Team Losi LST Monster Truck

[xdamxincx]

Well I am going to sell this truck.
Its got a brand new never started Mach in it aluminum diff cases all cleaned ready for break in.
Will come with the stock servo's rtr and a reciever battery.
No radio or reviever though.
350 or best offer
y u gettin rid of it ? lsp bug ? lol

[jmangler1]

That sucks that you selling it! Is it cause you had bad luck with it? Mine is great! As far as LSP you can't compare the 2. MT vs truggy you know who will win most of the time. A person with sitty driven skills can win with the LSP! Driveing the LST will be more of a challenge and more fun imop! Seeing the LSP on the track is something to look at! Its size and the way it handle is awsome! Plus their is a hugh after market for this truck so you can hop it up like crazy. By summer time their will be even more hop-ups! I got mine from a little over 13lbs down to 10lbs. My buddy's race revo with a sirio23 in it is at 9 and some change. So they are faifly close. You should of seen the look on his face when I was ripping it up with the LST! He just couldn't beleave it! I don't think he even want's the revo anymore!

[badboy2]

:eek: monsterbrad where were u 2 weeks ago?i could have bought urs anyway post pics cuz a friend of mine might buy it..
a friend of mine might be interested so pm me when u really decide to sell it

[Monsterbrad]

nevermind
I am keeping the truck

[Monsterbrad]

This truck!
I have to say its fast but it broke again after I broke the engine in.
I don't know what to do.
If somebody knows anybody who might want this truck throw me an offer!

[jmangler1]

This truck!
I have to say its fast but it broke again after I broke the engine in.
I don't know what to do.
If somebody knows anybody who might want this truck throw me an offer!


What the heck did you break this time!

[jmangler1]

Oh yeah what are you asking for it?

[Monsterbrad]

$350.00
I broke a stinkin drive shaft and a front a-arm but that was driver error.
It just did not hit that hard to smash the heck outa a a-arm like that.
If it weren't so freakin fast this truck would have been history a while ago but it is kinda stupid fast compared to my MGT.

[LostinHere]

The brakes definetely are tight. When I really hit them, the truck flips. They also make some sort of clicking noise when the are engaged. Almost like gears striping. Anyone experience that?

Losi replaced my receiver with a RS310 b/c of vibration effects. I talked with LHS today and they said Losi is pulling the LST from the market until they can repackage with RS310. Anyone heard this also?

[Headsup]

I just got my LST about a week ago. After idleing a couple tanks through it, I put it on the ground for a little running. I noticed a lot of receiver glitching too. I thought there might be a short in the connection. I may have the same problem though. I'll give it another shot and if it is still glitchy, I'll call Horizon and see what they'll do for me.

[Flying Finn]

Does anyone know if Losi is gonna come up with a LST Pro? I've been planning to buy a monster truck later this year,and i would absolutely love to have a LST Pro!

[WorldOfNoise]

The brakes definetely are tight. When I really hit them, the truck flips. They also make some sort of clicking noise when the are engaged. Almost like gears striping. Anyone experience that?
Check your front Diff case. If you are tossing the truck on it's lid there is a chance that your diff case has cracked but you can't see it! You will destroy your ring and pinion if it is. The cracks are VERY hard to see.

[LostinHere]

Check your front Diff case. If you are tossing the truck on it's lid there is a chance that your diff case has cracked but you can't see it! You will destroy your ring and pinion if it is. The cracks are VERY hard to see.

That is what it does...flips it right on the top. What do you mean by ring and pinion? Where is that located? I am new to these things so any help would be appreciated.

[rcguy132]

If I get an LST, should I get alum. diff cases, or aluminum a-arms first

[jmangler1]

If I get an LST, should I get alum. diff cases, or aluminum a-arms first

Definately get the diff cases first.

[snakedude23]

Ok, I'm gonna get a new LST. I have a $1200 budget, and I plan on racing this at club races, and generally bashing around. My club isn't HARDCORE, so I don't need aluminum everything, but if you all had $600 to hop-up an LST, what would you get?

[Colt M4]

Hey Snakedude23 check out the the article about changing the LST into more of a racer. It is in the May 2005 issue of Rc Car action.

[tmaxxster4375]

Alum diff cases
Titanium turnbuckles
Ofna 1400 flat pack
High Capasity gas tank
Losi king pins or some race tire
new body
sway bars
losi hi perf. brake pads
fill diffs with 30k or 50k
some spare parts
Really thats all you need. Threaded shocks are nice but not needed.

[Monsterbrad]

if you are planning on racing pick up some extra arms and hubs.
I would say also get some lower aluminum arms to compete with the broken arm thing that this truck suffers from.
Also any of you guys mount up some Zombie tires and have problems with the foams that come with them??????????????

[doesgo]

What do you mean "problems" with the foams?

[Monsterbrad]

nothing
The foams had a kink in them and it was making the tires wobble.
I got it figured out.
Wet the foams down and let them dry almost all the way then stuff them in the tires and cut the inside edge around the foam a little.
Helps the tires seat on the rim.
They do fight a little into the bead but I loaded up the Speed Zone glue which is awesome!
I think they will be ok :)

[Monsterbrad]

ya know i was just sitting there gluin my new tires on lookin at the busted up LST.
It hit me
It's too fast
I need driving lessons :D

[WorldOfNoise]

That is what it does...flips it right on the top. What do you mean by ring and pinion? Where is that located? I am new to these things so any help would be appreciated.
The ring and pinion is inside your diff. If your case is cracked and you hit the brakes the gears inside will grind. I didn't even know my diff case was busted untill I disassembled it and it was in four pieces!
If you want to have more of a progressive feel on the brakes you can try the "Losi high performance brake pad set" I have it on my truck along with a CF disk. It took a bit of adjustment but it works very well now.

http://photos4.flickr.com/6443858_2c2f6aab05_t.jpg (http://photos4.flickr.com/6443858_2c2f6aab05_o.jpg)
Click 4 large view.

I've also found that because of the huge size of the tires; the heavier silicone oil the better. I run 120,000wt F&R, and my friend runs 50,000wt Fr and 120,000wt Rr. My LST turns better, is more predictable in a slide and hooks up better than his.

[Monsterbrad]

WON
can yo post where you got that brake set up again!
I am also running 120,000 wt in the front and 50,000 in the rear.
Ur buddys truck does not turn cause you want the thicker oil up front and the thinner in the rear.
Unless you need that Posi effect for rock crawling or climbing!
Brake parts though ?????????????????

[LostinHere]

The ring and pinion is inside your diff. If your case is cracked and you hit the brakes the gears inside will grind. I didn't even know my diff case was busted untill I disassembled it and it was in four pieces!
If you want to have more of a progressive feel on the brakes you can try the "Losi high performance brake pad set" I have it on my truck along with a CF disk. It took a bit of adjustment but it works very well now.

http://photos4.flickr.com/6443858_2c2f6aab05_t.jpg (http://photos4.flickr.com/6443858_2c2f6aab05_o.jpg)
Click 4 large view.

I've also found that because of the huge size of the tires; the heavier silicone oil the better. I run 120,000wt F&R, and my friend runs 50,000wt Fr and 120,000wt Rr. My LST turns better, is more predictable in a slide and hooks up better than his.

Do recommend getting aluminum diff cases if I have to replace? Also, what did you fill your diffs with when you did replace the case?

I assume your are talking about F&R shocks for the 120k oil? Sorry if I sound out of the loop but like I said, I am new to this.

Thanks again for the advice.

[badboy2]

Ok, I'm gonna get a new LST. I have a $1200 budget, and I plan on racing this at club races, and generally bashing around. My club isn't HARDCORE, so I don't need aluminum everything, but if you all had $600 to hop-up an LST, what would you get?


for 600 and racing hop ups ill get the hotbodies lightning stadium pro ;)

[metalry101]

Do recommend getting aluminum diff cases if I have to replace? Also, what did you fill your diffs with when you did replace the case?

I assume your are talking about F&R shocks for the 120k oil? Sorry if I sound out of the loop but like I said, I am new to this.

Thanks again for the advice.

Yes, get the aluminum diff cases. They're only 10 bux each, so you're looking at 20 bones for the whole truck. Not only are they shinier, they're stronger.

As for aluminum a-arms...umm...NO. Aluminum a-arms are a TERRIBLE idea. Yes the stockers are somewhat weak, but that's a good thing in some ways. Ever replaced an a-arm? It's about the easiest thing to fix on the truck. Really...it couldn't be much easier. On the other hand, that bulkhead taht it screws into, and the hingepin that it pivots on could be a little bit more of a PITA, especially if the pin is bent, which is exactly what would happen if you ran aluminum arms. Trust me, aluminum a-arms are a terrible investment. It just moves the breakage point to a more expensive part that is a lot harder and more time consuming to replace.

About the fluids...no, not 120K in the shocks, they simply wouldn't move. Literally, it'd be like pushing the piston through your hand. BTW, I'm not exagerating. 120K is for the diffs. That's uber-thick oil that would basically give you a diff action like a very very tight limited slip. It helps the truck break traction so that it rotates better in the corners, and it climbs hills better because it won't unload all of the power to the wheel with the least traction (aka, the path of least resistance). Seeing as you're a noob I'll try to do a simple explanantion of how the craziness that is a diff works.

A diff is a differential. It's called a differential because it allows a differentiation in wheel speed between the two wheels on either side. This is necessary for many purposes, the most important being turning. To understand this, draw two circles, a big one and a little one inside of the big one. Now imagine your truck going around those two cirlces, the inside tire is on the small circle and the outside tire is on the outside circle. Obviously the tire on the larger circle has the travel a longer path than the inside tire to travel the same distance degree-wise. The differential allows it to do that.

The diff also does good things like prevent drivetrain breakage, because the nature of the diff is to send power to the wheel that provides the least resistance. Automotive diffs work the same way, which is why when you see a car stuck in the snow or ice it is often only spinning one wheel, even though it is 2WD under normal circumstances. The reason this is a good thing is that it lets power escape as wheelspin instead of being forced upon the drivetrain components as a massive shockload. The downside of it is that if you're climbing a hill or going mudbogging or something and one tire finds a very loose section with basically no traction, or is even lifted off the ground, all of the power is sent to that tire. Putting a very very thick oil in the differential slows that action down considerably (or almost entirely if you put something as massively thick as 120K weight oil in). The fluid is very thick and gooey, which means that it is much harder for the diff to unload all of the available power to one wheel, meaning your truck mud bogs and climbs better.

This lack of differential action also helps to rotate the truck in corners because instead of the rear end following the front, it will break traction (due to both tires trying to travel the same distance, even though it is physically impossible due to the differentiating radii of their respective curves). This basically means that the rear end of the truck will slide a bit around the curve instead of turning. Some people desire that sort of handling trait in a truck, as it makes the truck more stable in that it is more likely to spin and slide rather than dig in and traction roll. The truck is a bit twitchier with that sort of setup, so it does take a bit of getting used to, but it really is a sweet setup. Since my engine is down for the count right now, I'm thinking about ripping my diffs apart and putting some 100K in the rear and maybe some 10K or 30K in the front.

Hope all of this helps and makes sense. LMK if it's a bit unclear about anything or if you have any other questions. I'd be glad to help, as would the other guys in this thread I'm sure.

[tmse25]

its not durable at all even that slow ass revo can beat it

[metalry101]

Ok, I'm gonna get a new LST. I have a $1200 budget, and I plan on racing this at club races, and generally bashing around. My club isn't HARDCORE, so I don't need aluminum everything, but if you all had $600 to hop-up an LST, what would you get?

Good choice. Don't get the Hot Bodies LSP. Stay with a proper monster truck!

As for hop-ups...I'd say save at least a few hundred for spares and possibly a new engine. The stock engine makes awesome power, but mine has crapped out on me, and I've only got about a gallon through it. Thankfully it's only like 50 bones for a new piston and sleeve...but it's still 50 bux I sure as hell wasn't planning on spending.

As for hop-ups...

Proper tires for your track (3)
Crowd Pleazer 2.0 (7)
High performance brake pads (4)
Stiffer springs (5)
Aluminum diff cases (2)
Ofna 1400 mah Rx pack (1)
HPI Motorsavers Air Filter (6)

The reciever pack isn't optional, period. Usually durability mods like diff cases aren't as important for racing as performance mods like grippy tires, but in the case of the LST, it doesn't matter if you're running slicks on a muddy track, because you won't finish if you toast a diff case. They really are horribly weak, and IMO, they should ship from the factory with them on. At least they're dirt cheap. Anyways, if you wanna finish a race you need the aluminum diff cases. Next most important is tires. Without the right tire setup you're screwed, plain a simple. You can dial your suspension, you can tweak your engine, you can have the best truck on the track mechanically, but if you have the wrong tires then you won't be able to compete, plain and simple.

The brakes are a must because the stock ones are a bit twitchy and hard to modulate, whereas the high performance ones are supposed to be much much more linear and fade-free, which is precisely what you want for racing. The LST comes with super-soft shock spring stock...much too soft in fact. I would highly suggest picking up some stiffer springs, most likely the black ones, because they're a nice middle ground setup. I run the stiffest Losi offers, the yellow ones, and after I put my RC Solutions cage on I'm not sure they'll be stiff enough. Time will tell.

As for the air filter and body...well...the stock air filter isn't bad, but Motorsavers are better, and the HPI Motorsavers is 6 bucks cheaper than one actually packaged by Motorsavers, so I buy them. It's a Motorsavers filter, but HPI buys them in bulk and puts their header on it instead, and they price it about 25% lower. Hard to lose really. As for the body...well...the stock one is rather generic, and frankly...it's weak. I've hammered the hell out of my MGT, and that body still looks good...whereas the LST has been babied in comparison and its body is falling apart. I say you should get the Crowd Pleazer because it's gorgeous and it's a race body, which fits your racing LST perfectly, but really, any Pro-Line body will do. Of course this is mostly a style item, but a stronger body will help your truck stay in one piece on hard rollovers, because it won't deform and hang up on everything. Instead it will retain its shape and slide, thus reducing the likelihood (sp?) of your shock towers or engine head hanging up on something and getting tweaked and/or broken.

[metalry101]

its not durable at all even that slow ass revo can beat it
Hey jackass, go somewhere else to whine.

[LostinHere]

Yes, get the aluminum diff cases. They're only 10 bux each, so you're looking at 20 bones for the whole truck. Not only are they shinier, they're stronger.

As for aluminum a-arms...umm...NO. Aluminum a-arms are a TERRIBLE idea. Yes the stockers are somewhat weak, but that's a good thing in some ways. Ever replaced an a-arm? It's about the easiest thing to fix on the truck. Really...it couldn't be much easier. On the other hand, that bulkhead taht it screws into, and the hingepin that it pivots on could be a little bit more of a PITA, especially if the pin is bent, which is exactly what would happen if you ran aluminum arms. Trust me, aluminum a-arms are a terrible investment. It just moves the breakage point to a more expensive part that is a lot harder and more time consuming to replace.

About the fluids...no, not 120K in the shocks, they simply wouldn't move. Literally, it'd be like pushing the piston through your hand. BTW, I'm not exagerating. 120K is for the diffs. That's uber-thick oil that would basically give you a diff action like a very very tight limited slip. It helps the truck break traction so that it rotates better in the corners, and it climbs hills better because it won't unload all of the power to the wheel with the least traction (aka, the path of least resistance). Seeing as you're a noob I'll try to do a simple explanantion of how the craziness that is a diff works.

A diff is a differential. It's called a differential because it allows a differentiation in wheel speed between the two wheels on either side. This is necessary for many purposes, the most important being turning. To understand this, draw two circles, a big one and a little one inside of the big one. Now imagine your truck going around those two cirlces, the inside tire is on the small circle and the outside tire is on the outside circle. Obviously the tire on the larger circle has the travel a longer path than the inside tire to travel the same distance degree-wise. The differential allows it to do that.

The diff also does good things like prevent drivetrain breakage, because the nature of the diff is to send power to the wheel that provides the least resistance. Automotive diffs work the same way, which is why when you see a car stuck in the snow or ice it is often only spinning one wheel, even though it is 2WD under normal circumstances. The reason this is a good thing is that it lets power escape as wheelspin instead of being forced upon the drivetrain components as a massive shockload. The downside of it is that if you're climbing a hill or going mudbogging or something and one tire finds a very loose section with basically no traction, or is even lifted off the ground, all of the power is sent to that tire. Putting a very very thick oil in the differential slows that action down considerably (or almost entirely if you put something as massively thick as 120K weight oil in). The fluid is very thick and gooey, which means that it is much harder for the diff to unload all of the available power to one wheel, meaning your truck mud bogs and climbs better.

This lack of differential action also helps to rotate the truck in corners because instead of the rear end following the front, it will break traction (due to both tires trying to travel the same distance, even though it is physically impossible due to the differentiating radii of their respective curves). This basically means that the rear end of the truck will slide a bit around the curve instead of turning. Some people desire that sort of handling trait in a truck, as it makes the truck more stable in that it is more likely to spin and slide rather than dig in and traction roll. The truck is a bit twitchier with that sort of setup, so it does take a bit of getting used to, but it really is a sweet setup. Since my engine is down for the count right now, I'm thinking about ripping my diffs apart and putting some 100K in the rear and maybe some 10K or 30K in the front.

Hope all of this helps and makes sense. LMK if it's a bit unclear about anything or if you have any other questions. I'd be glad to help, as would the other guys in this thread I'm sure.

Thank you very much for the detailed reply. I understand very clearly now about the diff action. I am not really racing the LST so perhaps I will just use 50k or so in the diff cases. Will have to play with that.

Does sound like I do need to replace with the aluminum diff cases however. Any suggestions on source for these parts? Should I use something like Team Associated diff oil or is there something else better?

I completely agree with you on the aluminum a-arms. It does create a much more expensive break point. I am snapped an a-arm and it was very easy to fix. Took like 10 minutes.

Thanks again...

[badboy2]

y do u need to hop up brakes i thot the stock are enough to stop it?i never tried mine yet maybe next week

[metalry101]

The stock brakes are exceptionally strong, but they're difficult to control. They're not very smooth, and if you use them a lot, they fade. The high performance brake set is actually not as strong when it comes to sheer stopping power, but they're supposed to be MUCH easier to modulate (a very very very important thing in racing), and less prone to fade under heavy usage. To put it in perspective...the stock brakes are like a car's parking brake. Their is basically no modulation. You pull on it and it locks the tires. Ya it stops the car in a hurry (well...imagine a parking brake that pulls on all 4 brakes, that would stop a car in a hurry), but it's harder than hell to control. The normal hydraulic (sp?) brakes generally aren't going to lock the wheels, but they're MUCH easier to use than the parking brake because you can easily contol how much braking power you're using, and they don't fade nearly as fast. You can still control the vehicle's direction while using them, and you can use them a lot without much loss in braking power. That's precisely the idea of the high performance brakes.

[metalry101]

Thank you very much for the detailed reply. I understand very clearly now about the diff action. I am not really racing the LST so perhaps I will just use 50k or so in the diff cases. Will have to play with that.

Does sound like I do need to replace with the aluminum diff cases however. Any suggestions on source for these parts? Should I use something like Team Associated diff oil or is there something else better?

I completely agree with you on the aluminum a-arms. It does create a much more expensive break point. I am snapped an a-arm and it was very easy to fix. Took like 10 minutes.

Thanks again...

Glad I could help! :)

The aluminum diff cases are a Losi part. LOSB3531

As for the oil, any good silicone diff oil will do. The AE stuff isn't cheap, but it'd probably work fine. My shop caries primarily GS oil if memory serves correct so that's probably what I'll run. As long as it's a name brand silicone oil, you'll be fine, just get whichever you think is the prettiest, or cheapest, or just pick which one you want.

[snakedude23]

Thanks for all the help!

You guys will be jealous, but I'm getting 2 servos for steering - the new Hitec 5998! 250oz of torque, .19 transit. Heh.

I also ordered a RC Solutions Roll Cage, and the aluminum diff cases. I also grabbed some Super King Pin tires, and the Orion 1400mah reciever pack. Do I need anything else? Also grabbed the Crowdpleazer body. Anything else?

Also a diff cover, and a New Era wheelie bar.

[Monsterbrad]

WOW
how about the gear cover for the back of the gears!

[Ball Racing]

If you find out the Losi aluminum covers are out of stock anywhere,
the ones from the Mayhem buggy are the exact same.

[WorldOfNoise]

Just got the gear covers that I bought on ebay. Good seller, I got free international shipping. They are not the best looking out of the box, but 10 minutes worth of sanding/buffing and you get a decent shine! It fits really well, I must say.

As per my diff's- Metalry101 pretty much answered all your questions eh? One thing I do recommend is the same weight oil in both diffs or heavier in the front. If you go heavier in the rear than in the front the truck will "push" and go straight. If you notice that your LST will not turn when you are on the gas, it will be more pronounced if the oil in the rear is heavier than in the front.
This goes against classic automotive thinking, I know, it took me a while to get my head around it. It mostly applies to 2 wheel drive so all the power gets spread over two tires... Where if; the rear diff is locked/spooled/limited slip it will come out the corner with more power going to the ground, instead of like my one-tire-fire AE86.
In an r/c you want it to be able to turn fast so you want the front tires to "pull" the front in the direction they are pointing. (unlike a real car wher the front tires "push" to get movement) Because of the weight transfer to the rear of the r/c under acceleration and due to the short wheelbase, it unwieghts the front tires and reduces the traction for turning. The solution is most easily acheived by putting heavy silicone oil in the diff. (Heavy not for the actual weight) This helps the front by making the inside tire, usually the slower moving one, spin faster thus pulling the truck in the direction it's pointing! man that took me a while to get to

[Monsterbrad]

I was talkin the thin aluminum shield that goes behind the spur gears and that.
Keeps debris outa the gears.

[WorldOfNoise]

Just got the gear covers that I bought on ebay. Good seller, I got free international shipping. They are not the best looking out of the box, but 10 minutes worth of sanding/buffing and you get a decent shine! It fits really well, I must say.

As per my diff's- Metalry101 pretty much answered all your questions eh? One thing I do recommend is the same weight oil in both diffs or heavier in the front. If you go heavier in the rear than in the front the truck will "push" and go straight. If you notice that your LST will not turn when you are on the gas, it will be more pronounced if the oil in the rear is heavier than in the front.
This goes against classic automotive thinking, I know, it took me a while to get my head around it. It mostly applies to 2 wheel drive so all the power gets spread over two tires... Where if; the rear diff is locked/spooled/limited slip it will come out the corner with more power going to the ground, instead of like my one-tire-fire AE86.
In an r/c you want it to be able to turn fast so you want the front tires to "pull" the front in the direction they are pointing. (unlike a real car wher the front tires "push" to get movement) Because of the weight transfer to the rear of the r/c under acceleration and due to the short wheelbase, it unwieghts the front tires and reduces the traction for turning. The solution is most easily acheived by putting heavy silicone oil in the diff. (Heavy not for the actual weight, hehe.) This helps the front by making the inside tire, usually the slower moving one, spin faster thus pulling the truck in the direction it's pointing! man that took me a while to get to

[Monsterbrad]

Thats why my truck has 120,000 wt in the front.
It steers great and hardly balloons anymore when turning and on power.
Just had a stupid encounter with a large cement pillar and smashed up the right front pretty good.
After driving my MGT for so long it's kinda shocking to see how much power this thing really has stock.
Got outa control for me
been driving these things for 12+ years!

[WorldOfNoise]

I have OFNA 120K wt in both my diffs, I only bash around town and it works great for me! I was thinking about getting the locker from Vertigo (http://www.vertigoperformance.com), picking up a diff assembly off ebay and having a spare locked diff for bashing in the loose dirt. Which, the is lots of in my city!
I can see how 120K silicone would basically lock up a diff for a vehicle with small tires. Its hard to move the diff when it's out of the truck. But, because of the size of the rubber on this truck it's pretty easy to move when it's in.
http://photos4.flickr.com/8039652_2d3e2f2b69_t.jpg (http://photos4.flickr.com/8039652_2d3e2f2b69.jpg)
Thats the gear cover I got, it wouldn't let me upload it last time!
BTW Sorry about the double post...

[Colt M4]

Did everyone see that team losi came out with a forward only tranny kit? Already put an order in, and i am first on the list at my LHS. They also came out with internal titanium gears for the tranny. They have them listed on the horizon hobby website.

[doesgo]

Sweeeeeet! :)

[Jackyl]

Hey lst guys :D "i'm a savage guy :p"

I like the lst it's suave :D But I'm mainly interested in the shocks for my savage. But I was told they are weak junk. and I shouldn't bother with them. So I figure I would give you guys a shot.

I am very interested in the lst shocks for adaptation onto my savage. But I need bombproof shocks "or at least as close to ground zero as I can get".

I've heard the shock shafts are weak, but I've seen titanium shock shafts on ebay. and losi makes 7+lb springs for the shocks so I know on paper these shocks fit the bill for duties on a flying eagle jumper.

So can you guys help me? or should I just stick with my crappy bendable savage shocks and hb savage shock junk?

[Colt M4]

The LST shocks are great. I don't know where you heard they were junk. Haven't had a problem with mine ever. Just buy the threaded ones.

[Ball Racing]

Don't put thick oil in your savage shocks, they won't bend.(mine didn't)stay with 10-15wt

The stock savage shocks don't bend as fast as the aftermarket ones(integy, hot boddies etc).

[Colt M4]

If you take a look into the Hot News and Products forum you see that RPM came out with A-Arms for the LST. I might buy a set if any of my stock A-Arms break.

[doesgo]

What's better about the threaded LST shocks than non-threaded? Tougher? Stronger? Thicker?

RPM has LST arms? AWESOME! In two tanks of fuel we broke two arms yesterday. They're easy to replace, but it sure is annoying!

[badboy2]

Hey lst guys :D "i'm a savage guy :p"

I like the lst it's suave :D But I'm mainly interested in the shocks for my savage. But I was told they are weak junk. and I shouldn't bother with them. So I figure I would give you guys a shot.

I am very interested in the lst shocks for adaptation onto my savage. But I need bombproof shocks "or at least as close to ground zero as I can get".

I've heard the shock shafts are weak, but I've seen titanium shock shafts on ebay. and losi makes 7+lb springs for the shocks so I know on paper these shocks fit the bill for duties on a flying eagle jumper.

So can you guys help me? or should I just stick with my crappy bendable savage shocks and hb savage shock junk?


i have them on my sav and mine handles better its like a truggy cuz it also dropped some height
http://img5.exs.cx/img5/857/DSC01136.jpg

[badboy2]

http://img22.exs.cx/img22/3123/DSC01141.jpg


me and my bro were impressed cuz the way it handled some jumps on the construction site was amazing..

[doesgo]

Nice! Now you just need some lowered chassis side plates to lower that center-of-gravity, badboy!

[metalry101]

The stock shocks are plenty strong enough. If you rack a curb or something I'm sure you'll break a shaft, but I have yet to hear of people bending them like you do on Savage shocks. They only real advantages to the threaded bodies that I can see are one) adjustability and two) they're pretty. On the adjustability part, they're not any more adjustable than the stockers, but it is easier to adjust threaded shocks than to carry pre-load spacers around. As for looks, that's a preference thing.

As for the comment about thinner oil...umm...you obviously don't know what doesgo does with his Savage, do you? Check out SlapMaFro's website. Thin oil will prevent shock explosion for sure, but then what's the point of running oil at all, because oil that thin won't give you any dampening on big jumps, meaning instead of blowing a shock occassionally you're just gonna bend your motor mount or something when you land a jump from 20 feet and your skids/chassis smack the ground with all that force that your shocks didn't absorb. Not a good thing. One thing that can be done to help a bit is run tall tires with massive sidewalls. MGT or LST tires are ideal, but there are a lot of good tires on the market that run a standard size rim, meaning lotza soft sidewall to help absorb energy. Ya, they don't corner as well generally, but if you're jumping high enough to blow shocks that often you probably don't mind sacrificing a little bit of that precision turn in.

BTW, the Ti shafts aren't Ti...they're just Titanium Nitride coated, much like the gold shafts that Traxxas Big Bores come with. It's not for strength at all, but rather for durability and smoothness. The TiNi coating is EXTREMELY hard, which means it doesn't pit and scar as easily when rocks and dirt are hucked at it by spinning tires and such. This means the seals in your shocks last longer and you get a smoother suspension. Not a bad upgrade for sure, but it's not a solid titanium shaft like you were hoping, so it won't be much (if any) more resistant to bendage or breakage in an impact as the stock shaft.

[Jackyl]

Dude, I know what the differance is between titanium and titanium nitrate. The shock shafts that I linked to on ebay are made out of titanium not coated with titanium nitrate! Your like the 4th guy to not read a link :D

And I'm running the stock savage tires so they have enough sidewall. It's just the fact that the savage shocks blow goat nuts! and all aftermarket shocks are waiting in line for a chance to blow those nuts too.

I think that nova towers and either 8 high quality 8th scale buggy shocks with 3.5mm shafts or 4 lst shocks are the best shock setup for the savage. Now it's just a matter of how to get everything in a cost effective way :D

I read alot about the lst shocks not having clearance for turning in the front, but I think that would depend on the rims that you use. I mainly use rpm offset rims. but I thought the stock savage tires/rims would be better for jumping. :mad:

[doesgo]

I misunderstood, Jackyl, I thought you meant actual Losi shock shafts. Where's the link you're referring to? I'd like to check it out.

As for the thin oil vs thick oil, it's just a balancing act. Obviously if you run super-thin oil you'll have very little dampening, which isn't any better than too much dampening. We just try to find a happy medium somewhere and take a chance on blowing some shocks. I looked into upgrading the shocks on my Savage, but couldn't find anything that was consistenly reported to be better, so I gave up. Besides, when you can get eight fully-assembled stock Savage shocks with springs and hardware for under $40 on eBay, it's tough to spend $180 on the buggy shock conversion.

But I'd love to see YOU do it Jackyl, and then report back to us how it works! :)

[Monsterbrad]

If you want LST
JUST BUY ONE :D
Savages are cool but they are a pain to work on!
LST is better in many ways but lacks in the all out durability part where the savage will woop an LST in my opinion!
The Savage looks good with the LST shocks on there lowers it alot but that might work against guys like doesgo that jump the crap outa the truck.
I like the savage cause of the long suspension travel and want the new 4.6 but i have heard too many bad things about them as well as many many good.
The 25 now comes with all the up grades minus that 28 engine.
The LST still hauls for being stock though!
mine is fast enough for me!
I was going to sell it to buy a 4.6 but decided against it after I ran my LST for the first time all winter last week.

[Ball Racing]

How much more travel does the savage have?
Mine didn't seem like it had anymore than my other trucks.
Those shocks make it look like alot.
Are we talking 1/8" more of 1/4"?

[metalry101]

Savages don't have any more suspension travel than any other truck, but the extra shock travel does help control that travel better than most stock trucks.

And about those hop-ups in a 4.6...There are a lot of them. The only two that are now included in the RTR's are the 4 bevel gear diff mod and the Cam Type Servo Saver. The spiffy pipe, better air filter, dual disk brakes, Dirt Bonz, and whatever miscelaneous things aren't on the RTR's. From what I've seen that .28 rocks, especially for a stock engine. About the only bad side I've seen of it so far has been the pull-start, but I don't know of a single big block engine on the makret that has a reliable pull-start. Lotza compression and mass means they just don't last, and neither do one-ways.

[Monsterbrad]

Had the truck out a little bit ago after repairing the front end.
Seems to be pretty good.
The only thing is the stock clutch on the new stock engine seems to slip just a little but not too bad.
I forget how much this truck just plain rips!
Its fast for all Stock.
As for the 4.6 savage I would like to race one with the LST and see how close they are in stock form!
LST is still a great truck I just want to add the 4.6 to my collection and have the new 28 also.
Plus a build up would be cool also!
LST is a keeper

[Colt M4]

Hey does anyone have the Super king pins tires? And if so how well do they work?

[JeremyMSG]

Need some help. What is everyone doing as far as glow plugs are concerned. I am going through them at a very high rate (4 plugs in about 1/2 gallon of fuel). Has anyone else had this problem with the MC-59's on their LST or could I be doing something wrong? I am running between 230-240 degrees F. Thanks for the help.

[doesgo]

I just burned out the original plug after about a third-gallon and replaced it with an MC-9 with great results. Typically the MC-59 is hotter and runs best in small-blocks, while the big-blocks like colder plugs like the MC-8 and MC-9. Might be worth trying.

[xdamxincx]

has anyone had any negative results from using 30% fuel in the mach motor ?

[Colt M4]

I have never had a problem with MC-59 in my Mach. I would not recommend using 30% in the mach. My dad tried it with his LST and if did not run very well and was harder to tune.

[Monsterbrad]

xdam
Don't use 30% with out a head shim!
It will blow out the glow plug and the coil can go into the engine and cause probelms for the piston and sleeve.
I did this and trashed the original engine.
What are you guys using for reciever batteries??????

[Colt M4]

I am using Ofna MDP 1400.

[JeremyMSG]

I just burned out the original plug after about a third-gallon and replaced it with an MC-9 with great results. Typically the MC-59 is hotter and runs best in small-blocks, while the big-blocks like colder plugs like the MC-8 and MC-9. Might be worth trying.

Thanks for the response. I was also thinking of the OS #8 plug. I will also try the MC-9's. I think the MC-59's wire might just be to thin for the vibrations these things have.

[Monsterbrad]

I use the Dynamite 59 plug they seem to work well in everything.

[metalry101]

Like doesgo I run a McCoy MC9. I also run the Ofna 1400 that Colt M4 runs.

[JeremyMSG]

Thanks guys. Is the Dynomite 59 the stock plug that is made by the same people who make the motor. I have not seen one yet. Is it a "Hotter" plug. Thanks again for all of the responses. This is a really fun truck, no other problems other than the glow plugs :)

[doesgo]

SH makes the Mach 26, I believe McCoy makes the plug that Dynamite repackages as their MC-59.

[Colt M4]

I thought that Dynamite makes the Mach series of motors.

[Ball Racing]

You can run 30% in any motor,
you need to go to a colder plug when you do so.
If you take time to measure the head clearance, it has tons of rooms like .025 thousanths.
If you run 20% on most motors you can get by with .012 clearance.
I have not seen a time yet where when you go up on nitro % that it does not become more finicky to tune...

That MC59 runs warm enough to help the motor stay running if you don't have it tuned right, or the temps is real low..

They have to recommend things that the AVERAGE Joe can do, and keep running.
Not always what is the most performance oreinted. ;)

[Monsterbrad]

This truck rips any ways so it does not matter the fuel.
I like oddonnell fuel the best so far!
Seems to work very well and the performance is great.
30% in my mind is not needed unless the engine is modded!

[doesgo]

"I thought that Dynamite makes the Mach series of motors."

It's a Dynamite Mach 26, but it's made by SH, just like XTM, GS, and I believe Sportwerks engines. Team Infinity makes the Orion Wasp 28, Peak .28, and I believe the Fantom .27. Picco makes the OFNA/Picco .26, the Orion Wasp .26, and the Werks .26.

It's called "Badge Engineering"! :)

[metalry101]

So how are you guys making the Crowd Pleazer 2.0 body fit on the LST without hacking it? I've got a friend who bought it and even with the front posts in their highest position the body still hacks the tops of the front shocks, so I'm wondering how you guys are getting around that. The body looks sick, and I want to get it, but it's kinda odd that it hacks the shocks up front. Any advice here?

[Ball Racing]

Just put the Collari 30 on my LST along with the Werks clutch :D :D :p ;)

[jeremymoemorris]

I run the Crowd Pleaser 2.0 and I did put small holes in the front to compensate for the shocks, it doesn't look that bad and they only stick out a little. Check the MTX3 body mounts I think th rear are bigger and will fit the LST. I'm sure others will work also but that is what I had at home so that is what I looked at.

[jeremymoemorris]

Anyone running the SH .28 in the LST? How does it compare to the bad ass stock Mach.26?

[WorldOfNoise]

So how are you guys making the Crowd Pleazer 2.0 body fit on the LST without hacking it? I've got a friend who bought it and even with the front posts in their highest position the body still hacks the tops of the front shocks, so I'm wondering how you guys are getting around that. The body looks sick, and I want to get it, but it's kinda odd that it hacks the shocks up front. Any advice here?
You can get the extra long body mounts. Part #LOSB 2451 http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2005/lst/losb2451.jpg

[LostinHere]

Anyone using shock socks? Anyone buy from badhorsie.com? They look nice but always weary of buying over the net from someone I have never heard of before.

Thx...

[badboy2]

i just changed my steering servos on the lst and after changing them both of my front wheels are pointing towards the center is that ok?i think they use to be straight..
http://img234.exs.cx/img234/7563/dsc013619ss.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

[badboy2]

another pic
http://img234.exs.cx/img234/6231/dsc013643xd.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

[doesgo]

No, you want some toe-out on the front, not toe-in. Can you move the servo horns one tooth to compensate?

[Ball Racing]

?
I don't think my LST steering system is idependent to each servo, so how can moving the servo put toe in or out into the steering?????

[WorldOfNoise]

Change the length on your turnbuckles (a.k.a. tie rods) I think you have to shorten them to get the wheels straight again. Check your manual for the length that they are supposed to be.

[badboy2]

idk how it happened its either toe in or one tire would be inwards and 1 is straight..

[doesgo]

If you can't bring the two servo horns closer together, you need to adjust the tie rods as WorldofNoise suggested.

[Ball Racing]

Whats up with the one savage tire??

[badboy2]

i just tried if they would look good heheh ..
thanks guys i didnt wanna adjust them cuz i didnt touch them at all but id do it see if will change..the one i touched was the wire that holds the servo savers but no matter how i put it.. its the same thing

[Monsterbrad]

Smaller tires make this truck really fasy outa the hole.
I had SUT tires on mine last fall and was a wheelie monster.
But went back to the stock tires which I like better for bashing they are a little more cushy and allow the suspension to work better and absorb crashes a little better.
Another bash session tonight!
Weather is good :D

[Monsterbrad]

ran the truck friday night
broke another drive shaft pin by the axle!
tying a ejector pin from my dads tool and die shop.
I will test it today.
I also noticed that the new style axles have 4 holes in them and they are a few thousands smaller then the originals on my first run truck.
My bud has a second run truck and was pounding the heck outa it and he has broken nothing after 2 gallons of bashing!
:mad: not fare!

[Colt M4]

MonsterBrad why don't you invest in some Mip CVD's.

[Monsterbrad]

u know of a good place to get them thats cheaper.
kinda running outa cash for this hobby

[Headsup]

Well, had a great bashing session with the LST yesterday. This truck really has some power after it is broken in. I installed the yellow springs to stiffen it ups and now it slides great on pavement and doesn't roll over. Downside is that I let my wife drive it and she slid right into a pole and broke an A-arm. Anyone know if the RPM arms are out yet and who might have them. I see them on their site, but can't order them yet. Probably have to be stock replacement for now.

[doesgo]

I haven't seen them available anywhere yet either, but if anyone has a source, let's hear it!

I had a very good bash session with my LST a week ago, really the first good bashing session. We did break two arms and a diff case (stock plastic), but the arms were so easy to replace and we had so much fun with it we're willing to put up with the fragility. We really skied it a couple times too, which got ugly, and it survived it admirably. Very good truck! Amazing power and handling for an RTR.

[jmangler1]

Hello, I have a LST roller for sale. Includes everyting but the engine, servo's, transmitter and reciever, or body. I will sell for $200.00. I just bought it last month. It is the new batch. I does have aluminum front and rear diffs and I filled the diffs with 50,000 in front and 30,000 in the rear. Stock wheels and tires. Everything is in great condition! I only had it a month and I dont bash I race. First $200.00 takes it! For pic's give me an email and I will send them over to you. I posted here because the for sale forum is locked.

Thanks

[Headsup]

Can someone tell me why the stock diff cases are breaking? I know they are plastic, but aren't they protected by the skids? Also, what is the stock weight of the grease in the diffs?

[Colt M4]

MonsterBrad you can find them on ebay for real cheap. The stock diff cases break because the when you put higher diff fluid in it the diff starts to move around more because it is acting more like a solid axle. So all that extra pressure causes the case to break. If your going to switch to diff fluid, I recommend using aluminum diff cases.

[Monsterbrad]

I will look on there for the MIP shafts!
how many of you guys have them on the truck?????
My buddy has a second run truck and has not broken anything except for trashing the stock body.
My axles are just crappy first run ones and continue to break.
I have heard of a few people breaking the MIP ones also.

[LostinHere]

I broke the plastic diff cases without changing the fluid. It probably more related to the strength of the brakes. It really seems to affect the front diff more. I have switched to the aluminum cases (blue) with 50k fluid and have not had any probs.

I would recommend getting the gear conversation kit and upgrading to the high performance brakes.

The truck is really tough...have only broken the diff case and an a-arm.

[doesgo]

I broke my front case a week ago and I'm finally getting around to installing the aluminum diff cases. When I put the gears into the case, however, they're really notchy. Anyone know why this might be and what I need to do to rectify it?

I've broken one axle/dogbone pin, three arms, and the front diff case. Sure, that's some damage, but the fun-to-breakage ratio is GREAT!

[Colt M4]

MonsterBrad I have never heard of anybody breaking the mip CVD's. If you did break I wonder how you did because they are very hard to break.

[WorldOfNoise]

... The stock diff cases break because the when you put higher diff fluid in it the diff starts to move around more because it is acting more like a solid axle. So all that extra pressure causes the case to break. If your going to switch to diff fluid, I recommend using aluminum diff cases.
The plastic diff cases do not last under any conditions. The front one will break just by hitting the brakes, and the rear one has a good chance of cracking the first time the truck does a wheelie. I've seen it happen to 4 stock LST's!! This WILL happen with the factory grease in the diffs, and like Colt M4 said, It's even worse if the diffs have silicon oil in them. It is a necessary upgrade.

PS. the notchyness of the diffs smooths out after they are run. They feel exactly like that brand new. (I took mine out to shrink wrap the CV pins in, before I even drove the truck.)

[doesgo]

Thanks WorldOfNoise! Looking forward to a major bashing weekend and it wouldn't be the same with the LST!

[LostinHere]

Make sure to take out the thin washer/shim the is on the right side of the diff assembly when you upgrade to the aluminum diff case. That piece seems to cause the ring and pinion to bind a little.

[Monsterbrad]

Losi should just get rid of the plastic cases and put the aluminuim ones in factory!
they charge enough for the truck.
Where has anybody bought MIP CVD's for this truck?????
other than ebay

[WorldOfNoise]

Make sure to take out the thin washer/shim the is on the right side of the diff assembly when you upgrade to the aluminum diff case. That piece seems to cause the ring and pinion to bind a little.
Yes, the thin washer does keep the ring tight against the pinion, I just left mine in. So did the three other guys I know who have LST's. So far so good... The notchy feel with the Al cases goes away after a couple of tanks. I dont know if leaving the washer out will produce too much "slop" between the gears or not, maybe someone should contact Losi about it. :confused:

Anyone running the Dynamite (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN7204) bellcranks? I busted mine up at the skate park...I guess thats what you get when you're distracted!!!

[Ball Racing]

I couldn't make the washer fit in mine.

Hey Brad, hey much should the truck cost without the alumnium?
Take away the radio,and all the servos and put a cheese one in like the rest of the monsters and you you have a 400 dollar truck like everyone else.

Breakage or not does any other truck have all cvd's drivetrain rtr?

Lucky its only 599.00

[doesgo]

The only other one I can think of with universals or CVAs all around is the Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium Pro, but that one comes with a crappy engine and electronics and still costs over $500.

Then again, CVAs alone don't make a great truck...especially if they're fragile.

Speaking of fragile, I'm getting frustrated with this truck. Yes it's fast, yes it handles well, yes it's a blast to drive, but after only one good bashing session (and a couple very short ones for various reasons) we've broken three A arms, one axle, one diff case, and bent the main chassis plate and broke the engine support bracket thing between the main and lower chassis plates. We bash relatively hard, but that's pretty pathetic.

[doesgo]

Is there an aftermarket engine mount support bracket thing out there other than from Dynamite? (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN7214)

[Ball Racing]

If someone has had a truck
that was as fast as they wanted
was handling like they wanted
jumped like they wanted
was as fun to drive as they wanted
survived 50 mph head on with walls, curbs, trees like they wanted
came this way RTR,
please post results so we can buy it,
and not have "troubles" with these trucks.

[doesgo]

I realize no truck is "perfect", especially since "perfect" is different to different people. I'm just expressing my current disappointment with the LST. Landing flat off a decent-sized jump (maybe got about 4' in the air) at my local track should NOT break an A-arm!

Again, I love driving this truck and I will fix it up, it's just got me upset right now because I think this much breakage in such a short time is inexcusable.

[metalry101]

I can't say I disagree with doesgo. I haven't had problems with breakage on mine so far, but maybe I've been lucky. I haven't beat it too hard, and truth be told my engine crapped out on me so I haven't driven mine in something like 3 weeks, but still. I dunno what's up, because while the truck was definately not designed to be beat into submission like a Savage or MGT, it's not THAT weak. I've only broken one arm, a diff case, a diff (because of the diff case), and a CVD. The arm was my fault, the diff case was weak from the factory, the diff was because I didn't want to replace the diff case so I kept driving it around and just wore down the ring and pinion, and the dogbone was because a set screw came out in the front center drive and I was only driving in 2WD but still trying to climb a 150 foot sand hill. I'm assuming that on one of the bounces or something I didn't back off the throttle and landed with lotza wheelspeed but very little truck speed. That'll toast any truck's drive axles.

Oh...and the MGT comes with CV axles all the way around straight from the factory. I've got one of those too and I absolutely LOVE it. It is an exceptional machine, and definately a better basher than the LST.

And about the engine mount brace. I dunno. I'd assume Integy is making one, but I don't know if any of their LST stuff is out yet. You might try Hardcore. I think they have a lot of stuff out for the LST already. If not you might e-mail them and suggest that they make one since it definately is a commonly broken part. I personally have the Dynamite one on order right now.

[doesgo]

Thanks metalry. I've got a Dynamite on order right now, hopefully it'll hold up. I definitely don't expect miracles out of this truck, but I did expect it to be more durable than it is. If it only broke on bad landings or huge air that'd be one thing, but it breaks while driving around the track, too.

I gotta get me an MGT to try out, I keep hearing such good things!

[Ball Racing]

I broke a shock shaft on mine from a head on with a fence post,
I broke 2 rear axles.
I broke NO a- arms
Like you said every body has different probs.
Mine has cart-wheeled toooooo many times, landed on it's top tooo many times,
but I have no more trouble with it than all the other trucks I've had....
Diffs broke in my savage, and maxx so I don't see that as a issue, it's just the housing on the LST not the spiders or diff cup...
I broke plenty maxx arms, no issue,
I NEVER broke a savage arm, ummmm Way too go HPI !!

[Colt M4]

I guess the LST is more made for racing and regular bashing not hardcore bashing that why it kepts on breaking. You should try the new RPM arms. If I ever break any of my arms I will surely replace them with the RPM ones.

[doesgo]

Me too, as soon as they're available I'll be buying the RPM arms!

[ALJR]

duno HOW you broke the A-arm from jumping 4 ft! i have launched my lst full-tilt off of jumps and getting at least 10 ft or air and about 20 ft in distance w/o any broken parts.. i would have to guess that the arm was broken before the jump and it just happen to compleatly fail at that point..

[metalry101]

I dunno...coulda been that, but those stock a-arms are known to do odd things. Sometimes they hold up great, other times turning the truck seems to break them. Hopefully the RPM arms will be a much stouter setup.

[Ball Racing]

Lots of times, we wreck into something, and seems OK , but we crack something,
then you jump a anthill and break a shock or arm.
It's not always the last jumps fault , but what we did before hand.

[doesgo]

You guys might be right, maybe we cracked the arm in a bigger crash or tumble, and it finally let go during a "normal" jump. The breakage is still too frequent in my opinion, but that would explain the odd times at which things do break!

[Ball Racing]

Any body got a better main transimission shaft?
My Collari 30 MT is breaking them into!!!!!! :eek: :confused:

[Monsterbrad]

Just drive shafts here!
But I also have one of the first run trucks so thats how it goes I guess.
Still runs great though
super fast for a rtr truck that weighs a ton!

[Ball Racing]

Well I just went and welded the ring gear to the main shaft, and it lasted two tanks,
Maybe it will last a bit more.
that 30 is just crazy, :D and plus it's been ported, and the case cut..... ;)
I just got my TitNI spur, and clutch gears last night,,, :cool:

[Monsterbrad]

OK guys this is FINAL!
The truck is FOR SALE as a roller!
No engine.
No radio.
Best offer takes it
Thanks

[ALJR]

Well I just went and welded the ring gear to the main shaft, and it lasted two tanks,
Maybe it will last a bit more.
that 30 is just crazy, :D and plus it's been ported, and the case cut..... ;)
I just got my TitNI spur, and clutch gears last night,,, :cool:

adjust your slipper-clutch so its not so hard hitting! or make your clutch shoes heavier so they engage sooner in the rpm range when the engine is making less power..

[Headsup]

Have any of you guys had problems with the washer issue that I read about over on RC Universe? They say it is causing engines to be destroyed by the washer giving way and getting into the engine. Have you guys removed it? Also, any recommendations on a good clutch upgrade?

[Headsup]

One more question, how do I find the serial number of my truck? Sounds like the newer trucks don't have the washer problem.

[metalry101]

Ya...washer problem here. My engine is currently nuked, and I'd assume it's because of that. A little section of my piston is missing. I'll post pics some time.

And the serial number can be found on the side of the radio box. Or could be at least. Mine's not there anymore.

[McKB]

Well i just broke down an bought an LST. I sold my 1/8th buggy a week ago and i missed off road so much i had to buy something. Just wanted to say hi and introduce myself to the forum.

[metalry101]

Welcome to the club! It's an awesome truck!

[LostinHere]

I am removing my washer this weekend. Will report on the findings...

[Headsup]

Guys, it appears that Losi has stopped putting in the washer on the newer trucks. So far, the lowest serial number without the washer that has been reported was 12600. A guy with 11600 still had the washer in his. Mine is 12050 and I haven't taken it apart yet. I wish we could get an official word as to when they stopped doing that so I don't have to open it up if I don't have too.

[WorldOfNoise]

Taking the motor out and getting it apart is relatively easy. It's only, what, eight screws? And one link, and one spring...
For the ones on the backplate, make shure you use a high quality philips or the screws will strip. They are very soft and have tons of Loctite on them from the factory!

[Challenger]

I have LOSI with a low SN, 879. However, I broke it in (10 tanks of fuel) and parked it last year. I noted this information today and just pulled the engine apart. The washer was paper thin and the hole was oblong. Yep, it was ready to cause a bunch of problems. Glad I parked it last year!! I have a NEW back up LOSI (never run) with a higher SN but I suspect it has a washer. Will remove it tomorrow. Whomever figured this out has saved many of us a bunch of money. Great post!!! :)

[Croozer]

Hmmm, it seems that if you are spending $600 on a R/C truck you should not have to buy stronger aftermarket parts.

[Headsup]

Well, I don't want to start flaming Losi or Horizon, but, they know about this problem and they seam to just want to wait for people to trash their engines and send them in vs. doing a recall or putting out a notice of the problem. Especially since they have corrected the problem in the newer trucks.

[ALJR]

Hmmm, it seems that if you are spending $600 on a R/C truck you should not have to buy stronger aftermarket parts.


if the truck was made out a solid chunk of steel, would that make you happy?

why would the price have any thing to with how ppl use/abuse there trucks?

or maybe they should make the truck only go 15 mph so you can't go fast enough to brake any thing?

its all part of the hobby.. you either accept it or stick with your radio-shack special :)

sorry if that sounded like a flame, but it always amuses me when ppl think they can crash a 12lb truck into a tree at 40 mph and not expect any damage..

[McKB]

Have any of you guys noticed your RX pack sonly last like 20 mins or so? I use venom 1200 5 cell flats and it seems like they're getting drained awful fast.

[LostinHere]

I just took the washer in the enginer out...

Glad I did was razor thin with oblong center hole. About to go and I only have about 1 gallon of fuel through this engine.

Would advise others to do the same rather than have to wait 3 wks for replacement/rebuild from Horizon.

[WorldOfNoise]

Have any of you guys noticed your RX pack sonly last like 20 mins or so? I use venom 1200 5 cell flats and it seems like they're getting drained awful fast.
In short, they are!

Make shure that your steering servos are synchronised and all your end points are adjusted correctly. This should fix your short run time. I have the venom 5 cell flat and it usually lasts around 5-6 tanks! I used the wall charger the first few charges, the batteries seemed to like that...

[Croozer]

if the truck was made out a solid chunk of steel, would that make you happy?

why would the price have any thing to with how ppl use/abuse there trucks?

or maybe they should make the truck only go 15 mph so you can't go fast enough to brake any thing?

its all part of the hobby.. you either accept it or stick with your radio-shack special :)

sorry if that sounded like a flame, but it always amuses me when ppl think they can crash a 12lb truck into a tree at 40 mph and not expect any damage..

Whatever,
Try ready my post again, and this time try to comprehend.

[metalry101]

But you expect to when you buy a 400 dollar truck? The difference in price is due to the radio and nothing else. If you take away the radio gear it's the same price as almost every other truck on the market. Yes, it has it's flaws and I agree that it is disappointing in some areas, but it more than makes up for it in others. The engine may not last long, but at least it makes awesome power when it does run. I could go on...but I'm too lazy.

I do agree that there are some bits that could and probably should be addressed, such as the diff housings and the washer in the engine, but other than that I think it's a solid truck. The arms aren't the strongest ever but that's why RPM made some. Buy those. I've seen them in person (my shop got them in on Friday) and they look to be as strong or stronger than we all hoped and expected. My initial judgement on those RPM arms is that they're the best thing you could do to your LST to make it more durable.

[Colt M4]

I have SN 2785 would that probalby have the washer in it? I have about a gallon through and nothing bad has happened. My dad has 765 and he has had no problems with his engine.

[ALJR]

Whatever,
Try ready my post again, and this time try to comprehend.

maybe you should explain it to me? not much there to comprehend! you said that a $600 should not break, right? i understood your post quite clearly, no? if not, please explain it to me..

[Challenger]

I have SN 2785 would that probalby have the washer in it? I have about a gallon through and nothing bad has happened. My dad has 765 and he has had no problems with his engine.

My SN was 879 and had the washer. If you read my post above, after 10 tanks the washer was showing severe wear. It takes about an hour to remove it. Time well spent in my opinion. My backup LOSI has a SN in the 2000’s and no doubt has the washer. This truck has never been fired. Will remove it before I start it the first time. My son has a LOSI that has about 50 tanks ran through it. No problem yet, but he will be removing the washer also. This is a ticking bomb. Sooner or later it will create problems.

[WorldOfNoise]

Just a quick question for everyone; Does your radio glitch like crazy when you run in parking lots?
Mine goes all twitchy when I'm at the mall, even on fresh batteries! Whereas the other guys with other r/c's don't. Living up here the daylight doesnt last, so it would be nice to be able to burn nitro there too...
Just wondering if this is an isolted incident because the guy @ Horizon thought I was crazy!

[LostinHere]

This is a definite defect with your receiver. I had the same problem with two LSTs and Losi sent me a replacement receiver (RS310 I believe). They are having problems with RS300 and vibration. It was more evident on the street than in grass/dirt. This new receiver solved the problem instantly. My LHS has had issues with 8 or so LST receivers over the past couple of months.

[WorldOfNoise]

This is a definite defect with your receiver. I had the same problem with two LSTs and Losi sent me a replacement receiver (RS310 I believe). They are having problems with RS300 and vibration. It was more evident on the street than in grass/dirt. This new receiver solved the problem instantly. My LHS has had issues with 8 or so LST receivers over the past couple of months.
Thanks! It feels good to know that I'm not the only one with this problem...
Hey, did you contact Team Losi or Horizon?

[Croozer]

maybe you should explain it to me? not much there to comprehend! you said that a $600 should not break, right? i understood your post quite clearly, no? if not, please explain it to me..
OK, I said that you should not have to buy aftermarket parts, meaning the supplied parts should suffice at that price range, I realize what some of these people (sarcasm) put these trucks through, and then start crying when something breaks.

BTW, Considering the JR XS3 radio and servos I think the LST is a great deal.

[metalry101]

So...I've got those afformentioned RPM arms on my truck now. Wow they're cool. I haven't had a chance to drive the truck yet (no engine), but I hope to buy a new engine next weekend so I'll have a full report of just how tough they are then. They look super beefy, that's for sure.

[LostinHere]

Thanks! It feels good to know that I'm not the only one with this problem...
Hey, did you contact Team Losi or Horizon?

My LHS handled for me but they called Losi. The RS310 is smaller than the original and has no BEC I believe. Nice receiver.

[Ball Racing]

Buy a engine?
I thought you had your own Hobby Store?

[doesgo]

Even if you own a store you still have to pay for stuff!

[ALJR]

quick question for all you guys who are having glitching problems...

what kind of receiver pack are you using? is it the stock 4-cell "AA" holder or are you experiancing it with other types of battery packs..

the reason why i am asking this is because i was helping my buddy trouble-shoot this same problem yesterday. we determined the problem to be the 4-cell holder.. once the truck was started, the batteries were vibrating around causing the glitching.. this would be even more evident if the battery holder was facing down (battery side touching the chassis)... we installed a 5-cell hump pack and the problem was elimated..

not saying this will cure every one problems, but it worked in this instance..

[McKB]

Mine glitches and i have a 5-cell flat pack, But i'm pretty sure it's the stock brakes rattling against each other. I think i'll upgrade them anyways since i don't like doing front Rolls with my truck.

[metalry101]

Are you talking about me owning my own store?

[ALJR]

Mine glitches and i have a 5-cell flat pack, But i'm pretty sure it's the stock brakes rattling against each other. I think i'll upgrade them anyways since i don't like doing front Rolls with my truck.

not too sure if thats your problem? i have the stock metal pads and im not experiencing any glitching..

btw, to avoide front rolls, adjust your epa so it doesn't lock-up..

[Ball Racing]

Yeah, your always talking about stuff at your shop, stuff you sold, stuff you seen,"at your shop",
I just thought :) it was yours.

[Croozer]

Anybody have the RCCA radar speed test data from a LST, mainly "top speed" and "time to top speed"?

[Challenger]

Anybody have the RCCA radar speed test data from a LST, mainly "top speed" and "time to top speed"?

We did a radar test on grass with my sons LST. If I remember correctly, it was a consistent 35 MPH. My big block T Maxx was 39 MPH. Again, this was on grass. I often wonder if the makers are clocking these on pavement?
Anyone know? Is it grass or pavement?

[ALJR]

my guess is they would test it on which ever surface that could get the fastest speed, hence "top speed"...

[metalry101]

Pavement. Losi used to have a pic of the truck screaming towards the radar gun with the tires ballooned like crazy and everything and the gun reading 44 mph.

Oh...and no, I just work at the shop. I refer to it as "my" shop because no one else here on the boards works there, or that I'm aware of even shops there. I don't know anyone else from Utah on these boards.

Oh...and I just got the RC Solutions roll cage tonight and put it on my truck. Wow it looks mean. Hopefully I'll have an engine in the truck early next week so that I can take it out and use it. The cage and the RPM arms both need to be tested for durability!

[Ball Racing]

On that cage, do you have to hack the body alot?
Also can you still run your bumpers?(on the maxx with that cage you couldn't)

[metalry101]

Minor trimming of the body is all that was needed. I just had to cut out a tiny bit more in the bed and a little bit of the back window. I'll post some pics later tonight. The bumpers are still full functional, as this doesn't interfere with them at all. I don't have an engine mounted in the truck at this point in time so I'm not sure how easy it is to access everything. The instructions say you need to get a longer igniter, but I bet mine will work. I'll probably just have to weave it through the cage. Shouldn't be too bad, I run a Hot Shot 2, one of the smallest on the market.

[Colt M4]

Challenger so even after about 20 tanks of having the washer in it did it probalby hurt the motor

[McKB]

not too sure if thats your problem? i have the stock metal pads and im not experiencing any glitching..

btw, to avoide front rolls, adjust your epa so it doesn't lock-up..


That was the first thing i did before i ran the truck :) but thanx anyways :)

[Monsterbrad]

Anybody want my truck??????
200 bucks roller
everything except radio and engine and a few extra parts
email me
ExExCR@aol.com
814-450-6973
let me know
ebay soon

[Challenger]

Challenger so even after about 20 tanks of having the washer in it did it probalby hurt the motor

Honestly, I don't think so.

The way I see it, the only time you are going to get burned is if it comes apart OR pops off. The hole was oblong in mine indicating wear and the washer would eventually pop off and mix with engine parts. Not good!!!!

I took apart the NEW never fired LOSI engine on my number 2 truck tonight and removed the washer. This was completely different from my seasoned LOSI number 1 truck. On the NEW truck the washer was very tight and I had to pry it off with difficultly. On the older truck, it just more or less fell off.

After removing the washer on my number 1 truck (somewhat seasoned) I ran 5 tanks of fuel through it this weekend at high speed with no problem.

In summary, get rid of it!!!

Hope this helps. :)

[WorldOfNoise]

It's such a nice sunny day, It's been raining for the last week. No wonder they call it the "Wet Coast." Peronally I like to call it the "Curse of the Northwest."
I wish I hadn't taken my LST to the skate park two weeks ago. Allthough, it was fun while it lasted!!!

A couple of questions for everyone;
1. Has anyone converted to a one servo steering setup?
2. What aftermarket bodies are you using?
3. Better bumpers?

I busted my bellcranks, I have the dynamite one on order, it looks a bit beefier, I figured I'd try it. While I had it all apart I thought I would move the z590's up top (both the z270's broke.-my fault I messed up my EPA) and replace them with a single high torque one. Not that the steering is lacking, it's just "thirsty."
Also, I tried to fit the proline F-150 (http://www.prolineracing.com/proline/bodies/3161-81/3181.jpg) on my truck at the (not so local) LHS, but it wasn't wide enough to cover the gearcover/Pipe. Anyone have the F-650 (http://www.prolineracing.com/proline/bodies/3193-96/3193.jpg), more importantly-How well does it fit? Or any other body reccomendations???
I saw some metal bumpers somewhere, I just can't remember where.
As you can all tell, my LST takes quite a beating on a regular basis-But hey, NO COMPLIANTS

[Ball Racing]

I put the F150 body for the LST from Proline on mine,
it just pushes on the cover, and pipe some, but I run now run my body higher than some people.
I was going to run just the one servo, but didn't know if that "wire" connector between the bell cranks would keep the tow right.(it seeem too loose with just one servo connected)

I put two 650's jr servos in for my steering,
and I put a 590 on my throttle.

I also tried the Integy aluminum shock towers,NOT a good thing,
the last 15 minutes before bent beyond repair,
( a bad landing off a foot and half jump that landed on it's back side, and not on the tires.) :mad:
The stock ones just flex back but not that Integy aluminum.

[WorldOfNoise]

I agree that the flimsy wire between the bellcranks would probably not hold. I have this on order...
http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/DYN/250/DYN7204B-250.jpg
Thanks for the tip about the body! And I'll try and avoid the integy stuff, I thought it was a bit "Showy" anyway.

[Ball Racing]

That's what I want right there!!!!
And put say a Airtronics 200oz single on there, like .10 trasit..... oh yeah,,,,,,

[badboy2]

monsterbrad will u trade it ?

[eb4flys]

hi guys been having a read through this topic to help a friend with his losi just to let you know my friends losi let go with the washer issue serial number was...003278 after 3/4 gallon

[Colt M4]

Has anybody ever had their pipe sent to Jet-Hot to have it heat coated because i am thinking about doing that.

[ALJR]

Has anybody ever had their pipe sent to Jet-Hot to have it heat coated because i am thinking about doing that.

now theres money well spent :)

if ya have too much cash, toss some this way :D

duno what, if any, performance gain you will acheave... IMO, you may even lose performance.. pipes are tuned to resonate at certin frequencies.. coating the inside or outside may effect how the exhaust pulses would echo through out the pipe..

[Ball Racing]

Maybe so, but they hard coat them from the factory (Losi has one, Jammin, Sportwerks)which is almost the same as the jet- coat.
Some say they run better with the hard coat.
It will actually keep the a larger amount of heat inside the pipe, which usually scavanges the air from the motor better.

[ALJR]

isn't the hard coating that is currently available a type of anodizing? and i belive that anodized hard coating just makes the surface of the aluminum less likely to be damaged. i don't belive it provides any significant insulation... any one know exactly the details w/ hard anodizeing parts??

besides, isn't the jet-hot coating a type of ceramic coating specifically designed to insulate from heat? would it be able to handle abuse from an mt? and most important, would it be cost effective to have it dun?

Ball Racing, if the pipe is already tuned specifically from the factory. adding the jet-hot would alter the factory tune, maybe.. i suppose if the pipe were designed to be coated, that would be a different story.. that is what i ment un the previous post..

[Ball Racing]

The tune of the engine will cause more of a fix or problem than the pipe..

[doesgo]

The ceramic coatings for exhaust like Jet Hot's can withstand temps pushing 1500 degrees, since they use them on full-size automotive applications, whose headers regular reach 1200+ degrees. They can certainly withstand RC exhaust temps.

[ALJR]

The ceramic coatings for exhaust like Jet Hot's can withstand temps pushing 1500 degrees, since they use them on full-size automotive applications, whose headers regular reach 1200+ degrees. They can certainly withstand RC exhaust temps.


i was refering to how durable (chips, scratches and dings) the coating is, not how much heat it can withstand.. guess it wasn't too clear the way i worded it..

but i still can't see this to be cost effective. not unless you have a buddy that can hook ya up :)

[doesgo]

I agree, ALJR!

[Colt M4]

It is very durable my dad has all his quickdraw pipes for his 1/4 sprint cars jet hotted. It kepts pipe warmer. We actually noticed a performance diferrance.

[WorldOfNoise]

I finally got my truck all put back together with the aforementioned Dynamite bellcranks. No single steering servo yet, it's not in at the store! Them cranks look like they will do the job perfectly.

[metalry101]

My truck should be getting a new engine tomorrow. A Picco .27 in fact! I'll be at work so I won't get to drive it until Thursday, but we'll see just what it can do! Hopefully I don't break something before I really get to test it all out.

[doesgo]

The Picco .27 is a pretty darn nice engine, I think you'll like it! I've only had it in my buggy for a few tanks but so far it rips!

[johannsy]

I'm using novarossi race N528xrs Engine on my LST.

[ALJR]

My truck should be getting a new engine tomorrow. A Picco .27 in fact! I'll be at work so I won't get to drive it until Thursday, but we'll see just what it can do! Hopefully I don't break something before I really get to test it all out.

I have one on the way as well :)

every one i talk to about it says that it rips!

[metalry101]

Well...got some good launching in last night. I think my farthest jump was about 50 feet :)...and it has a lot more in it :D.

The engine is incredible. It starts easily and makes awesome power. I'm definately very pleased with it, and would suggest it above all other big blocks on the market, regardless of price. I don't think there's a better balance of power, reliability, and price out there.

Anyways...the truck held up amazingly well. It was flying about 30-50 feet on each jump, and getting roughly 10-15 feet off the ground, and I didn't break a thing structurally. The front bumper is awesome, as are the RPM arms.

I finally ended my fun when I lawn darted it especially hard and broke a soldered joint in my reciever pack. That's all fixed now though.

One side note though...about those RPM arms. The nylon parts of them are virtually indestructable...but the turnbuckle on the upper arm really sucks. I've broken two of them so far. Once was when my truck ran away and smacked a curb at about 45 degrees doing roughly 20 miles an hour. The second time was this afternoon when the truck was wheelying and therefore not steering and smacked a board in my front yard. It only hit at like 10 miles an hour, but the lousy stainless steel turnbuckle broke on me. I have discovered that the threads are 5mm though, so if I can find some long 5mm bolts, and if I can get the broken off portion out of the inner half of the arm, I should be able to salvage the good parts each time. I've already e-mailed RPM about my concerns asking them for a titanium turnbuckle that won't snap so easily, or a one piece upper arm. We'll see if they deliver!

[Colt M4]

I thought those arms have a life time warranty. You just send them back and they will send you new ones.

[metalry101]

Not the metal part.

[WorldOfNoise]

5mm eh?
Those don't look that long...Maybe these will do...5mm x 20mm?
http://imagescommerce.bcentral.com/merchantfiles/5019329/1520.jpg (http://www.lunsfordracing.com/catalog/5mm_x_20mm_titanium_turnbuckle_2684224.htm)
Lifetime Guarantee Too!

P.S. Lunsford also makes longer ones. I run the Ti turnbuckles and hingepins - IMO unbreakable.

[metalry101]

That'd be cool...except that they're 8 bux each. I ordered some GS ones that are 25mm long. We'll see how those work. 5 bux or something for a pair...hopefully they hold up. GSCST017A is the part I ordered...

[doesgo]

You bought stock GS ones? Upper front arm turnbuckles? If so, you might want to order the Lunsfords now, because the GS ones aren't in improvement. I've broken several on my Storm and SUT and am casually looking around for a better replacement part than stock.

[metalry101]

I'm not necessarily looking for bombproofness so much as a cheaper alternative than buying new arms every time, or the 8 dollar Ti jobber. That's craziness. 8 dollars for one turnbuckle? Plus shipping? That's highway robbery.

[Colt M4]

Metalry101 did RPM say any thing about adressing this problem?

[metalry101]

Dear Ryan,
Those camber rods are made from a high grade 303 stainless steel. They
shouldn't be sheering off. We are looking into some titanium versions but I
don't know if we will be pursuing them at the moment. In addition, I'm
afraid we will not be offering a non-adjustable upper a-arm.
However, I can help you with your camber rods. I can offer you
replacements at $4.00 each, plus $2.00 (regardless of the number of camber
rods wanted) to cover postage to get them back to you. If you would like
some camber rods by themselves, please send either cash or a money order in
the appropriate amount to:

Richard Royall
14978 Sierra Bonita Ln.
Chino, CA 91710

Please do not send a personal check. Once we receive your remittance,
we'll get your camber rods right back to you. I hope this helps.
Take care and thank you for your interest and support of RPM products.
If you have any other questions or comments, please feel free to send us
another e-mail.

That's a copy of what the guy from RPM sent me.

[ALJR]

That's a copy of what the guy from RPM sent me.

why would he want payment made out to him and not the company? seems a little sketchy..

Might want to verify that mailing address, just to be on the safe side..

[metalry101]

It's the guy from RPM's site. I have no doubt that he'd send them to me, but I'm not going to buy them. 4 dollars? No thanks. I found the 5x25's from Lunsford through one of my shop's distributors so I ordered them. I'll let you guys know how the RPM nylon, Lunsford Ti combo holds up as soon as I get it rockin.

Oh...and this XS3 is causing all sorts of problems atm. I'm about ready to run it over with my Jeep.

[doesgo]

Do you have the RS300 or 310? I heard many people are having problems with the 300s and Losi is swapping them for 310s. My 300 has been fine, thankfully.

[metalry101]

300. I have heard that as well, but I dunno if it's my Rx. I don't think it is...but maybe. Maybe I'll give them a call tomorrow. Who do I call? JR, or Losi? Or is it the same "Horizon" phone number? I'm assuming #3?

[metalry101]

Well...apparently it was the reciever, as I pulled it out and slapped one of my R135's in and it all worked perfectly. Hopefully it'll work great again tomorrow if I get a chance to take it out. We shall see...

[Colt M4]

Send it the transmitter and reciever to Horizon hobby they will most likely replace the reicever under the 3-year warranty.

[metalry101]

You're kidding me, right? Send the whole radio in so they can look at it and replace it? I'm gonna have to call them about that...

[Ball Racing]

I sent a broke servo to them, and they sent it back and said, yeap it's broke.
Then it was sent back, and said yeah, I knew that, thats why I sent it.
It's got a 3 year warranty right? anwser yes..
So fix it, answer oh, ok..
I got my new servo...
That was kind of a long way around.......

[fastharry]

why would he want payment made out to him and not the company? seems a little sketchy..

Might want to verify that mailing address, just to be on the safe side..


richard royal owns the company.......he's been helping me on RPM stuff since I started racing HPI products in 96.....a great RC guy to meet in person.also....he's at all the shows,too.....

[Colt M4]

Send all your stuf through your LHS then the shipping is free for you and less hassle. I have never had any trouble with the people at horizon. Usually it is no questions asked.

[ALJR]

richard royal owns the company.......he's been helping me on RPM stuff since I started racing HPI products in 96.....a great RC guy to meet in person.also....he's at all the shows,too.....

There ya have it ;)

Thanks for the update, FH..

[metalry101]

I work at my LHS. I'm not gonna tell my boss to pay for my shipping.

I know it has a 3 year warranty, but sending the whole radio back is a royal PITA, and it means my truck is down for 2 or 3 weeks or however long it takes them to get it, figure out the problem, and ship it back. I can understand shipping the Rx, but not the whole radio. 4 dollars for Priority mail on the Rx vs. 10+ bux to ship the whole radio doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me.

FastHarry~
Thanks for the input on Richard. I wasn't worried at all about sending him the money, but now I know that if I ever get to go to a hobby show I need to meet him. Thanx!

[bpg1978]

I know this off the subject but has anyone beemade aware of the performance of a LST w/ Collari's new 30 engine? It's on ebay for only $189.00. Supposed to put out over 3hp. What a price in comparison to Sirios, etc.

[metalry101]

"Supposed" to be over 3HP. Every one of our customers who bought one has had problems with it. It's fast for sure...but not THAT fast. I'd take my Picco .27 over it any day.

[bpg1978]

So what is...in your (or anyone's ) opinion the best upgrade engine for the LST? I want speed and power! That Sirio 27 pro is as expensive as crap!

[metalry101]

Picco .27.

[alvinm]

I know this is getting redundant but I'm picking up an lst today,are there still issues with*the washer*on recent trucks?I know it doesn't take much to check but I'd rather not if I can avoid it(I guess its something about taking something brand new apart :eek: )Thanks.

[ALJR]

I know it doesn't take much to check but I'd rather not if I can avoid it(I guess its something about taking something brand new apart :eek: )Thanks.

man... you picked the wrong hobby then :cool:

[paulcooper31]

I know this is getting redundant but I'm picking up an lst today,are there still issues with*the washer*on recent trucks?I know it doesn't take much to check but I'd rather not if I can avoid it(I guess its something about taking something brand new apart :eek: )Thanks.
hi i had a prob with my lst with regard to the washer,it ruined my engine but i sent it off to helgar racing and got it back in 2 days(very impressive)and the serial no was 003278.apparently they are ok after that number so my mate said.i am still having probs tuning it though but thats because i am no expert ;)

[doesgo]

My number was in the 9000 range and I still had the washer. I heard the trucks AFTER 13,000 don't have the washer, though.

[alvinm]

ALJR,I don't mind the tinkering I just don't like taking something apart when it hasn't been used yet.I enjoy an occasional breakdown but not right off the bat :mad: I wish some losi exec. would get on here and get a straight answer on this rather then speculating :confused:

[ALJR]

Most of us tear-down the rtr's anyway.. Just to double check the build quality and to build it the "right way" :)

[metalry101]

My number was in the 9000 range and I still had the washer. I heard the trucks AFTER 13,000 don't have the washer, though.

I don't think that's right. I've sold a few LST's lately and both have blown their engines in the first week. One was on the second or third tank, and these are trucks with numbers in the 14,000's. Either the washer problem is still there or Losi has found yet another way to screw up these engines and these trucks.

[doesgo]

LOL! Oh man, that really sucks! I can't believe they don't fix this friggin' problem!

[alvinm]

I don't know anyone who buys a rtr and takes it apart before driving,maybe check some screws here and there but thats it.Thats why they are called rtr's and not kits.Maybe you should have considered the ss 4.6 :rolleyes:

[WorldOfNoise]

If this truck was available in kit form, I would of bought that! But, it's not...
I did a semi tear-down/rebuild before I even fired the thing up. Made shure everything was to spec, found and fixed problems and did some minor upgrades. Imo, working on r/c's is half the fun!

[badboy2]

when u center the steerign servos do u do it one at a time or at the same time ?

[ncgrunt]

I don't think that's right. I've sold a few LST's lately and both have blown their engines in the first week. One was on the second or third tank, and these are trucks with numbers in the 14,000's. Either the washer problem is still there or Losi has found yet another way to screw up these engines and these trucks.

Mine was 14509, I checked for the washer and it was nowhere to be seen... but the conrod blew apart on the 3rd tank. I've heard of several other cases of that happening recently. :rolleyes:

[WorldOfNoise]

when u center the steerign servos do u do it one at a time or at the same time ?
I did mine one at a time, like so;
Turn your radio gear on, make shure that your trim is centre (0)
put the saver on the first one then fit the second one to the other servo-It's ok if it's off by a bit. Adjust it with the trim. It's all about getting them to centre at the same time so they dont fight each other when the wheels aren't turned...
Saves battery and unecessary wear and tear on the servo's motor - hope this helped.

[alvinm]

I haven't looked at mine yet but is there a "Y" harness which connects both steering servos to the receiver?

My buddy picked his lst up a few weeks ago and his motor fell apart after only a few tanks,is this a bad batch of rods or bearings they are sticking in these motors?I haven't cranked mine yet thinking its going to blow.

[doesgo]

Yes, the steering servo cables are soldered together into a Y which plugs into the receiver.

[metalry101]

Mine was 14509, I checked for the washer and it was nowhere to be seen... but the conrod blew apart on the 3rd tank. I've heard of several other cases of that happening recently. :rolleyes:

I know that's exactly what happened to one of the two LST's that blew up. I'm not sure about the other since I haven't ripped into his motor, but since it went at WOT, I wouldn't be surprised if it was the conrod. What a piece of **** engine. Losi needs to find someone else to supply the engine for the truck. If you're lucky and get one of the few out of each hundred that work right it runs great, but otherwise you won't make it through a gallon. What a joke.

[bpg1978]

I just had to juump in on this one. My brand new engine shut down on me after 4th tank during break-in. I opened it up and poured out chunks of metal. Because of my experience breaking in new engines, this concerned me. So I called Horizon, sent it in, and they fixed it. They replaced the piston/sleeve and said that there was an unnecessary washer used in my engine. I was confused too. But it works now.

[twisted]

are any of you guys breaking the input/output shaft in the tranny ?
reason i ask is a buddy broke his on his lst.he wanted to know if tis a problem or a freak thing.

[metalry101]

I've only sold one input shaft to a guy, but I've sold multiple output shafts. They seem to break where the pin goes through in the center. Kinda odd that the massively fat shaft breaks instead of the pin or the gears, but whatever, it's only a $3.50 part if I remember right, and it is easy to fix.

[ncgrunt]

I know that's exactly what happened to one of the two LST's that blew up. I'm not sure about the other since I haven't ripped into his motor, but since it went at WOT, I wouldn't be surprised if it was the conrod. What a piece of **** engine. Losi needs to find someone else to supply the engine for the truck. If you're lucky and get one of the few out of each hundred that work right it runs great, but otherwise you won't make it through a gallon. What a joke.


Yeah, I've been debating on whether or not to just go ahead and replace it. What are the options that are in a decent (say, < $200) price range? The only ones I can think of right offhand are the SH .28, Picco .27, Wasp .28 (IIRC)... but I have basically no experience with big blocks so I have no idea what kind of quality or power any of them are.

It's sick what nitro does to your brain though, I've already spent about $1000 on this truck, only gotten to drive it maybe 10 min, but already have an additional $500 worth of hop ups planned for it :eek:

[doesgo]

DON'T get the Wasp/Diablo/Team Infinity .28, their quality and reliability is VERY questionable.

The Picco .27 is a very good performer, and I'm hearing mostly good things about the SH28, but I have no experience with it.

Oh, and stop adding up your costs! If you then calculate your cost per minute of drive time.....<shudder> :)

[metalry101]

^^^Agreed.

A lot of people are saying good things about the SH28, but I won't buy one because it's sold by Global, which I don't shop at for a lot of the same reasons I don't shop at Wal-Mart.

As for the Picco .27. Ya...that's what's in my truck. It's sick.

[alvinm]

Well I have a 14800 truck and from the looks of it,the motors are blowing with or without the washer. :confused:

[ALJR]

Well I have a 14800 truck and from the looks of it,the motors are blowing with or without the washer. :confused:

probably from U.E.

[1 Bad STi]

Hey everyone. Saw this thread and thought id share.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/SavageMulisha13/shot2.jpg

[metalry101]

Nice pic.

ALJR~
What's U.E.?

[alvinm]

:confused: Nice pic.

ALJR~
What's U.E.?

[doesgo]

Unlimited Engineering?

[ncgrunt]

Is there a rotostart setup that'll fit the Picco .27? I'm really leaning towards getting it after my Mach comes back. That'll probably be a while though, since I was just at the lhs today taking back the XS3 (has a short in it *sigh*) and they said they'd send it back on the same call tag, so I assume the engine hasn't even been shipped back yet. Oh well, I'm gone for the rest of the week so no biggie.

Btw, is anybody using the Proline 23mm hex hubs with their LST? What do you think of 'em?

[ALJR]

UE = User Error!

[Ball Racing]

I've broke 3 out put shafts and broke 3 pins.
I broke One shaft with a ported Mach.
The pins and 2 other shafts are from my Collari 30 that no one on here likes.....

[ncgrunt]

Well, I've heard of about 7 Mach's from 14xxx no. LST's blowing a conrod now. That sounds like a bit more than coincidentaly user error. I know I certainly didn't do anything to cause this kind of failure on mine: http://www.freespaces.com/rccars/lst/pics/pic013.jpg

[doesgo]

UE = User Error!

LOL! I always called it O.E. (operator error).

[alvinm]

I call it M.E=manufacturer error.

[doesgo]

In this case I think I agree, alvinm!