Traxxas Revo

[Tig]

You want to replace Qoncepts kit with New Eras, lol, wow. Qoncepts makes the best BB kit for the Revo, PERIOD.

I had the New Era kit, key word "had".

You got mail.

[badboy2]

got it thanks for the enlightening pm hehehe..what engine do u have now and are u using a starter box?

[Tig]

Cool, anytime :) , I'm using my motor from my Jammin CRT RTR, its a Force/Ofna .28. I am also using an RD Racing starter box.

[GTX]

I had the New Era BB kit too. It worked like it was supposed to but I only put 1 gallon on it before I went to a TZ-TX.

[badboy2]

whats a tz-tx?do u still have the nem conversion?i can buy it..

[qdmcl0573]

O.S. 18tz-tx motor.

[BlueBeast8-Port]

I've been out of the RC scene for about a year now and want to get back in just for fun to bash with. I've owned MANY t-maxx's from 2.5's to .21 conversions, etc. and a brushless Supermaxx e-maxx. I'm looking at the Revo 3.3 or T-maxx 3.3. Truck will be left stock just to bash outside my yard in the grass, street, and snow in the winter. Clearly th Revo is the better truck but is it not needed for what i'm looking for? Or would you think i'd be able to notice its features in bashing and be more happy with it not breaking as much, etc.? Thanks!

[qdmcl0573]

Revo 3.3 is a so much better basher and racer than the t-maxx. You will like the revo a sh**load more than than the t-maxx. Its is alot tougher, handles better, is more tunable, and is bigger and more stable on the ground and in the air. just get a revo youll notice a difference right away.

[Tig]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I agree 100%

[genericuserid]

any advice on these revo diffs, are the robinson racing gears better or a waste of money? Mine seem to mesh poorly right out of the box. I've had trouble keeping them in one piece....

[kojak61]

My 2.5R died today. After two practice runs, it would no longer start. I have decided to replace it. I am looking at getting another 2.5R or a O.S. .18TM. I am a racer, I race at my local track. Based on the track I run at, what should I get? Here are some pictures.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/kojak61/DCFN0005.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/kojak61/DCFN0004.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/kojak61/DCFN0003.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/kojak61/DCFN0002.jpg
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/kojak61/DCFN0001.jpg

[tagmann50]

I f you can afford it there is no question!! You gotta get the O.S. I love mine I went thru 2 2.5r's before finally getting the 18 tm. IT IS AWESOME!! It is so easy to tune and almost makes too much power!! I also have heard that O.S. has a great warranty program!

Have Fun!

[tagmann50]

Has anyone else had problems with the shock end caps, and push rod ends and even the shock caps wearing out and getting sloppy? Mine seem to wear out quick and I am thinking about replacing all of them with aluminum.

Thanks for the help!

[badboy2]

anyone wants to sell their starter box?

[savagepicco26]

Has anyone else had problems with the shock end caps, and push rod ends and even the shock caps wearing out and getting sloppy? Mine seem to wear out quick and I am thinking about replacing all of them with aluminum.

Thanks for the help!
are you overfilling the shocks? without the springs on, if you compress the shocks all the way, do they stay compressed or do they rebound some?

[tagmann50]

I do not remember, i think they rebound some. I will have to check. What way should it be? Thanks for the help, savage!

[atmo]

are you overfilling the shocks? without the springs on, if you compress the shocks all the way, do they stay compressed or do they rebound some?

The number 1 pistons will come up faster and farther then the #2 pistons. If you mix them up this is a quick way to see which ones are number 1 and 2.

[kojak61]

Has anyone tried a MC9 glow plug in a OS .18TM?

[savagepicco26]

Has anyone tried a MC9 glow plug in a OS .18TM?
unless you're running 30% nitro too, you don't want an MC9. that's a cold plug. they're primarily used with big blocks, but mainly with 30% nitro fuel.

[ChuckDeez]

what should I get, revo or revo 3.3? I'm not going to race it and if I get the revo, I can get it for $338 and If I want the revo 3.3, I can get it for $440. I'm just going to play around with it just like I did to my tmaxx 2.5.

[ChuckDeez]

okay the 3.3 handles better. what do I watch out for? Like I said, I heard there is a problem in their motors. Should I buy the O.S 18TM that is $179.99 right away and sell the 3.3 motor?

[savagepicco26]

okay the 3.3 handles better. what do I watch out for? Like I said, I heard there is a problem in their motors. Should I buy the O.S 18TM that is $179.99 right away and sell the 3.3 motor?
run the 3.3 till it dies then buy something else. don't waste your money selling a good motor.

[ChuckDeez]

run the 3.3 till it dies then buy something else. don't waste your money selling a good motor.

so the 3.3 is better than the O.S. 18TM motor?

[XR Mugen]

Hey there:

I have not run a 3.3 myself but I can speak to the OS .18TM. It is the best engine I have ever had and I have been running nitro for a number of years now. I ran a 2.5r in my Revo for about a year and a half, replaced the piston and sleeve once since I burnt it out racing an 1/8th scale around a wet soccer field. The 2.5r is a nice engine but difficult to tune and to keep in tune. I would assume the 3.3 is also difficult to tune because they share the same carb. The OS has been very easy to break in and holds a tune perfectly. It makes the Revo seem like a much lighter truck and I think the OS produces more than enough power for the Revo. To summarize, I think the OS is a fabulous engine and it makes running the Revo much more fun. The engine does not stall and does not fluctuate wildly in temp like my 2.5r did even when I had the backplate and carb sealed up. Go with the OS.

[savagepicco26]

so the 3.3 is better than the O.S. 18TM motor?
not saying that at all. the 3.3 is a sweet motor. if you sell it, you won't get what it's worth out of it, so you'll be wasting money. you won't get enough to pay for a new os 18 tm either, so you'll be out even more out of pocket right away. just run the 3.3 till it dies (probably several gallons) then get a 18 tm. i wouldn't judge the 3.3 untill you've ran it, especially since the truck comes with a 3.3.

[ChuckDeez]

not saying that at all. the 3.3 is a sweet motor. if you sell it, you won't get what it's worth out of it, so you'll be wasting money. you won't get enough to pay for a new os 18 tm either, so you'll be out even more out of pocket right away. just run the 3.3 till it dies (probably several gallons) then get a 18 tm. i wouldn't judge the 3.3 untill you've ran it, especially since the truck comes with a 3.3.

honestly, I had fun wth me tmaxx 2.5. I never had a problem until 6 tanks. It wouldn't hold a tune correctly. I guess i'll keep the motor for now. Maybe its better than the 2.5.

[savagepicco26]

Maybe its better than the 2.5.
i've got the 2.5r in my revo, but i've been tempted to get the 3.3 from hearing from people that had the 2.5's and then got the 3.3. the 3.3 is supposed to be a kick-ass motor!

[ChuckDeez]

i've got the 2.5r in my revo, but i've been tempted to get the 3.3 from hearing from people that had the 2.5's and then got the 3.3. the 3.3 is supposed to be a kick-ass motor!

tell me about it. I thought 2.5 was the greatest in the Tmaxx. lol that was back in Jan. 06' when I didn't know about nitros. I know a lot about it now. TRX motors are great, you just have to learn how to treat them. But when I had a Nitro rustler, that thing was hard to tune. I don't know why.

[ChuckDeez]

how durable is the revo 3.3? I say the tmaxx 2.5 is durable. If I say that, will you consider the revo 3.3 to be very durable? I never broked a single part on my tmaxx 2.5 and I bashed it heavily. The only thing that went wrong was the lugnut. It came off while I was driving at high speeds. Pretty cool seeing your truck go like that. fun fun fun.

[rezenclowd3]

Well, my Revo 3.3 should be here soon. Traded a guitar for one thats supposedly setup very well for racing. Jim, after seeing your J-Concepts 3.3 body, I had to order one! So I read that most people use the 2 speed for racing. Is that so? I would think you would want a center diff... My track is very dusty and hard packed with rocks in it (real dirt!), about a 200ft straightaway, and the rest is almost all 180s with banks and 30ft sections with 3-5 jumps in each section. I hope to put this through its paces as it will be my first truck other than a stadium truck and Nitro TC. (I race only, and the track is only built for buggies and truggies, not ST. Some of the banks are too steep and the truck just slides down it even if you have decent forward motion.)

[ChuckDeez]

lol, I was watching a REVO 3.3 video and there was something wrong with the optidrive and it drove away. How do i Prevent this? its scary!

[growweirdstuf]

Nevermind, kinda found my answer.

[MikeWz]

I'm curious what kind of advantage running the center diff gives. I know it has the advantage of being able to slap on that rear brake kit, and I'd love to have some adjustable brake bias, but what other than that. I just feel like if it's necessary to run a diff oil like 400K in it that there'd be a little more resistance in the drive train, and it might actually be slower than just throwing in a FOC. I mean I can't say for sure because I'm not sure what the stock diff grease compares to, but I feel like it'd take more power to slosh through 400K oil

[atmo]

I'm curious what kind of advantage running the center diff gives. I know it has the advantage of being able to slap on that rear brake kit, and I'd love to have some adjustable brake bias, but what other than that. I just feel like if it's necessary to run a diff oil like 400K in it that there'd be a little more resistance in the drive train, and it might actually be slower than just throwing in a FOC. I mean I can't say for sure because I'm not sure what the stock diff grease compares to, but I feel like it'd take more power to slosh through 400K oil


If there is any lose of speed it's not noticable and the gains with the rear brake and the cd out weigh any lose of speed. The ability to go into a turn with the rear brake and come out of the turn with the cd more than makes up for any lose of speed. The cd also gives it better control thru the woops and rough sections. On a side note I have found that 500k works better and as they always say "races are won it the corners" and thats where the cd with the rear brake excel.

[ChuckDeez]

lol, I was watching a REVO 3.3 video and there was something wrong with the optidrive and it drove away. How do i Prevent this? its scary!

[z-man280]

two words Chuck:

return spring.

[ChuckDeez]

two words Chuck:

return spring.


yeah i know, I had one in my HPI mt2 18ss. I want to keep the optidrive, but I hear there are problems with it electronically.

[savagepicco26]

two words Chuck:

return spring.
a throttle return spring only helps if you loose power though. if the opti-drive messes up and is electrically telling the throttle servo to run wide open, the spring won't be able to counter act that. just like a spring won't prevent the throttle from operating when you're commanding it with the radio. a TRS is a good idea to have though. personally, i run Venom failsafe's on mine. it's saved my RC's more than once. when the battery gets too low, it will prevent the throttle servo from doing anything so you don't run the risk of loosing control.

[ChuckDeez]

a throttle return spring only helps if you loose power though. if the opti-drive messes up and is electrically telling the throttle servo to run wide open, the spring won't be able to counter act that. just like a spring won't prevent the throttle from operating when you're commanding it with the radio. a TRS is a good idea to have though. personally, i run Venom failsafe's on mine. it's saved my RC's more than once. when the battery gets too low, it will prevent the throttle servo from doing anything so you don't run the risk of loosing control.

do you have a revo? if you do, have you experienced the problem with optidrive? let me know!

[savagepicco26]

do you have a revo? if you do, have you experienced the problem with optidrive? let me know!
yes i have a revo and no, i've never had any problems with the optidrive. the experience with the venom saving my rc's has never been related to the optidrive. it's been due to low batteries or radio interference.

[ChuckDeez]

I want to get the yellow revo 3.3 from towerhobbies. Which one is it? A2, A4, A5, A6?

[savagepicco26]

I want to get the yellow revo 3.3 from towerhobbies. Which one is it? A2, A4, A5, A6?
yellow is A5. it tells what each one is on the pages at tower. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXMHP1A5&P=V look almost to the bottom, just above the bearing section.

[ChuckDeez]

thanks savage. do you think the revo is worth it? I love the suspension and all that. Anything wrong with that? You just have to tune it to your likings. I keep hearing the revo is not worth it. I think its worth it though. I mean, I love all kinds of brands. I have tried HPI and their great. Their trucks and cars are very durable.

[z-man280]

you answered your own question chuck. If YOU think its worth it, YOU like it, and YOU are happy with it, others opinions are pretty much mute at that point. If ya want one, get one.:D

:wave:

[ChuckDeez]

you answered your own question chuck. If YOU think its worth it, YOU like it, and YOU are happy with it, others opinions are pretty much mute at that point. If ya want one, get one.:D

:wave:

haha k. :D

[rezenclowd3]

But c'mon, if we tell him to like it, he will believe us:-)

[savagepicco26]

thanks savage. do you think the revo is worth it? I love the suspension and all that. Anything wrong with that? You just have to tune it to your likings. I keep hearing the revo is not worth it. I think its worth it though. I mean, I love all kinds of brands. I have tried HPI and their great. Their trucks and cars are very durable.
i definitely don't regret getting one. i think they're worth it. very flexible. great basher. great racer.

[ChuckDeez]

But c'mon, if we tell him to like it, he will believe us:-)

hehe, I've been told I am too gullible. :o

[rezenclowd3]

Lol, me too. "What! Brand X, truck Y won! Lemme go buy one right now!"

[rezenclowd3]

Well, I finally got a Revo, I am so stoked. Its got a Sportwerks .26 in it and the Tekno hopus plus all the Slayden mods. The thing is, its a 2.5, and well darn it Jim, I already ordered a 3.3 Illuzion body! The track I will be running at mostly is a REAL offroad track! Upkeep is low, tracktion is low, and its rocky and rutted. So I figure I need the 3.3 chassis. If anyone has one they want to get rid of, PM me.

I cant wait to run this! Tried to start it (bumpstart only) and I cant... So I am now needing the RD logics revo starter box....

BTW, most people dont use the center diff for racing right? Its got the FOC and close gear ratio (my track is very tight)

[ChuckDeez]

people do use the center diff. Some don't because they don't want to be in the truggy class or else the revo's will be raped. lol thats what I heard.

[washingtonsavay]

Steve Pond is like a god to the r/c world and I would like to ask Him or anybody else for that matter a question .... My buddy just go his revo and wants to make this truck a basher.. Will to hold up.. He also has a savage I think he's crazy why not beat the hell out of that savage.. it can take most abuse.. (he's turning it into a shelf queen) doesn't want to drive it on the dirt anymore.. so thats why he got the revo for bashing only. I don;t know just like to sway him in the other direction. WILL THE REVO HOLD UP TO BASHING thanks steve and others :huh:

[rezenclowd3]

Just got my revo running finally. Got a Airtronics 358z and vantage pipe plus the 3.3 chassis coming. I gotta say, with the sportwerks 26 v2 in there, its got crazy power, although I want more usable power, so once thats gone, I am dropping a modified os 18tm in. It also needs the shocks and diffs refilled, but im out of fluids till next week. In a stock race form (40-50 weight at arms level) how high should I be able to drop it with out it bottoming out? Right now if I drop it at 2.5 feet, it bottoms out...

[MikeWz]

Yes, the Revo will hold up to a beating. He should put the long travel rockers on there to give a little more ground clearance for getting over the real rough stuff. In all honesty, that's the only thing it needs. I've been bashing mine all stock except for a pipe, and it holds up awesome. I haven't broken anything yet, and I beat on it pretty hard.
Another good idea is to grind down the inside of the clutch shoes. There's an article on it (amongst other things )here:
http://www.traxxas.com/support/index.php?action=artikel&cat=143&id=483&artlang=en

[novacrzy]

Hi I am just getting back into the hobbie I was wondering what is the better car the revo3.3 or the hellfire. I am planning on racing.

[rezenclowd3]

Well, the Revo is considered to be the top racing truck, but one would want to make a few modifications to steering and quite a few hopups to race. The Hellfire is a truggy, and truggies in general are meant for racing. The Hellfire is decent, but Ive heard of quite a few problems because it needs more reinforcement. Best thing to do is read this Revo thread and read the Hellfire thread. If it were up to me to choose for racing, I wouldnt get the Hellfire at all, but the Jammin CRT. Just my opinion though.

[Prinler4256]

Guys i needed to compair two trucks.

Savage X and the Revo

I have a Savage X and i love it. Never breaks and hauls.
I see many people with Revo's and they love them to. A Video on this site shows a revo go in reverse? is that stock?

[ChuckDeez]

Guys i needed to compair two trucks.

Savage X and the Revo

I have a Savage X and i love it. Never breaks and hauls.
I see many people with Revo's and they love them to. A Video on this site shows a revo go in reverse? is that stock?

yes its stock. The savage X does not have it or what?

[Prinler4256]

they say its optional but i dont know how easy it would be to install.

[Tig]

Revos come stock with reverse.

[SquirrelNutz]

they say its optional but i dont know how easy it would be to install.
you can take it out with a forward only conversion kit. its a simple install and the instructions on it are decent.

[Tim'sLosi]

This guy has a sweet revo for sale...too bad I have a couple already. (http://www.revo-world.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2375#post2375)

[savagepicco26]

they say its optional but i dont know how easy it would be to install.
the reverse kit is a pain to install in the savage. i did it once, it sucked trying to get it installed, so i took it out. it also killed the acceleration with the extra weight. the stock revo reverse is nice. if you want to race, the forward only conversion will reduce a lot of rotational mass and increase acceleration.

[novacrzy]

Can you convert a revo 3.3 into a truggie or would it just caust to much.

[ChuckDeez]

Can you convert a revo 3.3 into a truggie or would it just caust to much.

it cost about $35 for the center diff, and FOC.

wheels and tires probably $100.

and just set it up.

if you want to make it look like a truggy, get the tekno wing mount and wing, and fastback style body.

[rezenclowd3]

Anything is possible... In this case, not worth it at all. Use the 3.3 chassis, then take out the transmission, use the center diff and essentially you have a truggy... Correct me if Im wrong.... But it would be better just to buy a truggy.

[ChuckDeez]

Anything is possible... In this case, not worth it at all. Use the 3.3 chassis, then take out the transmission, use the center diff and essentially you have a truggy... Correct me if Im wrong.... But it would be better just to buy a truggy.

yeah, like a muggy.

[novacrzy]

The reason I ask about the conversion is I really would like a truggie and I like the Hellfire but I have heard so many bad things about it, What I plan on doing is racing, I want to be lighting fast and I will end up running it at the house on the pavement, any sugestions. Thanks for your help.

[rezenclowd3]

If you really want a truggy, then get one:-) Is it the Hellfire body that catches your eye? Or is it the actual design? Because if you read that it has problems, then why get it? Buy something that wont frustrate you. If you want the Revo, buy it. It doesnt have many problems, but it is a monster truck, not a truggy. The top truggies as of late are the Jammin, Losi (maybe, not out yet, but most likely), Kyosho and Mugen.

[novacrzy]

What losi are you talking about

[novacrzy]

and what jammin are you talking about

[rezenclowd3]

Jammin CRT or the Losi 8T. Look on the boards for those specific models. Tons of help there just as there is here for the Revo.

[novacrzy]

What do you think about the 1/8 LIGHTNING STADIUM PRO RTR

[rezenclowd3]

Well, this is the forum for Revos, so you should know our answer: get a Revo;-) Did I mention that the search function is awesome? Hint hint:-0

[savagepicco26]

Well, this is the forum for Revos, so you should know our answer: get a Revo;-) Did I mention that the search function is awesome? Hint hint:-0
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/speed_bump/smiles/whipping.gifhttp://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/speed_bump/smiles/laugh4.gif

[rezenclowd3]

HAHA, thanks for the illustration savagepicco26!

[savagepicco26]

HAHA, thanks for the illustration savagepicco26!
i'm here all week. don't forget to tip your waitress! LOL

[genericuserid]

Any body know the trick to keeping these things (diff's) sealed?

[ChuckDeez]

no, tell me. Mine keeps on leaking.

[rezenclowd3]

Have you tried replacing the rubber gasket? I dont know, as I just got my revo about a month ago, and only ran it once so far.....

[juntom10]

yay... maybe i will get revo 3.3 for christmas(first nitro car to me)...any advices :wave: for me?

[ChuckDeez]

nothing really. Just get out there and see what lasts. I have yet to break something. I have ran over 1 1/2 gallons and no serious problems yet.

[genericuserid]

I've re-built these things about 5 times, with no luck. New diff cups and seals every time. I was wondering if anyone has tried aluminum cups with any luck.

[revodude14]

I know this has probably already been addressed somewhere else on this thread but it might be different. Ok, so I have a revo and want to go to a 3.3, but I already have an o.s. 18tm. I don't race all that much but I still do so can I send my engine to eb to get it modded or is the 3.3 a better deal? I know people talk about a rb tm323, but the modded .18tm makes 2.3hp and so does the tz, but the tz is not a drop in. I'd like to be able to go fast like in as a big block but by the time you factor in the weight it still might be too much for racing. Btw I have a 2.5 revo, but I plan on making it into the 3.3 with extended arms and chassis and center diff (part numbers?) My last question would be if I do go big block, will the tranny/axles hold up or do I need cvd's and metal spur gears and stuff like that?

[Hugh]

I wanted to get some opinions on a problem I have here. I've been racing the Revo since it first came out a few years ago. I started with the 2.5 engine,stepped up to the OS 18TM(best engine I've EVER owned) whenever it was released and then moved over to the 3.3 engine whenever it came out. The first 3.3 I had ran good up to the 2 gallon mark,then the rear bearing went out. I sent it in and Traxxas replaced the bearing,rightfully. 1.5 gallons later,the rear bearing goes out again. It took me a couple of hours and 3 glow plugs to figure out it was the rear bearing failure for a second time. After I took the motor apart to diagnose the problem,I saw that parts of the bearing race and cage had scratched the hell out of the sleeve and piston. There were some other scratches inside the crankcase,but the P&S took the worst of it.I sent the motor back to Traxxas,again,3 weeks ago with a letter decribing the problem. I got a call from them today and they said that warranty will not cover anything since the engine has a few gallons of fuel run through it. I was told that if this happened in the first few tanks,then they would take care of it. They suggested the Exchange Program. I'm not going to be rude to the guy on the other end of the line,who's just doing what he was told to say, so I told them to hang onto the engine until I got back to them. I have been a strong supporter,endorser and advertiser of the Revo and Traxxas products since day one and I'm not even gonna get into the money that I've spent on their products,both aftermarket and replacement. The fact that they will not even cover the bearing is very disappointing. I can understand the not replacing the piston/sleeve,but the 2 rear bearing failures were not my fault. They were faulty bearings on both accounts. I have read at least a dozen reports of rear bearing failures online and personally know 5 other people that this has happened to in the past. Traxxas replaced their bearing,but not mine. Why? All of this is reminiscent of the diff. failures on the 1st gen. Revos and than the whole fuel tank O-Ring thing later on. Back then I had 3 diffs go out on me and some major overheating issues fom the kinked O-ring. I understand that it is only a bearing and not very expensive to replace,but the frustation and lack of having an engine to run has really sucked. I haven't been able to run for a while,because I have no engine. As I said before,I've strongly supported the company for 3 years now,but things like this really make me question their support towards me. I have to save up my lunch money for this hobby and can barely afford the hobby as is. I cannot afford a new engine or the exchange,at least not for a long while. Money is very tight with me right now as I've been out of a job for over a month. Now,I'm S.O.L.,and don't know what I'm going to do now. This is not a bashing of Traxxas,by no means. I don't think it's right,and wanted to see what you guys think about this. Thanks
BTW,I posted this over on Traxxas's board and apparently a moderator didn't like it too much. He closed the thread,issued me double warning points and then deleted the thread entirely 12 hrs later. Weird,huh? :confused:

[patrick scot]

i had a revo during the fuel cap oring era and traxxas did send me more defective o-rings to replace the old ones. end result i used a o-ring from my tnx but the damage was already done and i said goodbye to the revo and used my tnx pro for racing and now have a lst. i think you should ask to speak to a supervisor and calmly tell your story to him. i was considering a revo 3.3 for this spring but your post brought back bad memories. good luck and don't give up. they should rebuild that motor for you. pat

[Hugh]

I've actually got my eye on an LST2 roller right now. I was getting Revo'ed out a little before. This situation does not help. I was also accused by the moderator of being someone trying to get free parts,and also told by him that this was normal,and that an engine with 3.5 gallons of fuel through it it well worn and not considered lightly used at all. That's just BS PERIOD,and bad advice. I'm no cheat trying to get free stuff,I'm no newbie that doesn't know what's going on and it's pretty obvious that it's a manufactuer defect. If you get any advice or comments from mods over there,it pays to get a second opinion on another board. I wasn't looking to get a free rebuild,but I agree,that IS what they SHOULD do.
Back during the diff. and O-ring era though,Traxxas denied knowing anything about any defective rings or diff gears. At least they denied knowing about these issues to me,but they did replace them. The kinked O ring cost me an engine back then and now the faulty rear bearing has cost me another engine.

[rezenclowd3]

Well, 3.5 gallons through these engines is quite a bit dude. If you get 4 gallons out of them thats a whole lifetime for most of these engines. (although this is coming from a racers perspective, who will replace an engine close to the moment after they feel the engine is losing its pinch and competitiveness.)

[Hugh]

Well, 3.5 gallons through these engines is quite a bit dude. If you get 4 gallons out of them thats a whole lifetime for most of these engines. (although this is coming from a racers perspective, who will replace an engine close to the moment after they feel the engine is losing its pinch and competitiveness.)

I've gotten no less than 7 gallons out of any engine I've ever owned,except this one. One of those was an old 2.5 that I got close to 13 gallons out of before it started to slow down,so no doubt Traxxas does definetly has built quality engines I know a guy that swears he put 17 gallons through an Associated .21 in his MGT. If properly broken in and taken care of(piston at BDC after each run,don't run too lean and afterrun oil) a well built engine should last a minimun of 5 gallons before losing power,or compression. That's my opinion. I took care of this engine no differently than any other
I'm a pretty active racer and put about 1.5 quarts through my engine every weekend at club races. At a larger event,it's closer to 3/4g through the engine. The 3.3 I'm speaking of lasted a total of 2 months,not including the 3-4 weeks it bounced back and forth to Traxxas twice.

[CRSMP5]

REVO rear plate so you don't loose though pins when your skid plate breaks.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k100/rcracer593/th_IMG_1120.jpg (http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k100/rcracer593/IMG_1120.jpg)
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k100/rcracer593/th_IMG_1116.jpg (http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k100/rcracer593/IMG_1116.jpg)


They are available the price is $20.
I have added the to the site.
Revo rear hinge pin retainer plate (https://www.m2cracing.com/displayProductDocument.hg?productId=118)

[psiturbo]

Well, after some good blasting and good tuning the truck engine now is showing the infamous idling issue.

No matter how well I take care of the engine it gives me a very weird idling.

Moved to 30% O'Donnell and dumped the 20% nitro fuel. It looks like the fuel bought from the hoby shop was old or something, no wonder they had it on sale.

Besides that I did the old oven trick and tighten the sleeve. So the sleeve was pinched and now it runs like a champ again. All contact surfaces between the piston and sleeve were given a minor polishing with Blue Magic and clean cloth just to give it a clean surface. I am happy with the engine now and the results are amazing for such a ghetto fix. It proves these engines are very well made and can stand a good beating.

After it wears out I have a spare Sportwerks .26 waiting with the BB conversion kit.

[psiturbo]

I wanted to get some opinions on a problem I have here. I've been racing the Revo since it first came out a few years ago. I started with the 2.5 engine,stepped up to the OS 18TM(best engine I've EVER owned) whenever it was released and then moved over to the 3.3 engine whenever it came out. The first 3.3 I had ran good up to the 2 gallon mark,then the rear bearing went out. I sent it in and Traxxas replaced the bearing,rightfully. 1.5 gallons later,the rear bearing goes out again. It took me a couple of hours and 3 glow plugs to figure out it was the rear bearing failure for a second time. After I took the motor apart to diagnose the problem,I saw that parts of the bearing race and cage had scratched the hell out of the sleeve and piston. There were some other scratches inside the crankcase,but the P&S took the worst of it.I sent the motor back to Traxxas,again,3 weeks ago with a letter decribing the problem. I got a call from them today and they said that warranty will not cover anything since the engine has a few gallons of fuel run through it. I was told that if this happened in the first few tanks,then they would take care of it. They suggested the Exchange Program. I'm not going to be rude to the guy on the other end of the line,who's just doing what he was told to say, so I told them to hang onto the engine until I got back to them. I have been a strong supporter,endorser and advertiser of the Revo and Traxxas products since day one and I'm not even gonna get into the money that I've spent on their products,both aftermarket and replacement. The fact that they will not even cover the bearing is very disappointing. I can understand the not replacing the piston/sleeve,but the 2 rear bearing failures were not my fault. They were faulty bearings on both accounts. I have read at least a dozen reports of rear bearing failures online and personally know 5 other people that this has happened to in the past. Traxxas replaced their bearing,but not mine. Why? All of this is reminiscent of the diff. failures on the 1st gen. Revos and than the whole fuel tank O-Ring thing later on. Back then I had 3 diffs go out on me and some major overheating issues fom the kinked O-ring. I understand that it is only a bearing and not very expensive to replace,but the frustation and lack of having an engine to run has really sucked. I haven't been able to run for a while,because I have no engine. As I said before,I've strongly supported the company for 3 years now,but things like this really make me question their support towards me. I have to save up my lunch money for this hobby and can barely afford the hobby as is. I cannot afford a new engine or the exchange,at least not for a long while. Money is very tight with me right now as I've been out of a job for over a month. Now,I'm S.O.L.,and don't know what I'm going to do now. This is not a bashing of Traxxas,by no means. I don't think it's right,and wanted to see what you guys think about this. Thanks
BTW,I posted this over on Traxxas's board and apparently a moderator didn't like it too much. He closed the thread,issued me double warning points and then deleted the thread entirely 12 hrs later. Weird,huh? :confused:

That is so FDUp from them, but it looks like you got a lemon engine. For me the crankcase tolerances are pinching the bearings to fail. It seems to weird that 2 bearings fail back to back. I put my money the crankcase is defective and is somewhat pinching to much the bearing or letting the bearing get somewhat loose once the engine heats up. Who knows if the CC was not machined properly and the bearings dont seat way in like they are suppose to. It sucks it is happening to you. I got my REVO 3.3 and if you read my previous posting it shows my engine is very reliable. I did the pinching technique and is running like a champ.

About the admins deleting your posting that I see it happening a lot. I can tell from my own experience from when I used to post on the OFNA message boards. I would bring up the major problems hunting the Force .25 engines that everybody talks about and the admins will just delete the thread and even closed my account. I came back and open a new account with a different email and kinda rephrased it so it did not look that bad and anyway same results; posting deleted and thread closed. Also on the hitec forums I posted problems with one of my servos and the same deal. Thats why I stick with RCZ forums because they offer remedies and alternatives to problems that may arise.

[nitrorulz]

I posted this over on Traxxas's board and apparently a moderator didn't like it too much. He closed the thread,issued me double warning points and then deleted the thread entirely 12 hrs later. Weird,huh?

Oh, thats just the Mod's over at Traxxas Community being their regular prick selves!

[Hugh]

psiturbo-I've read about the oven trick before. could you please refresh my memory and explain it? I've got a couple of "junk" engines I'd like to try it out on.
I never thought about the crankcase. Just a few hours ago,I pulled out one of the rear bearings out of a 2.5 and put it in the 3.3. The bearing only has 1.5g of fuel through it,so it's in great shape. If this one goes out,then it has to be the CC. Well,I guess it could also be incorrect machining of the crankshaft,too. We'll see. Thanks for your input.

nitrorulz-I bounced a couple of PMs back and forth with the mod when this was going on. I'm not going to get into details,but this is a cut & paste of the last pm I sent him.- "I've been into RC long enough to know what's right and what's wrong,what's exceptable as far as quality and what's not. I'm no rookie and I don't appreciate the "Traxxas doesn't supply free parts" speech. :teacher: I'm no cheat that's looking for free stuff. Dozens of failures and thousands of successs' is not acceptable. That's like one cylinder on a V8 going out and saying "it's alright. It'll run" Sure,It'll run at 80% power,but not run right,if you understand my point. Have fun policing the board. You won't have to "issue warning tickets until liscense is revoked" to me anyomore. This is the EXACT reason I don't post on here too much anymore. I'm done on this board. No need to respond."
Hugh

[nitrorulz]

Well my Felony points from Traxxas Forum Nazi's came when I used **** in place of a word. I got 5 points, demerits, whatever! I e-mailed them and said whats the points thing going on now? They said its new, so if you substitute any words with any *****, ^#@!, or whatever, you now get points! I e-mailed back and said well this must be new, so at least warn me, or make me aware of the new system.

They came back with "Its clearly posted in the Community forum, and the points you got will stick!" Ok, I don't go to the Community forum much, mainly the TRUCK forums, for TRUCK info! Ok, i'm 42 years old, and i'm being treated like a Juvenile Criminal, but ok, lets make the forum all Police like!!

Well I hardly went there anymore, but I did some, and Wa-La, last June, I was on there simply asking if anyone had a 3.3 Revo, and had installed a O.S 18tm in place of it, and how was the performance as compared to the 3.3 in power and heat!

Ut Oh, 8 more points! I seen the new points and e-mailed them hott as a Hornet! Of course I got a response of "You are asking a question about anothers companies part as compared to ours, so thats points! WOW, talk about Nazi's! I replied back, take my membership, and shove it! I will never be back! I, in noway will be treated like that! Rules are rules, thats fine, but come on! Of course I've read post after post after post about Traxxas Police Forums! They seem to loose people weekly over there!

[nitro_newbie]

i had a quetion is the revo 2.5 be able to use a BB? like the xtm .28 or the .247? do i need a conversion???thanx alot

[savagepicco26]

i had a quetion is the revo 2.5 be able to use a BB? like the xtm .28 or the .247? do i need a conversion???thanx alot
yes, yes, and yes.

[savagepicco26]

Well my Felony points from Traxxas Forum Nazi's came when I used **** in place of a word. I got 5 points, demerits, whatever! I e-mailed them and said whats the points thing going on now? They said its new, so if you substitute any words with any *****, ^#@!, or whatever, you now get points! I e-mailed back and said well this must be new, so at least warn me, or make me aware of the new system.

They came back with "Its clearly posted in the Community forum, and the points you got will stick!" Ok, I don't go to the Community forum much, mainly the TRUCK forums, for TRUCK info! Ok, i'm 42 years old, and i'm being treated like a Juvenile Criminal, but ok, lets make the forum all Police like!!

Well I hardly went there anymore, but I did some, and Wa-La, last June, I was on there simply asking if anyone had a 3.3 Revo, and had installed a O.S 18tm in place of it, and how was the performance as compared to the 3.3 in power and heat!

Ut Oh, 8 more points! I seen the new points and e-mailed them hott as a Hornet! Of course I got a response of "You are asking a question about anothers companies part as compared to ours, so thats points! WOW, talk about Nazi's! I replied back, take my membership, and shove it! I will never be back! I, in noway will be treated like that! Rules are rules, thats fine, but come on! Of course I've read post after post after post about Traxxas Police Forums! They seem to loose people weekly over there!
that's so gay of them. i'm tempted to go over there just to see how many points i can get! LOL

[nitro_newbie]

yes, yes, and yes.

if so what conversion is it? what is the stuff it includes in the conversion?any reccomendations? and any drive train mods that i need to do? thanx alot

[cosmicpossum]

Any of you Traxxas board guys would recognize my handle. I was the one to get banned when the discussion in the Alley section was started about "Why can't we talk about non-Traxxas in the Alley (off topic) section?" I merely pointed out that the question was a valid one and a moderator assessed me 8 points! I pm'd him requesting they be removed or I'd email a complaint to the sysop and he banned me. It's too bad they have a moderator that thinks he's God that doesn't even work for the company....he's cost them a lot of business from this 49 year-old man with a lot of expendable income. Oh, well.....Ofna gets all my business now.

Anyone want to buy a super tricked-out Jato?

[nitrorulz]

There are several BB conversions to choose from! Traxxas actually makes one, and New Era makes a few. I used one from New Era that would let me run a Pull-start BB. It has worked out good. Go to New Era Models and look around.

[ChuckDeez]

if I run BB, would I run into any problems? such as gears under pressure?

[nitrorulz]

If you run a high H.P motor, then you might! I had a O.S .21rg in mine, so thats a lower H.P motor, and I had no problems at all. My friend bought it from me, and installed a O.S .30, and it ended up tearing up a couple tranny gears after about 3 months!

Personally, i'd go with an O.S 18tz, and that should be all the "dependable" H.P you'll ever need! O.S engines purr like a Kitten! ;)

[Hugh]

Still waiting to hear the ghetto oven trick.

[psiturbo]

psiturbo-I've read about the oven trick before. could you please refresh my memory and explain it? I've got a couple of "junk" engines I'd like to try it out on.



Please, I know this is a very very cheap fix, but when done right it works wonders.


http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/Wasp/Picturedec232006003.jpg

Use a .50 cent clamp to do the pinching technique.
When it is cold place the piston on the sleeve and make it tight that it can only go half way. This is like your guiding point to start with.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/Wasp/Picturedec232006002.jpg

If you see in the inside of the sleeve a shinny uneven surface can be noticed and this we will take care once we use the dremmel a few steps ahead.


http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/Wasp/Picturedec232006004.jpg

Place the piston on the stove or an oven at 300 degrees. I prefer the stove, its quicker and more practical. Use your temp gun. Dont worry of overcooking it, these parts can take a punishment. Play with the piston once it is hot and will see it will go a little further because it is hot.
Note: The piston can get stuck because is cold and the sleeve is hot, just let it seat and remove it once hot.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/Wasp/Picturedec232006006.jpg

Leave only the sleeve and set the stove to Med high or High to kick the temps. I use a lid to keep the heat. The sleeve contrary to the piston does not retain heat as much which does make sense. Tighten it with a flat head screwdriver. Remember: I dont have to say this but in case, use gloves at all times, its super hot as you can see on the temp gun.

When the sleeve reaches like 300 or more and after pinching it a few times once hot, place the piston on the pan and heat it beside the sleeve for a minute or so then introduce it inside the sleeve one more time. The top of the piston should not go higher than the top edge opening of the exhaust port (top part if piston was standing upright like its suppose to). If you are following the picture then I meant the bottom edge.

You need that the top of the piston makes it or else it will be catastrophic if it is too tight and gets stuck right at the edge. This is the tricky part.

>>> Imp: When you feel you got a tight fit, get the sleeve and drop it in cold water.

Note: Its better to start conservative and progress from there.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/Wasp/Picturedec232006.jpg
- A dremmel, polishing bit and Blue Magic. Once done with crimpping the sleeve now comes the fun part. Apply some paste on the inside of the sleeve to remove some of the old surface which contains scratches etc and to make it one even surface. You know what I mean, if you look on the inside of the sleeve it does not look as one even surface. Just spend a minute or so, not to much. Use the same technique for the outside surface of the piston.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/Wasp/Picturedec232006008.jpg

Here is a picture of how far can the piston go. It has to cover all the holes so it does not get stuck. Its suppose to feel tight, like a brand new piston and sleeve. As you can see it has the shinny surface on the top, you can get rid of it by using also like 1000 sand paper and WD40. Do smooth movements parallel with the surface of the sleeve, NEVER focing down on it, let the sandpaper glide.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/Wasp/Picturedec232006010.jpg

Here is the piston all scratched and in very bad shape.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/Wasp/Picturedec232006013.jpg

here is a closer look of the piston with some nasty finish.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/Wasp/Picturedec232006012.jpg

After applying some Blue Magic and the dremmel with the polishing brush. I know the brush looks rugged, but the paste really DOES magic.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/Wasp/Picturedec232006014.jpg

Final touches: Grab a steel wool of the finest grade possible at any hardware store, costs like 2 bucks a small bag. Once again, BM paste, this final step will make it shinny and smooth. Manually doing this step helps remove any imperfections still left on the piston. Note: If you want repeat this step on the inside of the sleeve.

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/psiturbo/Wasp/Picturedec232006015.jpg

Results: What can I say? after an hour or so of culinary work, some elbow grease and patience the results are clearly amazing.

Just like a brand new piston and sleeve. Assemble everything and follow the same break-in steps for a brand new engine, at least for the first 2 tanks.

Good luck

For this project I had to do the cooking part about 3 times until finally it was REAL tight. I also use a rachet with a 5/16 socket.

[FHHOBBIES]

Im sure this has been asked but I have an extra HS-5955TG servo, would this work well in the Revo to race with?

[balang_479]

yep, thats for sure

[ChuckDeez]

I love my revo! I love it more after I tightened the slipper clutch, and took off my rear bumper. less nitro mess!!

[ChuckDeez]

took a picture today since it was raining. what do you guys think?

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/Japayuki/PICT0127.jpg

[FHHOBBIES]

VERY nice!

[savagepicco26]

very nizzzzzz Chuck!

[gurugt]

Hey everyone, i just installed the foc in my new revo and i have a question. When i roll the car backwards it isnt silky quiet like when i roll it forward. The noise doesnt sound too terrible, just wondering if this is normal? thanks

[JoulesWinfield]

Hey everyone, i just installed the foc in my new revo and i have a question. When i roll the car backwards it isnt silky quiet like when i roll it forward. The noise doesnt sound too terrible, just wondering if this is normal? thanks
What kind of noise are you talking about. Is is a crunching, grinding screeching??

Have you ever checked out your diffs or tranny?

[pinolelst]

Hey everyone, i just installed the foc in my new revo and i have a question. When i roll the car backwards it isnt silky quiet like when i roll it forward. The noise doesnt sound too terrible, just wondering if this is normal? thanks
brake chatter ?? Try rolling it with the radio on and throttle pulled back a little to disengage the brakes

pinolelst

[badboy2]

hey guys whats the easiest way to take the whole rear part off the chassis?or better yet whats the easiest way to take off the engine mount?thanks a lot..

[FHHOBBIES]

Here is my Revo! My pics seem to be too large for here... http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=639615

[metalry101]

Hey everyone, i just installed the foc in my new revo and i have a question. When i roll the car backwards it isnt silky quiet like when i roll it forward. The noise doesnt sound too terrible, just wondering if this is normal? thanks
Yes, it's perfectly normal. When you roll the truck forward you're only spinning the driveshafts and one or two of the shafts in the tranny. When you roll the truck backwards, all of the gears engage, so you're hearing a few more gears. The two that make a detectable noise are the spur and clutchbell. Any forward only truck will do the same thing, it's perfectly normal, so don't worry man. :)

[metalry101]

Anyone know of a good place to get the Vantage 3.3 chassis? I really want one, but I'm trying to find it cheaper than $160. The cheapest I've found so far has been A Main Hobbies at 154.99 with free shipping. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[FHHOBBIES]

I was looking at the Vantage chassis as well for my 3.3. Is there extended version the same length as the stock 3.3 or is it extened even further?

[Hugh]

I was looking at the Vantage chassis as well for my 3.3. Is there extended version the same length as the stock 3.3 or is it extened even further?

Same length. The Vantage is extended rearward instead of forward like the Traxxas chassis. The Vantage moves the engine,tranny,battery,fuel tank,etc. more forward on the chassis providing a better center of gravity. I don't understand why Traxxas didn't do that,but they're the pro designers,not me. IMO,I would think it would be a much better handling truck.

[FHHOBBIES]

Great thanks, I didn't know if I was going to get it if it was only lighter but since it transfers the weight forward as well I think I will try it out!

[Hugh]

Using a chassis brace is mandatory,too. I've seen the chassis flex in the Vantage chassis cause spur gears to strip several times. Should be good to go after that.

[metalry101]

Using a chassis brace is mandatory,too. I've seen the chassis flex in the Vantage chassis cause spur gears to strip several times. Should be good to go after that.
Are you referring to the little piece of aluminum that bolts on next to the engine? The piece that comes standard on the 3.3?

[Hugh]

Are you referring to the little piece of aluminum that bolts on next to the engine? The piece that comes standard on the 3.3?

Yep. That's it.

[tagmann50]

Can somebody post a pic of the rear brake linkage for me? Thanks

[Adanmtxt1]

Man, no love for the highly-regarded Revo? Over spring break (for me, about 3 weeks ago) I put some XMods springs between the calipers to help eliminate pad drag on the rotor, and it roxxorz! Looks really awesome and works well.

As a Christmas present, my dad got me the High Performance disc from Tower, but they keep postponing the date when they say they'll get them in. First, late Feb, then early march, then late march, now mid April. Hopefully I will get it in by the time I come home -- mid May!!!

[crazy4wdracer]

ChuckDeez: VERY nice revo!

[MikeWz]

What pipes are you guys running in your revos? I had the vantage pipe in mine a couple months back when the 3.3 first came out and it was nice, just want to see what my options are.

[jandread]

What pipes are you guys running in your revos? I had the vantage pipe in mine a couple months back when the 3.3 first came out and it was nice, just want to see what my options are.

I run a THS Racing Pipe http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNVC1&P=SM Looks great, resists dirt and nitro, sound good and has great low-mid snap and oh yeah, wont break a header if it lands awkwardly :teacher:

[SerpentCT4S]

I run a THS Racing Pipe http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNVC1&P=SM Looks great, resists dirt and nitro, sound good and has great low-mid snap and oh yeah, wont break a header if it lands awkwardly :teacher:
Same here, only not the hard-coated one. Its a great pipe, never had any problems with it.

[MikeWz]

I wish they didn't have such a weird sized pipe for this truck. Being able to run a full size pipe would be a nice thing.

[Adanmtxt1]

That THS pipe is really nice. fyi, you can run a side pipe if you remove the electroics box on the left hand side. Thats how Steve Slayden rolls :D

[SerpentCT4S]

After doing research and trying it personally, side pipes are disgusting! Just my opinion on them....

[MikeWz]

Side pipes are standard on 99% of all other vehicles. It's really not any different. You get gunk on your a-arm and tire no matter which you run. You're crazy if you race with an exhaust deflector on, so that doesn't really work either. Even bashing it's kind of annoying.

THS pipes never did do much for me. Maybe I'll try killing that radio box and throwing on the hardcoated JP-3 pipe....or Run the TM928/2020 pipe combo. That'd be balistic

[minijosh]

Hey guys I just picked up a 2.5 Revo. It's rtr of course and I'm not having a good time with keeping it running. It won't start unless I plug the exhaust to get some flow from the fuel tank. Is this normal? This is my first nitro. Also after I started it and ran it for a minute or 2, the head seemed like it was smoking. I'm running Byron Race fuel at 16% nitro. Stock exhaust and stuff. No reverse. This was a used truck.

[Adanmtxt1]

Holy cow minijosh, you need to stop what you are doing. You may very well have completely cooked your 2.5R. Seriously, forcing fuel into the engine is very detrimental to the carb. You might need a new one.





Okay, now that I have your attention, you are simply priming the engine with fuel. The fuel needs to be pushed through the lines until it reaches the carburetor, then a tiny bit more to get flowing into the carb. You do not, however, want to flood it (excessive priming), as the engine will be difficult to start or may not start at all (remove glow plug and turn over engine a little to clear).

As for the smoking head, it depends on ambient humidity, temperature, pressure, and fuel. You want to make sure the engine is not running too lean. I would suggest re-breaking in the engine just in case the previous owner was not careful. So, revert to factory needle settings and run cautiously for a few tanks, then begin leaning it out for performance. Have fun!

[americano528]

I got a revo recently and have completed the break in. I am still running it a little rich for the first gallon of fuel though.

however, i'd like to start leaning it little by little because I am not even able to get wheelies going. is this just because it's not lean enough or are there other adjustments to be made?

[Adanmtxt1]

I got a revo recently and have completed the break in. I am still running it a little rich for the first gallon of fuel though.

however, i'd like to start leaning it little by little because I am not even able to get wheelies going. is this just because it's not lean enough or are there other adjustments to be made?

Lol, don't worry about wheelies. I had the exact same 'problem', in which the 2.5R would *barely* lift the front at all, and that was usually in a sharp turn. After I installed the .18TM, I thought "I wonder how loose Traxxas sets the slipper clutch from the factory?". It turns out the factory setting is loose enough to slip BY HAND :eek:. Needless to say, the slipper was slipping a lot with the 2.5R, and a TON with the .18TM. I tightend it up a little, and it is nearly uncontrollable, non-stop wheelie action. I need to loosen it up more now.

So, just tighten it maybe 1/4 turn (clockwise) and see how it runs, and if it needs further adjustment, well.... adjust away :D Have fun with your newly invigorated Revo!

[MikeWz]

The problem I had when I had my 3.3 was the clutch itself. The shoes were coming in way too early and would bog the engine a bit. If you listen you should probably be able to hear it, or look for the smoke if you cant hear it. I just shaved off a bit from the inside of the shoes (the inner circle of the shoes) on the side facing the engine. Just take an ex-acto knife or a fine grinding bit in a dremel and take a little bit off. Not too much as you can always take a little more off if needed, but you can't take anymore off.

Though I'd probably suggest checking adanm's suggestion first, because it could be the slipper.

[SerpentCT4S]

I am going to be switching to a single steering servo set up.

Here is what I'll be getting:
Hitec 985mg servo: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMUS4&P=ML
ProLine alum. steering arm: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=6037-00&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go
Heavy duty spring: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGE0&P=M

How does this sound?

[juntom10]

I am going to be switching to a single steering servo set up.

Here is what I'll be getting:
Hitec 985mg servo: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMUS4&P=ML
ProLine alum. steering arm: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=6037-00&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go
Heavy duty spring: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGE0&P=M

How does this sound?
i have 965mg for my xxx t mf2..

it is so nice...really nice..

you can't go wrong with that(985mg is higher torque version of 965..(965is faster))

i will get 985mg for my pede :D

[Adanmtxt1]

Lol, SerpentCT4S, you will see a great increase in steering precision with that arrangement. Aside from the servo (the 985 is a great servo here), the stiffer spring will make the biggest difference. If you haven't already, and depending on how much you want to mod, you can perform the "Slayden Steering Mods" to get a little extra travel, and then you will be in great shape for the track.

I don't think you'll break that Proline steering arm, either :p.

[Quinton]

I have recently acquired a nice, used Revo. Is there anything I need to do to it to prevent future problems? It's pretty much new and stock. Anything to look out for?
Thanks!

[Domindart]

Just bashing?? Nothing to worry about, just have fun!

[Domindart]

the stiffer spring will make the biggest difference.
do u really need a stiffer spring w/ the 985???? :confused:

[RD Racing]

Dont use the stiffer servo saver spring, it is too much for the servo, any servo.

[badboy2]

any suggestions on what other gas tank i can put on my revo?will the hellfire gas tank fit without mods or u need some parts to put it in?

[GTX]

Get a MBX5 tank and Rx/fuel mount from Tekno. You can get them both on their website.

[Figit090]

I have a question for this thread... I havent been into RC for quite a while and i'm not sure if i should put more money into my t-maxx and make it completely bulletproof with a larger engine (has a 2.5, not R), or if i should but a new R/C. the reason this came up was I recently found a Revo for sale for 200 dollars with only a few hours on it. looks pretty good too...but i'm worried that it will just be another money pit. is it more durable than the t-maxx or will i run into more problems with plastic parts and common vulnerabilities like the t-maxx's broken bulkheads, shock caps..etc... also, how's the engine? for me, the trx2.5 was a tuning nightmare and it still bugs me

i vaguely remember the revo keeping up with big block trucks, what can it keep up with today? i want to be able to hit the new local track and they dont have a small block class yet because of low attendance numbers...

here's a pic. 200 dollars seems reasonable but it could be 200 towards something with more oompf...maybe i should just spend it on something i know i'd like? i love how fast buggies and truggies are...and they're already equipped with big-blocks....

here's some pics

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g252/rcfreak090/revo3.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g252/rcfreak090/revo2.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g252/rcfreak090/revo1.jpg

[awnelson]

If you don't buy it, let me know or have the seller contact me. I would take it off his hands for that price. As far as money pit, anything can become one if you have to keep changing things. If you run it the way it is and make changes that others know work, it shouldn't be too bad a truck for the money. The tranny is better than the Maxx version, the chassis works well stock and the suspension is much better than average. Good luck with your decision.

[Figit090]

how's the drivetrain hold up to big-blocks?

[PCC]

If you get the BB conversion kit you should be fine. My brother ran a ported RB Concepts C5 in his and it would pop wheelies shifting into second gear. It would pop wheelies with anything more than 1/4 throttle. It would pop wheelies in second gear if you slammed the throttle wide open (at about 25MPH!). All this in a stock Revo with just the BB conversion kit installed.

The T-Maxx will break if you look at it wrong (at least mine was) and the Revo is just tough as nails. I stopped running mine because I broke the engine mount. Mind you, this is the first thing I broke on mine and it resulted from numerous landings upside-down right on the engine (the head is dented up really bad as a result). My old T would break from getting just 15" of air while we were getting over 10 feet of air and doing summersaults with our trucks over and over and over again until something finally broke.

[redhatman]

Post classifieds in the for sale section please, thank you.

[Figit090]

so i don't have to worry too much about broken stuff eh?

if i dropped in a big-block could it contend with the big-block truggies that are out nowdays? or even win against them? i'm not familiar enough to say for myself...

oh and i forgot to ask, how's the stock 2.5r engine? any tuning issues? overheating issues? I know the original 2.5 like in my t-maxx was REALLY hard to tune and REALLY touchy...is the R the same way or is it a nice engine that's easier to tune and will run for hours with no throttle blipping?

[PCC]

I wouldn't worry about breaking anything on a BB Revo.

I don't know how it would run against a truggy as there are a lot of variables there. Truggies have lower centers of gravity, typically, but they don't have the suspension that a Revo has.

As for your question about the Traxxas 2.5 and 2.5R, that was the first thing I pulled out of mine and sold it on eBay a long time ago.

[Figit090]

hmm...yeah you see that's the main issue. if it were a reliable engine i didn't have to worry about upgrading for some time i'd just buy the thing, but the reality is i might end up with another dud-feeling engine like the trx2.5

[PCC]

Okay, the last time I ran my Revo was about two years ago. The last time I ran it the engine mount broke when I landed it upside-down. I charged up the receiver pack and repaired the broken engine mount (it's the rear cantilevered part) then decided to see if it would fire up. It started right up without any cleaning whatsoever and I ran it in front of the house for a full tank. With both needles backed out a quarter turn the Revo was popping wheelies up and down the street. Temp? Topped out at about 205 degrees F. I'm going to be running this truck this weekend at the local track as I get back into the hobby. Oh, yeah, it's a ported OFNA Hyper 8-port.

[Figit090]

lucky.

[Figit090]

wow...ok...i have another question for you guys.

I talked to the owner of the revo i posted about earlier (with pics, please see the previous page of this thread)

he said he would let it go for 160 dollars, last he knew it was in running condition but right now it won't start after being stored for about a year or so. all its missing is the charger for the RX pack which i can remedy with my Super Brain 959.

so what do you think now? should i go for it not knowing the condition of the engine? i already have a t-maxx that i'm getting fed up with, and i think this truck might help me back into the hobby while i build up my t-maxx. i'm open to more advice :)

i'm just so leery about the costlyness of a bad decision. i believe my t-maxx was not the best decision i dont want to do it again.

does the old revo compare at all to the new one? i think i might not like having the old version since its not as strong or as long as the new one...i dunno. this stinks.

[Hotti]

Hi ya mates! :wave:

Does anyone know nothing about new o.s. .21TM?Does it fit directly to revo 3.3,or does it need bb kit?I have HEARD that it has same size crankcase than revo's stock engine but is this true?

[Z-tuner]

mmmm, it seems we have some Revo experts over here, I have a question for you. If you press the chassis up to the floor and measure the distance from floor to the lowest point of the engine, this car enters the Roar rule that says one inch and a half is the minimum to be an MT? I have this discussion with a buddy as warhead do not acomplish this rule for sure.

[Adanmtxt1]

omfg, I have no idea, but you can bet your butt that it's a monster truck. I don't read the rules, as I just bash, but it is certainly a monster.

[Z-tuner]

omfg, I have no idea, but you can bet your butt that it's a monster truck. I don't read the rules, as I just bash, but it is certainly a monster.

no discussion that Revo and Warhead are MT's for me, the argument point comes with the Roar rules, our country rules are similar but without the engine minimum eight, some people is claiming to add this point and I don't agree, as I'm sure warhead doesn't acomplish it and probably Revo also do not get the minimum size, so it's silly for me to add a new rule as many racers have Revos and we are not enough people to make different class races as you have.

[T-Maxxahol]

anyone know how to fit a 18tz pilot shaft.. into a Revo??

[ragamuffin]

anyone know how to fit a 18tz pilot shaft.. into a Revo??

Swap out the crank for one from a TM .18. It's a direct fit. You can use the stock EZ-Start2/pullstart or a Roto-Start.

[EZM]

If you were to take out the revos engine with the engine mount and set it on a flat surface,what would be the degrees of tilt of the engine?

[7urb0_c471]

It depends on the gearing, but figure between 10 and 25 degrees.

[badboy2]

which 18p\s engine fits the revo without mods?

[7urb0_c471]

This is the one you want. It fits the 2.5, 2.5R, and 3.3, but also works perfectly on the .18TM; it's the pull starter I run. :)

I actually just came back in from a run. I ran it a little rich, but the new M2C 2-shoe aluminum clutch grabs so well that it still pulled wheelies :D. I ran it cool and rich just to get it going again, and everything worked perfectly. OS engines (my .12CV-Rx and .18TM) are some of the most reliable I have ever seen.

[badboy2]

so the 18tm with pullstart is direct fit?what gears are u using?

[7urb0_c471]

Use which ever gears you feel best suit the track on which you run, because there is no difference in spacing when shifting to the TM. I think I'm running 16/38 gearing right now, which takes advantage of the extra torque from the .18TM. I could still gear up though, and I am just bashing.

If you switch, I would recommend going with a new pipe as well to fully take advantage of the extra power. I have heard JP pipes and the Resonator pipe both run very well with both the 2.5R, the 3.3, and the .18TM. I personally run the stock pipe, not drilled, because I have wanted to spend mah monies on other cars :) :(. It runs very well regardless.

[1stGenCRXer]

ROAR rules for production MT's were written after the introduction of the Revo, and written to specifically include the Revos and prevent a manufacturer from building a "Monster Truck" with a lower engine placement.

IIRC, the bottom of the engine on my Revo is around 1.6" up with the skid plates resting on a flat surface. If you shave the skid plates like guys tried to do a few years ago, you could actually trim enough material from the bottom of the Revo to make it illegal by ROAR production MT rules.

Also, the OS 21TM is a small block, just like the TRX3.3, so it bolts right in, no issue.

[badboy2]

hey guys does anyone here have a pic of a revo with rb tm323 engine?i just got this engine and i wanna see how u guys installed it?can u pls post some pix?like pix from linkages to mounts something in detail ..thanks guys

[turk182]

here is my revo with a new set of tires and new PE body. ahs a OS 18tm engine.