HB Lightning RR Forum v3.0

[Saboteur]

Thnx for the news guys. I'm heading out just now to do 4-5more tanks.

[FlashLCD33]

My Lightning is for sale. $300 + shipping.

Lightning RR1
Airtronics MX-3
Hitec 645MG steering
Hitec 625MG throttle
HPI Rotostart
Pro2 chassis
Pro1 front/rear braces
Pro1 front suspension holders
Motorsaver air filter
Extra hinge pins / E clips
Full screw set
Pro1 steering knuckles (not on)
6mm 6061/7075 front shock tower (easily converted back to 3mm)
3mm 7075 rear tower
Kyosho blue rear springs
Proline performance yellow wing (not drilled yet)
Pro2 wing mount
3k front, 7k center, 1k rear diff oil (including full diff oil bottles, only 1 diff filled out of each)
Brand new never spun 1-way bearing, installed
Bellcranks have ball bearings
Engine has about 2.5 gallons through it, but was NEVER run lean. Should still be at least another 3 gallons in this baby.

Tires are worn down, but still have some tread on them. Wing is pretty scratched and cracked up, but there is a never run replacement for it. Engine head has some scratches, but that's purely cosmetic. Tons of spare parts, including a set of PRP hex wrenches that include every size the buggy uses. Everything is included to make this buggy run except for 12AA batteries (or 8aa batteries and a reciever pack). No glow starter included. 1500 Pirhana NiCD rotostart battery included. Will add a 45 minute NiCD/NiMH 7.2v/4.8v/9.6v charger for an extra $25.
Overall this buggy is in GOOD shape. I'm selling because i'm stepping down my RC involvement and opening up to car audio. Will trade for a LIKE NEW good amplifier, no walmart specials.

[FlashLCD33]

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v258/FlashLCD33/Lightning%20Sell/CIMG1514.jpg

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v258/FlashLCD33/Lightning%20Sell/CIMG1515.jpg

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v258/FlashLCD33/Lightning%20Sell/CIMG1516.jpg

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v258/FlashLCD33/Lightning%20Sell/CIMG1517.jpg

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v258/FlashLCD33/Lightning%20Sell/CIMG1513.jpg

It's pretty dusty, but I will have it cleaned up before it is shipped. As of right now, it's missing the Roto-Start dogbone.. A friend was messing with it and can't remember where he set it down. Surely I'll find it, but if not I'll take $5 off of the buggy.

[burnouts]

charlsed i had the same thing happen until i bought a helicoil kit. helicoil the knuckles put the factory length cap screws in it with loctite 243 and i have not had a problem since, plus it worked out cheaper than buying new pro knuckles.

[crymynal]

Hello all.....I have read through all of V3 and part of V2 of this thread. I am looking for the manual for the RR. :confused: Does anyone k ow where I can download this from?

I read that the car is made by one company and import to the US and sold as HB. :confused: So what is the original company's name?

Sorry for the lame questions but I just bought a RR off ebay for $200 and would like a little more info on it. I am sure that I will be around more and have MANY more questions for you all. Thanks for your help :D

[CRSMP5]

welcome to the forum.. i cannot think of th emfg name at this sectond.. think its a sacker

instruction manuals.. im a bad boy and have yet to get them scanned off.. something i really need to do..

there is also a v1 of this thread :)

[crymynal]

Sacker is the name that was mentioned in V2.

Yeah I know about V1 but......2 days already. maybe some other time. I know I will just need a little brake from all the reading.

Scan the manual...come on! LOL

Thanks!

[Casey]

I believe that actual manufacturer of the Lightning is "Ming Yang". This buggy is sold under a FEW different names.

Here's the Sacker Pro:
http://www.ozshops.com/shops/radio/uploads/des_files/cy/cy887k.jpg

http://www.ozshops.com/shops/radio/uploads/des_files/cy//cy887k-1.jpg




And the Carson "King of Dirt" 4WD:
http://www.suter-meggen.ch/rc/carson/verbrenner/13187kl.jpg



Carson "Mud Master" 2WD:
http://www.suter-meggen.ch/rc/carson/verbrenner/13186kl.jpg

http://www.suter-meggen.ch/rc/carson/verbrenner/buggy.htm

[Saboteur]

Cool. Hey Casey I'm gonna let the RB rip pretty soon. I liked my setup with the stock BB and have gotten wicked performance out of it but it was time to bump it up. My Ofna dual 550 10th scale box starts it up very easily. Not a hassle at all. :) I just need more BT fuel and going for the power panel and glow starter with banana plugs.

[Saboteur]

Good news. The LHS is getting more HB parts in soon. Going to purchase the braces, fuel, and a maybe a new pipe.

[ExtremeDuty]

I thinking about getting a HB Lightning 1 as a basher. It seems the most popular $300 range buggy and there are many owners around here.

$299 price tag seems to be a hit, but I am not sure about part supply.
All of my LHS's simply suck.
So far, I searched internet but never found an online store that carries Lightning parts. Also I'm concerned if HB will stop making parts for Lightning 1. Are there many parts shared between version 1 and 2?

As long as parts are available through online stores, Lightning 1 is on my top list.

[suryo]

yes you can find a spare part for HB Lightning 1 on tower hobbies. and you can also use a spare part from kyosho buggy, coz this buggy is indentical. :cool:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=hot+bodies+lightning&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

[Casey]

Lightning parts can be found at the following places:

Horizon Hobby
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/services/advanceResults.asp?cboCategories=ALL&cboManufacturers=ALL&tag=qsrch&Prod=hbsc8

Atomic Motorsports
http://www.atomicmotorsports.com/sub-5.htm

Lightning Hobby
http://www.lightninghobby.com/store/listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=4363

Stormer Hobbies
http://stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=cust&pn=HOT&man=Hot%20Bodies

The Lightning is NOT identical to the Kyosho MP 7.5, but there are several parts that will fit the Lightning. Seems that with 1/8 buggies there are alot of interchangeable parts between different brands. You just have to do the research to find which fits what.

[CRSMP5]

you also forgot browns.. they are not online.. but a phone call away and seem to stock 99% of the parts for them.. also you want to buy a pro1.. do not get the rtr, browns still has a new one on the shelf (330$ish) 330-532-1783

[Saboteur]

Anyone running a 15T clutchbell with the stock 47T spur gear? Trying to get a little more top end with the S5.

[Duster_360]

A little more detail on your helicoil comment few messages back. I have a LP1 and one knuckle is about to go (a used "roller" I bought for spare parts, but was in such good shape I went ahead and put my OS RG in it and have been having way too much fun) and I want to know what size helicoil kit did you buy - 4mm?? Where did you find it - hardware store or??

I didn't know they made metric helicoils that small. Since there's not a lot of meat there, loctite the helicoil in also? Any other advice? I need to do one at next major teardown/cleanup - that one is basically red loctited in there now- almost no thread when I took it apart to replace broken hub carrier. Thanks!

[CRSMP5]

i have a 15t on my rb ws7II.. no issues with it.... ive had a 18t cb on a picco 26 in it too..

[luvmypro]

anyone looking for an Pro1 roller? All new arms, pins, hardened gears in diffs, new center diff, JR Racing Servos 590 & 270. I took the motor off of it for my Pro 2 and really don't have any use for the Pro 1. It's missing the wing & mount. It's in good shape. Probably take $150 for it and I'll ship it for nothing.

[burnouts]

DUSTER 360
I got mine from a engineering supplies store and yes they do make them that small. I didn't bother to loctite the helicoil in, i have never had one move after insertion.

[low10s]

hey fellas, i just ordered this car the other day and i hope i enjoy it. i am putting and RB 3 port econo on it. does this car come assembled at all, are the diffs put together. there websight does not say much. but it looks killer.

[Duster_360]

Burnouts - I will go looking an see what I can find. I know my local Ace Hdw did not have them this afternoon when I checked and they have a real good stock on tools - I can buy any number drill there including the smallest and my 2.5, 3 and 4mm taps have come from there. Maybe McMaster Carr?

Low10s - I don't have the LP2, but do have a pair of LP1s and guess they would be alike as far as assembly. There was only minor assembly req'd to get the LP1 running - servos and linkage, rx, air cleaner that kind of stuff. The LP1 came with a nitro star 21bb motor, understand the LP2 does not come with a motor.

[Saboteur]

i have a 15t on my rb ws7II.. no issues with it.... ive had a 18t cb on a picco 26 in it too..

How do you like it? I tried running the engine again today but it still seems rich and lacking top end. Maybe a new pipe can also help. Still waiting for the LHS to get the 3 shoe clutch in soon because tons of Ofna stuff are on back order. I'll probably modify my clutch like the HPI racing clutch. The HPI although for 10th scale fit my clutch no problem but the stock clutch has more contact area. I'll let you guys know how it goes. :)

[Blacktiger]

Saboteur, How many tanks have you got through the S5 so far?

[TC3Racer]

hey guys -
just ordered an LP2 and looks like a great buggy! I'm really looking forward to getting it. What tends to break the easiest on this buggy? I want to order some spare parts so i dont have to worry about waiting on parts. thanks alot.

[Duster_360]

One more question - I found them on line (McMaster-Carr) and in 4mm they are available in 4mm, 6mm and 8mm lengths. Since you've already solved this, any chance yopu remember what length you used? Thanks for the help!

[Saboteur]

Saboteur, How many tanks have you got through the S5 so far?

I've done 14 tanks of fuel so far. Just bought a gallon and may run 4-6 more tomorrow (weather permitting). My boss also has his WS7 II and probably finished breaking his in today.

[Blacktiger]

Hmm, you should be able to start tuning it for power then. Mine is still running rich and has great top end.

[CRSMP5]

i broke my pro2..
the vid (http://members.aol.com/austinreash/rc/bash2004/pro.wmv)

carnage pics

http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/bashfest_2004/mine/1.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/bashfest_2004/mine/2.jpg

this was at the savage central bash fest.. i was jumping the jump for quite a while.. then somehow watch the ramp right before it gets real loud.. i nailed the plywood

[Saboteur]

BlackTiger- Yeah, I need to lean out the HSN a bit. I was told the low end is fine though. Does yours load up though after like 6-8seconds? Mine does. Still running the 2 shoe but modded it to work like the HPI racing clutch.

CRSMP5- What kind of tires are those? I'm looking for something with more traction on sandy type soil here at my ball field. My stock tires are more rounded instead of flat so the middle section with the tiny paddles seem to be doing all the action. Thinking a set of Proline knuckles may work. Onroad and grass though the stockers work pretty good. I may end up sticking with them for a while but would just like to know my options. Also going to pick up a temp gauge. Thinking of how my ride would look with an onroad body and road tires. Get some onroad action and prob leave buying the nitro sedan. For the price of one, I can buy a GTP body, preglued tires w/rims, and body mounts, as well as MT tires, 12T or 11T clutchbell, and a nice truck body for the MT conv. Little summer project I plan to do since I won't make it to the Aug race at RCMadness. :(

[burnouts]

CRSMP5 well done on the ramp moving exercise.

Duster 360 i used the 4mm long ones

[CRSMP5]

look up he atomicmotorsport link.. they ae panther tires, those ones are real soft though and wear fast.. but they grip real good in dust/hardpacked surface.. the reason for my trying them out..

[Blacktiger]

Saboteur, mine does not load up that much. Once you lean the HSN a bit it should idle for a while and you will hear the rpm drop a bit after a few seconds. How does it do on the pinch test? And what are your temps like?

CRSMP5, that was a pretty hard hit. What all broke?

[Duster_360]

Well, this is proving to be a pain. I found them on McMaster-Carr's website so I thought this would be no prob. I have used helicoils before, just much bigger - 1/4 - 1/2" range. I know you have to have an installation tool, drill and tap for the size you're installing. McMaster has a repair kit, but its $56!!! I assume you found a kit an it was a reasonable price?? The coils are like 64 cents apiece.

Anyway, I need more help - more info - what brand and what engineering supply did you find yours thru? Approx cost would help also. No way I'm going to spend $56 to repair a knuckle - rather put those $$s toward new if I have to! Thanks again, appreciate your help!

[low10s]

what type of reciever pack are you running in the lightning. do you have a part no. thanks

[Duster_360]

I'm using an Ofna #10212 1200mah NiMh hump pac I got from RC Boyz for $20.00 in one and my other LP1 is using an 1200mah NiMh HPI Racing hump pac listed here -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=ML

it was also $20. I don't see any practical diff - they're both made in China.

[badandy]

I just bought one of the original Lightnings and have taken notice of a few things......things I would like to see replaced.

Shock caps....the shocks seem like good units however the caps have plastic ends. What is the usual upgrade?

No front chassis brace....i would like to order the upgrade 7071 set but wanted to see what i was buying before I bought them...any pics?

I replaced the steering bushings w/bearings and added a rechargeable 1200mah pack.....next comes a receiver so that I can use my MX-3 and most likely a steering servo

What are the upgrades to make it a Pro and etc.?

Seeya at the track PhillyB :D

[Saboteur]

[QUOTE=Blacktiger]Saboteur, mine does not load up that much. Once you lean the HSN a bit it should idle for a while and you will hear the rpm drop a bit after a few seconds. How does it do on the pinch test? And what are your temps like?
QUOTE]

When I clamp the fuel line with a needle nose pliers before, it stopped after a few seconds. RPM didn't seem to go up though. Temperature wise, I am about 190 unless I do some big high speed runs on grass and in the dirt. Thats when the temp goes up a few degrees but still doesn't get water to boil on the heatsink. Not even sizzle a little bit. Even when I did a small burnout, it did sound a little blubbery. Throughout a small 50ft dash, it did sound a bit rich as well. I need to lean out the HSN indeed. Just running the stock Lightning pipe and 2 shoe clutch. Low end is not a problem.

[CRSMP5]

look back a few pages till you find my many many photos of the pro 1 and pro2.. it has photos of the braces.. also the pro versions are much nicer as far as shock caps and all..

what did i break.. the front diff housing that holds the differental and a shock shaft.. thats it.. 10$ in parts.. its all fixed now.. ready for weekend races.. :)

[Saboteur]

Are aluminum braces really necessary? My stock rear std brace works well. Also on the kyosho kanai's and the Mugen MBX-5 they come with the same tierod like braces. They all seem to work well and are inexpensive.

[burnouts]

Duster 360
i live in New Zealand and my kit was NZ$60, cnc knuckles are $84 over here.
How about $40.83US www.nortstate.com/helicoil/

[Duster_360]

Thanks burnouts, that was the same place I found last night searching on helicoil. All the others must be buying from them cause their prices are higher. I'll be ordering that kit from them later today. Thanks for your help!

[Blacktiger]

Saboteur , yeah your pretty rich, lean it out a bit after it is up to temp. You need to try to get the temps around 225 or so. Once you get it there you will notice a BIG difference in top end.

[PhillyB]

sup andy

hey what have you guys found to be the strongest knuckles? im ripping the screws out of the kyosho knuckles. the screws are pulling the threads out of the knuckles. im only using locktite on the knuckles themselves, not getting it on the spacer. yesterday i finished dead last in the pro series thanks to a busted knuckle, horrible. otherwise it was fairly fast, just wasnt having a good weekend. brand new engine and didnt get it leaned out enough in time, was still wicked fast but it still has alot of untapped steam.

[Saboteur]

BlackTiger- It wasn't the HSN but it was the LSN. It totally rips now! Idling is also a lot longer and now I see more smoke coming from the exhaust. With the modded clutch I won't by the 3 shoe anymore. Just gonna get the front brace, spare parts, another glowplug and temp guage. Thnx for the help.

[CRSMP5]

i have yet to pull threads from knuckles.. you can try to find gs storm ones.. like 20 a side.. but you have to be doing somethign wrong in its assembly to have this issue..

as far as guy who started a new thread :( the buggy has no weak points.. throw a engine in, good electrics and you will see she races very nice out of the box stock..

[Blacktiger]

Saboteur, Glad to hear it is running good for you now. Got any pics of your buggy yet?

[Casey]

I'm looking for a set of aluminum clutch shoes that are a direct fit on the stock Lightning flywheel. I was thinking about going with the Mugen shoes and 1.1 springs. Any suggestions?

[charlesd]

The mugen shoes fit and so do the Kanai III, Kanai II aluminum shoes.

[badandy]

sup andy

hey what have you guys found to be the strongest knuckles? im ripping the screws out of the kyosho knuckles. the screws are pulling the threads out of the knuckles. im only using locktite on the knuckles themselves, not getting it on the spacer. yesterday i finished dead last in the pro series thanks to a busted knuckle, horrible. otherwise it was fairly fast, just wasnt having a good weekend. brand new engine and didnt get it leaned out enough in time, was still wicked fast but it still has alot of untapped steam.

A little birdie told me about a set of Integy knuckles that the local hobby shop had in stock. As it turns out the same little birdie told me to look out for the screw/stock knuckle problem and sure enough it happened.....threads are still there but I had seen better.....Integy units appear to be of really good quality unlike their T-Maxx parts.

[Saboteur]

Blacktiger- I will soon. Just bashed with my friend's Mirage Vspec today. Doing some engine tuning and radio adjustments he managed to keep up with me. Even if he was set several inches ahead of me and got the lead, I beat him on top end. Still have to get use to the engine loading up after 10 seconds or more.

[CRSMP5]

ive got mugens on mine.. i stuck with the 1.0 springs though.. i dont have a idle speed issue with the rb ws7II but if you want to really top the maxx on aluminum.. how does this look..

http://store.savagess.com/images/product_SAV1100X.jpg

http://store.savagess.com/images/product_HSAV1215X.jpg

it is made by GPM for a savage.. ive got one on my rb28 and still wanna try it on the rb ws7II

you have to buy them seperate though.. i do not think a kit is offered as of yet

[Saboteur]

Well due to the worn out tires on my HB, I've decided to also add in a new set of treads to the list. Looking at Prolines Knuckles premounted but they are white dish rims and I have a yellow wing. Won't go together but what the heck (unless anyone thinks I should just get a white wing). How is this THS pipe http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHAF4&P=0 , compared to say an Ofna one piece 063 or 086? I know the Ofna pipes are identical to the RB pipes but much cheaper which is why I want to get one.

[CRSMP5]

look up the http://www.atomicmotorsports.com/main.htm and buy a set of panthers.. you will have to glue them your self but ya can get yellow dish wheels.. i just hate tower.. he is such a fast shipper and good guy to talk to i have to at least suggest his panther tires..

also proline premounts are glued very very bad.. you pretty much have to reglue them anyways.. at least if you run 10 min qualifiers and 15min mains you do..

[low10s]

what other parts will work on the lightning such as wheels, clutches, etc.... thanks

[CRSMP5]

any 1/8th scale buggy wheels and tires, wings, clutches, savage flywheel and clutches, savage diff gears, i like ofna vented clutch bells but savage flywheel has better fit with them.. else a ofna shim kit and piolet shaft extension is required to use them, any 1/8th scale buggy springs,

[low10s]

speaking of shims how do you know if you need to shim it and where exactly do you shim the clutch, and yes this is my first 1/8 scale LOL. thanks

[CRSMP5]

there should be clutch bell back lash.. aka it moves back and fourth a little bit, aka feel it more then see it pulling and pushing on the cb. it should also spin freely with nothing trying to stop it besides its bearings..

how to shim/where to shim.. thats a harder one to discuss on a forum.. basically if the cb hits or touches the flywheel it needs shims on the inside betwen the flywheel nut and the 1st bearing, if the 2 of them is NOT touching you put shims on the outside before the bolt/eclip. some engines use a eclip instead of a bolt.

a ofna cb.. its teeth are longer, to put one on a stock lightning set up (flywheel) the teeth of the cb will overhang where the bolt goes buy a 1/4 of a bearing. so how do you install a bolt?? to put one in it would be dead tight and not turn freely.. so inside a ofna shim kit they include 2 silver tube pieces with a mushroom shaped head. those are piolet shaft extensions. use the smallest one, like 3 thick shims and a thin and one of the longer bolts thats in the kit to put it together.. ofna cbs are hardened, vented AND the clutch shoe area is deeper so you will have more cooling area for the frictional heat clutch shoes make.

a HPI savage flywheel is the same diameter as stock, but its flywheel is much thinner. the fact it is thinner will eliminate the need for a piolet shaft extension...

[low10s]

thanks alot, i checked it out and i am okay. i got a Pro 2, it came assembled and i put an RB 3 port on there. later

[low10s]

do any of you run a fail safe?

[Blacktiger]

Well look what I did on Tuesday! Landed on the rear real hard. Bent the rear shock tower over and it cracked clean through in two spots. It was the stock tower though.

http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/RearDamage1.JPG

http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/RearDamage3.JPG

[Casey]

It's a good thing the replacement stock shock towers are so inexpensive. Are you going to replace it with stock or get the 4mm Pro tower?

[Casey]

do any of you run a fail safe?

I run failsafes on all of my nitros. It's money well spent. :)

[CRSMP5]

stil do not own a fail safe.. i say either 4mm pro ones or 2 rtr ones to keep that from happenin again.

[PhillyB]

I run failsafes on all of my nitros. It's money well spent. :)


i run the ofna one. best 30$ ive spent. it saved my supermaxx from certain death. was running it close to a well used road when my RX pack died, it just sat there with the brakes on.

blacktiger, ive done that too. the 4mm pro shock towers shouldnt do that. they are 7075 instead of 6061, and ive wrecked mine so many times with them that im not worried about them anymore. they might not survive a nuclear holocost but seem to survive my abusive driving.

[Saboteur]

Ouch Blacktiger. I manage to get some decent air off a small ramp and scratched the tip of the front shock tower. I saw sparks when it hit the ground :). Still thinking of some alum chassis braces and some stronger shock towers because I'm gonna try to get some more air time and stuff. Kinda mad I scratched my RB heatsink a bit. :( Are you still using the stock exhaust? My stock setup with modded clutch works really great. Still the water doesn't boil so much but just sizzles a little bit when I test it.

Low10- I don't run with a failsafe. Just always charge my stuff the night before I head out. :)

[low10s]

i have been told by some to run one and others say dont run one. i installed one and the thing glitched like crazy, messed up the whole break in. the reason i got one is because it ran away on me on the second tank of breakin. thanks

[Blacktiger]

For now I will probably go with 2 RTR towers. I did that on the front a while back and it has held up just fine.

Saboteur, Yes I am still using the stock exhaust for now.

[low10s]

need help with glitching. i cant run my new buggy cause of glitching. here is my setup. Pro 2 buggy, Airtronics servos 94358's and Jr pro xs3. when i first tried to run it i had a Jr x2i am. it got away from me and broke a shock. so i got the new Jr pro. i ran it for about 3 minutes then it started glitching again. all batts fully charged. i cant figure it out i even put the Jr servos in and it still glitched. any help please....i dont have a receiver pack yet, i am using 4 2300 mah rechargeables.

[CRSMP5]

what fail safe? if a venom the problem is the batts.. 4x1.2v=4.8v 5 cell hump is 6v.. trust me on this.. eliminte the fail safe and see if it still glitches.. a friend of mine got a 5 cell hump with a bad cell.. he was pulling hairs, went thru 3 receivers, 4 servos, 2 fail safes trying to figure it out.. the 4.8v was kicking on his fail safe for a second making the glitch..

that was with a jr xs3...

ALSO.. plug the power into the 3rd channel of the receiver.. the batt position only allows 5v to the servos.. the 3rd channle will allow 6v to get to the servos.. use a volt meter and see if you do not beleive me on that.. something i was told long ago.. and in fixing his stupid glitch i confirmed that..

[Duster_360]

Is that for real - plug the batt into the 3rd channel on the rx and you'll get 6v on the servos vs only 5 if plugged into the batt (last position)?? Thats a 20% diff in voltage to the servos!! WOW!! Just for moving the plug! Man I will be trying that one tomorrow and checking it with a VOM too! Thanks CRSMP for the tip!

Fail safe - I use the failsafe in my tx - the 3PK has a built in and have yet to see it kick in (other than testing it to be sure it really is working).

[Saboteur]

BlackTiger- Picked up my temp gauge, new tires w/rims, etc. Cant wait to try out the Proline Knuckles. They look awesome and have better grip than my stock tires. BTW also gonna try out this RB #6 Titanium plug. I'll try the same 2 shock tower method as well but aren't longer screws needed?

[low10s]

i tried it without the failsafe and it still did it. so i unplugged the steering servo and held the buggy by the head and the vibration was awefull. so i took it down and tightned everything. i guess it could be the 4 batts also. had 12.8 on the radio and when i finished charging the AA they were at 6.0 volts according to my charger.

[CRSMP5]

1.2v x 4 is no way 6v.. dont trust the charger.. i can beleive you squeezed 1.3 maybe 1.4v in each.. but no way 1.5v each.. try normal AA those are 1.5v..

my friends we went thru the diffs, put new bearigns and all in it.. the way we found the voltage issue.. still had a major glitch...

you have to build a Y harness or buy one, turn the radio and all on, use the extra terminal on the throttle servo, of the y.. use the volt meter on the other, watch the voltage with servo load on it.. just checking the batt voltage does not do anything vs having servos on.. when we did that.. the 6.2v it was showing dropped to 4.3v which is where venom fail safe kicks in..

the power wire idea is a JR receiver thing.. the batt has a bec built into it and limits the voltage to 5v.. that way you can hook it up to your 7.2v batt on your electric racer and only have 5v to servos.. also if you have a radio with all 3 channles used, again use the Y harness to supply power into a servo area to get 6v.. :)

[Blacktiger]

I'll try the same 2 shock tower method as well but aren't longer screws needed?

Yeah it should require some slightly longer screws.

[Saboteur]

Where can I get these screws from?

[CRSMP5]

the LHS should have them in the dubro section.. i dont know the length you will need though..

[Blacktiger]

I would say all you would need is something at least 3mm longer than the stock ones. Also don't forget to get longer screws for the wing mount. Most shops have Dubro stuff as CRSMP5 said.

Also here is another pic of my broken tower!

http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/RearDamage4.JPG

[Ferrari_Spyder]

i need a diff housing because i stripped the screw holes where the lower suspension holder attach to the diff case. i cant find a hotbodies retailer that accepts paypal?

also i find the engine has some available power that makes it run well if i just lean it out, but im dead serious it runs at 350 degrees. right now i really dont even care anymore, aslong as its making the power, i dont mind how long it lasts.

i raced this past saturday, and i did the best i could (10 seconds slower per lap than the leaders on a 50 second track) but i could only be maybe 2-3 seconds faster per lap and the rest is the limitations of the engine, and also steering sharpness. i messed with some things to find acceptable handling and turning, but engine power lacks so much i cant even clear the triple. right now im looking at a mach .26 with a gallon on it for $60. is this a top-end or bottom-end engine, how would the .21bb pipe do with the mach?

[RCILaser]

Ferrari Spyder: Way back when I was still running the stock motor . I was able to improve low-end by using a AL 650 it's all low-end. You can also put a dirt demon 12 tooth clutch on, you will have to shim up the engine a little, that will also help low end By the way I use PalPay I have the Clutch Bell in stock but I am out of the diff housing I have them on order you can use a Pro1 or a Pro2 they are the same, only thing is that the Pro2 has the words Hot Bodies on it. If you can't get one try putting some CA glue on the screw and put it in and let it set up some times that works

Robert Rienhardt
www.AtomicMotorsports.com
We Race Little Cars in A Big Way

[CRSMP5]

fs.. paypal me like 9$ and ill mail one to ya.. i know where some in stock on wall.. parts like 5$ and shipping will be 3ish with cc paypal fee it should even out..

[fanke19]

Ok guys...please prove me wrong here. I had this little "situation" last night at the local race. Casey was there...great race by the way Casey! 1st Place!

Ok, so I get to the race about 5pm. I took the buggy out for a few laps. It was running really poorly, really rich, it was very humid and hot. So I cranked the HSN in about 1 full turn...and it was running much better. The low end was still very poor, so I cranked the LSN in about 1/2 turn. It was running great. I ran two(2) full tanks through it...no problem. I brought the car back, it cooled down for 1/2 hour or so. By the way, the engine was running about 180 degrees, and still blowing oil on top end.

So I took the buggy back to the track just before the first heat race, but it wouldn't stay running. Hmmm. :confused: 1/2 hour ago and it ran fine, but not now. So I tried going a 1/2 turn in on the HSN, 1/2 turn out on the HSN, 1/2 turn in on the LSN, 1/2 turn out on the LSN, and all variables within. No luck.

So later in the night, just before the main, we tried one more time. We could get it to run for a few minutes, but then once it seemed to warm up, it woudl just die. :mad:

So, I'm up watching the main, and one of the guys says, hey, I saw how your car was running. When my car ran like that, the engine was shot. Low compression will do things like that.

So, I'm wondering how to check compression on this engine? I have a compression tester for larger motorcycle engines, but how do guys test compression on these little guys?

I'm thinking of getting a new OS RG if the engine is bad...otherwise I could buy a new Lightning RTR, and part it out but keep the stock .21? These are last resorts of course, but I wanted to check with you guys first :D\

By the way, I have put probably about 3 gallons through this engine so far. Started out with Byron 15%...then used mostly Trinity 20%...and the last thing available from the LHS was Trinity 25%. So, I've had about a 1/2 tank of this 25% through it so far.

Thanks for ANY help guys :o

[CRSMP5]

if it was runing that cool.. do me a favor.. pull the glow plug.. if the coils are not silver change it and try again.. if they are grey/black its fowled out and fouled out plugs do that too..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

alright i raced again tonight and i only got one 5 minute qualifier and then on my prctice lap for the second one my fuel tank cracked and out spills a full tank of fuel. i heard back a few pages someone having problems with that too? what was the final decision about that, i head the pro2 tank didnt fit, what about any other tanks or will i have to suffer with hotbodies tanks for the rest of my existence?

also i got the car running well and ofcourse it temps at 320* im like whatever screw it, i leave it like it it, then later its running well and it temps at 230* im like ***? so i temped it 2 more times that night 340* and then 220* lol any explanations? it was progressively running slightly faster all throughout the night i just dont understand the temps?

i was also talking to my dad and we did decide that the buggy is a little over-geared so its funny you mentioned about the 12 tooth clutch bell. my dad also pointed out he thought the clutch was slipping so i was looking into getting a full clutch set from either mugen or ofna. i can either get a whole clutch setup or i can opt for an idividual 12 tooth and a 3 or 4 shoe clutch shoes for less clutch slippage. so whats the best companies 12 tooth i should buy and whats the best clutch shoes i should buy and will they all fit with the hotbodies flywheel or should i just get a whole clutch setup?

also i had 3 problems tonight, 1 you already know about the broken fuel tank, 2 the pipe fell out of the silicone holder somehow (sounded awesome) and 3 the rear dogbone is too short and was just barely layingt inside the CVA's (or is it cvd?s i dunno) so its very possible i switched side or front to rear dogbones but i figured they were all the same length? arnt they? if they are than what gives?

so now i need:
clutch shoes (better than stock)
12 tooth clutch bell
reciever box (broke it somehow my fault)
diff housing
fuel tank (better than stock)
longer dogbone (or cvd upgrade)

:eek: :eek: :eek:

[Blacktiger]

Well while testing out my shock tower fix tonight on the X-dome's new layout here in Dayton, Ohio, I landed wrong off a jump and oblitorated the right knuckle and bent the cvd bone. I was told the 7075 Dynamite knuckles for the storm will fit and are much cheaper than the Hot Bodies ones. Any one have any suggestions on a better knuckle that doesn't cost a fortune?
Pretty sure I can straighten the bone for now.

http://s89755524.onlinehome.us/bt/Knuckle_damage1.JPG

[CRSMP5]

yep storm knuckles will fit... they cheapest alternative also.. mugen clutch shoes fit and work great.. and slipping shoes will raise engine temps..

i broke my pro1 tank after a year of having it.. it breaks due to the full tank of fuel and bad landing on jump.. buy another thank and dont hit the ground so hard..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

so the mugen aluminum clutch shoes? or the carbon ones? also what 12 tooth, ofna vented? ofna regular? mugen? or all they all the same?

thanx :D

[in need of help]

hey guys i just ordered one of these, can i bolt a roto start right up to it? and what temps are u guys runnin?

[Ferrari_Spyder]

one more thing , what are mugen white clutch shoes? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5913177143&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

also i would need a mugen flywheel if i want mugen clutch shoes, correct?

[CRSMP5]

roto start fits.. temps 250-300f is common..

fs.. white is teflon.. yes they fit stock stock flywheel, BUt i prefer mugen over stock.. that way you can bolt the ofna cb on with no major issues.. i actually like savage flywheel over mugen.. smaller diameter..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

of teflon, carbon, and aluminum shoes, which is best for high-grab/low-wear?

so savage flywheel
mugen shoes
ofna clutch bell

i guess you guys dont make it easy on me lol

[PhillyB]

the kyosho tank fits, i think its smaller though. much thicker looking too. holes dont line up, but the mounts are loose, and it fits. havent broken it yet.

use the cvds from the front in the rear. fit great.

kyosho knuckles are only slightly better, anything from the 7.5 series fits. i got fioroni front and rear knuckles (uuuuggh expensive) but a friend is running the integy ones with good luck. these are 30$ for the pair.

watch how big your flywheel is. i used a 38mm one (ofna 4 shoe) and it was hittin the ground (or rocks on the ground) and stalling my engine. then i rubbed the CB on the chassis, ground out a divot for it with the dremel.

i like my aluminum shoes, but they are unlike most on the market. mostly since they just wear out, and dont break. ive broken alot of the composite ones.

id like to try the sliding clutches, after i run out of alu shoes.

my newest problem is keeping the tires glued on. during a 10 min qual i ejected a foam. it exploded while i was racing, i didnt stop either. cant keep em glued on to save my life. always peeling em off.

[CRSMP5]

tires.. try the atomicmotorsports panther tires, the non dished wheels and the glue they have.. you will be impressed with how well they hold up.. not yet touched one of them up even..

the slidign clutch is ok.. it in a way is different then the shoe style on hook up.. aka slips till highenough rev then hold on it grabs..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

aluminum, carbon or teflon! :confused:

[Ferrari_Spyder]

double

[Ferrari_Spyder]

i found hobby outlet (http://hobbyoutlets.com) to be a large hot bodies distributor, and they also have lightning pros for sale :eek:

just thought id share ;)

[CRSMP5]

Ferrari Spyder: Way back when I was still running the stock motor . I was able to improve low-end by using a AL 650 it's all low-end. You can also put a dirt demon 12 tooth clutch on, you will have to shim up the engine a little, that will also help low end By the way I use PalPay I have the Clutch Bell in stock but I am out of the diff housing I have them on order you can use a Pro1 or a Pro2 they are the same, only thing is that the Pro2 has the words Hot Bodies on it. If you can't get one try putting some CA glue on the screw and put it in and let it set up some times that works

Robert Rienhardt
www.AtomicMotorsports.com
We Race Little Cars in A Big Way

i was just on your webpage.. what happened to the listing of HB parts on it?

[RCILaser]

I am geting a new list together. I have a lot of new parts. I have just about ever part that you may need. I an going to set up some kits with all the parts that you will need to change a PRO1 front end over to a PRO2. I am trying to find a good shopping cart so that you will be able to buy them on line. In the mean time call if you need some thing. Also I have put together a SETUP SHEET for the PRO2 I am having Hot Bodies looking it over at this time so that I can post it on my site with out a problem from them. In the mean time if you would like a copy E-Mail me I will E-Mail you one back .

[badandy]

I have a question in regards to CVD compatibility. I read that MP 7.5 CVD's would work on the rear of a Lightning RR and they fit just fine however the pin will not fit in the hole. Do I need a MP 7.5 pin only?....or will I need the hub/nut assembly from a 7.5 as well?

[CRSMP5]

why not just use the HB front cvds in the rear? they will fit..

thanks i was worried that you were not going to carry the parts.. ;)

honestly i want to down grade my front end of my pro2 to pro1.. the pro 1 still turns better.. but it will be nice to be able to send someone directly for parts kits...

do you plan to carry the hb lightning staidum (which i will own the 1st in my area, was put on the want when can be ordered list when i gave the LHS the part number for it) when they are avaliable or the few different parts associated with it vs the buggy? also.. ive been doing a upgrade to savages using the diff cups from lightnings so once you get it all set up im going to link that mod to you for parts.. may want to keep some in stock cause ive found it to be the best upgrade on the savage diffs vs aluminum cups that cost 6x as much..

[RCILaser]

We have done some experimenting with placing lightning Pro1 hubs on a lightning Pro2 we had to cut off the upright ears then they fit right on. These hubs have less caster in them and give you a little more turning and if you use the zero front end plates you end up with 17° of caster, you will have the advantage of the longer upper arm, giving you a better roll center. If you use the zero plates with the Pro2 hubs . You will have 19° of caster , that is what I am running at this time. My sponsored driver is using the modified hubs, and the plus one plastic blocks and he really likes that set up.

Robert Rienhardt
Atomic Motorsports
We Race Little Cars in Big Way

[PhillyB]

this weekend was crazy. went to a 5,000 race, ended up being a 3,350 race since only 67 people showed. was supposed to be only amatuers but apparently there were 25 sponsored drivers there.

i qualified 52 or 51 which put me in the G main, managed to last 30 min (30 min mains, 1 hour a main) with my rtr/pro. bent a kyosho shock shaft (3.5mm) about halfway through which pushed the lower shock screw through the arm and bent the screw so bad i had to dremel it off, lost a c-clip off the rear knuckle.. during qualifying i broke a suspension arm, cracked a engine mount plate (the flat things on the chassis), etc.

it was an awesome weekend, i placed 6th or 7th in the G main. a hole in my fuel tubing made for a really horrible tune on my engine about 2/3s of the way through. no front shock didnt help. i was up in 3-4th when it flamed out (probably from the hole in the tubing) and i lost my place. i cant wait to do it again.

[RCILaser]

For all you lightning Pro2 enthuses. I just created a setup sheet, and have posted it on my web site. You can download a copy and print it out and use it for your own. Right now it is only a blank setup sheet. Shortly I should have some others to look at for a starting reference

Robert Rienhardt
www.atomicmotorsports.com
We Race Little Cars in Big Way

PS I had hot bodies look at,and they gave their approval. Not that it makes any difference. I just didn't want any trouble.

[CRSMP5]

thanks for the tip on the hubs.. i did not think of that.. so basically your using the pro1 c hub with the pro2 upper arm bolted like a stock pro2 onto the pro 1 c hub.. slick.. i would never have thought of that..

philly sounds like a fun race..

[PhillyB]

it was fun, i was both put down and excited by my placement. to even place among all these pros with only 2 months or so with my buggy (and only this summer with racing and nitro) it felt good. i hope to get even better as time goes by, this was only my 2nd big buggy race (3rd big race overall) that id been to. mostly club racing, with only a few fast guys. im hooked on racing already.

so you dremel the top of the c hub off, where the screw goes through and use a longer screw down into the knuckle? hmm might have to try that. already using pro2 upper arms anyway.

[low10s]

i have dealt with MR. reinhardt at Atomic and he is very nice and informitable. that is where i get my parts for my Pro2. check him out.

thanks Wesley

[CRSMP5]

i know.. ive been orderign stuff from him for a while now..

[scoobydoo]

hello :)

i'm getting my lightning rr next week, my friends have hyper 7's, what i want to know is which is best? simple!! :rolleyes: as a complete newbie i mean to nitro, i've had electric cars for a while also what are the best hop ups for the car approx £100 to spend i think

cheers :D :D :D :D

[Lapster]

Where do you guys get parts, and if it is your LHS, where could I get parts???

[CRSMP5]

http://www.atomicmotorsports.com/

[CRSMP5]

RCILaser got few questions on set up sheet..

the biggest is the steering knuckle.. HBC8081-1 you have a position A and B now i admit i got one of the 1st pro2s i found but mine only have position A is B a new thing or a hole you guys made up?

then the next qusetion.. the steering plate and those holes affect what exactly in the performance of the buggy? i pretty much understand the rest of the settings and what they do but this is one that ive never fooled with nor understood what it does..

another thing.. team crc in ny has a custom made front hing pin brace for the rear arms.. they modded it to play with the rear suspention kick up. they say by manipulating this that it becomes more stable.. have you ever fooled with this setting?

[Lapster]

Where on that site do you buy parts??

[CRSMP5]

from a page back....

I am geting a new list together. I have a lot of new parts. I have just about ever part that you may need. I an going to set up some kits with all the parts that you will need to change a PRO1 front end over to a PRO2. I am trying to find a good shopping cart so that you will be able to buy them on line. In the mean time call if you need some thing. Also I have put together a SETUP SHEET for the PRO2 I am having Hot Bodies looking it over at this time so that I can post it on my site with out a problem from them. In the mean time if you would like a copy E-Mail me I will E-Mail you one back .

i also have 2 LHS that stock parts for them.. so im a lucky one.. but his is the only place on line i say to deal with cause he shipps fast and prices are competitive..

[Casey]

Well, it finally happened. After racing my first LP1 for a year and a half, I sheared off the posts on my wing mount. I replaced it with a brand new set and sheared that set off, too. :eek: So...my question is do the Lightning 2 wing MOUNTS work with the Lightning 1 wing STAY? I really like the screw mounting system that the LP2 has.

[CRSMP5]

yep direct easy fit... its all the same.. BUT you do not need to buy them.. drill the ones you sheared off and use some 3mm machine screws. atomic is the only people i know who have v2 wing mounts also.... if you cannot find any i have a spare set of them i think..

[RCILaser]

CRSMP5 : Those are new hubs. The outside is the same as what we've been using the insight setting gives you quicker steering. Changing the position on the steering plate will change the Ackerman and will help with on power steering I also use that position because I have had a couple of times where on a hard jump I have had the steering lock up and when I run it in the back hole, it does not happen. No I have not tried the rear plate I will have to get some, we've been looking for something like that.

Robert Rienhardt
Atomic Motorsports I have been thinking of changing my Company name to (First Coast R/C)
We Race Little Cars in Big Way

[cbr74]

Tryin to sell my LP1... I hate to do it, but I need $ for a 1:1 car. It's in the BST forum if anybody's interested.

:(

[charlesd]

Is there anyway to adjust the toe on the rear ?????

I used a gauge and it's at 5 degrees. Seems a little strong -- usually it's around 2 degrees.

That's with the stock 7075 pin holder and the 56mm.
Is it done by using the 54 mm in the rear ?

[NitroLightning]

Just ordered a Sirio 27xl pro for my LP1. With that i ordered an ofna 086 pipe and a 16 tooth clutch bell. what do you guys think of this setup?

[CRSMP5]

try the 54 and see what it does.. for the rear toe..

ill have to get more info on it.. its one of the racers design and not even listed on their webpages.. but the racer at crc told me of it so its just talking to the right person..

that sux on the steering knuckles.. i feel like i was jipped now..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

i did some great racing last night with my lightning. the only problem i encountered all night is that even after drilling some holes in the clutch shoes, after a prctice lap all of a sudden the clutch was engaging WAY too early so it would bog for the first 10 feet before it would get up and go. i never did find the problem but leaning out the LSN seemed to temporarily partially fix the problem although i know that wasnt the problem. i inspected the clutch, everything seems fine, but i wont run until my clutch stuff i ordered a week ago comes in. also im looking at new engine for real this time.

i found a deal on a picco p3 .26 with jp1 pipe with only 1 1/2 gallons, but im worried about the reson hes selling it. he says that even with the 18t clutchbell, its just got WAY too much low-end and will spin the car out as well as eat up clutchbells. he also says there very little topend. is there anything else i can change beside the clutchbell to get better topend and less lowend so it doesnt eat clutchbells? i figured it might have been the clutch engaging too late, but that doesnt explain the lack of topend with the 18t clutchbell. what do you think about this deal for $150 anyways?

oh and will my clutchsetup i just bought fit and work? savage flywheel, mugen carbon shoes, 1.1 springs (darnet i probably need some .9 springs for less low-end) if that is true <<< anybody got some .9 clutch springs???

[CRSMP5]

ahhh stronger springs 1.1 for example, for higher rpm hook up.. yep it still all fits no problem..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

wait, but i want lower rpm hookup for less lowend power

[charlesd]

I picked up a werks adjustable clutch at Ace. It works great. No more wondering what springs and shoes to use.

www.werksracing.com

[CRSMP5]

the clutch was engaging WAY too early so it would bog for the first 10 feet

so you want what? that says it is hooking up too soon.. so need stronger springs to hook up later..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

oh sorry yes i woulkd need the 1.1 springs for the .21bb but i just bought the p3 and i was talking about that that it engages too late, so lighter springs to tone down the bottom-end.

[CRSMP5]

honestly i ran my picco 26 with a 18t cb and stock lp shoes and springs with no issues.. its the same engine and all but with a blue head.. the thing you will find with that engine is 1/4 throttle is the exact same as WOT so does not matter.. the power band is so flat its kinda usless..

[Saboteur]

Ok guys, gonna get a 3 shoe setup at the LHS. I'll try the kyosho flywheel which is like 22 bucks or so and going for some shoes, the 1.1 springs and few other stuff. Also they have the alum front brace so I'm gonna get that too. It's for $19.99 btw. :) weeeeeeee!

[CRSMP5]

look at savage flywheel for 7$.. will work just fine..

[Ferrari_Spyder]

i just bought a savge flywheel for $3, 2 18t, 1 16t, and 1 13t for $3 a piec, an ofna pipe for $5, and kyosho alum clutch shoes for another $10 NIB, ofna 1.0 springs for $2.

im going to start with the lightning clutch since those darn clutch spring for the mugen and kyosho clutch shoes i have take about an hour to get in. ill use an 18tooth, and ill put the exponetial on my radio so it takes 0-30% throttle, to become 0-70% throttle, my .21 bb will become my back up, even so im gunna back it up to the trash soon, cuz its so ugly i dont want to look at it again.

[charlesd]

At the Quebec nationals held in granby this year, i managed 2nd place in the B-main.

I got bumped up in the a-main and worked my way up to 5th place at the 30 minute mark. I then pulled a '' stupid move'' :( which ended my race.

I broke the front pin holder -- the plastic one which hold the pins on the bottom interior of the front diff. I ordered the aluminum ones from hot bodies, but does anyone know of another model that will fit ???

It may take a while to reach here and i was wondering i something like kyosho would fit ??

[RCILaser]

I have my new hot bodies parts page up and running I have about 15 more individual parts to add to the page. But the main body is working, I have installed a PayPal shopping cart. You can now buy the Parts online. I have a spot that tells you, if I have them in stock or now, if you order more than I have. I will e-mail you before processing your order. I am trying very hard not to put anything on back order



Robert Rienhardt
www.atomicmotorsports.com
We Race Little Cars in Big Way

[charlesd]

robert,

When it's written you ship only to the U.S for the panther tires, it that also for the lightning parts ???

Charles

[CRSMP5]

charlesd.. i have a set of those aluminum front rear arm holders if your interested.. i got them for my pro 1 that lacked them new and never installed them before i sold it.. so they are new, just not in the bag.. new they are close to 30$ ill say paypal and 25 to cover shipping and all ill mail them to you.. the buggy new comes with a different set +1 so that will keep you going till they arrive.. but if you do paypal tonight its possible to have them next week.. i never trust customs.. shoot me a pm for info if interested.. they are the 3* ones or id keep them since my pro2 came with the 3* ones installed..

[low10s]

hey guys, i am looking for an exhaust for my Pro 2. i have an RB 3 port and need some more low end. the thing is do i go inline or what. thanks

[CRSMP5]

2 piece pipes allow adjustability.. 1 piece pipes dont.. this adjustability makes it easier to adjust lets say the torque by making the combination longer.. i also like the stock header due to its slipper spring clamp.. i admit its a pain to hook up the spring.. but it can be moved unlike some others..

[KandL Racing]

Upgrade time... (no not to a Pro2 :> )
I just ordered some Kyosho wheel hubs for my RR (which is pretty much a Pro now). I am still running the stock drive shafts (wheel and center diff shafts) The wheel shafts are getting worn and showing their age... should I replace them with stock HB parts or use something else? Also would like universals off the center diff, any replacement info on those?

TIA!

KandL

[CRSMP5]

the pro comes with the center CVDs.. and honestly the stock CVDs seem to hold up great.. so i cannot see a reason to change them.. BUT here is a kicker.. need a rebuild kit for the CVDs? the losi LST has a 7$ rebuild kit for its CVDs which is enough to replace 2 pins, set screws and the piece that holds that all together.. they fit into the lightning and the pins are even notched.. the part # is b3505

[KandL Racing]

Thanks for the info! The reason I am considering changing them is I have had 2 CVD's come apart, even when lock-tighted. I know I should check them more often! :) One of them complete disintegrated, the cup end was gone and the ball end was gone. just the two shafts were left, and I actually finished the race like that! Course it would not go straight, but lots of bilping and steering made it to the finish line. Anyway, that's why I've considered it. My first thougth was Kyosho universals, but wasn't sure if they'd fit.

[CRSMP5]

you must have been missing the notch in the pin when installign the set screw.. the stock pins are notched..

RCILaser got a question was just fightning about.. but do you expect to carry the c8040-2 wheel hexes for my friends lightning.. he wants to do the wheels with purpal but did not relise the front and rear hexes are different..

[Saboteur]

Well guys I finally got my stuff. Front Alum. brace for $18.95, Mugen 3 shoe clutch setup, power panel and glow starter w/plugs, and fuel tubing. Take off is even snappier than before and it also helps with idling. The Flywheel is larger too that stock but feels a little lighter. Guess I won't by anything else for now until something breaks. Want to get a nitro sedan now.

[RCILaser]

CRSMP5:The c8040-2 wheel hexes are on back order and have been for some time and honestly I forgot about thanks for reminding me . I will have to check on them and get back with you if you use the C8039-2 on the rear . you will lose a little wheelbase , but they will work

Robert Rienhardt
atomic motorsports
We Race Little Cars in Big Way

[CRSMP5]

how does that affect the wheel base? if anything it affects the rear track aka makes buggy wider by 2.4mm over the normal ones thats listed for the front..

stock on the rear of the pro series buggies has been those also.. so its not like a hop up or anything.. it is for a rtr which has the thinner ones..

[RCILaser]

That is what I meant. I may try thet just to see if there is a difference in handling

[NitroLightning]

I'm looking for a 16 or 17 tooth clutch bell. Really, i would like it to be a 17 tooth. I just purchased ofnas 16 tooth vented clutch bell, but the teeth are so long that there is a gap between the bearing and the crank. So, i need a clutch bell that will fit properly like the stock one. Thanks for the help

[CRSMP5]

OFNA SHIM KIT REQUIRED.. i keep saying this over and over on the past so many pages.. it has the extension you need in it.. costs like 5$ and is well worth the money for all the shims you get..

this is also the reason i reccomend the savage flywheel.. with it there is no extension needed...

i also have yet to wear out a ofna cb.. the thing just keeps going and going..

[CRSMP5]

Hey guys...

I wanted to let you know about a big race next month. The 3rd Annual East Coast Race Against Cancer is happening at McCullough's Offroad in Sarver, PA on Sept. 11-12. It's a very cool race and all the money raised goes to cancer research. Here are the details...

3rd Annual East Coast Race Against Cancer @ McCullough's Offroad in Sarver, PA
Sept. 10-11-12
Schedule: Friday open practice, Saturday 4 qualifiers, Sunday Main events.
electric classes include:
Sportsman
Stock - Buggy & Truck (must supply your own ROAR legal stock motor)
Modified - Buggy, Truck, & 4WD
Nitro classes include:
1/10 Gas Truck - (1/10 & 1/8 A-Mains will be 30 minutes in length)
1/8 Scale Buggy
Open Monster Truck - (Monster Truck A-Main will be 15 minutes)

tons of raffle prizes, food, fun & ALL PROCEEDS BENEFIT THE AMERICAN CANCER SOCIETY

for more info: www.mcculloughs-offroad.com

[CRSMP5]

well tonight i did the lp1 c hub conversion onto my lp2... the mod to use the stock upper arms to reduce the caster.. ive got photos of the modded pieces i just need to get it all uploaded.. this weekend i hope to see a differance in its turning ability.. and ill let ya know how she does..

[CRSMP5]

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/chubs/1.jpg
http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/chubs/2.jpg
http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/chubs/3.jpg
http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/chubs/4.jpg
stock lp2 above, modded lp1 below
http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/chubs/5.jpg

[RCILaser]

Looking at your photos, I see that you may have had the same trouble as I have. Wear the bold that holds the tie rod to the steering plate get hung up underneath the upper aluminum suspension bracket. I've found that if I moved the tie rod mounting to the rear hole this problem was eliminated. This will also change the Ackerman, allowing for better on power steering control. If you installed a new updated steering knuckles. The ones that have two mounting holes for the tie rod using the inside hole will give you quicker steering and helps control bump steer, and also will offer you the opportunity to make a modification to the C hub to allow you to have more turn in. What you must do is radius the edge of the C hub that comes in contact with the steering arm. This allows the arm to turn in further, and also minimizes the cutting effect that the steering arm has on the Pro1 hub

Robert Rienhardt
Atomic Motorsports
We Race Little Cars in Big Way

[CRSMP5]

im starting to feel like a trator.. whos seen the new XRAY XB8 info? there is some pretty slick stuff on that bad boy.. wonder what the cost is going to be.. figuring it includes hudy tools and all :eek:

[Saboteur]

I've seen it. My boss has his decked out Hyper 7 PBS after spending over $400 in it and wants to get one. I've heard its gonna be around $600-$700.

[luvmypro]

what engine is a good engine that's responsive, but one that you don't have to screw around trying to tune all the time? I have a Picco 26, it runs good, but I think it's time for another. I don't race and I don't go to the tracks, I just want a good engine that stays running, that I don't have to constantly tune, and has some power behind it. SUGGESTIONS????

[CRSMP5]

mach 26... that engine is smooth cheap and keeps a tune..

xray told me retail is 650.. i emailed them.. im going to wait till xmas then get workign on buying one for next season.. i want to learn what can be used from it on the lightning as far as suspention and all goes.. i like how they have the adjustments set up on it.. and i downloaded a set of instructions I HIGHLY SUGGEST THIS AT LEAST cause the last 6 or so pages is set up and what each every little thing does.. this stuff can be used on any buggy.. great info it is.. http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/showfile.php?file_id=1805

[PhillyB]

luv my pro

what are you looking to spend? i believe the .26's go for 149 or something close. for around 200$ you can get a RB S5, a 5 port RB concepts engine.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/RBC1004-S5.html

is one place to get it, im sure there are others. even RB's cheap motors are still going to hold a good tune, from what ive read on their forums, at www.rbproducts.com.

thats the only sub 250$ motor ive heard of as being a good buggy engine, with good power and reliability.

[CRSMP5]

well a 8 port.. 120ish, with a good carb os 20e 60ish is a good combo too.. its just th emach is 130 and reliable and nice engine.. at least till they started putting them in LSTs, mass production seems to be ruining the once good quality ive gotten to learn of it before the lST came about..

[PhillyB]

the 8 port is a good choice, most will have air leak problems (this is fixable). also the fantom .21 is fairly inexpensive, not sure how much power it will have. i have heard mostly bad things about the mach engines. i have seen one here in town with a large hole in the side from a flung conrod. of course it was a crazy guy that did it, so i dont know if i should blame mach engines.

i also think you should stick to .21 size engines. anything bigger doesnt seem to rev as well. i outrun larger displacement engines quite often, like the sirio .27.

[luvmypro]

Well cool. I mean I used to love the motor I have, but I just like to start it up sometimes, run for 10-15 minutes, put it away, and a week or so later maybe get it out again. But everytime I get it out, it'll run good after you warm it up for 10 minutes or so, and it seems like it takes forever to get it started. I've even tried using the roto start with a drill and it even takes a few tries to get it going.

[CRSMP5]

sounds as if it still too rich..

[Saboteur]

I also agree with an Ofna 8 port and new carb. For the price of both items it's pretty good if you are on a budget. I like my RB S5 though. For a "sport" engine its wicked and more than enough for bashing. Just totally rips on bottom end and has good top end. The S7/S7II has a little bit more top end, as well as the WS7 II but with optional gearing and clutch engagement you can catch either engine. Very easy to tune and holds it well.

[PhillyB]

i just read a mag at work, didnt bring it home, but i read about another high end 'race' engine company (top or novarossi) is going to release an economy engine. to them (and RB) economy only means a lower price. this looked like a nice engine, only 3 ports but solid machining and parts. also comes with a tuned pipe and manifold, tuned for the economy engine.

id take an 'economy' engine from a 'race oriented' company over a cheaper/used motor anyday.

[RCILaser]

Hot bodies Pro Stadium truck is being shipped should have some in stock late next week
Robert Rienhardt
Atomic Motorsports
We Race Little Cars in Big Way

[CRSMP5]

sweet.. any idea of how much? and its the pro version right?

[Ferrari_Spyder]

CRSMP5, or any others with experience with the picco/wasp .26...

what plug is good for this engine? i used some mccoy 9's i think and it didnt really like them, but then again im not a good tuner? the picco seems to randomly stall and it seems to not be lean or rich but then it just stalls. also had major problems with the engine not sitting low-enough the flywheel was up so high it had to be in just the right position to start it. the engine was running at 240-260* is this normal? i also had to feather throttle even with crimefighters - i had the stock pins on but it shredded a rear right tire :D i mean part of the tire compound just disintegrated. i have to completely relearn how to drive a car with this new engine.

[RCILaser]

CRSMP5: yes , I am talking about the PRO version $629.00

[CRSMP5]

=) rc driver mag has 4 pages on it with some close up photos.. ill see if my local lightning person can get them.. aka support the LHS that seems to be one of few that carry hb products while i can.. if he canot have one i may just have to get one from you..

[CRSMP5]

fs... look at your glow plug if its not silver its too rich.. my picco ate mc 59s due to being too rich.. that there cold plug can only mak ethat issue worse..

[rshornet]

would anyone know which parts are interchangeable with kyosho or hobao parts. I am interested to buy a lightning pro2 but the lhs can't seem to get any parts for it. I am in manila btw. I really like the quality of the kit.

[CRSMP5]

manila... take a look for sacker (i think that sthe name.. look back 5 or so pages on the last discussion of its sister buggy) parts.. europe and a few other countries have the same buggy by a different name..

look at version 1 and version 2 of this thread also.. lots of those parts discussed in those section.. by this point we have a pretty decent supply of parts from atomic listed above and the one LSH i goto..

[CRSMP5]

also guys.. i requested a copy of post 889 aka the staidum thread to be copied into the mt section..

[luvmypro]

Do me a favor, what is the glo plug to use and where should I have my needle settings? I need help, I'm about to junk this Picco, and it only has 1 gallon ran through it. HELP

[CRSMP5]

rember the days i said the picco was junk.. =) honestly the needles are a PIA to adjust the HSN a 1/16th is a too rich to lean setting! all i can say is time.. i used a mc 59 in mine fo rever thru its almost 5 gal life till the LSTs airfilter sucked up dirt between the foam and plastic..

[savageP3]

what are some good upgrades for this buggy? my buddy has one and is looking for hop ups.

[savageP3]

besides engine, pipe, radio, reciever pack

[CRSMP5]

if he has the pro does not need any... if he has a rtr then all the stuff a pro has..

[Saboteur]

I just got an alum front brace for my buggy. It's the RTR1. Using a hitec 625MG servo. Some say it doesn't have enough torque but it does and its fast as well. RB S5 engine, mugen 3 shoe clutch setup (better than the 2 shoe...also helps in idling), Ofna hump pack and Futaba 3pdfx gear. Rest of stuff are Proline wabash rims and Knuckle tires, and Kyosho blue medium springs with 30wt all around. Thats all I'm running and it works for me. I will try new diff oils though. Anyone try 5k front, 10center and 5 in the rear?

[luvmypro]

Yeah CRS, I remember you saying that. You know...LHS talked me into the Picco, only cause that's what he runs, but yet, he can't even tune it. Hmm, I shoulda thought before I bought. I would love to have and RB, but funds are tight. I would be willing if anyone is interested in trading the Picco (1 Gal Through it) and a Pro 1 roller (without rear wing/mount) for the price of an RB S5. Any takers? I have the Picco running great now, but as soon as that needle moves...here we go again, time to tune.

[NitroLightning]

I have a Sirio 27 engine, savage H/D 16 tooth clutch, and the stock spur that can with my pro, but im having problems. I am about to be going onto my third clutch bell. The Teeth are getting all chewed about every 10 tanks that i run. My spur looks to be ok, but i cant keep my clutch bell teeth from getting ground into points. I understand that i have a lot of power especially when i hit the gas and see the buggy rocket forward instantly and the top speed is just insane. I checked my mesh with the piece of paper and it folds up like an acordian. So really, the mesh seems to be good. Is the spur gear worn and it just appears to be of good condition?
If i have to replace the spur, I would like a very strong one that would hold up to the power of this engine. I was looking at this one. http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=7398
What do you guys think?
If you know of a stronger one, let me know.
On to the next question. The savage H/D clutch bell, is it the correct pitch for my spur?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFPZ4&P=ML
If not, which one do i need, and please dont tell me ofna because i already tried them and the crank was to short.
Thanks for your help guys :)

[CRSMP5]

HPI clutch bells WILL NOT work on a lightning.. ofna VENTED only.. if they are not ofna hardened it will eat them.. BUT you require a ofna shim kit if your runnign the stock flywheel (savage flywheel solves this and is cheap) cause the ofna is longer and requires a piolet shaft extension thats in the $5 ofna shim kit..

[CRSMP5]

your right.. all it takes ia a 1/16th turn on the carb to screw you on the picco.. try a hpi s-25 carb.. see if that helps...

[CRSMP5]

sab im running 10k middle, 7k front, 3k back..

[Saboteur]

How's that working for you? I'm lookin for a setting that will help with even tire wear. Maybe I should stop that power steering and so on asphalt as well as power sliding and heavy breaking but that ruins my fun. :(

[CRSMP5]

i think it works great...

[badandy]

I would like to upgrade my RR1 to Pro2. I am aware that the pro2 chassis is a bolt on upgrade but am unsure of the part number....I think it is c8037-4....if so will I be able to upgrade the radio box/tray/tank etc.?

Can anyone supply me with definate pro 2 numbers to help me upgrade to the 7075 chassis?

I have the pro 1 stuff now but want to go with the 22 deg. setup as well.

Help?

[CRSMP5]

the 22* stuff is upper arms and c hubs... and the bolts.. atomic has them in stock.. he is even making a kit to buy to do this conversion..

the chassis is only changed for new radio lay out and tank.. c8037-4 is the number.. look back one page for his info..

my staidum will be in my hands wed night!!!!!!!!

[Saboteur]

Cool. Tell us how the bashing goes with it man.

[dyslexic]

hey out there I just got my grubby lil hands on a used RR1.
I'm trying to find out what bodies will fit with minimal modification.
what I can do to improve the handeling I'm currently running 30wt oil on all 4 corners with what I belive to be the stock shocks and springs.
I have no idea what if any oil is in the diffs, what would be a good starting point?
also for some reason I have a second servo saver on the steering servo looks like a kimborough is this nessacery or is it better to remove it and use an aluminum servo arm?
I have a ton of questions but these are the big ones at the moment.

also will the kanai 2 front suspension bolt onto the rtr1?

PS hey CRS looks like your as informative here as on the SC forum how the heck do you keep up? By the way if your wondering I'm the guy that wrote the createx/faskolor post on SC body shop.

[CRSMP5]

the kani parts should fit but cannot say for sure..

how do i keep up... well the stuff i own or have i tend to keep up on.. and i was one of the 1st with the lightning pro.. so ive been here long enough and check after done with each time i check central.. yea im a busy man..

[Saboteur]

dyslexic- I run 30wt all around with Kyosho blue medium springs. Works really well. Actually think its a little bouncy but it's ok. It's being mostly used at a lot of tracks.

[dyslexic]

if anything i'm not bouncing around to much, got a chance to test it out seems planted very well and the tires hooked up well.

I'm still looking for any info on the diffs I was thinking of filling them all with 80w90 gear oil.

I'm currently reading thru the entire thread but have yet to run accross any info yet on the diffs.

[Saboteur]

Some run 5,000wt front, 7,000wt center, and 1,000 rear. Also for shock setting usually the rear is 5wt less than the front.

[Havok2112]

Hi I was wondering if the front CVD's fit in the back to replace the dogbones?

[CRSMP5]

yes fronts fit the rear.. :)

[badandy]

the 22* stuff is upper arms and c hubs... and the bolts.. atomic has them in stock.. he is even making a kit to buy to do this conversion..

the chassis is only changed for new radio lay out and tank.. c8037-4 is the number.. look back one page for his info..

my staidum will be in my hands wed night!!!!!!!!
He is making a kit? I don't see it on the Atomic site so I assume it's not a completed thing as of yet. I guess I will just wait until he has everything together.

[CRSMP5]

call or email him.. the stuff is in invetory.. he is more of a hands on kinda guy.. his post on this kit is 2 or 3 pages back.. you will be suprised at how much he helps..

[badandy]

I guess it's no secret that RR's generally do not come with the best of bearings and my Lightning was no exception to this. I just replaced all the stock bearings with Boca ultra seals, and although I have not run it yet I am amazed at the difference! The fact that I had 5 locked up bearings in my drivetrain was a eye opener......check those bearings guys! What's even more amazing is that I'm sure those bearings were locked up during my last track outing but the car was moving out! I can't wait to let the WS7II rip with the new bearings!

[CRSMP5]

actually the series one had bearings that got dirt in them easy.. the 2nd series is rubber sealed..

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp011.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp012.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp017.jpg

there some 1st photos..

dogbones in teh rear are same leangth as a savage!! goodie if i break one easy fix, the hexes are savage 25 style so my outback weld adapters fit!!

this thing lacks a 7.2v batt and a c cell for the glow ignitor.. a gal of fuel and those things and its running..

the tires suck :? well i bet they will work nice on a nice hard packed track, but very very very soft..

tomarrow i rip her apart, good electronics, the rossi 28, and looks like my out back weld 40 series with bow ties will go on it.. its a little on the soft side.. but i can stiffen her up..

also it comes with a mount to hang a buggy wing on it.. total cost with a new body out the door with tax under 700.. it was 599 for me..

[PhillyB]

wow those shocks are laid way down low. looks like a touring car with the shock angles.

again i must comment on how low the entire truck is, body is soo low.

[Havok2112]

I was wondering if the Kyosho 7.5 gas tank is a direct fit for the lightning pro.
Mine is leaking at the lid. The o-ring isn't sealing anymore. Not sure if Kyosho gas tank would be better then the hotbodies one. Let me know.

[RCILaser]

Havok2112 It is not a direct fit it is just a little longer and cost a lot more. You should be able to replace the O-ring. If you need a new tank I have some for the PRO2 but they will not fit the PRO1, you may have a hard time geting one for the PRO1.

My new Truck came in also I am going to run it with the motor that came in it just to see if is OK or not.

Robert Rienhardt
Atomic Motorsports
We Race Little Cars in a Big Way

[RCILaser]

I just was looking over my stock and I do have a tank for the PRO1 I have two of them . The cost is $9.50 plus shipping

[CRSMP5]

i ran a partal tank thru it with the rossi 28 and a 15t cb.. next up diff oil change.. it unloads the front tires way too easily.. but man body roll whats that.. this thing slides like a sprint car on a turn..

[Havok2112]

Hey guys I got some O-rings from work today going to give them a try. If that don't work I gusss I'll have to pay for a new one. I'll let ya know how I made out. Thx for the help. :)

[Saboteur]

I guess it's no secret that RR's generally do not come with the best of bearings and my Lightning was no exception to this. I just replaced all the stock bearings with Boca ultra seals, and although I have not run it yet I am amazed at the difference! The fact that I had 5 locked up bearings in my drivetrain was a eye opener......check those bearings guys! What's even more amazing is that I'm sure those bearings were locked up during my last track outing but the car was moving out! I can't wait to let the WS7II rip with the new bearings!

Wow are they that good? Reduce a lot of friction? I see nothing wrong with my mine and currently saving for a real car so I can't drop a lot of money for a set of bearings. I'm sorta packin up since I'm in college and really don't have much time for bashing.

[CRSMP5]

i found the steel shileded ones seem to get dirt in them and then go uncleaned til packed full and seize..

more photos.. the other truck is my savage racer project with my new 1st production run tvps that ive been designing for 9 months..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/10.jpg

[CRSMP5]

ohhh yes i did install the rear wing for photos to see how it looked.. i also have a sweet modded hpi bronco to fit it real low.. looks like a desert racer.. ill post photos of that tomarrow

[PhillyB]

Havok2112 It is not a direct fit it is just a little longer and cost a lot more. You should be able to replace the O-ring. If you need a new tank I have some for the PRO2 but they will not fit the PRO1, you may have a hard time geting one for the PRO1.

My new Truck came in also I am going to run it with the motor that came in it just to see if is OK or not.

Robert Rienhardt
Atomic Motorsports
We Race Little Cars in a Big Way

i broke my stock tank, only thing i could get was a kyosho tank, it works fine. it is a bit longer, but the mounts are flexible and can work. havent broken it since. that was about 2-3 months ago. it looks smaller, but also looks like thicker plastic.

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/30.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/31.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/32.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/33.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/34.jpg

hpi bronco modded to sit ral real low..

[badandy]

Wow are they that good? Reduce a lot of friction? I see nothing wrong with my mine and currently saving for a real car so I can't drop a lot of money for a set of bearings. I'm sorta packin up since I'm in college and really don't have much time for bashing.
I had about a gallon on my stock bearings and they were either locked up or very gritty.

When you guys upgrade where do you sell your stock stuff? Can we post our stuff for sale here? I don't see much traffic for parts on ebay.

[Saboteur]

I've done about 2 gallons so far and my bearings still run smooth. Guess there is no need to change them then. BTW, I'll post pics of my ride on the buggy thread in the nitro forum. Finally got them.

[Blacktiger]

Woohoo, can't wait to see the pics Saboteur!

[CRSMP5]

honestly if it is stock rtr parts there is no value.. now i fit was pro parts there is a value cause peopl ewith rtr ones want pro parts to upgrade..

[Saboteur]

I like my stock RTR1. Works for me. Really want a real car so I'm do my hardest not to get a nitro sedan or spend another $100+ on the buggy. Anyway here is the link to my ride.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1556909#post1556909post1556909

[badandy]

honestly if it is stock rtr parts there is no value.. now i fit was pro parts there is a value cause peopl ewith rtr ones want pro parts to upgrade..
I know it wouldn't be worth much but I'm sure there are people who break stuff or maybe double up on the front shock tower or something. I'm not so much looking for money as I am looking to get them out of my way.....but I'm not going to throw them away.

[badandy]

I like my stock RTR1. Works for me. Really want a real car so I'm do my hardest not to get a nitro sedan or spend another $100+ on the buggy. Anyway here is the link to my ride.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1556909#post1556909post1556909
Uhhh.....unless I need to lay off the crack I believe that's a Pro2 not a RTR1

[Saboteur]

Mine is the one with the 3PDFX and starter box. It's red. Wrong link probably.

[crymynal]

You looked at the wrong pic. Go up some and you will see it.

[crymynal]

Here is a pic of my new body for my RTR1

[crymynal]

and one more. I am currently cutting it for mounting. I will post more when its done. What do you think so far? First body and first airbrush job.

[CRSMP5]

i would have cut it out first.. besides that looks great...

[Blacktiger]

Saboteur, looks great bud! How you like the S5 so far?

Crymynal, should look great cut and mounted. Be sure to post pics when it's done.

[crymynal]

It's done!! What do you think? Honest opinions please!

[crymynal]

2 of 3

[crymynal]

3 of 3....and I know I'm going to get asked questions about this one, but I'll let them come before I answer it.

[CRSMP5]

the only thing i just noticed.. you used flame paint masks or dripps? they look like backward flames is why i wondered.. and yellow stone gaurds.. what did they come from.. i sill need a set of orange ones..

[Casey]

Are those yellow stone guards from a 9.5?

[Saboteur]

Blacktiger- The S5 is really powerful. Funny though I keep having to clear out the engine and only few times do I get some really wicked awesome acceleration. Othertimes it sounds a little rich after loading up. Weird.

[crymynal]

Yes the paint does look like blobs from the yellow (the look I wanted was as if I ran the car into a can of yellow paint) or flames from the blue. With the leftovers from the mask I can still do a flame job.

The stone guards are from the 9.5. They are not a perfect fit but you can make them work. What I did was line up the front holes, cut the screw extensions from the other two holes, drilled out new holes for the middle and rear, placed the extension in the new holes, and screwed it on. It still fits under the stock body and the crowd pleaser body. So I am happy.

I've decided to NOT use stickers. I only put stickers on the wing.

[low10s]

here is a pic of my baby with new RB WS7 II/Rb .063 pipe. when the wife is away i can break it in. i am working on a new body, will post pics when done.

[low10s]

it wont let me post it again, it is in the 1/8 buggy pic on the nitro forum, sorry

[low10s]

what clutch setup are most of you running, springs and shoes etc..

[Saboteur]

Stock Mugen 3 shoe clutch w/flywheel
Kyosho Blue medium springs all around
Trinity 30wt shock oil all around

Works great with my S5. Gonna get a new tuned pipe maybe but I'm thinking of an MT. The Savage SS seems good but I'm also eyin the MGT...even though I really want a kit.

[CRSMP5]

mugen shoes.. i like the 1.0 springs.. but got a set of 1.1 to try out...

[Blacktiger]

As of right now I'm running...
GS Storm Shoes
Mugen 1.0 Springs
Hot Bodies 3 pin flywheel

Only reason for the GS shoes was the Mugen ones were all out at the LHS the day I needed new shoes. The have been working fine though.

[CRSMP5]

race report of the lsp.. i know some have been dyin to hear how she races...

practice... i somehow managed to bend the aluminum cross link between bell cranks.. i think i need a 2nd one to stack on it to prevent this in the future.. never had that happen on a buggy...

qualifier 1 3rd tank fo total fuel.. 45sec lap :) im impressed.. set tq of my group of racers..

qualifier 2 ran hard but serious hard to handle in dusty situation.. somehow crack a front c hub... but no issue.. but will be replaced.. need to find a set of aluminum c hubs for a gs storm....

A-main.. i came in 3rd.. lots of hard competition.. funny part.. around the 7min mark of the 15min main i loose front wheel drive.. the right front CVD drive pin into the diff cup sheered off BOTH sides of the CVD... normally ony one breaks but no not me.. both break... im glad i have 50k oil in the center diff or i would not have pulled 3rd with a 2wd truck...

me will try calling hb tomarrow on the cvd.. else ill buy a set of savage ones and make my own... the only issue is will a savage cvd fit... i know i can shim a dogbone in teh rear via fuel tubing..

[badandy]

race report of the lsp.. i know some have been dyin to hear how she races...

practice... i somehow managed to bend the aluminum cross link between bell cranks.. i think i need a 2nd one to stack on it to prevent this in the future.. never had that happen on a buggy...

qualifier 1 3rd tank fo total fuel.. 45sec lap :) im impressed.. set tq of my group of racers..

qualifier 2 ran hard but serious hard to handle in dusty situation.. somehow crack a front c hub... but no issue.. but will be replaced.. need to find a set of aluminum c hubs for a gs storm....

A-main.. i came in 3rd.. lots of hard competition.. funny part.. around the 7min mark of the 15min main i loose front wheel drive.. the right front CVD drive pin into the diff cup sheered off BOTH sides of the CVD... normally ony one breaks but no not me.. both break... im glad i have 50k oil in the center diff or i would not have pulled 3rd with a 2wd truck...

me will try calling hb tomarrow on the cvd.. else ill buy a set of savage ones and make my own... the only issue is will a savage cvd fit... i know i can shim a dogbone in teh rear via fuel tubing..
Either you were on a very treacherous track or it seems the lsp isn't very durable at all

[burnouts]

reading comments from other people the axles are too long and bottom out in the drive cup when the suspension compress's. keep the comments coming about the durability, i am looking at buying one but live in New Zealand so any parts will have to be imported.

[CRSMP5]

well think about all there is to break on this thing... the 5$ plastic c hubs, and the aluminum cross brace that i think we can all say has NEVER been a issue on a buggy... the cvd is a odd issue.. and the track has a set of 6 ripple jumps, set of quads and a set of doubles that are like washboards... so yes you can say extream abuse on the drivetrain and suspention... but it proved 1 thing... for the bowties on off set rims, even when wet, it finished the day with no real issues... the biggest issue would be the CVD (in a 15min race with the rossi 28) and savage ones are shorter.. but require the output cup of the diff to be changed... im going to pick up the pieces and test fit it all to make sure it will work..

and me im unbiased.. ill tell it like it is as i find issues...

[CRSMP5]

reading comments from other people the axles are too long and bottom out in the drive cup when the suspension compress's. keep the comments coming about the durability, i am looking at buying one but live in New Zealand so any parts will have to be imported.


well i have found a cvd shaft from a LST is exact length.. so its going again.. now what you say is sort of wrong.. it does not bottom out in the drive cup.. i just looked, the problem is its too deep into the drive cup.. the shock has 1/8" more travle till it bottoms out vs when the cvd and cup bind a 1/4" limiter on the shock shaft is one solution OR cut off 1/4" of the drive cup will solve the issue forever :) thanks for that tidbit of info or i would have missed that... but where did ya get that info from??

the center diff is now toast too.. its locked solid.. with oil residue comming out between spur and diff cup.. 7 min of it working harder then it should is my fault though... so i guess ill run it locked :D for now...

[CRSMP5]

some oink photos.. thanks shallo..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/oink/pig1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/oink/pig2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/oink/pig3.jpg

see she did get dirty... the pig is in referance to this piece of work co worker ive had to deal with all week.. so she was a voodoo doll to be ripped apart.. the funny part was the jump when a lot of stuffing left its fat little belly.. was all over the track...

[CRSMP5]

well i talked to hb today.. they are sendign free replacement cvds, the mfg of them hardened the cross pin that broke 2 times and that makes them brittle.. they were unaware of the 1/8" too much suspention travel to lock the cvd up though... they did tell me a cvd from the associated truck will also work.. and were unawair of the LST one fitting.. associated = 23$ losi axle = 11$ much better deal.. but the associated one is 1/4" shorter so would solve the issue.. anyone who has a issue with the cvd they will replace them once the new ones come in!!!! just call them up and be a nice guy...

[PhillyB]

i love that last pic. death to savages lol.

looks like a cool truck, might have to check one out.

will you share your setup, are you running a .28?

thanks for keeping us informed, keep up the good work.

[CRSMP5]

set up... stock suspention adjustments, 7k front, 50k middle, 3k rear, rossi 28 with 15t cb, mugen shoes and 1.0 springs...

[Casey]

CRSMP5 - Does the Stadium have front kick-up?

[CRSMP5]

yep.. just like the buggy... just the rear is longer...

ive found the chassis to have all the holes for series 1 electronic set up, tank and anti bend rod too... if you had the chassis, center diff holders, spur, control arms, upper arms, shock towers, 2nd set of rear shocks, and tie rods could build one pretty easy with a roller chassis.. i kinda wonder what it would be like not so long but i think that would detrct from how stable it is..

[CRSMP5]

ohhh boy.. hb finally posted rtr version pics...

55006 1/8 Scale Lightning Stadium RR (RTR)

Kit includes:
Lightning Stadium RR (RTR) Features:
• .26 Power Factory Engine w/Jump Start
• Long Wheelbase Main Chassis
• Front and Rear chassis Braces
• Spiral Bevel Gears
• 50 Tooth Center Gear
• Composite Long Suspension Arms
• 4mm F/R Shock Towers
• Front CVA Joints
• F/R Long Shocks
• Full Sealed Bearing
• Racing Wheels & Tires
• Steel Differential Gears
• 2 Pc. Racing Clutch
• Low Profile Stadium Truck Body (Yellow)
• F/R Sway Bars
• Radio and Radio Gear
• High Torque Steering Servo
• Fuel Bottle
• Glow Starter
• 12 "AA" Batteries
• Plug Wrench

Equipment Needed:
• 20% Nitro Car Fuel
• 7.2V Battery for Jump-Starter

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstad_arm_comp.jpg
The Lightning Stadium suspension arms are much longer than the lighning2 buggy arms

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstad_spiralcut.jpg
The drive trains spiral-cut gears are smoother and more durable than standard gears

those olnly interesting photos the pro did not have...

[luvmypro]

Ok. Tomorrow I'm going to put my Picco 26 up on Ebay. Has about a gallon of 20% through it and doesn't have a mark on it. It has a brand new roto start also and I will include a 7.2v pack for it too. What can I expect to sell it for and if anyone is interested here, I'd rather sell it here first.

Anyway, I want to upgrade to the RB S5. I want something that is easy to tune and runs great. Something that I can just take my car off the shelf, put it down, start the motor, and play for a half hour and maybe a week down the road , do it again. So, is the RB S5 the right motor to do this with? What's to the break in of this motor? What kind of fuel should I use? what kind of plug? and where is the cheapest place to buy it? Another stupid question...is it pull start :confused: ?

[PhillyB]

ooh will those gears fit the buggy? lookin nice with the spiral cuts!

[CRSMP5]

yep philly they will fit the buggy...

rb.. non pull start.. hair dryer to break it in, and need to hook up with me to teach how to tune one day... there is a real issue of bottom end too rich and hsn too lean to compensate.. once you learn teh trick its easy.. just takes a long time to learn teh trick.. ebay cheapest place...

[RCILaser]

CRSMP5: where in the world did you get the plastic arms. I really are like the metal ones that come on my truck but those are probably a lot lighter. Hot bodies should know about the the suspension putting the front shafts in a bind on the output cups, because we had a lengthy discussion about it last Thursday. What I didn't prevent mine from breaking was install a half inch piece of fuel to being on the shock shaft. If you would be interested in installing two speed the chassis is cut out to fit the one from the lightning big on road car. give me a call . I like to compare notes


Robert Rienhardt
Atomic Motorsports
We Race Little Cars in Big Way