb shoes and springs till worn out 1 year of use, most of it on a picco 26 with 18t cb...

with ofna cb, and the stock flywheel you MUST use the piolet shaft extension in the ofna shim kit.. if you goto a savage flywheel you will not require the extension..

[Duster_360]

I'm installing an OS 21RG in a LP1 roller I bought, so I ordered a complete HB LP1 clutch, flywheel, shoes, crankshaft nut and springs. HB does not sell the tapered collet. I ordered one from RC Boyz after explaining the problem and I believe he said it was an Ofna collet - have not gotten it yet. Am I going to have probs or is this going to be alright?? Thanks

[CRSMP5]

to run the ofna vented cb you must use the ofna piolet shaft extension with the stock flywheel.. the 5$ shim kit i sworth its weight in gold for 5$ for all you can use it for..

spyder send me the pm i emptied out my box.. sorry did not know it was full..

[CRSMP5]

i think ive found my next mt....

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstaduim_logo.jpg

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightsdadiumpro.jpg
http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstadium_w_body.jpg
Lightning Stadium Pro comes with a stylish pre-printed and trimmed body

55005 1/8 Scale Lightning Stadium Pro (RTR)

Kit includes:
• .26 Power Factory Engine
• Long Wheelbase Main Chassis
• Aluminum, Long Suspension Arms
• 4mm F/R Shock Towers
• Front CVA Joints
• F/R Long Shocks
• Full Rubber Sealed Bearing
• Racing Wheels & Tires
• Low Profile Stadium Truck Body
• F/R Sway Bars
• Hardened Differential Gears
• Radio and Radio Gear
• High Torque Steering Servo
• Fuel Bottle
• Glow Starter
• 12 "AA" Batteries
• Plug Wrench

Equipment Needed:
• 20% Nitro Car Fuel
• 7.2V Battery for Jump-Starter

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_sdadium_wide.jpg
The lightning Stadium is intended for racing and has been designed to be ultra wide and low, for excellent handling characteristics

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_fuel.jpg
The fuel tank has been widened and lowered, keeping the same size and lowering the center of gravity

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_brakes.jpg
A closer look at the braking system reveals dual front brake rotors and front and rear adjustable bias to stop the truck in a hurry. This angle also shows the low profile upper deck with a laydown style steering servo type mount.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/ligh_stadium_front_arm.jpg
Super long aluminum front suspension arms provide a smooth ride and keep good consistent traction at all times. The hub carrier sports roost deflectors to help keep the outdrives in good condition.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_rear_arm.jpg
Super long aluminum rear suspension arms keep the traction flowing and the truck in control. The rear hub carriers have a dirt shield to keep harmful dirt and debris from reaching the internals of the axles.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_brace.jpg
The Lightning Stadium comes heavily fortified with a beefy rear chassis brace for lateral support

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_squat_block.jpg
Interchangeable squat blocks allow for fine tuning of the suspension. Front and rear sway bars are standard.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_chassis.jpg
The chassis is longer than its buggy brother to further smooth out the handling characteristics


notice how it has proline bowties on it :D

[CRSMP5]

they also look to have gone back to the pro 1 radio box, and c hubs..

[Saboteur]

Wow now thats pretty sweet. Really nice work. :)

[PhillyB]

thats cool, guess ill be racing against that soon in the MT class, wonder how much the RTR will be. if its cheap im sure my LHS will get lots of them. they love the HB stuff for some reason.

[CRSMP5]

look at whats included.. it is rtr.. no pro version.. they did it all to that.. thats off hb's webpages.. id like to see a pro version with no engine electroncs.. but the rtr looks to have billit arms in the pics.. :)

[Ooopps]

I don't think the RR has aluminum arms, in the latest add of RC Driver, They have the pro coming with aluminum arms plus some other aluminum goodies, no radio, while the RR has plastic arms, radio etc. In my opionion, I would opt for the RR, just because I am not a fan of Aluminum Arms (think they add to much weight and hinge pin holes where out way to fast, plus the cost is rediculous for what you get.)

[Casey]

According to the magazine ad, there will be "RR" & "PRO" versions. I posted this near the middle of this page. Didn't anyone see it? :confused:

[NitroLightning]

Not to change the subject. But does anyone know it this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEPH9&P=7 will fit in the Lightning Pro 1? If not, where would i get the correct engine mounts?
thanks

[charlesd]

It will fit. The engine is a direct drop in for the Hpi Savage so it will be a direct fit on the Lightning.

[CRSMP5]

direct fit.. and went to barns and noble today.. still old one on shelf.. so waiting to see the ad still.. im just going by the hb page that all my info on it came from..

[Jetcar]

so does anyone know how to set front toe without a special jig?

[CRSMP5]

i use a piece of plexy glass, a square, mark it out on the plexy glass, mark center of wheel, on both sides, then use a tape measure between the same points on the lines to see how towed out/towed in it is.. i stick as close to -1/8" on toe in as i can get.. that way under WOT its close to 0

[Saboteur]

Anyone know whats a good stiff spring to use with a stock HB RTR1 and 50wt shock oil? BTW I stripped off the black paint using nitro fuel (old fuel) and replaced it with racing red. Looks really cool. Also how much for two alum chassis braces? Do other brands for other buggies fit?

[NitroLightning]

Thanks for the info guys...
I have decided that to buy the trinity sirio .27pro instead of the Rb WS72 because of the power and the mear fact that i know that the trinity can do almost 40k rpm. If the Rb ws72 is a better engine let me know.
Also, i have a few more questions.

1. How many tooth clutchbell should i get with this engine? If it is higher then 14, then what brand should i go with to ensure a propper fit, no shims if possible. Im planning keeping everything else the same if possible. If i cant, what parts do i need to make everything fit correctly?

2. Should i use aluminum shoes or standard composite, also what springs?

[fanke19]

Regarding setting toe in...I made a pretty cheap, pretty accurate setup. I use music CD's(cheap burnable ones). I use this setup on my Tmaxx. I fasten them tightly with the wheel nuts, then measure front distances, and rear distances. CD's run about $0.50 a piece...so it's the cheapest home grown setup I've figured out...aside from having a spare set of wheels lying around without tires on them.

http://www.f19motorsports.com/forum/toe-in.jpg

[CRSMP5]

the rb ws7II is like 42k.. 15t ofna vented cb, savage flywheel, mugen composite with 1.0 springs, rb o63 pipe and long header is pretty quick.. i just did this set up for someone and it has great bottom end and my 16t cb ws7II will pull away at the end of a 10ft drag race.. i was off tuning it last night teaching newbie mike from central how it works..

[PhillyB]

i easily out ran a ofna buggy with a .27 on an oval track here in town. i think his was off on gearing, but it has no top end. its all off the line torque in the super big blocks. stick to high reving .21s in the buggys, and monster big blocs in the MT's. also if you ever decide to race (which you should if you have any tracks close by) you will have to buy another engine.

I run an RB .28 in my supermaxx, and a crono RS7 .21 in the buggy, out pace everything in each class with each.

a high revving buggy engine will have a higher top MPH than a .27 too. 40k out of a .27 is a pipe dream, more like 30-35 tops, at least when its strapped to a car. it might hit 40K on a test stand right before the connecting rod flies though the engine block. ive actually seen an engine that happened to, a XTM 24.7.

[Jetcar]

Fanke19 - Top tip there...Everyone has some CD's laying around that they stuffed up when burning....well I do anyway.

[CRSMP5]

another reason to get a 7$ savage flywheel.. that way when you have a old engine sitting ready to drop in incase ya wanna do some bashing vs using you rprecious race engine its like 4 bolts to swap it out..

[scraps z]

Please help...

Looking for an online retailer to order up some HB Lightning Pro 2 parts for my buddy. Specifically looking for a fuel tank.

Any ideas where I can obtain the tank for the Pro 2?

Thanks in advance!

[Casey]

Please help...

Looking for an online retailer to order up some HB Lightning Pro 2 parts for my buddy. Specifically looking for a fuel tank.

Any ideas where I can obtain the tank for the Pro 2?

Thanks in advance!

Atomic Motorsports has Lightning 2 Pro parts. You have to call to order and they take PayPal.

http://www.atomicmotorsports.com/sub-5.htm

[CRSMP5]

i ordered 2 black wings, 2 pro2 wing mounts, and a clear pro2 body wed afternoon from them.. had them in my hands by 11am today.. got to love their shipping.. very fast and good to deal with.. but you have to call them, and they will invoice you via paypal.. the last time i ordered from them was on a sat before noon an dhad the stuff on monday by 11am, im in ohio, they in florida..

via phone.. you can try browns.. stock lots of things.. lacking on pro2 stuff though.. 330-532-1783

[Saboteur]

Hey guys I may be getting an Ofna hyper .21 8 port non p/s soon. Will this drop right in with the current clutch and engine mount setup in my stock RTR 1? If a new clutch setup is needed what should I get? I'm thinking of getting some alum chassis braces and stiffer shock springs upon my next visit to the LHS. Also more RB plugs to use with the .21BB. It seems to run really great with it compared to the stock plug.

[Casey]

I ran a Hyper .21 in my buggy last year. Dropped right in and I used the stock clutch set-up with no problems.

[CRSMP5]

will drop in with no issues.. i have a 8 port race in my lp1 that has a pull start on it ..

the only issue i know of with the stock flywheel is the use of ofna clutch bells, as ive stated a few times it requires a ofna shim kit for the piolet shaft extension. using a 7$ stock savage rtr25 (3 shoe) flywheel eliminates this need and will allow the ofna cb to fit with proper shimming. all i can get local are ofna cbs so it just makes it easier to be a direct fit, i dislike using a extinsion.

[Duster_360]

I bought a LP1 roller and it was in worse shape than I was led to believe. I have everything fixed except a drive hex and wheel nut - I had to cut the wheel nut off to get it apart - the male thread is destroyed on the drive hex (part the wheel nut screws onto).

So, I need a wheel nut and the alum piece the wheel nut threads onto so I can be running again. It has been on BO from HB for several weeks, and I have given up on them. Anybody got any ideas where I could find these parts? I think this is C8039, but that p/n may be for the rtr. The manual shows a 5mm and 6.7mm (C8040) hex wheel adapter, but neither measurement makes any sense. Thanks for any help!!

[Jetcar]

I'm looking at buying a secondhand Novarrossi .21. Not sure of the model yet.I'm still waiting for his email, to clarify model? use and condition of the engine? He wants AUD $100 for it, which is approx $68 US. But are these an easy fit to a Pro1?

[CRSMP5]

browns or austin town hobby have the hex and nut.. FYI kyosho is the same thread even!!!

browns 330-532-1783 not positive but i bet they do

austin town hobbies 330-793-9233 has kyosho (pack of 3 to be exact from someone needing a nut how i know they fit) and hb ones.. you want to talk to V or bruce, tell them chris said to sell it to you also they dislike mail order but i feel if ya got it and someone needs it do it.. why you mention my name....

the 6.3mm is the rear, 5mm is front also.. the measurement is how fat/thick teh hex is.. it offsets the rear wheels..

[CRSMP5]

browns has them in stock

[Duster_360]

Big thanks, I'll call them in the am. Thanks for explaining that the diff is the drive hex thickness.

[FlashLCD33]

Does anybody use a rotostart on a Lightning? I wan't to get one, then i'd just get an extra backplate for when I get a Savage SS. I know it will fit the engine, but a friend brought to my attention that the manifold might be right in the way?

[Saboteur]

will drop in with no issues.. i have a 8 port race in my lp1 that has a pull start on it ..

the only issue i know of with the stock flywheel is the use of ofna clutch bells, as ive stated a few times it requires a ofna shim kit for the piolet shaft extension. using a 7$ stock savage rtr25 (3 shoe) flywheel eliminates this need and will allow the ofna cb to fit with proper shimming. all i can get local are ofna cbs so it just makes it easier to be a direct fit, i dislike using a extinsion.

Are those the shims included in the RTR? These are two bronze colored round metal shims. I'm just gonna run the stock clutch setup and no other clutchbells or flywheel. Waiting to see when he will sell me the 8 port. Meantime I'm enjoying my ride. :) Anyone know the average price for two alum chassis braces for it? I heard kyosho or even a Mugen brace can fit.

[CRSMP5]

when the bronze bushig wears out must use shim.. but no the shim kit is a ofna thing and like 5$ it includes enough shims to do all kinds of things.. like shiming the bell cranks so they do not move up and down after installing bearings..


ive seen roto start used on it with no issue and as matter of fact the rtr2 comes with the jump start..

[CRSMP5]

no problem duster.

browns and atomic motorsport (links all over the past few pages, but they carry pro2 stuff that can be made to fit pro1/rtr1) are the 2 you want to keep in file for parts.. brons has probally every part except wingmounts, bough tlast one yesterday, that a lightning uses for v1 of the cars.. v2 parts hard to get still but atomic seems to have that under control..

[Casey]

Does anybody use a rotostart on a Lightning? I wan't to get one, then i'd just get an extra backplate for when I get a Savage SS. I know it will fit the engine, but a friend brought to my attention that the manifold might be right in the way?


I installed a Roto-Start on my Dad's Lightning RR with no problems and a buddy of mine (Fanke19) has the Roto-Start on his Lightning Pro.

[luvmypro]

I use the rotostart on my pro 1 and my pro 2 with no problems. Let me know if anyone is interested!!!!! I have a LP1 and a LP2. The LP one has everyhting but a motor. The LP2 has everything. Both come with Futaba controllers.

The LP1 Has JR Racing Servos (High torque steel gears on the steering).
Savage hardened gears in the diffs, brand new center diff, all new upper and lower arms, all new hinge pins, and has newer solid rims.

The LP2 has Hitech Servos (645 for the steering, I forget what Hitech servo # the throttle has (It's a really quick response though). Picco 26 with about a 1 1/4 gal though it. Futaba Controller, Venom Fail Safe, Extra set of street tires, Roto Start, hump pack battery pack, charger, tires are also in perfect shape. I only ran this car for about 6 hours total (the Picco was originally in my LP1). This car is in perfect shape, the body is also in perfect shape.

Reason I'm selling it??? I bought a quad a couple months ago and I want to get out of the hobby, I don't have time for it any more. Again, the LP1 is in great shape also, it just needs a motor and wing/mount and is ready to race.

I'll sale all for $700. I have a bag stuffed full of parts also. If something was scuffed on the LP1, I replaced it, parts are all still good. If you're interested, let me know. Thanks!

[lp1proracer]

whats up fellow racers and bashers? I just got into buggies been racing 2wd nitro stadium trucks and now im hooked. Anyway as you no the stock motor doesn't get enough out of the hole to get out of its own way IMO.BTW i have a pro 1 w/5/7/1 in the diffs and changed to the savage o-rings and I did go to the 1.1 mm mugen springs so i got more spool up before take off but its just not enoiugh to make the big triples but i did take 2nd in the b-main this weekend w/ stock tires anyway, I just would like everyones opinion on motor choice
I race on a pretty big track in phila pa you get about 8 laps in 5 min and average mph about 13 to 14 there is 2 good stretches for WOT but other than that it is very tech I do fairly well on the top but have a lot of trouble coming out of the turns
I broke in w/ 20% wonder if i could go to 30 if that would help don't rket for another
Btw the name is John and I race at www.hobbyhut.com

[CRSMP5]

id say a 8 port is a good start if pull start is required.. else a rb or os and a starter box..

[Saboteur]

id say a 8 port is a good start if pull start is required.. else a rb or os and a starter box..

His has no pull start. I don't mind carrying my starter box around despite the xtra weight. I have a big backpack that fits everything in there. I do like the stock engine with the tuning and plug setup that I have used for the last two romps. It does seem noticably faster but since I'll do some racing soon the 8 port will be a good thing to start with.

[Casey]

whats up fellow racers and bashers? I just got into buggies been racing 2wd nitro stadium trucks and now im hooked. Anyway as you no the stock motor doesn't get enough out of the hole to get out of its own way IMO.BTW i have a pro 1 w/5/7/1 in the diffs and changed to the savage o-rings and I did go to the 1.1 mm mugen springs so i got more spool up before take off but its just not enoiugh to make the big triples but i did take 2nd in the b-main this weekend w/ stock tires anyway, I just would like everyones opinion on motor choice
I race on a pretty big track in phila pa you get about 8 laps in 5 min and average mph about 13 to 14 there is 2 good stretches for WOT but other than that it is very tech I do fairly well on the top but have a lot of trouble coming out of the turns
I broke in w/ 20% wonder if i could go to 30 if that would help don't rket for another
Btw the name is John and I race at www.hobbyhut.com

A few weeks ago I dropped an Ofna/PICCO Comp .21 in one of my Lightning Pros. This engine normally sells for around $200, but Ace Hardware Hobbies has it on sale for $140. It was an easy break-in, and the engine is very reliable and pretty fast. http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_115_168&products_id=2517

My other suggestion would be the O.S. 21 RG. I've got one in my other LP with a Nova head on it. This is a really nice engine for $110, and has ALOT more power than the stock engine.

[jabber]

yea john i felt the same thing. I chose to purchase a hyper 21 off ebay for 100 bucks for my car, i think that should fix my problems.

[Duster_360]

Thanks again for the tip on Browns - I had checked everything online I could find (had checked atomic) before I put the drive hex on order with Ricky's. I called Browns after lunch today and a pair of drives hexes are headed my way. He (never caught the guys name) asked how I found out about them and I told him you put me on to them. Definitely will go in my file for future parts needs - he was helpful and I'll be calling back in the future. I should be running again in a few days weather permitting - been really wet here so far. Thanks again!

[CRSMP5]

hey its not problem if it was a guy it was the owner jeff.. his wife also works there.. they are great to deal with and if you were local the prices are even better if you pay the 35$ per year membership.. min 1$ savings per package.. i shopping trip there for me is a 25$ savings easily.. the lightning wall i slike 4ft long and 5 ft tall just for a idea of how many parts they have for it..

[charlesd]

While we are on the subject of parts, I need c8071-1 (7075 front suspension holder).

A lot of places have it except they do not ship to canada. Just to give you guys an idea, the part at e-hobbies is worth 4$ but they charge 29$ for shipping. Atomic does not ship international, towerhobbies does not have it, stormer has the regular plastic one, etc...

any help appreciated.

[eharper177]

I need a parts listing so I can order the front susp for L2. Atomic needs a list of LP1 parts to cross reference, anyone know where I can find a list ASAP?

[lp1proracer]

yea john i felt the same thing. I chose to purchase a hyper 21 off ebay for 100 bucks for my car, i think that should fix my problems.
Everyone at the track seems to have alot of tuning probs w/ this motor. AAnd Iv'e noticed that the top end is just about the same on thias and the stocker

[lp1proracer]

A few weeks ago I dropped an Ofna/PICCO Comp .21 in one of my Lightning Pros. This engine normally sells for around $200, but Ace Hardware Hobbies has it on sale for $140. It was an easy break-in, and the engine is very reliable and pretty fast. http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=108_115_168&products_id=2517

My other suggestion would be the O.S. 21 RG. I've got one in my other LP with a Nova head on it. This is a really nice engine for $110, and has ALOT more power than the stock engine.
Do you feel that the picco is a little better out of the hole or the RG? Is it ok to use the stock CB w/ the picco or RG and if i use the rg do i need to wait for the (p) engine which I think is pilot shaft

[Casey]

My RG might have a little more punch on the bottom(especially when it had the 063 pipe), but the top end is all Picco. I was out doing some speed runs with my Dad on the street with his stocker against my Picco. The Picco's got to have a good 8-10 mph over his stock engine. Both are geared the same.

I'm using the stock clutch bell on both the RG and Picco. You want the pilot shaft(P) version of the O.S. I see that Tower does not have them in stock now, but RC Zone Central does for $109.99.

http://www.zonecentral.org/

[lp1proracer]

My RG might have a little more punch on the bottom(especially when it had the 063 pipe), but the top end is all Picco. I was out doing some speed runs with my Dad on the street with his stocker against my Picco. The Picco's got to have a good 8-10 mph over his stock engine. Both are geared the same.

I'm using the stock clutch bell on both the RG and Picco. You want the pilot shaft(P) version of the O.S. I see that Tower does not have them in stock now, but RC Zone Central does for $109.99.

http://www.zonecentral.org/
what about using 30% instead of 20 you think I'll get any more out of the hole w/ the stocker ? I already have an 063 ofna and I put in the 1.1 mugen C-springs which are a little stronger to allow more spool up before it rolls that seemed to give me a little more out of the hole

[CRSMP5]

contact browns on the 4$ plastic suspention holder... they may ship it but shipping will be 5-10$ im sure.. the 7075 piece is 30$ and no one i know except atomic has/had that.

front suspention of a pro2.. only different pieces are the upper arms c8005-1, bolts/ball for it (top) c8134, and the c hub c8011-1 everything else is the same, well works just fine aka same dementions just different weight savings cut outs.

[Casey]

what about using 30% instead of 20 you think I'll get any more out of the hole w/ the stocker ? I already have an 063 ofna and I put in the 1.1 mugen C-springs which are a little stronger to allow more spool up before it rolls that seemed to give me a little more out of the hole

I don't think 30% is going to make a very noticeable difference on the stock engine, but I've never tried it. Maybe someone else here has.

[eharper177]

I just got off the phone with atomic motorsports. He said you got the last 2 C8134's he had!! That's all I need for the conversion.
Bob is a great guy.....LOTS of great info!!!

[FlashLCD33]

I got my 7075 front suspension holder from www.horizonhobby.com . Just search for hbsc8 and click under parts (100 some it says) and go. It's in numerical order.

[Ooopps]

Hehe, I got the LP2 Front End Conversion from Atomic today...

On another note, Bought a Fantom FR21 for the lightning. Nice engine for the price, have about a gallon thru it, still acts like new, compression, etc.

[CRSMP5]

i did not buy them..

[FlashLCD33]

I got my rotostart in today. Got it installed and tests it out.. completely rocks. Makes hot restarts pie, and the engine will start as fast as you can push the button. Easily reached from behind the buggy.

[CRSMP5]

i got one of the pro2 clear bods from atomic.. ive been wanting a clear one for a while.. i figure this works great for a lightning pro.. :D by the way.. there is absolutly NO orange used on this.. yea it look sorange.. and in person looks orange.. but no orange was sprayed.. its a custom effect that happens when backing certain colors of createx..

http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/lp2_newbod/1.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/lp2_newbod/2.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/lp2_newbod/3.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/lp2_newbod/4.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/lp2_newbod/5.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/lp2_newbod/6.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/lp2_newbod/7.jpg

the tires are also from them (panther) and look pretty sweet cannot wait to try them out this weekend..

[FlashLCD33]

That's really wierd about the paint.

Are there any weak spots in the buggy you think? I think i've upgraded every one, but I'm not sure.

[Saboteur]

I don't think 30% is going to make a very noticeable difference on the stock engine, but I've never tried it. Maybe someone else here has.

I run blue thunder 20% and an RB Plug. Also by adjusting some of the trims on my radio and a little tuning, my stocker is a heck lot faster offline and has better top end. For those who have problems with hot restarts or so, simply back off both needles 1/8th of a turn or more. That keeps the buggy running superb for a whole tank and even through couple refills. Remember this is just a slight adjustment. Running on grass (the really thick stuff) does a lot work on the engines and it will overheat at those settings optimized for high speed. For now, I'm just going to purchase a front standard brace because the LHS's are out of the alum ones (for all brands of buggies) and I don't really need them. May also get the Ofna 063 inline polished pipe since everyone seems to like it. I'm mainly going for the looks. With my current setup I have more bottom end than before but the need for power is endless :D. These will be my graduation gifts to myself and also since I'm not buying a new pet due to the loss of my hamster, Nora. R.I.P little one. :(

[Saboteur]

Also, here is my Lightning. Won't be buying my boss's ofna 8 port engine because A) he's been having heavy tuning problems with it at the moment and B) I spanked him with my stock engine. It's all in the setup and tuning baby! :cool:

[CRSMP5]

you rright on the hot restart.. its due to the carb heat.. a simple forever fix is a savage s-25 composite carb that does not get as hot..

the color effect of orange.. i found it on my cuda savage...
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/cuda2/more/2.jpg
and it is a sweet color in person..

8 port tuning issues is common the best fix i know of is the os 20e carb.. find a good used one on ebay for the best deal.. also your buggy looks great..

weak spots... thats my pro2.. none ive found like pro 1 only weak spot on both is wing mounts..

[FlashLCD33]

Are those 4mm 7075 towers?

I had 3mm 6061s that come on the RR, but I bent the crap out of them. So, 3mm 7075s. Well, didn't hold up much better. The rear is fine but the front bends on the first rollover. So, I got a longer hinge pin and bolted 2 3mms together and they're fine.

So far I have:
Lightning RR1
Pro2 chassis
6mm 6061/7075 front tower
3mm 7075 rear tower
Pro2 wing mount
Kyosho blue rear springs
Pro1 front / rear 7075 chassis braces (aka- anti bending rods)
Motorsaver filter
645MG steering servo
625MG throttle servo

I also have 7075 machined steering knuckles, but I haven't put them on yet since I haven't broken the stockers.

See any things I still need to get?

[Saboteur]

Flash you're the only one busting up your buggy some how, some way. :p

CRSMP5-Thnx. How much for the S25 carb? You think an OS, RB, or Novarossi carb would be a great fit for the stock .21BB? I'm betting it can get little more performance from something like that, but all I really need is a composite carb. I'm having too much fun running my buggy at max power and beating my boss's Ofna. :P I advised him to get the OS carb since the stock on his Ofna is a pisser.

[charlesd]

What are you guys using as a shock set-up ?

I'm still using the stock springs and oil -- I called hotbodies and the oil is 25 weight. Our track is pretty bumpy -- i was thinking of using 35wt with the same springs :confused:

[CRSMP5]

i like the stock shock set up till your fine tuning it in for specific things..

a savage s-25 carb.. id find a new used engine on ebay and buy it for the head and carb

well i finally broke a new part today on the pro1.. never broke one before.. the gas tank!

i also broke a shock end of the pro2 today, guess what.. they reused the old shock ends from a pro1/rtr1 on them...

todays races.. i went and checked out a new track a hour north of me.. ended up running the pro2 over the pro1 due to breaking the fuel tank during the hr long practice time..

quailifier 1 1st time out with over powered buggy geared all wrong fro track.. came in last..

qualifier 2 dnf due to broken shock end..

b main 2nd got bumped to a main, this was a 10 min race.. me and newbie mike raced hard for 2nd/3rd positions he has a pro1, it was a who goofed up 1st type of race.. durign a major bad crash on my part i knocked off the pressure line off the pipe.. and the end out of the motor saver air filter.. on a ws7II engine.. have to take it apart..

a main i ended up racing newbie mikes.. he failed the check your wheel nuts test and lost a wheel on the last lap of b main where he would have had me.. of the 10 starting with a new buggie i run once in a while i came in 4th... :)

qualifier

[Saboteur]

I'm running Trinity 30wt shock oil, using the droop screws and preload clips. Great for getting some good air off small bumps.

[Blacktiger]

charlesd : Currently I am running 37.5wt oil in the front and 40wt in the rear with the stock springs. Car is pretty dialed on my track. Oil choice usualy has to be fine tuned to your track. Ask around at your track and see what most people are running. Or ask the guys that seem to be hooked up.

[PhillyB]

crsmp5 how did you break your gas tank?

i broke mine as well. im guessing the chassis flexed and it popped. ruined my day.

got a -1 tank (pro version) and it didnt want to fit my rtr. whats the difference?

almost had top qualifier (against a k2, driven by the #1 guy in points) got 2nd, then ended up one point from 2nd overall to get 3rd overall. real good day. buggy running great.

[CRSMP5]

the pro 2 tank will not fit a pro1 due to anti flex rod and different bolt hole locations.. and fuel tank was full. and was doing long air and ive read somewhere that impact with full tank of fuel will make it explode.. so they say that for big air competitions to use 1/2 tank of fuel to prevent this.. so im assuming this is how it broke.. cause there is nothing out of wack on anti bend rods or anything else.. usually when i do a stupid thing i snap the head off the bolt in the chassis to the anti bend rod..

[Saboteur]

Anyone buy threaded shocks for their ride? I may invest in some. Also what about the ofna one piece pipe for top end? Anyone like the performance on that?

[ram15racer]

Hay Black tiger,
Are you going to the Ohio state race this weekend at DC? If so look me up. I see that the shock oil helped you out. Got a JP in the car now, and it is alot better that the stock P5. This thing rips.

Saboteur,
I dont like threaded shocks. it takes to much time to change and you might not get them quite right. Just clip it and go.

Dane

[jabber]

Its been fun guys and everything i learned about my buggy i learned here but gas isint for me. So anyone looking fora lightning rr1 pm me, 210 shipped, half a gallon thru it! Also have spair parts if anyone wants them.

[NitroLightning]

does anyone know of an awsome pipe for the Sirio .27 pro engine? And also, whick turbo plug do i want for it?

[FlashLCD33]

Well I was at a friends house bashing along, and when i brought it inside to refuel I noticed the left rear tire was leaning wierd. So when i looked at it, The hinge pin was halfway out and the little plastic spacer was missing. A quick fix of 2 washers and a nut (acting as a washer) and all was good. I bashed pretty good, and let my friend drive it. Well he couldn't get it in his head that you have to do everything backwards when it's coming towards you.. which meant a lot of WOT into curbs. Buggy is still a going though.

[Blacktiger]

Hey ram15racer, I wish I could, but I have to work. I have not been to DC yet. Been meaning to get out there. Just don't have much time on the weekends. About the only time I get is on Tuesday nights. So I am usualy at the Xdome.

[CRSMP5]

hey flash.. in the extra parts that came with the buggy came 4 plastic spacer/washers.. 2 of those is the same size as the thick fat one.. they are so you can change the wheel base by moving that spacer you lost.. aka move spacer to other side it is long wheel base, use the 2 spacers it is between long and short.. also the funky little black things that come in the spare parts are MIRRORS.. how many of ya knew that??

a big dab of silicone on the e-clips will help prevent the loss of the clip to help prevent the loss of pin/bone too..

[FlashLCD33]

I knew about the mirrors :D. I never knew about the spacers though.. oh well my fix works perfect and you cant see it :rolleyes:

[CRSMP5]

i finally got the rc driver for aug with the lightning mt ad.. for those occ lovers got to pick it up.. you kno whow hard core built the chopper mgt and spiderman tmaxx? they now have a occ mgt.. :) along with lots of photos of the boyz playing with the trucks... ill still stick with what hb web page has on it.. i have a feeling it will be comming a rtr pro cause thru out the ad they say specifications may change yada yada..

[Saboteur]

Hey all. I am going to pick up an RB S5 sport engine this week if I have time for the lightning. Will it fit with the stock clutch and flywheel assembly? Let me know what changes need to be made if any. The stock .21 is fun but now I'm getting a little bored :rolleyes:. The Hyper 8 port is pleasing for the $110, but I like RB and have seen and experienced nothing but great performance with it. I'll be just using it with the stock pipe for the moment. I'm sure it will be faster that the ofna or an RG. Might also pick up another front standard chassis brace as well. Guess I won't be racing nitro sedan after all. As much as I've been racing it and bashing in the past, 8th scale offroad is just too fun. Just go anywhere and have tons of power and speed. Besides, with a hot .21 you can catch upto some of the nitro sedans anyway. :p

[Blacktiger]

Saboteur, I run an RB S5 and love it. Has more than enough power and I didn't need to change anything. The stock clutch setup will work but I would recommend a 3 shoe setup. I ran it for a while with the 2 shoe and it ran fine though. Switched to the 3 shoe and the throttle is more snappy off the line. Hope this helps :)

[Saboteur]

Sure does. I just ran my ride today. Really like it but it seems the engine is very sensative to sudden weather changes and now I need to make some frequent small tunings. Nevertheless when I get it running, it runs strong but I'd still like to go for that RB engine. With tax its at the LHS for $236! That I can easily afford and I'm gonna go get it. :) I'm not racing at the moment but would like a really nice engine; something race legal and something I can keep for future racing. Are you running an RB #6 plug? I think thats what comes with the S5. What pipe are you using with it? I'll stay with the stock pipe and clutch setup for now, but will try to get a 3shoe flywheel later on. What shoes and springs are you running? Any pics of your ride?

[lp1proracer]

My RG might have a little more punch on the bottom(especially when it had the 063 pipe), but the top end is all Picco. I was out doing some speed runs with my Dad on the street with his stocker against my Picco. The Picco's got to have a good 8-10 mph over his stock engine. Both are geared the same.

I'm using the stock clutch bell on both the RG and Picco. You want the pilot shaft(P) version of the O.S. I see that Tower does not have them in stock now, but RC Zone Central does for $109.99.

http://www.zonecentral.org/
so do you think that the rg will do pretty good on a large track w/ a lot of tech areas, there is really alot of punch needed to come out of corners and to get short quick bursts to make jumps LHS has 1 for 115.00 and what fuel and plug you running w/ it

[Blacktiger]

Saboteur , Currently I am running GS racing springs and shoes with a hot bodies 3 pin flywheel and the stock pipe. And yes at the moment I am running the stock RB #6 plug. Tried a few others and it didn't seem to run as well.

Here is a pic of how my buggy looks at the moment.

http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/CrowdPleazerMounted1.JPG

[xxh0lywarsxx]

How fast will this little sucker go stock? hows low end punch with the stock .21 bb ?

[lp1proracer]

don't get your hopes up it isn't the best out of the hole w/ the stocker w/ 20% and a os8 plug so I'm going to try 30% w/ an osa5 see if that wakes it up if not I will be getting an rg since iv'e heard so many good things about em

[gr8taz nitro]

Just found a prices for the lightning stadium, and it's gonna be up there pretty high. They are gonna be running two different models of the truck, both with 26 engines with roto start. The stadium rr rtr is priced at $499.95 and the stadium pro rtr is gonna be priced at $629.95
I'm sure that there's gonna probably be some lower prices ( I hope) but this is the first pricing that I've been able to find on em.

Stadium RR:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=HOT55006

Stadium Pro:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=HOT55005

[CRSMP5]

hb prices are always jacked up at conception..

the intersting thing is the spiral cut diff gears and 50t spur.. wonder if they mean ring and pinion or the clutch bell...

and id buy a pro still.. and sell engine and electronics via ebay for the 130$ differnce..

[luvmypro]

I need some help here. I'm kinda bored with the hobby at the moment and want to get rid of my two buggies. What is a reasonable price to sale them at?


NEWER Ofna Picco 26 engine. Only about 1 gallon of 20% ran through engine.
Hitech 645 MG steering servo (all metal gears) (BRAND NEW)
Hitech 225 MG Throttle/Brake servo (BRAND NEW)
Venom Fail Safe (BRAND NEW)
Futaba Controller /Receiver (BRAND NEW)
Hump Pack Battery Pack W/Charger (BRAND NEW)
Aluminum Shocks
Craddock Brakes
Alum Shock Towers
1-3 Degree settings
The car was only run a couple times; the motor was out of my old Lightning Pro 1.
This car is in brand new condition.


Hot Bodies Lightning Pro 1. Adult Maintained and Run.
All Stainless Hex Screws.
JR Racing High Torque Steering Servo
JR Racing High Speed Throttle/Brake Servo.
All Hardened Steel Gears In Both Diffs.
Brand New Center Diff With Hardened Spider Gears.
Brand New Gas Tank With New Spare In Package Still.
All New Hinge Pins.
Car is sold as is.
This car was raced and placed very well.
I have a ton of spare parts for this car.
Extra tires/rims
Futaba controller and receiver
35 wgt shock oil
1000 wgt in diffs

[Saboteur]

How fast will this little sucker go stock? hows low end punch with the stock .21 bb ?


I run Blue Thunder 20% with an RB #6 plug. Runs much better than the OS plugs since they are shorter and reduce compression. With the radio settings I have on my 3PDFX, its quick offline and gets upto speed surprisingly quick. Still I crave more speed as the stock engine could benefit from more RPM. I'd go with a 3 shoe clutch though in the long run: more snappy that the stock 2 clutch setup. I'm gonna get the S5 when I get the chance and run it with my stock lightning. I'd say stock speed is close to 40mph.

Blacktiger- Thats sweet! I thought of getting an OS .21RG, ofna pipe system, 3shoe clutch,etc but I guess I'll just get the S5 for now. Too bad I won't be able to get it tomorrow because my mom is staying home from work and my sister is coming over to help us sort out some old stuff :( x10 . I had this planned out for like 3 days now too and I rushed out to get my check hoping I could get it today before I had to go in to work but came home from shopping too late. Plans have been officially ruined. Dammit!! :mad:

[adam727]

hey guys im new to the forum but im looking to buy a hb lightning rr off tower mainly cuz i want to get into nitro 1/8 buggies(cuz they are cool and fast :D). i was wanderin where to buy some cheap tires and some cheap rims online??? thnx guys, adam

[CRSMP5]

above luvmypro is selling 2 pros.. i highly suggest buying a pro over a rtr if your going to race.. ive met him he is a nice guy..

the place for tires is http://www.atomicmotorsports.com/main.htm best deal i know of and the tires are sweet!!

[Saboteur]

Well guys I looks like the Sport NT won't be upgraded and the RB S5 might be omitted as another plan has been plotted...

OS .21RG non p/s
Mugen 3 shoe clutch set (heard it comes with a flywheel)
new exhaust system (one piece or single..still deciding..prob go for the Ofna #086)
front std chassis brace (will buy a pair of alum ones if they have them)
Rear cva's (I put O rings in the outdrives to keep the dogbones from moving...really need this?)
Center Universals ( I also put O rings of the outdrives of these too)
Front std black sway bar set ( seems nice to get since I have one in the rear but I probably can omit this)
Alum rear suspension plate (for the rear arms. Guess a nice alum piece can help out for more harder bashings for the future. Do I really need this as well?)

This seems like a good setup. If I get the RB, I'll just get a std brace for the front and another RB #6 plug. Other upgades will be bought later on. Gonna run the stock clutch/flywheel setup and exhaust. What do you all think? Head the RG way w/list or the RB way? Wondering with all the new power maybe univerals all around will be better compared to dogbones. Also besides kyosho, does ofna or mugen chassis braces fit? It seems like it will do the trick. Anyone running a torsen diff on their rides? Gonna have a little over $400 by next friday and maybe just use about $260-$280.

[CRSMP5]

i have yet to see a rear aluminum brace set in person.. i would get a set for the front arms.. broken lots of plactic ones of them.. but never a rear one.. and rear one can be changed in under 5 min vs the front one.. BUT i own the only set ive ever seen for sale in person, my pro1 lacked them unlike others pro1s ive seen come new with them...

the front and rear anti bend rods are different

no idea on center cvas.. pros come with them an dnever had a issue

rear cvas not needed, but you can use front ones to replace the rear bones

i highly reccomend the mugen flywheel/clutch. you will also need to buy the proper clutch nut, like 4$ and a ofna shim kit 5$

is the rg the one you can get with a pull start? if so.. since going non pull start spend the extra 50-100 on the i beleive rz... it outperforms it for minimal cost differance

ebay for ofna pipe.. best deal can be gotten there

[Saboteur]

Where can you still find the OS .21RZ? I thought it was discontinued. Can't find it anywhere. Oh well, if they don't have .21s that I'm looking for under $200 a bit faster than the OS RG non p/s, then I'll just go for the RB S5. Buying the Ofna/Picco .26 seems really nice and its under $200 but I want to just have a race legal engine. The Ofna/Picco .21 Comp at Ace Hardware seems awesome for the price: $139. RB S5 is a bit tempting though :D

[NitroLightning]

Does anyone know if the torsen diffs http://ofna.com/95options.html at the bottom of that page will fit in my LP1? If not, does anyone know were i can get some torsens that will fit?

[Saboteur]

I was just about to ask that same question. Here is a new setup for the moment

Mugen 3shoe flywheel setup
Blue medium springs or white springs all around (car is bottoming out on jumps over 1ft with the stock shocks, preloads and 30wt)
Ofna pipe for top end (with snappier acceleration I don't really need anymore bottom end with the stocker)
Alum chassis braces (I'm sure other brands will fit)
Torsen diffs (these I'll leave for last as I don't know the actual price the LHS had them for but I did see a few for $100 and under)
Metric hex wrench set (damn L wrenches are durable but leaving impressions in my fingers that lasts for hrs)

Should the torsen diffs be out of the question, I'll see what else there is to get. A new engine is optional.

[charlesd]

Quick question on the knuckles -- anyone have a solution on how to stop having the screws fall out or the aluminum knuckles strip ?

When i install the bottom screws on the knuckles-- i put a dab of red loctite and tighten until it's snug. I can run a few times and all of a sudden i notice that my screw is no longer in -- remove the knuckle -- there's no more thread :eek:

It's as if the screw comes out but jams in the collar and strips the knuckle -- this is getting expensive. Is there another knuckle that will fit ?

[CRSMP5]

gs storm knuckles fit.. the issue is your loctiting it wrong.. you have to put the loctite in the threads of knuckle.. if you apply it to the bolt it locks to the collar then makes it come loose and give you the issue your having.. i discussed this a few times a few pages ago..

no chassis braces are different.. get the lighting pro ones.. i have et to see any others in same look much less demention.. unless you want to use the ball end rod kind..

torson diffs IMO are not needed (i beleive 7.5 ones fit directly and probally 9.5 ones also, look to see which one people are using in savages)

losi tools i love, stay away from rc screw kit as they are poor quality screws..

[Saboteur]

Cool. Does anyone run a werks racing clutch on their ride? It's really nice but I guess the mugen clutch will be fine. Save myself some $$ and put it towards something else. Who's running the blue or white springs and with what oil content?

[Blacktiger]

Well guys, My rear diff spider gears finally let go. Been lucky I guess. Was out bashing at a park the other night and I lost rear wheel drive. Took it apart this morning and found the rear diff was toast. What does everyone recommend I use as a replacement?

[CRSMP5]

hpi savage gears.. you will need 2 packs per diff..

i have the gs racing springs on mine.. white on rear (pro 2 front springs) with pink secondary springs and pink on front with yellow secondary springs.. on the pro2..

pro one has white rear and pink fronts..

[PhillyB]

torsen diffs will make it handle erratically, especially in corners. i think the only place it might work well is in the center, and i think it would only work on loose surfaces.

i killed the center diff gears already, i thought i snapped all the clutch springs because id rev and rev and nothing would happen. you can barely rotate the outdrives on it.

still went on to get 1st place after replacing the gear with one from the parts car, unsure of what might be in the diff even, didnt have time to fill it with oil. might have been the stock grease i donno.

the kyosho diff gears were a direct fit werent they? will the spur or ring and pinion F/R fit too? i think id like to get more K parts, since everything ive fit on so far works awesome.

[CRSMP5]

im using savage diff gears cause they are real real beefy and hardened.. the stock gears are what ill call pot metal, alot of ofna, kyosho, gs storm have pot metal gears in them..

some kyosho come with plastic spurs so be carefull and how did you wear out a spur? you can buy the stock center diff for a lightning, packed with grease, for around 30$ and have all new on all the parts.. i never bllew otu a set of the pot metal gears either.. and the pro2 comes with hardened diff gears also.. so i think i would do savage or them, but savage ones are easy to obtain i can get them for under 5$ a pack.. the pro2 ones are 12$ a pack from atomic...

[ram15racer]

CRMSMP5,
One thing that i did is to buy longer screws and cut them down with a drimel.
The stock screws are about a 1/2 mm to short and don't fit all the way in the Knuckles.
Lock tight is a must.

Blacktiger, K2 gears are a direct fit but cost more. They seem to last longer with the high HP motors.

Dane

[NitroLightning]

torsen diffs will make it handle erratically, especially in corners. i think the only place it might work well is in the center, and i think it would only work on loose surfaces.
:confused: :confused: handle erratically :confused: especiallyin corners :confused: I think that somebody really needs to recheck their physics book before making an opinionated comment like that. If cars handle so erratically in corners, then why do all sports cars have them? To further my point, the military would never have bought the Hummer if the tires that were spinning had all the power while the tires with the traction were just coasting. Why, do you ask. Because, it is an all terrain vehicle meaning that has to handle all terrain that comes its way. If it goes threw mud, it has to give all its power to the tire with the most traction (load) otherwise, slippiedy slip, stuck in mud.

[PhillyB]

nitro lightning

hummers have a lockable center diff, not sure about the rest. the locked center diff is so they dont lose traction to the front and rear diffs. this is not a torsen diff.

i drive a sports car, it also does not have a torsen diff, but a limited slip diff, with a mechanical clutch inside. this is computer controlled to send the power to the wheels that grip, for more power off the line. if it locks up in a corner it can send the car into a slide, or a spin. i know, ive done it :D

quote from *********** (hope they dont mind)

Adding the Torsen Diff's can drastically change the handling characteristics of your car. A Torsen diff will adjust the power output by sending more power to the wheels with traction if a set of wheels looses traction. While this sounds good, it takes some adjustment in driving to get used to. Some drivers prefer using them while others do not. Torsen diffs are available for the front/back and center of the Axis to allow you to fine-tune the characteristics.

so why did they take it out of the K3? it was in the front and center of the K2, and people hated it, i wish i could quote one of my magazines but ive read so many i cant remember where i have read it. i believe it made it harder to drive, and more erratic on most surfaces other than the most sticky.

feel free to buy one and try it out, but they are very expensive and require special attention and normal oil changes (a special oil too).

CRSMP5

i killed two spurs when my engine screws loosened up. i couldnt believe it happened twice (this is on two different cars). i used locktite. i have now used much longer screws with locktite and lockwashers and it seems to work, lasted through a race day and a practice day.

not sure how i toasted the center gears, but im running a crono engine, and i run it hard. i will be replacing all the gears with much harder ones, not sure which gears but id like some that can last.

ive found that the kyosho tank is a direct fit, and appears to be thicker, and might hold less gas since the rules require no more than 125cc. i am guessing, it just looks smaller.

[Saboteur]

OK guys, the RB S5 .21 is now in my buggy as well as kyosho blue medium springs. I'll get the hex wrenches later on sometime. No need for the torsen diffs, werks racing clutch or mugen clutch at the moment. :)

BlackTiger- How did break in for this engine go for you? I don't know how its stuck at TDC right now but I'm going to try and fix that and see if my box can turn it over.

[CRSMP5]

its a tight tight fit.. heat the engine with a hair dryer till its 150-180f make sure to mark the flywheel so you know where BDC is.. aka bottom dead center, by hand position the crank till right after tdc when cold so you can have a downward momentum then up with the starter box.. if you try to break it in going into the TDC it may stop turning.. when its cooling make sure to put it back at BDC or it may lock into place also.. i have broken in 2 ws7II and a 28.. those are the tricks..

[Blacktiger]

Break in went well, but as CRSMP5 stated it is a tight one. For about the first 6 or 7 tanks I had to heat it with a hair dryer and loosen the plug bit. And my starter box still had a bit of trouble turning it over. I have almost a gallon on it now and it is still tight when cold.

[Saboteur]

Yeah I started the break in today. Only did 3 tanks so far because my glow starter died on me. Going for the power panel and glow starter w/plugs next week. I didn't need to warm it up since it was hot outside and I lubbed the insides with after run out last night, loosened the plug a little, and tried to turn it over on my box. Its the 10th scale box, but I switched the position of the wheel. Turns it over without a hassle, unless I got it stock at TDC. So far I did 3 tanks of fuel. I did hear about this break in that Rody suggested but don't know if its true. Run it rich at WOT for 3 tanks: first tank 80cc, second 90cc, and 3rd 100cc. Then start fine tuning.

[PhillyB]

the WOT rich method requires a heat gun as well, basically you get the engine up to 200+ then start it up and WOT and richen till its barely moving. this supposedly breaks in the p/s while lubricating it like crazy.

[CRSMP5]

Ive doen the WOT on a ws7II and a s25.. honestly rody talks of a how to tell when broken in.. rember when you could not turn it over by hand when cold? 99% of that was pinch onthe piston and sleve.. the trick is when its warm, aka right after you shut it off, pull out the glow plug, turn the engine over by hand.. when you cannot feel the pinch its broken in. only till the loss of pinch when warm is it broken in and then ready to tune/race..

both break in methods work.. use his little test to tell when to start tuning, but NEVER say 3 tanks and its broken in.. else you may snap the rod..

next if the piston is trying to get stuck when you start it its very very very bad for the rod.. use a hair dryer and preheat it please.. the rod is like 60$ and will need replaced after 2 gal of fuel for sure with no preheating.. preheating lessens the stress on the rod extending its life.. it will still need to be changed around the 3-4 gal point or when it becomes loose on the crank, but id rather have some xtra life from my engine with a simple preheat..

break in is hardest on the rod also.. you may have to switch it around 2 gal, but the new one will last alot longer due to no break in stressing the rod..