HB Lightning RR Forum v3.0 [Archive] - Page 8

Fatdaddy

02-14-2005, 12:27 AM

is there a way to change the gearing ?...... front / center / rear diffs ? to increase acceleration ? more low-end then top-speed
for the diff's you can change the fluid used to change the handleing charistics.

as far as changing the gears i dont think anybody makes custom gears.

Jeff Cain

02-14-2005, 12:54 AM

If you're looking for more accelleration, you need to consider power, gearing, and traction. As far as gearing goes, they're geared about as low as possible without making some major changes. You'd have to install a truggy spur gear setup or something along those lines. There is a 12t clutchbell, but last I knew it used a rather delicate roller bearing, and is not very practical. For traction, your buggy may be diffing out at the center diff and sending power to the front diff i.e. the power goes to the front wheels when they break traction, and they proceed to spin like mad. Try a heavier center diff oil. Associated makes a 20k diff oil for their MGT. This should slow the diffing action quite a bit in the center diff, but not lock it up. If you want a solid center diff, you could fill it with glue from a hot glue gun. According to rock crawler types, this is removable due to the parts already having a nice coat of oils acting like a release compound. For power, try running 30% if you're not already. You'll see minimal top speed gains, but quite noticeable gains in the accelleratiuon department. You might also consider a better engine than the one that comes with the RR (if that is, in fact, what you have).

tryin

02-14-2005, 10:08 AM

OK guys, time to buy a starter box or something, my wife is never going to be able to start this thing with the pull starter, not to mention I keep breaking the peice of crap. So any suggestions? I was wondering if I could buy the back plate for the roto start and purchase a shaft that would fit in my battery powered drill. I checked out the tiger drive system but I don't think they make one for my car. Does anyone know if the tiger drive shaft would fit into the roto start backplate? I would really rather go this route instead of having to haul around a starter box everywhere. If I do get a starter box, any recommendations/links/prices? It seem that they are so darn expensive. Anyway, still love the buggy, tired of the pull starter.

Thanks Guys,
Tryin

Jeff Cain

02-14-2005, 10:31 AM

I highly recommend this one:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUC2&P=7

It comes with wires to hook up to a car battery, but the best route would be to get an internal gel cell for about $25. The box doesn't have some wimpy little two motor setup, rather it has one 12V motor that cranks like a sonnabitch! The only real problem with this box is that it isn't 'RTR', so assembly is required. Not a biggie if you're mechanically inclined in any way.

tryin

02-14-2005, 11:34 AM

mandt131

02-14-2005, 12:17 PM

Thanks Jeff, it looks like I would have to get a 12v battery and a charger, approaching $100, putting it together isn't a problem. Any other ideas on the shaft drive setups, I would rather go this route? Anyone else know if I could find a shaft drive to put in my drill that would fit into the roto start back plate?

Thanks,
Tryin
if your running a standard lightning rr with the 21 or 26 you can get the back plate fora roto start for a savage heard this will fit if so you can pick up a hpi roto start shaft and battery for about 60 quid (british pounds)

tryin

02-14-2005, 02:22 PM

Well I might just go ahead and get the starter box Jeff recommended. I have a 12v 1.5 amp charger that I use to charge my Motorcycle batteries at home I guess it would work to charge this battery as well. If I will I will probably get that Ofna starter box and this battery
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL370&P=M

That way when I upgrade motors I can still use the same box. If I got the tiger drive system then I would have to change it when I got a new motor. Thanks guys, I'll let you know what I decide and how it works out.

mandt131

02-14-2005, 03:29 PM

Jeff Cain

02-14-2005, 05:16 PM

1.5 amps would be way to high, and you'd smoke your gel cell. This is the charger you'd want:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJC38&P=M

Actually, I use an old Tekin 112C charger to charge at about 250mAh, makes for a great charge. Too bad the charger runs about $180 lol. But I already had it, and it works great!

Once you get your starter box setup, you won't regret the purchase at all. Lines up perfect every time, cranks hard every time, and the standoff pegs lock the chassis into position, makes a great vehicle stand to get your buggy warmed up! Ofna makes some other great starter boxes, but that is the one I would recommend over any others.

v4whlracr

02-14-2005, 07:29 PM

CRSMP5

02-14-2005, 09:26 PM

i have a eb modded rossie 28 8 port turbo in my lightning stadium pro.. want to talk sick..

v4whlracr

02-14-2005, 09:51 PM

DodgeRamSRT

02-14-2005, 09:52 PM

Has anybody put a 2 speed in one of the buggies? I'm looking to run mine on pavement only at this point and am looking for the advantages a 2 speed can offer. Will one from a Lightning street work? Landmax 2? Just kicking around ideas...
Thanks for your help.

Jeff Cain

02-14-2005, 10:06 PM

Hi Jeff thanks for the info.......I took the stock HPI .21 engine out and put in a Ofna Hyper .21 8 port and it helped with performance.....but i still was getting passed by my friends.....so i stepped-up to a Team Infinity .28 5 port engine :-) it has lit my HB Lightning on FIRE !

I bet LOL! While the Ofna Hyper .21 8 port is an easy to tune and reliable engine, a powerhouse it's not. But it's still better than the stocker, that's for sure.

CRSMP5

02-14-2005, 10:07 PM

lightnign street will work, like 150$ in parts, you will need the center diff carriers from a lightnign stadium though, the cut out in the chassis is smaller, the stadium will raise the center diff a 1/8" to solve this issue.. ;)

tryin

02-15-2005, 08:19 AM

hey tryin you can use the roto / jump start shaft starter system on almost any engine these days ! browse through Ebay and i'm sure you will find a backplate for your paticular engine. and you can buy just the starter rod (dogbone end) and use it in any cordless drill to start your engine :-)

Thanks man, that is exactly what I wanted to know. I think I have myself talked into a starter box now because I think I am going to pick up another engine sometime in the future. I might just shop around on Ebay and see what I can come up with. Good group of guys, thanks for all the info!

DodgeRamSRT

02-15-2005, 09:52 PM

tryin

02-16-2005, 09:47 AM

Well I finally got my pull start back together and working again. I used the pull cord from a blind as suggested by CRSMP5. I am going to have to pull it back apart and use a smaller diameter cord but I pulled and pulled on that thing and It isn't breaking this time, just doesn't wind up all the way sometimes because of the bigger cord. My engine was a bitc* to get started because I had to leave the fuel in the tank/motor from the last time the pull start broke. I finally got it started and took it outside for some fun. Guess what needle I mistook for the low speed needle? Yep the midrange needle. Engine was running horrible and I couldn't figure it out for anything. My reciever/servo batts went dead then so I didn't even figure it out until I had put the car on charge. I moved the needle to apporximately the factory spec's and will run again soon to see how close it is, I guess it might take a while to get it dialed in. Has anyone else done this? I really thought for a while that my motor was fried! No matter what adjusting of the high speed and what I thought was the low speed made any difference (usually made it worse). Live and learn I guess. I can't wait until spring/summer so I can spend a little more time getting the motor tuned. Man I can't wait to get a starter box either! Pull starts suck!

Later,
Tryin

CRSMP5

02-16-2005, 11:25 AM

msn is flush with housing.. and you can adjust the msn vs the lsn, just have to know exactly what your doing.. os/force move the msn and do not have a lsn..

tryin

02-16-2005, 03:01 PM

msn is flush with housing.. and you can adjust the msn vs the lsn, just have to know exactly what your doing.. os/force move the msn and do not have a lsn..
I adjusted the msn to 3 1/4 turns out from all the way in, that is what the book described as the factory setting, I will check to see how close that is to flush tonight. (in case you haven't noticed CRSMP5, I don't know exactly what I am doing!)

gr8taz nitro

02-16-2005, 09:49 PM

the midrange adjustment basically changes the boost point on the engine. There is a point as the carb is opening and transitions from low to high that you get a "boost" as the air moves over the spray bar in the carb. The midrange is actually the needle seat and moves the whole needle seat to change the boost point. Most people shouldn't worry about adjusting the mid but if you do want to adjust it you should adjust the low speed double what you adjust the mid. If you did 1 full turn on the mid you would do two full turns on the low to keep it even.

upgrdman

02-17-2005, 08:19 PM

I'm a newbie, and I'm freaking out because I'm having some problems with my Lightening RR. I was riding it around in a park with lots of dirt and some small rocks/pebbles. Probably not the smartest thing to so, and I learned my lesson.

So my problem: The car does not roll as freely as it used to. It makes some squeaks, more noticable when I try to roll it in reverse. I have a feeling it has something to do with my center differential. I came to that conclusion because: When I roll one wheel, the opposite wheel rolls perfectly, no squeaking. Both for front and back wheels. So I don't think it is those differentials. But if I roll the two front, or two back wheels, (or all four) it does the squeaking. Like I mentioned earlier, the squeaking is slightly more louder when I gently push the car in reverse. Could this be an issue with the breaks? I don't see anything stuck in them, but then again I'm a newbie, and they small so perhaps I overlooked something.

Any help would be VERY appriciated. Also, is this something that I neeed to fix immediately, or can it wait a week or perhaps two. I'm fairly busy with a full-time job, and college.

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

P.S. I'm not new to RC cars, but I am very new to the terminology, so please keep that in mind if possible :) I didn't even know what a gear differential was until I looked throught the exploded-diagrams in the back of the manual... Thanks again.

upgrdman

02-17-2005, 08:58 PM

Oh, and I already tried putting some oil on the umm... I don't know what they're called. The two gears: a little one that looks like its directly connected to the purple fly-wheel, and the bigger gear that connects to that small one.

I used some "3-in-1 Household Oil" because I've been told my many people that its better than WD40. Anyone see any problems with me using it, as opposed to buying some expensive bottle of oil from the local hobby shop? Here's some info from the oil's container: "Lubricates, cleans, polishes. Prevents rust and tarnish. Contains LubraShield(TM) The rust preventer."

I use the Nitro cleaner spray can stuff regularly to keep my buggie looking clean, and I assume that the Nitro cleaner stuff also removes some of the oil that lubricates parts on my buggie. What should I make sure to oil up again after each usage?

Thanks again,
--Farrell F.

P.S. I *do* use the expensive air-filter oil from my local hobby shop to oil up the air filter. Is regular household oil good enough, or what? $5 for a really small bottle that was only half-filled seems really expensive to me, for oil...

CRSMP5

02-18-2005, 05:36 AM

it sounds as if the gear mesh or the clutch bell bearings took a dump.. i say remove the 4 pan head screws that hold the motor in, hold the purple plates to the chassis and see what happens, if all is well then spin the clutch bell on the motor, it should spin free and easy if not there is the issue..

tryin

02-18-2005, 09:33 AM

I have heard others say to be prepared to replace clutch bell bearings on Nitro's pretty often, any truth to this? Is this a HB only part or can we use Kyosho and others? I might pick up a couple of spares.
Well I cheaped out on the starter box for now. I found a roto start complete with the backplate new on ebay for $35 shipped and couldn't turn it down. I'm not planning on getting a new motor any time soon and this should help my wife be able to use the car whenever I'm not around. I think she will be much more happy with the car. I have heard of quality issues with the roto start but I guess I can just put the shaft in my drill and use it it I have to. Does any of the higer end engines have roto start capability? I guess the stock Roto might not be able to turn them over but I know my 18v dewalt will.

Thanks,
Tryin

fanke19

02-18-2005, 10:20 AM

The only thing about using a drill with the Roto Start shaft is the speed that it spins at.

CRSMP5

02-18-2005, 10:25 AM

clutch bell bearings, i cannto say for me its common, but i also set mesh right, dont allow the clutch to slip, it comes down to heat makes them go bad..

tryin

02-18-2005, 11:26 AM

The only thing about using a drill with the Roto Start shaft is the speed that it spins at.
I guess I will have to try it. My second speed (high speed) on the dewalt is pretty fast.

tryin

02-18-2005, 11:28 AM

clutch bell bearings, i cannto say for me its common, but i also set mesh right, dont allow the clutch to slip, it comes down to heat makes them go bad..
You wouldn't happen to know if they are common among buggies? Other bearings common?

CRSMP5

02-18-2005, 06:12 PM

the bearigns are the same except for those goofy needle bearings some things use..

i use ofna clutch bells that are venter.. never had a issue... just has to be shimmed properly

upgrdman

02-19-2005, 04:13 AM

I'm really confused. I don't what any of what you said was, except the "motor". I would really really appriciate it if you could dumb it down a _lot_ for me. It almost sounds like a forign language.

So to start off, is this what you meant:
http://www.cgartwork.com/misc/lightningRRcloseup-annotated.jpg

If that is what you meant, will it just slide out in the direction of the orange arrow, or will I have to remove that um... black pipe thing coming out of the back? If so, how...just push on the wrap-around spring?

And now on to the "forign language" :) What is a gear mesh? clutch bell bearings? and what "purple plates"? Sorry, it's just that I don't know anything about engines, nitro, or even real cars...

Thanks again,
--Farrell F.

v4whlracr

02-19-2005, 10:09 AM

Hey tryin you can use your drill ...... just be sure its turning the right direction ( reverse ) ( counter-clockwise ) and have a full charge on the battery .... most engines turn about 5000 rpm's at idle

v4whlracr

02-19-2005, 10:31 AM

hey upgrdman the engine mount screws are what you have pictured ...... the chassis to mount screws are on the bottom of the chassis and hold the engine mounts to the chassis ( screws thru purple plates ) as well as allow the engine and mounts to slide side-to-side to adjust gear mesh. gear mesh is very important ! gear mesh is : how well the teeth on the spur gear (large gear) meet the teeth on the clutchbell ( small gear on engine) they should mesh together smoothly ...... not too tight or to loose ! most people use a piece of notebook paper as guide ..... you should be able to pull a strip of paper thru the gears without tearing it ......

i hope this helps

CRSMP5

02-19-2005, 11:57 AM

removing engine via removing the 4 screws into the purple plate will not make you reset gear mesh, MUCH easier for what your doing.., they are the "pan head" screws that screw into the puprle mounts, very very short, and are phillips head.. do not touch the allen head bolts ad you will have to reset gear mesh if you do..

upgrdman

02-20-2005, 04:12 AM

Thanks guys! One last question for now :) Those pan-head screws are a BITCH to remove... I'm on the virge of stripping one right now, so I stopped. Are these screws the type that I have heard called "thread locked" ? I assume that means some sort of liquid was initially applied to create a strong bond between the screw and its socket, no? Will I need to buy some thread unlocker? If so, do I just put a drop or two on the sockets that hold those screws? (the ones just below where the allen screws are... on the top side of the car.) How long do I have to wait?

And if so, while I'm at the hobby shop, would it be a good idea for me to pick up a allen wrench set, and a feul filter? Those seem like things I should get for my toolbox, and engine longevity, respectively. Any tips or warnings?

Thanks again! You guys are great!
--Farrell F.

upgrdman

02-20-2005, 06:43 AM

just great. i stripped out two of the four pan-head screws. this is going to be real fun...

CRSMP5

02-20-2005, 07:50 AM

you have to use a good phillips screwdriver.. the wrong one will strip them.. its size #3 but now you getta reset the gear mesh, all i can say is let the LHS do it or see if you can find some help from someone you know..

mandt131

02-20-2005, 09:29 AM

i upgraded my steering servo to hitec 645 mg know my throttle servo has given up can't afford to replace it yet is it ok to use the original hot bodies steering servo on the throttle/brake till i can afford a new one not sure as the instructions state its a high torque ?

fanke19

02-20-2005, 11:31 AM

mandt131, of course it's ok to use your original steering servo. In fact, almost all last year I ran a used traxxas Tmaxx 2055 steering servo in my buggy for throttle. Only problem was that eventually the long mainscrews that run through the body of the servo gave way, and the servo actually "dropped" and left me without throttle. Probably just couldn't handle the constant slamming ( resulting from my "not so smooth" driving style ) ;)

Danno

02-20-2005, 01:53 PM

I have like a million futaba s3003 servos from cheap radios that I buy , I think they work great for throttle /brake ! After all I think people over kill on the throttle servo , it really doesn`t have to be that strong , just quick .

CRSMP5

02-20-2005, 04:20 PM

correct.. a 3003 is a great throttle servo..

upgrdman

02-20-2005, 05:41 PM

OK, so now I'll get a set of allen wrenches so I can remove the engine that way. So I don't using one that's just slightly too small, and strip those as well, what size allen wrench do I need to use for those screws on the bottom?

Thanks :)

Fatdaddy

02-20-2005, 06:27 PM

just great. i stripped out two of the four pan-head screws. this is going to be real fun...
same thing happened to me a while back. drill it out with a 3/16"drill bit, and then buy some new motor plates, and nice allen head screws. ;)

Fatdaddy

02-20-2005, 06:33 PM

CRSMP5

02-20-2005, 06:41 PM

it better be a good quality 2.5mm tool.. if not they will strip too..

fanke19

02-20-2005, 08:55 PM

Bondhus is a good name, they're affordable ( about $20 a set I think ), and they have a nice ball driver tip for fast easy install. Cheap chinese wrench sets will strip out soft screws very quickly!

upgrdman

02-21-2005, 06:13 AM

So I'm kinda curious. I did not have time to go to the LHS and buy a good set of allen wrenches, and I've been reading the replies. What makes a cheaper allen wrench more likely to strip an allen bolt?

And well why use allen bolts anyway? Just by the look of it, it looks like they would be super easy to strip... do buggie makers use them as a sort of way of weeding out the newbies? :) :)

But seriously...why?

Thanks again!

CRSMP5

02-21-2005, 09:10 AM

cheap allen wrenches strip themselves very easily.. the whole propblem you have as of right now is cheap tools.. dont skimp, i say losi ones as ive stripped the set screw out of handles (it presses the screw right out of the aluminum with threads) using them to loosen engine mount screws on even the cheaper dynimite/ofna ones

tryin

02-22-2005, 10:45 AM

same thing happened to me a while back. drill it out with a 3/16"drill bit, and then buy some new motor plates, and nice allen head screws. ;)
You might be able to find an easy out that small. It requires you to drill a small hole in the screw and then insert the easy out in the hole. It threads in the same direction the screw rotates out. Worth a try. You can find them at any hardware store.

fanke19

02-22-2005, 11:06 AM

You might be able to find an easy out that small. It requires you to drill a small hole in the screw and then insert the easy out in the hole. It threads in the same direction the screw rotates out. Worth a try. You can find them at any hardware store.
Here's another Tool & Die trick that you may or may not have tried. This will work if you can get to the backside of the screw, for example if the screw threads through the piece and sticks out the bottom. If you can get a good clean center punch in the center of the bottom of the screw, drill into it with a drill smaller than the screw. When you start drilling, if you're lucky, the torque of the drill will break the screw loose, and the drill will catch traction on the screw, and actually spin the screw right out of the piece you're drilling.

tryin

02-22-2005, 01:18 PM

Here's another Tool & Die trick that you may or may not have tried. This will work if you can get to the backside of the screw, for example if the screw threads through the piece and sticks out the bottom. If you can get a good clean center punch in the center of the bottom of the screw, drill into it with a drill smaller than the screw. When you start drilling, if you're lucky, the torque of the drill will break the screw loose, and the drill will catch traction on the screw, and actually spin the screw right out of the piece you're drilling.
I'll keep that in mind!

Danno

02-22-2005, 04:44 PM

If it is a button head allen screw , take a dremel tool with a cut off wheel in it , cut a slot in th head of the screw and then use a large straight blade screwdriver to remove the screw . It worked for me .

upgrdman

02-22-2005, 08:26 PM

Well I finally had time to go buy some decent drill bits, and I drill'd out the two stripped screws. Luckily for me, they were both on the same side, so I probably won't have to worry about reseting the gear mesh... just screw the replacement engine mount onto the chassis, then screw the allen bolts onto the engine... And with the clutch bell not touching the big gear, the car now rolls forward and backward very nicely and without squeaking.

I went to the LHS and bought a nice set of allen wrenches, and I disassembled the clutch bell (unscrews the allen bolt, took it off along with the washers, the bearing, the bell, the other bearing. Left the clutch on becuase I don't know what I'm doing) and I was kinda surpised. I checked the bearings, and they feel okay. Holding it in one hand, and using my index finder to turn the inner part feels very smooth, for both bearings.

I'm having issues with this web site not likeing long posts, so please see the next post...

upgrdman

02-22-2005, 08:27 PM

So the weird thing: When I removed the clutch bell, the long spring for the clutch was half dissconnected, at least it looked like that to my unexpierenced eyes... The cluctch looked sorta like "O\" with the spring only attached at one end, and the spring was pointing up into the air at maybe a 45 degress angle... like "\" ... am I stupid, or should both ends be attached, and the spring not free? The diagrams in the back of the manual make it look like it wraps around... The other end of the spring did not have a loop, so I guess it broke off? Then while I was looking around, the spring fell off completely... but one end still has a loop on it.

So do I need a new spring? And how does it go on... I know *nothing* about clutches and how to assemble/dissasemble them :(

Here's a quick photo, if it helps:
http://www.cgartwork.com/misc/clutch-annotated.jpg

Also, when I reassemble this, what parts should be re-oiled? And is 3-in-1 Household Oil okay? If not, I also have After-Run Oil and Foam Air Filter Oil...should I get something else?

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

CRSMP5

02-22-2005, 08:49 PM

the spring is the issue...

my suggestion... you may not like this idea.. BUT take the engine to the LHS with all the parts.. aka bearings shims and such, ask them if they have a savage 3 shoe flywheels and shoes and all and upgrade the clutch to teh 3 shoe design, will be about 20-30$ in parts have them install it for you and learn along the way..

the hb 2 shoe clutch/wrap around spring is kinda a pain as you just learned, they come unhooked, the spring is sold in pairs for like 2$ though... findign them is a different story.. but the sprign you have is deformed, will not work right again, so needs replaced at minimum.. to upgrade to teh 3 shoe is just easier with more options for clutches in the future..

CRSMP5

02-22-2005, 09:25 PM

here ya go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Lightning_gtx2/lightning_gtx2.jpg

55008 Lightning GTX2 (RTR)

Lightning GTX2 (RTR) Features:

• Dual .26 POWER FACTORY ENGINE W/JUMP START
• LONG WHEELBASE MAIN CHASSIS(7075-T6)
• SPIRAL BEVEL GEARS
• 50T CENTER GEAR
• 4mm F/R SHOCK TOWERS(7075-T6)
• COMPOSITE LONG SUSPENSION ARMS
• 8 LONG SHOCKS
• FULL SEALED BEARING
• HARDENED STEEL DIFFERENTIAL GEARS
• ALUMINUM FRONT SUSPENSION HOLDER
• RACING WHEELS & TIRES
• DUAL BRAKE SYSTEM
• LIGHTNING GTX2 PRE-PRINTED BODY
• RADIO & RADIO GEAR
• DUAL HIGH TORQUE STEERING SERVOS
• FUEL BOTTLE
• GLOW STARTER
• 12 "AA" BATTERIES
• PLUG WRENCH

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Lightning_gtx2/gtx2_chassis.jpg

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Lightning_gtx2/gtx2_carbs.jpg
Check out the dual engine layout! Two of everything is required for ease of tuning and starting

Dual carbs provide the aspiration to the Dual .26 racing engines.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Lightning_gtx2/gtx2_brace.jpg
The truck has been beefed up quite a bit over its GT counterpart. It produces huge amounts of power that require stronger parts in order to keep it structurally sound.

tryin

02-23-2005, 09:44 AM

That is just sick. I can only imagine how much power this thing must have. I don't have much love for the daul engine layout though, I have a hard enough time with one! I would say it would eat throught a gallon of fuel pretty fast to.

Well I got my roto start last night. The first thing I had to do was cut the old Tamaiya battery adapter off and solder on some wire extensions and some Deans connectors so I could use the 7.2 battery and charger I had. I hated tearing the thing apart before I even got to see if it worked but my only other option was to make an adapter and I didn't feel like waiting to get the parts. Everything went fine, taking apart and putting back together was straight forward and simple.

I pulled the engine and put the new backplate on, direct fit, nice. Charged the battery, threw it in the roto start, pushed the button and buzzzzzz! I couldn't belive how fast the shaft was turning! I put the roto start into the back plate and within three seconds the engine was alive. Man this is so much better, it has totally changed my perspective about nitro RC. It would always take me a couple of minutes to get it started the other way, and that is if the pull start didn't break first. If the engine flamed out, forget about getting it restarted with the pull starter.

I would highly recommend this to anyone that was going to keep the stock engine and wanted more enjoyment out of the RC experience. Way to go HPI.

Tim'sLosi

02-23-2005, 10:01 AM

Now that does it...that is a must have for my corral! That truck looks done right, not just a second thought remake.

CRSMP5

02-23-2005, 10:58 AM

well now i see why the stadium racer version has the rear brace design flaw.. they had that in the works at the same time.. but yea i have one on a once able to be gotten list now..

upgrdman

02-23-2005, 11:32 PM

Finally I got it all reassembled and working. I ended up staying with my current clutch, and they installed the new spring, to show me how. I had problems starting the car though, so I brought it back to the LHS and a helpful (but kinda grumpy) guy helped me out, and he played with the various screws as well. He got it working alright, and it turned out I just forgot to prime the carb :( ... stupid me. But he played with the screws anyway...and now it will start, then stall when I apply hardly any acceloration.

If I have it on the ground, it will stall before it even move 2 feet. If I hold it, with the wheels turning freeely, I cannot get past maybe 1/8 or 1/5 throttle.

I turned the car sideways, with the exaust exit pointing towards the ground, and a _stream_ of fluid came out for about one half of a second, then some little drips for a second or two after that. Seems like a LOT of feul, no?

I read through the manual again, and I'm guessing its the Low-Speed needle that needs to be re-adjusted? I came to that conclusion because it only stalls when I apply throttle, it doesn't just stall if it sits there for 10 or 20 seconds (it will eventually stall though, but I'm told that is perfectly normal) Am I right?

I have never adjusted the screws. How do I tell what is "3 and a half turns from fully closed"? Should I tighten it all the way closed, then loosed it up again, makeing sure to pay attention to how many full turns?

Thanks yet again :)
--Farrell F.

tryin

02-24-2005, 08:32 AM

It sounds like the motor is to rich. Just because it is stalling off idle dosen't mean it is just the low speed needle, you could have the high speed set to rich and loading up the engine with to much fuel. I would set all the needles to factory (don't touch the mid speed needle). Do it as you described, screw the needle in all the way and then back it out to what the stock settings where. Adjust the high speed needle first. You will probably have to lean it out about a half turn or so, it will depend on the weather. After you have the high speed adjusted you can adjust the low speed. If it is bogging right off idle and you see excessive smoke lean it out a little. Your idle will increase as you lean out the needle, you will have to close the idle screw a little to get idle speed down some. Always make several passes after each adjustment to get an idea of exactly what you did. Only make small 1/8 turn adjustments on the needles. You might have to leave your glo plug ignitor on for just a little while after you get the car started to help it keep from stalling.

Good luck. I'm not a pro at this but I think this should get you going, if anyone knows any better please correct me.

rcchris

02-24-2005, 07:09 PM

i just lost all compression in my stock lightning engine, what engine would you guys recommand replacing it with. i would like to keep it moderatly priced. thanks for the help.

Tim'sLosi

02-24-2005, 07:53 PM

The OFNA 8 port Hyper 21 is a good replacement for the money.

TC3Racer

02-24-2005, 09:52 PM

If you dont race very often (or if your track does not enforce engine size) I would reccomend the Sportwerks .26. At 130 bucks its a great engine and definitely a step up from the stock engine in the Lightning. They have tons of info on it at www.sportwerksrc.com

Danno

02-25-2005, 07:40 AM

XTM 24.7 works for me .

tryin

02-25-2005, 08:52 AM

From what I understand the XTM .21 pro is well regarded around here as a budget engine. From what I understand it can be had for about $110 as well. People on the Nitro forum are stating it will smoke the hyper eight port and is easy to keep tuned and has good durability. If I needed a new budget engine, I would probably try this one. rcchris, how many gallons did you get through the stock engine? What didi you think of it? You can pick up the .21 and .26 stock engines on ebay for around $60-$100.

CRSMP5

02-25-2005, 09:57 AM

the backplate of the sport werks/mach will not fit into a lightning.. its way too big..

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=1688839&postcount=788

that post has the mod on it.. aka ho wto change parts so it will fit.. also a gs storm backplate/1 way will make it fit.. p.s. its in the lightnign stadium thread..

rcchris

02-25-2005, 08:32 PM

i only put 10-15 tanks of fuel through it. i do not know why the engine lost compression. it never overheated, besides that it was fine.

CRSMP5

02-25-2005, 10:52 PM

mandt131

02-26-2005, 08:38 AM

is there any where on here to advertise nitro cars for sale addicted to lightning thinking about selling my schumacher menace 21 could do with knowing where to advertise uk only

CRSMP5

02-26-2005, 10:22 AM

in the buy sell section...

Fatdaddy

02-26-2005, 04:18 PM

v4whlracr

02-26-2005, 08:37 PM

Hey rcchris , i have a Team Infinity .28 engine (185.00) in my Lightning ...... there are alot of good choices out there.......the Sportwerks .26 (175.00) is an awesome engine for the price ! if you want to stay "Roar Legal" the Ofna Hyper .21 8-port race engine is a great deal !

tryin

02-26-2005, 10:06 PM

how much dust? when i got my LSt i di dnot take the air filter apart, same style as the lightning has, and wipe the edges that touch the plastic with vasoline.. end result.. dead engine in 1 tank...

http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/lst/filter/2.jpg
1 tank of fuel... = dead engine all it needed was a wipe of vasoline on the filter edges where they touch plastic :(

What are your other impressions of the LST? Good or bad? I am thinking about a truck for my next toy. The LST seems like it should be the baddest of the bunch but everybody still seems to be in love with the savage. I might get the savage kit for my next project. I think it would be fun to actually build a truck/ car.

Peace,
Tryin

CRSMP5

02-27-2005, 12:09 AM

Fatdaddy

02-28-2005, 12:19 AM

Well Travis Amezcua blew it in the A-main tonight. he got 9th place. he had a good start, then got caught up in a bunch of accidents.

i finished 3rd in the I main, so i cant talk crap :p

tryin

02-28-2005, 11:40 AM

honestly.. you racing or bashing? the hb lightning stadium is a kick arss race truck aka truggy (people are breakign track records set by 1/8th scale buggies with them)... but for bashing a lst is ok.. but a new savage ss 4.6 would be faster/more durable then the lst.. but the lst would still out handle a savage on the rough stuff..

Just bashing, I doubt I would ever race the monster but wouldn't totally rule it out. I wouldn't mind the hb stadium but would really like something with a two speed and reverse. Something that could really climb well, speed not really a huge issue. Durability is an issue.

CRSMP5

02-28-2005, 01:17 PM

well check out a new savage ss 4.6 the nice thing on the stadium is it uses 95% same plastic as the buggy... if you only need 1 car of parts for 2 then parts become easy..

Saboteur

02-28-2005, 01:59 PM

Well my HB is back with the stock engine. Hoping to get the Ofna/Picco .27 or the Wasp for my MGT and switch back into the lightning. Some speed will be nice.

CRSMP5

02-28-2005, 09:15 PM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/LightningParts300.jpg

sneek photos...

BishopRyan

03-01-2005, 09:41 AM

i was just curious if anybody knows if anyone is making alum. arms for the HB lightning rr i was told that i might find them for a kyosho 7.5 and they are identical but im just not sure thanks in advance for any advice

charlesd

03-01-2005, 01:23 PM

Yes, kyosho parts do fit. I have the aluminum kanai 2 pin holders ( gpm ). The 0,1,2,3 degree front and back.

The whole front end can be interchanged if you wish. The diff gears are the same, wheel hubs, etc..

The only thing i have not tried is the rear end of the kyosho on the lightning.

Saboteur

03-01-2005, 01:43 PM

I think I'll try to convert my RTR1 into an onroad street menace. It's lookin pretty thin with the HPI .21BB, no pipe, no st srvo, and stock thr servo. A new set of onroad wheels, bodyposts, bumper, 3 shoe flywheel w/alum shoes, servos will do the trick. Anyone know if an Ofna 2speed will fit in the car?

CRSMP5

03-01-2005, 01:50 PM

ive made a ofna 2 speed fit.. have to drill new holes and change the rear dogbone/cvd... but its like 150$ in parts.. might as well buy the lightning street parts, get the center diff housing from a stadium, rasies the gear set up 1/8th inch, else the hole int eh chassis will be in the way of gears... that will be 150ish but no new holes to be drilled..

Saboteur

03-01-2005, 02:05 PM

Got links to what you used? I'm just wondering, because I won't be getting the two speed for a while.

Fatdaddy

03-01-2005, 04:32 PM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/LightningParts300.jpg

sneek photos...
ooohhhhh!!!

when are those going to be avaliable, and who is making them? i want them! :D

is the top photo the top plate for the center diff?

Fatdaddy

03-01-2005, 04:33 PM

oh, and in other news i stripped out the mounting posts for the fuel tank on my L2, and now everybody is on backorder with thier fuel tanks :mad:

anybody have a spare they want to give me? :)

tryin

03-01-2005, 04:51 PM

Keep an eye on ebay, there is one on there every other week or so.

Fatdaddy

03-01-2005, 05:54 PM

Keep an eye on ebay, there is one on there every other week or so.
for the lightning 2?

i dont think ive ever seen any parts for it on there :o

CRSMP5

03-01-2005, 10:36 PM

tanks 330-532-1783 he had some.. no idea if they pro1 or 2.. but pro1 will fit pro2

Fatdaddy

03-02-2005, 03:02 AM

tanks 330-532-1783 he had some.. no idea if they pro1 or 2.. but pro1 will fit pro2
cool.

hey, whats the lowdown on those carbon fiber parts?

CRSMP5

03-02-2005, 09:12 AM

still waiting.. those are v2 parts.. the radio tray is different vs v1.. it was just a photo i was given and though id share.. as soon as they are avaliable ill let the forum know.. :D and yep thats for the center diff too..

BishopRyan

03-02-2005, 09:51 AM

Saboteur

03-02-2005, 12:38 PM

Here is my bug now. Gonna try to do the conversion soon. I think I may need to drop the front shock tower for a smaller one and keep the rear. Or I may need to drop the rear. It's gonna keep snowing though and that may postpone the whole operation. I'd really like to try and get my HB to be like that Ofna GTP. Just run around without worry of anything fouling up the drivetrain if I go offroad or in heavily debris littered areas. :) I really wish I thought about this before when I still had the RB S5. Woulda been a sweet engine for the project. WHY ME!!!!

Saboteur

03-02-2005, 02:09 PM

*sigh* NVM. Takes too much to get everything. Think I'll just slap the Picco .26 and a good pipe with it in the car. Will alternate between the MGT and the HB. That should provide me with some great power. I wonder how will it compare to the RB S5. Anyone know?

upgrdman

03-02-2005, 02:11 PM

Well I finally had time to get my engine back to runable (the guy at the LHS tuned it one day when I had problem starting it, (forgot to prime the carb) and when he tuned it I could see fluid flying out of the exaust even when idleing...he said it was "okay" ... argh)

So it's running pretty good now, only two issues: The high end seems not so high now... like it lost a little speed, and the engine does not have quite the same sound at full throttle (but very close sound). Which screw or screws should I tweak, and how so? (clockwise, or counter-clockwise...and how much at a time? 1/4th?)

The second issue is just that it idles a little high, and after the engine warms up a little, it can roll slowly if I don't apply brakes. I tried lowering the idle a little, but then it stalls as soon as I let go of the pull-start cord...but I should expierement a little more. Pulling ever-so-slightly on the throttle when starting the engine will help, and I will try that tomorrow.

I checked the temp with my IR temp gauge, and it showed about 210-215F when I aim it directly at the glow plug, with the top of the temp gauge almost touching the top of the heatsink. This is after about 10 minutes of run time, with plenty of full-accelorations and high speed. Looking in the manual, it could tolerate being a tad hotter as well, so am I correct in assuming that the temperature is okay?

Thanks :)
--Farrell F.

Fatdaddy

03-02-2005, 03:36 PM

CRSMP5

03-02-2005, 08:22 PM

lean teh HSn and richen teh LSN a tad..

tryin

03-03-2005, 09:12 AM

upgrdman,
1/4 turns are to much. Try 1/16 turns and run the car a few passes before retouching the needles. Do you have the instructions manual? It has a description of the high, middle and low speed needle original positions and how to lean/richin the needles. If you don't have the manual, clockwise leans the needle. What where the outside temps when you where running?

upgrdman

03-05-2005, 06:05 AM

I got my buggy all working nicely now, but then I had a wheel fly off...I guess the lug nut got loose. I got the nut and wheel, but I can't for the hell of it get the wheel back on. It's the front-left one, and I have the car standing on the right side wheel, with the left side in the air. I've had one of the rear wheels pop off before, and it was a bitch, but I got it on eventually, but I have been trying for over an hour and can't get the front one back on. I feel bad going back to the LHS yet again, it seems like I go there once a week just for them to help, and that's not really fare to them...

I even tried putting a little 3-in-1 oil on the whell socket, and the part on the wheel, and it still won't slide on correctly. I looked and had the edges lined up right, and I just can't get it to budge. I tried slight angles, and even put a lot of pressure on it... and it still won't go in!

Any tips? and why the **** do they have to make them such a tight fit!?!? I'm so friggen close to taking a hammer to it just to relieve my stress!

upgrdman

03-05-2005, 06:12 AM

Nevermind, I got it on. I decided to sand a LITTLE of the edges of the plastic off... just a very little, so it would still have a LOT to grab onto...and it worked.

Still tho,,, ***... why make it them so tight?

And as I type, I'm thread-locking, all four wheel nuts so I will hopefully not have to deal with this sh*t anymore. Man this was really making me mad!

Saboteur

03-06-2005, 01:36 AM

Anyone running 14 or 15T CB? Do they really create more stress on the shoes? I'm thinking of swapping that and the 3 shoe setup off the MGT into the HB for the time being with the Picco .26. The Picco .27 looks good too, but I'm waiting for a review.

niak

03-07-2005, 07:51 AM

i cant believe i read this whole thread !

i have a sacker pro, i thought i might post some pics

i have added Hyper7 wheels, Badlands tyres, CP MP7.5 and a proline wing. oh and the P5

http://www.rcperth.com/ebay/buggy0102.JPG
http://www.rcperth.com/ebay/buggy0112.JPG

Saboteur

03-07-2005, 08:21 AM

Cool. Looks good man. Whats under the body? :) :p

CRSMP5

03-07-2005, 09:30 AM

sweet looking buggy i wish we could get blue parts here.. you read v1, v2 and this whole thread??? i fya only read this part there is 2 others :D

Saboteur

03-07-2005, 11:38 AM

Yeah I had to bed my LHS to order HB stuff for me, but they are just too lazy to get em. :mad:

niak

03-07-2005, 06:25 PM

ill take pics of the inside and post them

i made a holder for the temp guage as you can see thru the window

you can get the parts, or the whole car from www.radiomodels.com.au (http://www.radiomodels.com.au)

they are the cheapest in Aus by far. its where i get all my parts from.

i havnt read the V 1 and 2. i cant believe there are so many people into this buggy!

CRSMP5

03-07-2005, 10:21 PM

shoudl see th elightning stadium thread.. up to about 5 pages a week now..

more sneek photos..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/cf/VPTrannybraceTruck.jpg

charlesd

03-08-2005, 05:52 AM

i looked over at tower and couldnt find any kyosho hop ups do you know where i could look

What parts are you looking for ?

BishopRyan

03-08-2005, 09:40 AM

really anything i need a new rear shocktower to start and the alum brace in front of the rear diff ive even thought of a front sway any hop-up advice for this buggy would be great i havent had to drop a penny in this ride for about the first 2 months until last week i missed the ramp and nailed the curb cartwheels galore im very impressed with this buggy the fit and finish thou its great also this .21 was so easy to tune im glad i got this instead of the ofna i was thinking about

BishopRyan

03-08-2005, 09:42 AM

also i once saw a purple hex screw kit on the buggy that the owner of the my lhs owned he said it was a ofna screw kit but i cant find it anywhere if any one knows fire me off a link id like to get it

stonesavage

03-08-2005, 04:20 PM

Honestly I don't have the time! COULD SOMEONE PLEASE!! help me I would like to know what parts from the lightning buggy fit the lightning stadium more importanly Will the diffs and bulkhead cases from the buggy fit the LS :confused: IF YOU COULD MAKE A SMALL LIST what fit's you would be god.

TMaxxBenny25

03-08-2005, 05:25 PM

I really want one of these buggies. WHat are the highs and lows about it. Please dont "sugarcoat" stuff to make it better.

stonesavage

03-08-2005, 08:39 PM

charlesd

03-08-2005, 09:46 PM

Bishopryan,

I changed to trinity hinge pins ( no more e-clips)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=TRIC1164&FVPROFIL=++&search=Go

If you want gpm stuff that will fit -- the entire front end can be changed to a kyosho . Here's a link -- i hope you'll see the listings.

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=595_426_355_366_394

I changed my pin holders -- called lower arm bulk, upper arm bulk on the links page. More options such as 0,1,2,3 degree etc,,,

CRSMP5

03-08-2005, 09:52 PM

stone savage.. there si 3 versions of this threads.. this one may be 75 pages, but there are 2 others with 75+ each too.. so more like 250+ pages :D

yes all the basic plastic except suspention is same as stadium..

tryin

03-09-2005, 09:06 AM

I really want one of these buggies. WHat are the highs and lows about it. Please dont "sugarcoat" stuff to make it better.

We have about 250 pages of info on the buggy right here at your fingertips. What more info could you want? I can tell you that it is a very durable buggy, the engine is a little lax on power but is easy to tune and should be a good basher. Other than that the buggy can be bashed or put another engine in and race against the big names if you want.

CRSMP5

03-09-2005, 09:41 AM

tmaxxbenny25.. in the 3 years of lightning ownership, i have changed wingmounts, one set of C hubs, 2 of the pro2 shock shafts, 4 shock ends on my stadium, the thing is durable with no issues.. my suggestion i sbuying a pro version over the rtr as the upgrades it comes with will be all you will ever need.. if you can fidn a old pro1 its a better deal then a pro2...

BishopRyan

03-09-2005, 09:47 AM

I really want one of these buggies. WHat are the highs and lows about it. Please dont "sugarcoat" stuff to make it better.
i recently went through what your going through i started with my s-maxx but really wanted a buggy and had it narrowed down to ofna and hotbodies on about the 300.00 budget im so glad i got the hotbodies this buggy is great i got no complaints at all the out of the box setup is solid ive never broke anything on this buggy except one lower arm and that was user error missed the jump and hit the curb. even the servos are ok. i found myself replacing part after part on my maxx just to get it the way i want it, you know were im satisfied with driving it, but ive actually enjoyed not dropping a penny in this buggy its so easy to tune and fast as hell even with just the stock .21 im no racer but everyone at my lhs is and some have the very same buggy that ive got and they might have 300.00 in it to get a full race setup thats not much compared to alot thats out there. i got so much mixed feedback on everything out there but i got 95% or so positive feedback on this buggy. i think youll love and i hope this helps

fanke19

03-09-2005, 11:32 AM

I really want one of these buggies. WHat are the highs and lows about it. Please dont "sugarcoat" stuff to make it better.
I really have to agree 100% with BishopRyan...almost word for word. I started out with Tmaxx...dumped a ton of cash into it, broken arms, bulkheads, different fuel tank, etc, etc. I even broke it in half once! :o It still gives me fits from time to time. But the Lightning Pro1 that I bought over a year ago is nothing but a joy. I recently picked up a Pro2 to upgrade for this year, and my Pro1 is being parted out on Ebay right now. You can expect nothing but good results from the entire Lightning product line...in my opinion. My Pro1 will go cheap...have a see for yourself...HERE (http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ50QQsassZfanke19)

BishopRyan

03-09-2005, 11:36 AM

wow someone agrees with me 100% you are the polar opposite of my wife

TC3Racer

03-09-2005, 07:59 PM

I upgraded to an L2P from a GS Storm and the difference was night and day. Handling, durability, steering, and overall performance are much better. The whole buggy is desgined very well and is an excellent buggy for any occasion. I can't say enough good things about it. The only things i have broken where a bent shock shaft (which seems to be pretty popular) and i cracked a steering bellcrank after about 10 tanks of hard track running in about 45-50 degree weather. I dont even want to touch this buggy it is so great out of the box. The only thing i am going to do is pick up some Kyosho MP 7.5 rear CVD's to replace the dogbones.

Fatdaddy

03-09-2005, 08:00 PM

shoudl see th elightning stadium thread.. up to about 5 pages a week now..

more sneek photos..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/cf/VPTrannybraceTruck.jpg
stop teasing me :p

i dont know if thats your LS, but do you know where all the allen head screws came from?

i went to a good hardware store locally and all i could get in allen head screws was machine thread. can i use the machine thread screws in the plastic, or should i stick with the couse(sp?) threaded screws?

Fatdaddy

03-09-2005, 08:04 PM

I really want one of these buggies. WHat are the highs and lows about it. Please dont "sugarcoat" stuff to make it better.
if you plan on racing competively(sp) i would go with the pro kit. its allready got all the hop-ups you will need for serious racing. i made the mistake of buying the RTR kit, and to be honest its pretty crappy for racing durability. i broke all the RTR shock, and the front upper suspension holder. i had to upgrade all of them to the pro parts. for backyard bashing, i would stick with the RTR though. it comes with everything you need, and as long as youre not doing any SUPER amazing stunts with it, it should hold up pretty well.

CRSMP5

03-09-2005, 08:25 PM

fatdaddy.. they are vertigo.. yes machine screws good.. check out http://www.get-screwed.com/ for a screw kit it has all but the 3.5mm screws and the odd ball 2mm screws.. well worth it...

Fatdaddy

03-10-2005, 12:18 AM

fatdaddy.. they are vertigo.. yes machine screws good.. check out http://www.get-screwed.com/ for a screw kit it has all but the 3.5mm screws and the odd ball 2mm screws.. well worth it...
thats cool that i can use the machine screws. i used some machine screws in the bottom mounts on my fuel tank and they striped out. i was a little worried the same thing would happen on the rest of the plastic parts.

Spookypoop

03-10-2005, 05:40 PM

http://www.tony1034.com/products.htm

CRSMP5

03-10-2005, 05:47 PM

his requires drilling out the as is thin aluminum hingpin braces to 4mm, allowing them to break that much easier in a bad crash..

cannot obtain 3.5mm bolts same as glenn's kit

Spookypoop

03-10-2005, 10:07 PM

leave the stockers in there...thats what i did...35 shipped for 374 screws and bolts isnt a bad deal...

Danno

03-12-2005, 02:57 PM

What is anyones opinion on the stock .21 motor , for bashing purposes only , is a brand new one worth $75-100 for a beater motor ?

Tim'sLosi

03-12-2005, 03:34 PM

IMHO there are better engines for the money. I like the OFNA Hyper 8 port. The stock 21BB was hard to start for me when it was hot due to the carb design.

Saboteur

03-12-2005, 10:02 PM

If you run the stock engine too hot, the carb will get hot as well and push the way away from it. A new carb can fix that, but might as well get a better engine. Hyper 8 port is good for the money, but they are even more better engines than that.

Fatdaddy

03-13-2005, 12:47 PM

im thinking about upgradeing to the craddock brakes. what is everybody opinion about them?

CRSMP5

03-13-2005, 06:24 PM

i was never impressed with them...

anyone want to buy a NIB lightning pro1??? send me a PM i have a deal on it going but if it falls thru ill need to off it.. still in sealed box so no photos..

Fatdaddy

03-13-2005, 08:24 PM

i was never impressed with them...

anyone want to buy a NIB lightning pro1??? send me a PM i have a deal on it going but if it falls thru ill need to off it.. still in sealed box so no photos..
did they not live up to the hype?

CRSMP5

03-13-2005, 09:56 PM

i was never impressed with mine.. they fadded after 10min of a 15min race..

Fatdaddy

03-13-2005, 11:46 PM

was the overall brakeing increased though?

CRSMP5

03-14-2005, 10:05 AM

not when they fade...

lookie what ive found....

http://www.hotbodiesforum.com/

tryin

03-14-2005, 01:58 PM

SWEET!

Well I took the buggy out to the track this weekend. First time I have ever ran on a track before. I can't remember the last time I had so much fun. This car just blows my mind, what quality for such a low price, I can't believe more people aren't running these things. I only had one person to run with, a hyper 7 PCR running a novarossi. The track was small and tight so the motor didn't help him much. After ten minutes of track time I could pretty much stay with him the entire time. Maybe it was just his car but the lightning seemed much better as far as stability goes. I rarely ever had any problems as long as I drove half way decent, but at the same speeds I was driving,the hpyer was always rolling over sidways and getting tripped up on little bumps, etc. It seemed like the lightning was just making everything look easier and looked better at doing it. This guy was a better driver, and a vetern at the track so I was just stupified how good the lightning did. I can't wait to go back. I was pretty impressed with the stock .21 bb engine, if it had a little more low end it would be perfect for that track. I am thinking about playing with the gearing a little to help the bottom end out. It has a 13 tooth cluthbell gear, would going to a 14 help the bottom end any?

Spookypoop

03-14-2005, 02:35 PM

14 would take bottom away. a lower tooth will give bottom and take away top end, a higher tooth will give top end but take away bottom

Casey

03-14-2005, 06:19 PM

Will the Kyosho engine mounts work in the Lightning? I know it is posted here somewhere, but I'm not looking through all these pages.

CRSMP5

03-14-2005, 07:19 PM

yea casey they will.. have you seen the HB finned engine mounts?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/newstuff2005/newgoodies006.jpg

they drop the engine 1mm not good for a pull start engine, but they are sweet.. kinda costly though 20$ http://www.rcihobbies.com/ is who i got them from, have to call him though..

tryin

03-15-2005, 08:45 AM

Ok, so this gear that is attached to the clutchbell, is this the spur gear? I am thinking about picking up a 12 and a 14 to experiment with, where would I buy the proper ones at? I guess I would have to reset my gear mesh after installing a new one? Never had to do that yet, sounds like a golden opportunity to screw something up!

CRSMP5

03-15-2005, 09:33 AM

KrisP

03-15-2005, 10:39 AM

You can use a small piece of paper between the clutch bell and spur gear to set proper mesh. When you can turn the gear with slight resistance with the paper in between the two you have the mesh set correctly.

Ok, so this gear that is attached to the clutchbell, is this the spur gear? I am thinking about picking up a 12 and a 14 to experiment with, where would I buy the proper ones at? I guess I would have to reset my gear mesh after installing a new one? Never had to do that yet, sounds like a golden opportunity to screw something up!

tryin

03-15-2005, 04:20 PM

:D i like that...

no the spur ataches to the center differential, the gear you speak of is the clutch bell, it must be a "hardened" clutch bell, i use ofna ones but to fit with the stock flywheel requires a ofna clutch bell shim kit, there are crank shaft extensions in the bag with shims and the crank needs a slight extension as its a tad longer..

So the shim goes between the outside of the clutch bell housing and the gear itself? I guess HB doesn't make this gear? Does the OFNA ones come with the shim kit or is that purchased seperately? I guess I could use the same shim kit for a 12 and 14 tooth cluth bell?
Thanks for all the help guys!

Edit: KrisP, I read that tip somewhere else and was planning on using that method. Thanks!

Jackyl

03-15-2005, 05:10 PM

Hey guys, I tried to read these threads and I got up to page 32 and well :eek: So I'm just going to post it will be faster!

I have a HB Lightning RTR with a Fantom .27 in it, 18t cb. The only mods to the buggy is a better air filter and pro-line road rage tires and pro-line badlands all mounted on onfa black dish rims.

1) I've seen buggy shocks with progressive rate springs (2) springs, Where do you get these springs?

2) Is the torsion style diffs better than say a spyder diff or same thing different name?

3) I wanted to put a spyder in the front and center of my buggy good idead?

4) Are all the parts for the Kyosho mp7.5 compatable with this buggy or just some things?

I just race my buggy in hobby stock class so I can use the .27. for the money I coudln't understand why to limit to a .21 and spend more money than a .27. I've smoked many rb ws7 II's with this fantom!! and my buggy has all it's diffs still intacked :D

Thanks guys.

I love this buggy!

CRSMP5

03-15-2005, 06:08 PM

the ofna cb shim kit is a 5$ on the side kit, works great for all kinds of other things too..

hb makes some cbs, but IMO the ofna ones work/last longer/better

i had the progressive springs, they are gs parts... i hinted of a lookie what i found thinggy up a few posts.. the springs you refer are listed there with part numbers

ive never tried a torson diff.. stock is a spider diff though..

rcguy132

03-15-2005, 06:18 PM

how is this buggy for doing insane jumps?

rcchris

03-15-2005, 06:50 PM

i am looking for a flywheel for a hb lightning rtr and i am having a hard ime finding one. is there a flywheel from another buggy that will work. thanks for the help.

CRSMP5

03-15-2005, 08:07 PM

honestly, a savage one fits real nice, cheap and easy to find, i would upgrade to a 3 shoe clutch no matter what ya do though.. mugen flywheel also fits..

CRSMP5

03-15-2005, 08:08 PM

ive done lots of sick jumps.. only broken thing i get is 5$ wing mounts..

Blacktiger

03-15-2005, 11:44 PM

Yup, I have the mugen one on mine. Fits perfect. Be sure to get one with the smaller diameter like the Mugen or the Optional Hot Bodies. Anything larger will stick out the bottom of the chassis and cause alot of engine stalls everytime you come down off a jump.

Jackyl

03-16-2005, 11:03 AM

that hpionlineforum has some good info!! I found my shock spring infon there.

I'm thinking about painting a body up Kanai III style to show off this season:D mp7.5 and hblb same thing right ? :D minus price and this and that chassis is the same.

Also what are you guys running for .21's I have a hyper but I'm sick of the fact that I have to hack up a rotostart backplate to work on it, if ofna made a backplate for it I'd keep it. But I currently have a fantom .27 in my buggy but I think this season some of the tracks won't let me race with that engine, has to be a .21, so other than a hyper what is the best .21 for under 2bills?

Anyone know anything about the team infinity Samurai that RDlogics sells? It looks just like the fantom .21 engines.

Danno

03-16-2005, 01:20 PM

Danno

03-16-2005, 01:22 PM

pictures later , I`m at work.

Danno

03-16-2005, 10:30 PM

Ugly huh?

CRSMP5

03-16-2005, 10:34 PM

CRSMP5 have you had any experience with an xtm 24.7 ? I took mine apart and found the rod has been scraping on the one wayand the one way slot is starting to egg? took it apart to check piston fit and I cannot push it through the sleeve , good pinch yet but the rod bothers me , any thoughts ?

common in
picco 26, xtm, xtm pro, mach....

i think the issue is they backlash when the flywheel is installed is not set and there si too much and walla 1 way hits rod

upgrdman

03-19-2005, 12:53 AM

Well I have about $200 to spend, and I would love to spend it to make my Lightning 1 RR faster. Should I go for a new engine, a multi-speed transmission, or something else?

My goal is ease of upgradeability...I don't really want to have to dremel anything, or do major rearrangments.

Any ideas would be much appriciated!

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

Edit:
$200 inclues any other needed parts...so if a new engine would need, or greatly benifit from a new flywheel/clutch/etc., that has to be part of the $200. Don't count the sales tax... I have like $220 saved.

Tim'sLosi

03-19-2005, 05:27 AM

Get a new engine and a 3 shoe clutch assy. Search through the last couple of pages for info on both topics. No need for multi-speed.

CRSMP5

03-19-2005, 08:05 AM

i agree.. engine and clutch..

TC3Racer

03-19-2005, 03:09 PM

If your not gonna be racing then your selection on big block engines is much more broad. There are tons of .25,.26, etc. engines to consider that will give you great power at a reasonable price. If you are racing and your track enforces the .21 rule - you may want to wait until you have a bit more money. The Sportwerks .21 engine is in your range though and is one heck of an engine for the money. It runs very well and produces excellent power and reliability.

TC3Racer

03-19-2005, 03:11 PM

For those of you racers....

What have you done with your L2 Pro's for improvements? I know about using Kyosho 7.5 driveshafts to replace the rear dogbones but not sure if the MP777's will fit? Any other tips that have been successful?

CRSMP5

03-19-2005, 09:39 PM

honestly, the pro versions CVDs are under 40$, but shoot miy pro2 is box stock... never seen a need to improve it except i put pro1 c hubs on it to get rid of some of the castor..

milo33

03-21-2005, 10:40 AM

I have a HB Lightning Pro and I broke a front hub carrier and they are on back order until May at my LHS via Horizon. Does anyone know if a Kyosho hub a carrier will fit?

CRSMP5

03-21-2005, 10:50 AM

which pro version? a pro1 is direct kyosho, the 22* are not so easy to find..

milo33

03-21-2005, 10:52 AM

It is a pro1, it is not a pro 2. Which Kyosho 7.5 or 777?

Jackyl

03-21-2005, 01:47 PM

I beleive the Kyosho Inferno mp7.5 parts will work on the hot bodies lighting & lighting pro buggies. The lightning 2 is a different buggy I think that kyosho also offers a buggy like this if not ofna does and those parts will also work.

In my opinion your better of just buying the kyosho stuff, espescially get this sticker pack if you get a new body, it adds to the effect of having a kyosho buggy :D

http://www.gpmd.com/image/k/kyoc3263.jpg

Kyosho MP7.5 stickers (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVC96&P=ML)

upgrdman

03-22-2005, 08:41 PM

So can anyone specifically reccomend a good .25 or .26 (or whatever...i want speed tho) and 3-shoe clutch that togeather will cost about $200? Something that will easily be upgraded to...no dremeling, etc. Pull-start prefer'd, so I won't have to buy a start box or hand-held thing.

It would help if you could link to it on towerhobbies or some other good online place, as this will actually end up being a birthday gift for myself. My step-father won't know what to do at a hobby shop, so I want to email a link or two so he can have it shipped to me.

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

Saboteur

03-22-2005, 09:14 PM

A picco .26 is going into mine with maybe a THS pipe system.

Jackyl

03-22-2005, 09:47 PM

200bucks with clutch? Errr, Well I would say either the peak diablo .28 or the wasp .28 and then just a 3shoe clutch assembly from say integy or something like that? The engine and the clutch would be darn close to 200bucks.

tower would have both engines, I doubt the clutch though. But any lhs should have the clutch assembly.

Or you could just get a hpi savage 3 shoe flywheel and then the shoes and springs for like 12bucks.

CRSMP5

03-22-2005, 11:27 PM

sh28, savage 3 shoe flywheel, mugen clutch shoes, .9 springs and you will have to change the backplate and pull start, but thats the same conversion the mach 26 requires, no 1 way needed though.. a xtm or gs storm backplate and pull start (same one for picco26/mach small block)

dyslexic

03-22-2005, 11:35 PM

me I'd go for a picco .26 with a 3 shoe flywheel with 1.0 springs and aluminum shoes (ofna blue) should total in at just under 200$ us

TC3Racer

03-24-2005, 02:29 PM

CRSMP5 pretty much suggested exactly what i was about to say :D .

I would go with 1.0mm clutch springs and white Mugen shoes will give you the best performance for a clutch. A couple engine's to look at would be:

1. Team Orion Wasp .28 $164.99 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGU1&P=R

2. Peak Diablo .28 $169.99 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGU5&P=R

3. Sportwerks .26 $129.95 http://nitrohouse.com/engines_pipes.htm

4. OFNA/Picco .26 $199.99 http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=OFN51214

Do you need the WHOLE clutch assembly? Or just the shoes and springs? You can put something together for 200 bucks but it'll depend on what you need. Any of these engines are big on power and you wont be dissapointed with any of them. Good luck.

upgrdman

03-24-2005, 04:55 PM

Thank you all so much for the tips. I ended up asking for something else for my b-day present, so I will be spending my own money for my new engine. That will mean a bigger budget :) 300-400. I would like to basiclly replace everything connected to the engine... the exaust stuff, etc. I want to do that so I can just take out my old engine, leave it's pipe attached, and put some after-run oil in it, and keep it wrapped up in the closet for future use, perhaps as a backup, or for another car/buggie.

Does that sound reasonable?

So since my budget will be bigger, should I just stick with the engines listed (I'm leaning towards the diablo .28) or are there better ones to look into? I would like to stay with the pull-start system, so I won't have to get a bunch of other stuff for a eletrical start system.

Am I correct in assuming that horsepower is what I should be looking at to see how much power it has? E.g. more hp == better/faster (can be geared accordingly, etc.) ??

Thanks!
--Farrell F.

CRSMP5

03-24-2005, 08:29 PM

no, no HP number is true.. do not follow those.. id say go by reccomendation of trusted sources, or what you have seen run..

thats what i do exhaust and all, keep old as back up..

upgrdman

03-24-2005, 11:36 PM

thanks, crsmp5. so would you reccomend the diablo, or do you think another one is surperior? Or, since I know have about a $400 budget, would a even better engine be worth it, or will the difference be minimal?

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

charlesd

03-25-2005, 12:04 AM

Some tracks don't let you race over a .21. Since your budget just grew,
Rb Concepts ws7 II . If it's too pricy, rb concepts econo 3 port.

It doesn't get much better than that. At most tracks at any major event, 70% of racers have an rb in their buggy. I think that in itself says alot.

CRSMP5

03-25-2005, 06:28 AM

i agree ws7II but requires starterbox also the s7II is good too and a little less..

CRSMP5

03-25-2005, 06:29 AM

also for what they cost, you can expect a 10-20 gal life as long as you keep dirt out..

Saboteur

03-25-2005, 11:28 AM

Picco .26 and THS pipe is going on my HB RTR1 soon. :) Gonna get the kyosho shocks towers too.

CRSMP5

03-25-2005, 12:06 PM

browns has the pro towers on the wall.. direct fit, kyosho is not..

Saboteur

03-25-2005, 10:32 PM

kyosho not a direct fit? How come I've seen other people with kyosho shock towers claimed to fit :confused:?

CRSMP5

03-26-2005, 12:49 PM

its a few pages back.. the holes are in the wrong place.. mounts different to the diff case

CRSMP5

03-26-2005, 12:52 PM

but cannot find the photo.. hmmm was it this forum?? all i know is they mounted differently

upgrdman

03-26-2005, 10:15 PM

OK, I guess maybe I'll get the Rb Concepts s7 II then. I looked online, but could not find a price... anyone know it?

And how much of a difference will I notice between it and the stock Lightening RR engine? Like, how much more speed?

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

charlesd

03-27-2005, 12:27 AM

www.acehardwarehobbies.com , they have pretty much all the rb models.
As for speed wise ----- lets put it this way : ford fiesta v.s a porsche. :D

Saboteur

03-27-2005, 01:05 AM

Anyone runnin the OS .21RZ G? I heard its more powerful on top end than the RB S5. Quite old, but it runs near a P5 supposedly. Cool beans. I'm still interested in the picco .26 or .27. Maybe snag the pro 2 kit too.

upgrdman

03-27-2005, 02:32 AM

One thing I noticed when looking at all the pictures of various engines, including the RB one, was the carb looked like it was in the wrong direction (for my buggie) ... like 180 degree's rotated... is that ok? can it easily be turned around? would I need to buy any special tools, or replacement gaskets (etc.) ?

CRSMP5

03-27-2005, 04:05 PM

yes carbs can be turned..

upgrdman

03-28-2005, 03:43 AM

I recently had the displeause of tryign to start my buggie at night, and although I just had to yank on the pull-start about 15-20 times before it would actually start and not stall before evening letting go of the pull cord, I am now thinking about the RB WS7 II.

EDIT: I richen'd the HSN in anticaption, since it was nighttime...and after I got the engine started, I confirmed that the tuneing was never the problem. End of edit.

So this lead me to think about perhaps getting the RB WS7 II, since using a electronic starting device would have made it much easier on me. What kind of starter would I need? Something handheld like the rotostart, or a starterbox? In either case, about how much would one cost? If it could use either, which is better, and why? I would prefer something handheld since it would probably be smaller, but is a starter box significantly better?

I also have a question about my springs/shocks. When I use my little ramp to do some jumps (about 3-5 feet of air) it bottoms out on the landing almost always. I was thinking of getting stiffer springs. Would changing only the springs be OK, and what would I lose from not also changing the shock fluid weights? More bouncing? More fliping over during sharp turns? (presently it *never* flips over because of a turn, no matter how abrupt)

If changing the shock oil out for a different weight is really important...is it hard, and how much would a set of oil's cost?

Thanks, and sorry for all the questions... in fairly new :)
--Farrell F.

upgrdman

03-28-2005, 03:44 AM

Continued on from the above post, since this web site limits the length of posts...

About my other post yesterday, cmsmp5 said carb's can be turned. But I still don't know if this would need a new gasket or anything like that. Since I'm new to this, is it likely that I would tear or damage something (like the origional gasket)?

Lastly, I noticed that my left-rear spring looked a little bowed... like "/" but with a slight curve. I think it is becuase of the little spring holder on the bottom...when I push it a little more flatly, the spring goes back to a normal, un-curved "/" ... but if I push down on the wing, and let it rise back up, the minor curving comes back. Why? Is that little bottom spring holder bent or something?

Thanks again,
--Farrell F.

CRSMP5

03-28-2005, 10:10 AM

on a new engine ive never replaced the gaskets.. tools depend ont he engine as the carb retaining bolt is different between brands..

how many spring spacers you have on it? if you have alot of them there is not a way to hold the spring from bowing..

stiffer springs will make it bounce more.. so will thicker oil.. all i can say is play with it till you find something you like.. i like mine a little on the soft side..

upgrdman

03-28-2005, 04:39 PM

So would thinker oil, and the same, or softer springs help reduce the bottoming out on jumps? I know it will never be perfect... or else it would bounce like a ball... but what should I aim for?

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

CRSMP5

03-28-2005, 10:50 PM

oil cheap, springs not.. i think id thicken it up a little, try 50wt and see if it gets better..

upgrdman

03-30-2005, 03:04 AM

Well I went to the LHS and ended up buying a Novarossi/TOP Engines PT-21 P7T/N. I have not gotten it started yet because of problem with the glow plug, which may just be because of a weak C-cell in my glow heater. It's a turbo plug in this new engine...do those need more power than a C-cell can provide? In any case, I will go down to the LHS tomorrow and see if they can check my plug and maybe I'll buy a nice rechargeable glow heater, and just keep the cheap one that came with the Lightning RR in my spare parts box.

What do you guys think of the engine? Did they sell me a crappy one, or was it worth the $290?

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

TC3Racer

03-30-2005, 10:16 AM

I'm really not too familiar with that engine but it is a pretty big race engine. Novarossi/TOP are known for being great performance engines. It may be a little finicky during the break in process but just be patient and wait it out. Hopefully someone with a bit more experience with that engine will be able to help you. Are you planning on racing?

As far as shocks go, i would reccomend the Pro 2 springs with 50 wt. oil all around. This should give you an overall stiffer ride and better for jumping. Good luck.

upgrdman

03-30-2005, 05:39 PM

I'm not planning to race soon, but in the future when I am more expierenced I would love to race for fun. I basicly told the guy my budget was $400-$500, and that I want to buy a new engine, tuned pipe, clutch, flywheel, and starterbox for that amount. He asked me if I was more concerned about low-end or high-end performance, and I told him both, but mainly top-speed. He show'd me the Hyper 8-port, the TOP that I got, and a few others, and I ended up getting the TOP one.

One thing I don't understand though is that I don't see the engine listed on Nova's website. I see the TOP PT-21's...but none with that "P7T/N" ... I see some P5's though. So I don't know whats up... is my engine just a very new model, or am I not understanding what the P7T/N means... all I know is that my engine is a .21, uses a turbo glow plug, and those "PT-21 P7T/N" numbers on the box. Anyone know what I need to look for on their website?

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

gr8taz nitro

03-30-2005, 08:51 PM

... is my engine just a very new model, or am I not understanding what the P7T/N means... all I know is that my engine is a .21, uses a turbo glow plug, and those "PT-21 P7T/N" numbers on the box. Anyone know what I need to look for on their website?

.
The motor that you have is been out for a little while. It's got the same specs on it that the crono rs7 has, from what I was told by Rick Brake at RB mods it's the same piston a sleeve setup that the jp fx21 has in it. It's a pretty hot motor, and you will really want to take your time with it breaking it in. Nitrohouse sells the Novarossi version of that motor for $350

upgrdman

03-31-2005, 12:34 AM

"It's a pretty hot motor, and you will really want to take your time with it breaking it in."

Could you please elaborate? By "hot" do you mean nice, or do you mean hot-running? As in temperature...

And my plan to break it in was this:
1st tank: set throttle to _bearly_ turn wheels.
2nd tank: set throttle to approx. 1/4
3rd tank: set throttle to approx 1/2
4th tank: do large figure eights, with _short_ blips of the throttle to 3/4's
5th tank: pretty much done... take it out, and gently accelorate to full throttle for short periods of time, basicly parking lot driving.

Does that seem good? bad? any tips or warnings?

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

Saboteur

03-31-2005, 04:15 PM

Well surely trying to strap the picco .26 in the MGt had a catch. They damn well used red loctite or something on many of the screws. They won't come out and now $15 went to waste of the FOC kit that now I cannot use. What a PITA!. I'll install this into the HB buggy and let you guys know how she runs. Will post info soon.

upgrdman

03-31-2005, 06:22 PM

Well this morning I started to break-in my new TOP motor. Did two tanks with throttle manually set to just bearly move the wheels (like 1 wheel revolution per second) and then for the 3rd and 4th tanks I put it on the street, and gently accelorated to about 1/3 then 1/2... it stalls often at about 1/2, so I think I will tune it after another tank or two.

Any tips, and am I pushing it to hard right now? How many tanks should I go through before trying to go full acceloration and tuneing it accordingly (so it won't stall).

Right now I see a nice good trail of smoke, from about 1/8 all the way to 1/2 throttle (then it stalls) ... seems about right, no?

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

By the way, right now, when I put it on the street, and run it for about 10 minutes, with modest periods of acceloration, the temp is about 210-220. The little booklet that came with the engine is just pictures and specs of their other engines... anyone know the optimal running temperature for my engine is? I also tried looking online for documention of similar engines, like the crono, but couldn't find any.

fezzy

03-31-2005, 06:38 PM

Greetings, Has anyone got a close up pic of the wing mount on the L2? From above ideally without the wing. I have one of the mounts for my Revo and I've assembled it how I thought it was correct, But I cannot find any pics or expoded views to confirm it. I have from left to right, Wing support, Then a 'Spacer', Then a main wing support, The brace between, Then another main wing support,Another 'Spacer' and then another wing support.

Cheers.

CRSMP5

03-31-2005, 11:11 PM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lightning_instructions/LS/mount.jpg

Saboteur

03-31-2005, 11:27 PM

Ok, the 15T CB is now now and it's awesome. I'm also used the whole MGT setup with 3 shoes and vented flywheel. All is working now, so gonna break it in tomorrow. :)

CRSMP5

04-01-2005, 06:34 AM

also, since i forgot.. the photo is of the stadium wing mount, the buggies do not have the spacers cause D is narrowed so the mounts fit between the shocks on it.. so you have a stadium wing mount, not the buggy one, so if you ever goto replace it you can get the correct one...

Fatdaddy

04-01-2005, 01:41 PM

so what ever happened with those carbon fiber parts?

Saboteur

04-01-2005, 06:16 PM

Yeah, now that my buggy is ready I'm interested in those CF parts too. For now I got more parts for the HB on the way. Right now gonna go break it in.

Jackyl

04-01-2005, 07:32 PM

Can someone post a list of parts from the kyosho mp7.5 or whatever and part #'s that will work on the lightning RR buggy? I've been searching high and low for parts lists like this and can't find anything. I have found alot of trick kyosho parts that I would like to use "driveshafts that are u-joint style, shock towers"

Thanks.

Saboteur

04-01-2005, 07:54 PM

Go to Tower Hobbies. They have most of the parts for this car.

CRSMP5

04-01-2005, 08:34 PM

kyosho shock towers do not fit.. not directly at least.. they mount differently to teh diff case..

http://www.hotbodiesforum.com/

in the lightning stadium thread we have alot of other parts that fit thing going on.. most of these parts will fit except things like the CVDs.. but stock pro cvds are cheap and last

upgrdman

04-02-2005, 12:45 AM

No one responded to my earlier question about breaking in my new TOP engine...

I ran it idleing for the first 2 tanks, then for the 3rd and 4th I did easy little driving, no more than 1/3 or at most 1/2 acceloration. A little driving on my front lawn to see how good the torqe was...

After another a tank or two of that again, I plan to consider it broken in... ready to tune up and floor the thrigger...

Am I pushing it too fast right now... or what?

Thanks,
--Farrell F.

Saboteur

04-02-2005, 01:53 AM

I wouldn't start flooring the gas just yet. Still take it easy and don't over rev the engine. Do low to mid speed runs. After you reach 11 tanks or so then you can go a lil bit faster.

CRSMP5

04-02-2005, 08:13 AM

i do not have that engine, but a simple test i do to tell if its ready for tune in and some easy bashing, once you shut the engine off remove the glow plug and feel for pinch, if no pinch then its ready, engine must be warm as when it cools the pinch will come back..

Danno

04-02-2005, 08:30 AM

CRSMP5 here is a pic of that Mach one way I was PMing You about .

Danno

04-02-2005, 08:36 AM

If I`m going from 20 to 30% in my picco .26 , I`m going to have to tune richer to start out with , correct ? And do you think another "break in " period is necessary ? Heat cycle 2-3 tanks ?

CRSMP5

04-02-2005, 10:46 PM

ive NEVER in my life seen a 1 way look like that.. sad part is for all teh metal that was lost in that wear, engine has to be wiped out.. i think id call horizon on it to see what they say

Saboteur

04-02-2005, 10:49 PM

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1729160#post1729160

MY HB back in action. New parts will be coming in. :)

Jackyl

04-03-2005, 01:14 AM

What are the absolute best buggy shocks that are made? And how much are they and where can I buy them?

Jackyl

04-04-2005, 04:09 AM

Here is my bug, I have to cut the fuel opening and the top air scoop open yet then this body will be done.
http://beatyourtruck.com/Gallery/albums/otherbuggys/abd.jpg

BIG PICTURE! (http://www.wisconsinnitro.com/e107_plugins/kig_menu/index.php?view=image&imageId=429)

milo33

04-04-2005, 09:32 AM

I have a hbs lightning pro and I broke a front hub carrier. They are back ordered until May on every online store I have found. I have heard that some Kyosho parts are interchangeable, does anybody know which kyosho buggy would have the same hub carriers?

tryin

04-04-2005, 11:27 AM

Jackyl

04-04-2005, 02:03 PM

Milo33, here you go man, Front Hub Carriers (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVD27&P=X) These are the same. Most of the parts from the kyosho mp 7.5 are direct fit parts for the hot bodies lightning buggies. But not the lightning 2. so the RR and Pro you can use some mp 7.5 parts from. :cool:

CRSMP5

04-04-2005, 09:30 PM

http://www.hotbodiesforum.com/

i even know how to mod v1 stuff to fit v2.. the stadium thread there has a list of alternative parts though..

tryin

04-05-2005, 08:26 AM

Whats up guys? Just wanted to let you know I finally changed my diff fluid last week. I put 5/7/1 in and I haven't had it to a track but I feel that it has made a difference bashing around outside. I swear I think my car has more pep as well. I don't know what fluid HB uses but I think it was a good bit thicker than what is needed. By the way, my Pro 1 had grease in the rear diff.

Later

turd-furgison

04-07-2005, 03:13 AM

hey, i have a stock lightning rtr...i was wonder what engine you guys would recomend as a good replacement. im not goin to be racing it or anything..but i do drive at my local tracks and they are tight,small tracks .. i was wondering about the hyper 8 port with pullstart,,the xtm 247 or maybe the os rg-x engines...i would like to have a pull start engine... i want to have good low end and also decent top end power sense i also just drive it around my house...any of your thoughts would be great ....thanks

tryin

04-07-2005, 10:27 AM

Personally I would get the OS RG. It would be good for a small track on a budget. (I have never owned one, but have seen them run). It is probably what I will end up with next, that or the xtm .21 pro.

turd-furgison

04-07-2005, 06:43 PM

tryin- thanks for the input

does anyone know if the os rg-x pullstart engine is a dirrect drop in the lightning rr buggy.or well there be any mods that well need to be done to make it work?...thanks

CRSMP5

04-07-2005, 11:56 PM

you will need to shim the engine up.. its got a big pull start..

Saboteur

04-07-2005, 11:59 PM

Anyone running CVDs on their ride? I have the Picco .26 on my ride and it shakes very hard. I'm using the 15T CB and it feels as if this car is gonna vibrate outta my hand LOL! Insane power! The tires balloon instantly with that gearing. I can't imagine the 13T CB. Probably way more acceleration and the tires would rip off for sure.

Tim'sLosi

04-08-2005, 06:06 AM

I have the Picco .26 on my ride and it shakes very hard. I'm using the 15T CB and it feels as if this car is gonna vibrate outta my hand.

No matter how much power you have there should not be vibration like that. Vibration will tear up bearings and loosen screws. Is it doing this at idle or under power? At idle I would suspect a flywheel problem; under power it could be a lot of things...clutch, bent shaft(s), bent axle, bad bearing, etc. Don't let it go though.

Saboteur

04-08-2005, 07:29 AM

Oh no, thats when I rev the car in my hand mainly facing downward a little it vibrates when I rev the engine. Sry about that. The car is fine actually, but I guess this motor is really strong. When I had my RB S5, it provided me with some strong bottom end, but this motor seems to have quite a bit more as well as top end.

Tim'sLosi

04-08-2005, 10:01 PM

Oic!

jpsoph82

04-08-2005, 10:20 PM

Guys, I have a question that I have been pondering for a while. O.S. has a .40 size 4-stroke "1/8th scale engine". Do you think a lightning would do well with a 4 stroke and what clutchbell size should I use (as far as teeth go)?
Here is a picture of it:

Saboteur

04-08-2005, 10:53 PM

Well the 13T is a no go. Lights up them tires way quicker than the 15T. It's so bad it skids onroad from a tap of the trigger! Serious power!

Tim'sLosi

04-08-2005, 11:44 PM

turd-furgison

04-10-2005, 01:36 AM

does anyone know if the xtm 247 engine is a dirrect drop in on a rr buggy..and well it be any better than the stock .21bb that comes with the car? thanks

Saboteur

04-10-2005, 01:44 AM

I'm using the Picco .26. MONSTEROUS power.I recall a friend trying that in his buggy and he say's it fit in fine. Just with these engine making so much HP, I'd definately wanna try a 15T CB. I'm going back to that one on my ride. 13T CB will leave my front tires bald on just one run.

CRSMP5

04-11-2005, 09:11 AM

the xtm fits with no issue..

Danno

04-11-2005, 01:16 PM

Saboteur

04-11-2005, 03:03 PM

I figured that would be the problem. I'm checking everything over. ANyone know the stock diff setup for the RTR1? Whats a good setup to run with the .26? Does 5k/7k/1k sound good?

Saboteur

04-11-2005, 03:04 PM

Maybe I'll try 5-7-3

Danno

04-12-2005, 12:37 PM

Hey , just picked up an o.s. rg , trying to break it in the right way , have about 5 tanks through it on a stand with the wheels barely spinning . Problem is it doesn`t want to come up to temp. , only getting 120 deg. . In this situation which needle would I lean out to bring the temp up to properly heat cycle the motor ? The HSN or the LSN ? seeing as how it`s only running slightly above idle ? Buy the way my LHS has these for $109.00 ! couldn`t pass it up . A guy won the local point champ last year with this motor , why are they so cheap ?

Saboteur

04-12-2005, 01:14 PM

Well you don't lean out the motor when you heat cycle. Just run it at a faster speed, but keeping it rich. Not super blubbery rich. You will need to get it upto temps. Run it on the ground for break in. I wouldn't leave it in the air. What plug are you using? Whats the temp outside? Adjust the needle in which the manual say's to adjust. Hopefully you will be able to get it upto 190 when you find out the prob. The RG is quite and old motor and it's been around for a while. Way back I remember it was $150. With so many new .21s on the market the value has gone down. It makes nice bottom end, but lacks on top.

Fatdaddy

04-12-2005, 10:41 PM

i came home from practice last week only to find that i striped out the lower screw mount on my right steering nuckle. stupid weak ass casted part.

time to spend $60 on machined alluminum ones :(

CRSMP5

04-13-2005, 09:17 AM

fatdaddy... dynimite makes a 7075 one for a gs storm.. 24$ a set.. direct fit in..

BCat125

04-13-2005, 08:19 PM

Well i am only one show from making it through a whole season with my LP2 and i have only broken a wing so far. I am not talking about a racing season by the way. I have been taking it off of motocross ramps and over 1:1 scale cars and it just doenst want to break. This is the toughest buggy i have ever seen.