Team Losi LST Monster Truck

[Y2KGTP]

I agree.. thats why truggies should have there own class.. The should have a 1/8 buggy "super-mod" class for the truggies.. The real advantage of the truggie is its center diff, combined with its flat pan chassis (ie; lower center of gravity). That combo allows very aggressive handling through the turns..

It's usually referred to as "unlimited Monster Truck" around here.....basicly the same evolution is going on as when people were running Tamiya Blackfoot's, clod-busters and someone decided to put monster wheels on a RC10 back in the day, and started cleaning up at races :D

[bpg1978]

I'm sure everyone has heard the rumor about Losi coming out with a 1/8 buggy? I hope it's true. I'll get one and race it against the LST. I know, I know. 1/8 buggies win. I get the point. I still like the LST better.

[Y2KGTP]

:D I'm sure everyone has heard the rumor about Losi coming out with a 1/8 buggy? I hope it's true. I'll get one and race it against the LST. I know, I know. 1/8 buggies win. I get the point. I still like the LST better.

I asked Drake about this a few months ago, when I had a XXX-NT, and he said he wished something was in the works.....no current plans


But who really knows......I'd pre-order 1 in a second......just like I did for my JRX2 buggy, when it was anounced.....:D

[bpg1978]

If they do, I hope the design team comes up w/ something truly unique like the LST. Because to me, all 1/8 buggies are quite similar w/ a few exceptions. It's not much more you can change on them. Anyways....back to the LST. I just finished putting team integy silver shock towers, and upper/lower arms on mine. It looks crazy nice w/ the polished silver pipe, diff cases, engine head, and threaded shock bodies. Then I replaced screws w/ red anodized aluminum ones where less strength is required. Switched out the servo horns w/ red aluminum and used adjustable linkages. Threw on some 40 series and yellow springs. Now I need the Ni-Ti gear set, and a crazy engine and I'm good.

[metalry101]

Don't ever hit anything with those pretty Integy parts or they'll just fold in half. Seriously, Integy's stuff is weak. It's pretty for sure, and the price is right, but it's actually less durable than the plastic in most cases. I've seen their shock towers...and wow...I think I could bend that with my hands. I'm not trying to flame...but seriously, there's a reason Integy stuff costs half or a third as much as Hardcore stuff.

[Ball Racing]

Throw away the integy shock towers, I folded mine up in a tank of fuel.
did a back flip from a one foot ramp.
The truck was not even in second gear.
Landed on its top, bent tower in the rear.
next jump landed on the front, bent the front tower.

Put the stock towers back on, and wrecked worse than ever for the next 2 tanks and nothing bent or broke.

Integy shock towers don't have the slot for the sway bars..(dremel work )

[bpg1978]

Dang! That sucks! What a waste. They do look good. I just thought that with mass and weight of this truck, the shock towers HAD to be aluminum. Stronger right? Guess not. Losi knew what they were doing. Well, these towers do have slots for the sway bars, but I had to add spacers to where the sway bar links attach to the lower arms. They weren't extended like the stock arms. Okay, how are the Integy arms? Are Hardcore's parts titanium or aluminum?

[bpg1978]

Whoops. I meant the link on the upper arms. Hey, does anyone have the graphite chassis set? How's it hold up?
I don't bash mine that hard. But if I chose to, would it stand up to it? I know it would lighten it up, but would it really be stronger than stock aluminum?

[Y2KGTP]

Just came in from running the truck a little bit.....

I just can't seem to get the truck to shift into 2nd gear......I tried 5 turns out for both screws on the clutch, but it still won't shift.....

Also, I tried setting the trans to "Low" just to see what it was like.....and it was a pain to get it back to "high"...I had to take the little adjuster apart, and turn the switch with a pair of pliers.....then reassembled the switch.

To me, the Trans seems a bit noisy, almost like the gears have a poor mesh.....is this normal?

I was planning on getting the forward only kit, and wondered if this would help some of my problems.....

[Y2KGTP]

I guess this is what the forward only gears look like, so I assume it removes the reverse gears, and the Hi/low gears as well ?


http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2005pics/LST-Fwd-Only-Conversion.jpg

[doesgo]

Hardcore works with both titanium and aluminum, depending on the part.

[doesgo]

WOW! That sure would lighten things up a bit! I never use the hi/lo thing and rarely use reverse, I might have to look into that! What's the cost?

[bpg1978]

Alot of car designs cut back on rotating mass in the drivetrain for quicker acceleration. Does the change from stock plastic spur/pinion to Ti-Ni coated gears effect it in a substantially negative way?

[metalry101]

WOW! That sure would lighten things up a bit! I never use the hi/lo thing and rarely use reverse, I might have to look into that! What's the cost?

It's like 26 bux.

[Y2KGTP]

But when you roll your truck forward, is it quiet, or do you hear gears meshing?

[Colt M4]

The Forward only tranny makes your truck very fast. Mine will now spin the tires on ashpalt coming out of a turn.

[Y2KGTP]

I'm just going to have to get this forward kit then, as I am not even using reverse now as the servo died, and I have no need for the low gearing.....however it is amusing to see the truck so wheelie happy :D

Most online places seem to be out of stock, until mid august....I guess I may have to check with the ultra "we only charge retail pricing" LHS

[Challenger]

The Forward only tranny makes your truck very fast. Mine will now spin the tires on ashpalt coming out of a turn.

I oval track my LST. How much faster will forward only make it? Are we talking 1 MPH or several? Are you saying it would leave a stock LST sitting in the dust on a straightaway?

Best guess accepted.

[Y2KGTP]

I oval track my LST. How much faster will forward only make it? Are we talking 1 MPH or several? Are you saying it would leave a stock LST sitting in the dust on a straightaway?

Best guess accepted.

It sounds like it....look at all the gears your dropping from the trans....internal rotation decrease, and less weight.....you drop the f/r servo as well :D

[ALJR]

you will gain very little in top speed with the foc kit. its main perpose it to reduce allot of the rotational weight from the trans. (and some over all weight as well).. by reducing the trucks rotational weight (ie, drive train parts), you will improve on the trucks acceleration and braking..

lighter drive train means it will spool-up quicker.. it will also put less stress/strain on the brakes because they will not have to slow down as much rotational weight.. your drivetrian parts will also last longer from the reduced weight..

so with that being said, any improvements would be noticable the most in the lower rpm rang (maybe from idle to half throttle)..

[Colt M4]

Actually it gives you alot more top end I got about 4 more mph on top end and my dad got about 6 because he put the 23 tooth gear on the place wear the input gear is suppose to go and the input gear is only a 22 tooth gear.

[Speedtester]

Like ALJR said your not going to get hardly any more top speed results out of the forward only kit without a gear change. Spoolup with be a bit quicker and there will be less wear and tear on the driveline crap. If you want even more acceleration then switch to the carbon fiber complete kit on ebay for ~$125, get one super servo for the front and switch to smaller tires.


Actually it gives you alot more top end I got about 4 more mph on top end and my dad got about 6 because he put the 23 tooth gear on the place wear the input gear is suppose to go and the input gear is only a 22 tooth gear.

[Y2KGTP]

Forward Only Transmission Conversion Kit: LST

Overview

LST drivers considering competition or simply looking to up their truck’s top speed will want one of these. The resultant reduction in rotating mass within the transmission after installing the conversion is almost like adding cubes to the engine or nitro to the fuel. Each kit includes the necessary gears and shafts, all of which are machined from heat-treated steel. Some get an additional titanium nitride coating. All parts within the kit are sold separately as well.


http://www.teamlosi.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB3130

[Y2KGTP]

Forward Only Transmission Conversion Kit: LST

Overview

LST drivers considering competition or simply looking to up their truck’s top speed will want one of these. The resultant reduction in rotating mass within the transmission after installing the conversion is almost like adding cubes to the engine or nitro to the fuel. Each kit includes the necessary gears and shafts, all of which are machined from heat-treated steel. Some get an additional titanium nitride coating. All parts within the kit are sold separately as well.


http://www.teamlosi.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB3130


My LHS has 4 of these in stock for 26$ (each), so I will be picking up 1 tomorrow :D

[Ball Racing]

Is that 4mph radar tested?
That is a 10% increase in speed.
That means the engine would have to gain about 4,000rpms.

[Y2KGTP]

Just a idea of what of what is different between the standard, and forward only kit:


http://home.comcast.net/~losiracer/trans.jpg

http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2005pics/LST-Fwd-Only-Conversion.jpg

[G-Maxx12]

where can i find complete transmissions for sale and for cheap besides ebay???Also if i buy the tranny casing does the forword only kit come with every thing needed to work?

[Colt M4]

Yes that is a radar test. My uncle is a police officer so he uses his radar gun for me. I also did another test today and I got it to run some what leaner and I got it to hit 50mph. And my dad's is even faster because he dremeled out the inside of the tranny case so he can put the 23 tooth gear on the top instead of the 22 tooth gear. We think his is about 2-3mph faster than mine. And both trucks have stock motors and pipes, steel gear conversion kits.

[ALJR]

where can i find complete transmissions for sale and for cheap besides ebay???Also if i buy the tranny casing does the forword only kit come with every thing needed to work?

you will need to use your stock ball bearings.. as well as the slipper cluth, spur gears and all the other junk no pictured..

[Y2KGTP]

where can i find complete transmissions for sale and for cheap besides ebay???Also if i buy the tranny casing does the forword only kit come with every thing needed to work?

Ebay is prob your best bet...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Team-Losi-Transmission-for-LST-RC-Truck_W0QQitemZ5988989841QQcategoryZ34063QQrdZ1QQc mdZViewItem


This might be good for the rest of the parts....

[Ball Racing]

Your leaner tune up may have be what was making the stock tranny seem slow.
Everydays weather will require a differnt tune.
So unless you did the radar test on the same day with the stock tranny-then the foward only-
thens it's out the window that it gained 4mph...

I'm not trying to fight but it's the way to make the results seem reality... :) ;)

[Speedtester]

I agree with ya 100%. The rotating mass with have near no affect on the overall high rpm power. I do agree that it will spoolup faster and have more snap.



Your leaner tune up may have be what was making the stock tranny seem slow.
Everydays weather will require a differnt tune.
So unless you did the radar test on the same day with the stock tranny-then the foward only-
thens it's out the window that it gained 4mph...

I'm not trying to fight but it's the way to make the results seem reality... :) ;)

[doesgo]

There certainly are a lot of frictional losses with all those gears meshing in the tranny, and lower weight also CAN make for a faster truck (less rolling resistance, for instance). 4mph faster? Seems like a lot, but a slight increase wouldn't suprise me.

[Monsterbrad]

This tranny in this truck is crazy any ways!
It seems a little gravely when its new.
My first truck was bad this one is not that much better but they seem to hold up ok.

[Colt M4]

The 4mph faster was when it was running against my dad's stock LST without the conversion and plus I don't think any stock LST no matter how lean it is, is going to hit 50mph.

[Monsterbrad]

More engine might help that out!
But I am thinking that it will need a screaming 21 to get it there and then it will lose the crazy torque that makes it so fun to drive!

[bpg1978]

From what is being said in general, going w/ a forward only conversion is simply part of the race-bred formula. The swap of the 22 and 23 tooth gears, the doing away of the reverse servo WILL help on a competitive level. Quicker acceleration and top speed. The slight change in gear ratio alone doesn't require
the engine to push higher rpm's in order to increase top speed. You want more speed out of the Mach26? Change the ratio of the spur and pinion. And stick w/ plastic for nice snap. Why don't they offer Kevlar spur/pinion gears? Or carbon graphite arms/towers? Anyways, go w/ graphite chassis kit, and titanium turnbuckles and you have a faster top end truck.

[Y2KGTP]

I bought the forward only kit, as my F/R servo died, and I have no need for the Low/high gears in the trans.....saves a little weight, and eliminates things I just don't need on the truck. 1 less servo draining the battery pack is a plus as well......If I get a little better acceleration, or top end, it's just a bonus.....

[Monsterbrad]

I can say that the FOC kit for this truck does make it slightly faster but I have not seen a stocker go up against a stocker.
I will here once mine is back together and its broke in.
Me and Kris are going to race them and see what happens

[Cain]

Hey all,

I am seriously considering purchasing the LST.

Few quick questions.

1. What are the common breakage issues?

2. Are there any issues with the engines?

3. What is the best fuel to use for the stock engine?

4. What do I need to mount up some racing bowties?

I think that is about it.

Thanks.

[bpg1978]

Some of the weaker points on this truck are the driveshafts, diff cases, and maybe the upper/lower arms (like any other car) depending on how crazy you drive it. Engine problems are probably still being weeded out. Look at previous threads and check out complaints and problems w/blown engines. Fuel type? To get the most out of this beast, myself and others I know use 30%. Nothing is wrong w/20%. But this engine can handle 30%. Just watch your settings and you're good. The brand is up to you. I use Trinity Platinum. Others may use O'Donnel. Wheels/tires? Totally up to you. For racing, Bowties are the happening thing, on 40 series rims. Some upgrade the hex size but it's not a must-do. If you're not racing but just having fun, throw on whatever the heck you want. Losi also offers a good race tire that fits stock rims. Just go get a LST.....and have fun. Upgrade when something breaks. Just have fun breaking it! Get one!!!

[Speedtester]

I've never been happier with any r/c I've bought before. I have a early #2150 truck and had great luck with it so far.

Things broke so far.

1. 2 Upper arms, one freak one over a small jump and one fence hit.
2. 1 servo saver (no biggy)
3. One drive axle (1st gen axles sucked) Called Losi and they sent me 2 new cvd assemblys.
4. One fuel tank, when a Revo T-boned me.

I think thats it, Diff's look good as new and never had an issue with the cracked cases but I've replaced them anyways with steel ones. I've also moved up to the RPM arms, they are so much tougher. I've never had an issue with my motor. Took it apart when I got it checked for metal shavings (non) and romoved the troublesome washer.

I usally only run Odonnells Fuel with some aftermarket Klotz oil in it also. I've run standard t-maxx bowties with non-offsetted rims. These make the truck so much more snappy and makes jumps hella easier.



Hey all,

I am seriously considering purchasing the LST.

Few quick questions.

1. What are the common breakage issues?

2. Are there any issues with the engines?

3. What is the best fuel to use for the stock engine?

4. What do I need to mount up some racing bowties?

I think that is about it.

Thanks.

[bpg1978]

Yeah, unfortunately, my engine fell apart on the 4th tank due to "an unnecessary washer" as Losi put it. I've had one axle break a pin and that's it so far. I have a #4000 series truck. It's been tough. I upgraded as much stuff as I could to aluminum just cause I love the look and added strength. But it's not at all necessary. RPM arms is just fine. And they're adjustable up top so that's cool. Not to mention $cheap$ as crap. Any other upgrades besides the ones mentioned previously are strictly optional. This is the best truck ever made! Quote me on that.

[metalry101]

Hey all,

I am seriously considering purchasing the LST.

Few quick questions.

1. What are the common breakage issues?

2. Are there any issues with the engines?

3. What is the best fuel to use for the stock engine?

4. What do I need to mount up some racing bowties?

I think that is about it.

Thanks.
#1
If you're a clean driver, you probably won't break anything. However, accidents do happen. The stock diff cases are junk. Go for aluminum immediately. It's only 10 bux for each end of the truck, and it solves the problem once and for all...so it's a true no brainer. Other than that, the stock a-arms aren't very strong. RPM makes the best IMO. If you want bombproof, buy the RPM arms, immediately throw the stainless steel upper turnbuckle in the trash, and use a Lunsford 5x40 titanium rod for the upper camber link. That's seriously bombproof. Some people have a problem with knuckles, but I have yet to break one, even with some hard core abuse and some terrible landings from big, big air.

#2
The stock engine sucks. If it runs, it makes good power, better than any other RTR engine by a fair margin. However, they do tend to blow up for no apparent reason. Honestly, there are enough people who think that the Mach is the greatest engine ever for the price that I'd suggest pulling it out and putting it on Ebay. You should get 80-100 bux out of it easily. Then you can put that money towards a motor that doesn't have the reliability problems that the Mach has. My personal reccomendation would be a Picco .27, but the HPI K4.6 is also a solid choice.

#3
Of course Dynamite says that Blue Thunder is the best fuel for the engine, but they are a bit biased aren't they? Personally, I run Odonnel RTR fuel in everything. 20% in small blocks and 30% in big blocks. It's quality, it's clear, and it's not too pricey. The RTR fuel also has a lot of oil, which means a little less power, but better lubrication, even if I run the engine a little lean. I like that since I'm not the world's greatest tuner.

#4
The LST runs the industry standard 14mm hexes, so all you need are Bow-Ties and rims. However, the LST is a rather heavy beast...so... MGT owners have long complained that 40 series dish wheels are too weak to handle the stress that something as big and heavy as an MGT (even trimmed down for racing) can put on them. They flex and warp and eventually break. Seeing as the LST is just as big, and just as heavy as an MGT, I would assume that this is true for it as well, so I would suggest the 23mm wheels, as I believe they're beefed up everywhere, not just at the hub. This is even an option if you want to run the old-school, standard size Bow-Ties, as Pro-Line does offer the Velocity dish wheel in a standard size with the 23mm hex.

[bpg1978]

But I would say that 23mm wheels are not a MUST-HAVE if you're just trying to have the essentials. I haven't heard of that being a major problem amongst LST owners. If you want the EXTRA strength and security, cool. You then have to buy the tool. And maybe upgrade the axles since people have said that it puts more strain on them. My normal 40 series wheels hold up real good. Maybe the suspension is better adapt on the LST, soaking up more of the beating than the wheels do. But it is something worth looking into. That's just my experience. Maybe I just don't want to throw away or sell all my 14mm wheels/tires.

[metalry101]

It's the horizontal load that the heavier truck places on the wheels that's so hard on them, not the vertical load. When you rail a corner with a lot of traction you've got that much more truck pushing on those rims, making them want to flex and eventually break. The hub doesn't have as much to do with that as the bracing inside of the wheel, but from what I've seen, the 23mm wheels seem to be better braced internally, and therefore probably considerably more capable of dealing with the stress put on them by very heavy trucks.

[Cain]

Thanks for all the info guys. I am looking at possibly buying one of these used but if the engine appears to be an issue, may just buy one new and sell it out right. How much do those other recommended engines go for?

Also, where do you look to find out what numbered LST you have?

[Speedtester]

There should be a small sticker with the # on the front radio box. If I remember correctly it was on the left side of mine before I stuck it in my manual.


Thanks for all the info guys. I am looking at possibly buying one of these used but if the engine appears to be an issue, may just buy one new and sell it out right. How much do those other recommended engines go for?

Also, where do you look to find out what numbered LST you have?

[Cain]

I have narrowed it down to either the LST or the TNX Pro, and if I don't do a monster vehicle probably will get a Mayhem or Hyper 7 .

Thanks again!

[metalry101]

Quality replacement big blocks go anywhere from 130-500. The Picco .27 is around 180, the HPI 4.6 is 200. The least expensive engine that I can think of that's supposed to be very good stuff is the Hyper .21 8 port. I don't know if I'd suggest that engine for this truck since it's a buggy engine, but if you lightened the truck up enough it'd do fine.

I think you've narrowed it down to two great trucks...personally, I would also highly suggest checking out the MGT, especially with the 4.60 version coming out. I think the MGT, TNX, and LST are the three best trucks on the market for all around usage. I have an LST and MGT, and will be getting a TNX Pro if I can ever find some money.

[Monsterbrad]

I have the MGT and I can say you have to do too much to them to race them.
Its a great basher truck excellent for that matter much stronger then the LST but bunches slower without a gearing and motor change.
My MGT and LST run the same and have the same engine!
Engine's are hard to make up your mind on which one to get cause there are so many out there.
I have the 4.6 in my race truck and its been great so far.
The Mach is a good engine but they discontinued it and have there new 28 out also!
So be looking for the new LST with a 28 in it like everybody else is doing!

[umquat]

Just went to the Losi website. There is a backend shot that shows what look like steering linkages in the rear. I think it is 4ws and not 2 servos for the front.

Just checked out the manual on the Losi site. If you look at the page on chassis construction you'll see two servos, each with a servo saver. One servo for each wheel and a link bar between them to keep the whole lot in alignment. Guess a single servo just wasnt man enough.. After all it looks like a fairly serious piece of kit with a lot of weight and a decent turn of speed.

[bpg1978]

They discontinued the Mach26, huh? It is, was, a good engine. I guess too much bad publicity. Dynamite might as well redeem themselves and go bigger. Why in the heck would you want 4 wheel steering? Won't that make it less stable on straightways? It already turns on a dime. I guess it'll be good for rock crawling or some crap. Anyways, I guess I'll just sell my Mach26, and go cop a big dawg. With a new LST w/28 hitting the streets, I be caught dead w/ the "small one".

[bpg1978]

I mean I WON'T be caught dead with the "small one". I'm scared to go buy one now because the competition is so fierce to have the best one. Companies bring out a newer and bigger one every other month or so. At a time, I almost bought the Diablo 28, since it's horsepower rated higher than every other one besides Sirio 27, late last year. Collari, HPI, Sirio, Peak Racing, SH, Orion, Picco, and whoever else. Who's next w/ a big block....O.S.?

[LST Nut]

Hey Guys,

I sure could use some help trying to figure out how to keep it running once I give it a little gas. I figured out that the raw gas pouring out of the exhaust pipe was preventing it from starting in the first place. leaned the idle adjustment and got it to at least start. Now, as soon as I give it a little gas, it starts to move and then kills. I am thinking too rich on the high speed mixture but don't know.

I did find that it took quite a bit of engine rev before it actually engaged the drive. Is that normal? I figured that once the it came off an idle that it would start to move forward slowly.

If there is a website that answers these questions, please let me know I'll be glad to look it up so no one has to retype it. Thanks,

Brad

[bpg1978]

It's very rich right now. I'm assuming it's not broke in. So adjust the low end, at 1/8 turn increments until you can get a decent idle. At the same time, making sure your idle screw is adjusted right. You may have to leave the glow igniter on the glow plug. It'll still run rich(w/ gas spitting out of exhaust) but it needs to. You need to face your truck up against an unmoving object like a wall and let it idle through(my opinion) 2 tanks. And right before it runs out of gas, stop it. Or else, it'll over rev and maybe cause damage. Somebody finish this, or help him out.

[bpg1978]

Hey, LST Nut, this is some info. I found on the net. Check it out.
The idle screw:                 The easiest adjustment on the carb, the idle screw controls the car's idle speed. It limits how far the carb can close it's intake gap. Tightening the screw widens the gap and increases idle speed. The idle screw should be set so that the car sits still or slowly creeps forward in idle.
The high-end needle:     The high-end needle is the most often adjusted needle. It regulates fuel flow to the engine at all times. Adjusting the high-end needle effects the engines entire RPM range, including top speed and acceleration.
The low-end needle:     The low-end needle adjusts the fuel flow during idle and low RPM. Adjusting the low-end needle has no effect on top speed.
 
Why should you  break an engine in? Failure to break-in your engine will cause damage to your piston and sleeve and the engine will eventually be difficult to start. The first few minutes of the life of the engine are it's most critical.
You should always follow the break-in procedures that are included with your engine. This guide is to be used as an additional supplement to the manufacturer's procedure.
Before you start, ensure that your glo-igniter, radio, and receiver pack all have fresh or fully charged batteries. You should also have at least two extra glo-plugs, a new bottle of 20% nitro fuel, and a fairly large area to run in. It is also helpful to have a friend around to assist you.
Engines usually have between one and three needle valves on the carb. Nearly all cars carried by Hobby Haven have two needles, and that is what will be covered in this guide. If your engine does not have two needles, the break-in required may be slightly different from these instructions.
Before beginning this process, be sure to read the manual included with the engine along with  this guide. Also, locate the  low-end needle. It will usually be set for break-in from the factory, but be sure that it is set properly.
In order to start your engine, you may need to prime the carb. The easiest way to prime an engine in by placing your finger over the exhaust hole in the tuned pipe (the 'stinger') and turning the engine over until you see fuel shoot up the line from the tank to the carburetor. Be careful not to over-prime the engine because it could result in flooding.
If the engine does flood, or hydro-lock, remove the glo-plug and turn the engine over while the car is upside-down. This should clear the excess fuel from the combustion chamber.
Most pre-built car engines come with a pull-starter. Be sure not to pull the starter cord out more than eight inches. If the engine doesn't start in 10-15 pulls, stop to check for the cause. If the glo-plug is good, the engine should at least "pop" and sound like it wants to start. If your engine is getting plenty of fuel through the carb and it still won't start, try turning the low-end needle in 1/8th of a turn and try again. If you try this process a few times, and the engine still doesn't start, try a new glo-plug (even if your current one looks fine). When the engine starts, it should still be very rich.
If your engine is running at fairly high RPM or if you do not see fuel and oil coming from the exhaust when you 'blip' the throttle, the engine is probably too lean. Turn the low-end needle out until the engine is running very rich. Remember that carb adjustments do not take effect instantly. Allow 20-30 seconds for the change.
How to break-in your engine:
After you have the engine started and running fairly rich, drive your model back and forth at about half throttle. Do this for the first four tanks of fuel and be sure to keep an eye on the engine temperature. It should be hot but not hot enough to boil water on the head. If you have a temp gun, run your engine at about 180-200 deg.  After each tank, let the engine cool to room temperature.
Repeat this process for the fifth and final tank (you may break-in for more than six tanks, but it is usually not necessary). Now, before the fifth tank of fuel, you may want to lean the high-end needle 1/8th of a turn. 
NOTE: You may want to move the piston to the bottom of the sleeve while cooling. This will give the engine more compression after it is broken-in, making it harder to turn over, but it will also increase the power of the engine. To put the piston at the bottom of the sleeve, turn the flywheel 1/2 a rotation from full compression.

[Monsterbrad]

Well here is my 2 cents worth on the break in thing!
Over rated is all I can say.
I have had a bunch of new engines the last year or so as some of you have noticed I change models alot! :)
All I can say is I run the engine up to 200 degree's 5 or six times really quick and then shut them down put the piston at bottome dead center and leave it sit till the engine is outside temp!
Once that is done I tune for power!
I have had no problems with this method and I was told by an engine builder that running the thing rich just wears the sleeve out quicker!
I have a 4.6 28 with almost 2 gallons through it and my buddy has a Mach with almost 5 gallons through it broke in this way with no issues.
I race my 4.6 every weekend and the my Mach that I have gets the crap pounded outa it every week in my MGT!
The LST is still waiting for the engine to be installed!
Tomorrow I hope :)

[LST Nut]

Thanks guys, It got a little too late to try it tonight but maybe tomorrow. I have been trying to figure out which adjustments are where. I know the High speed needle, with no problem. But there appears to be an idle mixture and an idle stop. The directions say to adjust the hi speed first, the idle stop second, and the idle mixture last. Seems backwards to me. Which one is on the arm that moves?

I have to say, being involved with cars for quite a while, I was taught that running an engine rich, or reving a hot engine right after coming off the track scrubs the cylinder walls by dumping too much fuel into the cylinders for it to burn, probably causing wear similar to what was described as sleeve wear.

I'll try it the way most people say to do it this time, but I like the quick method for trying next time.

One other question about the idling against a wall. Why? Mine wouldn't start running until the engine reved quite a bit so I think there is zero chance of it going anywhere. Am I wrong on this?

Later,

Brad

[Ball Racing]

The sleeve wear is not from rich fuel settings alone (since it carries the oil)
But from the motor never being able to reach the temp that the sleeve will expand enough for the piston not to be rubbing hard.

Also the the rich setting can be hard on the rod bushings since you are trying to compress such a great volume into the combustion chamber..

[bpg1978]

The against the wall thing is so, because I don't stand there waiting for the first 2 tanks to finish. It takes so long that I walk away and come back to it before it finishes each tank. As the piston/sleeve begins to wear, slight adjustments may be needed to the high needle to keep it running and the truck can begin to creep forward. Thus, the wall thing. Extra security, that's all. And I agree w/monsterbrad, there are various ways nd methods that may work. The main objective is to CAREFULLY expand and contract the piston/sleeve. A slow wear/break in and an adaption to 200° + of heat is the intention. So take your time. Engines cost too much to destroy it, or shorten its life.

[Monsterbrad]

I just think that the break in thing os over rated thats all.
You have to figure these little engine's idle at 5000 rpm's and thats a ton.
I feel the faster you get that sleeve up to temp the better it will temper and hold the pinch!

[LST Nut]

Great input! If I get hooked as bad as it feels like I've been snagged, I try the quick method of breaking it in on my next engine. :D Since I've been dealing with electrics for so long, this will be a delight. But I'm sure soon, there will be a need for more speed! Thanks again.


Brad

[Monsterbrad]

another quick note for the break in
spray a little wd-40 down the glow plug hole and the carb before starting a new engine also.
Just helps that pre pinch get a little lube.
Good luck with your new engine and truck.
Keep us posted how you like it!

[LST Nut]

This truck is fun! I finished the break in today, and drove it a tiny bit, rather slowly at the very tail end of the second tank. I had to lean the high speed mixture by 1 and a half turns. I guess living below sea level seriously changes the setting from the factory.

Can you guys give me a running temp to shoot for? Correct me if I am wrong, but I should try to keep it near that particular temp by varying the high speed mixture. Thanks again.

Brad

[Challenger]

Actually it gives you alot more top end I got about 4 more mph on top end and my dad got about 6 because he put the 23 tooth gear on the place wear the input gear is suppose to go and the input gear is only a 22 tooth gear.

This seems noteworthy and worth a try.

Thanks!!

[Colt M4]

Challenger did you buy a FOC kit.

[Monsterbrad]

Shoot for around 200 220
No more then 270.
Almost all engine's even the same brand will run better at different tempetures.
THe FOC kit will make this truck faster.
Me and my bud did one just by taking gears out and plugging the holes.
It's awesome spins the tires on dry pavement way more then stock.

[Colt M4]

Has anybody tried different pipes on your LST? and if so which ones? I am pretty interested in the Jammin JP-1 and the Vantage BU120L.

[Monsterbrad]

colt
go for the Jammin JP-2 if you are going to put that pipe on the Mach!
THe 1 version is for torque and as you know this enigine does not need anymore of that.
The carbon fiber I have heard mixed reviews on cause they don't take any of the heat away from the engine like the standard aluminum pipes do.
The Mach runs pretty good the way it is stock.
I have seen a few run with different pipes on them but I don't know what kind they are running and they don't seem any faster then stock.

[Colt M4]

So putting a different pipe on there won't give you that much more performance?

[bpg1978]

Monsterbrad.........You know how to convert the stock transmission into the forward only one? Is it efficient? Well than, why should anyone buy the conversion kit? And...how in the heck do you do it? Please let me know.

[Monsterbrad]

Changing the pipe in my opinion will not change that much.
Also the forward only thing!
All we did was look at the pics of the one that you buy and make it look like that one.
All you do is take all the gears out and have the ones in it like the picture and plug all the holes.
Yes it is faster with all that gearing and weight taken out.
As far as the MPH difference I am not really sure.
Mine is almost running so I can give you a stock and stock with the FOC kit drag race soon.

[Ball Racing]

Hotter exhaust gases actually scavage out better.
The pipe wasn't taking heat out the motor,
but heat out the exhaust gases.

Thats why in the car world that put header wraps on , and jet - coat ceramic coating etc.

If the tuned pipe is cooler on the outside that means all the btu's are coming out the stinger... good thing....

[bpg1978]

Changing the pipe in my opinion will not change that much.
Also the forward only thing!
All we did was look at the pics of the one that you buy and make it look like that one.
All you do is take all the gears out and have the ones in it like the picture and plug all the holes.
Yes it is faster with all that gearing and weight taken out.
As far as the MPH difference I am not really sure.
Mine is almost running so I can give you a stock and stock with the FOC kit drag race soon.

So there is no difference between the modified stock trans. and the FOC?

[Cain]

Hey all. I am going to be an LST owner!

I got a few questions on some support things to purchase:

1. Is the duratrax temp gauge any good?

2. Do you need specific foam oil to oil the foam filter?

3. What foam filter brands will work on the LST Mach engine?

4. What is a must have upgrade on the LST and the part #

5. If I want to run 40 size tires, what do I need exactly to do this without the proline conversion?

6. Do I need a fuel filter, if so, what brands are good?

7. What is the preferred fuel to use, Right now I am looking at blue thunder.

8. What failsafe is a good one to purchase and use?

9. What glow plug should be used with the stock engine?

Thanks!

[bpg1978]

Duratrax temp gage?....perfect(I use one)
It doesn't matter which foam filter oil you use, they're all good.
Foam filter?.....dynamite, O.S.,ofna,hpi, they're all good. Make sure you get 1/8. K&N's is off the hook.
Must have upgrade.....alloy diff cases. Everything else is based on your driving style to be honest. Just see what breaks most often...like arms, driveshafts, turnbuckles,etc.
It comes w/fuel filter. Dynamite style, large capacity.
Fuel?.....Blue thunder,O'donnel, Trinity monster, platinum, traxxas, lightning....it's up to you. I do Trinity platinum, but I'm switching to O'donnel because it's more accessible out here. Both good.
I use a Dynamite failsafe. They have a new, tiny one out now. but Ofna is cool too.
Use the same plug that comes w/engine. Don't remember it's number, but it is a Dynamite glow plug.

[Challenger]

Challenger did you buy a FOC kit.

Not yet, but I think I might, maybe today.

[Cain]

What do you guys think of the traxxas fuel? Seems that and blue thunder are what is carried local and on the www.lstcentral.com board I have heard of issues with blue thunder. Anyone running that fuel?

I went ahead and ordered the duratrax fail safe and the duratrax temp gauge. I will plickup some after run oil and filter oil local or when I am in my in-laws home town ( they have a real hobby shop there ).

Mine is coming with a pull starter installed, what do I need to order if I want to go back to the shaft start?

[metalry101]

If you want to convert it to shaft start, buy it off of me. It'll cost a lot less.

As for Traxxas fuel..it's good stuff. Lotza oil, which is good, means even if you screw up the tuning and run it a bit lean, it'll still be well lubricated.

The best air filter is the Motorsavers unit. It's 23 bux if you get the one packaged by Motorsavers...or 18 bux if you buy the exact same one packaged by HPI for the Savage.

I use McCoy MC-9 plugs in all of my big blocks. Dynamite suggests the MC-59, which is a hot plug...but mine ran great on a cold plug...which is what almost all big blocks need/want when using 30% nitro.

[Cain]

how much are you talking? All I need it appears is a replacement backplate, I got all the other stuff like the starting wand, etc.

[metalry101]

If you've already got the box and the wand and such then nevermind. That doesn't do me any good without a backplate. I thought you needed it all. I think the backplate is only 10 bux or something.

[markanda]

What other engines are you LST owners using that incorporated the MACH starting system if any ? It took over ten gallons and my stock mach has died.....

[Monsterbrad]

I have not personally seen any!
I was having a hell of a time getting the truck to shift.
Took the spur gears off and the slipper was full of oil and the 2 speed is outa wack.
Had to re-adjust.
Have not had time to run it again yet.
Have to get to the hobby shop and get some nitro cleaner for the slipper discs.

[alvinm]

What other engines are you LST owners using that incorporated the MACH starting system if any ? It took over ten gallons and my stock mach has died.....

The sh .28 will work with it.You need a little elbow grease to get the holes to align on the back plate and east start.

[LST Nut]

I could seriously use some help with the needle settings for my new LST. I managed to get 2 full tanks through it with it being very rich, and keeping the temp just below 200. I had to cut the idle mixture to about 1.5. After that, I got about 2 laps around the back yard, never at full throttle before running out of tuning time.

Today, I can't get it to run for more than half a second after giving it some gas. I have tried richening it, and leaning it, but neither works. My current high speed setting is about 1.5 turns open. Can anyone give me some advice on how to set them, or where to read about it? I think this truck is awesome but I wish I could keep it running. Thanks,

Brad

[fordracer]

What other engines are you LST owners using that incorporated the MACH starting system if any ? It took over ten gallons and my stock mach has died.....



check werks racing .com they have a .30 and a .32 with roto start

[Monsterbrad]

I could seriously use some help with the needle settings for my new LST. I managed to get 2 full tanks through it with it being very rich, and keeping the temp just below 200. I had to cut the idle mixture to about 1.5. After that, I got about 2 laps around the back yard, never at full throttle before running out of tuning time.

Today, I can't get it to run for more than half a second after giving it some gas. I have tried richening it, and leaning it, but neither works. My current high speed setting is about 1.5 turns open. Can anyone give me some advice on how to set them, or where to read about it? I think this truck is awesome but I wish I could keep it running. Thanks,

Brad
ok here is what I can tell you to do.
First bottom out both needles all the way very slowly and carefully.
Then
go to the manual and set them back to factory setting's
try this and let us know what happens.
if you need more help here is my email
ExExCR@aol.com
I will give you my number and you can call me if you want and I can try to help out more if needed.
Hope this works for ya Brad

[Colt M4]

Anybody buy the RPM gear cover yet? I bought one looks great and covers up all the places where rocks could get in. It is defiantly alot better than stock and still way better than the lexan secondary cover.

[Speedtester]

I've seen it advertised but couldnt find it anywhere as of last week. I'll check rcmart and ebay in a few and pick one up.

Anybody buy the RPM gear cover yet? I bought one looks great and covers up all the places where rocks could get in. It is defiantly alot better than stock and still way better than the lexan secondary cover.

[twistedtrik]

tower has them in stock. i am getting ready to order one shortly. :D

[Cain]

I had a similar issue when breaking in my engine. I stopped by LHS and he showed me some tricks on how to properly fire up the engine, especially since I only have a pull starter on mine. Once I got it fired up and had to richen it up more than before it really put the power down.

I basically went to a new glow plug, pinched the line on fire up which really worked well for some reason (got this from the LHS owner ) and had to really richen up my high speed settings from the stock setting to keep it in the 220 range but it really put out some power.

[doesgo]

I mean I WON'T be caught dead with the "small one". I'm scared to go buy one now because the competition is so fierce to have the best one. Companies bring out a newer and bigger one every other month or so. At a time, I almost bought the Diablo 28, since it's horsepower rated higher than every other one besides Sirio 27, late last year. Collari, HPI, Sirio, Peak Racing, SH, Orion, Picco, and whoever else. Who's next w/ a big block....O.S.?

Yes! O.S. has a .30 out (or coming out very soon) in Japan, and bigger yet are the Collari and Racer's Edge .32s!

[Monsterbrad]

Just remember that the bigger the displacement the less rpm range the engine has.
I have heard of some over revving problems with these bigger engines and stretched rods and that.
But the .30 will be a torque monster I would think.

[Monsterbrad]

My rebuilt Mach that I got from horizon lasted about 2 tanks after break in then the rod bearing went again.
Sucks but they are replacing it again.
THe nice weather is comming to a close here in PA so the LST might not even get dirty.
oh well keeps it nice

[Mongoose420]

Monsterbrad

You race at erie rc raceway at all? Im gonna head up there on a offroad practice day and check it out. I'll either have a pretty stock tmaxx or a pretty stock whooped look'n tmaxx lol. Depends on if i take up the clapper im rebuilding or my nicer one.

[Jackyl]

Is there a truggy chassis for the lst? I saw something in the new RC rag and I thought that it said that it was for the lst? Is this true or is it something else?

[Monsterbrad]

The rc erie race way is interesting you will see what I mean when you get there.
The LST is not a truggy!!!
It's a monster truck with a tranny.
I race truggy every weekend with my LSP which is the Hot Bodies Lightning stadium pro.
The LST should not be raced with this class.
LST = Monster truck class

[fordracer]

well its time for a new motor 2 gal. of fuel and the con rod came though the block.

[bpg1978]

well its time for a new motor 2 gal. of fuel and the con rod came though the block.

Welcome to the club. Send it back and wait for a new one. It's a good engine, just not goof proof brand new. But definitely worth fixing. Hey, don't buy the team integy shock towers! They suck! Flipped over during take off and bent the rear one. They garbage!!! Keep the stock ones or go w/a different manufacturer. But I just bought the Collari 32. It's on!

[fordracer]

hows the collari ran a fellow lst racer order the 30 but hasn't got yet

[Ball Racing]

That engine just burns too much fuel.
It needs too run warm to run strong..
It runs so rich when cool that it will smoke up the whole yard :)

When you have it leaned down, and up to temp it breaks up parts,
but running cool, and rich it is slower than stock, and hardly shifts into second....

But as I said, when warm and lean HOLD ON!

It has so much more mid range thrust it's crazy,
but I can't say that it has as any more or as much top end as the mach..

[Monsterbrad]

Mach engines are having reall problems here
I blew up the second one after only 2 tanks after break in.
It started to make strange noises then came apart like the first one.
Called them they are going to get me another one as soon as they get mine and see what happened.
It spun the rod bearing again for the second time.
They said that they are having problems with this and are trying to correct it.
It's too bad cause the Mach is a good power engine for a cheap price.
But like the old saying goes "You get what you pay for"!

[bpg1978]

Are you (Ballracing) refering to the .30 or .32?

[bpg1978]

Monsterbrad, that's a shame, that they didn't get it right the second time. That engine is tight, when right. When you get it back, sell it on ebay and buy a Collari 30+ or a Sirio 30. Or just keep sending it back. Again, it's good when working right.

[Cain]

Anyone can write out how to properly put back on the drill start backplate assembly? My warranty engine came back with a pull starter on and as this is my first nitro vehicle, any help to get to the drill start again and save my fingers would be most appreciated.

[Colt M4]

Take out the phillips screws holding the pull start on. Then stick a flat head screwdriver behide the pull starter to keep the spring from shooting out. Set the pull starter aside. Make sure you don't lose the little spring. Put the little spring into the hole in the hex. Set the metal starter cup inside the plastic cover with the ball bearing on it. Next put the plastic spacer back in with the indent facing outwards. Next put the drill assembly back on. Make sure the little spring is in both indents. Then put the phillips screws back in and your finished.

[metalry101]

Monsterbrad, that's a shame, that they didn't get it right the second time. That engine is tight, when right. When you get it back, sell it on ebay and buy a Collari 30+ or a Sirio 30. Or just keep sending it back. Again, it's good when working right.
When it's working right it's great???????

Why is everyone defending the Mach. LST owners are having their engines blow up left and right, but people keep saying, "It's a great engine for the price!" That's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. It blows up more often than it runs. I don't care if it makes 30 horsepower, if it blows up that often then it's obviously not a good engine. The ones that don't blow up are generally good, but you can't just ignore the other half that do blow up. Everyone agrees that the Pinto was a lousy car because it blew up if it got rearended. Just because some Pintos didn't get rear ended doesn't mean that they were good cars.

[Cain]

I guess how good an engine is percieved is relative to if you have had any issues with the engine. I have had no issues with my Mach, but, I have driven it very little. For what I have driven it, the power was amazing. But, if it goes poof the next time I use it, I will probably avoid the engine in the future and go with something else.

The good thing at least is no one has been hurt, and it is being warrantied.

[nitro lover]

I looked through the thread the best I could. I hope this topic hasn't already been discussed. I have about 8 tanks through my LST. I was running it on Sunday and at one point hit a curb head on. The carb stuck wide open. I was close by so I got it shut down pretty quick. At first I thought it was the servo but when I disconected the linkage for the carb I noticed it was the carb slide that was stuck open. I really had to push hard to get it unstuck. I then noticed that it does not slide to smoothly. Even with the servo travel adjusted to 125% it only opens all the way 1/2 the time. It gets to near open but not full. I guess that would explain why some times it ran real good, like it was about to run out of gas, compared to the rest of the time. Anyone had these problems? Is there an easy fix? I called horrizon and they said send it in but I hate to be without a carb for a week or 2. Thanks!

[fuzzy1]

I just placed an order with my lhs for an LST. Has Losi installed an updated version of the Mach 26 engine to prevent future failures? How will I know if the truck I receive is the latest and greatest? Or do I just accept the fact that I have a 50/50 chance of this thing blowing up?

[metalry101]

What I would do is buy the truck, immediately pull the engine, and sell it on Ebay. There are enough people who like the motor that you should be able to get about 100 bux out of it. Then buy a Picco .27 and have the time of your life! :)

[bpg1978]

Metalry101......I say that it's a great engine when working right because it is. Everyone who didn't have to go through the process of sending theirs back would agree. And some who went through it, like myself, still agrees. Sorry for your aggrevation but not every engine had the problem unlike every "Pinto". The Traxxas 2.5 was declared the best engine at a time. But how many folks had a hard time getting that little thing tuned properly to run without overheating. The Mach 26 is a RTR engine also, and for that, it is impressive. If Losi could do it all over, they surely would have done more testing but it's a good try.
Hey nitro lover.....
It sounds like you bent the carb somehow, or something is deformed. It should never be rough to slide back and forth the carb slide. Just send it back and be patient for the return. It's not worth spending money if you don't have to. Use it on upgrades or future damage. What is two weeks? We still have plenty of beautiful days left to run them.
And fuzzy1.....
Find out what it is that is going wrong w/ the engine (mine was an extra washer) take it apart and inspect it. Fix it beforehand rather than after it blows, if something is incorrect. It won't void the warranty just doing that. Or you can call Horizon and check the status of your truck's engine using the production number.

[metalry101]

Yes, idiots proclaim the 2.5 is the greatest engine ever. It's a good engine for sure...but not great. I hate it actually, but it does make ridiculous power. I see it as a race engine though. It's a TERRIBLE RTR engine because it's so damned hard to tune. However, that doesn't make it a bad engine overall. I hate it because I can't tune it, but it is a good engine. It runs for a long time, it makes awesome power, etc, when tuned right. Being very hard to tune isn't a sign of a bad engine, it's a sign of a race engine. If an engine makes no power and is hard to tune, it's junk, but the 2.5 does make great power.

The Mach makes great power too, I would totally agree with that statement. However, it blows up all the time, even when treated right, whereas 2.5's almost never blow up when treated right. That's the difference I see. I hate both motors, one because I'm not good enough at tuning to get it to run right, and the other because I know even if I have someone who's exceptional at tuning tune it, it's still going to blow up on me.

[bpg1978]

Yes, idiots proclaim the 2.5 is the greatest engine ever. It's a good engine for sure...but not great. I hate it actually, but it does make ridiculous power. I see it as a race engine though. It's a TERRIBLE RTR engine because it's so damned hard to tune. However, that doesn't make it a bad engine overall. I hate it because I can't tune it, but it is a good engine. It runs for a long time, it makes awesome power, etc, when tuned right. Being very hard to tune isn't a sign of a bad engine, it's a sign of a race engine. If an engine makes no power and is hard to tune, it's junk, but the 2.5 does make great power.

The Mach makes great power too, I would totally agree with that statement. However, it blows up all the time, even when treated right, whereas 2.5's almost never blow up when treated right. That's the difference I see. I hate both motors, one because I'm not good enough at tuning to get it to run right, and the other because I know even if I have someone who's exceptional at tuning tune it, it's still going to blow up on me.

I feel you man. But maybe we're using the phrase "blow up" too loosely. What's actually going wrong w/everyone's motor? Again, mine was a washer. What was yours? They removed the washer and replaced piston/sleeve. It's perfect now (actually, it's sold, but ran fine). I think someone said theirs was a bearing problem. But anyhow, I sold mine for $100.00 and ordered the Collari 32 for $209.00 on ebay. That's a deal. I don't do RTR engines anyways, even if it is good. But I wouldn't knock anyone still using the Mach.26. Heck, Adam Drake races w/one still, according to Car Action Monster Trucks edition. So atleast "his" is still running. Good enough for me.

[metalry101]

Blow up as in suffer catostrophic failure of some component so that it doesn't run any more. Mine was a washer. The conrods seem to be the problem nowadays. From what I've heard, these problems aren't new, they're just amplified now that the engine is being sold so much more often attached to the LST. Perhaps these problems have also increased because Dynamite has had to increase production so much. Maybe QC just became nonexsistant in an effort to get the things out the door?

[bpg1978]

Yeah, that's usually how it goes down. Increaesd demand means more attention giving to quanity and not quality. Are you still running the Mach.26? Or have you switched it out?

[metalry101]

TBH, my LST is on Ebay cuz I'm broke and school starts...well...this week. But no, my Mach blew up after about 3/4 of a gallon so I swapped in a Picco .27. That engine is amazing. I don't think it ever took me more than 5 pulls to start, and the power is just ridiculous. It's my suggestion for anybody looking for a replacement engine for any big block monster truck. It's not as great in a buggy (not as many revs as a Hyper 8 port or something like that), but it's amazing in a monster, and it runs forever. Plus, I've sold a bunch of them, and I've sold even more of the Picco .26's before they were discontinued, and I almost never see problems with them. They're just rock solid engines.

[bpg1978]

Awwhhhh. You selling it? Dang, that's messed up. Wish you could keep it. Aren't you gonna look back later on and wish you did? What you gonna get next? Or are you gonna just chill out till next summer? It's such an expensive truck to just get rid of it. Atleast they're going on ebay at a pretty fair price used.

[metalry101]

I've got 14 r/c's right now, so I'm not getting out of the hobby...just out of the LST. It's crazy fun, but it's hard to find a place big enough to really use it. I think I'm also going to sell my MGT soon, but I dunno. My next project is finishing my crawlers. My TLT based 2.2 crawler should be done in time for the September 10th crawling competition in Moab :D :D :D :D (www.utrcrc.com for more info), and my Clod based crawler/basher (I might just have to buy another truck so I can have one Clod dedicated to each...but we'll see how the funding situation goes) should be done by next year. If my LST sells I'm going to pick up another Twin Force, because I really miss mine and I can just pull the electronics out of the Maxx to get it rockin.

I think I will miss the LST a little, but I dunno...it's easier to get rid of than my Mad Force, and my E-Maxx, and none of my other vehicles would be worth anything on Ebay, so the LST was about the only truck I could sell.

[metalry101]

Oh and as for a fair price...we shall see. Mine has less than a day left and it's only at 405. There's well over 1400 dollars in truck for sale...so hopefully it goes up. I think it will, as there are quite a few people watching it...but we'll see. I really could use some money with school starting and me moving out some time in the next coupla months and the Jeep being...well...a Jeep.

[Monsterbrad]

The problem with the Mach is it's made in Tawain which makes it a hit or miss type of thing.
THey just can't and never will be able to Machine like we can!!!!!!!!! :mad:

[metalry101]

The problem with the Mach is it's made in Tawain which makes it a hit or miss type of thing.
THey just can't and never will be able to Machine like we can!!!!!!!!! :mad:
You mean like a Dodge? We're hardly better at making things. American electronics are the worst in the world. When was the last time you bought a White-Westinghouse TV? American cars...by and large, they're a joke. There are some notable exceptions...but for the most part, they're junk. What do we make that works properly?

[nitro lover]

Is the carb barrel where the throttle linkage hooks suppose to be able to turn? I noticed today when I looked at the carb and popped the linkage off that the barrel turned. I thought that seemed wierd. By barrel I mean the black end that the low speed needle screws into. I'm not sure what to call it. Another thing I noticed is that my servo seems a little weak. If I have the epa set at 91% it moves nice and smooth but does not quite open the carb all the way. If I set it at 125% it opens all the way but seems to be a little less smooth through the entire range of motion. Is there a way to use different brand servos with the stock servo horns? I was thinking of putting a hitec 645MG in that spot. I may trade a friend for a Z590 though so I wouldn't have to worry but I was curious about switching brands.

[Cain]

I know for my radio to get the throttle smooth I had to play with the deadband and some other settings. It works great now.

[Spawntaneous]

Where did everyone go?

[Colt M4]

Spawntaneous I have never seen you in the LST forum. Did you just buy a LST or join?

[bpg1978]

Is the carb barrel where the throttle linkage hooks suppose to be able to turn? I noticed today when I looked at the carb and popped the linkage off that the barrel turned. I thought that seemed wierd. By barrel I mean the black end that the low speed needle screws into. I'm not sure what to call it. Another thing I noticed is that my servo seems a little weak. If I have the epa set at 91% it moves nice and smooth but does not quite open the carb all the way. If I set it at 125% it opens all the way but seems to be a little less smooth through the entire range of motion. Is there a way to use different brand servos with the stock servo horns? I was thinking of putting a hitec 645MG in that spot. I may trade a friend for a Z590 though so I wouldn't have to worry but I was curious about switching brands.

You should have no problem switching out the JR servo w/Hitec servo. Maybe the servo horn will be smaller but that's a easy fix since you're screwing it into a medal gear servo. Just squeeze it on as much as possible and screw it down. That carb barrel shouldn't turn, I don't think. Mine doesn't. Can it be tightened? It could possibly cause an air leak, or cause less than easy throttle response.

[bpg1978]

metalry101.....It sold for $480.00 on ebay, huh? Your reserve wasn't even met so I guess it's staying home w/daddy? You wanna sell any parts, upgrades?

[antichip2000]

You mean like a Dodge? We're hardly better at making things. American electronics are the worst in the world. When was the last time you bought a White-Westinghouse TV? American cars...by and large, they're a joke. There are some notable exceptions...but for the most part, they're junk. What do we make that works properly?

MANY electronics and machined parts that are made in the US are of surerior quality than anything else in the world. The issue is that these are not mass market items and usally demand a very hefty price. It just depends on the amount of rejects the company is willing to comprmise with.

[bpg1978]

metalry101......dang dude, don't be so forceful. I work for Ford Motor Co. so I like plenty of American cars/trucks. Foreign surely isn't ALWAYS better, just in some cases. Back to R/C. The Mach.26 isn't bad because of the country it's built in. It's flawed because of poor engineering from WHOEVER made it. This happens in every country. Whoever likes the engine, run the heck out of it until it "blows!" And if you don't like it, buy something else. It's fast, it's cheap, it's slow, it's garbage, it's great, it's wack. Who cares. Let's talk about something else....please.

[Challenger]

You mean like a Dodge? We're hardly better at making things. American electronics are the worst in the world. When was the last time you bought a White-Westinghouse TV? American cars...by and large, they're a joke. There are some notable exceptions...but for the most part, they're junk. What do we make that works properly?

"You mean like a Dodge".

My Dodge runs ok. 1970 Challenger R/T (SIX PACK CAR) :)

[Colt M4]

Hey what are you guys running for race set-ups?

[bpg1978]

It depends on the track layout. Actually the stock springs work great on most tracks. I run yellow front/rear. work great w/thick sway bars. Of course Bowties on 40's. 30wt. shock fluid. 50,000wt diffs.

[Monsterbrad]

You mean like a Dodge? We're hardly better at making things. American electronics are the worst in the world. When was the last time you bought a White-Westinghouse TV? American cars...by and large, they're a joke. There are some notable exceptions...but for the most part, they're junk. What do we make that works properly?
You probably go to China Mart aka (Wall Mart) and buy all your stuff too don't ya!
It's people like you that are bringing this country down buy supporting the Made in China bull ****!!!!!!
I lost my job due to all the over seas bull and I get really pissed of when people talk **** on american made products.
So yeah I am a little bitter about the crap that is made over seas.
not to piss anybody off here I am just trying to make a point.
Try to buy less stuff that is made over seas and support good old america here! :D

[doesgo]

We seem to be in the wrong hobby to avoid buying non-American-made stuff. :(

[nitro lover]

I called horizon today and the fact that the end of the carb rotates is fine. Losing a job really sucks but it is not the fault of an average consumer, it is the fault of large corpations looking to squeeze every last penny of profit out of there operations. There are good arguments on both sides of the walmart thing, but being from a small town that has a walmart that gives money to many different aspects of the city voluntarily, aka tax benefits, and employs many people from the area it is hard to tear them down to much. That is just my 2 cents.

[doesgo]

"it is the fault of large corpations looking to squeeze every last penny of profit out of there operations."

That certainly has an effect, but it's also the fault of the general consumer who will pay as little as possible for products to save money. It's generally cheaper to have things made in Asia and shipped here than made here in the first place. Most people don't seem to care about "Made in the USA" so they just buy whatever is cheapest. If you sell USA-made stuff at a higher price, soon you'll be out of business.

[Colt M4]

I just bought a set of MIP CVD's and I decided I would call Mip about something when I found out they no longer make them and they don't make the parts either because they have had so many problems. The person said it is a 50/50 chance that you have a good set. So I was wondering if anybody who races has had any problems with them.

[tmaxxster4375]

I know of 2 people that have had problems with them. I saw it to it wasnt hear say.

[metalry101]

bpg19781~
It didn't sell. The reserve is set at 600 (it's relisted). I think that's reasonable. 1500 dollars in truck for 600? I don't think that's asking too much. Anyways...if it doesn't sell this time, sure I'll sell some hop-ups. PM me if it doesn't sell this time either with what you want and I'll make you a deal.

As for not all American things sucking, I agree. I drive a Jeep. Honestly, it's a piece of junk, but I love just the same. Americans can build some worthwhile stuff...if we have a big enough budget. The problem is that we can't build a quality product and sell it at a competitive price very often. It's either cheap in price and quality or outragously expensive and outragously well-built. There doesn't seem to be a lot in between to me.

Challenger~
Nice. I know a guy with a '74 Challenger. They're good looking cars...kinda hard to find though since most Mopars from that era have long since turned to dust. Mopars are cool though. My dad's first car was a '70 340 Duster in orange with black stripes down the side. That's a cool American car. Doesn't mean it's well made...but it was very, very cool.

Monsterbrad~
So it's people like me who blew up the world trade center, people like me who think their way is the only way and everyone else should be forced to walk in a line with them, and people like me who are always trying to "take it to the man?" According to you I also shop at Wal-Mart? Get your facts straight. I'm not ruining this great country of ours any more than you are. Oh, and just for reference, I don't shop at Wal-Mart. I buy quality American things. Buying crap American products solely because they're American doesn't do American ANY good, but if an American company offers a product that's as good or better as their competitor's product, and it's competitively priced, generally I'll buy the American one.

[Colt M4]

Were they beating on them or was this more of the products fault.

[johannsy]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/LST/CIMG0588.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/LST/CIMG0587.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/LST/CIMG0590.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/LST/CIMG0591.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/LST/CIMG0592.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/korevo/LST/CIMG0589.jpg

[bpg1978]

"Can't we all just get along?"
Let's be honest, we all have in some way, shape, or form supported foreign trade. We may try not to but sometimes we can't help to. Quality, availability, price....they all matter. There is not just one country that makes everything best. The whole earth in one form or another depends on eachother. Where did all the parts on the LST come from? Not the manufacturing, but each MATERIAL? The raw materials, rubber, oils, plastic, metals......not one country. That's not to play down the fact that America is loosing while others are winning. But it's bigger than us. We're involved but the governments, including ours, is responsible for the financial shift. Our products cost more, but we also get paid more to make them. Our economy is in trouble, period. But..............the LST is one bad mutha#@$*^%!

[Monsterbrad]

Guys I did not mean to start ****!
My entire family has been through bad bad times cause of all this including a marriage that lasted for 25 years being destroyed!
So on that note I am a little bitter over certian things.
But any ways on a a better note that LST is SWEET!!!!!
That skid plate is awesome where is that from????

[metalry101]

I'm assuming you mean that center skid?

If so, that's a Losi piece. Part # LOSB2261

Here's a pic. (http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2005/lst/losb2261.jpg)

[Gashole]

I like Chinese food. :eek:

[Challenger]

bpg19781~
It didn't sell. The reserve is set at 600 (it's relisted). I think that's reasonable. 1500 dollars in truck for 600? I don't think that's asking too much. Anyways...if it doesn't sell this time, sure I'll sell some hop-ups. PM me if it doesn't sell this time either with what you want and I'll make you a deal.

As for not all American things sucking, I agree. I drive a Jeep. Honestly, it's a piece of junk, but I love just the same. Americans can build some worthwhile stuff...if we have a big enough budget. The problem is that we can't build a quality product and sell it at a competitive price very often. It's either cheap in price and quality or outragously expensive and outragously well-built. There doesn't seem to be a lot in between to me.

Challenger~
Nice. I know a guy with a '74 Challenger. They're good looking cars...kinda hard to find though since most Mopars from that era have long since turned to dust. Mopars are cool though. My dad's first car was a '70 340 Duster in orange with black stripes down the side. That's a cool American car. Doesn't mean it's well made...but it was very, very cool.

Monsterbrad~
So it's people like me who blew up the world trade center, people like me who think their way is the only way and everyone else should be forced to walk in a line with them, and people like me who are always trying to "take it to the man?" According to you I also shop at Wal-Mart? Get your facts straight. I'm not ruining this great country of ours any more than you are. Oh, and just for reference, I don't shop at Wal-Mart. I buy quality American things. Buying crap American products solely because they're American doesn't do American ANY good, but if an American company offers a product that's as good or better as their competitor's product, and it's competitively priced, generally I'll buy the American one.




Challenger~
"Nice. I know a guy with a '74 Challenger. They're good looking cars...kinda hard to find though since most Mopars from that era have long since turned to dust. Mopars are cool though. My dad's first car was a '70 340 Duster in orange with black stripes down the side. That's a cool American car. Doesn't mean it's well made...but it was very, very cool".

Bet your dad wishes he had that Duster back!! Today a decent 340 Duster (the color was "Street Hemi Orange") would bring $20,000 plus. They sold new for $2,900 back then. I had a "Street Hemi Orange" 340 Demon when I got out of high school. Yes, I would like it back, but it's long gone. :(

[Monsterbrad]

Man I like that skid plate :D
Mine will have one as soon as I get the engine in it and hopefully it runs this time.
If not I am going to be putting K 4.6 in there and see how that does!!!!!

[bpg1978]

This might not be the thread for this, but Team Associated has decided to upgrade their MGT with a .46 thunder tiger engine. I guess they realized that Losi blew them out the water with the LST. Rtr .21's just don't do the job anymore. It also has a rotostart/pullstart assembly. Just get a LST and be done.

[Speedtester]

I thought they were using a .26 engine. The .46 is gonna be insane. Are you sure thats its not that tricky TT new way of sizing engines?

This might not be the thread for this, but Team Associated has decided to upgrade their MGT with a .46 thunder tiger engine. I guess they realized that Losi blew them out the water with the LST. Rtr .21's just don't do the job anymore. It also has a rotostart/pullstart assembly. Just get a LST and be done.

[tmaxxster4375]

On the MIP's, they were not beating on them. Both were on the first race day at the track. One had a pin come out of the bone, the other had a cup shatter.

[bpg1978]

It's in the October Car Action on page 94-95. It's called MGT4.60SE. It says 33% more displacement. I'd race that w/my LST and still kill it though. I think!

[Speedtester]

Ok so it's really a .28 motor not a .46. Because .21 + 33% = .2793. I think your just misunderstanding the Thunder tigers new way of displacing engines. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I've seen it in some thread here.




It's in the October Car Action on page 94-95. It's called MGT4.60SE. It says 33% more displacement. I'd race that w/my LST and still kill it though. I think!

[Speedtester]

Ok, I think I figured it out. It's a 4.6cc engine not a .46ci. So that computes to about a .28ci engine.

[bpg1978]

Isn't that new savage pulling the same crap? The 4.6 one?

[Monsterbrad]

The 4.6 is a .28
The new K 4.6 that the savage comes with is a pretty decent engine once it has a Nova race products head on it.
I have been racing mine in my truggy all summer it runs great!
Its not that much more powerfull then the Mach but the Mach is having major issues.

[bpg1978]

What kind of truggy you run? I use to have a SUT Pro but I couldn't get satisfied with it.

[fuzzy1]

Okay guys, I just got my LST and I have a couple of questions:

1) I bought a 5-cell flat pack and a 5-cell hump pack, along with the required Y-harness for the receiver duties. I know where the flat pack goes, thats easy. My lhs says the hump pack goes under the fuel tank. Is that right?

2) I also bought a fail safe with it. Where is the best place to mount it? Should it be inside the receiver box or is it okay to leave it out?

Sorry for the dumb questions, but this is my first time in nitro and monster trucks.

[Speedtester]

Yes the hump pacl goes under the fuel tank, there is a little square section that it fits snuggly in.

I put my failsafe in the receiver box with all the other electronics. There is plenty of room and it keeps the dirt and crap off it.

Any other questions feel free to ask, btw they aren't really any dumb questions to ask so never feel bad asking. We are all here to help. :p



Okay guys, I just got my LST and I have a couple of questions:

1) I bought a 5-cell flat pack and a 5-cell hump pack, along with the required Y-harness for the receiver duties. I know where the flat pack goes, thats easy. My lhs says the hump pack goes under the fuel tank. Is that right?

2) I also bought a fail safe with it. Where is the best place to mount it? Should it be inside the receiver box or is it okay to leave it out?

Sorry for the dumb questions, but this is my first time in nitro and monster trucks.

[Monsterbrad]

I run a Hot Bodies LSP
Lightening Stadium Pro
I have a few things done to it but the K 4.6 makes it fast enough for the track I am racing at.
I have to say though the LST set up right will give me a run for my money when they combine the 2 classes but I am still the points leader with my pit and race partner on my heels its a good time.

[fuzzy1]

Yes the hump pacl goes under the fuel tank, there is a little square section that it fits snuggly in.

I put my failsafe in the receiver box with all the other electronics. There is plenty of room and it keeps the dirt and crap off it.

Any other questions feel free to ask, btw they aren't really any dumb questions to ask so never feel bad asking. We are all here to help. :p


Thanks! It took me a little while but I got it done.

[Ball Racing]

That Nova head just let you lean it down to the point of "lack of lubrication",
Faster yes, long life -no.
Temp gun on the head will be low, but the case itself is still running warm......

[bpg1978]

That LSP is one nice looking truggy. The aluminum is tight. Speaking of that....who makes worthwhile aluminum shock towers for the LST that won't bend? Again, like somebody here warned me, team integy's sucked. Also, are the aluminum clutch shoes worth buying? What about the graphite chassis?

[TNN]

Yes the hump pacl goes under the fuel tank, there is a little square section that it fits snuggly in.

I put my failsafe in the receiver box with all the other electronics. There is plenty of room and it keeps the dirt and crap off it.

Any other questions feel free to ask, btw they aren't really any dumb questions to ask so never feel bad asking. We are all here to help. :p
A friend of mine just put the F only kit in his LST and now it only goes in reverse.Any help please.

[Colt M4]

He probalby put the diffs in upside-down. I did that once and I wondered why it went faster in reverse than in foward. I will never make that mistake again, almost broke my truck in half.

[TNN]

He probalby put the diffs in upside-down. I did that once and I wondered why it went faster in reverse than in foward. I will never make that mistake again, almost broke my truck in half.
Yes you are right that is what he did.Thanks for the help.

[Monsterbrad]

They sent me a new engine!
They said in the note that they have the rod problem solved.
I hope this is true.
I will find out later this week when I break the engine in !
The truck has only been sitting since May pretty much.

[bpg1978]

Congrats Monsterbrad! Long overdue, huh?
Hey...I have a question. I just got my Collari 32 today. In reference to the rotostart on the back, where can I find the adapter or roto-tool for it? The Losi tip is hex, this looks like a drive shaft outer cup.

[doesgo]

The RotoStart and Losi Spin Start use different size hexes in their drive units, so the wands aren't interchangeable. I'm not sure if an adapter exists, so you may need to buy an entire RotoStart drive unit.

You can get a new, cheap Hot Bodies JumpStart here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=84_92&products_id=126) if you want. it's the same as the HPI RotoStart.

[bpg1978]

Thanks hommie! It looks like what I need. I guess I'll be putting my Losi rotostart hand unit on ebay. What a waste.

[Monsterbrad]

I would hang on to the roto start unit.
It might come in handy and what you will get for it off ebay you are better off keeping it around.
I have 2 and its kinda nice
then again I like having tons of rc stuff any ways

[Colt M4]

If a HPI rotostart fits a motor shouldn't the spin-start be able to fit since they both have the same internal hex size. That you could take the rotostart off and put on the spin-start.

[Monsterbrad]

The HPI roto start and the LST starter have different size hexes on the starter rods.
They are not interchangeable at all.

[Ball Racing]

You can put a xtm .247 back plate- one way assembly on the mach, and then that is small enough to put the hpi roto start unit on.

[bpg1978]

That is foolish! Why in the world hasn't someone made an interchangable rod for those things? It's just a piece of freakin' metal with a tiny driveshaft on the end. Collari should sell the adapter, and not expect the customer to go buy one from HPI or Hotbodies. Anyways, I had to do some modifying to get that .32 motor to work with the Losi flywheel. When I tightened the flywheel onto the brass collar, the top of the wheel mashed up against the motor case. I had put a washer behind the collar to make clearance, but later removed it out of fear of damage to the bearing behind it. Plus it took up needed length on the shaft. (which still became a problem anyways) So I dremelled a taper on the rear outside edge of the flywheel and took off 1mm of the case where it contacted. Then I ran into the problem of not enough shaft to clear the outside bearing of the clutch bell. Didn't have a small enough washer to act as an extension of the shaft so I used a longer and different threaded screw w/washer to hold everything in place. What a mess. I still can't break it in untill I get a rotostart. This sucks.

[Ball Racing]

On mine the flywheel was rubbin the carb, so I had to notch the carb.
I spaced the flywheel from the case, and made up the difference on the bell side,
If you have shims you can make it anything you want, you have room against the spurs to go over some...

[Colt M4]

Question, my dads boss bought a LST to use on his vacation. I broke it in for him got about 6 tanks through it and ruining good. He started it up at his vacation spot and it was working fine for about 4 tanks and it just blew up. The conrod snapped in half. Has anybody had this same experience? And does anybody know what Horizon Hobby's policy is on this?

[Ball Racing]

Have you been reading the posts on these pages??? :confused:


LOTS of people have had that prob............

[bpg1978]

Colt M4.....Everybody (95%) on this thread had that problem. Call Horizon and they'll tell you to send it on back. 2-4 weeks later (hopefully) it'll be returned to you fixed. Come on man.......you knew this already right? You're just foolin' right? Anyways, it's all good. He should be happy it lasted THAT long. Mine blew at #3.

[metalry101]

That is foolish! Why in the world hasn't someone made an interchangable rod for those things? It's just a piece of freakin' metal with a tiny driveshaft on the end. Collari should sell the adapter, and not expect the customer to go buy one from HPI or Hotbodies. Anyways, I had to do some modifying to get that .32 motor to work with the Losi flywheel. When I tightened the flywheel onto the brass collar, the top of the wheel mashed up against the motor case. I had put a washer behind the collar to make clearance, but later removed it out of fear of damage to the bearing behind it. Plus it took up needed length on the shaft. (which still became a problem anyways) So I dremelled a taper on the rear outside edge of the flywheel and took off 1mm of the case where it contacted. Then I ran into the problem of not enough shaft to clear the outside bearing of the clutch bell. Didn't have a small enough washer to act as an extension of the shaft so I used a longer and different threaded screw w/washer to hold everything in place. What a mess. I still can't break it in untill I get a rotostart. This sucks.
That sucks man. Not to be an ass...but my Picco bolted right in, no modifications at all. It runs a pull-start too, which I prefer.

[Monsterbrad]

I prefer the LST starter myself the drive shaft kind that HPI uses is kinda crappy but I have not seen one break yet and my race partner uses one all the time.
Once again
Losi told me they believe they have the con rod issues fixed.
They were spinning the bearing at the crank or breaking in half.
I hope mine is good I am going to put it back in the truck tomorrow and hopefuly when this rain stops I will be getting into it and actually running my still new LST from May! :D

[bpg1978]

Metalry101.......That Picco IS a good engine. I do believe you. But I had to go big. I can't run a .28 when there's a .32 out there. I just can't do it. The price on the Picco is great. And I do like that green head. Pullstart is cool. I kinda wish I had one. More conventional. If the 7.2v pack is dead, so is my truck. It just saves me some skin on my fingers. I have time though for my starter thing cause the rain is pouring here too. I'm gonna run Trinity Platinum 20% in this one by the way.

[fuzzy1]

Here's a question for all you LST know-it-alls. I've got four tanks through my new LST. According to Losi's instructions, the factory setting for the high speed needle is 2.5 turns out from closed. However to get the engine running around 230 degrees, I have my needle set around 2.75 - 3 turns out. I'm running O'Donnell 30% fuel and the air temp is around 85 degrees here. The engine seems to run pretty good at this setting, but of course this is my first nitro vehicle. I don't have alot of experience yet. Does my needle setting seem to be in the ballpark for the Mach 26 or might I be running too rich? I'm afraid to lean it out more for fear that the temperature will climb too high. Your advice and help is greatly appreciated.

[Ball Racing]

Factory needle settings are just a guidline.
Each days humidity
barometric pressure
alitutude
and temp
will dictate what needles will be for that day.

Some people only will run what the factory reccomends,(but nitro brands, nitro % and oil content all require different fuel settings)
and that may work today, and be to lean tomorrow, or too rich, both of which can hurt engine life.

If your temp is good, If your performance is good, If you see a smoke trail,
Your GOOD,

[bpg1978]

That just about sums up my thoughts. You're going to have to adjust the settings frequently based on the performance of the engine anyways, due to the mentioned conditions. So give those things consideration when needed, watch temperature and performance, and have a blast. And be careful leaning it out too much with that 30% O'donnel. It contains enough oil to protect engine but just keep an eye on it. There's a THIN line between insane performance and a too lean engine. Especially w/30% fuel.

[fuzzy1]

Thanks for the advice guys. Any recommendations on a good performing air filter?

[bpg1978]

Motorsaver makes a nice one. GPM is the one I run. It's anodized alloy w/dual filters. K&N even has a good one. More expensive though. Dynamite has a basic one, similar to stock, which isn't bad. Why don't you use the stock one? It works fine. I changed mine 'cause I love aluminum.

[Ball Racing]

I got my RPM gear cover,
Nice.....

[Speedtester]

I Got mine last week also, Pretty well made. Definitally worth the tiny bit of money it costs.

I got my RPM gear cover,
Nice.....

[bpg1978]

Yeah, they have a lot for this truck. I still have to get aluminum clutch shoes. I'll just wait on either the graphite or hard anodized chassis.

[Monsterbrad]

A warning on 30% Nitro fuel in the Mach 26!
I have had a few of these engines and I am on my 3rd one after problems with the new con rod problem.
I ran 30% in my original Mach and it took the glow plug out once the temp outside dropped below about 60 and the coil went into the engine and destroyed the piston and sleeve.
I have raced a truck one on one with 30% in it and the little bit of power gain you get is not worth losing the engine!
So I run 20% Odonnell and it works great in all my engine's
Just wanted to let you know that.
My truck is all back together.
Tomorrow is break in day.

[Ball Racing]

You had the engine too lean thats all.
The cooler it gets the richer the fuel needs to be.
You would think you want it leaner to make heat, but nooooooooo.....
Also when you put 30% in you should be going to a cool MC 9 instead of a stock requirment MC59....

[bpg1978]

Very, very true. Colder air is denser w/ less oxygen. Therefore more fuel is needed to balance combustion. Warmer air needs less fuel to combust. It's very easy to switch that around. Does anyone use an O.S. plug or do you all stick w/Dynamite?

[doesgo]

Colder air is denser with MORE oxygen, not less, thus the need for more fuel to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio.

I really like O.S. plugs, I run an O.S. 8 in nearly everything.

[bpg1978]

You sure?........My fault. I thought it was less oxygen. But I'm no scientist. So is the O.S. #8 cold or hot or medium?

[doesgo]

Denser air has more of everything per unit volume. The O.S. #8 plug is called "medium hot" and is usually used in small-blocks, but I've used it with good success in big-blocks as well. I've used plenty of MC8s and MC9s though, too.

[Monsterbrad]

I was told by a person that has been in this hobby for 30 years that running 30% Nitro is a mistake.
I am not trying to cause any kind of argument here but when I was told that after I ran it in my Mach and blew it up at around 200 degree's that this would not be a good idea.
If you do run 30% you can add a head shim and that will help with the glow plug problem that I had.
I do race with guys that run 30% and they have nothing but luck with it so there are good and bad sides to it all.

[Ball Racing]

Boat motors run 60 and 80 %
The mach has alot of head clearance already.
I have had 6 machs, and 5 sportwerks 26(same motor)
all but one on 30% ,,no blows.
10% more nitro doesn't blow motors.
Faulty parts, and faulty tuning-maintanace cause blow ups...

[Monsterbrad]

Running 30% is ok if you are willing to tune and do what you have to.
The power gain in my mind is not worth it.
But then again I like to get the longest life outa my engine's also.
Not saying that a proper tune and the correct glow plug and 30% will not warrant good engine life it is harder on the engine.
Got the truck broke in tonight
Runs great so far
I will see on Monday when it goes out for the first bash session.

[bpg1978]

The advantages of running 30% fuel are much desired in a race. It does give you more power, acceleration, and whatever else. Thus lessening lap times. In these conditions tuning is critical anyways. But for bashing and having fun....20% is all you need. Why take the chance and decrease the life of your engine (because it is more critical to have the tuning within range) for a little more power? If you love tinkering w/those needles cool. But the average Joe need not be overly concerned.

[Monsterbrad]

Good point
I will stick to running 20% all the time
works well :D

[markanda]

I had #2928 and ran 30% nitro in my Mach 26 stock for over 11 gallons. Never had a problem till i ran the infamous "20%".....then it was back to horizion with the motor (two weeks and recieved new one to replace), not that this post does anything but FUEL the 20 or 30% question !! LOL

[Monsterbrad]

Tune has all to do with it!
My buddy's LST has over 4 gallons through it and that includes Blue thunder Odonnell both 20% and Traxxas 33% or whatever it is.
It's still running strong and likes the Odonnell the best! 20%

[Y2KGTP]

Tune has all to do with it!
My buddy's LST has over 4 gallons through it and that includes Blue thunder Odonnell both 20% and Traxxas 33% or whatever it is.
It's still running strong and likes the Odonnell the best! 20%

what is the oil content of the Odonnell 20%? I'm running trinity 20%, 12% oil now, and I am about out.....time to get some new gas, and may switch

[markanda]

Tune has all to do with it!
My buddy's LST has over 4 gallons through it and that includes Blue thunder Odonnell both 20% and Traxxas 33% or whatever it is.
It's still running strong and likes the Odonnell the best! 20%

I agree 100% - i pride myself on a well tuned engine and only after many gallons and the "defective" conrod did it go.....I have heard only good things about the traxxas 33% as well but have not used it so cant give my personal review. The CVDs on the LST (the losi ones) are such crap - even the updated ones - hard to believe that design cant be made to incorporate what HPI does to prevent the pins from backing out, they use a collar over the pin opening to eliminate the need for the grub screw. Check out the CVDs that come on the HPI MT2 SS - that design is needed for the LST

[bpg1978]

That's jacked up. Losi is a very quality concerned company. They've tried to remedy the problems, and have done well in areas. But some times, you wonder,"did they even drive this thing first?". But I still love it. I'm even thinking about selling my ntc3 to concentrate more on the LST. I don't know, maybe I'm crazy.

[markanda]

That's jacked up. Losi is a very quality concerned company. They've tried to remedy the problems, and have done well in areas. But some times, you wonder,"did they even drive this thing first?". But I still love it. I'm even thinking about selling my ntc3 to concentrate more on the LST. I don't know, maybe I'm crazy.

I have to say that the customer service at Horizion is exceptional. I recieved a replacement engine in two weeks from the day I shipped it out. You cant get better service than that on a warranty repair. On the CVD issue-I have read in other forums the concern of some of the design issues. I just got a set of MIP CVDs for the LST and I'm looking forward to seeing how they stand up compared to the team losi lones. Btw, LST is the truck out there to beat today. No other truck out there comes close today ......

[Ball Racing]

The MIP's are trouble makers too...............

[doesgo]

I understand the MIP CVDs for the LST have even been discontinued!

[Ball Racing]

I heard the same..

[Monsterbrad]

I lost my back up Mach today that I had in my MGT! :rolleyes:
The con rod shattered to pieces.
Sending it back tomorrow
I hope they replace this one too.
I also hope that the one that I am running in my LST currently that they just sent me is going to be ok.
Seems to be ripping now :D
one down and one still running
Still like the mach its a great engine for power :)

[Speedtester]

I want to know why Mark thinks his engine died because of fuel. I mean come on 11 gallons, you should know that is way above average and you got your moneys worth. Goodluck with those MIP CVD's, I've had no luck with them either. I'm back on the Losi stocks and havent had a problem since my #1xxx originals.

[fordracer]

i was just looking on the net and found titanium axles for the lst. they are on hobbyfever. com they ran 18.80 for two.

[Monsterbrad]

My opinion on titanium with my machining backround is that it's brittle.
We all put our trucks through some serious pounding and titanium will be strong but things need to flex just a little even axles.
Try them and let us know

[Ball Racing]

Brittle?
How come it has a memory and will go back if bent?
Would we use it for turn buckles if it would snap?
They advertise lense frames(your know glasses) out of titanium, they show them being able to bent into spagetti shapes and poping back in place.

Only place I know it has shown brittle(or ever fracturing) is in top fuel dragsters as rods, and as exhaust valves in Open Mod Briggs motors at around 11,000rpms...

Every alloy has it's faults but I swear I don't think that we will see the fault of this one in R/C...
But I didn't study it in a school or anything so I can't prove it...:)

[fordracer]

i have the hardcore racing front bummper brace i've bent it and straighten it a couple times now and on stess marks

[fordracer]

go to altoonaraceway .com race results aug 21 05

[abels621]

hi, im pretty new at these forums. i have a couple questions about the lst. i like the lst a lot but have heard of durability issues with the truck from these forums. i know that in the november 2004 issue rcca they gave the lst a durability rating of 10. i find that hard to believe when reading through these forums. i have two t-maxxes which have been very good to me. i only break small stuff and it happens pretty rarely. i want to get a new truck and i want the lst but if im going to spend 600 bucks on something, i want it to hold up pretty well. how does the lst rate against the t-maxx 2.5 in durability? also i just want this truck to bash with but it has to be able to beat a stock t-maxx 2.5 any help would be appreciated thanx

[bpg1978]

The tmaxx2.5 isn't as big, heavy, nor as powerful as the LST. With that being said, there are parts that are more likely to break such as axles, and .........I don't know. That's actually all that broke on mine. Besides the motor. But others had other issues. And I wouldn't worry about it slacking behind the T-maxx. The T-maxx is quick and durable, but the Losi is loaded with features and capabilities that nothing else has. In comparison, to me, the T-maxx can't touch it. Go with the LST or get out this forum.....HA HA HA HA! Just playin'.

[Monsterbrad]

As far as I am concerned
DON'T SAY THOSE WORDS IN THIS FORUM AGAIN! :mad:
T-Maxx
that is just wrong
that is like comparing a Hemi to a pinto engine
:D
Traxxas needs to come outa the little boy stage of this hobby and join the men.
Ok enough ripping on traxxas
The durability issues are all things that can be solved for the most part.
The Mach is experiencing problems right now with rods letting go but they will fix that for free.
Drive shaft issues are still around but they have solved that for the most part too.
It all has to do with how you drive the truck to.
Any truck will break under harsh conditions.
As far as competition
The MGT is close but needs a bunch of money thrown at it to come close to the speed of the LST.

[abels621]

alright alright i get the lst then. i just got to start saving!

[Chevy-SS]

Hey, who should I contact to see about returning a Mach .26 with a blown connecting rod? It's a LST engine that I bought off eBay.

The rod was worn down on one side so it must have been contacting something in the engine (the one-way bearing I am assuming).

Thanks

[patrick scot]

I have to say that the customer service at Horizion is exceptional. I recieved a replacement engine in two weeks from the day I shipped it out. You cant get better service than that on a warranty repair. On the CVD issue-I have read in other forums the concern of some of the design issues. I just got a set of MIP CVDs for the LST and I'm looking forward to seeing how they stand up compared to the team losi lones. Btw, LST is the truck out there to beat today. No other truck out there comes close today ......
EXCEPT THE TNX LOL

[Monsterbrad]

chevy ss

Horizon Service Center
ATT: Mach 26 Service
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign,IL 61822
Include a note explaining you problem
Kind of fuel and % nitro being used!
Type of glow Plug!
Type of air cleaner!
And how long did you run the engine
Also include your return address and you can call them also and let them know you are sending in a junk Mach too.
1-877-504-0233
1-800-338-4639
this is what I have had to do 4 times so far LOL

[bpg1978]

EXCEPT THE TNX LOL

I hope you were just playing. The TNX is cool, but this is the LST folks here. We don't care crap about T-maxxes, TNX, truggies, or whatever. The LST runs the monster truck class!

[Monsterbrad]

There is no bigger or better outa the box.
And as you guys that follow my purchases I have had them all.
:D LST RULES

[abels621]

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/upfiles/152243/Jh16053.jpg
above is a link to my modified LST

Here what I have on it
Siro .27 racer with trinity monster head.

Hardcore: main chassis, upper chassis plates, bulkhead plates, upper and lower hingepin plates, and the battery holder.

Losi: hi-pref front,middle,and center skid plates, threaded shocks, tini shock shafts, hi-cap fuel tank, hi-pref brakes, tini pinion and spur gears, and yellow springs.

Jr 8800s throttle/brake servo
Mip cvds
dynamite: axle carriers, brake/reverse arms, fuel tank posts, steering bellcrank

proline 23mm 40 series velocity rims with bowties

I think that is it, there might be more, want to get steering servos yet.

i looked everywhere on dynamites site for those aluminum axle carriers and i cant find them. are they called spindles? any help? ps sry if this was already answered 70 pages is a lot

[Monsterbrad]

I am not sure but I think integy makes almost all the aluminum parts that you will need for this truck.
That is a great set up you have going on there.

[Chevy-SS]

chevy ss

Horizon Service Center
ATT: Mach 26 Service
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign,IL 61822
Include a note explaining you problem
Kind of fuel and % nitro being used!
Type of glow Plug!
Type of air cleaner!
And how long did you run the engine
Also include your return address and you can call them also and let them know you are sending in a junk Mach too.
1-877-504-0233
1-800-338-4639
this is what I have had to do 4 times so far LOL

Many thanks for this info. I called and they were very helpful. No arguments at all. Just said to send in the engine and they woulf fix or repair. I sent it in yesterday.

They said it was a design issue that had been corrected, so Monsterbrad, why have you had to return 4 engines??????

[Y2KGTP]

EXCEPT THE TNX LOL

Isn't a TNX a small-block truck? I have to checkout 1 in person, as when I think of Tamiya, I think of the grasshopper, Hornet & the Almighty Frog (Which was my first "real" RC car, 25yrs ago or so)

[doesgo]

Yes, the TNX comes with an O.S.-built .18 small-block engine. Very nice truck, actually. Good for racing and bashing.

[Ball Racing]

Don't bother putting Integy stuff in your LST,
their stuff bends as easy as their stickers......

[bpg1978]

YES THEY DO! Their shock towers are like soft clay! Haven't bent the arms yet, but I don't really bash mine either.

[Monsterbrad]

yes I have heard the same thing about integy stuff and it bending easily
I have had nothing but problems with a few Mach's now
The last one that went back tuesday was one that I had for a back up engine that was one that had the problem still and my new LST that I got is april has had 2 in it one rebuilt and the other brand new from them after there rebuild blew up

[markanda]

chevy ss

Horizon Service Center
ATT: Mach 26 Service
4105 Fieldstone Rd.
Champaign,IL 61822
Include a note explaining you problem
Kind of fuel and % nitro being used!
Type of glow Plug!
Type of air cleaner!
And how long did you run the engine
Also include your return address and you can call them also and let them know you are sending in a junk Mach too.
1-877-504-0233
1-800-338-4639
this is what I have had to do 4 times so far LOL

OUCH four times, Brad ? I am thinking about selling the NEW mach they sent me then and sticking with the picco 27 after all. Is anyone having any failure with the engines they are sending out for replacement LATELY ? I can see that you got new replacements that failed....ouch again !!!

New issue : how many times have you been running your LST and it just suddenly goes into neutral ? Is anyone running the MIP CVDs and if so how is there experience with them ?

[fordracer]

i race my lst and with few other people at are track and we share info on what parts to buy and not to buy mip cvds are good in the back and the center kit are they are a little longer than the stockers but for up front you are better off just using the stock ones because they are cheap to replace.

[fordracer]

what trouble are you have with the cvds. mine was the pin that holds the alxe to the dog bone keep backing out. i sloved this buying the rebuild kit and useing two set screws insted of one haven't had trouble seens

[markanda]

what trouble are you have with the cvds. mine was the pin that holds the alxe to the dog bone keep backing out. i sloved this buying the rebuild kit and useing two set screws insted of one haven't had trouble seens

There is a two fold problem with the cvd's.

1) the Axle with the two holes has been updated with a four hold hardened axle.

2) the orginal pin is not as good or notched i dont think like the one that comes with the rebuild kit. btw, (does anyone think that rebuild kit was kinda of steep for what is in it ?). I just got the MIP cvds for the axles and contemplating the drive shaft ones if they are a bit longer too, I dont love the way that the stock ones dont go all the way in the drive cup.

Besides these small issues - I would have no other truck. This hobby is about overcoming the shortcomings of the vehicles we abuse

[patrick scot]

I hope you were just playing. The TNX is cool, but this is the LST folks here. We don't care crap about T-maxxes, TNX, truggies, or whatever. The LST runs the monster truck class!
actually i have a tnx and love it. i'm about to order a lst but hope that the new ones don't have the engine trouble. i was ready about 2 months ago to order one but the engine problems made me wait until now. i just called horizon hobby and asked them if any new batch engines had problems. he told me not that he is aware of. i'm waiting for crispy critters in nj to email me back to see if it's in stock. if so i'm buying. i already have rpm arms, aluminum diff covers, 2nd gear cover, high perf. fiberglass brakes, crowd pleazer body, 5 cell pack and extra air filters. i'll race my tnx in small block class and the lst in big block class. any other advice for what i need. pat

[markanda]

actually i have a tnx and love it. i'm about to order a lst but hope that the new ones don't have the engine trouble. i was ready about 2 months ago to order one but the engine problems made me wait until now. i just called horizon hobby and asked them if any new batch engines had problems. he told me not that he is aware of. i'm waiting for crispy critters in nj to email me back to see if it's in stock. if so i'm buying. i already have rpm arms, aluminum diff covers, 2nd gear cover, high perf. fiberglass brakes, crowd pleazer body, 5 cell pack and extra air filters. i'll race my tnx in small block class and the lst in big block class. any other advice for what i need. pat

Yea baby, you will need some formidable competition !!!! know of any ? lol

[patrick scot]

Yea baby, you will need some formidable competition !!!! know of any ? lol
mark it looks like i'll be bringing my lst to barnstormers on the 18th they had it in stock and i just ordered it along with the foward only. can't wait pat

[markanda]

mark it looks like i'll be bringing my lst to barnstormers on the 18th they had it in stock and i just ordered it along with the foward only. can't wait pat

Cool, I have yet to install my FOK - They have it at NYCH so I will pick it up this weekend. I also got those Losi King pin tires with the Losi beadlock rims. The ofna has been doing me well...i will put it through its paces tomorrow and Sunday. I will save it though for next week for sure ! (i wont beat on it that bad) . Btw, do you have the alum diff cases yet ? Check with me on the other stuff, I can get most of it for ya dirt cheap as you know. What is this site that you bought yours from ?

[Ball Racing]

If you put a longer center cvd in there, you can't take the trans out with out removing the diffs to gain clearance on the shafts.
I have never poped a center drive out of the cup.....

[patrick scot]

Cool, I have yet to install my FOK - They have it at NYCH so I will pick it up this weekend. I also got those Losi King pin tires with the Losi beadlock rims. The ofna has been doing me well...i will put it through its paces tomorrow and Sunday. I will save it though for next week for sure ! (i wont beat on it that bad) . Btw, do you have the alum diff cases yet ? Check with me on the other stuff, I can get most of it for ya dirt cheap as you know. What is this site that you bought yours from ?
mark i pretty much have everthing for now. i bought it from crispcrittershobbyshop.com 499. plus 8 dollars for ground shipping. it has the 2005 truck of the year sticker. don't know if that even matters. pat

[Monsterbrad]

499 ????
The price finally drops
I might have to own another one but I will wait till they come out with the new .28 version which will be sometime soon I hope cause Dynamite has the new Mach .28 comming out :D

[markanda]

499 ????
The price finally drops
I might have to own another one but I will wait till they come out with the new .28 version which will be sometime soon I hope cause Dynamite has the new Mach .28 comming out :D

Pat shopped that truck out and I know he got the best price without even hooking up uncle sam !!! I asked them about the 28 when i returned my 26 motor and it is way down the lineI was told from the Dynamite people.The site said they would be out mid August (come and gone).

Pat - That sticker might mean "This truck is free of defects " lol

[Monsterbrad]

I hope so!
Mine seems to be pretty good so far!
but my other one had problems after about a gallon of fuel with breaking things.
Oh well I am trying not to bash things as hard as I get a little older LOL :D

[WorldOfNoise]

Hey, it's been a while! I shelved my truck for the summer, I am going to get back into it for the winter (if you want to call it that). Just one quick question for you all;

I've got one JR ds8611 for my steering, and I noticed that it didn't turn as well as with the stock servos. After contemplating this I came to the conclusion that the saver was the cause. The weak link.
My question is: What is a good heavy-duty saver to use, or should I chance it and go without?

[Ball Racing]

Kimbrough.