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winning edge designs
04-28-2006, 10:28 PM
I wouldn't be too worried about size, unless your just crushing cars. For racing or even bashing with your buddies it's all about performance and speed, size can be tweaked with tires and body hieght to make it look bigger, or course this also means flipping over easier, etc.
:D, Jim
JConcepts dot net
savagepicco26
04-30-2006, 10:13 AM
Are there any starter boxes for the revo that arent the rd racing one? Theres is 129.99, i was wondering if there was any other that works. LMK
Doug
i bought a Team Associated 10th scale starter box off ebay for $25. like this: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLZ9&P=7 then I bought the Native Racing conversion kit for $35. for $60, it works like a champ! http://mivasecure.abac.com/remotecontrolhobby/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RCH&Product_Code=STRT-RV-KIT&Category_Code=STRT
DarkSavage
04-30-2006, 01:14 PM
25$! what, You found that starter box cheap. Is the starter box alot better then the pullstart, since sometime in the future im going to get my revo running and im planning out stuff to get.
savagepicco26
04-30-2006, 04:17 PM
25$! what, You found that starter box cheap. Is the starter box alot better then the pullstart, since sometime in the future im going to get my revo running and im planning out stuff to get.
yeah, the starter box is the only dependable route, especially if you plan to race. i actually got the box, 2 6-cell batts and shipping for $25. it was kind of a fluke though. the dude misspelled 'starter' in the auction title and spelled it 'stater'. so whenever anyone searched for starter box, his auction didn't show up. bidding closed and i was the only one that bid (started at $25) and it was below his reserve price. he emailed and asked if i still wanted it for $25. i said hell yes! so even without getting that kind of a deal, you should still be able to get a box and convert it for less than $100. that still saves you $30 or more.
MikeWz
05-05-2006, 08:59 AM
Now the proud owner of a Revo 3.3. Any particular suggestions on getting it set-up for racing? I'm no stranger to trucks nor to racing. I've been racing for a number of years starting with a XXX-NT and currently am racing my MGT. I may "retire" that from racing and use it as a basher now though.
This truck is definitely a piece of art...but it's definitely going to be a royal pain to wrench on, that's why I was holding off on it, but when they came out with the 3.3 and had a center diff and even adjustable brake bias I HAD to get one.
winning edge designs
05-05-2006, 11:48 PM
Mike, most of us racers are removing the EZ start for a backplate and using a box, like Native or RD make.
Also the usual steering servo upgrade, I use one Air #360 servo. Some also use a Jammin CRT tank as well. Steve Slayden(AKA "Slaydaddy") has an awesome set up on the Traxxas site.
Remove reverse and it's included weight/items and go with the wide ratio gear set and your flyin!
:D, Jim
Jconcepts dot net
tagmann50
05-07-2006, 12:23 AM
Was having tuning problems with my new 2.5r for a few days and finally took it apart and found the bottom of the piston was chewed up on the bottom edge. I broke it in exactlty like the DVD and instructions said to do and always took very good care of her, never ran over 230-240 always did after run maintenace and after run oil every time after running! I bought the engine new on ebay though so even though it only had .5 galllons thru it I dont think traxxas would warranty it. Anyways I picked up a new OS 18TM and on my first tank after breaking it in I started hearing a clicky clack sound. I found the large gear inside the rear diff was missing 5 teeth and causing it to bind. Anyone have similar problems to any of this. I love the new OS though its crazy fast!
Mike as with anykind of racing speed cost money. Jim hit it dead on with the slaydon pitpass articles. I run a 3.3 14/38 closed ratio. P-2 Front and rear/gold springs 50k both. Airtronics 358z on my steering and 359z on my throttle. Since you have been racing you probably have a preference on tires and wheels so I'll leave that one alone
winning edge designs
05-07-2006, 09:11 PM
tagmann50, I haven't found any problems with a properly tuned and maintained engine yet, except normal wear after 7 or 8 gallons +, etc.
As far as gear durability my truck has been awesome, but I always make sure the slippper does something, even if it barely slips, I make sure it isn't locked down, this helps a TON!
atmo, you run on a smaller track and use the close ratio gears, which are great for them. Alot of the tracks here are open with 150+ foot straights, so wide ratio is the better here. Good point to mention, since I just assumed everyone was on big tracks like me, LOL.
First is the same in all the gear sets, but close ratio has a lower second and wide has a taller second gear final ratio.
...:), Jim
JConcepts dot net
MikeWz
05-07-2006, 09:56 PM
Well I've got the 3.3, so it comes with the wide ratio set anyway, which is pretty nice, but I feel like it shifts a little late from the factory...but maybe it's just mine.
Anyway, Jim were'd you get that wing and such for the Revo? I think that's pretty sweet, I'll have to pick one up
winning edge designs
05-07-2006, 11:11 PM
MikeWz, it is a Tekno wing mount and a Jammin truck wing. It works well so far after a half dozen races on it.
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
Actually it has a long straight 150+ with the wide ratio the 3.3 has alot of mid-high range and the squat is to much for my taste. Where I like my shift point the wide ratio has alot more kick then the closed ratio at shift point. The track I race at was the 1st one to have 5 foot jumps and 200 feet wide. When roar came to town they almost made them change it. Know it's the norm. I like a smoother transition from 1st-2nd when I go to the hammer. Jim I need to tell you I love my illusion body, I went with the .60 mill and it is great. I had to shoo goo alot around the tank i have the HPI 150cc and it's wider then the stock.
MikeWz
05-09-2006, 02:10 PM
Okay, trying to switch the crappy radio system over to my SRX (not much better...but at least it's a little better) and having some trouble. The steering servo works fine. My throttle servo seems to open the throttle fine, but when I try to apply brake the servo just kinda jitters. It doesn't seem to want to shift into reverse either. If I press the reverse button nothing happens, yet if I reverse the channel in the menu the servo moves too. Any ideas on what's up?
t9dragon
05-09-2006, 03:27 PM
You could have a bad servo..........
MikeWz
05-09-2006, 04:21 PM
Nah, it's not the servo. It works fine with the stock radio, just not with my SRX. That's why I can't figure it out
t9dragon
05-09-2006, 04:25 PM
I would just replace the servo then.
MikeWz
05-09-2006, 04:57 PM
I'm not really sure why I'd have to replace the servo. When I had the Traxxas radio hooked up it's fine. Then, I had my SRX hooked up and channel 3 doesn't work (someone said I need to turn it on...not sure how to do that though because I don't have my manual anymore), and Channel 2 won't apply brakes. Now I have the Traxxas radio in again and everything works fine. The servo can't possibly be malfunctioning
t9dragon
05-09-2006, 05:51 PM
Isn't the SRX a digital radio? Is everything else still stock on the truck?
MikeWz
05-09-2006, 07:00 PM
I'm not sure if it's digital or not...but I'm using the reciever that comes with the the SRX. I had it in my MGT and it worked fine with those servos, so I'm not sure what's up here
winning edge designs
05-10-2006, 08:39 AM
atmo, Glad you dig it! Our next Revo (3.3) body will account for that in it's design, ;).
MikeWz, have you checked your end points, it may be the low is set too low to move the servo if eveything else works normally?
...Jim
JConcepts dot net
MikeWz
05-10-2006, 09:56 PM
Anyone else feel like maybe the clutch shoes on the 3.3 are set to engage too early? Or perhaps have a slipping problem. I feel like I've got my LSN set pretty well. A decent amount of smoke, running pretty good. However, when I let the motor RPMs drop, then nail the gas it makes a sound almost like it's running lean. It'll rev a little, then drop rpms back down and then the smoke will start to come out(I don't feel like it's high enough rpms for the HSN to really be effecting it). I've been doing this for quite a few years now and have gotten pretty good at tuning...but I've never encountered this before. Perhaps I need to weight the shoes a little to have them engage later?
winning edge designs
05-10-2006, 10:25 PM
Mike, you may want to try trimming material away to "lighten" the shoes for later engagement.
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
MikeWz
05-10-2006, 10:50 PM
Haha yeah...that's what I meant :p
Did any one else here have to do that to theirs?
BigBoy
05-13-2006, 02:06 AM
I'm not really sure why I'd have to replace the servo. When I had the Traxxas radio hooked up it's fine. Then, I had my SRX hooked up and channel 3 doesn't work (someone said I need to turn it on...not sure how to do that though because I don't have my manual anymore), and Channel 2 won't apply brakes. Now I have the Traxxas radio in again and everything works fine. The servo can't possibly be malfunctioning
You need to adjust your radio. I just installed my xs3 in a Revo 3.3 and had to readjust all of the end points, and trims. You can find a manual for it http://www.jrradios.com/ProdInfo/Files/jrp317227-manual.pdf
darrell675
05-14-2006, 12:07 AM
what do you guys think would be a good racing motor for under $300. yeah I know the 3.3's are out but from what I've seen there not as great as they seemed they should be. I know a couple of guys are running the os max .18tm motors in there revos and leaving other people with 3.3's in the dust. are there any other motors you guys think for under $300 that may be as good or better than the 3.3? by the way I have a revo that I want to put one of these motors in.
I use to run the os and loved them. But I have switch to the 3.3 and use them exclusively. I did keep 1 of my Tm but it has set on the shelf ever since I switched. The 3.3 is stronger then the os.18tm. The tz is a different type of motor and it didn't seem to have as much punch as the tm on the bottom. You could jump to a bigblock. The rb, sirio or the picco. But for the money the 3.3 is a good little motor. Once you go to a bigblock you start having trouble with your tranny and diffs the plastic gears just don't hold up to anything over 2.0hp very well.
marctroy
05-14-2006, 08:32 AM
I broke in my TZ2.5R properly and got great performance from it. Then I sucummed to the need for more power and installed the O.S. 18 with a Fantom carbon fiber exhaust. O.S. makes great engines and they're really "forgiving" when it comes to tuning! Then, again, I got hit by the more power "bug" and got the RB 323 and now I think I have more power than I actually need (if that's possible...)
winning edge designs
05-14-2006, 12:44 PM
I had a big block Revo and it was silly to try and race, wheelies and even flipping over backwards, etc. For bashing it may be fun, but it was a terrible race truck with soooo much motor.
I have recently run a 18tm and the 3.3 and the 3.3 needs a later clutch engagement, but after that is has more power and rpm then the O.S. does.
All good motors, but any more seems like overkill unless your doing blasts back and forth in a parking lot, not sure how long that will remain fun though???
...:D, Jim
Jconcepts dot net
darrell675
05-14-2006, 08:01 PM
I'll be strictly racing the revo at crc raceway in Rome NY. so thats why I wanted to see what are good racing motors and I don't need a power house just something that has good bottom end punch.
winning edge designs
05-14-2006, 08:51 PM
darrell, That would make me lean on either the 18TM or the 3.3, they are about as much power as can be managable in a 9-10lb truck.
It's really a coin toss, but the 3.3 seems to keep pulling on long straights when both are properly tuned, imo.
...Jim
jconcepts dot net
darrell675
05-14-2006, 09:25 PM
the track is more technical than anything, it has one lone straight but thats it the rest of the track consists of double and triple jumps, chicanes, whoops, and most of the turns are 90-180deg. So I'm looking for an engine with the punch to get me through the tough sections quick.
MikeWz
05-14-2006, 09:44 PM
If you've got the 3.3, grind away a little bit from the beveled section on the inside of the shoes (the part against the flywheel). I did this and it helped a lot. A lot snappier off the line, I could see it being almost hard to control out of corners. Gonna be a lot of slipper work with this truck. Almost as much so as the NT is :o
winning edge designs
05-14-2006, 10:28 PM
Ditto!
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
rcEJL
05-14-2006, 10:29 PM
any 1 know of a good big block to put in a revo
darrell675
05-15-2006, 12:38 AM
most of the guys at my track are running the standard size 23mm hex velocity dish wheels from proline and crime fighter MT tires seem to hook up really good. what do you guys think of those?
savagepicco26
05-15-2006, 05:45 AM
most of the guys at my track are running the standard size 23mm hex velocity dish wheels from proline and crime fighter MT tires seem to hook up really good. what do you guys think of those?
i prefer the wabash rims due to the offset, but either way 40's are the way to go. less sidewall flex and better handling. tire selection depends on the dirt at your track. crimefighter MT 40's or bowtie 40's are good all around tires.
I run the Cfs mts with RPM offsets, they hook up great. I'm not a fan off the 40 series tires you loose to much of your turning. I saw some of the Traxxas guys took the wabash rims and trimmed the back off about a 1/4 inch and put the s-maxx foams in over pythons mts. They cut down the side wall of the pythons and stretched them over a 40 series cut down wheel. They looked like the hook-up. The problem is traxxas doesn't sell the foams seperate yet. They told me they were getting ready to and should be available next month. It all depends on your driving style. I am extremely aggresive and drive hard in and through turns so the Cfs mts fit my style. The Bowties have great forward bite but very little side bite. The 40 series just limit my turning more then I like but I see guys run them all the time. The 23mm hexs are hard on your bearings if you run them I would recomend you get the rd axle carriers with the bigger bearing.
kawasakirider
05-15-2006, 09:45 AM
Does the revo come with 14 mm hexes? If so does that mean i can run all the revo style rims on my sav? KOOL i thought max and revo had different hexes
MikeWz
05-15-2006, 11:48 AM
If you're talking about the pro-line 23mm HD hexes, I'd say they're a giant waste of money. There should be no real way you're stripping out the hex on the rims unless they're real old. People were talking about getting them for the heavier trucks, but even on MGT I haven't ever had a well hex strip and that's the heaviest they come (other than the CEN truck I guess).
Just throw on some wide-max rims and get some bow-ties or the new crime fighters
t9dragon
05-15-2006, 12:37 PM
Does the revo come with 14 mm hexes? If so does that mean i can run all the revo style rims on my sav? KOOL i thought max and revo had different hexes
Yes, you can run the Revo wheels on your Savage.
savagepicco26
05-15-2006, 08:39 PM
Yes, you can run the Revo wheels on your Savage.
yep. sure can. and i do. waaaayyyy better than stock savy wheels.
bullett1818
05-17-2006, 03:26 PM
Ok guys I just got my Revo back together, had to put new engine mounts in. My gear mesh is set good and all but it really doenst go anywhere. If I try to take off slow it will go but if I just gun it and try to go, its like it's just slipping. Any ideas?
-Bob-
Frshtrax
05-17-2006, 03:30 PM
1.Slipper clutch too loose (most likely the cause)
2.clutch bell shoes not engaging properly
Ok guys I just got my Revo back together, had to put new engine mounts in. My gear mesh is set good and all but it really doenst go anywhere. If I try to take off slow it will go but if I just gun it and try to go, its like it's just slipping. Any ideas?
-Bob-
bullett1818
05-17-2006, 03:55 PM
1.Slipper clutch too loose (most likely the cause)
2.clutch bell shoes not engaging properly
It was option number A. I wasnt thinking and when the engine mounts broke the spur stripped, and for some reason when I put the new spur on, I loosened the slipper ALOT. Got it fixed now though and lovin it! Thanks.
-Bob-
MikeWz
05-17-2006, 11:33 PM
To all of you guys that have the 3.3
You NEED to grind away a small portion of the inside of the clutch shoes. Pull them off (keep the shoes intact with the spring still holding them together), and take note of which way them came off (leading edge or trailing edge, which ever way you had them). You'll see a beveled section on the inner circle of the shoes. Grind away a small amount in there from both shoes on the side that's going against the fly-wheel. Makes a HUGE difference. You don't need a lot, just a little bit. I can't even describe what kind of difference this makes. You'll definitely have to loosen your slipper up to keep the front wheels on the ground now when running on pavement.
Frshtrax
05-18-2006, 12:04 PM
you mean to tell me that my kick@$$ 3.3 has been robbed of power?
I can't imagine seeing it go any faster :):):) :D
Definately give it a shot though. What's are the details behind trimming the clutch shoes?
MikeWz
05-18-2006, 03:14 PM
I'll get some pictures of it and photoshop in some arrows for you so you can see exactly what I'm talking about
Frshtrax
05-18-2006, 03:19 PM
are talking about Slayden's clutch mod? I have seen it, just have not done it yet.
winning edge designs
05-18-2006, 10:43 PM
Steve "Slaydaddies" clutch mod works well, any way you choose to lighten the shoes will help bottom end, if you need longer or nasty'r wheelies, LOL.
You can also shorten the spring 6 or 8 coils and rebend the end loop, but this requires a steady hand. I like it because it is more repeatable though, imo.
Have fun!
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
darrell675
05-19-2006, 04:19 PM
will these mods work on a 2.5r also or not?
MikeWz
05-20-2006, 12:10 AM
Yeah it's the slayden "mod". If you've got the 3.3 do it. I used a conical grinding bit in my dremel and just lightly went over them and took off just a little. Works awesome
Not sure if it'll work the same for the 2.5R though. If you're truck has a tendancy to drop RPMs a little when you romp the gas from a stand-still...yet your low-end is still fairly rich, chances are it's the same deal and the mod will work
I was wondering what bodies you guys are running? i was looking at the pro line crowd pleazer but it dosent fit the 3.3. and the one for the mgt is was too long.
Links would be nice =]
Thanks,
xaM
Straick
05-27-2006, 01:04 PM
I have the 2.5r in mine. almost 2 gallons of fuel through it now. I'm currently running 20% in it with all but the radio being fully stock. I was wondering if there is a pipe that will give it more power and where to get them. Thanks
winning edge designs
05-27-2006, 05:48 PM
xaM, we are working on a new body for the 3.3, but I think right now the only one available is the stock body. I was able to get our JConcepts illuzion Revo body on the truck with a little creative engineering.
I removed the front bumper and drilled the rear body mounts 8mm further back. I also then drilled the front mounts about 20-22mm further forward from the origional marks. You can double check using a light under the body to mark the holes with a sharpie, etc.
A correct easily mounted body will be out soon from several compainies i'm sure!
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
winning edge designs
05-27-2006, 05:49 PM
Straick, I use the aftermarket polished Traxxas pipe on mine when I ran the 2.5, it also works well with the 3.3 if you upgrade!
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
bullett1818
05-27-2006, 07:54 PM
Ok I love My Revo 3.3 but I keep having problems with breaking rear suspension parts. First one of the push rod ends stripped out, then a push rod end on the other side and now today I broke my shock shaft. I guess thats just the way things go but Grrr...
-Bob-
bullett1818
05-27-2006, 07:55 PM
And one more.
-Bob-
winning edge designs
05-27-2006, 08:51 PM
Bob, I have broken those items also. But I did it over jumps that had my truck in the air about 10-12 feet and landed on one rear wheel after touching another truck in mid air, LOL.
I think it's only going to take so much abuse, imo. :D
...Jim
jconcepts dot net
darrell675
05-28-2006, 09:35 PM
XAM I put a pl chevy silverado offroad concept body on my 2.5r revo they say its for a t-maxx but look at the pick and you can see it fits perfect. and STRAICK I put a trinity high flow pipe and manifold on my revo and it gave me better low end and top end also if you like a loud deep sounding exhuast get that one.
darrell675
05-28-2006, 09:36 PM
here is another pic that shows the trinity exhuast.
dISCOdAN
06-01-2006, 07:38 AM
Gotta love the power that Trinity pipe makes, but I have removed mine, all the guys at the track were getting to hate my Revo lol. I'll admit it is pretty ear peircingly loud. Now I'm running an Imex pipe, but it doesnt matter, my TM18 makes more than enough power even with the stock 2.5r pipe on it.
RiderZ
06-04-2006, 09:54 PM
Heres my Revo with a Proline 72' Chevy body!!! :D
winning edge designs
06-04-2006, 11:13 PM
Sweet truck, the Retro bodies are really cool too, I dig em'!
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
darrell675
06-04-2006, 11:17 PM
here is the lastest updates to my revo:
pl hd 23mm velocity dish wheels
pl crime fighter mt tires
pl 23mm hexes
integy blue aluminum pushrods
GH silver aluminum servo guards
darrell675
06-04-2006, 11:18 PM
here is another pic
darrell675
06-04-2006, 11:20 PM
and 1 more. my truck right now is 17.5 inches wide.
Jayweezy
06-04-2006, 11:54 PM
Does the 3.3 or OS 18 TM have the power to keep me in the mix with big block trucks like the LST2 and Savage X? I am going to move up in class at my track and I will be the only Revo. Track is small and tight but I guess you can say that i'm kinda iffy on power cause I can't get out of turns quick enough against these heavy trucks and I'm gettin hammered. I've already had to replace my front arms (both sides) twice.
darrell675
06-04-2006, 11:59 PM
from what I've seen at my track the revo's with the os.18tm's and the 3.3's outpower the lst2's and savages in both overall speed and low end punch. my local track is also tight and has 1 long straight.
winning edge designs
06-05-2006, 08:34 AM
At our local track in Tampa the 3.3 Revos have won in the 1/8th scale truck class!
They sometimes run together when there are less then 5 monster trucks. 20 total entries, so the Revo beat everything from ST-R's to Jammin's, etc. Driving is still a BIG factor.
They are lighter have better suspension then most monster trucks and the 3.3 is a .20, so they work!
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
darrell675
06-05-2006, 01:05 PM
I've dropped a total of 1.5lbs of my truck so far and I plan on getting rid of the ez-start and using a bump box to get rid of alittle more weight.
winning edge designs
06-05-2006, 09:58 PM
Here is a pic of my Revo from our Florida State race recently....
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/838/revoocalarace062tr.jpg
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
Jayweezy
06-05-2006, 10:36 PM
I just got a 3.3. Waiting for tomorrow to break it in. I also picked up a Mach 427 just for kicks.
MikeWz
06-12-2006, 04:00 PM
Jim - Any idea of a possible release date for the Illusionz 3.3 Body? I need something new to paint :D
Frshtrax
06-12-2006, 04:11 PM
I am in the process of painting an LST proline CP 2.0 body. it looks just right for the 3.3 with extended chassis and arms. I'll post a pick when I am done. Might be a week or two though.
winning edge designs
06-12-2006, 10:45 PM
Mike, LOL, we are underway on it, so it shouldn't be too much longer. I won't get too carried away and tell you the standard of the industry "2 weeks", HA.
I have the first version on my 3.3 and it takes a little patience, but it fits awesome after a littel dremel work.
The rear mounts are 1/4 inch further back and the front mounts are about an inch or so further forward, or the remainder of the new length difference. They end up on the edges of the hood bulge and required dremeling off the molded in washer and it fots like butta'!
....Jim
winning edge designs
06-12-2006, 10:46 PM
Spell check please!
LOL, Jim
Wheel Extensions ??
has anyone heard of wheel extensions in 23mm ?
i have only seen them in 17mm and 1 inch per side.
actually i was looking for 23mm and 1/2 inch.
winning edge designs
06-26-2006, 11:05 PM
I have not seen adapter extensions, since they make wheels with offsets in every size hex. I use 23mm adapters from Dace and 1/2 inch offset wheels.
...Jim
jconcepts dot net
i think these are 17mm size.
http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=47000&type=store
i start looking for wheels with more offset.
You can get the Qoncepts axle extensions but they are rear only and they say they will work with the extended rear arms
kojak61
07-10-2006, 02:21 PM
I have a revo with stock gearring and a TRX 2.5R. The track I race has a double triple coming out of a turn. I want a quicker acceleration out of the corner. What gearing should I run? The track is a very technical track.
__________________
www.tallahasseerc.com
winning edge designs
07-10-2006, 09:32 PM
Telly, run a 40 spur and a 15 clutch bell for good "snap". You can also remove a little material from the clutch shoes for added "snap" during acceleration if more is needed. This wil bring the engine higher into the revs before the clutch "Hits".
Remove about an 1/8 inch at an angle at first and see what you think and if it is enough. (Like this..... long end of shoe>... l-\Shoe-pin end, from the end opposite the pin the shoe pivots on). .......................cut ^ here at the \
Hope this helps, Jim
jconcepts dot net
kojak61
07-11-2006, 09:36 AM
Does the resonator pipe work well? Or is the THS pipe a better deal. I may get 3.3 when the 2.5r dies.
winning edge designs
07-11-2006, 10:05 PM
I use the Optional Traxxas pipe, I forget the number but it is a direct fit and highly polished. It works awesome!
...Jim
jconcepts dot net
DarkSavage
07-12-2006, 10:01 AM
Alright guys imma join you on this forum since i just got my revo rebuilt and ready to race. dont mind my username lol
T-EVO RACER
07-14-2006, 12:10 AM
To everybody who runs the center diff in their revo, what diff. fluid/weight do you run???? thanx in advance.
DarkSavage
07-14-2006, 12:59 AM
my friends who have revos witht he center diffs didnt like the center diff so much for onroad, but i think your suppose to run like 3k or something around that area. how do you like the diff?
MikeWz
07-14-2006, 03:38 PM
There's no real right or wrong for what diff fluid you should run. For center diff, 3K sounds about right as a starting point. As a general rule of thumb, here is how different weight oils in particular diffs effect the handling of the truck
in the front diff...
thinner = more offpower steering into the corners
thicker = better stability going into the corners under breaking, more on power steering at corner exit..
NOTES: If oil is too thin.. steering will become inconsistant and lose forward traction and steering during acceleration out of corners
Center diff
thinner = decreases on power steering, easier to drive on rough tracks
thicker = better on power steering, car is more nervous especially with high power engines. has better acceleration, and a more all wheel drive effect (better suited for high bite smooth tracks)
NOTES: Center too thin.. you could cook the oil.. causing it to overload, ways to know.. is oil smells when you change it.
rear diff
thinner = better corner traction, and better steering into the corners
thicker = decreases rear traction while cornering, reduces wheel spin
DarkSavage
07-14-2006, 11:16 PM
Good information mike. thanks im thinking about getting one off my friend. how does that rear brake feel?
tagmann50
07-16-2006, 11:11 AM
Has anybody used the rd logics cvd set for the Revo? I noticed some play when I wiggle the tires and the only place I can figure it is coming from is the driveshafts.
DarkSavage
07-16-2006, 01:32 PM
Does anyone have problems with 23mms? when you screw the 14mm nut on it comes off easily after a tank, ive tried locititing it but i havnt seen if it works good yet.
chrisoneal
07-16-2006, 02:16 PM
I used the Rd logics shafts and they broke after about a half a gallon. ANd i used the red loctite on the 23mm both blue nut and the center nut. Never had a problem after that with them.
savagepicco26
07-16-2006, 06:01 PM
Does anyone have problems with 23mms? when you screw the 14mm nut on it comes off easily after a tank, ive tried locititing it but i havnt seen if it works good yet.
mine haven't come off yet.
The Cd comes w/100k and it is way to lite. I have tried everything from 100-500k. It unloads with everything upto the 350-400k mark. I'm currently running 400k and it has been the best set-up so far. 30-400-30 is my current set-up. Front and rears with the CD I tried front 50-20k rear 40-7k and it reacts best for me and my style with the 30-40k both front and rear. Anything under 300k is a waste of time.
Does anyone have problems with 23mms? when you screw the 14mm nut on it comes off easily after a tank, ive tried locititing it but i havnt seen if it works good yet
I use a little plumbers tape. It holds well and I use it on my axle carriers as well it holds my camber longer. There is no residual build-up it doesn't bind.
DarkSavage
07-17-2006, 11:32 AM
Good thinking thanks.
DarkSavage
07-17-2006, 11:34 AM
well ivve tested it before and the 14mm nut didnt come off. so hopefully this worked. so whats the best for diffs like 300k, i race onroad so that might be different
Anything under 300k and the CD unloads. One thing I didn't mention was taping your tires. It helps with the over diffing. @ 400k I was able to set my shift point where it would shift within 10 feet of a dead stop and it didn't unload. I realy didn't notice any difference between 400-500k so I went with the lower mixture. One thing I will say after I had the CD worked out I started breaking in a motor doing figure eights. I noticed how my rear end was reacting and as I let of the throttle I had some squat. When i came to a complete stop my rear ride hieght was level. It got me thinking so I went up on my rear diff weight. I had and extra diff with 30k and put it in. My front had 30k in as well. This is where it gets interesting. Now when I let off of the throttle she levels out which is what I'm after going into a turn. Revos have a bad squat to begin with and this has helped a bunch. If you race on payment which is where I 1st started tweaking this process it should help.
DarkSavage
07-20-2006, 06:29 PM
Well tried out the revo today, and man its on rails, the suspension setup is awesome for onroad. i use 45wt with silver and blue springs, with p2 rockers
dpk136
07-20-2006, 10:32 PM
Where do you get the different pistons for the shocks. anyone have any links.
darrell675
07-21-2006, 01:06 AM
updated pic of my revo.
DarkSavage
07-21-2006, 02:45 AM
nice. i gotta get smaller tires since my 40 series are to much for the 2.5 but heres mine while im at it.http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a57/losiracer13/revo/DSCF0479.jpg
single servo
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a57/losiracer13/revo/DSCF0480.jpg
dpk136
07-21-2006, 02:50 PM
Has anyone ever seen this car tuning guide
http://users.pandora.be/elvo/
darrell,
Thats is a pretty slick lookin Revo
darksavage,
I have your first pic as my screan saver :)
I am looking for a Revo now.
Whats the difference between the 2.5 and the 3.3?
Thanks
savagepicco26
07-21-2006, 11:03 PM
I am looking for a Revo now.
Whats the difference between the 2.5 and the 3.3?
Thanks
3.3 has bigger engine and longer chassis mainly. get the 3.3
savagepicco26
07-21-2006, 11:04 PM
updated pic of my revo.
dye the arms red and it would be sick!
Originally Posted by savagepicco26
3.3 has bigger engine and longer chassis mainly. get the 3.3
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. 3.3 it is:)
DarkSavage
07-22-2006, 03:32 PM
Todays race day sucked as i was unloading the stuff from the car my grama backs up and runs over my rims! ,23mm veloctity rims, bogus now i need to buy a new rim.
:eek: thats sux, did anything else get run over(hope not)
heres a random and maybe even a stupid question.
Why are Revos considered MTs?
How come they are not considered Truggies?
Just a bit of curiousity :)
Thanks
winning edge designs
07-22-2006, 08:45 PM
Darksavage, respect for the grandma!!! No matter what!
Tig, the Revo has a transmission and the center drive output is also below the chassis.
A truggie has a center diff only and it is above the chassis with a MUCH lower CG.
....Jim
jconcepts dot net
ah ha,
Thanks Jim, I appreciate it
DarkSavage
07-23-2006, 04:08 AM
I kinda disrespected her because im only 16 with no job and i dont have money for a new rim so i kinda flipped out on her, and its also since im on new supplements for working out that opens up your veins more. so that makes me get very mad easily. its just the rim, i put the stock ones back on. so its good for now, i need a new spur i stipped it today also jumping.
I hope you applogized after, hugs and kisses for Grandma :)
Be carefull with any supplement. Being 16, you are young enough to build bulk naturally, its all about what you consume.
I was reading about Robinsons metal gear set today, looks like a future mod Dark.
Do you guys recommend the single servo for steering? If so what servo is up for the task? Or can you use the stock one.
Thanks
savagepicco26
07-23-2006, 11:09 AM
I kinda disrespected her because im only 16 with no job and i dont have money for a new rim so i kinda flipped out on her, and its also since im on new supplements for working out that opens up your veins more. so that makes me get very mad easily. its just the rim, i put the stock ones back on. so its good for now, i need a new spur i stipped it today also jumping.
you have money for supplements but not for rims? if it's NO2 or something like that, a bottle of that stuff would easily pay for new rims.
dpk136
07-23-2006, 12:04 PM
Why do people switch to one servo for steering? Is it for weight loss? I would think that having 2 servos with a lot of power would make steering better. Can someone please explain the theory behind this?
balang_479
07-23-2006, 03:22 PM
Yeah having on strong servo is enough, it reduces weight and if you have one metal gear servo it wont ever brake and should be strong enough for anything (8-13kg) so why have two. But mainly weight, the monster truck are like fat ladies
DarkSavage
07-24-2006, 01:14 PM
you have money for supplements but not for rims? if it's NO2 or something like that, a bottle of that stuff would easily pay for new rims.
No its better then xyience. its about 64 for a small bottle its called pump fuel/nitric oxide.. but back to rc talk...
I use Single servo and i thinks its better since its less weight, and more power going to the servo then splitting it between the 2.
Jim, how much longer until the new 3.3 revo body available? I was hoping to use the new body this summer. I love mine now it still works great but it's had 3 months of racing and practice, she's starting to show some abuse. I switched to the kyosho tank and it fits without rubbing. I have my picco in now and with the spider tank there should be no issues I just want to put a new lid on her.
Where do you get the different pistons for the shocks. anyone have any links.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/3423
Has anyone swapped out the E-start for a pull starter? I like the idea of the E-start but, I am more for the pull starter(go figure).
How much weight will it save by taking the E-start off, did anyone notice a difference in performance.
I am also looking at replacing the spur/clutchbell with Robinsons set. Whats the stock count of teeth for each? I am looking at 40 Spur and 16 Clutchbell.
Thanks
winning edge designs
08-02-2006, 09:04 PM
atmo, We are getting close on the Revo body. Hopefully within 4-6 weeks, maybe less?
For shock parts I buy locally, Traxxas brand parts. I use JR hobbies in Kissimmee Florida. They have a website if you do a google. Tell them I referred you, it might help?
Tig, I use a starter box from Native racing. It is the best way to go for performance. The pullstart will help a little, but only because of the weigth savings.
....Jim
Jconcepts dot net
I just picked up a 3.3 :D. I am excited, I should get it early next week.
Just thought I would let every one now.
I am also picking up a spur and clutchbell set.
Later
Straick
08-05-2006, 10:02 PM
I have a pull starter on my REVO. It does save a lot of weight, just make sure that the engine is properly tuned or you'll spend all day trying to start it;)
On the one servo thing, I have a metal geared servo with the aluminum servo arm(total of 4 stripped servos and numerous arms before I got the metal gear). It hasn't stripped out yet, and even better is the fact that the servos aren't fighting anymore. Great truck to bash with, especially when you run over(yes, I really did) the other guys buggie when he tries to cut you off. Enjoy.
Thanks for the info Straick.
What servo would be up to the task for the steering?
I have one more question. I think I made a bobo. I ordered a Robinson Hardened Spur and clutchbell set. What I didnt realize was it said it was for a Revo 2.5, well I have a 3.3.
Will this gear set work for a 3.3 or just for a 2.5.
Thanks
Thanks for the info Straick.
What servo would be up to the task for the steering?
I have one more question. I think I made a bobo. I ordered a Robinson Hardened Spur and clutchbell set. What I didnt realize was it said it was for a Revo 2.5, well I have a 3.3.
Will this gear set work for a 3.3 or just for a 2.5.
Thanks
I use the airtronics 358z on my steering side works great. The difference in the 2.5r and 3.3 tranny are for the center diff and rear brake. The front for your spur is still the same so no problems with the RR spur.
Tig... I use a pullstar when breaking in a motor and then switch to a starter box. I like having the feel for the motor on breakins and once she loosens up I pull the owb and use the pullstart as a backplate. I've gotten lazy but typically I keep 3-4 motors going at once so it's a pain to dremel each one.
winning edge designs
08-06-2006, 09:20 PM
True, a good metal gear high torque servo is a first hop up!
Also for little to no money check out Steve Slaydens "tricks" on the traxxas dot com site.
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
Thanks guys, I appreciate it.
Wow, I took out my Revo for the first time today. Whooo what a hand full, that suspension is soo soft, on the street. I rolled'er about 4 times. The last one was the killer, it broke one of the starter wires:(. Next time its off to the Sand and Gravel Pit.
The articulation is awesome, I cant wait to see it really work in the dirt.
For the guys with there Revos set-up for street.
Whats a good stiff set-up that you would recommend. I would like to try it out.
Thanks
Straick
08-07-2006, 03:40 PM
I just switched to 33nitro on mine. It has a CNC head and Trinity pipe(without plug) on the 2.5 motor. It takes off like a bat out of H***. It just has one problem now. I keep burning out the glow plugs on one to three tanks of fuel. I am currently running a OS A3 plug(worked great on 20nitro). Also, does anyone make a metal gear for on the slipper with 36t. Any help would be greatly appreciated. One hop up that they need to make is a full roll cage(to protect the head from damage). I have been making my own out of brass tubing, but it doesn't always last too long(that's what you get for playing in gravel pits). Next one, make it out or rod instead. Once it's done, I'll post a picture of it.
I was thinking of making a roll cage out of SS. I am going to look into it.
savagepicco26
08-07-2006, 05:46 PM
I just switched to 33nitro on mine. It has a CNC head and Trinity pipe(without plug) on the 2.5 motor. It takes off like a bat out of H***. It just has one problem now. I keep burning out the glow plugs on one to three tanks of fuel. I am currently running a OS A3 plug(worked great on 20nitro). Also, does anyone make a metal gear for on the slipper with 36t. Any help would be greatly appreciated. One hop up that they need to make is a full roll cage(to protect the head from damage). I have been making my own out of brass tubing, but it doesn't always last too long(that's what you get for playing in gravel pits). Next one, make it out or rod instead. Once it's done, I'll post a picture of it.
if you're running 33% nitro, you need a cooler plug. i'd go with either a #8 or better yet, an A5.
BullyDawg
08-07-2006, 05:53 PM
I have a Question...I bought a black pair of pushrods for my revo that are P3 and My rockers are P1 90t, Will they work together?
Can anyone tell me a good set-up for the street. I am new to the whole Revo suspension, P1, P2, P3, I have no clue what any of that means. I am looking to stiffen up my ride, thats all I know, lol.
Thanks
savagepicco26
08-07-2006, 06:14 PM
Can anyone tell me a good set-up for the street. I am new to the whole Revo suspension, P1, P2, P3, I have no clue what any of that means. I am looking to stiffen up my ride, thats all I know, lol.
Thanks
i think darksavage has a revo he races on the road.
winning edge designs
08-07-2006, 10:29 PM
Tig, the long travel set up (included with the Revo, but not installed) is the farthest from what you want.
The P1 comes on the truck, P2 is most common for racers, P3 is for smooth tracks, or even on road if on road monster truck is your bag.
I would also add spacers (.060 -.125) inside the shocks, under the pistons to remove travel for on road, as well as look into some sway bars, or make your own. Panther, Imex and Proline make on road tires I have seen for the Revo too.
....Jim
Jconcepts dot net
psiturbo
08-09-2006, 11:19 PM
I read most replies to see more info for servo setups...
Well, I did it- $515.00 including tax and the RTR REVO w/ 3.3 is now mine.
Follow all instructions by the book, its amazing how much effort to attention to detail is given to offer a high quality Nitro Truck. I was just stoked when opening the box; extra springs, arms, DVD video, step by step COLOR book (not some cheap copy like other companies), charger, receiver rechargeable battery, fail safe, set of tools, plus a 1-800 number... Simply amazing and for the price cant be any happier.
The question is; I have the 2055 steering servos and sometimes no matter how much I do the factory settings the servos tend to "sound" like if they were trying to fight each other.
Is this normal?
Will the servos burn-out by doing this?
Any suggestions?
winning edge designs
08-10-2006, 09:11 PM
psiturbo, The servo buzz you hear is normal with the weight of the truck on the ground the servo's are trying to find nuetral. Lift the front off the ground and the noise should diminish or even completely go away.
When the truck is moving this isn't an issue, since there is less load on the servo when finding nuetral then sitting in one spot with the engine off.
Hope this helps,
Jim
Thanks winning edge, I appreciate the info.
Where would you find the spacers for the shocks?
Heres a parts list so far.
Center diff
rear brake kit
close ratio 2 speed
convert to 23mm wheels
swap out to a pull starter
convert to forward only
steering mod
If I missed anything feel free to add in.
Thanks
winning edge designs
08-12-2006, 04:48 PM
Tig, I would use some 1/8th scale shock spacers, like the ones from Mugen or Ofna. Try 3.5mm ones from .060 or thicker.
You can also remove the booties from the pillow balls in front for more steering throw after the normal steering mods.
Other then that it looks like your headed in the right direction. :D
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
Thanks Jim, I appreciate the help.
Off to the LHS
Later
DarkSavage
08-16-2006, 12:11 AM
Tig, I would use some 1/8th scale shock spacers, like the ones from Mugen or Ofna. Try 3.5mm ones from .060 or thicker.
You can also remove the booties from the pillow balls in front for more steering throw after the normal steering mods.
Other then that it looks like your headed in the right direction. :D
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
How much does this help? i did the single servo, on arm mod. i dremeled out that one peice and i got steering but how much more steering can you get?
winning edge designs
08-16-2006, 11:13 PM
Taking off the boots adds about 1 to 1.5 degrees of steering throw. It does require more maintenance though.
I would try it as is and see if you even need to add any more throw. Most racers are fine with the mods you have done already.
:), Jim
Jconcepts dot net
DarkSavage
08-17-2006, 12:21 AM
Yeah, i found out i snapped a a arm, i think i snapped it a while ago just really never noticed it. Because i ran into a tire and i heard a snap but i didnt see anthing.
bullett1818
08-17-2006, 05:38 PM
I tore down my revo 3.3 last night and found a screw missing from the spur gear and from the skid plate. I never locktighted any of the screws but I will on re assembly. I see proline announced a crowd pleazer 2.0 for the revo 3.3. Good timing my body is about shot!
-Bob-
Hey guys, I dont have am owners manual for my Revo and its running like poop. I bought it used. Can someone tell me what the stock settings are.
Thanks
Top 4 rotates out 360 degrees bottom flush with inside socket
http://www.rcdocuments.com/
I think they have the revo owners manual in there
Thanks atmo, I appreciate it. Hopefully it wont take too long to get it right. I would like to take'er out this weekend.
Later
bullett1818
08-17-2006, 11:22 PM
Hey guys, I dont have am owners manual for my Revo and its running like poop. I bought it used. Can someone tell me what the stock settings are.
Thanks
you can also view the entire manual on traxxas web site! works great!
-Bob-
psiturbo
08-19-2006, 03:21 AM
psiturbo, The servo buzz you hear is normal with the weight of the truck on the ground the servo's are trying to find nuetral. Lift the front off the ground and the noise should diminish or even completely go away.
When the truck is moving this isn't an issue, since there is less load on the servo when finding nuetral then sitting in one spot with the engine off.
Hope this helps,
Jim
After some tanks of fuel and finally breaking-in the engine the sound from servos is totally gone.
For now the only thing done to the 3.3 is a fuel filter and a dust cover for the electric starter made out of A/C filter. For the suspension used rubber fuel line tubing in the front side of all the control arms to protect it from hits and on the connecting rods.
Went and did a few jumps in a construction site and I was very impressed how stable it is once in the air. I like running the clutch a little loose and thought I was going to have issues when climbing but thats not the case with the REVO.
I am very pleased with the purchase even if it is not a 1/8 scale. My impression was the truck was going to handle very harsch and very bumpy just to find out the horizontal suspension is awesome. Maybe later I will do a few mods and install a BB.
DarkSavage
08-19-2006, 03:28 AM
Yea, good to hear someones enjoying the revo
winning edge designs
08-19-2006, 10:23 AM
psiturbo, Glad it is going well for you.
Be carefull how loose the slipper is set, if it is too loose it may allow the spur to heat adn soften, in extreme cases it will cause failure of the spur gear.
Of course too tight is also bad, :)!
The suspension on the Revo is second to none! Try out the included optional LT rockers and pushrods for really good rock and hill climbing!
If you street race, you can get some P3 rockers and go to the outer arm holes with the pushrods too!
....Jim
Jconcepts dot net
XR Mugen
08-19-2006, 10:41 PM
Hey there:
I always read this forum but do not post very often. However, I just had to mention this. I have a 2.5R Revo which I have had for about a year and a half. Until recently, I always ran the 2.5R engine. Now, I have a OS 18TM with the Traxxas Resonator pipe and a Motor Saver air filter. Nothing against the 2.5R engine, it was a great engine. However, this new OS is amazing. Even during the break-in, the engine has so much more punch and power than I was ever able to get out of the 2.5. In case anyone is ever wondering what kind of engine to get, I suggest the OS.
Well, I think I mentioned I got my Revo used. I am just curious about the rcvr pack. I went through everything that it came with and it doesnt have a charger (at least the kinds that I have had in the past, the over night or 12hr chargers that have a cord that plugs directly into the pack). Can someone fill me in here, I feel like an idiot.
Thanks
savagepicco26
08-20-2006, 06:59 PM
Well, I think I mentioned I got my Revo used. I am just curious about the rcvr pack. I went through everything that it came with and it doesnt have a charger (at least the kinds that I have had in the past, the over night or 12hr chargers that have a cord that plugs directly into the pack). Can someone fill me in here, I feel like an idiot.
Thanks
here's what the stock charger looks like:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHFP0&P=7
if you're talking about where it plugs in at on the truck, look on page 12 of the manual here:
http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/revo/revo25/blueprints/manuals_instr/040428_revo_manual.pdf
if you don't have a charger at all, i recommend this one:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML
bullett1818
08-20-2006, 07:16 PM
Ok Guys, So I went to the track today unfourtunatly I got no laps in. The problem was that the slipper nut keeps backing off on me. I tightened it as hard as I could, didnt work. I put loc-tite on it, didnt work. I will get a new nut this week but I was just wondering if anyone else has had this happen? Im just dissapointed that I drove an hour to be a corner marshall. I'll take any advice I can get.
-Bob-
Thanks savvagepicco26, I have a stock one, I'll have to upgrade soon.
Well, my LHS doesnt have everything I was looking for so, I am just going to order it. There are just a few things I would like to know first. I was going to get a close ratio 2 speed but, then I saw a single speed conversion. Which would be more beneficial for power? Another question, I know that the 3.3 is a powerful motor and not much smaller than .21s. Would a BB conversion be beneficial in any way? I am going to be getting a Jammin X1 CRT RTR Truggy w/ a .28 this week and he is throwing in a .32 motor. So I would have an extra motor to drop in. I was going to swap the .28 for the .32 and put the .28 in my Revo. Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
winning edge designs
08-20-2006, 10:04 PM
Bullett, sounds like a work locking ring in the slipper locknut, you should be fine after swapping it out.
Tig, A big block conversion will do the trick, but man, the 3.3 is awesome in the truck. If your bashing the bigger motor will only make for a bigger grin, but for most races here that .28 will mean you need to add 3+ lbs to the Revo!
YIKES!
:(
LOL, Jim
winning edge designs
08-20-2006, 10:05 PM
work = worn
Sorry, :)
...Jim
bullett1818
08-21-2006, 11:08 AM
Bullett, sounds like a work locking ring in the slipper locknut, you should be fine after swapping it out.
Tig, A big block conversion will do the trick, but man, the 3.3 is awesome in the truck. If your bashing the bigger motor will only make for a bigger grin, but for most races here that .28 will mean you need to add 3+ lbs to the Revo!
YIKES!
:(
LOL, Jim
Thanks Jim, I was hoping thats what you would say.
-Bob-
Ok Guys, So I went to the track today unfourtunatly I got no laps in. The problem was that the slipper nut keeps backing off on me. I tightened it as hard as I could, didnt work. I put loc-tite on it, didnt work. I will get a new nut this week but I was just wondering if anyone else has had this happen? Im just dissapointed that I drove an hour to be a corner marshall. I'll take any advice I can get.
-Bob-
Did you rebuild your slipper clutch? If so there are 2 washers that need to go together like this () if not your slipper clutch will back off.
bullett1818
08-21-2006, 03:39 PM
Did you rebuild your slipper clutch? If so there are 2 washers that need to go together like this () if not your slipper clutch will back off.
Thanks Atmo, I did check that though and the washers are correct.
-Bob-
winning edge designs,
Thats exactly what I am looking for this :eek: and this :D. I am not competative at all. The most racing I do is parking lot racing with some friends. Once they hear it, they wont want to mess with me anymore :).
Will the Qoncepts BB conversion accept an Ofna .28 or .32?
Thanks
What would I benefit from most, a close ratio 2 spd or a single speed conversion?
I am getting rid of the e-z start and adding a pull start. I will also be getting a center diff with rear brake and a forward only conversion.
winning edge designs
08-21-2006, 09:39 PM
Tig, The BB conversion will allow any motor that fits a standard big block motor mount setup fit into the truck. I think those motors fit into that category?
I would add a wide ratio if anything in the trans. The close ratio gives you a shorter second gear, taking away top end. We use it for racing so the shift is less abrupt due to the lessened gearing change. Most tracks don't allow top end anyhow, but a parking lot does!!!
:D, Jim
Jconcepts dot net
Thanks Buddy, I appreciate it.
I think I am going with the Qoncept BB kit, unless there is others available. Are there, besides Traxxas' version.
Thanks again
Has anyone had any tranny problems. Mostly inconsistant shifting. This is one reason I wanted to do the single speed conversion. Less turning mass and less parts to worry about :). I ended up bringing it to my LHS and he looked at it, he said "it looks like something is binding", this was just by lifting the little plug from the adjustment screw and looking inside. Then he put it on the ground and rolled it back and forth and said it again "something is binding", then he said "its going to be at least $100" :eek:, yah, I almost #@*^ my pants.
Really, how can you tell if something is binding just by peaking in the adjuster screw hole.
Can someone please give me some advise on what to do. I am planning on bashing this weekend, if I cant figure this out, I am not taking it. I really dont want to damage it more than it is, IF its even damaged. If I am going to tear it down, I am going to do all of the mods I was thinking of. I just cant make up my mind on whether to do the single speed or 2 speed. This makes me want to do the single speed. What to do:confused: ???????
Sorry for the long post, any help or advise would be much appreciated.
Thanks
psiturbo
08-24-2006, 08:51 PM
I just cant make up my mind on whether to do the single speed or 2 speed. This makes me want to do the single speed. What to do:confused: ???????
Sorry for the long post, any help or advise would be much appreciated.
Thanks
First question is:
Since when did it start to do the misshifting?
What is your objective for that truck?
How do others have the trucks?
In the near future a big block is in order?
I ask because some people do like the speed and blasting the truck on long tracks, others are more into power acceleration and plenty of climbing. If you are used to having your engine revving up til you choke 2nd gear a one speed conversion will not be the best thing. You dont want to be in the situation where your buddies are smokin you on straight aways etc. If you are one of those who really jump all the time and punish your truck and transmission then a single speed is suggested.
Having the 2-speed is good, but has its limits in power output from your engine.
psiturbo,
Thanks for the quick response.
1. Now that I think of it, it has done this sinse I bought it. I bought it used. I never really noticed until this past weekend. Thats when I used it the most.
2. BIG Basher, not competative. Just messing around with buddies. I do like whipping some butt to.
3. ? what do you mean "how do other have the trucks"
4. OH yeah, BB is in the near future. Like next week. I have a new Ofna .32 that I am planning on dropping in with the Qoncepts BB kit and New Era rear arms.
I am one who likes power acceleration :). I like the speed but, I am one who would sit a in a pile of dirt and do donuts till the wheels fall off to, lol.
I hope this doesnt sound stupid, I am wondering if I drop in a BB and a single speed conversion in, will it perform more like my Buggy?
To put it bluntly, I like every kind of RCing. This is whats killing me about the single speed, I know I will lose out on my top end if I do the swap. What to do???????
Thanks
winning edge designs
08-24-2006, 10:24 PM
Tig, an answer for looking into the adjustment hole and seeing "binding", can't be done. Beware that store or at least that employee.
Everyone runs the two speed for racing, even with big blocks. Shifting is a product of engine tuning, tire size and weight, shift adjustment, slipper setting and traction available.
If you change any of these factors the setting may need to be tweaked a little. Usually it will be a little different, but acceptable for most. Big changes will lead to big shift changes, etc.
Check the Traxxas site for Steve Slaydens latest tips, they are awesome and accurate!
Also keep in mind the two speed changes the first gear ratio, not the second or high gear, so top speed is unaffected. This is because an engine will only pull so much gearing, overgearing leads to overheated engines and very little if any added speed. The engine will handle spur gear and clutch bell changes if you stay with Traxxas parts you are safe.
I would only go into other hop up parts if you REALLY have the truck down like the back of your hand. ie, when you can find all and any problems without any help!
....Jim
Jconcepts dot net
Thanks Jim, for all of the info. I knew this guy was blowing smoke.
I will end up sticking with the 2 spd.
I did replace the spur (the spur gear was tripped) and clutch bell with Robinsons (40/16), thats the only thing I have done. It running pretty good, just shifts inconsistantly. Should the shift points be set to shift sooner or later?
I have taken out the Opti Drive system, should I put it back in?
I will hold off on any mods until she is running and shifting perfect. Its going to be hard to hold off on the BB install though,lol.
Thanks again, I appreciate it.
winning edge designs
08-25-2006, 11:42 PM
For shift points, I like to have the engine running top notch first. Once it is pulling well in top gear and not bogging, or getting hot, I set the shift to happen about 10-12 feet from a dead stop at full throttle.
On a slippery surface you can have it shift sooner, on tracks with jumps that need alot of accel you can have it shift later.
Keep in mind, changing the shift point after setting it right is only an 1/8th to 1/4 turn either way, it is fairly sensitive.
:), Jim
Jconcepts dot net
Jim, I really do appreciate all of the help.
Thanks again.
DarkSavage
08-26-2006, 11:38 AM
Thanks jim for the info.
I think my Revo needs a new chassis. I hit my full size truck tire head on at full blast, the only thing that broke was a shock shaft and rod end, or at least thats all I thought broke :(, it looks like my chassis is bent up pretty good. I just bid on one, hopefully I will win it.
Well, now I can really tear'em down and give him a good cleaning.
winning edge designs
08-26-2006, 11:31 PM
Any time guys, keeping the Revo ahead of the other monster trucks is easy with a little "Team work", :D!
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
Any time guys, keeping the Revo ahead of the other monster trucks is easy with a little "Team work", :D!
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
My first race with my monster truck tonight and the Revo’s could not beat my heavy slow Savage. Do not get me wrong as I think a Revo is a good truck but they just could not hang tonight.
tagmann50
08-27-2006, 09:03 PM
I think my Revo needs a new chassis. I hit my full size truck tire head on at full blast, the only thing that broke was a shock shaft and rod end, or at least thats all I thought broke :(, it looks like my chassis is bent up pretty good. I just bid on one, hopefully I will win it.
Well, now I can really tear'em down and give him a good cleaning.
Let me know if you dont win the auction I have a brand new one I will send you for 25 shipped
winning edge designs
08-27-2006, 11:01 PM
46u, you must be a good driver, the only Savage at our last state race didn't even make the A main. I had lapped him twice during 5 minute qualifying actually.
Not to say the Savage isn't a great truck, most just don't think of racing when they see it. My son likes them though and wants the Savage X as a matter of fact, he says "it looks more like a real monster truck".
They all have their special place in someones heart, :)!
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
psiturbo
08-28-2006, 09:43 AM
3. ? what do you mean "how do other have the trucks"
Thanks
What I mean how are other trucks setup?
Like if they have it for top end, single speed... In a way so your truck is in the same page as others and you are at the same level or on top of them.
At least have a good platform to work on, not just slapping parts left and right like most do without any idea of the final results.
I know what you mean about many options, thats why some people have different trucks, but all cost lenty of money. Try to make it that you have fun with it and dont forget its just a hobby. Who knows? Maybe later you buya Jato and have the best of both worlds depending on who you are going to race against or just plain hardcore bashing.
Hope to see soon some photos of the big block, poor transmission, start saving money...LOL
taggman50,
thanks for the offer, I appreciate it. I got one off Ebay.
psiturbo,
I gatcha about the whole set-up deal.
I am just a basher, not competative at all. Its all for the grin factor. All the parts I wanted all seemed to be decent mod for the addition of the BB.
My Revo is more of the experimental RC of my bunch. I have a CEN Nemesis, GS Storm, Jammin CRT RTR, MF2, XX-4 and RC12L4. The Revo is going to be my guinie pig for some major bashing. I like the 3.3, I have nothing against it. I am just addicted to the sound and power of a BB.
one more question, for anyone out there.
I was looking on the bay at rockers. What does the number listed mean. They are aluminum ones. They have numbers like 90T, 120T or 120L.
What do they mean? Also, what pushrods would be a match for them?
Thanks
winning edge designs
08-30-2006, 10:33 PM
Tig, they mean the same as the P1, P2, P3 designation. The actual bellcrank leverage though, rather then their designated number as Traxxas uses. Luckily Both numbers are on the Traxxas parts though!
Btw, here is a pic of the new JConcepts illuzion Revo 3.3 body!
:D, Jim
Jconcepts dot net
Thanks Jim
:eek: WOW, Your Revo is lookin pretty sweet. Very Nice.
Heres another question. I am putting my Spektrum gear in my Revo, I am using a single servo for steering.
What side should I put the servo on? Does it matter?
Thanks
winning edge designs
08-31-2006, 10:20 PM
Tig, it only matters if you are moving other things, like reciever, battery, etc. If not I would install in on the right side to help left to right balance. But it is on the left on my truck, since the reciever and personal transponder is up front on the right.
...Jim
jconcepts dot net
Cool, you da man
Thanks again Jim
kojak61
09-02-2006, 11:59 AM
I am trying to install the center diff and rear brake kit on my revo 2.5 and when I bolt down the tranny it locks the rear up. What do I need to do?I have cut the chassis like the instructions say.
winning edge designs
09-02-2006, 03:52 PM
Telly(aka, Kojak) it sounds like you may be binding the rear brakes on the chassis and may need a little more clearance? Hard to tell without seeing the truck or a pic, but this may be the problem?
Can you take a pic if it looks like the brake shoes, bolts and such are clearing everything ok?
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
RD Racing
09-02-2006, 06:09 PM
Hey Jim, whassup buddy?
kojak, just like Jim said, you need more clearance. The hump for the driveline needs to be demeled a bit to allow clearance for the driveline yoke which is now further back because of the rear brake system. If the brake pads are clearing the chassis, then no more cutting is needed, just dremeling on the bottom side of the chassis.
Roy
winning edge designs
09-02-2006, 06:56 PM
Man, if Roy doesn't set you straight nobody can, :D!
I had a good guess too! ;)
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
kojak61
09-03-2006, 10:13 PM
You guys were right, it was a clearence problem. I trimmed more off the chassis and it was working. Anyone know of a better brake disc? That stuff the rear discs is made of seems real flimsy.
jocktheglide165
09-04-2006, 03:45 AM
does anyone make a metal bulkhead setup?
kojak61
09-04-2006, 09:59 AM
Well my 2.5r engine is starting to give me trouble. I have the center diff and rear brake in a 2.5 chassis, do you think the 3.3 would work good or should I get another 2.5r?
Engine has been overheating and bogging.
Use Traxxas' buy back plan and get the 3.3.
savagepicco26
09-04-2006, 07:39 PM
Use Traxxas' buy back plan and get the 3.3.
i just looked on their site and see where it talks about the plan, but no links to actually do it. i've been thinking of putting a 3.3 in my revo, but there's nothing wrong with my 2.5R, so it's hard to justify.
HMMM, maybe theres a number you can get if you contact them through e-mail.
Yeah, thats true. My 2.5R was an awesome motor. I never had any problems with it, and it always held a tune. Either way, you really cant go wrong.
winning edge designs
09-04-2006, 09:16 PM
Kojak, the brake material in the rear disc is something alot of the buggies go to as an upgrade for stronger brakes, :)! Try it for a while and i'm sure you will like it.
Tig, I have a 2.5R brand new in the box if you are interested. I got it a month before the 3.3 came out and haven't used it since getting a 3.3 revo.
wedjim@cfl.rr.com
If you have more money, I would go to the 3.3, but that is coming from a racer. Teh 2.5R will be a great engine also and still do the job nicely.
...Jim
JConcepts dot net
savagepicco26
09-04-2006, 10:08 PM
If you have more money, I would go to the 3.3, but that is coming from a racer.
argh! don't tell me that! now you're going to make me spend more money i don't have! :D
Thanks for the offer Jim. I have just added a little something to my Revo. I have the 3.3 as well :).
Thanks though
winning edge designs
09-05-2006, 10:59 PM
Savagepicco, LOL!
Tig, no problem, i'll always do my best to say it like it is, even with something to try and sell, :D!
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
hey guys,
I am thinking of getting the Revo 3.3. My LHS guy says he would rather sell me that than the more expesive LST LOSI. What do you all think. I do like the REVO 3.3....I want to bash about dont care much for racing........will my money be well spent?
winning edge designs
09-06-2006, 11:42 PM
X3nO, the LST is a good truck too, but more expensive and not as durable in my experience. If you do go with the Losi the only one to get is the LST 2, also, imo.
I love my Revo, it has served me well so far and is a couple hundred less then the LST 2! :D
...Jim
Jconcepts dot net
savagepicco26
09-07-2006, 04:42 AM
If you do go with the Losi the only one to get is the LST 2, also, imo.
i second that, but also suggest getting the Revo 3.3 instead of the Losi
doh I meant the LST2 but yeah I am probably leaning Revo Too....see you guys soone with one LOL
heylee
09-07-2006, 07:22 PM
I have been wanting those axle carriers for a while. Finally have the money. They have been out of stock for a while. Did they discontinue them?
There was a hostile takeover of sorts and it looks like the new title owner is just selling of inventory for cash until it's depleted. But I'm sure Roy will comeback with a new company and start making products again. If you want the axle carriers go thru the Dealer list and make some phone calls. I had the same problem and Roy pointed me in the right direction. Got them from a dealer in cali but it was there last set. It only took about 5-8 calls and I found some
EvaderSTKid
09-16-2006, 05:30 PM
How does everyone like the Tekno throttle servo mount and receiver/battery boxes? I'm getting the throttle mount for sure, but I don't race, just tear around the track on open days, so I was wondering if the tank mods and smaller reciver box was worth it? Also what air filters are recomended besides the Motor Savers? Thanks guys.
kojak61
09-17-2006, 09:55 AM
Could my center diff be the cause of my 2.5r overheating in my Revo? I am running 120k odna diff lock in it. My overheating problem did not start untill I installed the center diff. I was running on grass and truck look like it had no traction. Do you guys thnk the diff is unloading and making the engine work to hard?
balang_479
09-17-2006, 11:44 AM
Yes that could be the problem. You should be able to see if the diffs are unloading to the front, Hammer the throttle and if the front tires ballon up way more than the back then your problably unloading, you will also notice the engine getting to higher revs quicker, therefore over heating. I would thinken the oil in the diff (even though 120k is loads). Or you could see if there is binding somewhere and the engine is taking extra stress,
What clutch setups are you guys running for the big blocks? And for small blocks?
What clutch setups are you guys running for the big blocks? And for small blocks?
I had my picco in for awhile and use the traxxas clutch most of the time and the MIP for big races
EvaderSTKid
09-21-2006, 09:16 PM
Anybody got reviews/opinions on the Tekno stuff?
tagmann50
09-21-2006, 09:52 PM
I've got the wing mount and servo mount from tekno they good stuff! I will be getting the fuel tank conversion next.
SerpentCT4S
09-21-2006, 11:15 PM
i got allthe tekno mods and theyre great. if you're racing your revo, theyre a must IMO.
Tim'sLosi
09-22-2006, 10:33 AM
I have heard and read nothing but good about them. I plan on having first hand experience real soon! These guys (http://www.revo-world.com/viewtopic.php?t=74) have a place to ask Tekno a question directly.
EvaderSTKid
09-24-2006, 01:11 AM
I just picked up the servo mount today and it looks great. I already have the wing mount and I want the battery box/tank mount kit. Tires come first though. What tank will lne up the best with the Tekno conversion to the stock fill hole?
psiturbo
09-27-2006, 01:22 AM
Nof Said (http://www.mvbashers.org/july4th2006.wmv)
Adanmtxt1
09-27-2006, 09:44 PM
Hey guys, I was curious as to if there is a reliable way to measure camber and toe without buying an entire setup table. I can't really plunk down a ton of money on something like that, and all I want to do is make sure my settings are correct and equal from left to right.
balang_479
09-28-2006, 01:49 PM
RPMs Monster camber gauge...
psiturbo,
You got that right. Thats a sick video, I watch that about twice a week :D
:wave:
This from Roy at RD
He posted some pics for us and this works better then anything plus it's cost next to nothing to make.
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=302142&page=17
How does everyone like the Tekno throttle servo mount and receiver/battery boxes? I'm getting the throttle mount for sure, but I don't race, just tear around the track on open days, so I was wondering if the tank mods and smaller reciver box was worth it? Also what air filters are recomended besides the Motor Savers? Thanks guys.
I use the Mugen filter. I just shogoo the mugen onto the revo neck then I use the rb prefilter but not there filters there smaller then the mugen. The Tekno throttle mount is one product of theres that I do not like. It has about 2.5mm of play which is 2.5mm to much. I tried a couple of different ways to try and get it out and never could.
savagepicco26
10-01-2006, 11:42 AM
This from Roy at RD
He posted some pics for us and this works better then anything plus it's cost next to nothing to make.
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=302142&page=17
what are you talking about? what cost almost nothing?
savagepicco26
10-01-2006, 11:46 AM
Also what air filters are recomended besides the Motor Savers? Thanks guys.
i've ran motor saver, mugen, kyosho, traxxas, hpi, and rb concepts air filters. i like the motor savers the best for ease of use and cleaning, plus good performance.
what are you talking about? what cost almost nothing?
Adammtxt1
He was looking for a setup board that didn't cost alot of money
Adanmtxt1
10-02-2006, 01:44 PM
Very cool, I will have to consider making one, but I think I will get the Monster Camber Gauge first. I really like the Maximizer flameout stopper, too.
Thanks for the help. :D
tagmann50
10-02-2006, 03:52 PM
Hi,
Can anyone tell me where to get some good instructions on how to convert my 18 TM to bumpstart only. Also, how much of a difference does it make in performance to do this? I currently have a tiger drive that works great but I just got my hands on a RD Logics starter box for next to nothing.
Thanks for the help, Tom
savagepicco26
10-02-2006, 04:17 PM
Hi,
Can anyone tell me where to get some good instructions on how to convert my 18 TM to bumpstart only. Also, how much of a difference does it make in performance to do this? I currently have a tiger drive that works great but I just got my hands on a RD Logics starter box for next to nothing.
Thanks for the help, Tom
shouldn't take any conversion. you should be able to just throw it on the box. main performance is in starting reliability and ease, especially for racing. you can loose a little weight by taking off your old starting system and putting on a regular backplate, but that's about it.
psiturbo
10-04-2006, 03:02 PM
I read most replies to see more info for servo setups...
Well, I did it- $515.00 including tax and the RTR REVO w/ 3.3 is now mine.
Follow all instructions by the book, its amazing how much effort to attention to detail is given to offer a high quality Nitro Truck. I was just stoked when opening the box; extra springs, arms, DVD video, step by step COLOR book (not some cheap copy like other companies), charger, receiver rechargeable battery, fail safe, set of tools, plus a 1-800 number... Simply amazing and for the price cant be any happier.
The question is; I have the 2055 steering servos and sometimes no matter how much I do the factory settings the servos tend to "sound" like if they were trying to fight each other.
Is this normal?
Will the servos burn-out by doing this?
Any suggestions?
Well, after some good blasting and good tuning the truck engine now is showing the infamous idling issue.
No matter how well I take care of the engine it gives me a very weird idling.
savagepicco26
10-04-2006, 04:14 PM
No matter how well I take care of the engine it gives me a very weird idling.
what is it doing?
Hi,
Can anyone tell me where to get some good instructions on how to convert my 18 TM to bumpstart only. Also, how much of a difference does it make in performance to do this? I currently have a tiger drive that works great but I just got my hands on a RD Logics starter box for next to nothing.
Thanks for the help, Tom
I used to do it but it's a pain and with the bigger motors now I just don't see the need plus I'm getting lazy but i usually keep 3 motors going at once. Remove the backplate disconnect rod and pull it out you will see the nub that hooks to the backplate that drives the ez-start. Dremel it down completely. Then put your new backplate on. What I do now is just take the owb out and I have an old pullstart that I shogo the openings and bolt her on. You can do the same with your rotostart backplate
Well, after some good blasting and good tuning the truck engine now is showing the infamous idling issue.
No matter how well I take care of the engine it gives me a very weird idling.
Check for an airleak. I'm sure you have checked the the usual places but look at the carb and check the gasket. Sometimes when you rotate the carb and tighten it down the alum goes out of round and breaks the seal.
alexrckid
10-05-2006, 10:44 PM
check out the ROAR results on the traxxax site.........go 3.3...
LD3Furious
10-16-2006, 01:14 PM
Revo racers...Im trying to help a friend set his truck up. Original 2.5. What Trax red alum pushrods (pt # please) does one use for the P2s and what length should they be? Ive seen a couple offerings on Tower's site, but it is a little confusing.Thx
qdmcl0573
10-16-2006, 04:18 PM
hey atmo i have an O.S. 18TM that i am using a bumpstart on with just the pull start case as a backplate. Will this cause engine problems. I sealed it up good so it doesnt get crap in there. You said that you have done that so i was just wondering if i need to go to a real backplate instead. Thanks.
savagepicco26
10-16-2006, 11:29 PM
hey atmo i have an O.S. 18TM that i am using a bumpstart on with just the pull start case as a backplate. Will this cause engine problems. I sealed it up good so it doesnt get crap in there. You said that you have done that so i was just wondering if i need to go to a real backplate instead. Thanks.
as long as you have the pull start backplate and shaft on there, you should be fine. you need a backplate of some kind. the plastic pull start case is not enough.
qdmcl0573
10-17-2006, 01:45 AM
so is it ok or is it not ok to have my pull start back plate (w/OWB and the other stuff removed)on my O.S. 18TM? I have it sealed good and i do have the shaft cause it came that way. I have an rcpro series race this weekend, will it make it through that ok until i can get a real backplate? At first it sounded like you were saying it was ok then you said the pullstart case was not enough. Which is it? Thanks for the help.
Mini Z
10-17-2006, 03:27 AM
Hey guys, Just got a 2.5 revo with a 3.3 in it. My god i must say after owning a maxx, maxx 21, maxx 2.5, and a savage. I'm impressed with it. Its overall lighter, in my hands to carry arround =) Anyway i was wondering, i just want to get a bit more umph' out of my 3.3. Now i'm looking at pipes. Whats out there aside from fantom/trinity and those loud pipes >.< THS or Vantage pipes any good? Would like some feedback on these 2 if anyone owns them.
qdmcl0573
10-17-2006, 04:28 AM
I would go with the resonater pipe. It is made for the 3.3 and has good bottom end. Personally i race with the traxxas blue anodized t-maxx performance pipe and it gives a ton more bottom end. I have to make my own exaust hanger but it was simple to make, oh and its only $40.00. The resonator would work perfectly though.
LD3Furious
10-17-2006, 07:17 AM
qdmcl0573 :
I can't really speak for the O.S, but I once had a Hot Bodies engine in my buggy. It was originally meant for an LSP with Roto Start. I ran it w/o the OWB...like you suggest, with the back plate and shaft going through and had no problems.
After owning the Revo for over a year, my friend finally got himself an .18 TM, and from what I can see, I think you can do the same. What Savage means is the part that holds the string/spring...that alone is not enough...however as long as you use the aluminum back plate that the shaft goes through, you should be ok.
qdmcl0573
10-17-2006, 04:17 PM
Alright sweet now i can race this weekend. I do have the metal backplate with the shaft sticking out on there. This is just to last me for a gallon or so until i can get a good backplate.
savagepicco26
10-17-2006, 04:33 PM
qdmcl0573 :
What Savage means is the part that holds the string/spring...that alone is not enough...however as long as you use the aluminum back plate that the shaft goes through, you should be ok.
exactly! :teacher:
qdmcl0573
10-17-2006, 06:58 PM
yea i get it now. Thanks for the help
hey atmo i have an O.S. 18TM that i am using a bumpstart on with just the pull start case as a backplate. Will this cause engine problems. I sealed it up good so it doesnt get crap in there. You said that you have done that so i was just wondering if i need to go to a real backplate instead. Thanks.
It's fine the seal is the same as if you are using a pullstart with the owb. I take the rope and handle out and use shoogoo to seal the hole. But like I said if it seals with the pullstart in it then yes it still works with the OWB out of it. I take the rope out to clean it up. I have put that blue rubber piece that comes with the foc and glue it in as well but the shoogoo way is just cleaner looking to me.
Mini Z
10-21-2006, 06:51 PM
Just wondering any one with the rpm hubs for the revo are they worth getting? i already have rpm arms all arround my revo. Also what else is a must to replace on the revo? hop ups on my revo are the Tekno r/c wing mount and hellfire wing, rpm arms all arround, and 40 series velocity's with crimefighters. Aside from that its the short 2.5 chassis with the 3.3 in it.
qdmcl0573
10-22-2006, 02:42 AM
i wouldnt get them because the pivot balls will pop out to much worse than the stock carriers. Get some alloy carriers they are much better.
Doesnt RD Racing make some carriers?
qdmcl0573
10-23-2006, 02:08 AM
not anymore. The company has shut down. Check out hot racing HD carriers. I got some of these and they are really nice. These have an oversized front bearing too with the option to put an even larger bearing in it if you want to. I think they are every bit as nice as the RD racing carriers.
badboy2
10-26-2006, 02:25 PM
i just got my revo roller and it came with the qoncepts bb conversion..only thing tho all of my engines are pullstart..i got a backplate to make one of my wasp a non pull..but i have to buy the rdlogics starter box..now im thinkin of getting the NEM conversion to use 21-32 engines..anyone here used that conversion?any feedbacks?thanks guys..
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